The Complete Idiot 39 S Guide To Getting and Ownin PDF

Getting and
Owning a Cat
by Sheila Webster Boneham, Ph.D.
A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

Getting and
Owning a Cat
by Sheila Webster Boneham, Ph.D.
A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

For George, Annie the Cat, Teddy Tiger, Simon, Snoopy, Malcolm, Kitty, Mary, Merlin, and Leo
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Copyright © 2005 by Sheila Webster Boneham, Ph.D.

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ISBN: 1-4406-9071-5
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Contents at a Glance
Part 1: Cats 101 1
1 A Cat in the Family 3
Considering the pros and cons of owning a cat.
2 The Right Cat for You 11
Deciding what sort of cat is right for you.
Part 2: Here Kitty, Kitty: Where to Find Your Special Cat 23

3 Where the Cats Are 25
Finding a healthy, happy cat.
4 Welcome Home! 43
Settling your new cat into your home.
5 Understanding Your Cat 57
Learning about feline instincts and behavior.
6 Citizen Cat 69
Living with your cat and your community.
Part 3: The Care and Feeding of Felis catus 79

7 The Well-Groomed Feline 81
Grooming your cat for health and good looks.
8 Feeding Your Cat 95
Choosing good food for a long and healthy life.
9 What Every Cat Should Know 107
Teaching your cat basic household manners.
10 The Not-So-Well-Behaved Cat 119
Preventing and changing unwanted behaviors.
Part 4: Keeping Your Cat Healthy 133
11 Your Healthy Cat 135
Keeping your cat healthy with regular care.
12 Managing Health Problems 151
Managing chronic and acute illness.
13 In Case of Emergency 169
Responding to illness, injury, or disaster.
Part 5: More Ways to Enjoy Your Cat 185

14 Advanced Kitty Training 187
Teaching your cat more than basic manners.
15 Cats (and Cat Owners) on the Prowl 201
Traveling safely with your cat.
16 Competitive Cats 215
Competing for fun and glory.
Part 6: The Circle of Life 227

17 Feline Birds and Bees 229
Understanding the realities of having kittens.
18 Cats Grow Old, Too 243
Keeping your cat healthy and happy into old age.
19 Saying Farewell 257
Knowing when it’s time to let go and managing loss
and grief.
Appendix
Resources 267
Index 273
Contents
Part 1: Cats 101 1
1 A Cat in the Family 3
Cats and People Through Time 4
Cats, Kids, and Community 6
The Cost of Owning a Cat 7
A Lifetime of Love and Responsibility 8
2 The Right Cat for You 11
Purebreds and Domestics 12
What Is a Breed? 14
Do Purebreds Need Papers? 15
Individual Choices 17
Sleek or Fluffy 17
Blue Collar or Pink? 18
Kitten or Adult? 18
Other Traits to Consider 20
Two’s Company 20
What About Allergies? 21
Part 2: Here Kitty, Kitty: Where to Find Your Special Cat 23

3 Where the Cats Are 25
Choosing a Kitten 25
Choosing an Adult Cat 28
How Much Should You Pay? 30
Adopting a Homeless Cat 31
Shelters 31
Cat Rescue Programs 33
Private Adoptions 34
Strays 35
Feral Cats and Kittens 37
Buying a Purebred Kitten or Cat 37
vi The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Getting and Owning a Cat
Where Not to Buy a Cat 40

Pet Stores 40
Kitten Mills 41
4 Welcome Home! 43
Kitty-Proofing—for Adult Cats, Too 43
Shopping for Felix 46
Scheduling a Check-Up 48
What’s in a Name? 49
Welcoming Your New Feline Friend 50
Introductions All Around 51
Cat to Cat 51
Cat to Fido 53
Cat to Other Pets 54
Kittens Are Special 55
5 Understanding Your Cat 57
The Sensual Cat 57
Whiskers and the Sense of Touch 58
The Nose Knows 60
Taste 61
Feline Vision 61
Feline Hearing 62
Socialization: How Your Kitten Learns to Be a Cat 63
Distinctly Feline Behaviors 65
Purring 65
Sleeping 65
Is Your Cat a Catnip Junkie? 66
Climbing 67
6 Citizen Cat 69
Indoors or Out? 69
Your Cat and Your Neighbors 71
Cats and Wildlife 72
Legal Issues 73
Confinement Laws 73
Licensing 73
Number Limits 73
Contents vii
Lost and Found 74

What to Do If Kitty Goes Missing 75
Identification: Don’t Leave Home Without It 77
Part 3: The Care and Feeding of Felis catus 79

7 The Well-Groomed Feline 81
Caring for Your Cat’s Coat and Skin 82
Brushing and Combing 83
Can You Bathe a Cat? 84
Healthy Ears 87
Kitty Dental Hygiene 88
Brushing Felix’s Teeth 89
“Felix, the Dentist Will See You Now” 90
Kitty Claws 92
Declawing 92
Cat Pedicures 93
Claw Covers 94
8 Feeding Your Cat 95
Cats Are What They Eat 96
Commercial Cat Foods 98
Homemade and Raw Diets 101
Fat Cats: The Importance of Weight Control 103
Feeding on Schedule 105
9 What Every Cat Should Know 107
Why Train a Cat? 108
Basics of Positive Reinforcement 109
Training Basics 110
Litter Box Training 111
Types of Litter 112
Litter Box Cleanup 114
Scratching Etiquette 115
Crate Training Your Cat 117
viii The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Getting and Owning a Cat
10 The Not-So-Well-Behaved Cat 119

Preventing Unwanted Behaviors 120
Stress and Fear 120
Separation Anxiety 122
Correcting Other Common Behavioral Problems 124
Tinkling Outside the Box 124
Spraying 127
Biting and Scratching 128
Destructive Scratching 131
Part 4: Keeping Your Cat Healthy 133

11 Your Healthy Cat 135
Your Cat’s Veterinarian 135
Finding a Vet 136
Office Visits 137
Vaccinating Against Infectious Diseases 138
Core Vaccinations 139
Common Noncore Vaccinations 140
When to Vaccinate 141
Fleas, Mites, Ticks, and Other Pests 141
Fleas 142
Ticks 142
Ringworm 143
Mange 143
Intestinal Worms 144
Heartworm 145
Can You Catch Something from Your Cat? 146
Sex and the Companion Cat 148
12 Managing Health Problems 151
Recognizing Symptoms 152
Common Feline Diseases 152
Feline Infectious Peritonitis 153
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus 154
Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease 155
Feline Leukemia Virus 156
Upper Respiratory Disease 157
Contents ix
Other Health Problems 158

Cat Allergies 158
Anal Gland Problems 160
Constipation 160
Liver and Kidney Disease 160
Pancreatitis and Diabetes 161
Diarrhea 162
Epilepsy and Seizures 163
Lymphoma 164
Thyroid Problems 164
Vomiting 165
Medicating Your Cat (and Living to Tell About It) 166
13 In Case of Emergency 169
First-Aid Supplies 170
When You Need to Evacuate 171
Basic Feline First Aid 174
Bites and Scratches 175
Poisoning 176
Fractures 180
When to Call Your Veterinarian 181
Part 5: More Ways to Enjoy Your Cat 185

14 Advanced Kitty Training 187
Positive Reinforcement, Step by Step 187
Teaching Your Cat to Come When Called 191
Leash Training 193
Useful Commands and Parlor Tricks 194
Sit and Down 194
Targets, Touches, and Hand Tricks 195
Fetching and Other Fun 196
Therapy Cats 197
15 Cats (and Cat Owners) on the Prowl 201
Preparing to Travel 201
Automobile Safety 204
Cats and Public Transport 205
x The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Getting and Owning a Cat
Cats Without Borders: International Travel 207

Lodging for People and Cats 208
When Felix Can’t Go 209
Finding a Boarding Kennel 209
Finding an At-Home Cat-Sitter 211
Moving With Your Cat 212
16 Competitive Cats 215
Cat Shows! 215
The Who and Where of Cat Shows 216
Preparing to Show Your Cat 217
The Well-Appointed Show Cat 221
At the Show 223
Cat Show Etiquette 224
Over, Under, Around, and Through—Cat Agility! 225
Part 6: The Circle of Life 227

17 Feline Birds and Bees 229
The Sad Side of Breeding 232
What Will the Parents Give to the Kittens? 233
D-Day (Delivery Day) 234
Getting Organized 234
Labor and Birth 236
Kitten Development 238
Placing Kittens and Cats 241
18 Cats Grow Old, Too 243
Physical Changes in Your Aging Cat 243
Gastrointestinal Changes 244
Changes in Skin, Coat, and Claws 244
Arthritis and Muscular Problems 245
Heart, Lung, Kidney, Liver, and Glandular Changes 247
Hearing Loss 248
Eye and Vision Changes 249
Behavioral Changes in Your Aging Cat 249
Aggression 250
Loss of House Training 251
Foreword xi
Routine Health Care for Your Older Cat 252

Regular Grooming for the Senior Feline 254
Creature Comforts for the Older Cat 255
19 Saying Farewell 257
Quality of Life Over Length 258
Decisions You Need to Make 259
Dealing With Loss 263
Moving On 265
Appendix
Resources 267
Index 273
Foreword
by Carole Nelson Douglas
Cats have finally overtaken dogs as the country’s most popular com-
panion animal. And why not? These lovely and loving creatures are
compact, entertaining but contented roommates, and usually come
housebroken. Yet there’s so much to learn about them, and every cat
is an education, unique in its own way.
I’ve loved cats as far back as I can remember and have read and
written about cats for most of my life. My feline “co-author” for
21 novels is Midnight Louie, a black cat PI based on a real-life stray
with a staggering talent for survival, who was nonetheless headed for
destruction.
On the personal front, I’ve continually integrated adult strays
into a peaceful multi-cat household. Through my publisher-
sponsored Midnight Louie Adopt-a-Cat tours, I visited every region
of the country over 7 years, working with local shelters to place cats
in new homes through book signing events. When you see cage
after cage of beautiful discarded cats in animal shelters across the
country, you realize that your supposedly “superior” species indeed
includes many “idiots” when it comes to caring for and about our
so-called “pets.” An animal companion should be for life.
By now I’m considered a self-made cat expert of sorts. Yet it
took me a lifetime to unlearn all the ignorant notions about cats
I grew up hearing, to understand what they were telling me, and
how. Even born cat-lovers need to learn the proper care, feeding,
and loving of these graceful, clever, and enchanting creatures.
Luckily, Dr. Sheila Webster Boneham’s comprehensive guide
to every aspect of bringing a feline into your life and home will get
you and your cat off on the right foot for a mutually delightful life-
time together—or improve the lifestyle and interactions you share
with your cat now.
xiv The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Getting and Owning a Cat
Dr. Boneham walks the reader through the cat’s life cycle from
A to Z. This is an exhaustively detailed treatment of the subject,
awesomely organized. Yet the book is compulsively readable, divided
into easily digestible sections, with photographs and factual tidbits
sprinkled throughout like tasty kibble. You can dig as deep as you
like into a key topic like breeds and breeding, go directly to a
specific health question, or skim the whole book for a fascinating
kaleidoscope of information. Even a veteran “cat person” like me
was tagging page after page for reference.
If you’re new to the art and addiction of interacting with a cat,
you can use the book to avoid the misconceptions so many people
still have about companion animals. Some people describe cats as
“independent,” but of course they have been dependent on human
company and goodwill since they were domesticated thousands of
years ago.
Humans must earn the cat’s trust and love, and cats do love and
need people as much as we love and need them. Like every human
being, each kitten or cat is the result of both nature and nurture. It’s
vital that we understand them. And even more fun and rewarding
when we do.
Always writing with love on the nature of the cat, with wide-
ranging expertise on their needs, and with journalistic balance on
any contested issues, Dr. Boneham becomes a trusted, experienced
guide to all cat matters, great and small. She is the Dr. Spock for the
feline nation.
Carole Nelson Douglas

Newspaper reporter Carole Nelson Douglas saw an ad for a remark-
able stray cat named Midnight Louie in the classified section. She
wrote an article that gave him his own voice and found him a good
home in 1973. After Douglas left journalism to become a full-time
novelist, Louie soon resurfaced in fictional form. Their partnership
Foreword xv
has produced mystery novels and short stories that have won Cat
Writers Association and other writing awards. Louie’s latest novel is
Cat in a Hot Pink Pursuit. Douglas lives in Fort Worth, Texas, with
her husband Sam, six adopted cats, and a stray Chow-mix dog who
has found her inner feline.
Introduction
Over the past 20 years, I’ve spent many hours talking with people
about cats, and it seems that the same topics and questions come up
over and over again:
˙ What kind of cat will fit into my household?
˙ Should I consider getting a purebred?
˙ Which is a better pet, male or female?
˙ Where should I get my cat?
Sometimes the talk centers on feline health:

˙ How can I keep my cat healthy?
˙ How can I best manage my cat’s chronic illness?
˙ What should I do if my cat is injured?
˙ What sort of food and exercise does my cat need to stay
healthy and fit?
Training and behavior questions are common, too:

˙ Can I really train my cat?
˙ How do I teach my cat to behave with my other pets and kids?
˙ Why does my cat do things I don’t like, and how can I make
her stop?
˙ Is there anything my cat and I can do together to have more
fun?
xviii The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Getting and Owning a Cat
Kittenhood and the prime years give way to old age in the flick
of a whisker, and people talk often about their aging cats, too:
˙ What special care does my cat need as he grows old?
˙ How will my cat change with age?
˙ Should I get another kitten or cat before my old cat dies?
˙ How will I know when it’s time to say farewell?
I’ve wrestled with most of these questions myself over the years.
Should we take home the terrific yellow tabby who was dumped at
the vet’s office? (Yes, we did—you’ll see Leo in this book.) I’ve had
to learn how to redirect behaviors in a few cats over the years, and
to understand why Kitty was a bit neurotic (she was taken from her
mama much too young) and why Malcolm suddenly stopped using
the litter box (a bout with tummy distress made him afraid of the
box in its usual location—an easy fix). As my cats have aged or been
sick or hurt, I’ve had to learn how to make them better or more
comfortable. Hardest of all, I’ve had to search my soul to decide
when it’s time to let them go.
My many conversations with people at shelters, in informal
settings, and on the Internet inspired me to write this book. I’ve
covered a lot of information, some of it very basic, some of it more
complex and advanced. I’ve tried to make this a book that I would
want on my own bookshelf, and I hope you’ll want it on yours as
a guide and a reference for years to come. May it help you find the
cat of your dreams and live with him happily.
What’s in This Book

There’s information in this book for the first-time cat owner as well
as for the more experienced cat person. If you’ve had cats for years,
you might want to skip over some of the more basic points—or not!
When it comes to cats, I find that there’s always something new to
learn or think about, even if it’s just a new angle on an old topic.
Introduction xix
I’ve divided the book into six parts:

Part 1, “Cats 101,” begins with the ins and outs of responsible
cat ownership. Then it guides you through many of the choices
you’ll need to make before you get your cat.
In Part 2, “Here Kitty, Kitty: Where to Find Your Special
Cat,” you’ll learn about good and the bad places to get a cat and
about how to adopt a cat who needs a home. You’ll learn how to
prepare to welcome your new kitten or cat and how to understand
typical feline behavior. You’ll also consider your obligations as a cat
owner in a community of other animals and people.
Part 3, “The Care and Feeding of Felis catus,” focuses on
grooming, feline nutrition, basic training, and solutions to common
behavior problems.
Part 4, “Keeping Your Cat Healthy,” is about what you can
do to help your cat live a long, healthy life and, when necessary,
how to manage common feline health problems and emergencies.
Part 5, “More Ways to Enjoy Your Cat,” offers fun ways to
play with and enjoy your cat. It explains how you can use positive
motivation to teach him all sorts of things, from simple parlor tricks
and walking on a leash to “show-cat” behavior to more complex
skills, including cat agility and work in animal assisted activities and
therapy.
Part 6, “The Circle of Life,” focuses on the feline life cycle,
from breeding and raising healthy, happy kittens through the aging
process and the final days of your cat’s life.
Throughout the book you’ll find little boxes with additional
important information:
xx The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Getting and Owning a Cat
Cat Nip Hissss

Here you’ll find tips Heads up! These boxes
and other goodies to warn you and your cat
roll your mind in! away from dangers and pitfalls.
Purrfect Words
MeowWOW “Cat people” speak a
These boxes contain language of our own!
feline facts and trivia You’ll find definitions of terms
for you to sink your mental and concepts related to cats in
claws into. these boxes.
Purrrrr (Acknowledgments)
Writing a book is a lot like developing a relationship with a cat.
They both take time, love, cleanup, and creativity. They also often
require the support of other people. I can’t even begin to thank by
name everyone who has contributed to this book, but if you’ve ever
talked with me about cats, introduced me to one or two, or made me
think, thank you!
My friends Robin Darnell (cat saver and doggy friend); Shelly
Seybold (Quicksilver Orientals); and Ronda Wells, M.D. (and novel-
ist), all stroked me, put up with my yowling, and tossed me an occa-
sional helping of emotional catnip. Vicki Webb has talked cats and
gone to watch cat shows with me for years. Suzie Rondot and I have
been friends since grade school, and despite time and nearly a conti-
nent between us, we still talk cats—I’m sure our mutual love of ani-
mals is part of the cement. Thanks, ladies!
My friends Debbie Ward and Janet Bernier arranged for me to
take photographs at the Pine Valley Veterinary Clinic and St. Joseph
Veterinary Hospital, respectively, and Nancy Bruns, D.V.M., and her
cats cheerfully posed for several shots at Pine Valley. Thank you!
Introduction xxi
Steve Elmer encouraged me to take more photos at the Allen

County Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, where
he serves on the board of directors. Thanks to Steve and to Tammy
Campbell, Shelter Director, and her staff, and especially to the
beautiful cats in residence there, for making my photo safari so
rewarding.
Many purrs also to Randy Ladenheim-Gil, senior acquisitions
editor, and Marie Butler-Knight, publisher, at Alpha Books, for
having faith in another book. Christy Wagner, development editor,
was, as always, a treat to work with. I’ll send some chocolate-covered
cat nip!
My appreciation to Bruce and the gang at Panera for the smiles,
the booth, and the bagels and caffeine. Many thanks also to the pho-
tographers, breeders, and owners who sent beautiful photos of your
cats. Unfortunately, I couldn’t include them all, but please know
they all inspired me.
Above all, my profound thanks to the family of cats. You are my
“meowses,” with your beauty, courage, and grace.
And as always, love, purrs, and squinty-eyed looks to my hus-
band and best friend, Roger. It’s amazing—I write when I want,
show up at the table, and you put the food right in front of me—
it’s as good as being a cat!
Trademarks
All terms mentioned in this book that are known to be or are sus-
pected of being trademarks or service marks have been appropriately
capitalized. Alpha Books and Penguin Group (USA) Inc. cannot
attest to the accuracy of this information. Use of a term in this book
should not be regarded as affecting the validity of any trademark or
service mark.
Part
1 Cats 101
You’re pretty sure you want a kitty in your life. Great! We begin by
exploring what’s involved in caring for a feline—after all, a cat is so
much more than just a cute, fluffy kitten.
If you’re still eager to have a purry companion after looking at
all the many details of cat ownership, keep reading. Next, we look
at the array of traits you need to look at when choosing your cat,
whether you go for a purebred or a “Domestic.”
(Photo by Sheila Boneham)

Chapter
1
A Cat in the Family
In This Chapter
˙ Knowing what to expect if you get a cat
˙ Evaluating the costs and benefits of living with a cat
˙ Allocating your resources for responsible care
˙ Deciding whether you really want a cat in your life
Can you think of anything more peaceful and contented than a cat,
curled up and purring in the midst of his household? Or funnier
than a kitten leaping and spinning as she plays kitten games? Loving
and soft, independent, companionable, predatory, self-possessed,
graceful, a symbol of homey comfort and wild abandon—the
domestic cat is all this and more. Perhaps that’s why the cat has
nudged out the dog as America’s most popular pet.
Ask any cat lover why they love their feline roommates, and
you’ll soon fill a book with reasons to live with a cat. But before
you rush out to adopt one, please take some time to be sure you
want everything that comes with a feline friend. Shelters and rescue
organizations are full of cats who people once thought they wanted,
and most of them will never find new homes. Responsible cat care
4 Part 1: Cats 101
costs money and time. Your cat needs nutritious food, regular veteri-
nary care, toys, and other things to keep him happy and healthy. He
also needs to give and receive loving companionship. (More on all
that later!)
You are the source of all things for your cat. He depends on you
to provide for his needs and protect him from danger and disease.
He needs your attention and gives
you his. Sometimes he gets into
MeowWOW
things, breaks things, or messes
There are more than
73 million pet cats in things up. Sometimes he consoles
the United States, making cats you and takes your mind off your
the most popular pet in the troubles. He makes you cry, and he
country. Stray and feral cats makes you laugh. And if you love
might account for an additional
him, he rewards you with a soft
60 to 100 million.
paw, a loud purr, and an unmistak-
able look of feline love.
Cats and People Through Time

Not long ago, two side-by-side graves were discovered on the island
of Cyprus. One held the remains of a human being, and the other
held the remains of a cat. The two bodies were buried with love
and respect more than 9,500 years ago. This find has lengthened by
some 6,000 years the known relationship between people and cats,
which was previously thought to date to ancient Egypt. Indeed, by
1500 B.C.E., Egyptians were keeping cats to control rodents in their
granaries and as companions in their homes, and mummified cats
have been found in ancient cemeteries throughout Egypt.
The domestic cat, Felis catus, is probably descended primarily
from the African wildcat, Felis libyca. The European wildcat, Felis sil-
vestris, might have contributed to the genetic makeup of modern
domestic cats as well.
Chapter 1: A Cat in the Family 5
MeowWOW
Scientists use Latin nomenclature to clearly identify animals and
plants. Taxonomy is the science of naming, classifying, and
organizing living organisms. The domestic cat belongs to the
family Felidae (cats, including the big wildcats), the genus Felis
(including closely related species like various wildcats of the
world), and the species catus (the domestic cat).
(Photo courtesy of Audubon Nature Institute)
The domestic cat is descended from the ancestors of this African wildcat.
Relations between people and cats haven’t always been good.

In Medieval Europe, cats were believed to be in league with Satan
and to possess magical powers. In some places, cats and dogs were
blamed for the spread of bubonic plague and slaughtered to prevent
further spread. (Ironically, the population of rats, which did carry
the plague, then increased unabated.) People who kept cats were
often executed as witches along with their pets. Domestic cats were
nearly extinct in Europe by the time attitudes changed. We still
have remnants of the old beliefs in our culture, such as the super-
stition that you’ll have bad luck if a black cat crosses your path
and Halloween images of black cats with witches. Fortunately, most
people now know that such beliefs are nonsense.
6 Part 1: Cats 101
Cats, Kids, and Community

Your child wants a pet, and you think pet ownership is a good way
to teach responsibility. Besides, you’re getting tired of the whining
and pleading. How much trouble can a little cat be, anyway?
Not much, if you want the cat. But a pet that isn’t fully wel-
comed by the adults in the family can be a world of trouble. A cat
isn’t a baby, of course, but, like a baby, he depends on his human
family for all his needs. A child
Cat Nip can’t be expected to assume that
A recent study by the responsibility alone—it’s not fair to
American Animal the child, and certainly not fair to
Hospital Association confirms the cat. Children can learn a great
what most of us have known
since childhood: the primary
deal from owning a cat, but only if
caretaker for most pets is Mom. an adult models responsible behav-
ior for the child.
Try to include all family members in the decision to get a cat.
Spend time together learning about cats. Read cat books or maga-
zines (see the appendix). Visit a cat show. This is a great opportunity
to teach children to be thoughtful and responsible when making
decisions that will affect other living beings. And don’t forget that
children’s interests change. The 10-year-old who is crying for a cat
now will likely be passionate about something else next year—or
next week!—but the cat will still need everything he needed when
you brought him home. If you live with other adults, be sure they
are comfortable with the idea of a cat in the house before you get
one.
You also need to consider your other pets before you commit
to getting a cat. If you have a dog, does he like small furry animals,
especially cats? Dogs and cats can certainly live in harmony and even
become loving friends, but not all dogs or cats appreciate contact
with the other species. If you have birds or other small animals in
your household, can you keep them safe from the natural predatory
inclinations of a cat?
(Photo by Debi Bishop)

Cats give us love and revel in the love we give them.
Beyond their households, cats are a frequent source of friction

among neighbors. Unfortunately, a minority of cat owners just don’t
care if their cats annoy other people. But our responsibilities extend
beyond our own family and pets to the communities in which we
live (see Chapter 5).
The Cost of Owning a Cat

From free to thousands of dollars, kittens and cats come with all
sorts of price tags (see Chapter 3). A feline face can capture your
heart in an instant, and it’s all too easy to underestimate the ongoing
cost of responsible care. A pet brought home on impulse can prove
very expensive!
The purchase or adoption price is a fairly minor part of the
cost of a cat over her lifetime. There’s no such thing as a free kitten!
You will need to commit to spending at least several hundred dollars
a year if your cat is to live a full and healthy life. An indoor cat
8 Part 1: Cats 101
typically requires only routine veterinary care once a year (see

Chapter 11), but advanced age, illness, or emergency care can add
significant expenses for veterinary care, medications, or special diets
(see Chapter 18).
During their first year in a new home, kittens and some adult
cats have higher veterinary expenses than they should during sub-
sequent years. Kittens need a series of vaccinations to stimulate
their immune systems to protect them from disease. So do some
adult cats who haven’t had proper health care in the past. Spaying
or neutering is normally done around 6 months of age, although
again, an adult adoptee might need to be altered. All cats need
annual veterinary care as well (see Chapter 11).
Normal annual veterinary care includes a general physical exam-
ination, shots and boosters as necessary, and tests for intestinal
worms, heartworm, and infectious diseases prevalent to where you
live. Consistent preventive care will save you money in the long
run—it’s cheaper to prevent disease than to treat it.
Of course, health care isn’t the only expense associated with cat
ownership. Other routine costs include food and treats; litter, litter
boxes, and scoops; toys; beds; climbing trees and scratching posts;
and a crate for safe travel.
A Lifetime of Love and Responsibility

The cat you bring home will likely share your life for a decade or
longer. As I write this, we live with Mary, our 17-year-old kitty. If
you have never had a cat or if it’s been a long time since you have
lived with a cat, before you bring one home, please take some time
to be sure you’re ready for the reality of living with a cat for many
years.
(Photo courtesy of Roger Boneham)

The author and Kitty enjoy a good book together.
Cat lovers are always delighted to talk about their feline com-
panions, so talk to people with cats. More important, listen to people
with cats, especially those with the kinds of cat you think you might
want. Include serious breeders, pet owners, veterinarians, and
groomers in your search. The Internet offers thousands of cat-
oriented websites, discussion lists, and bulletin boards (see the
appendix). Some are devoted to cats in general, some to individual
breeds, and some to health and behavior. Ask questions, and pay
attention. You need to know if the breed you think is oh-so-
gorgeous is talkative, a curtain climber extraordinaire, or shy
around strangers. Fortunately, there is a wide variety of traits
among the 40-some breeds of purebred and nonpurebred cats.
This book will get you started, but there’s much more information
available than I can cover here.
Your public library and local book stores should have lots of
books on cats, and several excellent magazines are devoted to cats
(see the appendix). Some breed organizations publish specialized
periodicals, and many maintain websites and will send you written
10 Part 1: Cats 101
information on request. As with any subject, some sources are more

trustworthy than others, and opinions may vary even among reliable
sources. Your best protection is to be an informed consumer.
Does this all seem like a lot of fuss for a small furry animal? It’s
not! A cat is a living being with a mind of his own. He’ll be around
for many years, and you can’t put him away on a shelf when you’re
tired of him. The time and money
Cat Nip you invest in learning about cats
If you’ve never lived before you bring one home will
with a cat or you’re not pay off in less frustration and
sure you want to commit to one heartache later. You might even
for the next decade or more, decide not to get a cat right now,
consider volunteering for a few
or not to get the kind you thought
months at your local shelter or
for a cat rescue organization. you wanted. That’s fine! It’s better
to know that before rather than
after you bring home a cat.
If you’re ready, willing, and able to provide for your cat’s mate-
rial and social needs, then forge on. There’s nothing quite like the
squint-eyed gaze of contentment and the rumbling purr you’ll get
from a cat who loves you.
The Least You Need to Know

˙ Cats and people have been enhancing each other’s lives for
10,000 years or longer.
˙ The cost of acquiring a cat is just a small part of the cost of
that cat over his lifetime.
˙ Take time to consider cat ownership, and be sure a cat will fit
your household before you bring him home.
˙ The cost of committing to a cat is more than repaid in feline
love.
Chapter
2
The Right Cat for You
In This Chapter
˙ Deciding what qualities you want in a cat
˙ Considering traits in individuals and breeds
˙ Choosing between males and females, kittens and adults
˙ Living with cats and allergies
Many people are drawn to cats or kittens by the way they look.
It’s important to remember, though, that your cat is likely to be
with you for more than a decade, even if you adopt an adult. You
will live with the complete cat, including his energy, temperament,
and behavior, not just his looks. Choosing a cat by hair or eye color
would be as silly as choosing a spouse that way!
If you really like a sleek, short, spotted coat, use that as one of
several traits you desire. Do you also want your cat to be gentle with
children or tolerant of your dog? Do you want him to be very active
and playful or calm and cuddly? The cat of your desires might turn
out to have long hair and no spots, but have a personality that
makes him your soul mate. Let’s look at some of the choices you
have.
12 Part 1: Cats 101
Purebreds and Domestics

Nonpurebred and purebred cats alike make excellent companions.
In fact, about 98 percent of cats fall outside the purebred population.
Although they are often called “mixed breeds” for convenience, this
term is misleading because most of them have no purebred cats at all
in their family trees. The terms domestic shorthair (DSH) and domestic
longhair (DLH) are more accurate,
if less concise. For brevity, I’ll call
Hissss
them Domestics throughout this
A cat is a long-term com-
panion, not a fashion book. Domestics—domestic short-
statement or bit of home décor. hairs and longhairs—come in a
You’ll both be happier if you spectacular assortment of sizes,
choose wisely. colors, patterns, coat lengths,
and personalities. Some look like
specific breeds; others do not.
(Photo by Christy Wagner)
The face of this tabby, Boomer, clearly shows the “M” on the forehead
and the cheek stripes common to all tabby-patterned cats, domestic
and wild.
Chapter 2: The Right Cat for You 13
Domestic shorthairs and longhairs make wonderful pets. You do

take some chances with a kitten—he might grow up to be bigger or
smaller than you expected or have a different coat length or person-
ality than you predicted. You might or might not see the kitten’s
mother, and chances are you’ll have no information about the father.
So size and body type, coat length, personality, and other traits are
unknowns until the kitten matures. Even color can change in some
cases!
Purebred kittens, on the other hand, develop into cats with
highly predictable traits. Predictability is the main reason people opt
for a purebred cat or kitten. That doesn’t mean cats within a breed
are all exactly alike, of course. Every cat is an individual. Just as the
members of your own human family are alike in some ways but dif-
ferent in others, members of a cat family vary in individual personal-
ities, energy levels, behavior, and appearance. But in responsibly
bred purebred cats, those variations fall within a range typical of the
breed.
The best cat in the world might just wander into your life, as the author’s cat
Leo did.
We often think of purebred cats in terms of looks alone—the

sleek blue-eyed Siamese or the elegant, long-haired Persian—but
14 Part 1: Cats 101
every breed also exhibits typical behaviors. Do you want a cat who
“talks” a lot? Would an active cat who’s always scampering and
climbing drive you batty? Do you need a cat who will enjoy a busy
household with frequent visitors? Many Domestics will undoubtedly
suit you, but it’s hard to predict which mixed kitten is the right one
for you. If specific traits are important to you, your best bet is either
an adult cat whose behavior is observable or a properly bred pure-
bred kitten of a breed known for the traits you desire.
What Is a Breed?
So how did the various breeds end up with long hair, short hair, cer-
tain colors, or predictable personalities? To develop a population of
cats with specific traits, people select individual cats with those traits
and breed them to one another. Over many generations, the traits
become “set,” meaning that certain traits—size, behavior, color,
coat, and personality—reliably appear in kittens within a breed.
Selective breeding over many generations results in animals who
breed true, producing offspring who are like the parents in most
respects. If you breed an Abyssinian to an Abyssinian, you get
Abyssinians. But if you breed an Abyssinian to a Persian, who knows
what the kittens will look like? And traits of kittens in the next gen-
eration will be even more unpredictable because the genes they
inherit are too widely assorted to produce consistent kittens. That’s
why it takes many generations of careful selective breeding to create
a breed.
Purrfect Words
Selective breeding is the practice of carefully selecting and
mating a male and female to perpetuate desirable traits and
reduce or eliminate undesirable traits in their offspring. A
breed is a group of animals within a species that are fairly
homogeneous in size, looks, personality, instincts, and other
traits, and which breed true, producing offspring with highly
predictable traits.
Do Purebreds Need Papers?

When speaking of purebred cats, we often hear about “papers.” But
what are papers? All sorts of paperwork accompanies a responsibly
bred purebred cat, but what most people mean when most people
say a cat “has papers” they mean registration papers issued by a cat
registry. Some people also mean that the cat has a pedigree, which is
simply a family tree showing the cat’s ancestors.
It’s important to understand that registration alone does not
guarantee the quality of a kitten (see Chapter 3). Responsible
breeders are honest about the parentage of their kittens and keen
to keep their pedigrees accurate. But many kittens from kitten mills
and careless kitten producers are also registered. Such “kittens for
bucks” producers use registration as a way to get more money for
their kittens and cats. In some cases, they don’t know (and don’t
really care) who the sire is. Many of their kittens are not even
purebred. Why would you pay for a purebred kitten who will grow
into a cat who neither looks nor behaves like the breed it’s supposed
to be—because it isn’t?
MeowWOW
Traditionally, registries have relied on breeders to be honest
about the kittens they register. Such integrity among breeders is
still vital, but science has also given us a new tool for verifying
a kitten’s parents—DNA testing. Although not yet used commonly
by cat breeders, DNA testing of parents and offspring is now
widely used by breeders of other domestic animals. It’s just a
matter of time before it’s in common use by cat breeders, too.
Even when the registration and pedigree are accurate, they don’t
tell you whether the kittens’ parents were checked for hereditary
problems or whether the kittens were handled properly during the
important developmental periods (see Chapters 3 and 4). You still
need to check out the breeder as well as her cats and their quality,
health, and suitability for your situation.
16 Part 1: Cats 101
If you’re buying a purebred kitten or cat, you should see the

pedigree, which will tell you if the breeder is serious about produc-
ing healthy cats who are representative of their breed or if she just
wants to pump out kittens to make money. How can you tell? First,
look at the names of the cats. Cattery names will appear in the
names of cats from serious breeders, so you’ll see names like
“Fuzzislippers Fancy Fella.” Are there initials such as CH (for
Champion) or DGCH (for Double Grand Champion) before and
after some of the cats’ names? Good! Those are abbreviations for
titles the cats have earned in competition. (If you don’t know what
the initials mean, ask the breeder. If she doesn’t know, run away
fast!) Most serious breeders compete with their cats in cat shows.
But hang on—you just want a nice, healthy, reasonably well-
behaved pet cat. Why should you care about show titles or the
breeder’s goals? You might luck out and get a dandy cat from a
badly bred litter, but the odds are not in your favor. Behavior,
health, temperament, intelligence, and beauty are all influenced by
a kitten’s genetic background, and people who breed carelessly are
usually careless about the kittens’ early handling and care as well
(see Chapters 3 and 4). Even champion parents and grandparents
will produce some kittens who won’t be shown or bred, usually for
reasons that are insignificant for the kitten’s future as a super com-
panion. So do yourself a favor—either buy a responsibly bred pure-
bred or adopt a kitty from a shelter or rescue organization. Don’t
support bad breeding—if you do, you help only the bad breeder.
Hissss
Serious breeders breed purebred cats whose pedigrees show
titled cats among the parents and grandparents as well as far-
ther back. These titles reflect the years of hard work, dedica-
tion, and careful breeding that have gone into producing the
litter you see.
Individual Choices
Whether you decide on a Domestic or a purebred, the next step
is to become an informed consumer. Read breed descriptions to get
started, and the resources in the appendix will lead you to the
detailed information you need to shop smart. In Chapter 3, we’ll
explore your options for where to get your cat. For now, let’s look at
some of the general choices you have when seeking a feline friend—
coat length, sex, age, energy, and personality traits.
(Photo by Jeff Pierson)
A longhaired cat might be just right for you if you have

time to brush her several times a week.
Sleek or Fluffy
Cats wear coats ranging from the nearly naked fine down of the
“hairless” Sphynx to the long, elegant fur of the Maine Coon.
Domestics, too, display the full range of coat lengths.
If you’re drawn to the look of a long, luxurious coat, keep in
mind that it comes with a cost. A few semi-long and longhaired
breeds are easy to maintain, but most longhaired cats require daily
18 Part 1: Cats 101
brushing to keep their hair from tangling or matting. Most cats

are fastidious self-groomers, but they simply aren’t equipped to
keep long hair in prime condition. Long hair also tends to create
more housekeeping—your vacuum and lint brush will get a workout
keeping up with the hair a longhaired cat sheds. Finally, longhaired
cats tend to be more prone to hairballs (see Chapter 7).
Blue Collar or Pink?

Many people have strong opinions about which sex makes better pets.
I’ve had both males and females, and the truth is, the individual cat is
much more important than its sex.
Regardless of sex, having your cat altered (females are spayed,
males neutered) is probably the most important thing you can do
to help your cat be a pleasant companion (see Chapters 11 and 17).
Aside from helping control the population of unwanted pets, altering
prevents a number of behaviors that are hard for humans to live with.
Kitten or Adult?
Most people think “kitten” when they decide to add a cat to the fam-
ily. There’s no question that kittens are cute and endearing, but they
have some disadvantages, too. Young kittens need extra care, supervi-
sion, and a bit of training. Kittens are fragile little creatures, and
they’re vulnerable to many hazards.
Although most cats are easy to train to use a litter box, kittens—
like all babies—do have accidents. At around 6 months, most kittens
go through a wild stage and seem to have endless energy and springs
for legs. A kitten is susceptible to disease (see Chapter 11) and will
need to visit the veterinarian several times for vaccinations and
checkups and eventually to be spayed or neutered.
If you can’t devote the time, money, and effort necessary to raise
a kitten properly, consider adopting an adult cat (see also Chapter 3).
When you choose an adult,

what you see is pretty much what Cat Nip
you get. His size and coat are Most adult cats adapt
readily apparent. You can evaluate quickly and become full-
his personality. He’s past the crazy fledged, affectionate family
members as easily as kittens do.
kitten stages that require you to do
major kitten-proofing in your
home (see Chapter 4). If you adopt from a rescue organization,
shelter, or breeder, your cat will probably have been examined by
a veterinarian, spayed or neutered, and brought current on vaccina-
tions and other health care. If your adult adoptee is a purebred from
a responsible breeder, you will get documentation of any health
clearances she’s had as well as her health history, and you’ll be able
to ask about her behavior, habits, and quirks. Cats retired from
showing and breeding are often quite young and are usually very
well socialized to people.
(Photo courtesy of Dorie Lysaght)
Even a simple toy is great fun for a kitten.

20 Part 1: Cats 101
Other Traits to Consider

A cat is more than color, coat, and conformation, of course.
I suggest you make a list of traits you definitely want, another of
traits you definitely do not want, and a third of traits on which
you’re willing to compromise. If you’re looking at purebred cats,
cross off the breeds with traits on your “don’t want” list, and do
more research on those with traits on your “want” list. When you
talk to breeders, tell them clearly what you want in a feline compan-
ion. If you’re adopting from a shelter or rescue program, do the
same (see Chapter 3 for more on adopting from rescues and shel-
ters). The prettiest cat in the world won’t be your best companion
(and vice versa) if you can’t live with his personality and behavior.
The author’s cat Leo is delighted to find a dog smaller than he is.
Two’s Company
Contrary to far-too-widespread opinion, cats are not antisocial
loners. Domestic cats are social animals. They need and thrive on
companionship. A single cat who spends long periods of time alone
can become bored, which sometimes leads to destructive behaviors.
He can also become lonely and even depressed.
If you are frequently away from home for long stretches, con-
sider getting two kittens or cats (see Chapter 5). They’ll keep each
other company and encourage each other to play and exercise.

They’ll also provide you with plenty of entertainment when you’re
there to watch. Kittens raised together usually become very close.
Older cats might require a bit more care during introductions and
an adjustment period (see Chapter 4), but most learn to get along
and enjoy one another’s company.
If you do decide to have a feline duo, be sure to make time to
interact with each cat individually so that he becomes bonded to you
and socialized to people.
What About Allergies?

Many people are allergic to proteins in the cat’s saliva (not to hair
or dander, as commonly thought). Can you have a cat if you or a
member of your household is allergic to them? Possibly! Of course,
it would be unfair to the cat to bring him home and then send him
away again, so take some time to be sure you can manage the allergy
before you get the cat.
First, see an allergist and explain that you want a cat. Ask up
front whether the doctor is willing to work with you to find a way
for you to live with a cat before you pay for an appointment. I don’t
know about you, but I expect my physicians to understand that my
pets are important to me.
Next, explore types and breeds of cats that are less likely to pro-
duce allergens. When you find a breed you may be interested in,
arrange to visit breeders or people who own the breed and only this
breed. Explain that you’d like to
spend at least 2 hours around the Purrfect Words
cats to see if you can tolerate the An allergen is a sub-
exposure. If you find a generous stance that some peo-
and willing person, you might ple’s immune systems perceive
as “foreign” or “dangerous,”
spring for lunch or bring a plate of
causing an allergic reaction,
cookies. Exploring your allergies while in most people it causes
probably isn’t anyone else’s top no response.
priority.
22 Part 1: Cats 101
Once you bring a cat into your home, a regular routine of

allergen control can help keep reactions at bay. Among the most
effective environmental precautions are the following:
˙ Minimize fabric-covered furniture that holds dander.
˙ Cover sofas and chairs, and wash the covers regularly.
˙ Replace curtains and drapes with blinds.
˙ Replace carpets with hardwood, tile, or vinyl flooring, and
use washable throw rugs.
˙ Vacuum frequently with a system designed to control allergens.
˙ Wipe down flat surfaces regularly.
˙ Install a good-quality air purification system.
You can also do a few things to control allergen output directly:

˙ Bathe your cat regularly to remove saliva and dander from
the coat. Studies have shown that even a quick rinse or wipe-
down with plain water can help.
˙ Ask your veterinarian about sprays that reduce dander.
˙ Avoid letting your cat rub against your face.
˙ Wash your hands when you finish handling the cat.
˙ Keep your bedroom as a “cat-free” zone.

˙ Purebred and nonpurebred cats both make excellent pets.
˙ Personality, behavior, grooming needs, and age are important
to consider when choosing your cat.
˙ Males and females both make great companions, especially
when neutered or spayed.
˙ You might be able to have a cat even if you or a member of
your household is allergic.
Part
2 Here Kitty, Kitty:

Where to Find Your
Special Cat
Cats and kittens are readily available—sometimes too readily. In
Part 2, I tell you why it’s to your advantage—and your cat’s—to be
knowledgeable and patient when choosing a cat. I show you how to
evaluate a source and an individual kitty and explain why informed
cat lovers dislike pet stores, kitten mills, and casual breeders.
Then I give you a checklist of things you need to do and buy
before you bring your kitty home. I’ll show you how to ease your
new cat into your family and how to set the pattern for a long and
happy relationship. We explore normal feline behavior as well as
your cat’s relationship to other family members—human and non-
human.
Finally, we look at the place of cats and cat owners in modern
society and what you can do to keep peace with your human neigh-
bors while protecting your rights as a responsible cat owner.
(Photo courtesy of Penny Crowley)

Chapter
3
Where the Cats Are
In This Chapter
˙ Evaluating individual kittens and cats
˙ Adopting a homeless cat
˙ Seeking a responsible source
˙ Avoiding problem adoptions
Now that you’ve decided whether you want a kitten or adult,

Domestic or purebred, short hair or long, it’s time to think about
choosing one special feline to step into your life and heart. Before
you venture into the places your kitty might be waiting, you’ll want
to learn what to look for, and what to avoid. Let’s look at your
options.
Choosing a Kitten
If you’re getting a kitten, try to choose one you can see with her
mother and siblings. If you can, meet the father, too, although
this is often not possible. Every kitten differs somewhat from his
parents and siblings, but many personality and behavioral traits are
26 Part 2: Here Kitty, Kitty: Where to Find Your Special Cat
inherited, and kittens learn a lot

MeowWOW from their mothers. If the mother
Ever wonder how kit- is calm and friendly with people,
tens within a litter can chances are her kittens will be,
be very different in color, coat too. If mama cat is shy or un-
length, body style, even person-
ality? A female cat on the loose
friendly, her kittens might not be
often mates with several males very social, either.
when she’s in heat, so it’s possi-
How a kitten is handled also
ble for kittens within a litter to
have different daddies. has a profound effect on his devel-
opment and attitude. A kitten who
is handled gently and frequently
by different people from his first few days onward and who is
exposed to other gentle animals will be more social throughout his
life than kittens who are ignored or mistreated during their first few
weeks. If he has been exposed to the sights, sounds, and smells of a
normal household during this period, he’ll be better adjusted and
more confident than a kitten raised away from people.
Early handling doesn’t negate a kitten’s need to be with her
mother and siblings, of course. Living in a feline family teaches a
kitten to control and behave herself. She finds out that if she bites or
scratches, the others retaliate or shun her. She learns that she can’t
always have what she wants. Kittens who are removed from their
mom and siblings too early often fail to learn these lessons. Observe
the kittens interacting with one another. A kitten should be confi-
dent and playful, but not a bully.
A healthy kitten …
˙ Is coordinated and shows no obvious physical problems.
˙ Is solid and well proportioned.
˙ Is not excessively thin for her breed.
˙ Is not pot-bellied (which might indicate roundworms).
˙ Has soft, glossy fur.
Chapter 3: Where the Cats Are 27
˙ Is free of fleas.
˙ Has no red, itchy, or bald spots.
˙ Has a clean rectal area with no sign of tapeworm (see Chap-
ter 6) or diarrhea.
˙ Has bright, clear eyes.
˙ Has pink gums and healthy-smelling breath.
˙ Breathes normally with no sneezing, coughing, or wheezing
and has no nasal discharge.
˙ Has clear eyes, fully open and free of tearing and discharge.
˙ Has clean ears, free of odor, inflammation, dirty-looking
buildup, or discharge.
˙ Should be curious and willing to approach you or at least to be
held and cuddled if he’s more reserved.
˙ Should show interest in a string or toy dragged or tossed on
the floor.
˙ Is happy and playful—unless she’s asleep!
A lethargic kitten might be ill, and a kitten who hides or reacts

with hostility when you try to touch him will be a difficult pet. Ask
the litter owner about the kittens, and be cautious if she can’t tell
you about each individual. That might mean the kittens haven’t
been handled much.
Cat Nip
When a responsible person places a kitten or cat in a new
home, she wants to be sure it’s a good match for both feline
and human. This is true whether the kitty is a purebred you
buy for a pretty penny, a homeless adult from a rescue group or
shelter, or a free kitten born to a stray someone took in. Expect
to answer questions—they’re meant to protect the cat or kitten.
Choosing an Adult Cat

Kittens are cute, but, like all babies, they require time, effort, and
patience (see Chapters 4, 11, and 12). Besides, the cute little fuzzball
stage lasts only a few short weeks out of a lifetime of more than a
decade. For many people, a grown-up cat is a better choice. Many,
many young adult cats need homes, and a mature, healthy cat of 5,
6, 7 years or even older can be a wise and wonderful companion for
years to come. With good care, cats commonly live well into their
teens (see Chapters 6, 9, and 18). Besides, the depth of love and
friendship matters more than length of life.
Adult cats are often available for adoption for reasons that have
nothing to do with the cat. Her owner might have died or become
unable to care for her. Perhaps a change in the owner’s life or job
leaves no time for the cat. Sometimes a cat doesn’t get along with
another pet in the home. Cats who are displaced for reasons like
these make fine companions and usually fit easily into a new home.
When cats do have behavioral problems, they’re often due to
lack of training or veterinary care or to abuse, rather than to any
inherent problem in the cat. Training takes time, consistency, and
patience (see Chapter 9), and if no one invests those elements in the
cat, he won’t know what’s expected of him. Fortunately, with proper
care and training, most “uneducated” cats blossom into loving, well-
behaved companions.
Some people just dump their problem cats or drop them off
with rescuers or shelters without providing any information. Many
of these cats will do fine in the right situation, but others require
experienced handling to overcome behavioral problems they’ve
developed, and some will never be good pets. If you feel uneasy
about a cat’s behavior, walk away. You won’t help the cat or yourself
by adopting the wrong cat out of pity. Take your time, and ask ques-
tions. Here are some to get you started:
˙ What do you know about this cat’s background?
˙ Why is this cat looking for a new home?
˙ Has he threatened, bitten, or clawed anyone?

