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Formulating Towards Fairer Skin: Marie Ollagnier, Bryan Moran, Maria Fe Boo
Formulating Towards Fairer Skin: Marie Ollagnier, Bryan Moran, Maria Fe Boo
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Figure 1: Skin Pigmentation Mechanisms Physical sunscreens and other physical whiteners are used as well.
Pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide offer instant skin
Tyrosinase converts tyrosine to
dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA)
lightening and whitening effect, reflect and refract UVA and UVB rays,
and protect skin from darkening effect of prolonged sunlight exposure.
Through DOPA is converted In the presence of
auto-oxidation dopaquinone cysteine or glutathione Other skin whitening ingredients:
• Stearic acid, when used at high levels (13-16%) has some visual
whitening effect on skin in pearlized formulations.
Dopaquinone is Dopaquinone is converted to
converted to cysteinyl DOPA or glutathione • Chemical UV filters prevent sun tanning and protect fair skin from
DOPA to form pheomelanin
dopachrome
(yellow-red pigment)
sun damage (dark spots and blemishes).
• Traditional ingredients such as saffron and papaya extracts are
Dopachrome is converted to
dihydroxyindole or dihydroxyindole-
commonly used in ayurvedic treatments and other natural products
2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) to form to remove dark spots, exfoliate the skin to reveal newer cells, and
eumelanin (black-brown pigment)
restore skin.
All authors affiliated with The Lubrizol Advanced Material, Inc., Brecksville, Ohio, USA, e-mail: personalcare@lubrizol.com
and Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., Shanghai, Republic of China
REGIONAL TRENDS
ASIA LATIN AMERICA
Asia currently makes up approximately 90 percent of the market in skin Skin whitening is a small but growing functionality in skin care products,
whiteners by value. In the region after the 2009 recession, intensified especially in Mexico, Brazil and Venezuela. In Latin America the people
competition in the professional market and increased job insecurity are historically from diverse ethnic backgrounds. Due to their genetics
means the whitening trend is unlikely to decrease. With rising disposable and sun exposure, they are prone to an increased incidence of skin
incomes in emerging regions consumers have more money to spend on disorders such as melasma or hyperpigmentation. The skin lightening
cosmetic products. Pale skin has always been considered proof of beauty applications in Latin America are also broad in type, however are not
in Asian markets as Asian people associate fair skin with career success limited to the face. While the main applications are facial moisturizers,
and social status. masks, and nourishers/anti-ageing formulations; body care formulas
focusing on elbows and knees as well as antiperspirant and deodorant
In Asia in particular, skin whitening actives and claims can be found in a formulations are also very popular.
wide range of applications, not limited to lotions or creams. Consumers
in Japan, China, Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, Philippines and Malaysia The most popular actives used in Latin America are: UV absorbers and
are using whitening products in most of their beauty routines as UV filters, ascorbyl glucoside, arbutin, niacinamide and botanicals.
hyper pigmentation (dark spots/pimples) appears earlier on Asian skin
compared to wrinkles and loss of firmness. It is not only a market New product developments in whitening skin care are focused on
segment, but a functionality required across applications such as masks, providing a more even tone and helping to reduce and prevent spots and
moisturizers, anti-aging formulas and toners. decoloration. In Brazil and Venezuela, skin whitening is seen more as a
complementary benefit added to new products. Skin whitening products
India, where whitening facial care recorded a 13% growth in 2009, is are mainly in the nourishers/anti-agers with 8% (Venezuela) and 12%
the third largest market behind Japan and China. The facial moisturizers (Brazil) of sales. Deodorant is also a main category but the mechanism
segment dominated by whitening (84%) in India is forecasted to grow at is very different.
a compound annual growth rate of 10.5% from 2009 to 2014 according
to Euromonitor, 2010. OTHER REGIONS
Other regions of the world are increasing their demand for skin whiten-
Fair skin has always been considered as beautiful in India and is ing. In North America and Europe, the use of skin whitening actives is
associated with power and success. It is in fact an important criterion related to claims such as “Radiance” and “Brightness”. Consumption of
in arranged marriages and is entwined with Hinduism’s caste system skin lightening products and use of skin whitening actives in anti-aging
complex social hierarchy where people in higher castes tend to have products might see a strong increase in the future as a significant por-
fairer skin. tion of the population are of Asian, African-Caribbean or Indian origin.
