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Summary
THINGS TO KNOW
THINGS TO SEE
8 Churches
12 Buildings and monuments
15 Museums
17 Places and charm
THINGS TO TRY
THINGS TO EXPERIENCE
22 Events
25 La Dolce Vita
ITINERARIES
26 An intense weekend
28 Murano, Burano and Torcello: tours round
the Lagoon islands
30 The Brenta Riviera 32
The new inhabitants built several rafts of Chioggia (1380). Venice then realized that
various sizes, supported by strong wooden it was necessary for the city to have bases
poles that were fixed to the underside. The on the mainland too and began to expand
rafts were connected to each other with towards Padua, Vicenza, Verona, Brescia and
wooden walkways and houses, buildings and Bergamo. Venice’s prestige grew at the same
monuments were then built on them. rate as the increase in the land it controlled
When Venice had a big enough population and was thus given the name of Serenissima.
to begin to deserve the title of city, it was However, danger was round the corner: the
then annexed to the Byzantine Empire, while Serenissima was so busy expanding on the
maintaining its own independence. In 697, mainland that it did not realize that the
Venice elected its first Doge, giving life to Turks’ power was expanding rapidly, to the
a new government: the Dogado (Maritime point where they took over Constantinople
Empire). However, the event that finally (Byzantium) and some cities on the Greek
made Venice’s name in the world took place and Albanian coastlines.
in 828, when two enterprising Venetian
merchants stole the Apostle Mark’s body from The League of Cambrai was founded in 1508:
Alessandria in Egypt, and secretly transported this was a sort of coalition against Venice
it to Venice. A huge church, consecrated in which most of the European powers joined.
1094, was built to house the remains of the Venice managed to maintain some of its land
Saint, who then became the patron saint of after seven years of war, but it lost its control
Venice: Palazzo Ducale the city: the Basilica of San Marco. over the Mediterranean.
In the 17th century, the Serenissima had to
“Without streets and vehicles, the uproar Since the very beginning, Venice showed give up Crete, one of its historical lands and
of wheels, the brutality of horses, and strong inclinations towards trade. This the whole of the Peloponnesus area to the
with its little winding ways where people increased to the point that at the end of the Turkish Empire. In the period that followed,
crowd together, where voices sound as in 11th century, the city set up close trading Venice’s political power was seriously
the corridors of a house where the human connections with Byzantium. This was the damaged but there was a considerable
step circulates as if it skirted the angles start of the Republic of Venice, which was increase of the arts and literature in the city,
of furniture and shoes never wear out, finally consecrated in 1202 through the which gave rise to the creation of works of art
the place has the character of an immense 4th crusade that saw the conquering of by Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Canova and to
collective apartment, in which Piazza San Byzantium and then the islands in the Aegean theatre plays by Carlo Goldoni.
Marco is the most adorned corner”. and Ionian Seas. The eastern city was sacked
Henry James, The Aspern Papers and the booty was taken to Venice, where it In 1797, Napoleone Bonaparte conquered
was used to decorate churches and palaces. Venice, and sacked the whole area, just as
The first human settlements on the Venice The four bronze horses that still adorn the he did in the rest of the country. A short while
Lagoon islands date back to the 5th and main facade of the Basilica of San Marco were later the Emperor handed over the city to
6th centuries, when the inhabitants from also part of that booty. Austria, a ruler that was never accepted by
the mainland came to this semi-swamp After the 4th crusade, Venice gained a strong the Venetians: in 1848, the Austrians were
area to escape the barbaric invasions that political role due to the fact that it now run out of the city by a group led by Daniele
followed the fall of the Roman Empire. The controlled a large part of the Mediterranean Manin, and the second Republic of Venice
populations coming from mainland Venice and it also increased its military power and was proclaimed. This new republic did not
settled in the lagoon, fighting as hard as they its trading. last for long, however, as Venice was annexed
could to survive: little by little this group of The city’s historical rivalry with Genoa to the new Kingdom of Italy in 1866.
pieces of land surrounded by water took on exploded under the form of four wars that
the semblance of a real town, a town that were fought one after the other until a truce
was so unique and special that it would was finally agreed at the end of 1381, when
become the only one of its kind in the world. Venice beat Genoa in the famous Battle of
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THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO KNOW 5 6 THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO KNOW
Churches
pm); from the train station to San Simeone of the church interior was the architect
and Giuda and vice versa (until 1 pm). Giovanni Grassi. The church has a central
aisle, a vaulted ceiling and three chapels on
Getting around the city on foot is however the each side.
most efficient and charming way of getting to
know the city. The numbers of the streets in
Venice starts with 1 in each Sestiere and goes San Polo
upwards progressively.
Here is a short glossary that will help you Church of San Giacometto
to understand the indications written on the Popular tradition considers the church of San
street signs that you will find in the city: Giacometto to be the oldest church in Venice.
Calle: the typical pedestrian street that can It was built thanks to the belief and talent
streta (narrow), wide or longa (lunga); of a carpenter from Crete around the 5th
Campo: an open space that is known as a century, just when the first people settled on
square in other towns. In Venice, however, this group of islands.
there is only 1 square: San Marco; The church is very small but very pretty
Campiello: a small square where there is no and charming. There is a large clock on the
church; façade, built in 1410.
