General overview of the sharp end of the boat where all the major bits of string emanate and

then
head into the centre of the boat. Note the red line on the foredeck is the jenny halyard purchase
system
Detail of the bush for the trapeze wire and the use of a wide mouth trapeze ring.

Clear picture of the gunnel mounted shroud positions and also of the sheave boxes that take the
adjustable shrouds into the boat.

Position of the spinnaker twinner bushes shown. Note the use of the stainless-steel ring through
which the spinnaker sheet is lead – it will damage the foredeck but won’t break

Measurements:

Trapeze wires: 4010mm from the handle – not shown – to the “T” terminal that interlocks with the
mast. Looks like they are of 3mm dyneema

Shroud anchorages: from the corner of the transom to the top of the “U” bolt 2850mm

Sheave box: Centre of the sheave box is 250mm from the top of the shroud “U” bolt. The
preference here is for “bearinged” holt or Selden sheaves

Twinner bush: centre of bush is 410mm from the top of the shroud U bolt. Simple plastic bush (with
screws) but has S/S inner lining

Lengths:

Shrouds: 4.6m long of 3mm wire measured from the terminal at the top to where the wire enters
the terminal at the bottom.

This boat uses a 2:1 purchase on the shrouds before it goes into the boat. Increasing it to 3:1 will
reduce the tension placed on the C/B case
Forestay: approx. 5.24m. this can be wire although 5mm dyneema might be OK. The pull through
for the halyard is 9.m of cheap 3 strand or similar. Note the jenny halyard is double the length that
you think due to the 2:1 purchase on the Jenny (HAS ANY ONE GOT A PICTURE)

The 6 bushes you can see in the picture above are for the following controls:

Cunningham

Outhaul (to thwart)

Kicker (to mainsheet 2 in 1 block – see later)

Jenny halyard – back to purchase to maintain tension as you adjust the rake

[can Chris add what they all are – I have missed two]

The spinnaker halyard is the red rope that goes round the small harken cheek block and then goes
through the in line block on the centre casing.

The blue rope that goes through the other in line block on the starboard side is the spinnaker pole
down haul – (see picture below) - it is run up to the bow of the boat. It is adjusted via a cleat on the
side of the C/B case. Note you can see the shock cord for the trapeze wires in this picture.
The red line coming into the side of the C/B case is the starboard spinnaker twining line

The black blocks are turning blocks for the starboard side controls that pass through the bushes

The purchase on the side of the C/B case is the starboard shroud. Notice how the last lead goes
through the C/B case to the port side where it meets the port side equivalent.

The picture below shows the port side. You can clearly see the purchase system for the port shroud
and the starboard shroud coming through the C/B case. The C/B has been stiffened here.

Picture clearly shows the C/B down control line

Detailed picture of the shroud purchase etc (starboard side)
Black rope exiting the mast is the main halyard

Yellow rope going round the cheek block is the strut down haul

Out of view is the spinnaker pole up

The sharp end of the single spinnaker pole launching system

Spinnaker halyard cleat – not a great success – any other versions around?
Picture of the cockpit

Cleats on t of C/B with blue tops are the twinner cleats

Yellow rope on side of case is the strut down cleat – one the other side is for the pole

You can just see the kicker coming up of the floor and going through the small harken in-line block
and from there into the harken mainsheet / kicker block and cleat

Yellow rope behind the mainsheet cleat is pole up

Red rope behind that is the Spinnaker halyard disappearing up to the spinnaker chute
The In Line blocks at the front of the case.
More detail of the twinners, pole up and strut up and clearer picture of the kicker line heading into
the C/B case

The markings on the side of the case are for the rig adjustment system/ You can see a block resting
at the 12 marker - this is the shroud adjustment
Shroud adjustment is taken to the back where it is the blue line above.

