L I F E I N A B Y SS I N I A :

B E I N G NOTE S C O LLE C T E D D U RI N G

’
H R E E Y EA R S R ES I D E N C E A N D TRA VELS I N T H AT

C O U N TRY .

By MA N S F I E L D g A R KYN s .

S E C ON D E D I TI ON , WI TH A NE W I N TR OD UC TI ON .

MAP AN D I LLU S T RAT IO NS .

S LOND O N

JO H N M U R R AY ,
A LB E MA R L E STR E ET .

The right Qf Tra mla t io n i : n un /e d .

 PR EFACE .

H o pmo in th is diti o n to give th e B riti sh re ad e r a to l e ra bly

e

a ccura t e id e a o f A by ssin i a a n d th e A by ssi n i an s ,

I h av e
o mitt e d such p o rti o n s o f th e fo rm e r o n e as did n o t dire ctly

b e a r o n t h e subj e ct a ddin g in th e I n tro ductio n a sk e tch o f

,

th e p o litica l ch an ge s which h a ve o ccurre d si n c e I l e ft t h e

co un t ry I n o the r re sp e ct s I have adhe re d t o th e te xt as

.
,

it was o rigin a lly writt en .

I n pro p e r n ame s an d n ativ e wo rd s I hav e e n d e a v o ure d

,

t o fo ll o w th e re c o mme n da ti o n o f th e R o yal Ge o gra phic a l

So ci e ty by u s i n g th e C o n tin e n ta l ra th e r th an th e En gli sh
,

pro n u n cia ti o n o f th e v o we l s Th e guttura ls which I e xpre ss

.
,

—
by kh an d gh are th e fo rme r like th e Ge rman zc/z th e
'

latte r so me thin g like th e F re n ch a ccen t gr ay pro n un

c ia t i o n o f r. I ca n n o t e xpla in the m b e tte r t o o n e n o t
a cqu a i n t e d with Ori e n t a l l an guage s
.

F ebr ua ry, 1 868.

 C O N TE N TS .

I n t r oducti on . P age xv

C HA PTE R I .

Le a ve S nez —A n A ra b boa t—F ell ow pa ssengerr —M r bert h —S elf i n ui ted

ue st s—b l ade of l ea rn i ng A ra bi c The S hm f Moha mmed H ash i m
g
H um pun k —A ra b rea ma ns h ip Vol ca n ic rema i n s of th e R ed S ea
—F i re on boa rd o ur vessel —My p owder in da nger —F o r tun a te d e
' —Moh a mmeda n l egen d r Ori gi n of jea l o up —A da m w i th th e
l i v e r a uce t

b ody of A bel —yos! h the firs t cl och ma her—E l ‘

O ch e
ue Th e B e n:

H Th e Turb and the A ra b —C a tch i ng turtl es —C om

—
acra n
—R —My
—A
f eedi n g P f o rt o Ya mbo a bba The h oly con n t r
y d ragoni a n
S a i d —A r ri v e of yedd a ro b: a: co mpa n i on : I

C HA PTE R II .

y ed d a T h e B r i t i s h Co n s ul —E ci s ter n to w n s N a t i v e d rers — T h e F etta h

el K h ey r C oc h r o ach er S o ub h i—n M V ign on — N a t i v e d ue l s — b l ad —

e

of t r ea t i ng d oc to r s — —
F i sh Masrdwa A ngel o th e yew — Th e Xa i rn agci m
Th e cl i ma te of Ma n dal a —I ts i n h a bita n ts a n d h o us es —My h os t —I V) !
cort mn e i n th e E art I I

C HA PTE R I I I .

’
Th e N a i b : g uzd e-tax —jlI /
o n cul l ou —A way s ide
-
ba th —S n ah es —E l ph
e a n t:
—
Li o n : 22

C HA PTE R I V .

Appea ra n ce of th e con n ay —S en sa t i o ns in a t r opi ca l cl i ma te —A d uen t ure

w i th a v iper A i l a t — —G '
a me —B o a r -
sta lhi ng —H ot s
p ri n gs [Va tura l
w a r m b a th 29

C HA PTE R V .

A i la t—B read ma hi ng Th e gue st s ch a mber , a n d i t: occu

"
I n h a bi ta n ts of -

n ts — B ed oui n me rch a n t: A p ers ev er i n m r a uder G a ri o u

pa g a r eg s

h a bi t i f
s th e p p
eo l e— M od e rn peculi a r i ti es of f e edi ng A Al as /em u a he
'

— 1[ode of
. bur i a l Afr i ca n rerur rect i on zlrt: 34
 C H A PTE R VI .

A su mmon s to A i aquor
’ —P r ov id i n
g su
pp er —P ra ct i ce o f tr u
e p
s o r ts men
’
a n tdj f m s d ifi
'

S h ooti ng i n A by ss i n ia Th e K ta a A spor ts a n -

cul ci es — - —
B oa r sta l ki ng R a ri ty of unprov oked a achs on ma n by w i l d
tt -

—
bea sts—Ma n ea ti ng tigers S ol i ta ry eleph a n ts—R en con tres w i th w i ld
-

boa rs P age 39

C H A PTE R VI I .

A i l a t to K i aquo r Gui nea f m l —D gficul tzes of th e roa d Tra vel l i ng

— — —
ba refoot D esert punch R ecipe fo r pi cn i c brea d A t ra vell er s di n n e r )

A dv i ce as to ea ti ng a n d d ri n ki ng Th e pipe a n essen ti a l i n th e
a s —
E t A n g n or i a n t g uia
’
e S h o h o v ill a
g es — L a n u
g ga e of va r i o us

t mbes—H a bi ts of th e S h oh os Th ei r h ospi tal i ty Th ei r costume con

'

t ra sted w i th th a t of th e A by ssi n ia n s—A rr i v a l a t K ia quo r 45

C HA PTE R VI I I .

S ta r t f or AdouaH a mas ay n —R ic h n es s f
o t h e s oi l C u r se of ci v i l
—
w a r A ddy tYillci w i ta Th e quol quol—A n escape Wretch ed a cco mmo
da ti on Ma iy a S h a h a K ouddofel assy Grea t i n h ospi ta li ty B ey t
Ma ri a m—A missi on a ry —A ddi H a i H a i l Curi osity of th e people
—
A fr a cas A by ssi n i a n courage Th e M a reb A sto rm A rr i va l a t — —
A doua 55

C H A PTE R IX .

Ad o ua —Appea r a n ce of th e to wn —F a s h i on a ble a musemen t—A r ri v a l of

barggage Custom-h ouse a n n oy a n ce—S ta rt o n a v is i t to Oubzl —B et en

t zo n s on th e r oa d —A ddy N ef —D as ev ra B er bery —A v ery unpro tected

jenz a l e — D ifi c ul t t ra v ell i n
g
— A p ri es t
’
s dw e ll i ng Ch ur ch p r ope r ty
—0u h ost s h o n esty a n d good n a ture—A ddy A rgoud—A n un cani
r
’

jb r t a b l e n ig h t— M o un t H o r a ma t I n a ccess i bl e r ocks— A r r i v a l a t th e

63

C H A PTE R X .

H o wz ay n Th e ba l der b bba —]l! i se ra ble dwel li ng s Th ei r co n s t ruc t i on

Our i n t r oducti o n del ay ed D ifi cul ty of pr ocuri ng food Vi si t o rs
My n eg r o serv a n t cla i med as a sla ve a n d en trapped—A presen t—An
A by s si n i a n ca mp Th e Vice; oy and h is ofi cers —S uppl i es
f ro m O ubi
D 7 i n hmg -h o r n s
 C ON TE N TS . ix

C H APTE R XI .

Vi s it to Oub i —N at i ve pl t i o ur pp Oubi
’
a lace
—P p
e as a n r es on a ea ra nce s
’
Cer emo n ies i n troductio n Oubi s sta te a n d a pp
l dgi g—
on ea ra nce resen ts

Vi si t to weld I nch ael—I I is h ospita li ty —A figh t for a o n eturn R

— Oubi s gener os i ty —
’
N efas My a a opted son s
’
to A ddy D i spute w i th th e
’
N eg aa i r as r es umed Our r ecepti on of h i s sol di ers —H e a ea ls
pp to Oubi

P ra ct i ce o f th e w o men o n a pp ea r a n ce f
o a
fig h t —A f y
r o w i t h t h e

so ld i e rs—A br a v e w a rr io r Tra n qui l li ty restored—P repa r a t io n s for

v i si ti n g A di obd—P romis ed
pe n l s M es
'

sr —
s P l owden a n d B ell
. Page 7 7

C H A PTE R XII .

S ta r t for A ddy Abo—B uil di ngs on the r oad —F ea tures of the coun t ry

Th e A by ss i n ia n h o r n bi ll A x um R emn a n ts of former ci vi li z a
’
t io n Th e obeli sh a n d sy ca mo re Th e town ta n h Th e H igh P mest s
i n v i tat i o n —A dis ta n t rela ti o n —N a t i v e w i n e a n d spi rits—F aci l i ti es fo r
g r ape cult ure
-
M eag r e vi n ta e
g P ri mi t iv e st i ll s D w el li ngs T h ei r

35

C HA PTE R XI II .

D e a rture
p f mro A x u m — S a n ctua ries A b—
y ssi n ia n r oad s A n a ti v e
’
t ra v el l er s max i m Th e gifts of N a ture n ot apprecia ted ti l l n eeded
A dv ice to th e sa tia ted—Appea ra n ce of th e coun try Th e Vi l lage of
—
” i n d I njud ic io us pr ac tice of ma ny travel le rs Civ i lity th e better
f

p y
o l i c — I l l us t ra t i o n of t h i s t h eo ry
— A bo un teo us h os t O ub i
’
s T esh a r

Gov er n men t mode of obta i n i ng pay men t Tort ure of i ts debtors a n d

— I n s ta n ce of Oubi s cun n i ng—I mpolicy of ex tor ti o n
’
oth er pr i s on er s

Our journ ey resumed Ch a nge of scen ery

C H A PTE R X IV .

Bota ny and o r n i th o l o
gy Un h ea l thy v a lle s
y
—B ea ut i es f
o th e pl a i n

Mo n key s Th ei r employ me n ts
Th e Cy n oceph a l i Ta ct ics on the i r
r a s—Lea der s a n d scouts—S agac i ty —D w el l i ngs Th e leopa rd th ei r
f y
o

r ea tes t en emy —F o r mi da bl e a n ta o n rifts—S o met i mes a tt ach w o men

g g
Th ei r cl e ver n ess n ot en ti rely depen den t o n i n sti n ct—A n ecdote—I n s ta n e e
of a tta c h m en t— P ow er s of mi m i c ry
— l ll o d e of ca t ur i n
p g t h e nk T h e
’
s ho w ma n s s to ry I n gen i o us b i te ca tch i ng -
A curi o us remedy A
ca utio n to moth er s —
Ma i Q uo llma P oli ten ess of th e ch ief—I I is h ouse
h o ld I 00
 C H APTE R XV .

A rough r oa d —N e e i ty c ss f
o tra vel l i ng ba refoot —F e tili ty r the di st ric t —A
wa r f wi t —A f th e s old ie ry —A ddd The secr d a ry bi rd
o
—F
y n n o a n ces o ro -

Curi os i g/ f
o the people a te i f a par q of
'
F ren ch t r a vel lers Page I I 3

C H A PTE R XV I .

A i to Merratch, Ch zef ofA dd y A bo —N otes o m

f y y s ta at A d db ro —B l essi n
g
of a sw a r m of bees Vi si t ors—R eputa tio n of E uropea ns fi r coi n i n
g
—
PVelda Georgi e H i s h n ow ledge of fire a r ms I n duceme n ts to —
— ma i n at
-
re

A dddro Sta rt for Roha ba i ta A ba rga i n —

A lo ng sta i rcase — II 8

C HAPTE R XV I I .

M ue mon ths ’
stay at R oha ba ita —Love f
o —
N a ture Descript i on of th e
p r ovi n ce P r od u cti o ns Th e i n h a bi ta n ts Th e H ap” Va l ley My —
s ta n d i n w i th h n a t iv es —I joi n i n th ei r pursui ts Th i h red o th e
g t e e r a t f
—
A mh b ra D is appea ra n ce of a pa rty of th e latter Wa ddy I I i l, th e

Oubi
’
s dem a n ds —R l e eased a nd r esto red —
power I I is pover g a n d
to r

g en ero —E
si t
y x tre me sca rcit
y of pr ovi s on s—A s u ply a n d v i s i t
i
p f ro m
Ob b b
si u —A s n n ua l co n fl agr a ti o n s Th e B a rea A perfect decepti o n —
S h ifts f
or food —B en e i t s o
f f semi -s ta rv a t io n Ugly woun d s a n d speedy
r2 5

C H A PTE R XV I I I .

Course of th e Ma reb Th e Gobo pl a i n —F oun t of St .

! oh n —A byssi n i a n
hy d ropa thy D evout pa tien ts P r otectio n of th e gua r d i a n sa i n t
Th e E v il Ey e Th e [Va reb a t diferen t seas on s F i sh a bun da n t Th e —
g a r m out E —
mig r an t c ro co d il es — A by ss i n i a n m o d e qffzsh i n
g
—A d ubi o us
’

G a me O i h l
fi sh i n
gp a rty r ea t va r i ety o f g rn t o ogy I
3 6

C HA PTE R XIX .

B elief i n o men s —I t efi
s cts o n a w a
pa r r- ty —
s cS
o u t s d couti n —A
r ess g
’

a n d i mplemen s t — s enjoy men ts

Hi —
F oo d of S t yoh n th e B apti st
— —
.

M g tly p
h u t i o L io n s D i fi culty of getti ng a t th em Th e rifle s
’

—
r eca n s

p l a ce a t n igh t A p a rty of c o w a r d s— F rui t le ss pur s ui t— A by s

'

si n i a n s

co urageo us i n proporti o n as th ey a r e w ell fi d a n d cl oth ed —D emo r a l zlz zng

ten dency of n at iona l s la very Th e B a rea Thei r cun n i ng a n d agi li ty

Th ei r mode of at t h — E as i ly repulsed by j!r mn ess Th ei r practi ce
—
ac
’
wh en pursued A neca ota co n cern i ng them Th ei r mode of passi ng th e
'

n igh t previ ous to a n a ttach R en con t res wi th the m R eflect i o n s

 C ON TE N TS . xi

C H APTER XX
i w— —
.

A bouna Tederos —M g ifi t S t

’
Theodore s a bode H is mi ra cles
—Aby
c en ve
—R
a n .

’
och w a ter -ta n h ssi n ia n pr ies ts - S t Mi chael s E ve at A ddy
.

—P ro —
mpt measures Serio us co nsequen ce s of th e fire Gra n deur of the
spec t ac l e— A ttemfl to blo w up a to wn The id i ot Mag h ova i — A h un t i ng
’
A n octur n a l a la r m B hi h ld A i o Merr a tch s
pa r g/
j
u a l o -s
n s ie s t

C HA PTE R XX I .

Moti ves fo r g d
v i si t i n
A d y Abo Th e B id e les Th e B a rea G a bi s las t
’

—
—
ca mpa ign ag a i n st th e B a rea F a il ure of the Apha N egous a n d othe r
ch kjs — S upe n or ity f
o
'

th e B a r ea as w a rr io rs A da m Ch our ry A ti —
1 76

C H APTE R XX I I .

Al a n ne rs and Cus toms

C H A PTE R XX I I I .

P e rso n a l pp
a ea r a n ce , dress,

C H APTE R XX I V .

C H APTE R XXV .

D ea th s an d F un e ra ls

C H A PTE R XXV I .

C H A PTE R XXV I I .

S upers tit i on s r ela ti ng to perso n s

possess ed of e
th D ev i l

C H A PTE R XX V I I I .

4 n ecdotes i l l us t r a ti ve o f ch a rac e , 61 c
t r °
.
 C ON TE N TS .

CH A PTE R XX I X .

P age 3 5 7

C H A PTE R XXX .

Cl i ma te —P hy si c
. a l cons titutio n . —D i seases, modes of cure, é
’
c. ( we .

C HA PTE R XXX I .

C H A PTE R XXX I I .

yo ur n q / to th e Tacca zy

C HA PTE R XXX I I I .

y ourn ey to Cafla
 I N TR O D U C TI O N .

A R O U GH k e tch o f th e n at ura l fe at ure s a n d p o litical hi sto ry

s

o f A by ss i n ia might p e rha p s b e in te re sti n g a t t h e pre se n t mo

me n t C hri s ti an Abyss in ia may b e c o n sid e re d a s divid e d

—
.

in to N o rth e rn a n d So ut h e rn th e l a tt e r be in g th e ki n gd o m
o f Sh o a th e fo rme r th e pa rt t o which thi s v o lu me re fe r s a n d
,

t o whic h t h e e xpe diti o n i s go i n g N o rthe rn A byssi n i a i s

.
,

strictly s p e a ki n g an i n l an d c o u n t ry ; t h e gr e a t e r p o rti o n o f
,

it p a rt o f a n i mme n se ta bl e lan d in man y pl ace s mo u n ta in o u s

-
, ,

b ut with m o un tai n s sprin gi n g as it we re fro m t h e t o p o f o n e

la rge da t to pp e d mo u n ta i n A d o ua an d A xu m th e mo d e rn
.
,

a n d a n ci e n t ca pita l s o f Ti gre se e m t o st a n d o n a pla i n with

, ,

hills ri s in g fro m it ye t th e ir h e ights ab o v e th e l e v e l o f th e

,

se a are o v e r 6 0 0 0 an d 7 0 0 0 fe e t re s p e ctive ly Go n d ar .
,

ca pita l o f t h e A mhara c o u n try s ta n d s so me wh a t high e r th an

,

A xum a n d t h e l a k e Tza n a (o r D e mb e a) i s a t a b o ut t h e
,

sa me a lti t ud e a s Ad o u a .

Thi s e l e va te d tabl e i s i n te rse cte d by d e e p vall e ys so me ,

like re n ts in th e gro un d with a l mo st p e rp e n dicula r ro cky

,

sid e s ; o th e rs t h e wo rk o f t h e t o rre n t s which fo r a ge s h a v e

to rn thro ugh th e m Th e rive r M a re b in Tigre a n d th e

.
,

Tac ca z y which fo rms th e b o u n da ry b e twe e n tha t co u n try a n d

Amhara are t h e chi e f vall e ys in N o rth e rn A byssin i a
, Th e .

mo u n ta i n s o f Simye n spri n g fro m th e we st b an k o f t h e l a tt e r ,

the ir highe st p e a k ri si n g fe e t ab o v e t h e l e ve l o f th e
s ea an d a b o ut fro m t h e n e a re r p o rti o n s o f t h e riv e r
b ed . Pa tche s o f sn o w o r hail lie o n i t s summit duri n g th e
g re a te r p a rt i f n o t t h e w h o l e o f t h e y e a r .

Th e ge n e ra l pl at e au dro p s fro m i t s e a ste rn e dge se ve ra l

, ,

tho u san d fe e t t o t h e n arro w strip o f lo w la n d lyi n g b e twe e n

it an d t h e R e d Se a o n th e n o rth t o wa rd th e wid e ba si n o f
,

t h e N il e o n t h e we s t a n d s o uth t o tha t o f t h e Aba i o r B lu e

, ,

N il e. It will re adily b e u n d e rst o o d tha t with such va ri e t y ,

o f alti tud e a c o u n try lyi n g b e twe e n 1 0 a n d 1 5 d e gre e s o f

,
xv i I N TR OD UC TI ON .

no rth l atitud e mu st e n j o y al mo st e ve ry va ri e ty o f climat e .

Th e fir th o rn an d bla ckb e rry a b o u n d o n t h e mo u n ta i n s o f

, ,

Simye n a n d Wo gge ra a n d o n th e high pl a i n s o f Go j a m t o

,
'
t h e so uth F l e a s t o o a re pl e n ti ful in t h e first n a me d di strict
.
, ,
-
.

Th e middl e ran ge wo uld gro w a l mo st e ve ry ki n d o f Euro p e an

fruit o r gra i n I n th e fe w pl a c e s wh e re th e vin e i s cultiva t e d
.

it thrive s luxurian tly Wild o liv e s o ran ges l e mo n s an d

.
, , ,

va ri o u s kin d s o f st o n e fruit a re fre qu e n t I n th e n e ighb o ur

, .

h 00 d o f l a ke Tz an a rice an d t h e suga r can e n o w gro w wild -

,

p o ssibly ha vin g b e e n cultiva te d th e re in fo rme r time s I n digo .

h a s b e e n tri e d with succ e ss ; c o tto n o f v e ry fin e qua lity is

gro wn i n ma n y p a rts a l a rge qu an tity o f c o ffe e is e xp o rt e d
fro m th e n e ighb o uri n g Ga ll a c o u n tri e s t o t h e v a ri o u s p o rt s
o f t h e R e d Se a wh e n ce n o d o ubt a c o n sid e ra bl e p o rti o n o f
, , ,

I n t h e m o re
”
it fin d s i ts way t o Euro p e a s re a l M o cha .

t e mp e rat e altitud e s th e mi mo sa j e ssami n e a n d C a p e pla n ts , ,

bl o o m i n pro fu si o n whil e th e mo n k e y bre a d—

, tre e tama ri n d -
, ,

b a mb o o an d va ri o u s o rchida ce o u s plan t s luxuri at e i n th e

,

ho tho u se clima t e o f th e l o we r v a ll e ys It i s the sa me in .

p o i n t o f sa lubrity An e quabl e tho ugh wa rm te mpe ratul e

.
'

with fin e a i r mak e s t h e middl e an d highe r di strict s a s h e a lthy

,

as n e e d b e whil e a t c e rt a i n se a so n s o f t h e ye a r n o thi n g
,

c o uld b e mo re d e a dly th a n t h e l o we st o n e s Th e u n h e a lthy .

se a so n i s o bvi o u sly a ft e r th e ra i n s which fa ll i n t h e high

, , ,

l an d s b e twe e n Jun e an d Septe mb e r a n d o n th e se a b o a rd ,

a b o ut two mo n th s e a rli e r Tro pica l ra in is n o t lik e o ur

.

Ap ril sh o we rs i n o n e h o ur as much will fa ll a s i n th r e e o f

a n E n gli sh thun d e r s t o rm Th e e a rth ca n n o t a b so rb it fa st
-
.

e n o ugh i n a fe w mi n ute s th e ti n y rippli n g stre am b e c o m e s

a t o rr e n t t e a ri n g d o wn t h e mo u n ta i n s id e c a rryi n g w ith it
, ,

i ts qu o ta o f wha t h as ma d e a n d ma k e s Egypt Sc o re s o f .

such t o rre n t s fa ll si multa n e o u sly i n t o th e ir ca rri e r o n t h e

table la n d I hav e cro sse d th e A ssa m n e a r Ad o ua in t h e

-
.
, ,

mo rn i n g wh e n it wa s b a re ly d e e p e n o u gh t o we t th e so l e s o f
my fe e t an d go n e to se e it i n th e a fte rn o o n wh e n it was
,

ro a rin g d o wn ma n y fe e t d e e p a n d carryi n g a wa y ca ttl e

, , ,

h aysta ck s an d re ma i n s o f hut s which it h a d d e stro y e d a t

, ,

s o me high e r p a rt o f i t s c o urse wh e re it h a d o v e rflo we d i t s

 I N TR O D UC TI ON . xv i i

b an ks Th e se se c o n da ry stre ams i n the ir turn ru sh i n t o th e

.

mai n va ll e ys ea ch o f which thu s c o ll e ct s th e wate rsh e d o f a

,

ve ry la rge tra ct o f co u n try I n man y pla ce s th e M are b an d

.

Tac ca z y a re i n th e dry se aso n me re ly rivul e t s sca rc e ly

, , ,

t rickl in g b e twe e n wid e b e lt s o f sa n d b o rd e re d by thick ,

ju n gl e Wh e n t h e sudd en supply o f wa te r re a che s th e m th e y

.

o v e rfl o w b o th i n a bro a d re d fl o o d
, Th e ra i n s e n din g th e y .
,

as ra p idly re turn t o the ir fo rme r b o un d s a n d a ran k ve ge ta ,

ti o n s prin gs up i n t h e h o t strea m fro m th e de ca yi n g re mai n s

’
o f las t y e ar s gro wth Th e same thi n g o ccurs e ve n with o ut
.
,

t h e in u n da ti o n in t h e n o rth e rn a n d we st e rn pl a in s o f t h e
,

l o w e r l e v e l s an d n o thi n g c a n b e mo re rapidly fa tal th an thi s

,

p o i so n o u s mal ari a fro m fe rme n ti n g ve ge table ma tt e r It is .

t o b e h o p e d th a t o ur tro o p s will n o t h ave much t o d o with

s uch pl a c e s i n such se a so n s A fe w n ights wo uld se n d o n e
.

ha lf t h e fo rce t o h o spita l a n d th e n o n th e skill o f En gli sh

,

d o cto rs wo uld d e p e n d h o w man y r e co v e re d fro m a di se as e

which u n d e r n a tiv e t re a tme n t i s n e a rly a l wa ys mo rta l
, , .

A s I ha ve sa id N o rth e rn A by ssi n i a may b e c o n sid e r e d a s

—
,

d ivi d e d by t e riv e r Ta c c y i n t o two c o u n t ri e s Tigréa n d

h a z

A mb i ra ; th o ugh strictly sp e aki n g th e se are o n ly t h e n a m e s

, ,

o f t wo o f t h e ma n y p ro v i n c e s i n t o which b o th c o u n tri e s

are divid e d B ut th e p e o pl e e a s t o f t h e riv e r di ffe r i n la n

.

gu a ge a n d t o a c o n sid e ra bl e e xt e n t i n dre ss ma n n e rs a n d
, , ,

c u s t o m s fro m th o se we s t o f it ; th e fo r me r sp e a ki n g Ti gré
, ,

wh ich n e a e m
rly r e bl e
s s t h e a n ci e n t Ethi o pic o Gir z — th e
la tt e r A mharic which i s e ith e r a ve ry much c o rrupte d di a
,

l e ct o f Ethi o pic o r a di s tin ct lan guage wi th a go o d man y

,

wo rds i n tro duc e d fro m it Th e who l e c o u n try ha vi n g in la t e

.

time s b e e n ru le d by A mhara s th e irs h a s b e c o me th e o fficia l

,

an d w ritt e n l a n guag e ; it i s sp o k e n a l s o in Sh o a o r So uth e rn ,

Abyss i n i a . Th e re are rac e s o f Ago ws b o th in Tigré a n d

AmhAra w h o se l an gua ge s a re di sti n ct fro m e ith e r a n d fro m
,

e a ch o th e r .

N o rth e rn Aby ssi n ia is b o u n d e d o n th e n o rth an d w e st by

Se n n ar a n d N ubia n o w u n it e d i n to t h e Egypti an P a sh a lik
,

o f So ud a n a n d by su n dry s e mi i n d e p e n d e n t ra c e s
, On th e
-
.

so uth a n d s o uth e a s t by va ri o us Ga ll a tri b e s wh o s e p a ra t e it

-
,

b
xvi i i I N TR OD UC TI ON .

fro m Sh o a an d fro m
pa rt o f th e R e d Se a Th e st rip o f la n d .

b e t we e n th e n o rth e ast fro n ti e r an d th e se a to wa rd s M a ssawa

-
,

An n e sle y B a y & c an d th e mo u n ta i n sl o p e s d e sc e n di n g t o
, .
,

it a re o ccupi e d by H a b h a b s B e d o ui n s Sh o h o s Talta l s an d
, , , , ,

o th e r p a s to ral trib e s The se a re fo r th e mo st pa rt M o ham

.

me da n s virtually i n d e p e n d e n t b o th o f t h e Abyssin i an s an d
, ,

o f th e Turk s t o wh o m t h e i sl an d o f M a ssawa b e l o n g s ; a

qu e sti o n abl e so rt o f i n d e p e n de n ce o win g chi e fly I imagi n e , , ,

t o n e ith e r Turk n o r Abyssi n i an ca rin g t o e n cro a ch o n th e

d e b at e abl e l an d b e twe e n the m Tra v e ll e rs an d th e e xp e di
.

ti o n will have mo st t o d o with t h e Sh o h o s wh o o ccupy th e ,

prin cip al pa sse s an d ac t a s guid e s The y a re a t o l e ra bly .

tru st wo rthy an d v e ry i n o ffe n sive race o f h e rd sme n To th o se .

wh o are curi o u s i n th e ma tt er so me d e ta il s o f t h e hi sto ry o f

,
’
Abyssi n i a t o B ruc e s ti me may b e fo un d i n h i s Tra ve l s c o n
, ,

ti n n e d t o my ti me i n my fo r me r e diti o n I sha ll li mit myse l f

, .

he re t o such a sk e tch a s ma y i n a fe w wo rd s give th e re a de r

a ro ugh n o ti o n o f wh o Th eodor e is a n d o f h o w dyn as ti e s fa ll ,

an d ri se i n h i s c o u n t ry The re i s I b e li e ve so me so rt o f
.
, ,

fo u n d a ti o n fo r t h e tra diti o n th a t Ma qu e da Q u e e n o f Sh e b a , ,

re turn in g fro m h e r vi sit t o So lo mo n bro ught with h e r a so n ,

by h im n a me d Me n e le k fr o m wh o m d e sc e n d e d th e E m
,

p e ro rs o f A byssi n i a B e thi s . a s it m a y th e s e E m p e r o r s ,

rul e d d es p o tic a lly till th e e a rly p a rt o f t h e p re se n t c e n t ury ,

a n d b o re a s th e ir d e vic e a li o n h o ldi n g a cro ss a n d fo r th e i r ,

mo tto Th e li o n o f th e trib e o f Jud a h h a th pre va il e d

”
.

A b o ut th a t d a t e th e ir p o we r e n d e d Y a so us s o n o f Yo h a n n e s
.
, ,

u n abl e t o ch e ck th e p e rp e tu a l i n cursi o n s o f t h e wa rlike

Wo ll o Ga ll a s a lli e d hi mse l f w ith th e m by ma rryi n g o n e o f
,

th e ir pri n c e sse s F ro m thi s ma rri age which wa s di s tas te ful

.
,

t o t h e maj o rity o f h i s C hri s ti a n subj e ct s wa s b o rn t h e E m ,

p e ro r J o a s ,
a v e ry w e a k m a n a n d s o s tro n gly a tta ch e d t o t h e

ra c e o f h i s M o h a mme d a n m o th e r th a t h e n o t o n ly su rr o u n d e d
,

hi mse l f with Ga ll a fa v o urit e s but ma d e t h e i r l a n guage t h e

,

l a n gu a ge o f th e C o urt H i s subj e ct s re vo ltin g h e ca ll e d t o

.
,

h i s a i d t h e w e ll k n o wn R a s Micha e l Suhul Go ve rn o r o f
-
,

Tigre wh o fi rst sub du e d t h e re b e l s a n d th e n se t a bo ut t o ge t

,

rid o f th e Ga lla s wh o h ad b e e n th e ca use o f t h e re b e lli o n .

xx I N TR OD UC TI ON

s p e a re d Gabro Micha e l who m h e fo un d wo u n d e d by a

mu ske t ball So Sab agard i s rul e d o v e r t h e lan d
-
. H i s so n .

in law D ejat ch Oubi o f Si mye n o n th e Amhara sid e o f th e

-
,

Ta c ca z y so me ti me s fo ught with h im a ga i n st th e th e n Ras

,

M a ri é so me time s with th e R a s again st h i s fa th e r in law ,

- -
.

I n th e l a tt e r c o mbin a ti o n a t t h e battl e fo ught D e c e mb e r , ,

1 8 3 0 a t Ma i I slama i o n th e Ta cca z y Sab agard i s was utt e rly

, , ,

ro ut e d take n pri so n e r a n d murd e re d in co ld bl o o d it i s

, , ,
’
sa id by O ub i s o wn h a n d Tha t was a te rribl e day : th e .

b o n e s o f th e fugitive Tigrean s me rcil e ssly sla ughte re d by ,

t h e sa va ge Ga ll a h o rs e m e n we re vi sibl e a s far as two o r ,

’
th re e d ays ma rch fro m t h e ba ttle fie ld wh e n I p asse d tha t -
,
’
way fi fte e n ye a rs l a t e r Sa b aga rdi s me mo ry i s still re ve re d
.

by th e Tigre p e o pl e a s th e b e st o f the ir ki n gs an d bra ve st

,

o f th e ir wa rri o r s On e A ito B ara ky di spute d th e succ e s si o n

.

with W e ld I n c h a e l so n o f th e l a t e ki n g an d i n vit e d Oubi t o

, ,

a ssi st h im Oubi did so succ e ssfully a n d the n t o o k po sse s

.
,

si o n o f t h e c o u n try fo r hi ms e l f We ld I n ch ae l a n d h is .

bro th e r C arsai aga i n ro se we re a ga i n d e fe ate d submitt e d , , ,

an d ,
pro mi si n g fe a lty re ce ive d th e go v e rn me n t o f c e rta in
,

l arge pro vi n ce s fro m the i r victo ri o u s bro the r i n law Th e - -

.

e ld e r w a s kill e d i n a p e tty di sturb a n c e th e y o un ge r C arsa i , ,

’
ma rryi n g O ub i s d a ughte r b e ca me h i s so n in law a s we ll a s ,
- -

bro th e r i n law but fo r all thi s d o ubl e b o n d c o uld n o t

- -
, , ,

re ma in qui e t Aga i n ri sin g i n re b e llio n h e was aga in b e a t e n

.
,
-

a n d fle d t o h i s mo u n ta i n fo rt w h e n c e Oubi u n a bl e t o dra w -
, ,

h i m by fo rc e d e c o ye d h im by a so l e mn o a th pro mi si n g h i m
, ,

s a fe ty a n d lib e rty — re c e ive d h im kin dly a n d the n th re w h im ,

i n t o pri so n H e e sca p e d b ut wa s re tak e n an d wa s still i n

.
, ,

b o n d s whe n I l e ft th e c o u n t ry P oss i bly h e may b e th e .

D eja t ch C a ssa i o r C arsai n o w sp o k e n o f a s ta ki n g p a rt ,

a ga i n st Th e o d o re So i n my ti m e R a s A li rul e d th e
.
, ,

co u n try we st o f th e Ta c ca z y e xce pt th e p ro vi n c e s o f ,

Simye n Walka i t Wa ld a b b a & c which b e l o n ge d by i n

, , ,
.
,

h e rita n c e to D ejatc h Oubi wh o a lso by right o f c o n qu e s t ,

re ign e d o ve r Tigre e a st o f tha t riv e r ; a n d tho ugh a t time s

, ,

p ayi n g th e R a s a so rt o f p e pp e rc o rn ackn o wl e dgme n t wa s ,

virtu ally in d e p e n d e n t o f a n d o fte n a t war w ith h im It ,

.
 I N TR OD UC TI ON . xx i

mu st b e u n d e rs t o o d, h o we ve r, t ha t th e who l e co u n try was

‘

a l wa y s mo re o r l e ss i n a chro n ic s ta t e o f wa r I f th e t wo .

ru li n g prin c e s we re n o t a t war with e a ch o th e r th e y we re ,

e ith e r fighti n g th e ir n e ighb o urs o r qu e lli n g re b e l li o n a mo n g

th e ir o wn subj e cts ; an d b e sid e the se gre a t e r ma tt e rs th e

, ,

pre va ilin g fe ud al syste m le d t o c o n sta n t mi n o r a ffa irs be twe e n

t h e s e mi i n d e p e n d e n t C hi e ftai n s o f va ri o u s d e gre e s
-
B o th .

Tigre an d Amhara we re di vid e d a mo n g a fe w gre a t chie fs ,

mo st o f wh o m b o re th e titl e o f D eja sm at ch se co n d o n ly to ,

tha t o f R a s The se la rge pro vi n ce s we re subdivide d in t o

.

c o un ti e s he ld by i n fe ri o r C hi e fta in s u n d e r t h e gr ea t tena n ts
, ,

i n capi te a n d th e se a ga in in to p a ri sh e s rul e d by sub chi e fs

,
-
.

So ma tt e rs re ma i n e d till t wo o r thre e ye a rs a ft e r I l e ft
t h e c o u n try wh e n th e re a pp e a re d o n th e s tag e a t fi rst i n a
, ,

v e ry min o r p a rt o n e C a ssa i o r C a rsa i n o co n n e xi o n with

, ,

h im o f th e sa m e n a me I h a ve b e fo re me n ti o n e d H e w as .

b o rn i n Kuara o n e o f th e we ste r nmo st pro vin c e s o f N o rth

,

e rn A by ssi n i a an d wa s so n o f a man o f n o e m in e n c e o r
,

w e a lth th o ugh cl ai mi n g li n e a l d e sc e n t fro m t h e imp e ri al

,
’ ’
li n e o f So l o mo n A ft e r h i s fa th e r s d e a th o ur h e ro s
.
,

wi d o w e d mo th e r ga i n e d h e r liv e lih o o d by c o ll e cti n g an d

s e ll i n g K o uss o t h e n a tive re m e dy fo r t h e n a ti o n a l t a p e wo rm
,
-
,

whil e h e pick e d up h i s o n t h e ro a d s a s a brigan d Aft e r t h e .

ma n y ups a n d d o wn s o f such a li fe — a t ti me s l e a d e r o f a
,

ba n d o f six ty o r e ighty me n a t o the r time s hidi n g a l o n e h e

, ,
-

a cquir e d such c e l e brity th a t a l a rg e b o dy o f me n j o i n e d h im .

F ro m b riga n d h e turn e d re b e l a n d b e a t th e tro o p s which ,

t h e E m pre ss Me n in
’
R a s A li s mo th e r se n t a ga i n st h im
, , .

’
To s e ttl e ma tt e rs pl e a san tly A li s da ught e r wa s giv e n h im t o
,

wi fe : thi s h o we v e r ma d e ve ry littl e di ffe re n c e

, ,
Th e same .

pla y tha t h a s b e e n so o fte n act e d i n A byssi n ia wa s aga i n

a ct e d. Th e sto ry o f a llia n c e s by ma rri a ge o f a fte r wa rs o f , ,

fal se truc e s bro ke n e n gage me n t s a n d vict o rs ru n n i n g away

, ,

fro m th e va n qui sh e d w o uld with me re a lt e ra ti o n o f n a me s

, ,

a n d d a t e s a pply t o o n e h e ro a s w e ll a s t o a n o th e r
,
.

I n 1 8 5 1 Me n i n a tta ck e d h im l e a di n g h e r t ro o p s in p e rs o n
, ,

a n d a t firs t b e a t h i m but h e r chi e fs n o t sh ari n g th e ir mis ,

’ ’
t ress s c o ura ge fo ught it o ut s o b a dly th a t vict o ry s tid e a n d
,
xx ii I N TR OD UC TI ON .

’
h er a rm y s ta ils turn e d an d l e ft h er a priso n e r R as Ali
, .
,

n o t d a ri n g t o fight h im a gre e d th a t h e sh o uld h o ld t h e pro

,

vi n ce s h e h a d c o n que re d as fie fs u n d e r th e C ro wn with th e
, ,

titl e o f D eja tch Carsai H e ga ve th e Empre ss h e r lib e rty ;

.

but two ye a rs a ft e r Al i pro cla ime d h im a re be l an d a pp o in te d ,

a n o th e r ma n t o h i s go ve rn me n t C arsai re si st e d an d a gre a t
.
,

ba ttl e wa s fo ught in th e pro vi n c e o f D e mb e a whe re Al i , ,

co mpl e te ly b e ate n so ught sa fe ty i n flight ; an d thu s e n d e d

,

t h e Ga ll a dyn asty which h a d b e e n supre me in We s t e rn

,

Abyssi n i a sin ce t h e d ays o f R a s Go uxa C arsa i n e xt c o n .

qu e re d t h e se mi i n d e pe n d e n t pro vin ce o f Go j am ta ki n g it s
-

chi e f B irro u Go sh o pri so n e r a n d th e n marche d agai n st my

, , ,

o l d fri e n d Oubi wh o r e c e ive d h i m i n h is n a tiv e mo un ta in s

,

o f Simye n Oubi fo ught we ll ; but o ld an d we ak was

.
, ,

o blige d t o r e s t a wh i l e i n a h o ll o w n e a r t h e b a ttl e fie l d wh e re -
, ,
’
di sagr e e ably surpri s e d by a pa rty o f C arsa i s tro o p s h e wa s ,

t ak en priso n e r an d ca rri e d o ff in triu mph t o t h e camp ; o n

which h i s a rmy l o si n g h e a rt a ge n e ra l p an ic e n su e d
, , Thu s .

th e wh o l e o f Tigre o r Ea st N o rth e rn A by ssi n i a fe ll i n to t h e

, ,
’ ’
c o n qu e ro r s han d s b e sid e s Simye n an d Oub i s o th e r pro
,

vi n ce s we st o f th e Tac ca z y w ith h i s mo un ta i n fo rt s an d ,
-

tre a sure s I n sh o rt with h i s fo rme r c o n qu e sts C arsa i h ad

.
, ,

gai n e d by thi s vict o ry th e wh o l e o f N o rt h e rn A byssi n i a .

O n t h e sth o f F e bru a ry 1 8 5 5 h e wa s cro wn e d Th eodo ros

, , ,

K i n g o f Ki n gs Emp e ro r o f Ethi o pi a by t h e Ab o un o r
, ,

C o ptic B i sh o p o f A byssi n i a I ha v e se e n it sta t e d tha t h e

.

a ssu me d thi s n a me fro m a pi o u s fe e li n g tha t God h a d g i ven

h im t h e vict o ry .F ro m o th e r st o ri e s I h a v e h e a rd o f h i m ,

s uch fe e li n g w o uld b e quit e c o n si st e n t wi t h h i s ch a ra ct e r ;

but it is o dd tha t n o r e ce n t tra v e ll e r se e ms t o ha v e h e a rd

t h e o l d tra diti o n a l pro ph e cy I o fte n h e a rd l o n g b e fo re C a rsa i ,

—
wa s dre a me d o f viz th a t a ma n n ame d Th e o d o re sh o uld
.
,

re u n it e th e o ld e mpire a n d re sto re i t s gl o ri e s F o r o bvi o u s .

re a so n s C a rsa i wi sh e d t o b e i n th e min d s o f h i s ign o ra n t

, ,

a n d sup e r stiti o u s subj e ct s t h e Go d s e n t Th e o d o re

, an d

i n d e e d h e p artly fulfill e d th e pro ph e cy fo r in turn h e c o n ,

qu e re d th e Ga lla trib e s t o t h e so uth an d th e kin gd o m o f

Sh o a . P o ssibly h e might ha v e d o n e a gre a t d e a l to wa rd s
,
 I N TR OD UC TI ON . xx ii i

th e o th e r pa rt ; fo r un d o ubte dly h e i s a man o f e xtra o rdi n ary

e n e rgy an d ta l e n t fo r a n A by ssi n i a n N o thi n g ca n b e tte r .

e vi n c e h is mo ra l c o ura ge than t h e wa y in which h e to o k

in th e u sua lly di ffi cult ma tt e r o f
”
t h e bull by t h e h o rn s ,

d e stro yi n g a l o n g e xi sti n g fe uda l sys te m I n ste a d o f cur

-
.

t yi n g fa vo ur with t h e gre a t chi e fs a s a l mo st an y o th e r ,

a dv e n ture r wo uld h a v e d o n e h e t o o k th e m an d put th e m i n

,

pri so n ; po lite ly te llin g the m tha t h e h ad n o i n t e n ti o n t o

in co n v e n ie n ce th e m but me re ly t o ke e p th e m sa fe till h is
,

go ve rn me n t wa s firmly e st abli she d I n th e ir ste ad b e ap .

p o in t e d fro m h is o wn pro ve d fo ll o we rs milita ry co mman d e rs

, ,

o v e r t h e tro o p s i n th e va ri o u s pro vin ce s wi th fixe d ran k a n d , ,

p ayin g th e m fro m time to time a s a c o mme n ce me n t o f re gu

lar pa y . Th e tro o p s t o o re c e iv e d pay an d we re fo rc e d t o
, ,
.

purchase th e ir suppli e s fro m th e p e a san try i n ste a d o f plun

d e rin g th e m H e in tro duce d so me so rt o f di sciplin e in to
.

h i s a rmy which h e pro p o se d t o a rm e n tire ly with mu ske t s

,
.

H e co n te mpl a t e d di sarmi n g th e p e a sa n try ; did a wa y with

th e ba rb a ro u s syst e m o f h an din g h o micid e s o v e r t o th e
t e n de r me rci e s o f th e fa mily o f th e sl ain sub stituti n g ,

pub lic e xe cuti o n re li e ve d th e co u n try fro m man y v e xa ti o u s

i mp o st s ; ab o li sh e d th e slav e tra d e ; a n d e ven se t th e e x
-

a m pl e i n h i s o wn p e rso n a n d c o urt o f d e c e n cy in ma n n e rs

a n d c o n v e rs a ti o n an d o f we a ri n g s o me thi n g like civili se d

,

ga rme n ts in li e u o f th e fashi o n a bl e se mi n udity Such -

.

r e fo rms o rigi n a t e d by an Abyssin i an wo uld s e e m ma rve ll o u s ,

i f n o t i mp o ssibl e to an y o n e wh o kn e w A by ssin i a n ign o

,

ran c e a n d o b sti n a cy I hav e the m o n th e auth o rity o f my

.

p o o r fri e n d Wa lte r Pl o wd e n th e n C o n sul fo r A by ssi n i a I

, .

firml y b e li e v e h is state me n t s ; but I kn o w h o w bright me n

a pp e a r by c o n tras t an d h o w e n thu si astic we are a pt t o b e
,

a bo ut a h e r o . Th e o d o re i s d e scrib e d as o f striki n g a pp e a r
an c e o f gre a t e n e rgy b o th me n t a l a n d phy sica l
, o f in do

mita b le c o u ra ge m o ra l an d p e rso n a l re ma rkably a gre e a bl e

,

an d p o lit e w h e n i n g o o d hu mo ur ; u n tiri n g in bu si n e s s ;

tho ro ughly in d e p e n d e n t o f a dvi se rs ; g e n e ro u s t o e x c e ss ;

usually m e rci ful t o th e van qui sh e d a n d c o urte o u s t o t h e ,

humbl e s t o f h i s subj e cts B ut aga in st thi s strin g o f virtu e s we

.
xx iv I N TR OD UC TI ON .

ha ve t o se t — in an ge r ; un sp ari n g in pu n i shme n t
t e rribl e
,

pro ud an d o b sti n at e in al l ma tt e rs t o uchi n g h is divi n e

a n d ki n gly right s a n d fa n a tic i n r e ligi o n
, C o mbi n i n g t h e .

t wo l as t n a me d p o i n t s o f cha ra cte r th o ugh b e p e rmitt e d

-
,

fo re ig n e rs t o wo rship afte r th e ir o wn ways h e fo rba d e th e m ,

t o t e a ch i n si sti n g th at h e h a d a righ t t o d e cid e tha t h i s o w n

,

s ubj e ct s sh o uld fo ll o w n o t e n e t s but th o se o f t h e C o ptic

C hu rch an d o rd e ri n g such as h a d a d o pt e d R o man C a th o

,

l ic i sm t o r e ca n t A s fo r t h e M o h amm e d a n s h e thre a t e n e d
.

th e m th at so so o n a s h e sh o uld ha v e subdu e d th e ir Gal la

,

c o re ligi o n i st s h e w o uld giv e th e m t h e a lt e rn a tiv e o f ba pti sm

-
,

o r quitti n g th e c o un t ry
'

H o w fa r h e pro gre ss e d with th e se an d o th e r r e fo rms I ,

can n o t say I gn o ran ce an d ambiti o n se e m t o ha ve pro

.

duc e d th e ir u su al re sults i n h im ; an d wh e n I h e a r o f h i s
wild vi s i o n s o f c o n qu e ri n g Egypt an d e v e n t h e H o ly Lan d ,

c o upl e d with ro man tic a spirati o n s fo r ma t rimo n i a l allia n c e

with a n augu st me mbe r o f o ur R o ya l F a mily I am fo rcibly ,

re min d e d o f a c o n fid en c e o n ce i mp arte d t o me by my pa r
t ic ular fri e n d D e ja t c h Sh eto u t o t h e e ffe ct tha t h i s re sp e cte d
,
’
p a ren t Oubi h a d s e ri o u s i n te n ti o n s o f a fe w we e k s ra zzi a
i n to F ran c e th e re we re so ma n y glass b o ttl e s a n d o th e r
,
“

n ic e thi n g s i n th a t c o un try — a n d a m le d t o th e b e li e f th a t

fri e n d Th e o d o re i s o n ly a v e ry sup e ri o r ma n for a n A by s

si n i a n .

I a m co n ti n ua lly e xami n e d an d re e xa mi n e d a s t o w ha t -

o ught t o h a ve b e e n d o n e t o lib e ra t e t h e B riti sh c a ptiv e s ;

a sk e d t o pro ph e sy t h e re sult o f t h e pre s e n t e x p e diti o n h ow

l o n g it wi ll la st & c & c ; a n d upbra id e d with n o t ha vi n g
,
.
, .

writt e n t o th e Ti m e s t o te ll t h e wo rld a ll a b o ut it It i s .

u se l e ss t o a n swe r tha t I k n o w n o mo r e tha n a n y o n e e l se I .

could s a y th a t th e B riti sh public n e e d n o t b e a l a rme d a b o ut

Guin e a wo rm o n th e highl a n d s a n d I sa id so
-
So fa r a s my
,
.

P o o r P l o w d e n , wh e n h e w ro te th i s ch ara c te ri s ti c o f h i m, l i tt l e
t h o ugh t th a t , t o a v e n ge h is ow n m urde r, w h i ch o ccurre d sh o rt ly a ft e r,
Th eo d o re wo uld pro v e th e jus t i ce o f h i s o pi n i o n , b y sl augh t e ri n g 1 5 00
me n of h is “
o wn fa m ily, as h e d e sc rib e d th e m i n a le t te r t o H er

Maje s ty .
 I N TR OD UC TI ON . xx v

kn o wl e dge o f th e c o u n try e xte n de d it app e are d t o me tha t ,

Go v e rn men t h ad ve ry d e ta il e d an d accura te in fo rma tio n .

Th e re w e re hu n dre d s o f ge n tl e me n wh o ha vi n g mad e th e ,

to ur o f t h e N ile o r vi site d t h e fall s o f N ia gara o r se rve d i n

, ,

C hin a o r t h e We st I n di e s we r e fully co mp e te n t t o a dvi se

, ,

an d c o rr e ct mi s ta k e s Th e B riti sh public was in fo rme d tha t

.
,

amo n g ma n y o t h e r gro s s blu n d e rs Go v e rn me n t wa s a bo ut t o

,

t ry a c o stly e xp e ri me n t i n t h e ma tte r o f mul e s th a t n o o n e

e ve r h e ard o f th o se an i mal s b e i n g e mpl o ye d a s be as t s o f

burd e n in t h e tro pics ; tha t n o o n e wh o kn e w t h e styl e

o f c o un try wo uld dre am o f such a thi n g a n d tha t ca me l s ,

we re t h e o n ly fit a n d pro p e r a n ima l s B e sid e a pre judic e .

th a t n a tive s ge n e ra lly fin d o ut wha t suits the ir c o u n try b e st

’
thre e ye a rs with t h e mule s in A by ssi n ia an d fo ur ye a rs ve ry ,

in ti ma te acquain tan c e with ca me l s in th e d e se rts to th e

n o rth o f tha t c o u n try h av e le d me t o b e li e v e th a t th e re are
,

reaso n s wh y th e A byssi n ian s sh o uld s tick to the ir mul e s t h e ,

D e se rt Arabs to th e ir ca me l s an d t h e Ox A ra b s o n th e swampy
,

sh o res o f t h e Whi te N il e t o th e ir o x e n So far a s I co ul d se e .

