You are on page 1of 28

l ^l i^J ^L^L

FOLLOWING PET CARE BOOKLETS. THEY ARE AVAILABLE AT YOUR


T.F.H. PUBLISHES THE
NEIGHBORHOOD PETSHOP. FOR 35$ EACH. IF THEY ARE OUT OF STOCK ON A TITLE YOU
CAN PURCHASE THEM FROM T.F.H. PUBLICATIONS, INC. ,245 CORNELISON AVENUE
,
JERSEY CITY 2, NEW JERSEY. Cash, check or money order must accompany your request.

TROPICAL FISH BOOKS CAT BOOKS DOG BREED BOOKS


Kittens as pets Cocker Spaniels as pets
Tropical Fish Guide
Persian Cats as pets Beagles as pets
Diseases of Tropical Fishes
Siamese Cats as pets Boxers as pets
Saltwater Fishes as pets
Tropical Fish as pets Fox Terriers as pets
Guppies
ANIMAL BOOKS Poodles as pets
as pets
Hamsters as pets Collies as pets
Siamese Fighting Fish
Hamsters (Golden) German Shepherds
Aquarium Plants
Bunnies as pets Chihuahuas as pets
Goldfish as pets
Skunks as pets Dachshunds as pets
Beginning the Aquarium
Frogs & Toads as pets Puppies as pets
Breeding Egglayers
Turtles as pets Miniature Schnauzers
Breeding Livebearers
Mice as pets Boston Terriers as pets
Seahorses
Mollies as pets Monkeys as pets Pekingese as pets
Chameleons Doberman Pinschers
Platies as pets
Snakes as pets Miniature Pinschers
Swordtails as pets
Guinea Pigs as pets Sealyham Terriers
Catfishes
Ants as pets Pointers as pets
Panchax Group
Alligators as pets Welsh Corgies
Angelfish
Ducks as pets Manchester Terriers
Pencilfish
Salamanders & Newts Afghans as pets
Barbs
Gouramis
How to Train your Dog
Dwarf Cichlids BIRD BOOKS Yorkshire Terriers
Parrakeets as pets Weimaraners as pets
Discus
Training your Parrakeet Basset Hounds as pets
Fancy Guppies
The Talking Parakeet Pomerainians as pets
Decorate your Aquarium
Canaries as pets Dalmatians as pets
Tetras Book # 1
Finches as pets Airdales as pets
Tetras Book #2
Parrots as pets Pugs as pets
Cichlids
Danios Mynah Birds as pets

Rasboras Pigeons as pets


Cockatiels as pets
Argentine Pearl fish

THE FOLLOWING BOOKS ARE AVAILABLE FOR $1.00 EACH. ILLUSTRATED IN COLOR
THESE ARE LARGE, INFORMATIVE PAPERBACK BOOKS, AUTHORITATIVELY WRITTEN.
At your petshop or directly from T. F. H. Publications, Inc., 245 Cornelison Ave., Jersey City, N.J.

COCKER SPANIELS BEAGLES POODLES


GERMAN SHEPHERS COLLIES BOXERS
AFGHANS MINIATURE SCHNAUZERS DACHSHUNDS
CHIHUAHUAS DOBERMAN PINSCHERS YORKSHIRE TERRIERS
WEIMARANERS BASSET HOUNDS POMERANIANS
DALMATIANS BOSTON TERRIERS AIRDALES
How to Raise & Train a Pedigreed or Mixed Breed Puppy
How to Housebreak & Train your Dog

GUPPIES BUDGERIGARS CATS


HAMSTERS
iiii'iiii;!!.;::.!:: i:::i: ::
;

fisnisff

Fish Courtesy of Jim Ellis, "^


North Hollywood, Calif.

*
C.F.M. Publications,
ans, Inc.
? f

ShtlMER /WUAPjbtC Vr
By Wilfred Whitern, F.Z.S. with special chap-
ters by Dr. Leonard P. Schultz, Curator of
Fishes, Smithsonian Institution, Washington,
D.C. and Mr. & Mrs. Fred Ludwig, Detroit,
Michigan pioneer breeders of the All-black
and Lacetail Angelfish.

