Construccion Wherry PDF

Expedition Wherry, ﬁrst build in the UK. / Build... https://forum.fyneboatkits.co.uk/viewtopic.php?...
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» Expedition Wherry, first build in the UK.
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1 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 8 Jun 2013 10:38 pm #1
Member I have started another boat from Fyne Boat Kits, this one
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 is a single seat, decked wherry, the guys call it an
Posts: 92 Expedition Wherry. It is just under 18.5ft long, takes a
drop in rowing unit, is decked at the front and back, both
decks contain hatches for stowage of equipment. The
main features for me are its reported sea worthiness, and
its lightness. I have built a 21ft seagoing row boat a
couple of years ago that we have used for expeditions in
Scotland. I wanted to supplement this with a single
seated boat for my solo west coast of Scotland
expeditions. I have only just started the project and aim
to keep you posted of the stages.
Ultimately I have to have it completed and well tested on

the water before October this year as the first expedition
is planned. I have deliberately started the build later on
into the year to make the best use of the temperatures
and hopefully less humid conditions both of which caused
me some problems on my last build. I aim to also add a
cedar strip deck to set the boat off. Keep an eye on the
forum as I add pictures and descriptions of the progress.
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2 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 9 Jun 2013 9:31 pm #2
Member As with all of Fyne boat kits, it was well protected and
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 wrapped in cardboard. Some of the components needed
Posts: 92 breaking out of the boards, they were held in place with
very small tabs. It is important to cut them out with a
Stanley knife rather than snapping them out. Snapping
them out could result in damaging the parts as the ply
wood delaminates.
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beaker 10 Jun 2013 8:43 pm #3
Member Oooh, the anticipation when you first unwrap, with the
Registered: 9 Oct 2011 promise of adventures to come. I look forward to seeing
Posts: 81 photos of those shapes on a white beach in the Western
Isles.
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Paul 11 Jun 2013 12:15 pm #4
Employee The boat is looking good but I advise you to remove the
sticky labels as soon as they are redundant to avoid a
stain or change in wood colour.
From: Gatebeck Cumbria See this link: Identification Labels

Registered: 4 Aug 2011
Posts: 112
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3 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 18 Jun 2013 8:17 pm #5
Member The fillets once dry need to be sanded down to prep

Registered: 16 Jun 2011 them ready for the next application of glass and resin. I
Posts: 92 need to apply glass between each of the for the entire
length of the boat. A really good cheap tool I found for
corner and tricky sanding situations is this (see below). It
has a swivel handle and is good to hold.
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4 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 18 Jun 2013 8:30 pm #6
Member After 24 hours I set off applying resin to the

Registered: 16 Jun 2011 compartments. I used about 2-3 pumps each side of
Posts: 92 each bulkhead, I had the resin nice and warm and low
viscosity. I used a rubber tipped squeeze and set off on
the bow section and it turned out to be as miserable a job
as I thought it would be, don’t think I will be winning any
prizes for that bit. For all compartments I poured the
resin in the centre and worked to the sheer. The
remaining compartments went well and to a large extent
quite neat. I took more care on the bits that will be
visible, here are a few photos of the finished, but not dry
job. I will have a bit of sanding to do on the glass that
protrudes up the side bulkheads.
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5 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 21 Jun 2013 10:28 pm #7
Member I don't enjoy sanding and I always like to encourage