Fondamenta: a pedestrian path that runs
alongside the canals and that can be of Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
various sizes; Venice: Basilica della Salute This large Gothic church, Santa Maria Gloriosa
Ruga: a variation of the French word “rue”, a dei Frari is one of the most imposing religious
busy road with a lot of houses and shops; All the best churches in Venice, divided into buildings in Venice.
Rio: a small internal canal. When the word city areas. Including the Basilica of San Marco It was built by the minor monks of the
“Rio” is followed by the word “terà” (filled in) and the Church della Salute…. Franciscan order, known as Frari, thanks to a
it means that this is a road; donation from the Doge Jacopo Tiepolo. The
Salizada: the largest roads, the first to have Santa Croce first version of the church was completed in
been asphalted; 1338, and was much smaller than the current
Sotoportego: this is a dialect term for the Church of San Simeon Piccolo one.
inside of a portico. This imposing church is located opposite the Other donations from important Venetian
Santa Lucia train station. families provided for the church to be
The Church of San Simeon Piccolo was built expanded and decorated. However, this
at the beginning of the 18th century and was church was demolished at the beginning of
intended to be a copy of the Pantheon in the 15th century to build a new one, using a
Rome; this is why it has a large green dome, enormous amount of bricks dotted with white
with the statue of San Salvatore on the top. marble decorations.
This building has been used as an auditorium The severe, imposing façade is built in a late
for concerts for some time now. Gothic style and is divided into three parts
with Venetian-Byzantine capital-topped
Church of Santo Stae pillars.
The Church of San Stae was built on the wishes The interior is just as magnificent: the
of the Doge Alvise Mocenigo around 1709. church is built on a Latin cross pattern, with
Its façade is full of marble decorations a central aisle and side aisles, divided by
and inside there are several paintings. twelve massive pillars. There are many works
The sculptors involved in producing these of art by important painters such as Tiziano,
decorations were Tarsia, Torretto, Baratta Palma il Giovane and Piazzetta in the church.
and Groppelli. The designer and the builder The ancient convent and oratory house the
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city’s archives: there are 15 million volumes period 1916 to 1921, using funds provided the building work himself. The façade was in the city. Its main façade is unique. It has
that contain the Serenissima’s entire history. by the government and by Count Venier. built at a later date (1568-1577) following a five arched doorways, a long terrace that
The Baroque church tower was built in 1668 design by Andrea Palladio. Two bronze statues are home to four bronze horses that came
and was designed by Francesco Zucconi. The by Tiziano Aspetti are in the niches in the from the booty from the 4th crusade of the
façade of the church that faces the canal was façade: on the left there is a statue of Moses infidels. Its bas-relief work is in Byzantine
Dorsoduro built using money donated by the Cappello and on the right there is a statue of San Paolo. style. The interior is just as sumptuous as
family, in honor of Captain Vincenzo Cappello, The Interior of San Francesco della Vigna is the outside. The marble floor has a striking
Basilica della Salute who defeated the Turks. The church’s interior built on a Latin cross pattern, with a central geometric pattern and there are splendid
On October 22nd 1630, during the terrible was decorated by Mauro Coducci and is built aisle, side chapels, a higher altar and a deep mosaics on the walls that tell stories from the
plague that struck Venice, the Doge Nicolò according to the Latin cross pattern over the choir. The church contains works by Palma il New Testament.
Contarini publicly declared that a church previous Greek cross foundations. It has a Giovane, including the “Vergine e il Bambino”
would be built in the name of Health (salute) central aisle and side aisles, a choir, transepts and the “Adorazione della Vergine in Gloria”. San Marco Bell Tower.
as a vow to end the scourge. A year later, with cross vaults and a hemispherical dome. The San Marco Bell Tower was built in the 9th
in 1631, the plague was wiped out and the The church is also home to some wonderful Church of San Giorgio Dei Greci century. It was originally used as a lookout
Basilica della Salute was opened in 1687. paintings by Bartolomeo Vivarini, Palma il The Church of San Giorgio dei Greci was built tower and as a lighthouse. It was rebuilt in
Eleven plans for the church were presented Giovane and Palma il Vecchio. starting from 1539, as soon as the Greeks 1100 and it was then completed in the 16th
and the one designed by Baldassare Longhena obtained permission to build a church and century under the guidance of the architect
was chosen. The design included a huge façade Church of the Santissimi Giovanni and a school from the Republic. The Church of Bon. It was rebuilt in a Renaissance style
that reminds one of the Palladium, with a Paolo San Giorgio dei Greci was completed by while maintaining the original structure. In
wonderful huge door in the center. The façade The Church of the Santissimi Giovanni and Chianantonio and was consecrated in 1561. 1902, the bell tower fell down but fortunately
was lifted with a number of steps to give the Paolo is dedicated to the two Roman brothers The church’s interior is truly magnificent: the there were no tragic consequences. Venice
church an even greater sense of grandeur. who became martyrs in Rome in the 2nd hemispherical dome is worthy of note, with its decided to rebuild it “as it was and where it
