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Angel Fish 1956 PDF
Angel Fish 1956 PDF
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ShtlMER /WUAPjbtC Vr
By Wilfred Whitern, F.Z.S. with special chap-
ters by Dr. Leonard P. Schultz, Curator of
Fishes, Smithsonian Institution, Washington,
D.C. and Mr. & Mrs. Fred Ludwig, Detroit,
Michigan pioneer breeders of the All-black
and Lacetail Angelfish.
Species
P. altutn*
P. alt urn \
P. sealant X
P. scalar e\
P. eimekei)
P. eimekeii
Species
P. a/«i/?»°
P. altum\
P. scalare\
P. scalar e\
P. eimekei\
P. eimekei\
and Ahl, have found that they may have made scale counts in two
I
ways. WhenI counted the oblique scale rows from
the upper edge
of the opercular openings (at the
rear of the head) in a straight
line to the midbase of the caudal
fin along the lower side of the
peduncular lateral line, I invariably got a count of 31
to 35. Now
when I counted the oblique scale
rows from the rear of the head
(on the same examples) above the lateral lines, my
results were from
44 to 47. It followed then, in comparing the statements by these
authors that they had confused and mixed both
kinds of scale-row
counts.
For example, Pellegrin in his original 1903 description of Ptero-
phyllum ahum gives the scales along the back as 47, and those along
the sides from 31 to 34. Regan in 1905 for P. ahum
based on two of
Pellegrin's specimens gives the number on the back as 55
of scales
and those on the midsides as 41 to 47. Dr.
Ahl in 1928 repeated
Regan's counts for P. ahum. Obviously someone was wrong.
If the reader will examine the table
which gives my counts he
will observe that 3 species of Pterophyllum actually do exist. This
agrees with Dr. Ahl's conclusions when he described P.
eimekei but
for different reasons. To distinguish all three kinds
is not a simple
matter.
An examination of the table indicates that P. ahum always may
be distinguished by the high number of soft dorsal rays, about
28
or 29. This figure does not overlap with the other two species.
There-
fore, we may identify ahum by counting only the soft
dorsal fin rays.
P. ahum does not appear to have been used as an
aquarium fish.
The next question to answer is which of the other two species
represented by my counts should be assigned the name P. eimekei?
All we have to use in making this decision are the counts
and the
figure presented by Dr. Ahl in 1928. I have represented
Dr., Ahl's
counts by means of an "X" in the table. It may be observed
that
Ahl's data for eimekei agrees beautifully with the counts made
by me
on the most abundantly available form of angelfish to aquarists. I
agree that eimekei is a valid species.
I do not agree with Dr. Ahl's understanding of P. scalare. The
wide range and distribution of his counts indicates that he had a
mixture of both eimekei and scalare.
There are two characters that help to distinguish eimekei and
scalare among the specimens in the National Collections. These char-
acters involve the counting with very great care and accuracy
the
number of oblique scale rows from the upper edge of the opercular
opening to the base of the caudal fin in a straight line just below the
peduncular lateral line. For eimekei they vary from 28 to 36 and for
scalare from 38 to 40. Probably if I had as many examples of scalare
as I had of eimekei there would be a small amount of overlapping
of the scale counts.
The second character may be up by adding the number of
set
scale rows to the number of soft The two groups of
dorsal rays.
figures thus obtained are separated. Thus by making the counts
indicated, each individual of the two species may be distinguished
with considerable confidence. Since the scales are very small counts
must be made under some magnification.
Perhaps some day, if I am fortunate enough to obtain for study
a larger number of specimens thought to be scalare and ahum, I may
discover other differences to distinguish them. At the moment I
conclude that scalare and eimekei are very closely related. Their
color patterns when preserved
are so much alike that the only certain
way each individual is to laboriously count the scale rows
to identify
and fin rays and then determine how they fit into my table. Probably
only an expert ichthyologist has sufficient training to do this
accurately.
my specimens of P. scalare are much larger
All of they measure (
7
RANGE AND HABITAT w. l. whitern, f.z.s.
plant. The centre of the river is chiefly broken rock and mud that
is practically barren of plants. The Angelfish being of very timid and
highly nervous nature live within the dense vegetation on the south
side of the river. They seldom venture out into mid-stream and never
inhabit the north side.