˙ Is he friendly with people, other cats, and dogs?
˙ Does he use a litter box reliably?
˙ What health tests and vaccinations has he had?
˙ Has he been wormed? When, and for what kinds of worms?
˙ Does he appear to be healthy now?
˙ Has he been exposed to any contagious diseases that you
know of?
˙ Has he shown any sign of behavioral problems?
˙ Does he have any problem with any particular type of person
(men, women, children)?
˙ Do you offer any post-adoption help?
Isn’t this black and white “tuxedo cat” handsome?
If there’s no record of the cat’s veterinary care, be cautious,

especially if you already have a cat. A cat who has lacked proper care
might carry diseases or parasites that can be passed to your resident

cats or even to people (see Chapter 11). A trip to the vet will cost
some money but might save your cat’s life. If the veterinarian finds
signs of disease or parasites, ask her advice for safe cleanup, and
don’t forget to clean yourself and your clothing, including your
shoes, before you handle other animals.
Spend some time with the cat you’re considering. Hold her and
see how she reacts—she should enjoy being held and petted. If she
doesn’t relax after a few minutes, or if she acts nervous, hisses or
growls, or runs away, she’ll probably need a lot of time and patience.
Many cats overcome these behaviors in the right environment, but
some never do. If you want to try with a problem cat (see Chap-
ter 10), be sure everyone in your household is committed to the
rehabilitation process.
How Much Should You Pay?

So how much is this kitty going to cost? Cats range in price from
free for the taking to $1,000 or more. As we’ve seen, the purchase
or adoption price is a drop in the bucket when measured against
a lifetime of care, but there are still some things to think about.
(Photo courtesy of Ann Geesaman)
Regardless of the purchase price, there’s nothing sweeter than a kitten.

There always seem to be free kittens around, but many people

are reluctant to give any animal away for free. Not only do they
have some money invested (assuming they’re taken proper care of
the kittens and mother cat), but they also know that free kittens
often meet terrible deaths at the hands of despicable people who use
them for snake food, bait for fighting dogs, and other unspeakable
things. So don’t be surprised if you’re asked to pay something—
perhaps a prepaid spay or neuter or a fee to cover early vaccinations
and other care. Shelters and rescue groups also charge adoption
fees—which usually don’t begin to cover their operating costs.
People who offer kittens for free might not have given them the
kind of care and handling that prepares them to be well-adjusted,
healthy pets, so free isn’t always the best option.
Purebred kittens cost considerably more for a number of rea-
sons. First, they’re rarer than Domestics. More important, their
breeders have a lot of money invested in good-quality animals, top-
of-the-line food and health care, screening for genetic diseases, and
competition (see “Buying a Purebred Kitten or Cat”). If you want a
purebred kitten, expect to pay $800 or more. An adult purebred
retired from showing or breeding might be a bit less.
Adopting a Homeless Cat

Adopting a kitty who needs a home can be a rewarding experience
for both of you. As an adopter, you’ll know you’ve helped save a life
and gained a best friend in the process. And cats who have lost their
homes seem to understand and appreciate their good fortune when
they do find new loving families.
Shelters
Wonderful cats of all ages are waiting in animal shelters. Some have
been turned in by their owners for reasons discussed earlier, and
others were found wandering as strays. Shelters vary widely in their
policies and practices. Some are funded publicly; some privately.
Some accept any animal in need but must limit the time allowed
each animal before resorting to euthanasia to make room for others.
“No-kill” shelters, do not euthanize animals to make room, but they
do turn away animals they think will be difficult to place.
Shelter staff are usually dedicated and caring people, but their
knowledge and ability to assess individual animals varies. Before you
adopt, find out how the cats are evaluated, who does the evaluation,
and what is included. Some shelters have all incoming cats examined
by a veterinarian and checked for parasites. Some evaluate the cat’s
temperament and behavior and keep information about the cat’s his-
tory in his previous home if it’s available. But many shelters lack the
resources to provide such services and have to get by with minimal
evaluations.
Observe the physical environment. If the shelter doesn’t seem
clean or the cat’s health seems questionable, be cautious. If you’ve
fallen in love with a particular cat, consider taking him to your vet-
erinarian for an exam and possibly for quarantine before you take
him home, especially if you already have a cat.
To adopt a shelter cat, you’ll
MeowWOW have to complete an application,
Many shelters offer and you’ll probably have to wait
discount coupons for a few days before taking your cat
spaying and neutering adopted home so your information can be
animals at local veterinary verified and you will have time to
clinics.
reflect on your decision before
making the final commitment.
The next step will be to choose your kitten or cat. A walk
through the adoption area can be overwhelming—there are just so
many cats in need of homes. You can’t take them all (really, you
can’t!), so before you go, make a list of the traits you want and the
traits you don’t want (see also Chapter 2). Your list will keep you on
track.

You might find white kitties such as this one at your local shelter. A pure
white cat's fur completely lacks pigment.
Cats don’t always appear at their best in the stressful environ-

ment of a shelter. Many become agitated, quiet and depressed, or
just plain scared. If you see a kitty you think you might like, ask if
you can take him to a quiet place where you can interact with him.
Sit quietly, talk to him softly, and see what happens. If you have
children, explain that the cat is afraid. Kids are usually sympathetic,
quiet, and gentle when they understand that an animal is frightened.
If they’re too young to understand, meet the cat without the little
ones at first.
Cat Rescue Programs

Rescue refers to individuals and groups who take in and foster cats
(and other animals) and then place them in new homes. Rescuers
are nearly always unpaid volunteers. They give their time, knowl-
edge, and cat-handling skills because they love cats. Some cat rescue
groups accept any kind of cat; others are devoted to a single breed.
Rescued cats tend to be older adolescents or adults, although
kittens are sometimes available. Most spend time in foster care,
where each cat’s temperament, behavior, and needs are assessed in
a household environment. Rescued cats are generally given physical

examinations, and potential adopters are advised about possible
health problems. All reputable rescuers require that every cat be
spayed or neutered before it is placed or soon afterward. Good res-
cue organizations will not place a cat with a history of behavioral
problems unless they believe the problems are resolved. Ask what
the policy is on these issues.
MeowWOW
Rescue organizations need volunteers. You don’t have to
handle cats to help—there are lots of other jobs you could do,
from making telephone calls to fund-raising to bookkeeping. If
you’d like to help the rescue effort for a few hours a month, con-
tact a group to see where you might fit in. (Find a rescue organi-
zation by contacting the organizations listed in the appendix or
visiting their websites. You can also search the Internet for “cat
rescue” or “rescue” plus a specific breed.)
If you want to adopt a rescued cat, you will be asked to complete

an application, provide references, and allow a volunteer to visit
your home. The rescuers aren’t just nosy—they want to ensure a
good match. When you adopt, you’ll sign a contract and pay an
adoption fee. Many adopters make an additional donation to help
support the group’s work. They’ll also give you information about
your cat and, if she’s a purebred, about the breed.
Most rescue groups provide post-adoption support. Rescuers
love to hear from adopters—knowing that a cat they saved is doing
well and making someone happy is their main reward.
Private Adoptions
You might see kittens or a cat advertised in a newspaper or on a bul-
letin board. Sometimes you can find a terrific pet this way, but pro-
ceed with caution. If you’re looking at an adult cat, ask the questions
outlined earlier in this chapter. If you’re looking at kittens, be sure
they’ve been handled and socialized. Most people won’t keep the
kittens until the ideal 12 to 16 weeks, and a 7- to 8-week-old kitten
might do okay, but adopting very young kittens carries risks (see
Chapter 4).
Keep in mind that people who don’t bother to have their female
pets spayed and who have litter after litter to give away are unlikely
to provide proper health care, nutrition, and socialization to the kit-
tens. If you want to avoid supporting irresponsible breeding, look
for someone who took in a pregnant cat or who has spayed or will
soon spay the pet who was accidentally bred.
Strays
Sometimes the most wonderful cat just strolls into your life. One of
the best cats we ever had was Leo, an orange tabby someone found
and brought to my vet’s office. It was love at first sight. Rescuing a
cat from life on the streets can be very rewarding, even if you don’t
keep him yourself.
Remember, even if you take the cat to a shelter, you might have
saved her from terrible things, including starvation, poisoning,
mauling by other animals, cars, and cruel people. Our world is
neither friendly nor safe for stray animals.
Be very careful when trying to catch or handle a cat you don’t
know, and call for trained help if necessary. Don’t reach for a cat
who hisses, bares his teeth, arches
his back, or otherwise warns you Purrfect Words
off. If he threatens to bite, believe A humane trap is a
him. If you’re not used to han- wire cage with a
dling frightened cats or if you’re spring-loaded door. You put
bait—food—inside the trap,
not sure you can handle or confine
and when the animal enters to
the cat safely, leave him alone. Go get the bait, the door closes
for knowledgeable help or get a behind him. Many veterinarians
humane trap. Don’t take foolish and animal shelters have hu-
chances. mane traps available for rent.

Beautiful, loving cats like this handsome
fellow are waiting in shelters and rescue
programs to be adopted.
Some stray cats will come to you or allow you to approach them.
That certainly simplifies matters, but be careful—you do not want
to be holding a cat who panics. Trust me—cat bites and swipes hurt!
A panicky cat can also inflict serious, permanent injury. If possible,
use a cat carrier to confine the cat securely, especially if you plan to
transport him in your car. You definitely don’t want a frightened cat
bouncing around while you’re driving.
Of course, that stray might
MeowWOW have a frantic owner looking for
Microchips occasion- him. Check his collar for tags. If
ally migrate down the he doesn’t have a name tag, you
neck or leg, so if you’re scan- might be able to trace the owner
ning a cat for a microchip, be through a license or rabies tag.
thorough.
If the cat has no tags, have him
scanned for a microchip (see
Chapter 6) if possible. Most animal shelters, rescue groups, and
veterinarians have scanners to read microchips. If you find a
microchip, check with the registries to locate the owner.
If you’ve found a cat who has no identification, you can place a

found ad in the local newspaper (they’re often free), post signs, read
the lost ads, and watch for lost-cat posters. Give out only enough
information to avoid irrelevant calls. Withhold some identifying
information—eye color, coat length, or sex, perhaps—and make the
person claiming the cat identify the cat to your satisfaction. Ask to see
photos and veterinary records to prove ownership.
Feral Cats and Kittens

Feral cats are domestic cats gone wild. Those who were born feral
might never have been handled by people and might even have
been victims of actions meant to scare them away or hurt them. Some
can be re-domesticated with time and patience, but others, especially
adults who have been feral all their lives, might never be reliable pets.
Feral cats have sharpened their wits just to survive, and they can
be very hard to catch. If you do manage to catch one, keep in mind
that he’s probably frightened and he’s lived by defending himself with
fang and claw. Unless you’re experienced handling uncooperative
cats, take him to a shelter, rescuer, or veterinarian who has the experi-
ence and equipment to manage the situation.
Kittens born to a feral cat can be a challenge (see “Choosing a
Kitten”). If the kittens have been brought into a human environment
while they’re still very young (preferably before 3 to 4 weeks old) and
handled frequently by people, they will probably adjust to domestic
life. But older feral kittens who have not been handled can be very
difficult as pets.
Buying a Purebred Kitten or Cat

If you’ve decided on a purebred kitten or cat, your best source is a
responsible breeder committed to the health and well-being of his
cats and his breed. Such breeders try hard to match each cat, regard-
less of age, to the right home, and they’re reliable resources for their
buyers for the life of the cat.
Responsible breeders plan each litter carefully and provide good

pre- and post-natal care and a clean, warm, safe environment. They
socialize their kittens and give them good veterinary care. When the
kittens are old enough (see Chapter 4), they place each one carefully.
Their kittens aren’t merchandise—they’re bits of the breeder’s heart.
A responsible breeder also …
˙ Keeps her kittens 12 to 16 weeks.
˙ Answers your questions and asks lots of her own.
˙ Welcomes you to visit and meet her cats (with restrictions to
prevent disease).
˙ Belongs to one or more cat organizations (see the appendix).
˙ Screens for hereditary diseases that occur in the breed.
˙ Knows about relatives of the cats she breeds.
˙ Requires pets to be spayed or neutered.
˙ Explains the disadvantages as well as advantages of her breed.
˙ Handles and socializes her kittens.
˙ Knows every kitten as an individual.
˙ Provides and asks for references.
˙ Doesn’t sell “purebred but unregistered” kittens or charge extra
for “papers.”
˙ Makes you prove you’re worthy of owning one of her cats!
You’ll likely hear the term pet

Hissss quality, which does not mean infe-
It’s easy to transmit dis- rior quality! Even in a litter from
ease and parasites.
generations of champions, some
Never visit two catteries, shel-
ters, or rescuers in a row with- kittens will have coat or eye color
out going home, showering, a bit off the standard, ears slightly
and changing clothes, including too small or too big, or shape or
your shoes. proportions that aren’t perfect.
These technical “faults” have no effect on the cat’s value as a com-

panion, and most people won’t see them even if the breeder points
them out.
A visit to a cat show will lead you to breeders and give you a
chance to see lots of cats. Don’t expect breeders to spend a lot of
time talking to you—remember, they’re competing. Ask for business
cards from those who interest you, and contact them after the show.
Most of all, watch, enjoy, and learn. To find a cat show near you,
visit www.cfainc.org/shows.html, or contact the organizations listed
in the appendix.
Cat magazines feature breeder ads, many of them with stunning
photos of gorgeous cats (see the appendix). Be a savvy consumer,
and remember that a glitzy ad doesn’t make a good breeder or qual-
ity cats. Responsible breeders are happy to show you registration
papers, health clearances, title certificates, pedigrees, and other
paperwork. Beware of anyone who doesn’t willingly support claims
with proof.
Responsible breeders sell their kittens on contracts that typically
include a health guarantee, refund policy, spay/neuter and proper
care requirements, and a stipulation that the breeder must have a
chance to take the cat if you ever decide you don’t want her or can’t
care for her.
If all this seems intrusive, keep in mind that it is the breeder’s
responsibility to do everything possible to ensure that the kittens
she brings to the world live good lives. If you don’t like something
in the contract, ask the breeder to explain the thinking behind it—
there might be a good reason you haven’t considered. If you’re still
uncomfortable and the terms can’t be changed, consider a different
breeder.
(Photo courtesy of Tracy Kane)

These Cornish Rex kittens and their dam are clearly well cared for.
Where Not to Buy a Cat

Buying kittens who have been irresponsibly bred, handled, and sold
supports cruelty and perpetuates production of cats with serious
physical and mental problems. And with all the wonderful cats and
kittens available from shelters and rescue groups as well as responsi-
ble breeders, it’s hard to imagine that you’d want to support irre-
sponsible breeding or selling of cats. But it is easy to be misled by
people whose only goal is to make a buck.
Pet Stores
Pet stores get their merchandise—that’s what pets are to them—
from commercial breeders, brokers, kitten mills, and backyard or
“accidental” breeders. Responsible breeders do not think of kittens as
merchandise, and they do not entrust the well-being of their kittens to
strangers.
Pet stores rely on the emotional appeal of kittens to sell them to
anyone with the money. Some lucky buyers get good pets, but the
odds are against it. People who produce kittens for pet stores don’t
care about careful breeding for health and temperament. They don’t
handle and socialize the kittens properly, and they take them from
their mothers and siblings too early (see Chapter 4). If that’s not
bad enough, pet stores often charge more than shelters, rescuers,
private parties, and responsible breeders do. And pet store guaran-
tees usually cover kittens only for a short term and rarely for in-
herited disease or temperament problems.
As with most rules, there is an exception: Some pet supply stores
work with local shelters to help place cats and other homeless ani-
mals. Before you adopt from such a program, though, please be sure
the animals are being screened and adopted out responsibly under
the normal procedures of the shelter or rescue group and aren’t just
a public relations ploy.
Kitten Mills
Kitten mills mass produce kittens and sell them to brokers who then
resell them. Some kitten mills also sell directly to the public.
Kitten millers don’t care about their animals’ physical and men-
tal health. Most start with poorly bred cats and provide poor-quality
food and health care. The cats get little or no exercise, socialization,
or affection. Queens are bred every heat until they can no longer
produce kittens, and toms are bred as much as possible as long as
they are fertile. Then they are often killed, dumped, or left to lan-
guish until they die. Poor pre- and post-natal nutrition can cause the
kittens physical and mental problems, which are compounded by
taking them away from their
mothers too young and by
improper handling and Purrfect Words
socialization—not an auspicious A queen is a female
start for a healthy, happy com- cat. A tom is a male.
panion.
Pet wholesalers, or brokers, buy kittens in large numbers from

kitten mills in the United States and abroad, then sell or trade them
to other wholesalers, pet stores, or other outlets. Those who ship
across state lines have to be licensed by the United States Depart-
ment of Agriculture and are supposed to adhere to the Animal
Welfare Act. However, the law specifies only minimal physical care
and isn’t well enforced. Millers and brokers consider pets to be a
commodity, like furniture and clothes, and expect to “lose” some.
But as long as there’s a market for pets produced as merchandise,
bad breeders and brokers will stay in business. Please don’t support
them.

˙ Cats are not interchangeable, so take the time to find the right
individual for you.
˙ A wonderful pet might be waiting for you in a shelter or with
a rescuer.
˙ Getting your kitten or cat from a responsible source is the
smart thing to do.
˙ Being observant and asking the right questions can help you
avoid problem adoptions.
Chapter
4
Welcome Home!
In This Chapter
˙ Preparing for your new cat
˙ Gathering all the supplies Felix will need
˙ Getting checked veterinary check-up
˙ Introducing the newcomer at the right time
You’ve done your homework and you’re sure you want a cat. You’ve
researched domestic shorthairs and longhairs, breeds and breeders,
and rescue groups and shelters, and you’ve finally found the cat
you’ve been looking for. Now it’s time to make the final decisions
and get your house in order for welcoming your new friend.
Kitty-Proofing—for Adult Cats, Too

Many kittens and adult cats love to perch up high, squeeze into
small places, run, pounce, and play with all sorts of things. All these
actions are based on instincts that help your cat’s wild relatives sur-
vive. In a human environment, though, normal feline behavior can
get a cat into trouble.
Cats aren’t born knowing what’s allowed and what’s off limits in
the human world. We have to teach them and protect them. Pre-
vention is the best protection, and you can accomplish it in two
ways: by kitty-proofing your home and by confining your kitty
when you can’t supervise him until you know he’s reliable.
Kitty-proofing is a lot like child-proofing, except that kitties are
smaller, faster, and better climbers than toddlers and young children
and they have much sharper teeth and claws. How long you’ll have
to kitty-proof your home depends on the individual cat and the
specific precautions. Some temptations are too much to resist, even
for an adult cat.
Move breakables out of reach. If you have tablecloths or runners
just begging to be climbed or pulled, remove them until you’re
confident your cat will leave them alone. Move houseplants out of
reach, too—some kitties will chew leaves (some of which are toxic—
see Chapter 13) and dig in the dirt. Remove other potential hazards
from reach as well. Pins, razor blades, cigarette butts, nylon stock-
ings, chocolate, medicines, yarn—none of these are good for a curi-
ous cat.
Hissss
Your house (and garden, if you let your cat outside) contains
many potentially lethal hazards for your cat. Many common
plants are toxic, as are oils in potpourri, lawn treatments, pest-
control poisons, and antifreeze. Nicotine and filters from tobacco
products or nicotine gum or patches can kill a cat. Keep kitties
away from open containers of hazardous products (curious kittens
have been known to fall into containers of motor oil), and dis-
pose of empty containers for hazardous products where your kitty
can’t get to them.
Take a look at your home from a feline perspective. Get down

on your hands and knees and check under and behind furniture and
in small spaces that might attract an inquisitive cat. Shield electrical
and telephone wires in protective sheaths (available in hardware and
Chapter 4: Welcome Home! 45
home stores) or with PVC pipe cut to the appropriate length. Teach
your kitty what’s allowed and what isn’t (see Chapter 9).
Some foods that we take for granted and may leave within easy
reach are also dangerous for cats. Chocolate, coffee, and tea can
cause reactions ranging from diarrhea to seizures to death. Raisins
and grapes can cause permanent—and fatal—kidney damage. Foil,
plastic wrap, and strings used to bind meat can cause intestinal
blockage if swallowed, and raw or leftover meats might contain
dangerous bacteria or parasites.
Part of the kitty-proofing process is simply a matter of common
sense. If you think something might be dangerous for your cat, it
probably is. Many hazards are obvious—toxic plants, medications,
cleaning supplies, etc. Others might not be. Observing these hints
should help you make your home cat-safe:
˙ Keep toilet lids closed—a curious kitten could fall in and
drown, and toilet bowl cleaners leave toxic residue in the bowl.
˙ Keep small objects (rubber bands, coins, pins and needles,
thread, yarn, string, dental floss, and so on) where your kitty
can’t get them.
˙ Store fish hooks and fishing line out of feline reach.
˙ Remove loops from blind or drapery cords to prevent strangu-
lation.
˙ Be sure window screens are secure to keep your kitty from
falling or escaping.
˙ Cats love warm places—keep your cat away from open flames
(candles, fireplaces, open wood stoves).
˙ Keep washers and dryers closed, and check inside before using.
˙ Keep enclosed places such as cupboards, closets, refrigerators,
and freezers closed, and seal or remove doors on those that are
not in use.
˙ Know where your cat is before using reclining chairs, sofa beds,
and similar furnishings.
˙ Holidays bring special hazards—protect your kitty from tinsel,
breakable decorations, electrical cords, and toxic foods (see also
Chapter 13).
Caro, a Scottish Fold, demonstrates why many

cat owners don’t hang breakable ornaments on
their Christmas trees!
Shopping for Felix

If you shop before your new feline friend’s homecoming, you’ll be
able to spend the first few days getting to know each other instead
of running off to the pet supply store. Here’s a basic list for your
shopping trip:
˙ Cat carrier. Many people get cat carriers (or crates) for
their cats. When you need to take kitty somewhere, he’ll be
much safer traveling in a carrier than loose in a car or held
in someone’s arms. Plastic airline-approved crates offer the best
protection in an accident. Carriers cost about $18 to $45 new
and are available from pet supply stores, discount stores, and
online (see the appendix). Unless you’re willing to buy a larger
carrier later, buy one that will accommodate the adult cat your
kitten will become.
You might want to pad the bottom of the carrier. Some people
use towels, but be cautious—tiny claws can easily snag on terry
cloth, and kittens and cats sometimes swallow loose strings,
which can lead to serious problems. Special pads are available
for carriers, or a small, tightly woven blanket might work.
˙ Collar. An adjustable flat nylon collar with a safety quick-
release closure works well for a most cats. The safety release
will open if the collar becomes caught—a feature that has saved
more than one high-climbing feline from being hanged. Nylon
collars come in a rainbow of colors and are inexpensive. Check
the fit often, and readjust or replace the collar when your kitten
outgrows it.
˙ Name tag or microchip. Provide your cat with an identifica-
tion tag with your telephone number in case he gets lost. For
more permanent identification, consider a microchip (see
Chapter 6 for more on identification and for tips on finding
a missing kitty).
˙ Grooming supplies. The supplies you need will depend on
the type of coat your cat has. (For more details, see Chapter 7.)
˙ Safe toys. Now we get to the fun shopping—toys! Choose
good-quality toys, and throw them away when they develop
sharp points or break. Plastic eyes, loose strings, and synthetic
stuffing can injure or even kill your kitty if they’re swallowed.
Select toys in sizes appropriate to your cat so he can’t swallow
them. If you’re not sure if a toy is safe, ask your veterinarian.
˙ Scratching post. A scratching post is essential not only to save
your furniture, but to satisfy your cat’s natural urge to scratch
(see Chapter 9).
˙ Food. Commercial cat food ranges from cheap to very pricey,
from questionably nutritious to superbly healthful. It’s not
necessary to feed your kitty the most expensive food available,
but he will be healthier and you’ll save on vet bills if you feed
a good-quality food (see Chapter 8).
˙ Treats. You may want some special treats, too, but please don’t
get carried away! Too many goodies will throw your kitty’s
nutrition out of balance and make yours a fat cat. Buy healthful
treats, and hand them out sparingly. Avoid foods and treats full
of dyes—color doesn’t matter to your cat.
˙ Food and water bowls. Food and water bowls come in a vast
assortment. Some cats are allergic to chemicals in plastic, so
keep that in mind if your cat has a problem you can’t identify.
Be aware, too, that ceramic bowls made outside the United
States might contain lead and other toxins that can leach into
food and water.
˙ Litter box (or two) and litter. The options for kitty com-
modes are astonishing, from inexpensive simple flat litter pans
to fancy self-cleaning systems with just-as-fancy prices. Litter,
too, comes in a wide range of materials and prices. Often,
simple is better. For more information, see Chapter 9.
Scheduling a Check-Up
Your new kitty will need a veterinary examination. If you have
a resident cat, be sure both cats are healthy before you bring the
new one home (see “Welcoming Your New Feline Friend” and
Chapters 11 and 12 on feline health). Otherwise, schedule the exam
as soon as possible to ensure that your new kitty is healthy and to
establish a baseline for future reference.
During the first exam, your vet will check your kitty’s general
health, skin and coat, heart, lungs, ears, gums, teeth, and external
eye area. She’ll take your kitty’s temperature, weigh him, and vacci-
nate him if necessary. It’s also a good idea to have the vet test the cat
for common illnesses and for parasites (you should provide a fecal
sample).
Give your veterinarian copies of whatever health-care records

you received when you got your kitty. If you live in an area in which
heartworm is a concern, ask about testing for heartworm and about
heartworm prevention. (See also Chapter 11.)
What’s in a Name?
Your cat needs a name! Here are some tips for choosing one that
will suit her throughout her life:
˙ Choose a name that sounds different from any commands you
will use, especially negative commands. If you say “Off!” to
mean “get off the counter,” don’t name your cat Fluff or Jeff.
˙ Choose a name that sounds different from other household
names. If your daughter’s name is Connie, don’t name your cat
Bonnie.
˙ Choose a short name as it is usually easier to say and easier for
your cat to learn to recognize.
˙ If you’re naming a kitten, remember to choose a name that will
be appropriate for the adult cat of the future.
˙ Choose a name that bestows the honor and dignity your cat
deserves. “Booger” might seem funny at first, but would you
really want that on your cat’s vet records? Do you want people
to think of your cat as something dirty and worthless?
If you’re at a loss for name ideas, try baby name books or the
2000 Cat Names website at www. petrix.com/catnames/. You’ll find
more names here than you could use in a lifetime!
If you buy a purebred kitten, ask your breeder for help selecting
a registered name and registering your kitten, or contact the appro-
priate registry for assistance.
Welcoming Your New Feline Friend

Remember the adage about first impressions being important? The
same principle applies to your cat’s first encounter with his new
home. His experiences as you remove him from the environment
he knows and introduce him to his new home will affect how well
he adjusts. Let’s see how you can make the transition easier for
everyone—especially your new cat.
Because you’ll probably be bringing your cat home in the car, a
sturdy cat carrier will make the trip less frightening for your cat and
safer for everyone (see Chapter 15). If possible, give your cat a blan-
ket or towel that she’s slept on in the crate—the familiar smell will
calm and comfort her.
Limiting the number of changes he experiences in the first few
days will help your cat settle in. If possible, give him the same kind
of food he’s been eating and use the same brand of litter he’s used to.
Once he has adjusted to his new environment, a change in food or
litter won’t bother him as much.
Arrange an area—preferably a room you can close—where you
can confine your new cat and where she can have some privacy,
especially if you have a busy family or other pets. Put her food and
water, litter box, scratching post, and toys in the room. Many cats
will hide for the first few stressful days, so giving her “a room of
her own” at first will allow her to adjust to the smells and sounds
of your home without having to interact constantly with people
and animals. Leave the open carrier in the room, so she has a safe
retreat if she wants one. A very young kitten especially doesn’t need
the run of the house—there are too many things to get into that
might hurt her.
Bring your cat home when things are relatively calm. If you
have no other cats and no dog, let him explore the house for a while,
and confine him only when he seems overly stressed or when you
aren’t around. Spend as much time as you can with him, but don’t
force yourself on him. Letting him make the early advances will
develop his trust and speed up the bonding process. Talk softly,
and pet him if he seems interested, but don’t try to pick him up. It
might take several weeks for a new cat to feel at home, or it might
happen overnight, depending on his temperament, age, and prior
experience.
If you want your kitten to quiet down when you’re ready to go
to bed, don’t let her sleep for hours before you turn in. Interact with
her—groom her, play with her, and cuddle her. You can do all this
even while watching TV, and the time you spend will build the bond
between you and also help you get some sleep later. If your kitten’s
still rambunctious during the night, confine her to “her” room with
safe toys to entertain her. You might want to choose a room away
from yours—I was awakened in the wee hours of many a morning
by the sound of my kitten Malcolm playing “bat the ball” in the liv-
ing room!
Introductions All Around

Try not to overwhelm your new cat as he learns his way around.
Introduce human family members one at a time. Teach children how
to interact with him calmly and gently. Show them how to stroke his
fur, and don’t let them chase him, hurt him, or bother him when
he’s sleeping, eating, or using the litter box. Toddlers often want
to hug, but many cats don’t appreciate the gesture, so supervise all
interaction between your cat and young children. If you have a baby,
don’t allow the cat in the crib, and be sure to keep food and litter
out of the way of curious little hands.
Cat to Cat
If you already have a cat (or cats), he may be less than thrilled about
the newcomer. Let them each get used to the idea of feline room-
mates without direct contact at first. Confine your new cat to “his”
room, and allow your resident cat the run of the rest of the house.
Smells are very important to

Cat Nip cats (see Chapter 5). The chance
If you’re introducing a to learn one another’s personal
new cat into a home odors will help your cats adjust
with resident cats or dogs, trim to one another, and you can help
those kitty claws to keep dam-
the “scent introductions” in
age to a minimum in case of an
unfriendly encounter. several ways. Let the cats sniff one
another under the door to your
new cat’s room. There might be
some hissing and growling at first, but that should subside in a few
days. Rub your new cat with a towel and give the towel to the resi-
dent cat and vice versa, or switch the rugs or cushions they’ve lain
on. When your new cat is comfortable with “his” room, take him
out (preferably in his carrier), put your resident cat in the new cat’s
room, close the door, and let the newcomer explore the rest of the
house for a while. Then switch them back.
Food can facilitate good relations. If possible, feed the cats
on either side of the door to the newcomer’s room. If that’s not
possible, rub each cat with a towel, and use the towel for a “place
mat” under the other one’s food bowl. Soon, they’ll each associate
the other cat’s smell with food.
When both cats seem to be comfortable with the situation, it’s
time to let them see each other without full contact. (If you already
have more than one resident cat, make the visual introductions one
at a time, and give the new cat some time in between.) One way to
do this is to put your new cat in his carrier and allow the resident
access to the carrier. Or prop open the door to the “cat room” just
enough to let them see each other and put a paw through. You can
also place a screen or gate between them, but be sure it’s high
enough that they can’t jump over it. Some people recommend let-
ting the cats see each other through a window, but because this
blocks smells, it’s not the best option. When the cats are comfort-
able seeing one another, begin feeding them within sight of each
other.
When they’re eating and interacting well with limited contact,

try feeding them at opposite ends of the same room with no barrier.
Supervise mealtime, and separate the cats again when they’ve fin-
ished. Over the course of several days, move the dishes closer
together until the cats are eating side by side.
Feeding cats near one another helps build and reinforce social bonds. (Photo by Christy Wagner)
Now it’s time to open the door and let the cats have access to
one another when you’re around. Don’t leave them together when
you’re not home until you are sure they’ll get along well. If things
are going smoothly at this point, it shouldn’t be long.
Cat to Fido
Cats and dogs can be great friends, but it might take some time for
trust and friendship to develop. If your cat has been with dogs be-
fore and your dog is used to cats, things should go smoothly once
they get used to the idea. If this is the first encounter with the other
species for one or both of them, friendship might take a little longer.

Annie and Merlin show that dogs and cats can become the best of friends.
Introduce your dog and your new cat slowly and carefully. If you
have more than one dog, introduce them to the new kitty one at a
time so the newcomer won’t be intimidated. Establish “dog-free”
areas where your cat can sleep, eat, play, and use the litter box. Put
the new cat in a separate room (see “Cat to Cat”), and supervise all
interaction until you’re sure they’re okay together.
Let the cat explore the house while the dog is outdoors or con-
fined to a closed room or crate. If the cat wants a look at the dog, let
him look, but let the cat determine how quickly the relationship will
develop. Talk to both the cat and the dog to help them understand
that they both belong in the family now. Don’t let the dog chase or
rough up the cat. If the cat hisses or swipes at the dog, distract the
dog. Don’t punish the cat—she needs to set limits for her own
safety, especially if the dog is larger than she is. If the cat is really
upset, separate them and try again later.
Cat to Other Pets

If you have a bird or a “little furry thing,” always remember that
your cat is by nature a predator. Unless the cat was exposed to
animals that are normally his natural prey when he was between
2 and 7 weeks old (see “Kittens Are Special” as well as Chapters 5

and 17), he’s unlikely to form a bond of friendship with small mam-
mals and birds.
It’s up to you to keep vulnerable pets safe. Keep them in secure
enclosures with paw-proof door latches, and consider preventing
the cat’s access to the enclosure when you aren’t present. Place bird
cages out of reach, and provide hiding places in mammals’ enclo-
sures. A potential prey animal is very aware of a predator’s desires
and can become extremely stressed if he’s unable to hide.
Kittens Are Special

Kittenhood lasts only a few short weeks, but what important weeks
they are! This is the time when the foundation is laid for a happy,
healthy life, and in the best of all worlds, that foundation comes
from living with Mom and siblings.
A kitten will grow into a physically and mentally healthier cat if
she stays with her mom and siblings for 12 to 16 weeks. A kitten
develops critical social skills between 6 and 12 weeks of age. She
learns that biting and scratching are unacceptable in polite society—
if she forgets, Mama and the other kittens bite back or shun her. She
learns to handle frustration as Mom’s milk bar becomes less and less
available. Weaning, which usually occurs naturally when kittens are
8 to 12 weeks old, isn’t an event during which a kitten switches from
milk to solid food but a process during which the kitten becomes
independent of her mother. During this time, kittens typically
develop many skills and habits, not the least of which is to use the
litter box reliably.
Kittens who leave their mothers and siblings too soon often
display lifelong symptoms of emotional and behavioral problems,
some relatively minor, others serious. Some cats become neurotically
dependent on their owners, fearful of other people, and distraught
when left home alone. Cats who are lucky enough to enjoy the
company of another cat often do well, but many kittens taken from
their natal families before they learn feline social skills never live
comfortably with other cats.
Removing a kitten too young also poses serious health risks.
Between 8 and 12 weeks of age, the immunity a kitten gets from
his mother (if she’s healthy and well protected herself) is wearing
off and the immunity from vaccination is becoming effective. For
a time, the kitten might be virtually unprotected against disease.
During this time, he is highly vulnerable to distemper, upper-
respiratory problems, diarrhea, and a host of other ailments. It’s
impossible to determine exactly when an individual kitten is unpro-
tected, though. There’s some evidence that vaccinations offer no
lasting protection prior to 16 weeks.
Raising a healthy, well-adjusted cat from a very young kitten
does require some extra effort to protect him while he’s vulnerable
to disease (see Chapter 11) and to socialize him as well as possible
(see Chapter 5). For the kitten’s well-being, sometimes our better
judgment has to outweigh the “adorable” factor.

˙ Kitty-proof your home to protect your new kitten or cat—as
well as your belongings.
˙ Shop for the essentials before your cat comes home.
˙ Schedule a check-up with your veterinarian preferably before
you bring your new cat home.
˙ Take some time to help your new kitty make friends with
everyone in your household.
˙ Allow your kitten to have a kittenhood that prepares her for
a happy life.
Chapter
5
Understanding Your Cat
In This Chapter
˙ Seeing cats as cats
˙ Understanding your cat’s senses
˙ Planning for feline socialization
˙ Recognizing feline traits
It’s easy sometimes to think of our cats as “fur babies.” But it’s im-
portant to remember that they aren’t little people in fur coats. The
fact is, they’re far more interesting as cats, and the more we observe
and learn about them, the more we realize just how amazing it is
that our two species have forged such a long and wonderful bond.
In this chapter, we’ll explore a few of the things that make our cats
so fascinating and appealing.
The Sensual Cat

Our pet cats, despite thousands of years of domestication, are linked
by their senses to their wild forebears, whose vision, hearing, and
other bodily systems work together to enable them to survive in the
wild. Even your fat cat on the couch is, at heart, the consummate
stalker and killer. His ability to sense the world around him far
exceeds our own. Let’s take a look at what the cat’s organs and
senses mean in a domestic setting.
Whiskers and the Sense of Touch

Your cat’s whiskers, or vibrissae, are sensitive organs of touch, serving
much the same role as our fingertips. Usually, when we think of
whiskers, we picture the 24 whis-
Purrfect Words kers that flank the cat’s nose and
Each cat’s whiskers, or mouth in 4 rows on either side.
vibrissae, are arranged But those aren’t the only whiskers
in a pattern unique to the indi- your cat has. Take a close look at
vidual cat, much like our finger- your kitty, and you’ll see small sets
prints. Carnivores who grasp
their prey with their front paws
of whiskers above his eyes and on
have carpal vibrissae, which the outside edges of his cheeks. He
they use to sense their prey’s even has carpal vibrissae or “paw
condition and movements. whiskers” on the backs of his front
legs.
(Photo by Bruce Baillie)
Whiskers are one of the cat’s most important

sense organs.
Chapter 5: Understanding Your Cat 59
Whiskers are modified hairs, longer and thicker than ordinary

hairs, and are exquisitely sensitive. Their roots are set deep and
attached to muscle, so they can be moved backward and forward.
Cheek whiskers, which are as long as your cat is wide (unless
she’s obese), enable her to judge whether she can fit through small
spaces. Whiskers are also sensitive to temperature and air currents,
letting your cat sense accurately the position, size, and shape of
objects without seeing, hearing, or
touching them, and enabling her
MeowWOW
to operate confidently in low light.
A kitten’s whiskers are
Whiskers on the cheeks and legs fully operational at
tell a hunting cat much about her birth, long before his eyes and
prey’s status. Whiskers over the ears are functioning (see Chap-
eyes sense hazards and signal the ter 17).
cat to close her eyes.
Your cat’s whiskers can also give you information about your
cat’s mood. When he’s trying to gather information, as when hunt-
ing, he holds his whiskers tensely forward. He flattens them against
his cheeks when he’s defensive or angry and aims them up and for-
ward when he’s feeling aggressive. When he’s relaxed and lovey-
dovey, he points his whiskers forward and down.
Of course, whiskers are only one of your cat’s means for experi-
encing the sense of touch. Just as you communicate, gather infor-
mation, and take pleasure by touching and being touched, so does
your cat. From earliest kittenhood through old age (see Chapters 17
and 18), touching and being touched have emotional and physiologi-
cal effects on your cat. Studies have shown that petting an animal
slows people’s heart rates and lowers their blood pressure. And this
works both ways. When you stroke and massage your cat, her heart
rate will slow down, she’ll purr and relax, and she’ll clearly show
that she enjoys your efforts.
The Nose Knows

You have about 5 million odor-sensing cells in your nose. Your cat
has about 200 million. Your cat’s marvelous sense of smell helps him
hunt, alerts him to danger, facilitates communication with other
cats, and at times, undoubtedly gives him pleasure. Cats live in a
much richer world of scent than we do, and they use scent not only
to obtain information but to send it, too.
Cats, like all animals, have
Purrfect Words glands that excrete pheromones,
Pheromones are chemi- which communicate clear messages
cals produced by spe- to other members of the species.
cial glands to stimulate sexual
behaviors, aggression, and fear
Cats have scent glands on different
and avoidance reactions in ani- parts of their bodies, and the
mals of the same species. pheromones from different glands
send different messages.
Scent glands on the face excrete pheromones that have a calming
effect on cats. Cats often rub their faces on various objects, includ-
ing people, to leave their scent, and other cats will often sniff and
rub the same spot, turning it into a kitty bulletin board. Scent
glands on the paws mark objects when the cat scratches (see also
Chapters 9 and 10). Pheromones are also deposited in feces and
urine, the latter often being used to define the boundaries of a cat’s
territory and creating a sort of “this spot taken” sign for other cats.
MeowWOW
Ever see your cat sniff something, then open his mouth, curl
his lip, and wrinkle his nose? This is called flehming or the
flehman reaction. He’s using a specialized organ located
high on the roof of his mouth to evaluate a scent. Called the
Jacobson’s organ or vomeronasal organ, this small, specialized
sac is richly supplied with blood and nerves, and it collects scent
molecules, analyzes them, and sends the information to the
brain. Flehming can occur with various scents but is most com-
monly associated with a tomcat smelling the urine or genitals of
a female in heat.
Taste
The one sense in which you can claim superiority over your cat is
the sense of taste. Your cat has a mere 475 taste buds on the tip,
sides, and back of his tongue compared to some 9,000 you have on
yours! As a result, your cat cannot distinguish tastes the way you do.
So how did cats get so finicky about food? Feline fussiness is a
result of the cat’s keen sense of smell and inherited preference for
warm and, therefore, more fra-
grant food. Cold prey is more
likely to harbor dangerous Cat Nip
microorganisms than fresh prey, If your cat is finicky
about his food, try
so it makes sense for a carnivore warming it slightly to make it
eating in the wild to prefer fresh, more fragrant.
fragrant food.
Feline Vision
Comparatively speaking, cats have very large eyes for the size of
their heads—and excellent vision to match, although it’s a bit differ-
ent from ours. Cats really can’t see in complete darkness, but they
can see in light that’s only about one fifth the intensity humans
require. A cat’s visual acuity—the ability to distinguish objects from
one another—is only about 10 percent of ours, but she can perceive
even very slight movement much better than we can. Her color
vision is not as good as ours, though, because she has fewer cones—
specialized cells for seeing color. She probably sees purples, blues,
greens, and yellows, but reds, oranges, or browns probably appear to
her as shades of gray. It’s likely that the colors she sees are muted.
The eyeball is made up of several components that work to-
gether to produce what we see. The sclera, or white of the eye, is
composed of fibrous tissue richly supplied with blood vessels that
transport oxygen and nutrients throughout the eye. The cornea,
the clear outer covering of the eye, consists of transparent layers of
cells that allow light to enter the eye. The cat’s iris—the colored
part of the eye—includes the elongated pupil, which can close in

bright light or open very wide in low light, controlling the amount
of light that enters the eyes.
(Photo by Don Wilkie)
Your cat’s eyes give him excellent vision in low light and allow him
to perceive the slightest movement.
Have you ever seen your cat’s eyes glow in the beam of a flash-
light or in a photo taken with a flash? That glow is the reflection of
light from the tapedum lucidum, a layer of specialized cells located at
the back of the eye. Additional cells called rods, located at the back
of the eye in the retina, magnify light. Cats have about five times as
many rods in their eyes as we do. The tapetum lucidum and rods
work together to enable cats to see movement and objects in condi-
tions that would seem like pitch darkness to us. Because many of the
cat’s prey are nocturnal, the cat’s ability to see in low light is an
adaptation that allows him to hunt at night.
Feline Hearing
As any cat owner who’s ever tried to sneak treats out of a cupboard
knows, cats have superb hearing. People hear a range of about
8 octaves; cats hear about 10, picking up much higher frequencies

than we do, including the high-frequency sounds made by small
rodents or infant kittens. This high-frequency hearing also explains
why our cats sometimes appear to be listening to things in what we
perceive as silence.
Cats are not as sensitive to differences between tones as we are,
but they can locate the source of a sound and distinguish between
sounds coming from multiple sources much better than we can. The
sensitivity of the inner ear and the mobility of the outer ears, which
they can move independently to receive and process sound, help
them pick up on the slightest crinkle of the treat bag.
(Photo by Lisa Mory)
Even with his superb sense of hearing, don't be surprised if your cat
ignores your request to not play with your pencil!
Socialization: How Your Kitten Learns

to Be a Cat
Most people think of cats as loners rather than social creatures, per-
haps because among wild felines only lions live in organized family
groups or prides. But domestic cats do live in social groups—our
homes, our families, and sometimes groups of cats. Even highly
social animals like dogs and people have to be taught how to interact
appropriately within the group, so it’s not surprising that kittens
need to learn how to behave with their fellow creatures, too.
The process of learning to behave properly in a group and be
comfortable in many situations is called socialization and it involves
exposing the young animal to a wide variety of experiences. Careful
socialization will help your kitten grow into a cat who is calm and
accepting of new or different people, animals, and situations, and
who is a better companion overall.
The first year of a kitten’s life is a time of rapid learning, so
socialization should begin as early as possible. From between 4 to
14 weeks is the critical period when kittens are most receptive to
socialization. Ideally, the breeder will have handled the kitten exten-
sively from birth on (see Chapter 17), but whether or not that’s the
case, the kitten’s education should continue in her new home. The
more you include your kitten in your activities and expose her to
other people, nonthreatening pets, and activities, the more calm
and accepting she’ll be. She’ll also be very popular with your veteri-
narian and anyone else who has to handle her from time to time!
What specifically should you do to socialize your kitten?
˙ Take him with you on errands so he learns that the car isn’t
scary and doesn’t always end up at the vet. (Follow car safety
rules, of course. See Chapter 15.)
˙ When she’s fully vaccinated, teach your cat to accept a harness
and leash (see Chapter 14) and take her to an outdoor café, a
park for a walk or playtime, and other places.
˙ Introduce him to all kinds of cat-friendly people, young and
old, with and without glasses, hats, jewelry, beards, and hair!
This might sound silly, but cats can easily develop quirky
fears—say, of men with glasses—so the more varied the expo-
sure during socialization, the better.
˙ If your friends have cat-friendly dogs, introduce her to them
one at a time under controlled circumstances.
Talk to your kitten, too. He might not understand all the words
(although he will certainly learn to understand some of them), but
he will understand that you’re trying to communicate with him,
and he’ll respond to the sound of your voice and feel more secure
when he hears it.
Distinctly Feline Behaviors

Some behaviors seem supremely feline, and cats modify others to
make whatever they do seem feline-specific. Let’s take a closer look
at a few of these.
Purring
Purring—what could be more catlike? We think of purring as a sign
of contentment, and often it is. Kittens and queens purr during
nursing, and most cats purr when they’re petted or when enjoying
a familiar, safe, comfortable environment. Older cats sometimes purr
to signal friendliness to other cats.
But a purring cat isn’t always Cat Nip
a happy cat. Very often cats will Stress often causes cats
purr when they’re sick or injured to purr during veterinary
or when they’re under stress. exams, making it hard for the
Purring in these situations might vet to hear your kitty’s heart and
lungs through the stethoscope.
be an attempt for the cat to calm
Running water often stops a
herself, or perhaps the behavior is cat’s purring, so your vet might
akin to some people’s habit of turn on a tap when examining
nervous smiling and laughing. your cat.
Sleeping
Does your cat seem to sleep a lot? Good! Although a number of
individual and environmental factors affect an individual cat’s sleep
needs, it’s quite normal for a healthy cat to sleep 16 or so hours
a day—about twice the amount of time most mammals spend in
dreamland. And yes, cats undoubtedly do dream, as suggested by

their movements during sleep and, more scientifically, by brain
wave patterns similar to our own during deep, dream-filled sleep.
Changes in your cat’s sleep habits can indicate health problems,
especially in aging cats, so if your cat is sleeping more or less than
usual, contact your veterinarian.
Please don’t disturb this Sphynx—she

wants to take a cat nap.
Is Your Cat a Catnip Junkie?