The interior is incredibly charming due to the century. In 1234, the order of Dominican center covered in frescoes by G. di Cipro. was” and 10 years later the new bell tower,
severe majesty of its size. It has the central monks began to build this church which was an exact copy of the original, was ready: the
area on an octagonal plan. On the sides, there then finished almost two centuries later. This Church of the Pietà tower is square, built in brick. It is 12 meters
are a corresponding number of arches divided large church is built in religious Gothic style. The church was built in the 15th century wide and 98.6 meters high and is closed on
up by columns. There are a number of works Its façade is built in three parts, with a central according to a design by Giorgio Massari and top with a pyramid-shaped point. On the
of art inside the church too: Pentecost, San rose and two round side openings. The lower was consecrated in 1760. The building is one of top there is a golden angel about 2 meters
Rocco and San Sebastiano, David and Goliath part of the façade is decorated with a series the elegant and striking from the 7th century. high. The bell tower has played an essential
and Cain and Abel by Tiziano; The Marriage of of Gothic arches and two sarcophaguses of There is a wonderful fresco by Tiepolo on the role in the political and social life of the city
Canaan by Tintoretto and Jonah and Samson Marco Michiel and Daniele Marco Bon, on the ceiling of the main entrance: Fortitudine e for centuries. The bells were rung to inform
by Palma il Giovane. right and of the Doge Jacopo Tiepolo and his Pace, one of this greatest masterpieces. The the city’s inhabitants of all the main events
son Lorenzo on the left. The church interior frescoes that adorn the choir ceiling, which organized in Venice. At the foot of the bell
is built on a Latin cross pattern. It is full of make up the Trionfo della Fede, are also tower there were popular wine sellers who
Castello Doges’ and other important figures’ funeral worthy of note. Here Tiepolo has excelled moved around to stay under the bell tower’s
monuments and also contains works of art by himself, painting the Glory of Paradiso. shade depending on the time of day. This
Church of Santa Maria Formosa Lombardo, Piazzetta and other artists from ancient custom is where the term that the
The Church of Santa Maria Formosa is one of the Bellini school. Venetians use for a glass of wine comes from:
the eight churches built in the 7th century San Marco ombra (shade in Italian).
by San Magno, the Bishop of Oderzo. Legend Church of San Francesco della Vigna
goes that the Virgin Mary appeared to him in Tradition says that the name of this pretty Basilica of San Marco
the form of a shapely, matron. The church church comes from the vineyards that were This wonderful church was built in 829 to Cannaregio
was built several times over the centuries: given to the Minor Monks by Marco Ziani, the contain the remains of Saint Mark, the city’s
in 1668 the church was rebuilt after it was son of the Doge Pietro, in 1253. This was the patron saint and was consecrated in 1024. It Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli
damaged during an earthquake and after land that a monastery was built on. In 1534 the has been renovated and decorated several The Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli
several renovations, the last reconstruction church was built in place of the monastery. It time over the centuries and the Basilica is is almost hidden in between two ancient
of the entire building was carried out in the was designed by Sansovino who supervised most certainly the most spectacular church palaces. It was built between 1481 and 1489
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by Lombardo to protect the sacred image of Church of the Madonna dell’Orto the Natural History Museum in Venice since
the “Vergine tra due Santi”, that was first The Church of the Madonna dell’Orto was 1924.
kept in Angelo Amadi’s tabernacle who lived in built around the middle of the 15th century
a courtyard nearby and which is now subject by Fra’ Tiberio da Parma and took the name Ca’ Mocenigo
to pilgrimages and donations. of Madonna dell’Orto due to the ancient The Mocenigo family, from Lombardia,
The church’s façade is completely covered in picture of the Virgin that was found in a settled in Venice a long time ago and became
marble that, so tradition says, comes from garden nearby and which was then taken to one of the symbols of the city itself. One of
the remains of the work on the Basilica of San the church. Building on the church lasted the family branches lived at San Stae, where
Marco. The church’s interior is decorated in for about one century and the result was one of the most striking buildings in Venice
hues of pale pink, silver, grey and white and extremely worthy of note: the façade is still was built: Ca’ Mocenigo, built with a main
there is still the original bas-relief work with the best example today of Venetian Gothic entrance known as a “portego” in the central
mermaids, the God Triton, animals, flowers architecture from the 15th century. The row block. The building now belongs to the City
and other pictures. The “Vergine tra due of niches that were originally galleries that Council and can still be admired in all its
Santi” stands above the church’s altar. ran down the wings of the building, now hold glory with the original eighteenth century
the statues of the twelve Apostles. Inside furnishings and decorations. Palazzo Mocenigo
Church of the Santissimi Apostoli there is a nave with no transept and side also houses the Vittorio Cini collection of
The ancient Church of the Santissimi Apostoli aisles with chapels that are separated by two curtains, hangings and religious fabrics.