Registered: 16 Jun 2011 others to help out !. We did all of the sanding by hand
Posts: 92 and took a bit of time over it, it always looks terrible when
it is done, yet once that first coat of resin goes on.....you
sigh relief as it comes up great. The resin was slightly
thickened to fill the weave. on the subsequent coats I will
only use thickened resin on the central bulkhead that is
visible, the rest will get just a good lash of the standard
resin mix unthickened. Here are some shots of the
finished product after coat number 1. It is my intention to
put at least one more coat on everything except the
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6 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 26 Jun 2013 9:59 pm #8
Member When the second internal coat was touch dry, I was able
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 to flip the boat over and start preparing the hull, I made a
Posts: 92 relatively runny mix of silica and wood flour and set about
filling in the holes and the gaps joints of the strakes. I
started with a 50ml injection but gave up as it took too
long and ended up setting and wasting half of it before it
could get it onto the boat. Plan B was to revert to a good
old small steel scraper. It was a great tool, firm enough
to push the resin into the gaps/holes and sharp enough
to scrape any residue off completely. I was very careful
in removing all excess resin so the subsequent sanding
would be minimal, and it was successful. Finally I
checked and double-checked there was no excess or any
runs of resin.
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7 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 30 Jun 2013 10:15 pm #9
Member This is a shot with both sides of the boat glassed, as you
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 can see I have sanded it down with 120 grit. You can
Posts: 92 clearly see the double skin overhangs at the end of the
first strakes I flipped the boat over and added the last
coat of slightly thickened resin to the inside sections to fill
the weave. I only used a squeeze and did not use the
roller, the finish was much better and I was able to keep
the resin to a minimum. This was the final filler coat on
the inside. I flipped the boat over again ready for fitting
the skeg.
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8 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 2 Jul 2013 9:45 pm #10
Member Last night I beefed up the fillet on the skeg, it was a bit of
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 a rough job as I made the mix a bit too thick and it didn’t
Posts: 92 run smooth when I applied it, there will be a bit of rework
to do when it is dry.
Tonight I sanded it reasonably smooth (smooth enough)

and applied a strip of glass to either side of the skeg.
The glass just came to the top of the skeg but the angle
was too steep to bend it over the top, so I just let it stand
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9 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 6 Jul 2013 7:28 pm #11
Member Tonight I will be doing some little jobs on the side. I

Registered: 16 Jun 2011 wanted a hole through the bow of the boat to attach a
Posts: 92 hoop of rope. Fyne boats suggested I build a little profiled
dam that I could fit in the bow of the boat and backfill the
gap with resin/silica mix. I did this. The dam was made
of card and I wrapped it in tape to make sure the resin
didn’t stick to it. I added about three pumps of material.
It worked well and because of the mass getting hot as it
cured, it cured quite quickly. I then carefully drilled a
series of drain holes in each of the bulkhead to take a
watertight bung.
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10 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 9 Jul 2013 10:03 pm #12
Member I learned a lot doing the fill coats. The success or failure
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 is all down to minimising the amount of resin you apply. I
Posts: 92 found too much just results in orange peel effect. As
mentioned earlier I used the squeegee and made sure all
of the resin on each application was scraped down as far
as I could. The advice from fyne boats was to add 2 or 3
tea spoons of silica to the mix, this makes it almost like a
mustard consistency. Apparently the silica powder/resin
mix rolls very well and will spread a long way without any
problem. This turned out to be the case and I was able
to cover the entire boat with 3 pumps of material. The
squeegee instantly turned the sanded surface into a very
good finish with only a couple of passes. I sanded in
between the two coats and once I applied the last coat I
finished the surface off with a dry sponge roller. This
converted the very smooth surface to a slightly mat
surface . I used the roller to drive out the very very small
lines you get by using a squeegee. The final finish was
good and it will only take the lightest sanding down
before I apply the undercoat paint at a later date.
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11 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 14 Jul 2013 9:40 pm #13
Member The glass was rough cut to size and the middle cut out to
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 reduce weight during the application of resin. applying
Posts: 92 the resin was a bit tricky a the whole thing was very
flimsy and driving the resin into the glass resulted in the
wood flexing all over the place as it was only 3mm thick.
Once applied and left to dry I had a concern that it would
dry with the inverse rocker of the boat and would not flex
enough when it was turned over and stuck down to the
sheer clamps. This turned out not to be a problem, once
it was dry it was still very flexible and would mould to the
shape of the bulkheads and sheer line.
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12 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 22 Jul 2013 11:06 pm #14
Member I have been off air for the last few days, here are some of
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 my recent photos. The skin deck is on and I have now
Posts: 92 been preparing the cedar strips. I bought some cedar
boards from fyne. I planed them down and put a straight
edge on them. I then run them through my band saw and
cut 4mm strips. I tried to put them through my planer to
bring them down to 3mm strips with a smooth face on
one side only. Even with a sole plate fitted to the planer
to lift the strips closer to the cutter block, the machine
wasn’t that keen on cutting at 3mm. I got some variable
results so decided to stop. I would fasten them to the
boat at this thickness and give them a heavy sand down
with the orbital sander.
When I built my last boat, one of the things I liked most