,

it s truck me fo rcibly tha t the re we re abl e me n a t B o mbay

an d A d e n wh o h ad me an s o f which th e y se e me d t o h a ve
,

we ll a v a il e d th e mse lv e s o f o bta in i n g b e tt e r i n fo rma ti o n th a n

,

I o r an y o n e e l se co ul d o ffe r P e o pl e a re v e ry fo n d o f c ri ti
.

cis in g ; but ge n e ra lly Sp e aki n g th e re i s so me sma ll p o in t

, ,

which th e critic h as o ve rl o o k e d o r d o e s n o t u n d e rsta n d F o r

, .

i n s ta n ce i f I we re a sk e d whe th e r I th o ught th e ca ptive s

,

might h a ve b e e n re d e e me d fo r a c o mp a ra tive ly small sum

o f m o n e y y e a rs ago I sh o uld sa y tha t c e rta i n ly th e y might
, ,

ha v e b e e n B ut i f a sk e d whe the r a n y man livi n g se n t o ut

.
,

by t h e B riti sh G o ve rn me n t with o rd e rs wha t h e wa s t o d o

an d w as n o t t o d o c o uld h a v e man a g e d it I sh o uld sa y th a t
, ,

d e ci d e dly h e c o uld n o t G o v e rn me n t i s ha mp e re d by public

.

fe e li n g a n d tra diti o n a l p o licy which are a ll ve ry w e ll wh e n

,

de a li n g with civiliz e d n a ti o n s but B riti sh Li o n a lwa ys

act s m o r e o r l e s s lik e a d o n k e y wh e n h e h as t o d o w ith
’
pe o ple wh o a re n o t i n th e ha bit o f studyi n g Va t te l H e ‘
.

se n d s e mb a ssi e s a n d c o n sul s a n d ma k e s t re a ti e s a n d go e s
, ,

thro ugh a ll th e fo rmulae o f sta t e diplo ma cy with a hal f n ak e d -

n i ge r w h o
g i n s o
,
l e mn c o u n cil w ith h i s m i n i st e rs wo uld fin d ,
xx v i I N TR O D UC TI ON .

u n utt e ra bl e a mu se me n t i n l e tt in g o ff a b ox o f lucife r s —F irst

Lo rd o f th e Tr e a sury vyi n g with Lo rd C ha n ce ll o r wh o s ho uld
Sup e ri o r a s o ur Th e o d o re ma y b e h o w
”
ha v e n e xt go .
,

much might have b e e n d o n e with a fe w do z e n gilt C hri stmas

’
cra cke rs with bull s e ye s i n sid e ! Tha t i s a fte r C han ce llo r
,
-
,

o f t h e Exch e qu e r a n d P ri n cip a l Se cre ta ry o f Sta t e fo r Wa r

h a d pull e d a n d e a t e n e n o ugh t o c o n vi n c e h i s I mp e ria l

M aj e sty tha t n o d a n ge r fro m me dicin e o r wi t c h cra f ”

wa s t o b e a ppre h e n d e d B riti sh e n vo y mu st d e a l with n igge r

.

a s i f h e w e re d e a li n g with a n E n gli sh ma n H e ma y n o t d e al .

a s b e t we e n m a n a n d ma n but a s b e t we e n G o v e rn me n t a n d
,

Go v e rn me n t It w o uld b e i n co n si ste n t with t h e dign ity o f

.

B riti sh Li o n th a t h is e n v o y sh o uld si t a s a n a tiv e w o uld fo r , ,

a n h o ur p e rh a p s w ith o ut c o m i n g t o t h e p o i n t e xch a n gi n g
, ,

e mpty c o mpli me n t s with th e So v e re ign t o wh o m h e wa s a c o r e

dit e d ca re fully watchi n g e ve ry ch an ge o f h i s c o un te n a n c e

, ,

o r t o n e o f v o ic e a n d fl a tt e ri n g o r bullyin g h im a s h e i n
,

s t in c tive ly fe lt w o uld b e mo re lik e ly t o p ro duc e th e d e s ir e d

re sult H e mu st a ct with t h e same fe e li n g tha t l e d a v e ry

.

ga ll an t o ffic e r an d tra ve ll e r o f fo rme r d ay s t o b o a st th a t e ve n ,

i n t h e ce n tre o f A frica h e h a d a lwa ys a pp e are d i n t h e c o s

tu me o f a B riti sh o ffic e r an d ge n tl e ma n o f th e p e ri o d which , ,

a s it wa s th e n w o rn v e ry tight fit t i n g mu st h a v e b e e n pe c u
-
,

l ia rly u n suita bl e H e i s i n struct e d by h i s Go v e rn m e n t t o

.

d e liv e r a c e rta i n l e tte r o r me ssage a cco mp an i e d by a pre ,

s e n t t o a n i n dividu a l n a me d
, H e mu st ign o re th e fa ct th a t
.

s a id i n dividu a l d o e s n o t fe e l a s we fe e l a n d i s n o t b o u n d by ,

a n y o f o ur n o ti o n s o n p o i n t s o f h o n o ur H e mu st ca rry o ut .

h i s i n structi o n s with tru e B riti sh stra ight fo r wa rd n e ss a n d e n d ,

t h e p a la ve r by i n sulti n g h i s sa bl e Maj e sty with th e re fu sa l o f

t h e cu sto ma ry j o urn e y m o n e y o n p a i n o f di smi ss al A s a v a g e
-

,
.

o ught t o b e tr e a t e d a s a child H e mu st e ith e r b e p e rsu a d e d

.

i n a man n e r h e will u n d e rsta n d o r whipp e d Kn o w i n g

,
.

n o thi n g o f Th e o do re p e rs o n a lly but sp e a ki n g o f h i s n a ti o n

,

ge n e ra lly I sh o uld n e ve r ha v e e x p e ct e d t o ga i n an y thi n g

,

fro m pr e s e n t s t o h im T aki n g th e sa vage vi e w I sh o uld

.
,

hav e th o ught h i m a fo o l t o give up th e g o o s e th a t l a id h im

go ld e n e ggs ; a n d sh o uld b e sure tha t h e wo uld tru st t o n o
pro mi s e s o n d e liv e ry o f th e pri so n e rs I sho uld ha v e tri e d .
xx vi i i I N TR OD UC TI GI V .

Pa l a ce s p o rce la in p ago d as go ld e n go d s wi th diamo n d a n d

, ,

ruby e ye s a s big as e ggs We may bu rn a fe w mud an d .

-

tha tch huts if we like but pro bably th e n a tiv e s will sa ve us

th e tro uble ; an d th e n we ma y fo ll o w t h e e xampl e o f t h e
Kin g o f F ran ce who with all h is me n marche d up t h e hill
, , ,
”
a n d d o wn aga i n Sure ly it d o e s n o t n e e d
. m e n to
fight th e A byssin ian a rmy C e rta in ly n o t in spite o f all th e
we ll a rme d tro o p s a n d spl en did ca val ry
”
wo n d e rs o f , ,

I h ave h e ard I wo uld willin gly stan d the ir attack with t wo

,

co mp an i e s o f rifl e s o r be a t up the ir camp s o n e aft e r t h e

, ,

o th e r with a b att a li o n
,
— .
’
Pro vid e d a lways an d th e re s th e rub
-
th a t s omebody fin d me i n stores food a n d a mmun i ti on I , , .

h ave n o d o ubt Sir R o be rt N api e r wo uld say pre t ty n e a rly

t h e same but h e h as to k e ep s o me 40 0 mil e s o f re a r o p e n ,

a n d to bri n g up h i s supp li e s fr o m th e c o as t Ge n e ra lly .

s p e aki n g B n ti sh Li o n go i n g bl ackbi r di ng re min d s me o f t h e

, ,
’
co n v e n ti o n al F re n chman go in g o ut fo r a d a y s le sp o rt ”
,

with si milar small ga me : h e ca n n o t sh o o t a t o m tit un l e ss -

,

pro p e rly go t up in fo re st gre e n with a two fo o t hun tin g ,

-

k n i fe by h i s sid e so me t we n ty fe e t o f F re n ch h o rn c o il e d
,

ro un d h im an d th e sto ck o f h i s gun ca rve d with fie rce wil d

,

b o ars a t b ay B ut thi s is a v e ry e xce ptio n a l case Th e

. .

co un t ry cann o t b e d e p e n d e d up o n fo r suppli e s an d e v e n i f
th e n a tive s we re e v e r so willi n g I qu e sti o n wh e th e r o ur
”

tr0 0 p s wo uld th rive o n te ff an d dago ush a ca ke s o r o ur ca ttl e ,

’
o n th e ir s traw A s fo r fighti n g I d o n t thin k man y A b yssi
.
,

n i an s will c are to co me o n a s e co n d ti me wh e n th e y h a ve ,

l e arn t th e ran ge an d rapidity o f fire o f th e c o n v e rte d En fie ld .

The y might b e an n o yin g if th e y fire d a fe w mil e s o f jun gl e

,

o r gra ss thro ugh w hich o ur tro o p s we re p a ssi n g Wan t o f .

ro ad s a n d tran sp o rt o f suppli e s will b e th e gre a t diffi culti e s

, ,

t o c o n t e n d with T o rr e n t b e d s may i n s o m e pl a c e s se rv e fo r
.

t h e fo rme r but duri n g th e ra i n s th e y wo uld b e u se l e s s a n d ,

fo r s o me time a ft e r th e ir c e ssa ti o n man y o f th e m d an ge ro u s ,

fro m fe v e r N 0 o n e c an ca lcul a t e wh e n th e e xp e diti o n w ill

.

re turn so much d e p e n din g o n t h e whi m o f a se lf will e d -

,

d a rin g an d o b sti n a t e d e mi sav age O n e thi n g h o we v e r is -

.
,

—
, ,

c e rt a i n c o mman d e d a s it i s wha te ve r c an b e d o n e will b e

, , ,

do n e .
 LI F E IN A B Y S S I N IA .

C H APTE R I .

Leav e S ua —A n A ra b boa t —F el lo w p
as sen
gers —My bert h —S lf i
e - n v it ad

g ue sts —M ode
of lea rn i n g A r a b i c Th e S h er if Mo h a mm a d H a s h i m
H um pun k —
A r a b sea ma n sh ip Vo lca n ic rema i n s of the R ed S ea
—
F i r e o n boa rd our v es sel I II) ! powder i n da nger F or tun a t e deliv er —
—
mecca Mo h a mme da n legen d s Origi n of jea lo s a m w it h the bod
y u y—A d
of A bel —yoseph the fi rst cl ockma ke r — E l O ue‘ch e Th e B en i H assa n
The Tur k a n d th e A r a b Ca tch i ng turt les—Co mmun is m i n feed i ng
P ort of Ya mbo R a bba — Th e h o ly coun t ry My drago ma n S a id —

A r rr-
zn two ye a rs e mpl o ye d i n wan d e ri n g ab o ut Euro p e an d
t h e Le v a n t a n d t h e c o rre ct t o ur t o t h e fir st ca ta ra ct s o f th e
,

N il e I fo u n d myse l f e 5 th M a rch 1 8 43 o ff Su e z o n b o a rd
, , , , ,

a mi se ra bl e A rab b o a t b o u n d fo r J e dd a Th e se b o a ts a re .

o f a mo d e l which c o uld h a rdly b e ca ll e d

”
ship s ha p e -
,

t h e i r aft e r p a rt b e i n g v e ry much o ut o f wa t e r whil e t h e

-
,

b o ws are a s ridicul o u sly clo se t o it The y ca rry two ma st s

.
,

t h e fo re mas t b e i n g much l a rge r than t h e miz e n A l a rge .

l att e e n sa il i s c arri e d o n t h e o n e mast i n light we a the r but

whe n it co me s o n t o bl o w thi s i s t ak e n in an d a sma ll e r
, ,

o n e h o i s t e d o n t h e o th e r I say wh e n it c o me s o n t o bl o w
.
,

but I me an to bl o w a littl e ; fo r th e y mak e fo r th e sh o re ,

an d an ch o r i f th e re b e an ythi n g s tiffe r th an a mo d e ra t e
,

bre e z e The y n e ve r a tte mpt t o re e f n o r i n d e e d ha ve the y

.
,

an y m e an s o f so d o i n g Such was t h e e xt e ri o r o f t h e b o a t
.

which wa s t o b e a r me t o J e dd a — a vo yage which ma y

o ccupy fr o m n i n e d ay s t o thre e mo n th s a cc o rdi n g t o t h e ,

go o d w ill o r o pp o siti o n o f th e p o te n t go d o lu s .

But fo r t h e in te ri o r o f o ur b o a t Sh e was fill e d t o th e

.

B
 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . CM . 1
.

d e ck , c abin a n d a ll , with e mpt

y ric e b ags b e lo n gin g t o that
ri c f m rch a t s Ibr ahi m P a ch a ; th e d e ck o n l
p n e o e n , y t e

mai n e d fo r th e p a sse n ge rs a n d we ll fill e d it was with t h e m

,

a n d th e ir luggage We mus te re d I sh o uld th ink n ea rly a

.
, ,

—
hu n dre d p e rso n s o f all ra ce s Turks Gre e k s A l ban ian s
—
, , ,

B e d o ui n s Egy ptian s a n d N e gro e s

, ,
me n wo men an d , ,

c hildre n a ll cro wd e d t o ge th e r
,
fo rme d a mo tl e y gro up ,

ictur e s qu e I sh o uld p e rh a p s h a v e sa id if it h a d b e e n a
p , ,

lit tl e furthe r o ff H e re a Turk qu a rre ll e d with a n e gro fo r

.

h is pl a ce th e re a De rwish cl a d i n rags o f e ve ry ima gin a bl e

‘

c o l o ur a n d c a rryi n g a flag s i mil a rly b e d e ck e d o ffe re d h is

, ,

i t o a fi e rc e l o o ki n g A lban i an ; a n d as fo r th e wo m e n
pp e -
,

th e y we re all qu a rre lli n g A s I p aid co n sid e ra bly m o re

.

tha n a n y o n e e l se o n bo a rd I h a d th e cho ice all o we d m e o f

,

a n y pl a c e I pre fe rre d ; t h e b e st was o ccupi e d by a n a tive

me rc ha n t a n d h is family an d t h e mast e r o f t h e b o a t a n d my
,

se rva n t we re fo r tur n i n g th e m o ut ; but the y l o o k e d so

sn u gly pa ck e d a mo n g th e ir b o x e s th a t I c o uld n o t a ll o w o f

s o u nga ll an t a pr o c e e di n g a n d co n t e n t e d myse l f with a h o l e

,

o f a b o ut 5 ft 6 i n by 3 ft 2 in
. . which wa s scrap e d fo r me
. .
,

a mo n g b a l e s a n d b o x e s ju st b e l o w th e miz e n ma st
, Wh at .

I l o st h o we ve r in p o i n t o f c o mfo rt wa s amply re p a id by
, ,

t h e civility a n d g o o d n e i ghb o u rship o f t h e p art y w h o n o t ,

o n ly ma d e th e ms e lv e s a s a gre e a bl e as p o ssibl e but a l so ,

s po k e hi ghly o f me t o t h e r e s t o f th e p a sse n g e rs a n d thu s ,

re n d e re d t h e v o yage v e ry agre e abl e My de n a fte r a ll was .

, ,

t o le ra b ly sn u g th o ugh I co uld n o t li e d o wn full l e n gth in

,

it ; n o r was t h e at mo sph e re an y co o l e r tha n n e c e ssa ry ; fo r

t o pro te ct my se l f fro m t h e h e a t o f t h e sun a t n o o n an d ,

fro m t h e d e ws which fe ll he a v ily duri n g th e n ight I h ad ,

co v e re d it with a bl a n k e t which wa s o blige d to b e ra th e r

,

lo w d o wn (n o t quit e 3 fe e t high ) a s t h e sail shi ft e d o v e r it , .

Th e myri ad s o f p a ra sitica l a n i ma lculae t o o o f va ri o us , ,

d e scripti o n s which swa rme d i n t h e b o a t a nn o y e d m e grie v

, ,

o usly fo r t wo o r thr e e da y s but I so o n go t a ccu s to me d to ,

th e m O n e by o n e t h e pa s se n ge rs scra p e d a cqu a i n t a n ce
.

w ith me an d wh e n my c o v e ri n g wa s r e mo v e d th e y w o uld
,

c o me an d cha t with me I n thi s way I so o n go t gre at .

 C H AP . I . H UM P UN K .
”
3

fri e n d s with a ll o n b o a rd
thre e in d e e d o f t h e p a rty
t wo or , ,

s o ne
( t h e s kipp e r w a a n d a y o u n g Sh e ri f, o r li n e a l de ,

s c e n da n t o f t h e P ro ph e t a n o th e r) a rriv e d a t such a de re e
, g
o f i n ti ma cy th a t th e y wo uld c o me a n d s i t w ith m e a fte r

da rk wh e n a ll t h e re st h a d re tire d Th e re wa s ho we v e r a .
, ,

se c re t i n thi s ; th e y o n c e fo u n d me dri n ki n g so me thi n g ,

an d o n i n quiri n g wh a t it was I t o ld th e m
,
sh e rb e t o f o ur
,

O n th e ir a skin g p e rmi ssi o n t o ta st e it I sa id it

”
c o u n try .
,

might n o t b e right fo r th e m t o d o so tho ugh a s fa r a s I wa s ,

co n c e rn e d th e y we re w e lco me N o t with sta n d i n g thi s hi n t .

tha t it c o n tai n e d s o me u n la wful ma tt e r th e y se e me d an xi o u s ,

t o t e s t i t s me rit s a n d I a ll o we d th e m t o d o s o : t h e firs t
,

e v e n i n g it wa s a sip t h e se c o n d a gulp a n d t h e third a

, ,
”
gl a ss ; ra th e r stro n g sh e rb e t it wa s t o o fo r it c o n ta i n e d
“
,

a go o d pro p o rti o n o f rum I n thi s way I i n a sh o rt ti me

.

l e a rn t e n o ugh o f A rabic t o ma k e mys e l f u n d e r sto o d wi th o ut

th e a i d o f a n i n t e rp re t e r ; a n d my fri e n d t h e Sh e ri f Mo
h a mm e d H ashi m wi shi n g to l e a rn Italia n we mutu ally ,

as s i st e d e a ch o th e r H e so o n ma d e so me pro fici e n cy i n h i s
.

studi e s which h e e vi n c e d by c a lli n g t h e ca pt a i n by o ppro

,
’
b ri o us n a me s s uch a s
” ”
sh e e p s h e a d ca bbage s do n
“ “
, , ,
’ ”
k e y s e a rs & c a n d th e n tra n sl a ti n g th e sa m e fo r h is
,
.
,

b e n e fit O n e n ight t h e gro g b e i n g a littl e stro n ge r a n d i n

.
,

gre a te r qu a n tity than u su a l h e a sk e d me wha t tha t so rt o f ,

”
“
sh e rb e t wa s c a ll e d i n En gli sh ; I t o ld h im rum pu n ch ;
h e th e n w e n t th e ro u n d o f th e p a sse n ge rs a n d wa ki n g th e m , ,

o ut o f th e ir s l e e p i n fo rme d th e m with m a n y hiccup s t h a t

, , ,

h um pu n k mo ld o b o n i o “ ”
wa s .

We h a d tw e n ty thre e d ay s v o yage to J e dda th e wi n d

’ -

b e i n g c o n tra ry duri n g t h e gre a t e r pa rt o f th e ti me A .

st e a m e r wo uld d o it p e rh a p s i n t hre e d ay s a n d an E n li sh
g ,

sa ili n g v e s s e l i n si x o r s e v e n It st ruck m e fo rcibly tha t.

A r a b se a ma n ship c o n si st s o f lyin g t o wh e n it bl o w s un
fa v o ura bly a n d n o t w o rki n g w h e n t h e wi n d i s fa i r
, .

N o tw i t h st a n d i n g th e se p re ca uti o n s ma n y b o a t s a re l o st ;
an d it i s w o n d e rful th a t a n y a rriv e sa fe a t th e i r d e sti n a ti o n

fo r u n pr o vid e d a s th e y a re wi th e ith e r ch a rt s lo g so u n di n g
, , ,

lin e s o r o th e r me an s o f di sc o v e rin g th e ir wh e re a b o u ts th e y
, ,

B 2
 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CRA P I . .

a re o blige d t o ke e p as cl o se t o t h e sho re as po s s ible an d ,

tru st t o re co gn i si n g la n d ma rk s Such n avi ga ti o n w o ul d n o t

.

b e so d a n ge ro u s we re th e c o ast pre tty cl ea r but th e s h o re s

o f t h e R e d Se a a re b o rd e r e d by n e v e r c eas i n g sh o a ls o f -

co ral ma n y o f which a re b a re ly co ve re d by t h e wa t e r a n d
, ,

thro ugh which t h e b o a t s thre a d th e ir pre ca ri o us c o urse ,

tru sti n g o n ly t o th e ra th e r irr e gul a r l o o k o ut ke pt b y an -

A ra b sa il o r .

Th e re gi o n a ro u n d t h e R e d Se a a pp e a rs t o c o n ta i n ma n y
vo lc an ic r e mai n s a n d a l so a gre a t n u mbe r o f min e ra l o r
, ,

rathe r h o t s pri n gs O f th e la tt e r ma y b e me n ti o n e d th e
,
.

S pri n gs o f Mo s e s ; th e B irk e t F a ra o un o r P o o l o f P h a ,

ra o h a sulphur o u s spri n g ; t h e sprin gs o f H a dj ar e l Ma

,
- -
,
”
or t h e S t o n e o f Wa t e r n e a r To r ; a n d o th e rs
, which ,

a re t o wa rd s t h e n o rth e rn e xtre mi ty o f th e gul f N e ar .

Lit a re t h e spri n gs ca ll e d Safra pro ba bly sulphuro us a lso , ,

fro m t h e n am e which a ppli e d as an a dj e ctiv e t o wa te r

, , ,

wo uld me a n y e ll o w : a n d I sh a ll h a v e o cc as i o n t o m e n ti o n
my vi sit t o th a t o f A il a t n e a r M a ssawa , A fri e n d o f mi n e
.

a t t h e l a tt e r pl a c e i n fo rme d me tha t th e r e we r e n e a rly a

hu n d re d such spri n gs i n diffe re n t p a rt s o f A ra bi a a n d n e ar

t h e R e d Se a but th a t th o s e o f A il a t a n d Shfra w e re th e
,

mo s t e s t e e me d fo r th e ir h e a li n g pro p e rti e s .

P a s si n g u n d e r th e mo un ta i n at t h e fo o t o f which i s t h e
B irk e t F a ra o un I wa s sh o wn a h ill o pp o sit e t o it fr o m
, ,

which i s s aid t o Spri n g a fo u n t a i n o f o i l (p e tro l e u m) ; a n d

t h e hill h a s i n c o n se qu e n c e b e e n c a ll e d Dj e b e l e z Z e yt ,

o r t h e Oil M o u n t a i n I c o uld n o t l an d t o vi sit e ith e r o f

.

th e se pla c e s as we w e re lyi n g o ff b e ca l me d a t a co n sid e r

, ,

a bl e di st a n c e fro m th e sh o re .

N e a r To r a n d i n d e e d i n o n e o r t wo pl a c e s o n t h e c o as t
, ,

I o b se rv e d tha t t h e gro u n d wa s spre a d with fo ssil re ma i n s

o f sh e ll s a n d o th e r m a ri n e o bj e ct s : e v e n so me o f t h e hill s

s e e me d t o b e pri n cip a lly fo rm e d o f t h e s a me ma t e ri a l .

1 ma d e p a rticul a r i n quiri e s a b o ut v o lc a n o e s e ith e r a ctiv e o r ,

d o rma n t : o n e th e n a me o f which I fo rge t was said t o h a ve

, ,

b e e n i n acti o n withi n t h e me mo ry o f man Th e B ird .

M o u n tai n o r as it is a l so ca ll e d th e Dj e b e l Do khan o r
, , , ,
C HA P . I . F I RE A T SE A .

Smo k e M o u n ta i n is sa id s till t o e mit smo ke but n o t fire

, , .

Thi s i s in a n i slan d so uth o f J e dd a wh e re i s a l so a sulphu r ,

m i n e which t h e Egypti a n Go ve rn me n t e ith e r pro p o se d to

,

w o rk o r h a vi n g a tt e mpt e d t o d o so a ba n d o n e d
, , I n ma n y ,
.

pla ce s h o we ve r o n th e c o a st th e app e a ra n ce o f th e ro cks

, , ,

wo uld i n duc e a tra v e ll e r e v e n a s ign o ran t a s myse l f i n

,

ge o l o gical ma tte rs t o i ma gin e tha t h e c o uld tra ce th e wo rk

,

o f t h e l am e o ld bl a ck smith .

Durin g th e first p a rt o f o ur vo yage we h a d o cca si o n a lly

so me ra th e r ro ugh we a th e r which ma d e o ur d e ck s ,
e sp e ,

c ia ll y t h e p a rt s o ccupi e d by fe ma l e s a n yt hi n g but a gre e a bl e , .

O n c e we we re i n i mmi n e n t d a n ge r o f b e i n g burn t a ll
sta n di n g We we re lyi n g b e ca l me d at a c o n sid e ra bl e di s
.

ta n c e fro m th e l an d I wa s qui e tly smo ki n g wh e n I h e ard

.
,
”
a n d mi n gl e d cri e s o f
”
a c o n fuse d n o i se fire ! wa t e r ! “ “
,

h e dro pp e d a h o t c o a l fro m h i s pip e ! & c

”
“
I fe lt v e ry .

guilty t hi n ki n g it might b e mi n e th e y we re a lludi n g t o but

,

no ,
mi n e wa s a ll right Th e smo k e h o we v e r which wa s
.
, ,

ri s in g fro m th e middl e o f t h e ca rgo pr o v e d th a t a ll w a s n o t ,

right ther e : a n d th e fa ct wa s tha t a n Alb an ian se a te d o n a ,

p il e o f b o xe s h ad dro pp e d a light e d co al which fi n di n g i t s

, , ,
’
wa y b e t we e n th e m go t a t l a st a mo n g h is High n e ss s e mpty
,

ric e b ags Wha t wa s to b e d o n e P To mo ve t h e b aggage

-
.

wa s h o p e l e ss th e re wa s such a lo t o f it
,
Th e o n ly wa y wa s .

to s o u s e t h e wh o l e with wa t e r Thi s wa s a cco rdi n gly d o n e .

,

but t o littl e e ffe ct a t first fo r to a ll app e ara n ce t h e smo k e

,

was ra pidly i n cre a si n g D u ri n g t h e wh o l e a ffa ir th e re wa s

.

such c o n fu si o n a s wa s n e v e r I b e li e v e se e n e xc e pt a mo n g , ,

Ara b s — t h e c re w a n d gre a t e r p a rt o f t h e p a sse n g e rs o f b o th

se x e s cro w di n g n e a r t h e pl a c e e a ch a n xi o u s t o d o so me thi n g, ,

an d i n c o n s e qu e n c e e v e ry o n e pre v e n ti n g h i s n e ighb o ur fro m

do i n g a n ythi n g A ll we r e o ut o f th e ir min d s with fright

.
,

which th e y e vi n c e d a cc o rdi n g t o th e ir di ffe re n t di sp o s iti o n s

—
,

s o m e scre a m i n g s o m e sw e a ri n g,
s o m e pra yi n g I tri e d , .

to b e o f us e but fi n di n g tha t p a rtly fro m t h e co n fu si o n an d ,

pa rtly fro m my A rabic n o t b e i n g o v e r i n t e lligibl e I c o uld -

,

n o t ga i n a h e a ri n g I r e tir e d qui e tly i n t o my h o l e a n d phil o

, ,

so phic a lly light e d an o ther pip e but wa s n o t l o n g a ll o we d t o ,

6 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CH A P I
. .

re ma i n i n pe ace Se ve ra l vo ic e s cri e d o ut to thro w a ll th e

.

p o wd e r o v e rb o ard ; a n d a cc o rdi n gly ab o ut a p o u n d o r t wo

was c o lle cte d fro m t h e p a ssen ge rs a n d c o mmitt e d t o th e
d e e p ; a n d it b e i n g kn o wn tha t I h a d a g o o d st o ck o f th at
a rticl e wit h me t h e C a pt a i n ca me t o ask wh e re it was that
, ,

it a s we ll a s th e re st might b e d e prive d o f it s e xpl o si v e pro

, ,

p e n si t i e s by a ducki n g I n a n sw. e r t o thi s i n quiry I m e re ly

”
sa id U n d e r ! u n d e r ! a n d p o in t e d do wn wa rd s N o w th e .

cabi n was i mme dia te ly u n d e r m e a n d c o uld n o t p o ssibly b e

,

t a t b e i n g j a mme d to t h e d o o r with b aggage N v r did

g o , e e .

I se e such a gri ma c e o f h o rro r a s t h e p o o r C a pta i n ma d e at

t h e id e a o f b e i n g i n e vit ably bl o wn up B ut t h e p o w d e r wa s
.

n o t in t h e ca bi n ! N o r h a d I t o ld a li e I h a d a squ a re .

d e a l b o x b o u n d with iro n c o n ta i n i n g ab o ut 3 8 lb s o f Pigo u

, .

’
an d Wilk s s b e s t un der m e ,
fo r I wa s sittin g o n it a t t h e
,
’
mo me n t I wa sn t o f co urse go i n g t o th ro w it awa y till it
.

w a s a b s o lut e ly n e c e ssa ry fo r wha t sh o uld I th e n h a v e d o n e

,

i n A by ssi n i a ! My littl e i n n o c e n t d e c e pti o n h o w e v e r did , ,

mo re go o d th an a n ythi n g e l s e fo r t h e C aptai n rush e d ba ck

, ,

swe a ri n g th a t th e r e we re se v e ra l c an tars hu n dre d w e ight)

(
o f p o wd e r a mo n g th e sa ck s i n t h e c a bi n A t thi s n e ws t h e
.

scre a ms o f t h e w o me n t h e pra y e rs o f t h e d e rwi sh a n d t h e

, ,

o a th s a n d (wha t wa s o f m o r e i mp o rt an c e ) e x e rti o n s o f t h e

me n re d o ubl e d ; an d in a sh o rt ti me t o th e gre a t re li e f o f ,

a l l t h e s hip wa s pro n o u n c e d o ut o f d an ge r by fire

,
— fo r th e ,

ti me a t l e a st Th e n th e re wa s a di spla y o f a ll so rt s o f
.

’ ’
a rt icl e s o f l a di e s a n d g e n tl e me n s d re sse s which w e re t a k e n ,

o ut o f th e ir d e luge d ca se s a n d hu n g up t o dry Th e wa t e r .

which h ad re a ch e d th e we ll wa s pu mp e d o ut a n d a ll was ,

qui e t a ga i n It wo uld h av e b e e n ra th e r awkwa rd h a d we

.

b e e n bu rn t th e re se v e ra l mil e s fro m l an d i n a s e a full o f

, ,

sh a rk s a n d with a v e ry sma ll c an o e (a t b e s t c a p a bl e o f
,

ca rryi n g o n ly t e n p e rso n s) a s o ur o n ly me a n s o f e s ca p e .

Th e e ve n in g o f t h e 3 rst o f M a rch saw us an ch o re d o ff

R a s Mo h a mm e d a n d n e xt d ay we s e t sa il ag ai n but o wi n g
, ,

t o c o n tra ry w i n d s ma d e but littl e p ro g re ss a n ch o ri n g fo r th e ,

n ight i n a picture s qu e cre e k O n th e 2 n d o f A pril we

.

cro sse d fo r th e Gulf o f Aka b a with a fair wi n d a n d a h e a vy

,
8 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . I .

Wh e n A d a m fo u n d th e murd e re d bo dy o f A be l n o t ,

kn o wi n g wha t t o d o with it h e ca rri e d it ab o ut o n h is ,

sh o uld e r s fo r twe n ty days A llah a t l as t ta ki n g pity o n h i m

.
, ,

se n t a cro w which like wi se c a rri e d i t s d e a d o ffsp ri n g o n i ts

,

ba ck Th e cro w fle w b e fo re A da m till co min g t o so me

.
, ,

sa n d it scra tch e d a h o l e a n d buri ed i t s yo u n g

, A d a m saw .

it an d did t he sa me
, .

To J o se ph is assign e d by tra diti o n t h e i n v e n ti o n o f cl o c ks

th e y say th a t b e c o n struct e d o n e with wo o d e n w o rks w h e n
in pri so n in Egypt Th e s t o ry o f h i s e a rly li fe i s n e a rl y t h e
.

s a m e as o ur o w n Th e y s.ta t e h o w e v e r th a t t h e
,
su m p a id ,

fo r h i m by P o tiph a r wh o wa s a ca pta i n i n t h e
,
N iza m o f
’
Pha ra o h s a rmy was 2 5 p a ra s e quival e n t t o a b o ut n kd
, , .

E n gli sh mo n e y .

I n t h e a fte rn o o n o f t h e 4t h o f A pril we a rriv e d a t El

O uéc h e . Thi s i s an A ra b village a t so me di stan c e fr o m t h e
sh o re but the y hav e a so rt o f ba zar o r ma rke t o n th e b e a ch
fo r t h e c o n ve n i e n ce o f v e ss e l s which u su a lly st o p h e re an d
,

t a ke in a supply o f pro vi sio n s a n d wate r M an y o f t h e .

pilgri ms r e turn in g fro m Me cca p re fe r c o min g hithe r by l an d

a n d cro s si n g o v e r t o C o ss e i r the n c e by t h e d e se rt t o K e n e h ,

o n t h e N il e wh e n c e th e y t a k e b o a t t o C a iro The re we re .

man y p e rso n s n o w wa itin g t o cro ss I was s truck by t h e .

cl e a rn e ss o f t h e wa te r which fro m i t s bright blue co l o ur put

,

me in mi n d o f th e La k e o f Ge n e va Multitud e s o f fish o f .
,

e ve ry sh a p e siz e
, a n d c o l o ur
,
a ttra ct e d by t h e bits thr o wn
,

o v e rb o a rd sh o a l e d ro u n d t h e v e ss e l ; th e y
,
in th e ir turn , ,

we r e lure s t o a n u mb e r o f gull s dive rs an d c o rmo ra n ts wh o , , ,

fe arl e ss ly p e rch e d o n o ur v e sse l a n d riggin g wa iti n g t h e ,

mo me n t t o p o u n c e up o n th e i r pre y .

O n t h e 6 th o f A pril w e a rrive d o ff Dj e b e l H a ssa n H e re .

o n e o f my fri e n d s a y o u n g A ra b o f t h e
,
tribe o f B e n i
H a ssa n l e ft me h e was a v e ry go o d y o uth an d so n o f o n e
, ,

o f t h e chi e fs I h a d h a d ma n y co n ve rsa ti o n s with h im

.

re sp e cti n g h i s trib e an d th e B e d o ui n s i n ge n e ral Th e B e n i .

H a ssan a re ho we v e r fo r th e mo st p a rt fi sh e rme n o n ly a
, , ,

fe w wa n d e ri n g i n l a n d O n thi s a cc o u n t th e y wo uld b e
.

l o o k e d up o n n o d o ubt as h avi n g d e ge n e ra te d fro m t h e

, ,
C HA P . 1 . CA TCH I N G TUR TLE S .
9

t rue ha bit s o f the migra to ry tribe s . N o twith st an di n g my

re ligio n ag ain st which th e B e d o uin s
,
a re i n ge n e ral mo re

pre judic e d th an e v e n th e p e o pl e o f M e cca o r M e di n a this ,

yo uth h ad b e c o me e xce e di n gly fri e n dly with me a n d as ke d ,

me t o visi t h i m i n h i s c o u n try pro mi si n g tha t I sh o uld b e ,

we ll re c e iv e d an d th a t h e wo uld give me i n ma rri ag e h is

,

se c o n d s i st e r th e pre tti e st girl i n th e tri be

,
A yo u n g Turk .
,

wh o wa s sta n di n g by a sk e d i n a ra th e r i n so l e n t mann e r if
,

h e wo uld giv e h im as go o d a re ce pti o n sh o uld h e c o me , .

To t h i s t h e A ra b r e pli e d by p as s i n g h i s ha n d a cro ss h i s
thro a t which dre w a la ugh fro m t h e bysta n d e rs Th e
, .

Ara b s ha t e t h e Turk s l o o ki n g up o n th e m a s th e ir n a tural

,

e n e mi e s be in g to o o f a di ffe re n t se ct th e y ha v e n o t e v e n
, , ,

re ligi o u s symp a thy fo r e a ch o the r .

Afte r h a vi n g l e ft Dj e b e l H assa n a fe w ho urs we p asse d a ,

co upl e o f turtl e s b a skin g t o ge th e r o n t h e wa t e r A man .

in sta n tly jump e d o v e rb o a rd th o ugh we we re ru n n i n g a t a

,

g re a t p a c e w i,th a fi n e br e e z e bl o wi n g T h e A ra b w h o w as .
,

a spl e n did swimme r so o n re a che d th e turtl e s

,
a n d ke pt ,

th e m fro m divin g by turn in g t h e ir fo re flappe rs upwa rd s ,

till o n e o r two mo re han d s came t o h i s a ssis ta n c e Th e .

b o a t w as ho v e t o a n d th e ca n o e se n t o ff t o pick the m up
, ,

an d a ll a rriv e d sa fe o n b o a rd Th e y pro v e d o f a go o d size

.
,

a n d th e ir sh e ll s va lu abl e I n th e e v e n i n g th e ir fl e sh wa s
.

ma d e i n t o a so rt o f so up o r ra the r s t e w o f which I wa s
, ,

i n vite d t o p a rtak e It wa s i n o n e large wo o d e n b o wl

.
,

ro u n d which sa t a b o ut t we n ty c o n vive s My o wn bla ck .

se rv a n t sa t n e xt to me a n d e v e ry o n e dipp e d hi s h a n d
, ,

arm e d with a pi e c e o f br e a d i n t o t h e sa me di sh A t th e .

ti me o f my vo yage to J e dd a thi s so rt o f co mmun i sm in

fe e di n g wa s ra th e r e xtra o rdi n a ry to me but si n ce tha t ti me
I ha ve fo r ye a rs b e e n in th e c o n sta n t ha bit o f dippi n g my
”
fi n g e r i n t h e di sh with n igge rs an d thi n k e ve n n o w th a t ,

tha t mo d e o f e a ti n g i s far mo re co n ve n i e n t a n d a s it i s , ,

pra cti se d in t h e Ea st quit e a s cl e a n ly a s th e use o f kn ive s

,

a n d fo rk s a n d a ft e r a ll
,
fi n ge rs we re ma d e first
,
.
”

N o thi n g o f i n t e r e s t o ccurre d du ri n g t h e r e ma i n d e r o f o ur
vo ya ge We pa sse d th e p o rt o f Yamb o a la rge village in
.
, ,
 10 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . I .

which I re ma rk e d n o thi n g p a rticul a r t o di sti n gui sh it fro m

an
y o th e r A ra b v i ll age o f t h e R e d Se a e xc e pt th a
,
t it i s

surro u n d e d by a v e ry s light wa ll a n d th a t i f p o ssibl e it is

, , ,

full e r o f d a te s fli e s a n d s ti n k s tha n mo st o f th e m

, , .

Thre e d ays a fte r we put i n to R abba Thi s i s o n th e .

n o rth e rn fro n ti e r o f th e h o ly c o u n try ca ll e d H e dj a z fro m i ts ,

b e i n g t h e l an d o f pilgri mage ; o r p e rhap s th e n ame wo uld

b e b e tt e r d e riv e d fro m th e flight o f t h e Pro ph e t wh e n c e i s ,

da te d t h e M o hamme d an e ra H e re th e pilgrims c a s t o ff
.

the ir o ld garme n ts a n d with th e m th e ir wo rldly th o ughts

, ,

a n d put o n whit e ro b e s . Th e n igge rs o f wh o m w e h a d

,

s e v e ra l o n b o a rd b e ca me w o n d e rfully se d a t e an d g o dly t o
, ,

t h e gre a t a mu se me n t o f my dra go ma n Sa id wh o th o ugh a, , ,

n igge r hi mse l f a n d a Mu ss ul man by birth h a d fro m h a vi n g

, , ,

mi xe d a ll h is life with Euro p e an s imbib e d much o f th e ir

,

id e as in spiritu al matte rs (p e rha p s s till mo re in spirituo us

ma tte rs) . Th e e v e n i n g we a rrive d a t R abb a h e a sk e d me
l e a ve t o go a sh o re On my i n quiri n g wha t fo r h e sa id t o
.
,

cha n ge h i s cl o th e s an d h is ha bit s but th e face ti o u s twi n kle

o f h i s e ye i n duc e d me t o b e li e v e th a t h e wa s n o t a true

p e n it e n t : h o we ve r I gav e h i m l e a v e a n d h e re turn e d v e ry
, ,

l a t e an d ra th e r th e wo rse fo r liqu o r
, .

N e xt day we a rrive d i n sight o f J e dda an d a lth o ugh ,

fro m th e k i n d n e s s a n d go o d hu m o ur o f my fe ll o w p a sse n ge rs ,

t h e vo y age h a d p a sse d a gre e a bly still we we re a ll v e ry gla d

,

w he n th e l o o k o ut a n n o u n ce d th a t t h e mi n a re t s o f t h e t o wn
-

we re vi sibl e . A rab s i n ge n e ra l a re e a sily man age d The y .

a re a t fir st di s po se d t o b e tro ubl e so me i n the ir curi o sity ,

a n d o cc a s i o n a lly ra th e r i n s o l e n t but if the y se e tha t t h e

tra ve ll e r is i n cli n e d t o ma k e hi mse l f ple asan t an d t o b e a r ,

w ith th e m th e y a re a lwa y s re a dy t o me e t h i m mo r e tha n

,

ha l f way .
C R AP I I . .
yE D D A TH E B RI TI S H C ON S UL . 11

C H A PTE R II .

T sh Co ns ul—E as tern to wns

yed da h e B r it i N a t i v e d ress Th e F etta h
el K h ey r
'
Coch roac hes S o udh i n —M Vtg n o n — N a t iv e duels— M ode
of t r ea t i n g docto r s —F i sh —Massdw a — A n elo th e 7 e w T h K a i ma h m
g e g
Th e cl i ma te of M assci w a —I ts i n h a bit a n ts a n d h o uses—My h ost—My
cos t ume i n th e E as t .

F R o M th e se a th e t o wn of
J e dd a a pp e a rs t o gre a t a dvan tage .

Th e w hite h o u se s a n d m i n a re t s a re a l wa y s striki n g o bj e ct s
i n a tro pica l clima t e e sp e ci a lly wh e n c o n tra s te d with t h e
,

blu e sky an d i t s re fle c ti o n o n t h e e qu a lly blu e wa t e r Th e

, .

e n tra n c e t o t h e i n n e r h a rb o ur i s r e n d e re d e xtr e me ly di ffi cult

by a triple ro w o f c o ra l re e fs ju st c o ve re d by t h e wa te r
-
, ,

a m o n g w hich a v e sse l st a n di n g i n wa rd h a s t o thre a d h e r wa y

thro ugh a n a rr o w a n d zigzag p a ssage Th e la rge r cl a ss o f .

s hip s tra di n g b e t we e n thi s p o rt a n d B o mb ay r e ma i n o ut sid e

e v e n o ur sma ll b o a t t o uch e d th re e ti me s b e fo re we e ffe ct e d

a n e n tra n c e I wa s right gl a d t o fin d mys e l f a sh o re e v e n

.
,

a t J e dd a a n d s o o n fo u n d my w a y t o t h e h o u se o f o ur
,

w o r t hy c o n s ul Mr A C O gilvy t o who m I b o re a l e tt e r
,
. . .
,

o f i n tr o ducti o n I sp e n t a n agre e a bl e fo rt n ight u n d e r h is

.

ro o f till a b o a t b o u n d fo r th e c o a st o f A by ssin i a l e ft t h e
,

p o rt .

D uri n g my s ta y I vi site d s e ve ra l n a tive h o use s in t h e

t o wn a n d t o o k fre qu e n t walk s i n t h e n e ighb o u rh o o d
,
.

Th e re is n o thin g o f v e ry gr e a t i n t e re st in e i th e r th e o n e o r
t h e o th e r I h a d ma d e a pl an fo r vi sitin g Me cca i n which
.
,

s o m e o f my fo rm e r fri e n d s o f t h e b o a t h a d j o i n e d me ; but

I wa s di ssu ad e d by t h e c o n sul wh o t o ld me tha t th e ri sk o f

,

b e i n g k e pt th e re till I c o n se n t e d t o p ro fe ss Mo ha mme da n i sm
w as fa r t o o gre a t t o b e r e p aid by a n ythi n g I migh t se e
duri n g my tra n sito ry vi sit .
12 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . II .

O n e d ay whil e walki n g o n t h e b e a ch I saw so me fish e r

me n dra wi n g in th e ir n e ts, an d wa s a sto n i sh e d a t th e
e xtra o rdi n a ry va ri e ty , b o th i n sh a p e a n d c o l o ur, o f th e fish

the y h a d caught M a n y o f th e m w e re o f th e mo s t brilli an t

.

hu e s : o n e in pa rticula r w as s trip e d scarl e t an d a bri ght

ultra ma rin e blu e I tri e d t o pre se rv e so me by ski n n i n g
-
.

the m but th e e n tire l o ss o f th e brilli a n cy o f th e ir c o l o uri n g

so much di spirit e d me th a t I ga v e up th e a tt e mpt .

Th e t o wn h a s b e e n c o mp a re d by a fo rme r writ e r t o t h e
white d s e pulchre s o f Scripture which a re d e scrib e d as ,

fa ir o ut sid e but filthy withi n : so i n d e e d i s J e dd a Th e , , .

fa vo ura bl e o pi n i o n which th e tra ve ll e r fo rms o f i ts e xt e ri o r

as h e a ppro a ch e s it fro m th e se a i s s o o n di s sip a t e d a s h e

picks hi s way thro ugh th e fil th tha t i n man y pla ce s i s a ll o w e d

t o re ma i n thickly stre we d i n th e n a rro w a ll e ys which i n all
Ori e n t al citi e s are th e sub stitut e s fo r stre e ts On t h e w h o l e .
,

J e dd a i s a to l e rably we ll built t o wn havin g i ts ba z ars -

, ,

mo squ e s d a te s fli e s filth & c in c o mmo n with e ve ry t o wn

, , , ,
.
,

in the se l o n gitud e s .

It i s surro un d e d by a wall suffi ci e n tly stro n g t o r e si st t h e

a tt a ck s o f th e B e d o ui n but u se l e ss aga i n st a rtille ry Th e
, .

c o u n t ry i mme di a te ly ro un d it i s a n o p e n tra ct o f sa n d wi t h
o ut a v e stige o f h e rb age but fa rthe r i n la n d e sp e cia lly i n ,

t h e dire cti o n o f M e cca se ve ra l hill s are t o b e se e n

,
Wa t e r .

i s sca rc e a s it ca n o n ly b e pro cure d fro m a di stan c e n o r i s

,

it a lwa ys v e ry go o d o r wh o l e so me Th e mark e ts a re to l e .

rab ly w e ll suppli e d ivi th v e ge ta bl e s br o ught fro m t h e i n ,

t e ri o r ; t h e chi e f so rt s o f which a re wa t e r me l o n s pu mpk in s -

, ,

cucumb e rs swe e t p o ta t o e s (go ulga s) o n i o n s & c F o r fruit

, , , .
,

t h e y h a v e sma ll apric o t s l e mo n s o ra n ge s p o me gran a t e s

, , , ,
'

b an an a s an d l a st but n o t l e ast in qu an tity d a te s Th e

, , , .

p o pula tio n va ri e s I sh o uld say fro m

, to ,

a cco rdin g t o th e n u mb e r o f pilgri ms w hich ma b t h r

y e e e .

Th e c o stu me s t o b e se e n a re o f c o urse v e ry n u me ro u s as ,

n a tiv e s o f a ll th e M o ha mme d an n a ti o n s fl o ck t o t h e pil ri m

g
a ge . Th e dre ss o f t h e n a tive s o f th e c o u n try di ffe rs but
slightly fro m th e Egypti a n : t h e B e d o ui n A ra b s h o we v e r , ,
”
sub sti t u t e t h e
“
a ba ia o r ha ir cl o ak fo r t h e jibb a nd a
, ; a ,
C H AP . II . TH E ‘
P E TTA H E L KH E YR ’
. 13

k o fiya , h an dk e rchi e f usu ally o f re d with ye ll o w an d

or , ,
-

g o ld b o rde r a n d fri n ge i s w o rn by th e m o n th e h e ad i n ste a d

,

o f t h e turb an F o r we a p o n s the y use a l o n g gun a n d a

.
,

cro o ke d kn i fe o r cre e se ca ll e d je mb fya ,

”
.

I l e ft J e dda o n th e 8 th o f Ma y a n d go t o n bo ard th e fas t ,

sa ili n g go o d ship P e tta h e l K h e yr

‘
ca pta in a n d o wn e r ,

O ma r H amd an We we re d e laye d two d ays waiti n g fo r th e

.
,

skipp e r t o c o me o ff o r (a s h e e xpl a i n e d it o n h i s a rriva l ) fo r

,

th e w i n d With a fair bre e z e a n d pl e n ty o f se a ru n n i n g we

.
,

ste e r e d o n t h e 1 0 th fo r So uak i n o n th e o pp o site c o a st , Th e .

d e scripti o n we h a d r e c e ive d o f o ur b o a t wa s in so me re sp e cts

tru e i n o the rs v e ry fal se : sh e wa s l o n g a n d n a rr o w a n d e ve n
, , ,

whe n la d e n re ma rk ably high o ut o f wa te r

,
H e r o wn e r a p .

p e a re d t o ha v e g a i n e d s o m e id e a s fro m t h e I n di a n tra d e r s

wh o fre qu en t t h e p o rt o f J e dd a fo r h e r rig h a d so me s ma ll ,

a ffin ity t o th a t o f a briga n ti n e ; i t wa s a hybrid b e twe e n th a t

class o f v e sse l an d a fe lucca H e r saili n g qua litie s we re n o t

.

a lt o g e th e r o v e rra t e d fo r wh e n ru n n i n g sh e was d e cid e dly

,

fas t th o ugh sh e wa s sa dly wa n ti n g wh e n th e win d wa s a n y

,

”
thin g but a puppa I n th e se c a se s sh e fully a n swe re d th e
.

purp o se s o f a ba thin g ma chi n e b e i n g as o fte n u n d e r wa t e r a s

,

a b o v e it F o r h e r o th e r qu a liti e s h e r gre a t safe ty a pp e a re d

.
,

t o d e p e n d o n h e r b o tto m b e i n g c o n st ruct e d much a ft e r t h e

’
fas hi o n o f t h e Iri sh man s sh o e s w hich h a d h o l e s i n th e so l e s
, ,

w h e re by t h e wa t e r ra n o ut a s fa st as it go t i n My a e c o m .

mo da t i o n wa s n o mi n a lly sup e ri o r t o tha t I e nj o ye d i n th e

B a khita fo r I h a d ha lf o f t h e c a bi n u n d e r t h e po o p th e o th e r
, ,

ha lf b e i n g o ccupi e d by so me sla ve s b e l o n gi n g t o a m e rcha n t

o n b o a rd B ut it mu st n o t b e un d e r st o o d th at t h e c a bin
.

wa s e l e ga n tly furn i sh e d a s i n a yacht o r st e ame r ; it wa s

,

m e re ly a sp a ce i n t h e ve ss e l th e b a re pla n k s which sur ,

ro u n d e d i t b e in g n o t e v e n p lan e d an d th e swa rms o f c o ck

ro a ch e s a n d o th e r i n se cts with which it wa s fill e d we re i ts
o n ly furn iture Th e wa n t o f a i r t o o re n d e re d it th e a b o d e
.
, ,

o f b a d s me ll s a n d e xc e ssiv e h e a t t h e fo rme r o f which w e re ,

p a rtly o wi n g t o a ve ry pri mitive so rt o f qu a rte r gall e ry th e ,

a cc e s s t o w hich was ju st a t my b e d h e a d D uri n g th e wh o l e -

.

o f t h e v o yage I pre fe rr e d sl e e pin g o n d e ck with th e o th e r

14 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . II .

p asse n ge rs Th e o n ly dra wba ck to thi s wa s th a t i n the

.

mo rn i n g we we re lite ra lly w e t thro ugh with th e d e w a n d ,

tha t th e fa c e ti o u s co ckro a ch e s a mu se d th e mse lve s gre a tly at

o ur e xp e n se fo r a waki n g i n th e n ight we we re s ure t o fin d
, ,

o n e p o ki n g i t s h e a d i n to e a ch n o stril o th e rs in t h e e a rs , ,

mo uth & c ,
a n d it wa s al mo st i mp o ssibl e t o dri n k fro m t h e
.
,

myri a d s which swa rme d o n th e mo uth s o f th e l e a th e r b o ttl e s

u s e d fo r ca rryi n g a n d c o o li n g wa t e r Th e fo o d w e a t e t o o
.
, ,

a n d e v e rythi n g e l s e was full o f th e s e di sgu s ti n g i n s e ct s

,
an d

n o t with st an di n g a ll t h e c a r e o f th e c o o k I s e ld o m s a t d o wn ,

t o di n n e r w i th o ut e a ti n g t wo o r thre e by mi sta k e e sp e ci a lly ,

i f st e we d p ru n e s t o whic h th e y n e a rly assi mil a te in si z e a n d

,

c o l o ur ha pp e n e d t o b e se r ve d
,
.