stands in Campo dei Santi Apostoli, where rows of Greek marble columns. The picture
it was built in the 9th century. The current of the “Vergine con Bambino” that gives the
building is the result of lots of renovation work church its name hangs alongside the Chapel San Polo
carried out during the 18th century. Legend of San Mauro and is a fine example of art work Venice: Basilica della Salute
has it that the spot on which the Church from the 14th century made from soft stone. The Rialto Bridge
stands was one of the first places in Venice Inside there are frescoes by Palma il Giovane, The historical buildings and most important The Rialto Bridge was originally the only
where refugees from the mainland came to Ponzone and Tintoretto. monuments in Venice, from Palazzo Ducale to permanent connection between the two
live. There are several wonderful frescoes the Rialto Bridge... banks of the Grand Canal. It is said that
inside the church: The “Comunione di Santa in 1172, a bridge made from barges was
Lucia” by Tiepolo and the large panel painted Santa Croce designed, which was then replaced with a
by Francesco Canal that is on the ceiling, bridge with wooden columns a few years
showing the Communion of the Apostles, the Fondaco dei Turchi later. This bridge was destroyed in 1310. In
Celebration of the Eucharist and four ovals to This building was originally built at the 1444, a new wooden bridge was built that was
the side showing the Evangelists. beginning of the 13th century by Giacomo much bigger than the previous one and which
Palmieri, the consul of Pesaro on the Atlantic even had shops on it.
The Jesuits’ Church coast, who fled to Venice where he founded The final stone version of the Rialto Bridge,
The church’s façade is a perfect example of one of the greatest noble families in the city: as we know it today, was built in the period
Baroque style from the beginning of the 18th the Pesaro family. 1588-1591 by Antonio da Ponte. Building the
century. The church is built to a Latin cross In 1621, the Pesaro family rented the palace bridge was difficult due to the instability of
and the columns inside are topped by statues to Ottoman merchants and from then on the the site and its height (8 meters).
of the twelve Apostles created by various palace was known as the Fondaco dei Turchi
sculptors during the 17th and 18th centuries. (the Turks’ Warehouse). The House of Carlo Goldoni
The church also contains frescoes by Palma Later, when trade with the East began to Carlo Goldoni, the famous Venetian
il Giovane, Tiziano and Sansovino. After the decline, the palace was abandoned by the playwright, was born in 1707 at Palazzo
Jesuit Order was suppressed in 1773, the Ottomans and fell into ruin. In 1880, the Centani, located alongside Ponte San Tomà.
convent was used as a public school and then Venice City Council bought the Fondaco The building has a façade with a pointed
as army barracks in 1807. The Church was and renovated it, whilst maintaining the arch that faces the canal and can be seen
handed back to the Jesuits when the Order characteristics of the original buildings, i.e. from the bridge. It has a wonderful courtyard
was reinstated by Pius VII in 1814. its Venetian-Byzantine façade covered in and an open air staircase. A committee of
marble. This building has been the home of citizens bought the house in 1914, following
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THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO SEE 13 14 THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO SEE
an idea by Aldo Ravà who was a famous then changed through several renovations clock is underneath the statues. The clock Venice. The original design of the building
fan of Venetian culture. A center for the that were carried out over the centuries. face is gold and blue enamel and shows the was commissioned by the Priuli-Bon family
preservation of the artists papers was then Substantial changes were made in 1173, time, the lunar phases and the zodiac signs. and was carried out by Baldassare Longhena
created there. The buildings has been the during the rule of the Doge Sebastiano Ziani, Scala Contarini known as “del Bovolo” during the first half of the 17th century.
home of the Institute of Theatrical Studies and the palace was expanded. However, in Near Campo San Bortolo, hidden among a Around 1745, another floor was added to the
(Istituto degli Studi Teatrali) since 1952. The 1340, the building took on a truly grandiose labyrinth of alleyways, there is one of Benice’s building, just as the Rezzonico family, the
theater section of the Correr Museum Library size when the Gothic style wing was built most unusual sites: Scala Contarini, known as new owners of the building, wished. Some
is also housed there. that faces the San Marco bay, where the “del Bovolo”, which was built around the 17th classical elements have been used on the
Carlo Goldoni’s most famous plays, written Greater Council meeting were held. The century. This strange name was given to it due façade, as they were much in fashion at the
and acted in dialect, are: I Rusteghi (1760), portico supported by the large columns and to its strange spiral shape that reminds one of time. They match the rooms and the interior
The Villeggiatura trilogy (1761) and Le Baruffe the upper open gallery that face the bay a snail, which in Venetian dialect is Bovolo. decorating. The large staircase can be
Chiozzotte (1762). are wonderful. The Gothic-style Porta della The staircase winds up Palazzo Contarini reached from the entrance hall on the ground
Carta, the entrance of honor to the palace, façade and is seen as a high cylindrical tower floor: this is one of the most magnificent
Scuola Grande di San Rocco dates back to the 15th century. It was given from where you get a charming view of entrances in the entire city. Ca’ Rezzonico
The Scuola Grande di San Rocco is a majestic this name as the proclamations issued by the Venice’ rooftops. was bought by the English poet Robert
building made from white marble, designed Republic were attached to this door. Browning and then by the Baron Hirschel de
by the architects Bon and Scarpagnino around The rooms inside the palace are full of Minerby, the last private owner. The building
1400. It was declared a School in 1489 by the frescoes depicting the history of the Republic Cannaregio was then acquired by the City Council (1925)
Concilio dei Dieci. The carvings on the façade by Masters such as Tiepolo, Tiziano, Veronese, and was turned into a museum.