Published by T.F.H. Publications, T.F.H. Building, 245 Cornelison Avenue, Jersey


Inc.,

City 2, N. J., U. S. A. Distributed in England by T.F.H. Publications (London) Ltd., 34,


Nutley Lane, Reigate, Surrey. In Canada by Canadian Aquaria Supply Co. Ltd., 1125
Talbot St., St. Thomas, Ontario. In Australia by Exotic Aquarium & Pet Supplies Pty.
Ltd., 248 High Street, Northcote, Melbourne.
Pterophyllum scatare (Cuv. et Val.)
IDENTIFYING YOUR ANGELFISHES
by Dr. Leonard P. Schultz
Curator of Fishes, United States National Museum

On various occasions I have been asked how to distinguish be-


tween the three kinds of angelfishes currently found in the books on
fishes. To the most recent inquiry by Herbert R. Axelrod, I answered,

"If you will supply me with a hundred specimens of angelfishes that


contain both kinds used in home aquaria I will try to answer your
question on a scientific basis." Shortly I received (more than I asked
for) 150 of these beauties, but among this nice big lot there were but
six ofone kind, the remainder were of the other species.
Soon I began to count and count, measure and measure, and
compare the variable color patterns. After I was familiar with all
of the 200 examples in the National Collections I then began to read
about them in the literature to learn what others thought. I finally
concluded that no dependence could be placed on the proportional
measurements such as the number of times the greatest depth of
body is contained in the length, eye in head, or head in length.
These characters varied and overlaped too much at the various sizes
to make it possible to identify individual specimens.
The famed German aquarist Dr. Ernst Ahl published and figured
in 1928 in the Zoologischer Anzeiger a new species of angelfish Ptero-
phyllum, eimekei. He based this on but 5 examples from the mouth
of the Rio Negro in the Amazon. Ever since that time aquarists have
been trying to find out if they had P. scalare or P. eimekei in their
tanks.
Aquarium books arc all very indefinite on the matter and one
must conclude that the authors of these books had as much trouble as
tlieother aquarists in recognizing the two species. I, too, have won-
dered just what I had but was never sure of myself. However, Mr.
Axelrod's recent letter stimulated me to work on the problem, so I
began studying all the angelfishes preserved in the United States
National Museum.
I pondered on the conclusions of the late Dr. C. Tate Regan,

famous ichthyologist of the British Museum and those of Dr. Pelle-


grin of the National Museum of Natural History in Paris. Had these
and earlier authors recorded their counts of fin rays and scales in a
tabular form I would have been able to use their data more fully,
but in those days statistical methods were not applied to ichthyology.
They did not even state how they made their counts of the
number of scales. However, in reading the works of Pellegrin, Regan,
Pterophjllum. Line C: where to count the "vertical" scale rows.

Counts recorded for species of the angelfish, Pterophyllum


Number of fin rays: Spines represented bv Roman numerals; soft rays by Arabic numbers.