O n t h e 1 5 th we n e a re d So uakin A s we a rri v e d i n t h e
.

e v e n i n g w e l a y o ut s id e till mo r n i n g ; a n o th e r v e sse l la y n e ar
,

us o ut wa rd b o u n d
,
A ft e r we h a d b e e n a n ch o r e d s o me
.

ti me sh e se n t a b o a t o ff t o us re qu e sti n g me t o vi sit a
, ,

F re n ch ge n tl e man w h o wa s lyi n g o n b o a rd h e r s ick o f

a fe v e r I i mme di at e ly w e n t t o h im an d fo u n d it wa s a
.
,

M Vign o n wh o h a d b e e n fo r so me ti me i n A by ssi n i a as
.
,

draughtsma n t o a sci e n tific e xp e diti o n s e n t th e re fo r c o m ,

me rc ia l an d o th e r i n v e sti ga ti o n s H e h a d p o o r fe ll o w !
.
,

a lr e a dy l o st thr e e o f h i s c o mp a n i o n s by ill n e ss o r a ccid e n t ,

o n e o n ly b e sid e s hi mse l f survivi n g H e h ad mo u n t e d a .

dro m e d a ry t o vi sit so me r ui n s n e a r So uakin ; t h e a n i mal

w a s y o u n g a n d h o t a n d h e b e i n g u n a ccu sto m e d t o c a m e l
, ,

ridi n g wa s th ro w n o n h i s ch e st
,
I n th e se cli ma t e s a littl e
.

thi n g i s su ffic i e n t t o p ro duc e fe v e r a n d I fo u n d h i m lyi n g o n

,

t h e d e c k e v i d e n tly i n a h o p e l e ss sta t e
,
I fu rn i sh e d h im .

with s o m e m e dici n e a n d o th e r littl e c o m fo rt s which h e as ke d

o f m e a n d l e ft h i m l a t e pr o mi si n g t o vi sit h i m i n t h e m o m
, ,

i n g e a rly a s h e w i sh e d t o b e bl e d
,
I did n o t thi n k it wo uld
.

b e go o d fo r h i m but a s h e p e rsi st e d I pro mi se d t o c o me , ,

th o ugh I h a d re s o l ut e ly re fu se d t o bl e e d h im in t h e e v e n i n g ,

as t h e d e w w a s fa lli n g fa st a n d th e sun h a d l o n g s e t
, Th e .

fulfil me n t o f my p ro mi s e wa s h o we v e r p re ve n t e d ; fo r
, ,

tho ugh I k e pt wa tch a ll n igh t l e st I sh o uld o ve rsl e e p myse lf ,

’
a t thre e o cl o ck I s aw h i s v e ss e l m aki n g sa il a n d o ur b o a t, ,
16 LI F E I N AB YS S I N I A . C R AP l l . .

tire d o f t h e fun fain ti n g fro m l o ss of bl o o d o r gi ving up is

, , .

pro n o un ce d va n qui sh e d Whil e d o ct o rin g h im a bys tander

.
,

re marke d th at I sho uld b e c a re ful as th e pe o pl e o f So ukh n

'

Kn i fe worn b y t h e p l
eo p e o f So ualt l n .

l o o ke d up o n d o c t o rs as a lto ge the r re sp o ns i ble

o f th e i r p a ti e n ts
. I was t o ld tha t a Syri an , wh o
h is b ra i n s might ai d h i m t o fill h is
a d o c to r i n th ese o ut o f th e wa y
- - -

t h e fir st pa ti e n ts h e wa s ca ll e d upo
wh o h ad suffe re d s o me se ve re a ccid e n t th e d oc to r apph m
t h e l a n ce t an d in a fe w mi n ute s a fte r t h e ma n di e d
, Th e .

fri e n d s o f t h e d e c e ase d t oo k th e po o r d oc t o r wh o hm g ,

j udge d by pub lic o pin i o n to b e guil ty o f t h e patie n t s da m

,
’

was c o n d emn e d t o d i e an d so acco rdi n g t o my

,

t he y t o o k h im o uts id e t h e t o wn an d cho p pe d hi m i n to small

,

pi e c es
.

Th e i n h a bi tan ts o f So ukki n a n d its n e igh bo urh o o d are

ca lle d Ha d as ha ,
a n d th e i r l anguage H ad a n dhwy The i r .

o rigin is pro b a bly th e sa me as th a t o f t h e gre a t tri b e o f

B i sh ari n which i n habits th e wh o le o f th e easte rn

, n c a

fro m Uppe r Egypt to t h e n o rth e rn fro n ti e r o f A byss in ia In

man n e rs appe a ran c e an d costume ho we ve r like th e In!
, , , ,
C HAP . II . F I SH M A S S A WA . 17

ha bitan ts o f mo st co mme rci a l se ap o rt t o wn s i n the se co u n

tri e s th e y diffe r co n side ra bly fro m th e pa re n t sto ck o win g
, ,

t o th e ir i n t e rc o urse with o th e r n a ti o n s fro m wh o m th e y h a ve ,

bo rro w e d n o t o n ly so me id e a s but al so so me blo o d Ivo ry

, ,
.
,

o stri ch fe a th e rs an d such like pro duc e bro ught fro m t h e i n

-
,
-
,

t e ri o r by th e A ra b s a pp e a r t o b e amo n g t h e prin cip a l

,

a rt icl e s o f e xp o rt tra d e Th e fo rme r are bro ught fro m all

.

p a rt s o f N ubia an d ma n y o f th e H a darb a (a truly co mme r

,

c ia l ra c e
)g o e v e n t o M u ss e la my a o n t h e B lu e N il e a n d t o , ,

K o rd o fan t o ma ke th e ir purch a se s .

O n th e 1 7 th w e sa il e d but a s n o t un fre que n tly o ccurs to ,

a tr a v e ll e r wh o i s an xi o u s t o re a ch h i s d e sti n a ti o n t h e wi n d , ,

which h a d be e n i n a fa vo u ra bl e qua rte r so l o n g a s we re

ma in e d i n p o rt shi fte d ab o ut t h e day we se t sa il
,
Th e .

we a th e r was ho we v e r ve ry fin e so me ti me s quite ca l m an d
, , , ,

so o f an e v e n i n g we a mu se d o urse lv e s by fi shi n g O n e n ight .

we c a ugh t thirty o n e ro ck c o d av e ragi n g ab o ut r z lb s e a ch

- -

,
.
,

a n d a fe w mo re fish o f a l a rge r s iz e but in fe ri o r quality , .

Th e c o d are re d c o l o ure d like mull e t a n d a re e ste e m e d t h e

-
,

b e s t fish o f t h e R e d Se a th e y are h o we ve r but p o o r fla bby , ,

thi n gs c o mp a re d with th e fish o f o ur co ld e r l atitud e s N um

, .

b e rs o f sh a rks we re in ca lm we a th e r t o b e se e n a bo ut t h e
v e sse l but fro m wan t o f pro p e r ta ckl e we did n o t succe e d in
,

ca tchi n g an y o f th e m th o ugh o n e hu n gry fe llo w ran o ff with

,

t h e h o o k an d p a rt o f a li n e .

A t l e n gth we a rriv e d o n e fin e e v e n i n g i n th e b ay o f
Ma sshwa I tu mbl e d i n t o a b o a t a n d go t o n sh o re i mme
.
,

d i a t e ly . On th e b e a ch I wa s a cc o st e d by a qu e e r l o o kin g -

w hite man wh o h ad c o me d o wn t o i n quire fo r l e tt e rs o r

,

me s sa g e s fro m J e dd a o r C a iro H e a ddr e sse d me in pr e tty .

go o d I talia n an d I re me mb e re d that Mr Ogilvy h a d t o ld

, .

m e o f a Je w n ame d An ge l o wh o h e d o ubt e d n o t wo uld put ,

m e in t h e way o f a n yt hin g I wan t e d at M a ssawa O n my .

i n quiri n g fo r l o dgi n gs h e in vit e d me t o p ass th e n ight a t th e

h o u se o f t h e F re n ch co n sula r a ge n t which h e h a d i n ch a rge ,
’
durin g i t s o wn e r s ab se n ce I a cce pte d h i s in vita ti o n a n d
.
,

w e s ta rt e d fo r th e t o wn O n th e way h e sugge st e d th a t it
.

wo uld b e a s we ll t o pay o ur r e sp e ct s t o h is Exc e l le n cy t h e

c
18 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . II .

Go v e rn o r, an d turn e d d o wn a n arro w la n e ti ll we
so we
a rri ve d a t h i s r e s id e n c e We we re sh o wn in to a sh e d sur
.
,

ro u n de d by a so rt o f mud b e n ch o n w hi ch we re s qu a tt e d a ,

n u mb e r o f sa il o rs me rcha n t s an d o t he rs
,
Th e t h e n Go ve r
, .

n o r (o r a s h e i s ca ll e d K ai magam o f Mas shwa was a

white sl a ve o f t h e P a ch a o f J e dda n ame d R ust o um Aga ,

.

Th e ra n k o f K aimagh m i s in th e re gula r Turki sh o r Egyptian

a rmy e quiv a l e n t t o Li e ut e n an t C o l o n e l but i n th e irr e gul ar
-
,

tro o p s me r e ly me an s a p e tty go v e rn o r o r tax c o lle cto r o f a -

—
village h i s ran k o f c o urse d e p e n din g o n th e a mo u n t o f
,

a utho rity h e ca n e xe rci s e an d t h e n umb e r o f tro o p s u n de r

h i s c o mman d . R ust o um Aga h a s thirty Alban ia n s with h im .

I n t h e pro vi n c e s o f Se n n aa r e a ch village h a s i t s K ai ma ghm ,

wh o i s me r e ly a pri va t e so ldi e r in t h e se rvi ce o f t h e C ash if

o f t h e di strict H i s Exc e ll e n cy re c e ive d us but c o o lly
. .

An ge l o we n t t o h i m an d sp o ke o n bu sin e ss o f h i s o wn while ,

I wa s l e ft t o fin d a se a t a mo n g th e sa il o rs a t th e o pp o site
e n d o f t h e ro o m Th e fa ct i s my c o stu me was n o t th e
.
,

mo st e l e ga n t ; an d a s i n a ll c o un tri e s p e o pl e a re j udge d
,

e ith e r by th e ir dre ss o r by th e ir c o mp a n y it was n o t lik e ly ,

tha t R usto um wo uld fo rm a v e ry high o pin i o n o f me ap ,

p e ari n g a s I did Afte r ha vi n g ma d e o ur sa lam we pro ce e d e d

.

’
to t h e F re n ch c o n sul s t o wn h o u s e Like a ll th e b e s t h o u se s
-
.

in M a ssawa it c o n si st e d o f a large ya rd i n which we r e a

, ,

s qu a re buildi n g o f ro ug h s t o n e a s a wa re h o u se fo r go o d s
, ,

a n d a fe w w ick e r sh e d s fo r dwe lli n g Th e i n fe ri o r ho u se s .

a re a ll o f t h e l a tt e r cl a ss Th e first i mpre ssio n o n e n a tu ra lly

.

re c e iv e s i s th a t th e ir o wn e rs mu st b e ve ry ign o ra n t o f a rchi
t e cture but th e cli ma t e h a s t aught the m tha t she d s to l e ra bly
,

w e ll th a tch e d an d with th e sid e s e ith e r e n tire ly o r n e arly

,

O p e n a re th e o n ly ha bita bl e h o u se s To wa rds th e la tter

, .

e n d o f t h e m o n th o f Ma I h a v e k n o wn t h e th e rm o me ter
y
°
ri s e t o a b o ut 1 2 0 F a hre n h e it in th e sha d e an d i n July an d ,

A ugu st it ran ge s much h igh e r Such a cli ma t e i s o f c o urse

.

mo st u n h e a lthy — e sp e ci a lly s o duri n g t h e su mme r m o n th s

, ,

wh e n a n u mb e r o f d a n ge ro u s di se a se s pre va il such a s d yse n ,

t e ry a n d t h e u su a l fe v e rs o f th e tro pica l co u n t ri e s The .

i sl an d is a m e re ro ck o f c o ral wi th o ut a v e stige o f v e ge tati on

,
C H AP . II . MA S S A WA C OS TUM E . 19

t o e n live n i t s b are Th e re are ci ste rn s fo r co ll e cti n g

fa c e .

t h e ra i n wa te r (n o spri n g e x i sti n g) but mo st o f th e se h av e

-
,

b e e n all o we d t o fall in to di su se an d t h e i n habita n t s o f t h e ,

i slan d are o bliged t o tru st t o Arkiko a village o n t h e ma i n ,

la n d di sta n t s o me thre e o r fo ur mil e s fo r th e ir supply Thi s

, ,
.

wait e r mo re o v e r i s ra t h e r bra cki sh

, , Th e e xtr e me h e a t o f .

t h e pl a ce wo uld n o t app e a r e xtra o rdi n a ry t o an y o n e a c

q u a i n t e d w i t h i t s p o si t i o n M ass hw a i s O p e.n o n t h e o n e

s id e t o th e s ea whil e th e o th e r i s shut i n by a n a mphith e a tre

—
,

o f di s tan t hill s suffici e n tly n e a r h o we v e r t o pre v e n t i t s

, , ,

re c e i v in g a bre a th o f air fro m th a t dire ctio n but o n th e , ,

c o n tra ry t o c o ll e ct a s it we re th e ra ys o f th e sun i n t o t h e
, , ,

n a rro w s lip o f l an d th e y e n cl o se .

Th e vi llage i s si tu a t e d o n t h e we s te rn e xtre m ity o f th e

i slan d which i s sca rce ly a mile lo n g me asure d fro m e ast t o
, ,

we s t by n o t quit e ha lf tha t bre a dth

,
Th e e a ste rn p o rtio n .

o f i t i s o c cupi e d by t h e buri a l gro u n d a gu a rd h o u se an d

-
,
-
,

th e ci st e rn s I ha v e ju st n o tic e d Th e c o stume o f t h e p e o pl e
.

i s a da pt e d t o th e clima te Out o f d o o rs th e me n we a r a
.

l o n g shirt an d so me e ve n a ca ftan o f silk o r clo th Th e ir

, .

head d re ss c o nsi st s e ith e r o f a ta rb irsh (o r re d ca p) o r o f a n

-
,

e mbr o id e re d whit e skul l ca p wra pp e d r o un d with a mu s li n

-
,

turb a n I n d o o rs mo st o f the se a rticle s o f sho w are l a id

.

as id e ,
th e y w e a r a light co tto n n a pki n ab o ut the ir lo in s
’
an d a skull ca p o n th e ir h e a d s
-
Th e n stre tche d o n a se m r
.
,

a pi e c e o f hid e o r a ma t
( o r c o uch ) c o v e re,d w ith th e y ,

ta ke a n a t ur al h ot a i r ba th Th e wo me n a re a s lightly cla d
-
.

a n a p k in o f strip e d c o tt o n r o u n d th e ir l o i n s a n d w h e n o ut ,

mila ya (o r sh e e t) with which th e y

”
o f d o o r s a la rge blu e ,

co ve r th e mse lve s a fte r th e man n e r o f al l wo me n o f th e Ea st ,

b e in g th e ir co stume .

Th e p e o pl e o f Ma sshwa a re as wo uld b e n a t urally e x ,

t d ra th e r we a k an d wan ti n g i n e n e rgy Th ir ub i t
p e c e , , e s s s .

e n ce i s d riv d e tir e ly ro
e e n f m m —
co me rc e a li n e o f li fe ,

pa rticul a rly suit e d t o such a cli ma t e a s a ffo rdi n g th e m me a n s ,

o f e mpl o y i n g an d a mu si n g th e mi n d whil e a t t h e sa me ti m e ,

t h e b o dy i s e n j o yi n g o tiu m c um dign ita t e str e tch e d o ut ,

o n t h e be n ch e s o f a ca fé I h av e h e ard man y Euro p e an s

.

C 2
20 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . II .

s pe a k o f th e se ve re e ffe ct t h e h e a t ha d o n th e m St ra n ge to .

sa y ,
duri n g t h e sh o rt time I p a sse d a t Masshwa I n e ve r
su ffe re d a t a l l Th e wh o l e day wa s sp e n t by me i n run n i n g
.

a b o ut e ith e r c a tchi n g i n s e ct s i n t h e sun o r o th e rwi se a c ti v e ly

, ,

e mpl o yi n g myse l f whil e my s e rva n t s we re thr o wn d o wn 1n

,

t h e s ha d e wi th t h e p e rspira ti o n run n in g o ff th e m 1n s t r e ams .

A ft e r I h a d b e e n two d ay s a t Mas shwa t h e h o use o f ,

H o u ss ei n Effe n di scrib e to th e Go ve rn me n t wa s pro cure d

, ,

fo r me It wa s situat e d o n th e se a sho re a n d c o n si s t e d o f
.
-
,

ma ra bba (a sq uare
”
t wo c o urts o n e o f which c o n ta i n e d a
,

s t o n e maga zi n e ) a n d a wick e r s h e d th e o t h e r h a d t wo mo re
sh e d s pl e a sa n tly s itua te d o n t h e b e a ch
, On e o f th e se la tte r .

’
h a d b e e n l a t e ly e re cte d fo r th e we ddi n g o f th e Effe n di s so n .

I t wa s v e ry t a st e ful ly built an d a t o n e e n d was t h e bridal

,

c o uch p e rch e d up se ve ra l fe e t ab o ve t h e gro un d lik e t he

, ,

b e rth o f a st e a me r an d h a vin g a sma ll e n t ran c e l i ke a

,

pige o n h o u se I t s s id e s w e re n e a tly ma d e o f ca n es la id so
-
.
,

a s t o fo rm v a ri o u s p a tt e rn s This b ut h ad a win d o w o n t o
.

t h e se a a n d w as a b o ut th e o n ly pl a c e wh e re I c o uld o btai n
,

a bre a th o f a i r duri n g m w h o l e s t a y a n d th a t t o o w a s
y ; , ,

v e ry wa rm Th e s to n e marab b as o f which I h a ve s p o ke n
.

a re built a s a pr o t e cti o n a ga i n st fire ; fo r th e re s t o f t h e

t o wn b e in g fo rme d e n tire ly o f sticks an d stra w it i s n o t at ,

a ll w o n d e rful th a t e v e ry n o w a n d th e n t h e wh o l e i s burn t t o

t h e gro u n d It wo uld h o w e ve r b e i mp o ssible t o liv e in

.
, ,

s t o n e wall s H a vi n g o n e day t o a rra n ge so me o f my go o ds

.

fo r c o n ve n i e n c e i n tra ve lli n g w e wen t i n t o t h e maga zin e to

,

d o so . Th e h e a t wa s so o ppr e ssiv e th at my n a tiv e se rvan ts , ,

th o ugh stripp e d t o th e ski n (with th e e xc e pti o n o f a small

’
n a pki n fo r d e c e n cy s s a k e ) we re u n a bl e t o re ma i n m an y
,

mi n ut e s a t a ti me i n sid e Th e wh o l e furn iture o f my r o o m

.

c o n si ste d o f th e b e fo re me n ti o n e d se rrfr
“ -
”
Thi s i s a so rt .

o f c o uch o r s tre tch e r b e i n g a n o bl o n g fra me o f w o o d pl a c ed

,

o n fo u r l e gs a n d c o v e re d in so me c a s e s with strip s o f hid e

, ,

cro ssi n g o n e an o th e r so a s t o fo rm a s e a t o r o f c o rd s made ,

o f th e fibre s o f t h e d a t e p a l m Th e l a tt e r a re mo re u se d
-
.

by th e p e o ple o f th e A ra bi an c o a st Th e sa il o rs make .

t h e m v e ry n e a tly dye i n g th e co rd s o f va ri o u s c o lo urs

, ,
C H AP I I
. . MY C OS TUM E IN TH E EAS T . 21

an d the n pla cin g the m a cro ss th e se rrfr, so as to fo rm

p a tt e rn s
.

I p asse d t e n d ay s at M assawa whe n h avi n g co mpl e te d , ,

th e n e ce ssa ry a rran ge m e n t s I th o ught it ti me t o mak e a

,

s t a rt fo r th e in t e ri o r O n e p a rt o f th e s e a rran ge me n t s an d
.
,

t ruly a ve ry e sse n ti a l o n e wa s t o dive st myse l f o f e ve ry

,

n e e dl e ss in cu mbra n c e an d p a ck up my st o re s i n a sa fe pl a c e
, .

A c c o rd in gly my l ast a rt icl e s o f Euro p e an dre ss we r e o ffe re d

,

t o my fii e n d An ge l o a s a re co mp e n s e fo r h i s civili t y
,
I h ad .

al re a dy giv e n a way a l a rge p o rti o n a t C a iro a n d n o w po s ,

se ss e d o n ly thr e e Turki s h shirt s thre e p a ir s o f draw e r s o n e

, ,

s uit o f Turki sh cl o th e s fo r b e st o cc a s i o n s a p a ir o f sa n dal s , ,

a n d a re d c ap F ro m th e d ay I l e ft Su e z ( M a rch 2 5
.
,

till a bo ut t h e sam e ti me i n th e y e a r 1 8 4 9 I n e v e r wo re a n y ,

a rt icl e o f Eur o p e an dr e s s n o r i n d e e d e v e r sl e pt o n a b e d o f
,

a n y so rt,
— n o t e v en a ma ttre ss t h e utmo s t e xt e n t o f luxury
whi ch I e n j o ye d e v en wh e n all but dyi n g o f a p e stil e n tia l
,

fe v e r th a t ke pt m e five mo n th s o n my b e a m e n d s a t Kh a r -

to um was a co v e rlid u n d e r a rug Th e re d c ap I wo re o n

,
.

l e a v i n g Mas shwa was so o n bor r ow ed o f me an d th e san da ls ,

aft e r a m o n th w e r e giv e n up an d so fo r m o re th an thre e

,

ye a r s (th a t i s till I re a ch e d Kh a rt o u m) I wo re n o co ve rin g

t o my h e a d e xc e pt a littl e butt e r w h e n I c o uld ge t it
, , n or
’
t o my fe e t e xc e pt t h e h o rn y so l e which a fe w mo n th s ro ugh
,

u sage pla ce d u n d e r the m D uri n g th e who l e o f thi s time I

.

n e v e r h a d a h e a d a ch e th o ugh e xp o se d t o th e sun a t all

,

ho urs o f th e day an d was n e ve r fo o t so re tho ugh I wa lke d

,
-

co n s tan tly i n th e ro ughe st i magi n abl e pl ace s .

22 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P I I I
. .

C H A PTE R I I I .

E leph a n ts —Li o ns .

I H AD ma d e up my min d vi sit t o A il a
t o pay a sh o rt a t —
—
,

n
’
h o t min e ra l spri g a d a y s j o urn e y fro m M as sh w a fo r th e ,

sa k e o f t h e sh o o ti n g fo r which th a t n e ighb o urh o o d i s j u st ly

c e le bra te d I a cco rdi n gly se n t fo r th e N ai b (0 1 G o ve rn o r

.

o f th a t p a rt o f t h e ma i n l an d which li e s a l o n g t h e c o a s t i m

me dia te ly o pp o site t o M a ssawa an d which h a s fo r a l o n g ,

time p a st b e e n c o n sid e re d as tributa ry t o th e Ott o man

e mpire ) i n o rd e r t o mak e fri e n d s with h im a n d a t t h e sa me
, ,

ti me d e man d h i s assi sta n ce in pro curin g fo r me ca me l s to

ca rry my b aggage a mul e t o ca rry myse l f an d a guid e fo r
, ,

th e wh o l e c o n c e rn It i s cu sto ma ry fo r e v e ry tra v e ll er
.
,

wh e th e r n a tiv e o r fo re ign e r wh o ma y h a v e t o p a ss t h e
,
’
N ai b s t e rrito ry e i t h e r i n co min g fro m A byssin i a to M a ssawa
'

, ,

o r t h e r e v e rse t o t ak e a guid e fro m t h e a b o rigi n e s wh o

, ,
” ”
a re ca ll e d Sa h o
“
or Sh o h o fo r which h e p a ys h alf a
,

d o lla r Th i s ta x i s a re gul ar imp o siti o n t h e ro a d b e in g

.
,

n e ith e r d a n ge r o u s n o r di f ficult t o fin d ; but a s by t hi s

cus to m mo n e y i s bro ught i n to t h e c o u n try a n d pr o ba bly ,

a l so i n t o th e h a n d s o f th e N a1b n o d o ubt h a s a go o d
( h
'‘

w o , ,

u n de rsta n di n g with th e D e lll l o r Me rrah l t as th e guid e ,

i s ca ll e d) it i s n o t a ll o we d t o b e give n up Th e th e n N ai b
’

, .

Y e hya wa s an o l d ma n sa id t o b e fri e n dly t o th e En gli sh

,

in t e re st ; but b e in g fro m h is age mo re o r l e ss i n ca p a ci ta te d

fo r bu si n e ss h i s so n Mo h amme d l o o k e d a fte r t h e go v e rn
,

me n t i n h is st e ad in which i n d e e d t h e fa th e r h a d o n ly b e e n
,

l a t e ly re in sta te d h avin g fro m p o litica l mo tive s b e e n sup e r

,

se de d fo r so me ti me by h i s riva l N ai b H assan M o hamme d

'

.
24 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P I I I
. .

t h e se a ru n s i n like a cre e k an d se e in g a c o p se o f fin e b ay
, ,
’
tre e s o ve rhan gi n g t h e wat e r s e dge a ud so co mple te ly sur ,

ro un di n g an d sha di n g a littl e co rn e r as e n ti re ly t o scre en

a n y o n e wh o might ba t h e i n it b o th fro m t h e v i e w o f pa sse rs

b y a n d t h e mo re t ryi n g gl an c e o f th e sun a bo v e I t o o k th e ,

o pp o rtu n ity o f r e fre shi n g my se lf a n d p ayi n g t o t h e salt

wa t e r my l ast vi sit fo r ma n y ye a rs Th e wa te r was a b o ut .

five fe e t d e e p with a smo o th san d b o tt o m

,
N o thin g c o uld .

b e m o r e d e lici o u s — far pre fe ra bl e t o th e fi n e st marble

,

s wi mmi n g b a th i n Euro p e
-
H a vi n g ba the d I pro ce e d e d o n
.
,

my way an d so o n afte r sa w t h e man wi th th e ca me ls de

,

sc e n di n g t o me e t us a t t h e p o i n t wh e re we l a n d e d : te lli ng

h im t o fo ll o w wit h my se rva n t as fa s t as p o s sibl e an d ,

i n quiri ng i f I wa s in th e right ro a d to wh ich h e re pli e d All ,

“

right I c o n ti n u e d my ma rc h I trudge d o n firll o f e very

,
”
.
,

thi n g I saw ti ll o n arrivi n g a t th re e ro ad s I fo u n d myse lf

, , ,

a t a l o ss which t o pursu e a s th e y all a pp e a re d t o ta ke

,

n e arly t h e sa m e dire cti o n : s o re me mb e ri n g t h e o l d a d a e , g ,

m e di o tut i ssi mus ibi s

”
“
I ch o se t h e ce n tre o n e whi ch
, ,

se e me d t o b e t h e mo st tro dd e n o r ra th e r like D o n ,
’
Q u ix o t e s g o o d o ld h a ck I t o o k t h e fir ,
s t th a t c a m e a n d ,

fo ll o w e d it til l I sudd e n ly o b se rve d th a t t h e sun w as go n e

d o wn ; a n d a s i n th e se co u n tri e s the re i s n o t wil ight to
s p e a k o f it struck me th a t I h a d n o ti me t o l o se i f I did n o t
,

w i s h t o b e ca ught i n th e d a rk I the re fo re quick e n e d my

.

st e p till h a l f a n h o ur a ft e rwa rd s fi n di n g n o Mo n c ull o u n o r

, , ,

a n y so u n d o r si gn o f hu ma n ity t o wa rra n t me i n th e sup o

p
s i t i o n th a t I was n e a r it I c o n clud e d tha t I h a d o ve rs h o t
,

my ma rk fo r a t Ma ssaw a I h ad b e e n i n fo rme d tha t it was

,
’
o n ly an h o ur s j o urn e y wh e re as I h a d b e e n wa lki n g fa st fo r
,

d o ubl e that ti me I the re fo re d e cid e d o n e mpl o yin g t h e

.

l ast re mn an ts o f light in pre p a rin g myse l f so m e c o m e r

wh e re i n t o sl e e p a n d wa s ju st p o ki n g a bo ut with thi s i n t e n
,

ti o n wh e n I h e ard vo ic e s a ppro a chi n g me an d ru n n i n g ,

t o w a rd s the m wa s me t by fiv e littl e sla ve girl s re turn i n g t o -

t h e vill ag e with w o o d th e y h a d b e e n c o l le cti n g I ae co m .

p a n i e d th e m an d i,
n a s h o rt ti m e a rriv e d a t t h e h o u se o f
C HA P . III . S N AKE S . 25

Hu ssien Effe n di wh e re ha vi n g b e e n pro vid e d with milk

, ,
’
an d o the r re fre sh m e n ts I wa s t o ld th a t t h e F r e n c h C o n sul s
,

la dy ha d se n t t o re qu e st me t o pa ss th e n ight a t h e r h o use ,

w hi t h e r my be as t s h a d pre c e d e d me .

B ut I mu st me n ti o n a littl e a dv e n ture which I h a d wh e n

’
within a fe w hu n dre d p ac e s o f Hu ssei n Effen di s h o u se ,

a n d w hich might h a v e pro v e d di s agr e e a bl e It ha pp e n e d .

tha t I wa s walki n g with o n e o f t h e littl e girl s in a dva n ce o f

t h e o th e r s wh e n putti n g my fo o t ( which with t h e e xce pti o n
, , ,

o f san d a l s was quit e b are ) n e a r a n o bj e ct th a t i n t h e du sk

,

h a d t h e a pp e aran c e o f a bit o f stick o r a sto n e I was ,

s ta rtle d by fe e li n g so me thi n g co ld glid e o v e r it a n d , ,

turn i n g sa w a sma ll s n a ke wrigglin g o ff as quickly a s po s

,

s ibl e i n t h e dire cti o n o f t h e o th e r girl s wh o o n se e i n g it , , ,

ra n aw a y scre a mi n g F ro m wh a t littl e I c o uld di sti n gui sh

.

o f i t s fo rm a n d c o l o ur it se e me d t o a n sw e r t h e d e scripti o n
,

I h a d h e ard o f th e c e ra st e s o r ho rn e d vip e r which i s a bo ut

, ,

a fo o t an d a h a l f l o n g ra the r th ick fo r i ts l e n gth an d o f a

, ,

dirt y du s ty co l o ur mo ttl e d Th e h o rn s are n e a rly o v e r th e

, , .

e ye s a n d a b o ut t h e e ighth o f a n i n ch i n l e n gth
,
Thi s is .

co n sid e re d o n e o f th e mo st v e n o mo u s o f th e sn a ke trib e ,

an d th e y a re v e ry n ume ro u s i n thi s n e ighb o urh o o d I tri e d .

t o ki l l it but with o ut succ e ss a s a ssi st ed by t h e d a rkn e ss it

, , , ,

t a w a y am o n g t h e u n d e rwo o d a n d gra ss
g o .

’
M a da me de Go uti n th e C o n sul s l a dy re c e iv e d me with
, ,

th e u t mo s t p o lite n e ss ; a n d a ft e r h a vi n g give n me my
supp e r e n t e rta i n e d me with a gre a t d e a l o f u se ful a n d
,

in te re s ti n g info rmati o n o v e r a shi sha o r wa te r pip e I

, ,
”
-
.

to ld h e r o f my e sca p e fro m th e vip e r an d h o w much I h ad ,

b ee n surpri se d t o me e t with o n e so so o n a ft e r my la n di n g ,

as I h a d h e a rd i n Egypt th a t but fe w we r e t o b e fo u n d i n

A bys sin i a Sh e r e pli e d th a t a lth o ugh sca rc e ly e v e r se e n in

.
, ,

th e highl a n d s ye t i n t h e lo w h o t di strict s such a s t h e

, , ,

n e ighb o urh o o d o f Mo n cull o u th e y e xi st i n gre a t n u mb e r s

, ,

much t o t h e an n o yan c e o f t h e i n h abita n t s ; th a t Mo n si e ur

d e Go ut i n h ad b e e n bitt e n by o n e o f th e sa m e sp e ci e s a n d
t h at alt h o ugh re c o ur se was i mme di a t e ly h a d t o t h e pr o p e r
,
26 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P I I I. .

re me di e s th e ve n o m h a d fo r so me time a se ve re e ffec t on
,

h i s ge n e ral he a lth It wo uld b e highly da n ge ro u s t o n e glect

.

a bit e o f thi s o r an y o th e r v e n o mo u s sn ak e Ma dame de .

G o uti n to ld me tha t in ca se s wh e re th e p e rso n s b i tt e n do

n o t ta k e pr e ca uti o n s i n ti me haemo rrha ge e n sue s on the ,

s e c o n d da y an d t h e bl o o d fl o ws fre e ly fro m t h e n o s e e yes

, , ,

mo uth a n d e v e ry p o re o f th e skin : it ma y e a s ily b e

,

i magi n e d th at whe n in such a sta te an e xtra o rdi n ary doctor

, ,

a n d s till mo re e xtra o rdi n a ry re me di e s mus t b e r e qui re d t o

e ffe ct a cure Sh e al so i n fo rme d me tha t th e ga m e o f the

.

c o u n try i s v e ry abu n dan t an d o f great va rie ty fr o m th e

, ,

e l e pha n t t o t h e sma ll a n d b e a utiful ga z e ll e ca ll e d h ere ,

”
th e B e n i I sra el El e phan t s an d li o n s ge n e ra lly c o n fin e
.

the mse lve s t o th e l e ss in ha bite d co u n tri e s ab o ut A i la t an d ,

t h e b a ckwo o ds a t a di st a n c e fro m t h e p o pul o u s d i stri cts .

Th e y ho we ve r o cca si o n a lly v e n ture d o wn e ve n as far as

, ,

Mo n cullo u A sh o rt time si n ce an e l e phan t o n m e e ting

.
,
”
tw o sh an ga ll a s o r n e gro sl a v e s b e l o n gi n g t o a n i n h a bit
, ,

a n t o f thi s vill age wh o se o ccup a ti o n s h a d l e d th e m a litt le

,

fa rth e r i n to t h e wo o d s th an u su a l t o o k o n e o f th e m up with ,

h i s tru n k thre w h im i n t o th e a ir an d o n h i s fa lli n g to th e

, , ,

gro u n d go re d h im with h is tu sks an d trampl e d o n h im till

,

t h e p o o r wre tch wa s re duc e d t o an u n d is ti n gui sh a bl e mass .

H i s c o mpa n i o n ma d e t h e b e st o f h i s wa y h o me an d a rri ving ,

bre a thl e ss fro m fe a r a n d ru n n in g to ld t h e sad fa te o f hi s

, ,

fe ll o w sl av e an d c o n duct e d s e v e ral p e rso n s t o t h e s po t

, ,

wh e re th e y fo u n d t h e b o dy i n th e st a t e d e scrib e d Th e .

e l e ph an t h o we v e r wa s go n e
,
a n d n o o n e ga v e hi m se lf t h e
, ,

tro ubl e t o pursu e h im v e ry far in th e ju n gle .

O n a n o th e r o cc a si o n two w o rthy me rchan t s w e re r e t urn ing

i n t h e e v e n i n g t o Mo n c ullo u a ft e r ha vi n g fin i sh e d t h e aflai rs
'

o f t h e d a y a t Ma ssh wa an d o n ly o n e o f th e m b e i n g po s
, ,

se sse d o f a mul e h e a cc o mmo d a t e d h i s fri e n d w ith a se at

,

o n t h e crupp e r Th e y w e re a mblin g al o n g a t a c o m fo rta ble

.

’
p ac e n o d o ubt di scu ssi n g th e p a st da y s marke t wh e n o n
, , ,

sudd e n ly turn in g a c o rn e r fo rme d by so m e bu sh e s gro n

,

n e a r t h e r o ad si d e th e y b e h e ld t o the ir gre at di smay an

, , ,
C HA P . III . E LE PH A N TS LI ON S . 27

e no rmo u s li o n se ate d in th e middl e o f th e ro a d an d quie tly ,

’ ’
l o o ki n g at th e m A s B alaa m s as s o f o ld save d h i s mas te r s
.

li fe by s tan din g still so did th e mul e in qu e sti o n by run n in g

, ,

a wa y ,
a t a p a c e whi ch c o n sid e ri n g th e d o ubl e l o ad h e ,

ca rri e d w o uld ha ve b e e n a s t o n i shi n g un d e r an y o the r cir

,

c ums ta n c e s Th e li o n h o w e ve r a ppa re n tly p a id littl e o r

.
, ,
’
n o a tt e n ti o n t o th e ir mo ve me n t s As so o n as th e mul e s .

se n s e s an d th o se o f h i s ma st e r we re a littl e re st o re d t o th e ir

w o n te d e qu an imi t y th e y re tu rn e d by th e sa me ro a d an d o n , ,

re co n n o itri n g fo u n d that th e li o n h a d ta ke n himse l f o ff

, ,

l e a vin g t h e p assa ge fre e ; so th e y pro ce e d e d o n the ir way ,

co n gra tula ti n g th e mse lv e s o n the ir lucky e sca p e whe n ,

b e ho ld ha l f a mil e furth e r o n th e re was t h e li o n aga i n

, ,

s e a t e d in th e ro a d wa iti n g fo r th e m H o ld fa st sa ys he
, .

o f t h e sa ddl e t o h i m o f th e crupp e r an d awa y th e y go a t a

tan ge n t as b e fo re R e turn i n g a se c o n d time the y fo u n d

, .
,

th e ro a d cl e a r a n d pro c e e d e d h o me wa rd s
,
A s h o we v e r it .
, ,

was g e t ti n g d a rk th e y b e gan t o fe e l ra th e r a l a rme d

,
Fo r .

tun at e ly h o we v e r th e y did n o t se e t h e li o n aga i n ti ll th e y

, ,

we re n e a rly at h o me wh e n p e rc e ivi n g h im a t a sh o rt , ,

di sta n ce fr o m th e ro a d th e y d o dg e d h im an d by ta kin g a , , ,

circuito u s ro ute succ e e d e d in ge tti n g sa fe i n to the ir ho u se s

, .

Th e li o n so me time s v e n tur e s e v e n i n t o th e vi llage s On e .

’
n ight M o n si e ur d e G o ut i n s fa mily w e re awa k e n e d by a

tre m e n d o u s ye llin g a n d la ughin g o f hyae n a s o utsid e th e ir

ga te Th e n e ighb o urs calli n g o ut t o h im t o sho o t Mo n si e ur
.
,

de Go ut in fire d fro m withi n an d aft e rwa rd s w e n t o ut t o se e ,

th e e ffe ct o f h i s sh o t but was by n o me a n s a gr e e a bly sur

,

prise d o n fi n din g tha t a li o n wh o assiste d a t th e con versa ,

z i one was th e ca u se o f a ll th e hubbub th e hyae n a s ma ki n g

, ,

c o n t in ue d b ut in e ffe ctua l h o sti l e d e mo n stra ti o n s a ga i n st h i s

ro yal pe rs o n Th e C o n sul fi n di n g a gue st mo re tha n h e

.
,

h ad b a rga i n e d fo r re tire d qui e tly by th e wa y h e ca me

, ,

l e av in g t h e li o n wh o wa s t o o much o ccupi e d with h i s fo ur

,

fo o t e d e n e mi e s t o thin k o f a n ythi n g e l se .

With a n e cd o t e s such as th e se did my ki n d h o st e ss b e guil e

a way th e e v e n i n g an d it was n o t till midn ight th a t I was
,
.
28 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP I I I . .

abl e t o re tire t o my co uch whi ch I b e gge d to h av e pre

,

p are d fo r me o ut sid e with my pe o pl e in st e ad o f i n d o o rs as

,
-
,

I wa s to ri se e a rly i n o rd e r t o ge t as much as po ssible of

,

my j o urn e y d o n e b e fo re t h e h e a t o f th e d ay se t i n .So ,
’
with o ut ta kin g o ff my cl o th e s I lay d o wn t ill thre e o cl o ck
, ,

w h e n I was di sturb e d by th e me n pre p a ri n g t o s ta rt a n d in

,

a qu a rte r o f an h o ur a ft e rwa rd s we we re o n t h e ro a d
.
C H AP . IV . A PPE A RA N CE OF TH E C O UN TR Y . 29

C H APTE R I V .

Appea r a n ce f
o th e co un t r
y
—S en s a t io n s in a t ropic a l cl i ma te—A dven t ure
w it h a vi p er —A il a t Ga me—B oa r -s ta lhi ng —H ot s p r i n gs—N at ura l
w a r m ba th .

TH E c o u n try thro ugh which we passe d duri n g th e e arly p a rt

o f t h e d a y i s ro ugh wild an d in so me p a rt s ro cky an d
’

, , , ,

mo u n ta in o u s La rge tre e s a re rar e ly me t with n o thin g i n

.
,

fa ct but sh rub s a n d so me o f t h e di ffe re n t sp e ci e s o f th e

,

mi mo sa t rib e th e tall e st o f which se ld o m e xce e d twe n ty

,

fe e t. To t h e sp o rtsman I c o uld s ay mo re i n fa vo ur o f th e
’
co u n try B e fo re n in e o cl o ck we h ad sho g se v e ral gui n e a
.

fo wl a n d so me la rge bird s o f t h e p a rtridge o r gro u se kin d ,

an d h a d se e n se v e ra l ga z e ll e but th e s e we re t o o wild to ,

all o w us t o
g e t w ithi n s h o t o f th e m Th e r e a re a l s o n um .

b e rs o f j a ckal s which might a ffo rd sp o rt t o t h e fo x hu n t e r

,
-

we re n o t t h e c o u n try t o o di fli c ult t o rid e o v e r D urin g t h e .

mo rn i n g w e kill e d t wo sn ak e s O n e o f th e m wa s a vip e r .
,

o f a dirty bro wn i sh c o l o ur a b o ut a fo o t a n d a h a l f l o n g
, , ,

ve ry thick with a sh o rt tail an d its h e ad fl att e n e d as i f

, , ,

s o me o n e h a d a ccid e n t a lly put h i s fo o t o n it Th e o th e r .

was a s b e autiful a s t h e fo rme r wa s ugly It wa s a b o ut .

fi fte e n fe e t l o n g an d v e ry thin with a l o n g ta il ta p e ri n g t o

, ,

a p o in t I t s c o l o ur wa s a bright go ld e n y e ll o w with a d a rk
.
,

gre e n b a ck Th e vipe r wriggl e d h is du sty b o dy a l o n g th e

.

gro u n d with a h o riz o n tal mo v e me n t wh e re a s t h e o th e r as

, ,

if a fra id o f so ili n g h is bright gre e n an d go ld u n i fo rm mo ve d ,

i n gra c e ful s pira l u n dula ti o n s

,
.

’
To wa rd s n i n e o cl o ck we d e sce n d e d i n t o a thickly wo o d e d
valle y b o rd e re d o n e a ch sid e by ro cky hill s Our ro a d fo r
,
.

so me di sta n c e lay a l o n g t h e b e d o f a fo rme r to rre n t o f ,

3 0 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP I V
. .

which , as th e d ry l o n g se t in t he re re
se a so n was n ow ,

mai n e d but a sma ll rippli n g s tre am wh ich h e re t ri ckli n g o n , ,

a littl e the re l o sin g it se lf e n tire ly in t h e san d s t ill co n

, ,

t ain e d su ffici e n t wa t e r t o a ttra ct t o i ts e dge s e ve ra l so rts of

wild duck s an d ge e se — so me o f be a utiful plu mag e
, These .
,

alth o ugh o n e might h av e supp o se d th e m littl e a c c ust o me d

t o ma n a n d h i s tyra n n y w e re wise e n o ugh t o k e e p at a ,

re spe ct ful dis ta n ce flyi n g up th e stre a m as we a ppro a ched

,

th e m an d th e n se ttlin g aga in Th e ju n gl e wa s fill e d wi th

, .

bird s who se n o t e s va ryi n g in to n e fro m th e h arsh scream

, ,

m
”
o f t h e blu e j ay t o t h e so ft b e ll lik e n o t e o f t h e u il
go ra
-
a y ,

w e re t h e o n ly s o un d s h ea rd i n t h e v as t s o litud e No .

d e scripti o n ca n p o ssibly c o n v e y an ide a o f th e se n sa ti o n s of

o n e w h o fo r t h e first ti me fe e ls h i mse lf re a lly i n a t ro pical

c o u n try with a tro pica l v e ge ta ti o n

,
— th e burn in g sun t he ,

o ra n ge san d th e bright rich gre e n o f th e fo li a ge b o rd ered

—
, ,

by a sky o f t h e d e e p e st blu e witho ut a clo ud e v e ryt hi ng

so di ffe r e n t fro m o ur o w n chilly cli me whe re all n ature ,

a pp e ars lik e a .mo d e s t virgi n shro ud e d by a blu e h eav , y

h az e a s by a v e il which di ms an d o b scure s h er man y
,

b e auti e s a n d wh e n a s a n e xtra o rdin ary e ve n t t h e sun

, , , ,

shi n e s fre e fr o m mi st s a n d cl o ud s a pp e a rs t o d e tra c t fro m ,

h i s gl o ry a n d t o gi v e a c o ld blui sh ti n t t o e v e ry o bj e ct
,

illu mi n e d by h i s ra ys H e re o n t h e c o n trar y as if i n pride

.
, ,

o f h e r o wn l o v e li n e ss N a ture h a s cas t o ff th e v e il a n d le ft
, ,

a ll h e r gl o ri e s di sc o v e re d t o t h e w o n d e ri n g e ye s o f h e r t rue

a d mire rs wh o whil e th e ir w e ak o rga n s o f vi si o n a ll o w

, ,

the m ga z e e n ra p t ure d till th e y c an ga z e n o mo re ; an d

,

the n c o ve ri n g the ir e ye s w ith th e ir ha n d s an athe ma ti z e th e

, ,

gla re a n d h e a t a n d mak e fo r th e n e a re st she lt e r This was

,
.

t h e cas e wi th us a n d we w e re v e ry gl a d t o b e t o ld by th e
,

guid e tha t th e re wa s a sp o t clo se by co n v e n i e n t fo r its ,

sh ad e an d t h e v ici n ity o f a spri n g wh e re we might ta k e o ur ,

bre a kfa st an d re st durin g th e he a t o f t h e d ay So we

, .

a li ght e d c o ll e ct e d fu e l which w a s pl e n ti ful i n th e ju n gl e

, , ,

kin dl e d a fire an d pre pa re d t o co o k th e game we h a d s ho t

,

in th e mo rn i n g B ut a s smo k e an d fire a re n o t c o n ducive

.

t o c o mfo rt i n thi s clima te I re tire d t o a sh o rt dis tan c e an d

,
3 : LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . em . IV .

pro pe r se aso n fo un d a litt l e furth e r 06 an d b e asts o f prey ,

a re e ve ry wh e re t o b e me t wit h Th e h o t s prin g whi c h is

.
,

s i tu at e d a t s o me di sta n c e fro m t h e villa g e i s c o n s i d e re d to ,

b e a fav o ur it e haun t o f th e li o n O n th e ro ad c lo se b y a
.

man h ad b e e n kill ed by o n e ju st b e fo re o ur arriva l O f the .

an t e l o pe s t h e a ga z i n an d a ra b a re e sp e ci ally t o b e n o t i ce d
. ,

o n ac c o u nt o f t h e ir si z e Th e fo rme r i s d un c o l o ure d with

.
-
,

n a rro w wh i te pe n cill e d strip e s d o wn h i s sid e s h a s s pira l ,

h o rn s a n d is n e a rly th e h e ight o f a c o w Th e o th e r is
, .

a l mo st o f t h e same s i z e a n d o f a ye ll o wi sh re d c o l o ur The .

wil d b o a rs a re v e ry l arge an d h a v e re ma rka bly fin e tusks

, ,

a pa ir o f fo rmid a b l e o ne s fro m th e upp e r j aw a n d a smaller ,

p air fro m t h e lo we r The y d o n o t pro j e ct fo rwa rd li ke a

.
,
’
Cn ro pe a n b o a r s b ut gro w la t e ra lly t urn i n g o ve r th e sn o ut
, , ,

t ill in s o me c ase s th e y a l mo st me e t Th e u n d e r t us ks are .

thre e c o rn e re d sha rp edge d li ke a kn ife an d ada p t e d so as

-
,
-
,

al mo s t t o fit i n t o t h e sid e s o f th e upp e r o n e s .

O n e mo rn i n g I s e t o ut a l o n e (my se rvan t b e in g o c cupied

in stu ffin g so me s p e c i me n s which I h a d sh o t th e pre vious
e v e n i n g) o n a n e xcurs i o n i n se a rch o f t h e h o t wa t e r S prings -

o f whi c h I h a d h e a rd so muc h A littl e p a thwa y h a ving.

b e e n po i n te d o ut to me a s l e a di n g thithe r I fo ll o we d it till ,

it d i vid e d i n t o s e ve ral smalle r pa ths o n e o f which I t o o k ; ,

but fi n di ng t hat it d id n o t l e a d me right I struck a cro ss

, ,

amo n g t h e b u sh e s an d a rrive d a t t h e sp o t wh e re r e p o rt had

le d me to i magi n e th e spri n g wo uld li e I he re fo un d a .

littl e trickli ng stre a m win di n g it s way d o wn t h e v a ll e y I .

s e v e ra l ti me s wa lke d up a n d d o wn i t s c o urse a n d di s co ve re d ,

that a s ab o ve it i ssu e d fro m th e sa n d so a sho rt di s ta n ce

, ,

b e l o w it was agai n l o st i n it At la s t I me t with t wo .

Abyssin i an s but th e y b e in g as ign o ran t o f A ra bic as I was

,

o f th e ir lan guage mi su n d e rs to o d my qu e s ti o n s an d po in te d
, ,

in th e dire cti o n o f th e vill age Thi n kin g it p o ssibl e th at I

.

might ha ve p a sse d th e stre am I fo ll o we d th e ir i n d ica t i o n

, ,

a n d so wa n d e ri n g ba ck a ga i n fo r se ve ra l h o urs I was
, ,

a ttra ct e d by t h e firi n g o f gun s a n d a rriv ed a t th e vil lage ,

n e a rly d e a d fro m thirst a n d v e xa ti o n I fo un d my se rvan t .

i n a sta te o f gre a t a n xi e ty o n my a cc o un t H e h a d b e en .
C HAP . IV . N A TURA L WA R M B A TH .
33

on a l o n g but fruitl ess se a rch a ft e r me an d h ad n ea rly ,

iv n me up fo r l o st H a vi n g n a rra t e d my mi sa dv e n ture s
g e .

a n d d e s crib e d t o h im th e p o siti o n o f th e stre am h e t o ld me ,

th a t h a d I o n ly fo llo we d th e vall e y a fe w hu n dre d ya rd s

fa rt h e r up I sh o uld h av e c o me t o th e o rigi n a l so urc e an d
ba thi n g pla ce I ho we v e r d e te rmin e d n o t to ve n ture aga i n
-
.
, ,

a l o n e but to a cc o mp an y t h e pa rty o f b a th e rs w hich sta rt s

,

fro m th e villag e e v e ry mo rn in g b e fo re su n ri se A cc o rdi n gly .

n e xt m o rn i n g w e se t o ut a n d i n due ti me a rriv e d a t t h e
,

spo t , which i s situa t e d i n a n a rro w vall e y b e twe e n two

m o un ta i n s Th e sit e i s pictur e s qu e but t h e b a th s are
.
,

ra th e r t o o o p e n t o public vi e w an d t h e b a th e rs a re n o t
,

o v e r d e lica t e i n th e ir id e as
-
B o th s e xe s b a th e al mo st i n
.

t h e same pl a c e t h e me n lyi n g o n the ir b a ck s i n a b o ut n i n e

,

i n che s wa te r an d th e wo me n sitti n g i n a h o l e a b o ut te n
,

y a rd s b e l o w th e m M o s t o f th e w o m e n a n d a ll th e me n

W
.

e quite n ak e d so it m ay b e ima gi n e d th a t thi s s tyl e o f

b a t h i n g wo uld n o t al to ge th e r suit th e id e a s o f th e fre

q u e n t e rs o f B a th o r C h e lt e n h a m th o ugh i n th e se l,
a titud e s

such littl e n a turaliti e s are n o t o bj e ct e d to While t h e r e st .

o f t h e p a rty we r e thu s e n ga ge d n o t b e in g an xi o u s t o j o i n ,

th e m I wa lke d up th e v all e y an d h a d a go o d d e a l o f sp o rt
, ,

amo n g t h e fo wl an d o th e r ga me th a t we re sn e a kin g d o wn t o

t h e w a t e r t o drin k I n thi s way I a mu se d my se lf fo r n e a rly

.

two h o ur s ; an d wh e n I re turn e d I fo u n d a s I e xp e ct e d , , ,

tha t n o t o n ly we re all th e p e o pl e go n e but tha t th e wa t e r ,

h a d h a d ti me to re p o se : so I b ath e d co mfo rtably It w a s .

ho we v e r so h o t that n o twith stan di n g th e gre at h e a t o f th e

,

a tmo s ph e re an d t h e wa rmth o f my o wn b o dy fr o m wa lki n g ,

I fo un d it difli c ult a t first t o b e a r my fo o t in it I t ast e d .

th e wa te r an d a s far a s I c o uld gue ss sh o uld thi n k it

, , ,

co n ta in s bo th sulphur an d iro n It i s re cko n e d he re a .

ge n e ra l spe cific fo r all c o mpl ai n t s but mo re e sp e ci ally fo r ,

cuta n e o u s di se a se s man y ca se s o f which are i n c o n sta n t

,

a tt e n d a n c e P e o ple c o me fro m th e mo st di stan t p a rt s o f A by s

.

sin ia fro m th e i sl an d s a b o ut th e R e d Se a e v e n fr o m J e d d a
, ,

an d o th e r t o wn s o n t h e A ra bi an c o ast t o try i t s e fli c a c y , ,

an d g e n e ra lly fro m wh a t I h e a r r e turn we ll sa ti sfi e d

, ,
.

D
34 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . V
.

C H A PTE R V .

t—
’
I n h a bita n ts qf A i la rea d mB a h i n
g Th e
-
gue st s ch a mbe r a n d its

—
,

occu a n ts
p B edo ui n merch a n ts A perseveri ng ma ra ud er Grg a rio us
ha bi ts f —
th e people Mod e m pecul ia rit ie s qf fledi ng A Mosle i n —
—M d
o

w a he o e o f bur i a l —Afi i e a n res urr ertio n i st s.