Another feature that emphasizes Nature's effort to protect the
weaker members of its Kingdom is, that within this area there can
always be found another member of the Cichlid family. This is the
Cichlasoma festivum, which grows to much larger proportions. It is
a well established fact that the Angelfish will await a school of these
larger fish to pass, whether they are going up or down stream, and
then tag along behind using the C. festivum as a protective guard
against larger fish. It is also well kown that wherever you may dis-
cover the Angelfish you will also find the C. festivum.
Fish will only grow to the size that the water content of the aquarium
into which they are placed will permit. Therefore, the larger the
This is what happens when fish are overcrowded. Note the short anal and dorsal fins.
Compare these with the normal babies of a month old. Photo by Timmerman.
aquarium, the more sturdy and larger the fish will grow. Angelfish
may be kept in an average size 5 gallon aquarium, but for the best
results in relation to growth and the possibility of successful spawn-
ing, a twenty-five gallon capacity aquarium is the minimum size
recommended.
From experiments that I have undertaken over several years
I have found that Angelfish thrive much better if the aquarium has
a greater depth than that of the normal stock aquarium. The. most
satisfactory results were attained in an aquarium 30 inches long, 20
inches high and 20 inches wide, in which there was one mated pair of
Angelfish. This size of an aquarium, apart from its greater eye appeal,
permits a much better planting arrangement, including the use of a
broad leaf Amazon Sword plant (Echinodorus) and the broad leaf
Cryptocoryne plants (Cryptocoryne griff ithi). The sword plant should
be placed in the centre of the aquarium, and a very dense planting of
the Cryptocorynes along the back and in the back corners. This plant-
ing arrangement permits a very large swimming area as well as
affording plenty of plants in which timid fish can hide.
One month old normal fry. Photo by Timmerman.
The water conditions for normal purposes, that is, where these
fish are in a purely display aquarium or included in a community
aquarium, should be the same pH and DH
as required for many
other varieties. It should be slightly acid — about pH 6.8 — and the
degree of hardness should not exceed 10 to 12 degrees. However,
when spawning is to be undertaken, then greater care must be given
to this very important matter, but this is explained more fully under
the heading — preparing the spawning aquarium.
for the average hobbyist this is not practical simply because X-ray
equipment is not readily available, particularly within the home.
10
However, as a guide and to assist the hobbyist in substantiating
these differences once a spawning has taken place, these visual differ-
ences of sex shown on Plate 1 are fully described as follows:
a. The first black vertical stripe that passes through the eye,
appears to be straighter in the male than in the female, in
the latter the stripe has a definite curve upwards towards the
commencement of the dorsal fin.
b. The spines at the base of the forward commencement of the
dorsal fin are more jagged and irregular in the male than
the female.
c. The space between the extended ventral fins (often referred
to as the "feelers") and the forward commencement of the
anal fin is shorter in length in the male and less curved in
the female.
d. The tube that emerges from the vent, just prior to spawning,
is shaped differently. In the male it appears to be pointed and
is carried at a slightly forward angle, whereas in the female,
it appears to be blunt and carried at a slight angle towards
the rear.
e. The lower jaw of the male slightly overlaps the upper jaw
which is the reverse in the female, that is, the upper jaw
appears to overlap the lower jaw.
and the thrill of awaiting the probable segregation into one or more
mated pairs as they mature.
At this size, the fish purchased can be presumed to be around
four months old. The minimum size of the aquarium should be of
fifty gallons capacity and equipped with aeration and Alteration.
these fish to a size of five to six inches in body depth. This size does
not include the dorsal or anal fins. This requires careful and nutri-
tious foods being given. These should include dry foods of high protein
value together with alternate feedings of such live foods as Daphnia,
brine shrimp, white worms and small garden worms (finely chopped).
I have found that daily feeding of scraped frozen chicken liver or
lean steak definitely stimulates a sturdy growth.
When these fish are about one year old, it is then time to keep
daily observation for mated pairs. When it is noticed that two par-
ticular fish stay together in one area of the aquarium, and they have
been together for at least six hours and chase all other fish away,
12
then safe to presume that they are a mated pair. It is not possible
it is
at this time to detect which is male or female, but this will be easily
observed once an actual spawning has taken place.
