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    2 views272 pages

    Cooking Sous Vide Under Pressure by Thomas Keller

    Uploaded by

    Damian Wysek Wysocki
    Cook

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
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    of 272
    OU SOs G1 A Cami eR les Mae 1 oy Aen vie leh =e dar Mee | EE |= 8 UNDER PRESSUR “Taal he chefs who have imped and menrored me trosghout ay carserthose wake Roland Henn, helped gue me and send me why we cook: to mare others. ‘An forest 1a those who have worked ely a The Freeh Laney per se, Boucos, SBouchon Haken and Ad Hoc, bt past and preset, fr thee contributions the evoation four restaurants. Only thragh ch color effet ie his bok posible “To my moticr. Margery my father Howard and my wile Elzabetk foe sppoing ia ie edeation andes. Te the cooks at The French Laundry pet and present, with whom chs riper were developed “To my wife, Ane, ani daughters. Ave and Grace for teir ‘constant support To my gradmeer, Mavi and my aun. Jeanete whose sions fr eusin ispte my ovn. Aad omy tf A Bri History Jonathan enn ‘corey Lee Sebuton Rowe Wha Sou Vie Ca Aci, Glance Thre Base Principles Four Base Techies safety Im Owe Kitchens In th Hone Kitchen A POWERFUL NEW COOKING TOOL harotn mecee THIS BOOK INTRODUCES AMERICAN COOKS TO ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTAN linaryinnovtonsof modern ties Andwhat minin she temperate you st it and isthe great adance? A way of esting foe over the wate round so the emperature i procs Atle! Heat & the most inportant even rougher he bath, Ingo in ooking the one tha can ta Sows ie ian ely the bes ame for this fam all he others ino something dees method because he wacnn-packing the fem ce tn someting diy and dull 1 ao che acts ois es important than temper inp that has been the ards to measure ate contr “Peision cooking” would be ‘rewire Burin hisbok, Thomas Keller and better een Bu for now, ou vide it Heche irate the powers of ecso eat- The iar of sus wide cooking isthe com ing with dozens of dishes tat woulda be at wold application af late low heats fue. oc ren sonable, without ot eamigh 0 cook the food proper no “This new heating medod isthe twenty- more. A pot of boling water ora hot ven fix-cenury veson ofthe Bur uric or water cook pd at higher rompers ha by ath which oesbacko medial ins. epee eh time the center of the fond reaches the bythe names meaning "underwsuim” proper sempertre, the outside iat less and it ivohes two new appliances and rwo ary overcooked. Ifyou don't get the ining baie Reps. Fst you we a vacuun-picking jt sighe meats end up dry and vegeesles machine eo sel fod tig in plac bag, mushy. But i you heat food in water an ‘Then you immerse the bag in 2 water bith tained at exaly the emperanre you want he heated enact tthe optima cooking tempes- fod each, iwllend up cooked prop seo. The acu -packe bg hug the Feed, ely throughout protecting om conacewith he woterwhile As diced on page 13, the so vide tearing the heat dey from the hot method was developed in France he easly sence The bath i regulated by device cle 19708, Cooks in the United Stats ft heat 4 iomersion eivelatoe combination of aboutiea decade er but the Fod and Deg thermometer heer and pom that moniter: Adminstration ised safery concerns and he thetemperatis hes the waterjustenoxgh 0 equipment was unntir ad expensive, Sus ‘ide cooking moe or x fied Som the cee ‘util 2000, wen Gérard Bertolon «French chef red food-company excite, demon seated it vies to Dail Bold, Thos Kale and other leading American chefs and showed them how wwe i safely. The chefs then dicavered what renakable things they col do with i. an the word speed siting tha the fit boot presen he sou vide method 10 English-speaking cooks comes fom Thomas Keller, one ofthe mot ete and adied cel of his generation whe cocking is dep seco inthe French tation, No one i in a beter poston #0 show tha. from Being some passing high tech fd, oe ide a sing contin 0 fine coking, eeu thar makes i posi be to cook foode move consistently and ecard han ev bf “The most important an obvious benefit of remperture contol tht ensces aginst under- or ovewooking fod. Bue as they've experimented wich dec by-degresprecion cooking chefs have made soe unanticipated Aicoveret In the pt, we've defined the donnes of ena sh depen eof theo boul caaprien paige remportre range of 10 degrees C (8 dares oe mor, Yer it um out that epee © (6 03 depres F) can make a liens! Cooking salmon gently eps it moist, bat silmon cooked 10 489°C (10°F) is moist aa slighly ck whe son cooked 506C (127F)isslihly Geer an no loager tacky. An eg sof-cooked a 60 (14°F) is bore jell rough a 628 (457), the yolk is acruly firmer thas the sunning ie, Sou vide cooking at aponed up nes seams of texte and favor that were i etnible before and that ail ate’ filly adeno Sous vide as alo opened wpa new omer in coking times. Taonly ough cuts of mest were cooked for several hours at 82.210 933 (180 w 200°) 10 dsolve chee cow retve ues ito sof gelatin, Bat chose igh tempers lo aaite metre So the met fibers and dey them out. Teday cooks sing so vide can serve sore rb and brisket can uncaitional mediante, ender yet ri by ooking them at 52°C (5) fra uous Here again coks ate coaing new ex tutes eel avon from aia ingesiens and ting new peti roo since, Kitchen ingenuity har even turned the ‘vacu-packing machine lf nto tol for tefning tditonal dies and inentng new ones, The orga! industrial purpose of vacuum packing was to make fods eer Ile nid exposure tthe ai and give them a longer shelf Le Restawamt chefs herve thee me benef Gm it bt they ave aio discovered ther wemin-pcking an mak fod look and ate beter fe maintin the shape offhand ment ding ooking. for ceample, and compeeser frit los 40 that they become translucent, intense, almort mea Do the advantage ofthe so vide meta portend the mechanization of profesional cooking the umph of technology ove cra? 1 doa chink sa. Precision esting. offers npeecedented contol over exe and aver and consequently more textures and Haors shone sma jit a cook ct ow choo fiom on unpecedented range of ingeients and techniques fom all over the word Cooking certainly becoming les simply te von, bu at the atte time is becoming smote personal, more expresive occ coos ln nagination au tate In this bok, Fried ehefi explain the piel of sons vide ooking ond hae wt theye created with ts op They ge yur an excenive vw of hi new tersitory and itt powsbilies. And then ivt your turn to capo PRECISION OF EXECUTION NTAL ADVANTAGE OF SOUS VIDE IS PRECISION. BEFORE SOUS VIDE very tne we applied ett Food we eliad on our senses and cur experience fo know when the food had ceached the right temperatre=that is, ro kaow when 10 sp the cooking, because you almost vay cook food at higher tempers chan you want the food to rack When we ost a sade of lami, for example the cooking temperate is hundeeds of degrees higher than the st4C (807) we want the finished Land tobe, With sus vide, we can cook tars fas longa tak The degce of pecision sus vide allows is xray. bt you sl have ro know how to cook Sous vide enables you abe precio in Aercemining cooking temperatures. bur youre sil cating hat amb ade ying i engaged repetition of ehnigue that ess ina pevfct lamb sue day fie day. The prec sion sous vide allo reminder of how