Catnip, a plant in the mint (Lamiaceae) family, is a nonaddic-
tive “recreational drug” that causes a variety of apparently
pleasurable reactions in about 80 percent of cats over the age
of about 3 months. Studies suggest that catnip stimulates
pleasure centers in the brain, with no long-term or harmful
effects. Individual responses vary, but many cats presented
with fresh or dried catnip will

munch on it, roll and rub their MeowWOW
heads in it, have a brief “crazy cat” Kittens younger than
attack of running, spinning, and 8 weeks don’t respond
playing, and then mellow out into to catnip. Real interest in the
herb doesn’t usually begin until
a happy doze. The occasional cat
the kitten is about 12 weeks
becomes possessive or even aggres- old.
sive about her “stash.”
You can buy catnip toys, dried catnip, and sometimes fresh cat-
nip in most pet supply stores. You can also grow it, although watch
out: typical of most mints, true catnip (Nepeta cataria) is invasive and
can take over your garden in no time—unless area cats eat the
seedlings to the ground. To keep it under control, grow it in pots. A
close relative of catnip is cat mint (Nepeta mussini). I’ve grown itin
my garden for years. It’s not invasive, grows 12 to 18 inches high
with a 2-foot spread, and has lovely blue flowers most of the sum-
mer. Most cats seem to like it almost as well as catnip proper.
Climbing
Cats love high places. An elevated perch can be a place of safety—
when Roger and I got married and I moved in with my Labrador
Retriever, one of the resident cats spent 2 weeks on top of the
refrigerator whenever the dog was around. (We assume she came
down in the dead of the night to attend to necessities!)
Height also provides a strategic vantage point from which a cat
can watch what’s going on, often without being seen (Raja, my Lab,
always knew Kitty was somewhere in the kitchen but he never did
figure out exactly where she was). This behavior reminds us that our
cats are, at heart, predators.
(Photo by Maartje van Caspel)
Your cat’s urge to climb to high places

is part of her heritage as a hunter.
Comfort might also play a role in the cat’s desire to be up high.

Heat rises, so the high spots in a room are among the warmest.
They’re also out of the way, so the snoozing cat is less likely to be
disturbed. Finally (or maybe first in your cat’s mind), seeking the
higher places might literally be an instance of social climbing—the
dominant cat usually occupies the highest available perch.

˙ Learning to understand your cat’s feline traits will enhance
your relationship with him.
˙ Your cat’s senses equip her to survive as a skilled hunter.
˙ Socialization is an essential part of a kitten’s journey to adult-
hood.
˙ Some traits are quintessentially feline.
Chapter
6
Citizen Cat
In This Chapter
˙ Deciding whether to let the cat out
˙ Keeping peace with neighbors of all species
˙ Understanding the law
˙ Keeping your cat from getting lost
Our cats, like us, are members of a community beyond their own
doorsteps. Their behavior has far-reaching affects on people and
other animals, on the landscape, and on our legal and social envi-
ronments. Let’s see what we can do as cat owners to retain our priv-
ileges and honor our responsibilities.
Indoors or Out?
Which is better for a cat, staying indoors or being let outside? It’s
an emotional, never-ending debate, and I’ll admit to mixed feelings.
There’s no question that cats are much safer indoors. Their risk of
exposure to infectious diseases, parasites, attacks from other animals,
and abuse by people is greatly reduced, and few cats are killed by
cars in the house. But I’ve also watched my cats enjoy sunning
themselves on the patio or exploring the garden on a nice day. My
cat Malcolm even liked to “help” me plant flowers, despite the
inevitable bath afterward!
Cats might think life looks more fun outside the window, but
they live longer, healthier lives indoors.
You can compromise and give your cat some supervised fresh
air without letting him wander the neighborhood. For example,
take Felix out on a harness and leash (see Chapter 14). A leashed
cat should, of course, always be supervised by a responsible adult
because he can’t escape other animals and can easily get himself
hung up or tangled.
Cats can also be fenced in, believe it or not. Some people pur-
chase or build special “cat runs” that allow their cats some move-
ment outdoors but have a top and sides with secure bottom edges
to prevent escape. You can also modify conventional fencing to foil
felines. Smooth surfaces such as vinyl or fiberglass that provide no
toeholds for climbing can be effective, although it’s quite a challenge
Chapter 6: Citizen Cat 71
to block all escape routes—a determined cat can squeeze through a

remarkably small opening.
Electronic fences, conventionally used for dogs, are now available
for cats, although I’m not a fan of relying on electronic fences for
unsupervised animals. The “fences” rely on a mild shock transmitted
to a collar to discourage the animal from crossing a buried electrical
wire. Unfortunately, these fences are not completely reliable—a
motivated animal will cross the barrier, although he might not be
so eager to cross back into the yard. Unlike conventional fences,
electronic fences do not prevent other animals from entering the
yard, and that leaves your cat vulnerable to attack. That said, an
electronic fence might be a good option if you want your cat to be
outside with you but don’t want to chase him around or tie him.
Your Cat and Your Neighbors

Cats and dogs can be a source of friction among neighbors. Even
animal lovers can be driven to distraction by pets whose owners
don’t behave responsibly. Many cat owners mean no harm, but it’s
easy to forget that other people might not find our animals as
charming as we do.
Bird feeders are frequently a point of contention. To the people
who maintain them, they’re a source of entertainment, beauty, and
close contact with nature. To a cat,
they’re an irresistible source of MeowWOW
easy prey. A hunting cat is simply About 60 to 70 per-
doing what thousands of years of cent of prey killed by
evolution have programmed her to domestic cats are small mam-
do—she’s a predator, and all her mals; 20 to 30 percent are
birds; and the remainder are
instincts tell her to stalk and kill
amphibians, reptiles, and
small animals and birds. She’s not insects. Predation by domestic
“bad,” but she’s also not welcome cats has led to the extinction
in yards whose owners work to of at least eight island bird
attract birds. species.
Bodily waste is another problem. Frankly, I don’t know anyone

who wants to find cat poop in the garden or catch the odor of cat
pee on the breeze. It’s bad enough if the culprit is your own beloved
kitty, but it’s infuriating when someone else’s cat is leaving goodies
for you to unearth. All in all, neighborhood relations tend to remain
more neighborly when we keep our furry companions out of the
neighbors’ yards unless they’re invited.
Cats and Wildlife

One of the biggest problems caused by free-roaming cats is their
impact on wildlife. Unlike native predators, pet cats are protected
for the most part from disease, competition for food, starvation, and
lack of medical care. As a result, they often have a profound impact
not only on the prey species they hunt but also on the native preda-
tors whom they beat out for the prey.
Cats are more often infected with rabies than any other domes-
tic species, and free-roaming cats can spread fatal diseases to wild-
life. Even if your cat is vaccinated and healthy himself, he can carry
and transmit diseases against which wild animals have no protection.
Cats can also contract diseases and parasites spread by wild animals.
MeowWOW
Cats Indoors! The Campaign for Safer Birds and Cats was ini-
tiated by American Bird Conservancy (ABC) to educate cat
owners, decision-makers, and the general public about the
dangers free-roaming cats pose to their own health and well-
being, to birds and other wildlife, and to human health (see the
appendix).
Legal Issues
Most locales have laws affecting pet owners and ownership. Al-
though we often think of these as “dog laws,” many also apply to
cats. To protect your rights as a cat owner, be sure you know your
local laws and keep track of proposed laws. If you don’t like them,
let your voice be heard, and vote.
Confinement Laws
Laws requiring that pets be prevented from running free are com-
mon throughout the United States, and in some places the laws
cover cats. Cats shouldn’t be allowed to roam, especially in popu-
lated areas, for good reasons. Cats who wander are at risk for rabies,
distemper, and other diseases; infection; parasites; poisoning; injury;
and other disasters. They spread disease and kill wildlife. They’re
vulnerable to being hit by cars and to being attacked by dogs and
other animals. There are even some sick people who think it’s funny
to shoot, burn, or otherwise torture and kill cats.
Domestic cats aren’t wild animals who need their freedom. They
need the safety of home.
Licensing
Many areas require pet owners to purchase licenses for their cats
and dogs. Revenue from pet licenses often helps support local ani-
mal shelters, although it’s usually only a small portion of the annual
funding. A license attached to your cat’s collar improves your
chances of getting him back if he gets lost. Licenses also promote
rabies vaccinations because proof of vaccination is nearly always
required for a license.
Number Limits
Many communities limit the number of pets a person can own
legally. Such laws are touted by their supporters as a way to prevent
nuisances, but unfortunately, they don’t address the real problem—

irresponsible owners. One cat on the loose hunting songbirds and
pottying in the neighbors’ gardens is more of a nuisance than multi-
ple cats in the right home. A responsible person can manage quite a
few cats who are never a problem for neighbors—and a responsible
person knows her own limits.

Many cat owners—and cats!—agree that two are better than one.
Limits on pet ownership are very difficult to enforce, and they

encourage otherwise law-abiding pet owners to break the law. Laws
limiting pet ownership solely on the basis of numbers have been
challenged successfully in several communities around the country.
Most communities already have nuisance laws, pet licensing laws,
and confinement laws. Why not enforce those before passing new
ones?
Lost and Found

Cats can and do slip past even the most cautious owners to explore
the wide, wide world, and not infrequently the adventurer can’t find
her way back home. We’ve already seen that there are many dangers
waiting—cars, dangerous animals, vicious people, disease, etc. But in
reality, a lost cat is more likely to die by euthanasia in a shelter when
she is neither identified and returned to her home nor adopted into
a new one. Fortunately, you can take steps to protect your cat from
the unthinkable.
What to Do If Kitty Goes Missing

First, be sure your cat is really gone. Cats love hidey holes, and
more than one cat owner has searched frantically for a cat who is
watching (probably with great amusement) from a secret spot. So
before you panic, check these potential hiding places:
˙ Drawers in furniture and filing cabinets—even if you don’t
think Felix could get in—and the spaces behind and below
drawers as well.
˙ Bookcases, including upper shelves and behind books.
˙ Closets and cabinets. Cats can often open doors and might get
in behind drawers in cabinets.
˙ Inside, behind, under, and on top of appliances—washer, dryer,
refrigerator, oven, dishwasher.
˙ Inside walls, ceilings, floors, crawl spaces, air ducts—anywhere
there’s access. My cat Malcolm once slipped behind the drywall
through the opening for a toilet paper holder I was replacing.
˙ Upholstered furniture, mattresses, box springs—cats can get in
through amazingly tiny holes.
˙ Fireplaces, wood stoves, chimneys.
˙ Underneath, behind, and on top of furniture, including the
support under the footrests of recliners (off the floor).
˙ Inside boxes, suitcases, flower pots, and similar containers—
cats can open lids!
˙ Inside the car, up under the hood, and on top of tires if your
cat has access to the garage or outdoors.
˙ Anywhere else you can’t easily see into. I’ve seen my cats in
laundry baskets full of clothes, a doll house, even in a crate
with a dog!
(Photo courtesy of Dori Lysaght)
A cat can find all sorts of places to hide.
If you can’t find your cat anywhere around the house and you’re
sure she’s missing, you can do a number of things to improve the
chances that you’ll find her. Probably the single most important
thing is to plan ahead and provide your cat with identification so
anyone who finds her will know whom to call (see “Identification:
Don’t Leave Home Without It”).
Fast action is vital, because the longer your cat is missing, the
less likely it is that you’ll find him. Call all shelters and veterinarians
in your area to alert them. Describe your cat by sex, coat length, and
color. If your kitty is purebred, don’t assume that people will know
what the breed looks like. Give a full description using common
terms (for instance, “gray,” not “blue”). If possible, visit your area
shelters at least once a day. Shelters can be chaotic, and it’s very easy
for a single animal to be lost in the shuffle.
Make up posters with a color photo of your cat, the place and
time he was lost, and your telephone number. Post them around the
area where he disappeared, at grocery stores and convenience stores,
near schools, and in other well-traveled spots. Take copies to area
shelters and veterinarians—a picture posted where people see it will
be much more effective than a phoned-in description. Contact local
schools and ask if you can hang your posters there. Talk to children
in your neighborhood—they often know more than adults do about
animals hanging around. Run a lost ad in your local newspapers, and
hope you find your cat before the ad runs.
Identification: Don’t Leave Home Without It

Up-to-date tags—a name tag with your phone number as well as
your cat’s license and rabies tags—attached to your cat’s collar often
lead to the successful return of a lost pet. But collars and tags can
get lost or be removed, so a form of permanent identification is a
good idea not only as a way for people to find you after finding your
cat but also as proof that this cat is indeed yours.
The best form of permanent identification for a cat is a micro-
chip (technically known as a transponder) implanted over the shoul-
der blades by means of a syringe. A microchip is a tiny electronic
device about the size and shape of a grain of rice that transmits
a numeric code unique to the individual animal. The code corre-
sponds to contact information registered to a database such as
AVID and HomeAgain. Unlike transponders used to track wild
animals, microchips used to identify pets can be read only by mov-
ing a scanning device over the animal at close range.
Some shelters, rescuers, and breeders microchip their cats before
releasing them to new homes. If that’s the case with your new cat, be
sure to find out how to transfer the microchip registration to your
name. Some breeders and groups require that they remain on the
registration as backup contacts, but even so, you need to have your
own information registered with the database. You don’t want to
spend a long weekend worrying and looking for your cat because
the shelter his microchip is registered to is closed until Monday!
If your cat does not have a microchip, you can get one for her
through her veterinarian or your local animal shelter. Be sure you
register with the appropriate
database because many microchips
Cat Nip
are registered to the veterinarian
Have your vet scan
your cat when you take or shelter that purchased them
him in for check-ups to be sure from the supplier. If you move,
the microchip is working. be sure to update your informa-
tion.
A number of companies now offer microchips. In the United
States, the two major suppliers are AVID (American Veterinary
Identification Devices; 1-800-336-AVID or www.avidid.com) and
HomeAgain (1-800-2FIND-PET or www.akc.org and click on
Companion Animal Recovery). AVID maintains its own database.
HomeAgain microchips are registered with the Companion Animal
Recovery Program of the American Kennel Club (AKC)—and, yes,
cats are eligible! For more information, ask your vet or area shelter,
or contact the companies directly.

˙ Indoor cats tend to live longer, healthier lives.
˙ Cats on the loose play havoc with neighborly relations and
with wildlife.
˙ Animal laws apply to cats, too.
˙ Proper identification and quick action can bring a lost cat
home.
Part
3 The Care and Feeding

of Felis catus
Cats might project a self-sufficient image, but they really do need
a little help from their human friends to be at their best as compan-
ions. In Part 3, I tell you about some of the things you can do to
keep your cat healthy and happy from the inside out.
I also show you how you can help your cat with his personal
hygiene so his coat, skin, ears, claws, and teeth stay in beautiful
condition. I explain how good nutrition contributes to your cat’s
sound health, long life, social skills, and emotional well-being.
Then I cover the basics of teaching your cat what he needs to
know to live successfully with people and other pets. Finally, I tell
you why common behavioral problems sometimes develop and sug-
gest ways to get your cat back on the good-behavior track.
(Photo courtesy of Andy and Gina Darnell)

Chapter
7
The Well-Groomed Feline
In This Chapter
˙ Understanding feline grooming behaviors
˙ Choosing and using the right brushes and combs for your cat
˙ Bathing your cat
˙ Caring for your cat’s ears, teeth, and claws
Cats have a well-founded reputation for cleanliness. Most cats

groom themselves regularly and keep themselves as clean and tidy
as possible, but they also need a little help from their friends—
that’s you.
Brushing helps keep shed cat hair under control and is especially
important for longhaired cats who simply can’t keep their fur free
of tangles and mats on their own. Cats also need help to keep their
ears clean and healthy, their teeth and gums in good condition, and
their claws safely trimmed.
Mutual grooming is a common activity between cats who like
each other. Grooming sessions help develop and perpetuate the
bond between cats, and they can enhance your own bond with your
82 Part 3: The Care and Feeding of Felis catus
cat while helping to keep him looking and feeling his best. If you
have a kitten, begin with short daily grooming sessions. If you have
an older cat who isn’t used to being brushed, start slowly—a few
brush strokes and lots of petting and soft talk will reassure him.
Most cats enjoy having the tops of their necks and heads brushed,
so start there, slowly moving to other areas. You can do a lot of
grooming with your cat on your lap, or you can put him on a table
covered with a towel or rubber mat for traction.
(Photo by Nick Axelis)
Most cats are fastidious about their

personal grooming.
Caring for Your Cat’s Coat and Skin

Healthy skin and coat begin with good nutrition (see Chapter 8) and
parasite control (see Chapter 11), but good grooming helps, too.
With regular brushing or combing and perhaps an occasional bath,
your cat will be the best-coiffured feline in the neighborhood.
Chapter 7: The Well-Groomed Feline 83
Brushing and Combing

While brushing is essential for a longhaired cat to remove tangles
and prevent matting, it’s good for all cats. Brushing removes a lot
of hair before it falls on your furniture and carpets or is ingested by
your cat and converted to a hairball. The close attention you give
“the outer cat” while grooming can also mean early detection of
lumps, bumps, sores, or parasites or changes in skin or coat that
could indicate a developing health problem.
You’ll find lots of brushes, combs, and other grooming gadgets
at your pet supply store, and the right tools make the job a lot easier.
For long, thick fur, a pin brush works well. If your cat has long, silky
fur, a soft-bristle brush will do the job. A rubber brush is good for
removing hair from short coats. Metal or Teflon coated combs are
useful for the finishing touches, especially on long coats. A flea
comb, which has small, very closely spaced teeth, is useful if you
suspect that your cat has passengers (see also Chapter 11).
Cat Nip
Hairballs, formed of indigestible hair in the cat’s stomach,
can cause vomiting, constipation, and loss of appetite. Cats
usually cough them up, but in severe cases, hairballs must be
removed surgically. You can prevent or reduce the incidence of
hairballs in your cat by grooming him regularly, especially when
he’s shedding, and by feeding him a hairball-control cat food. If
the problem is severe or frequent, speak to your veterinarian.
Begin grooming at the front of your cat, lifting small sections

of hair with the brush and brushing them forward, toward Felix’s
head. Be sure you pick up the hair at skin level—without poking
your cat’s skin—to prevent matting of undercoat hair near the skin.
Work your way back to the tail, one side at a time. Brushing against
the hair growth may excite your cat, so go slowly, and if necessary
groom him in small sections at a time until he gets used to the pro-
cedure. After the hair has been brushed forward, beginning at the
rear, brush sections of hair back into the right direction. Repeat on
the other side. Don’t forget his chest and tail and, when your cat is
comfortable with being groomed, his belly. Follow the brushing
with a metal or Teflon-coated comb if you like.
Brushing a completely dry
Cat Nip coat can create static electricity
When humidity is low, and can also break hair. If your cat
your cat might turn into will allow it, lightly mist his fur
a walking static electricity with water from a spray bottle
transmitter—quite a shocking (one spritz of fine mist per area is
development for both of you!
If that happens, consider using
plenty) before brushing. Most cats
a humidifier to add moisture to won’t allow such rude behavior on
your home. your part. If this sounds like your
cat, spray the brush instead.
Matted fur tends to hold moisture and skin oil, which can lead
to skin inflammations and provide nesting places for fleas and other
parasites. Mats can be very hard to remove, and it’s all too easy to
cut skin when trying to cut them loose. If your cat’s fur develops
mats, you might want to take her to a groomer to have them
removed. Once his coat is free of mats, regular brushing will help
keep it that way.
Can You Bathe a Cat?

Most cats don’t need to be bathed very often, but there are times
when a bath is in order. My cat Malcolm used to “help” me in the
garden by digging and rolling in the mud. (I wonder if it was be-
cause he grew up with a Labrador Retriever?) Luckily, he didn’t
mind having a bath afterward. Show cats are bathed regularly as they
prepare for competition, and they learn from kittenhood to accept
water, shampoo, and dryer as part of the routine. So yes, you can
bathe a cat and live to tell about it.
Kitty bathing is essential at times for health reasons. Baths can
be helpful for cat lovers who are allergic to cats (see Chapter 2).
If your cat is exposed to a toxic substance—say she’s been on grass

treated with lawn chemicals or she’s gotten motor oil on her fur—
a bath is imperative to keep her from ingesting the poison as she
cleans herself. We once had a major flea invasion following a major
mouse invasion, so everyone got bathed. If you take in a stray or
bring home a shelter cat, she might need a freshening up. All in all,
it’s good to know how to go about bathing a cat (hilarious Internet
versions of cat bathing aside).
Preparation will go a long way toward making Felix’s bath go
smoothly. Brush him before you bathe him. This is especially impor-
tant with long coats. You want to remove tangles and mats, because
once they’re wet, they’re nearly impossible to comb out. Trim his
claws, too (see “Cat Pedicures”)—the less well armed he is, the bet-
ter for you.
Choose a shampoo formulated
especially for cats. The pH of our Cat Nip
skin is different from a cat’s, and I’ve found that diluting
human shampoos will dry out your all pet shampoos to
half to two thirds their normal
cat’s skin and coat, leaving the skin
strength makes them easier to
susceptible to irritation and possi- apply and easier to rinse out
ble infection. Use shampoo spar- without impairing their cleansing
ingly. Read the directions. Some ability. It also saves money!
pet shampoos are concentrated and
need to be diluted.
Special shampoos are available for special purposes. No-rinse
shampoos go on wet but don’t need to be rinsed out, which can be
handy for quick clean-ups. Dry cat shampoos can be useful if you
don’t want to wet the cat, and some are effective for treating natu-
rally oily skin. Dawn dish detergent is said to be effective for remov-
ing petroleum products from fur—it’s often used to clean up victims
of oil spills. It might be drying, though, so follow up with a moistur-
izing conditioner. There are also special shampoos said to help alle-
viate human allergies. They tend to be pricey, though, so you might
want to try regular cat shampoos first.
Be sure all your supplies are close at hand before you begin. You
will need the following items:
˙ Shampoo
˙ One or two towels
˙ An unbreakable container for rinsing if no sprayer is available
˙ A mat or screen for the bottom of the tub (for kitty traction)
The kitchen sink will work for all but the largest cat and is easier
on your back than bending over a bathtub. Place a towel or bath mat
on the bottom for traction. I’ve heard that a piece of metal screen
on top of the towel or mat gives the cat a place to cling to with his
claws. I’ve never tried it, but it might be worth a shot if your cat is
prone to fighting in the bath. Pet supply stores also carry “bath
sacks” that envelope the cat’s body up to the neck, allowing you to
bathe her through the sack while maintaining control.
Use warm—not hot!—water. A spray attachment makes it easier
to wet and rinse your cat. As an alternative, fill a pressurized garden
sprayer (the ordinary hand-pump type) with warm water. Be sure to
use a sprayer that has never been used for any toxic chemicals. Or
use an unbreakable cup to pour rinse water over your cat.
Get a firm grip on your cat’s scruff, wet her thoroughly, apply
shampoo, and work it gently through her fur. Be very careful not to
get water in her ears or soap in her eyes. Rinse thoroughly, and
check the tricky spots—belly, groin, and armpits—for remaining
soap. You shouldn’t feel any “slimy” spots after rinsing.
When your cat is well rinsed, squeeze excess water from his fur,
then wrap him in a towel. I like to use one towel for the initial wrap,
to absorb the bulk of the water and to secure the cat while he settles
down, then switch to a second towel and—keeping a firm grip—
gently rub to remove as much water as possible. Give your cat a
special treat before you release him—reward him for being held, not
for getting away.
You can use a hair dryer set on low or cool (never hot) to dry
him further if your cat will allow it. If your cat has long hair, brush
it while it’s still damp. And if your cat is an indoor/outdoor kitty,
keep him inside until he’s completely dry.
(Photo courtesy of Barbara Zakrzewski)

Most cats don’t take to water quite as easily as Lacey here, but you can give a
cat a bath when necessary.
Healthy Ears
Good ear care is one of the most overlooked areas of cat care, but
it is important to your cat’s health. Weekly ear checks and cleaning
when necessary will prevent common problems like ear mites, aller-
gies, and bacterial, fungal, and yeast infections from taking hold.
Most cats tolerate ear cleanings if you make them part of the
regular grooming routine. Try to keep the experience positive, and
reward cooperation with a small treat.
To see into the ear, hold the tip between your thumb and fore-
finger and gently roll it outward to reveal the inner part of the ear.
Check for signs of trouble. A small amount of light brown wax is
normal, but excessive discharge (especially black, red, or green-

yellow) or redness indicates a problem. If the ear appears healthy,
gently wipe the inside with a pad soaked in ear cleanser, which is
available from your vet or pet supply store. Never insert a Q-tip
or anything else into the ear canal—you could cause serious, perma-
nent damage.
If the ear appears to be red and sore, if you see a lot of dis-
charge, or if your cat is scratching her ears and shaking her head
a lot, take her to the vet. Ear problems often are hard to diagnose
without a microscopic examination of the discharge, and treating
for the wrong thing won’t help and might even hurt.
Kitty Dental Hygiene

Proper dental care should also be a regular part of your program for
keeping your cat healthy and happy. Cats are prone to the same den-
tal problems as their owners—broken teeth, gum disease, abscesses,
decay, and pain—which not only cause discomfort but also can con-
tribute to behavior problems. A good dental health program can
prolong your cat’s life, and freedom from pain can only help his dis-
position.
Periodontal (gum) disease is extremely common in small ani-
mals. From the time a kitten starts eating solid food, bacteria and
food particles are deposited along the gum line and under the gums.
These deposits form plaque. If not removed, plaque hardens into
calculus and eventually causes serious problems. Most of us know
how painful dental problems can be, but your cat will likely suffer
in silence until the disease is quite far advanced. Fortunately, a pro-
gram of preventive dental care can keep your cat’s mouth healthy.
You can help maintain your kitty’s dental health in several ways.
Feeding high-quality dry food begins the process (see Chapter 8).
You can also ask your vet to demonstrate a basic oral exam, which
you can do on a regular basis to spot problems early. Essentially, you
will carefully and gently check your cat’s mouth for signs of trouble,
including inflamed or bleeding gums; loose, broken, discolored, or
“dirty” teeth; bad breath; or excessive drooling during the exam or
at other times.
Hissss
Offensive breath indicates an underlying problem. Here are
some possible causes of bad breath in adult cats:
˙ Diet. Some foods, especially canned and semi-moist
foods, leave traces on the teeth, where bacteria collect
and create bad breath. A change of food sometimes
freshens the breath. If not, see your veterinarian.
˙ Gingivitis. Unless your cat is a teething kitten, red puffy
gums indicate infection. Your cat needs to see the vet.
˙ Abscessed tooth. Cats rarely complain of tooth pain, but
an infection or abscess requires veterinary attention to pre-
vent serious complications.
See also “Teething” in Chapter 17.
Brushing Felix’s Teeth

Tooth brushing will help maintain your cat’s dental health. Ideally,
our cats should have their teeth brushed every day, but realistically,
most of us will brush our cats’ teeth at most two or three times a
week, which is much better than not brushing at all.
Special tooth brushes are available for cats, or you can use
a small child’s toothbrush with soft bristles. Some people prefer rub-
ber “brushes” that fit over the fin-
gertip or special tooth-cleaning Hissss
pads, both available from pet sup- Don’t use human tooth-
ply stores and veterinarians, who paste or baking soda on
also carry toothpastes formulated your cat. They can pose health
for cats. risks if swallowed, and most
cats don’t like the taste.
Begin with very short sessions. Don’t introduce the brush at

first, but put a little of the kitty toothpaste on your finger and run
it briefly along your cat’s teeth and gums. Pet your cat and praise
him; then release him. Slowly increase the amount of time you
spend doing this until you can rub the outer surfaces of all his teeth,
then introduce the brush. (Cats don’t usually develop periodontal
problems on the inner edges of their teeth and gums because their
tongues keep those surfaces cleaner.) You might need to reduce the
time you spend with the brush at first until Felix is used to the bris-
tles. Be sure to keep sessions happy, and cuddle or play with your cat
after the tooth cleaning to help him look forward to this social time.
“Felix, the Dentist Will See You Now”

Your cat should also have periodic dental exams during which your
veterinarian will look for signs of gum disease, loose or broken
teeth, discolored teeth, or signs of discomfort. She will check your
cat’s tongue and other oral tissues for abnormalities, and she might
use a periodontal probe to check for symptoms of gum disease.
These procedures can be done during a regular examination.
Other procedures might require your cat to be anesthetized.
Because some tooth problems occur below the gum line, your vet
might recommend full-mouth or partial x-rays. Your cat might
also need thorough periodic tooth cleanings to remove built-up
plaque and tartar, or he might occasionally need to have a tooth
removed. Although there are always risks associated with anesthesia,
new, short-acting injectable anesthetics are much safer than older
anesthetics. Ask your vet what kind of anesthetic she uses, how
easy it is to reverse, and how she will monitor your cat while under
anesthesia.
How often should your cat have a professional dental exam?
That depends on his age. A kitten should have an oral exam as early
as possible, with follow-ups at each vaccination appointment until
he’s about 4 months old. At about 6 months, he should be checked
again to be sure his bite is okay and to ensure that all his baby teeth
have fallen out. Occasionally baby teeth are retained, causing the
permanent teeth to come in crooked. If that happens, your vet will
need to pull the baby tooth.
(Photo by Diane Diederich)
Regular dental care is vital to your

cat’s overall health as well as to
those pearly whites.
From 6 months to about 3 years of age, most cats need only an

annual dental exam during their regular yearly vet visit unless you
notice a problem. From 3 or 4 years until about 6 or 7, most cats
still require only a yearly exam, especially if you practice home
dental care.
Just like people, though, cats vary, and if your cat is prone to
plaque buildup or other problems, your vet might recommend oral
exams every 6 months. In later life—usually from 7 years on—most
cats should have dental exams every 6 months (see also Chapter 18).
Kitty Claws
Cats have retractable claws. When the cat is relaxed, walking, or
playing gently, the sharp claw is retracted into a sheath. When the
cat needs a weapon or a tool, she unsheaths her curved claws by
extending them forward and down.
Claws, like our finger- or toenails, are constantly growing.
Newly grown claws are covered by a protective outer layer that the
cat removes by “sharpening” his claws, preferably on his scratching
post (see Chapter 9). You might find bits of this protective layer
stuck to Felix’s scratching post or on the floor. (I once pulled one
out of the nose of a pushy puppy!)
Long, sharp claws can be a problem for a house cat. They can
scratch people and other pets, obviously, and even a playful clawing
hurts. Long claws can also catch accidentally on carpets, upholstery,
and clothing, and in a cat who hasn’t been trained to confine his
scratching to a post made for that purpose, claws can be destructive.
Fortunately, claws can be managed. Let’s look at three common
means of keeping kitty claws under control.
Declawing
First is my least favorite method of claw control—declawing. De-
clawing, technically known as onychectomy, is the surgical removal
of the claw and surrounding tissue and sometimes the first joint of
the toe as well. With proper training, most cats can be taught to
scratch only “legal” items, such as scratching posts, making declaw-
ing unnecessary. Declawing is the easy (or lazy) way out of training
for owners but is painful for the cat. Many veterinarians refuse to
declaw, and the procedure is now illegal in some countries.
Besides the pain, the declawed cat suffers other disadvantages.
He’s much less able to defend himself, so should never be outdoors
unsupervised. Some cats resort to biting or growling when they find
themselves clawless (see Chapters 9 and 10).
Many declawed cats will still display scratching behavior as they

scent-mark territory with scent pads on the pads of their paws, al-
though they can no longer shred
things. The only cat I would MeowWOW
declaw would be the absolutely If you have a kitten you
incorrigible ripper-upper—and intend to show, do not
then only after trying a serious have him declawed. Show cats
training program (see Chapter 10). must have their claws.
Cat Pedicures
One alternative to declawing is weekly claw trimming. If you have
a kitten, start right away to teach her to accept having her paws han-
dled and claws trimmed. But even if your cat is older, she can learn
that a pedicure is no big deal.
Begin by getting your cat used to having her paws handled. At
first, don’t try to trim her claws, just handle her paws whenever she’s
sitting quietly on your lap. Gently hold and massage each paw. With
your index finger on the pad and your thumb on top of her paw,
press gently to “pop” the claws out of the sheaths.
When Kitty is comfortable having her paws handled, it’s time
to trim. Use a nail clipper made for cats, and be sure the blades are
sharp for a clean cut—dull blades
crush the nail. Nail clippers come
Cat Nip
in two styles, guillotine and scis-
If you’re uncertain
sor. Some people prefer one style about how to clip your
over the other, but they both work cat’s claws, ask your veterinar-
just fine. If your cat isn’t willing to ian, groomer, or breeder to
be very still during the process, try show you.
wrapping her snuggly in a towel,
freeing just one paw at a time.
The portion of the claw that is trimmed is dead, like our nails,
so trimming correctly doesn’t hurt. But inside each claw is the quick,
the live center full of blood and nerves. If you cut the claw too short
and hit the quick, your cat will bleed and experience pain, which will
make him less than eager for the next trimming. Fortunately, most
cats’ claws lack pigment, so you can see the quick, especially if you
hold the paw so there’s light behind it. The quick will appear darker
than the rest of the nail and sometimes has a pink tinge.
All you really need to remove is the sharp tip of the nail, but in
any case, always avoid cutting into the live quick. When in doubt,
cut less. If you do accidentally cut too short and draw blood, you
can usually stop it quickly by dipping the claw in styptic powder
(available from veterinarians, pet supply stores, or the shaving sec-
tion of many other stores) or cornstarch. In the unlikely event that
the bleeding continues for more than 10 minutes or if the blood is
spurting, call your vet.
Trim all claws on the front feet, including the dew claws (found
on the inside of the front legs above the feet). Rear claws don’t need
to be trimmed as often, if ever. They aren’t as sharp as the front
ones, and they grow more slowly.
Claw Covers
Another alternative to declawing is to have soft plastic covers
applied to your cat’s claws about once a month. Your vet or a
groomer can apply them, or you can do it yourself.
Claw covers can be useful for preventing destructive scratching
while training or retraining appropriate behavior (see Chapters 9
and 10). A set lasts about a month, and if they’re properly applied,
your cat won’t be able to remove them.

˙ Grooming strengthens your bond with your cat and makes him
look his best.
˙ The right tools make grooming easier—for both of you.
˙ You can bathe your cat and live to tell about it.
˙ Regular care will keep your cat’s ears, teeth, and claws healthy.
Chapter
8
Feeding Your Cat
In This Chapter
˙ Understanding basic feline nutrition
˙ Choosing the right commercial cat food for your kitty
˙ Considering alternative diets
˙ Controlling obesity
The choice of diets available for cats is astonishing. Walk through

the pet food isle of any pet supply or grocery store, and you’ll find
canned foods, dry foods, semi-moist foods, foods for kittens and
“senior” cats, fat cats, healthy cats, indoor cats, and cats with spe-
cific problems. If that’s not a full-enough pantry for you, you can
also find information for homemade and natural diets galore on the
Internet and in books. (And no matter what you choose to feed your
cat, someone’s bound to tell you what’s wrong with that diet.)
It's true that health and behavior problems, from itchy skin to
flatulence to hyperactivity, are often linked to nutritional factors and
food allergies. So how can you be sure you’re feeding your cat
a healthful diet? Let’s sniff out the facts about feline nutrition.
Cats Are What They Eat

Food is composed of protein, fats, and carbohydrates, as well as vita-
mins, minerals, some other nutrients, and water. All foods provide
nutrition, but the value of a specific food to a particular type of ani-
mal depends on that animal’s nutritional needs and the ability of the
animal’s digestive system to process that type of food.
Cats are carnivores. The bulk of their diet in the wild is meat,
and their teeth are designed for shearing, not for chewing up veg-
etable matter. The cat’s digestive tract processes meat proteins effi-
ciently and doesn’t break down the tough cellulose walls of vegetable
matter.
Still, cats need to eat some vegetable matter. Wild felines eat
the stomachs and intestines of their prey, including the contents,
which are partially digested, making the nutrients available to the
cat. Domestic cats need to have their veggies cooked to break down
the cellulose. Cats also like to munch on greens, and many people
grow grass to satisfy their cats’ munchies—and save their house-
plants!
Cat Nip
Greens such as bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass; Japanese barn-
yard millet; oats; rye (beware of ergot, a hallucinogenic fun-
gus); sprouts (alfalfa or bean), in small amounts; and wheat
are easy to grow and provide safe munching, if your cat is so
inclined. Avoid seeds treated with herbicides or insecticides,
though.
Now let’s look at the nutrients that make up food and provide
for your kitty’s good health:
˙ Proteins are composed of amino acids and are found in high
concentrations in meat, fish, poultry, milk, cheese, yogurt, fish-
meal, and eggs. Soybeans and dehydrated plant extracts also
Chapter 8: Feeding Your Cat 97
have high protein content,

although plant proteins are Purrfect Words
incomplete. Your cat’s activity Incomplete proteins
lack some amino acids
level, age, and health status as that cats (and many other ani-
well as the digestibility of the mals) require. Most plants pro-
food determine his specific vide incomplete proteins.
protein requirements.
˙ Fats cushion the internal
organs, insulate against cold, Hissss
provide energy, and help Cats require a lot more fat
transport vitamins and other and protein than dogs do,
nutrients to the organs. Fat so cat food and dog food are
also makes food taste better. not interchangeable. Sneaking
a little food from the dog’s bowl
Meats, milk, butter, and veg- every now and then won’t hurt
etable oils are rich sources of your cat, but a long-term diet of
fats. Dietary fat in proper dog food will cause severe mal-
amounts is vital for good nutrition in a cat.
health, but in excess, it will
provide energy but won’t provide the protein, vitamins, and
minerals essential for long-term health. Because fat is cheaper
than protein, some lower-quality cat foods are high in fat.
˙ Vitamins are chemical compounds that support good health
in many ways. High-quality cat foods provide vitamins in the
proper amounts, but light, heat, moisture, and rancidity can
destroy vitamins, so it’s important to store food properly and
to use it before its expiration date.
˙ Minerals strengthen bones and cell tissue and help organs
function properly. High-quality cat foods provide minerals in
proper balance.
˙ Water is vital. Cats get water directly from drinking and indi-
rectly from food. Your cat should have access to clean water at
all times.
(Photo by Lisa Mory)

This Persian seems to be enjoying his
dinner.
How can you tell if your cat’s diet is healthful? If your cat is well
covered with flesh but not overweight, is active and alert as appro-
priate for her age, and has healthy skin and coat, her diet is probably
fine. If not, make an appointment with your vet to have your cat
examined, read the rest of this chapter, and consider changing your
cat’s diet.
Commercial Cat Foods

Commercial cat foods are available in mind-numbing variety. There
are foods for kittens, adult cats, senior cats, cats with tartar, fat cats,
cats with allergies … Foods contain fish, chicken, turkey, beef, lamb,
duck, and venison. Foods come dry, semi-moist, canned, and frozen.
And because cat foods are not all created equal, it’s important to
know what you’re buying. Although many high-quality foods cost
more per pound than poorer foods, they might actually cost
the same or less per feeding because you feed less for the same
nutrition.
What’s “better” about better-quality foods? First, they contain

higher-quality ingredients used and less filler, so they are nutrition-
ally more dense. Your cat eats less
and, therefore, eliminates less Hissss
(no small thing if you’re in charge A vegetarian diet is
of the litter box!). Most higher- not suitable for cats be-
quality foods contain no dyes, cause cats require taurine, an
amino acid found in meat.
which have been linked to aller-
(Trace amounts of taurine are
gies and other health problems found in some vegetable
and are the main reason cat vomit sources but in insufficient
is notorious for staining. A better amounts to support feline
diet also makes for better skin, health.) Taurine deficiency
causes blindness and can
coat, and better overall health, and
cause fatal cardiomyopathy.
a more pleasant companion all
around.
Now let’s look at some of the other choices you have in com-
mercial cat foods:
˙ Dry foods. Dry food, also known as “kibble,” is easy to store
and feed and is readily available in a wide range of qualities,
prices, and ingredients. Many cat owners find that a diet of dry
food helps keep their cat’s teeth cleaner because the food is less
likely to cling to teeth and gums and the hard nuggets scrape
tartar from the teeth when the cat chews. Stools are firmer,
too, making litter box cleanup easier. Dry food tends to cost
less than moist and wet foods and doesn’t spoil as quickly or
have as strong an odor.
˙ Semi-moist foods. Semi-moist cat foods are essentially soft
kibble. They tend to be more expensive than kibble, and they
don’t help with tartar control. Semi-moist foods usually contain
dyes to make them more appealing to people (cats don’t care).
Finally, preservatives used in some moist foods have been
linked to allergies and other problems in cats.
˙ Wet foods. Wet, or canned, foods are expensive, and the extra
money essentially pays for water and a can. For cats with cer-
tain medical conditions, particularly those who need to con-
sume more water, good canned foods are beneficial. On the
other hand, a diet of canned food only usually leads to tartar
buildup, flatulence, bad breath, and soft, strong-smelling stools.
Canned food also attracts insects and spoils quickly, so dishes
need to be washed thoroughly after every meal. For healthy
cats and their owners, canned foods don’t offer much benefit
except perhaps as a special treat in small amounts.
˙ Treats. Most cat owners like to give their cats special treats
from time to time as rewards in training (see Chapters 9, 10,
and 14) or “just because.” Given in reasonable amounts, treats
are fine, but they shouldn’t take the place of your cat’s normal,
balanced diet. When selecting treats, use the same basic guide-
lines as for foods—try to find nutritionally balanced treats and
avoid those that contain dyes and other chemicals.
Cat Nip
If you want to give your cat an occasional dairy treat, make
it cream. Most adult cats are lactose intolerant, and milk will
give them diarrhea. Cream is lower in lactose, and most cats
like and tolerate the butterfat. Just remember that cream also has
lots of calories, so keep servings small and infrequent.
Commercial cat foods are convenient, and the good ones pro-
vide properly balanced nutrition. However, some products are made
of questionable food sources as well as preservatives, dyes, and other
chemicals that have been linked to serious health problems. Be a
smart shopper, and choose a cat food with high-quality ingredients.
You’ll save money in the long run and have a healthier cat (see the
appendix for sources of more information on feline nutrition and cat
foods).
(Photo courtesy of Julie Bucher)

Cats and dogs have different nutritional needs—no
matter what this kitten thinks!
Homemade and Raw Diets

You can design a homemade diet that will provide your cat with
excellent nutrition. The major advantage of a homemade diet is that
you know what your cat is eating. But there are also some disadvan-
tages. On a practical level, shopping and preparing the food takes
time, and you need room to store the ingredients. On a more funda-
mental level, it’s important to feed a diet that includes all the nutri-
ents essential to your cat’s good health. Although he doesn’t have to
have a completely balanced diet every day, over the course of a week
or so, he must get the proper balance of protein, essential fatty
acids, minerals, and vitamins to stay healthy.
Raw diets—also known as Biologically Appropriate Raw Food
(B.A.R.F.) diets, have become popular over the past couple of
decades. Dr. Ian Billinghurst, an Australian veterinarian and a lead-
ing proponent of “B.A.R.F.ing,” has written extensively about the
advantages of the diet, and I can’t do his arguments justice here.
If you’re interested in learning more, your public library probably

has some of his work.
Hissss
There’s an abundance of bad advice floating around about
homemade and raw diets, especially on the Internet. Be sure
you base your cat’s diet on reliable information from a quali-
fied expert on feline nutrition (see the appendix). Also be aware
that cooked bones splinter when they break and can perforate
your kitty’s intestines. Sometimes the damage can be repaired,
but not always, and death from a perforated intestine is very
painful. Never give your cat cooked bones, and keep the
garbage safely out of Felix’s reach.
Essentially, the B.A.R.F. diet for cats consists of what Billing-

hurst calls “raw meaty bones” (chicken, turkey, or duck wings, car-
casses and necks, ox tails, and similar pieces), offal (liver, heart,
kidneys, and brain), small amounts of fruit and vegetables, and other
ingredients.
Although some “B.A.R.F.ers” are fanatical about the benefits
of feeding raw (and correspondingly critical of commercial diets),
feeding this way poses many of the same disadvantages as feeding
a cooked homemade diet.
(Photo courtesy of Margaret Smith)
This Abyssinian grandmother is obviously not in the mood

to cook.
Safe storage and handling of raw meats are also critical to pre-
vent salmonella poisoning in the human family members. A healthy
cat’s intestines are designed to handle bacteria, but our intestines
aren’t so tough. Whoever prepares the raw meat must be fastidious
about cleaning all surfaces, cutting boards, knives, and plates the
meat touches, and about hand washing. Many “B.A.R.F.ers” wear
disposable plastic gloves when preparing meals. For more informa-
tion, see the appendix.
Fat Cats: The Importance of Weight Control

Excess weight contributes to many serious health problems and
shortens life, in cats as in people. Except in very rare cases, over-
weight is the result of overeating. Several factors determine the
amount of food your kitten or cat needs:
˙ Activity level. If your kitty runs and leaps and plays by the
hour, he’ll need more food than if he’s a couch potato.
˙ Quality of food. The nutritional value and calories in cat
foods and homemade diets vary. The more nutritionally dense
the food, the less your kitty needs to eat.
˙ Individual variation. Every cat is an individual with his own
looks, personality, and nutritional needs. Two kittens from the
same litter can have different nutritional needs even if their
activity levels are similar.
Hissss
Dietary supplements might seem to be a good way to insure
your cat’s proper nutrition, but excess minerals in the diet can
cause serious problems, and overdoses of some vitamins,
especially A and D, are toxic. You really can give your kitty too
much of a good thing. Ask your vet before supplementing your
kitty’s diet.
In an ideal world, your cat will stay at a proper weight through-

out his life. Realistically, he might pack on some extra fat as time
goes by. If your cat starts to get fat (or too thin), adjust his food por-
tions. If you feed a commercial cat food, be aware that the recom-
mended daily serving on the bag or can is a starting point only, and
adjust the amount you feed to your cat’s needs. If you’re not sure his
weight is appropriate, ask your vet.
(Photo courtesy of Ronda Wells, M.D.)
Mac had a bit too much food in his previous home, but now he’s adjusting to
controlled portions.
If your cat is fat, he needs to consume fewer calories. If you free

feed, put your cat on a schedule so you can control his portions (see
“Feeding on Schedule”). If you already feed him on a schedule, re-
duce the amount you feed gradually over a week or so. Another way
to reduce your cat’s caloric intake is to switch to a lower-calorie food.
Cat Nip
Does your cat suck up food faster than an industrial-strength
vacuum cleaner? To help slow him down, put his kibble in a
toy designed to release a few bits at a time as he bats it
around. Or toss small amounts of kibble on the floor for him to
pick up. You can also place a few clean rocks, 1 to 2 inches in
diameter, in his bowl so he has to pick the food from among
them. Be sure the rocks are too big for him to swallow!
Feeding on Schedule
Many people free feed their cats, leaving food down all the time and
letting their cats eat as they please. Of course, free feeding works
only with dry food—canned foods spoil too quickly to be left out for
long, and semi-moist foods tend to become gummy and form unap-
petizing globs. For many cats—and their owners—free feeding
works well. For others, scheduled feedings are better.
One good reason to feed your cat measured amounts of food on
a schedule is to prevent or deal with obesity. Don’t assume that a cat
won’t overeat—Garfield is by no means the only fat cat around! If
your cat begins to put on excess weight, he’s eating too much. If
you’ve been free feeding, switch to twice-daily meals, giving him
half ration at each feeding. Keep in mind, too, that because the rec-
ommended servings on cat food packages are rough estimates and
are more than many individual cats need to maintain weight and
health, you need to adjust the amount your cat gets every day
according to his weight. And remember, small changes in the
amount of food can make a difference—a 1⁄2-pound weight gain
or loss is significant in a 10-pound animal.
If you have more than one cat, scheduled feedings will work best
if the cats are on different diets and you need to control who gets
what. Even if your cats all eat the same foods, scheduled meals allow
you not only to control each cat’s portions but also to observe very
quickly if one of them stops eating, which can be the first sign of a
serious health problem. If you free feed multiple cats, it might be
some time before you notice that one has stopped eating normally.
Making the switch from free feeding to scheduled meals isn’t
difficult, although it will cause some grumping the first few days,
as most cats are not amused by change. But whether they think so
or not, you’re in charge. At bedtime the night before the first day
of the new regimen, pick up all food and don’t put any out in the
morning. At dinnertime, put out the food for about half an hour. If
you have more than one cat, supervise the first few meals. If one is
a fast eater and wants to “help” with another’s food, feed them in
different rooms or remove the quick eater when he’s finished.
A cat who has been used to munching throughout the day will
likely be hungry by dinnertime and eat most of her food, but she
might also walk away, thinking the absence of food during the day
was a booboo on your part. Even if she hasn’t eaten her whole din-
ner, remove it after 30 minutes and wait until morning to offer more
food. In a day or two, everyone will adjust and scheduled meals will
be a normal part of daily life.