Whatever the skin type, dermal hyper-pigmentation is part of an extrinsic
“Whitening” and “fairness” (meaning fair skin, not equality) are the
dermal aging mechanism due to life-time exposure to sun damage. In
most prominent marketing claims in skin care in India. In contrast to
the Middle-East and Africa (MEA), color complexion creams and lighten-
the rest of Asia’s cross-application approach, 90% of the whitening
ing creams are highly popular in South Africa and some other countries
formulations are found in facial moisturizers.
but often use highly hazardous ingredients aimed to bleach the skin.
The most popular actives in India, according to Euromonitor are: niacin/ Increased health concerns could lead MEA consumers to look at milder
niacinamide (70%), licorice extracts (15%), saffron extracts and other skin whitening solutions.
botanicals (15%). Sensory preferences include creams that are stearic
acid-based where high levels of stearic acid (13-16% loading) are TECHNOLOGIES
providing a soapy/heavy sensory and a pearlized appearance. In India, The challenges in skin whitening are in the stabilization of physical
this platform is preferred due to a matte finish appropriate in humid/hot whiteners, nonionic actives, and actives containing medium and high
climate, instant physical whiteness, the perception of effectiveness. and electrolyte levels. (Table 2)
product shelf-stability.
2
Table 2: Product Selector Guide
FORMULATING WITH NONIONIC SKIN FORMULA 1: Asian Brightening Secret: Refreshing Skin Hydrator F-0078(AP)
LIGHTENING ACTIVES INCI Name, Tradename Weight %
Nonionic skin lightening actives like absorbic acid 2-glucoside, arbutin, PART A
licorice extract and papaya extract are easy to formulate. They can Deionized Water 89.41
be used in oil-in-water emulsions without impacting the emulsifier Disodium EDTA 0.02
performance of traditional emulsifiers, e.g. Glucamate™ SSE-20 and
Carbomer, Carbopol® Ultrez 10 Polymer 0.35
Glucate™ SS emulsifiers, or polymeric emulsifiers such as Pemulen™
Methyl Gluceth-20, Glucam™ E-20 Humectant 1.00
and Novemer™ polymers. They can be thickened and stabilized by
PART B
Carbopol® polymers.
Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, 3.00
In the Asian Brightening Secret: Refreshing Skin Hydrator F-0078(AP) Schercemol™ NGDO Ester
sample formula, Carbopol® Ultrez 10 polymer stabilizes the licorice root Dimethicone (and) Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Velvesil™ DM 0.30
extract and allows this hydrator to break quickly on the skin, offering Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glucate SS Emulsifier
™
0.25
a cool watery sensation that awakens the user. Chrysanthemum and PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, 0.75
honeysuckle flower extracts, which are commonly used in Traditional Glucamate™ SSE-20 Emulsifier
Chinese Medicine for cooling, soothing and calming, are included in this BHT 0.02
formulation. Schercemol™ NGDO ester imparts a light afterfeel.