precision undebes everything we do at our reseurants Pecon of era, precision of cnecution i diy, huey. inue-by-minate stn From practi stnpoine, pecs’ goal is coniseney, and consiteney may be she single mos important ictrinany esturant’s success, wheter dat erate canal or Fe-ining desination, Consistency oe the progressives or renement of the esi the doth of dhe wine list, he design of the 100m, the quality ofthe product ilimatly ‘the best rests ar judged on, ‘Any restaurant ies cern expectations Jn the mind ofthe cascomet, and the rest rane succeds onl by matching or exceeding hose expectations For those restaurant promis dining of he highest quality exper ions are very high. Precion of execution, fom the cooing ofthe lamb othe way the server push or her shumb onthe ei of the ae rather than on op oF, and eveything before, af, and in ems, what we ae judged 00 esx at every el, rom the ascent te fe comes ie in the roe ing to the moment when the counters ae ‘wiped down before the kitchens empy forthe night. Ke not enough oscced a our gal 90 pewent af the ine, We el fe ae not com ‘When 1 noticed one evenings per eth the pine’ tape that holds down the nights menu the ps ad Ben at tigi angles vith a nie, 1 was suri, then gated “That one of the servers, Zion Carel, had decided ro ake this sal agua ieeevane ec something the otomer never ee, and tring sine precision to i, enemplen the erriting ethos of the etree. Precision is lo about setting examples "samples a inportant wo useulually with ‘out them. we doit aya foundation for the nest generation, la dhe stra, the prec sion wich which weacompl the same tasks over aod over reinfres the iportance of thee rein for our youmgersaff—ohether {te cating the pinierstape othe way we pt ‘hing: ay. o° buying the lms scknowledg sng he gusty of tha amb, having the se suppliers and soon Precision goesbeyond the Caing brie, the very ie vegetable dice is anther example of precson. You anno have preciton without repetion. You cto tchsique ever wel oer and over and ove agin al i¢becorncs part of you in {sour movements in your mul, nthe way you feck Coaisteney is taking prcsion of setion snd ning i routine Pat of wha so appease about pt ti nal. Precon no pc te of doing he same ching ver and oer—itsbout realy loving repetition, the chance to do something gan and agin, ely at che same point in the day The repetition of doing it ver end ere every dy eu n bing slot hve act that Ieee ite flesh onthe bone, tring you the best eld fom she bor posble fh, You ge ely good att You ge loner and closer w the perfect. Anudsous deals us after weve doveall hac weak, apply es i the mast extn way cook the food with the pecton that swe bagan wth when we got to work. I you on'cook ight all your work elo So pre son in hint i simply expt for lie, sot mating anything In dhe same way dat sous ie is one com ponent in a broad spectrum of cooking techagues, ti lo one componene i ou guest for preston a ctery level In other word sue Wie ie this another sep i WHY SOUS VIDE? AND SHOULD, ASK THE SAME ABOUT AN subject the f (2257) higher than that. Ta cok thar same of endeloin sous vie, we would vant pick i and put i into 517° (125) water “The advanag eee over outing isha when you ae the een, you hee to determine ther ymin and experience o br sing a thermometer when teaches S17 (128) cae the intemal temperature & acing limon towend che oven tempers: when you we sous wide, thar tenderloin eth go higher than s.7°C (a5). Init che opin emperstne nd i aps these mney padre Moreover, when you use a high-heat ‘meta suchas roasting, the exetir of the mea ges very hot, past well-done and inside yon get what we cal the buls-ye effect cee rings of wal-done, edixr-wel ‘nein ed ee Wi du We or ei terderon nat ut he ent is the emperae rare we want ito be Indod, sous vide i considersbly easier ‘han the othe ebiguc because i takes ll the gucewock out of cocking. If we wnt to sau sy an lain oan internal tempers tare oF $4416 (90°F), 40 thai wil rie 10 60°C (407) bythe timee sie and serve i ‘neha to be viglat a with an inmersion iealtr, we can program 2 empertie of exsty 60°C (40) int cu cook vie ‘We cnt heat or amt pen to ect tempest rare: we cam only jag when i the ight rempeciure by observing the spp im the cil of the smoke beginning t0 rise om the pan IF you were t pecpare this ab ein oe 2 arty ing sou vide, yu could do the fia Preparation ahead and then, when the gst ative. you could drop the vacur- packed lam oi ao the water yout eated 0 60° (HO). Within shal our oF 0, he Fant sro bee peste stay ha nay ul you were ready Fort ‘Agtin, so vide it very fogving—your Window fr taking it ou ofthe het lage than with che more fame techniques tees the food is cooked a these and ie would peti at which we wet Bi. Bate colds eve hat ib nthe wt foray. ten though it would never gp above 6" (40'F) and ie would stl look perfctly cooked, it woud fel oversooked end taste snplemanyou ea overconk fod sous ve sven fit never look avercocked. Hecate weal ike that seared exeior we From high est we sear the a afer it comes out of the bag Gee Mesalions of san elds Farm Lamb Saddle, page 160, for on suck example), Indeed, how we pe pre the ment before it goes into the bg ac ‘what we da when ifs or are par ofthe rf of cooking out ide Another example of the benefits of ooking sous vide that simpy arent possible sing any ther technique: When you brie se aul simmer her igi a temperatures ranging ror 82.2 t0 989'C (80! t0 2107). But at abou 68¥C (557) the meat releases mot ofits juices to the coking qua’ wi mast ofthe Mor ends up i the sae {With sous vide, yn can cook shore bs Blow 656C (G01"F for 48 hous long enough 0 render the meat tender but without heting the meat pat the poine where i ns ale juices The tender aaa has an explosive Aayor of is awn but none ofthe dab gray calor hat come fom Tong raising Cooked sour vide, nongreen vegetables, seh as canoes and tsmps emerge wilt a0 Jou of noe ro the ooking medi, nor do they fl spar. Frat ich a watermelon and pineapple acquire an una, wonderflly dense testa when compresed by vacua packing, Pale Suit such append pers one ene ad their color sey vid, and faut such as cherves take on a porous veandacea appearance. These ae few of the many wonders of souvide ecae sou vide spies so many aspect of cooking I blew i wil ne day be fala fo home cooks a sing Fog ie noe Mirowaving fod war once unfailing fier all, and sous wide in my cain, has many more applications than does the SOUS VIDE EQUIPMENT “The wo pice of equipment equed te cok sous vide afe « chamber vacuum-packing machine alan immersion circaitor View packers emove i fom pln bag and sea Removing he aie ensues efficient heat transfer between the water and he food and, becnise oxygen encourages spoilage and frezer bun, it improves che he He ofthe food inthe bag There ace many diferen sz of chamber packers, fom big boc shaped countertop spplisncas foe ell oe wie, and 1 foot decp with lear ome ke le to stand done nodes on rollers The bagged food i id inside the chamber he ar sacked ot of he ‘bg and he bogs seed ‘Chamber vc packet an exere alot of prune orate pressure onthe food in he tag, An important consideration in cooking su vide is jut how much presse to we IF sexe cooking a delat fb, you dont wart to ens tf yon coking + hard oot ve table, you want vacuum packed tiga posible in onder 