are very intricate and recall the typical style Bassano and Palma il Giovane, all kept in Ca’ d’Oro
of the Venetian sculptors from the mid-15th valuable golden wooden frames. Palazzo Ca’ d’Oro, now home of the Franchetti
century. The school played a role of helping Gallery, is one of the main attractions of
the poor and protecting the city’s artistic The “Procuratie” and the Napoleonic wing Venetian Gothic architecture, built at the
assets. When the Marine Republic fell from Piazza San Marco is bordered on the right and beginning of the 15th century on the wishes
power, the School was left to rack and ruin on the left sides by the Procuratie, which of Marini Contarini. The name of Ca’ d’Oro
and most of the holy decorations were stolen. are connected by the Napoleonic Wing. There (The Golden home) comes from the wealth of
The School was reopened for religious services are now several shops under the porticoes, gold leafing that once decorated its façade.
in 1806, thanks to some donations from rich the famous Café Florian and Café Quadri The original project was probably by the
citizens. It once again took on its role to and there are also some luxurious Venetian architect Marci D’Amadio, but the work was
help the poor, in spite of the fact that it did jewelers such as Nardi and Missaglia. Both carried out by Lombard craftsmen and then
not have many financial resources. Works by the Procuratie, the Old and the New one have later by Venetian ones. Ca’ d’Oro changed
Tintoretto, Tiziano, Tiepolo and Giorgione, all galleries over the 50 arches of the ground owner several times and was finally bought
illustrating the bible, can still be seen inside floor portico. The third side of the square, and renovated by the Baron Giorgio Franchetti
the school. the one that face the Basilica, is taken up in the 19th century. He then donated his own
by the Napoleonic Wing. This is a building collection of paintings and this building to the
in Neo-classical style, built on the wishes State in 1916. In 1927, the palace was turned
San Marco of Napoleon in 1807. In order to build a into a museum that now houses several works
ballroom, Napoleon ordered for the ancient of art by Tiziano and Tintoretto and some
Palazzo Ducale Church of San Geminiano to be knocked Gothic and Renaissance furniture.
This exceptional building was the center of down. The Napoleonic Wing now houses the
Venice’s political, social and economic life Correr Museum collection.
right from the beginning. Palazzo Ducale was The Torre dell’Orologio (the Clock Tower) is
also located on the side of the old Procuratie.
Dorsoduro
the private residence of the Doge, but it was
also the home of the Government’s and the There is also the archway that takes you
Ca’ Rezzonico
Courts’ main offices . There is some proof that to the Mercerie. The tower is topped by a
Ca’ Rezzonico is a large building that looks
the original building dates back to the first terrace where there is a large bell and two
down onto the Grand Canal and which is now
half of the 9th century, a building that was bronze statues known as the “Mori”. The
home to the Eighteenth Century Museum in
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Museums
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THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO SEE 17 18 THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO SEE
bisi, the risotto made with peas that the of mask shops. This is another popular craft
Doges ate on San Marco’s day. Pasta dishes item in Venice which are made in terracotta
included spaghetti with clams, spaghetti or in pottery.
with cuttlefish ink, bigoli in sauce (bigoli If you want to take some food home as a
are a sort of long thin pasta with a hole in the souvenir, you can also buy some packages of
middle, with an anchovies and onions sauce), typical Venetian sweets, such as the zaeti
and the popular pasta e fagioli, a tasty winter that can be bought in one of the many cake
pasta and bean soup that is served in both the shops in Venice.
pubs and in the best restaurants in Venice. Those of you who like to do famous name
For main fish courses, we recommend you shopping can instead go on a tour of the
try the scampi alla busara, with tomato and fashion streets, the most important being
chilli pepper, cooked in sauce and cuttlefish the famous Mercerie: this is Venice’s main
cooked in sauce, all accompanied by polenta. shopping street that connects Piazza San
Fried moeche is also very popular; these are Marco to Rialto and where you can find
small crabs fished during the changeover boutiques such as Max Mara, Sergio Rossi,
period (spring and fall) when their shells are Cartier, Krizia, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and many
soft and edible. The most typical main meat others too. Calle XXII Marzo is also well
course is fegato alla veneziana: this is soft worth a visti: here you can find Bulgari, Bruno
veal liver stewed with a lot of onions. Magli, Versace, Damiani.
An entire chapter is needed to talk of the
Venice: fegato alla veneziana castraure, the famous purple artichokes Venice: venetian mask
that are grown on the islands in the lagoon,
Venetian cuisine, especially that in the city, is especially on Sant’Erasmo. They are rare Venice is a true paradise for real shopping
full of traditional dishes that are mostly made and precious, and were recently classified fans: you can find everything in Venice, from
using all types of fish and vegetables, with by Slow Food. They can be eaten in several souvenir shops with Carnival masks and
only one limit: the seasons. Indeed it is hard different ways but only during the harvesting Murano glass items, to the most luxurious
to find dishes on the menus of the restaurants period, which runs from the end of April until high fashion boutiques.
in Venice that have ingredients that are out the second half of June. All these wonderful The glass objects made in the kilns on the
of season. dishes must be accompanied by Venetian island of Murano by master glass blowers
We can begin our journey to discover Venetian wines: Prosecco di Conegliano,Valpolicella, are an old tradition that are made using
food with cicchetti (hors d’oevres) that can Bianco di Custoza and Amarone. Finally, techniques that have been handed down over
be found in all the bacari (pubs) counters, after the meal we recommend you try a the centuries. The many glassworks in Venice
that must be eaten with an ombra (glass) of and Murano offer any type of objects, for all
wine. Typical Venetian cicchetti are: fried sgroppino (lemon sorbet and prosecco) or tastes and wallets; there are Venini lamps and
crab claws, meat balls,half boiler eggs with a small glass of Bassano Grappa. However, ashtrays, vases and small colored animals.