Species
P. altutn*
P. alt urn \

P. sealant X
P. scalar e\
P. eimekei)
P. eimekeii

Species
P. a/«i/?»°

P. altum\
P. scalare\
P. scalar e\
P. eimekei\
P. eimekei\
and Ahl, have found that they may have made scale counts in two
I
ways. WhenI counted the oblique scale rows from
the upper edge
of the opercular openings (at the
rear of the head) in a straight
line to the midbase of the caudal
fin along the lower side of the
peduncular lateral line, I invariably got a count of 31
to 35. Now
when I counted the oblique scale
rows from the rear of the head
(on the same examples) above the lateral lines, my
results were from
44 to 47. It followed then, in comparing the statements by these
authors that they had confused and mixed both
kinds of scale-row
counts.
For example, Pellegrin in his original 1903 description of Ptero-
phyllum ahum gives the scales along the back as 47, and those along
the sides from 31 to 34. Regan in 1905 for P. ahum
based on two of
Pellegrin's specimens gives the number on the back as 55
of scales
and those on the midsides as 41 to 47. Dr.
Ahl in 1928 repeated
Regan's counts for P. ahum. Obviously someone was wrong.
If the reader will examine the table
which gives my counts he
will observe that 3 species of Pterophyllum actually do exist. This
agrees with Dr. Ahl's conclusions when he described P.
eimekei but
for different reasons. To distinguish all three kinds
is not a simple
matter.
An examination of the table indicates that P. ahum always may
be distinguished by the high number of soft dorsal rays, about
28
or 29. This figure does not overlap with the other two species.
There-
fore, we may identify ahum by counting only the soft
dorsal fin rays.
P. ahum does not appear to have been used as an
aquarium fish.
The next question to answer is which of the other two species
represented by my counts should be assigned the name P. eimekei?
All we have to use in making this decision are the counts
and the
figure presented by Dr. Ahl in 1928. I have represented
Dr., Ahl's
counts by means of an "X" in the table. It may be observed
that
Ahl's data for eimekei agrees beautifully with the counts made
by me
on the most abundantly available form of angelfish to aquarists. I
agree that eimekei is a valid species.
I do not agree with Dr. Ahl's understanding of P. scalare. The
wide range and distribution of his counts indicates that he had a
mixture of both eimekei and scalare.
There are two characters that help to distinguish eimekei and
scalare among the specimens in the National Collections. These char-
acters involve the counting with very great care and accuracy
the
number of oblique scale rows from the upper edge of the opercular
opening to the base of the caudal fin in a straight line just below the
peduncular lateral line. For eimekei they vary from 28 to 36 and for
scalare from 38 to 40. Probably if I had as many examples of scalare
as I had of eimekei there would be a small amount of overlapping
of the scale counts.
The second character may be up by adding the number of
set
scale rows to the number of soft The two groups of
dorsal rays.
figures thus obtained are separated. Thus by making the counts
indicated, each individual of the two species may be distinguished
with considerable confidence. Since the scales are very small counts
must be made under some magnification.
Perhaps some day, if I am fortunate enough to obtain for study
a larger number of specimens thought to be scalare and ahum, I may
discover other differences to distinguish them. At the moment I
conclude that scalare and eimekei are very closely related. Their
color patterns when preserved
are so much alike that the only certain
way each individual is to laboriously count the scale rows
to identify
and fin rays and then determine how they fit into my table. Probably
only an expert ichthyologist has sufficient training to do this
accurately.
my specimens of P. scalare are much larger
All of they measure (

73 to 85 mm. from snout tip to base of the caudal fin)


than those of
eimekei. None of which is that long. This indicates that eimekei is a
smaller species than scalare when sexually mature.

The Half-blacK Angelfish which is popular in Europe todayl Photo by Timmerman.

7
RANGE AND HABITAT w. l. whitern, f.z.s.

Although there are many areas within South America, chiefly in


Amazon, were these fish might be found,
the tributaries of the mighty
the most abundant source is the Tapajoz River, a tributary of the
Amazon River.
It is in this latter area that there exists another of the many
mysteries of Nature. Although both species inhabit this river, the
actual locale of each species is over two hundred miles apart, and
they have never been known to enter one or the other's territory.
The wonders of nature are also fully emphasized when consider-
ation is given to the shape of the body of these fish and the topo-
graphical environment of the river in which they live.

The north bank of the Tapajoz River is of rock formation


devoid of any aquatic plants. The south side of the river, however,
is much different, having a great abundance of an aquatic cane-like

plant. The centre of the river is chiefly broken rock and mud that
is practically barren of plants. The Angelfish being of very timid and
highly nervous nature live within the dense vegetation on the south
side of the river. They seldom venture out into mid-stream and never
inhabit the north side.
Another feature that emphasizes Nature's effort to protect the
weaker members of its Kingdom is, that within this area there can
always be found another member of the Cichlid family. This is the
Cichlasoma festivum, which grows to much larger proportions. It is
a well established fact that the Angelfish will await a school of these
larger fish to pass, whether they are going up or down stream, and
then tag along behind using the C. festivum as a protective guard
against larger fish. It is also well kown that wherever you may dis-
cover the Angelfish you will also find the C. festivum.

AQUARIUM AND WATER REQUIREMENTS


Too often, failure to observe elementary requirements of indi-
vidual species of fish leads to disappointment and disaster. In many
instances, the aquarium size is totally inadequate for Angelfish. This
not only has a direct influence in regard to the growth of these fish,
but usually does not permit the desirable swimming room that is
essential to the health of fish of this size. The golden rule — "One
inch of one gallon of water" should be strictly adhered to.
fish to

Fish will only grow to the size that the water content of the aquarium
into which they are placed will permit. Therefore, the larger the
This is what happens when fish are overcrowded. Note the short anal and dorsal fins.