10 ensue the most ecient eating possible. Pecape one ofthe most important abilities chamber acum packers ve tha they an eal ag conrining lig ingrdint sucht scusurd base or marinade, or any number of items that we wa to cok with a (ash as lie of oc with stock Packers intended for home we (and a home budget) en ely omnpes ood. and if ou ave liu ithe tg. those tend to be acted ont along with ‘esc raking good sel difiale you ve let sel quid in plate, oor by to cook sou idee etic ag coz i consideration a wl since Where ace many manufaceres snd bap are made in varying thichnenen, We we a al purpore .oos-nch-thick bap turd enough that iewonpancutewhena loco presses wed but ao cote-fficient. Whatever mate- ral you choose should be ted foe we with food product and for us ot bling tempers tures, 100°C (127). Inmection cecalrrs have thc key fe tars aeatngemene that heus the water 2 temperature conta dat miatsins precise temperatures, anda punp that eveuaes the ‘wate: The immersion alas i oached to niuerer sort of eoeiner oe tank youte cooking the food in plage in, ae ured ‘on and the temperate i then otto wht ve deposit lle or: could’ be simpler FINDING THE BALANCE Ie is importnt to keep in mind shat sous vide oes or eplae th cookingretiodsIesan uional techni, wih 2 ange of ava tapes Tor insane, a The French Lundy. we do alan’ neck ihn wich she neck Best erased low and slow until the mest is rmlingly tener Then we reve the mest fo the nek eon it hap icine aroulde and bilan we ae ready wo potion and ook Wecould cook theneesous vide cher ‘hap out bat the nied ih eqs a cern quality tht we like when the meat i soon for ight hour. The mea browns and aks on a spi tere, andthe juices sacral in the pa can ke dled with ede stock and at wo de me We want lf thse avr in the ished ss (On he otherhand, frat rege ng stow cooking we ween st vide cise the adantages of raking the cut tender without binging i above 635°C (49977) exceed che advantages Fras tin he oven. Ths point is iporaneTheehniqu doce nt define the we define cur got forthe di and loose the techigue dt wl lp neo achive es those gos Although the mess we woul raitonally bie are bette on 10: many levels when cooked sus vie ven here we doit go over completely 10 sous vide. We sill ou seat acd bras bee cheeks and ost ia the tational fnhion, because is esenial thar we don’ Ise the experience of cooking these specie des when you sauté Routed meat in hot ft the aroma and sounds ae important Some dishes ae wrapped up inthe motions of cooking itl and belp us © apprecete what woke cooking, and 1 dott ‘ra aloe that ‘Othe cooking techniques requ a evel of (Glarng carota good example, ae in Fact it eepesets my biggest confce abou sous vide. Glcing vegetables ean elemental tech rig, bu it dificult do peri Most cook doit hue vegetable pred Beeanse they dos’ pay aterion tothe process. It ree thought and the experince of ving done it over and over to develop 28 inate sense of how mach water, utter sale. and wx tose how wo know when the caroeare done: how to achieve that beaut lequeed laze just st the moment the carts are ‘cooked throngh but no overcooked hr with sous vide youhove eee glazed across every tne, Yer there ome danger in ooking techniques that dont eeguike much smrenton. Elina the need to pay attention a yu elma the era. And wher yout etait erat you imine omeok the ope- ‘eal ewarde and sulle of coking “This became clear to me at per se wh the New York Ciey Heath Department una nile with sou ide technics, asked 0 stop cooking shelch sous vide Wed bec cooking lobster ‘here and at The French Landy sealing an uncooked shelled laser tll with butter Jn psc and dropping eso a water ba ape 595°C (99.°F) The lobster wae pe fel cooked in fen minute. andi woud sy prc cooke fr another ten minutes AF we waned 0 hold ie Previously weil proce the lb tin bute (oi arm ies envieonment just ke sous vid) ‘Buc in a busy restzurne when youre serving sou vide for sever years say of thee, among many other items, the Iabiter cam aeroak. Son vide pended 2 tates economical (brane it rpied ach lee burt and eto fv lobe, onset vere. Bat for a while, becuse of the beak parents concems we hae earn oh oigalbute-ponching method Ad all oy ‘hel thought, “Oh, how exciing—this is rent” Weld reuned cbr cooking roa cee by inrdiing the capacity fr tre It had ‘become cllnging—and thereon satising ‘when dane well Tete no cee opting 2 le bag in water for eweny mites. Inthe ongoing eration of dhe and secriques, we now heat the bust sing che immesson sirculator and cook the lobster inthe baer (oe page 83), are butter poaching bur with he conta of sus vide, (On the one hand, sum ve i Heating, ‘Yor donee t continually monitor the ar chokes or cars or ay of thse veges hac have editionally taken so much dine and attention, There are alo a numberof purely prac advantages, ppc for a rea rant Sous ride is very clean. IF you'e asain chicken you dan hae = big eon tain fled with slot of marinade shat cn splash or spl stead, you hve chicken esty eae i hg with sal amount of ma rade, Became we cok 40 may thing sue Vide the vets and ovens ae Feed up for other preparations, And storing food our vide it nest ane efit (On the other hand, I valu the craft of ooking probubly more than anything So for me. the question Becomes how to rie the two reas, the ese and consistency of sot dead the sled rf of cooking, How we both sepeet triton and embrace popes? The are culling. question, ecaue there i « wonderment in the cise and precision of ooking sous vide the bl iy w cooks piece of men niformly ao hat fick median-rave a both the ees and in the ‘ear ln the end, welll want advance the eft of cooking and the techniques that hae ben handed down row over the yeas, bar that doce mea igovng the new col tha become wale to hope this book is edn we ways Fi, ofecurse ata een to ay of exploring these vahable aew techniques, derpening oe sppreciaion of fair ones. and undentand- ing the recipes and dishes execute by chefs at “The French Laundey and pre. sts npr tant I ope tht you wil be ispized by the ‘eciniges and reper an dat you wll wae to head into your owe tchen and compose now disks, take che aplicsons you lean ee, and mone them in all new directions Inspiration, o me the mest imporant ad nos excing pat of ooking MY PATH TO SOUS VIDE IRONIC BUT TRUE: FROZEN CONVENIENCE FOOD BROUGHT ME TO SOUS VIDE and its exciting we in hate cs. T been tng a machine to waco pack fie pat a8 far back ax 1986, when Tas che and eo ‘wer af Rael in lower Manhatan, Foie gas isan expensive item that tends eo oxtie ‘When we removed oxygen from i envio sent, it ay feher longer and we could ale portion tin advance: Oceaioaly weld ook caro and af her veges i acu packed bag. in pot oF simmering water on the stove beanie it wat esi © cok and ta pck dom up forsee hat ma. ‘ tut even thngh it ws being sed by some of Enmpe's grat hei, we didnt ealy think much about sous vide. When T lee Rake a 1990, | eft the vacuun-packing machine behind at well dst have an inkling shat ic ropresented the beginnings of revolution incooking 1 opened The Foch Landy in 1994 By 1995, med done well enowgh 10 ies bigger and beter ken, one with room fr 2 vacium packing machine, which again ne were sing to ore foe gras and cook some ep ‘les Meanie we lo ep coking dick oho ane treats wrapped in plate We the duck wrapped in