anchovies, fried vegetables, moscardini first you must try some typical Venetian with regards to jewelry, one popular souvenir
(tiny octopus) with polenta, soppressa with sweets such as zaeti, biscuits prepared is la murrina: this is a slim round pendant in
polenta and toasted bread with creamed with polenta flour and raisins and bussolai colored glass with spiral or flower patterns
cod, i.e. cooked in milk and then creamed. buranelli, butter biscuits made in a round that is hung on a gold or silver chain around
However, the best hors d’oeuvre by far are shape that are wonderful when dunked in your neck. As well as the traditional jewelers’
the sardee in saor: these are sardines cooked sweet Vin Santo. shops in Venice there are also some shops that
and marinated with onions and vinegar and sell necklaces made with colored Venetian
flavored with raisins and pine nuts. glass pearls, that can sometimes be bought
For pasta dishes, the Venetian cuisine has a lot loose too so that you can use them to make
of different specialties to offer. The risottos, some personalized jewelry yourself.
made with scampi or cuttlefish, are famous, While walking through the streets and lanes
although the best known recipe is for risi e of Venice, you will also see a large number
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decided to alternate each year, each allowing 1946, after a forced break during the Second city in the first half of the 17th century. This
the other to use all the space available for World War. This was a period characterized by charming folk festival is centered around the
their exhibits, including the Pavilions in the Neorealism, and masterpieces such as “Paisà” Basilica della Salute, where church goers
Shipyard gardens. by Roberto Rossellini (1946) and “La terra gather on a pilgrimage from all over the city,
trema” by Luchino Visconti (1948) were shown thanks to the temporary bridge that is built
in Venice for the first time. Later editions of for the occasion with wooden rafts that cross
Festa del Redentore (The Redentore Festival) the Festival took on a more international the Grand Canal and which connect the area
the third Saturday and Sunday of July connotation, first on a European scale and of San Moisé and Santa Maria del Giglio with
This festival has its origins in a religious vow, then including countries such as the United the Basilica. On the day of the festival, tables
just like the Madonna della Salute: During States, Japan and India in the competition. In are erected opposite the Basilica with all
the first plague in 1576, the Doge promised to the nineteen sixties the Festival became the types of sweets on them and there are kiosks
build a church dedicated to Christ the Saviour launch pad for the English Free cinema and that sell candles to light in the church to pray
if the scourge that was destroying the city the French nouvelle vague, reinforcing even for good health for relatives and friends.
could be beaten. more the Festival’s international role.
The year after, on July 13th 1577, the plague The Festival continues to be an event that
finished, and the Senate decided to start up a attracts a lot of visitors, both famous and
city festival on the third Sunday of July each non, amidst discussions and autograph
year. The Church of the Redentore (Savior) was hunters. They come from all over the world
built on the Giudecca island and a temporary and provide the Venice Lido with a glossy,
bridge was built to it for the festival, to magical atmosphere.
connect Zattere to Giudecca. This bridge has
been assembled and dismantled every year
since. However, the Redentore is not just Regata Storica (The Historical Regatta)
a religious festival: whereas the Sunday is first Sunday of September
dedicated to a pilgrimage to the church and The historical Regatta is one of Venice’s
the mass celebrated by the Patriarch, the most spectacular and charming traditional
Saturday night is an event of a completely festivals.
different kind. There is a fantastic fireworks The competition was started in the first
display in the San Marco Bay. The fireworks are half of the 13th century and has been
placed on rafts in the middle of the water and much-awaited event for the Venetians for
they light up the bay with a thousand colors. centuries. This is a parade of characteristic
The Venetians wait for the fireworks on boats historical boats from the sixteenth century,
that are anchored in the middle of the bay with the crews dressed in period costumes
and take food and drink with them. They wait and led by the Bucintoro, the characteristic
until about 10 pm when the first explosions boat that represents the Serenissima. After
tell them the display is about to begin. the parade there is a competition on the
Grand Canal, which is watched by Venetian
fans and enthusiastic tourists.
The Venice Film Festival August - September
Each year the Venice Lido is lit up by lights
from all over the world. For ten days it is the Festa della Madonna della Salute
center of world social life. (The Madonna della Salute Festival)
The International Film Festival in Venice was November 21st
set up in 1932, thanks to the encouragement On November 21st each year in Venice, the
given by the Count Volpi di Misurata, who was Madonna della Salute festival takes place
the Chairman of the Venice Biennale at the which is memory of the liberation of Venice
time. The Film Festival started up again in from the terrible plague that struck the
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THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO EXPERIENCE 25 26 THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / ITINERARIES
season you can also relax sitting outside, where we recommend you spend some time.