Compare these with the normal babies of a month old. Photo by Timmerman.

aquarium, the more sturdy and larger the fish will grow. Angelfish
may be kept in an average size 5 gallon aquarium, but for the best
results in relation to growth and the possibility of successful spawn-
ing, a twenty-five gallon capacity aquarium is the minimum size

recommended.
From experiments that I have undertaken over several years
I have found that Angelfish thrive much better if the aquarium has
a greater depth than that of the normal stock aquarium. The. most
satisfactory results were attained in an aquarium 30 inches long, 20
inches high and 20 inches wide, in which there was one mated pair of
Angelfish. This size of an aquarium, apart from its greater eye appeal,
permits a much better planting arrangement, including the use of a
broad leaf Amazon Sword plant (Echinodorus) and the broad leaf
Cryptocoryne plants (Cryptocoryne griff ithi). The sword plant should
be placed in the centre of the aquarium, and a very dense planting of
the Cryptocorynes along the back and in the back corners. This plant-
ing arrangement permits a very large swimming area as well as
affording plenty of plants in which timid fish can hide.
One month old normal fry. Photo by Timmerman.

The water conditions for normal purposes, that is, where these
fish are in a purely display aquarium or included in a community
aquarium, should be the same pH and DH
as required for many
other varieties. It should be slightly acid — about pH 6.8 — and the
degree of hardness should not exceed 10 to 12 degrees. However,
when spawning is to be undertaken, then greater care must be given

to this very important matter, but this is explained more fully under
the heading — preparing the spawning aquarium.

SEXING THE ANGELFISH


There are many theories and beliefs, held by some experts, that
there are visual signs of body structure and color differences that can
determine the sex of an Angelfish. I do not dispute that such differ-
ences do exist.However, these differences cannot easily be prede-
termined. It isonly after an actual spawning has taken place that
these differences can be definitely established. Of course, there is one
method that can be undertaken, and that is, the use of an X-ray. But

for the average hobbyist this is not practical simply because X-ray
equipment is not readily available, particularly within the home.

10
However, as a guide and to assist the hobbyist in substantiating
these differences once a spawning has taken place, these visual differ-
ences of sex shown on Plate 1 are fully described as follows:
a. The first black vertical stripe that passes through the eye,
appears to be straighter in the male than in the female, in
the latter the stripe has a definite curve upwards towards the
commencement of the dorsal fin.
b. The spines at the base of the forward commencement of the
dorsal fin are more jagged and irregular in the male than
the female.
c. The space between the extended ventral fins (often referred
to as the "feelers") and the forward commencement of the
anal fin is shorter in length in the male and less curved in
the female.
d. The tube that emerges from the vent, just prior to spawning,
is shaped differently. In the male it appears to be pointed and
is carried at a slightly forward angle, whereas in the female,
it appears to be blunt and carried at a slight angle towards
the rear.
e. The lower jaw of the male slightly overlaps the upper jaw
which is the reverse in the female, that is, the upper jaw
appears to overlap the lower jaw.

OBTAINING BREEDING STOCK


For those hobbyists who would like to spawn these fish, there
are two possible methods which can be undertaken. The first is to
purchase, direct from a reliable tropical fish dealer, a guaranteed
mated pair. This is the easiest method.
The second is to purchase twenty or thirty young Angelfish
when they are about the size of a fifty cent piece. Great care should
be given to select those with the most prominent and even vertical
black markings, and larger finnage. This method undoubtedly gives
a greater amount of satisfaction from the viewpoint that the hobbyist
is given an opportunity for a closer study of the fish as they grow

and the thrill of awaiting the probable segregation into one or more
mated pairs as they mature.
At this size, the fish purchased can be presumed to be around
four months old. The minimum size of the aquarium should be of
fifty gallons capacity and equipped with aeration and Alteration.