˙ Good nutrition is essential to your cat’s health and longevity.
˙ Commercial diets vary in quality, and you tend to get what you
pay for.
˙ A good understanding of feline nutritional needs is necessary
for success with a homemade or raw diet.
˙ A fat cat is not a healthy cat.
Chapter
9
What Every Cat Should
Know
In This Chapter
˙ Training your cat—yes, it can be done!
˙ Reinforcing good behavior with rewards
˙ Training in litter box and scratching etiquette
˙ Teaching kitty to accept a harness and leash.
Does “cat training” sounds like an oxymoron? Believe it or not,

you can train your cat! In fact, you’ve undoubtedly trained your
cat already. Doesn’t he come running when he hears the can opener
at kitty-cat dinnertime? Granted, it’s not always easy to tell who
trained whom, but cats do learn to do things, like come at the
sound of a box or can being opened, based on the results—in this
case, come running, get fed. If you apply the same principle of
reward for performance to other behaviors, you can train your cat
to come when called, sit, lie down, roll over—all sorts of things.
Let’s think about some good reasons to train our cats and then
look at the basic principles of learning (and, therefore, training or
teaching) through positive reinforcement. Then, in the remainder
of this chapter, we’ll apply these ideas to everyday life with a cat, in-
cluding litter box training and proper scratching habits. In Chap-
ter 14, we’ll look at more advanced training possibilities.
Why Train a Cat?

Training usually involves creating behavior patterns in which a spe-
cific stimulus (a command or a need such as the urge to scratch)
results in a specific response. Training can also be a process of
retraining, during which a previously learned response is replaced
by a different one that the trainer prefers. Most cat training is actu-
ally retraining or problem-solving (see also Chapter 10). But there’s
no reason to wait for problems to develop—one of the best reasons
to train a pet is to prevent unwanted behaviors before they begin.
To the person who lives with a well-trained pet, the benefits of
training are obvious—fewer “accidents,” less damage and cleanup,
and less pet-related stress. But training benefits the trainee as well.
When you teach your cat what you expect from her, you give some
structure to his life, which in turn gives her confidence and peace of
mind. Training also provides intellectual stimulation. Cats are intel-
ligent animals, and in the wild their minds would be occupied with
the business of survival—hunting and dodging hazards. A domestic
life with no mental exercise is, well, boring! Training gives your cat
constructive ways to use her physical and mental energy, banishes
boredom, and keeps both of you happier.
Best of all, training teaches you and your cat to understand
one another, creating mutual respect and strengthening the bond
between you. If the only way your cat can get your attention is by
being naughty, that’s what he’ll do. Why not pay attention to him
for being smart and well behaved instead?
Chapter 9: What Every Cat Should Know 109
(Photo by Glenn Bristol)

In the wild, a cat gets plenty of physical and mental stimulation just surviv-
ing. For a pet cat, training and play are excellent—and safer—substitutes.
Basics of Positive Reinforcement

Positive reinforcement is the most effective and fair approach to train-
ing a kitten or cat. Some people use “pure” positive reinforcement,
meaning they don’t use any corrections during training. Others use
positive reinforcement for desired behaviors and gentle corrections
for the undesirable ones.
One popular form of training using positive reinforcement is
clicker training, so-called because you use a handheld clicker to tell
your cat when he’s done something correctly. Clicker training has
become popular among dog trainers, but it is effective with many
kinds of animals, including cats.
A complete discussion of clicker
training (based on principles of Purrfect Words
operant conditioning) fills entire Positive reinforcement
is the process of re-
books, so I won’t go into the warding your cat with some-
details here. If you’re interested in thing she likes for doing what
trying this punishment-free you want her to do, such as
method with your cat, check out praise and a treat for coming
Karen Prior’s book Don’t Shoot the when you call her.
Dog (see the appendix).
In the end, though, you don’t need gadgets to train your cat.
You just need consistency and a way to tell him when he does the
right thing. Consistency means you and everyone else in your
household allow and disallow the same behaviors. If you shoo your
cat off the kitchen table and someone else cuddles him there half an
hour later, he’ll be confused about whether he’s allowed to be there
or not. Rewards—treats, cuddles, toys—tell your cat that a particular
behavior earns him something he likes.
Training Basics
Training should begin as soon as you bring your kitten or cat home.
If you have a kitten, begin gentle handling and training right away.
Use frequent sessions, and remember that kittens have short atten-
tion spans, so a few minutes at a time are plenty. If you have an
older cat, sessions can be a bit longer, especially once your cat gets
used to being trained, but don’t expect even an adultto give you his
undivided attention for more than 5 to 10 minutes at a time. Focus
on one behavior during each session and keep training fun. If your
kitty does what you ask two or three times, quit for a while and play
with him. You can do more training a little later. Learning is hard
work and better accomplished in small amounts.
Teach your cat to let you restrain her—this will be useful for
general grooming and routine vet visits and might be critical in an
emergency. Begin with very short sessions of holding, and slowly
increase the length of time until you can hold her still without a
fight for 5 minutes or so. She will learn to trust that you have noth-
ing sinister in mind when you hold her, and that will help you teach
her to let you groom and examine her (see Chapter 7).
Never, ever hit your cat, not with your hand, not with a flyswat-
ter, not with anything. Hitting him won’t teach him anything you
want him to learn. He will learn, instead, to be afraid of people and
he might become shy, nervous, and withdrawn. He might try to
fight back, biting or swatting out of fear. Either way, you’ll have an
unhappy cat on your hands, and you won’t be very happy, either.
Training an animal can be

frustrating at times, but it can Hissss
also be highly rewarding. If you If you can’t watch your kit-
(or your cat) are getting frus- ten or new adult cat, con-
trated, quit for a while. Relax. fine him to a room or a cat
cage (see Chapter 4). It’s easier
Come back to the lesson when to prevent unwanted behaviors
you’re in a better mood. If you than to correct them after they
need some help or support, use become bad habits.
the resources listed in the appen-
dix. Most of all, respect and enjoy
your cat.
Litter Box Training

Most kittens and cats are naturally clean about their toilet practices.
Mother cats normally teach their offspring to use the “proper facili-
ties,” but even kittens who miss out on Mom’s guidance usually
learn proper potty etiquette easily. Still, you can help encourage
good habits.
(Photo courtesy of Andy and Gina Darnell)
Most kittens take to the litter box quite readily—but they do need
to learn it’s not a community play area!
Many different types of litter boxes are available, from the sim-
ple, inexpensive plastic model to the pricey, self-cleaning electronic
contraption. Fancy boxes might appeal to cat owners, but all your
cat really needs is a litter box that’s large enough for her to be able
to fit into it comfortably, turn around, and dig in the litter.
Cat Nip
If you have a very young kitten, he might need a little extra
help with potty training. When you can’t supervise him, con-
fine him to one room or a cat cage with access to a litter box.
Place him in the litter box immediately after meals, naps, and
play times, when he’s likely to need to go. If he’s too small to
climb in and out of an adult-size litter box, give him litter in a
low-sided aluminum or plastic pan.
Place the litter box in a quiet, low-traffic area. If you have a

dog, find a way to keep the dog out of the litter box—many dogs
are attracted to the rich, high-protein odor of cat feces. If you have
more than one cat, you might want to provide more than one litter
box—the cats will decide how to divvy them up. (I’ve had cats who
each used individual boxes, and other cats who both used both
boxes, one for urine and one for feces.) If you use a single box for
multiple cats, remove waste at least once a day and clean the box
once or twice a week. If your cat seems to track litter out of the box,
place the box on a washable rug or plastic mat to catch the litter.
Types of Litter
You’ll find a wide variety of litters available in pet supply stores and
many other outlets. Some cats (and their owners) have specific pref-
erences, but in general, cats seem to like relatively fine-grained,
unscented sand or clay litters. Let’s look at some litter options.
Traditional clay-based litter absorbs some urine. Most people
with one cat remove feces once a day and change the litter once a
week. If you have more than one cat using a single box, you’ll need
to scoop and change more frequently.
Clumping litters are popular

and are designed to form clumps Cat Nip
or balls when wet with urine. The Some people like to
advantage of clumping litter (in use plastic litter box
theory, anyway) is that “pee balls” liners, which hold the litter in
the box and can make litter
are easy to remove and litter
removal easier. Liners work with
doesn’t need to be changed as some cats, but other cats shred
often. Clumping litters are made the plastic when they dig to
of various ingredients, but many cover their urine and feces,
include sodium bentonite, a very making the liner pointless.
fine-grained clay that forms
clumps and swells to more than 10 times its original size when
moist. If you’ve ever cleaned this type of litter out of a litter box,
you know the clumps can glue themselves to the litter box surface.
Clumping litters have other potential disadvantages: some
people are sensitive to the very fine dust these litters release, and
because the litter tends to stick to cat fur, it gets tracked through the
house more. More important, clumping litters pose a potentially
lethal health hazard for some felines. Ingestion of litter particles has
been linked to intestinal blockages—the minute particles clump
together and swell into a ball of solid clay in the stomach or intes-
tines. Kittens seem to be at higher risk than adults because they
don’t have to ingest much of the litter to block their tiny organs, but
adult cats have reportedly had problems as well.
On the other hand, lots of cats have used clumping litter with
nary a problem. If you want to try the clumping litter, avoid it until
your kitten is full-grown and even then, keep a close eye on your cat
so if a problem does develop, you can catch it immediately.
Not all litters are made from clay. At least two inexpensive types
of litter are made from ground corncobs. One, a sandblasting grit, is
said to clump as well as clay-based litters and smell better. Another
type consists of coarsely ground corncobs and is used with a spe-
cially designed litter box that has a screen over a drain pan. These
types of litter can usually be found in farm and feed stores.
Wood shavings, often sold as animal bedding, can also be used

for cheap litter. Some cats are fine with shavings, but others dislike
stepping on them because they tend to be wet. Pelletized pine litter
is more expensive but is said to be dust free, nearly odorless, and
needs changing less frequently as long as waste is removed regularly.
If your cat isn’t using his litter box, try changing the type of
litter. Sometimes that makes all the difference.
Litter Box Cleanup

Many cats are fussy about their litter boxes and will stop using one
that doesn’t live up their cleanliness standards. If your cat is “tin-
kling outside the box,” try scooping more often. Many people scoop
once in the morning and again at night.
Proper disposal of cat waste is essential to control odor and pro-
tect the health of people and animals. Some litters are flushable, but
some shouldn’t be put down any toilet, and some are especially bad
for septic systems. (Clumps of lit-
Hissss ter can stick to the inside of pipes
Don’t dispose of used kitty and block your home’s plumbing.)
litter by dumping it in your If you’re disposing of litter and
garden. Feces from carnivores waste in your garbage, it’s a good
shouldn’t be used as fertilizer.
idea to double bag it in heavy plas-
Dumping cat litter inappropri-
ately will certainly raise a stink, tic bags. You also might want to
which will annoy your neigh- wear disposable gloves for litter
bors and probably attract roam- box cleaning (see also Chapter 11),
ing cats. It can also spread and whether you wear gloves or
disease and parasites (see
not, always wash your hands
Chapter 11).
with soap and hot water after
cleaning.
Cleaning the litter box regularly will help control odors. Some
litters are less smelly than others, and mixing plain baking soda
into the litter will help. Don’t use strong scents to mask odor—
remember, your cat’s nose is more sensitive than yours, and a scent
you like might overpower her. The most effective odor control
practice is regular cleaning. When you change the litter, scrub the
box with hot soapy water. Don’t use scented disinfectants. If you
want to use something stronger than soap and hot water, a 10 per-
cent bleach solution (1 part bleach in 9 parts water) is effective
against most bacteria and viruses—but be sure you rinse the box
until all trace of bleach odor is gone.
Some people have successfully
trained their cats to use the toilet.
Hissss
I’ve never had any particular
Never use cleaners con-
interest in doing this because cats taining pine oil on litter
don’t flush when they’re finished, boxes or other areas accessible
but if you want to try it, check out to your cat. Pine oil is toxic to
How to Toilet Train Your Cat by Paul cats and many other animals!
Dunkel (see the appendix).
Scratching Etiquette
Cats have claws, and, as a result, they have certain behavioral urges.
Outdoors and in the wild, cats use natural objects—often tree
trunks—to sharpen their claws and deposit scent from glands in
their paws (see Chapter 5). Indoors, they look for other options, and
if you don’t want your curtains, furniture, and carpets shredded and
scarred, you need to provide scratchable alternatives and teach your
cat to use them.
You can find a wide range of scratching items. Some are with
carpet, burlap, or wound twine. Sisal carpet or twine works well as
it’s tough and cats seem to like the feel of it. Some of the fancier
scratching posts are impregnated with catnip or have catnip-scented
toys or bags attached to them to encourage cats to scratch (see
Chapter 5).
Some cats like to stretch their forelegs and bodies upward; some
prefer to crouch over a horizontal surface. So naturally enough,
some commercial scratching items are designed to stand upright or
hang from doorknobs or brackets, and others lie flat. If your cat
ignores one type of scratching item, try a different style.
MeowWOW
Inexpensive scratching items aren’t all that hard to make, and
some cat owners have success with a very simple scratching
posts made by wrapping several layers of carpet or burlap
around a wooden post or board. Be sure the burlap is fastened
securely to the wood, preferably with nails that can’t be pulled
loose, and be cautious using staples that could tear free with
scratching and pose hazards for your cat. Instructions for build-
ing scratching posts are available on several websites (see the
appendix).
Some cats take to scratching items all by themselves; others need

a bit of training. As with all training, it might take your cat a little
while to catch on, so be patient. Scratch on the item yourself to
demonstrate its use. If your cat shows interest, encourage him with
soft talk and more scratching. If you see him scratching something
he shouldn’t, quietly move him to the legal item and encourage him
to scratch there. As he begins to use the legal scratching area, you
can add a “No!” when you find him scratching inappropriately.
Don’t scream or throw things at him; you don’t want to scare him,
you just want to interrupt undesirable behavior. Quietly tell him
“No,” help him find the right place, then praise him like crazy.
Cats who receive some basic training usually have more confidence
at home and out and about.
Crate Training Your Cat

Many people resist the idea of confining a cat in a carrier or crate.
But where does your cat go when frightened, injured or ill—a small,
private place, right? From a cat’s perspective, a carrier, used properly
for reasonable lengths of time, isn’t a jail but a safe, familiar refuge.
A carrier provides a safe means of transportation for routine travel
(see Chapter 15) or in an emergency (see Chapter 13). A carrier
can also keep an ill or injured cat from hiding or causing more
damage to herself (or your home if she’s suffering from diarrhea or
vomiting).
If your cat only sees his carrier when he’s going to the vet, he
won’t be too keen on getting into it. But if you make it a part of
everyday life, he’ll be happy to hop in when you need him to. A cat
carrier doesn’t take up much room, so consider leaving it in a spot
your cat likes. My Malcolm loved to sleep in my bedroom closet, so
I put his carrier on the closet floor, and he took many a nap there by
choice. Be sure the door is fastened open so your cat can get in an
out, and put some comfy, clean bedding inside.
To teach your cat to enter the carrier on command, toss in a
treat and give a command such as “Hop in!” If she still won’t go in
after a few days, try feeding her first near the carrier, then with her
bowl just inside its door, and finally with her bowl at the back of the
carrier. Don’t close her in until she seems comfortable going in and
out, then shut the door briefly. When you let her out of the carrier,
don’t make a fuss—make getting in the good part, not getting out.
Training such as I’ve discussed in the chapter can go a long way
to making life with your cat more convenient. But the best reason
to spend time training your cat is that training teaches you both to
understand one another better, and better understanding greatly
enhances the bond you share.

Willow, a Turkish Van, relaxing on a warm summer day—on
leash. A well-trained cat can be a wonderful companion.

˙ Training benefits both your cat and you.
˙ Rewards are more effective than punishment.
˙ Essential litter box and scratching manners come easily to most
cats.
˙ Teaching your cat a few basic commands will make life better
for both of you.
Chapter
10
The Not-So-Well-
Behaved Cat
In This Chapter
˙ Preventing undesirable behaviors
˙ Understanding fear and stress in cats
˙ Dealing with inappropriate elimination
˙ Managing aggression
˙ Keeping your belongings safe from claws
Just as most family members and friends do, our cats occasionally
indulge in behaviors we don’t care for, ranging from the mildly
annoying to the offensive or dangerous. Let’s look at possible causes
for some of the most common feline behavior problems and what
we can do about them.
Preventing Unwanted Behaviors

Preventing troublesome behaviors requires some planning and a
effort but is usually far easier than fixing them later. Let’s review
some of the most important factors that affect behavior, both good
and bad.
Good health care and nutrition are essential—disease, pain,
nutritional deficiencies, certain food ingredients, and medications
can all create stress and fear that negatively affect behavior. Exercise,
both physical and mental, is also important for reducing stress and
promoting good emotional health. And basic training and socializa-
tion are critical for directing intelligence and curiosity in acceptable
directions (see Chapter 9).
(Photo by Audrey Roorda)
Prevention—like keeping the fishies out of reach—is your best approach to

stopping problem behaviors before they start.
Stress and Fear

Cats are creatures of habit. They find change stressful and even
frightening and often react to it in ways we find undesirable.
Chapter 10: The Not-So-Well-Behaved Cat 121
Moving to a new home can be upsetting (see Chapter 15), as can a

change in routine. A cat might also react negatively to habitual
situations or activities he finds objectionable. Too many people or
pets in a household upset some cats. Confinement indoors might
stress a cat who is used to going outside to wander. A cat’s own
physical condition can also create stress. Obesity or malnutrition,
injury, surgery or other veterinary treatment, illness, and parasites
can all affect a cat’s emotions and behavior.
Contrary to old notions of the detached, antisocial feline, cats do
form and thrive on strong emotional attachments. They appear to
respond to the same stimuli that affect any social animal, including
loneliness, boredom, death of a family member (human or animal),
and jealousy. On the other hand, while some cats can live happily
with 20 of their own kind, others prefer more solitude and react
negatively to the presence of other animals.
Aggression, hiding, inappropriate elimination, excess eating or
refusal to eat, obsessive self-grooming or lack of grooming, and
obsessive chewing or sucking on cloth and other items can all indi-
cate stress or fear. Your job is to help your cat behave more normally
by figuring out what’s bothering him. First, be sure he doesn’t have a
medical problem. Then, if possible, remove the stimulus. If that isn’t
possible, be patient and wait until your cat adjusts. In the meantime,
try to minimize the effects. For instance, you might confine your cat
to a room or two. If he’s jealous of the dog or jockeying for position
with another cat, separate them and see the suggestions for making
introductions in Chapter 4. If your cat isn’t using his litter box or is
spraying, see the appropriate sections in this chapter.
If you think your cat might be
lonely or bored, consider adding Cat Nip
a second cat to your family. If If you have to leave
that’s not possible or desirable in your cat alone for long
your case, be sure you spend time periods, consider leaving on a
radio or television. The sound of
playing with your cat, grooming
voices soothes many animals.
him and otherwise interacting
with him. Give him an enriched
environment of toys and playthings. Spend some time training him

to stimulate his mind as well as his body (see Chapters 9 and 14).
If you suspect that your cat is upset about a new pet in the house
or just not happy about the number of pets, try separating your pets
into smaller groups that occupy different parts of the house, tem-
porarily or, if necessary, permanently. Sometimes simply providing
more vertical cat roosts—cat trees, shelves, perches—solves the
problem by allowing different cats to occupy different levels and
allowing your cat to get away from the dog or toddler.
Some cats develop a fear of routine elements of life—thunder,
the vacuum cleaner or other noisy appliances, and outside noises
such as lawn mowers. When that fear becomes excessive and irra-
tional, it becomes a noise phobia. Cats are very sensitive to their
owner’s emotions, so if you’re nervous during thunderstorms, your
cat probably will be, too. Learning to calm yourself will help both
of you. People often inadvertently reward and encourage fearful
behavior, too. If you cuddle, pet,
and coo to your frightened cat,
Purrfect Words
you might think you’re helping
A noise phobia is an
irrational fear of a par-
him, but you’re actually rewarding
ticular sound (a vacuum cleaner, him for being afraid. A better
a ringing bell) or a type of response is to talk to him happily
sound (a loud boom, a high- and go about your business, ignor-
pitched sound). ing the noise or other stimulus that
frightens him.
Separation Anxiety
Separation anxiety, a condition in which a cat finds his owner’s
absence stressful, can cause undesirable behaviors. One symptom
is inappropriate elimination, often on or near an object identified
with the owner or near the door through which the owner usually
leaves. The cat might also develop stress-induced diarrhea.
Separation anxiety might cause a cat to stop eating, vomit, vocalize

loudly, groom excessively until he has bald spots, and scratch and
chew destructively. Typically, these behaviors appear 8 to 12 hours
after the owner leaves home.
MeowWOW
Both genetics and environment might influence an individual
cat’s tendency to develop separation anxiety. Kittens who are
orphaned or weaned too young seem to be particularly prone
to the problem. Proper socialization during kittenhood is the best
prevention for separation anxiety and many other behavioral
problems (see Chapters 3, 4, and 17).
Successful treatment of separation anxiety requires time,

patience, and effort. Many people make a fuss over their cats before
they leave and when they return, but it’s unlikely your kitty will fol-
low a discourse on where you’re going, how long you’ll be gone,
and how much you “wuv your snookie-wookums.” A more effective
strategy is to ignore your cat while you prepare to leave and to leave
quietly. When you get home, don’t fuss over your cat and his terri-
ble day without you. Just go about your business for 15 or 20 min-
utes, maybe talking to your cat but not fawning over him. Once his
initial relief at seeing you subsides, you can sit down and cuddle him
without rewarding him specifically for your return.
Toys and treats may also take your cat’s mind off your absence.
Keep a few nifty toys that he gets only when you’re gone, and give
them to him just before you walk out the door. You might also hide
a few special tasty treats around the house. Another idea is to feed
him his breakfast from one of the food-dispensing toys available
from pet supply stores or from your own version made with a small
cardboard box with the lid taped shut or an empty paper roll with
the ends closed off. Poke treat-size holes in the sides, and partially
fill the item with treats or your cat’s breakfast kibble. As your cat
bats it around, the treats will fall out of the container.
Many people also swear by herbal treatments as well as TTouch

and other alternative approaches to treatment for emotional and
behavioral problems (see the appendix). In extreme cases of separa-
tion anxiety, when the cat appears to be in danger of hurting him-
self, your veterinarian might prescribe a short course of anti-anxiety
medication.
Correcting Other Common Behavioral

Problems
It’s important to realize that although we might dislike something
our cat is doing, our reaction doesn’t make the behavior abnormal or
wrong. Most behaviors that we find problematic are normal to the
cat. As a result, it’s our job to engineer a solution that provides for
both human and feline needs and sensibilities.
If your cat’s behavior takes a turn for the worse, you should first
determine if he has a medical problem (see also Chapters 11 and
12). Be sure to tell your vet about the problem, because behavior can
be important in making a diagnosis. If you can confirm your cat’s
good physical health and can rule out nutritional factors, it’s time to
figure out why your cat is doing what he’s doing. Sometimes a sim-
ple change in the environment can clear up a problem. When that
doesn’t work, retraining and behavior modification are needed to
effect a change.
Tinkling Outside the Box

The most common problem behavior in pet cats is inappropriate
elimination—soiling in the house outside the litter box. Although
this behavior takes many forms, typically the cat will deposit urine
or feces outside the litter box. Poor potty habits can develop in cats
who have previously been fastidious, making the behavior all the
more disturbing to their owners.
Medical conditions often trig-

ger the start of house soiling. Any Cat Nip
health problem that causes pain It’s important to act
on elimination or that makes get- quickly to determine
ting in and out of the litter box dif- why your cat’s behavior has
changed. The longer the behav-
ficult or painful, can underlie the
ior continues, the harder it is to
soiling behavior. Diseases and correct.
medical problems such as feline
lower urinary tract disease
(FLUTD); kidney or liver disease; colitis, bowel, or anal sac disease;
hyperthyroidism; diabetes mellitus; arthritis; or vision problems (see
Chapter 12) have been known to cause behavior changes.
The stress brought on by a new routine, moving, new family
members or pets, loss of a family member, and other changes can
also cause house soiling. Simply providing a safe and private refuge
for your cat and ensuring that some things remain “normal” can
make a big difference in his stress level (see, for instance, “Stress and
Fear” earlier in this chapter, and Chapters 4 and 15 on moving or
settling in a new pet).
Sometimes the litter box itself is the problem. “Odor-reducing”
boxes with lids might appeal to cat owners, but I’ve never had a cat
who liked them. If your cat has arthritis or other aches and pains, a
high-sided box might be too much of a challenge. The same goes
for a small kitten. The box might even be too small—your cat
should be able to turn, squat, and dig without being cramped.
Cats can be picky about the litter in their boxes as well.
Perfumed or heavily scented litters or a residual odor in the box
from soap or detergent can repel some cats. The texture of a partic-
ular litter can also be a problem. (For more on cat litters, see
Chapter 9.) The amount of litter in the box might influence your
cat’s behavior. Some cats like only a little litter; others want more of
it. Some cats don’t like litter at all, or like it for one “number” but
not the other. If your cat is choosing to go on smooth surfaces (bare
floors, sinks, bathtubs), try offering an empty litter box. Some cats
dislike plastic litter box liners, too.
The location of the litter box can be a problem. Cats don’t like
to eliminate where they eat and drink (who does?), so putting the
litter box too near food and water might cause your cat to seek other
“facilities.” Most cats also prefer a location where they don’t feel
vulnerable to other pets, although the box should be reasonably
accessible. If you have more than one cat, you should provide more
than one litter box—at least one per cat. If you have the space, you
might try placing two or more litter boxes in different spots around
the house to see if location makes a difference.
Cleanliness can also be a factor—many cats dislike what they
regard as “dirty bathrooms,” and some cats need two boxes—one for
pee, one for poop. Some cats don’t like to use a box that has been
used by another cat.
If your cat has pottied outside the litter box, it’s critical that you
remove all trace of urine or feces odor because those scents label the
area as the “bathroom.” Remember, your cat has a great nose (see
Chapter 5), so even if you can’t
detect an odor, your kitty might.
Cat Nip
Neutralize surface-level urine
If you have more than
one cat and don’t odors with a 50-50 mix of white
know which one is pottying in vinegar and water or with enzyme-
the wrong places, ask your vet- based cleaners that remove organic
erinarian for an edible dye that odors. If the urine has soaked
will color urine. Give it to one
through to the pad or subfloor,
cat at time to identify the one
with the bad habit. however, you might have to
replace the carpet and pad and
clean and seal the underfloor.
Whatever you do, don’t punish your cat for inappropriate
elimination. Rubbing his nose in it, hitting him, or yelling at him
will simply increase his stress. He’ll learn to be more secretive
about where he potties, and he will lose his trust in you. Positive
approaches to changing his behavior will get you farther, faster.
Here are some additional suggestions:

˙ Keep litter boxes clean (see Chapter 9).
˙ Take your cat to the litter box after meals or playtime, and if
she uses it, reward her with a treat and praise.
˙ After deodorizing the area, feed your cat where he was pottying
inappropriately, at least temporarily. Most cats won’t potty
where they eat.
˙ Discourage your cat from visiting the area by closing a door,
using repellants (sprays, motion detectors, scat mats), or pro-
viding unwelcoming surfaces (plastic sheets, aluminum foil,
double-sided sticky tape, or carpet runners placed upside down
with spikes or nubs up).
˙ When you can’t supervise her closely, confine your cat to a
small room or even a kitty cage with water, bedding, toys, litter
box, and food if you free feed. When she uses the litter box
reliably in the small space, gradually let her into other parts of
the house unsupervised.
˙ If you see your cat going or preparing to go (usually by dig-
ging) outside the litter box, say “No!” or use a remote correction
to disrupt the behavior. Then take him to the litter box.
Purrfect Words
A remote correction is one that you apply at a distance so
your cat doesn’t realize you’re responsible. For instance, a
squirt of plain water directed at the cat (but away from his
face and eyes, please), or a pop can with a couple pennies
sealed inside tossed near—not at!—the cat can disrupt an un-
wanted behavior and enable you to redirect the cat to a more
appropriate action.
Spraying
Although all cat pee is pretty much the same to most people, to your
cat, there’s a big difference between urinating to relieve a loaded
bladder and spraying urine onto vertical surfaces to proclaim owner-

ship of territory and things. Intact males and cats who live in multi-
cat households are most likely to spray.
Prevention is the best solution to spraying, and the best preven-
tion is neutering. Very few cats who are neutered before 6 months of
age ever have the urge to spray. If other cats wander through or near
your yard, block your cat’s view to reduce his urge to post “no tres-
passing signs.” To reduce stress establish a routine so he knows
when to expect food and clean litter, and keep his litter box(es),
bowls, scratching post, bed, and whatnot in the same places. If your
cat isn’t fond of guests, put him in a quiet room when you have
company.
If you have more than one cat, encourage your clowder to get
along so they see themselves as “family.” You can promote mutual
grooming, a terrific bonding activity, by wiping them both with a
damp cloth. Feed them near one another (see Chapter 4), play with
them together, cuddle them to-
Purrfect Words gether, and encourage them to
A group of cats is
sleep together. If they don’t see
called a clowder. one another as competitors, they’ll
be less inclined to spray.
If your cat has already started to spray, getting him to stop will
be a challenge. Clean the area thoroughly and remove all trace of
urine odor (see “Tinkling Outside the Box”). Keep him away from
the spot until the habit is broken. If you can’t keep him away with a
physical barrier, try a repellant made specifically to discourage cats.
(First be sure you can tolerate the smell of the repellant!)
Biting and Scratching

Cats can and sometimes do display aggression toward people. It’s
unpleasant and potentially dangerous to live with an aggressive cat,
so let’s look at some of the causes of aggressive behavior as well as
some potential solutions.
As with other behavior problems, the first step in dealing with

aggression is to rule out a physical problem. If your cat is ill or in
pain, touching or disturbing her can trigger defensive aggression.
Even a healthy cat can occasionally get cranky because of acute
pain—if you’ve ever accidentally stepped on your cat’s tail or toe,
you know about this! If your new cat shows aggression or if your
established cat suddenly turns crabby, take her for a check-up.
Fear can also bring on defensive aggression. For instance, if a cat
is cornered, injured, or otherwise frightened, he might hiss, spit,
swat, and bite to protect himself. Pain can trigger fear, so if your cat
appears irrationally fearful, see your vet. Similarly, if you startle your
cat, especially when he’s asleep, his first response will often be a
defensive one.
Petting can occasionally trigger a bite. Some vets and behavior-
ists believe that the “bite to the hand that pets” phenomenon, which
most cat lovers have experienced at some time, might be due to irri-
tation or even pain brought on by repetitive petting. (Imagine shak-
ing hands with someone who keeps on shaking until you can’t stand
it anymore. You might not bite, but I bet you’d want to!) It’s also
important to realize that some cats just don’t like to be cuddled or
petted.
MeowWOW
People sometimes say their cats bite or swat them without any
warning. Most cats do, in fact, issue warnings, but many peo-
ple don’t get the message in time. If your cat growls, twitches
his tail or skin, stiffens his body, pulls his ears back, or unsheaths
his claws, he’s telling you to back off.
If you’ve ruled out physical problems, then it’s time to manage

and hopefully change the behavior. First, try to determine what
triggers the aggression. If a particular person or pet causes your cat
to bare his claws, see if you can figure out why. Is the dog pushy?
Does your son clomp around in big clunky shoes? Sometimes even
a simple change—training the dog

Hissss to leave the cat alone or having
Never hit, kick, or other- your son change his shoes in the
wise physically correct house—can fix the problem. Also
your cat. It won’t solve the prob- consider general stress or change
lem and will probably provoke in the environment. Have you
more aggression and fear.
moved recently, put in new carpet,
changed the furniture around, or
added a new family member?
You might be able to stop your cat’s aggressive behavior through
counterconditioning, a technique in which you offer a reward for the
behavior you want and ignore the unwanted behavior. For instance,
if your cat reacts aggressively to being picked up, start by simply
touching him while he’s on the floor and simultaneously giving him
a treat. When he’s relaxed with that (which might take several
encounters), up the ante a little by running your hand down his side,
still giving him a treat. Then get your hand under his belly without
lifting him. Work from there to lifting up on his belly but without
raising his paws off the floor, then lift him just a little, then a little
more, and so on. Be patient, and don’t try to push him too quickly.
The key to success is not to pass his tolerance limit. At the first sign
he might be getting cranky, back off slightly. Stay at that level until
he’s relaxed and comfortable with the stimulation, then proceed
again slowly. This approach will take a while, but the results will be
more dependable than any attempt at a quick fix.
Remember, above all, that the first priority when dealing with an
aggressive animal is to keep others—human and animal—safe. An
angry or frightened cat can cause a great deal of damage with those
sharp teeth and claws, so don’t take chances with yourself, other
people, or other pets. If your cat poses a danger during the normal
course of household activity, seek help immediately from a qualified
behaviorist who can evaluate the behavior and develop a treatment
plan. Be aware, too, that among cats—as among people—an
occasional individual might be mentally unbalanced and beyond
treatment. If all other options fail, or if you cannot be certain that

the cat won’t injure someone (especially a child), the kindest and
most loving solution may be to release the cat from his demons
through humane euthanasia.
Destructive Scratching
Cats scratch to sharpen their claws, and to mark objects with their
scent (see Chapter 5). Your job is to encourage your cat to scratch
and mark “legal” objects—scratching posts and similar items—and
discourage them from marking and shredding drapes, furniture, car-
pets, and other off-limits items. You can’t completely prevent your
cat from scratching—even declawed cats go through the motions to
apply scent. But you can teach your cat to scratch only certain
objects (see Chapter 9).
Be sure the scratching post is convenient, preferably near your
cat’s favorite sleeping spot. Many cats like to scratch when they wake
up, perhaps to refresh their scent. Your cat will return to the spots
that already carry his scent, so it’s important to get her to scratch the
post, marking it as hers.
Cat Nip
If your cat has scratched drapes, furniture, or other items in
your house, he has left his scent on them. In addition to
encouraging him to scratch where you want him to, you need
to remove his scent from the “illegal” places. Clean the areas
thoroughly, then apply an enzyme cleaner designed to remove
the scent. Follow the manufacturer’s directions; some are pre-
mixed, others need to be activated with water. Then make the
area inaccessible until the habit is broken, or spray it with a pet
repellant. (Test the repellant first—some might repel you, too!)
If your cat just won’t use his scratching post, try a different type
(see Chapter 9). When he does use the proper place, praise him and,
at least at first, give him a little treat. Positive reinforcement
is very effective (see Chapters 9 and 14).
Another option that works well for some cats is soft plastic
covers that slide onto the cat’s claws to prevent her from using them
destructively (see “Kitty Claws” in Chapter 7).
Soft plastic claw covers might be useful for controlling

your cat’s urge to shred your furniture.

˙ Many factors can lead to common behavioral problems in cats.
˙ You can prevent and treat house soiling in a number of ways.
˙ Aggression has physical and emotional causes and solutions.
˙ You can often control destructive scratching through training.
Part
4 Keeping Your
Cat Healthy
Next to you and your family, your veterinarian should be your cat’s
best friend, so Part 4 begins with information on how to find the
right vet for you and your feline friend. Next, we look at the basics
of routine veterinary care for cats, including how you can minimize
your cat’s risk of exposure to disease or injury and protect her from
parasites. Then we look at the realities of life with a sexually active
feline and see how spaying or neutering can benefit your cat’s health
and behavior.
Try as we might, we can’t completely protect our cats from dis-
ease and accidents, so I also discuss common feline health problems
as well as emergencies cat owners sometimes encounter. I show you
how to recognize when your cat needs veterinary attention and
explain what you should and shouldn’t do in those times. We
explore some of the ways you can manage long-term health prob-
lems, and I suggest a number of steps you can take to protect your
cat in the event of disaster. I hope you never need any of the infor-
mation in Chapter 13, but I also hope you take the time to read it so
if the unspeakable does happen, you’ll know what to do.

Chapter
11
Your Healthy Cat
In This Chapter
˙ Getting to know your cat’s second-best friend—his veterinarian
˙ Protecting your cat from illness and injury
˙ Keeping parasites at bay
˙ Spaying and neutering
A healthy cat is a happy cat, and a happy cat is a better companion.

Regular veterinary care will help detect problems before they be-
come overwhelming. Spaying or neutering will also prevent some
health problems, minimize the risk of others, and prevent unwanted
kittens. Let’s take a look at your partner in your feline friend’s health
care, the vet, and what he or she can do for you and your cat.
Your Cat’s Veterinarian

One of the most important people in your cat’s life is his
veterinarian—even if he isn’t all that keen on going to see her. After
you, your vet is your cat’s second line of defense against the effects
of disease and injury. She is also a resource when you have questions
about your cat’s health or behavior.
136 Part 4: Keeping Your Cat Healthy
Cheapest and closest aren’t the best criteria for choosing a vet-
erinarian. You should feel comfortable asking your vet questions,
and you should be confident that
MeowWOW she knows what she’s doing, is will-
ing to listen to you, and genuinely
Fifty years ago, women
veterinarians were very likes cats. If you aren’t comfortable
rare. Today, about 70 percent with your vet or with the atmos-
of graduates from American vet phere or policies of the practice in
schools are women. which she works, find a new one.
It’s to your cat’s advantage to
see the same vet most of the time
Cat Nip so she knows your cat’s medical
Help your vet diagnose history, including a record of vac-
your cat’s health and cinations, illnesses and injuries,
behavioral problems by care-
fully observing and recording treatments, and so forth. Your cat
changes in your cat’s behavior will also be more relaxed if he sees
and physical characteristics. the same vet each time, especially
if you both like her.
Finding a Vet
How can you find a terrific vet? If you’re getting your cat from a
local shelter, breeder, or rescue program, ask who they recommend
and why. Ask also if there’s anyone they avoid and why. Ask cat-
owning relatives, friends, and neighbors about their vets. If there’s
a cat club in your area, ask them for recommendations. As a last
resort, check the telephone book or Internet for local veterinarians.
Consider what’s importantto you. Do you want to be able
to drop off your cat and pick him up later? Or do you prefer to see
the vet? Do you need evening or Saturday appointments? What
about emergency services? Are you comfortable with the clinic’s
payment and billing policies? Are you willing to drive a bit, or do
you prefer to find a reasonable vet close to home? Do you want a
Chapter 11: Your Healthy Cat 137
veterinary practice that offers additional services, such as grooming

and boarding? If possible, arrange to interview the vet (or vets) who
interest you and ask for a tour of the facilities. You might have to
pay for an office visit, but many veterinarians will talk to you for a
few minutes at no charge.
(Photo by Naomi Hasegawa)
Healthy cats sleep about 16 hours a day. Work with your veterinarian
to develop a plan of routine health care for your kitty.
Office Visits
Veterinarian practices vary, but for the most part, during a routine
veterinary examination, your cat’s veterinarian will …
˙ Check your cat’s teeth and gums.
˙ Check his ears for infection,
ear mites, or other problems.
Cat Nip
˙ Check his eyes for pupil Vet visits are stressful for
response and retinal appear- most pets, but if your
ance. cat is particularly upset by the
presence of dogs, consider a
˙ Check his skin and coat for cats-only practice.
parasites and other problems.
˙ Check his weight, temperature, respiration, and heart rate.