TH E in habitan ts il t are B e d o uin s o f th e B e ll aw tribe

of A a ,

which o ccupi e s a ll th e tra ct o f c o u n t ry lyin g ab o ut A rk e e ko ,

a n d th en c e t o th e n e ighb o urh o o d o f Ai l a t Tho s e o f the .

la tte r di strict are by cas te mo stly so ldie rs if the y ma y b e so ,

de sign a te d The y are e asily di stin gui sh e d fro m th e i r more

.

p e ace ful bre thre n th e h e rdsme n by the ir we arin g th e ir hair ,

cl o se sha ve d whil e th e h e rd sme n a rran ge the ir bu s hy wi gs

,

i n tu ft s o r tre sse s o n th e h e a d The ir man n e rs are mo st .

pure ly p a st o ra l I n th e mo rn i n g th e y e at a litt l e bre a d and

.

milk a n d th e same si mpl e me a l re p e ate d i n th e e v e n in g

, ,

a n d se a so n e d with c o n t e n tme n t a n d a go o d a pp e tit e co m ,

pl e t e s th e ir da ily n o uri shme n t Th e ir brea d is ma d e b y th e .

w o me n i n th e fo ll o wi n g ma n n e r — Th e c o rn i s gro un d to
fl o ur b e twe e n t wo sto n e s — a la rge o n e ra the r h o ll o w e d o n
, ,

t h e surfa c e l a id o n t h e fl o o r a n d a small e r ro u n d pe bbl e

, , ,

by th e a i d o f which wo rk e d by th e han d th e c o rn i s rubb e d

, ,

d o wn . It i s so me time s p a sse d thro ugh a si e ve an d th e ,

c o arse r p a rt rubb e d d o wn agai n Th e siftin g an d s e co n d .

g ri n di n g a re h o we v e r
, se ld o m pr a cti
,
s e d T h e c o a rs e fl o u r .

thu s o bta in e d i s mad e i n to a stiff p a ste an d th e n fo rmed ,

in t o sma ll b all s which fl a tt e n e d b e twe e n th e p al ms o f th e

, ,

han d s are stuck ro u n d a n e a rth e n jar (h e at e d by b e ing

,

fille d with live charco a l) a n d l e ft the re till ba k e d which , ,

i s quickly a cc o mpli she d a s th e jar so o n b e c o me s n early

,

re d hot .

D uri n g o ur so o j urn at Ai l a t we we re l o dge d at th e h o use

C H AP . v B E D O UI N E N CA M PME N T .
35

o f a so rt o f chi e f o f th e village n ame d P akak H e re as

, .
,

i n A ra b c o un tri e s mo st stra n ge rs o n th e ir a rriva l at a ca mp

,
’
o r t o wn i n quire fo r t h e pri n cip a l man s re sid e n c e whe re ,

th e r e i s u sua lly a hut o r sh e d se t a pa rt fo r the ir re ce pti o n .

’
I n thi s gu e st s a p a rt me n t we we r e l o dge d with se ve ra l o the r
p e r s o n s o
, n e o f th e m a n e gr o w h o s e b e d w as pl a c,e d b e sid e

mi n e . H e was an e ld e rly man an d h a d c o me fro m D h ala k ,

( r e c o m m e n d e d n o,
d o ubt by t h e F a culty )
, t o try t h e e ff e ct
o f t h e b a thi n g fo r a n o ld chro n ic di se a se o f t h e ski n c al l e d
—
,
”
h e re i
H ku c k b y th e E n gli sh d o ct o r s sc a bi e s an d ,

m o re c o mmo n ly kn o wn in E n glan d by th e e uph o n i o u s

’’
s o br i quet o f S t ate} : fia a l e .

I t i s a pre tty sight t o se e th e se B e d o ui n s o r th e Sh o h o s

e n ca m p a ft e r a ma rch Ma n y pa rti e s o f th e m a rriv e h e re
.
,

c o m p o se d pri n cip a lly o f p e tt y m e rch a n ts p a ssi n g with th e ir ,

go o d s to an d fro m M a ssawa As th e y o n ly re ma in durin g .

t h e n ight th e y u sua lly ta k e up th e ir p o st i n t h e c o mp o un d

,

be fo re th e b ut a n d ha vi n g re lie ve d th e ir an ima l s o f the ir

, ,

burd e n s plac e th e baggage t o ge the r i n a he a p a n d sittin g

, , ,

ro un d it light a fire a n d pre pare th e ir pro vi si o n fo r th e

, ,

e ven in g . The y so me ti me s mak e th e ir bre a d th e mse l ve s ,

but fre qu e n tly th e wo me n o f th e h o u se a re go o d e n o ugh t o

d o it fo r th e m whil e t h e n e ighb o urs u su a lly c o n tribut e a
,

littl e milk t o ward s th e ir supp e r The ir me rchan di se i s c o m .

mo uly ca rri e d o n o x e n o r a sse s Th e fo rme r tho ugh rath e r .

,

smal l a re o f a pr e tty br ee d b e i n g v e ry fin e a b o ut th e h e a d
, ,

a n d le gs with a l a rge fo ld o f l o o se ski n ha n gi n g fro m t h e

,

n e ck ; s o me ha v e a l so a sma ll hu mp : th e y are c a p a bl e o f

ca rryi n g a c o n sid e rabl e l o a d o f b aggage an d thu s re n d e r ,

the mse lv e s use ful an d pro fita ble t o th e ir o wn e rs a t a ll se a so n s

o f th e y e a r e ith e r a t th e pl o ugh o r a s b e a st s o f burd e n
, .

On ce o n t h e a rrival o f a p a rty fro m A b yssitfia we we re

, ,

much a mu se d at th e co ura ge an d p e rse v e ran c e with which a

little bird (ve ry co mmo n i n th e se c o un tri e s) p e rsi st e d i n
an n o yi n g t h e an i mal s o f t h e c arav an c o n si sti n g o f a c o n si ,

de ra b le n umb e r o f mul e s a sse s a n d o x e n , Th e p o o r b e a sts

, .
,
’
fa tigu e d by a l o n g da y s ma rch we re s e ttli n g d o w n c o m ,

fo rta b ly t o th e ir fo o d wh e n a littl e gre yi sh bro wn bird with

,
-
,

D 2
3 6 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . Cm . v
.

a bl o o d re d b e ak p e rch e d o n t h e b a ck o f o n e o f th e o xen,
.
-
,

an d as th e b y stan d e rs as sure d me b e gan t o d ev o ur i t

,
-
The , .

o x a pp a re n tly a l a rme d as we ll as i rrita te d by t hi s n e w style

,

o f go a di n g ma d e a ru sh kickin g a n d lashi n g wi th hi s tail,

, ,

an d plu n gi n g a bo ut i n e ve ry dire cti o n as i f ma d ; b ut n o thing

co uld shake th e t e n a city o f th e litt l e bird wh o h e ld o n with ,

h is cl aws like gri m D e a th p e ckin g awa y as un c o n ce rn e dly ,

a s p o s sibly till j o i n i n g i n t h e fray we lite ra lly k n o c ke d him

, , ,

o ff with s tick s a n d st o n e s fo r n o i n t imi dat io n wo ul d i n duce

,

h im t o quit h is p o st ; a n d n o s o o n e r was b e d o wn th a n up
agai n h e fle w o n t h e b a ck o f th e n e a re st mul e wh ich he ,

co mme n ce d to rme n ti n g a s h e h ad d o n e th e o x We agai n .

an d a ga in fl o o re d h im fro m t h e ba ck o f thi s a n d se ve ral

o th e r a n i mal s which h e mo un te d succe ssive ly t i ll at last , ,

wo rn o ut by bl o ws h e fe ll t o t h e gro un d un abl e t o ri se ; b ut
,

e v e n i n thi s e xtr e mity h i s c o urag e n eve r fo rs o o k h i m fo r I ,

re c e iv e d man y d e sp e ra te p e cks b e fo re I succe e d e d in cap

turin g h im Th e p e o pl e h e re imagin e th at h e s ucks the
.
v

’
a n i ma l s bl o o d an d t h e a l a rm e xhibit e d by th e m o n this
,

o cc a si o n wo uld a pp e a r t o wa rra n t th e supp o siti o n al th o ugh ,

i n Aby ssi n i a I ha v e se e n bird s o f th e same d e sc ription

amo n g t h e ca ttl e h o ppi n g o n a n d o ff th e ir b ack s i n a qui et
, ,

bu si n e ss lik e man n e r th e c o ws takin g little o r n o n o tice

-
,

o f th e m o r p e rmitti n g such lib e rti e s as ph i lo so ph i c all y as

,

p o ssibl e .

A mo n g th e mse lv e s th e p e o pl e o f Ail at a pp e a r to b e very

so ci a bly i n cli n e d I n th e e v e n i n g p arti e s o f th e me n might
.
,
’
b e se e n co n gre ga t e d ab o ut t h e d o o rs o f e a ch o th e r s h o uses
t o ch a t T o ward s me th e y we re p a rticularly frie n d l y o ften
.
,

ra th e r to o much so ; fo r havi n g n o o ccup ati o n th e m se lves

which re quire s so litud e th e y co uld n o t u n d e rsta n d t h a t any
,

o n e e l se c o uld h a ve such a n d i magi n e d th e y we re co n fe rri ng

,

a ma rk e d h o n o ur by r e ma i n i n g a l way s a b o ut me e v e n wh en ,

I wa s writin g ; an d whe n I s e t o ut o n a sh o o ti n g e xcursion ,

I h a d a l ways ha l f a d o z e n o r mo re fe ll o ws b e ggi n g t o be
all o we d to a cc o mp an y me The y chas e d th e wo un ded.

game an d carri e d ho me th e d e a d th o ugh a s go o d Mo

, ,

h amme dan s n o thin g wo uld i n duc e th e m t o pa rta k e o f the

,
C HAP . V
. A MOS LE M WA K E .
”
37

c o n te n ts o f th e b ag sho t by a C hri stian o r e ve n by o n e o f ,

’
th e ir o wn re ligi o n u n l e ss th e an i mal s thro a t h ad b e e n cut
,

i n th e n a me o f G o d Go d i s mo st gre a t
”
An Abys sin i an .

Mo sle rn h o we ve r o n e o f my a tt en d an ts fo u n d o ut a way o f
, , ,

re li e vi n g h is co n sci e n ce an d fillin g h i s b e lly a t th e sa me

ti m e fo r be fo re I sta rte d h e wo uld ta ke t h e ra mro d an d , ,

p utt i n g it i n t o o n e o f t h e b a rr e l s I h a d ju st l o a d e d ta
p w ith ,

it pro n o un ce th e n e ce ssa ry wo rd s an d the n b e p e rfe ctly

, ,

h appy i n e a ti n g w h a te ve r tha t ch a rge might brin g d o wn A s .

in s h o o ti n g o n e c a n sca rc e ly e v e r b e sure o f b e i n g i n time t o

’
cut t h e a n ima l s thro a t the y co n sid e r it suffici e n t to t/zi nk
,

t h e w o rd s whil e i n t h e a c t o f pullin g th e trigge r Th e .

a n im a l thu s kill e d i s e a ta bl e whil e th a t s imply kill e d o r

,

dyi n g a n a tura l d e a th i s co n sid e re d futti se o r ca n i o n an d '

un l a wful fo r fo o d .

It ha pp e n e d o n e day durin g my sta y at A il at tha t a man

w as ta k e n sudd e n ly i ll an d di e d i n th e fie ld w hil e t e n di n g
,

h i s fl o ck s . H e was ca rri e d h o me o n a c o uch a n d a s so o n ,

as h e a rriv e d n e a r th e vill ag e a n d th e n e ws o f h i s d e a th wa s
,

Spre a d i n t h e pl a c e h i s wi fe ru shi n g o ut t o m e e t h i m se t up
, , ,

such a h o wl i n g a t t h e sa me ti me t e a ri n g h e r h air th a t it
, ,

a l mo s t fright e n e d m e Sh o rtly h o we v e r h e r fe ma l e fri e n d s

.
, , ,

o n e by o n e dro pp e d i n i n ch o ru s a n d th e n it was a c o m
, ,

p l e t e thi n g ; a th o u sa n d stro n g lu n ge d j a cka l s c o uld n o t h o ld

-

a ca n dl e t o the m Our h o st th e she ikh to wh o m I b e li e v e

.
,

th e m a n was di st an tly re l a t e d c a me t o me a n d b o rro w e d ,

thre e me asure s o f fl o ur a ca n dl e a n d two n e e dl e s th e fl o ur

, ,

was t o b e co n ve rt e d in to bre a d fo r th e me n wh o h a d c arri e d

th e c o rp se an d th e n e e dl e s we re t o s e w h i s wi n din g sh e e t
,
-
.

Th e c usto m h e re i s aft e r h a vin g wa sh e d th e b o dy t o wra p

, ,

i t i n a she e t ; it i s the n l a id o n a c o uch till th e grav e digge rs -

h av e c o mpl e t e d th e ir wo rk duri n g which ti me th e wo me n

,

re mai n in d o o rs h o wli n g t o a dru m a cc o mp a n ime n t whil e

-
,

th e me n a re s qu a tt e d w ith o ut I n a b o ut a n h o ur th e c o rp se
.

is ca rri e d o ff a t a tro t t o th e c e me t e ry u su a lly a t so me d i s ,

tan c e fro m t h e vill age ; it i s pl a ce d i n th e grav e which i s ,

ge n e ra lly v e ry shall o w an d a fe w st o n e s are put d o wn to

,
3 6 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . v
.

a bl o o d re d b e ak p e rch e d o n th e b a ck o f o n e o f t h e o xe n
-
, ,

an d as th e b y sta n d e rs assure d me b e ga n t o d e v o ur i t
,
-
Th e , .

o x a pp a re n tly ala rme d a s we ll as irrita t e d by t hi s n e w style

,

o f go a di n g mad e a ru sh k ickin g a n d l ashi n g wi t h hi s tail

, , ,

an d plu n gi n g a b o ut 1n e ve ry dire cti o n as i f ma d ; but n o t hing

co uld shake th e t e n a ci t y o f th e li ttle bird wh o h e l d o n wi th ,

h is cl aws like grim D e a th p e ckin g away as un c o n c e m e dly ,

as p o ssibly till j o i n i n g i n t h e fray we lit e rally k n o ck e d hi m

, , ,

o ff with stick s a n d st o n e s fo r n o i n ti mid a ti o n wo uld i n duce

,

h im to quit h is p o s t a n d n o so o n e r was h e d o w n th a n up

a ga i n h e fle w o n th e b a ck o f th e n e ar e st mul e whi ch b e ,

c o mme n ce d to rme n ti n g a s h e h a d d o n e th e o x We aga in .

an d a ga in fl o o re d h i m fro m th e back o f t hi s a n d se ve ral

o th e r a n i mal s which h e mo un t e d succe ssive ly till a t last , ,

wo rn o ut by bl o ws h e fe ll t o th e gro un d un abl e t o ri se ; b ut
,

e v e n i n thi s e xtr e mity h i s c o urag e n eve r fo rs o o k h i m fo r I '

re c e iv e d man y d e sp e ra t e p ec ks b e fo re I succe e d e d i n cap

turin g h im Th e p e o pl e h e re imagi n e th at h e s ucks the
.
-

’
a n imal s bl o o d an d t h e a la rm e xhibite d by th e m o n thi s
,

o cc a si o n wo uld a pp e a r t o wa rran t th e supp o siti o n a lth o ugh ,

i n Aby ssi n i a I hav e se e n bird s o f th e same d e s cription

a mo n g t h e ca ttl e h o ppi n g o n a n d o f ,
f th e ir back s i n a qui et ,

bu si n e ss lik e ma n n e r th e co ws takin g little o r n o n o tice

-
,

o f th e m o r p e rmittin g such lib e rti e s as phil o so ph ica ll as

, y
p o ssible .

Amo n g th e mse lv e s th e p e o pl e o f A il at appe a r t o b e very

so ci a bly i n clin e d I n t h e e v e n i n g p arti e s o f th e m e n might
.
,
’
b e se e n c o n gre ga t e d a b o ut t h e d o o rs o f e ach o th e r s h o u ses
t o ch a t T o wa rd s me th e y we re p articularly fri e n dly o ften
.
,

ra th e r t o o much so ; fo r ha vi n g n o o ccup a ti o n th e mse lves

which re quire s s o litud e th e y c o uld n o t u n d e rsta n d th a t any
,

o n e e l s e c o uld h a v e such a n d ima gi n e d th e y w e r e co n fe rrin

, g
a ma rk e d h o n o ur by re ma in i n g a l wa ys a b o ut me e v e n when ,

I wa s writi n g ; an d whe n I se t o ut o n a sho o ti n g e x curs io n ,

I h a d a lway s ha lf a d o z e n o r mo re fe ll o ws b e ggin g t o b e
all o we d t o a cc o mp a n y m e The y ch as e d th e wo u n ded .

game an d c arri e d h o me th e d e ad ; tho ugh as go o d Mo

, ,

h a mme dan s n o thi n g wo uld i n duc e th e m t o p a rt a k e o f the

,
3 8 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . Cm . v
.

ma rk t h e s po t wh e re it was la id but n o t whe re it wi ll lie

,

fo rty e ight h o urs afte r t h e fun e ra l fo r th e re i s n o tran quilli ty

-
,

he re fo r th e d e a d Th e Africa n re surre cti o n i sts th e l a ughing

.
,

hyaen as wa lk th e b o dy o ut o f th e to mb in n o ti me
, . Tho se
wh o c an a flo rd it pa y a sma ll sum t o t h e pri e s ts t o ha ve a
'

ma ss sun g fro m th e Ko ra n e ve ry t wo o r thre e mo n t h s after

th e fu n e ra l
.
C HA P . VI . A SU MMON S T0 K I A Q UOR .
39

C HA PTE R VI .

S /z oo t i n g i n A by ss i n ia Tb e K a n tdfi f
a a —A spo rts ma n ’s diff
—B oa r sta lki ng—R a n ty of unprovoked attacks o n ma n by
.

'

cul t zes -
w i ld
beas ts—M a n ea t i ng t zj —S o l zi a o l h a n ts—R en co n t re r w it /z wi l d
gcrs -
y e ep
boa r s .

I R E MA I N E D so me we e k s l o n ge r a t A ila t sh o o ti n g a n d c o l ,

le c t i n g sp e ci me n s o f n a tura l hi st o ry till a l e tt e r fro m Mr , .

Pl o w d e n (who m I i magi n e d t o b e at Ad o u a) re a ch e d me
’
fro m K ia quo r a vi lla ge a b o ut thr e e d ay s j o urn e y fro m A il a t
'

, ,

wh e r e a s h e i n fo rme d m e h e lay in a sta te o f gre at we akn e ss

, ,

fro m t h e e ffe ct s o f a s e v e re fe v e r which b o th h e an d h is ,

c o mp a n io n Mr B e ll h a d co n tra ct e d durin g th e ir stay a t

, .
,

M a ssawa The y h a d sta rt e d fo r th e i n t e ri o r ; but Pl o wd e n

.
,

b e i n g u n a bl e t o co n tin u e t h e j o urn e y r e ma i n e d at K i a quo r , ,

whil e B e ll we n t o n t o Ad o u a t o pre p a re a pl a c e fo r h i s re c e p
ti o n Th e fe v e r h o we ve r c o n ti n u e d t o a tta ck him a t i n t e r
.
, ,

va l s a n d h a d re duc e d h i m t o such a sta t e o f we ak n e ss that

,

h e h a d r e ma i n e d i n thi s pla c e fo r se v e ra l we e k s u n abl e t o ,

pro c e e d ti ll a ccid e n ta lly he a ri n g o f my a rriva l h e wro te t o

,

me b e ggi n g m e t o j o i n h im with all p o ssibl e d e sp atch

,
I .

a cc o rdi n gly d e t e rmi n e d t o l o s e n o ti me i n my pre p a ra ti o n

fo r th e j o urn e y t o K i aquo r I n th e e ve n i n g b e fo r e sta rti n g

.

I we n t o ut t o pro cure a supp e r fo r myse l f an d n u me ro u s

fri e n d s a n d a tte n d an t s a n d t o ta n t a liz e my En gli sh sp o rti n g
re a d e rs I will t e ll the m wha t b ag I bro ught h o me in littl e
,

mo re tha n a n h o ur My first sh o t bro ught d o wn fo ur gui n e a

.

fo wl ; my se c o n d fiv e ditt o ; third a fe ma l e ga z e ll e fo u rth , ,

h e r ma l e c o mp a n i o n ; an d fi fth a bra c e o f gr o u se ; so th a t ,

in five sh o ts I h ad a s go o d a b ag a s i n En gl an d o n e wo uld
’
t i a v e ra ge d a y s sh o o ti n g an d aft e r e xp e n di n g h a l f a
g e n a n ,
 40 LIFE 1111 A B YS S I N I A . Ca n . v1 .

po un d of p o wd e r an d a
pro p o rti o n ate quan ti ty o f sh o t ca ps , ,

a n d wa d s B ut I fe e l it my duty t o e xplai n tha t I never

.

s /zoot fly i ng c o n sid e ri n g tha t u n sp o rts man l ike

, A true spo rts .

man sh o ws h is skill by ge tti n g up to h i s game u n p e rc e ived ,

wh e n putti n g t h e muzzl e o f h is gun as clo se to t h e tai l

,

fe a t h e rs a s h e po ssibly c an h e bl a z es a way in t o t h e th ick o f

,

t h e c o ve y a l way s ch o o sin g t h e dire cti o n in wh ich h e sees

,

thre e o r fo ur h e a d s picki n g i n a ro w ! A t a n y ra te th is is
t h e o n ly wa y yo u c an sh o o t m a c o u n try wh e re if yo u e n tirely
e xp e n d y o ur p o wd e r a n d sh o t yo u mu st sta rve I n Ab yssi nia .

t h e sh o o ti n g i s a tte n d e d with much e xcite me n t fro m the ,

v a ri e ty o f ga me an d t h e di fficulty yo u have in p ursuin g it .

My so l e c o mp an i o n o n o rdi n ary o ccasi o n s i s a li tt l e b o y ,

wh o c a rri e s my rifl e whil e I ca rry my gun an d we d o all

, ,

t h e w o rk o ur se lve s H i s sh a rp e ye s be tte r a cc us t o me d to
.
,
'

t h e gl a re tha n my o wn s e rve me i n e ve ry po i n t as wel l as a

,
’
s e tt e r s n o se Th e c o u n try i s a s I b e fo re sa id sa n d y and
.
, ,

c o ve re d with large bu sh e s I n so me place s the se are sca tt ered,.

whil e in o the rs th e y gro w so thick a s t o fo rm a n a l mo st im

pa ssabl e ju ngl e M o st o f th e tr e e s are th o rn y b e i n g c h i efly
.
,

o f t h e mi mo sa trib e a n d th e ir th o rn s a re o f a v e ry fo rmi dab le

,

d e scri pti o n so me o f th e m b e i n g a b o ut t wo i n ch e s a n d a half

,

i n l e n gth a n d a s thick a t th e b a se a s a la rge n a il ; whil e

,

”
a n o th e r va ri e ty ca ll e d i n Aby s si n i a th e
,
kan taflta fa h ave ,

the ir sho rt curve d tho rn s plac e d o n t h e sho o ts two an d

t wo t o ge th e r Th e se ca tch yo u lik e th e cla ws o f a ha wk
.
,

a n d i f th e y e n t e r y o ur cl o th e s yo u h a d b e tt e r cut o ff t h e sprig

a t o n c e a n d ca rry it with yo u till yo u ha v e l e i sur e t o lib e ra te

,

yo urse l f o th e rwi se yo u will n e ve r succe e d fo r a s fa st a s yo u

,

l o o se n o n e th o rn an o th e r ca tch e s h o ld Thro ugh such o h .

st a c le s a s th e se yo u h a v e t o fight y o ur wa y a n d i f t h e day ,

b e u n lucky yo u will p e rha p s s t a rt yo ur game cl o se un d e r

y o ur fe e t a t a mo me n t wh e n yo u co uld n o t l e v e l yo ur gun
,

i f yo ur li fe d e p e n d e d o n it B ut supp o se yo u h a ve b e tt er
.

luck an d have se e n yo ur cha se (a b o ar fo r e xa mpl e ) a t so me

,

di stan ce fro m yo u th e n yo u ha ve th e re a l e n j o yme n t o f

,

sta lki n g h i m a n d yo u mu st do it we ll fo r n o a n i ma l i s mo re
, ,

wa ry th an th e wild pig H e i s pro b ably fe e di n g n e a r the

.
C HAP . Vi . B OA R - S TA LK I N G .
41

mi d d le o f so me o pe n s a p c e mn on g th e tre es wh en ce fro m
, ,

t he bu sh e s b e i n g scatt ered h e is a bl e to di sco v er an y

,

o bj e ct
. H e seld o m trust s h imse lf t oo n e ar a

I ha v e o b se rve d tha t whe n s a ti o na

t ry th e se
42 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP VI . .

c t o f an aggre sso r fro m th e o the r B e thi s as i t may the

s en .
,

right sid e fo r th e sp o rtsma n i s o f co urse t h e wro n g way of

th e win d ; a n d th e n h e has o n ly t o gu a rd a gai n s t b e in g seen
o r h e ard . Yo u mu s t n o w wa tch yo ur o pp o rtu n i ty a n d profit ,

by e v e ry mo me n ta ry turn o f h is h e a d to sprin g o r c rawl on

yo ur b e lly fro m o n e co ve r t o a n o th e r a n d i n so d o in g you ,

will e mpl o y p e rh ap s a go o d ha l f h o ur b e fo re yo u re a ch safe -

sh o o ti n g di s ta n c e B ut yo u will sca rc e ly i magi n e a t h ird of

.

th at ti me t o b e passe d so gre a t is th e e xcite me n t pro duced

,

by e a ch o f h i s mo ti o n s Yo u will se e h i m n o w a n d th en
.

grubbin g i n th e gro u n d n o w taki n g a su spici o u s gl a n c e on

,

e ith e r sid e a cc o mp an i e d by a sa ti sfi e d grun t a s h e re tu rns to

,

h i s me a l A ga i n h e s ta rt s a t so me littl e n o i s e yo u have
.

ma de (a l mo st i mp e rc e p tibl e to yo urse l f) an d run s a st e p or

t wo with h i s e y e s fix e d i n y o ur dir e cti o n
, I f h o we v e r you .
, ,

a re cl e v e rly c o v e re d a n d th e ro o t s h e h as l e ft a re sw e e t he
, ,

will t en t o o n e re turn
, ,
B ut to cut t h e ma tt e r sh o rt you
.
, ,

ha v e re ach e d th e n e a re st pra ctica bl e c o ve r an d are an xio us ,

t o have a sh o t at h i m y e t f r o m h o ldi n g y o ur,

br e a t h an d
ru n n i n g i n t h e h e at with y o ur h e a d a n d ta il o n a l e ve l
, ,

qua drup e d fa shi o n yo u fin d y o urse lf p an tin g an d a ll o f a

,

s h ak e .It wo uld n o t b e prud e n t t o thro w awa y y o ur l ead

a n d l o se yo ur p o rk ; so t a k e it c o o lly re st a mo me n t draw ,

a l o n g br e a th rub th e p a l m s o f y o ur h a n d s o n y o ur bre e c h es
,

( y
i f o u w e a r an y) a n d th e n o n th e sa n d t o
dy
r th e m H a vi n g .

d o n e thi s ta k e a co o l aim (re sti n g yo ur rifl e i f y o ur ha n d b e

,

still sh a ky) pull st e a dily—b e wa re o f a j e rk

,
Ban g Wee .
,
”
H o w so ! yo u e xcl a i m ;
”
we e we e !
, H e h as it ! “ “
he
”
i s o ff . H e mak e s a furi o u s ga ll o p in a circl e an d re t urn in g , ,

t o th e pl a ce wh e re yo u sh o t h i m dro p s d o wn d e a d , .

The se an imal s u n pro v o k e d n e v e r a tta ck man n o r d o I

, ,

b e li e ve i n th e ge n e ra l o pi n i o n th at ce rta i n o th e r wild b e asts

will d o s o I f wo u n d e d o r o th e rwi se pr o vo k e d o r frighte n e d
.
, ,

t h e wild b o a r lik e all o th e r a n i mal s turn s i n se lf d e fe n c e o n

, ,
-

h i s aggre sso r ; a n d a mo st fo rmid a bl e brut e h e i s t o o wh en , ,

h e ta k e s it i n t o hi s h e a d t o cha rge M o re than o n ce I have .

b e e n th e o bj e ct o f such a n a tta ck but o n l o o ki n g ro un d

with a vi e w t o e sca p e it h as ge n e ra lly h app e n e d v e ry luckil y
, ,
C HA P . VI . R E N C ON TR E S WI TH WI LD B OA R S .
43

fo r me , ture o f th e gro un d re n d e re d it mo re
tha t th e na

prud e n t fo r me to sta n d wh e re I wa s a n d d e fe n d myse lf .

O n o n e o cca si o n a wo u n d e d b o a r ca me a t me i n a l o w bu sh
, .

wh e n c e I h a d sh o t h im so I d o dge d t o t h e o th e r sid e a s h e
p as se d an d h e we n t straight o n appa re n tly ra th e r pl e a se d
, ,

t h a n o th e rwi se t o a v o id t h e re n c o n tre An o th e r ti me I ha d .
,

k i ll e d t h e ma l e a n d t h e fe ma l e wh o wa s wi th h im (I pre t e n d
,

n o t t o say by wh a t fe e li n gs i n stiga t e d n o t kn o wi n g wh e th e r ,

s h e was h i s wife o r si st e r) ch a rge d mo st v ali an tly t o t h e

re s c ue I pre p are d t o d e fe n d myse lf a s we ll a s I c o uld with

.

t h e butt o f my rifl e which I clubb e d wi t h b o th han d s

,
but
t h e b rut e a pp e are d u n willi n g t o sp o il so go o d a to o l fo r ,

c o m i n g w ithi n th re e y a rd s o f me sh e d ash e d h e r sn o ut i n t o

th e sa n d th e r e by du s ti n g me we ll a ll o v e r an d we n t t o th e
, ,

right ab o ut a s fa st a s sh e ca me I pursu e d h e r fro m she e r

-
.

s pit e fo r th e s ta rt sh e h ad giv e n m e a n d c o mi n g up sh o t , , ,

h e r as I h a d pre vi o u sly do n e h e r c o mp an i o n I f yo u ta k e .

t o y o ur h e e l s th e re i s littl e ch an c e th e y so o n c o me up with
y o u
,
a n d s e n d a fe w i n ch e s o f th e ir tu s k s i n t o a p a rt w h e re

fe w m e n wo uld thi n k pro p e r t o sh o w th e scar The y are .

,

mo re o ve r th e t o ugh e st a n i ma l s I e ve r me t with e xce pt

, , ,

p e rh a p s th e l arge d o g fa ce d b a b o o n An o ld so w o n ce
,
-
.

a ma z e d me by h e r fo rtitud e I h a d a ime d a t h e r h e a rt a s
.
,

b e i n g th e mo st su sce ptibl e p a rt o f th e bea n scx e ; but e ithe r ,

fro m my ha n d b e i n g u n st e a dy o r th e rifl e o ve r cha rge d I ,

-
,

hit h e r b a ck b o n e which I i magi n e mu st h a ve b e e n n e a rly

-

se v e re d fo r sh e fe ll th e bl o o d p o uri n g o ve r h e r sid e s an d
, ,

ru m p fro m th e wo u n d On my go i n g up t o h e r sh e ro se
.

an d c ra w l e d o ff o n h e r fo re l e gs dra ggi n g h e r hi n d e r s a ft e r
-
,

h er . A n xi o u s t o put h e r o ut o f p a i n I mad e at h e r with my ,

bo wi e kn i fe ; but sh e was u n gra t e ful e n o ugh t o re fu se my

-

we ll i n t e n ti o n e d a dva n c e s e a ch ti me I a ppro a ch e d h e r
-
,

le tti n g driv e a t me with h e r i n fe rn ally sh a rp tusk s o n e o f ,

wh ich gr a z e d my l e g so a s t o draw bl o o d b e sid e s makin g a ,

ma rk o n th e butt o f my rifl e which I h a d put fo rwa rd t o ,

g u a rd o f
f t h e bl o w .

I h a d go o d sp o rt at Aila t an d stro n gly re co mm e n d th e ,

place t o t h e n o tice o f sp o rt sme n I kill e d a v e ry gre a t .

44 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P VI
. .

n u mb e r o f e ve ry so rt o f an te l o p e an d ga z e ll e fr o m the ,

la rge st t o t h e sma ll e st A ft e r ba ggi n g n e arly t we n ty wild

.

bo a r I gave up firi n g a t the m fe a ri n g t o di s turb o th e r game

, , ,

a n d n o t wi shi n g t o Was t e p o wd e r a n d b a ll o n me a t which

wa s u se l e ss t o us A s fo r fo wl o f all so rt s it w as like
.
,

sh o o ti n g i n a fa rm ya rd I wa tch e d se ve ra l n ight s a t the

-
.

sprin g fo r li o n s O n e n ight o n ly I saw the m

. Two came .

d o wn but n o t ve ry n e a r me I fire d a t o n e a n d t h e y dis

, .

a pp e a re d t a ki n g n o furth e r n o tic e o f me th a n by givin g a

,

sh o rt b a rk A mo n th a ft e r I l e ft th e re mai n s o f o n e were
.
,

fo un d n o t far o ff I fo llo we d a h e rd o f e l e pha n t s tw o days

.
,

but c o uld n o t re a ch th e m a n d sa w pl e n ty o f o striche s an d

i r a ffe but n e ve r h a d t h e luck t o kill o n e o f th e l a tt e r A
g , .

man o n fo o t an d a l o n e h as sma ll ch an ce with such lo ng

l e gge d game .
46 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . e m u VI I !
. .

dan ge r as th e y remain e d qui e tly fe e din g with in e as y s ho o ting

,

di sta n c e Th e ro a d a s we a dva n c e d b e came mo re and

.
, ,

mo re ro ugh an d difli cult til] at las t w e fo un d o urse lves

,

as c e n di n g a n d de sc e n di n g al mo st p e rp e n dicula r h i ll s c o ve red ,

with l a rge ro u n d l o o se p e bbl e s an d we ll ga rn i sh e d with

, , ,

t h e u su a l pro p o rti o n o f th o rn y tre e s n e ith e r o f which as , ,

may b e imagin e d c o n tribut e d t o th e c o mfo rt o f a ba re fo o ted

,

p e d e strian in o n e o f th e h o tt e st cli ma te s in th e wo rld I h ad .

up t o thi s ti me so far re tai n e d o ld habit s as t o we ar sa n d als;

but e ve n san da l s pro ve d i n c o n ve n i e n t o n e xch a n gi n g the
sa n dy pla in fo r th e s t o n y hill s fo r far fro m pro t e cti n g my
,

fe e t th e y we re th e ca u se o f my ge tt in g se v e ra l ugly kn o cks
, ,

by trippin g me up an d makin g me slip so fo ll o w in g th e ,

a dvic e a n d e xampl e o f my c o mp a n i o n s I to o k th e m o ff an d ,

ca rri e d th e m in my han ds B e fo re my fe e t go t we ll ha rde n ed

.

I su ffe re d co n sid e rably tho ugh n o t so much as I e xp e ct ed

, ,

fo r t h e use o f san d al s i s a go o d pre p a ra ti o n fo r go i n g b a re

fo o t as a gr e a t d e a l o f sa n d ge t s b e t we e n th e m an d th e fo o t
, .

I h a d a l so b e e n accu st o me d to go ba re fo o t in mo i s t and
d e e p sa n dy place s as we ll a s i n t h e h o u se ; a n d wa s th e re
, ,

fo re n o t a lt o ge th e r so n e w at it a s if I h ad c o n stan t ly wo rn
,

sh o e s an d st o cki n gs .

,
We pro ce e de d i n thi s way fo r n e arly two ho urs whe n we ,

a rrive d a t th e t o p o f th e hill Th e c o u n try it mu s t b e ad

.
,

mi t te d h a d it s re de e mi n g qu aliti e s fo r th e sce n e ry tho ugh

, ,

ro ugh an d wild i n th e e xtre me wa s n o t d e vo id o f i n te re st

, .

H e re t h e guid e gave us t h e we lc o me n e ws that wa t e r (th e

firs t we h a d me t with tha t wa s dri n kabl e si n c e o ur d e p a rtu re
fro m A il a t) wa s to b e fo u n d i n th e va ll e y b e l o w us In .

o rd e r t o a vo id a rrivi ng a t th e wa t e r h e a t e d an d thirst y we ,

pro p o se d a ha lt fo r a fe w min ut e s My b o y wi shin g to .

,

ha v e e sp e cial ca re o f th e h o n e y h a d t ak e n it fro m th e guid e

, ,

a n d wa s ca rryi n g it in h i s l e a th e m ca s e by a stra p r o u n d hi s

n e ck ; but n o w tire d a n d b o t h e thre w himse lf d o wn a n d spill e d

, ,

it o n th e gro un d ; fo rge t tin g tha t a wid e mo uthe d drin kin g -

h o rn will n o t ca rry a fluid lik e cl e ar h o n e y o n a h o t day ,

un l e s s it i s k e pt i n a ve rtic a l p o siti o n Witho ut st o ppi n g to

.

sp e ak we all ru sh e d fo rward kn o cki n g o ur h e ad s t o ge ther

, ,
C HA P . VI I . D E S E R T P UN CH .
47

fr o m ge rn e ss an d suck e d up th e littl e h o n e y tha t th e

ea ,

gre e dy san d h ad l e ft o n i t s su rfa ce Wha t can t b e cure d

’
.

mu s t b e e n dure d : s o we ma d e a l a ughin g ma tte r o f it ,

th o ugh it wa s e xc e e din gly ve xa ti o u s thu s to l o se o ur o n ly

lit tl e luxury an d b e re duc e d t o a fl o ur a n d wa te r di e t
, .

With o ut mo re ta lk we se t o ff at o n ce fo r th e wat e r which ,

we r e a ch e d i n a b o ut a qua rt e r o f a n h o ur a n d we re agr e e a bly ,

su rp ri se d o n fi n din g a ma gn ifice n t stre a m d a shi n g d o wn b e

tw e e n two clifls which o ve rha n gin g it a t a fe w yard s o n ly

'

, ,

o n e fr o m t h e o th e r s h a d e d i t s c o u rse a s it fe ll fro m ro ck t o
,

ro ck i n ca sca d e s e a ch o f which h a d by c e n turi e s o f p e rse

, .

v e ra n c e ho ll o we d o ut o f t h e hard sto n e a ba sin fo r i ts

,

wa t e r s t o re p o se in So me o f th e se ca viti e s we re v e ry l a rg e
.
,

a n d o f c o n sid e ra bl e d e pth ; an d so m e h ad pre t ty wa t e r

plan t s gro wi n g fro m th e ir e dge s an d n o w i n full fl o we r , .

C o uld a n yt hin g b e mo re re fre shi n g tha n such a sight t o a

h o t an d we ari e d tra v e ll e r P Aft e r r e sti n g a sh o rt time I
ba th e d i n o n e o f the se b a si n s ; a n d th en wa shin g o ut th e ,

ho n e y ho rn with a bo ut a qua rt o f wa te r an d a ddi n g th e re to

-
,

a ta bl e sp o o n ful o f rum I pre se n t e d my c o mp an i o n s with a

,

co n vivi a l b o wl o f pu n ch .

Thu s re fre sh e d we co n ti n u e d o ur march thro ugh th e same

,

s tyl e o f c o u n try a s b e fo r e A n te l o p e s ga z e ll e s bab o o n s

.
, , ,

mo n k e y s an d wild b o a rs p a sse d cl o se t o us ; but fa tigue d

, ,

a s w e a ll we r e I le t th e m go ra th e r th an a dd u n n e c e s sa rily
, ,
’
t o t h e p e o pl e s l o a d I a lway s h o p e d we sh o uld agai n me e t
.

’
with so me fo wl ; but a t h al f p a st o n e o cl o ck t h e ti me o f o ur
-
,

a rriv a l a t t h e pl a c e wh e re we w e r e t o h a lt an d din e we h a d ,

fo u n d n o n e an d w e th e n re gre tt e d th e ga z e ll e
, On b e in g .

i n fo rme d tha t we h a d a rrive d at o ur ha lti n g pl a ce I mad e -

t h e i n quiry m —
,

o st n a tura l t o a thirsty ma n Whe re i s t h e

wa t e r ! Our guid e re pli e d by scra pi n g a h o l e with h is
ha n d s in th e sa n d which s o o n b e came h alf full o f a di n gy
, ,

su s pici o u s l o o ki n
-
g a qu e o u s ma tte r which h o we ve r h e a s , , ,

sure d m e w o uld (lik e ma n y y o u n g me n i n Euro p e ) b e c o m e

mo re re sp e cta bl e wh e n se ttl e d Th e fi rst thi n g t o b e d o n e

.

was t o pre pa r e th e bre a d fo r we we re all hu n gry an d n o w

, ,

whi l e I d e s crib e th e way in which it wa s ma d e my re a d e rs ,

48 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . Cm . VI I .

h uld l e n d the ir att e n ti o n an d if foun d agree ab l e make

s o , , ,

n o t e o f it fo r it might ha pp e n th a t a t a picn ic so me fai r lady

may h av e a l o n gi n g fo r fre sh brea d an d if yo u are gallant ,

y o u m a y by, t hi s re cip e pr e se n t it t o h e r i n a v e ry short

,

time h o t an d smo kin g fro m th e fire F irst yo u must of

,
.
,

c o urse have fl o ur o f which yo u ta ke a suffici e n t quan tity

,

thi s yo u mix with wa te r t o mak e a sti ff d o ugh w hich you ,

kn e a d up we ll with yo ur han d s i n to ba l ls e a ch th e s ize and ,

fo rm o f a n i n e p o un d sh o t -
Th e n tak e a ro un d p e bble
.
,

h e a te d p re vi o u sly in t h e fire a n d ma kin g a h o le i n y o ur loaf

, , ,

p o k e it in a n d cl o se th e mo uth : th e n puttin g th e l o af on ,

t h e e mb e rs yo u m u st b e ca re ful t o turn it a b o ut s o tha t it

, ,

ma y n o t b e d o n e mo re o n o n e sid e th an th e o t h e r I n .

a b o ut t e n mi n ut e s it will b e b ak e d a n d re a dy fo r e a ti n g : so

tha t yo u will i f hu n gry an d cl e ve r hav e mad e b a k e d and

, , , ,

e a t e n y o ur br e a d in n o t much mo re th a n a qu a rt e r o f an

ho ur which a ll will a llo w t o b e su ffici e n tly quick T h e o nly

, .

fa ult t o fin d with bre a d thu s ma d e i s th a t se ld o m mo re than ,

th e o ut sid e an d i n sid e surfa c e s a re a t all ba k e d .

H avi n g thu s di n e d w ith n o sauce but a go o d a pp e tite we

, ,

re p o se d fo r a n h o ur o r so till th e gre a t h e a t h a d a ba ted .

So me p e o pl e may thi n k tha t bre a d an d wa te r i s a h a rd di et

o n a j o urn e y but th e y are much mi st a ke n
, A ma n who .

kn o ws h o w t o a ppre ci at e bre ad an d wa te r may wi t h that

’
si m pl e di e t go mo re c o mfo rta bly t h r o ugh a h a rd d a y s ma rch

in a h o t climat e th an i f a tt e n d e d by th e b e st co o k i n En glan d
with a ll h i s ba tter ic dc cui s i n e an d fo r thi s pl a i n re a so n that , ,

th o ugh th e culin ary art may pro cure h im so me e n j o yme n t at

t h e h a l f way ha lt ye t h e w ill fin d tha t such t e mp o rary pl ea
-

,
’
sure mu st b e se v e re ly p a id fo r i n th e a ft e m o o n s wa lk ; me ats

a n d all o th e r str o n g fo o d b e i n g o f t o o h e a ti n g a n a ture B ut .

,
’
if hu n gry d o n t e a t y o ur br e a d gre e dily an d th e n was h it
, ,

d o wn with buck e t s o f wa t e r t o pre ve n t cho ki n g ; So p yo ur

bre a d in th e wat e r a n d th e n e at it yo u will thu s a t o n ce
,

a pp e as e y o ur hu n ge r a n d qu e n ch y o ur thirs t with o ut b e ing ,

in d a n ge r o f stra n gul a ti o n o r o f h a vin g t o c a rry a fe w e xtra

,
’
p o un d s we ight o f wat e r ra ttlin g ab o ut in yo ur sto mach for
t h e r e ma i n d e r o f t h e d ay ; ab o v e all thi n g s ma k e it a n in ,
C HAP . VI I . PI PE S E S S E N TI A L I N TH E EAS T .
49

va ri abl e rul e al ways to dr i n k a s li ttle w a ter as poss i ble re me m ,

b e rin g tha t th e mo re yo u drin k t h e mo re yo u will thirs t .

A n o th e r th in g a lmo st e sse n ti a l t o t h e c o mfo rt o f o n e wh o

h as be e n l o n g in th e Ea st i s a pip e A uth o r o f Wa n d e ri n gs . .
‘

’
i n So uth A me rica we ll ha st th o u writte n ; but o n thi s p o i n t
,
’
tho u ha st mo st un qu e sti o n a bly fa il e d : a tra ve ll e rs pip e i s
h i s sub s titute fo r fo o d an d me dici n e th e so l e co mp an i o n tha t ,

can re n d e r h i m ca l m a n d p a ti e n t u n d e r su ffe ri n g a gr e a t ,

pre ve n tiv e again st a ll so rts o f i n fe cti o n an d highly u se ful ,

w h e re ma l ar ia is t o b e fe are d .

Si curame n te n u gio vi n e e d uca to

I o n o n di ro ch e de b b a prese n tarsi
A d un a dama d o po a v e r fumato
S e nz a pri ma la b o cca ri sc ia qua rs i
Ma di av o l, c o s t a c0 s i po c o l
’
a c qua

E ch i e que l po rco c h i n o n si ris c i ac qua

I h a v e go n e a wh o l e da y un d e r h ard fa tigue witho ut

e a ti n g a n d ye t ha v e n o t fe lt hu n gry
,
Still I wo uld by n o .

me a n s a sse rt tha t t h e pip e sa ti sfi e d my st o ma ch ; it o n ly

div e rte d my a tte n ti o n an d k e pt me in go o d hu mo ur ; so
,

whil e I smo ke d my guid e a n d se rva n t s fe ll a sl e e p an d o n

, , ,

fi n i s hi n g my pip e I j o i n e d the m in th e ir h appy s tate o f

,

o blivi o n H a vin g sl e pt n e a rly an h o ur t h e guid e a wo ke us

.
, ,

an d w e c o n ti n u e d o ur j o urn e y Th e ro a d i n s t e a d o f im
.
,

pro vi n g app e a re d to gro w wo rse a s we a dvan c e d th e re was

, ,

in fa ct n o regul a r ro a d an d o ur guid e did n o t a pp ea r o v e r

, ,

cl e v e r in h is ca lli n g fo r a fte r fre qu e n tly cli mbi ng a mo u n

, ,

t a i n w e fo un d o n a ca re ful i n sp e cti o n o f t h e c o u n try tha t

, , ,

we h a d ta k e n a wro n g dire cti o n a n d we re o blige d t o re tu rn ,

by th e way we h a d c o me an d se e k an o th e r Thi s wa s n o t a
, .

littl e p e rpl e xin g an d ve xati o u s a n d my co mpa n i o n s e xpre sse d

,
’
l o udly the ir di sc o n te n t a t th e guid e s wan t o f a bility ; an d
w o rd s i n cr e a si n g I wa s o b lige d t o i n t e rp o s e my a uth o rity t o
,

pre ve n t a se rio u s qu a rre l e sp e ci ally a s we we re a lt o ge th e r

,
’ ”
a t th e Sh o h o s me rcy wh o wa s i n th e c o un try o f h i s o wn
,

p e o pl e while we we re a ll stran ge rs ; an d h e m ight a t a n y

,

t ime h a ve t a k e n us o ut o f o ur ro a d a n d a t n i ght d e c a mp e d , ,

a n d l e ft us t o fish fo r o ur s e lve s H o we v e r ab o ut a n h o ur
.
,

E
so LI F E I N A B YS S I N I A . Cw . VI I
.

a fte r snnse t we ha d th e plea sure of dfi cen di ng in to a little

p la in amo ng th e h ills, an d o f hearing v o ic es o f me n an d the

lo win g o f cattl e, an d sh o rtly aft e r we a rri ve d in sight of

fire s . fer

th o ugh th e se p e o ple bui ld the mse lv e s huts inm d

they in o ther re sp e cts fo ll o w th e cust o ms o f all
 C HA P . VI I . LA N G UA GE OF VA RI O US TRI B E S .
5 1

p ast ure fo r th e ir ca ttl e an d whe n th i s is e a te n up se e ki ng

, , ,

an o t h e r .

Th e Village s are co mp o se d o f huts fo rme d o f straw a n d ,

bo ughs o f tre e s n e atly e n o ugh fashi o n ed an d tha tche d ;

, ,

th e y a re place d so as to fo rm a circl e with o n e o r two s pa ce s ,

l e ft as e n t ran ce s in which th e ca ttl e are p e nn e d fo r th e

,

n igh t t h e e n tra n c e s b e i n g cl o se d by bu sh e s s tre we d b e fo r e

,

th e m Th e pe o ple are M o hamme da n s ; the ir l an guage i s

.

a lt o g e th e r difle re n t fro m th a t o f a n y o f th e ir n e ighb o ur s

'

re se m blin g n e i the r th e A byssin ian n o r th e l an guage o f Ma s

sawa a n d th e c o ast , n o r ye t th e A ra bic I n so me re sp e ct s .

i t re se mble s t h e lan guage o f t h e Galla trib e s e sp e ci a lly i n ,

t h e n ume ral s, man y o f which a re n e a rly th e same Thi s i s .

so m e wh a t asto ni shin g as b e t we e n th e Ga lla s a n d t h e Sh o h o s

,

t h e re l i e s a Ve ry la rge tra ct o f co u n try a mo n g who s e s e ve ral ,

di a l e c ts n o trace o f a li n k ca n b e fo un d B ut as o n th e se .

p o i n ts o f language I can by n o me an s call myse l f an

a uth o ri ty, n e ve r h avi n g ma d e it an o bj e ct o f r e se a rch I ,

ca n n o t d o b e t te r than re fe r such o f my r e ad e rs a s may b e

d esiro us o f furth e r in fo rma ti o n o n th e subj e ct t o a wo rk by

’
my es t e e med fri e n d M o n si e ur A n to i n e d A b b adie .

Th e Sh o h o s, in c o mmo n wi t h a ll migr a t o ry trib e s are i n ,

the ir h a b it s en ti re ly pasto ral re fu si n g t o h ave an y ha n d

,

i n t h e c ultivati o n o f th e so il Altho ugh h o stile i n re ligi o n

.

t o th e i r C h risti an n e ighb o u rs th e A byssi n i an s the re e xi s t s ,

b e twe e n t hem a mo st p e rfe ct en ten te cordi a le which i s highly ,

advan ta ge o us t o b o th p a rti e s ; fo r th e A by ssi n i a n s b e i n g

e n ti re ly a gri cul tu ral , th e rich o wn e rs o f o xe n amo n g th e m

in trust the se an imal s aft e r th e ir se rvice s a t t h e pl o ugh are

,

n o l o n g e r re qui re d t o t h e c a r e o f a Sh o h o wh o p a sture s
, ,

the m fo r th e remain d e r o f th e ye ar re c e ivi n g in payme n t a ,

quan tity o f co rn o n the ir safe re turn On th e o the r han d .

,

rich Sh o h o s o wn e rs o f vas t h e rds o f ca ttl e l e n d o ut th e ir

, ,

o xe n t o p o o r C hri st ian s wh o can n o t a ffo rd t o purch a s e a n

y
fo r th e mse lv e s Th e Abyssi n i an o wn e r o f th e l an d h a s
.
, ,

th e e n ti re l a b o ur a n d ma n a ge me n t o f t h e cro p whil e th e ,

Sho h o o wn e r o f th e o xe n h a s a share o f th e h a rv e st
, ,
.

E 2
5 : LI F E I N A B YS S I N I A . Cw . Vl l .

us kin s
s fo r b e d s, an d pro vid e d us with fire wo o d , as we
-

th e so ci e ty o f t h e c o ws o uts id e to t ha t o f

’
mast ers pa rasi t es within th e h uts Sh o rtly a ft er, the W
.

be ing milke d we we re s uppli e d with a la rge bo wl of mm

,

fo r o ur supp e r and. havi ng made o ur ho me ly repe at aw e

, ,
54 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . e mu VI I!
. .

cro sse d o n t h e bre ast an d thro wn o ve r t h e sh o uld e rs For .

con v e n i e n ce it i s o cca si o n ally tie d a t t h e b a ck o f t h e n e ck .

A t K i aquo r I fo u n d Mr Pl o wd e n much b e tte r th o ugh

.
,

still in a d e pl o ra bl e sta t e o f we ak n e ss an d th o ro ughl y sick

,

o f a pl a c e wh e re h e h ad b e e n d e ta i n e d fo r so l o n g a p e rio d .

Thi n ki n g tha t chan ge o f air might b e be n e ficia l t o him we ,

d e t e rmi n e d as so o n a s p o ssibl e to sta rt fo r Ad o ua

, , .
C HA P . VI I I . H A M A S A YN .
55

C H A PTE R VIII .