It requires a period of approximately eight months to bring

these fish to a size of five to six inches in body depth. This size does
not include the dorsal or anal fins. This requires careful and nutri-
tious foods being given. These should include dry foods of high protein
value together with alternate feedings of such live foods as Daphnia,
brine shrimp, white worms and small garden worms (finely chopped).
I have found that daily feeding of scraped frozen chicken liver or
lean steak definitely stimulates a sturdy growth.
When these fish are about one year old, it is then time to keep
daily observation for mated pairs. When it is noticed that two par-
ticular fish stay together in one area of the aquarium, and they have
been together for at least six hours and chase all other fish away,

12
then safe to presume that they are a mated pair. It is not possible
it is

at this time to detect which is male or female, but this will be easily
observed once an actual spawning has taken place.
However, the most intricate part of the operation is yet to come,
that is, the removal of the two fish, This must be accomplished in
one operation, otherwise should you break them up, it is well known
that, once broken, a mated pair will rarely re-mate. This is another
unexplainable trait of the Angelfish.
have found that the most simple approach to the matter of
I
removing mated pairs is to turn off the lights above the aquarium in
which the fish are. There is less likelihood of causing them to break
apart to different areas within the aquarium simply because they do
not see the net being placed in the aquarium. There is usually suffi-
cient light from the room itself that permits you to see what you are
doing. Use a large net and try to capture both fish at the same time.

PREPARING THE SPAWNING AQUARIUM


As is often the case, these fish will spawn or attempt to spawn
in a community aquarium. This presents a problem, whether or not
to remove all the other species and leave the spawning pair in that
aquarium, or to remove the spawning pair to another aquarium.
Possibly the latter of the two probable suggestions is the best pro-
cedure, but this means that another aquarium must be prepared.
This preparation is very important if success is to be achieved.
However, casual observation quickly denotes that a pair of
Angelfish are ready to spawn. This is indicated when the pair com-
mence to vigorously clean the leaves of the plants, and this early
indication allows for plenty of time to prepare another aquarium. The
aquarium should be as large as possible, the minimum size should
be around 25 gallons capacity. The interior of this aquarium should
be thoroughly sterilized and the sand boiled and washed. The plants
should also be thoroughly washed, and if time permits, it is better
to sterilize these by using the Alum Method, now described.
Two enamel containers around two gallons capacity (never use
galvanized iron containers) should be filled with boiled water which
is allowed to cool. To the water in one container, add one
teaspoonful
of powdered alum to each quart of water. Place all the plants to be
used in the spawning aquarium into this solution for a maximum
period of five minutes, remove after this time and thoroughly rinse
in the water in the other container. Once the water has been placed
into the spawning aquarium it should be carefully checked in regard
to the pH and Dh. The pH should not be more than 6.8, that is,

13
slightly acid. The Dh should be around 6 degrees of hardness.
It is important that, once the spawning pair have been placed
into the freshly set-up aquarium that the temperature should be
gradually increased to around 86 degrees Fahrenheit. This temper-
ature should be maintained until the young fry are at least four
weeks old as well as during the incubation period of the eggs.
There are some species of tropical fish that have preference for
certain times during the day to spawn, that is, some prefer the very
early morning hours, others around mid-afternoon. This aspect can-
not be applied to the Angelfish. They will spawn at any time during
the day or early evening. I have had experiences where the actual
spawning has taken place when the aquarium has been in complete
darkness. Usually the spawning time takes place about two hours
after the cleaning process has been finished.

First the pair will clean off the appointed spawning site.

Before the actual spawning is commenced the female will make


one or two trial runs up the leaf, rock or glass of the aquarium. In
the meantime the male will stay away from this area until the
actual spawning is started.

14
Then the female lays her eggs and the male follows fertilizing them.

Here is a closeup shot of the male fertilizing the eggs.

15
A closeup of the developing eggs. The eggs are held into the spawning site by a
fine, sticky string which comes from the head of the newly hatched fry. Photo by
Timmerman.

However, once the spawning is started, the female will lay the
eggs at the selected spot, always commencing at the bottom and
going in an upwards motion. The male follows immediately behind
and fertilizes the eggs as they are laid by the female.
The spawning usually takes between two to three hours. This is
more or less governed by the number of eggs laid. Age of the spawn-
ing pair will also have some bearing upon the number of eggs laid,
if very young, approximately two hundred to three hundred
eggs will
be the maximum whereas a more mature pair will lay anywhere
from eight hundred to fourteen hundred eggs.
Once the spawning has been completed, the spawning pair will
take turns fanning the eggs with their pectoral fins. The incubation
period is usually around five days.