˙ Perform standard blood work.
˙ Check your cat’s fecal sample for intestinal parasites.
˙ Give vaccinations as needed.
Hissss
If your kitten or cat has one or more of the following symptoms
for a significant length of time, contact your veterinarian. It
could indicate a potentially serious problem.
˙ Fever ˙ Discharge from nose and eyes
˙ Depression ˙ Breathing from the mouth
˙ Loss of appetite ˙ Coughing
˙ Vomiting ˙ Tongue blisters and ulcers
˙ Diarrhea ˙ Listlessness
˙ Dehydration ˙ Weakness
˙ Continual sneezing ˙ Paralysis
˙ Tearing ˙ Abnormal aggression
Vaccinating Against Infectious Diseases

Over the past decade, concerns about problems associated with over
vaccination have led the American Veterinary Medical Association
(AVMA), a number of veterinary colleges, and many veterinarians
to modify their approaches to vaccinations. Some people have even
decided that vaccinations are “too risky” and have ceased vaccinating
their cats. It’s important, though, to put things into perspective.
Before effective vaccines were developed, millions of pets (and
people!) routinely died or were debilitated by a host of horrifying
diseases, most of which are still around. Vaccines do hold risks for
a small minority of those who receive them, but proper vaccination
is still the best protection we have against infectious disease.
Vaccines are classified in two ways: core vaccinations are con-
sidered critical for all cats to protect against diseases for which risk
of exposure is high. Noncore vaccines protect against less-common
diseases and are given or not given depending on the cat’s age,
health status, breed, potential for exposure, and type of vaccine.
The pharmaceutical companies that produce the vaccines and
the veterinary community don’t always agree on proper protocols
for vaccinating cats. The manufacturers recommend annual revac-
cination in most cases. The American Association of Feline Practi-
tioners (AAFP), in contrast, recommends that core vaccines be given
to most cats every 3 years unless there is a higher-than-normal risk
of exposure to the disease.
Talk to your vet and inform yourself about the risks of both
diseases and vaccinations, then decide which vaccines, given how
often, make the best sense for you and your cat. Because laws in
most states and many countries require the rabies vaccination, even
if you choose not to give other vaccinations, be sure to keep your
cat’s rabies shots up to date.
Core Vaccinations
Core vaccinations are given to cats for the following diseases:
˙ Feline Panleukopenia (feline distemper) is a widespread,
potentially fatal viral disease. Most cats will be exposed to it at
some time, so vaccination is critical. Kittens whose mothers
have panleukopenia during gestation or who survive the disease
themselves often suffer permanent brain damage and other life-
long problems.
˙ Feline Rhinotracheitis is a viral disease that causes severe
upper respiratory infection. It is widespread, and although vac-
cination won’t prevent the disease, it will make its symptoms
more mild.
˙ Feline Calicivirus is a viral disease of the upper respiratory
system and is responsible for nearly half the upper respiratory
infections in cats. Once infected, a cat can continue to carry the
virus and suffer runny eyes and sneezing all its life, even if it is
treated.
˙ Rabies is perhaps the most frightening of the viral diseases

that threaten pets because it can affect any mammal, including
people, and it is always fatal once symptoms appear. The rabies
virus, which attacks the central nervous system, is spread in
the saliva of an infected animal, usually by way of a bite. Rabies
is fairly common in wild animals, including skunks, foxes,
raccoons, coyotes, and bats, which can pass the disease on to
domestic animals.
Rabies occurs in two forms. Most of us picture a rabid animal
foaming at the mouth and behaving aggressively, which are
symptoms of furious rabies. But rabies can also cause paralysis,
usually starting in the jaw and moving through the limbs and
vital organs. This form, known as dumb rabies, is harder to
recognize.
Once symptoms of rabies infection appear, death is inevitable.
That’s why rabies shots are required by law and common sense
in the United States, Canada, and some other countries, and
why rabies-free countries enforce quarantines on incoming
animals (see Chapter 15).
MeowWOW
According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
(CDC), 7,437 cases of rabies in animals were reported in the
continental United States and Puerto Rico in 2001. The num-
ber of cases of rabies in cats increased 8.4 percent, while cases
in all other domestic animals decreased. Cats accounted for
more than twice as many cases of rabies as dogs or cattle.
Common Noncore Vaccinations

Noncore feline vaccines include those for feline leukemia (FeLV),
feline infectious peritonitis (FIP), chlamydia (see Chapter 12), and
ringworm. The AAFP recommends that FeLV and FIP vaccinations
be given only to cats who might be exposed to the diseases through
contact with other cats. The decision to vaccinate against chlamydia
or ringworm should be based on the cat’s risk of exposure.
When to Vaccinate
The timing and frequency of vaccinations depend on your cat’s age,
where you live, whether your cat goes outdoors or is ever boarded,
and other factors, so work out your cat’s individualized vaccination
schedule with your veterinarian.
Newborn kittens born to healthy, properly vaccinated mothers
get some immunity to disease from the colostrum in their mother’s
milk. This protection begins to wear off, though, sometime between
the kitten’s fifth and tenth week of life. By 20 weeks it’s completely
gone, so a series of vaccinations is typically given, starting at between
6 and 8 weeks of age. Most veterinarians recommend a series of 3 or
4 core and specific noncore vaccines, given at 3- to 4-week intervals.
A kitten typically receives the final “kitten shots” at about 4 months
of age. Booster vaccinations are normally given a year later and at
various intervals after that to ensure lifelong protection.
Purrfect Words
Colostrum is a concentrated mixture of antibodies, protein,
vitamins, electrolytes, nutrients, and fluid produced by the
mother’s breasts during the first 36 to 48 hours after birth. It
enhances the newborn kitten’s chances of survival by providing
protection from infectious disease as well as fluids needed for the
heart and circulatory system to work properly.
Traditionally, most vaccinations have been given by injection

under the skin (subcutaneous) or into the muscle (intramuscular), but
newer vaccines are available in nasal forms, which can eliminate
concerns about sarcomas (cancers) that develop near injection sites
in a small percentage of cats.
Fleas, Mites, Ticks, and Other Pests

Forget vampires—the real bloodsuckers that threaten your cat are
much smaller but every bit as vicious. Let’s look at some common
pests and find out what you can do about them.
Fleas
Fleas are an all-too-common problem for cats and other animals,
including people. And they’re not just annoying—when they bite,
fleas spread deadly diseases and parasites through the saliva they
inject to keep their victims’ blood from coagulating.
If fleas establish themselves in your house or yard, you’ll need
a comprehensive program to kill adults, larva, and eggs. Some over-
the-counter products are moderately effective, but many of the most
effective products are available only through veterinarians. What-
ever you use, be sure it’s approved for use on cats and kittens. Speak
to your vet about the most effective products for your situation.
Ticks
Ticks are nasty little arthropods (relatives of spiders) who lurk in
woods, fields, and backyards and use heat sensors to locate prey.
They then cling to fur or clothing until they can insert their pin-
cherlike mouthparts into the skin and feed on their host’s blood.
The tick’s mouthparts lock into place and willingly let go only when
the tick has completed its meal. Like fleas, ticks carry disease, in-
cluding babesiosis, anaplasmosis, ehrlichia, East Coast fever, relaps-
ing fever, rocky mountain spotted fever, and, most commonly, Lyme
disease.
If ticks are a problem where you live, check your cat at least
weekly and more often if she goes outdoors. A fine-toothed flea
comb will help you locate ticks under her fur. If you find a tick,
remove it carefully. It’s easy to pull the body off, leaving the tick’s
head in the skin, and that can lead to infection.
Dab the tick with iodine, alcohol, or a strong saline solution to
make it loosen its grip, then carefully pull it straight out with for-
ceps, tweezers, or your fingers with a tissue over the tick. Special
tick-removers are also available in some pet supply stores. Don’t
squeeze the tick while removing it—you’ll force fluids from the tick
into your cat, increasing the chances of infection or disease. After

you remove the tick, you should see a small hole in the skin. If you
see a black spot, you’ve left the head. If that happens, watch the
spot for a few days for signs of infection, and if one develops, call
your vet. Clean the bite with alcohol, Betadine, or iodine. After
about 5 minutes, apply antiseptic ointment. Be sure the tick is dead
before you dispose of it—there’s evidence that ticks can survive
being washed down sink drains or being wrapped in tissue and
tossed in the garbage. Soak the little pest in alcohol or iodine for
several hours, or burn it in a safe container. Always wash your hands
and any tool you used to handle the tick with soap and hot water
when you finish.
Ringworm
Ringworm is not a worm but a fungal infection. It can easily be
spread from one pet to another, and it’s one of the few diseases
that pets can pass to people. A vaccine to both prevent and treat
ringworm has recently become available, so if ringworm is a prob-
lem where you live, you should ask your vet about the vaccine.
Ringworm usually starts as a sore-looking bald circle, but if your
cat or kitten develops any sort of bald spots, have your veterinarian
take a look. Don’t use home remedies. Fungal infections are hard
to treat and even harder to cure, and your vet has effective modern
drugs. If your cat has ringworm, ask your vet what you need to do
to keep it from spreading through your household.
Mange
Mange is caused by tiny mites that feed on skin debris, hair follicles,
and tissue. Symptoms include hair loss often followed by a flaky
crust on the skin. The mites cause intense itching, so affected ani-
mals will scratch themselves raw, giving easy access to viral, fungal,
or parasitic infections. Three types of mange occur in cats:
˙ Demodectic mange is fairly unusual in cats, and some evi-

dence suggests a cat’s immune system must be compromised
in some way before the animal becomes vulnerable to the two
species of mite that cause demodex.
˙ Notoedric mange, also known as sarcoptic mange or scabies,
develops when a microscopic mite burrows under an animal’s
skin to lay eggs. In less than 3 weeks, the eggs hatch, the larvae
develop into adult mites, and they begin to lay their own eggs.
Notoedric mange causes intense itching, oozing sores, crusty
ear tips, hair loss, and secondary infections from bacteria that
enter the injured skin. Hair loss will progress to the ears,
elbows, legs, and face and eventually the entire body. Cats,
dogs, and people can all pass scabies to one another.
˙ Cheyletiella mange, or “walking dandruff,” is characterized
by mites that look like dandruff on the animal’s head, neck,
and back. It doesn’t cause much itching, and although it’s
highly contagious, it’s also easily treated and short lived.
Different types of mange require different treatments, so if

you suspect your cat has mange, see your vet. If you have multiple
pets, you’ll probably need to treat all of them, even if they’re not yet
symptomatic.
Intestinal Worms
Several species of parasitic worms can infest cats. Some create no
problem at all and pretty much go unnoticed. Others might be
tolerated in small numbers but can threaten health in higher con-
centrations. Many intestinal worms that infest cats can be passed
to people, so until your veterinarian finds your kitty to be free
of worms, it’s essential for you and your family to practice good
hygiene—especially hand-washing after handling the kitten.
Let’s look at two of the more common intestinal worms:

˙ Roundworms (acarids) look like strings of spaghetti about
8 inches long. Most cats who have roundworms are born with
them, as they’re passed from mother to offspring. Roundworms
cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, anemia, and, in high num-
bers, malnutrition. Luckily, they’re easy to diagnose and treat.
˙ Tapeworms are transmitted to cats primarily by fleas that
carry tapeworm larva, although mice, rabbits, and other
animals are also possible sources. The tapeworm requires an
intermediate host, which the cat must eat while the worms are
in the larval form. The larvae
then develop into adult tape-
Purrfect Words
worms. Tapeworms don’t
An intermediate host is
threaten the health of the
an animal in which a
host as severely as some other parasite’s larvae live until a final
intestinal parasites, but it’s host eats them and the adult
still best to prevent and elimi- parasites then develop.
nate them.
Tapeworms don’t show up in feces, so they’re harder to diag-
nose than other worms. They do shed small, white, ricelike
segments, passed out in bowel movements, which cling to the
hair around the host animal’s anus. If you find such segments
on your cat, see your vet. Wormers that kill most other intes-
tinal worms don’t work on tapeworms.
Several other types of parasites can also cause weight loss,

anemia, respiratory infection, and diarrhea in kittens and cats—more
excellent reasons to include a fecal exam as part of your cat’s regular
check-ups.
Heartworm
A long, thin, parasitic worm that lives in the blood vessels and heart
of infected animals causes heartworm disease. Mosquitoes transmit
heartworm in larval form and it

Hissss can infect cats of any age as well as
Do not treat your cat with dogs and even people. Heartworm
your dog’s heartworm occurs in most parts of North
medicine. The dosage require- America, and indoor cats are as
ments are very different in the
two species. much as risk as cats who go out-
doors.
Symptoms of heartworm disease in cats vary widely, especially
in the early stages. Some cats show no symptoms at all, some show
signs of being vaguely “not quite well,” and some develop more
serious symptoms. Untreated, heartworm disease can kill.
Several types of heartworm preventatives are available for cats.
These preventatives kill the microscopic larvae injected by mosqui-
toes before they can mature into life-threatening adult heartworms,
and are available in once-a-month pills and in topical forms applied
to the skin. Some heartworm preventatives also prevent intestinal
worms or fleas. Ask your vet about the best choice for your cat.
Can You Catch Something from Your Cat?

People sometimes worry about whether they can catch diseases
from their cats. You can catch zoonotic diseases from your feline
friend, but the chances of that happening are very slim. You are
much more likely to catch things from other people than from your
pets. Common sense and good hygiene are usually all you need to
minimize your risk.
Perhaps the most talked-about
Purrfect Words disease believed to be passed from
Zoonotic disease, or cats to people is toxoplasmosis, or
zoonosis, or refers to “toxo,” caused by the common
diseases that can be transmitted
to people from animals, both
parasite Toxoplasma gondii. Cats are
domesticated and wild. often blamed for giving the disease
to people, but there’s never been a
documented case of toxo transmission from cat to human. Most

cases come from eating or incorrectly handling raw or undercooked
meat, especially pork. The only way a cat could transmit the disease
is in its feces and only for a few weeks after the cat is first exposed
to the disease. You cannot get toxoplasmosis by handling or being
licked by a cat.
If your cat contracts toxoplasmosis, he might have trouble
breathing, act depressed, have a fever, and blink and squint due
to eye inflammation. Healthy adult cats usually recover, but toxo
can kill kittens. See your vet if you notice any of these symptoms.
To protect your cat from toxoplasmosis, feed him only dry,
canned, or cooked foods—nothing raw. Prevent him from hunting
or eating wildlife, and from scavenging in the garbage.
To protect yourself from toxoplasmosis, cook meat—especially
pork—thoroughly. If you’re pregnant and at risk for toxoplasmosis,
have someone else clean the litter box and handle raw meat, and
don’t interact with stray or unknown cats. Otherwise, clean the litter
box at least daily (it takes 36 to 48 hours for the parasite’s eggs shed
in the cat’s stool to become infective). Wash the box with soap or
detergent, and rinse it with scalding water once a week. Wear gloves
when cleaning the litter box, and wash your hands thoroughly with
soap and hot water afterward.
Cat Nip
If you’re pregnant or planning to become pregnant, ask your
doctor to perform a “toxo titer” to determine whether you have
had toxoplasmosis. The CDC say that a woman who tests pos-
itive for toxoplasmosis antibodies prior to becoming pregnant will
not pass the parasite to her fetus. The CDC estimate that about
one-third of people in the United States have been infected with
toxoplasmosis, which is a problem only when the victim is preg-
nant or immunosuppressed. Once infected, you are immune.
Most of us never know we’ve had the disease.
Sex and the Companion Cat

Without a doubt, kittens are among the cutest baby animals around.
Cuteness doesn’t mean every kitten will get a proper home, though,
and far too many kittens and cats end up in shelters and, often, dead
because no one wanted them. Preventing the birth of kittens for
which there will be no homes is one of the best reasons to have a
pet cat altered.
Purrfect Words
Animals who have been altered have either been spayed or
neutered. Spay is the common term for an ovario-hysterectomy,
the surgical removal of a female animal’s uterus and ovaries,
rendering her sterile. Neuter is the common term for castration,
which renders a male animal sterile by one of several methods.
Altering offers a number of health benefits. If done before a

female cat’s first heat, it eliminates her risk for cancers of the female
reproductive system and greatly reduces her risk for mammary
cancer. It also eliminates the chances for pyometra, a potentially
life-threatening infection of the uterus. It eliminates the male’s risk
for testicular cancer.
Altered cats make better pets, too, because the annoying behav-
iors linked to the urge to reproduce are prevented. An intact (un-
altered) male cat will mark his territory—your home, inside and
out—with his unmistakably stinky tomcat urine. He will wander in
search of females and fight with other tomcats, which puts him at
risk for serious injury or death from cars, wounds and infections,
and other dangers of life on the road.
An intact queen may also spray urine, and she’ll yowl her yearn-
ings loudly and nonstop when she’s in heat, which can be as often
as every other week for 7 to 10 days at a time. This yowling will
drive you and your neighbors to distraction and bring a gang of
spraying, brawling suitors to her (your!) door. Inevitably, she’ll have
kittens, and their well-being and futures are your responsibility
(see Chapter 17). All in all, an altered cat of either sex is a healthier,
more pleasant pet than one who wants to procreate.
Ideally, a male kitten should be neutered no later than 6 months,
after his testicles descend from the abdominal cavity into the scro-
tum but before his urine takes on the strong odor of an adult tom
and he starts spraying. A female should be spayed if possible before
her first heat, which can come as early as 5 months of age. Adult
cats, too, can be altered, of course—better later than never!
The cost of altering varies, depending on where you live and the
individual veterinarian. Free or low-cost altering programs are avail-
able in many areas. For information, contact your local shelter or
veterinarians.
(Photo by Nancy Louie)
After you, your cat’s veterinarian is his second-best friend.

˙ You and your veterinarian should work together for your cat’s
lifelong well-being.
˙ Prevention is the best policy when it comes to your cat’s
health.
˙ You can control or eliminate feline parasites.
˙ Spayed and neutered cats make healthier, more pleasant pets.
Chapter
12
Managing Health
Problems
In This Chapter
˙ Recognizing signs of illness
˙ Understanding common infectious diseases
˙ Preventing bigger health problems
˙ Managing acute and chronic health problems
˙ Giving medications
Sometimes, despite our best efforts to protect our cats from injury
and disease, the felines we love become ill. A little information
about some of the more common health challenges for cats and
some of the causes and management options will prepare you to
take the appropriate actions to keep your feline friend in good
health.
Recognizing Symptoms
Symptoms are the first warning signs that something might be
ailing your cat. If your cat has any of the following symptoms, see
the veterinarian as soon as possible:
˙ Lumps or swellings that persist or grow larger
˙ Weight loss
˙ Loss of appetite
˙ Difficulty eating, drinking, or swallowing
˙ Difficulty breathing
˙ Lethargy or loss of stamina
˙ Lameness or stiffness that lasts more than a day or two
˙ Difficulty urinating or defecating
˙ Sores that do not heal
˙ Bleeding or discharge
˙ Offensive odor
These symptoms can indicate more than one problem, so if your

cat isn’t acting quite right, take him to his veterinarian for proper
diagnosis and treatment.
Common Feline Diseases

Infectious diseases are those that one animal can pass to another.
Vaccines are available to protect your cat from some of them (see
Chapter 11), and management of your cat’s environment and expo-
sure to other cats can significantly reduce the risk of others. Cats
who roam outdoors are at high risk of contracting diseases, as are
kittens younger than 16 weeks (see Chapter 11).
Chapter 12: Managing Health Problems 153
Feline Infectious Peritonitis

Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP) is a potentially fatal disease that
appears in two forms. The more common form is effusive (wet) FIP,
in which the cat’s chest and/or abdomen becomes distended with
fluid. This in itself doesn’t seem to cause pain, but it can compress
the lungs and force fluid into the airways, causing respiratory dis-
tress. Other symptoms of effusive FIP include jaundice, mild ane-
mia, enlargement of some lymph nodes, gastrointestinal problems,
conjunctivitis and eye ulcers, and neurological impairment. A less
common form is noneffusive (dry) FIP, which is more difficult to
diagnose because it develops more slowly and symptoms are less
specific, usually including depression, weight loss, fever, and anemia.
Kidney, liver, ocular, neurological, and pancreatic disease can also
occur in cats with dry FIP.
FIP is thought to be caused by mutation of the Feline Enteric
Coronavirus (FECV), which causes a common flulike infection of
the intestines in cats and most commonly in kittens. The effects
of FECV in healthy cats are negligible. But in cats whose immune
systems aren’t functioning properly, the FECV virus can mutate
into the more dangerous FIP form and cause widespread, systemic
infection. There is no effective treatment for FIP.
FIP is difficult to diagnose not only because the symptoms could
indicate other diseases, but also because there is no diagnostic test
that distinguishes the FIP virus from other coronaviruses. Some cats
carry the virus and shed it in their
feces but show no symptoms of
Hissss
the disease. The precise mode
If your cat is diagnosed
of transmission and incubation
with a communicable
time are unknown, but infected disease, keeping her indoors
cats can transmit the disease to will not only protect her from
other cats. FIP virus may be able additional infection or injury,
to survive at room temperature for but will also keep her from
spreading the disease to other
up to 3 weeks and may be carried
cats.
on clothing, shoes, carpets, and
other surfaces.
Prevention of FIP isn’t easy. Most detergents and disinfectants

kill the virus, so keeping litter boxes, food and water bowls, and the
rest of the environment clean can help. If you pet or handle cats
outside your home, especially outdoor cats or strays, wash yourself
and your clothing before they come in contact with your own cat.
A vaccine is available for FIP (see Chapter 11), but veterinarians do
not agree on its effectiveness or safety. If you believe your cat is at
risk of infection from other cats, speak to your vet about the vaccine
and then make an informed decision.
Blood tests are used for diagnosing many diseases.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) impairs the immune system,
leaving the cat vulnerable to disease and infection. Although affected
cats rarely die from FIV itself,
MeowWOW they usually succumb to bacterial,
Unfortunately, several fungal, and viral infections. Keep-
feline diseases have ing an FIV-positive cat indoors
been labeled “like AIDS.” The and away from other cats is essen-
fact is, you cannot catch AIDS tial, both to prevent spreading the
from a cat.
disease and to shield the cat from
contracting other diseases. Because FIV lowers resistance, its victims

usually need to see their vets often. There is no vaccine against FIV.
FIV enters the body through open wounds, particularly bites
from affected cats, and evolves through three stages. During the
acute stage, the cat experiences fever, depression, swollen lymph
glands, and often bacterial infections. The latent stage, during which
the cat appears well, can last from a few weeks to several years.
Finally, the cat enters the chronic stage, becoming highly susceptible
to other infections and usually surviving less than 2 years.
Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease

Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD) is a common, serious
problem in which some part of the urinary tract becomes partially
or completely blocked. Formerly known as feline urologic syndrome
(FUS), a number of factors acting alone or in combination, includ-
ing crystals in the urine, bladder stones, urinary tract tumors, bacte-
rial or viral infections, trauma, and congenital malformations can
bring on the disease. Sometimes the cause is never identified.
Cats from 1 to 4 years old are most commonly affected, al-
though FLUTD can occur at any age. Obesity increases the risk of
developing crystals and stones, as do stress, poor-quality or high-
magnesium-content foods, inadequate water intake, and improper
urine pH balance. Although FLUTD can affect both sexes, the
disease is more severe in male cats because their urethras are nar-
rower and more easily blocked than those of females.
FLUTD is painful and potentially life-threatening. If your cat
frequently tries to urinate and fails or produces little urine, if there’s
blood in his urine, or if he’s straining or crying when trying to pee
or is urinating outside the litter box, he needs immediate veterinary
care. Diagnosis of FLUTD can be confirmed with physical examina-
tion, x-rays, bloodwork, and/or urinalysis.
Specific treatment for FLUTD depends on the severity of the

problem, but the goal is to eliminate the blockage. A special diet
designed to dissolve the stones and crystals and clear the urethra
often treats mild cases successfully. Intravenous fluids may be given
to prevent dehydration and flush the bladder. In severe cases, sur-
gery might be necessary, and your vet might prescribe antibiotics
to treat or prevent secondary infection.
Feline Leukemia Virus

Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) suppresses the immune system and is
one of the leading causes of serious illness and death in domestic
cats. FeLV-positive cats are at high risk of contracting a number
of diseases, including not only leukemia but also lymphoma, other
cancers, or various bacterial and viral diseases.
FeLV enters the cat through saliva, blood, mucus, urine, or feces
and travels to the lymph tissue. If the cat’s immune system is strong
enough to destroy the virus, that’s
MeowWOW the end of the story. If it’s not, the
You cannot catch virus reproduces and eventually
leukemia or other dis- moves to the bone marrow, where
eases from a cat with FeLV. It it may remain for years without
affects only cats.
causing serious illness. Ultimately,
the virus attacks other tissue and
destroys the immune system, leav-
Cat Nip ing the cat vulnerable to disease.
FeLV cannot survive in Talk to your veterinarian about
warm, dry environments your cat’s risk of contracting FeLV
and is easily neutralized with
and whether vaccination against
household soaps, detergents,
and disinfectants. the disease makes sense in her case
(see Chapter 11).
There are no clear-cut symptoms of FeLV because the virus
itself doesn’t make the cat ill but makes it vulnerable to other dis-
eases. If your cat develops chronic behavioral changes or seems to
be “not quite right,” take him to the vet.
Upper Respiratory Disease

Viruses and bacteria, acting alone or in combination, cause upper
respiratory disease, a common affliction of cats, especially kittens.
Let’s look at the three most common types:
˙ Feline herpes virus (FHV, previously known as feline rhinotra-
cheitis virus) affects cats differently. Most cats experience rhinitis
(runny nose and sneezing), sometimes with conjunctivitis (red,
runny, squinty eyes). Occasionally, FHV is more severe, causing
diarrhea, fever, and corneal and oral ulcers, especially in kit-
tens. Sometimes antibiotics are prescribed to treat secondary
bacterial infection, but the virus has to run its course. FHV is
spread through direct contact
with a cat who is or has been MeowWOW
affected or with mucous from FHV affects only felines.
such a cat. A mother cat may You cannot get herpes
also transmit it to her kittens from your cat!
in utero.
˙ Feline calicivirus (FCV) can cause symptoms like those of FHV
as well as fever, joint pain, oral ulcers, and gum disease. There
is no cure for the virus, but antibiotics often help manage sec-
ondary bacterial infections. A cat may continue to shed the
virus and spread it to other cats even after symptoms disappear.
˙ Chlamydia psittaci is a bacterialike organism that lives in mucous
membranes, particularly the conjunctive tissue around the eyes.
The most common symptom of chlamydia is conjunctivitis,
but it can also cause diarrhea, rhinitis, fever, and pneumonia.
Chlamydia infections are usually treated with tetracycline oint-
ment applied to the eyes and other oral and topical antibiotics.
People can contract a mild form of chlamydiosis, so wash your
hands after handling or treating an affected cat.
Other Health Problems

Not all illnesses are contagious, of course. Let’s take a look at non-
infectious health problems that can affect some cats.
Cat Allergies
Cats cause allergic reactions in many people (see Chapter 2), so I
guess it’s only fair that cats can suffer from allergies, too. Let’s look
at the most common feline allergens.
˙ Inhalant allergens are airborne particles that irritate the respira-
tory system, causing asthmalike symptoms, and, in some cases,
hair loss and skin lesions. Dust from kitty litter is a common
offender; other common inhalant
allergens include pollen, tobacco
Hissss
smoke, fragrances, household spray
Don’t give your cat
antiallergy medications cleaners and deodorizers, and dust.
unless your veterinarian advises Inhalant allergies are often treated
you to do so. with antihistamines or, in severe
cases, steroids.
˙ Contact allergies are caused by physical contact with a substance
that causes a reaction. Common contact allergens include
plants, household cleaners, carpet fresheners, dust, wool and
synthetic fibers, ink, and topical medications.
˙ Flea allergy is very common and often becomes worse as the cat
grows older and more sensitive to flea saliva, which the insect
injects as it bites. A single flea bite can cause a massive allergic
reaction in some cats.
˙ Food allergies are also common. Grains and dairy products are
the worst offenders, but some cats are allergic to meats, dyes,
preservatives, and other ingredients used in some cat foods and
treats. Food allergies often take some time to show up and can
be difficult to pinpoint. A cat might eat the allergen-containing
food for years before allergic symptoms become evident. Food
allergies may also contribute to FUS (see “Feline Lower

Urinary Tract Disease”). Simply switching to a different food
can make all the difference.
˙ Drug and anesthesia allergies also occur in some cats. There’s no
way to predict which cat will react to which drug, so it is
important to observe your cat carefully after vaccinations or
while taking medications.
Skin patch tests can be used to diagnose contact allergies, but

often diagnosis is a drawn-out process of elimination because symp-
toms vary from cat to cat and can indicate other problems. However,
some common allergy symptoms include the following:
˙ Dermatitis (inflammation of the skin)
˙ Skin eruptions
˙ Oily skin
˙ Hair loss
˙ Changes in pigmentation
˙ Itching
˙ Inflammation of the ears
˙ Diarrhea
˙ Vomiting
˙ Respiratory problems
˙ Swelling, particularly on the face
Removing the source of the allergen can sometimes control

allergies. If your vet suspects your cat has a food allergy, he or
she will probably recommend a bland hypoallergenic diet until
symptoms clear up, followed by a slow shift to a food without the
suspected allergen. Vets often use antihistamines to control symp-
toms, and in severe cases, steroids, preferably on a short-term basis.
Anal Gland Problems

The anal glands (anal sacs) are small glands embedded in the anal
sphincter muscle. When the cat defecates or becomes alarmed, the
anal glands excrete a pungent fluid thought to be used for individual
identification and to mark territory.
Occasionally the anal glands become impacted (blocked), in-
fected, or injured and require veterinary care. Signs of anal gland
problems include licking or biting at the anal area, scooting the
rear end across the floor, or a foul odor.
Constipation
The most common cause of feline constipation is the infamous
hairball. Frequent brushing will reduce the amount of hair your
cat swallows while grooming himself, and special foods and hair-
ball treatments will help keep the nasty things from forming (see
Chapter 7).
Lack of sufficient water can also cause constipation, particularly
in older cats who don’t drink regularly. Be sure your cat has constant
access to clean, fresh water.
Liver and Kidney Disease

Infections, parasites, cancer, toxins, medications, and various diseases
can all cause potentially fatal damage to the liver. Jaundice is symp-
tomatic of liver disease, but other symptoms are not specific, making
liver problems difficult to identify.
Kidney disease is often similarly serious and difficult to pinpoint,
although changes in urination can indicate kidney problems.
Blood tests for liver and kidney function should be part of rou-
tine health care, especially for older cats or cats at special risk for
liver or kidney disease.
Pancreatitis and Diabetes

The pancreas produces insulin to help the body metabolize sugar and
other pancreatic enzymes to help the body digest and absorb fats.
Pancreatitis—a potentially lethal inflammation of the pancreas—
can be caused by certain infections, medications, infections, meta-
bolic disorders, trauma, and shock. Symptoms of pancreatitis in cats
include fever, abdominal pain, and elevated heart rate. Treatment
usually involves withholding food temporarily to allow the pancreas
to rest and recover, administration of fluids and electrolytes to com-
bat dehydration, and management of complications or suspected
underlying causes.
Diabetes occurs when the pancreas loses its ability to regulate
blood sugar. Diabetes is most common in older cats, but can occur
in young cats as well. Symptoms of diabetes include excessive thirst
and, consequently, excessive uri-
nation. Obesity can trigger the
disease, so fat cats should be Cat Nip
tested periodically, especially if If your cat has dia-
they exhibit other symptoms. Not betes, keep her indoors
all diabetic cats are fat, though, so and let everyone who might
feed her know that she can’t
if your cat drinks a lot, consider have extra snacks!
having him tested. Some diabetic
cats lose weight spontaneously.
You can sometimes manage diabetes through diet, but many dia-
betic cats need daily insulin injections to control excess blood sugar.
Most people can learn to give the injections, but frequent vet visits
are important to be sure the dosage is correct. You can use urine
glucose strips, available in any pharmacy, to monitor daily levels. But
be sure to ask your vet what to do if your cat’s blood sugar drops too
low due to insulin injections—Karo syrup is often used to bring the
level back up, but veterinary guidance is critical.
Diarrhea
Diarrhea usually doesn’t last long or indicate anything more than a
mildly upset digestive system. However, if it persists for more than
2 days, is accompanied by fever or vomiting, or contains blood, take
your cat to the vet immediately. If possible, take a stool sample along
for analysis.
In most cases, feeding your cat a bland diet for a few days will
clear up diarrhea and prevent dehydration. Some combination of plain
yogurt, cottage cheese, boiled chicken, unsalted chicken broth, bread
soaked in broth, or boiled rice works
well, although you might have to
Hissss
experiment to find a combination
Dehydration can kill a kit-
ten in a matter of hours. If your cat will eat. Some people also
your kitten has diarrhea or vom- use strained, unseasoned baby food.
its repeatedly, seek veterinary Withholding food for a day or two
help immediately. before starting the bland diet might
help. Do not withhold water!
Your veterinarian might prescribe medication or recommend an
over-the-counter (OTC) treatment. Don’t give your cat any human
medication without first consulting your vet. Some contain aspirin or
other ingredients that can harm your cat.
Hissss
Cats, especially kittens, sometimes ingest things that cannot
pass through their digestive systems. String and yarn are espe-
cially hazardous. If you see a foreign object protruding from
your cat’s anus or throat, do not try to pull it out. You can seri-
ously injure or even kill your cat. Take her to the vet immediately.
Common causes of acute diarrhea include changes in diet, partial

blockage of the intestines, medication, allergic reaction, poisoning,
parasites, disease, or infection. Chronic diarrhea can be caused by
partial blockage of the intestines, inflammatory bowel disease,
sensitivity to food or medication (particularly antibiotics), bacteria,
viral infection, or parasites, or it might be idiopathic, or have no

known cause.
Epilepsy and Seizures

In a healthy brain, neurons transmit messages so the animal can
think and move normally. If the neurons fire randomly, the animal
experiences a seizure, which can be anything from a momentary loss
of awareness to a full-blown convulsion. Seizures can be caused by a
host of factors that affect brain activity, including toxins, drug sensi-
tivity or overdose, head trauma, and disease. If the cause is identified
and removed, the seizures usually stop.
Idiopathic epilepsy (also called primary epilepsy or just epilepsy)
is a condition in which no specific cause can be determined for the
seizures. It is often inherited, and symptoms usually appear when an
affected cat is 2 to 3 years old. Although epilepsy is incurable, the
seizures can often be controlled with anticonvulsant drugs such as
Phenobarbital that calm the nerves in the brain. If seizures occur
only occasionally (once a month or less), anticonvusants are not usu-
ally prescribed.
A sick cat is no fun—for either of you—but good veterinary care can ease the
pain and often restore your feline friend to good health.
Lymphoma
Feline lymphoma is a common cancer of cats. It can affect different
organs but always involves lymphoid cells. Because feline lymphoma
is more common in cats who have FeLV or FIV, FeLV vaccination is
recommended for cats who might be exposed to other cats outdoors,
at shows, or in other contexts.
Chemotherapy can increase life expectancy in affected cats, de-
pending on the location and stage of the disease when diagnosed.
Radiation or surgery may also be used in some cases. Remission and
life expectancy in cats with lymphoma depend on the location of the
tumor(s) and how soon the disease is found and treated. The major-
ity of cats live 4 to 6 months with treatment, 4 to 6 weeks without.
The survival rate is lower in cats with FeLV or FIV.
Cancer treatment is a rapidly evolving field, so if your cat is
diagnosed with lymphoma (or another cancer), you might want to
consult a veterinary oncologist.
Thyroid Problems
Hyperthyroidism—overproduction of thyroid hormone—is the most
common endocrine problem in cats. Middle-age and older cats are
most often affected, although hyperthyroidism can develop in cats as
young as 4 years old. Environmental, nutritional, and immunologi-
cal factors are believed to play a role in the development of tumors
that stimulate the thyroid glands to secrete excess thyroid hormone.
Symptoms of hypothyroidism vary widely from one cat to an-
other. More than half of affected cats lose weight and experience
increased appetites, heart murmurs, or elevated heart rates. Vomit-
ing, increased thirst and urination, and increased activity levels are
also common. Some hyperthyroid cats experience, in various com-
binations, diarrhea, lack of appetite, weakness and lack of energy, or
respiratory problems. Hormone levels can be determined through
blood tests. Drugs, radioiodine therapy, or, occasionally, surgery are
effective in controlling an overactive thyroid.
Vomiting
Vomiting does not necessarily mean a cat is ill. Most carnivores
can vomit at will to empty their stomachs of anything that disagrees
with them. This ability makes sense in the wild, where it’s easy to
get spoiled, potentially dangerous, meat. Domestic cats retain this
ability.
Hissss
Your cat needs to see his veterinarian immediately if he has
any of the following symptoms:
˙ Blood in his vomit
˙ Diarrhea or abdominal swelling or pain
˙ Vomiting repeatedly within a few hours
˙ Listlessness
˙ Repeated vomiting of clear or white fluid
˙ Vomiting of worms or foreign objects
The most common cause of vomiting is hairballs (see “Constipa-

tion” and Chapter 7). If your cat is throwing up small gray lumps,
she is clearing hairballs out of her tummy. To help your cat elimi-
nate existing hairballs and prevent new ones, brush her frequently,
and, if necessary, give her an antihairball product (available from pet
supply stores or your vet). Although these products are supposed to
be yummy, they often have a petroleum jelly or toothpaste consis-
tency, so if your cat doesn’t want to eat the anti-hairball goo from
your finger or a spoon, smear it onto her paw. Be sure to smear well,
because she’ll probably try to fling it off before licking her paw, and
you don’t want globs of hairball medication on the walls and ceiling.
Overeating can cause your cat to vomit, too. If the vomit looks
like a ball or tube of partially digested food, your cat probably just
pigged out. Try feeding smaller portions. Playing hard or drinking
a lot of water right before or after eating can also cause your cat to
throw up. An isolated incident doesn’t mean he’s sick.
Cat Nip
If your cat vomits on your carpet or upholstered furniture, first
clean the spot (Dawn dish detergent works well), rinse thor-
oughly, then apply a stain remover according to the manufac-
turer’s directions. Vomit should not leave bright red or orange
evidence behind (the coloring is caused by dyes in your cat’s
food, which may even contribute to her digestive difficulties).
Switching to a dye-free cat food might help considerably.
Vomiting can, of course, be due to more ominous causes than

hairballs or gluttony. If your cat’s “vomiting habits” change suddenly
or if his vomiting accompanies other physical or behavioral changes,
take him to the vet. If possible, take in a sample of the vomit for
analysis—it might speed up diagnosis and treatment. Although most
feline vomiting doesn’t indicate a life-threatening crisis, repeated
vomiting can result from poisoning (see Chapter 13), intestinal
obstruction, serious disease, or infection. It can also be a sign of
food allergies, intestinal parasites, or other problems.
Medicating Your Cat (and Living to Tell

About It)
If your kitty has been prescribed a medication you must administer,
you might be thinking you have your hands full. But giving your cat
medication doesn’t have to be a stressful experience. These tips may
make medicating your cat easier—on both of you.
You might be able to disguise a small pill or liquid medication in
canned cat food, baby food, or some other soft yummy thing. If that
works and you’re sure the cat is getting the whole dose, great! If not,
you need to “pill the cat,” which can be almost as risky as belling her
unless you proceed with caution!
Find a comfortable spot where you can hold your cat securely.
(If someone else can hold her while you give the medication, all the
better.) Be sure the medication is within reach, too! If your cat is

particularly reluctant, wrap her securely in a towel with just her head
sticking out.
When she’s securely restrained, hold the medication with your
right thumb and index finger (assuming you’re right handed—
reverse if you’re a lefty). Then, with the palm of your left hand on
top of her head, place your left index finger and thumb at either
corner of her mouth and gently tilt her head back. Her mouth will
probably open. If not, push down gently on her lower incisors with
your right middle finger.
With a little practice, giving medications does

become easier.
If you’re giving a pill: Once your cat’s mouth pops open, drop the
pill as far back on his tongue as you can. You can use your fingers,
or get a pill plunger (a syringe for administering pills) from your
vet, pet supply store, or drug store. Keep your cat’s head tilted back,
and gently massage his throat or blow lightly on his nose until he
swallows.
If you’re giving liquid medication: Use the pilling procedure (see

the previous paragraph) to open your cat’s mouth. Don’t use a
spoon—the medicine will likely end up everywhere but down your
cat’s throat. A needleless syringe, available from your vet, pet supply
store, or drug store, will make squirting the medication down your
kitty’s throat much easier for both of you. Markings on the syringe
will also make it easier to measure the dose.
Don’t let your cat leap away as soon as the medicine is down the
hatch—that simply reinforces his opinion that a terrible thing just
happened, and he’ll be even less cooperative next time. Continue to
hold him, gently stroking and talking to him, and give him a treat if
he’ll take one. When he relaxes, then gently let him go.
Keep an eye on your cat for a while after you give the medica-
tion. Cats can vomit easily and at will, and he might scurry off to rid
himself of the horrid stuff you forced on him. Calm him with pet-
ting, and offer him a treat to take his mind off it long enough to let
him forget. If he does vomit the medication, do not re-administer it
unless you’re certain he gave up the whole dose. If he throws up
most doses, speak to your vet about alternatives. Some medications
can be administered in topical ointments and or by injection.

˙ Prompt recognition and treatment can keep many minor health
problems from becoming serious.
˙ Cats, like all animals, are susceptible to infectious diseases,
some of which you can prevent.
˙ Nutrition, weight, and lifestyle all affect your cat’s risk of
disease.
˙ Advances in veterinary care are helping cats live longer, better
lives, even with chronic disease.
Chapter
13
In Case of Emergency
In This Chapter
˙ Planning ahead for emergencies
˙ Assembling a first-aid kit for your cat
˙ Organizing important supplies and documents
˙ Knowing how to respond to sickness or injury
Nothing has more potential for causing fear and stress than an
emergency involving our family, friends, or pets. Serious injuries
and illnesses can occur in the flick of a whisker (usually half an hour
after your veterinarian’s office closes!), and natural or man-made
disasters can force us to evacuate our homes at any time. Planning
ahead for emergencies can save lives, including those of our cats and
other pets.
In an emergency or evacuation, time truly is of the essence, and
knowing where to find basic first-aid supplies, vital phone numbers
and other information, and evacuation supplies will speed up your
response time. Making such information and equipment readily
available to others can also be critical if you’re not there.
Your cat depends on you for his safety and well-being. This
chapter suggests some things you can do to be prepared and also
discusses some basic first aid.
First-Aid Supplies
Most of us keep some basic first-aid supplies in the medicine cabi-
net, but it’s a good idea to put a special cat (or pet) first-aid kit
together as well. These are essential ingredients for a good kitty
first-aid kit:
˙ A muzzle, because even the sweetest cat might bite when he’s
in pain or frightened. You can purchase a cat muzzle from a pet
supply store, or you can cover the cat’s head gently with a towel
to quiet it and protect yourself.
˙ Small blanket and towels to wrap a frightened cat or cover a
wound.
˙ A fresh bottle of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (put the pur-
chase date on the label, then toss and replace after a year).
˙ A medicine syringe.
˙ Directions and telephone numbers for the nearest emergency
veterinary clinic and your own veterinarian.
˙ Poison control center phone numbers: 1-888-4ANI-HELP
(1-888-426-4435) or 1-900-680-000 (the National Animal
Poison Control Center [NAPCC]).
˙ A rectal thermometer.
˙ Lubricating jelly such as K-Y (not petroleum jelly).
˙ Sterile saline eye solution to flush eyes.
˙ A topical broad-spectrum antibiotic.
˙ A small bottle of mild liquid dishwashing detergent to remove
oil or other contaminants from the coat and skin.
Chapter 13: In Case of Emergency 171
˙ Disposable gloves to protect your hands if you handle a con-

taminated cat.
˙ Tweezers.
˙ Scissors.
˙ A basic veterinary first-aid manual (see the appendix or ask
your veterinarian or local Red Cross).
Gather your supplies in a portable box, and you’ll be able to

pack it if you travel with your cat or grab it quickly in an emergency
evacuation.
When You Need to Evacuate

Emergencies happen whether you’re home or not. Rescue workers
try very hard to look out for pets, but a little advance planning and
preparation on your part can greatly improve the chances that your
cat and other pets will survive an emergency when you’re not there
to help them yourself.
First, no one can help your cat if he doesn’t know the cat is
there. Post notices on or near the front and back doors to let neigh-
bors and emergency personnel know how many cats and other pets
are in the house. If your cat has
favorite hiding places, write those
down, too. If you have an evacua- Cat Nip
tion kit (info on this coming up), It’s a good idea to
state its location—ideally an acces- have a secure carrier or
crate for each of your pets.
sible spot near a door.
Cats in particular can be diffi-
Keep your cat’s harness and cult to control under the frighten-
leash, or better yet carrier, handy, ing conditions of an emergency,
and a carrier gives you a safe
too, and note that as well. Tape the way to control and transport
name and telephone number of your cat (see Chapter 9).
your vet to your emergency kit and
to your cat’s carrier.
Make arrangements with your vet so someone else could drop

your cat off at the clinic. Sign a boarding and medical care authori-
zation form, file one copy with your vet and one with your evacua-
tion kit, and give copies to one or two trusted friends or neighbors.
If the area where you live is prone to natural disasters, make back-up
arrangements for veterinary care and boarding at a safe distance as
well, in case the disaster affects your regular vet.
A prepacked animal evacuation kit can simplify the pet-related
part of what’s bound to be a chaotic situation. Use a portable water-
proof container, and keep it where you or someone else can get to
it easily in an emergency, preferably near a door. Be sure it’s clearly
labeled. Keep photocopies of the following documents in a folder or
envelope in your animal evacuation kit, and be sure to update them
as needed. Leave additional copies with a friend or relative in case
the kit gets lost.
˙ Veterinarian’s name, address, and telephone number.
˙ Veterinary records, including vaccination records and rabies
certificate.
˙ Information about any medical condition your cat has and nec-
essary medication or other treatment. If your cat requires med-
ication that needs refrigeration, include a prescription from
your veterinarian in case the medicine can’t be retrieved from
your house or properly stored during evacuation.
˙ Proof of ownership—your cat’s registration certificate, adop-
tion papers, proof of purchase (contract or receipt), license tag
number, and/or microchip or tattoo number. Be sure that each
of your pets has proper identification (see Chapter 4).
˙ Data sheet (updated annually) that includes your cat’s name,
color, sex, age, feeding instructions, health-care needs, and
breed. Attach at least one recent color photo of your cat—one
of her face and one of each side would be better. If your cat
gets lost during an emergency and you can’t go home, the
photo will be useful for making flyers.
In addition to your vet’s name, address, and phone number,

make a list of telephone numbers you might need in an emergency,
and keep it up to date. Put copies with your evacuation kit, with one
or two neighbors and friends, near your phone, in your car(s), and
where you work. Include the following information:
˙ Your own numbers away from home, including work, cell
phone, and pager in case someone else rescues your pet.
˙ Name, address, phone number, and e-mail address of at least
three friends or relatives to contact if you aren’t available.
˙ Phone number and address of your regular veterinarian, as well
as an alternate veterinarian 25 to 50 miles away who can board
your cat if necessary.
˙ Number and address of your local boarding kennel, as well as
an alternate boarding kennel 25 to 50 miles away.
˙ Number for your local animal shelter and animal control.
˙ Number for your local health department.
˙ Number for your local Red Cross chapter.
Pack at least a two-day supply of dry cat food in sealed bags or

containers, one or two bottles of water, and a week’s supply of any
medication your cat needs. Rotate the food, water, and medications
once a month with fresh supplies.
Vets and boarding kennels
may ask for a deposit in advance,
Cat Nip
especially if they don’t know you, If your cat takes med-
and cash can be hard to get at ication that needs refrig-
during a crisis. Reduce your stress eration, include a prescription
level by tucking an envelope into from your vet with your impor-
your evacuation kit with enough tant documents, and place a
note about the medication in a
cash or traveler’s checks to get you prominent spot. A label on top
through at least two days. The of your evacuation kit might
evacuation kit is a good place to work, for example.
store your pet first-aid kit, too.
(Photo by Denise McQuillen)

Knowing whom to call and having numbers close at hand (or paw) can
save lives in an emergency.
Basic Feline First Aid

Many, many things can happen to our cats, and knowing how to
respond can make the difference between life and death. In an emer-
gency, look first to your own safety (you can’t help your cat if you’re
injured), then focus on what needs to be done. Don’t panic. You can
collapse into a blubbering heap later.
I can cover only the basics
MeowWOW here, so consider purchasing a
The Red Cross offers good book on veterinary first aid
pet first-aid and car- to keep on hand (see the appen-
diopulmonary resuscitation
dix). Classes on first aid for pets
(CPR) classes at a number of its
local facilities. Contact your are offered in some communities if
local Red Cross for information. you want more training.
Bites and Scratches

Bites and scratch wounds aren’t uncommon among cats, especially if
they spend time outdoors or live with other cats. The first order of
business in treating a wound is to stop any bleeding. If the wound
appears to be minor, clean it gently with a clean, damp cloth, and
apply direct pressure with a clean towel, cloth, or gauze pad until
the bleeding slows or stops. Then apply a broad spectrum topical
antibiotic and call your vet. She might recommend additional anti-
biotics, especially in the case of a bite wound, to prevent infection.
Do not wipe a wound if the bleeding has stopped; you could restart
the flow of blood. And don’t pour peroxide on an open wound; it
will make the bleeding more difficult to stop and can damage tissue.
If the wound is deep or long and is bleeding or if the bleeding
from any wound doesn’t stop quickly, continue to apply pressure
with a clean cloth and get your cat to a veterinarian. Do not apply
a tourniquet unless you or someone with you has proper training in
first aid because you can cause serious damage to a limb with an
improper tourniquet.
If your cat wanders in with a wound that she obviously sustained
a while earlier, it’s quite likely that infection has already set in, espe-
cially if it’s a bite or scratch from another animal. Teeth carry bac-
teria, and puncture wounds like bites trap the bacteria inside the
tissue, making infection almost certain. If you know your cat has
been in a fight, examine her carefully and continue to check her for
at least a week for signs of swelling or infection. Talk to your veteri-
narian and, if necessary, have your cat treated. At the very least, your
vet will probably prescribe an oral antibiotic. Don’t forget that
rabies is always a possibility with bites from unvaccinated animals
(see Chapter 11).