S ta r t fo r A don a H a masay n —R ick ness of tb c soi l Curse of Civ i l Wa r

‘

— A ddy K i l ld w ita Tli e quo lquo l—A n escape

'

Wretc/zed acco mmodat io n

—Ma s a —S ka ka —K ouddojelassy Gr ea t i n kospita lity—B g/t Ma r ia m
— A missi o n a ry—A ddy H a i H a i — Curio si ty of t/ze people —A fracas
A byss i n ia n cour a e
g Tb e Ma reb—A sto r m—A r riv a l at Ado ua .

’
A FT ER ight re st we pre p a re d fo r o ur de pa rture
one n s , .

Thi s j o u rn e y pro mi se d t o b e mo re agre e abl e tha n t h e last

—w ith th e se rio u s drawback ho weve r o f p o o r P lo wde n s
,
’
, ,

ill h e a lth I was lucky e n o ugh t o fin d th at h e h ad a n e xtra

.

mul e so th a t I co uld sp a re my l e gs We h a d a go o d man y

, .

s e rv a n t s a b o ut e ight p o rt e rs fo r l ugg a ge
,
a n d t h e littl e ,

v a ri e ty o f pro vi si o n s which t h e c o u n try c o uld furn i sh mo re

o v e r we we re a b o ut t o tra v e l o n a b e a t e n tra ck thro ugh a
,

p o pul o u s di strict i n t h e vill a g e s o f

,
w hich w e c o uld a l wa y s

re n e w o ur suppli e s sh o uld the y fail us Th e gre a t e r p a rt

, .

o f o ur ro a d la y thro ugh t h e fin e pro vi n c e o f H a ma sa yn ,

a v a st tabl e l an d va ri e d with b e auti ful hill a n d va ll e y

-
,

s c e n e ry Th e mo st c a re l e ss o b se rve r i n p a ssi n g thro ugh

.
,

thi s c o u n try can n o t fa il t o ma rk t h e e xtre me richn e ss o f

,

t h e s o il an d t h e gre at ca p a biliti e s o f t h e l a n d w e re it pro

,

p e rly cultivate d To us it pre s e n te d itse l f u n de r th e mo st

.

di sa dvan tage o u s circumsta n c e s C ivil wa r th e p e rp e tual.

,

sco urg e o f A by ssi n ia a n d th e p ri n cip a l c a u se o f i t s r e mai n

,

in g i n i t s pre s e n t s ta t e o f p o ve rty an d b a rb a ri sm h a d p asse d ,

o v e r thi s fa ir l a n d a n d re duc e d it t o such a s t a t e th a t

,

wh e re v e r yo u turn e d yo u sa w n o thi n g but d e vasta ti o n an d

rui n Wh o le vill age s h ad b e e n burn t t o th e gro un d an d
.

th e ir lan d s l a id wast e by Ga rra Amlac so n o f A ito Sillo u , ,

an d t h e B a h a rn e ga s Za G e o rgi s .

Our first halt was at n o o n wh e n we re st e d fo r a sh o rt ,

5 6 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . VI I I .

ti me un d e r th e shad e o f a la rge sycamo re , n ear a ruin ed

Vil lage ; an d ha vi n g re fre she d o ur an i mal s an d re in v i go rated
,

o urse lve s with a littl e bre a d h o n e y an d C a ye n n e pe ppe r

, , ,

we pro c e e de d fo r a n h o ur whe n t h e ra i n c o mi n g do wn
,

he avily we we re o blige d to ta k e re fuge i n a h o use a t the

village o f Addy K illawi ta a small haml e t v e ry p re ttily
,

situ at e d o n ri si n g gro u n d an d surro u n d e d b y re markably

,

picture squ e sc e n e ry H e re fo r th e firs t ti me I saw the

.
, ,

u l u l p ci f Euph o rbi a whi ch gro ws lik e a cac tus

q o q ,o a s e e s o , ,

t h e l e a ve s a n d bra n ch e s b e i n g b o th o f a fl e shy sub st ance ,

a n d c o n ta i n i n g a l a rge qu an tity o f milky sap t h a t flo ws o ut ,

pl e n ti fully o n a sprig b e i n g wo u n de d o r bro ke n Th i s milk .

i s p o i so n o us a n d i s u se d by t h e n ative s fo r i n to xica t i n g the

,

fish i n t h e small rivul e t s which b e in g da mme d a b o ve an d

,

b e l o w th e ho l e s wh e re th e fish a re kn o wn t o li e a qua n ti ty ,

o f t h e quo l quo l juic e i s put i n t o t h e wa t e r an d i n a sh o rt ,

ti me th e fish are se e n t o flo a t i n se n sibl e o n its s urfa ce A .

’
dro p o f thi s p o i so n spi t tin g by a ccid e n t i n t o a pe rso n s e ye
i s said t o b e su ffici e n t t o bli n d h i m It h as a l so a very .

a dh e siv e, gu mmy pro p e rty o n which a cc o u n t th e pe o ple

,

use it fo r glu e i n g thi n gs t o ge th e r an d lik e wi se fo r wa te r ,

pro o fin g a so rt o f ba ske t mad e o f grass ve ry fi n e ly wro ught ,

i n which wh e n quo l quo liz e d th e y c arry milk

, , Th e t rees .

gro w t o a c o n sid e rabl e h e ight an d be a r small bl o s so ms , ,

y e llo w o r pi n k a cc o rdi n g t o th e kin d which app e a r a lo ng

, ,

t h e upp e r e dge o f t h e l e a v e s .

Our ro ad was i n so me pl a c e s fill e d with an e xc e e d in gly

b e autiful i n se ct in fo rm so me thi n g lik e a c at e rpilla r but
, ,

s h o rt e r a n d thick e r an d c o v e re d with a fur lik e v e lv e t o f

,
-

t h e bright e st sc arl e t .

Pl o wd e n b e i n g take n v e ry ill h e re we we re o blige d t o ,

remai n qui e t till h e sho uld fe e l stro n g e n o ugh t o c o n ti n ue

h is j o urn e y ; an d so se t ab o ut t o pro cure a l o dgin g Thi s .

p o i n t b e i n g se ttl e d I sta rt e d in qu e st o f a supp e r a n d it

, ,
’
was n o t l o n g b e fo re I h e a rd th e pi n ta d o s call in a vall e y
a fe w h un dre d p a c e s fro m th e Vill age I h ad with me my .

’
o wn b o y an d a s e rv a n t o f P lo wd e n s wh o b e i n g c o n s id e re d , ,

a n abl e sp o rt sman wa s i n tru s t e d with a gun

, B e fo re de .
C HA P . VI I I . AN E S CA PE .
57

c
s en di n g in to t h e vall e y I h ad se p a rate d fro m h im de sirin g ,

him t o ta ke a d ire cti o n t o t h e right o f t h e sp o t wh e re we

judge d t h e bird s t o b e whi le I we n t to t h e l e ft A fte r pro
, .

c e e di n g ab o ut a hu n d re d y a rd s I st o o d an d c o n sult e d with

t h e b o y an d w as e n d e a vo uri n g t o h e a r th e ca ll agai n wh e n
, ,

we w e re s ta rtl e d by a r e p o rt i n t h e bu sh e s a fe w p a c e s t o
o ur right a n d a t t h e same mo me n t a b a ll p a sse d i mme
,
’
d ia t e ly o v e r th e b o y s h e a d a n d withi n a n i n ch o r t wo o f
,

my n o se Thin kin g the re might b e ro bb e rs in th e bu she s

.
,

I c o cke d my gun an d e n te re d th e m ; but fi n di n g n o

o n e p as s e d thro ugh t o th e o th e r sid e an d th e re was t h e
, ,

s po rts man c o o lly re l o a di n g hi s gun l On i n quiri n g w h y h e

h a d t ak e n such a lib e rty with my n o se h e re pli e d tha t , ,

fin din g h is gun l o a d e d with b all h e h a d discharge d it i n

.

o rd e r t o re l o a d with sh o t fo r t h e fo wl ; an d e xcu s e d hi mse l f

fo r firi n g i n th a t dire cti o n by sayi n g tha t h e i ma gi n e d we

w e re much farth e r a dva n c e d o n o ur way A s h e wa s a .

w e ll di sp o se d fe ll o w I fe lt c o n vin c e d it wa s a n a ccid e n t ;
-
,

a n d h a vi n g c auti o n e d h i m t o h e mo re ca re ful i n future we ,

c o n ti n u e d o ur di ffe re n t ro ut e s an d re tu rn e d i n th e e ve n i n g
,

w ith a v e ry go o d b ag .

Our re s id e n c e a t th e villag e wa s n o t o f th e b e st e sp e ci ally

—
,

fo r a s ick man a n a rro w small hut b a rel y high e n o ugh fo r

, ,

a t a ll p e rso n t o sta n d upright in with a d o o r a b o ut fiv e fe e t

,

high t h e o n ly a p e rture by which ligh t an d ai r h a d a n y

,

cha n c e o f e n t e ri n g I n thi s ill ve n tila t e d ap a rtme n t we re

.
-

p a ck e d t h e gre a t e r p a rt o f o ur co mpa n y (a b o ut e l e ve n me n ) ,

t wo m ul e s an d a n u mb e r o f go a t s b e l o n gi n g t o t h e la n dl o rd
, .

Th e a t m o sph e re was o f c o urse n o n e o f th e pure st ; but we

ha d n o re me dy ; t h e ra in y se a so n h a d se t in a n d we c o uld ,

fin d n o o th e r sh e lt e r fo r o ur p e o pl e a n d a n i mal s So a s .

so o n a s my c o mp an i o n h a d re c o ve re d a littl e fro m h i s fit o f

ague w e c o n ti n u e d o ur j o urn e y a s fa r a s a vill a ge c a ll e d

,

Maiya ab o ut six m il e s di stan t i n th e h o p e o f fi n din g b e tte r

, ,

acc o m m o d a ti o n B ut it wa s a va i n h o p e ! A t fi rst we
.

fo un d n o n e a t all ; a n d it wa s n o t till a ft e r a v a s t d e a l o f
pe rsua s i o n a n d gre at pro mi se s th a t we i n duce d th e go o d
p e o pl e o f t h e village to c o n se n t t o o ur o ccupyi n g a d we lli n g
5 8 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P VI I I. .

fo r th e n igh t ; an d wh e n th e y did so , th a t wh i ch t h e y o fle red

'

was so b ad , so v e ry far i n fe ri o r e v e n to t h e las t, t h at, rather

than b e stifle d in a b ut, we pre fe rre d lyi n g i n t h e o pe n air,
c o v e re d with hide s a s a pro te cti o n fro m th e rai n wh i ch kept ,
’
p o u ri n g fo r se ve ra l h o urs P lo wde n s c o n ti n ue d illness
.

c o mp e ll e d us t o re ma i n h e re t wo d a ys an d n i gh ts during ,

w hich ti me w e a muse d o urse l ve s as wel l as we c o ul d c o n ,

~

tri v in g te n t s an d hut s a mo n g th e ro ck s n ea r t h e i n h o spi table

vill ag e B ut so o n tiri n g o f thi s so rt o f life we agai n st arted
.
, ,

ca rryi n g th e p ati e n t in a l itt e r made o f b o ughs a n d after

cro ssin g t h e rive r M a re b which he re fl o ws i n n ea rly a
, .

so uth e rly dire cti o n w e a rri ve d a t t h e villa ge o f Shaha,

,

wh e re o ur l o dgi n g b e in g o f t h e same wre tch e d d e sc ri pti on

, ,

w e re ma i n e d th e n ight o n ly a n d c o n t i n u e d o ur j o urn e y the

,

n e xt mo rn i n g h o pi n g t o a rriv e t h e same d ay a t K o uddofe

,

lassy wh e re w e th o ught o f sta yi n g a fe w d ays ha v i n g heard

, ,

tha t it was a ma rk e t t o wn a n d tha t a ll so rts o f supplies

-
,

n e c e ssa ry fo r my sick fri e n d c o uld b e o b ta i n e d th e re We .

appro a ch e d it with a fe e li n g th a t o ur tro ubl e s w e re a b o ut to

e n d a t a n y ra t e fo r a time
, Gre a t h o we ve r w a s o ur dis
.
, ,

app o in tme n t a n d v e xa ti o n o n a rrivi n g ; fo r o n i n q ui ri n g in

e v e ry dire cti o n fo r a l o dgi n g w e w e re a b so lut e ly re fused

,

o ne , e ith e r fo r l o ve o r m o n e y I n vai n w e pl e a d e d the

.

s ick n e ss o f o ur c o mp an i o n o ffe ri n g a h an d so m e pa yme nt

,

fo r wha t o ught t o h a v e b e e n gra tuito u sly pro vid e d a s c o mmon

h o spitality A ll wa s u se l e ss : so we we re fo r a ti me o bliged
.

t o put up with t h e p a rti a l sh ad e o f a sma ll tre e a s t h e o n ly

pro te cti o n a gai n st a bro ili n g sun Pre se n tly a cro wd o f th e
.

vill age rs co lle ct e d ro u n d us curi o u sly e xamin i n g us an d

, ,

ma ki n g i mp e rti n e n t re ma rk s We m a d e a so rt o f t e n t o f
.

’
th e se rva n t s ga rme n ts but thi s c o n t rivan c e tho ugh it ,

re li e v e d t h e i n valid fro m th e ir i mp e rti n e n t cu ri o s ity ma de ,

h i m su ffe r mo r e fro m th e c o n fi n e d a i r an d i n to l e ra bl e h e at ;
a n d a se v e re a tt a ck o f t h e fe ve r wa s t h e c o n se qu e n c e At .

las t so me o f t h e se rva n t s wh o h ad b e e n in th e v i ll age

,

b u syi n g th e mse lve s i n tryi n g t o di sc o ve r so me a cqu a i n ta n ce

o r o th e r i n divi d u a l mo r e ch a rita bl e o r l e ss diffi cult o f e r
p
su a si o n th an hi s n e ighb o urs re turn e d bri n gi n g th e we lc o me
, ,
C HA P . VI I I . BE YT M A RI A M .
59

n e ws tha t th e y h a d pro cure d us a l o dgin g It t urn e d o ut .

th a t th e y h a d re pre se n te d us as v e ry gre a t p e rso n age s o n a

vi sit to th e kin g wh o was anx i o usly e xp e cti n g us an d wo uld
, ,

n o d o ubt b e m uch an ge re d a t a n o pp o s iti o n o r i n h o sp i ta lity

y
b e i n g o ffe re d us A hi n t h a d a l so b e e n a dd e d which was
.

’
co n clu siv e fo r the y h a d wo rke d o n t h e man s cupidity by
,

i n s i n ua ti n g th at h e wo uld b e we ll p aid fo r h i s ki n d n e ss so
h e n o w c ame t o us wi th a ll pr e t e n d e d hu mility an d go o d
w ill p o lit e ly o ffe rin g us h i s h o u se an d re gre tti n g tha t h e
, ,

h a d o n ly ju st re turn e d fro m th e d e uc e k n o ws wh e r e (tho ugh ,

a s we a ft e rwa rd s he ard h e ha d b e e n se a t e d a ll t h e whil e in

,

h i s o wn d we lli n g) an d th a t h is a b se n c e h a d pre v e n t e d h i m
,

e x e rci si n g hi s h o spita lity so o n e r To o gl a d t o hav e such a .

c ha n c e we lo st n o ti me i n tran sp o rti n g o ur fri e n d an d

‘

b aggage to th e a p artme n t pre p a re d fo r o ur re c e pti o n It .

w as a mi se ra ble sh e d ca rp e te d with c o w du n g ,
H e re an d -
.
,

o ft e n whil e in th e se c o u n tri e s did I y e a rn fo r o n e o f t h e

,

n e a t c o mfo rt a bl e t e n e me n t s a ssign e d t o ca ttl e i n En gl a n d

,

but I may truly asse rt tha t fo r se ve ra l ye ars I ha ve n o t sl e pt

i n h a l f so go o d a d we lli n g as mo st o f th o se o ccupi e d by o ur
h o rn e d d e p e n d an ts .

We re ma in e d five d ays in thi s t o wn durin g th e wh o l e o f ,

whic h ti me we c o uld pro cure n o suppli e s b e yo n d a littl e

ho n e y a n d a fe w mi se ra bl e fo wl s Th e mo rn i n g o f o ur .

d e pa rture a dvan c e d us b ut littl e o n o ur way ; fo r al mo st

i mme dia t e ly o n startin g we we re c aught b y a p e lti n g sh o we r ,

w hich c o mp e ll e d us t o se e k r e fuge i n a vill ag e so me di stan c e

fro m t h e ro a d an d situ a te d o n a littl e h ill o n which th e re i s
, ,

a chu rch d e dica te d t o St M a ry wh e n c e t h e pl a c e ta k e s i t s

.
,

n a me B e yt M a ri a m Th e r ai n fa lli n g fa st we e n t e re d t h e
.
,

first h o u se w e came to t h e pro pri e to rs o f which tho ugh a t

, ,

first v e h e me n tly o bj e cti n g t o such i n tru si o n at la st ca me ,

ro un d se e i n g tha t w e we re d e te r mi n e d n o t t o budge I n
, .

a b o ut a n ho ur an d a h al f th e ra i n cl e a r e d o ff ; but a s th e r e ,

was e ve ry a pp e a ran c e o f i t s Sp e e dy re turn w e mad e up o ur ,

mi n d s t o re mai n duri n g th e n ight I n t h e me a n ti me o ur .

w o rthy h o st s h a d di sc o v e re d th a t we we re n o t h al f so b a d
as th e y h a d a t first i magi n e d a n d we re di sp o s e d t o b e v e ry
,
60 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP VI l l . .

civil an d agre e a bl e D uri n g th e in t e rval s o f th e s ho we rs I

.

t o o k va ri o u s wa lk s i n th e n e ighbo urho o d pa rtly t o p ro cure ,

us a supp e r an d p a rtly t o e n j o y th e sc e n e ry
, I n o n e of .

th e se rambl e s I p e rce ive d i n t h e ro a d at so me di stance ,

fro m me a l a rge p a rty with th e ir fa c e s t o wa rd s t h e c oast

, , ,

a mo n g wh o m wa s a whit e ma n I mme dia te ly re turn i n g to

.

t h e vill a ge I i n quire d wh o t h e tra ve ll e r co uld po ss ibly b e

, .

So me o f o ur p e o pl e gu e sse d h im t o b e a Gre e k S ilve rsmith

o th e rs a C o pt w h o was l e a vi n g t h e P a tri a rch an d o n hi s
—
,

way t o Egypt but t h e mo re pre val e n t o pi n io n a n d as it

—
,

aft e rwa rd s pr o v e d th e c o rre ct o n e

,
was th a t it was an ,

A n gl o Ge rman mi ssi o n a ry wh o was re tu rn i n g t o Euro pe

-

havi n g b e e n ra the r ro ughly turn e d o ut o f th e c o u n try .

Le a vi n g E n d a M a ri a m n e xt mo rn i n g we a rrive d a little ,

a fte r midd a y a t a l a rge vill age ca ll e d A ddy H a i H a i H e re .

we w e re b e tt e r re c e iv e d th an a t an y pl a c e si n c e we l eft
K ia quo r fo r we h a d b e e n se a te d o n ly a sh o rt tim e un der
,

t h e sh a d e o f a tre e wh e n we w e re i n vite d i n to t h e h o u se of
a p e tty chi e f o f t h e pl a c e Th e p e o pl e h o we ve r were
.
, ,

curi o u s i n t h e e xtre me We h ad t h e ho u se fill e d with a

.

succ e ssi o n o f vi sit o r s wh o th o ugh fo r t h e mo s t p a rt ve r

, , y
civil an n o y e d us c o n side ra bly by aski n g a ll so rt s o f silly
,

qu e sti o n s e xa mi n i n g e v e rythi n g we p o sse sse d an d pre

, ,

v e n ti n g o ur ta ki n g an y re st o r o th e r wise e mpl o yin g o ur ti me

.

a s might a pp e a r t o us mo s t a gr e e a bl e O n e ma n h o w e v er .
, ,

a sk e d a se rv a n t o f o ur s fo r a pi n ch o f sn u ff but i n s o i m ,

ri o us a man n e r tha t t h e b o y re fus e d h im ; up o n thi s th e

p e

ma n i n sulte d h im which wa s re turn e d with i n t e re s t

, At .

l e n gth wo rd s c ame t o bl o ws wh e n th e fe ll o w se e i n g himse lf

, ,

a l o n e a mo n g o ur p e o pl e a n d fe a ri n g h e might ge t t h e w o rst
,

o f i t ma d e hi s e s c ap e but quickly re turn e d bri n gi n g wi th

, , ,

h im a cro wd o f h i s fri e n d s a rm e d with club s O n e o f th e .

se rv an t s o n s e e i n g th e m a ppro a ch h a d cl o s e d t h e o u e r
, ,
t
ya rd gat e s which the y co mme n c e d a tta ck in g with s tick s and
,

st o n e s. It wa s t h e n o i se ca u se d by thi s a ssault th a t first

ga v e us i n ti ma ti o n o f th e ro w G o i n g o ut we fo u n d o ur
.
,

se lv e s in th e middl e o f a st o rm o f mi ssil e s a n d t h e two ,

p artie s d e fyi n g an d i n sulti n g e a ch o the r but e vid e n tly ,

62 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P VI I I
. .

walk fro m th e rive r They re ce ived us ve ry kin dly ; b ut

.

sca rc e ly h ad w e e n t e re d wh e n a st o rm bro ke up o n us with

such fury tha t it was a s much as we c o ul d d o s e rvan ts and,

all , t o pre v e n t th e t e n t be in g blo wn away bo di ly As it

.

was it pro ve d o f l ittl e use to us fo r n o twith sta n din g all

, ,

o ur e ffo rts , t h e vi o l e n ce o f th e wi n d te a ring up o n e side

,

o f it all o we d t h e ra i n t o das h in an d w e we re a ll s o o n c o m
, ,

p l e t e ly we t thr o ugh . I n ab o ut an h o ur t h e s t o rm cl eare d

of f an d we c on ti n ue d o ur ro ute to th e v illag e le a vi n g Mr
, , .

D e J a c o bi s an d h is fri e n d t o pursue the ir j o urn e y in th e

o pp o sit e dire cti o n . N e xt day we sle pt at Ba ysa an d the ,

fo ll o wi n g n o o n i n a h e avy sho we r, arrive d in sight o f Ado ua

, ,

t h e ca pi ta l o f Tigré .
CR A P . IX . A PPE A RA N CE OF A D O UA . 63

C HA PTE R IX .

—
Adoua Appea ra n ce of t/ze town —F asb ion a ble a muse men t —A m ’
va l o
f
baggage C us t o m-
ho use a n n oy a n ce S ta rt on a vi si t to Oubi —
B eten
tio ns o n Me roa N e
—
/ as—
d A ddy D ev ra B er bei
y A v —
ery unpr otected

fe m a l e—D ifi cult t ra vel li n

g
— A p r i es t
’
s d w el l i n
g Ck u r clz
p p y
r o er t
’ —
Our k osi s li o nesty a n d good n a ture A ddy A rgoud A n uncomfor ta b le —
n igh t—M o un t H a ra nta t
— —
I n acce ssible ro cks a rri v a l a t tire ca mp .

ON n ea rin g to wn I gallo p e d o n a h e a d o f t h e p arty

th e ,

a n xi o u s t o o bta i n sh e lt e r a s so o n a s p o ssibl e ; but b e in g

mo u n t e d o n a we ak an d tire d mul e an d th e ro a d b e i n g o f a ,

s ti ff a n d gr e a sy clay an d i n ma n y pl a c es v e ry st e e p
, I ,

gain e d but little by my haste fo r th e mul e slid d o wn all

t h e hill s an d stu mbl e d o r tu mbl e d o ve r a ll t h e i n e qu a liti e s
,

o f t h e pl a in My a tt e n ti o n b e in g thu s o ccupi e d a n d th e
.
,

ra i n d rivi n g in my fa ce I h a d n o t l e i sure t o e n j o y a di stan t

,

Vi e w o f th e ci ty we we re appro a chi n g ; n o r c o uld I till ,

withi n a sh o rt di st an c e o f it se e e n o ugh t o e n a bl e me to
,

d e t e rmi n e wh e th e r Ado ua was built in t h e Gre ci an o r

M o o ri s h ta ste I o wn I rathe r e xp e ct e d t o se e c o lu mn s
.

o r o b e li sk s i f n o t an acr o p o li s o n so me o f th e n e ighb o uri n g

,

hi ll s Judge th e n o f my a sto n i shme n t wh en , o n arrivi n g a t

.

thi s gr e a t ci ty th e capita l o f o n e o f th e mo st p o w e rful

,

ki n gd o ms o f E thi o pia I fo u n d n o thi ng but a l arge straggli n g

,

v i l l a ge o f huts so me fla t ro o fe d but mo stly th a tch e d with

,
-
,

s tra w an d th e wa ll s o f a ll o f th e m bu i lt o f ro ugh s to n e s la id
, ,

t o g e th e r with mud i n t h e rud e st p o ssibl e man n e r B e in g

, .

w e t m o re o ve r with t h e ra i n t h e pl ac e pr e se n t e d th e mo st
, , ,

mi se ra bly dirty a pp e aran c e B e fo re e n t e ri n g th e to wn we

.

h a d t o c ro ss a bro o k a n d t o scrambl e up a st e e p ba n k in
, ,

as c e n di n g which mo re th a n o n e o f o ur p a rty me a sure d hi s

64 LI F E I N AB YS S I N I A . Cw . at

l en gth in t h e mud to th e e x tre me d elight o f so me yo ung

,

g en tl e me n c o l l e c t e d o n t h e t o p w h,o la ugh e d an d ye ll e d at
e ach su cce ssi ve mis ha p . Th i s ra th e r ann o ye d me ,

c ially as, wh e n I too k my turn to ri se fro m th e

po sture wi th my ni ce whi te t ro u se rs c on s id ra bl y
,
e
by th e di rt co ll e c te d In th i s an d seve a
r l p re vi e w fall s, I was
C HA P . IX . C US TOM -
H O US E AN N O YA N CE’
. 65

wel c o me d d o uble all o wan c e o f sh o utin g It was e x

by a .

pl ai n e d t o me tha t I sho uld o n ly ge t mo re i f I to o k an y

n o tic e o f it ; a n d I a fte rwa rd s di s c o v e re d th a t it was t h e

fas hi o n a bl e a mus e me n t du ri n g t h e ra i n y s e a so n fo r t h e yo u n g
me n a b o ut to wn to co ll e ct in t h e vici n ity o f a n y slipp e ry
pl a c e a n d sta n di n g th e re amu se th e mse lv e s a t th e e xpe n se
, , ,

o f t h e p a sse rs b y A fte r wi n di n g d o wn t wo o r th re e s tre e t s

-
.
,

fill e d w ith gr e e n mud n e a rly a fo o t d e e p a n d b a re ly bro a d ,

e n o ugh t o a ll o w a man t o p a ss m o u n t e d we a r rive d a t t h e ,

h o u se th e n o ccupi e d by Mr B e ll wh o m we we re gl a d t o .
,

fin d c o n s id e ra bly b e tt e r i n h e a lth th an w e h a d v e n ture d

to ho pe R ight gl a d a ls o wa s I t o fin d my se l f h o u se d with
.
,

a pr o s p e ct o f o ur ge tti n g s o me thi n g t o e a t .

O n l e avi n g Ai la t I h a d se n t my drago ma n t o M a s sawa ,

w ith dire c ti o n s t o fo ll o w me t o Ad o u a with th e h e a vy

b aggage So me d ays a fte r o ur a rriva l h e ma d e h i s a pp e ar
.

’
an c e brin gi n g with h im fi ft e e n p o rt e rs l o a d s
,
Th e N e ga .

dira s o r chi e f cu st o m h o u se o ffic e r h Opin g I sh o uld give

,
-

h i m a pre se n t t o h o ld his t o n gu e se n t t o say tha t h e mu s t ,

e xa m i n e th e go o d s a s h e c o uld n o t b e li e v e th e m t o b e a ll
,

m i n e but supp o se d tha t th e y pro ba bly b e l o n ge d i n p a rt t o

,

so m e m e rch an t wh o wi sh e d t o smuggl e i n hi s war e s u n d e r

my n a m e It wa s in va i n tha t I tri e d t o p e rsu ad e h im th at

.

fi ft e e n l o ad s wa s n o t much wh e n o n e h ad to bri n g a supply

’
o f a rm s sh o t l e a d & c fo r t wo o r t h re e y e a rs c o n su mpti o n
, , ,
.
, .

I th e n e n u me ra te d th e co n te n t s o f e a ch p a ck e ve n th e ,

ca rp e t s cl o th & c which I h a d bro ugh t a s pre s e n ts to

, , .
,

t h e Pri n c e H e still h o we v e r p e rsi st e d in h i s wi sh to ex

.
, ,

a mi n e t h e wh o l e which I c o n sid e ri n g t h e pro c e e di n g highly

, ,

un co n stituti o n al as firmly re si st e d d e t e rmin i n g a t th e same

, ,

ti m e t o ha ste n a s much a s p o ssibl e o ur i n t e n d e d vi sit t o

Oubi a n d t o lay t h e ma tt e r b e fo re h im. We a cc o rdin gly a
, ,

fe w d a ys aft e r s ta rt e d in th e dire cti o n o f t h e c a mp th e n a t

, ,
’
H o w z a yn Our first d ay s j o urn e y did n o t a dva n c e us far
.

o n o ur wa y fo r we h a d s c a rc e ly b e e n a n h o ur o n t h e ro a d
, ,

wh e n whil e ha lti n g i n a sh a dy pl a c e t o re st Pl o wd e n (wh o

,

w as s till a gre a t su ffe re r) I wa s sudd e n ly s e iz e d with a ,

F
66 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP I X . .

fai n ti n g fit an d wa s i n co n se que n ce ca rrie d i n t o a n eigh

,

b o uri n g h o u se My in di sp o siti o n was o f sho rt d ura ti o n for

.
,

in ha l f a n h o ur I wa s we ll a ga i n an d pro p o se d t o p roc eed ,

o n o ur j o urn e y but my co mp an i o n s n o t e x pe ct i n g so ,

sudd e n a r e c o v e ry h a d b e gun t o pre p a r e di nn e r

, O n this .

a cc o u n t a n d b e c au se we fo u n d t h e h o u se c o mfo rta b l e and

,

i t s o wn e r v e ry h o spita bl e we d e t e rmi n e d t o pas s t h e n ight

,

the re Ea rly o n t h e fo ll o wi n g mo rn in g we aga i n s ta rted

.
,

a n d a fte r d e s c e n di n g th e pre cipito u s ro ck wh ich fo rm s the

,

n a tura l b o u n d a ry o f t h e pro vi n c e ca ll e d D a bb a G a rima we ,

p asse d t h e village o f G addib a an d fina lly e n t e re d the ,

di strict ca ll e d A ssa H e re we we re o blige d t o h al t in the

.

’
middl e o f t h e ro a d P lo wde n s fe v e r ha vi n g re turn e d ve ry
,

se v e re ly a n d th e re b e i n g n o h o u se with in thr e e o r fou

,
r

mil e s ; but i n a fe w h o urs h e fe lt so far b e tt e r a s t o e n able

us t o c o n ti n u e o ur j o urn e y a n d we succ e e d e d i n ca rrying
,

h im t o t h e su mmit o f a hill o n which i s si t ua te d a village ,

c all e d A ddy N e fa s (th e Vill age o f Wi n d so ca ll e d fro m its ,

an u n cl e o f o n e o f o ur s e rvan ts
e l e v a t e d p o siti o n
) w h e r e ,

re si d e d Th e ro a d up t o it was e xce e din gly di ffi c ult both

.
,

fro m i t s ro ugh n e ss an d st e e pn e ss ; but th e fa ti gue we :

e n dure d i n t h e a sc e n t w a s amply re p aid by th e kin dn ess

an d h o spit a lity with which w e we re re c e i v e d o n o ur arri val .

H o n e y milk e ggs an d va ri o u s o th e r go o d thin gs were

, , ,

sp e e dily o ffe r e d us an d we gl a dly c o n se n t e d t o r e m ai n there

,

t h e n ight a lth o ugh we

,
might h a ve go n e s e v e ra l miles
fa rth e r t h e d ay n o t b e in g n e a rly cl o se d
, T o wa rd s the .

e ve n i n g o f t h e fo ll o w i n g d ay we re a ch e d a vill a g e o f H a

H a ily ca ll e d D e vra B e rb e ry t h e p e o pl e o f which h a vi ng

, , ,

a lre a dy su ffe re d gr e a t an n o y a n c e fr o m th e fre qu e n t s t raggl e rs

t o an d fro m th e c a mp we re much i n cli n e d t o t re a t us

,

i n h o spitably A t l a st afte r l o n g c o n sulta ti o n th e y fixed

.
, ,

up o n t h e ho u se o f a l o n e o ld wo man (a ve ry u n p ro t e cted
fe ma l e ) a s o ur l o dgi n g Sh e ha lf i n h e r d o ta ge m i s taking
.
,

us fo r so ldi e rs o r ro bb e rs s e t up such pi e rcin g cri e s t hat

, ,

t h e wh o l e p o pul a ti o n was i n a sh o rt ti me a b o ut o ur ears .

’
Th e ma tt e r was so o n u n d e rsto o d an d th e o l d cro n e s fears ,
 C HA P . IX . AN UN PR O TE C TE D F E M A LE . 67

we re in s o me me a sure
xpl ai n e d away ; but sh e wa s still
e
a n ythin g but h a ppy a n d I fe lt pity fo r h e r a s re ma i n i n g
, , ,

n e a r t h e b ut sh e k e pt pro wli n g a bo ut o n so me e xcu se o r

,

o th e r , an d
(a s sh e th o ught u n o b s e rv e d ) m aki n g o f f with
su n dry littl e a rticl e s o f h e r pro p e rty which sh e h ad ca r e
,

fully c o n c e a le d in h o l e s o f t h e th a tch o r e l se wh e re an d ,

th e n re turn i n g fo r o th e rs ta lki n g t o h e rse l f a n d so bbi n g all

,

t h e whil e in a mo st pite o u s man n e r A t la st I ga ve h e r a.

littl e pre se n t a n d taki n g h e r by t h e h an d a ssure d h e r tha t

,

s h e h ad n o thi n g t o fe a r fro m us a s we we re o n ly p e a c e a bl e
,

tra v e lle rs wh o far fro m d o i n g h e r an y wro n g w o uld e n d e a

, , ,

v o u r to give a s littl e tro ubl e a s p o ssibl e a n d b e ve ry ,

g ra t e ful fo r o u r l o dgi n g Thi s c.o m f o rt e d h e r a n d sh e sa t ,

d o wn by me a n d e n t e r e d i nt o c o n v e rsa ti o n t e lli n g me o f a ll ,

h e r t ro ubl e s h o w sh e h a d l o st h e r childre n a n d gra n d

,

ch ildr e n an d wa s l e ft a ll a l o n e O f c o urse I c o uld n o t but

.

sym p a thi se ; a n d it e n d e d i n h e r ge tti n g up a n d bri n gi n g

me a littl e so ur milk an d so me bre a d as a p re se n t ; an d

duri n g t h e re st o f th e e ve n i n g altho ugh sh e sti ll app e a re d
,

t o ha ve so me mi sgivi n gs with re gard t o t h e se rva n t s sh e ,

re ma i n e d n e ar me an d a t n ight bro ught i n all h e r tre asure s

, ,

an d la
y d o w n i n a c o rn e r o f t h e hut b e hi n d m e as i f t o p ut ,

h e rse l f u n d e r my pro t e cti o n N e xt mo rn i n g t h e e l d e rs o f

.

th e v i ll ag e ha vi n g it wo uld app e a r fo rme d a b e tt e r o pi n i o n

, , ,

o f us th a n th e y did o n o ur firs t a rriv a l o r p e rh a p s fe a ri n g ,

we m ight re p o rt ill o f th e m at th e ca mp a cc o mp an i e d us a ,

sh o rt di st a n c e o n o ur way an d th e n ,
biddin g us a go o d ,

j o urn e y se n t t wo bo ys t o sho w us t h e ro a d a s n o t far

, ,

o n ward was a d e e p ga p o r ravi n e which might b e c ro sse d ,

b y a fo o t p asse n g e r in a few min ut e s whil e th e mul e s co uld ,

on ly a rriv e by a l o n g d é to ur Th e p a th in fa ct which we
.
, ,

fo ll o w e d wa s so ste e p an d slipp e ry d o wn th e fa c e o f t h e
ro ck th a t we we re o blige d in so me pl a c e s to sli d e d o wn in
,

a sitt i n g p o st ur e A littl e b e l o w thi s wa s a n a tura l c a v e rn

.
,

o f such a siz e t h a t it wo uld h a ve fo rme d a c o mmo di o u s

place o f s h e lt e r fo r a p a rty o f twice o ur n u mb e r mul e s ,

incl ud e d : an d i n d e e d we sh o uld h av e p a sse d t h e day

, ,

F 2
68 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CH A P IX . .

th e re h a d an y wa te r b e e n n e ar at ha n d ; but l a ck in g that ,

e a t n e c e s sa ry o f li fe w e w e re c o mp e ll e d t o pro ceed
gr , ,
’
a lth o u gh P lo wd e n s ill n e ss re n d e re d t ra v e llin g v e ry p ai nful
to h im .

Afte r a s rrive d a t a n o th e r smal l h aml et

h o rt ti me we a

be lo n gi n g t o t h e sa me di strict as th e villa ge wh e re w e h ad
sl e pt t h e pre vi o u s n igh t Whil e re s tin g h e re t h e a ttack
.
, ,

which h a d a ll th e mo rn i n g be e n thre a t e n i n g o ur p a t ie nt ,

ca me o n an d we w e re fo rc e d t o se e k a d we llin g pl a c e To
,
-
.

fin d o n e h o we v e r w a s n o e as y ma tt e r fo r th e o n ly h o use
, , ,

fit fo r o ur a cco mmo da ti o n was tha t o f a pri e s t a n d he ,

po sitiv e ly re fu se d t o giv e us a dmittan ce a s t h e re was ,

C hurch pro p e rty i n h is hut U ltima te ly h o w e v e r after

.
, ,
’
mo re th a n an h o ur s fa tigu e an d an n o yan c e d urin g which ,

time o ur sick fri e n d wa s lyi n g u n d e r a tre e t h e priest ,

yi e ld e d t o o ur thre a t s an d pro mi se s an d gave us p e rmission ,

t o e n t e r pro vid e d t h e se rva n t s re ma in e d o ut sid e a n d that

, ,

w e w o uld a b sta i n fro m s mo ki n g i h do o rs Th e C hurch -

.

tre a sure ab o ut which so much fu ss h as b e e n m a d e con

, ,
:

si ste d o f a fe w o l d b o o k s o n e o r t wo small a n d ro ughly

,

ma d e bra ss cro sse s a n d so me scrap s o f c o l o ure d c l o th and

,

chi n tz which h a d l o n g sin c e se e n th e ir b e s t d a y The

, .

a p a rtme n t wa s v e ry s ma ll an d h a d n o ap e rtur e fo r V e n tila

,

ti o n but t h e d o o r which was so lo w a s t o o blig e o n e to

,

s t o o p o n e n t e ri n g a n d su re ly a littl e t o b a cc o s m o k e wo uld -

ha v e b e en ra th e r use ful tha n o the rwi se in fumiga ti n g the

pl a c e which co n t a i n e d an at mo sphe re p e stil e n ti a l e n o ugh
,

t o ge n e ra t e a n y a mo u n t o f typhu s o r ch o l e ra It s o h ap .

p e n e d th a t a fo rtn ight b e fo re a dro v e r p a ssi n g tha t w ay with

,

c a ttl e h a d l e ft a fa tigu e d a n d sickly cal f with o ur w o rthy

h o st Aft e r a fe w d ays th e a n i mal di e d an d t h e pri e st was
.
,

put t o a gre a t strait fo r h e kn e w n o t h o w fa r h i s wo rd

,

wo uld b e ta k e n by t h e ma n o n h is re turn I f h e k e pt the .

ski n o n ly h e might b e a ccu se d o f h a vin g kill e d a n d e ate n

,

t h e a n i ma l a n d if h e l e ft it o ut sid e e n tire th e bird s an d ,

b e as ts wo uld n o t l o n g all o w it t o re ma in i n th a t s ta te H e .

n e v e r th o ught o f calli n g wit n e sse s ; but wh a t did h e do !

7 0 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP I X
. .

ho use Sca rce ly h o we ve r h ad we b e gun t o thi n k o f re st

.
, , ,

wh e n th e myria d s o f bugs which c rawle d o v e r us mad e us

g e t up a g a i n.H a vi n g light e d a la m p o f t h e c o u n tr y a bit ,

o f c o tt o n o r ra g ma d e i n t o a so rt o f wick a n d la id in a cl ay ,

sa uc e r with so me butt e r we pro c e e d e d t o e xa mi n e t h e s tate

,

o f th e wa ll a n d o ur c o uch a n d fo u n d b o th lit e ra lly bl a cke n ed

,

with th e se di sgu sti n g i n se ct s which ran a bo ut till th e who l e

,

pl ace a pp e a re d a liv e Ev e ry cre vice wa s full o f the m an d

.
,

we h a d o n ly t o p a ss t h e flam e a l o n g th e wa ll to burn h un
dre d s a t a ti me Trav e lle rs in Abyssin ia mu st o f n e c e ssity
.

so o n b e c o me a ccust o me d t o t h e so ci e ty o f th e s e i n trud e rs ,
’
which i n fe st e v e ry ma n s c o uch an d wh e n I wh o fo r a l o ng ,

p e ri o d h a d n o t kn o wn wh a t it wa s t o b e with o ut the m ,

co n fe ss tha t th e y e n tire ly pre ve n t e d my sl e e pi n g o n the

pre s e n t o ccasi o n I le a ve my re a d e rs t o gu e ss th a t they
,

m u st h av e b e e n in ra th e r wo n d e rful pro fu si o n S e e i n g th at .

a l l h o p e o f re st i n sid e w a s v a i n we ro ll e d o u rse lv e s up in
,

ski n s a n d sl e pt o ut sid e i n t h e mud a n d ra i n

,
.

O n t h e fo ll o wi n g d ay we p asse d th e mo u n ta i n o f H aramat ,

o n e o f t h e stro n ge st fo rtre ss e s i n Tigré t h e n o ccu pi e d by a ,

re b e l a n d b rigan d o f th e n ame o f I skyas A fo rm e r Vice roy .

I b li e v e R as W e ld a S e la s sy) i s sa id t o h a v e l a id s i e ge t o
( e

t h e mo u n ta i n a n d u n a bl e t o t ak e it by st o rm bl o ck a d e d it
, , ,

fo r se v e n y e a r s Mo un ta i n s a l mo st i mpre gn a bl e by n ature
.

a re c o mmo n i n thi s c o u n t ry Man y are i n t h e h a n d s of

.

pri e st s wh o ha ve o n th e ir su mmits a mo n a st e ry an d sa n ctu ary

, ,

s uch a s D e vr a D amo a n d m an y o th e rs ; a n d t o th es e the

,

p e o ple o f th e n e ighb o uri n g pro vin ce s se n d th e ir pro p e rty for

sa fe ty i n ti me s o f war o r o th e r di sturb a n c e s A l m o s t e v e ry .

gre a t chi e ftai n h as like wi se h i s mo un tai n t o whic h h e re tires ,

in a mo me n t o f n e e d : C i st e m s e ith e r n a tura l o r a rtificially

,

h o ll o we d a re o n th e su mmit o f e a ch an d l a rge suppli e s of

, ,

pro vi si o n s are ge n e ra lly k e pt re a dy fo r a n y e me rge n cy .

M a n y o f th e se ro ck s ca n n o t b e a sce n d e d e xce pt by t h e aid

o f c o rd s o r ro p e l a dd e r s which a re le t d o wn a n d drawn
,

up a t pl e a sure N ume ro u s a mu si n g an e cd o t e s a re re lated

.

o f th e s tra t age ms e mpl o y e d by so me o f t h e mo re p o wer

C HA P . IX. A RRI VA L A T TH E CA M P 71

ful chi e fs to ge t p o sse ssio n o f s o me of th e se mo u n ta i n

fast n e sse s .

T o wa rd s th e t r
af e n o o n we riv e d
ar ,
in
h e avy sh o we r o f
a

rai n ,
at t h e ca mp o f H o wz a yn , an d pro c e e d e d i mme dia t e ly
”
t o th e d we l li n g o f B eje run dy c afty th e I kka b e yt
,
or
’
st e wa rd o f t h e Prin c e s h o u se h o ld wh o wa s a pp o i n t e d by h is
,
’ ”
High n e ss a s B e ll s b a ld e rab b a o r i n tro duc e r wh en h e
, ,

vis ite d thi s c o un try o n a fo rme r o cca si o n .

7 2 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . X
.

C H A PTE R X .

H owz ay n Tb e ba ldcrI Ibba —Il[isera ble dwel li ngs Tkei r constructi on

Our i n t) od nct i o n del ayed—D ifi cul ty of procur i ng foo d Vis i to rs

l il y n e ro se r va n t cla i
g med as a s la ve a n d en trapped —A pres en t—A n
A by ss I n I a n ca nt
p —
T/I c VI ceroy a n d k is fi lt ers S uppl i es f r om Oubi
D rI n kI ng kor n s -
.

I T is c ust o ma ry fo r e v e ry p e rso n ,
wh e th e r na ti ve o r fo e r ign er ,

a ft e r h i s firs t a udi e n c e with t h e P ri n c e , t o a sk fo r b al

“
a

d e rab b a , an d one of h is o fli c e rs is u su a lly na me d . He

b e c o me s a s o rt o f age n t a n d e xp e ct s yo u t o a ck n o wl e dge
, ,

by p re se n t s a n y se rvice h e ma y re n d e r yo u such a s a ssi sting

, ,

o u o ut o f d ifficulti e s i n w hich yo u m ay b e in vo lv e d o r o
y p r ,

curi n g fo r yo u a d mi ssi o n t o h i s mas t e r whe n yo u m a y d e sire

it . Gaft y wa s a b s e n t o n a n e xp e diti o n H i s bro ther .
,

N e go usy w a s a cti n g fo r h im a n d h e v o l un t e e re d t o pro cure

, ,

us a n a udi e n c e o f t h e Pri n ce with o ut d e l a y A t t h e same .

ti me a s w e a ppli e d fo r l o dgi n g h e se n t with us a so ldi er

, ,

fro m h i s h o u se h o ld t o e j e ct so me th re e o r fo ur p o o r fe ll o ws
fro m th e ir h ut s Th e y we re n o t o v e r ha ppy a t b e i n g turn ed
.
-

o ut i n t h e ra i n ; a n d I re a lly fe lt fo r th e m A trifli n g pre se n t

h o we ve r re s to ie d th e ir e qua n i mity a t o n c e a n d th e y left
.
,
'

, ,

th e ir a b o d e s ra th e r pl e a se d than o th e rwi se We e n t e red .

th e m e qua lly gl a d t o o bta i n re st a n d sh e lt e r ; but in truth

, ,

I thi n k I n e v e r p a sse d a n y p e ri o d o f my li fe m o re w re tche dly

than I did th e fe w d a y s a t H o wz ayn O f th e hut s o n ly o ne
'
.
,

h a d a w a t e rt igh t ro o f : it wa s a b o ut se v e n fe e t i n di a me ter
an d five a n d a h a l f high i n t h e high e st p a rt The y a re ve ry .

si mply c o n struct e d b e i n g o n ly a fe w p o l e s stuck i n the

,

gro u n d in a circl e a n d t h e h e ad s drawn t o ge th e r a n d ti ed

,

in a p o i n t So m e sl e n d e r gre e n b o ugh s a re th e n e n t wi n e d
.

ro u n d th e m a t i n te rva l s lik e h 0 0 ps o n a barre l a n d th e, ,

74 LI F E I N AB YS S I N I A . C R AP . X .

d o lla r altho ugh in re ality th e y co uld n o t h ave be e n wo rth

,

mo re th a n an e ighth o f tha t sum Al l o ur Vi sit o rs we re civil .

an d agre e a bl e All ask e d us fo r prese n ts b ut al th o ugh o ur

.
,

circu mstan ce s we re we ll kn o wn n o o n e e xce ptin g a lady , ,

n am e d Se n e d o u o f fe re d us e v e n a bit o f bre a d
,
We had .

give n h e r a little e sse n c e o f clo ve s an d sh e in re turn se n t us ,

fiv e ca k e s an d a di sh o f me a t s te we d i n p e pp e r a n d b utte r .

A n o the r c i rcumsta n c e o ccurre d a t th i s ti me t o a d d t o my

an n o ya n c e My se rvan t B a rn aba s a n e gro wh o m I h ad
.
,

e n gage d a t Ad o u a wa s cl a i me d as a sl a v e by a m a n n ame d
,

Lick I n ge de r i s a n Amhara titl e n e a rl y e quiva l ent

(L i ck .
,

t o a judge ) B a rn ab as h ad b e e n sl ave t o t h e la t e Lick

.

’
A tk o u I n ge de r s u n cl e
, A t th e e xpre sse d wi sh o f h i s mast er
.

’
h e b e ca me fre e a ft e r h is d e a th but n o w th e d e c e a s e d man s
n e ph e w cl a i me d h i m kn o wi n g th a t th e re we re ,
no le gal
pro o fs e xi stin g o f his right t o libe rty Even h a d th e re b ee n .
,

h e we ll kn e w th at h e re a s i n man y o th e r c o u n tri e s th e re is
, ,

littl e ju stic e sh o wn to a sl a ve to th e d e trimen t o f h i s master .

I n ge de r c a me t o vi sit us an d o n se e i n g t h e ma n h e pre ,

t e n d e d t o ta ke n o n o tice o f h im but afte rwa rd s e m pl o ye d ,

p e rso n s t o d e c o y h im t o h i s h o u se u n d e r pre te n ce o f in vi ting ,

h i m t o dri n k a n d whe n th e y h ad go t h i m fairly i n t h e po or ,

fe ll o w wa s se iz e d a n d put i n ch a in s .

Lidg e C a rsa i th e third s o n o f Oubi a la d o f n i n e o r ten

, ,

y e a r s o f a ge p a id u s se
,
v e ra l vi s it s H e fir s t as k e d us fo r a .

littl e sn u ff which we gav e h im the n fo r a swo rd This we

,
.

a t first r e fu se d ; but a ft e r man y a n d re p e a t e d e n tre a ti es I

gav e him th e o n e I wo re — ,
’
a l o n g stra ight F re n ch cuira ssi e rs , , ,

n e a rly a s l o n g a s hi mse l f H e w a s v e ry pro ud o f h i s a cqui

.

siti o u but it b e in g so l o n g a n d h e so sho rt h i s we a ri n g it

, ,

wa s o ut o f th e qu e sti o n ; s o h e h a d it carri e d b e fo re h im by
a se rva n t .

Th e a pp e a ran ce o f a n A by ssin i an p e rman e n t ca mp i s sin

gula r but by n o me a n s u n pl e a si n g Th e div e rsity o f t e nts
—so me b e ll shap e d so me square like an Engli sh ma rque e ;
.
,

-
, ,

so me white a n d o th e rs o f t h e bl a ck w o o ll e n s tu ff ma de
,

pri n cip ally i n t h e so uth e rn pro vi n ce s o f Tigré huts o f all

si z e s a n d c o l o urs an d th e ir i n mat e s s ca tt e re d ab o ut in gro ups,
,
C HA P . X . TH E VI CE R O Y A N D H I S OF F I CE R S .
75

with th e ir h o rse s mul e s & c fo rm alto ge th e r a picture s que

, ,
.
,

an d v e ry l iv e ly sc e n e I n th e c e n tre i s th e dwe llin g o f Ou b i

.
,

which c o n si sts o f thre e o r fo ur la rg e tha tch e d wigwa m s an d

a te n t e n cl o se d by a d o ubl e fe n c e o f th o rn s a t th e e n tra n c e s
, ,

thro ugh which gua rd s a re s ta ti o n e d th e sp a c e b e twe e n th e m ,

b e in g divid e d i n to c o urts i n which th e so ldi e rs o r o th e r

,

p e rs o n s cra vin g an a udi e n c e o f th e Ki n g awa it h i s pl e asure .

”
C lo se a ro u n d thi s i s t h e e n ca mp me n t o f th e I kka b e yt or ,

C hi ffra o r fo ll o we rs o f wh o m h e h a s a
”
s t e wa rd an d h i s
, , ,
’
la rge b o dy u se d a s p o rte rs i n ca se o f th e Pri n ce s chan gi n g
,

qu a rte rs an d as so ldi e rs i n ti me o f war A ro u n d th e se

, .

e n c a mp th e
”
aga i n Z e ve yn ia o r gua rd s I n fro n t o f
,
.

”
t h e se t h e N e ft e yn ia o r ma tchl o ck me n with th e N e ga ri t
, , ,

o r gre a t drums whil e

”
,
F i t O wrari s o r ge n e ra l s o f a dvan c e
-

gua rd o ccupy th e fro n t p o siti o n o f a ll

, .

’
B e hi n d t h e Prin c e s te n t i s t h e ca mp o f t h e Sh e ff Za gry ,
”
o r s wo rdb e a r e rs whil e th e ,
D ejjin o r re a r guard o ccupi es , ,

th e hi n dmo s t p o siti o n O n e a ch sid e o f th e ro ya l ab o d e

.

are t h e gre a t fe ud al chi e fs o f pro vi n c e s wh o ma y h a ve

j o i n e d th e ir ma ste r with th e ir fo rce s Ev e ry c o rp s o f ab o ut .