PART C
Sodium Hydroxide (18%) 0.40**
PRODUCT PROPERTIES:
PART D
Appearance Off -white emulsion
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Propylene Glycol, Glucose, 0.40
pH 5.25 – 5.75 Water, Extrapone® Licorice Root 607646
Viscosity (mPa·s)*** 10,000 – 16,000 Chrysanthemum Indicum Flower Extract, Propylene Glycol, Water, 0.30
Yield Value (dyn/cm²) 500 – 700 Extrapone® Wild Chrysanthemum
Stability: Passed 3 months @ 45°C, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Propylene Glycol, 0.30
3 months @ 25°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw Water, Actipone® Honeysuckle
***Brookfield RVT or DV-II @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #5 spindle, measured at 24 hours Deionized Water 3.00
PART E
Phenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Butyl-, Propyl-, (and) 0.50
Isobutylparaben, Phenonip®
**Typical amount, q.s. to pH 5.25 - 5.75
3
This next formulation, Asian Beauty Skin Brightening Cream O-0020(AP), CONTAINING MEDIUM ELECTROLYTE LEVELS
is a light day cream that provides skin brightening to help maintain fair Skin lightening actives containing medium electrolyte levels such as
and younger looking skin. Glucam™ E-20 humectant provides non- paper mulberry extract and nano vitamin C can be thickened and
tacky long lasting moisturization and a supple effect on skin. This cold stabilized by more electrolyte tolerant Carbopol® polymers such as
processed formulation is stabilized using the versatile PSN – (Pemulen™ Carbopol® Ultrez 20 polymer, by higher levels of other Carbopol®
polymeric emulsifiers, SilSense® specialty silicones, and Novemer™ polymers, or by Carbopol® polymers blended with electrolyte resistant
polymers) Polymeric Emulsion System, which provides excellent sensory thickeners. Emulsifiers particularly useful in these formulations are
properties. Use of this technology provides long term robust stability and Glucamate™ SSE-20 and Glucate™ SS emulsifiers, Pemulen™ TR-1 or
sensory attractiveness. Schercemol™ CO ester provides a light, dry feel TR-2 polymeric emulsifiers, and Novemer™ EC-1 polymer.
that is non-oily.
Carbopol® Ultrez 20 polymer is an electrolyte tolerant polymer that
FORMULA 2: Asian Beauty Skin Brightening Cream O-0020(AP) provides creamier initial aesthetics with longer playtime (Figure 2).
FORMULATING
INCI Name, Tradename WITH SKIN LIGHTENING ACTIVES
Weight % Carbopol® Ultrez 20 polymer also offers good compatibility with 3 wt%
PART A nano vitamin C (a multi-coated ascorbic acid in nano form) providing
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Uvinul® MC-80 7.50 stable excellent viscosity and yield value, high clarity, and moderate-to-
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Finsolv TN ®
3.00 high viscosity with smooth, long flow properties.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Schercemol™ CO Ester 3.00
Table 3: Compatibility of Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer and Nano Vitamin C
Hydrogenated Polydecene, PureSyn® 2 2.00
Dimethicone,TSF 451-50A (50 cst) (or) SF-96-50(50 cst) 3.00 Viscosity Yield Value pH Clarity
(mPa.s) (dyn/cm²) (%T)
Tocopheryl Acetate, Copherol® 1250 0.10
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, 0.30 1 wt% Carbopol® 35,500 2,960 6.48 99
Pemulen™ TR-1 Polymer Ultrez 20 polymer
PART D 10,000
Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer (and) Mineral Oil (and) 1.00 5,000
Polysorbate 85, Novemer™ EC-1 Polymer (27 wt% TS)
0
PART E 0.00 0.10 0.20 0.30 0.40 0.50 0.60 0.70 0.80 0.90 1.00
Deionized Water 10.00 wt% Salt (Sodium Chloride)
Arbutin 1.00
PART F
DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, 0.30
Glydant® Plus Liquid
Novemer™ EC-1 polymer is ideal for emulsifying formulations containing
these actives. With the INCI Name: Acrylates/acrylamide copolymer (and)
mineral oil (and) polysorbate 85, it is a liquid inverse emulsion of a pre-
PRODUCT PROPERTIES: neutralized, highly branched, crosslinked anionic polymer. This multifunc-
Appearance Soft white cream
tional rheology modifier is compatible with electrolytes; is easy to use in
pH 5.5 – 6.2
cold and hot processes; and enhances sensory benefits in formulations
Viscosity (mPa·s)*** 25,000 – 30,000
by providing a creamy touch, dry soft afterfeel, and no tack.