Once a cat’s injuries have been treated, time and supportive care will help
him recover.
Poisoning
An astonishing number of things we routinely have around our
homes and yards are potentially lethal to our cats. In the best of all
worlds, your cat will never have a
chance to be poisoned, but know-
MeowWOW
ing what to do if he is can save his
Eating a rodent killed
by many common life. If you suspect or know your
rodenticides can be lethal. A cat has ingested or been exposed
single dose of modern antico- to a poisonous substance, contact
agulants can kill a cat, and sur- a veterinarian immediately. Even if
vivors may need supportive
care for several weeks.
no symptoms are yet present, don’t
wait—quick response can make the
difference between life and death.
The list of potential cat poisons is lengthy. Many are obvious
because they are also toxic to people. Others you might not suspect.
The following list of toxic substances is not exhaustive, so if you
think your cat has been poisoned, seek veterinary help immediately.
˙ Chemical poisons such as Strychnine, Sodium fluoroacetate,

Arsenic, Metaldehyde, and phosphorous are commonly used in
rodenticides, coyote bait, slug bait, ant and roach bait, and sim-
ilar products.
˙ Lead in paints, linoleum, batteries, lead pipe, and lead fittings.
˙ Phosphorus in matches, matchboxes, and matchbooks; flares;
and fireworks.
˙ Rodenticide anticoagulants such as warfarin, pindone, bromadi-
olone, and brodifacoum.
˙ Vitamin D3 (cholecarciferol) and bromethalin in rodenticides.
˙ Organophosphates and carbamates used in flea killers, garden
and household insecticides, and some dewormers can be
absorbed through the skin.
˙ Petroleum products.
˙ Chlorinated hydrocarbons in insecticides.
˙ Corrosives (acid and alkali) in household cleaners, drain clean-
ers, and solvents.
˙ Toads and salamanders, including, in the United States, the
Marine Toad (Florida), the Colorado River Toad (the
Southwest and Hawaii), and the California Newt (California),
are highly toxic.
˙ Some species of spiders, scorpions, and snakes can deliver a
potentially fatal venomous bite. If you know your cat has been
bitten or stung or notice sudden swelling on his face or body,
especially with evidence of penetration, get him to the vet
immediately. If you kill the biter, bring the body with you.
˙ Medications intended for people, including pain relievers (one
acetaminophen tablet can kill an adult cat), antihistamines,
sleeping pills, diet pills, heart preparations, and vitamins. Don’t
give your cat any medication without your vet’s approval, and
consult a veterinarian or poison center immediately if your cat

ingests any nonapproved medication.
˙ Nicotine and other toxins in tobacco products.
˙ Plants—more than 700 house, garden, and wild varieties,
including many common species—are toxic for your cat. Ask
your veterinarian or agricultural agent for a list for your area.
As a general rule, beware of plants with colored or milky sap.
˙ Household cleaning products, particularly those with pine oil
or Phenol.
˙ Food, including theobromine, a chemical in chocolate, is toxic
to cats, as is caffeine, found in coffee, tea, many soft drinks, and
other products.
˙ Antifreeze (Ethylene glycol) is one of the most common
poisons ingested by cats and dogs because they like the sweet
taste. Even 1 teaspoon is enough to kill a cat. Animals some-
times appear to recover from the acute poisoning only to die
later from kidney failure. Symptoms of antifreeze poisoning
include vomiting, lack of coordination, weakness, stupor, and
unconsciousness. Don’t leave containers of antifreeze where
pets can get at them, and clean any drips or spills with deter-
gent, then rinse thoroughly.
Symptoms of poisoning vary widely and can include vomiting,

diarrhea, loss of appetite, swelling of the tongue and other mouth
tissues, excessive salivation, staggering, or seizures. If your cat has
any of these symptoms, get him to the vet as quickly as possible. If
you suspect or know he has ingested, inhaled, or come into physical
contact with a toxic substance, don’t wait for symptoms to appear—that
might be too late. Effective treatment depends in part on prompt-
ness and in part on knowing what he has ingested. If possible, take
the container or a sample of the substance with you to the vet, or
write down the active ingredients, brand name, manufacturer’s name
and telephone number, and any antidote information provided on

the package.
(Photo courtesy of Ann Geeseman)

You never know what your cat might decide to taste, so keep toxic substances
well out of reach.
If you believe your cat has ingested poison or an overdose of

medication, do not induce vomiting if he …
˙ Has already vomited.
˙ Has swallowed an acid or alkali, any household chemical or
cleaning solution, or a petroleum product.
˙ Has swallowed anything pointed or sharp—glass, needle, pin,
toothpick, and similar objects.
˙ Is unconscious.
˙ Is having seizures (convulsions).
˙ Ingested the poison more than 2 hours earlier.
If you can reach a veterinarian, poison center, or pharmacist

within 5 minutes, ask for advice. If vomiting is advised and if none
of the conditions in the preceding list apply, use one of the following
methods (see Chapter 12 on giving medication):
˙ Give 1 teaspoon per 5 pounds of body weight of 3 percent
hydrogen peroxide. Wait 10 minutes. If your cat doesn’t vomit,
repeat. Give no more than 3 doses at 10-minute intervals.
˙ Give Syrup of Ipecac—not Ipecac Fluid Extract—1 teaspoon per
10 pounds of body weight. Do not repeat unless told to do so by a
veterinarian.
˙ Give 1⁄4 teaspoon table salt, placed on the back of the tongue.
After administering one of these, get your cat to a veterinarian as

quickly as possible.
Fractures
If your cat breaks a bone, your vet should treat it immediately to
control pain and prevent further damage. Don’t rely on the old saw
that a broken bone can’t be walked on—it’s not always true. If you
know or suspect that your cat has a broken bone, wrap him in a
blanket or towel to control and calm him, and get him to the vet.
Although you can apply a splint if necessary, in most cases it’s best
to leave any handling of the fracture to your vet. If possible, have
someone else drive so you can keep your cat calm and quiet.
As in human medicine, splints, casts, pins, steel plates, and
screws can be used to realign the bone and promote healing, and the
specific treatment will depend on the type, location, severity of the
fracture, and your cat’s age.
When to Call Your Veterinarian

Do you call the vet or not? When your cat’s not acting or feeling
right, knowing when to call your vet or take in your cat could make
the difference in his health. This section some guidelines to help
you decide when to call your veterinarian.
These are just guidelines. It’s always better to be safe than
sorry, so if you feel uneasy about how your cat’s feeling or acting,
call your vet.
Your cat needs immediate veterinary care if he has any of the
following symptoms or conditions:
˙ Lack of heart beat
˙ Severe difficulty breathing
˙ Bluish or very pale tongue or gums
˙ A broken bone
˙ Heavy bleeding
˙ A severe wound, especially if bone is exposed
˙ An eye injury
˙ A wound from a fight, particularly with another cat or a wild,
unidentified, or unvaccinated animal
˙ A puncture wound, particularly to the chest or abdomen
˙ A bullet or arrow wound
˙ Head trauma
˙ Trauma from an automobile or other fast-moving object
˙ A snake, scorpion, or poisonous spider bite
˙ A bite from a poisonous toad or salamander
˙ Porcupine quills
˙ A broken tooth (If a healthy tooth is knocked out and you have
it, keep it in milk and get to the vet.)
˙ A fall from a high place
˙ Hives or swelling, especially on the face
˙ Electrical shock or burn
˙ Burn or smoke inhalation
˙ Temperature above 105°F
MeowWOW ˙ Frostbite
Normal body tempera-
˙ Choking
ture for an adult cat is
100° to 102.5°F. For a new- ˙ Swallowing an inedible
born kitten, it’s 96° to 97°F.
object
˙ Repeated vomiting or vomit-
ing blood
˙ Severe diarrhea or diarrhea with a foul smell
˙ Blood in feces or dark, tarry-looking feces
˙ Blood in urine
˙ Repeated straining to urinate or defecate without success
˙ Bleeding from the urinary, genital, or rectal region or tissue
protruding from the rectum
˙ Crying when trying to urinate or a male licking continuously at
his genitals
˙ Suspected poisoning or overdose of medication
˙ Collapse, extreme lethargy, or lack of consciousness
˙ Seizures
˙ Staggering, walking in circles, sudden inability to bear weight
on a leg, or other abnormal movement
˙ Rapid side-to-side eye movement (nystagmus) or tilted head

˙ Severe or continuous pain
Call your vet as soon as possible—definitely the same day—if

your cat has the following symptoms:
˙ Difficulty breathing or rapid or shallow breathing (other than
right after exercise)
˙ Continuous coughing or sneezing
˙ Excessive drinking
˙ Refusal to eat or drink for more than a day
˙ Diarrhea or vomiting for more than a day
˙ Sudden behavioral change
˙ Sudden severe lameness
˙ Unusual aggression or crying when touched or lifted
˙ Squinting, red or cloudy eyes or apparent vision problems
˙ Swollen testicles or scrotum
˙ Excessive shedding, head shaking, or scratching at or chewing
on his body
˙ Red, painful, or hot-feeling lumps
˙ Clear indications of parasites or maggots
˙ Nosebleed or easy bruising
Call your vet within a day or two if your cat has any of the fol-
lowing:
˙ Loss of appetite but no other symptoms
˙ Sudden weight loss or gain
˙ Soft stool, but without blood, fetid odor, mucous, or green or
black color
˙ Drooling
˙ Foul breath
˙ Sporadic vomiting without blood or abdominal pain
˙ Abnormal lameness lasting more than a day
˙ Swollen joints
˙ Atypical depression, lethargy, change in sleep habits, or unusual
lack of interest in play or exercise
˙ Itching
˙ An unpleasant body odor
˙ Discharge from the eye, ear, or other orifice
For additional first-aid resources, please check the appendix.

Most cats and cat owners make it through their entire lives with-
out ever having to deal with an emergency, so don’t panic! Simply
being aware of hazards may actually lower the chances that you’ll
ever experience a crisis, and knowing how to respond can pro-
foundly lessen the impact if something bad does occur. So gather
your supplies and information and then go about life with your cat.

˙ A good first-aid kit will help you to care for your cat in an
emergency.
˙ Planning ahead for evacuation may save your cat’s life.
˙ Many things commonly found around the house and yard are
dangerous to your cat.
˙ Knowing how to respond if your cat is injured, poisoned, or
suddenly ill can mean the difference between a full recovery
and death or permanent disability.
Part
5 More Ways to Enjoy

Your Cat
Most people probably think of a cat as a pet that provides compan-
ionship of the lap-warming variety—and strictly on his own terms.
But as I show you in Part 5, your relationship with your cat doesn’t
have to be limited to servitude (yours) and snuggling—although
that’s good, too!
First, I show you how you can train your cat through positive
reinforcement, and then I explain a few useful or entertaining com-
mands you can teach him. Whether you just want a new way to
interact with your feline friend or you want to dazzle your friends
and family, training can be lots of fun for you both.
Then I talk about traveling with your cat. Many people do—
some to move to a new home, others for vacations or other reasons.
Whatever your motive and your means of transport, I have all sorts
of tips for you. Finally, because you now know how to train and
travel, I tell you about some how you can compete with your cat in
cat shows and—if you really want a thrill—the new and growing
sport of cat agility. So grab your harness and your traveling shoes,
and let’s get going!
(Photo courtesy of Shelly Seybold)

Chapter
14
Advanced Kitty Training
In This Chapter
˙ Taking your cat for a walk
˙ Teaching your cat useful and fun commands
˙ Helping others with your feline volunteer
If lions and tigers and those cats we see on TV are trainable,

shouldn’t your cat be able to learn a few things, too? Of course! All
it takes is a little know-how, some time, and lots of patience. The
rewards (besides a whole lot of tasty treats for your cat) are plenti-
ful. You will have a more confident cat who gets into less trouble
because his mind is engaged in learning new things, a stronger bond
of understanding between you and your cat, and a cool repertoire of
tricks to wow your friends and family. Even if all you teach your cat
to do is come when you call him, you’ll impress the heck out of
most people.
Positive Reinforcement, Step by Step

Cats seldom do things just to please us humans, but they are highly
motivated to please themselves. And one of the most pleasing things
188 Part 5: More Ways to Enjoy Your Cat
to many cats is a yummy tidbit, although some will also work for a
favorite toy or—rarely—scratching or petting. Keep in mind that
a reward has to be something your cat wants—if she has no interest
in the catnip mouse you find irresistibly cute, don’t use that as her
reward. A tiny, soft cat treat or teensy bit of chicken or fish might
also work. Whatever you use as a food reward should be very small
and soft so it goes down the hatch in a hurry and you can return
quickly to the task at hand. Of course, if your cat has special nutri-
tional needs, you’ll want to be sure his training treats won’t interfere
with his diet.
Cat Nip
In addition to using positive reinforcement, keep these cat-
training basics in mind:
˙ Several short sessions are better than one long one.
˙ Kittens learn very quickly, so start training as young as
possible—but remember that adults can learn, too!
˙ Have fun! If you get frustrated, quit for a while and come
back to training later.
˙ Work close to your cat. Put him on a raised surface, or
get down on the floor with him.
˙ Make your cat’s safety your top priority. Don’t ask her to
perform with hazardous props, or in a potentially danger-
ous environment, for instance.
Timing is another critical component of positive reinforcement

training. If you use a clicker correctly (see the appendix for informa-
tion on clicker training), your cat will learn that the “click” occurs
when she does what you want and then something good will follow.
You can also use a word (“Yes!” or “Good!”) instead of a clicker.
Whatever you use to tell her she got it right, she must also get the
reward within a second or two of the behavior you wanted
so she understands exactly what she did right. If you have to walk
across the room to get the treat or dig it out of your pocket, you’ll
be too late. Suppose, for example, you want to teach your cat to
come when you call her. You say, “Felicity, come!” and she strolls
Chapter 14: Advanced Kitty Training 189
toward you. While you’re fumbling in your pocket for a treat, she
strolls right on past you. You brush the lint off the treat and toss it
on the floor in front of her. What did you reward her for doing? For
walking away from you! Be sure your treats are handy before you
begin training, and get the reward to your cat as quickly as possible,
especially when she’s learning something new.
When you teach a complex behavior, break it down into its parts
and teach each part step by step. Let’s say you want to teach your cat
to spin to the left. You might do this by shaping, a process in which
you reward your cat when he does something that can be part of the
behavior you eventually want. Purists will wait for the animal to do
something (say, turn his head to the left) and reward that, gradually
insisting on his turning farther and farther until he turns all the way
around to get the reward. If you’re not that patient, you can lure
your cat by slowly moving his reward in the direction you want him
to go while you tell him “Spin!” and asking for a little more move-
ment each time. You can eventually remove the reward until after he
makes the complete turn.
(Photo courtesy of Ayala Naor)
You can use a clicker as a way to tell your

cat when she’s done what you want as
Panda here knows very well.
When you’re teaching your cat a new behavior, reward her

every time she does it correctly. This is called continuous reinforce-
ment and should be used only until your cat is responding reliably
to the command. Then shift to intermittent reinforcement, rewarding
her only part of the time and reducing the frequency of the rewards
over time. Don’t establish a pattern; your cat is smart enough to fig-
ure out that she gets the goody every other time or every third or
fourth time, and she’ll eventually respond only the second or third
or fourth time you give the command. Why waste the effort? she’ll
think. Intermittent rewards delivered on a variable schedule are
much more powerful motivators—that’s the principle behind slot
machines and the reason people play them. If you win every time
you play, it gets boring. But if you never know when you’ll win, the
hope that you’ll hit the jackpot next time keeps you coming back for
more. The same goes for your cat. Be sure to praise her every time
she performs the behavior you ask for, but make her wonder when
the next reward is coming. You can even give her two in a row occa-
sionally, or skip a few and then give several tidbits all at once. She’ll
keep playing your game as long as you’re there to deal out com-
mands and rewards.
Consistency is also essential for training. Always use the same
word for the same behavior and only for that behavior. If one time
you say “Spin” and the next time “Turn left,” your cat will become
confused. If more than one person will be training your cat or hav-
ing him perform, be sure everyone uses the same words.
Finally, take advantage of training opportunities throughout
the day. When you feed your cat, have him perform one or two
behaviors first, then give him his food as a reward. If he wants you
to dangle his feather wand for him to bat or give him his catnip
mouse, have him first perform a trained behavior or two. That
way the “fancy training” will become a normal part of life, and life
together will be a lot more interesting for both of you.
Teaching Your Cat to Come When Called

Having a cat who comes when called is great fun and will impress
your friends and family members who think cats can’t be trained. It
can also be a lifesaver in an emergency or if your cat gets lost. If
you’re consistent from the start, “Come” isn’t a difficult concept to
teach, either, but a few important principles apply if you want your
cat to come reliably when you call.
First, always use the same word, along with your cat’s name.
For example, you might say, “Felix, here!” But if one time you say
“here,” the next time “come,” the next time “get over here,” poor
Felix will have a hard time figur-
ing out what you want him to do. Cat Nip
Second, strive to make com- You can train cats to
ing to you a pleasant experience— come to a sound, like
a bell or whistle, and that’s fine
always! If your boss only ever as long as you can find the
called you to her office to give you thing that makes the right noise.
nasty assignments or cut your pay, The advantage of using a word
how happily would you respond to call your cat is that you
when she called? So if you need always have it with you, and
your cat already associates
your cat for something he doesn’t your voice with food, play, and
enjoy, don’t call him. Go get him cuddles.
instead.
Finally, and especially while your cat is learning what “come”
means, never call him when he’s doing something he likes and you
can’t be sure he’ll come. Training is a process of forming new habits.
If you ensure that your cat will come when called because what you
offer is the best thing going at the moment, then through repetition,
he’ll develop the habit of coming when you call him. But if you call
him when he’s eating something yummy or watching birds at the
feeder right outside the window, he’ll probably ignore you. People
sometimes say an animal who ignores a command hasn’t learned
anything. On the contrary, he’s learned that when you say “Come,”
you mean “Come if you feel like it and there’s nothing more inter-
esting to do, in which case, feel free to ignore me”! Eventually, if the
habit of coming when called is well enough established, your cat will
probably come when you call even if he’s interested in something
else. But that kind of reliability in a trained animal results only when
the trainer is reliably able to reinforce the results she wants and
expects.
How can you reinforce the results you want? Apply the princi-
ples of positive reinforcement discussed earlier in this chapter. If you
want to train your cat to come when you call, you need to reward
him when he does. He probably already comes running when he
hears the sounds of kitty dinner being prepared. Use that behavior
to your advantage. Just before you open the can or pour the food,
say “Felix, come!” and then make the food noise. He’ll quickly learn
that when he hears the word “come,” the next thing he’ll hear will
be the lovely sound of dinner. After a few sessions, call your cat and
delay the “food noise” until he arrives, then praise him, stroke him,
and prepare and serve his food. He’ll soon associate coming when
called with all things good.
When Felix comes reliably when you call him for meals, you
can start teaching him to come when called at other nonmeal times.
Have your training treats ready, and start within sight of your cat,
preferably only a few feet away at first. Call his name. If he’s really
well conditioned to coming for dinner, he’ll probably respond to
his name by coming to you. If so, praise him and give him a treat.
Then move a few feet away and do it again. Do only two or three
of these at a time, and quit while he still wants more. If he doesn’t
come when you call, don’t yell or punish him. Move a little closer
and try again. If that doesn’t work, go back to meal-time training
for a while, then try again. If you are consistent and patient, pretty
soon your cat will come running whenever you call.
Hissss
If you want your cat to come when you call him, never call
him when you need to do something he won’t like, such as
pack him up for a trip to the vet or give him a bath. Make
coming to you always a safe and pleasurable thing to do.
Leash Training
As we’ve learned elsewhere in this book, your cat will be safer and
live longer if she lives indoors or if she’s safely confined when she’s
out, whether for a little fresh air
in the backyard or a trip across
Cat Nip
the country. Of course, you can
It’s fairly easy for a cat
use fenced enclosures and carriers
to slip his head out of
to keep your cat out of harm’s way, a collar. A properly fitted har-
but you can also train her to at ness is much more secure.
least tolerate a harness and possi-
bly even enjoy a stroll on a leash.
Use the principles of positive reinforcement to make harness
and leash training easier and less frightening. First, leave the harness
and leash where your cat can see and sniff them. Praise him and
reward him for sniffing and touching them. Once he seems to be
comfortable with them, begin putting the harness on him. Some
cats never raise any fuss at all, and if yours is calm from the start,
go ahead and put the harness all the way on and fasten it. If he’s not
so pleased about it, go more slowly. Put his head through the head
opening, praise and reward, then remove it. Repeat this step over
several sessions until he seems comfortable with it. Then move on
to fastening the body strap, praise and reward, then remove the har-
ness. As he gets more comfortable with this step, leave the harness
on for a little while. Praise him, and reward him occasionally while
he’s wearing the harness. Important: Don’t praise or reward him for
having the harness taken off! Be very quiet and matter-of-fact about
removing it.
When your cat is used to wearing the harness, attach the leash
and let him drag it around. Do this only when you can supervise
him—you don’t want him getting snagged by the leash! When he’s
okay with the leash dragging behind, pick up the handle end and let
him get used to feeling tension on the end. If he fights the leash,
ignore him and stay calm and quiet. When he stops fighting, praise
and reward. When that step has been mastered, walk around the
house with your cat on the leash, praising and rewarding him for
walking with you. Finally, take your cat outdoors. Start in a rela-
tively quiet place if possible—maybe your backyard—and keep the
initial outings brief. Be sure you have a good grip on the leash—you
don’t want to be chasing your cat or calling the fire department to
get him out of a tree if something frightens him and he tries to bolt.
Some cats never really enjoy walks on leash, but some do learn
to like their outings. If yours likes to walk, have fun. You’ll undoubt-
edly be the talk of the neighborhood.
Useful Commands and Parlor Tricks

If you find that you and your cat really enjoy training and learning
new things, what you teach will be limited only by time and your
imagination. I’ll give you a few ideas to get you started—some use-
ful, some just fun. If you want more, the appendix provide resources
for more ideas. If you really get hooked, please send me some pic-
tures or, better yet, a video of you and your performing cat!
Sit and Down

To teach your cat to sit on command, put a treat in one hand, hold
it directly over your cat’s nose, and slowly move it slightly up and
backward while telling him “Sit.” Don’t lift the treat too high, or
he’ll try to stand up to get it. You might need to gently guide his
rear end down into the sit position. Don’t push; just guide. The
instant his fanny hits the floor, give him the treat. As he comes to
understand the “Sit” command and respond reliably, you’ll be able

to move the food away and use it as a reward rather than a lure.
To teach your cat to lie down, hold a treat directly in front of
him at floor level. As he puts his nose down to sniff, gently guide
his shoulders and then his rear end down, and praise and reward
him when he’s lying all the way down. You might need to shape this
in stages, rewarding him first for sniffing, then for lowering his
front end (which you can also teach separately as a bow or “Say
your prayers” command), and eventually for lowering his whole
body to the floor.
Targets, Touches, and Hand Tricks

Cats are naturally inclined to touch things with their paws, so it’s
relatively easy to teach them to shake hands or wave or do other
cute paw things.
Begin by teaching your cat a touch command. Put your hand or
an object in front of your cat, and when she touches it with her paw,
praise and reward her. Do this a number of times. When you’re sure
she’s going to touch it, say “Touch” or “Target” and reward her for
touching. Once she learns to touch the target on command, you can
shape all sorts of specific behaviors.
For instance, have your cat sit in front of you and then hold
your hand in front of him. He might lift his paw immediately, or
you might need to tell him “Touch.” When he lifts his paw to touch,
say “Shake.” Gently take his paw, shake it, then praise and reward
him.
Another crowd pleaser is “patty cake” or “high five/high ten.”
Hold your hand slightly higher than your cat’s head, and say
“Touch.” As he reaches up to touch your hand, give your new
command (“High five,” “Patty cake,” or whatever). Teach each
hand separately, then put them together.
(Photo courtesy of Sue Gilsdorf)
You can teach your cat all sorts of

fun behaviors with a little patience
and positive reinforcement, as this
high-fiving kitty shows.
Fetching and Other Fun

Most cats, especially young ones, will chase moving objects, and
some are natural retrievers—you throw a toy or ball of paper, and
they fetch it back to you. You can train your cat to do this on com-
mand by—as always—offering a reward when she brings you some-
thing. The reward may be another toss of the toy, and for some cats,
that’s enough. Be sure you quit while your cat still wants to play,
though. Don’t keep throwing the toy until she’s bored with it. When
she retrieves reliably on command, you can combine fetching with
other commands and have her jump through a hoop or over a bar,
get the toy, and jump back. Great fun!
Fair warning if you plan to try training your cat: it’s addictive.
When you both get the hang of training and learning, you’ll be
trying new things all the time. Why not roll over? Crawl? Cover
your eyes? Absolutely, why not? Training will improve your ability to
communicate with your cat and understand him, as well as make
the bond between you stronger. Besides, it’s a lot of fun!
Therapy Cats
If you and your cat both like people and enjoy volunteering, you
might enjoy participating in animal assisted activities (AAA) or animal
assisted therapy (AAT). Whether they’re household pets of unknown
ancestry or purebred show cats from a long line of champions, all
therapy cats are friendly and enjoy meeting people; reliable in strange
environments; take things in stride; and like being petted, smooched,
hugged, and talked to by all sorts of people. What exactly does a
therapy cat do during a visit? Sometimes he just sits or lies quietly,
being stroked or listening while someone talks or reads to him.
Sometimes he visits schools or libraries to help children learn about
humane care of animals or to encourage them to read better. He
might “assist” a therapist who works with disabled children or visit
patients in pediatrics, oncology, and other hospital wards, including
hospice centers.
Purrfect Words
The term therapy cat (or therapy animal) is a convenient way
to refer to a cat who works with people in two distinct types of
situations. Animal assisted activities (AAA) are those in which
the animal visits people in various circumstances (nursing homes,
literacy and reading programs, hospitals, schools) but without a
professional therapist involved in the visit, and no formal meas-
urements are made of the effects of the visits. Animal assisted
therapy (AAT) refers to visits in which the volunteer animal and
handler work with a professional (therapist, teacher, doctor) and
in which formal records are kept of the effects of the visits.
Therapy cats don’t require intensive training, but they must

have some basic training and be reliable. Most therapy cats also
know commands such as “Stay” and “Down.” Some also know some
smile-getting tricks (see “Useful Commands and Parlor Tricks”).
The Delta Society tests and certifies cats for AAA and AAT
through its Pet Partners Program (see the appendix ). Many institu-
tions welcome visits from uncertified animals, but there are advan-
tages to making your cat “official.” The Delta program provides you
with some essential education about the people and environments
you’ll visit. Certification also gives your cat and you more credibility
and some independent assurance that your cat has the temperament
and training needed to make his visits successful. Certification and
membership in Delta also provide you with insurance to cover any
accidental damage your cat might cause during visits.
(Photo courtesy of Lee Gaffney)
Therapy cats such as Oscar bring joy

and comfort to the people they visit.
Cat-and-handler teams sometimes work alone and some-

times with one or two other teams, which include cats, dogs,
or other animals. Recreation directors in nursing homes and
other facilities are often delighted to make space on the
calendar for AAA visits, so it’s usually not very hard to find a “work
place” close to home. If you’d rather not make visits by yourself
(with your cat, of course!), look for a local therapy group. Some hos-
pitals and nursing homes have their own programs and welcome
new volunteers. Many obedience and kennel clubs have therapy
groups, and although their emphasis will be on dogs, some might
welcome a feline visitor. Of course you’ll want to be sure any dogs
who visit when you do are cat tolerant and that your feline friend is
okay with dogs.
It’s easy to get caught up in the emotional rewards of sharing
our marvelous pets with people in unfortunate circumstances. Your
cat will probably tell you if he isn’t enjoying the visits, but please
be alert to signs that he’s overly stressed by a particular environment
or by visiting in general. Some animals enjoy certain kinds of visits
but not others, and some become bored or unhappy. A short break
might be all it takes to cheer him up again, or he might need to
retire from volunteer work. Doing “good works” is a wonderful
thing, but in the end, your first obligation in AAA/AAT work is to
your own animal. (Photo courtesy of Laura Barber)
This lovely and well-behaved Exotic knows she deserves to be pampered!


˙ Positive reinforcement is the most powerful tool you can use
when training your cat.
˙ Walking on a leash lets your cat see the world while staying
safe.
˙ You and your cat can both have fun while learning new things.
˙ Your friendly, well-adjusted cat might enjoy working as an
animal volunteer.
15
Chapter
Cats (and Cat Owners)

on the Prowl
In This Chapter
˙ Packing for your cat
˙ Planning for a safe journey
˙ Finding a sitter
˙ Moving your cat to a new home
Your cat can travel with you. He might not be happy about it, al-
though some cats do learn to enjoy being out and about with their
people. Even if your feline friend never becomes a great fan of
traveling, though, with some advance preparation, you can make it
possible to take him with you. Let’s look at some ways you can make
traveling with your cat safer and more comfortable.
Preparing to Travel
The first priority when traveling is to keep your cat healthy.
Changes in food or water can cause digestive upsets, especially when
combined with the stress of traveling, so take your cat’s regular food
along unless you’re sure you’ll be able to purchase her brand wher-
ever you’re going. If you won’t be gone too long, take water from
home, or buy drinking or distilled water along the way. Don’t forget
to pack bowls for food and water. Feed your cat lightly before and
during a trip, but do offer water at regular intervals. A couple ice
cubes in a bowl will give your cat access to water while minimizing
the risk of spills.
Be sure your cat’s collar fits well, and attach his up-to-date and
readable identification tag, rabies tag, and license to it. Include
on the tag your name, address, and telephone number(s) along with
the words Call Collect. If you have room, include your cat’s name, the
word Reward, and your e-mail address.
You can get temporary tags from pet supply stores, and the
write-on tags used to identify keys also work well. If you plan to be
somewhere other than home or your destination for a few days or
if you’re in transit during a move, you might consider attaching a
tag with your temporary address to your cat’s collar. Include, for
instance, your name, where you’re staying and the phone number,
the dates you’ll be there, and your cell phone or pager number.
Consider including the name and number of a friend or relative
who will be home while you’re on the road. Of course, your cat’s
permanent tag should remain on the collar. You might also want
to consider having your cat microchipped for permanent
identification (see Chapter 6).
Pack a harness and leash, and be sure the harness fits properly.
Keep in mind that a feline escape takes only a split second. Either
lock your cat into her carrier, or put on her harness and hold onto
the leash before opening a door or hatch. It’s a good idea to pack an
extra harness and leash—they always break or get lost at the most
inconvenient times.
Chapter 15: Cats (and Cat Owners) on the Prowl 203

A secure harness and a leash will keep your cat safely attached to you when
you’re out and about together.
Pack first-aid supplies for your cat (see Chapter 13), and if he’s
on medication, pack enough for the trip. Some states require proof
of rabies vaccination, so keep a copy of his rabies certificate (his tag
won’t be enough) and vaccination record in a safe place. You might
want to check the regulations of states you’ll be entering; some also
require an up-to-date health certificate for animals entering from
another state or country (see also “Cats Without Borders: Inter-
national Travel”).
If your cat likes toys, pack a few of his favorites. Don’t forget
litter, a litter box, a scoop, and plastic bags for disposing of used
litter!
People sometimes ask whether they should tranquilize their
cats for travel. Generally tranquilizers aren’t necessary, and they can
create more problems than they solve. Individual cats react differ-
ently to drugs, and some actually become more agitated when
given a tranquilizer. Tranquilizers also diminish the body’s ability
to regulate its own temperature, increasing the risk of hyper- or
hypothermia. Most cats will settle down rather quickly in the secu-
rity of the carrier. If you do decide to use a tranquilizer, get one
from your veterinarian and test your cat’s reaction to it a few days
before you plan to travel.
Automobile Safety
Most cats don’t like car rides much, but even if you don’t take Felix
on trips, he will probably have to ride in a car at least once in a
while, even if only to go to the vet. Whether you’re driving from
sea to shining sea or just a mile to the vet, the safest way for your
cat to travel is in a secure carrier, preferably a hard plastic one with
washable bedding for comfort.
A nervous cat will feel more secure in an enclosed space and
could be a serious hazard loose in the car. Some cats also vomit
when transported by car, either from motion sickness or, more
likely, sheer nerves. Cleanup is much less arduous if the mess is con-
fined to a carrier, and a hard plastic one with removable bedding is
the easiest to clean.
Cat Nip
If you’re involved in an accident, a cat carrier will protect your
cat from injuries on impact and keep him secure afterward.
You don’t want your frightened cat slipping out an open door
to disappear or be hit on the road. If you’re injured, your cat will
be safe until someone can take charge of him.
You can also find soft carriers, which look like duffel bags with
ventilation. They’re really designed for air travel in the cabin (see
“Trains and Boats and Planes”) and don’t afford any protection
other than control in an accident.
A kitty seatbelt—a harness arrangement that fastens to the car’s
seatbelt—is a reasonably good alternative to a carrier for some cats;
although, again, it won’t provide much protection. Most cats prefer
the security of a carrier.
Whether it’s a 20-minute errand or a 2-week vacation, before

you decide to take your cat with you in the car, consider that you
cannot leave her in a closed car in warm weather while you go off to
eat, shop, or play. The temperature in a closed car can rise to lethal
levels within only a few minutes.
Try sitting in a closed car with the
MeowWOW
window just cracked. Uncomfy? It
When the outside tem-
will be worse for your cat, who perature is 78°F, a
can’t cool her body as efficiently as closed car will reach 90°F in
you can. Hyperthermia, or over- 5 minutes and 110°F in 25
heating, can be fatal. If you won’t minutes. Even a few minutes in
be able to stay with your cat or a hot car can kill your cat or
cause irreversible damage.
take her out of the car with you,
leave her safe at home.
Cats and Public Transport

Many cats fly around the United States and abroad every year. Some
are on their way to new homes, and many travel with their families
for one reason or another. If your cat is traveling with you and fits
into a carrier that will slide under the seat, he can usually travel in
the cabin with you. Otherwise, he’ll have to travel in the hold as
cargo.
Each airline has its own rules, MeowWOW
and not all airlines accept pets, so More than 500,000
check the requirements, prices, animals are shipped
restrictions, etc. before you book a annually by air, according to
the Air Transport Association.
flight. Find out whether your cat
Problems, including missed
needs a reservation—many airlines flights, lost pets, and deaths,
allow only one pet in the cabin per occur in about 1 percent of the
flight, so a reservation might be shipments.
critical.
If he’s going cargo, your cat will need a health certificate issued
by a veterinarian within 10 days prior to the flight, and he might
need one even if he flies in the cabin. The health certificate must
meet the requirements of the states or nations of departure and
destination and of the individual airline. The certificate will be fas-
tened to your cat’s carrier for transport, but keep copies of the cer-
tificate and your cat’s rabies and other vaccination records with you
as well. A temperature acclimatization statement is often required as
well, so check with the airline or have your veterinarian include the
statement on the health certificate. Pets cannot fly as cargo when
the outside temperature is too high or too cold at either end of the
flight, so check the temperature restrictions, especially in summer
and winter.
Try to fly nonstop direct flights. Second best is a direct flight
(which might have stops on the way) so your cat won’t have to
change planes. “Counter-to-counter” service, which goes by differ-
ent names with different airlines, is highly recommended. It costs
more than straight cargo, but your cat will be loaded onto the air-
plane closer to departure time and off-loaded faster at the destina-
tion. He’ll be hand-carried from one plane to the next rather than
sent with the luggage and other cargo.
The airline will attach information to your carrier if your cat is
going as cargo, but whenever I ship an animal, I also attach a state-
ment to the top of the carrier say-
Hissss ing, for instance, “Hello. My name
If your cat is flying cargo, is Fluffy. I’m going to my new
do not put a lock on the home in City, State. I might be a
carrier door. Secur-ity regula- little scared, so please be gentle
tions require airline personnel to with me.” When the animal in the
check inside the carrier, and in
carrier has a name, I think he
an emergency, airline personnel
may need to get to your cat. If becomes more important to the
you want a little extra security, baggage handlers who load and
run a small bungee cord from unload him from the airplane. It
the door to a side vent. can’t hurt!
Planes get delayed, so pack one or two portions of food in sealed

sandwich bags just in case. For a “carry-on cat,” you can carry the
food. For a “cargo cat,” tape the bags to the top of the carrier. Use
clear packing tape so airline personnel can see what’s in the bag.
Feed your cat lightly and give her water about 4 hours before depar-
ture, and offer her access to a disposable litter box as close to flight
time as possible.
Your cat will be much safer in a well-made carrier when traveling or during
stressful times at home.
Cats Without Borders: International Travel

Before you decide to take your cat on the grand tour, be aware that
many countries and also Hawaii have mandatory quarantine periods
of up to 6 months. Unless you will be staying a long time, it’s usu-
ally better to leave your cat safely at home in these cases. Quaran-
tine laws have been changing over the past few years, so it’s essential
to get up-to-date information. Don’t rely on secondhand informa-
tion. Contact the appropriate government agency in the country or
state you plan to visit for their cur-

Cat Nip rent regulations. And don’t try to
Train and bus pet poli- slip your cat past a quarantine.Doing
cies vary, and travel in so will probably mean his life.
railroad passenger cars and on
buses is generally not an option Even if there is no quarantine,
for American pets. Regulations most countries and airlines will
in some European countries are require your cat to have a current
more accommodating, but if
international health certificate.
you plan to take your pet
abroad, check all regulations Don’t wait until the last minute
governing importation of ani- to arrange it. Not all veterinarians
mals before you go. have the certificates in their of-
fices, and in some cases, a United
States Department of Agriculture
veterinarian will have to sign the
certificate.
Lodging for People and Cats

Many motels and some bed and breakfasts allow pets, but not all do.
Verify the pet policy when you make reservations, even if the lodg-
ing is listed in a “pet-friendly” directory (see the appendix). Policies
change, and some places require a deposit or charge an additional
fee for pets.
Try not to let your cat cause damage to the room, and if she
does, report it and offer to pay for it. If we all behave responsibly,
our pets will remain welcome wherever we take them. Bring your
cat’s carrier in and let her sleep in it—it’s a little bit of home in a
strange place. If you need to leave your cat in the room when you’re
out for a short time, secure her in her carrier. If you’ll be gone more
than an hour or so, you might leave her in the bathroom with her
litter box and water—be sure to leave a note on the door to alert
housekeeping staff not to open the bathroom door. Also consider
bringing a couple sheets or blankets from home to cover the bed
and upholstered chairs before you allow your cat onto them—the
next guest might not be as tolerant of cat hair as you are.
If your cat is young, don’t leave him with access to the toilet
unless it has a lid you can close. More than one curious kitten has
fallen into a toilet and drowned. In fact, if you’re traveling with a
kitten, consider using a folding cat cage that’s large enough to
accommodate a litter box as well as food and water. It will keep
him—and the motel rooms—safer.
When Felix Can’t Go

Although some cats travel well, most really don’t enjoy globe-
trotting. If you’re going to be gone only a day or two and your cat
free feeds and has no special care needs, you might be able to leave
him alone with plenty of food, water, and litter. But if you’ll be gone
longer or if your cat needs medication or can’t free feed, you’ll need
to make other arrangements. Whether you choose to board him or
hire a pet-sitter to come in, make reservations as much ahead of
time as possible. Good caretakers are often booked months in ad-
vance for busy travel seasons.
Finding a Boarding Kennel

Many boarding kennels accept cats, and many veterinary hospitals
offer boarding for client’s pets. If your cat requires special care due
to medical problems, consider boarding your cat at the vet’s when
you travel. Good boarding kennels can handle most routine support
for cats with special needs, too. Consider your cat’s overall comfort,
the quality of care and attention he’ll receive, and how long he’ll be
boarded. Some cats find the atmosphere of a veterinary facility very
stressful, so a boarding kennel that accepts or specializes in cats
might be better.
Ask your family, friends, and veterinarian for good boarding
facility recommendations. Before you make a reservation, ask for
a tour. The facilities should be clean and reasonably free of odors.

Cats should be boarded separately from dogs and should have no
physical contact with their neighbors. Find out who will handle your
cat and who else will have access to him.
Cat Nip
If you’re leaving your cat in someone else’s care, let your vet-
erinarian know that you’ll be gone for a while and that you’ll
be responsible for the bill if your cat needs medical care while
you’re gone. Be sure your kitty’s caretaker knows where the vet is
and about the arrangement as well.
Find out how often cages or rooms and litter boxes are cleaned
and whether they’re disinfected between boarders. Cages should
have good, paw-proof latches and doors that fit properly and should
be in good repair. The cages should be in a closed room that will
contain your cat if he does slip out of the cage. Also ask about secu-
rity against theft or vandalism.
Disease prevention should be a high priority for any boarding
facility. Food and water bowls should be cleaned and sterilized daily.
If your cat has special dietary needs, be sure they can be met. Good
boarding facilities require that their guests be vaccinated against
common communicable diseases, so find out which vaccinations
they require and ask your vet whether she recommends any vaccines
your cat doesn’t usually receive.
Cat Nip Guests will also be expected to be
Some facilities offer free of fleas, so ask the facility
extras—more cuddles, manager about flea control. If your
more play times, daily brushing, cat is already on a flea control
a bath before going home, etc. product, be sure that is noted in
Before you decide, ask what
her records and that she won’t be
the basic boarding fee covers.
Sometimes the extras aren’t treated without your permission—
worth the extra charge. combining flea products or over-
dosing with one can be lethal!
Ask about arrangements for veterinary care in case your cat

becomes ill or injured while you’re gone. Ask, too, about emergency
procedures. Someone should be on-site at night and on weekends in
case of fire or other catastrophe. If you’re not comfortable with the
quality of care, take your cat elsewhere.
Be sure to note the hours for drop-off and pick-up, and be sure
there will be no problem if you’re delayed for some reason. If you’re
like most pet owners, you’ll want to check on your cat, so ask about
a convenient time for staff to take calls.
Sometimes your cat might just be happier at home, as this sweet

calico kitten obviously is.
Finding an At-Home Cat-Sitter

Most cats prefer to stay at home, so many traveling cat owners find
that a pet-sitter is a better choice than a boarding facility. Usually
the sitter visits the home a specified number of times each day,
although some can be hired to stay full-time, sitting not just your
cat but also your home, plants, newspapers, and mail. To find a
qualified pet-sitter, ask your veterinarian and friends for recommen-

dations.
When you’ve narrowed your choices, interview the prospective
sitters in your home to be sure she and your cat are comfortable
with one another. Find out how often and when she will visit. Find
out what she’s willing to do with your cat—give medication, play
and cuddle, groom, etc.—and what other tasks she’s willing to take
on. Ask about her experience both with cats and as a pet-sitter, and
get references. Find out whether she’s bonded and whether she’s
affiliated with one of the national pet-sitters’ organizations. Discuss
emergency procedures. Does her vehicle look well maintained and
reliable? Will she transport your cat to a vet if necessary?
It’s essential that you feel good about the sitter you hire, for
your cat’s well-being and your own peace of mind.
Moving With Your Cat

An astonishing number of cats are turned in to shelters every year
because the owners are moving. Sometimes that’s an excuse when
the real reason is a behavior problem the owners can’t (or don’t want
to try to) resolve. But sometimes people really are moving and have
the mistaken idea that a cat can’t
Hissss be transported across the country
Even the best shelter envi- or won’t adjust to a new home. I
ronment is stressful for an don’t know how those ideas came
animal, and the odds of any about, but both are incorrect. We
individual animal finding a new have moved 3 times in the past 13
home are very, very small. For
most cats, being turned in to a years, and Malcolm, Mary, Kitty,
shelter is a death sentence. and Leo (and the dogs!) moved
along with us.
Moving can be stressful, and individual cats, like people, handle
it differently. Some adjust quickly, while others might take several
weeks to feel completely at home. Still, with patience and a few
precautions, your cat will soon be as comfy in your new digs as she
was in the old. Let’s see how we can make moving more feline
friendly.
When moving day arrives, be sure your kitty is in a secure place.
The hubbub of loading up your belongings will make even you want
to run away. Your cat might actually give in to the temptation, so
don’t give him the chance to take off and get lost or injured. Lock
him in a room with a “Do Not Open” sign on the door. Better yet,
put him in his carrier in a relatively quiet area. Be sure he has water,
and every 2 or 3 hours take the carrier into a closed room and let
him out, to use the litter box and spend a little time with you, snug-
gling and being reassured. Keep him secure in a carrier for the move
itself. If it’s a long trip, be sure you have food, water, and a litter box
for him.
When you arrive at your new home, keep your cat secure until
the movers have left and things quiet down a bit. Then set up her
food, water, and litter box. Place the carrier nearby and open the
door, but don’t force her to come out. Some cats will march into
their new surroundings and begin to explore right away, while oth-
ers will hunker down in the carrier and study the situation for a
while. When she realizes that the same familiar people and furnish-
ings are still part of her world, she’ll begin to accept the situation.
If your cat is especially anxious, you might want to confine her to
one room when you aren’t home until she’s more settled, just as you
would a new cat.
If your cat is normally allowed to go outside, keep him in for
the first 4 to 6 weeks. It takes about a month for a cat’s “homing
instinct” to readjust to a new location, and if you let him out too
soon, he might get lost or even try to go back to your old home.