a beghe green Sea Manche Napa cabbage orchard. We couldet roar or nt its we decided to doin water ‘Weil blnch ea of Nep cabbage, weap it sound 4 sesso ack best, ll it up in pls wo crest sal rule and He off, then pote it frst inate. Thi i teh rigue one weer 10 cook ext pité fre soitwat' much ofaleap ofthe imagination shape and cook ater fos thi wa. The dick te out beaut, wnifem medin-ane wih iv goen wrapper and. perfect shape In 2000, Gérard Bertolon at Cuisine Selutons spprtched me, slong wth Daniel Beal Chae Tren anda wate he to create mesic disher that the company ceded ket under thelabel Five Lest sestntane-sye medi dat would be cooked sous ie and sold fazen, Whatever meals we Aesigped had co be sourvie fen 90 1 «ould design ads that ele on acre reatre and. ofcourse, I ha 0 choose fds hac would old up wel hep Th wa really ny St encounter wth applying Sra sous vide technique oa ange of foods, and 1 di my "Mac n° Chee” Ibert and 4 monfish stow: The starch, the protein and the sae are all pckd separately. Aer ah is brought ve temperature. dhe dh gets assembled. We leaped atthe chance 19 work wth Cuisine Solations becase i give ws ces to technology that we knew would be eneichalt reper ‘That summer, Bertholon came to The French Lady He brogt with hin hit main oo: a imerion cra I never sen one Before, and when wetted ame cour peo pps withthe cielo at low het, the effets of sow eooking in water were celle I think all chefs are fic rated by united wane se what can be dane with them. Now we fad che sly to regulate and maintain precise tem peratures and we experimented with just abouceverting 1 wrapped sole sound Biche and sins sealed it in plat and poached it fra veson oF sole Veraniqe. The gee uniform tm perature of the water nas peifct for the Acute fish. This low-temperature, moist cooking enviconneat which eines sous vide cooking een worked witht pli, For 3 rnd chicken breast el bring 9 pot of mi oa bod, hen taki ofthe ove drop ‘he chicken in the mil, coer it. and pti the plate warmer We ever id ono he remperture, andi aay came et perecy done Se lcoug wel been sing elated eech- igus fra couple of years. it was ony aer (Cisne Solionsntaaced ws tothe immer sion ciclo that I stared rounders the scence flow cooking in plastic in water ane iterations, leva edt apparent to all the chef how exiting and vared the pplitins of boli a bag? were. The sous wie techniques uily lear theres 0 ‘numerous es. and we have work wth hese for courte dither at The French Launde eras both Bouchons, and Ad Hes A BRIEF HISTORY ‘Sous vide cooking hat long been pt of com mecca food production for its ecomomy. ssfery, and effin. bony recent has it reached the kitchens of fine-dining esta rants where most excng splits are bing explorod every diy. “The modern tof out vide began in the ely 19708, when Frenh biohemise and microbiologist in love with food, Bruno Gousait realized that you could make an inexpensive. ough cur of ee ender by cok Ing ita very ow empeatre ‘scwunpcking fod ad seedy been ud ot ever decades, proce it ered ted wo the Hille Bro. coe company ec ‘he enh cenuy nee 9408 acompay called Ceyorae used plastic 0 shak-wrap turkey for fering. (The inreased scl ie helped turn what had been season food ino 2 yearcounl supermarket a staple) Inthe 1960s, hams and snags were being viemm-pected for preervation in els meat rope, nlite ater they were ale cocks in tha hermetic erironmen, in fst being paeried. In other wordy, when thee items vere cooked in pai dhe bate tha cated hei pole were clininated, and thus our food routes became much safer tn1o7a, Gousal employed by company called Soil wat ak by eqs Bore. who ran Winpy a Fuopean feo chain, 20 fice out «way 10 ake Inexpensive cut of beef—meat that normally dri out during the long cooking te required~ tender andi CGousalt found tha by cooking the meat cua pack in ater bath ina oven eat could msn very low trperataes (this case 60°C [140 he wis able to crete render ey roduc. oust lo traveled co «hospi io Seen that wat sealing fod In plastic and cooking ita 5 (157) fe the parpones of psteuriantin, He compared cooking fod in atc in water at low empersares wih igh fpwteuization temperstuee and found that thelamer temperatures eat in beter fod Acs conference of the Tnaitat Inerationa «4 Froid in Srbourg in 974, be delivered a paper thar hel wrtten with colleague eseribing. these favorable rests of ls temperature cooking “That same yet) Roane, Fran, Jon “Things, the Michelin tse sar chef, we trying wo improwe his cor a very expe item” fie gis, he fattened ver of owe 0 ck. When Toso cooked i sing a ional methods, he was Fusrated by the quant fi that ke ut He wondered if ‘thre wat a wat cook foe gra tha resked ines fr lo, ane se a oa chart named. Georges Pus for lp. Pras was reve fora gron peppetcorn has he male ud Togs knew hin tobe clever with ood He rped athe Fie ee challenge Pra fond hat if he wrapped the ler in several ayers of plastic wrap and cooked in hot, but noe bolting, water, che foie ras ettned considerably more fat chan when cooked comentonlly His discovery male th arta of the sus vide teciique in the Iigh-endresturane ichen Beth Pris and Gavssale continued 10 plore the applications ofthis whet fem of cooking, Pralus in the ches kitchen, Gauss inthe indus htchen. In 1979, Pras founded a cooking choot teach chefs out sou vide techiique. In #981, he CCryowe company hired Gousault to work wh Pals in is htchen eo systematize whet ssl rf guided primal by snsion Here Goutal began to meu the behvor fete tari temperate. 1983, Hens Gale, a origina author of asked Gousale to help him wih project Fane's national ein stem, SNCF, hoped to lave people back ont lonp-diance tains vi ec dining The two sen then approached Jodl Robuchon. he Faria che considered second ta none inthe werd. Cond he bring hie eree-xar cuisine 9 apeoding long the rertaurant guide Gault Mil is, Robuchon sepia. bur only 4 hey could ensure the quality and consceny that te demanded f hic rigade a his start Jamin, And so Goulet shout reiting tnd recording the intemal temperate of very food thar ast be cooked, t every step ofthe way. om before twas heated trough carsyoree Only inthis way wa be beable 1 produce the ret Robuchon wanted. The two men worked Fr more than two yes Aevelop 4 mens for the Fai-eo-Serasbourg lie. The rin wa anche in 985. oth Goose and Prat continued t0 pre sou vide expertise and co each i Gout with Robuchon and Ga, evens Aly opened school ro nvr chcfs in this new kind f cooking On ofthe ren who eke this in 1987 was Sais Vigan whose fam ha een nthe come ood busines for seven generation, Wigan inmedietey sensed that sous ie echniqesceuld be wed ‘with nny the fd i company pepe and he ened Gousal ep when hi mn ‘apanded io a new company called Cuisine ‘Solon, which would be basin Asani, Vian In 198, Gousule began working ia Wishing on a coauleant bs (he bier became the company che sient), a French hein Rye, New “ork, tok slr to work forthe bung, company Grant Berton had sine under several Michelin stared chefs in Europe and “That sey learned ecu about sous vide there seme how importants mighe be While fm he Unite Sate, ad contin to ear aout auopean chefs expounding on the rmalable ues of sus vide cooking, When he learned dat the company in Alexandia was hicag 2 reearch-and-development chef, be seized the opporaier Cisne