Stability Passed 3 months @ 45°C
Because it is lightly crosslinked, contains a very low level of high HLB
Passed 5 freeze/thaw cycles
emulsifier, and is highly branched this material works to emulsify or
*** Brookfield DV-II @ 20 rpm, spindle #6 @ 25°C, measured @ 24 hours
assist in emulsification of a variety of oil phases. This material also
demonstrates the ability to suspend inorganic pigments, including zinc
oxide, in physical sunscreens.
4
The data in Figures 3 and 4 shows that this material is compatible FORMULATION 3: Underarm Roll-On Brightening Cream O-0045(LA)
with various mono and divalent electrolytes. Novemer™ EC-1 polymer INCI Name, Tradename Weight %
provides unmatched viscosity building at lower and at higher polymer
PART A
loading levels with mono (Figure 3) and multivalent (Figure 4) ions.
Deionized Water 76.39
Figure 3: Electrolyte Tolerance in the Presence of Monovalent Ions Disodium EDTA, Edeta BD ®
0.05
Na Ascorbyl Phosphate (1 wt% polymer solids) Sodium Metabisulfite, Covastyle MBS 0.05
30,000
Polyacrylamide Methyl Gluceth-20, Glucam™ E-20 Humectant 1.00
25,000 & C13-14
Isoparaffin & PART B
20,000 Laureth-7 Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Schercemol™ CO Ester 1.50
15,000 Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Schercemol 185 Ester ™
3.00
5
For systems containing > 1% TS of sodium ascorbyl phosphate or mag- CONCLUSION
nesium ascorbyl phosphate, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 polymer can be com- The many options for formulators to deliver skin whitening systems that
bined with nonionic rheology modifiers such as xanthan gum or HEC. delight consumers and encourage repeat use also bring significant chal-
Combining xanthan gum with Carbopol® polymers is recommended lenges to stabilizing the actives and achieving the right product aesthet-
because the thickening and stabilizing is more effective with Carbopol® ics to reach market sensory targets. From traditional rheology modifiers
polymers than xanthan gum by itself; the aesthetics and sensory of to inverse emulsion polymers, Lubrizol’s Noveon® Consumer Specialties
xanthan gum are improved by blending with Carbopol® polymers; and skin care product line offers many options to help formulators achieve
combinations thereof give some options in formulating high electrolyte- their skin lightening formulating goals.
containing systems. In the figures below, the data shows that in the
presence of electrolytes, blending xanthan gum with Carbopol® Ultrez REFERENCES
20 polymer exhibits higher viscosity and higher yield value (Figure 5) Euromonitor 2010 (data from 2009)
and Carbopol® Ultrez 20 polymer can improve the aesthetics of xanthan
gum and the combination creates slower break and a cushiony, non- TRADEMARKS
tacky emulsion. • Carbopol®, Noveon® and SilSense® are registered trademarks of
The Lubrizol Corporation
Figure 5: Synergy between Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer and Xanthan
Gum - Viscosity • Glucam™, Glucamate™, Glucate™, Novemer™, Pemulen™ and
Schercemol™ are trademarks of The Lubrizol Corporation
Viscosity Yield Value
Viscosity with 0.05% NaCl YV with 0.05% NaCl • Actipone® and Extrapone® are registered trademarks of Symrise
35,000 1,600
Viscosity (RV, 20 rpm, mPa.s)
1,400
• Copherol® is a registered trademark of Cognis
30,000
Yield Value (dyn/cm2)
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results to be obtained. The information often is based on laboratory work with small-scale equipment and does not necessarily indicate end product performance or reproducibility. Formulations presented
may not have been tested for stability and should be used only as a suggested starting point. Because of the variations in methods, conditions and equipment used commercially in processing these
materials, no warranties or guarantees are made as to the suitability of the products for the applications disclosed. Full-scale testing and end product performance are the responsibility of the user. Lubrizol
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subsidiary of The Lubrizol Corporation. © Copyright 2011 Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
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