˙ Responsible behavior from all pet owners makes our pets
welcome wherever we go.
˙ Packing feline essentials makes travel safer and easier.
˙ Car safety applies to cats as well as to people.
˙ Your cat can fly the friendly skies if necessary.
˙ Sometimes your cat is better off staying at home.
˙ Your cat can adjust to a new home as well as the rest of the
family.
Chapter
16
Competitive Cats
In This Chapter
˙ Understanding what cat shows are all about
˙ Preparing to show your cat
˙ Mastering cat show etiquette
˙ Exploring cat agility
Most people have probably seen a dog show at some time, either
in person or on television, but cat shows are less familiar outside
the circle of cat fanciers. But if you love cats, there’s no better place
than a cat show to see a wide variety of stunning cats. And if tradi-
tional cat shows aren’t exciting enough for you and your feline
athlete, take a look at the new sport of cat agility!
Cat Shows!
One of the main purposes of cat shows is to provide for expert,
unbiased evaluation of purebred cats to help breeders maintain
high quality in breeding programs. A judge evaluates each cat
to determine how closely the ani-

Purrfect Words mal adheres to the breed standard,
A breed standard is a as well as to gauge the cat’s tem-
written description of perament, general health, and
the ideal cat of a particular grooming. Successful competitors
breed. If you plan to show cats, can earn titles and other special
learn your breed standard and
reread it often.
awards, depending on the particu-
lar show’s sponsoring organization.
Besides that, it’s fun!
Most cat shows divide into four categories of competition:
˙ Kittens include purebred kittens from 4 to 8 months old, intact
or altered.
˙ Championship is for registered, intact, purebred cats 8 months
and older, and is usually the largest, most competitive category.
˙ Premiership is for registered, altered, purebred cats 8 months
and older. Premiers are of the same high quality as champi-
onship cats but have been altered for a variety of reasons,
including the problems of living with intact felines (see Chap-
ters 11 and 17). Some are retired breeding cats who were previ-
ously shown successfully in championship classes.
˙ Household Pet (HHP) is primarily for altered, nonpurebred cats
who are judged strictly on beauty, health, and temperament.
Some registries award titles and other awards to HHPs; others
simply award rosettes at individual shows. The HHP class is a
good place to learn the ropes—and to have a lot of fun showing
off your lovely cat.
The Who and Where of Cat Shows

Several organizations sponsor cat shows in North America and
around the world (see the appendix for a list). Some sponsor shows
and other events for many breeds of cats, while others limit
Chapter 16: Competitive Cats 217
competition to a single breed or group of similar breeds. Each asso-

ciation has its own mission statement, rules, and procedures, which
you can find on its website or in informational literature available
from the club. Local cat clubs, which are often affiliated with the
national or international clubs, are also good sources of information.
Everyone starts somewhere, and it looks like this Cornish

Rex kitten is off to a great start on his show career.
Most cat shows are held on

Saturday and Sunday, although a Cat Nip
few are one- or three-day events. Find information about
You can find listings of upcoming cat shows and related
topics at the Cat Fanciers Cat
cat shows online as well as in club
Shows, Registries and Clubs
newsletters and in magazines such web page at www.fanciers.
as Cat Fancy and Cats. com/clubs.html.
Preparing to Show Your Cat

If you want to show cats, particularly purebred cats, the most im-
portant thing you can do is become educated about the breed you’re
interested in showing as well as about cats and shows in general.

Consider, too, joining a club—it’s a wonderful source of on-going
education and a great place to meet and socialize with other cat
lovers. Make friends and try to find a knowledgeable mentor. Attend
shows as a spectator, and watch and learn. Study your breed stan-
dard, and learn what qualities make for an excellent representative
of your breed, which faults are serious and which are more minor.
For example, if your cat is a non-standard color, or is cryptorchid or
monorchid, he will be disqualified from breed competition.
Purrfect Words
A cryptorchid is an adult male whose testicles have not
descended into the scrotum. A monorchid is an adult male
with only one testicle descended into the scrotum. Both condi-
tions are disqualifications in all associations, and cats with
retained (undescended) testicles are at risk for testicular cancer
and should be neutered. They should not be used for breeding.
If you want to show and possibly breed purebred cats, buy the
best-quality foundation animals you can afford. Quality begets more
quality, and trying to “breed up” from poor-quality animals is ex-
tremely difficult. Try to visit a number of high-quality catteries
before you get your cat so you can see many examples of the breed.
Ask breeders to explain the strong points as well as the faults of each
of their cats. You’ll probably be surprised at how critical a serious
breeder will be of his or her own beloved animals. Learning to
understand where your own cat could be better doesn’t mean you
love him any less. No individual animal is perfect, but when we
know what traits we need to improve, we have a much better chance
of doing so with future breedings.
Whether you plan to show a purebred or a Household Pet
(HHP), read the rules issued by the association sponsoring the show.
The rules vary from one organization to the next, and a cat who
would do fine in one might be disqualified in another. For instance,

your declawed HHP can be shown in The International Cat
Association (TICA) but not Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA) shows.
You’ll also want to learn the lingo so you won’t be struck dumb
when someone asks if your cat is “an open” (not yet a Champion)!
Don’t forget to prepare your cat for showing, too. To show well,
a cat needs to have a stable disposition and accept new situations and
people without fear or shyness. The best show cats are hams—they
enjoy the attention and seem to understand that it really is all about
them! Still, training and socialization make a big difference (see also
Chapters 5, 9, and 14), and serious exhibitors train their cats from
kittenhood to accept the ins and outs of showing. Learn how judges
handle cats of your breed, and teach your cat to accept that kind of
handling, first from you, then from other people (see Chapter 14 on
positive reinforcement training).
(Photo courtesy of Shelly Seybold)
This handsome Oriental Shorthair is being judged

against the standard for his breed.
The final “test,” of course, is an actual show. A cat who is out-

going and fearless at home might hate the show environment. Some
cats just need to go to a few shows to adjust to the routine, but
others will never learn to enjoy it. If your cat dislikes shows, he
won’t show well, no matter how gorgeous he is. Don’t force the
issue. After all, cat shows are for people. Your cat doesn’t give a
hoot about titles and ribbons (except maybe to swat at), and he’s
still your beautiful cat, win or lose.
Hissss
If you plan to show your cat, do not use a spray bottle of
water for remote corrections (see Chapter 10). Spray bottles
are in constant use at cat shows, for cleaning cages, tables,
and the judge’s hands between competitors and even for spritz-
ing cats’ coats before brushing. The last thing you want is a
show cat who freaks out when she hears a spray bottle.
Of course a show cat should be in prime health and condition.

He’ll be exposed to lots of cats, so for his protection and theirs, be
sure he’s up to date on vaccines and examinations. Many jurisdic-
tions require proof of current rabies vaccination as well. Have your
cat tested at least annually for feline leukemia, and if he’s had an
infectious disease, don’t take him or cats he’s been in contact with
to any shows for at least 3 weeks. Be sure he’s free of internal and
external parasites, too. (For more on health care, see Chapter 11.)
He should also be in good physical condition, carry the proper
weight for his breed and age, and show good muscle tone.
Grooming is also essential for the show cat. Her teeth should be
clean and white, her ears and eyes immaculate, and her claws, both
front and back, neatly trimmed. Most exhibitors bathe their cats
before showing, but exactly when an individual cat should be bathed
to look her best on the day of the show depends on the breed, the
coat length and type, and the individual cat. Ask your cat’s breeder
and other fanciers of your breed for advice about shampoos, groom-
ing tools, and timing. Some might react as if you’ve asked for state
secrets, but others will be generous with information, so learn from
them. Experiment well ahead of the show to learn what works best
for your cat.
MeowWOW
What does it cost to show cats? The entry fee for a single cat
for a 2-day show in the United States is about $35 to $50.
You’ll also pay a benching fee for cage space (usually $10
to $25, depending on the show and the size of the cage).
You’ll pay an additional $15 to $35 if you want extra groom-
ing space. Other expenses include your travel, food, and lodg-
ing. And of course there are always vendors selling cat-lover
necessities—T-shirts, toys, you name it!
When you’re ready to enter a show, contact the entry clerk, who
is listed in the premium list issued by the organization sponsoring
the show, for an official entry form. Be sure to get your entry in by
the closing date, which is usually about 2 weeks before the show.
Some shows reach their maximum number of entries soon after
entries open, so it’s a good idea to send in your entry form as early
as you can. If you have questions as you complete the form, refer to
the rules issued by the association sponsoring the show. If you can’t
find the answers there, refer to your cat’s breeder or check with the
show entry clerk. You should receive confirmation of your entry
before the show. Check it carefully, and if you find any errors, con-
tact the entry clerk immediately.
The Well-Appointed Show Cat

Deciding what to pack for your first cat show can be daunting.
I compiled the following list of items based on suggestions from
seasoned exhibitors, so consider each item carefully. Some might
seem obvious, but you’d be surprised how easy it is to forget some
basic piece of equipment in the preshow excitement, and you never

know when something might come in handy (and it isn’t always con-
venient to run to a store during a show!).
Consider this a basic checklist, and modify it according to your
own needs and preferences:
❏ Your cat and his carrier.
❏ Current rabies certificate—not just the tag—and proof of nega-
tive FeLV test.
❏ The letter confirming your entry.
❏ Cat food, dishes, and, if necessary, can opener, serving utensils,
lids, etc. You might want some cat treats, too.
❏ Drinking water from home or bottled drinking or distilled
water to avoid upsetting your cat’s tummy.
❏ Disposable or portable litter pan, litter, litter scoop, and plastic
bags for waste disposal.
❏ Grooming supplies appropriate for your cat (see Chapter 7).
Talk to your breeder and other fanciers for suggestions.
❏ A spray bottle of cat-safe disinfectant (if you’re not sure what’s
safe, ask your vet, and see Chapter 13) and paper towels.
❏ A first-aid kit (see Chapter 13).
❏ Cage furnishings—curtains made of washable fabric and binder
clips to fasten the curtain; floor covering (carpet, fake fur, fab-
ric, or a towel all work well); bed, shelf, or hammock for your
cat to lie on; a plastic curtain liner if you have a male who
sprays; a plastic or mesh curtain for the front of the cage to
keep people from touching your cat; and a small lock for the
cage door.
❏ Comfy shoes—you’ll do a lot of walking, often on concrete.
❏ A comfy chair—hours in a folding metal chair can make for a
very tired fanny!
And here are some other things that might not be essential but
can make the experience more comfortable or fun:
❏ Cage signs asking people not to touch your cat and also identi-
fying your cat, her breed, you, and your cattery name.
❏ Toys or feathers to entertain your cat.
❏ Duct tape, extra clips, bungee cords—you never know when
they might come in handy.
❏ A grooming table.
❏ A cooler of food and drinks, especially water, for you (most
show food is expensive and not exactly gourmet). It’s very easy
to get dehydrated at shows, so don’t forget to drink water
throughout the day. An occasional snack will also keep your
blood sugar stable so you don’t get woozy. Check the policies
of the show site before bringing in food and drinks. Some pro-
hibit carry-in food to protect their vendors. If that’s the case,
you can always have someone watch your cat for 10 minutes
and “sneak a snack” in your car. Or support the vendors to help
good show sites remain available!
❏ Photos of your cat, in frames or an album.
❏ If you have an active breeding program, you might want to take
some business cards (and consider giving just your phone num-
ber and/e-mail address so people have to contact you before
showing up at your door!).
❏ A wheeled cart and a plastic box or two for your stuff—it can
be a long walk from your parking spot.
At the Show
So here you are, ready to show your cat or watch cats being judged.
Now what? First, a judge will examine each cat at least once in regu-
lar classes. Then the judge will select the individuals he or she con-
siders the best in each category—Kitten, Premier, Champion, and
HHP. Those individuals go on to the finals ring, where the finalists

compete for points toward titles and for other awards. Titles are
awarded based on points accumulated for wins. The exact require-
ments vary among sponsoring organizations.
Cat Show Etiquette

Whether you’re at a show to compete or just to see all the beauti-
ful cats, it won’t hurt to have a handle on a few points of cat show
etiquette. If you’re there just to watch, remember that exhibitors
are there to compete, so be friendly and ask questions but respect
the competitors’ rights to focus on their own priorities. If you’re
there to show your cat, introduce yourself to others and don’t stick
to just your own breed. Use this chance to learn more about other
breeds, too, and build your network of friends and mentors in the
cat fancy.
If the judge asks you a question during judging, give a short,
direct answer. Don’t try to start a conversation with the judge in
or out of the ring. Of course, if you know the judge, it’s fine to say
hello, but anything more is inappropriate and potentially compro-
mising for you both, especially if the judge hasn’t yet finished judg-
ing your cat. After the judging is complete, you can ask for the judge
to evaluate your cat for your own further education. Some will
decline, so accept their answer—and their opinions of your cat—
gracefully.
Don’t touch anyone else’s cat without getting permission first.
People are very protective of their cats and rightfully so. Some will
give you permission to pet; some won’t. Some might let you pet
the cat but ask you to sanitize your hands first. Don’t take it per-
sonally!
Cats have to be moved around the show site, so if you see some-
one coming with a cat, yield the right-of-way. If you’re trying to get
your cat to the ring, ask for passage with a loud and happy “Excuse
us, cat coming through!” Some cats like to try it on their own, so if
you hear “Cat loose!” or “Cat out!” keep your eyes peeled for the
escapee. If you’re near an open door, close it to help corral the fugi-
tive. If you spot the cat, tell the owner; don’t try to pick the cat up
yourself.
Over, Under, Around, and Through—

Cat Agility!
Have you seen the fast-growing sport of dog agility on television or
been to a competition? It looks fun, doesn’t it? Well, it’s not just
limited to dogs—cats compete in agility, too!
In cat agility, the handler directs or lures the cat through tun-
nels, up and down ramps, over jumps, and through weave poles and
other obstacles. Although it’s a new sport, members of International
Cat Agility Tournaments (ICAT) say it’s growing. And they hope it
will catch on in much the same way dog agility has over the past
decade. Indeed, cat agility competitions are now being held across
the North America and in Europe.
(Photo by Bob Black)
Cat agility offers a chance for cats and their

people to show off their training—and have a lot
of fun, too!
Like all good training, agility provides a wonderful way to

strengthen the bond between cats and their owners. It also gives
participating cats a fun way to keep their bodies and minds in shape.
Tournaments can be serious competition—or not!—for owners, but
for the cats, they’re a chance to play on a wonderful new play-
ground.
To be successful in agility, your cat must have an outgoing, con-
fident personality; be in excellent health and physical condition; and
love to play. The sport is open to all kinds of cats, so it might be just
the thing for you and your feline athlete. Even if you aren’t ready to
participate, why not visit a tournament when the leaping, tunneling
cats come to town? It will certainly be a change of pace!
Most important of all, whatever kind of feline competition you
attend, whether you’re showing or just watching, enjoy it. Nobody
wins every time. Your cat still loves you, win or lose, and he deserves
the same from you in return. The day showing is no longer fun or
when winning becomes more important than your cat is the day to
find a new hobby or at least take a break for a while. The top cat is
always the one who loses and wins with equal grace.

˙ A number of organizations sponsor cat shows, each with its
own rules and procedures.
˙ Advance preparation will improve your cat show experience.
˙ Packing the right equipment and knowing what to do are
essential for safety and success.
˙ Cat agility offers an outlet for feline energy and intelligence—
and a lot of fun for everyone involved.
Part
6 The Circle of Life

In Part 6, we look at beginnings and farewells. I start by giving you
a realistic look at the biological, practical, and ethical issues related
to breeding cats—there’s a lot more involved than playing with cute
little kittens! Then we move to a discussion of your cat’s senior
years. With proper care, your cat can live to a ripe old age, and I
suggest a number of ways you can help your cat age gracefully over
many, many years. Finally, I talk about the final days of your cat’s
life. As the song says, endings always come too soon, but I hope
what I have to say will help you manage your farewells with a sense
of thanksgiving for the honor and joys of having lived with a cat.

Chapter
17
Feline Birds and Bees
In This Chapter
˙ Understanding the ins and outs of cat breeding
˙ Anticipating the behavior of an unaltered cat
˙ Preparing to welcome kittens
˙ Placing kittens in good homes
You love your cat, and several of your friends and relatives “want
one of her kittens.” And kittens are so darn cute—how hard can it
be to find them homes? Besides, it’s not as if you arranged the
mating—your kitty just came home pregnant one day. Or maybe
you have a purebred cat and your neighbor has another of the same
breed but the opposite sex. Why not “let them have a family”? It
will be fun, and the kids can learn about the miracle of birth. So
what’s the big deal?
Here’s the big deal: Each year, 6 to 8 million unwanted pets—
including cats—are killed in U.S. shelters. That’s 15,000 to 20,000
pets every day.
230 Part 6: The Circle of Life
Responsible breeding and placement of healthy, well-socialized

kittens is a labor of love and does not contribute to the pet overpop-
ulation problem. Haphazard breeding does. Think carefully before
you allow your cat to parent kittens, and if you do breed, do it
responsibly.
Before you take the plunge
and have kittens, please, please,
Cat Nip
please consider carefully the points
If you really want to
have the experience of covered in this chapter, and also
raising kittens but aren’t commit- reread Part 2. Then, if you really
ted to a quality breeding pro- want to breed cats, take the time to
gram, why not volunteer to learn about genetics, your chosen
raise a litter for a shelter or res-
cue program that has received
breed, pre- and post-natal health
a pregnant kitty? care, and the proper handling of
newborn and young kittens as well
as intact adult cats. Find an experi-
enced mentor, join a cat fancier’s club and an Internet discussion list
or two, read magazines and books, and educate yourself. Then make
the best decision for you and your family and most of all for your cat
and her kittens.
(Photo by Angus Lai)
Kittens are adorable—and a big responsibility.

Chapter 17: Feline Birds and Bees 231
Let’s be perfectly clear about something, though. Cats, for all

their formidable qualities, are not little four-footed people in fur
coats. They are cats, with their own feline needs and priorities. Your
cat doesn’t need to have kittens to be fulfilled, and he doesn’t need sex
to be happy. Your cat doesn’t dream of seeing his kittens pass on the
family name or of having grandkittens. If he or she is honored (okay,
worshipped) and cared for as a beloved member of your family, then
his or her dreams have already come true.
Chapters 10 and 11 address the ways in which altering (spaying
or neutering) benefits your cat’s behavior and health. If, after read-
ing those chapters, you still think you’d really like to have a litter
from your queen or let your tom sire kittens, please take a realistic
look at life with a sexually mature and intact feline.
First, there’s the intact queen. Behaviors and traits vary from one
individual to another, of course, but all of the following behaviors
and traits are possible in your cat, and most will be present to some
degree. In brief, you can look forward to frequent heat cycles, risky
fertile periods, mood and behavioral changes, false pregnancies,
unwanted all-too-real pregnancies, uterine infections, and visits
from all manner of suitor.
When your queen is in heat, you will need to prevent contact
between her and intact males you don’t want mating with her. Make
no mistake—queens and toms will overcome astonishing obstacles
when driven by the urge to procreate, so you’ll need maximum secu-
rity lockdown as long as she’s breedable. Tomcats from miles away
will come to court her if they can, and she’ll willingly accommodate
multiple males. She’ll also be thrilled by their midnight serenades
and their spraying of every vertical object in the area. (You and your
neighbors probably won’t be.)
Now, what about those wandering Casanova cats? Aside from
making “Ain’t No Mountain High Enough” their theme song when
they know of a queen in heat, what are they like the rest of the time?
Intact male cats are territorial, and, as discussed, they will mark the
boundaries of their territory and important points within it with

an unmistakably stinky spray of urine. They often fight with other
toms over territory and breeding rights, and they’re prone to wan-
dering in search of adventure and sex, which makes them likely to
die young, probably painfully, from accident, infection, animal
attack, or disease.
Living with an intact feline of either sex has serious and annoy-
ing drawbacks. It can even be dangerous to the cats themselves as
well as to other cats. Finally, but most important, the owner of a
sexually intact cat carries a serious moral burden. Whether you own
the queen or the tom, you—not your cat—are responsible for the life
and death of every kitten you allow your cat to produce.
The Sad Side of Breeding

If you’re ready, willing, and able to accept the responsibilities that
come with breeding, it’s time for another reality check. Most queens
deliver their kittens with no problems, but birth always presents
risks. The fact is, no matter how carefully you plan and no matter
how fine and healthy your queen, deliveries sometimes go horribly
wrong.
Kittens can be stillborn or die shortly after birth. Even more
heartbreaking are those who survive a few days or even weeks and
then die from congenital problems. Many of the same birth defects
occur in kittens as in human
babies, from cleft palates that
Purrfect Words
prevent proper nursing to missing
A congenital problem
is one that is present at or deformed organs to autoim-
birth. It might or might not be mune diseases. Kittens may also
inherited. A hereditary problem be severely injured during birth
is inherited, and although it is or shortly after. Sometimes the
present at conception, it might
damage, whether congenital or
not become apparent until long
after the kitten is born. acquired, is severe enough to make
adoption unlikely or to prevent the
kitten from living a normal, happy life. Are you prepared to have
deformed kittens humanely euthanized or to keep them and care for
them throughout their lives?
Delivery problems can threaten the life of your queen, too.
Sometimes a kitten is just too big or is positioned in such a way
that it can’t pass through the birth canal. Are you prepared for a
run to an emergency vet at 2 A.M. for a costly cesarean section? (An
emergency C-section can easily cost $500 to $1,200.) If not, you
could lose them all—the kitten, his unborn siblings, and your queen.
Even with the surgery, they can die. The odds are that your queen
and kittens will have no problems with the queening process, but
odds won’t matter if it’s your beloved companion and her kittens you
watch die.
Sometimes even kittens who are born healthy don’t make it.
They can be victims of viral and bacterial infections. If the environ-
ment isn’t warm enough, they can die of hypothermia. If it’s too
warm, they can dehydrate. Sometimes they just die for no discern-
able reason, which is a devastating thing to watch.
So before you have a litter, be sure you and your family can
accept that nothing is certain. Be sure you can live with death as
well as new life. Most important, ask yourself whether the kittens
you will produce and the quality of their lives as you pass responsi-
bility for them to other people will be high enough to risk losing the
cat you already love.
What Will the Parents Give to the Kittens?

Every kitten is highly complex individual system of strengths and
faults, each of which is inherited from the kitten’s parents and more
distant ancestors. Every egg and every sperm brings the potential
not only for a certain body structure, coat color, and temperament
but also for disease, deformity, and disaster. Genetics, the science of
inheritance, is a fascinating, complex, and rapidly changing science,
and recent developments in the

Cat Nip field have vastly expanded our
I assume that if you’re knowledge of how traits are passed
reading this book, the from parent to offspring as well as
cat you’re thinking of breeding our ability to make more responsi-
is a purebred; therefore, the fol-
ble decisions about breeding.
lowing comments pertain mostly
to the breeding of purebred Before you breed your cat,
cats. Of course, all cats are
have a person knowledgeable
prone to inherited and acquired
health problems. about the breed evaluate her to
help you determine her strengths
and weaknesses in terms of the
breed standard, including both her physical traits and her tempera-
ment. Knowing what she offers her kittens and what needs improve-
ment will help you select a stud who is strong where she is lacking
so you’ll be less likely to reproduce the weaknesses of either parent.
No individual is perfect, but responsible breeders try very hard to
come ever closer to perfection.
You should also use science, in the form of screening tests for
inherited problems common in your cat’s breed, to reduce the
chances of producing kittens with genetic disease. The same applies,
of course, to the stud you decide to use. Failure to use screening
tests to reduce the chances of producing kittens with serious inher-
ited health problems is irresponsible to the kittens, to their breed,
and to the people who buy them.
D-Day (Delivery Day)

The deed is long done, it’s been about 9 weeks, and it’s nearly time
for the kittens to arrive. Let’s get on with it!
Getting Organized
The average length of gestation for a litter of kittens is 63 days, but
breeders report births at various times from 60 to 69 days from the
first mating. Delivery can be a nerve-racking experience, whether it’s

yours or your cat’s. Well before her due date, put together a delivery
kit and keep it handy so you can grab it when you notice your cat
getting ready to deliver. You won’t want to be running around gath-
ering supplies while she’s birthing, Include the following in your kit:
˙ Plenty of clean, soft hand towels or face cloths for drying kit-
tens
˙ Disposable bedding for the delivery and washable bedding for
afterward
˙ Hemostat
˙ Scissors
˙ Iodine
˙ Alcohol, cotton swabs, and cleaning supplies
˙ Heating pad and/or heat lamp
˙ Bulb aspirator
˙ Scale that measures weight in very small units
˙ Notebook and pen or pencil
˙ Camera
˙ Box or carrier (bottom only, or with an open top, so the mama
can get in and out)
˙ Medical supplies (Speak with your vet about having oxytocin to
stimulate contractions as well as any other supplies you might
need.)
˙ Telephone numbers and addresses for your own veterinarian
and the closest 24-hour emergency vet.
Labor and Birth

Most cats deliver their kittens without incident, and most are excel-
lent mothers. A few need a little time to figure things out with the
first litter, but they generally settle into motherhood very nicely.
There are some differences among breeds, so talk to your cat’s
breeder and remember that individual moms vary.
Many breeders recommend caging a queen for the big event to
prevent her giving birth in some odd spot or carrying her kittens all
around the house. If your cat isn’t used to being caged, get her used
to the idea at least 2 weeks before her due date. Feed her in the
cage, and close her in for a few hours a day, eventually leaving her
there for the night and when you’re not home, especially for the last
few days before she delivers. Be sure she has a litter box and water
available.
Some cats give clear signals when they’re getting close to deliv-
ering; others are less obvious. Some skip a meal before queening.
Some insist on making a nest where you least want the birth to hap-
pen (like your new down comforter or in the linen closet or in a
dark corner of the basement). You can predict labor within about 12
hours and possibly catch a problem early on, by monitoring your
girl’s temperature twice a day from the sixtieth day on. If her tem-
perature drops from the normal range of 100° to 102.5°F to 98° to
99°F, get ready for kittens. If her
temperature is more than 1 degree
Purrfect Words
above normal, call your veterinar-
Queening is the term
used to refer to the ian. Elevated temperature can sig-
delivery of kittens. nal a problem with the pregnancy
or another impending medical
problem.
The first sign that your queen is in labor is usually restlessness
(hers—yours doesn’t count), a slight mucous discharge, and her
obsession with cleaning her genital area. The next stage begins with
straining. Your cat might go to the litter box and squat, and she
might or might not urinate. As the

labor progresses, you’ll be able to Hissss
see and feel the muscular abdomi- When your cat enters the
nal contractions as well as the second stage of labor
and begins to strain, re-move
dilation of the vaginal opening.
the litter box and replace it with
Contractions will become more a clean one lined with dispos-
frequent and stronger until a kitten able bedding.
emerges.
About 50 percent of kittens are delivered head first, and the rest
come out tail-end first. The latter is not usually a problem unless
the kitten is also upside down (with the kitten’s belly toward the
mother’s spine), which is a true breech delivery and potentially
dangerous.
A complete discussion of the ins and outs of feline birthing
requires a book in itself, so if you’re expecting kittens, I’d recom-
mend you read a book or articles devoted to the subject, talk to
your vet ahead of time, and speak to an experienced breeder or
two. Chances are you’ll get lots of opinions on nearly every aspect
of the process, and you’ll have to decide some things for yourself.
But you’ll be much more at ease and able to help your cat bring her
kittens into the world safe and sound if you know what to expect.
Not every labor goes according to plan, so be sure your vet
knows you’re expecting kittens and you have information on the
closest emergency vet just in case. Get your cat to a veterinarian
immediately if …
˙ No kitten is born within 24 hours of labor starting.
˙ No kitten is born after 1 hour of active straining.
˙ Contractions become weak or infrequent after labor has begun.
˙ Your queen is crying.
˙ You see bleeding or excessive or abnormal discharge from the
vulva.
Take your cat to the vet within 24 hours if your queen hasn’t
expelled an afterbirth for each and every kitten or she develops a
hot, red, swollen, or obviously tender breast.
Weigh each kitten at birth and every day for the first 2 weeks,
and record the weights. (To distinguish among look-alikes, you can
“label” each kitten under an armpit with a permanent marker and
record carefully who’s who.) Use a scale that measures in grams—
parts of ounces are not precise enough for the first 2 weeks. A nor-
mal, healthy kitten weighs 90 to 110 grams (about 3 to 4 ounces) at
birth, and although he might lose a few grams in the first 24 hours,
after that he should gain 6 to 10 grams (about a quarter to a third of
an ounce) a day, doubling his weight in the first 2 weeks. Failure to
gain weight can indicate a serious problem.
Kitten Development
A newborn kitten is completely helpless. His eyes and ears are sealed
shut, his claws extend from the sheaths, and he can’t yet walk. He
can’t urinate or defecate without stimulation, which his mother nor-
mally provides. His body can’t yet regulate its own temperature, so
the nursery should be kept at 75° to 80°F for the first week, then
slowly lowered to about 70°F. The baby kitten’s sense of smell works
just fine, though, and he can wriggle and crawl to mama every few
hours and suckle like mad to fill his tummy. His job at this time is to
eat, sleep, grow, and develop. He will jerk and twitch in “activated
sleep” to help develop his muscles and nervous system.
Between a week and 10 days of age, he’ll be crawling well, and
his eyes will open. He can’t focus very well, but it’s a start. All kit-
tens have dark blue eyes, which gradually assume the color they’ll be
for the rest of his life. The first tiny, sharp teeth emerge, and by 16
days he walks pretty well, although not with the feline grace he’ll
develop later. He begins to explore his surroundings—his mother
will have a job keeping him and his siblings out of trouble (think
2-year-old human!). By 3 weeks, he can walk and can begin to learn
to use a scratching post. His ears opened at 2 weeks, and he hears

well by 4 weeks.
The next 2 to 3 weeks are a time to grow and learn. By 4 weeks,
the kittens begin to play with each other, and by 5 weeks they stalk
and pounce on one another. They also begin to groom themselves
and their siblings at about 5 weeks, and they become interested in
their mother’s food—not a moment too soon for most mother cats,
who get tired of all those mouths full of little daggers pulling at
their nipples! Weaning is a natural process that occurs as the kittens
begin to eat food and Mom begins to discourage them from nursing.
This process teaches the kitten not only to eat “grown-up” food but
also to tolerate frustration as he learns he can’t have everything he
wants. This is also the age when kittens learn good litter box habits
as they imitate Mom. (Photo by David Philips)
Kittens form lifelong opinions of the

world and will be better adjusted if
they are carefully socialized before
they’re 4 months old.
Cat Nip
It’s hard to tell male and female kittens apart before 7 or 8
weeks of age. A female kitten has a vertical slit—the vulva—
just below the anus. With a little imagination, you can see that
the vulva and anus form a small letter “i.” A male kitten’s scrotum,
containing his testicles, is below his anus. His penis is normally
not visible because it’s contained in a rounded prepuce which is
visible below the scrotum. Males and females both have nipples.
Kittens grow quickly for the first 4 to 6 months, and at 4

months they usually weigh about half of what they’ll weigh as adults.
From 6 months to a year or so, they grow more slowly.
Critical socialization occurs between 2 and 14 weeks of age. As
we saw in Chapter 6, kittens do best if they can remain with their
mother and siblings for 10 and 16 weeks, depending on the breed
and individual kittens. During this time, kittens should experience
all sorts of things—vacuum cleaners, dishes being dropped, different
kinds of people and animals (safety first, of course), car rides, televi-
sion and radio sounds, noisy children, trucks going by—all the sights
and sounds of normal, everyday life. Each kitten should also be han-
dled for at least half an hour a day, especially between the second
and seventh weeks. Play with each kitten, talk to her, and start
teaching her to accept being held, petted, and groomed. The more
good things the kitten experiences at this age, the happier and better
adjusted she’ll be as an adult. It’s especially important for the kitten
to be around other cats—her mother and siblings at least—between
9 and 14 weeks. If not, she may never really understand feline social
behavior and communication.
At about 6 months of age, your kitten will lose his deciduous
(baby) teeth and his permanent (adult) teeth will come in. During
this time, you might detect some mouth odor (from the bleeding
that occurs as the permanent teeth erupt and baby teeth come out),
and you might notice some redness and swelling of his gums. This is
normal. Do keep an eye on his teething progress, though.
Occasionally a baby tooth doesn’t come out as willingly as it should,

and your vet will need to remove it.
Cat Nip
Vaccinations, beginning at about 7 weeks, are critical to pro-
tect your kittens’ health, particularly once the protection from
the mother’s colostrum wears off (see Chapter 11). This is
another area of cat care that inspires many opinions, so talk to
your vet, read on the subject, speak to other cat breeders, and
then decide what will work best for you and your kittens. What-
ever you decide, the important thing is to keep your kittens safe
from infectious disease. There’s nothing sadder than watching
once-healthy kittens sicken and die.
Kittens are very playful—and can be downright pesky, too!
Placing Kittens and Cats

Last but certainly not least of the duties of the breeder or foster
parents of kittens is the need to find them good, responsible homes.
Review Chapter 3 to refresh your memory about what responsible
kitten placers want to know. Ask questions of each prospective

adopter, and ask for and check references, ideally including a veteri-
narian. Ask about prior pet ownership, what happened to the pets,
how much attention the kitten will get and from whom. Be sure
everyone in the household wants a cat, and find out how your kitten
will be cared for—getting veterinary care, altering, living indoors or
roaming free, and so on.
Don’t give a kitten away free unless you personally know the
adopter well enough to have complete confidence in the kitten’s
well-being. Free kittens often aren’t well cared for and, worse, are
sometimes used for unspeakable purposes. If you aren’t comfortable
“selling” a nonpurebred kitten, ask for a deposit of a reasonable
amount to be refunded on proof of altering, a prepaid alter desig-
nated for this kitten only at a local vet, or a check handed to you but
payable to your local shelter or a feline rescue program.
Don’t be shy asking for any of this. There’s nothing wrong with
doing everything possible to be sure the kitten you’ve raised lives a
healthy, happy life.
Try not to let a person take a kitten home the same day she
meets him. It’s better for everyone to sleep on the decision. You
will have time to check the potential new owner’s references, and
the adopter can kitten-proof her home and stock up on new kitty
supplies. Be sure to tell her she needs this book, too!

˙ Breeding cats involves a lot more than playing with sweet little
kittens.
˙ Sexually unaltered cats can be difficult companions.
˙ Planning ahead is essential for delivering and raising healthy
kittens.
˙ A breeder is responsible for socializing kittens and placing
them in good homes.
Chapter
18
Cats Grow Old, Too
In This Chapter
˙ Understanding your aging feline
˙ Monitoring physical changes
˙ Managing age-related behavioral problems
˙ Keeping your senior cat comfortable and happy
As much as you hate to see it happen, all too soon your cat will
become a senior citizen. Although you can’t stop the passage of
time, you can take a variety of steps to help your cat remain healthy
and active as long as possible.
Physical Changes in Your Aging Cat

As your cat ages, you can expect a number of behavioral and physi-
cal changes to occur. Some are normal and inevitable, but some
signal serious disease. If you’re not sure talk to your vet. Early diag-
nosis and treatment might control problems while they’re small and
prolong your cat’s quality of life.
Let’s look at some of the common changes that occur in aging

cats, and then see what we can do to keep our geriatric kitties
healthy and happy.
Gastrointestinal Changes
Cats tend to lose the ability to digest and absorb fat as they grow
old. Although obesity does occur in middle-aged cats, feline seniors
more often lose weight and take on a distinctively “boney old cat”
feel. Changes in diet can help some older cats retain normal body
weight, though, so speak to your vet if your cat is losing weight.
Some older cats also do better with several small meals per day
instead of one or two bigger ones.
Constipation is a problem for many aging cats and can be
related to a number of causes. For one thing, food tends to move
more slowly through the older cat’s
digestive system, which, in turn,
Cat Nip
slows elimination. Arthritis or
Senior cats sometimes
fail to drink enough anal-gland problems can cause pain
water, leading to dehydration during defecation, so your cat
and constipation. Be sure your might avoid eliminating for as long
cat has constant easy access to as possible. Constipation can signal
clean drinking water.
serious disease, so if your cat isn’t
eliminating properly for more than
a day or so, see your vet.
Changes in Skin, Coat, and Claws

Like their human counterparts, many cats show their advancing age
in their hair. Some “go gray” (or white), especially on their faces.
Some experience thinning of the hair and changes in fur texture as
well, although these changes can also indicate nutritional deficien-
cies or health problems. If your cat’s coat changes suddenly or sig-
nificantly, she should see her vet to rule out disease. If the problem
Chapter 18: Cats Grow Old, Too 245
is nutritional, a change in diet might help (see “Gastrointestinal

Changes” as well as Chapter 8). Your older cat’s coat might also ben-
efit from more frequent grooming (see “Regular Grooming for the
Senior Feline”).
Age also brings changes in the skin, making it thinner, dryer, and
less elastic and, therefore, more prone to injury and infection and
slower to heal. Again, good nutrition will help, and regular brushing
will help stimulate the oil glands and distribute natural oils that
lubricate the skin and coat.
Your cat’s claws may also become dryer and more brittle with
age, and your older cat might be less inclined to use his scratching
post to maintain his manicures. Frequent nail trimming will keep his
claws healthy and will alert you quickly to injuries to his claws or
paws. Good nutrition will help maintain nail health, too.
Arthritis and Muscular Problems

As he ages, your cat might get stiff and sore and become reluctant
to move around. Some cats, especially those who have suffered joint
injuries when younger, develop
arthritis, which scan be mild or
debilitating. If your cat seems to Hissss
Never give your cat any
avoid jumping or climbing where
medication unless you are
he used to or if he seems to move specifically instructed to do so
stiffly, talk to your vet. Nutritional by a veterinarian. Some medica-
supplements help in some cases, tions are lethal for cats even in
and if his symptoms are severe, small doses (see Chapter 13).
your vet might prescribe anti-
inflammatory or pain medications.
Senior cats also tend to lose muscle mass and tone, making
movement more difficult and leading to even more muscle loss.
Lack of exercise has additional harmful effects on your older cat’s
heart, digestive system, and emotional health as well, and lack of

muscle support will exacerbate the effects of arthritis.
Exercise is important throughout your cat’s life, and moderate
exercise remains important into advanced old age. You can encour-
age your senior feline to move around in a number of ways. Make
life easier for him by placing ramps where he used to leap (for
instance, onto a bed or favorite chair or perch). Appeal to his feline
curiosity with empty paper bags or cardboard boxes he can explore
or crumpled papers or toys he can chase and bat around. Gentle
games will help him stay in shape and alert and also reinforce the
bond between the two of you.
(Photo by Brad Ralph)
You might find that your older cat

spends even more time sleeping than
when she was younger.
If your cat is unable to exercise regularly, you might be able to

make her more comfortable by gently flexing and massaging her
joints and muscles every day. Massage stimulates circulation, helping
joints and muscles remain flexible, and many aging cats enjoy the
stimulation and contact. If she’s too sore, she’ll tell you. If that’s the
case, just pet her gently and talk to her. Love is good medicine, too.
Heart, Lung, Kidney, Liver, and Glandular Changes

Many changes occur to your cat’s internal organs as he grows older.
Good nutrition (see Chapter 8) and proper dental care (see Chap-
ter 7) can help maintain good health into advanced old age, but
some changes are inevitable.
The aging heart loses muscle tone and can’t pump blood as
efficiently as a young heart. Cardiomyopathy, a disease of the heart
muscle, is not uncommon in older cats. Your vet might diagnose
heart problems with the help of radiographs (x-rays), or he might
recommend an electrocardiogram (EKG) or echocardiogram for
more precise diagnosis. Medication can often control symptoms of
feline heart disease, depending on the type of disease, its severity,
and your cat’s general health.
Your cat’s lungs become less elastic with age, reducing their
ability to oxygenate blood, which reduces your cat’s stamina. Older
cats are prone to respiratory problems, so your vet might suggest
changes to your kitty’s vaccinations. If your cat has asthma, her
symptoms might become worse.
Your cat’s risk of kidney disease also increases with age. Part of
the increased risk results from natural changes in the kidney itself,
but various health problems can also contribute to kidney disease. As
we saw in Chapter 7, gum disease can result in transmission of bac-
teria to other organs, especially the kidney and heart. If the heart
isn’t working properly, blood flow to the kidneys may be reduced,
contributing to kidney dysfunction.
Observable signs of kidney disease (usually increased drinking
and urination) don’t become apparent until more than half of
normal kidney function is lost, so screening for kidney function

through blood chemistry tests or urinalysis is a good idea as part
of your older cat’s regular examinations. Screening is also recom-
mended before any procedure requiring anesthesia. Kidney disease
is serious, but special diets and medications can often control it.
Your cat’s liver, which produces various proteins and enzymes
and removes toxins from the blood, also becomes less efficient with
age. Liver disease isn’t always easy to diagnose, though. A perfectly
healthy animal sometimes shows high levels of liver enzymes, while
one with liver disease might have normal levels of liver enzymes in
the blood. Still, screening is recommended periodically and before
anesthesia, as an animal with reduced liver function requires lower
doses of anesthesia and some medications.
Glandular changes and the resulting hormone-related diseases
are also common in older cats as the levels of some hormones rise
and others fall. Hyperthyroidism and diabetes mellitus (see Chap-
ter 12) are not uncommon in feline seniors. Routine blood tests can
catch these and other diseases early, making control through drugs,
diet, and other methods more effective.
Female cats who are spayed after coming in heat or having
kittens—or not at all—might develop hormone-related mammary
gland tumors. Although some tumors are fibrous rather than can-
cerous, about 85 percent of feline mammary tumors are malignant.
A careful examination of the older female cat’s mammary glands
should be part of her regular check-up.
Hearing Loss
Hearing loss is not unusual in older cats, but it can go unnoticed for
a long time, especially in a multi-pet home where the hard-of-hear-
ing cat may rely on visual clues from other pets and continue to
respond to activity as you expect him to. Our cat Mary was stone
deaf, and we didn’t realize it. I made the discovery when she didn’t
react at all when I talked to her back and no one else was around
to cue her. If your cat’s first reaction to seeing you looks like
aggression—a startled cat reacts with a swat or bite, for example—
a visit to the vet to check his hearing might be in order.
Hearing loss due to aging is usually permanent. A few changes
in your behavior, though, can keep your cat’s interaction with you
positive. Even if your cat is completely deaf, he might be able to
sense vibrations, especially on the floor or a piece of furniture where
he’s lounging. Clap your hands, stomp on the floor, or pat the end
of the couch to give him a heads-up. If he can still see, visual signals
are also effective (if he’s not sound asleep). Move into his field of
vision at a distance before you approach him, or flash a light on and
off to get his attention.
Eye and Vision Changes

Your cat might also lose some or all of her vision as she grows older.
Common signs of vision loss include bumping into things or lack
of interest in moving objects. Cloudiness of the older cat’s eye,
known as nuclear sclerosis, is normal and usually doesn’t affect vision,
but cats might also develop cataracts, glaucoma, or other eye dis-
eases. Gradual changes are fairly normal, but if you notice a sudden
change in the appearance of your cat’s eyes or in her apparent ability
to see, contact your vet. The eye is the window not only to the soul
but often to general health as well.
Behavioral Changes in Your Aging Cat

Elderly cats often undergo changes in personality and behavior.
Some changes are minor or even perceived as improvements by a
cat’s people—Felix no longer climbs the curtains! But other changes
can be problematic and worrisome. Health problems and physical
changes (see “Physical Changes in Your Aging Cat”) often cause or
contribute to changes in personality, behavior, and sleep patterns. In
addition, many cats (like many people) become less able to handle
stress as they grow older. Events your cat took in stride when he was
younger might become catalysts for inappropriate elimination, ag-
gression, phobias, and other behaviors you don’t want.
Cat Nip
If your aging cat no longer seems to handle stress well, bring-
ing home a new pet, especially a playful kitten, might not be
a great idea. The best time to welcome a new pet is while the
older one still moves around easily, sees and hears reasonably
well, and retains an interest in his housemates.
Fortunately, behavior modification techniques and veterinary

intervention (see Chapters 10 and 12) can manage many age-related
behavioral changes. If your old cat just doesn’t seem to be herself,
talk to your vet about diagnosis and treatment options.
Aggression
We’ve probably all known some “crotchety” older people. Cats can
become crabby as they age, too, sometimes behaving aggressively
toward people and other pets they have lived with peaceably for
years. Aggressive behavior is at best no fun to live with, and it’s dan-
gerous. Besides, a cat who changes in this way is not a happy feline.
Aggressive behavior in older cats is often a response to pain
or fear. Pain might be the chronic aches of arthritis or long-term
illness or the sudden pain of acute injury or disease. Fear can arise
when the cat is in pain or when she can no longer see or hear well.
Various organ diseases can also cause chemical imbalances that lead
to behavioral changes, including aggression.
If your cat becomes aggressive, schedule a thorough physical
exam to determine whether there’s a medical reason for the change.
If the behavior seems to be the result of a medical problem, talk to
your vet about treatment options. If no obvious cause can be found

for the behavior, ask your vet to refer you to a qualified animal
behaviorist who can work out an appropriate treatment program.
Medical (drug) treatment, other approaches (see Chapter 10), or a
combination of treatments can often control aggression.

