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에디터 이희조
사진 신형덕, 세바스티안 슈티제
The landscape of Seoul can come off as desolate, with its big skyscrapers and crowds of people
walking at a fast pace. Not only that, it’s difficult to come across a resting place or a park in Seoul,
which is strikingly different from European cities where people stop by a café and have light
conversations with strangers. But an experienced traveler should be able to see through Seoul’s
veneer to get at the heart of the city.
Several layers of history lie at the heart of Seoul. In the winter of 2016, a city-wide candlelight vigil
took place, with people calling for massive political transformation. It was a moment that reflected
the progressive side of Seoulites. Just three decades ago, various demonstrations took place around
the country in order to oppose the dictatorial regime; in the beginning of the twentieth century,
various independent movements opposed the Japanese colonial regime and its oppression. And
before all of these movements of resistance, roughly two centuries ago, there was a long history of
religious movements that stood on the side of the oppressed and called for a reform in the nation’s
class hierarchy. The stories of these religious movements are marked by the various religious
monuments within Seoul. In September 2018, these monuments will be linked by the new
architecture of Seoul Sullye-Gil. The new architecture is not so much a religious monument but
rather a historical site that commemorates the city’s rich history which belongs to everyone.
Dubbed ‘Camino de Seosomun,’ the second course of Seoul Sullye-gil starts off at Myeongdong
Cathedral, a symbolic site of Korea’s Catholic Church. Although Myeongdong Cathedral is widely
known as the biggest Gothic cathedral architecture in Seoul, not many people know about its
historical background. Formerly called ‘Myeongrye-bang’ (literally meaning a Myeongrye room), the
church began as a humble residential room where Kim Beom Woo, a translator of Chinese and a
Catholic follower, began to hold religious meetings in 1784. A religious community was established
through indigenous efforts. In fact, Korea is the only country in which… Religious efforts in Korea
reflect people’s desire to reform the status quo social structure based upon Confucian thought.
Unfortunately, Myeongrye-bang became the target of oppression as the Joseon regime confiscated
all of its books and imprisoned Kim. And so began a long history of oppression.
Towards the end of the nineteenth century, the liberty of having any religious belief is proclaimed
within the Joseon Dynasty, at least in name. Afterwards, Father Blanc, Father Mutel, and Father
Coaste establish Myeongdong Cathedral at the site of Myeongrye-bang to. The Cathedral’s steeple
stands out the most, its height seemingly reaching towards the sky. Right now, Namsan Tower lies
behind the Cathedral. At the time, the Cathedral was the tallest building in the capital, and one can
imagine the awe that it would have inspired in people. Among several paintings in display within
the Cathedral, an oil painting that depicts religious gatherings held at Myeongrye-bang is notable.
The painting depicts a room crammed with people in hanbok and gat studying the Bible. It’s not
difficult to see why the Joseon regime initially assumed the religious study as a meeting for
gambling.
명동성당을 지나 서울시청에 다다르면 복잡한 도로 맞은편으로 주황색 기와가 돋보이는 아담한 서양식
건축물이 눈에 띈다. 16 세기 로마 가톨릭에서 분리된 영국교회에서 시작된 성공회는 가톨릭과
개신교를 아우르는 중도적 문화를 표방하며 전 세계 약 1 억 명의 신자를 가지고 있다. 이 주황색
건물은 바로 1920 년대 한국에 처음 세워진 대한성공회 주교좌성당이다.
아름다운 건축으로 손꼽히는데도 불구하고 성당이 생각만큼 주변에 많이 알려지지 않은 데에는 이유가
있다. 성공회는 교회보다 성공회대학교를 비롯해 사회적 약자를 위한 교육 및 복지기관이 많다. 교회의
사회적 책임을 중요시해 사회정의를 구현하는 실천가를 키워내는 데 앞장서고 있는 성공회다운
설명이다. 일상에서의 삶과 순례가 멀리 있지 않듯, 교리와 실천이 멀리 있지 않음을 일깨워주는
구간이다.
서소문역사공원 & 약현성당 Seosomun Historical Park & Yakhyeon Catholic Church
Tip. 서울시 도보관광 해설을 들으며 서울순례길을 걸으면 훨씬 유익한 시간이 될 것이다.