Amajor problem now presents itself, that is, whether to leave the
pair with their spawning, remove them or remove the actual spawning.
This is a very difficult decision to make, especially if it is, the
first spawning. There has been no indication whether or not the

spawning pair are going to be compatible parents.


However, whatever may be your decision, it is important when
separating the eggs from the breeders, that the eggs be properly
aerated. An aerating stone should be placed in such a position that
the stream of air bubbles causes the water around the spawning to
be continually moving.
If the spawning is on a leaf, then the aerating stone should be
positioned directly beneath the leaf, if on a rock or one of the

glasses of the aquarium, then the aerating stone should be positioned


to ensure a movement of water over the eggs. This acts as a substitute
for the movement of the water as caused by the fanning process by
the pectoral fins of the pair.

16
It should be pointed out at this time that there is a well founded
theory that the Angelfish have an instinct that they know whether
or not the spawning will produce a sturdy and healthy batch of
young fry. Because of this, they will often, after a period of two
days, devour the whole of spawning. This can happen to several
subsequent spawnings before the pair will permit one to hatch.
Personally, I believe there is a certain amount of established

fact in relation to this instinct. From an actual experimental test


the following were the results.
A young mated pair spawned twice within a matter of three
weeks, each time devouring the eggs within forty-eight hours. Upon
the third spawning taking place I removed the leaf to another
aquarium. This aquarium contained water from the original spawn-
ing aquarium. Many of the eggs became fungused, but about 60
percent hatched out. Although given a carefully prepared diet, as
these young fry grew it was found that they were of exceedingly
poor color and very unevenly marked. None of the young fry reached
an age of six months
However, the original pair continued to spawn every two weeks,
and they devoured spawnings number four, five and six. The seventh
spawning they permitted to hatch.
The young fry developed quickly, using the same carefully
prepared diet, they not only grew quickly, but had excellent color-
ation, evenly marked with the vertical black stripes that were very
crisp and dense. This batch of young fry ultimately grew into a
fine batch of Angelfish. The eventual result was that over thirty
mated pairs developed from this batch.
Another important feature of these fish is, that during the
period of bringing the young fry to maturity, especially before the
time they actually begin to develop the "Angelfish shape", it might
appear that the parents are devouring their family. This is not so.
What happening is that they are removing harmful
actually is

bacteria from the young fry's bodies by the simple process of


washing them in their mouths.
Too often, when this process is observed for the first time, the
hobbyist, believing that the young fry are being devoured, will
immediately get a net and try to remove the young fry. More times
than not, this is a fatal mistake, because as soon as the breeders see
the net they will think that there is danger to their family
and
earnest.
they will then commence to devour their family in real
Remember, if the spawning pair have given sufficient care to

the eggs to the point that they have hatched, and the young fry

17
have become free swimming, very little fear should
be entertained
that the parents will devour them. Usually
after reaching this stage
it can be more or less
assured that the parents will raise their
family to full maturity.
There is not a more beautiful sight than an aquarium
containing
the parents and a hundred or so young
Angels, and provided the
spawning aquarium is large enough, then there
is no reason why
the young fry cannot be left with the
parents until they are at least
three months old unless the parents breed
again in the meantime.

When Angelfish ore frightened their stripes pole. The fish


on the bottom is not
ofroid, wh.le the fish above is frightened.
Photo by Timmerman.

FEEDING
After the fry hatch from the eggs, nature itself
supplies the
food requirements for their first few days of life.
Attached to the
young fish, in the region below the lower jaw and the
commence-
ment of the anal fin there can be easily seen what
appears to be
a small bladder.