in the center of Piazza San Marco, listening After visiting the museums, you can walk to
to the music played by the Caffè’s private Campo San Polo, one of the largest squares in
orchestra. Venice. We are now in the San Polo sestiere,
Another historical bar is Harry’s Bar, which that is surrounded by the wide circle of the
was opened by Giuseppe Cipriani in 1931 in Grand Canal: this is one of the smaller sestieri
a small warehouse near San Marco that soon in Venice, but it is also the liveliest in the
became one of the most famous restaurants city: Rialto. As tradition goes, from ancient
in the world. Many artists and writers such times, Rialto was one of the liveliest centers
as Hemingway and politicians and monarchs on the Venetian islands, where the first
have appreciated Cipriani’s cooking, all of inhabitants who had fled from the mainland
whom then contributed to the bar’s legend. concentrated their trade, taking advantage
Arrigo Cipriani, the inventor of the Bellini (a of the higher more stable land, safer against
cocktail made from white wine and peach floods. Rialto was the most important center
juice) made Harry’s famous across the ocean of the group of islands and Rivo Altus (“high
too, and reached New York. Bank”) was the name of the whole town up
Lovers of the opera and ballet can go to to the year 1000, when it then adopted the
shows at the Gran Teatro la Fenice, that was name Venice.
recently rebuilt “as it was and where it was” From Campo San Polo you can walk along
after a dreadful fire. the street opposite the church, lined with
Venice: tourist in San Marco Square If you want a simpler kind of entertainment Venice: Rialto Bridge shops and little restaurants and you will find
in a more informal location, we recommend yourself in the middle of the Rialto Market,
There are lots of ways for anyone to enjoy you go on a tour of the “baccari”: these A two-day itinerary dedicated to lovers of art, at the foot of the famous Rialto Bridge. After
themselves in Venice: you can sip an aperitif typical Venetian pubs with wooden tables architecture and long walks in the open air. crossing the bridge and admiring the view
in one of the elegant coffee shops in Piazza and benches are full of “cicchetti”. Two of On the first day we will take you to discover over the Grand Canal, you can carry on the
San Marco, or you can listen to an opera at the most characteristic are “Do Spade” and the sestieri of Santa Croce, San Polo and right along the Riva del Ferro towards the
the Gran Teatro La Fenice, or discover the il “Volto” where you can drink a famous Dorsoduro, and on the second day we will visit vaporetto stops. Take the vaporetto no. 1 or
traditions tied to the Venetian “bacari”. “ombra” of wine, and drink in the truly Castello, San Marco and Cannaregio. no. 2 to the Lido and get off at the San Tomà
For lovers of more sophisticated things, there authentic atmosphere. stop. As you get off the vaporetto, follow the
is nothing better than to go for a pleasant If you want a place that is full of life, First day signs to Frari and you will find yourself at the
break between museums to an aristocratic we advise you to go to the Campo Santa Our itinerary starts in the early morning from imposing Basilica dei Frari in less than one
and historical place such as the Caffè Florian Margherita area that is the university and the Santa Croce sestiere, which is in the north minute. The pretty Campo San Rocco is next
or the Quadri in Piazza San Marco or at Harry’s artists’ area, and also the Ghetto, especially west part of Venice. The eastern part of the to the Frari. Here you can see the charming
Bar or Harry’s Dolci della Giudecca. The Caffè the nearby Fondamenta della Misericordia sestiere, which is old and typically Venetian, Scuola Grande di San Rocco.
Florian is situated under the portico of the where there are ethnic restaurants, bars is very important for trade as it connects It will now be lunchtime and this is an
new Procuratie and is considered to be one and historical night clubs such as “Paradiso Venice to the mainland. interesting area as far as food goes. Go
of the symbols of Venice. Since it was opened Perduto”. We recommend you take the vaporetto no. 1 towards Santa Margherita and once you
in 1720, the Caffè Florian has hosted many and get off at the San Stae stop from where get to the square, choose a restaurant or a
famous guests such as Goldoni, Lord Byron, you can easily visit all the important sights in pub where you can have something to eat
Foscolo, Goethe, Dickens, Proust, D’Annunzio the area. From the San Stae wharf you can also and drink. You are now in the Dorsoduro
and Eleonora Duse, Rousseau, Stravinsky, admire the façade of the Ca’ d’Oro building sestiere, that covers the southern side of
Modiglioni. The inner rooms are sumptuous: that looks down onto the Grand Canal. Venice, including the Giudecca island. This
The Lounge of Mirrors, the Oriental Lounge, The first attraction you will see will be the sestiere became the favorite area for foreign
the Senate Lounge and the Liberty Lounge beautiful Church of San Stae and then you residents and artists from all over the world
are nineteenth century treasures that can be will come across the old Ca’ Pesaro palace, who came to the lagoon city for inspiration,
admired while sipping some good coffee and where the Museum of Modern Art and the starting from the 19th century.
tasting some dainty cakes. During the good Museum of Oriental Art are housed, and After eating, go to the Academy, where
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THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / THINGS TO EXPERIENCE 27 28 THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / ITINERAIRES
Marino, which houses the “Crocefissione” Venice that you have chosen. If you happen
painting by Tiepolo and also Palazzo del to have more time on your hands and you
Podestà. We also advise you to pop into a want to take longer visiting these Palladian
cake shop on the island to taste the famous masterpieces, you can use one of the several
bussolai buranelli. hotels on the Brenta Riviera (or a bed &
breakfast place) as your base and divide this
itinerary into several days.