”
fi fty so ldi e rs h a s an o fli c e r ca ll e d a H allika H i s b ut is .

ra th e r la rge r th an t h o se o f h i s fo ll o we r s an d i s built i n th e ,

c e n tre whil e th e y e n ca mp i n a circl e a ro u n d h im

,
Th e .

H a llik a i s ge n e rally a fa vo urite se rvapt wh e the r h e b e ,

i n th e e mpl o ymen t o f th e Pri n c e o r th at o f a n y o th e r chi e f

t a in a n d wh en hi s ma st e r i s l e vyi n g fre sh so ldi e rs e v e ry ,
”
v o lu n t e e r fo r se rvi c e d e ma n di n g a b alde rab b a a fa vo urite ,

s e rva n t i s n a me d fo r thi s o ffic e an d in thi s way h i s ,

”
C hi ffra o r c o mp an y i s fo rme d h e b e co mi n g H a lli ka
,

t o th o se v o lu n te e rs t o w h o m h e i s thu s a pp o i n te d b al
d e rab b a As. H allika h e re c e iv e s a n d di stribute s th e
”
p a y an d a ll o wa n c e s o f h is C hi f
f ra T h e o n ly p o we r h e .

h a s o f e x e rci sin g h i s sup e ri o rity o ve r th e m li e s in h i s right t o

d e duct a sma ll sum fro m th e ir a ll o wan ce s Thu s i n e ve ry .

p o i n t th e re la ti o ns o f t h e Aby ssin i an H allika to h is

C hi ffra a re much t h e sa me a s th o se o f th e B o ul o uk
”
B a shy o f th e Turki sh irre gul a r i n fan try t o h i s B o ul o uk .

Thi s o ffic e r is e l e cte d by ch o ice o f th e Sanj ak (a chi e f o f

7 6 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . x

fo ur hu n dre d ) a n d d e duct s a small sum fro m t h e pa y o f his

,

so ldi e rs with p a rt o f wh ich h e i s e xp e ct e d t o giv e th e m o ne

,

me al pe r di e m Th e tro o p s in Abyssi n ia are fo r t h e mo st

.

p a rt c o ll e cte d fro m a mo n g th e wo rst o f th e p e o pl e w h o pre ,

fe r idl e n e ss in p e a c e an d plun d e ri n g th e ir n e ighb o urs i n war

t o th e mo re h o n e s t but l e ss e xciti n g o ccup a ti o n o f a gri cul
ture Th e y ha ve n e ith e r tactic s n o r di sciplin e a n d their
.
,

dre ss i s th e same a s t h e o rdi n a ry co stume o f th e c o un try ,

but u su ally cut in a so me wha t sma rt e r man n e r .

To c o n ti n u e h o we ve r t h e d e scripti o n o f o ur t e di o u s vi sit
, ,

t o H o wz a yn : o n t h e fo u rth e ve n in g afte r o ur a rriva l we

re c e iv e d fro m Oubi a supply o f fo o d fo r o ur s upp e r It .

co n si st e d o f fo rty thi n ca ke s thirty be in g o f co a rse r quality ,

fo r th e se rva n t s an d t e n o f whit e ,
t e ff fo r o ur o wn c o n “

su mpti o n Th e se w e re acc o mp a n i e d by two p o t s o f a so rt

.

o f sa uc e c o mp o s e d o f c o mmo n o i l dri e d p e a s a n d red , ,

p e pp e r but it b e in g fa st tim e the re wa s n e i t he r m e a t n or

, , ,

butte r . To wa sh a ll d o wn th e re wa s a n e n o rmo u s h o rn o f
,

h o n e y b e e r So me o f th e se h o rn s are e ight o r t e n in ches

.

a c ro ss t h e b as e an d fro m t wo fe e t t o t wo fe e t e i g ht i n ches
,

l o n g : th e y a re fro m th e San ga o x e n d e scrib e d by Sa lt I .

h o p e fut ure t ra ve ll e rs wh o o n me a suri n g th e m ma y fin d me

, ,

in c o rre ct w ill n o t b e in cli n e d t o a ccu se me o f wil ful e xag

,

t i I giv e t h b o v e a d me a sure me n t s o m e w h a t u n d er
g e ra o n . e a

wh a t my m e mo ry a n d th e o pi n i o n o f my A by ssi n i a n s e rvant
n o w w ith m e i n E n gl a n d w o uld m ak e it Th e a dv e n t o f .

th e se suppli e s pro v e d t o us tha t Oubi wa s a wa re o f o ur

a rriv a l a n d we fully e xp e ct e d a su mmo n s fro m h i m with o ut
,

furth e r d e la y A n o th e r day h o we v e r p ass e d with o ut any

.
, ,

i n vita ti o n alth o ugh a fre sh supply o f pro vi si o n s wa s s e n t us

,
.

O n t h e fo ll o wi n g mo rn i n g b e i n g t h e sixth d a y a fte r o ur
,

a rriv a l,
w e w e re w a lki n g o ut e a rly wh e n a s o ldi e r came ,

ru n n i n g a ft e r us t o sa y tha t w e w e re se n t fo r A cco rdi ngly .

,

n o t t o k e e p h i s Highn e ss w a iti n g w e hurri e d b a ck an d , , ,

h avi n g pre p are d o urse lv e s a n d c o ll e ct e d t o ge th e r o ur pre

se n t s w ith a s much h ast e a s p o s sibl e we se t o ut a tt e n ded , ,

by N e go usy fo r t h e R o yal H o ve l
, .
7 8 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XI .

with butt e r an d th e fac e s o f th o se o f o ur party wh o we re en

,

ca se d in a thin ski n which I am ha ppy t o say n e v e r was my

,

fa te w e re as re d as a fre sh ca p sicu m
,
.

A t l a s t w e e n te re d t h e gre a t h a ll o f t h e magn ificmt

l f Oubi It w s a ro u n d b ut a b o ut thi rt f t i
p a a c e o a .
y e e n ,

diame t e r with a l a rge wo o d fire burn in g o n t h e flo o r whi ch

, ,

h ad n o t e v e n a ca rp e t o f grass stre w e d t o hid e th e dirty face

o f th e o rigi n al e a rth H a vi n g b e e n pre vi o u sly i n st ruct ed
.
,

we e a ch o f us o n e n t e rin g ma d e a po lit e but va gu e ly direc ted

b ow . O n such o cca si o n s th e n a tive s u su a lly put th e ir he ads
t o th e gro u n d but a s we we re fo re ign e rs such a ma rk of
, , ,

hu mili ty wa s di sp e n se d with I ha v e sai d tha t o ur b o w was .

v agu e ly dire ct e d be cau se in p assi n g fro m th e glare o f a tro

,

pical sun a t n o o n i n t o a la rge a p a rtme n t light e d o n ly by a

sma ll d o o r o ve r which was su sp e n d e d a curta in a n d whi h
,
c ,

co mmun ica te d with a te n t witho ut it may b e i magi n e d that ,

we c o uld n o t so much a s di stin gui sh a sin gl e o bj e ct within .

Oubi in a v e ry p a tro n i sin g to n e aske d us h o w we w e re A

, , .

humbl e b o w wa s th e cu sto ma ry an swe r H e th e n d e sire d us .

t o b e se a te d a n d we a cc o rdi n gly sa t o urse lve s d o wn o n the

,

gro un d the re b e in g n o se a t in th e hut e xce pt th e o n e a ppro

,
’
i t d fo r h is High n e s s s thro n e My sight wa s j u s t b e gin
p r a e .

n i n g t o a ccu st o m it se l f t o th e d a rkn e ss wh e n we r ec e ived

t hi s p e rmi ssi o n but my pl a c e b e i n g d ire ctly u n d e r t h e le e o f

,

th e h o rribl e w o o d fire a n d sittin g as I did wit h i n a yard

,

o f it I wa s n e a rly su ffo ca te d an d in a mo me n t my e yes

, ,

b e gan t o str e am fro m th e e ffe ct o f th e smo k e w hich n e arly ,

blin d e d me I b o re it with t h e utmo st fo rt itud e t ill I co uld

.

e n dure it n o l o n g e r an d th e n start e d up with an e xcla ma ti on

'

O o f l a n d my e ye s re d a nd p o uri n g with
”
so me thi n g lik e

te a rs a t which Oubi l augh e d a ma zi n gly Gre a t me n I sup

,
.
,

p o se re quir e mo re h e a t than o th e rs in th ese co un t ri e s as I

, ,
’
can n o t o the rwi s e acc o u n t fo r Oub i s ta ste in hav i n g a la rge
fire in th e middl e o f A u gu st e sp e ci a lly i n a tro pica l cli mate , .

Oubi wa s se at e d re clin i n g o n a stre tch e r w hich was

, ,

c o v e re d with a c o mmo n Smyrn a rug an d furn i sh e d with a ,

co upl e o f chin tz cu shi o n s fro m b e n e ath o n e o f which ap ,

p e ar e d th e hilt o f a Turki sh sa br e W e fo u n d h im a r a th er .
 C HA P . XI . O UB I S ’
S TA TE A N D A PPE A R A N CE .
79

go o d l o o ki n g
-
,
sligh t ma d e man ,
o f ab o ut fo rt y fiv e y e a rs o f
- -

a ge ,
w ith bu shy h a ir which was fa st turn i n g gr e y , H is .

physi o gn o my di d n o t a t a ll pre p o sse ss me in h i s favo ur It .

struck m e as i n dica tiv e o f much cu n n i n g prid e a n d fa l sity ; ,

an d I judge d h im t o b e a ma n o f s o m e t a l e n t but with mo re ,

o f th e fo x th an th e li o n i n h i s n atur e Our pre se n t s we re .

bro ught in c o ve re d with clo th s an d ca rri e d by o ur se rvan t s , .

Th e y c o n si st e d o f a Turk e y rug two Euro p e a n light ca valry ,

sw o rd s fo ur pi e c e s o f mu sli n fo r turb a n s a n d t wo o r thre e

, ,

y a rd s o f re d cl o th fo r a cl o a k H e e x a m i n e d e a ch a rticl
. e a s

it w a s pre se n t e d t o h i m ma ki n g o n almo st e v e ry o n e so me
,

c o m pli me n t a ry re mark Afte r h a vi n g i n sp e ct e d th e m all h e

.

”
s a id ,
G o d re turn it t o yo u a n d o rd e re d h is ste wa rd t o ,

m
”
g iv e u s a cow O n o ur a ski n g fo r a
. b a l d e rab b a h e n a e d ,

N e go usy wh o h ad a lre a dy a ct e d fo r us in th a t ca p aci ty We

, .

th e n re qu e ste d p e rmi ssi o n t o re tire which b e in g gran te d we ,

b o we d a n d t o o k o ur d e p a rture gl a d e n o ugh t o re e n t e r o ur ,
-

huts a n d pre p a re fo r o ur re turn t o Ad o u a o n th e mo rro w .

T o wa rd s e ve n i n g o ur pro mi se d c o w a rrive d fro m Oubi

such a c o w ! s thi
a n a s a ca t— an a b so lut e b ag o f b o n e s ,

w hich c o uld n e v e r h av e re ali se d a n ythi n g a ppro a chin g t o

t wo d o ll a rs in th e ma rk e t ; such a s sh e was h o w e ve r sh e , ,

w a s i mme di a t e ly sl aught e re d an d b e fo re n ight n o t an ,

e a t a bl e mo rse l wa s l e ft .

O n t h e fo ll o wi n g mo rn i n g havi n g s e n t o n o ur b aggage ,

a n d p a rt o f o ur se rva n t s w e p a id a Vi sit t o o ld N e bri d W e ld

,

I n c h a e l o r We ldo Mich a e l ( so n o f St Mich a e l)

, H e is a . .

re sp e cta bl e o ld ge n tl e man bro th e r o f th e c e l e bra t e d N e b rl d

,

We ld o Se las sy (so n o f th e H o ly Tri n ity) we ll kn o wn a s ,

h a vi n g mo r e th an o n c e di s ti n gui sh e d hi mse lf i n man y

patri o tic re be l li o n s an d wh o i s n o w in pri so n
, We we re .

re c e iv e d mo st h o spita bly by th e chi e f wh o i n si st e d o n o ur ,

e atin g a n d dri n ki n g a lth o ugh we p ro t e s t e d

, aga i n s t it ,

hav i n g o n ly ju st bre akfast e d a n d a ltho ugh h e co uld n o t ,

j o in us it b e in g fa st ti me B e fo re we l e ft h im h e gav e us a
, .

pre tt ily wo rk e d bre ad b aske t a n d co v e r ma d e o f a so rt o f

-
,

r dy e d o f v a ri o u s c o l o urs an d s e n t a se rva n t t o a cc o m
g a ss ,

pa n y us t o Ad o u a an d th e n c e to h is ho u se a t Axu m p artly
, ,
80 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . XI
.

on h is o wn bu si n e ss an d p art ly to pro cure fo r us a l arge jar

,

o f wi n e . It wa s n o o n wh e n w e s ta rte d havi n g re ma in ed ,

much l o n ge r th an we in te n d e d an d so it was la t e w h e n we
,

o v e rt o o k o ur p e o pl e n e a r a h a ml e t o f t h e same v illage where

,

w e h a d sl e pt o n o ur j o u rn e y to th e ca mp We h a d t o wait .

so me ti me b e fo re th e y fo u n d us a l o dgi n g a n d e v e n th en we ,

h a d a bit o f a fight fo r it b e fo re we we n t t o b e d I t wo uld .

a pp e a r th a t so me o f th e vill age rs quare lli n g a mo n g th e m

,

se lv e s ab o ut t h e qu a n tity o f bre a d e a ch was t o firm i sh for

o ur supp e r h a d c o mpl a i n e d o f it a s a h a rd ship a n d used

, ,

i n sulti n g l an gu age wh e n s p ea ki n g o f us Th e ir l a n guage .

wa s e xc e ssive ly gro ss an d o ur se rvan t s alre a dy pro v o k e d at

, ,

th e ir me a n n e ss a n d wan t o f c o urte sy to o k o ffe n c e a t it and , ,

a qu a rr e l e n su e d which h o we ve r a fte r a fe w bl o ws h ad
, , ,

b e e n struck prin cipally o n th e shi e ld s o f e ith e r p a rty was

, ,

put an e n d t o with o ut an y se ri o u s mischi e f .

’
Th e n e xt d ay s j o ur n e y bro ught us to A ddy N e fa s ae co m ,

p l i shi n g i n o n e d a y w h a t i n c o mi n g h a d tak e n u s t h r e e days ;

t h e ki n d re c e pti o n we h ad pre vi o u sly me t with th e re ha ving

in duc e d us t o pre fe r c o n ti n uin g o ur j o urn e y l o n g a fte r n ight
fall t o h alti n g a t so me stran ge o r i n h o spitabl e v ill age It .

was n e a r mid n ight wh e n w e a rriv e d i n straggli n g p a rti es ,

h a vi n g l o st o ur way mo re than o n ce an d a fte r me e t i n g with ,

man y a dv e n ture s i n th e d a rk such as tu mbli n g i n to hogs

,

an d ho l e s & c , O n t h e fo ll o win g mo rn i n g ha vi n g started

.
,

a l o n e t o se e th a t o ur h o u s e was ma d e re a dy fo r o ur re ce
p
ti o n I a rriv e d at Ad o u a a b o ut 9 A M th e re st o f t h e party
, . .
,

c o mi n g in a t n o o n .

I may h e re re ma rk tha t si n c e thi s first Vi sit I h a v e been

,

t o H o wz a yn a n d o th e r c amp s but n e v e r i n th e s a me nu
,

c o mfo rta bl e wa y fo r wh e n I be ca me pro tem a n Abys

, ,
.
,
’
s i n i a n I h a d man y fri e n d s ; e v e n two o f Oub i s h o u se ho ld

th o ugh b o th o f th e m much o ld e r th a n my se l f) b e ca me my
(
a d o pt e d so n s ( t o ut M y pl an wa s t o g o s tra ight
I f a man
”
To ut lidge
- me a n s lit e ra l ly s o n o f t h e b reast .

w i sh es t o b e a do pte d as t h e so n o f o n e o f supe ri o r s ta ti o n o r i n fluence ,

h e t ak es h i s h an d , an d sucki n g o n e o f h i s finge rs d e cla res h im se lf to be
h is ch i l d b y a do pt io n an d h is n e w fath e r is b o un d t o as s is t him as

fa r as he can .
82 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CH A P . XI .

still r e fu se d to allo w th e ma tte r t o re s t b ut se n t us to say ,

tha t we mu st swe a r b e fo re a pri e st tha t we h a d p as se d n o

co n traba n d go o d s We a n swe re d that if a C hri s tia n pri est
.
,

( t h e N e ga d i ras w a s a M o h a m m e d a n ) ca me t o o u r h o u se w e

sh o uld h a v e n o o bj e cti o n t o ta k e th e re qui re d o a th but that ,

we c e rta i n ly sh o uld n o t g o a n ywh e re fo r t ha t pu rpo se The .

pri e st n e ve r c ame a n d so th e ma tte r e n d e d A b o ut a year

, .

a ft e rwa rds I mad e a cqu a i n ta n c e with th e N e a d i ras I h d

g ; a

th e n gai n e d so me littl e re puta ti o n in th e c o u n tr y a n d he ,

wa s v e ry humbl e a p o l o gizi n g fo r h i s p as t c o n duct and

, ,
.

ple adi n g that h e did n o t the n k n o w wha t so rt o f p e rso n I

wa s . It e n d e d in o ur b e c o mi n g go o d fri e n d s .

Sh o rtly a ft e r thi s time Pl o wd e n l e ft us t o go t o A xum for

chan ge o f a ir B e ll an d I re ma in i n g a t Ad o u a t o put o ur
°

thi n gs i n o rde r th a t w e might b e in re adin e ss t o pro c e e d on

,

o ur tra ve l s a s so o n a s h e sh o uld r e turn N o thi n g w o rthy of .

n o te o ccurre d t o us duri n g thi s i n t e rva l e xc e p t a li ttle , !

e n c o u n t e r with t h e so l d i e ry which was n e a r l e a di n g to ,

se ri o u s c o n s e qu e n c e s O n e o f o ur s e rva n t s ( quit e a lad)

.

wa s i n th e h o u se o f a fe ma l e r e l a ti o n wh e n a s o ldi e r her , ,

l o v e r se e i n g h im the re an d n o t kn o wi n g wh o h e was
, ,

b e ca me j e a l o u s an d d e t e rmin in g o n re v e n ge we n t o ut to
, , ,

c o ll e ct so me o f h i s c o mp an i o n s t o a ssi st h i m A wo man .

o ut s id e h e a ri n g th e ir pl a n s h a s t e n e d t o t e ll t h e b o
, , y a n d h is

c o u si n a n d th e y by wa y o f pre ca utio n i mme di a te ly cl o sed

, ,

th e d o o r thi n ki n g th a t e v e n fo r a p a rl e y it w e r e a s w e ll to
,

ha v e so me thi n g b e twe e n th e m an d t h e so ldi e rs O n th eir .

a rri va l t h e b o e n d e a v o ure d t o pro v e t o t h e e n ra g e d l o ver

, y
tha t h e h a d n o ca u se fo r j e al o u sy ; but a ll t o n o purpo se .

Th e s o ldi e rs thre at e n e d t o burst i n th e d oo r i f a d m i ssio n

we re n o t gran t e d th e m Th e n e ws re a ch e d o ur h o u se ve ry
.

quickly a s d o e s a ll such i n t e llige n c e i n Ad o u a fo r the

,

mo me n t th e re i s t h e l e ast a pp e a ra n c e o f a figh t th e w o men ,

o f th e n e i h b o u rh o o d m o u n ti n g t o t h e h o u se t o p s s cream
g
-

, ,

o ut
“
Mr So an d so so n o f Mr So an d so i s k i ll e d lo ng
.
- -
,
.
- -
, ,
”

b e fo re a bl o w h a s b e e n struck I n a mo me n t h i s fri e nds .

a sse mbl e a n d thu s a s truggl e fr e qu e n tly e n su e s w h e re had , ,

th e n e ighb o urs b e e n sil e n t, n o thi n g wo uld h a ve c o m e o f it .

C HAP . XI . A F F RA Y WI TH TH E S OLD I E R S . 83

On h e a ri n g o f th e plight o f th e u n lucky c o upl e t wo o f o ur ,

s e rva n t s w e n t o ut t o e n d e a v o ur t o e xpl a i n t h e ma tt e r ; b ut .

t h e so ldi e rs it a pp e a re d h a d b e e n dri n ki n g an d we re n o t a t
, , ,

al l di sp o se d t o li s t e n t o re a so n The y re ce ive d th e p e a ce
.

ma ke rs with e ve ry kin d o f i n sult Thi s wa s fo ll o we d by

.

bl o ws ; up o n which as th e y h a d go n e u n a rme d o ur me n
, ,

hurri e d b ack t o th e h o u se fo r th e ir we ap o n s Se e in g wha t .

w a s go in g o n we j o i n e d th e m i n o rd e r i f p o ssibl e t o pre v e n t
, ,

a n ythi n g s e ri o u s o ccu rri n g ; r e fra i n i n g h o we ve r fro m o p e n ly , ,

ta ki n g a rm s with us l e st it sho uld a pp e a r tha t w e h ad c o me

,

w i t h h o stil e i n t e n ti o n s So me h o w o r o th e r th e en e my h a d
.

g o t n e w s o f o u r a ppr o a ch a l m o s t b e fo re we h a d p a ss e d o ur

o wn ga t e s ; fo r we h a d go n e o n ly a sh o rt di st an c e wh e n , ,

turn in g t h e c o rn e r i n fro n t o f th e church o f Me dh a in y

A ll e m w e w e re me t by a b o ut thirty o f th e m c o min g d o wn
, ,

up o n us full tilt with th e ir la n c e s p o i se d a n d s hi e ld s o n

u rd I h pp d t o b e w a lkin g a littl e i n a dva n c e o f o ur
g a . a e n e

p a r t y,
a n d s o sudd e n a n d u n e xp e ct e d wa s th e ir a tta ck th a t ,
’
I h a d o n ly ju st time t o put a sid e t h e fo re mo st man s sp e a r
a n d cl o se with h im H e wa s a littl e light mad e ma n an d
.
-
,

w a s much e n cumb e re d with h i s l an c e an d shi e ld s o th a t I

h a d n o t th e l e a st di fficulty i n h o ldi n g h i m qui e t an d a t th e ,

s a m e ti me k e e pi n g o ff h i s c o mra d e s with a pi st o l which I ,

h a d pre vi o u sly k e pt c o n c e a l e d u n d e r my cl o th e s I wa s .

ra th e r a mu se d a t t h e littl e ma n wh o k e pt c a llin g o ut t o m e ,

i n a ha l f a n gry ha lf e n tre a ti n g t o n e
-
,
-
Le t me go : l e t m e
”
o ! B e ll h a d hith e rt o succ e e d e d i n pre v e n ti n g a n a ctua l
g
c o lli s i o n b e twe en th e re ma i n d e r o f th e p arti e s ; but thi s
a pp e a re d n o t lik e ly t o l as t a s t h e s o ldi e r s k e pt v o ci fe ra ti n g
,

Th e C o pt s (me an i n g us) a re up o n us with th e ir gun s

— a n d man y we re c o n gr e ga tin g t o th e ir a ssi sta n c e A t thi s .

jun cture it luckily happ e n e d tha t t wo pri e st s came up a n d ,

by th e ir ti me ly i n te rfe re n c e put a st o p to th e pro c e e d i n gs .

Th e b o y wh o h ad b e e n t h e ca u se o f a l l th e di sturban c e wa s
ta k e n by th e a utho riti e s tri e d an d h o n o urably a cquitte d ;
, ,

a ll p a rti e s b e c a me gr e a t fri e n d s an d ma n y o f th e so ldi e rs

,

ca ll e d o n us Th e o n e I h ad he ld i n th e scufll e a fte rwa rd s

.
‘
,

b e c o mi n g in ti ma te wi th me sai d h e sh o uld n o t ha v e ca re d
,

G 2
84 LI F E I N A B YS S I N I A . C HAP XI
. .

so much , on ly that I squ e e z e d hi s le ft arm aga i ns t his

s hi e ld a n d sa dl y d e ran ge d h i s ha ir whi ch h a d j u st been
, ,

n e wly tre sse d .

Sh o rtly a fte r th i s Pl o wd e n re turn e d fro m Ax um a n d he ,

a n d B e ll se t o ut o n a t o ur t o vi sit Mr C o ffi n a t A n ti c h a o u
.
, ,

whil e I pre p a re d fo r a j o urn e y i n to A ddy Ab o a pro vi n ce ,

o n t h e n o rth e rn fro n ti e r o f Tigre th e n so littl e k n o wn as n o t

,

t o b e pl a c e d o n a n y ma p . My pri n cipal o bj e ct i n go ing

th e re wa s fo r sho o ti n g an d if p o ssibl e to l ea rn so me th in g of
—
,

t h e n e ighb o uri n g B a re a o r Sh g lla

an a a r a c e t o ta lly un
,

kn o wn e xc e pt by th e re puta tio n the y ha ve ga i n e d i n man y

t hro a t cuttin g vi sits p aid t o t h e A by ssin ian s
-
Exc e pt fo r
.

s uch mo tiv e s t h e n a ti o n s ha v e n o t b e e n o n Vi s iti n t rm

g e s

fo r ma n y ge n e ra ti o n s. I wa s to ld much o f th e da n ge rs I was
t o me e t w ith fro m th e cli ma t e an d t h e p e o pl e a n d tha t the
,

o n ly t wo Euro p e an s wh o h a d e v e r be e n the re h a d di ed .

My cu ri o sity h o we ve r was ra i se d a n d I fe lt tha t I c o uld

, , ,

tru st to my o wn prud e n ce n o t t o e xpo se mys e lf t o a n y un

n e c e ss a ry d an ge r . I ha ve mo re o ve r al way s fo u n d t h at o f
, , ,

t h e p e ril s d e scrib e d t o a tra ve ll e r be fo re h e u n d e rta k e s a

ur n e y n o t mo r e th a n h alf n e e d b e b e li e v e d
j o , .
86 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . XI I.

ta n ce o f se v e ra l mil e s It i s fame d fo r its fe rtili t y pro duci ng

.
,

re marka bly fin e whit e t e ff th e sp e ci e s o f co rn m o s t e ste e med

,

i n thi s c o u n try N e a r t h e church but a t so me di s ta n ce

.
,

fro m th e ro ad i s a sp ri n g o f d e lici o u s wa te r
, .

F ro m t h e pl a i n may b e se e n so me o f th e mo u n ta in s o f
Simye n which th o ugh a t a gr e a t di sta n c e fo rm a pl e as in g
, , ,

b o u n d ary re li e vi n g th e e ye fro m t h e co n ti n u e d fla tn e ss o f
,

th e fo re gro un d A s yo u a ppro a ch A xu m a ra n ge o f small

.
,

hill s ri s e s o n th e right ha n d a bruptly fro m th e ro a d On .

’
t h e r o cky su mmit o f o n e o f th e se a t a sho rt h o u r s di sta n ce ,

fr o m t h e t o wn i s t h e church o f St Pa n ta l o o n (A b o un a
, .

Me n t e llin ) a s ain t fo rme rly h e ld i n gre a t e ste e m by the

,

p e o pl e an d th e re fo re much a tt e n d e d a n d rich ; but o f late

,

—
ye ars a s appa re n tly the re i s a fashi o n i n th e se a s in all
o th e r ma tt e r s — h e h a s b e e n much n e gl e ct e d an d c o use ,
°
qu e n tly b e co min g v e ry p o o r i s o n ly wa ite d upo n by o n e
, ,

o r t wo mo n k s wh o sub s i st o n th e ch a rity o f t h e fe w d e vo te e s
,

th a t still a tt e n d th e shri n e o f the ir o ld fashi o n e d p a t ro n -

.

”
N e a r thi s pla c e we sa w a n umb e r o f th e “
A bb a G o umba
( B u z a ro s A b a s s i n ic us) o r A by ssi n ian h o m b i l l
, a
qu a i n t ,

l o o ki n g bi rd n e a rly th e siz e o f a turk e y It i s bla ck the

, .
,

wi n gs o n ly c o n ta i n i n g a fe w whit e fe a th e rs Th e b e a k i s .

thick ra th e r l o n g a n d curv e d d o wn ward s whil e o ve r it

, , , ,

a n d a tt a ch e d t o it p ro t rud e s a h o m like sub st an c e t h e fro nt

, ,

o f which i s h o ll o w an d t h e e dge s ro ugh a s i f bro k e n

, The , .

’
bird s thro a t i s furn i sh e d with re d a n d blu e wa t t l e s like a ,

turk e y c o ck a n d t h e Si de s o f t h e b e ak with a p a ir o f black

-
,

mo u stachi o s wh ich w o uld d o c re dit t o a hu ssa r

, Th e feet .

’
a l s o are n o t u n lik e th e t urk e y s I bro ke th e w i n g o f o ne .

o f th e se bird s wit h a ri fle b a ll U n abl e t o fly h e t o o k to

-
.
,

h i s h e e l s a n d a ffo rd e d us a go o d run o f an h o ur w h e n he
, ,

w e n t t o c o v e r in so m e bu sh e s o ut o f which h o we v e r w e so on , , ,

s t a rt e d h i m ; but h e h a d b e c o me w e a k fro m fa tigu e and

lo ss o f bl o o d an d a ft e r a sh o rt ch a se o n e o f t h e s e rvan ts
, , , ,

c o mi n g up t o h im cut o ff h i s h e a d with a swo rd a n d so

, ,

sp o ilt t h e sp e ci me n Th e h e a d h o we ve r I k e pt a n d was
.
, , ,

n o t l o n g i n pr o curin g a n o th e r e n tir e ski n .

Th e ro a d skirt s th e fo o t o f th e hill s fo r a c o n sid e ra ble

C R AP . XI I . A B YS S I N I A N H O RN B I LL —A XUM . 87

dista n c e till a t la st a s mall plain o b e lisk o n th e n gh t ha n d

, , ,

a n d fa rth e r o n t o th e l eft a la rge ston e ta bl e t i n scri b ed i n

, ,

G re e k c h ara ct e rs p ro cl ai m to t h e trav e ll e r h is n ea r appro a ch

,

t o th e c ity o f Axu m F ro m th e t a bl e t a sh arp turn to th e

.

M l Ab b
a e a G o umb a. ( B us a ros Abu si n i cus .
‘

ri gh t b ri ngs h im in Vi e w o f h alf the to wn , which, b e i n g

s it ua te d in an amp h ithea tre o f h i ll s an d p o ss e ss in g a t o le
,

sa b ly w mll huilt squa re chu rch, p ro ba bly o f Po rt ugu es e c o n

-

’
n , farms al to ge th e r a ra th e r agre ea bl e cou
p d a nl .
go LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . Can . x 11
.

an d by cl e v e r c o n trivan ce are o fte n divid e d o ff so as to

a

fo rm se ve ra l ro o ms Thi s is d o n e by a n in n e r w a ll be ing
.

ra i se d a t a di stan ce o f a bo ut 5 fe e t fro m th e o ut e r o n e and

pa rall e l t o it Th e p a ssa ge be twe e n th e m i s th e n divided
.

by cro ss wa ll s so as to fo rm two med eb s (o r mud b e n ches

, .

fo r sl e e pi n g o n b b) a n d o n e ith e r sid e o f th e e n tran ces

, ,

( )
a a a re l e ft s p a c e s o n e,o f w hich m ight b e u s e d fo r gri n d
i n g c o rn a n o th e r as kitch e n an d bak e ho u s e an d t h e o thers
, ,

fo r sto r e r o o ms
-
Th e re s id e n c e o f a rich man m a y gene
.

ra lly b e kn o wn by th e n u mb e r o f j a rs fo r b e e r mea d co rn , , ,

& c whic h th e se last c o n ta i n

.
, .

Th e S e c tio n h e re gi v e n i s suppo s ed t o pass th ro ugh o n e or the

m e d e b s , an d giv e a v i e w o f t h e o th e r o n e a n d th e si d e d o o r
”
.
CH AP . XI I I . D E PA R TUR E FRO M A XUM .
gt

C H A PTE R X I II .

D epa rtur e fr o m A x um—S a n e tua ri es —A byss i n zan r oad s—A n at i ve tra

Tb e gift: of N a tur e n ot appr ecia ted til l n eeded—A da rk:
’
v e lle r s max i m

to tire s a tia ted—Appea r a ne e of tire co un tr

y T l i e Vill a e o
g f W i n cl

1njud ic i ous pr acti ce of ma ny t ra vel lers Ci v i l i ty t/ze bette r po li cy

I l l us t r a t io n f
o t/z is th eory —A boun teo ue Ii art Oubi
"
: Terka r
Gov er n men t mo de o f o bta i n i n
g py mea nt “
Tor t ure f
o i ts debtor: a nd

ot h e r pr i s o ner s —I n str: n ee of Oubi

"
: e un n i ng —[ mpoliey of ex t or t io n

WE w e re o re ma i n a t A xu m a fe w d ay s ha vi n g me t
blige d to ,

w ith s o m e di fli culty in pro curi n g pro vi si o n s fo r th e j o urn e y .

We l e ft it o n th e 2 grd o f Se pte mbe r e a rly i n th e mo rn i n g ,

.

T h e ro a d fro m th e p art o f th e villa ge wh e re w e l o dge d p a sse s

cl o se t o th e church a n d we we re t o ld tha t cu st o m a n d
,

re s p e ct fo r th e san ctua ry which is o n e o f th e mo st re ve r

,

e n c e d i n A by s si n i a re quire d a ll p e rso n s t o di smo u n t a n d

,

wa lk till th e y h a d a lto ge th e r a s se d i t s pr e ci n ct s A xu m .
,

a s w e ll a s Me dh a in y A ll e m a t d o u a i s a sa n ctu a ry o r pl a c e ,

o f r e fuge n o t o n ly th e church but a l so a li mit e d p a rt o f t h e

, ,

to wn b e i n g guddam A t Ad o u a t h e wh o l e o f t h a t p a rt
”
.
,

ca ll e d a ft e r th e church (in fa ct th e p a ri sh ) i s san c tua ry a n d ,

n o p e r s o n h a vi n g t ak e n re fug e th e re ca n b e a rre st e d a lth o ugh ,

h e wa lk a b o ut t h e public s t re e t s i n bro a d d a ylight s o l o n g ,

as h e d o e s n o t p a s s t h e p a ri sh b o u n d a ri e s Thi s pro t e cti o n .

h a s I b e li e v e b e e n so me ti me s i n fri n ge d o r ra th e r t h e p ri e st s
, , ,

h a v e s o me ti me s giv e n up r e fuge e s i f guilty o f a n y h e i n o us ,

c ri me b ut n e v e r th o se a ctu ally in t h e pre ci n ct s o f th e church

,

its e l f Wh e n R a s D o rya di e d a fte r ha vi n g e n te re d a n d

.
,

e v a cu a t e d A xu m h i s d e a th was c o n sid e r e d t o h a v e b e e n i n
,

pu n i s hme n t o f h is sacril e ge .

F o r s o me di sta n c e a ft e r p a s si n g th e church w e c o n ti n u e d ,
92 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C R AP . Xl i l .

in th e grea t Go n da r ro ad Th is a ppe ll a ti o n may give an idea

.

o f ma ca da miz i ng, wi th foo tpa ths, mi l es to n es , fe n ce s , & c h it.

h ere t he h igh ro ad is o nly a trac k worn b y usq an d a little

l r
a ger than th e sh e e p path s fro m the fac t of
-
,

o ve r it . Th e u tmo st l ab o ur be s to we d on
co un try i s w he n so me trav e ll er v e xe d with a th o rn tha t m
,

happe n t o sc ra tc h h is fa ce dra ws h is s wo rd an d cuts o fi the

,

sp ra y
. Eve n th is is rare ly don e ; an d I have b ee n
94 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . Ca n . x m .

fo r or h e e de d in a lan d whe re yo u ha ve tre e s in e ve ry h e dge ~

ro w a v e lve t turf i n e ve ry ga rd e n an d i n man y fie ld s a ri ver

, ,

al mo st e ve ry t hre e o r fo ur mil e s an d as fo r cl o u d s p e rha ps

, , ,

ra th e r t o o ma n y o f th e m .

Th e Go va Dirra a n d Mai Sh ut to ge th e r fa ll i n t o th e Mai

- -

Tc h a o u an d We rre y a n d th e n ce i n to th e Tac ca z y whi ther

, ,

al s o flo w t h e Mai Sh am a n d Dabb a B o urro u a ft e r ha vi ng

-
,

u n it e d th e ir wa te rs : th e se are go o d siz e d ri v ul e ts an d all -

,

cro ss e d o ur ro a d .

A s fo r t h e app e aran ce o f t h e c o u n try it i s i n ge n e ra l hilly ,

a n d t o l e rably w e ll wo o d e d b ut muc h va ri e d i n fe a ture

, .

So me ti me s yo u are cli mbi n g o r d esc e n di n g a hill o ck a n d at ,

o th e rs pursui n g yo ur wa y d o wn a s ha dy va ll e y o r a l o n g the

l e ve l su mmit o f so me ta bl e la n d We o n ce lo st th e tra ck to
-
.
,

th e gre a t an n o yan c e o f t h e p o o r i n ha bitan t s o f a n e a rly de

s e t t e d vill a ge a mo n g wh o se c o m fie l ds we wan d e re d fo r
,
-

n e a rly two h o urs till so me o n e c o mi n g t o o rd e r us o fi was

'

o blige d a t l e as t t o sh o w us which wa y we we re t o go i n o rder

t o o b e y h im . F o llo wi n g h i s d ire cti o n s w e re ga i n e d t h e ro ad ,

n o t much mo re t han a mil e fr o m t h e pl a c e we h a d l e ft it A .

little b y pa th l e adi n g fro m it up th e ;hill sid e in dica te d a

- -

vill age i n tha t dire cti o n a n d a s e ve n in g wa s n e ar we

, , ,

a sc e n d e d till it bro ught us t o a h a ml e t so s n ugly pl aced ,

a mo n g t h e hill s as t o b e a l mo st o ut o f sight o f t h e r o a d It .

wa s a n o th e r A ddy N e fa s o r t h e Village o f Wi n d fro m its

, ,

e l e va t e d p o siti o n a n d b e l o n gs t o t h e di strict o r p a ri sh of
,

A gh ab se rai i n t h e pro vi n c e o f MAito waro

,
.

Th e i n habitan t s o f t h e prin cip al h o u se t o which I had

dire ct e d my ste p s we re ye t o ut a t wo rk i n th e fi e ld s ; so l
qui e tly sat d o wn u n de r a large tre e a n d smo ke d a pip e till ,

a v e ry re sp e cta bl e but wa rm l o o kin g ge n tl e man fo ll o w e d by

-
,

thre e o r fo ur yo u n ge r o n e s h i s so n s o r d e p e n d a n ts passed
, ,

me a s th e y we n t i n t o t h e h o u s e with the ir a gricul t ural im ,

p l e m e n ts & c
,
o n the ir sh o uld e rs
.
,
O n p a ssi n g t h e s.e n i or ,

o f t h e p a rty ma d e a l o w b o w a n d wi sh e d me g o o d e v e n ing .

I tho ught the ir go i n g straight i n an d sayin g n o thi n g rather ,

un p o lite ; but still thi s wa s e xcu sable as n o d o ub t they ,

we re much fa tigue d an d mu s t h ave th e ir supp e r b efore

,
C HA P . XI I I . A B O UN TE O US H OS T .
95

the y c o uld a tt e n d to us H o we ve r I was n o t lo n g l e ft in.

,

su sp e n se I mme di at e ly o n th e ir e n try the re was a gre a t

.

h ust le a n d mo vi ng o f ski n s an d o th e r a rticl e s o f furn iture .

Me an w hil e o n e o f th e b o ys wh o h a d go n e in with t h e o the rs

ca me o ut aga i n bri n gi n g me a large bo w l o f n e w milk t o
,

drin k ; an d be fo re I h a d we ll b e gu n my se c o n d turn aft e r ,

e a ch o f my se rv a n t s h a d h a d h i s t h e r e sp e cta bl e l o o ki n g ,
-

ma n ma d e h i s a pp e a ran c e still mo re re sp e cta bl e th a n b e fo re

, ,

but n o t s o wa rm l o o kin g fo r h e h a d ta ke n o ff th e di rty

-
,

bre e ch e s a n d sh e e p ski n in which h e h a d b e e n wo rki n g a n d ,

was n o w b e d e ck e d i n a cl e a n whit e qu a rry o r sh e e t with re d ,

b o rd e r H e p o lit e ly u sh e re d m e i n t o t h e h o u se Th e bu stl e
. .

w e h a d h e a rd h a d b e e n o cc a si o n e d by th e ir pl aci n g ski n s a ,

c o uch & c ,
in t h e b e st hut an d re mo vin g so me co rn j a rs a n d
.
, ,
-

o th e r ut e n sil s which h a d fo rme rly o ccupi e d it H a vin g h im .

se l f a rra n ge d t h e c o uch fo r me h e se a t e d me o n it a n d th e n , ,

g o i n g o ut br o ught u s a g o o d s upply o f pr o vi s i o n s s e rvi n g ,

m e with h i s o wn h an d s a n d putti n g i n t o my mo uth t h e ve ry

,

s upp e r which n o d o ubt wa s i n t e n d e d fo r hi ms e l f ; n o r c o uld

I e v e n i n duc e h i m t o sit d o wn with me alth o ugh h e mu st ,

h a v e b e e n ve ry hu n gry H e a l so ga ve us a bu n d an c e o f
.

m ilk a n d co rn fo r th e an i mal s e xcu si n g hi mse l f fo r wh a t h e

, ,

c a ll e d s ca n t h o spit a lity by sa yi n g th a t t h e p o v e rty o f th e

ti m e s a n d h is la t e lo sse s h a d re n d e re d it o ut o f h i s p o we r t o
r e ce iv e a stran ge r o f di sti n cti o n a s h e wo uld o th e rwi se ha v e
w i s h e d t o d o o r e v e n a s h e a l wa y s h ad d o n e b e fo r e t h e l a t e
,

o ppre ss i o n h a d rui n e d h im N o r wa s thi s an e xcu se ma d e

.

up fo r t h e o cca si o n a s I h a d a ft e rwa rd s re aso n t o kn o w

, .

’ ”
A t t h e las t gre a t l e vy o f ta x e s c a ll e d O ub i s t e sk ar th e , ,

gre a te r p art o f th e p e o ple h ad run away fro m th e ir village s .

”
I n such cas e s t h e c h i c kka o r p e tty chi e fs o f vill a ge s b e
“
, ,

co me re sp o n sible fo r t h e p ayme n t o f th e wh o l e sum due by

t h e fugitiv es Our go o d l an dl o rd Te mme n o u wa s th u s re n
.
,

d e re d lia ble fo r sixt e e n tch an o r in t alams o f c o rn e a ch ,

o f e ight ma di ga s“
Thi s i f me a sure d w ith th e Ad o u a
.
”
,
“
,

o r o rdi n a ry meas ure m i gh t b e w o rth a t th e ti me a b o ut 6 0

,

d o lla r s ; but o n thi s o cca si o n th e Gu a l Ou ra i a m e a sure

“ ”
,

A d o u a wa s u se d ; n a y I b e li e ve
”
mo re th an d o ubl e th e , , ,
96 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XI II .

in v e n t e d purpo se Sixty d o lla rs (o r

fo r th e i s a large
.

s um fo r an A by ss i n i a n farme r ; but d o ubl e tha t amoun t

a l mo s t r e duc e d o ur p o o r fri e n d t o b a n kruptcy H e was .

o blige d t o se ll h i s h o rse mul e a n d se ve ra l pl o ugh o xe n to , ,

-

me e t th e a mo u n t an d e ve n n o w p a rt wa s u n p a id a n d h e was , ,

li vi n g in p e rp e tu al fe a r o f a vi sit fro m th e so ldi e rs o f Oub i .

’
Th e A bys si n i a n s ha v e n o sh e ri fis o fii c e rs sp o n gi n g h o uses
'

-
, ,
’
Q u e e n s B e n ch e s o r C o urt s thr o ugh,
w hich i n s o lv e n t d e b to rs
’
may p a s s an d ge t whit e wash e d Wh e n a ma n o w e s mo n ey .

t o th e ( ; o v e m me n t a b an d o f s o ldi e rs a re se n t t o fe e d o n h im
till h e pays wha t rs due The y tre at h im bruta lly a s a ma tter
.

o f c o ur e a n d o blige h im t o pro vid e th e m with t h e m o s t ex

s
,

p e n sive luxuri e s such a s butte r ho n e y (o f which th e y make

, ,

me a d) th e fin e st bre a d wh e n pro b a bly n o n e i s t o b e met

, ,

w ith i n t h e n e ighb o urh o o d ; a n d a l l th e se i n ridicul o usly

large qu an titi e s wa sti n g wha t th e y c an n o t co n sum e This
, .

tre a t me n t o f c o urse i n n o way t e n d s t o a ssi st th e ma n i n co l

l e e ti n g mo n e y t o pay h is d e bt Thu s if h e ca n n o t b o rro w .
, ,

h e i s ge n e ra lly re duce d t o utte r rui n a n d the n wh o kn o ws

o r c a r e s wh a t may b e c o me o f h i m !

Th e y have a pl an o f e xto rti o n ra th e r in ge n i o u s but h or ,

ri b ly cru e l Th e d e bt o r i s put i n pri so n a n d ch a i n e d by the

.

a rm . Th e iro n which i s pl a c e d r o u n d h i s w ri s t i s n ot
clasp e d but i s me re ly a s t ro n g h o o p o p e n e d by fo rce to
, ,

a ll o w th e h an d t o e n t e r a n d th e n h a mme r e d tight b e twe en

,

two st o n e s A t firs t it i s o n ly ma d e tight e n o ugh t o pre

.

’
v e n t a n y p o ssibility o f th e pri so n e r s e sc ap e A ft e r so me .

ti me ho we v e r i f t h e sum re quire d b e n o t fo rthc o mi n g it is

, , ,

kn o ck e d a littl e tight e r a n d so by d e gre e s till t h e hand ,

'

di e s th e n ail s dro p o ut a n d th e p o o r pri so n e r i s a t best

, ,

ma i me d fo r li fe D e a th so me ti me s e n su e s fro m th i s treat
.

me n t as i n th e fo ll o wi n g c ase
, .

Whe n o ur c o u n tryman C o fli n go t in to ill fa v o ur with

Oubi an d th o ught himse l f safe r a t th e co a st tha n i n his
,

p o w e r h i s so n J o h n wa s tak e n a n d put o n a mo u n ta i n with

,

t h e iro n o n h i s h a n d a s I h av e d e scrib e d ,
H e r e ma in ed .

to rture d fo r so me t ime l o si n g first h is han d the n h is e ye

, ,

s ight a n d a t l a s t h e di e d fro m th e tre a t me n t

, .
9 8 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . XI I I .

’
t e skar . The n fo ll o we d th e te rms o f th e co n t ributi o n to
b e l e vi e d Thi s t ax fe ll o n a ll Tigre but th e pa rt we we re
.
,

n o w i n w as p e rha p s o n e o f th e l e a st a bl e t o s upp o rt it .

Th e wh o l e o f thi s n o rth we ste r n p a rt o f Ti gre fro m the -

,

Tac ca z y t o t h e M are b a n d fro m A xu m t o t h e Sh a n galla

,
’
c o u n t ry i s go ve rn e d by Le mma O ub i s e ld e st so n H e is
, , .

yo un g an d fo o li sh a n d fo rge tti n g tha t t h e m o re h e ta ke s

, ,

r h —
thi s y e a r t h e l e ss h e will ha ve fo t e n e xt i n fa ct a cti ng , ,

a lto ge th e r o n th e pl a n o f t h e o l d wo ma n with t h e g o o se that

n —
l a id go ld e e ggs h e h a s by pill agin g t h e p e a sa n try to
, ,

e n rich h i s bruta l so ldi e ry e n tire ly rui n e d th e c o u n t ry , .

Th e a b o v e c o mp a ri so n i s n o t at all i n a pplica bl e t o the

ca se Sh i ré o n c e th e riche st an d mo st pro duct ive pro vin ce
.
,

o f Tigre a n d still c a p a bl e o f b e c o mi n g so u n d e r a prud e n t

,

go ve rn me n t might i n de e d ha ve l a id go ld e n e gg s fo r a wi se
,

rul e r N o w t h e l an d i s n e a rly de se rte d Wh e re o n c e we re

. .

p o pulo u s village s with the ir ma rk e t s an d a ha ppy an d

thrivi n g p e o pl e th e trav e lle r n o w se e s but a fe w w re tched
,

hut s va st tra ct s o f fe rtile l a n d lyi n g u n cultiva t e d a n d of

, , ,

t h e fe w i n h a bita n t s tha t r e ma i n ma n y th a t w e re fo rme rly ,

o wn e rs o f se ve ra l yo k e o f o x e n e a ch a re n o w t o b e fo u n d ,

clubbi n g t o ge the r t o cultiva t e ju st e n o ugh c o rn t o pay

th e ir ta xe s a n d k e e p th e mse lve s a n d the ir fa mili e s fro m
st arva ti o n .

I n th e e v e ni n g I t o o k a stro ll which wa s p ro l o n ge d ,

c o n sid e ra bly b e yo n d wha t I h a d i n t e n d e d by t h e wild

b e a uty o f t h e n e ighb o uri n g sc e n e ry a n d by thre e wild bo ars
’
tha t I fo u n d fe e di n g i n so me o f th e village rs c o m fie lds -
,

a n d which a pp a re n tly c o n sci o u s th a t th e y d e se rve d pu n ish

,

me n t fo r t h e tre sp ass th e y we re co mmittin g n e v e r a ll o wed ,

me t o a ppro a ch th e m th o ugh th e y l e d me a wild go o se ,

-

’
ch a se o r ra th e r a wild b o a r ch a se o f two o r thre e h o urs
,
-
,

d ura ti o n wh e n ge tti n g tir e d o f it I re turn e d v e ry l a t e t o my

,

h o spitabl e qu a rt e rs N e xt m o rn i n g h a vi n g pa rt e d with
.
,

Te mme n o u wh o h ad i n si st e d o n a cco mp a n yi n g us so me
,

d i sta n ce t o se t us right o n o ur way we re su me d o ur ro ute , .

Te sk a r i s a so rt o f fun e re al fe ast , w h e re ch a ri t i e s a re b e s t o we d on

th e r a n d th e pri e st s
po o .
C HA P . x m . CH ANGE OF S CE N E R Y .
99

N e a r th e village I fo un d a gre a t qu a n tity o f la rge ro u n d

p e bbl e s which o n b e i n g bro ke n w e re h o llo w a n d li n e d
, , , ,

with a n i n crusta ti o n o f b e a utiful a me thy st c o l o u re d c ryst a l s

-
,

so me n e a rly a n i n ch l o n g
"

A ft e r l e a vin g t h e l o v e ly pl a in o f Ma i To waro th e ro a d -
,

pa sse s fo r so m e di s tan c e thro ugh a hilly a n d ro cky t ra ct o f

co u n t ry wi n di n g th ro ugh wo o d s o f a ca cia s an d o the r shrub s
, ,

a n d at o n e p a rt ru n n i n g a l o n g t h e brin k o f a n a l mo st

.
—
p re cipit o u s ra vi n e A fe w t o rre n t s a t thi s se a so n o f t h e
,

y e a r s till co n ta i n in g a littl e wa te r but so o n t o b e co me d ry

,

—
c o u rse s till th e n e xt ra i n s r e pl e n i sh th e m an d a ha ml e t o r
,

t w o w e re p as se d b e fo re w e a rriv e d a t t h e stre a m o f Ta m
,

b ukh which b o rd e rs t h e pla in o f So le k h le kh a

,
Wha t a .

d i ffe re n t styl e o f sc e n e ry wa s tha t n o w b e fo re us fro m tha t

w hich we h a d ju st l e ft — t h e o n e a va st pla i n app a re n tly ,

fe rtil e but a lto ge th e r u n cultiv a te d t h e o th e r a wil d b a rr e n

, ,

m a ss o f fo re st a n d ro ck s Th e ch a n ge wa s a s it we re fro m
.
, ,

o n e c o u n try t o a n o th e r quit e di ffe rin g fro m it in e ve ry

,

fe a t ure a n d ye t with o ut an y gra da ti o n

,
O n e fo o t might
.

’
h a v e b e e n in th e Alp s whil e th e o th e r was i n a ge n tl e man s
a rk i n En gl a n d
p .

A t thi s p o i n t we h a lt e d fo r a sh o rt ti me t o re st t h e
p o rt e rs We w e re a b o ut to l e av e th e ro a d t o Go n d ar
.
,

w hich ru n s w e st whil e th a t which w e w e re t o fo ll o w t a k e s a

,

n o rth e rl y dir e cti o n .

H 2
l oo LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XI V .

C H APTE R XI V .