18
This is the yolk sac containing highly concentrated nutriment
and until this entirely disappears it is not necessary to supply any
other type of foods. During this time the young are usually attached
by a sticky thread to the spawning site.
After the disappearance of the yolk sac however, the initial
foods to be supplied must be given careful consideration. The general
practice is to give infusoria.
Infusoria is easily cultured, and there are many methods of
doing this; the usual method is to use "Infusoria tablets" purchased
from the local dealer.
There is always the danger of fouling the water when using
infusoria, caused by the fact that it is colorless and there is no
visual indication that it is being ingested by the young fry. An
overdose of infusoria can easily be recognized by its foul odor and
cloudy appearance.
Infusoria feeding should be given for a period of at least five
days. After this time, additional nutriment can be offered in the
form of the yolk of a hard boiled egg. This must be squeezed
through a piece of very fine linen, and again, care must be taken
not to give too much at one time.
Once the young fry have reached an age of approximately five
weeks they should be given frequent feedings of newly hatched
brine shrimp. As a supplement to this, finely scraped frozen chicken
liver or lean steak may be given.
When the fry have reached an age of ten weeks, finely chopped
white worms can be given, but not more than twice a week. Too
frequent feedings of white worms, because of their laxative qualities,
can cause harm that in some instances can prove fatal. This laxative
quality in white worms has a very undesirable effect upon the diges-
tive organs.
After the young fry have reached an age of three months it is

then safe to give feedings of any of the standard dry foods, but
this should be augmented occasionally with some other types of
live foods, if available.
According to the and number of young fry, it is essential
size
that the batch be divided up and placed into other aquaria. Remem-
ber, fish will only continue to grow according to the water content
in which they are expected to live. Overcrowding, or having the
fish in too small an aquarium can only result in poorly developed
and runted fish.
In conclusion, the hobbyist should remember that, patience and
care is vitally necessary if success is to be achieved. Haphazard
methods and indifference can only result in failure.

19
THE ALL BLACK ANGELFISH
by Julianna and Fred Ludwig

The first spawning of All-blacks accomplished by the Ludwig's of Detroit! Only a few
people have successfully bred an All-black to an All-black. Usually an All-black is
crossed with a Lacetail. The Ludwig's breed All-blacks to each other. Dr. Leonard P.
Schultz identified the All-blacks that the Ludwig's are breeding as a variety of the
P. eimeckei.

20
This community aquarium of All-black and lacetail Angelfish was photographed in
the aquarium of the Ludwig's of Detroit. They pioneered the All-black Angelfish and
were the first to produce 100% All-blacks.

The title of this article utilizes the term "All Black" in the adjec-
tive form only! It is neither our intention nor our privilege to attach a
name to this beautiful angelfish, a product of our untiring efforts down
through the years. Several articles (see TFH, April, 19541 have ap-
peared from time to time mentioning the legendary black angelfish in
very vague terms; nothing has been mentioned of a pure black fish. It
is our desire, as fanciers and admirers of truly fine aquarium fishes, to

give a thorough and honest evaluation of our achievements and experi-


ences in the production of this lovely new aquarium variety. At this
writing we have arrived at the generation from which we will select our
future breeding stock. We have reason to believe that THIS IS IT! in
respect to a true strain. These fish are on display in our store (in De-
troit) for any and all to see. We have no secrets and nothing to hide.
It is fairly difficult for us to describe our all black angelfish since
we we will tell you how they appear to
are not trained fish scientists, but
us, the rest we leave to anyone who cares to visit and see for themselves
. . . maybe our accompanying photographs will help those that are
skeptical.

21
i (•(>/ UlJflUllU III I liflLr\-C'l fXlll I hoto Credit: Aquaphoto by Oer»e vvoijshei'

First, our all black angelfish are ALL BLACK. Nowhere is there
any silver; there are no stripes on any part of the body; the only shad-
ing one sees is right after the fish have eaten a very heavy meal and
their bellies are swollen. Then the area around the bulging belly has a
golden black color . . . possibly the skin showing through the distended

22
scales. The eyes are predominantly gold with black pupils, a very
striking effect against the black background since there is no distrac-
tion from stripes, bones nor discolored gill plates. The fins are a sight
to behold! They are flowing black velvet without pattern . . . the tail,
truly a marvel, resembles other ahgelfish in
shape and size, but the open
latticework is bounded by straight, pure black rays. At the outer edges
a 'lacetail' effect might be noticed.
We have been working on the development of this strain without
any consideration for other inheritable characteristics. We did not care
about the inbred aggressiveness nor the hardiness of the strains. For-
tunately we were lucky and these fish are very hardy; they take all
kinds of live and dried foods and their appetites are fantastic. We have
overcrowding and abuse. We have sub-
tested their ability to withstand
jected them to starvation and neglect (for scientific reasons only, be
assured we have altered the pH and hardness of the water and with
) ;

all this rough treatment they are as good as new. We truly believe that

this strain is perfect in all details.