Solations would grow nto x busi= ne with $90 elon in anlar whlly reliant on wus vide appliaons Ie prepares 00.0002 30.000 filly cooked pasteurized, and then fozen meals « dey for dens as vere athe US. Armed Fores, Cota, ar “TG IFeday's in Japan, swells ccaing lines oF rua gourmet ode (i this ene, cooked ‘ut oe ace for such French ninais as Alun Senderens, But in America in the cathy 1990, sous vide sell implied icroy fod Berthalon and. Vigan knew they needed top Armerican cei validate he techie so Bertolon approche cheF restate Daniel Boule to dacs crating line of revturn see meal that would be cooked tous vide. By 2000. Berholon’ line had expanded to include scale created by a saber of Nero other chefs who hae worked a French hitchens lve si ebeace sou vide, ‘Ae myo hs nmin ake nig of poston of treprace to abomce pr rroaonyin ew diretons WHAT SOUS VIDE CAN ACHIEVE, AT A GLANCE ny ofthe rsp we exphin pecicaly Fon TeMoER curs OF MEAT hy sus vide application are valle: Most Sous vide allows us to ahi foods canbe cooked vous vide with pet sue- internal emperture—fo ea je be per cess, but some foods shold not be cooked et mum in lamb ain, the pes sos vide. The color of green vege iar ina gua breart—every tne bewcli,aparagus, peas et.—is harmed by = Withsout vide, we can get the same emp sou vide Grains and cove (Fe and past, ate throughout he entre ut ot as for example) donot bene manyapprecale the cent. vy fo ovat vie. B ca be sli 0 the mj of food Her « ron Touen curs oF meat down of 1 Half the meats we cook are rough—om ase sieny meat, such os heart, ges tongue 0 shank and shoulder cu All of the. without exception, beni fom sous ide technics cok ough cus of rues that at enough tat hey dont dey ‘out che meat (basing does) bu that ae emake the meat og an cook & pot cout cook i lng enough 2 that i+ ching tender ae pink Often we confit the tough cutsfor instance, ck legs. ook belie, snd ge catty of rendered sled bergen ag it and ooked gel fo hour, the in that ft. With sos vide, you can achieve vie cay the same res wih em faz moreover, yous not wtngvlable wen ype: that, when yous coofteg train, mut be bept at 2 very low + Tough cat cam be brought diferent con ences ae desired. For cxample «pork belly might be cooked unt iis fling apart tenderorjurtuni itis tenderbu ot ling spar lfm enough ob ied ‘Fish peshaps moce than any prose, hat | such a small window of donences that seu the met nat dhe ps of the | cook. Sous vide makes cooking fh eter ‘nd more consistent, especialy in a busy tchen. + Because high hese Maors (he complex Aavors fom roasting of satéing) will develop, i cooked eu vide as avery pre fave + Some fish sch esalmon, cooked sou vide 4 ver low temperature develop ylup uous texture ati imponle to achieve sy other ay + Fish once poached in court bouillon can ow be cooked ina small amount of iid wit small moun of aromatic estbles fora biger and beer favor + Seafood such a lobster, otopay,and guid can ently eome tough when using high eat The low het of sous vide allows 29 «wok them though and keep them eto inary ender. BREE eee eee eee eee ee eee eee eee ee eee eee eee ee eee eee eee eee et + All rot veges canbe cooked sou ide with excellent resin tris of tests Aavor and color. Forexunpe, porate ook throvgh withou thei exterior vercooking, tumips cok rough elganty enhanced th a Naor xt, ane eerots ean vivid cage + Some sfie vogebls ane excelent cooked sous vieonion and fennel, fr instance, become tender without overeooking alin apart. Il nonpren veges. ren nen and rahe to enlive can be eff deny and elegantly flavored in the soe vide bag, + Frits ae perl and constr cooked in the same way render vegetables ae. In ‘don Fai, which ae especialy suscep tle co rapid exidarin and discoloration, remsn ugh when cooked sos ide aher ‘than becoming dll and brows, + Marinting mess sus vide net anf + Compresing food sous vide can ral in esate eure and brighter colors, + Geuly compresing food an esr shape such aa rule + Sou vide allows us cook food before sr vice and chil to olds thea be aise dante at these minute, with no ‘compeonise whateerr of ei. + Stead oven pace, valuable ses in bay crowded kitchen a feed up when one ot sane rade te beng + Sout vide requis lee “people power"—the cools imei nt spet tending the po. they ae ee te concentrate on other work + Consistency: everthing ca be cooked wot option temperatura tea every ine + Ciclator ae portale lowing ut cook snyhere * Cooler spice is ffinty aed with food stored tou vide, When we el food sous ide, we ate infer erening the pefct= sist cominnee sicher than stcing. for ample, 750 miler feud base in 8 iter containee + Sang food cus vide prevents dae fom ‘nition + Food seed and cooked sus vide, then cooled and oced, has a dramatically ince selFie This expecially with tard buses, which rn fect pares by the cooking proce ands hep for mone than a eck if well child + Sous vide allows ws ro pick up 0 serve the foal efcent THREE BASIC PRINCIPLES. “Thebes pr npr one PRESSURE Presse i determined by the power of dhe ‘scum packer The wacuum packer extracts ai foo te soe ide bag, gaceing the bag tightly gun the fod, sometimes even coe presing the food. The gictons 10 ak i ‘order fo determine the desired pees ae thse: Do you wane he tem sealed vr. very tighly or ven comprened? Oris he tem 39 delice thai wl be crushed by woo much presse? Is theres hone thar might puncture the bagi t00 much prose ed? Chamber acu yeckers pial, hive one gage for the a0 of pss un second gauge forthe duttion oF packing case vacuum packing machines vary. gn cea senings For pecking ee veommended (dow mim, sd igh) in the ecipes here Many factors decermine the appropiate pce sure; sealing time is dereined by she thicken of the bag, The gauge on the packing bac records how hot igs. Thicker bag ed a eat 9 fire completely For hard items, sich a carrots, we want high premut 4 thit omg i omoved and the pti is ihe aginst che vegetable as pombe, resulking in the maximus surface areacomingint contac with the wie’ est. Tene for maximum surfice areas ue for depending on how daicte the cut i For tems we want «compres, such at porous Frits ad vegetable, aio ate high pee ure We compress elon «0 taform ie texture and intensify ts coloe For some Ashes, we compres to diffrent proteins rogeher (ham and mackerel. or insene: oF chicken high nd afi or ing or yet of rai and acon). not wo change hee shape and veut but to enn hat they bond ‘ighly as posible For tems sich a «dle pice of Fisk we we les pre that we os brie the f you cooking. a med lin cod you dont want tw fate tou. Tes ls essential ep in mind thatthe fod must cod when it packs ad sealed “This is for moe importa than mos people rest, In fic, Bruno Goutal aye that here cin che in som vide technique, the mumber one ror they mak no chilling the fod property before i's sealed. The prob lem i clas the Cet that in vy foe Pressure siuatons, water vaporizes aa ler emperatue. To demonstate, Gousale will pat one pan of oll water and another one of ‘warm water in vac chamber, When the chamber lcd andthe acu eed the waem water wil begin boi igoeously dnote inode, a the water vapors ‘When war fodis putin vacua the same sagocition wll happen, deying i out and fing it tere “Ti is why, in aon to sey es, when ne of these recipes cal For apiece of mest to be eat befce it cooked su vide, fase evo ele fir