about its appearance was the block effect gunnels, these
set the boat off. below is a photo of the gunnel on my last
boat. The design of the wherry doesn’t lend itself to
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13 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 3 Aug 2013 9:03 pm #15
Member Prior to adding the strips to the deck I needed to taper

Registered: 16 Jun 2011 them, this was done with a wonderful £2.00 block plane,
Posts: 92 it worked a treat. I took care to make sure everything
was symmetrical. I then pre drilled some holes and
attached the strips to the edge of the boat. My method
was to use 2mm serrated nails, and the drill size was
1.5mm. The idea was to knock the nails in after the
adhesive resin had been applied. As the nails push in,
the strip will be forced onto the resined under deck (the
force comes from the serrations, and the serrations also
prevent the nails from popping out under the upward
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pam5 3 Aug 2013 9:09 pm #16
Member Completely nothing to do with my build, but it was a nice

Registered: 16 Jun 2011 photo I took the other day at Keswick. As a boat fiddler, it
Posts: 92 appealed to me, hope you like it.
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14 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 7 Aug 2013 9:24 pm #17
Member Sanding was quite a bit of work. It was all the more
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 difficult by the fact I had not planed the cedar strips, they
Posts: 92 were just relatively rough cut. I used an electric belt
sander for the rough bits then moved onto a random
orbital for the finishing off. I went down to 120 grit, the
end product looked great. Here are some photos. The
texture and colours of the cedar are wonderful.
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15 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 11 Aug 2013 8:04 pm #18
Member This is the full sheet of glass in place. Again I left it for 24
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 hours to settle before applying the resin. I was careful to
Posts: 92 keep the temperature of the resin pretty warm and the
whole thing was covered and complete in 1 hour.
Once dry 24 hours later, there was a quick sand down

and application of a second filler coat laced with silica
only. Here is a photo giving a sneak preview of what it all
looks like so far. As you can see I have left the strips
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16 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 16 Aug 2013 9:02 pm #19
Member Sorted out the coaming last night. I put it on the bench
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 and with support board and then routed the edges
Posts: 92 round. I added the tape around the perimeter and then
glued the thing to the deck. Once clamped, I added the
external fillet to finish it off.
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17 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 18 Aug 2013 7:58 pm #20
Member I took time to cut out a cardboard template for the hatch.
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 I made it 4mm smaller than edge on the sill. the idea
Posts: 92 was that once I trace around it and mark the size on the
boat and then cut on the outside of the line, it will be
absolute size. I taped the whole area off and marked the
shape using a center line on the deck and a centre line
on the cardboard template to align everything. I then
drilled a few chain holes with the same size drill as the
saw blade. I had some advice on cutting tools, some of
these were pad saw, one was a bonsi saw and my choice
was........ a good old jig saw with a fine hacksaw blade.
Before committing to the deck I traced the curve corner
on a bit of ply the same thickness as the deck and had a
go to see if the saw blade could get around it. It was fine
so I started on the deck. It was easier than I thought,
especially with my wife to hold the cable out of the way
so I just concentrated on cutting the line. You will see I
added a couple of little lift tags in the centre of the
hatches, these were grabbed just as I was about to
complete the cut, they prevented the deck dropping
inside and snapping off the last bit before it is cut
through.
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18 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 27 Aug 2013 11:00 pm #21
Member Hatches sills all sanded down, and they both look good,
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 there was a bit of fun and games getting the bolts out, the
Posts: 92 nylocks did their job and locked! so much for the PTFE
spray.
I wanted to get the interior hatches (hatch on the face of

the first and last bulkhead) fitted. I used a high modulus
sealer to seal onto the bulkhead. I also had to re-drill the
bung holes as they had got a bit of resin in and the bung
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19 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 4 Sep 2013 9:08 pm #22
Member I added in total 3 coats of ivory white gloss, I used the