The red line is the jenny halyard adjustment (some boats have a rough and fine adjustment on the
jenny halyard – here there is only 1.
Limited kit up the sharp end. Note the new boats don’t have a spinnaker sock – on an old boat given
the state of the fibre glass, a sock will prevent a ripped spinnaker
Measurements:

Spinnaker sheet 17.6 meters – 6mm dyneema

Taper 4.3m from the end – attached to the kite with bobbles.
Uses SS rings on twinners but will change to plastic as
they are damaging the foredeck
Jenny sheets 2 x 4m x 8mm (dyneema). The sheets are not
continuous
mainsheet 7.8m of 8mm dyneema – need it to be able to put in
place the twin tails.
Each twin tail is 800mm excluding the length needed to
attach them to the mainsheet its left. Allow extra for the
fixing to the hull each side. Check when drill that the
hull does not leak – same for spinnaker blocks.
The twin tail is made from 2/3mm dyneema.
shrouds 4.6m of 3mm wire. This is from ex T terminal to
terminal at the bottom. Use wire and 2:1 before it enters
the hull. Could also try 5mm D12 and go with 3:1 to
keep the tension down on the C/B case. (need safety line
if go this route in case the dyneema breaks
forestay Approx. measurement would be 4770mm plus 150mm
plus 320mm - approx. 5240mm. Use wire – or 5mm
dyneema depending on Stretch. Pull through is 9.5m of
3 strand
Trapeze wires 4010mm from handle to T terminal. Looks like made
from 3mm dyneema.
Main halyard I don’t have a length – 2x mast plus a bit?
Spinnaker halyard 12.31m 4mm dyneema
Transom spinnaker blocks 200mm from transom
Side spinnaker blocks 1m from transom
4 in-line blocks at front of Four in-line Holt blocks at front of the case for the strut,
C.B case pole up, pole down and the spinnaker halyard. Pole up
and spinnaker halyard exited mast via slots and then
were turned around cheek blocks – Harken 16mm
attached to the mast. Spinnaker on starboard, pole up on
port, strut down on port and pole down on Starboard.
Strut and pole down via 2x16mm blocks on the front
tank.
Main halyard Exited out of a slot thru a clam cleat (like an RS800) and
then through a small 16mm harken block. Main halyard
is 4mm dyneema
Diagonal from corner of 2860mm
transom to end of CB case
slot
Front of CB case slot to 341mm
back of mast is
Corner of transom to top 2850mm
of shroud U bolt
Transom to centre of CB 2713mm
bolt
 C/B note: The centre board when at 90 degrees should be no more
than 10mm from the end of the CB slot
Need to put a protector Can remove but better to put the spinnaker above the old
plate on the mast where fitting if do so – leave sensible gap and fill holes with
the spiro goes. Spiro can Monel rivets
be fitted under the existing
fitting – suggest take
existing fitting off and
then put in the hard rivets.
– talk to Selden.
Bottom of the strut on the
mast is 160mm above
deck level.
Furthest forward edge of
the strut deck plate is
370mm from the front of
the mast gate. Mast gate
has been packed and there
is a protector on the mast
Boom is 1.6m to the start Useful measure if you need to adjust a boom you have
of the main sheet slot and bought from another class
then is 2.9m long. All
form the gooseneck end

Other points.

Pole up and down us the through deck holt fairleads and cleats and are either side of the
mainsheet.

Strut down is 3mm dyneema. 4/6:1 purchase in front of the mast back to the back of the boat
– 26mm harken is bolted thru the front tank for this take off

Trap bungee goes up to the bow and then back.

Spinnaker down haul is bungeed up to front and then rope see picture. 16mm block as with
strut but on starboard side

He uses harken sheave boxes save for the in lines which are all plastic holt.

The following controls down through bushes at the front of the CB case – Cunningham,
outhaul, (to thwart) kicker to main block, and forestay back to final cleat. Forestay looks like
it is on 12:1 with no rough adjustment. With 4:1 on exit of the mast a 6:1 system down the
side of the C/B case would give 24:1. Do you need the rough and fine adjustment?