eel Bw, oF ei ie sig F you dol ave he sebigentor apne tlle she meet to cool wane bergen an cb uel hors shied before puking-telow 6 (4287) x he moa ina Ziploc bag and TEMPERATURE “The temperate sed in sou vide coking see alas below that of simmering water which skour 87° 99 (90" te 200°F) “The ghar rompers we we lost with ‘out exception i 8§C (185), and this i cacsinely for vegetables Plant cll walls ae weakened at his empeacre, ad othe eg table becomes rent Meat and fh cooking emperatures are more ved. Fh promis general are dl- cated the dante ae congulat—that cook—atabout GC (19°F) lamer than mest proteins da For met the ele hein t0 con stata thus qucee out water and besome ‘ough a about 60°C (40°F) At about 70°C 607), the meat wll have squerred out much ofits moire butthe cel ate easier co pull pare andthe ellen wil have beg rue int gelatin (eligi the ery tender mest we expect fom a bas). Cooking 4 raise cu sous ide at 655 (050°) for longer ine, however sere 29 break down the collage without aquerng out al he ues, eaking in mest ha is reer at that fom a trains brie but more vot Fortenderbreass of plane we se 62°C (UR), bur we cook the thighs ae 6g (Ura F). We cook delicate fish, such a Se Peters (Jahn Don) 2 60°C (40) Thee femperiins ae basic guns, oc hard-and-fis ales. They may vay ighly depending on how the fod i to be std before and sfir egos iw the bg. chicken east hat wil be seated air is removed fron the bag maybe cooked ata ler temper ature than a best that wil simply be cook xe, the lcd served TIME ta convention cocking, timing cam be thought of in ters nat of ow log a cook something, br of how log befie you mst pcs cooking. And this wick in conven Vion cooking. because youre well sing ‘enperauesarhighe than the one you wast the food to reach, IFyate sting 2 med lon of bet for eample, you may want che meena temperate to each only 544°C (01) ue yout cooking fat abou 200°C Goo"). Thar meane hat once che bef iat jn the righ emmperature the window ote out have ogee cut f the heat very small Further complicating mater i the fc dae the empertute ofthe fod wil ie ast ey deco iro ofthe ea, ast called erjoer cooking In soe vide cooking however nce the fd aches he dsited ner empraute, ‘esa eer, ven whe et the wate And there eno carver ooking when the Food ie semaved from the water. “Thi doce not ean, however thatthe window of eine for perfectly cooked food is uolimied the mea spends roo long 0 the ea, he color won't change ut the te tare af will—so i may lok beawly rare bt the tate aed texture wll ot be what ost expect Iie met that it se yet over cooked Four Basic TECHNIQUES Newer peo toes ge orn arson, STORAGE od vaca packed for orae wil las con siderably longer in the refgeator tha Food thats simply wrapped im pli, wll lo hold up beserin he eae The main son isthe remoral of oxygen rm the fod ent ronment. Lack of exygen grey rece the ectivy of many bacteria that cae apa. In he caer, the vara saing beep the food from losing mostae to these prevent ing Geer burn, And in some cae, pegs meet tbl with je gras, artichoke, and frit like apples and. pears. vanmi-seaking can prevent diesoration from oxidation, Cooking and then storing food soe vide at the aonal benefit chat sere no chance for recontamination fom stborne ceria 8 cutting bod, cooks hands, and cha ill Funes dey spol Stocing fod hie way ie also neater al ane, andi lps 1 ni tun the shape of the oo. COMPRESSION CCompresion it our newest sous vide ech- nique, discovered (you will by Mask Hopper, chef de eusine at Bouchow in Las ‘Vega. We te it alma exusively to change lhe este oF fod peti porous rie tach as pineapple aed fon. Comprenon, hick gues gest de! of pres cn transform 4 vis, ighe bite of frit ino & ence, almost meaty one. We abo compress encumber eer and rmatoes ‘A secondary eft of compesion is what righe be called “seing?—in oer word, sing he peste to bring fod w a specie shape and inant 0th when i brie cooked, the food sts in that shape but remains cow inide, Ie can then be iid sing noes cooking met without losing, sw lape, We sr the shape of erent Fh nd neat this wap in of rabbit wrapped in bacon, a piece of delice St. Pees fa (ohn Dory) a sued squab bres. Bee ee eee eee eee ee eee eee eee ee eee eee eee eee See eteeee eo eee Se eee eee eee cer MARINATION ‘Wein food sou vide bec i inst, convenient, and efficent. Vacuum sealing lf dost speed wp marinating, bu when ‘the gape elening the scam, se ‘marinade can penne the food, enh ‘es efets, From 4 restaurant standpoine the ono of pac aforded by marinating fod in seed plate bag. ther than in plac container, is cepecally wef. The sad package prevents che posibiliy of the ma rade aesdenal spilling and ial makes it ay to rise the marinade ingeds sound the food COOKING ‘The most vable and versie ous vide technique & of couse, cooking “The three ain pes of sa vide coking ae shore cooking @ mit), lang-tme coking (pt sever da) and Fe nd egetable cooking Food tha nary ender-moet fh, fr cxample—segures a elitvaly hort sine in the water bath ite a 10 minutes or 5 nds pill served immediately Meas tae xc tough seguir a long tne wo break dove the comectve datas and become tender Some seats that ate bad my fll bere short and lng tine cooking in tha they are ‘cooked hrugh bt donot become nelingly tender (he chicken thighs in Chestnut Stuffed Four Story Hills Fae Chicken wit Celery ane Honey Poached Cranberries page 114 fresampe). Vegetable peer equire ‘eteen 30 and 90 minutes They are amas slays cooked a 56 (8S) “Those are the genera ules, bu dove ae coun yarations and points of Fines at ‘he ipsa fallow wll demoetet, SAFETY “The safer ies of concen in eooklag sous vide are diffe from hove cool at we to addresing in more conventional forms of oking. Thee not complied atthe ery import ro understand and respect: if ve ignore ther the pote pathogens an be considerbly more dangerous than nother sinations bec oftheir opportuni mul ply to dengeroat lee “The ectere weet omc wih sous vide cooking re Snel hii bor ia cl ©1577 an Lier Al ofthese tectericn lve inthe anaerobic envieonment ‘of aacmm-packe bg andi they do ein the ag and it spun warn wate they con ruaiply to dargrou level. The longer bat sin ae in what is rofered to the “danger sone"—temperturs beeen 44° and 60°C Got and 40°F)=the aster they mulply and the mene dangerous they become. Bates ‘gw with excepoal sped at tapers erwoen about 40 and 0'C (100s 120), ailing in mb 20 090 ints In onder to pevent our bagged food from turning into bacteria bombs, we need 0 understand how bacterin work and how 0 rea the food i ays hat vee grow ‘Ass gone ral, eet eh ys clas hag tibiae More bacteria are fund on the exter of ‘ood, Some mabe expo inka rou ments (Goch at ambge, wich aufice brcteri is spread through the meni) and 4 (Gdmale foe the infected ovarie of chickens can containae the nero of) Alef contaminated fod ie at oo, baci canbe brnght ine the Rod. Generally me retrietbacteri growth by hecpng the food titer cold or oe sn by listing ee ine ie spendin he wa teperne denger aon, eco moet baci xi nb on He ete ior ofthe food, only the exterior ot the eae fhe fod, st each emperaare st hich the bacteria killed, But keepin nd that food thar ona harmes number of ects om is ft ou at er temper ‘hose bacteria can mip rapidly to bare levels oreo ooking food > 60° x9 832°C (40! w 180) docset mean