However, the most intricate part of the operation is yet to come,
that is, the removal of the two fish, This must be accomplished in
one operation, otherwise should you break them up, it is well known
that, once broken, a mated pair will rarely re-mate. This is another
unexplainable trait of the Angelfish.
have found that the most simple approach to the matter of
I
removing mated pairs is to turn off the lights above the aquarium in
which the fish are. There is less likelihood of causing them to break
apart to different areas within the aquarium simply because they do
not see the net being placed in the aquarium. There is usually suffi-
cient light from the room itself that permits you to see what you are
doing. Use a large net and try to capture both fish at the same time.
13
slightly acid. The Dh should be around 6 degrees of hardness.
It is important that, once the spawning pair have been placed
into the freshly set-up aquarium that the temperature should be
gradually increased to around 86 degrees Fahrenheit. This temper-
ature should be maintained until the young fry are at least four
weeks old as well as during the incubation period of the eggs.
There are some species of tropical fish that have preference for
certain times during the day to spawn, that is, some prefer the very
early morning hours, others around mid-afternoon. This aspect can-
not be applied to the Angelfish. They will spawn at any time during
the day or early evening. I have had experiences where the actual
spawning has taken place when the aquarium has been in complete
darkness. Usually the spawning time takes place about two hours
after the cleaning process has been finished.
First the pair will clean off the appointed spawning site.
14
Then the female lays her eggs and the male follows fertilizing them.
15
A closeup of the developing eggs. The eggs are held into the spawning site by a
fine, sticky string which comes from the head of the newly hatched fry. Photo by
Timmerman.
However, once the spawning is started, the female will lay the
eggs at the selected spot, always commencing at the bottom and
going in an upwards motion. The male follows immediately behind
and fertilizes the eggs as they are laid by the female.
The spawning usually takes between two to three hours. This is
more or less governed by the number of eggs laid. Age of the spawn-
ing pair will also have some bearing upon the number of eggs laid,
if very young, approximately two hundred to three hundred
eggs will
be the maximum whereas a more mature pair will lay anywhere
from eight hundred to fourteen hundred eggs.
Once the spawning has been completed, the spawning pair will
take turns fanning the eggs with their pectoral fins. The incubation
period is usually around five days.
Amajor problem now presents itself, that is, whether to leave the
pair with their spawning, remove them or remove the actual spawning.
This is a very difficult decision to make, especially if it is, the
first spawning. There has been no indication whether or not the
16
It should be pointed out at this time that there is a well founded
theory that the Angelfish have an instinct that they know whether
or not the spawning will produce a sturdy and healthy batch of
young fry. Because of this, they will often, after a period of two
days, devour the whole of spawning. This can happen to several
subsequent spawnings before the pair will permit one to hatch.
Personally, I believe there is a certain amount of established
the eggs to the point that they have hatched, and the young fry
17
have become free swimming, very little fear should
be entertained
that the parents will devour them. Usually
after reaching this stage
it can be more or less
assured that the parents will raise their
family to full maturity.
There is not a more beautiful sight than an aquarium
containing
the parents and a hundred or so young
Angels, and provided the
spawning aquarium is large enough, then there
is no reason why
the young fry cannot be left with the
parents until they are at least
three months old unless the parents breed
again in the meantime.
FEEDING
After the fry hatch from the eggs, nature itself
supplies the
food requirements for their first few days of life.
Attached to the
young fish, in the region below the lower jaw and the
commence-
ment of the anal fin there can be easily seen what
appears to be
a small bladder.
18
This is the yolk sac containing highly concentrated nutriment
and until this entirely disappears it is not necessary to supply any
other type of foods. During this time the young are usually attached
by a sticky thread to the spawning site.
After the disappearance of the yolk sac however, the initial
foods to be supplied must be given careful consideration. The general
practice is to give infusoria.
Infusoria is easily cultured, and there are many methods of
doing this; the usual method is to use "Infusoria tablets" purchased
from the local dealer.