Some older cats do well with kittens, while others would prefer to be left in
peace.
Loss of House Training

The most common behavioral problem reported in feline senior
citizens is inappropriate elimination—pottying outside the litter box
and sometimes scent marking (spraying). Such behavior might be
due to a medical problem. Stress can also lead to inappropriate elim-
ination in cats of all ages, especially older cats (review the sugges-
tions for dealing with poor potty habits in Chapter 10).
With older cats in particular, you might need to clean the litter
box more frequently as changes in your cat’s digestive and urinary
systems cause him to use the facilities more often. If your old kitty is
arthritic, he might experience pain

MeowWOW getting to and in and out of the
A number of medical litter box. Sometimes a simple
conditions can cause change—say, a more accessible
older cats to lose their previ- location or a new box with lower
ously fastidious litter box habits,
including feline lower urinary
sides—makes all the difference.
tract disease (FLUTD), kidney Going up and down stairs can be
or liver disease, colitis, inflam- painful for old joints, so adding
matory bowel disease, anal a box or two in different parts
sac disease, diabetes mellitus, of the house, especially if your
hyperthyroidism, arthritis, or
vision problems. house has multiple levels, might
be helpful.
Routine Health Care for Your Older Cat

Good regular care and quick recognition of signs of trouble go a
long way toward keeping an aging cat healthy for many years to
come.
Groom or handle your cat every day if possible—use all your
senses to check her condition, and report any lumps, sores, hair loss,
abdominal changes, strange odors, or other changes to your veteri-
narian. Check her mouth regularly, and provide dental care (see
Chapter 7).
Keep a watchful eye on your cat’s behavior. Are there changes in
his interaction with people, his sleep patterns, or his reactions to the
world around him? Does he have trouble climbing or jumping onto
things? Does he limp? Does he cough, sneeze, or pant excessively?
Change is normal, but sudden or extreme changes might indicate
medical problems. Notice changes
MeowWOW in eating and drinking habits,
Exercise is good for which can also signal health prob-
your older cat’s body lems. Watch also for changes in
and his mind. Encourage him to elimination habits and in her urine
remain as active as possible.
and feces.
Weigh your aging cat every month or two and keep track of
any loss or gain. Some weight loss is typical in older cats, but a sud-
den loss or gain can indicate a health problem. Report any of these
changes to your veterinarian as soon as possible.
Cat Nip
You can help your veterinarian make a diagnosis by carefully
observing and recording changes in your cat’s body or behav-
ior. Keep track of when her behavior changed or a symptom
first showed up, whether it’s present all the time or only some-
times, how often it occurs and how long it lasts if it’s not con-
stant, and what was going on at the time of the change. Keep
track, too, of anything new or different in your cat’s environment.
Regular veterinary examinations and preventive care are impor-

tant throughout your cat’s life (see Chapter 11), but in old age they
become critical. As he ages, your cat’s immune system stops working
as well as it did when he was younger, so his vaccinations should
be kept up to date. Good geriatric care can add healthy years to his
life. Many veterinarians offer preventive care programs designed
especially for older animals. Such programs usually include regular
general examinations combined with various additional diagnostic
tests that are appropriate for the individual cat, potentially including
urinalysis, blood count (CBC), blood chemistry panel, testing for
FIV and FeLV, electrocardiogram
(EKG), thyroid testing, radi-
ographs (x-rays), blood pressure Hissss
monitoring, and pre-anesthetic Older cats are often more
screening if anesthesia is needed. sensitive to changes in
diet than they were when they
Veterinary medicine, like its were younger. If you need to
human counterpart, has come a change your senior feline’s
long way in the past decade. Many food, do so gradually over the
course of a week or two, slowly
of the newer procedures take less increasing the proportion of
time, are less invasive, or require new food and decreasing the
local rather than the more risky old.
general anesthesia, making them
better choices for older cats whose health problems increase the
risks of traditional procedures. Among these newer procedures are
ultrasound, laser surgery, electro surgery, and endoscopy. Holistic
and alternative approaches have also gained popularity and seem to
be successful for some cats (see the appendix.)
Pain control for animals has also come a long way in the past
20 years. Post-surgical and chronic pain used to be treated conserva-
tively or even totally ignored, but it is now generally acknowledged
that although cats tend not to tell us when they hurt, they do still
hurt! Unfortunately, cats are not good candidates for many pain
relievers, but new medications that can be used safely to alleviate
pain, particularly in elderly cats, are now available.
Regular Grooming for the Senior Feline

Grooming is important throughout your cat’s life (see Chapter 7).
Your grooming efforts on her behalf become even more important,
though, as she ages. She might not be able to groom herself as easily
as she once did—old joints might ache and be less flexible, and she
just might not have the energy.
Careful brushing at least once a week will not only keep your cat
looking and feeling better but will also alert you early to any lumps
and bumps, sores, bare spots, or other oddities on or under his skin.
It will also give you a chance to check him carefully for fleas, ticks,
or other unwanted external passengers, which—like other health
problems—can cause more complications now than when he was
younger. He might not be using his scratching paraphernalia as
much as he used to, so be sure to clip his claws regularly. Keep in
mind that old skin is fragile, and be careful not to scratch him with
the comb or brush or pull too hard.
Dental care is especially important for the older cat. Bacteria
can enter the blood stream through unhealthy gums and damage
internal organs, particularly the heart and kidneys. Daily brushing is
recommended, but even two or three times a week is better than not
at all. Brushing will not only keep teeth and gums healthier but will
also make you aware of foul breath, loose or missing teeth, sores, or
other oral problems.
Creature Comforts for the Older Cat

Ever been around an elderly person who wears sweaters when
everyone else is close to heat prostration? The aging process reduces
the body’s ability to regulate its own temperature, in cats as well as
people. As a result, your cat might seek warmer spots in the house—
our Mary co-opted the heating pad we purchased for newborn pup-
pies for her own use in old age. Pet supply stores carry a variety of
heating devices designed for pets (see the appendix). If you provide
a supplemental heat source, be sure to choose one that’s safe for use
with pets and pet bedding. Be sure, too, that your old kitty has a
soft, comfy bed to cushion her old bones. Special orthopedic pet
beds are available, but many cats prefer a cozy corner of the couch.
(Photo by Phillip Clay Wilkerson)
The most important thing you can do for your aging cat is to continue to love
and cherish him.
As your cat ages, stress might bother him more than before,
especially if he’s ill, arthritic, or losing his vision or hearing. Even
things he used to enjoy might bother him. You can’t eliminate stress,
but you can minimize it and help him cope by providing a quiet
place where he can get away from whatever bothers him. Don’t let
people or other pets disturb him when he wants to be alone.
If your cat is used to going outdoors, you might not want to
keep her in all the time, but consider limiting her outdoor time,
especially when it’s very hot or cold or at night. As we’ve seen, she
can’t regulate her body temperature as well as a younger cat, and
changes in temperature can be hard on her heart and lungs. As she
loses her hearing and vision and her body and mind don’t work as
quickly, she becomes much more vulnerable to attacks by other
animals or to accidental injuries. Older cats sometimes become dis-
oriented, too, and get lost. All in all, she’s better off indoors or
supervised when out.
The most important thing you can do for your cat all his life—
especially in his final years—is to love him, respect him, and take
good care of him. You’ll both reap the rewards.

˙ Old age brings many changes to your cat.
˙ Good geriatric veterinary care can extend your cat’s life and
prevent health-related problems.
˙ Veterinary care and good husbandry can manage most com-
mon behavioral changes in older cats.
˙ Providing a comfortable, low-stress environment will make
your cat’s latter years better for both of you.
Chapter
19
Saying Farewell
In This Chapter
˙ Facing the end of your cat’s life
˙ Making the decision to euthanize
˙ Dealing with your loss
˙ Moving on to the future
Compared to a normal human life span, cats simply don’t live very
long. However, if we recognize that aging and death are not events
to be feared, but rather normal steps in the great circle of life that
contains us all, then the brief time we have with our cats becomes
more precious, and its end more acceptable.
Although it isn’t easy to confront mortality—our own or
our pets’—doing so is a bit easier when we are prepared for the
inevitable. In this chapter, I will try to help you plan ahead, and
come to terms with your cat’s aging process.
Quality of Life Over Length

One of the most difficult events we can experience is the end of a
beloved companion’s life. Sadly, it’s a price we pay for the pleasure
of living with and loving cats and other animals.
Many cats live well into their teens with few health problems,
but aging cats can experience problems and illnesses as a result of
growing old (see Chapter 18). Some of these problems are minor
and affect the cat’s quality of life very little. Others are devastating,
forcing us to make difficult and painful decisions.
Sometimes we have to make heart-wrenching choices for a
younger cat, too. Disease or injury can replace joy and comfort
with despair and pain at any age. Sometimes the kindest thing we
can do is let go.
MeowWOW
Euthanasia offers a gentle passage and freedom from pain
and is a final gift we can give our cats. During the writing of
this book, our elderly cat Mary, who I mentioned in Chapter
1, lost all interest in food, water, and life itself. At the end of her
days, my husband and I chose to let her go with dignity and
love. It’s never easy, but euthanasia can be a blessing.
Your cat’s overall quality of life should be the most significant

factor in the difficult process of deciding to euthanize. Does he seem
to be in pain or depressed much of the time? Has he lost interest
in simple feline pleasures like eating or cuddling? Has he stopped
responding to you or become withdrawn and disinterested? If your
cat has more bad days than good ones, it might be time to discuss
euthanasia with your veterinarian. It’s not an easy decision to make,
but euthanasia is a far better alternative than letting your cat suffer
with no hope of relief.
Chapter 19: Saying Farewell 259
Decisions You Need to Make

Your decision to euthanize your cat might be influenced by a num-
ber of factors, which you will need to consider in order to make the
right choice for your cat, yourself, and your family.
Your cat’s health is the most important factor. Barring the pres-
ence of severe, acute pain, you’ll have some time to decide. Discuss
your cat’s condition, treatment options, and chance for recovery
with your veterinarian.
Realistically, cost might be a factor. Medical treatment can be
extremely expensive, for cats as well as for people, and most of us
have financial limits. Don’t feel guilty or embarrassed if you simply
cannot afford the recommended treatment.
Long-term care for a chronically ill animal can also be emotion-
ally taxing for you and other family members, including other pets.
If your cat becomes incontinent or needs frequent treatments or
medications, care can become a physical challenge for the caretaker,
too.
Be honest with yourself and your vet if you feel unable to man-
age the financial, physical, and emotional costs of long-term care for
your cat. Knowing your limits doesn’t make you a bad person and
doesn’t mean you’ve let your cat down. What would be right for
someone else might not be for you and your cat.
If your cat is terminally ill but you’re not ready to let go, you
might be interested to know that some veterinary hospitals and
organizations offer home hospice
care designed to keep terminally
Cat Nip
ill pets comfortable at home until
The American Associ-
family members come to terms ation of Human-Animal
with their impending loss. If hos- Bond Veterinarians offers infor-
pice care is an option you’d like to mation on home hospice care
explore, ask your vet or closest vet- for terminally ill animals on its
website at www.aahabv.org/
erinary school about options in
Hospice.htm.
your area.
(Photo by Dan Brandenburg)

Ceremonies and grave markers help many people manage the grief that
comes with losing a pet.
If you decide that euthanization is the right choice, you and your
family should talk about where and when the procedure will take
place. Some vets will come to your home, especially if you’re a long-
time client and the cat is very ill. If you plan to go to the veterinar-
ian’s office, try to arrange a time when the clinic is less busy and
when you don’t have to hurry back to work or other obligations.
This is an emotional experience. You’ll need time to grieve your loss
and perhaps reflect on the time you had with your feline friend.
Decide ahead of time who will be present. Most family members
will want to say good-bye, and each may have different needs. Be
sure everyone has a chance, before and after euthanasia has been
performed, to make his or her farewells. Talking about it in advance
will make it easier for everyone when the time comes.
Knowing what to expect will also ease the process. Many people
are afraid that euthanization will be frightening or painful for their
cat. Over the years, I’ve said farewell to quite a few cats and dogs,
and I can tell you that every one of them went gently and quietly
and with the dignity and security of having people who loved them
there even at the end.
Purrfect Words
Just this side of Heaven is a place called Rainbow Bridge.
When an animal dies that has been especially close to some-
one here, that pet goes to Rainbow Bridge. There are mead-
ows and hills for all of our special friends so they can run and
play together. There is plenty of food and water and sunshine,
and our friends are warm and comfortable. All the animals who
had been ill and old are restored to health and vigor; those who
were hurt or maimed are made whole and strong again, just as
we remember them in our dreams of days and times gone by.
The animals are happy and content, except for one small thing:
they miss someone very special to them who had to be left
behind.
They all run and play together, but the day comes when one
suddenly stops and looks into the distance. The bright eyes are
intent; the eager body quivers. Suddenly he begins to break
away from the group, flying over the green grass, his legs carry-
ing him faster and faster. You have been spotted, and when you
and your special friend finally meet, you cling together in joyous
reunion, never to be parted again. The happy kisses rain upon
your face; your hands again caress the beloved head, and you
look once more into the trusting eyes of your pet, so long gone
from your life but never absent from your heart.
Then you cross Rainbow Bridge together.
—Anonymous
The process is fast and virtually painless. Usually a concentrated

solution of pentobarbital is injected directly into a vein, causing the
heart to stop in a matter of seconds. Certain physiological reactions
sometimes occur after the heart stops. Be sure you and anyone else
who is present understand that the animal doesn’t feel any pain. He’s
already gone. One such post-mortem reaction is movement, caused
by contraction or relaxation of muscles. This relaxation may cause
the animal to pass urine and feces, and sometimes air escapes the
lungs. Knowing what to expect will help you decide who should be
present and make it easier for everyone to be prepared.
Some people simply cannot face
MeowWOW being there, but if you can, your cat
Creating a scrapbook
will probably be more at ease if you
or photo album, fram- hold him and stroke him while the
ing a favorite photo, creating a injection is given. You’ll probably
memorial web page, or keep- get lots of advice, but in the end
ing a bit of hair, a collar, or a you have to decide what’s best for
name tag as a memento helps
many people deal with the loss you and your cat. If you can’t face
of a beloved cat. being present, that’s okay. You’re
not abandoning your kitty; you’re
placing him in gentle hands that
will guide him on his way.
Young children should probably not witness the euthanization
process, but you do need to prepare them for the loss of their pet.
(See the appendix for resources for talking to children about death.)
Be sure each child has a chance to say farewell before and maybe
after your cat is gone.
If you or members of your family feel a need for time alone with
your cat afterward, tell your vet. Many people want time alone with
their cat after the procedure to say a final farewell.
It’s a good idea to speak to your veterinarian in advance about
how you want the body handled. There are several options, depend-
ing on services offered where you live and your preferences. You
might want to have your cat cremated and the ashes returned to you
to keep, bury, or scatter in your cat’s favorite spot. Or you might
want to have your cat cremated with other pets, in which case the
ashes won’t be returned to you. Burial is also possible. If you want to
bury your pet at home, be sure it’s legal where you live. Many com-
munities have pet cemeteries. Whatever you decide, your veterinar-
ian can help you make the arrangements.
Dealing With Loss

Losing a beloved pet is very difficult. Be kind to yourself. Try to
plan for something to do for the rest of the day, and try to be with
someone who understands your grief. Don’t share your feelings with
people you don’t think will understand. The last thing you need is
for someone to say, “It was just a cat.” The cats who share our lives
are part of us. Don’t allow anyone to belittle your feelings.
Ceremonies often help us deal
with loss and provide a sense of Cat Nip
closure. If it’s allowed where you Losing a pet is one of
live, you might want to bury your the most stressful events
cat’s remains or perhaps his collar we can experience. Take time
and a favorite toy for a sense of to mourn, and take good care
of yourself and your family
closure. When we lost our beauti-
members, including other pets,
ful cat Leo, my husband and I during this important time.
buried him and planted cat mint
over the spot. I know people who
take comfort in assembling a photo album or scrapbook about their
cat. Pictures of him as a kitten, an adolescent, and an adult can
evoke happy memories that dull the sharp edges of grief. Many peo-
ple make a memorial donation to a local shelter. If your cat died of
an inherited or infectious disease, you might want to make a dona-
tion in his name to feline health research. You will know what feels
right to you.
Losing a pet is one of the saddest and most stressful events we
experience. Unfortunately, not everyone understands this. Don’t let
anyone embarrass you or demean your grief. To begin healing, you
and other members of your family might need to talk to someone
who understands. If you don’t know anyone you can confide in com-
fortably, consider calling a specialized pet loss grief counseling
service:
˙ California. 530-752-4200 or 1-800-565-1526. Staffed by
University of California—Davis veterinary students.
˙ Florida. 352-392-4700, then dial 1 and 4080. Staffed by

University of Florida veterinary students.
˙ Illinois. 630-603-3994. Leave a voicemail; calls will be
returned 7 P.M. to 9 P.M. (CT). Staffed by Chicago Veterinary
Medical Association veterinarians and staffs. 217-244-2273 or
1-877-384-CARE (1-877-394-2273). Leave a voicemail; calls
will be returned 7 P.M. to 9 P.M. (CT), Tuesdays, Thursdays,
and Sundays. Staffed by University of Illinois veterinary stu-
dents.
˙ Iowa. 1-888-ISU-PLSH (1-888-478-7574). Hosted by the
Iowa State University College of Veterinary Medicine.
˙ Maryland and Virginia. 540-231-8038. Staffed by Virginia-
Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine.
˙ Massachusetts. 508-839-7966. Staffed by Tufts University vet-
erinary students.
˙ Michigan. 517-432-2696. Staffed by Michigan State
University veterinary students.
˙ New York. 607-253-3932. Staffed by Cornell University
Veterinary Students.
˙ Ohio. 614-292-1823. Staffed by Ohio State University veteri-
nary students.
˙ Washington. 509-335-5704. Washington State University
College of Veterinary Medicine.
These organizations understand what you’re going through and

can offer helpful suggestions to help you through your grief.
(Photo by Diane Diederich)

Those we have loved are never really gone
from our hearts.
Moving On
It will be hard to imagine ever loving another cat as much as you
have loved the one you’ve lost. Because everyone grieves differently,
only you can decide when it’s time to move on.
When you’re ready, consider looking for a new kitty to love. You
can’t replace the old one, so don’t even try—you’ll be disappointed,
and you’ll rob both cats of their supremely feline individuality. If
you love a particular breed or hair or color, then by all means get
another cat with those traits. If looking at a face and coat and color
similar to those of your old friend will be difficult for you, then con-
sider a cat with a different look. Remember, your new cat can’t be
your old one, he can only be himself. If you try to make your new
cat fit the mold of your old one, you’ll miss the wonderful little
traits that will make your new cat special.

˙ As your cat ages, you might have to balance your wish to keep
him with you against the quality of his life.
˙ Euthanasia offers a gentle release from pain and discomfort.
˙ Allow all family members to say farewell and to grieve in their
own ways.
˙ If you have trouble adjusting to the loss of your cat, help is
available.
˙ Don’t be afraid to love another cat when the time is right.
Resources
Want to learn more about breeds? Adopting a cat or kitten?
Organizations to join? Finding other cat lovers? Books magazines
devoted to cats? You've come to the right place!
Further Reading
Magazines about cats are an excellent source of up-to-date information
about health-care options, new approaches to training, new products,
warnings about risky products, and other topics of interest to cat lovers.
Coverage of a subject in magazines is, of course, limited by space
restrictions, but books cover the world of cats in more detail. So curl
up with a good read and a cat on your lap, and learn more about your
feline friend.
Magazines
Most of the purebred cat registries have their own specialized publica-
tions. In addition, the following periodicals carry articles on a wide
range of topics that interest most cat lovers.
Fancy Publications, a division of BowTie Press, publishes several
cat magazines, including Cat Fancy and Cats Magazine (monthly) and
CATS USA and Kittens USA (both annuals), aimed primarily at pet
owners, although there is information about purebred cats and occa-
sionally about showing as well. For more information, visit www.
animalnetwork.com/animalnetwork/ or look for copies in bookstores,
pet supply stores, and other magazine outlets.
Here are some others you might enjoy:
Cat World International
PO Box 35635
Phoenix, AZ 85069-5635
602-995-1822
Bi-monthly, features articles on health, genetics, veterinary research,
and breeds, plus book reviews and a show calendar.
268 The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Getting and Owning a Cat
Cat World
Avalon Court
Star Road
Partridge Green
West Sussex, RH13 8RY
United Kingdom
01403 711511
This monthly magazine for cat lovers is available on some American
newsstands.
Cat Fanciers’ Almanac
1805 Atlantic Avenue
PO Box 1005
Manasquan, NJ 08736-1005
908-528-9797
www.cfainc.org/pubs/publications.html
The official magazine of the Cat Fancier’s Association (CFA).
TICA Trend
PO Box 2684
Harlingen, TX 78551
www.tica.org/TREND/trendMain.htm
The official magazine of The International Cat Association (TICA).
Chats Canada Cats
220 Advance Boulevard, Suite #101
Brampton, Ontario L6T 4J5
905-459-1481
The official magazine of the Canadian Cat Association (CCA).
Books
Eldredge, Debra, D.V.M. Pills for Pets: The A to Z Guide to Drugs and
Medications for Your Animal Companion. Sacramento: Citadel Press,
2003.
Kunkel, Paul. How to Toilet Train Your Cat: 21 Days to a Litter-Free
Home. New York: Workman Publishing, 1991.
Resources 269
Pryor, Karen. Don’t Shoot the Dog: The New Art of Teaching and Training,
Revised Edition. New York: Bantam Books, 1999.
This is a basic introduction to operant conditioning and clicker
training for any species.
———. Getting Started: Clicker Training for Cats (A Karen Pryor Clicker
Book). Interpet Publishing, 2002.
Shojai, Amy D. The First-Aid Companion for Dogs and Cats. Rodale
Books, 2001.
Tellington-Jones, Linda, and Sybil Taylor. Getting In TTouch with Your

Cat. Trafalger Square, 2003.
Cats Online and Off

The Internet has become a rich source of information and fellowship
for cat lovers. New websites, discussion lists, and other resources appear
every day, and old ones sometimes disappear or change. If you’re inter-
ested in learning more about a specific topic, try searching through a
major search engine (such as Google) using “cat” or “feline” in the
search parameters.
Not everything posted in cyberspace is accurate, of course, so
always check the credentials of the people and organizations posting
information. If your cat is ill or injured, don’t wait for an Internet
response—get your cat to a veterinarian.
Internet Discussion Lists and Related Websites

Many people become involved in online discussion groups for both the
information they provide and the contact with other cat lovers. Here
are a few suggested starting points:
www.fanciers.com/links.html#general
The Cat Fanciers Links page offers an extensive list of cat-oriented
links to get you started.
www.fanciers.com/cat-faqs/email-list.shtml
Offers extensive directories of e-mail lists.
groups.yahoo.com/search?query=cats
Find an extensive list of discussion groups by searching for “cats” at
www.yahoogroups.com.
www.holisticmed.com/www/veterinary.html
Veterinary Medicine Internet Resources list a variety of holistic and
alternative pet health care websites and discussion lists.
www.listservice.net/wellpet/
WELLPET, “a forum for natural pet care,” maintains a discussion list
and website.
VETMED is for discussions of veterinary related topics. Most sub-
scribers are not veterinarians, and discussions range from highly techni-
cal to nontechnical. To subscribe, send an e-mail to listserv@listserv.
iupui.edu with subject line “subscribe VETMED your-name.”
Feline Health and Safety Resources

The Winn Feline Foundation, Inc.
1805 Atlantic Avenue
PO Box 1005
732-528-9797
www.winnfelinehealth.org/
The Winn Feline Foundation is a nonprofit organization established by
the Cat Fancier’s Association, Inc., to support health-related studies
benefiting cats.
Cats Indoors! Campaign
American Bird Conservancy
1834 Jefferson Place, NW
Washington, DC 20036
202-452-1535
www.abcbirds.org/cats/
Resources 271
This informative site addresses the impact of cats on birds, including

documentation on cat predation, health hazards, and other dangers
associated with free-roaming cats, legislative solutions, and practical
advice on how to convert an outdoor cat into a contented indoor pet.
www.fema.gov/library/diztips.shtm and www.fema.gov/library/
petsf.shtm
Check out the Federal Emergency Management Administration
(FEMA) website for emergency and disaster information for pet
owners.
www.aspca.org/emergency
The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals
(ASPCA) website offers tips for emergency preparedness.
Cat Registries
www.fanciers.com
Cat Fanciers website is “an internet forum for the cat fancy.”
American Association of Cat Enthusiasts (AACE)
PO Box 213
Pine Brook, NJ 07058
973-335-6717
www.aaceinc.org
American Cat Fancier’s Association (ACFA)
PO Box 1949
Nixa, MO 65714-1949
417-725-1530
www.acfacat.com
Canadian Cat Association (CCA)
289 Rutherford Road, S, #18
Brampton, ON, L6W 3R9 Canada
905-459-1481
www.cca-afc.com
Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA)

PO Box 1005
732-528-9797
www.cfainc.org
Cat Fanciers’ Federation (CFF)
PO Box 661
Gratis, OH 45330
937-787-9009
www.cffinc.org
The International Cat Association (TICA)
PO Box 2684
Harlingen, TX 78551
956-428-8046
www.tica.org
The Traditional Cat Association, Inc. (TCA)
PO Box 178
Heisson, WA 98622-0178
www.traditionalcats.com
Additional Sources on Training and Competition

www.catagility.com
International Cat Agility Tournaments (ICAT) offers information on
training cats for agility and competition.
groups.yahoo.com/group/Cat-Clicker
CatClickers is a discussion list for people interested in using clicker
training (operant conditioning) to train their cats.
www.wagntrain.com/OC/
Stacy Braslau-Schneck maintains an excellent site on learning and train-
ing principles.
www.karenpryor.com
Karen Pryor’s site on clicker training and operant conditioning provides
a wealth of information.
Index
A B
abscessed teeth, bad breath cause, 89 B.A.R.F. (Biologically Appropriate
acarids, 145 Raw Food) diets, 101
acids, 177 bacterias, upper respiratory disease,
activity levels, food amount 157
determination, 103 bad breath, causes, 89
acute diarrhea, 162 baking soda, 89
adoption, 31-37 baths, grooming coat, 84-87
adult cats, 18-19, 28-30 behaviors
ages, bringing kitten home, 55-56 aging cats, 249-252
aggression, 138, 250-251 catnip, 66-67
agility, cat shows, 225-226 climbing, 67-68
aging cats, 249-265 prevention, 120-132
airline transportation, 205-207 purring, 65
alkali, 177 sleeping, 65-66
allergens, 21 training, 108-115
allergies, 21, 158-159 benching fees, cat shows, 221
altered cats, 148-149 Billinghurst, Dr. Ian, B.A.R.F.
American Association of Feline (Biologically Appropriate Raw
Practitioners (AAFP), vaccinations, Food) diets, 101
139 Biologically Appropriate Raw Food
American Bird Conservancy (ABC), (B.A.R.F.) diets, 101
72 births
American Veterinary Identification labor, 236-238
Devices (AVID), 78 queen risks, 232-233
anal glands, 160 bites
anesthesia allergies, 159 first-aid, 175
animal assisted activities (AAA), 197 training, 129-131
animal assisted therapy (AAT), 197 blisters, tongue, 138
anxieties, separation, 122-124 boarding kennels, 209-211
appetites, loss of, 138 bones
arthritis, aging cats, 245-247 fracture first-aid, 180
arthropods, ticks, 142-143 perforated intestine, 102
automobiles, safe travel, 204-205 bowls, 48
AVID (American Veterinary breath, causes of bad breath, 89
Identification Devices), 78 breed true, 14
breeding, 229-232 Centers for Disease Control and

birthing risks, 232-233 Prevention (CDC), rabies, 140
delivery, 234-238 ceremonies, mourning aging cat
home placement, 241-242 death, 263
inheritance, 233-234 CFA (Cat Fanciers’ Association), 219
kitten development, 238-241 championship, cat show category,
breeds 216
registration papers, 15-16 check-ups, health, 48-49
selecting cats, 14 cheeks, whiskers, 59
standard, 216 chemical poisons, 177
bromethalin, 177 cheyletiella mange, 144
brushing children, cats, 6-7
grooming coat, 83-84 Chlamydia psittaci, 140, 157
teeth, 89-90 chlorinated hydrocarbons, 177
chronic diarrhea, 162
C claws
aging cats, 244-245
grooming, 92-94
Calicivirus, 139
scratching training, 115-116
cancers, 141, 164
trimming, 52
carbamates, 177
clay-based litters, 112
cardiomyopathy, aging cats, 247
clicker training, 109
caretakers, 209-212
climbing, 67-68
carpal vibrissae, 58
clowders, 128
carriers, 46
clumping litters, 113
emergency evacuations, 171
coats
international travel, 207-208
aging cats, 244-245
public transportation, 205-207
grooming, 82-87
safe traveling, 204-205
collars, 47
cars, safe travel, 204-205
colostrum, 141
Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA), 219
combing, grooming coat, 83-84
cat-sitters, 211-212
comforts, aging cats, 255-256
categories, cat shows, 216
commands, training, 194-197
catnip, 66-67
commercial foods, 98-100
cats
communicable diseases, 153
community comforts, 6-7
communities, cat acceptance, 6-7
cost of ownership, 7-8
companionship, cat trait selection,
history, 4-5
20-21
home placement, 241-242
confinement laws, 73
responsibilities, 8-10
congenital problems, 232
selection, 12-21
constipation, 160, 244
shows, 215-226
contact allergies, 158
catus, 5
continuous reinforcement, 190
CDC (Centers for Disease Control
core vaccinations, 139-140
and Prevention), rabies, 140
corncobs, litter, 113
Index 275
correcting bad behaviors, 124-132 Feline Lower Urinary Tract

corrosives, 177 Disease (FLUTD), 155-156
costs kidney, 160
buying cats, 30-31 liver, 160
cat ownership, 7-8 transmission, 38
coughs, 138 upper respiratory, 157
counseling, pet loss, 263-264 disinfectants, litter box cleanup, 115
covers, claws, 94 distemper, 139
crates, 46, 117 DLH (domestic longhair), 12
creature comforts, aging cats, DNA testing, pedigree verification,
255-256 15
cryptorchids, 218 domestic cats (Felis catus), 4
domestic longhair (DLH), 12
D domestic shorthair (DSH), 12
Domestics, selecting, 12-16
down, command training, 194-195
dairy treats, 100
drugs
deaths, 259-265
administering, 166-168
declawing, 92-93
allergies, 159
dehydration, 138, 162, 244
catnip, 66-67
deliveries, births, 234-238
dry (noneffusive) FIP, 153
demodectic mange, 144
dry foods, 99
dental care, 88-91
DSH (domestic shorthair), 12
depression, 138
dermatitis, allergies, 159
destructive scratching, training, E
131-132
development, kittens, 238-241 ears
diabetes, 161 grooming, 87-88
diarrhea, 138, 159, 162-163 inflammation, 159
diets eating, 96-106
aging cat sensitivity, 253 effusive (wet) FIP, 153
bad breath cause, 89 elimination
food, 96-103 aging cats, 251-252
schedule, 105-106 correcting problem behaviors,
supplements, 103 124-127
weight control, 103-104 emergencies
diseases evacuations, 171-173
catching from cat, 146-147 first-aid
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus basics, 174-180
(FIV), 154-155 supplies, 170-171
Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP), veterinarians, 181-184
153-154
Feline leukemia virus (FeLV), 156
environments, separation anxiety, females

123 cat trait, 18
epilepsy, 163 determining sex, 240
Ethylene glycol, 178 feral cats, 4, 37
etiquette, cat shows, 224-225 fetching, command training, 196-197
euthanizing, 258-265 fevers, 138
evacuations, emergencies, 171-173 FHV (Feline herpes virus), 157
exams, dental care, 90-91 finals ring, cat shows, 224
exercise, aging cats, 252 FIP (feline infectious peritonitis),
eyes 140, 153-154
aging cats, 249 first-aid
vision, 61-62 basics, 174-180
supplies, 170-171
F FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency
Virus), 154-155
fleas, 142
family, introducing cat, 51-55
allergies, 158
FCV (Feline calicivirus), 157
insecticides, 177
fears, behavior prevention, 120-122
flehman reaction, 60
FECV (Feline Enteric Coronavirus),
flehming, 60
153
FLUTD (Feline Lower Urinary
feeding, 96-103
Tract Disease), 155-156
Felidae, 5
food, 47
Feline calicivirus (FCV), 139, 157
allergies, 158
feline distemper, 139
bowls, 48
Feline Enteric Coronavirus (FECV),
commercial, 98-100
153
homemade, 101-103
Feline herpes virus (FHV), 157
nutrients, 96-98
poisoning, 178
(FIV), 154-155
schedule, 105-106
feline infectious peritonitis (FIP),
weight control, 103-104
140, 153-154
fractures, first-aid, 180
Feline leukemia virus (FeLV), 140,
fungus, ringworms, 143
156
FUS (feline urologic syndrome), 155
Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease
(FLUTD), 155-156
feline lymphoma, 164 G
feline rhinotracheitis virus, 139, 157
feline urologic syndrome (FUS), 155 gastrointestinal changes, aging cats,
Felis catus (domestic cat), 4 244
Felis libyca (African wildcat), 4 genetics
FeLV (Feline leukemia virus), 140, breeding inheritance, 233-234
156 separation anxiety, 123
gingivitis, bad breath cause, 89
Index 277
glands intestinal worms, 144-145

aging cats, 247-248 lymphoma, 164
anal, 160 mange, 143-144
pheromones, 60 medications, administering,
grooming, 82 166-168
aging cats, 254 pancreas, 161
bathing, 84-87 recognizing symptoms, 152
brushing, 83-84 ringworm, 143
claws, 92-94 thyroid problems, 164
ears, 87-88 ticks, 142-143
supplies, 47 veterinarian, 135-141
teeth, 88-91 vomiting, 165-166
gum disease, 88 hearing, 62-63, 248-249
heart, aging cats, 247-248
H heartworms, 49, 145-146
hereditary problems, 232
herpes, FHV (Feline herpes virus),
hairballs, 83
157
handheld clickers, 109
HHP (Household Pet), cat show
hazardous products, 44
category, 216
health
history, cats, 4-5
aging cats, 252-254
homeless cats, adoption, 31-37
allergies, 158-159
homemade foods, 101-103
altering, 148-149
homes, preparation for cat, 43-55
anal glands, 160
hospice care, 259
care, ownership costs, 8
household cleaners, 178
catching disease from cat,
Household Pet (HHP), cat show
146-147
category, 216
check-ups, bring cat home, 48-49
humane traps, 35
constipation, 160
hyperthroidism, 164
diabetes, 161
diarrhea, 162-163
diseases, 160 I
Feline Immunodeficiency
Virus (FIV), 154-155 ICAT (International Cat Agility
Feline infectious peritonitis Tournaments), 225
(FIP), 153-154 identification tags, 77-78
Feline leukemia virus (FeLV), idiopathic epilepsy, 163
156 immune systems, Feline
Feline Lower Urinary Tract Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV),
Disease (FLUTD), 155-156 154-155
upper respiratory, 157 incomplete proteins, 97
epilepsy, 163 indoors versus outside, 69-72
fleas, 142 inhalant allergens, 158
heartworms, 145-146 inheritance, breeding, 233-234
intermediate hosts, tapeworms, 145 lead poisoning, 177

intermittent reinforcement, 190 leashes, training, 193-194
internal organs, aging cats, 247-248 legal issues, 73-74
International Cat Agility lethal medications, 245
Tournaments (ICAT), 225 leukemia, FeLV (Feline leukemia
The International Cat Association virus), 156
(TICA), 219 licenses, 73
international travel, 207-208 liners, litter box, 113
intestinal worms, 144-145 liquid medications, administering,
intramuscular vaccinations, 141 168
introduction to home, 50-56 listlessness, 138
irresponsible purchasing locations, litter box, 48
42 training, 111-115, 124-128
itching, allergies, 159 types, 112-114
liver
J-K aging cats, 247-248
diseases, 160
lodging, travel, 208-209
Jacobson’s organ, 60
loss of appetite, 138
lost and found, 74-78
kennels, boarding, 209-211
lungs, aging cats, 247-248
kibble, 99
lymphoma, 164
kidneys
aging cats, 247-248
diseases, 160 M
kittens
adoption, 37 males
cat show category, 216 cat trait, 18
cat traits, 18-19 determining sex, 240
characteristics for selection, 26-27 mange, 143-144
determining sex, 240 Marine Toads, 177
development, 238-241 matching, kitten selection, 27
home placement, 241-242 mating, females, 26
mills, irresponsible purchase medications
location, 41-42 administering, 166-168
selection, 25-27 human, 177
kitty-proofing homes, 43-46 lethal, 245
medicines, heartworms, 146
L microchips, 36, 47, 77
milk, 100
minerals, diet, 97
labor, births, 236-238
missing cats, 74-78
lactose intolerance, 100
mites, mange, 143-144
larvae, tapeworms, 145
“mixed breeds,” 12
laws, 73-74
moisturizing skin, 84
Index 279
monorchids, 218 Panleukopenia, Feline, 139

mothers, primary pet caretakers, 6 papers, registration, 15-16
mourning, aging cat death, 263 paralysis, 138
moving, travel preparations, 212-213 parasites, 144-146
muscles, aging cats, 245-247 paws
trick training, 195
N whiskers, 58
pedigrees, 15-16
perforated intestines, 102
names
periodontal diseases, 88
selection, 49
petroleum products, 177
tags, 47
pets
nasal vaccinations, 141
grief counseling, 263-264
neighbors, outdoor cats, 71-72
introducing to cat, 54-55
Nepeta cataria, 67
stores, irresponsible purchase
Nepeta mussini, 67
location, 40-41
neutering, 148-149
pheromones, 60
nicotines, 44, 178
phobias, noise, 122
noise phobias, 122
phosphorus poisoning, 177
noncore vaccinations, 140
pigmentation, allergies, 159
noneffusive (dry) FIP, 153
pills, administering, 167
nonpurebred cats, selecting, 12-16
pine oil, litter box cleanup, 115
noses, 60
placement, kittens, 241-242
notoedric mange, 144
poisoning, first-aid, 176-180
nutrients, food, 96-98
positive reinforcement, 109-110,
nutrition, 96-106
188-190
potty training, 111-112
O correcting elimination problems,
124-127
office visits, veterinarians, 137-138 litter box cleanup, 114-115
oily skin, 159 spraying, 127-128
onychectomy, 92 types of litter, 112-114
operant conditioning, 109 predation, 71
organophosphates, 177 pregnancies, toxoplasmosis in women,
outside versus indoors, 69-72 147
overweight cats, 103-104 premiership, cat show category, 216
ownership preparations
costs, 7-8 births, 234-235
number limits, 73-74 cat shows, 217-221
prevention
P heartworms, 145-146
problem behaviors, 111, 120-132
prides, 63
pancreas, 161
private adoptions, 34-35
pancreatitis, 161
problem behaviors, 111

prevention, 120-132
S
proteins, 96-97
salamanders, 177
public transportation, 205-207
sarcomas, 141
purchasing cats
sarcoptic mange, 144
bringing home, 43-56
scabies, 144
costs, 30-31
scent glands, 60
irresponsible locations, 40-42
schedules, feeding, 105-106
purebreds, 37-39
scorpions, 177
purebreds
scrapbooks, 262
breeding, 229-242
scratching
cat shows, 215-226
first-aid, 175
purchasing, 37-39
training, 115-116, 129-132
selecting, 12-16
scratching posts, 47
purring, 65
seizures, epilepsy, 163
selecting cats
Q-R adoption, 31-37
adults, 28-30
qualities of food, food amount deter- bring home, 43-55
mination, 103 costs, 30-31
quarantines, international travel, 207 irresponsible locations, 40-42
queening, 236 kittens, 25-27
queens, 41, 232-233 purebreds, 12-16, 37-39
traits, 17-21
rabies, 140 selective breeding, 14
railroad passenger cars, pet policies, semi-moist foods, 99
208 senior cats
raw diets, 101-103 behavioral changes, 249-252
Red Cross, first-aid classes, 174 comforts, 255-256
registration papers, 15-16 death, 259-265
registries, 15 grooming, 254
reinforcement, positive, 109-110, healthcare, 252-254
188-190 physical changes, 243-249
remote corrections, 127 quality of life, 258
rescue programs, adoption, 33-34 senses, 57-63
responsibilities, cat ownership, 8-10 separation anxiety, behavior
retained testicles, 218 prevention, 122-124
rewards, positive reinforcement, sex
109-110, 188-190 cat trait, 18
Rhinotracheitis, 139 determining, 240
ringworms, 143 shampoos, bathing cats, 85
rodenticide anticoagulants, 177 shaping, 189
roundworms, 145 shelters, adoption, 31-33
rye, diet, 96
Index 281
show cats, claws, 93 tastes, 61

shows, 215-226 taurine, 99
sitting, command training, 194-195 taxonomy, 5
skin tearing, 138
aging cats, 244-245 teeth, grooming, 88-91
eruptions, 159 testicles, retained, 218
grooming, 82-87 therapy cats, 197-199
mange, 143-144 thyroid problems, 164
patch tests, 159 TICA (The International Cat
sleeping, 65-66 Association), 219
smells, nose senses, 60 ticks, 142-143
sneezing, 138 tobacco products, 44
socialization, 63-65 toilet practices, litter box training,
sodium bentonite, 113 111-115
spaying, 148-149 toms, 41
spray bottles, cat shows, 220 tongues, blisters and ulcers, 138
spraying, correcting problem toothpastes, 89
behaviors, 127-128 touch
sprouts, diet, 96 command training, 195
standards, breeds, 216 whiskers, 58-59
stomach, constipation, 160 toxic plants, 44
strays, 4, 35-37 toxins, 178
stresses, behavior prevention, toxo, 146
120-122 Toxoplasma gondii, 146
strings, 162 toxoplasmosis, 146-147
subcutaneous vaccinations, 141 toys, 47, 67
supplements, 103 training
supplies basics, 110-111
bathing cats, 86 behavior prevention, 120-132
bring cat home, 46-48 benefits, 108
cat shows, 221-223 coming when called, 191-193
first-aid, 170-171 commands, 194-197
identification tags, 77-78 crates, 117
litter types, 112-114 elimination, aging cats, 251-252
swelling, allergies, 159 leashes, 193-194
symptoms litter box, 111-115
health care, 138 positive reinforcement, 109-110,
recognizing, 152 188-190
scratching, 115-116
T therapy cats, 197-199
trains, pet policies, 208
traits, selecting cats, 17-21
tags, identification, 77-78
transportation, 201-208
tapedum lucidum, 62
traps, humane, 35
tapeworms, 145
traveling, 201-213
treats, 48, 100
W
trimming claws, 93-94
“walking dandruff,” 144
warmth, aging cats, 255-256
U water
bowls, 48
ulcers, tongue, 138 diet, 97
undescended testicles, 218 weakness, 138
upper respiratory diseases, 157 weight control, 103-104
urinary tract, Feline Lower Urinary wet (effusive) FIP, 153
Tract Disease (FLUTD), 155-156 wet foods, 100
whiskers, 58-59
V wildlife, cat impact, 72
wood shavings, litter, 114
worms
vaccinations, 138-141
heartworms, 145-146
vegetables, diets, 96
intestinal, 144-145
veterinarians, 135-136
cat ownership costs, 8
diets, 99 X-Y-Z
emergencies, 181-184
office visits, 137-138 yarn, 162
scheduling health check-ups,
48-49 zoonosis, 146-147
selection, 136-137 zoonotic diseases, 146-147
vaccinations, 138-141
vibrissae, 58-59
viruses
(FIV), 154-155
FeLV (Feline leukemia virus), 156
upper respiratory disease, 157
vision, 61-62, 249
visits, veterinarians, 137-138
vitamin D3 (cholecarciferol), 177
vitamins, diet, 97
vomeronasal organ, 60
vomiting, 138, 165-166
allergies, 159
forcing cat, 180

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Getting and

A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

Copyright © 2005 by Sheila Webster Boneham, Ph.D.

Publisher: Marie Butler-Knight Copy Editor: Nancy Wagner

Part 2: Here Kitty, Kitty: Where to Find Your Special Cat 23

Part 3: The Care and Feeding of Felis catus 79

Part 5: More Ways to Enjoy Your Cat 185

Part 6: The Circle of Life 227

Part 2: Here Kitty, Kitty: Where to Find Your Special Cat 23

Where Not to Buy a Cat 40

Lost and Found 74

Part 3: The Care and Feeding of Felis catus 79

10 The Not-So-Well-Behaved Cat 119

Part 4: Keeping Your Cat Healthy 133

Other Health Problems 158

Part 5: More Ways to Enjoy Your Cat 185

Cats Without Borders: International Travel 207

Part 6: The Circle of Life 227

Routine Health Care for Your Older Cat 252

Carole Nelson Douglas

Sometimes the talk centers on feline health:

Training and behavior questions are common, too:

What’s in This Book

I’ve divided the book into six parts:

Cat Nip Hissss

Steve Elmer encouraged me to take more photos at the Allen

(Photo by Sheila Boneham)

Cats and People Through Time

(Photo courtesy of Audubon Nature Institute)

Relations between people and cats haven’t always been good.

Cats, Kids, and Community

(Photo by Debi Bishop)

Beyond their households, cats are a frequent source of friction

The Cost of Owning a Cat

typically requires only routine veterinary care once a year (see

A Lifetime of Love and Responsibility

(Photo courtesy of Roger Boneham)

information on request. As with any subject, some sources are more

The Least You Need to Know

Purebreds and Domestics

(Photo by Christy Wagner)

Domestic shorthairs and longhairs make wonderful pets. You do

(Photo by Sheila Boneham)

We often think of purebred cats in terms of looks alone—the

Do Purebreds Need Papers?

If you’re buying a purebred kitten or cat, you should see the

(Photo by Jeff Pierson)

A longhaired cat might be just right for you if you have

brushing to keep their hair from tangling or matting. Most cats

Blue Collar or Pink?

When you choose an adult,

Even a simple toy is great fun for a kitten.

Other Traits to Consider

(Photo by Sheila Boneham)

other company and encourage each other to play and exercise.

What About Allergies?

Once you bring a cat into your home, a regular routine of

You can also do a few things to control allergen output directly:

The Least You Need to Know

2 Here Kitty, Kitty:

(Photo courtesy of Penny Crowley)

Now that you’ve decided whether you want a kitten or adult,