As far as growth is concerned they surpass the normal varieties by
almost doubling their size every week for three months. If given plenty
of room they will keep right on growing to enormous proportions. Their
temperament can be described as normal, though they are a bit more
aggressive, greedy and capricious than the normal variety. They are
pugnacious too, constantly cavorting about, exploring every movement
in or near their aquarium. They are afraid of nothing except a net . . .

and I think all fishes are afraid of a net.


In photographing these fish we made no attempt to confine them
to any limited space; they cooperated by posing in their best manner,
but it sure was difficult getting a group of them to "stand still" for even
a second they were just too busy.
. . .

Down through the years we have specialized in breeding cichlids.


Angelfish were in the greatest demand at all times so we specialized in
these. Now and then we would produce a sport which would stimulate
our imagination to new kinds of angelfish. When the black one came
along we accepted the challenge and our battle began. We babied the
blackish fish and pampered them we emerged with a group
until finally
of all different types of angelfish.
Only one was black and it took almost
a year of waiting and searching until we eventually produced another
like it. Finally after waiting for this fish to mature, and hoping and
praying that the other would hold on (and that one would be a male
and the other a female ), we were blessed with a spawning! Let us say
at this point that if the experiment ended here we would have been
perfectly content. Our struggle from this point on has been the produc-

23
.

commercial purposes. To the exclusion of all


tion of black angelfish for
commercial and thoughts we completely lost ourselves
possibilities
when fixed black pigment appeared where it normally would not appear
on an angelfish. As the fish grew and we inbred generation after gen-
eration (selecting the blackest fish at all times), the angelfish grew
darker and darker. In the beginning not all the offspring were dark, but
as we inbred more and more were dark until this final spawning when
ALL THE BABIES WERE BLACK! It was about thistime that we
introduced black angelfish from another breeder. To this date we can-
not locate the prime source of these other fish, but maybe someday we
will (Editor's note: Herb Wolff of Tampa, Florida and Beldt's Aquar-
ium in Robertson, Mo., have reported that they are producing all black
angelfish )

When we crossed our fish with the new blacks, we worked out a
jet black, the fish we call the "All-Black Angelfish." This new fish is
much blacker than any of the new fish we acquired from other people
and much blacker than our own original strain. We believe it to be the
ultimate in the perfection of a new variety of aquarium fish.

24
.jRQHCAtnsH
SUBSCRIPTION OFFER
BRINGS THIS MAGAZINE TO YOU AT LOWEST COST

The only tropical fish magazine containing

color photographs. Largest circulation in the

world. Regular articles from international

reporters guarantees up to the minute coverage

on every aspect of new and important tropical

aquarium fishes. Advertisements of the best

and most dependable equipment and

r «o
WCAi accessories. Designed and written for the

beginner. Completely and thoroughly illustrated.


-NK
Don't wait . . . send in the form below NOW!

PLEASE PRINT AND DETACH

TROPICAL FISH HOBBYIST


fROV\
CALE
245 CORNELISON AVENUE JERSEY CITY' 2, N. J.

Gentlemen:

Enclosed please find check, money order or cash


for:
X _«•

Sample copy - 35tf

12 issues of Tropical Fish Hobbyist, $3.25

24 issues of Tropical Fish Hobbyist, $6.25


io^c(KV cphoeq
t

60 issues of Tropical Fish Hobbyist, $13.00

•f^t
GET ACQUAINTED

The ENCYCLOPEDIA OF TROPICAL FISHES by Axelrod and Vorderwinkler


is the largest,
most complete book on aquarium fishes ever published in any
language. It has more than 760 pages with about 600 monochrome photographs
and 300 color photographs. Every phase of the aquarium hobby is completely
covered and there is special emphasis on how to breed aquarium fishes. Chap-
ters on Commercial Breeding, Aquarium Plants, How to Feed your Fishes,
Diseases, Snails and Scavengers, plus many others, covers points never before
considered by other books. More ENCYCLOPEDIAS have been sold since its
publication than any other book on tropical fishes. Due to the large printings
its cost is amazingly low only $7.95 at your pets hop or bookstore.

You might also like