youve billed al the bacteria Thousands to millions of bac: teria amex on ny gen pec of fod, aed prey wecaped cooking tines nd pe atures bill most but not secesty all bacterial you ge wp steriiaion em esate an tne, Soll safety mesures ae Ise on setts and oxds and cannot be ironclad guar, A special woe shout meats: Away uy the freshest mest posible, and cook ss soon shes buying cas you can All ea i by df nition, comaminated, and the longer fs efore being sled In sous vide bag and ‘cocked the mor bacteria can gon —and the roce bacteria youl end up with f you coo and hold it at dange-one temperate cdma bate, of which these are more tha 2.000 Kinds, ate more lass chan 2 oer food-borne pathogen. Sn pole soning sickens 14 millon people each yea cording tothe Center foe Dies Conta and ke 600 of thowe who ate patina erable oils (the very od the ery young, nd those with compromised immune se vem). Fortanately, mose people recover without tetinent, Salma bctesa Hive in the intestine of anil ad hoa ed can contaminate ay ra fod. They are a serious problem in the chicken indy and saw chicken spd epg are among the Foods most commonly cnying the Batra Sema are the mot het rsa bacteria, x0 master te protect food fom them wil ly take cae of most other pathogen well Cleridae Bln i diferent om the she pathogens we worty about and poten tilly the most dangerous. The bacterium produces spores that can le donne ia si where Cl i commonly found. The spores, which ae extremely heart, 10 in anaerobic or low-saygen enon ments (uch a8 a can oF ajar a drycured sausage even a baked posta wrapped in fe and allowed a cool—or a vaca packed bag). The bts produce a neurotoxin hat icexremely dangerous bu thtiskilledahigh temperatures (80°C [176 FD). About 100 people yearn hi country are made ik by olin, maey fom home-canned foods “The main reason the dangers posed by bow tim are deen from those of ther bacteria, esis the potency of the boa toxin is the fet hat, with the exception of canning sme cooking doen ined snseobic en ronment Bat se ie eae fd by nena vont, li of pier omer he al ie all O57 H7 is a serous betes that a be foun on meats and veges ais respon for abou sin deaths year Like Snare ives in the estes of animals ane people Tt most prvalet in ground moat and geen leafy egtbles srs baceiu peesent in sil and wae i particily harm to pregnae women, Known t gr sgl in lobe ding eta special concer fod precaing plant, and 1 produces such as hot dogs and other procsaed meats ar of theca fii Si Unlike the other bacreria dic here, Lao can pow vee Arce temperate Bue by keeping fod cold and chlng cooked Fd 3 uicly ax possible, you can draicly reduce is rte of growth Thi is why when ooking ous vie, cooked food tht ill be efigeae in the ag for Ue ne chilled thwougy and completely in a ice th “The taximum time food seal sus vide ca sfly remain inthe bagi danger one sempecstres (his inlades cooking te if coking below 60°C [40D is hours Bar the sooner cooked food is out ofthe danger one (meaning the faster it chilled) the beet rom book seer anda spl stnd point Thisafeny window does give you plenty eee. Yu ca ily cook ot dng ate rempectures and you in leave foe out to ret fora half hour os aftr cooking 0 that ican abot the cooking juices log a you hen cil i completely sui asposi- Me ia an ice bath A any vacmun-pacted poten ther coed enn haben i the Ange mane fo hous lng, erect mend that it be discarded “o strate Fd bch de mre len hae oti bd ity adn he ite ob ei ek Sef ed vit eb seed ly or uy on gle eo ath ihn 4 oars of eneringdaerson tempers, tee ely At pet se sous chef Rory Hermann dee: oped a protcal for all of our retaurants called a HAACP plan ea was accepted by the New York City Heath Deparment for sting the ety of fod cooked and red ‘out vide While this protaca address vir ally every ingredient and-method. the restaurant se, identfing risks and wae to onl th tle, the canton deserts re the ons just mentioned. Appin, all ed mast be hep tefrigernted at ¥C GBF) oF below unl is sealed. Then it should he cooked and xed chilled toa temperate oF FC GFF) or below in an ice bith and ‘eigen What constitutes an ice bath? A minim F590 parent ie, but more ce than that it ‘eter, An ce bath snot big pot of water ‘ith some ic oatinginit—anicebh shoal appear be mostly ce I there's any duke take the temperate ofthe ee bath 0 make sure ith 0 (34 F) Andi a good ides anja the Lng evry 20 olen to proven a “dead zone” of warm water from surrounding ie Add mors ice 000 athe best of heb ha mtd some ofthe ie Adding salt the sce wll further edie the temperature ‘Alice fod tas been cooked sous vide sd ill, how long wl keep? Fron he the fod child and inthe cooler some bacterin sich ses, an contin 1 OW lsd spore cam porminate 2 $C (4) Complicating the station is the fact hat cooler vary widely the temperate they ‘an hold. sn within any cooler here are colt spots and warm spots We recommend that yo check your cooler frequently to make sire ax leas par of it mina «romper of 38 (GPF) or lower, and aways hep food that hasbeen seld sos vide in dhe oldest prt of the cooker. Fyne concerned about out cole’ temperate, you ny wa Horse food packed in ice ‘Asa general if yore not ging 1 se ‘the fod within dys freee it ili she plac) "There may be ines when yu hve eso to be concerned bout fod you've sede set vide—say youve accidentally eft package ot oF your power went of 2 the food hat been in dhe gat room rerpertre forse ral ours. a these cate, we recommend that yondicard dhe fo Safety considerations are bitin ll the serps hee a be sre te Slow the rept lordly with regard to heating and ching food thit i+ sealed tous vide. Generally ‘ough fod pathogens ae something to be sare of and wo understand ot oft. Kno whee they maybe prec, haow the cond ons in which hey Nourh, and prevent those condivons IW OUR KITCHENS Sou vide ws aoa etacens itso persive 10 be completly itegrnted ne he ytem, From the baile ctator tank per sce fh station to the Bogllon tak that resides in the storeroam of the Boucon Ken in as Vegas for cooking large quates of benied shore nibs and other such cts Chamber sealers immersion esters, wate Glo aks, nd plastic hag areal part of our echo “The French Laundry, perv, Bouchon and Ad Hockichen al ave numerous immersion cirulators, Beaute moat ate parable, they «an move from sain to sation or on busy seskends out of the kitchen altogether anywhere the water tank, often tll Lexan conan, wl ft. Weustally ave at eartone esignted immersion circulator on the Line dasing service nd nei the pp are. ach ch ing the castors sponsible foe the itm he she pts ito i IF hat tem resus bie cooking, the cheF sets ener IF their mqutes many hours oF 2 couple of «syste cme of emoval ped onthe tank Becase vegetables ae rally cooked a the same temperts, fen any age of ier 2 wl bein these tk “The cielo canbe uscd in viel any omainer they nea. Some contains ae large enough tha ehey seque wo cculaas ro esate een heating ofthe water. Use your ommon sense here Tinks tha wil be kept running for alongtine canbe covered to make the hes spo elicen and imi espe inl, thor an appliance tha standin foracicultoe when all he restareBeingsaed oc or ge quant Kes generically refered to a “combi” combination oven—and ie tes dey heat or steam het oa combination both. This ven can be et opie rm pevtue, andthe seam hest ea at jst a8 ‘finaly a water Rated wih an immersion IN THE HOME KITCHEN “Therecpes that allow ae the exact ones sed by the chen at The French Lande and at pera, Theyve been writen far the profes lon ktchen, ram one chet vo anode No modifications have been made t scommo date cooks preparing thom at home, even though me of hem certainly can be done a home with the ight squipent. The recipes ave boon developed though tl and etor nd, of course caus epetitions, They've Iron tested asng chamber vacoum packers ae ine ion cults. They inal dhe ful ange of echiqaes we ase in the rese rants, not jst sous vie, but he sou ve spplcato ae the newest and moet eacing oft techni. “The eecipes here are for the finished Aids a teed at per se and The French Lanny Fach dish compris several compo eats. some ofthese components a quick and npe, others equ long cooking me co invoied preparation, Weve organized he recipes component by component cither than nthe sequential oe chronlagel order more familiar to the home cook, because resturant kchene wil have diffrent chefs ecpacing visio componcnes of 2 single lsh This wh, othe yield oF compo nent may he more thin you wil ned for shat specified “That sal onc you get ned thi forma, vehope oil find tual Many ofthe com nents of dich cane prepated ahead of time, oF if ore cooking with ether people the vations component can eal be dived sp. This ow restarant ktchens operate and ican be an ellen trategy a ome— coking together ie something we encourge! Ann ew make thee dah fr moe satisy lings manageable for home cooks “Another way this book dirs fom other American cookbooks that the quai for roi ingteentsn these ies ae given in metric weights A dg sce that goer he tooth ofa gram an important tchen rol sencall, andi sw ust fortis book. We ‘weigh move ingredients to ensure acircy. Even igus are generally manarod by weit, not volumes epe night ll fr 100 gam of water, fr ineanee Ghoneves inthe base recipes ating on age 25, sone age gun tes of liquids ae lied it es). We hope soul find hat learning rouse mete mesure ment, a vosly more logis and consent system tha American imperil weight ae mess actly make cooking cir A FEW ADDITIONAL TIPS TO KEEP IN MIND AS YOU COOK FROM THIS BOOK ‘Read the preceding pages (26°58) clone, taking paral note of the sein on safe Sf rues melved with sous vie cooking ace deen fom those for ei- el Rr cooking, They et iia andernand oll an thy arevery important Plesse adhere to fey recommendations eupulohy 1. Read the recipe through before you begin ‘Agia, cack dich as boon broken down inc i componcas, ane cach component has its own recipe. Use this format to ‘ree yourown game plan when preparing complete dh, Note hat more than one ingreien can go into the wate bath ite em ine hey opin the we temperate Ingres must be thoroughly child and cold uoughoue before they ate seia-packed (ee re 3). 4 Her should not core in diet coat ‘wih food havc pct Ding so wal cane some ret of the red to tke fox more flavor than others. For this seteon, we cll beibe snd orien feod-sfe pli wrap (we cll is ache) before pursing them in the main by (Ge page 265), Always bg fod ina single ye to ensure ven cooking Many nt mon, of thee ips el for inuding sme sot of igi in the bg, fix, stock, oF a dary product All thse recipes have Been ested sing a chamber ‘acum packer We dont recommend you attempt recipes that nla ud the Ing let you tne carbs pce Ting in thee ips it bed oH cold vacuum-packed food being sub merged in water hae is at the proper tempera, The heating cement andthe stasity of water being heated will deve tine the length of poheting tne, bata 4 text of one of or cru, 1008 horfor 1. es (gallons) of water to 0 om 10°C (0°) 19 60°C (40) and cours each 85°C (1857), OF cours you can start with ho tap ater. hea sete he soe, co dace the te. Ove socks donot have add sk. I'you se wing tock that ha been ted, take that int csdection no you seen, {Cerin components of dishes are pre pared in larger proportions than are need in the individual recipe. There are a mytid of wes for any of thse. ‘When eipes al forthe use ofa chins, 8 ine-re,chncin (chi fo im Tree), not a perfor one Few plating imeractions ace given in these recipes, bec plating in restaurants is fen upto the che preparing the dah and wl be defined as much by his ober per sonal any the food The size ad shape ofthe plate sted abo determines how 3 dish wil be pled VEGETABLES AND FRUITS SOUS VIDE HAS DRAMATICALLY CHANGED THE WAY WE COOK VEGETABLES thas epoca ther egus but tom the standart Hore prevent dn, and converience is daatal let. Fis and oreo aay is fer A caret ‘cold sus we has ry pte a it ek leet tinea = oud coning anernman athe forse! compat Heh tempera thot cause bowing. That nites erable utp single ay alin a bg bgt carats, more nusees thai oul bef the arate ware cooked caren the cart ne permed wth rams ut ave as ane hn ort the coking meu (Thee of ire wit vegabes) Tho caret come tf "We ag at the prt ohtf donna, thst you want fic thamin sme wy th ighe-hot ecu by binging ested oes tether yang ham is ery uchan pec wei unity nesta cack. tense anc shapes uated. ou ean cok vette stat thy become tener tout the posbty ts hy wil otek obits rage rl apart. Theis esc vs then he vegeta mst be sad bel bg reheated: bulb feel coke sus vier cramp shes sn The gnteness he ht sporty skentarous with veal, ich ecm inreasay delat as they cok) ‘rida, apa nate can fle fst 2nd vegetables nas westuggetn een rho rane wl bgt darn a ‘hemi ace water orn at that il reais hens responce Selig settles coe vie oases fice ot itn Th canbe inal whan ou dr ‘wrt tout the veal oa igh eto ace erirnren Bt if ou do wnt aes emi eat techn. theyre ey oie atthe ‘este comes cut the ba ‘te sby tock age amount ol estates so ‘hat ay ara oat 3 manta ‘They easy cooked cose and stored without The nl vegelobles we dor cook sous vie ae teen veztbes—thylesethor vid Calor wend ode be Taye best cack 28g pf vias Eoin ey sats ate ce Bye Barc page 25) Bt fr alte others sus vies 8 petitive MARINATED TOY BOX TOMATOEFS WITH COMPRESSED CUCUM TOASTED BRIOCHE, BER-RED ONION RELISH AND DIANE ST. CLAIRE BUTTER 23 yams granted sugar 140 gas water 140 gas aud sar {gga rad wie vont neh eacuber sles ne inpon rs dh washe ecqe o campeessing tomalotin yu We thot of when the fit orate, heii te Irlaatersto eae he the tga canter fhe eget ‘Ad we thug ih be bet count the trata aka ag by Ing em wth speinss. We acwrachdthemin asim sup nse wth bas. a the es we etary Na ony i te tort ets but the favor sero charged ano wa thought wing cle whl arose You con eth techie with ary or sot daenting rte dah Ard you can ast he snedes 3 wel This isa savor cous, et we could ncreme ie secre he emotes th some bch foot nthe extodnr and ede ter mde by Det Cia er An Verner Untnstely Dane Yes bul ou cn as ny i 35 ams uz hopped bast Hig-austy usa bts suchas Four Yeti ses ich page 262. For THe oMiow neLisi: Combine the oni, ugar and water ina saucepan, bing a simmer, and cook fr abou 15 minutes The onions shoud be tender Add the vinegar and cook for another 20 mites, or fl here nly ery sal amount fii ee. Cok. hen sans to the efigerntor chil (Gat the cucumber into inch eng. Tin the sid uy to aguare of the edges then ca even rectangles bout inch wide by cnc hick fiom ca pis (3 pr sd) cu only antl you reach the sed, nd di

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