B ota ny and o r n it fio lo
gj h La m a/1) , v a lleys —B ea uti es qf tne pla i n

Mon keys Tlzei r emplcpfmen ts Tb e Cy n ocep/l a li Tactics on t /Ie i r forays

—Leaders a n d sco ut s— —
S agacity D welli ngs Tb e leopa r d Me i r gr ea test

l
c ev er n ess n ot en ti rel
y depe n den t on i n s ti n ct —A neca ote—I n sta n ce
'

qf
a ttac kmen t P ow ers of mi mic ryMode of capturi ng tlzem Tb e
n e n io n s ki te ca tch n —A curi o us r emed —A ca uti on
’
sli ow ma n s s to r
'

y ] g
-
g
-
y
to moth ers—M a i Q n oll o w P ol i ten ess of tire c/z re
f — H i s [l o us e/t o ld .

IT ha rdly b e e xp e ct e d tha t I c o uld fin d much t o in te rest

c an

me i n a va st o p e n pl a in lik e th e o n e we we re cro ss i n g A .

b o ta n i st wo uld n o do ubt hav e me t with much t o o ccupy his

a tt e n ti o n i n th a t bra n ch o f n a tu ra l hi st o ry fo r th e re was to ,

a ll a pp e a ran c e a gre a t v a ri e ty o f fl o w e rs gro wi n g i n th e

gra s s ; a mo n g the m a ki n d o f sca rl e t a l o e which i s t o b e ,

me t with al mo st e v e rywh e re i n Tigre a n d app e a rs lik e o ur

‘

, ,

go rse t o fl o we r a t all se a so n s fo rmi n g a pre tty o bj e ct in

, ,

th e fo re gro un d Th e man y va ri e ti e s o f mi mo sa s t o o with

.
,

t h e ir di ffe re n t c o l o u re d flo we rs—pi n k y e ll o w an d whit e

-
, ,

app e a r t o b e spre a d o v e r t h e wh o l e fa c e o f t h e c o u n try ,

wh e th e r ro ck o r pl a i n hill o r va ll e y ,
Wh e n in blo sso m .

man y o f th e m e mit a fragra n ce so p o w e rful as t o re n d e r the

’
wh o l e n e ighb o urh o o d mo re o d o ro u s th a n a p e rfume r s shop .

Th e j e ssa mi n e i s se e n i n pro fu si o n i n man y pa rt s b ut ,

pri n cip a lly o n th e hill s a n d th e re i s al so a b e a uti ful para

si ti c a l cr e e p e r (an ae schyn a n thu s) which gro ws lik e the ,

mi stl e t o e fro m t h e b a rk o f o th e r t re e s with bright dark ,

gre e n fl e shy l e av e s a n d brilli a n t sca rl e t fl o we rs .

a —
I sh o t fe w bird s so me pl a n ta in e a t e rs a n d whid ahs at -

Agh ab sare i a n d a fe w h awk s an d o th e rs o n t h e plai n ;

,

but i n Abyssi n ia th e quo lla s o r d e e p v alle y s a re th e best

10 2 LIFE IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XI V .

an ge r l o ve —a s fully an d distin ctly mark e d as in m e n They

, .

ha ve a la n gu age as di sti n ct to the m a s o urs i s a n d the ir

women a re as n o i sy a n d fo n d o f disputa ti o n as a n y fish fag -

in B illin gsga te .

Th e mo n k e ys e sp e ci a lly th e C yn o c e ph a li wh o a re as
, ,

t o n i sh in gly cl e v e r fe ll o w s ha v e th e ir chi e fs wh o m the y o b ey

, ,

i mplicitly an d a re gula r syst e m o f ta ctic s i n wa r pill ag i ng

, ,

e xp e diti o n s ro bbi n g c o rn fie ld s & c

, Th e se mo n k e y fo rays
-
, .
-

a re ma n ag e d with th e ut mo st r e gul a rity a n d pr e ca uti o n A .

trib e co mi n g d o wn t o fe e d fro m th e ir villa ge o n t h e m o un

,

t ai n (u sua lly a cl e ft i n th e fa c e o f so me cli ff) brin g s w i t h it ,

a ll i t s me mb e rs ma l e a n d fe ma l e
,
o ld an d y o u n g So me
, .
,

th e e ld e rs o f t h e trib e di st i n gui sh abl e by t h e qu an tity o f

,
’
man e which c o v e rs th e ir sh o uld e rs li ke a li o n s ta k e th e , ,

l e a d, p e e rin g cauti o u sly o ve r e ach pre cipice b e fo re they

d e sc e n d an d cli mbi n g t o t h e t o p o f e v e ry r o ck o r st o ne
,

which may a ffo rd th e m a b e tt e r vi e w o f th e r o a d b e fo re

th e m Oth e rs h ave th e ir p o sts a s sc o ut s o n t h e fl an ks o r
.

re a r ; a n d a ll fulfil th e ir duti e s with th e utmo st vigila n ce ,

c allin g o ut a t ti me s a pp a re n tly t o k e e p o rd e r a m o n g th e
,

mo tl e y p a ck which fo rms t h e ma i n b o dy o r t o give n o tice ,

o f t h e a ppro a ch o f an y r e a l o r i ma gi n e d da n ge r Their .

t o n e s o f v o ic e o n th e se o cca si o n s are so dist i n ctly va ri e d ,

th at a p e rs o n much a ccu st o me d t o watch th e ir mo v e me n ts

w ill a t l e gth
n f a n cy — a n d p rh p i th
e a s w so m e r —
t uth tha t he
c a n u n d e rsta n d th e ir sign a l s .

Th e ma i n b o dy i s c o mp o s e d o f fe ma l e s i n e xp e ri e n ced ,

mal e s an d th e y o u n g p e o pl e o f th e trib e
,
Th o s e o f the .

fe ma l e s wh o ha v e sma ll childre n c a rry th e m o n th e ir back .

U n like t h e dign ifi e d ma rch o f th e l e ad e rs t h e ra bbl e go al o ng ,

i n a mo st di so rd e rly ma n n e r tro tti n g o n an d ch a tt e ri n g with

, ,

o ut ta ki n g t h e l e a st h e e d o f a n ythi n g a pp a re n tly c o n fid in g in ,

th e vigil a n c e o f th e ir s c o ut s H e re a fe w o f t h e y o uth li nger

.

b e hi n d t o pick th e b e rri e s o ff so me tr e e but n o t l o n g for , ,

t h e re a r gu a rd c o mi n g up fo rc e s th e m t o re ga i n th e ir pl aces
-
.

Th e re a ma tro n p au se s fo r a mo me n t t o suckl e h e r o ffspring ,

an d n o t t o l o se time
,
dre sse s i t s ha ir while it is ta ki n g its
,

me al . A n o th e r yo u n ge r l a dy pro ba bly e xcite d by j ea l o usy

,
C HAP . XI V . M ON K E YS : TH E I R F OR A YS . 10 3

or by s o me ri n g l o o k o r wo rd pull s an ugly mo uth a t

sn e e ,

h e r n e ighb o ur a n d th e n utte ri n g a shrill squ e a l highly

, ,
’
e xpr e ssiv e o f rage vi n dic tiv e ly sn a tch e s a t h e r ri v a l s le g o r
,

t a il with h e r ha n d a n d give s h e r p e rha p s a bit e in t h e hi n d

,

qu a rte rs Thi s pro vo k e s a re to rt a n d a mo st un la dylik e

.
,

qu a rre l e n su e s till a l o ud bark o f c o mman d fro m o n e o f th e

,

chi e fs c a ll s t h e m t o o rde r A si n gl e cry o f a la rm mak e s

.

th e m a ll ha lt a n d re ma in o n th e gui vi n e till an o the r ba rk i n ,

a di ffe re n t t o n e r e a s sure s th e m a n d the y th e n pro c e e d o n

,

th e ir ma rch .

A rriv e d a t t h e c o rn fie ld s t h e sc o ut s ta k e th e ir p o s iti o n o n
-
,

t h e e mi n e n c e s a ll ro u n d whil e t h e re ma i n d e r o f t h e tri b e
,

c o ll e ct pro vi si o n with t h e utmo st e xp e diti o n filli n g th e ir ,

ch e e k p o uche s a s full a s th e y ca n ho ld a n d the n tucki n g

-
,

t h e h e a d s o f c o rn u n d e r th e ir a rmpit s N o w u n l e ss th e re .
,

b e a p a rtiti o n o f t h e c o lle ct e d sp o il h o w do t h e sc o ut s fe e d P
,

— fo r I ha v e watch e d the m se ve ra l ti me s an d n e ve r o b se rv e d ,

th e m to quit fo r a mo m e n t th e ir p o st o f duty till it wa s ti me

fo r t h e tri b e t o ret urn o r till so me i n dic a ti o n o f d a n ge r in
,

d uc e d th e m t o ta ke t o flight Th e y sho w a l so th e sa me
.

sa ga city i n se a rchi n g fo r wa t e r di sc o ve ri n g a t o n c e t h e
,

pl a c e s whe re it is mo st re a dily fo un d i n t h e sa n d a n d th e n ,

diggi n g fo r it with th e ir h an d s ju st a s me n wo uld re li e vi n g ,

o n e a n o th e r i n th e wo rk i f th e qu a n tity o f sa n d t o b e re mo v e d
.

b e c o n sid e ra bl e .

Th e i r dwe llin gs a re u su a lly cho se n i n cl e fts o f ro cks so as ,

t o pro t e ct th e m fr o m th e ra i n a n d a lwa y s pl a c e d s o hi gh
,

th a t the y a re i n a cc e ssibl e t o m o st o th e r a n i ma l s Th e .

l e o pa rd i s th e ir wo rs t e n e my fo r b e in g n e a rly a s go o d a
, ,

climb e r a s th e y h e so me ti me s a tta ck s th e m a n d t h e n th e re
, ,

i s a tre me n d o u s upro a r I r e m e mb e r o n e n ight wh e n o ut

.
,

lyi n g o n th e fro n ti e r b e i n g di sturb e d in my sl e e p by t h e

,

—
m o s t a wful n o i se s I e v e r h e a rd a t l e a st th e y a pp e a re d a s
s uch e x agge ra t e d by my d re a ms
,
I sta rte d up thin ki n g it
.
,

wa s a n a t ta ck o f t h e n e gro e s but I s o o n re c o gn i se d t h e
,

vo ic e s o f my bab o o n fri e n d s fro m th e mo u n ta i n a b o v e O n .

m y re turn h o m e I re l a t e d t h e fa ct t o th e n a ti v e s wh o t o l d ,

m e tha t a l e o p a rd w a s pro b ab lv t h e c a u s e o f a ll thi s p a n i c .

10 4 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AR XI V .

I a m n o t aware ho w h e succ ee ds am o n g th em Th e pe o ple .

say th a t h e so me ti mes ma na ges t o st ea l a yo un g o n e an d ,

ma ke o ff but th at h e se ld o m v en ture s to a t ta ck a ful l gro wn

,
-

ape . H e wo ul d d o ubtl e ss fin d such a o n e a n awkward

’
cu s to mer ; fo r th e a pe s gr ea t s tre n gth a nd ac ti vi ty an d the ,

w rfu l can i n e te e th with whi ch h e i s f ur i h d w uld

po e n s e o ,

re n d e r h i m a fo rmid able e n e my were h e fro m d e s p e ra tio n

, , ,

ll
Sku o f th e M inc ed B ab oo n ( ”a neurys m

to d an d d e fe n d h is l ife It is mos t fo
t
s an .

tha t th e ir co urage is o n ly sufli c ie n tly grea t t o i nduce th e m t o

ac t o n th e d e fe n siv e Thi s in d e e d th e y o nly do aga in st a
.

ma n wh e n driven to it by fea r : o the rwis e the y gen m fly

pre fe r prud e nc e to va lo ur H ad th e ir co m b a ti ve n es s
.

pro po rt io n ed t o th e ir phys ica l po we rs co ming as t h e y do ,

in b o di e s o f two o r th re e hu n dre d it wo uld b e impw ,

si bl e fo r th e n ativ es t o go o ut o f th e vi llm e xce pt in

pa rti es an d arme d ; an d instead o f li ttle b o ys

, , ,
« 1
10 6 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XI V .

h o ld in one of h is hin d qu a drupeds

h a n ds .
(A p es a re n o t ,

but qua dru ma n a ) Th e da t e man b e i n g s ta re d o ut o f co un

.
-

t e n a n c e a n d h i s a tte n ti o n dive rt e d by thi s e xtra o rdi na ry

,

mo ve me n t k n e w n o thi n g a b o ut t h e th e ft ti ll a by s ta n der
,

to ld h i m o f it a n d th e n h e j o in e d he a rtily i n th e la ugh that

,

wa s ra i se d a ga i n s t h i m Th e mo n k e y ha vi n g v e ry a dr o itly
.
,

p o pp e d th e fruit i n to h i s ch e e k p o uch e s h a d m o ve d o ff a -
,

fe w ya rd s th e cr o wd fo ll o wi n g h im wh e n a b o y pull e d h im
, ,

sh a rply by t h e ta il C o n sci e n c e stricke n h e fa n ci e d t h a t it

.
-
,

h a d b e e n d o n e in r e v e n ge by th e d a t e se ll e r wh o m h e h ad -

ro bb e d ; a n d so p a s si n g clo se by th e tru e o ffe n d e r a n d

,

b e twe e n th e l e gs o f o n e o r t wo o the rs in th e circl e h e fell ,

o n t h e u n fo rtu n a t e fruit e r e r a n d wo uld n o d o ubt h a v e bitt en

,

h i m se ve r e ly but fo r t h e i n t e rfe re n ce o f h i s mas t e r wh o came ,

t o t h e re s cu e .

I ha v e n e ve r tho ught it wo rth whil e to t e a ch m o n ke ys of

my o wn a n y trick s a lwa y s pre fe rri n g t o wa tch th e ir n a tural
,

a cti o n s
. I h a d i n A byssin i a a y o u n g o n e o f t h e sa m e bre ed
a s t h e l a s t m e n ti o n e d F ro m t h e firs t da y sh e wa s giv e n to
.

m e h e r a tt a chme n t w a s re ma rkabl e a n d n o thi n g w o uld ,

i n duc e h e r t o l e a v e me a t an y ti me ; in fa ct h e r a ffe cti on

was so me ti me s l udicro u sly a n n o yin g A s sh e gre w up she .

b e ca me mo re s e da t e an d wa s l e ss afraid o f b e i n g l e ft a l o n e
, .

Sh e wo uld s it a n d wa tch wha t e v e r I did with a n e xpr e ssi o n ,

o f gre a t i n t e llig e n c e ; a n d t h e m o m e n t I turn e d m y back

sh e w o uld e n d e a v o ur t o i mita t e wha t I h a d b e e n d o i ng .

Mr R o da t z ma st e r o f th e G e rman brig Alf c o mi n g up

.
,
“
,

t h e c o un try fo r a c a rgo o f an imal s fo r Mauritiu s g a v e me a ,

’
c o py o f P e t e r Si mpl e th e first En gli sh b o o k b e s id e t he
‘
,
'

B ibl e an d N a utic a l A l ma n a c tha t I h a d se e n fo r m o re than ,

t wo y e a rs A s so o n a s I wa s a l o n e I o f c o urs e sa t d o wn
.

a n d b e ga n gre e dily t o fe a s t o n i t s c o n t e n t s th o ugh I h ad ,

re a d it se v e ra l ti me s b e fo re l e avi n g En gla n d Le mdy .

wa s a s u su a l s e a te d by my s id e a t ti me s l o o ki n g qui e tly at ,

m e o cc a si o n a lly ca tchi n g a fly o r ju mpi n g o n my s h o uld er

, , , ,

e n d e a v o uri n g t o pick o ut t h e blu e ma rk s t a tt o o e d the re .

A t l a st I go t up t o light a pip e a n d o n my re turn fo u n d she ,

h a d tak e n my se a t with t h e b o o k o n h e r k n e e a n d wi th a ,
C HA P . XI V . M ON K E YS : M OD E OF CA P TUR E . 10 7

gra v e e xpre ssio n o f co u n t e n an ce wa s turn in g o ve r th e l e a v e s

p a ge by page a s sh e h a d o b se rve d me t o do with th e
,
—
diffe re n c e o n ly that n o t b e i n g a bl e t o re a d th e ir c o n te n ts
, ,

sh e turn e d o n e aft e r t h e o th e r a s quickly a s p o ssibl e an d ,

tha t fro m h e r a rms b e i n g sh o rt an d sh e n o t ye t much u se d

, ,

t o b o o k s sh e to re e a ch p a ge fro m th e t o p n e a rly t o th e
,

b o tto m Sh e h a d c o mpl e te d th e d e structi o n o f ha l f th e

.

vo lu me b e fo re I re turn e d D urin g my mo me n ta ry a b se n ce s .

s h e w o uld o ft e n t ak e up my pip e a n d h o ld it t o h e r m o uth

till I ca me b ack whe n sh e wo uld re sto re it to me wi th th e

,

utmo st p o lit e n e ss .

Th e se mo n k e ys are ca ught in va ri o u s way s O n e pl an .

a d o pt e d by th e Ara b s o f Taka h as s truck me a s t h e mo s t

s im pl e an d a t t h e sa me ti me a s lik e ly t o succ e e d a s a n y
,

o t he r . La rge j ars o f th e co mmo n c o u n try b e e r swe e t e n e d ,

w ith d a t e s an d drugge d with th e juic e o f th e

,
b sch e r
( A s cl e pi a s a rb o r e a
) a re l e ft n e a r t h e
,
pl a c e s w h e re th e y
c o me t o dri n k -Th e mo n k e ys pl e a se d with t h e swe e tn e ss
.
,

o f t h e liqu o r dri n k l a rge ly o f it

, an d so o n falli n g a sl e e p , , ,

a re ta k e n up se n se l e ss by th e A ra b s wh o ha v e b e e n wa tchi n g ,

fro m a di sta n c e .

To c o n clud e thi s subj e ct I mu st re turn t o my fri e n d t h e ,

’
s h o wm an a t K h a rt1i m a lth o ugh i n so d o i n g I a dva n c e
'

m o re tha n thre e y e a rs o n my o rigi n a l sto ry I b e ca me v e ry

in tima t e with h im a n d h is mo n ke ys —so much so tha t I
.

tra v e lle d with th em fo r so me d ays a ctin g as h i s a ssi s ta n t , ,

my duty b e i n g t o k e e p th e ri n g which I did by gra c e fii lly ,

swi n gi n g r o u n d m e t wo w o o d e n ba lls co ve re d with re d

clo th an d fa ste n e d o n e a t e a ch e n d to a ro p e simila rly
, ,
‘

o rn a me n t e d ; a n d o ccasi o n a lly t o a ssi st t h e mo n k e y s i n

co ll e cti n g co pp e rs I pa ss e d a v e ry agr e e a bl e time with

.

h im a n d h e to ld me ma n y a n e cd o t e s o f mo n k e ys a s we ll
, ,

as t h e u sua l ta l e s o f gho ul s fire wo rshipp e rs & c ; fo r ,

-
,
.

which a ll Egyptia n s e sp e ci a lly o f h i s e rra tic h a bit s a re

, ,

c e l e bra t e d .

O n e o f hi s sto ri e s h as o ccurre d t o me r ath e r a pr opos o f

o ur s ubj e ct which may a mu se s o me o f my juv e n il e r e a d e rs
, ,

a n d a t th e same ti me sh o w wh a t a high o pi n i o n t h e A ra b s
10 8 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CH AP . XI V .

ha ve of a
’
mo n k e y s in te ll e ctua l p o we rs My fri e n d th e .

b a hluan assure d me th a t h e b e li e v e d it A fri e n d o f h is, .

a v e ry cr e dibl e ma n , o n e wh o pra y e d a n d fas t e d , h a d t o ld

h i m t h e st o ry, an d h e b e li e v e d it o n h is acc o u n t , as w e ll as
fro m h i s o wn e xp e ri e n c e o f th e saga city o f th e se a n ima ls .

Th e st o ry b e gan as u su a l with a mo st b e a uti ful p a la c e in a

m o st b e a uti ful ci ty, b e l o n gi n g t o a mo st wi se a n d ju st ki n g,
wh o h ad a mo st b e aut ifi fld a ughte r, an d a mo st cu n n i n g b ut
wick e d wi z fr N e a rly a ll A ra b sto ri e s be gin so m e t h in g
.

a fte r thi s fa shi o n but I re me mb e r n o mo re o f t h a t p a rt o f

,

th e t ry than tha t th e ki n g h a d o rd e re d th e wi z fr t o b e
s o ,

ca st i n to pri so n an d that h e wa s sittin g smo kin g at a

,

win d o w l o o ki n g i n to th e gre a t s qu a r e be fo re h i s p al a ce ,

pro b a bly thin kin g who m h e sho uld cho o se t o s ucc e e d his
di sgra c e d min i st e r It so h app e n e d tha t a mo n k e y man
.
-
,
’
fa tigu e d by h i s d a y s wo rk s ea t e d hi mse l f with h i s mo n key
,

in th e squ are e xa ctly u n d e r th e wi n d o w whe re th e kin g was

smo ki n g a n d h a v i n g light e d a fire pr e p a re d fo o d w h e r e with
, , ,

t o r e fre sh hi mse l f Whil e th e po t wa s ye t bo ili n g h e h ea rd “

.

’
th e mu e zzi n s

cl e a r w a rn i n g v o i ce ,

Wh ich is sue d ro un d th e n e ighb o uri n g mi n a re t

an d, like a go o d Mu ssulman ro se imme di a te ly t o p e rfo rm

,

h is a bluti o n s pre v i o u s t o pra ye r B e fo re go i n g b e c o n.

sign e d t h e c o o k e ry t o t h e ca re o f t h e mo n k e y wh o it , ,

a pp e a r s a mo n g h is o th e r a cc o mpli sh me n t s h a d b e e n ta ught
, ,

t o mi n d th a t t h e me a t w a s n o t o v e r d o n e a n d th a t th e pot -
,

did n o t b o il o v e r a cc o rdi n gly wh e n h i s mast e r wa s go n e

, ,

h e sa t d o wn by t h e fire a n d e mpl o ye d h i s l e i sur e ti me in

,

i n v e stigatin g t h e c o n te n t s o f h i s fur tryi n g t o pick up bits ,

o f re d h o t e m b e rs a n d burn i n g h i s fi n g e rs i n t h e a tt e mpt
-
, ,

rubbi n g th e m o n t h e gro u n d fo r a fe w min ute s a n d then ,

burn i n g th e m aga i n a n d such lik e in n o ce n t an d a gre e able

,

di v e r si o n s A ft e r so me ti me thin kin g tha t t h e fo w l which

.
,

w as b o ili n g mu s t b e n e arly c o o k e d h e li fte d up t h e l id an d ,

ta st e d it ; fin din g it ve ry go o d h e so o n ta ste d it again , ,

a n d s o o n till a t l as t h e h a d e a t e n it all up
,
H e d i d not .
1 10 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P XI V
. .

the n in a ll pro b abi li ty t h e ju st an d wi se mo n a rch o rd ered

h is cu n n in g an d wick e d wi z fr t o l o se h i s h e a d a n d made ,

o n e o r o th e r o f o ur fri e n d s ( ma n o r m o n k e y) o r b o th o f ,

th e m wi z fr in h i s pl ace an d the n ma rri e d o n e o r o th e r o r

, , ,

b o th o f th e m t o h is mo st b e a uti ful daughte r a n d a t l ast at

, , ,

h i s d e a th o n e o r o th e r o r b o th o f th e m succ e e d e d t o his
, , ,

kin gd o m a n d wa s o r we re bl e sse d with twe lv e ma l e child ren

, ,

a n d e n j o y e d h a ppi n e ss t we n ty fo ur d e gre e s a n d re ign e d

-

, ,

b e l o v e d an d re sp e cte d by e ve ryb o dy sixty ye ars an d s e venty ,

mo rn in g s .

I might cite man y mo re an e cdo t e s o f th e i n t e llig e n ce of

th e se a n ima l s b o th fro m p e rso n a l o b se rva ti o n an d sto ries
,

I h av e h e a rd did I n o t co n c e ive tha t the y h a v e a lre ady

,
’
t a ke n up sufli c ie n t o f my time a s we ll as m y r e ader s .

M e an whil e th e p o rt e rs a n d b agga ge ha ve a dva n c e d a good

di stan ce o n th e ro a d a n d it may b e a s we ll t o re j o in th e m
, .

I se ld o m ro d e pr e fe rri n g a l ways t o wa lk e xc e pt after

, ,

me al s o r wh e n th e c o u n try was dull an d un i n te re sti n g an d

, ,

th e n I ge n e ra lly man age d t o d o z e o n my sa ddle Tha t day .

,

a fte r lu n ch e o n I wa s ridi n g a l o n g h a l f a sl e e p e n j o yi n g my
, ,

pip e an d th e wa rmth o f th e mi d d ay sun whe n Sa i d p o in ted -

,

o ut t o m e i n a fi e ld a t a s h o rt di st an c e o ff a w ild s o w an d
, ,

h e r fo u r littl e pigs fe e di n g H av in g but littl e m e a t i n o ur

.

pro v i si o n w e th o ught thi s a n o pp o rtu n ity o f s t o ckin g o ur

,

la rd e r wh ich o ught n o t t o b e n e gl e ct e d a n d s o sta rt e d in

, ,

pu rsuit o f th e m Thi s i s ab o ut th e o n ly time I h a v e e ver

.

se e n a w ild pig o ut fe e di n g a t so u n u su a l an h o ur ; th e se

w e re e vid e n t ly a wa re o f th e ir in di scr e ti o n an d k e pt stri ct ,

gu a rd fo r a lth o ugh we ma d e o ur a pp ro a ch with th e utmo st

cauti o n th e y p e rc e ive d us a n d it wa s n o t till a ft e r a l o ng
, ,

pursuit a n d ma n y circuito u s a d v an ce s tha t a id e d by a ,

rav i n e d o wn which w e cra wl e d we succ e e d e d i n ge tting ,

withi n sh o t o f th e m I kill e d th e so w a n d Sa 1d s ho t a silly

.
,

p o rk e r th at c a me ru n n in g dire ctly t o wa rd s us S o m e .

s o ldi e rs h a d fo ll o w e d us fr o m th e ro a d an d a s so o n as the

so w fe ll o n e o f th e m ra n up t o h e r a n d pi e rci n g h e r n e ck
, , ,

with h i s l a n ce gr e e d ily dra n k t h e bl o o d which p o ure d o ut

, .

O n my i n quiri n g th e mo tiv e o f such a n e xtra o rdi n a ry pro

C R AP x l v
. . M A I Q UOLL O W . 1 11

c e e din g, he t o ld me tha t th e bl o o d a n d fle sh o f t h e pig

w e re c o n sid e re d a s a cure fo r a di sagre e a bl e mal a dy with
w hich h e wa s tr o ubl e d ; a lth o ugh I d o ubt e d i t s e ffica cy I ,

ga v e h i m an d h i s c o mp an i o n s p a rt o f th e me a t a lso re se rvi n g ,

a le g a n d th e p o rk e r fo r o ur o wn c o n su mpti o n .

Thi s id e a o f th e fl e sh an d bl o o d o f swi n e b e in g me dicin al

i s I ha ve si n ce fo un d co mmo n in Abyssi n ia
, , Th e o n ly
.

c a u se I c a n sugge st fo r it s o rigi n is tha t p o ssibly so me ,

o f t h e n a tiv e s may h a v e se e n Euro p e a n s i n fo rm e r ti me s

u sin g th e la rd fo r makin g me rcuri a l o i n t me n t ; a n d thu s

g e t ti n g h o ld o f th e wro n g e n d o f th e sto ry may ha v e ,

i magin e d it t o hav e b e e n th e me dici n a l p art o f th e c o m

p o un d .

T o wa rd s e ve n i n g we a rrive d a t a pre tty littl e ha ml e t

ca ll e d Mai Q uo llo w t h e bro o k fro m which it ta ke s i ts
’
n a me ( th e C hild s Wa t e r) fl o w s cl o s e by fo rmi n g a ca s ca d e , ,

n o t far fro m th e h o u se s ,picture squ e but n o t a t all o n a

,

l a rge sca l e in d e e d I am n o t awa re o f an y la rge wa t e rfa ll s

—
,

i n thi s p a rt o f Africa e v e n t h e fa r fame d c at a ract s o f th e

-

N il e a re littl e b e tt e r th an ra pid s .

S e e i n g n o o n e ab o ut I sa t d o wn u n d e r a tre e but h a d
, ,

sca rc e ly d o n e s o wh e n t h e chi e f o f t h e vill a ge c a me o ut ,

w ith h i s cl o th l o w e r e d so a s t o l e a v e h i s s h o uld r
e s b r
a e — a

sign o f t h e gre te st re sp e ct
a a n m —
d hu ility a n d with mo re
tha n Euro p e an p o lite n e ss upbra ide d me fo r n o t ha vi n g
e n t e r e d h i s h o u se a t o n c e H e c o n duct e d me t o h i s b e st
.

h ut w h e n c e h e h a d e j e ct e d h i s w i fe a n d fa mily a n d a ft e r
, , ,

se e i n g m e c o mfo rta bly se ttl e d bro ught m e a go a t a n d s o me

,

b e e r a n d n o thi n g tha t I c o uld say wo uld i n duce h i m t o si t

d o wn o r t o d e si st fro m se rvin g me with h i s o wn h an d s H e
,
.

h ad n e v e r b e fo re se en a Euro p e an n o r e ve n h e a rd t a lk o f
,

whit e m e n e xc e ptin g th e G re e k s ilve rsmith s a t Ad o u a so

, ,

tha t it c o uld ha v e b e e n fro m n o h o p e o f re wa rd th a t h e

be ha v e d th us lib e rally R ai n co mi n g o n to wa rd s n igh t I
.
,

be gge d h i m t o r e turn with h is fa mily t o t h e b ut I o ccupi e d ,

th e o n ly w a t e rpr o o f o n e o f th e lo t ; it wa s with di ffi culty I

i n duc e d h im t o d o so an d e v e n wh e n h e did c o mply it wa s
, , ,

with m a n y a p o l o gi e s fo r t h e i n tru si o n .B e fo re w e w e n t t o
1 12 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XI V
.

l p h e g0 t mo re at e as e afte r h a vi n g discusse d t h e greater

s ee ,

pa rt o f a la rge jar o f be e r an d i t e n d e d by n o t o n ly himse lf

, ,

wi fe an d fo ur childre n j o i n i n g me in th e hut b ut also two

, ,

d o n ke ys a lo t o f go a ts (which we re ki n d e n o ugh t o ju mp o n
,

t o my c o uch an d e ve ry n o w a n d t h e n to run a b o ut me in
,

t h e mo st fri sky man n e r) a n d a wh o l e tri be o f fo wl s a large

, ,

pro p o rti o n o f which ro o ste d e xa ctly o ve r my h e a d .

1 14 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P XV . .

as s iduity in ru nn in g b e fo re my mule so me with th e ir swo rds ,

cutti n g a wa y t h e b o ugh s o the rs wa rdin g the m o ff wi t h the ir

,

s hi e ld s, I fo un d it i mp o ssible to rid e Lo n g b e fo re we .

a rrive d a t o ur d e sti n a ti o n I h ad sc a rc e ly a ra
g l e ft t o m y
b ack o r a squa re i n ch o f who l e skin to my bo dy .

Se me ma i s a fe rtil e di stri ct b e i n g wa te re d by a st rea m of ,

s o me siz e which run n i n g with a c o n sid era bl e fa ll i s pro

, , ,

fita b ly u se d by th e in h a bita n t s of th e n e ighb o urin g v illages

fo r irriga ti o n i ts wa t e rs b e in g carri e d o v e r th e la n d at
,

di ffe re n t l e v e l s The se a rtificial aid s littl e pxa c ti se d e lse

.
,

wh e re in Tigre ca u se th e n atura lly fe rtil e so il t o pro duce

,

n o t o n ly a g re a t qu an tity but al so al l th e vari e t i e s o f the

,

v e ge tabl e s kn o wn i n th e c o u n try .

C l o se by o n a hi ll i s t h e c amp fo rme rly o ccupi e d b y

, , ,

Le mma b ut n o w by h i s B e lla dt I n k ata Ob sab ius A n u mb er

, .

o f so ldi e rs we re bu sy washi n g th e ir cl o the s a t t h e bro o k for

t h e c o mi n g fe a st o f Ma sc a l As we p a sse d th e y c o uld n ot
.

r e frai n fro m givi n g us man y wo uld b e wittici sms a t o ur -

e xp e n se . Stran ge t o say t h e Abyssi n ia n s qui z n o t o nly

,

th e whit e s ab o ut th e ir c o l o ur but a l so th e bl ack s i n fact

, ,

e v e ry o n e wh o i s n o t o f th e ir o wn cafl a u la i t mix ture

i
At - -
.

H o wz ayn a s I b e fo re sa id we white s we re t h e o bj e ct of
, ,

th e ir satire whil e o n thi s o cca sio n my drago man Sai d who

, , , ,

wa s a bl a ck fro m K o rd o fa n wa s p o lite ly re qu e ste d t o ju mp

, ,

i f p o ssi b l e o v e r th e st re a m l e st h e sh o uld turn it i n t o ink

, ,

by putti n g h is fo o t i n to it .

F a rth e r o n we me t s e v e ral p a rti e s o f so ldi e rs j o i n in g the

c amp fro m A ddy Ab o whith e r we we re b o u n d a n d where
, ,

th e y h ad b e e n sta ti o n e d fo r so me time past H e a rtily glad .

we re we t o se e th e m l e a vi n g th e pl a c e fo r th e re i s no ,

pl e a sure i n livi ng in th e sa me vill age with th e m N o t o nly .

d o th e y a n n o y yo u with th e ir be ggi n g vi sits an d o th e r in tru

si o n s but th e y are a l s o o ft e n t h e ca u se o f re d uci n g ou
, y
t o t h e b o rd e rs o f sta rv a ti o n ; fo r fro m fe a r o f th e m the , ,

p e asa n try will n e ith e r b ri n g an y pro duc e t o th e m arke t nor ,

e v e n se ll it i n th e ir o wn h o u se s Oubi do e s n o t pe rmit .

s uch c o n duct wh e n h e h e a rs o f it ; but i n th e se o ut o i the - -

way pl a c e s Le mma s so ldi e ry tru sti n g to th e ir di st a n c e from

’
, ,
C H A P XV . . A DD AR 0 . 1 15

h i m, rly a s the y pl e a se Wh e n h o we v e r co mplain ts

ac t n e a .
, ,
’
h a v e re a ch e d Oub i s e a rs th e o ffe n d e rs h av e b e e n se ve re ly
,

pun i she d .

D uri n g t h e da y we p a sse d th e vill age s o f A ddy Ab a i o an d

H a ml o an d ra the r l a te i n th e e v e n in g a rriv e d a t Mai
,

So urro u N e a r e a ch o f th e se vill age s fl o w s a stre am

. Tha t .

o f H a ml o i s v e ry b e a uti ful n o t o n ly fro m t h e a bu n d an c e o f

,

wa t e r it co n ta in s but a l s o fro m th e picture squ e wa y i n

,

which it wi n ds amo n g th e tre e s an d ro ck s which sh a d o w i t s

b ed. A t Ma i So urro u we h a d a wa rm di sput e with th e
vi ll a ge rs b e ca u se it b e in g d ark we h ad mi stake n o ur way
,

an d go t in a mo n g th e ir c o m fie l ds On re a chin g th e h o u se s
-
.
,

h o w e ve r which we re a t so me di stan ce fro m th e sce n e o f o ur

,

qu a rre l we fo u n d t o o ur a st o n i sh me n t o n e o f th e v e ry me n
,

wh o h a d b e en fo re mo st i n t h e matte r waiti n g o ur a rriva l a t

th e e n tra n c e o f t h e vil l a ge t o c o n duct us t o h i s o wn h o u s e ,

b e h a vin g t ak e n a sho rt cut a n d a rriv e d b e fo re us He .

re c e iv e d us with th e utmo st kin d n e ss a n d tre at e d us thro ugh ,

o ut with gr e a t h o spita lity .

N e xt day o n o ur way t o A ddaro we we re me t by a la rge

, ,

p a rty app are n tly th e train o f so me we a lthy ma n c o mi n g in

, ,

t h e o pp o s ite dire cti o n O n i n quiri n g wh o h e might b e I

.
,

wa s i n fo rm e d th at h e wa s a Mu ssul ma n o f t h e n a me o f
H ajji Aman a ma n o f gre a t n o t e fo r h i s we a lth an d re sp e ct
,

a bili ty a n d re p ut e d o f a mo st ami abl e di sp o siti o n

, Thi s .

cha ract e r a pp e a re d t o me so fav o ura bl e a n d ra re tha t I

th o ught I c o uld n o t do b e tt e r than cultivate h i s a cqua i n t
an ce . So I ro d e up t o hi m a n d aft e r t h e u su a l i n t e rch a n ge
, ,

o f civiliti e s i n quire d wh e re h e wa s go i n g
,
H e re pli e d To .
,

t h e c am p o n bu si n e ss o f i mp o rtan c e ; a t th e sa me ti me
,

puttin g me a simila r qu e sti o n H avin g an swe re d h i m I .

,

as ke d h i s a dvic e a b o ut t h e b e st me an s I c o uld ta k e fo r pro

c urin g a l o dgi n g o n my a rriva l ; t o which h e re pli e d by

se n di n g a s e rv a n t b a ck with me with i n structi o n s t o pre ,

pa re o n e o f h i s h o u se s fo r me by turn i n g o ut th e wo me n ,

a n d d o n k e y s wh o th e n o ccupi e d it A n h o ur o r tw o a ft e r .

l ea vi n g h im w e c ame in sight o f th e v ill a ge which i s ,

di vid e d in to th ree p o rti o n s e a ch o n e a sho rt di sta n c e fro m

,

1 2
1 16 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P XV
. .

th e o th e r place was fo rme rly ce l e b ra te d fo r i ts siz e

. Th e
an d th e i mp o rta n c e o f i t s ma rke t ; but i s n o w re d uc ed to

p o v e rty a n d al mo st d e se rt e d I n th e n e ighbo urh o o d are a

,
.

fe w pyra mid a l hill s which pre se n t a sin gula r a ppe aran ce

, ,

ri sin g a s the y do abruptly o ut of th e pl a i n .

B e fo re a rrivin g a t th e village we h a d to cro ss a large

ma rs h with a bro o k fl o wi n g thro ugh it
,
Th e re I saw for .

t h e firs t ti me th e se cre ta ry bird H e is c a l l e d -

F arras .

’
Se ytan o r t h e D e vil s H o rse fro m t h e as to n i shi n g s wi ftn e ss
”
, ,

with which h e run s : but i n thi s pa rt o f Tigré h e g o e s as

c o mmo n ly by th e n ame o f Se la ssa I z n o r Thi rty Ears , ,

fro m t h e cre st o f fe a th e rs with which hi s h e a d is o ma

me n t e d B y n a turali st s t hi s bird i s cl as se d am o n g the
.

vulture s o n a cc o un t o f h is bill an d cl aws which i n d eed , , ,

c o n sid e rably re se mbl e th o se o f that family H e i s un .

d o ubte dly o f th e R apt o re s but a s far as I ha v e b e e n able

t o o b se rv e th e e xtre me di ffe re n ce o f h i s ha bit s fro m theirs
,

wo uld sca rc e ly all o w h im t o b e c o n sid e re d as b e l o n gin g to

th e family Vulture Th e se cre ta ri e s liv e al mo s t e n t ir e ly on
.

re ptil e s which th e y kill fo r the mse lv e s whil e th e vultures

,

fo r t h e mo st p art fe e d o n ca rri o n .

O n a rrivi n g a t th e t o wn all th e in h abita n ts c o ll e cte d to

h ave a l o o k a t me an d e ve n aft e r I wa s fa irly i n t h e ho use
,

man y ca me p e e pin g in a t th e d o o r tho ugh th e y d a re d not ,

e n t e r fro m a we o f t h e gre a t me n wh o we re sitti n g w ith me

,
.

Th e childr e n e sp e ci a lly ca me ru n n i n g in a n d a ft e r ta king , ,

o n e hurri e d but fix e d star e b o lt e d o ut a ga i n h a l f fright e n ed

, , ,

ha l f l a ughi n g M an y o f th e p e o pl e h a d n e v e r s e e n a white
.

man b e fo re a s with t h e e xc e p ti o n o f two F re n ch ge n tl e men

, , ,

Me ssrs D ill o n a n d P e tit wh o pa sse d thro ugh s o me years

.
,

a go o n th e ir wa y t o th e M a re b n o Euro p e a n h a d e ver ,

vi site d thi s pla ce Th e se two ge n tl e me n b o th me dical

.
,

me n ca m e h e re fo r th e sak e o f n a tural hi s to ry a n d fo o li shly

, , ,

n o t a tt e n di n g t o t h e a d v ic e o f t h e n a tiv e s d e s c e n d e d t o the ,

M are b a t th e u n h e a lthy se a so n o f th e ye a r ; tha t i s im ,

me di at e ly a fte r t h e ra i n s Th e y r e ma i n e d o n ly e ight or
.

n i n e d a y s du ri n g which ti me n e a rly t h e wh o l e o f t h e p arty

,
.

was a tta cke d by th e fe v e r Mr D illo n di e d b e fo re h e had

. .
 1 18 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XVI .

C H A PTE R XVI .

—
A i to Merra tclz , CI: iof of A eldy Abo N otes of my stay a t A dei d ra -
B les si ng
o
f a s wa r m of b e es VM ars — R eput a ti o n ( y E ur opea n s
fo r co i n i n
g
—
Welda Georg zit H i s kn o wleage of fire a r ms I n a n cemen ts to
'
’ ’ — ma i n at
—
-
re

A aa dr o—S ta rt for R oli a ba it a —A ba rga i n A lon g s ta i rcas e

'’
.

D U R I N G my sta y a t A ddaro I was tre a te d with t h e utmo st

ki n d n e ss a n d civility by th e in ha bita n ts, mo re e sp e ci a lly by
th e ir chi e f, A ito Me rra tch H e i s chie f o f th e w h o l e pro
.

vi n c e o f A ddy Ab o H i s fa th e r wa s t h e sa me b e fo re h im,
.

an d av e ry gre a t man i n h is way havin g co n sid e ra bl e in ,

flue n c e i n th e c o un try n o t o n ly fro m h is p o siti o n but a l so

, ,

o n a cc o u n t o f h i s we a lth I n th e se c o un tri e s h o w e v e r rich

.
, ,

me n ra re ly thrive ; p a rtly b e ca u se wh e n th e y b e c o m e so they

tu rn ambiti o u s a n d p a rtly b e ca u se the ir we alth r e n d e rs th e m
,

o bj e ct s o f e n vy t o o th e rs Thu s Oubi o r th e D e v il as
.
, ,

Me rra tch e xpre sse d it wo rk e d th e ruin o f o ur wo rthy fri e n d

, .

H i s fa th e r A it o We ld a Se la s sy l e ft h i m we ll o ff but b e fo re
, ,

h e wa s fo urt e e n y e a rs o f age h e was thro wn i n t o pri s o n and

d e sp o il e d o f h i s pro p e rty o wi n g I b e li e ve t o th e i n trigu es
, , ,

o f s o me o f h i s o wn p e o pl e e sp e ci ally o n e ma n w h o m h is
, ,

fa th e r h ad ra i se d t o c o n sid e ra ti o n fro m t h e l o w e s t gra d e .

A ft e r ma n y y e a r s c o n fi n e me n t Me rra tc h ma n a g e d t o r e t urn
’
,

t o fav o ur an d h i s go v e rn me n t h as b e e n l a t e ly re s t o re d to
,

h im but n o t h is pro p e rty

, .

D uri n g th e r e ma i n d e r o f my st ay at A dd aro my n o tes

parto o k much o f th e styl e o f a game b o o k A s re gards -
.

o th e r ma tt e rs I fin d such r e ma rk s a s th e fo ll o wi n g

C o n tin ua lly b o the re d by vi sit o rs : re ally th e ir civility

wax e th di sagre e a bl e A p arty o f s o ldi e rs still h e r e a pp e ar
. ,

t o r e li e ve o n e a n o th e r i n w a tchi n g o v e r me ; fo r as fa s t as
o n e l o t go e s a n o th e r c o me s t o t ak e i t s pl ac e
,
Th e y are .
C H AP . xv1 . MY N O TE B O OK -
A T A D D AR O . 1 19

a l ways p o l it e ; b ut it se e ms to me tha t th e ir p o lite n ess c a n

sc arc e ly b e ca ll e d di si n t e re st e d a s it mo stly e n d s i n th e ir ,

in si n ua ti n g th a t a pre se n t o f so me so rt o r o th e r wo uld b e
a cc e pta bl e &c An d th e n
, . B l e ss e d with a swa rm o f
b e e s tha t ha v e l o dge d in th e ho u s e Th e y ha ve stu n g me .

se v e ra l ti me s but I can b e a r tha t e sp e c ially as the y ha v e

, ,

a l s o s tu n g so me o f m i m p o rt u t e vi s it r s w h o by thi s
y n a o ,

me an s a re k e pt away I n fact t h e o n ly me th o d I h ave t o

.
,

rid myse lf o f my fri e n d s i s t o stir up t h e b e e s to rid myse l f —

o f t h e b e e s I a m o blige d t o stir up t h e fire which i s k e pt ,

bu rn i n g all day fo r t h e co o ki n g but by th e ti me t h e be e s a re

go n e th e h e a t i s i n t o l e ra bl e F a n cy a ro a rin g fire an d l o t s
.

o f sm o k e a t n o o n i n o n e o f th e h o tt e st pl a c e s i n A by ssi n i a

Vi s it o rs e te rn a l vi sito rs ! H e re i s a sp e ci me n o f th e ir
u su a l co n ve rsa ti o n —
,

F irst a go o d sta re th e n a n u n me a n i n g ,
’ ’
s mil e th e n , H o w do yo u d o P An Go d b e th an k e d . .

’
Th e n in a n u n d e r t o n e C u ri o u s ! Th e n Ou I s th e re
,
-
, ,
.
‘

a n y ra i n i n yo ur c o u n t ry !
’
An No
’— O u I s th e r e a n y
‘

—
. .

—
.

’ ’ ’ ’
r ! A C r A N O A ‘
g a s s n N o O u o n n o u ‘
re

th e re ca ttl e ! A n N o —Ou The n wha t d o yo u e a t !

. . . . . . .

’ ' ’ ‘
. . .

’
An . A ir
‘
A t thi s an swe r th e y st a re a littl e a n d o n e o r
.
,

t w o l a ugh So me o f t h e wi se r u n d e rsta n di n g t h e j o k e ta k e
.
, ,

it as such but th e o th e rs go awa y p e rsua d e d tha t we h ave

pl e n ty o f d o ll ars but n o c o rn an d tha t lik e t h e so n s o f , ,

J a co b we are co me t o the ir l a n d o f pl e n ty fo r fo o d
, .

I f I t ak e a walk I a m a l ways fo ll o we d by o n e o r t wo o f
t h e mo st curi o u s wh o c o me with t h e pr e t e xt o f sh o wi n g m e
,

w h e re I sh al l fin d ga me but i n re a lity t o wa tch my pro c e e d

,

i n gs The y h a ve an id e a tha t I i n c o mmo n with all o f my

.
,

c o l o ur am p o sse sse d o f th e se cre t o f o bta i n i n g o r ma k i n g

,

d o ll ars a n ywhe re by magic Thi s id e a h a d d o ubtl e ss i ts o rig m .

i n th e fa ct o f a n A rme n i an re sid e n t in Ad o u a h a vi n g b e e n
s u s p e ct e d o f c o i n i n g d o ll a r s Ma n y c o un t e rfe it o n e s a re i n
.

circul a ti o n i n th e c o u n try an d re p o rt i n t h e city a tt ribut e s ,

t h e ir o rigin t o h im I fe a r t o o with so me t ruth fo r si n c e I

”
.

l e ft A by ssi n i a I h e a rd a t K ha rt o u m th a t h e h a d e sca p e d fr o m
C a iro a n d ta k e n re fuge i n th o se di stan t l a n d s t o a v o id t h e
pu n i s hme n t h e was like ly to i n cur h a vi n g b e e n d e t e ct e d in ,
 HAP
'

1 22 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C . x vr .

lo ud , i s, as may b e judge d , not th e mo st h a rmo n i o u s an d

ju st n o w h e i s ra i sin g it to a c o n sid e rabl e pitch b e i n g ex ,

cite d t o wra th by o n e o f h is c o mp an i o n s i n si n u a ti n g that h e

was n e ve r but i n o n e ba ttl e a n d tha t th e n h e ra n awa y b e fo re
,

a bl o w h a d b e e n struck .

It may b e ask e d wh y do I n o t turn o ut my vi sit o rs when

th e y b o the r me ! I an swe r o thi s pl in re a so n b e cau se
f r a ,
—
I sho uld b e v e xe d if a n y n a tive we re to re fu se t o in dulge my
curi o sity ; an d th e re fo re I co n sid e r th a t I ha v e n o right to
di so blige th e m B e sid e s th o ugh turn in g a m an o ut i s a
.
,

go o d way o f ge tti n g rid o f h i m it i s by n o me a n s p o lit e (and

,

p o lit e n e ss i s much l o o ke d t o h e re ) n o r i s it th e wa y t o make,

y o urse lf lik e d by th e p e o pl e It i s ho we v e r due t o t h e pea

.
, ,
~

s an try t o say th a t th e y are n o t v e ry tro ubl e s o me t h e A mha ra ,

so ldi e rs b e i n g th e re al cau se o f an n o ya n c e B ut I must .

l e ave o ff writin g a bo ut th e m se e i n g a t thi s m o m e n t the

,

n e c e ssity o f l o o ki n g aft e r th e m fo r the y are pla yi n g dan,

”
ro us trick s
g e .

Our fri e n d We lda Ge o rgi s h a d go t ho ld o f my d o ub le

b a rre ll e d pi sto l s a n d wi lli n g t o sh o w o ff wa s r e ta ili n g to his
, , ,

fri e n d s an e xpl an a ti o n which I h a d giv e n h im th e d a y b e fore

o f t h e ma n n e r o f c o cki n g a n d u n c o cki n g th e m It a pp e ars .

tha t an x i o u s t o di spla y h is k n o wl e dge by a pr a ctic a l illus

,

tra ti o n h e h ad co ck e d b o th b a rre l s but h a d ma d e t h e slight

, ,

e rro r o f pulli n g th e l e ft trigge r whil e h e wa s firm ly h o lding

t h e ri ght h amme r I wa s di sturb e d fro m my w riti n g by a

.

b an g a scre am fro m a wo ma n wh o wa s n ur sin g h e r child and

,

c o o ki n g th e di n n e r an d a Wa ,
fro m We ld a G e o rgis .

’
Aft e r a m o me n t s p a u se h e la id t h e pi s to l d o wn a t a little
di stan ce fro m h i m a n d l o o kin g v e ry se ri o u sly a t i t
, .

”
Oh yo u n aughty d e vil 1 Luckily th e b all did n o h a rm to
an y o n e o n ly p a ssi n g thro ugh a go urd full o f c a p s icu m
,

p a ste tha t wa s ha n gin g up o n t h e o th e r sid e o f th e ro o m and ,

a l a rmi n g th e i n h a bita n t s o f t h e n e xt hut by bre a ki n g a l arge

c o rn jar which st o o d i n th e ir d we llin g

- .

O n t h e e ven in g o f Octo be r th e e n d I re ce ive d a pre sent

o f a hu n dre d h e a d s o f I n di a n c o rn fro m Me rra t c h t h e chi ef , ,

a cc o mp a n i e d by a p o lit e i n vit a ti o n t o c o me t o h i s b ut and

C H AP . XVI . S TA R T F OR R OH A B A I TA . 1 23

ge t dru nk with h im Th e fo rme r I acce pte d : th e latte r

.
,

w ith m an y tha n ks fo r his ki n d a tt e n ti on s I d e cli n e d N e xt , .

d a y I cal l e d o n h im to a cqua in t h im with my i n t e n ti o n o f

l e a vi n g A dd aro H e e xpre sse d hi mse l f gri e ve d at my d o in g
.

so but h is re gre t aba te d o n my as surin g h im tha t I did n o t

i n t e n d t o l e a ve h i s pro vi n c e b ut o n ly t o pa ss so me ti me in
,

t h e fro n ti e r vill a ge s H e re pre se n t e d th e d an ge rs an d di fli

.

c ul t i e s I wa s t o e xp e ct fro m t h e B a r e a fe v e rs a n d e v en t h e i n , ,

ha bitan t s wh o m h e d e scrib e d a s v e ry go o d so rt o fp e o pl e but

,
“
, ,

like mo st fro n ti e r me n ra th e r ro ugh an d lawl e ss ,

”
I t o ld h im .

th a t I h a d he ard n e arly a si mila r cha ra cte r o f himse l f an d h is

p e o pl e b e fo re I l e ft Ad o u a ; an d tha t judgi n g by th e agre e abl e ,

w a y i n which I h ad b e e n un d e c e iv e d wi th re gard t o th e m an d
th e ir co un try I co uld ve n ture to run a si mil a r ri sk a ga i n
, .

S e v e ral p e rso n s wh o we re a l so pre se n t a t th e time o f my vi sit

un ite d with th e ir chi e f i n e n d e a vo uri n g t o d issu ad e me a lto
g e th e r fro m l ea vi n g th e m o ffe ri ng a m o n g o th e r i n duc e
, ,

m e n t s t o buil d me a h o u se an d marry me t o th e pre tti e st

, ,

gi rl in t h e pro vin ce .