Registered: 16 Jun 2011 same short hair roller again and it left a great finish. The
Posts: 92 end result was good and has added a new dimension to
the hull.
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20 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 8 Sep 2013 8:01 pm #23
Member Not had much time this weekend so didn’t get done as
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 much as I had planned. I trialed the rowing unit, it
Posts: 92 needed a slight lift to get the outriggers over the gunnels
(about 5mm). I made a couple of small platforms,
screwed them down and with the unit in place I drilled the
through and positioned them in place with a couple of
stainless bolts and wing nuts that can be tightened from
inside the hatches. I added the last coats of varnish. I
also made a small block to hold my compass, I will add a
Offline
Dinky Doris 13 Sep 2013 3:34 pm #24
Member Gorgeous deck and I think that the stern with the slightly
From: Wales random look is attractive – so much better than stripes.
Registered: 25 Aug 2011 Grading before starting is a good tip. You have inspired
Posts: 23 me.
I am looking forward to some pictures of it afloat.
DD
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21 of 22 11/28/17, 11:18 AM
pam5 14 Sep 2013 7:57 pm #25
Member All painting and varnish completed, hole drilled in the bow
Registered: 16 Jun 2011 for a rope. Today I spent time preparing an extension for
Posts: 92 my roof rack, I will put a couple of photos on when
completed. Hopefully at his point I will be able to
transport the boat and do the official launch. I have the
boat name and emblem to put on and the last two jobs
will be the rubber seals on the hatches and the hatch
toggles that I also made today.
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Expedition Wherry, ﬁrst build in the UK. / Build... https://forum.fyneboatkits.co.uk/viewtopic.php?...

A forum for discussing wooden boats and boat building

Fyne Boat Kits Index Search Login Register

You are not logged in. Topics: Active | Unanswered

Index » Build Progress Logs

pam5 8 Jun 2013 10:38 pm #1

Ultimately I have to have it completed and well tested on

pam5 9 Jun 2013 9:31 pm #2

beaker 10 Jun 2013 8:43 pm #3

Paul 11 Jun 2013 12:15 pm #4

From: Gatebeck Cumbria See this link: Identification Labels

pam5 18 Jun 2013 8:17 pm #5

Member The fillets once dry need to be sanded down to prep

pam5 18 Jun 2013 8:30 pm #6

Member After 24 hours I set off applying resin to the

pam5 21 Jun 2013 10:28 pm #7

Member I don't enjoy sanding and I always like to encourage

pam5 26 Jun 2013 9:59 pm #8

pam5 30 Jun 2013 10:15 pm #9

pam5 2 Jul 2013 9:45 pm #10

Tonight I sanded it reasonably smooth (smooth enough)

pam5 6 Jul 2013 7:28 pm #11

Member Tonight I will be doing some little jobs on the side. I

pam5 9 Jul 2013 10:03 pm #12

pam5 14 Jul 2013 9:40 pm #13

pam5 22 Jul 2013 11:06 pm #14

When I built my last boat, one of the things I liked most

pam5 3 Aug 2013 9:03 pm #15

Member Prior to adding the strips to the deck I needed to taper

pam5 3 Aug 2013 9:09 pm #16

Member Completely nothing to do with my build, but it was a nice

pam5 7 Aug 2013 9:24 pm #17

pam5 11 Aug 2013 8:04 pm #18

Once dry 24 hours later, there was a quick sand down

pam5 16 Aug 2013 9:02 pm #19

pam5 18 Aug 2013 7:58 pm #20

pam5 27 Aug 2013 11:00 pm #21

I wanted to get the interior hatches (hatch on the face of

pam5 4 Sep 2013 9:08 pm #22

Member I added in total 3 coats of ivory white gloss, I used the

pam5 8 Sep 2013 8:01 pm #23

Dinky Doris 13 Sep 2013 3:34 pm #24

I am looking forward to some pictures of it afloat.

pam5 14 Sep 2013 7:57 pm #25

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