Torcello
It is possible to reach the island of Torcello Villa Foscari known as “La Malcontenta”
from the Fondamenta Nuove, taking the line N Villa Foscari is the first villa located on
vaporetto , or by taking the line T motor boat the road leading out of Venice. It is near
from Burano. Malcontenta, a small village next to the
Torcello is an extremely romantic and Lagoon, from which the villa has taken its
charming place. Venetians love to go there nickname. This wonderful villa was built
once in a while as they are attracted by its by Palladio around the first half of the 18th
calm and the greenness of the island. Unlike century for the Foscari brothers, Nicolò
Murano and Burano, Torcello is practically and Alvise, who then made it their summer
uninhabited and still has a lot of archeological residence. The monumental, grandiose
proof of its glorious past. architectural style is a reflection of the
From the wharf, walk along the pleasant ancient power of the Foscari family, which
Fondamenta dei Borgognoni where you Venice: Villa Foscari in the Brenta Riviera was once one of the most important in
will immediately see the famous Ponte del Venice. The interiors are decorated by
Diavolo (the Devil’s Bridge). Further on There is a truly charming, attractive location Battista Franco e Gian Battista Zelotti
there is Piazza Torcello, with its original grass just a few kilometers from Venice: the Brenta
flooring where you can see the wonderful, Riviera, a pretty place full of artistic and Villa Widmann Rezzonico Foscari
ancient Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. cultural interest. This marvelous Villa is in Mira and was built
A whole part of the interior of the church is In the period running between the 16th on the wishes of the Scerimann family, an
a wonderful mosaic showing the Universal and the 18th centuries, some of the most aristocratic Persian family, at the beginning
Judgement. There is also a pretty church, the important families from Venice had their of the 18th century. It was completed some
Church of Santa Fosca in the square, and in summer residences built on the Riviera that decades later by the Widmann family, in a
front of it there is the famous sedia di Attila, runs alongside the Brenta river, a waterway style that is reminiscent of the French Rococo
the throne on which the tribunes once sat that connects Venice to Padua. The most fashion. The main lounge is a wonderful
to administer justice. A short distance away famous architects and painters of the period, sight to see, full of frescoes by Giuseppe
we find the Estuario Museum that contains such as Palladio and Tiepolo, were hired to Angeli, a pupil of Giambattista Piazzetta,
some interesting archeological finds from the create what was to become the symbol of the and Gerolamo Mengozzi Colonna, who worked
Roman, Byzantine and Medieval periods. If aristocratic families grandeur and wealth: with Tiepolo. The Villa is surrounded by huge
you have the time, we recommend a romantic the Venetian Villas. Andrea Palladio created gardens filled with cypress and horse-chestnut
dinner at the Locanda Cipriani, one of the a type of architectural building that brought trees, interspersed by several stone statues
places that Hemingway loved most. together Classical elements copied from the of gods, nymphs and cupids. A Barchessa and
villas of the Roman Empire era and original a small church where Elisabetta and Arianna
characteristics such as the barchessa, a kind Widmann are buried are also part of the
of annex that stood alongside the central part Villa’s buildings.
of the building.
Our itinerary includes all the most beautiful Barchessa Alessandri
Venetian villas and can be completed in a The Barchessa at Villa Alessandri is located
one-day, morning to evening trip that will in Mira, right opposite the Brenta river. It is
eventually take you back to the hotel in guarded by a gate topped by two huge busts
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THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / ITINERAIRES 31 32 THE VENICE CITY GUIDE / Venice Directory by Travelplan
of the Emperors Caesar and Alexander, which the famous architects Vincenzo Scamozzi,
were sculpted in honor of the villa’s first Francesco Contini and Giuseppe Jappelli, who Venice web sites
owner, Cesare Alessandri. followed a design by Andrea Palladio. The
The Barchessa is the home of a superb series Villa is located in Stra, just a short distance Hotels & Lodging Art & Culture
of frescoes that have been attributed to from Villa Pisani. The Villa contains rooms 1 One Stars Hotels - 2 Two Stars Hotels... Glass and Ceramic Art - History...
Giannantonio Pellegrini, the person who that mingle Classical and Gothic elements, all
inspired Tiepolo a few decades later. The filled with frescoes by pupils of Jappelli. The
remarkable frescoes depict a part of the tale Villa also has two permanent exhibitions of Eating & Drinking Education
of Ovid’s Metamorphoses, such as the moment the important Brenta shoemaking tradition. Restaurant - Seafood... Schools & Courses - Universities & Institutes...
when Daphne turns into a tree to escape from
Apollo.
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Barchessa Valmarana
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The Barchessa Valmarana stands on one of the
prettiest sites on the Brenta Riviera, just a
short distance from Mira. The Barchessa was Institutions Internet
originally part of Villa Valmarana, a building
Tourism - Associations... Tourist Portals...
from the 16th century whose main structure
was demolished at the beginning of the 20th
century. The villa’s two external buildings, Itineraries Magazines & Books
which were once used as a warehouse and
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a lodge, survived the demolition. The latter
was opened to the public after restoration
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Villa Foscarini-Rossi
Villa Foscarini-Rossi was built for the Foscarini
family around the end of the 16th century by
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THE VENICE CITY GUIDE 33
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