There is always the danger of fouling the water when using
infusoria, caused by the fact that it is colorless and there is no
visual indication that it is being ingested by the young fry. An
overdose of infusoria can easily be recognized by its foul odor and
cloudy appearance.
Infusoria feeding should be given for a period of at least five
days. After this time, additional nutriment can be offered in the
form of the yolk of a hard boiled egg. This must be squeezed
through a piece of very fine linen, and again, care must be taken
not to give too much at one time.
Once the young fry have reached an age of approximately five
weeks they should be given frequent feedings of newly hatched
brine shrimp. As a supplement to this, finely scraped frozen chicken
liver or lean steak may be given.
When the fry have reached an age of ten weeks, finely chopped
white worms can be given, but not more than twice a week. Too
frequent feedings of white worms, because of their laxative qualities,
can cause harm that in some instances can prove fatal. This laxative
quality in white worms has a very undesirable effect upon the diges-
tive organs.
After the young fry have reached an age of three months it is
then safe to give feedings of any of the standard dry foods, but
this should be augmented occasionally with some other types of
live foods, if available.
According to the and number of young fry, it is essential
size
that the batch be divided up and placed into other aquaria. Remem-
ber, fish will only continue to grow according to the water content
in which they are expected to live. Overcrowding, or having the
fish in too small an aquarium can only result in poorly developed
and runted fish.
In conclusion, the hobbyist should remember that, patience and
care is vitally necessary if success is to be achieved. Haphazard
methods and indifference can only result in failure.
19
THE ALL BLACK ANGELFISH
by Julianna and Fred Ludwig
The first spawning of All-blacks accomplished by the Ludwig's of Detroit! Only a few
people have successfully bred an All-black to an All-black. Usually an All-black is
crossed with a Lacetail. The Ludwig's breed All-blacks to each other. Dr. Leonard P.
Schultz identified the All-blacks that the Ludwig's are breeding as a variety of the
P. eimeckei.
20
This community aquarium of All-black and lacetail Angelfish was photographed in
the aquarium of the Ludwig's of Detroit. They pioneered the All-black Angelfish and
were the first to produce 100% All-blacks.
The title of this article utilizes the term "All Black" in the adjec-
tive form only! It is neither our intention nor our privilege to attach a
name to this beautiful angelfish, a product of our untiring efforts down
through the years. Several articles (see TFH, April, 19541 have ap-
peared from time to time mentioning the legendary black angelfish in
very vague terms; nothing has been mentioned of a pure black fish. It
is our desire, as fanciers and admirers of truly fine aquarium fishes, to
21
i (•(>/ UlJflUllU III I liflLr\-C'l fXlll I hoto Credit: Aquaphoto by Oer»e vvoijshei'
First, our all black angelfish are ALL BLACK. Nowhere is there
any silver; there are no stripes on any part of the body; the only shad-
ing one sees is right after the fish have eaten a very heavy meal and
their bellies are swollen. Then the area around the bulging belly has a
golden black color . . . possibly the skin showing through the distended
22
scales. The eyes are predominantly gold with black pupils, a very
striking effect against the black background since there is no distrac-
tion from stripes, bones nor discolored gill plates. The fins are a sight
to behold! They are flowing black velvet without pattern . . . the tail,
truly a marvel, resembles other ahgelfish in
shape and size, but the open
latticework is bounded by straight, pure black rays. At the outer edges
a 'lacetail' effect might be noticed.
We have been working on the development of this strain without
any consideration for other inheritable characteristics. We did not care
about the inbred aggressiveness nor the hardiness of the strains. For-
tunately we were lucky and these fish are very hardy; they take all
kinds of live and dried foods and their appetites are fantastic. We have
overcrowding and abuse. We have sub-
tested their ability to withstand
jected them to starvation and neglect (for scientific reasons only, be
assured we have altered the pH and hardness of the water and with
) ;
all this rough treatment they are as good as new. We truly believe that
23
.
When we crossed our fish with the new blacks, we worked out a
jet black, the fish we call the "All-Black Angelfish." This new fish is
much blacker than any of the new fish we acquired from other people
and much blacker than our own original strain. We believe it to be the
ultimate in the perfection of a new variety of aquarium fish.
24
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