N o tw ithstan di n g al l th e se an d o th e r t e mpta ti o n s I start e d ,

t h e n e xt mo rn in g fo r R o h ab a i ta a cc o mp a n i e d by a guid e ,

fr o m A ito Me rra tch t o sh o w me th e ro a d an d e n sure me a

k in d re c e pti o n a n d we lc o me o n my a rrival Th e di stan c e .

i s n o t grea t n o t mo re p e rha p s than t we n ty mil e s ; sti ll

, ,

e n cum b e re d as we we re with d o n k e ys which we h a d ta k e n ,

i n s te a d o f p o rte rs an d which co uld n o t ge t o n o w i n g t o

, ,

t h e t h o rn s a n d st o n e s tha t o b st m c t e d t h e way we did n o t ,

th a t e ve n in g ge t b e yo n d a village c a ll e d En da Ma ria m ”

fro m t h e church o f St M a ry which i s th e r e . On th e ro a d

, .

w e p asse d se v e ral sma ll vill age s an d th e r e ma i n s o f o th e rs , .

A mo n g the m th e prin cip a l o n e s are To kh ulimn y Addy ,

N e b ri t an d Mai C h e n a
,
Ea ch o f th e se i s o r wa s wa t e re d
.
, ,

by a run n i n g stre am ; th o ugh b e yo n d En d a M a ri a m th e

vill age s d e p e n d a lto ge th e r o n we lls sc o o p e d o ut by t h e ,

n a tiv e s i n t h e s an d l e ft a ft e r t h e ra i n s in t h e dri e d up w a t e r -

c o urs e s a n d which supply the m with go o d wa te r fo r th e

,

wh o l e o f th e dry s e aso n ; ye t a l mo st e v e ry we e k as t h e
1 24 LI F E 12V A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . XVI .

se a so n ad v an ce s t h ey are o f co urse o blige d to di g d e e p er

an d d e e pe r t o o btai n i t .

Ma i C he na w h e n i t e x ist e d was so c alle d fro m i t s bro o k

.
, ,
.

N o w t h e bro o k o n ly re ma in s Th e pe o pl e be c o m i n g p o o r
.
,

an d man y h a v i n g fle d fro m th e o ppre ss i o n o f t h e s o ldi e rs ,

t h e re mai n d e r we re un a bl e t o de fen d t he m se lve s a ga in st th e

a tt ac ks o f t h e B are a w h o fre q ue n tl y vi s it t h e n e ighb o urh oo d
,

i n la rge pa rtie s t h e plac e was c o ns e qu e n tly de s e rt e d .

A t En da Mari am I b o ught half a gal l o n o f e xce ll ent

h o n e y fro m th e go o d man o f t h e ho us e whe re I l o dged .

Th e price as k e d fo r it was a co mmo n flin t an d s t e e l I .

c o n clud e d t h e ba r a i n fo r t h e st e e l a l o n e as I wa n t e d th e
g ,

fli n t an d h e ca re d li t tl e fo r it H e was much pl e a s e d with

m
, .

t h e e xchan ge . Th e s te e l c o uld ce rta n o t b e w o rth mo re

than a h a l fpe n n y a t B irm in gha m if t h e y c o uld ma k e there

,

a n yt hi n g so c o mmo n I bo ught it a t J e dd a
. .

’
Our n e x t da y s j o urn e y was but sho rt Th e r o a d we .

p as se d o v e r was ro ugh b ut highly pict ures qu e a n d we

, ,
’
e n d e d o ur d a y s wo rk by clim bin g a v e ry ste e p h i l l the ,

a s c e n t t o w h ich was by m ean s o f a so rt o f s e m i n a tural -

s e mi art i fic ial s ta ircas e a m il e o r tw o l o n g

-
N e a r t h e to p
.

o f i t h o w e v e r w e fo un d a pre tt y littl e h a ml e t ca ll e d Add

, , y ,

H ari sh o w h e re w e w e re h o spita bly re c e iv e d a n d c o m fo rta bly

,

l o d ge d by t h e la y de an an d chie f o f th e dis t rict Apha

-
,

Me mb e r Wa ddy Hil -
.
1 26 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XVI I .

se nce o f th e d o n o r he rse l f ! So it is with N a ture : to be

fully appre ci a te d sh e mu st b e kn o wn i n a ll h er a t ri t but es .

O h , sh e i s fa i res t i n h e r fea tures wild ,

Wh e re n o th i n g po lish d da res po ll ute h e r path
’
.

R o h a b ai t a i s sma
ll di strict o r pro vin ce be l o n gi n g to
a

t h e C hurch but i n s o me me as ure d e p e n d e n t o n th e ch i ef

,

o f Addy Ab o -
It co n si sts prin cip a lly o f a clu s t e r o f h ill s
.
,

b o un de d o n th e e a st e rn sid e by th e vall e y o f t h e Mareb ,

o n th e we st by A ddy Ab o so uth by Mé -
,
d e v a i a n d n o rth by ,

t h e c o un try o f t h e h o stil e Sh an ga ll a
!
Th e v ill ag e s are .

built p ri n cip ally n e a r th e su mmits o f th e hill s fro m fe ar o f ,

t h e sudd e n a tta ck s o f th e ir e n e mi e s a n d o f t h e fa ta l m a l aria

,

which a t ce rta i n se a so n s o f th e ye a r pre va il s in t h e lo w

va ll e y s Th e o utlin e o f th e c o u n try is high ly picture s que ;
.

th o ugh th e so il i s fa r fr o m fe rtile Th e 3 10 pe s o f the .

mo u n tai n s a re u n u su ally ste e p an d c o v e re d w ith mixed

,

r o ck a n d bush o ut o f which o ccasi o n a lly a huge dima tree

,
-

may b e se e n r e a ri n g i ts h e a d Th e va ll e ys b e t w e e n th e m
.

a re n a rro w a n d fo r t h e mo st p a rt t e rmi n a t e d a t t h e b o tt o m
,

by wa te rco urse s o f o n ly a fe w fe e t bro ad d o wn which in ,

th e rai n y se a so n p o urs a t o rre n t tha t dri e s up a s s o o n as

,

t h e cl o udy w e a th e r di sa pp e a rs l e a vin g o n ly a fe w p o o ls
,

vi sibl e ; tho ugh th e in habitan t s o f th e hill s a l wa y s fin d a

supply o f wa t e r by diggi n g i n t o th e san d Thi s supply .

wo uld se e m t o b e o n e o f t h e pro v id e n c e s o f n a tur e fo r in ,

so h o t a cli ma t e it w o uld b e n e a rly i mp o ssibl e th a t an y

qu an tity o f wa t e r co uld b e fo u n d a t so gre a t a n e l e va ti o n if

e xp o se d t o t h e i n flu e n c e o f t h e a t mo sph e re Th e b o tt o m .

i s ro ck Ove r it t he an n u al to rre n t s have fo r ce n turie s

.

d e p o site d a c o a ti n g o f sa n d n o w man y fe e t d e e p which

, ,

imbib e s a n d re tai n s a c o n sid e rabl e p o rti o n o f th e wa t e r that

’

y e arly flo ws o v e r it Th e ro ck b e l o w pre ve n t s i t s so aki ng

.

Th is t ri b e i s e rro n e o usl y c all e d b y th e Ab yss in i an s Sh a n gal la or

B a re a. Th e firs t i s th e n a m e gi v e n b y th e m t o all th e n egro s lav es on
th e ir fro n t i e rs , w h e th e r fro m th e n e igh b o urh o o d o f F az o gly o r th e n o rth .

B a re a me re ly me a n s sl a v e Th e pro pe r n a me o f th e co un t ry h ere
.

al lud e d t o is B as e n a th e pe o pl e a re ca ll e d B az a .
C HAP . XV I I . CH A R A C TE R OF TH E PR O VI N CE . 1 27

thro ugh t h e san d d e la ys i ts e vap o ra ti o n an d by subj e cti n g ,

it t o a pr o c e ss o f filtra ti o n b e fo re it can e n t e r th e ho l e ,

s cr a p e d t o re c e iv e it ke e p s it cl e a r a n d fre sh
,
A fe w a cre s .

o f m ill e t a re so me time s cultiv a t e d o n t h e mo u n t a i n to p s -

n e a r t h e vill age s but i n qu a n tity ve ry in sufli c i e n t fo r th e

,
”
wan t s o f th e p o pul a ti o n Th e lo w pla i n s ca ll e d
. Go b o
or Ma z z aga are th e re fo re e mpl o ye d fo r thi s purp o se .

Th e fo rme r wo rd i s t h e o n e m o st u se d h e re in th e san dy
di stricts ; t h e la tt e r b e i n g mo re co mmo n ly appli e d t o th e
d ark so il e d pl a i n s o f Wa lka it a n d Walda b b a Ve ry littl e
-
.

t e ff i s gro wn i n thi s n e ighb o urho o d but chi e fly mill e t

”
,

( m a sh él )
a an d d a g o ush a T h e p e o pl e o f R o h a b a i ta a re
.
”
,

lik e m o st fro n ti e r me n ra th e r ro ugh i n th e ir id e a s an d

,

ma n n e rs but ve ry h o spitabl e an d give n t o a tta ch th e m

, ,

s e l v e s t o th e ir fri e n d s I h ad th e go o d fo rtun e duri n g my

.

l o n g r e sid e n c e to b e co me c o n sid e re d a s o n e o f th e c o u n try ,

a n d w as o ffe re d th e go v e rn me n t o f R o h ab a i t a a n d a n o th e r

n e i ghb o uri n g di strict by D eja t ch Le mma Thi s pri n c e .

c o uld n o t by a n y me a n s o btai n in flu e n ce o ve r t h e p e o pl e
o f th e s e p a rt s Th e i n h a bita n t s wh e n pre sse d fo r tax a ti o n ,
.
,

fle d a cro ss t h e M a re b with th e ir mo v e a bl e s an d t o o k re fuge ,

i n D e mb e las o r Q uo h ain To do an ythi n g in th e fo rme r

.

o f th e s e pro v i n c e s w o uld r e quire a c o n sid e ra bl e a rmy t o

b e se n t thith e r a s a fe w so ldi e rs v e n turi n g a l o n e wo uld

,

a ss ur e dly b e murd e r e d So gre a tly in d e e d we r e th e Amh ara

.

d e t e st e d tha t n o o n e e ve n o f o ur o wn p e o pl e dare d v e n ture

,
”
th e re in t h e l o n g calli s tro u se rs wo rn by th e s o ldi e rs
“
,

but fo r prud e n c e sa ke l e ft the se b e hi n d a n d d o n n e d t h e ,

c o u mta o r sh o rt bre e ch e s o r t h e an te l o p e kilt o f a

”
,

fro n ti e r ma n a s a n e c e ssa ry pre ca uti o n i n vi siti n g th o se

,

o ut o f t h e wa y pro vi n c e s
- - -
.

I l o o k b a ck up o n R o h a b ai ta a s a so rt o f H appy Vall e y ,

wi th al l th e n e c e ssa ry e n j o ym e n t s an d n o n e o f t h e dra wb a ck s
o f t h e o n e d e s crib e d by J o h n so n B ut I mu st n o t d e c e iv e .

my fri e n d s Th e cli ma t e wa s wr e tch e dly b a d a t c e rta m

.

se a s o n s o f t h e y e a r t h e a cc o mmo d a ti o n ra th e r i n fe ri o r t o
,

tha t p o ss e sse d by o ur gip si e s an d fo r wh o l e mo n th s I ha ve ,

1 28 LI F E I . AB YS S I N I A . CRAP . XVI I .

tas t e d n o thin g b e yo n d th e pro duc e o f t h e ch ase ( i e game . .

an d h o n e y ) an d a l i t t l e o f t h e c o a rse dago usha b rea d an d

ca ps ic u ms I can re me mbe r ru nn i n g i n t h e he a t o f th e day

.

n e a r two mil es up a h il l w i t h th e gre e dy hast e o f a sc h o o lbo y

,

wh o he ars o f t h e arri va l o f a b o x o f go o d t hi n gs fi o m his

ma mma fe a s t i n g my i ma gina ti o n o n gal o re o f ra w o n i o ns
, ,

whi c h a se rv an t ha d pro cure d fro m a n e igh b o u ri n g v illage .

Eve n milk was v e ry sca rc e o n ly o n e milc h c o w b e i n g fo un d ,

i n th e n e igh b o urh oo d an d sh e le ft us I n th e se po in ts was

, .

Ro h a b a i ta in fe ri o r t o t h e H a ppy Va ll e y O n th e o ther .

han d we we re be tt e r o ff than t h e i n ma te s o f t h e H appy

,

Va ll e y b eca u se we h ad li b e rty an d pl e n ty o f e x cite me nt ;

,

hun t i n g e xpe ditio n s & c A n o c ca s io n a l s quab b le i n the

,
.
,

co urse o f whic h a fe w thro a ts we re c ut ca me in w e ll as a ,

bre a k to t h e o the rwi se t o o mo n o to n o u s e n j o ym e n t o f a

t ra n quil li fe .

Duri n g my who l e sta y a t R o h ab ai t a I was lo o k e d upon

by th e pe o ple as a ch i e f (b e it kn o wn we we re i n a s tate of
se mi re b e l li o n )
-
a n d c o n s ult e d o n a ll t h e mo s t i m po rtant
,

o cca s io n s I fo r my pa rt fe lt myse lf as o n e o f th e m and

.
, , ,

e n t e re d wi t h th e gr e a t es t sympa thy a n d z ea l i n t o a ll their

pro c e e di n gs A t a fe as t n o o n e e n j o ye d th e d a n ce an d song
.

mo re tha n I did I ha d th e mo s t gu n s di scha rge d at a

.

fu n e ral .N o hu n ti n g pa rty o r fo ra yi n g e xp e diti o n but I was

i n it . I to o k my turn in s co uti n gs an d o utlyin gs a n d I am
afra id I mu st a d d th a t e ve n o n o n e o r t w o o ccas i ons
,

t h o ugh o f c o urse I h a d n o han d i n t h e ac t I w as privy to ,

t h e ge tt i n g rid o f a fe w di sa gre e a bl e so ldi e r s w h o ca me to

an n o y o ur pe a c e ful villag e an d t o ro b th e p o o r
pe asa ntry,

o f wh a t littl e t h e ir pre d e c e sso rs h a d l e ft th e m Th e truth .

i s I did n o t n o r d o e v e n n o w c o n sid e r the se a s o th e r than

, , ,

ju stifiabl e h o micid e s B e it a lways re me mb e re d t h e Amhara

.
,

are n o t th e l awful rul e rs o f t h e c o u n try ; but h a v i n g con

u e re d it p a rtly by fo rc e but p ri n cip a lly by tre a ch e ry they

q , ,
,

ho ld it u n d e r an iro n ro d an d pillage th e in ha bit an ts t o their

,

utmo st Th e wh o le o f thi s n e ighb o urho o d is as I be fore

.
,

ha ve sa id re duce d to e xtre me p o ve rty a n d t h e e n tire po p!)

,
1 30 LI F E I N A B YS S I N I A . Cw . XVI I .

’
co mman d o f Deja tc h Wel da Vesso ns ( Oub i s unc l e ) an d Frt
Ant a ri Go sh o . Th e l a t te r gen e ral was ca rri e d o ff th e fie ld
se v e re ly wo u n d ed i n th e l e g b y a b al l fro m o n e o f Wad d y

matchl o ck men A se co n d stro nge r fo rce ho we ve r

-
.
, ,

o ve rpo we re d th e m Se raph i el was put i n to priso n , wnw I

m
.

be li e ve h e rema in s t o thi s d ay, an d Wa ddy B il r to

Roh aba ita . On th e appro ac h o f tro o ps to le vy con tri 1
 C HA P . XV I I . S CA R CI T Y OF PR O VI S I ON S . 13 1

th e p e o pl e havi n g co n ce a l e d the ir pro p e rty fle d th e co un try

, , .

Thi s h o we v e r h e re fu se d t o do an d re mai n i n g was tak e n

, , , , , ,

a n d re quir e d t o pay t h e wh o l e a mo u n t d e ma n d e d o f h i s

p ro vi n c e U n able to do so at o n ce h e wa s ca st in t o p ri so n
.
, ,

wh e re h e re mai n e d s e ve ral y e ars but a t l e n gt h th e re quire d ,

sum h a vi n g b e e n c o ll e ct e d by h i s fri e n d s a n d r e pr e se n t ati o n s ,

in h i s fa v o ur havi n g b e e n ma d e t o t h e Go v e rn me n t h e wa s ,

se t a t lib e rt y an d r e st o re d t o p o we r ; but a s h e h a s n e v e r

re co ve re d h i s pro pe rty h e h as to thi s day live d in p o v e rty

,

t h e pre ss ure o f taxa t i o n an d h i s n a tura l t a s te fo r c o n vivi a li ty

o ft e n pre v e n t in g h i s ma ki n g bo th e n d s me e t wh e n pa y d a y -

co me s o n I re ce ive d fro m h im t h e gre a t e st ki n d n e ss

.

s uppli e s o f a ll th a t t h e c o u n t ry pro duc e d w e re re gul a rly fur

n i sh ed me fo r a c o n sid e rabl e ti me ; an d it w a s n o t till I h a d

b e e n lo ng a cqua in te d with h i s family tha t I di sco v e re d tha t

i n o rd e r t o re c e ive me wi th due ho spit ality h e h ad hi mse lf
fre que n tly su ffe re d fro m wan t I wa s gla d o n a sub se qu e n t
.

o cca s i o n to b e a bl e t o make up t o h i m i n so me me asure fo r

th i s ge n e ro u s trea tme n t Th e Smyrn a rug which h a d se rv e d

.
,

m e fo r a b e d sin c e I l e ft C a iro wa s j o yfully a cc e pt e d fro m ,

h i m b y hi s supe ri o r chi e f a s a p e a c e o ffe ri n g fo r so me d e fa l

, ,
-

ca ti o n o f tri but e We we re fo r a time re duc e d n e arly t o

.

s ta rva ti o n My go o d h o s t a n d I sha re d o ur pro vi si o n s

.

t o t h e la st gra in but th e y we re sca n ty A s a fin al re so urc e .

I se n t t o O b sab ius my o ld frie n d th e C hi e f o f Mai quo llaw

, ,

an d t e ll i n g him o f o ur di str e s s b e gge d h i m t o pro cu re us a

, ,

s u pp ly o f c o rn H e s e n t us i mme di at e ly wha t h e h a d i n th e
.

h o u se as a fre e gift an d re tai n in g a se rvan t an d t h e mo n e y

, , ,

till h e c o ul d pro cure mo re o n t h e n e xt ma rke t day sh o rtly -

,

a ft e r c ame d o wn t o R o h a b a it a hi mse l f with two a sse s l a d e n , .

H a vi n g n e ve r b e fo re ve n ture d i n t o t h e co un try o f B a re a ,
”
fe ve rs an d o th e r da n ge rs as h e ca ll e d o ur
, ,
H a ppy Vall e y ,

h e wa s ra th e r n e rvo u s o n h i s a rriva l H e h ad s e e n a n d .

kn o wn Wa ddy Hil in th e ti me o f h i s gre a tn e ss a n d c o n ,

gra t ul at e d me o n my b e i n g in such go o d h an d s h e sa id h e
wa s gl a d t o re n e w th e a cqu a i n t an c e o f so di sti n gui sh e d a
chie f e sp e ci ally a s h e e ste e me d h i m still mo re n o w fo r th e
, ,

kin d n e ss h e h a d sh o wn to h i s so n an d fa th e r (me an i n g me )
K 2
132 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XV I I .

h is so n , he id i n age but h i s fath e r in t h e resp ec t an d

sa , ,

a ffe cti o n h e b o re me A ft e r ma n y c o mpli m e n ts o n bo th

.

sid e s h e ga v e me a l a rge pre s e n t o f hive h o n e y w hich was ,

ve ry a cce pta bl e O n h i s re turn I a cco mpa n i e d h i m so me

.

di sta n c e o n th e ro a d with a small pa rt y o f o ur p e o pl e as h e ,

h ad b e e n a l a rme d wh e n c o mi n g by sign s o f B a re a H e said .

tha t h e a n d a ll with h im we re c o n fid e n t that t h e bla cks we re

o utlyi n g o n th e ro a d an d tha t h e o n ly e s ca p e d m o l e s ta ti o n
,

fro m b e i n g with a s tro n g p a rt y as h e h a d h a d t h e luck to

,

j o i n co mp a n y with a n umb e r o f p e o pl e re turn in g fro m th e

ma rk e t s o f Se me ma an d A ddaro Sc a rc e ly h ad w e passe d
.

t h e bro o k o f Ma i C h e n a wh e n o n e o f o ur me n a hun te r
-
, ,

d e cl are d th a t h e sa w th e sla v e s B e i n g at th at ti me i n ox
.

p e r i e n c e d i n s uch m a tt e rs I c o uld s e ,e n o thi n g s us pici o u s .

H e t h e n p o i n t e d o ut t o me a d e a d tre e s ta n d i n g o n an
e mi n e n c e a t a di st an c e o f s e v e ra l hu n dre d ya rd s a n d cha rred ,

bl a ck by l ast ye a r s fire To e xplai n thi s I sh o uld re mark

’
.
,

tha t th e ra in s cau se t o spri n g up a thick ju n gl e o f grass ,

ca n e s a n d bu sh e s which co v e r th e wh o l e surfa ce o f c o un try

, , ,

gro wi n g t o a h e ight o f se ve ral fe e t Wh e n thi s b e co mes .

r —
dry it is se t e t o in so me pl a ce s by th e fa rme rs as the
fi , ,

re a di e s t m e a n s o f cl e a ri n g t h e gr o u n d in o th e rs by hun t ers ,

t o e n abl e th e m t o ge t a t th e ir ga m e w ith gre a t e r fa ci lity ;

a n d o ft e n a ccid e n ta lly by o n e o f th e se la tte r dro pping a
,

light e d ma tch Th e se c o n flagrati o n s ge n e rally cl e a r a mile

.

o r tw o a cc o rdi n g t o t h e p o siti o n an d qu a lity o f t h e gro un d ;

,

but o cc a si o n a lly wh e n th e wi n d i s fa ir a n d t h e l a n d level

,
0

a n d e qu a lly o v e rgro w n th e y c o n ti n u e burn i n g fo r s e veral

,

days a n d sw e e p e n o rmo u s tra cts o f co u n try H o w e v e r all

, .
,

tha t I sa w wa s a ch a rre d stu mp o f a tre e an d a fe w bla ck e n ed ,

l o gs o r s t o n e s lyi n g a t i t s fe e t Th e hu n te r d e cla re d that

.

n e ith e r th e tre e n o r t h e st o n e s w e r e th e re t h e l a s t ti me he

p a sse d a n d th a t th e y w e re s imply n a ke d B are a w h o had

, ,

pl a c e d th e mse lve s i n tha t p o siti o n t o o b se rve us ha vi n g no ,

d o ubt se e n us fo r so m e ti me a n d pre pa r e d th e mse lve s I

, .

c o uld sca rce ly b e li e v e it p o ssibl e tha t th e y sh o uld re main so

m o ti o n l e ss a n d d e t e rmi n e d t o e xpl o re a littl e : th e re st of
,

t h e p a rty a dvi se d me t o c o n ti n u e qui e tly i n th e ro a d as it ,

 YS S I N I A
‘

1 34 LI F E IN AB . C H A P x v 11
. .

I sh o uld be rry t o re la t e so me o f th e shi fts we w e re put

so

to , as mo st p e o pl e wo uld d e pre ca te my ta st e o n m a n y o cca

i
s o n s, whil e o th e rs might thi n k lightly e v e n o f my h o n e sty
at time s .

As ge n e ral rul e ab stin e n ce d o e s n o h a rm i n th e se

a ,

cli mat e s but o n th e co n trary it i s always a go o d thin g

, , , ,

an d o ft e n n e c e ssary I n e ve r fe lt lighte r i n my l ife o r

.
,

mo re fre e fro m th e man y ill s th a t v e x human ity th a n d urin g ,

thi s my l o n g p e ri o d o f se mi starva ti o n Wo u n d s o f all -

.

ki n d s h e a le d o n me like magic an d I n e ve r k n e w w hat ,

it wa s t o fe e l l azy o r fa tigue d On o n e o r two o ccas i o n s

.

I re me mb e r b e i n g much a st o n i sh e d at th e littl e I suffe re d

fro m o th e rwi se ugly wo u n ds a b o ut t h e fe e t O n ce in .
,

run n i n g d o wn th e sto n y an d al mo st pre cipito u s p a th wh ich

le a d s t o t h e M a re b I struck my b a re fo o t aga in st a n e dge
,

o f r o ck which wa s a s sha rp a s a ra z o r a n d a bit o f fl e sh

, , ,

with th e wh o l e o f th e n a il o f my l e ft fo o t littl e t o e was cut ,

o ff l e avi n g o n ly t h e ro o t s o f t h e n a il
, Thi s l att e r I s uppo se .

t o h a v e b e e n t h e ca s e a s it h as gr o wn a ll right a ga i n
,
I .

c o uld n o t st o p l o n ge r than t o p o li sh o ff t h e bit w hich was

ha n gi n g by a ski n fo r we we re in ch a se o f a p a rty o f B a re a
, ,
’
wh o h a d cut th e thro a t s o f thr e e o f Wa ddy Hil s n e ph e ws
t h e n ight b e fo re — but wa s o blige d t o go o n run n i n g fo r
a b o ut t w e n ty mil e s th a t a ft e rn o o n th e gr e a te r p a rt o f t h e
,

w ay up t o o ur a n kl e s in burn i n g san d Wh e th e r thi s cured .

it I kn o w n o t but I s ca rc e ly su ffe re d at a ll fro m it n ext

,

d ay an d fo rgo t it th e da y a ft e r
,
A n o th e r d ay I w a s run
.

n i n g a fte r a n a n t e l o p e which I h a d wo u n d e d a n d i n my ,

e age rn e ss ju mp e d o v e r a bu sh a n d o n t o t h e tru n k o f a ,

fa ll e n t re e N o w it so h a pp e n e d th a t a b o ugh h a d o n ce
.

st o o d e x a ctly wh e re my fo o t n o w li ht e d but h a vi n g b e en
g , ,

bro k e n o ff h ad l e ft a j agge d stump o n e splin t e r o f whi ch

, , ,

o f a b o ut t h e thick n e ss o f a t e n p e n n y n a il e n t e ri n g t h e ball ,

o f my fo o t p a sse d so far thro ugh th a t t h e p o i n t a pp e ared

,

like a bl ack sp o t i mme di at e ly u n d e r t h e skin an i n ch ab ove ,

t h e ju n cti o n o f t h e third a n d fo urth t o e s t o wa rd s th e ,

i n st e p an d th e n bro k e sh o rt o ff I go t my game butch e red

, .
,

it an d carri e d it h o me (so me two mil e s) with th e s plin ter

, ,
C HA P . XV I I . WO UN D S S PE E D I L Y C URE D . 13 5

i n my fo o t , which I th e n dre w o ut with a n a il wre n ch -

. A
qu a n tity o f blo o d fl o we d fro m th e wo u n d, but , with th e
e xc e pti o n o f a littl e sti ffn e ss fo r a day o r t wo which h o w ,

e v e r n o w i se pre v e n t e d my wa lki n g I suffe re d n o p a i n a t

,

a ll. N o w h a d thi s o ccurre d t o me in Euro p e a n d u n d e r

, ,

a go o d Eur o p e an di e t I sh o uld ha v e b e e n a t l e a s t a fo rt
,

n ight l a id up with a b a d fo o t .

A s fo r th o rn s in th e fe e t it may b e e a sily i ma gi n e d th a t
, ,

i n a co u n try we r e th e re i s sca rc e ly a tre e u n fu rn i sh e d with

the se app e n d age s a n d so me o f th e m o f th e l e n gth o f thre e
,

o r fo ur i n ch e s t h e wh o l e gro u n d mu st b e stre we d with

,

th e m an d c o n se qu e n tly tha t th e fe e t o f a p e rso n go in g

, , ,

b a re fo o t mu st fre qu e n tly ac t t o all i n te n t s an d purp o se s

, ,

t h e p art p f pi n cu shi o n s ; ye t I can truly sa y th a t a ft e r so me ,

ti me such i s t h e fo rce o f habit an d th e thickn e ss o f ski n

,

th a t o n e ge ts by use I th o ught n o mo re o f pickin g h al f a

,
-

d o z e n th o rn s o ut o f my fe e t th an a n En gli sh sp o rt sma n
w o uld o f kicki n g a way th e cl o d o f cl a y h e may h av e a ccu
mula t e d o n h i s sh o o ti n g b o o ts i n cro ssin g a so ft pl o ugh e d
-

fi e ld .
1 36 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XVI I I .

C H A PTE R XVI II .

—
Course of the Ill a reb Th e Gobo pla i n F oun t of S t 7 0h n A by ssi n ia n —
—
hy d ropa thy D ev out pa tien t s—P ro tecti on qf th e g ua r d ia n sa i n t
.

7 1:
E v i l Ey e —
Th e Ma rch a t diferen t seasons F i sh a bun da n t The gar
—
me n t E migra n t cr ocod i les—A byss i n ia n mode of fish i ng A d ubio us —
fi sh i n a rt
gp y Grea t v a r i e y of g
t a me Orn i t h ology .

As I b e fo re sa id th e riv e r M a re b run s at t h e fe e t o f the

,

mo u n ta i n s o n which t h e vill age s o f R o h ab a i ta s ta n d I .

might p e rha p s ha v e b e e n mo re ea sily un d e rs t o o d h ad

I s tat e d tha t a ft e r pa ssi n g Go un d e t (whe re we cro sse d it
o n o ur wa y t o Ad o u a ) an d A d e rbati i t s v a ll e y i s w a ll e d in
,

o n th e o n e sid e by t h e hill s o f Me d e va i an d R o h ab a i ta ,

a n d o n th e o th e r by th o se o f Q uo h ai n Se ra wi & c ,
B e fo re , .

a rrivi n g h o we v e r a t t h e p o i n t we a re d e scribi n g it l e ave s

, , ,

fo r a ti me i ts n o rth we st e rly c o urse an d mak e s a s h o rt b ut

-

a brupt turn t o th e w e stwa rd Opp o sit e t o R o h a b a i ta it

.

re su me s i ts fo rm e r dire cti o n .

F ro m o ur vill a ge a v e ry st e e p a n d rugge d p a th scarcely ,

ma rk e d a mo n g th e st o n e s an d bri a rs thro ugh which it p asses ,

’
bri n gs yo u a ft e r n e a r a n h o ur s h o ppi n g an d scra mbling
, ,
”
to th e Go bo . Thi s i s a l a rge pla in o f s e ve ra l th o u sand
a cr e s surro u n d e d o n thre e sid e s by hill s an d o n t h e fo u
,
rt h
,

d e sce n di n g t o wa rd s th e riv e r Tho ugh fro m i ts p o sition

.

ra th e r wa n ti n g i n air an d rath e r t o o h o t it i s a b e autiful

, ,

sp o t. Exce pt at se e d ti me an d harve st n o t a hu ma n be ing

-

co me s t o vi sit it un l e ss it b e a fe w hu n t e rs o cca s i o n ally

,

p a ssi n g o n th e i r way to t h e M a r e b So me two o r three .

.

hu n dre d a cre s o f ba re ly cl e are d gro un d hav e b e e n s e le cted

fo r cultiva ti o n ; t h e re ma i n d e r i s a wild ju n gl e pri n cip ally ,

o f v a ri o u s ki n d s o f mi mo sa s Th e buffa l o an d e l e phant
.

fre que n tly vi sit th e pl a c e a n t e l o p e s o f se v e ral va ri e ti e s may

1 38 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XVI I I .

fu e l , o ft e n fro m so me
di sta n ce as littl e is n ow t o b e fo u n d n ear
,

a t han d With re gard t o di e t the y liv e o n v e ry l i tt l e F o r per

.
, .

spira ti o n th e cli ma te i s as go o d a s a dry p a c k ; a n d fo r go od

,

wat e r b o th t o dri n k an d t o b a the in th e re i s pl e n t y

,
That , .

man y cure s a re e ffe ct e d i s ce rtai n n o t o n ly fro m re po rt do

I say so but al so fro m th e pro o fs which I ha v e s e e n with my
,

o wn e ye s B e fo re re tu rn in g h o me e v e ry p a ti e n t wh o has
.
,

b e en b e n e fite d han gs o n a n e ighbo uri n g tre e t h e blu e silk

,

c o rd which h e h a s wo rn ro un d h is n e ck as a s ign o f hi s be ing

a C hri sti an ; an d th e bu sh es all a b o ut th e w e ll a re c o v e red

with th e se t o k e n s o f gra titud e I have fre qu e n tly fo un d per .

so n s th e re : a n d o n c e I r e me mb e r h avi n g b e e n s truck at

s ee in g thre e v e ry mi se ra bl e l o o kin g wre tch e s fro m Se rawi -

s tr e tch e d u n d e r t h e tre e s Th e y t o ld me tha t th e y h a d been

.

the re n e a rly a fo rtn ight an d that the ir fri e n d s v i s ite d them

,

e v e ry n o w a n d th en an d bro ught th e m suppli e s , A s they .

we re to ta lly u n a rme d an d a pp are n tly i n a we a k s ta te of

,

h e alth I i n qui re d i f the y we re n o t afraid o f th e B a rea or

,

o f th e wild b e a st s To thi s th e y mo st d e vo utly r e pli e d that

.

t h e p a tro n sa i n t gua rd e d th e pl a c e a n d the m fro m all dan

ge rs tha t li o n s we re n o t o n ly he ard by the m in th e immediate
n e ighb o urh o o d but th a t th e y e ve n o ccasi o n a lly c a m e down
,

t o dri n k a t t h e we ll I n n o in s ta n ce h o we v e r th e y added
.
, , ,

i n th e me mo ry o f man wa s an y ill k n o wn t o h a v e h a ppened

,

t o o n e wh o put h i s tru st in h o ly St J o h n Th a t li o n s a bo und . .

i n th e n e ighb o urh o o d e v e ry o n e kn o ws an d I h a v e myself ,

tra cke d th e m t o th e spri n g ; so that thu s fa r th e i r st o ry is

tru e an d o n ly c o n firm
, s me i n my o pin i o n th a t li o n s l ike all ,

o th e r an i ma l s are l o t h wh e n u n pro vo k e d t o a tta c k a man

, , , .

Duri n g my sta y in Africa I sh o uld thi n k th a t I h ad lions

pro wlin g ro u n d me a t n ight o n ab o ve a hu n dre d d ifferent
o cc asi o n s in fact in so me pla ce s such as th e o n e o f which
, ,

we are n o w sp e a ki n g sca rc e a n ight wa s e ve r p a s s e d in the

,

b ackwo o d s with o ut my h e arin g the m cl o se at h an d ; b ut they

n e v e r a tt a ck e d m e n o r e xc e pti n g th e first fe w n i h ts even
, , g ,

cau se d me th e slighte st al a rm o r un e asin e ss .

I n ma n y pa rts o f t h e Eas t a s i n Ita ly th e y h a v e great , ,

’
dre ad o f th e e ffe cts o f th e e vil e ye b ut t h e E astems
C HA P . XV I I I . TH E E VI L E VE . 1 39

i ma gi n a ti o n d o e s n o t co n fin e th e e x e rci se o f thi s b a n e ful i n

flue n c e t o c e rt a i n p e rso n s o n ly : th e y b e li e v e tha t t h e l o o k
o r e xpr e ss i o n o f a d mira ti o n o f a l mo s t a n y o n e will u n l e ss it ,

b e c o upl e d with pra i se t o t h e Al mighty C r e a t o r i n j ure t h e ,

o bj e ct which h a s e licit e d it Thu s a mo th e r fa r fro m b e in g

.
, ,

gra tifi e d with th e re mark Wha t a b e a uti ful child b e i n g

“
,

ma d e re ga rdi n g h e r i n fa n t wo uld b e highly a n n o ye d un l e ss , ,

t h e sp e ak e r we re t o a d d prai se d b e Go d a n d childre n
“
,

a n d a n ima l s n ay e v e n b o a t s a n d h o u se s are a l l pro vid e d

, , ,

w ith so me strikin g o rn a me n t wh e re t o t h e e y e s o r ra th e r th e , ,

fe e li n gs o f th e pa sse r b y b e i n g first a ttra ct e d th e ir in flu e n c e

,
-
,

b e co me s w e a ke n e d a n d th e we are r i s l e ss subj e ct t o i n jury

, .

A child will we a r bright c o l o ure d ribb o n s o r l a rge silv e r o r

-

g o ld pl a te s hu n g o n h i s n e ck ; an d th e fa vo urite ch a rm fo r
h o u se s i s a l arge dri e d a l o e pl an t o r a stu ffe d cro c o dil e hu n g -

o v e r t h e d o o rwa y It might a pp e a r tha t th e flatte ri n g ch a

.

ra c t e r t h e p o o r p a ti e n t s h a d give n me o f th e pro t e cti o n th e y

re c e ive d fro m St J o hn h ad ra th e r we ake n e d i t s virtu e fo r

.
, ,

s o m e ti m e aft e r h a pp e n i n g t o p a ss by I wa s a ttra ct e d by a
, ,

fo ul sme ll t o a sp o t wh e re I fo un d t h e vulture s c o n gre gat e d

o v e r t h e b o dy o f a n u n fo rtu n a t e wre tch wh o m th e B a re a h a d

m urd e re d th e re .

Th e fo u n ta in i s situ at e d in a di n gl e an d o v e rsh a d o we d by ,

l a rge tr e e s A co n sid e ra ble stre a m o f wa t e r i s c o ll e ct e d by

.

a h o ll o we d trun k l a id i n it a s a pip e a n d fall s a fe w fe e t ,

in t o a d e e pi sh po o l be n e ath in which th e p e o pl e ba th e Th e , .

c o urs e o f t h e stre a m which fl o ws fro m A b o u n a Yo h a n n e s

i s th e wa y u su a lly ch o se n by p e rso n s go i n g t o th e M a re b
a n d th o ugh it i s n o t a v e ry e a sy r o a d ye t it i s far mo r e
p ra c ,

t i ca b l e th an th e thick ju n gl e w hich b o rd e rs it o n e ith e r sid e .

I n s o me pla c e s h o we v e r yo u a re o blige d t o wa d e up t o yo ur
, ,

middl e i n mud an d wa t e r whil e i n o th e rs yo u a re c aught ,

fa st by t h e bu sh e s a b o ve A fte r go in g so me di stan c e yo u
.

as c e n d fro m t h e stre a m a n d fin d y o urs e l f i n a cl e a r e r tra ct

,

o f c o u n try w hich by man y u n dul a ti o n s l e a d s yo u t o t h e

,

Ma re b I ha ve o fte n sh o t l a rge a n t e l o p e s an d wild b o a rs in

.

’
th e w a y b e t we e n St J o h n s W e ll a n d t h e M a re b
. a n d th e
'

trac e s o f b ufla lo e s an d e l e ph an t s are i n g e n e ra l t o b e se e n

1 40 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . XVI I I .

th e re i n pl e n ty tho ugh th e a n ima l s th e m se l v e s are more

,

o ft e n fo u n d a mo n g t h e ca n e s a n d j u n gl e o f t h e M areb

be lo w .

Lik e mo st o f th e riv e rs o f thi s co u n try th e M a re b in ,

cre a se s gre a tly durin g th e ra in y we a th e r an d in fa ct in un ,

d at e s i t s ba n ks fo r a co n sid e rable di st an ce o n e i th e r side .

A t th a t se a so n o f t h e ye a r h o we v e r it i s n e v e r vis it e d p a rtly
, , ,

o n a cc o u n t o f t h e fe v e rs which pre va il a n d p a rtly b e ca u se it ,

i s ge n e ra lly i mpa ssabl e D uri n g t h e dry se a s o n w hich i s the

.
,

ti me fo r h u n tin g whe n th e h e a t an d dryn e ss o f t h e a tm o sphere

,

ha ve di s sipa te d t h e ma la ri a o r ra the r re mo v e d i t s ca uses,

,

t h e i n h a bita n ts o f t h e n e ighb o uri n g pro vi n c e s c r o s s o v e r to

’
vi sit e ach o th e r a n d t o a tte n d e ach o th e r s ma rk e t s The .

riv e r th e n pr e se n t s a di ffe re n t a pp e a ra n c e N o l o n ge r a
‘

bro a d muddy t o rre n t swe e p s d o wn t h e va ll e y ; a b e lt o f sand ,

b o rd e re d by a thick i mp a ssa bl e ju n gl e o f ca n e s ma rk s the ,

li mit s o f i ts fo rme r co urse w hile i ts wate rs a re re duc e d to a

,

sma ll cl e ar rivul e t w hich i n so me pl a c e s trickl e s a l o n g in

, , , ,

o th e r s c o ll e ct s lik e a b a th in a h o ll o w wi t h a ro c k b o tto m;

o r wh e re t h e so ft sa n d suck s it up l o se s it s e lf a lt o g e th e r for a
, ,

sh o rt di st a n c e . I n t h e h o ll o ws a bu n d an c e o f fis h a re o ften
,

fo u n d which ma y b e c aught b y ticklin g th e m i n t h e cre vices

,

o f t h e ro ck s . O n e o f th e m ca ll e d in Tigre a m b a z a and
, ,
”

i n A ra bic ga rmo ut i s c o mmo n an d rath e r curi o u s

”
,
It is .

e n ti re ly bla ck a n d i t s fin s re se mbl e th o se o f a n e e l while

, ,

fr o m i t s j a w s h an g si x l o n g strin gs lik e a b e a rd This fish .

,

i n so me pl a c e s a tt a in s t o a gr e a t siz e
,
I ha v e s e e n it in the .

N il e a s l a rge a s 8 0 lb s o r m o re It w ill bury it s e lf i n th e mud

. .

duri n g t h e dry se a so n I n Kha rto um I wa s ra th e r s u rprised

.
,
’
a ft e r o n ly a fe w d a y s ra i n t o s e e th a t a h o ll o w pl a c e in my
,

ga rd e n which in th e ra i n y se aso n b e came a p o n d c o n tained

, ,

a gre a t n umb e r o f th e se
“
ga rm o u t
”
so m e o f n e a r h alf a ,

p o u n d we ight On i n quirin g o f t h e n a tive s th e y t o ld me

.
,

t h a t t h e fish h a d pro b a bly r e ma i n e d a liv e fo r s e v e ra l mo n ths

d uri n g th e wh o l e dry se a so n cak e d up in t h e mud which , , ,

a ft e r t h e w a t e r l e a ve s it b e c o m e s i n a fe w d a y s dry an d hard
,

lik e a brick U n l e ss the y h ad b e e n ra i n e d d o wn t h e re was

.
,

n o o th e r me a n s o f a cc o u n ti n g fo r th e ir a pp e a ra n c e The .
 1 42 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P XVI I I
. .

us t o ke e p cl o se an d wa tch the ir pro c e e din gs A s the y ad .

v a n ce d n e a r e r h o we v e r th e ir app e a ran c e l e d us t o b e li e ve
, ,

th e m t o b e A byssin i a ns i n st e ad o f B are a fo r w h o m w e h ad
, ,

mi s tak e n th e m Th e y we re a b o ut thirty in n um b e r a n d all

.
,

a rme d with l a n c e s shi e ld s a n d kn iv e s,

To o ur i n qui ry th ey
, .

an swe re d th a t th e y w e r e fro m Se rawi an d h a d c o me d o wn to ,

c a tch so me fish fo r t h e ma rk e t Our p e o pl e pre t e n d e d t o be .

‘

li e v e thi s st o ry ; an d so c o mpl e te ly did the y fe ign cre d e n ce

tha t th e y thre w t h e fi sh e rme n o ff th e ir gua rd a n d i n c o urse ,

o f c o n v e rsa ti o n dre w fro m th e m th a t th e y h a d b e e n s e ve ral

d ays o n th e rive r a n d tha t th e y h a d k n o wn o f o ur be ing

,

th e re a l so by ha vin g se e n o ur trace s so me di s t a n c e b e low

, .

Th e fa ct i s th a t th e y w e re n o d o ubt fro m D e mb e la s or
,

To kh o ul p o ssibly fo ll o we rs o f t h e r e b e l Ga bro Wa h e d and

, ,

h a d c o m e d o wn t o pick up a n y stra ggl e rs th e y m ight me et ,

wh e th e r hu n te rs o r p e asan t s cro ssi n g b e twe e n R o h a b ai ta

,

a n d Se ra wi Th e y h a d d o ubtl e ss b e e n o n o ur tra il fo r some

.

d ays ; a n d a s fo r th e ir fi shi n g it was e ith e r fo r th e ir o wn ,

fo o d o r me re ly a s a bli n d t o lure a n y o n e wh o m i gh t see

th e m D u ri n g o ur i n t e rvi e w th e y l e ft a ll t h e s p e a k i n g t o one
.

ma n t h e re st k e e pi n g a l o o f an d t alki n g a mo n g th e mse lves

, ,

i n a n un d e r t o n e Th o ugh we we re o n ly n i n e ye t all but

.
,

tw o o f us w e re a rm e d with gu n s a n d thi s pr o b a bly d e te rred ,

th e m fro m ma n i fe sti n g an y h o stil e i n t e n ti o n s th e y m ight have

h a d t o wa rd s us Our su spici o n s w e re c o n firm e d by their
.

i mme di a t e ly l e a vi n g t h e up ward c o urse th e y h ad a pp a re ntly

b e e n t aki n g a n d r e turn in g d o wn wa rd s i n a n ythi n g but the
,

di re cti o n o f Se rawi a n d so me d ays a ft e r o n o ur a rriva l a t the ,

vill a ge w e h e a rd tha t a ma n c o min g o ve r fro m S e rawi had

,

b e e n ro bb e d a n d b e a t e n by a pa rty wh o se d e scripti o n both ,

i n n u mb e rs a n d a pp e a ran c e an swe r e d t o th e irs e x a ctly

, .

C e rt a i n o f th e d e e p e r p a rt s o f th e rive r a pp e a r t o b e the
fa v o urit e dri n ki n g pl a c e s o f th e wild b e a st s fo r i n t h e sand
-
,

n e a r th e m ma b e s e e n t h e tra c e s o f al mo st e v e ry s p e ci e s of
y
a n ima l fro m th e e l e ph a n t li o n a n d bu f
, ,
fal o t o t h e ti n y hoof
, ,

pri n t s o f t h e s mall e r va ri e ti e s o f ga z e ll e an d s o n u merous

th at it wo uld a pp e a r a s i f th e y h a d b e e n driv e n d o wn in he rds .

Tra ils t o o o f se rp e n t s o f e v e ry siz e may b e se e n fro m the ,

C um !
. xv m . OR N I TH OL O G Y . 1 43

b oa c o n stricto r to th e small e st vip e r ; an d fro m th e fin e san d

-

’
n e a r th e wa t e r s e dge may b e studi e d th e di f fe re n t fo rms o f
fe e t o f th e ra pt o ri al n a ta t o ria l gra ll a to rial o r in se sso ria l
, , ,

o rd e rs b e tte r th a n in an y b o o k o f o m i th o lo gy
, .Such a pla c e ,

a t firs t vi e w ra i se s high th e e xp e cta ti o n s o f th e n a t ura li st o r

,

s p o rtsma n ; but t h e jun gl e , a cc e ssibl e o n ly thr o ugh p a th s

tro dd e n in it by th e e le pha n t o r bu ffa l o i s a co ve r whe re th e

,

m e ca n l i e safe fro m th e ir a tta ck s Th e o m i t h o l o gi t h

g a . s as

mo st cha n ce o f succe ss ; fo r i n th e s tre am are o fte n fo u n d

man y vari e ti e s o f wa te r bird s an d th e l arge tre e s an d bu sh e s
-
,

o n th e hi gh e r gro u n d will firrn ish h im with a go o d man y

s p e ci me n s o f th e o th e r o rd e r s .
1 44 LIFE IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P XI X. .

C H A PTE R XIX .

in men s —I ts ef ectr o n a wa r -pa rty S couti ng A scout dress

o — — ’
s

a n d i m leme n ts —H i t en o me n t r—F ood

p jy of S t j o h n t h e B a
p t i st
N 1gh tly preca uti on s L i on s —D ifficulty of gett i n g a t th em
.

— Th e rifl
’
er

i h t—A a r d s—F r ui t less pursui t —A s i n ia m

p l ac e a t n
g p y f
a rt o c o w b u
a n d cl o th ed—D emo ; a li a ng
'

co ura eo us i n pr o or ti o n as th e
g p y a re w ell fed
f
ten de n cy o
y T h e B
n a t i on a l s la v eza r ea T h e i r cu n n i n g a n d a i
g y l it
Th ei r mode of a ttach—E asi ly repulsed by fir mn ess Th ei r pr ac t i ce when
rs ued—A n ecd o ter con cer n i n m Th i m d of pa s s i n i ht
pu g t h e e r o e
g t h e n g

B E F OR E s a t rti n g xp e diti o n th e A byssin i a n s lik e the

o n an y e , ,

an ci e n t R o man s li st e n fo r t h e v o ic e o f c e rta in bird s ; and

,

a cc o rdi n g t o wh e th e r th e ir n o t e s are h e a rd o n th e right hand

o r o n th e l e ft so d o th e y a n ticip a t e a p ro sp e r o u s o r u n fa v o u
,
r

a bl e j o u rn e y I h av e kn o wn man y e xp e diti o n s fo r t h e pur

.

p o se s o f wa r o r hu n ti n g p o stp o n e d a t th e m o m e n t when ,

i f un d e rta k e n succ e ss se e me d n e a rly c e rta in s i m ply b e cause

, ,

a littl e bird ca ll e d fro m th e l e ft h a n d sid e a t s t a rti n g

-
Simi .

la rly man y a wife h a s b e e n k e pt fo r se ve ral d a y s an xi o usly

,

e xp e cti n g h e r hu sba n d b e ca u se th e bird cho se t o p e rch on

,

t h e ri ght h an d ; th e right h an d o me n b e i n g pro piti o u s for

-

se tti n g o ut fro m h o m e t h e l e ft fo r r e turn i n g

, Th e black .

”
a n d whit e fa lc o n c a ll e d h e re
,
ga ddy ga ddy i s c o n side red ,

a bi rd o f o m e n i n s o m e p a rt s o f Tigre I f thi s bird fly away

.

a t th e a ppro a ch o f tra v e ll e rs t h e sign i s u n fa v o ura bl e

, whil e ,

o n t h e c o n t ra ry i f it re ma i n p e rch e d a n d l o o ki n g a t th em
, ,

the y c o un t up o n a mo st p ro sp e ro u s j o urn e y Hu n te rs on .

t h e Ma re b fo ll o w much t h e wa rn i n g o f a sma ll bird a s to the

dire cti o n th e y sh o uld t a k e ; a n d I ha ve kn o wn p a rti e s turn
b a ck fro m pursui n g t h e fre sh tra il o f a h e rd o f bu ffa l o e s and ,

t ak e an o pp o sit e dire cti o n me re ly b e ca u se i t s chi rp was

,

h e ard o n th e wro n g sid e O n c c a party o f a b o ut thirty

.
,
146 L I F E I N A B YS S I N I A . Cw . xt x.

or in d ee d with o ut so muc h as kno win g i t m yse lf It is .

a mo s t i n d e pe n d e n t life My dre ss o n t ho se
.

'
sis te d o f a sh o rt kilt o f n i cel y ta n n e d an te l o pe s h id e a piece ,

o f co a rse co t to n c l o th wra ppe d ro un d my wa ist by da y as a

’
be lt an d use d as a co ve ri ng at n ight an d a sma ll wil d ca t s ,

o r j acka l s s kin th ro wn o v e r t h e le ft sh o uld e r

'
A d d to th ese .

a kid a fill e d wi th flo ur a litt le h o rn o f ca y e n n e p e ppe r

,

an d sa lt mi xe d an d a sma ll pic e e of t h in l e ath e r fo r a b e d

, ,

a n d yo u ha v e all th e wardro be kitch e n an d furn iture w hic h , ,

’
an Abyss in i a n fro n ti e r ma n th in ks ne ce ssa ry fo r a fo rt n i ght s
-

o u t lyin g A fli n t a n d ste e l sl o w ma tc h an awl n ip pe rs for

.
, , ,

e x tra cti n g th o rns an d arms an d ammu n i ti on are o f c o urse

, ,

a dd e d : an d wi t h s uch me a n s fo r pro cu ri n g c o mforts an d ,

so me luck w ith hi s rifle i f a ma n can n o t b e ha ppy i n a dry

,

climate I wo n d e r wha t h e wo uld wis h fo r ! Ev e n if you

,

ha ve n o s po rt wi t h ga me th e re are al ways s ma ll b irds , ,

sn akes fish li z ard s & c

, ,
t o b e ha d ; so th a t yo u n ee d n ever
, .
,

wa n t . B e s ides th e bra n che s o f th e di ma tree furn is h a kind

,
-

Frui t o f th e Di ms ( A da man t! d fgtl a ra ) . N atura ll gh

en t . ab o ut 9 i nch es .

of frui t, which, tho ugh n o t v e ry so lid as fo o d, ye t a id s mud )

to th e fla vo ur o f t he cui ri ne It has a large gree n is h sli d
.

( as it m a y b e ca ll e d ) : i ns id e o f it ar e a n um b er o f M
at tach e d t o which b
y fib re s i s a qu an tity o f y e ll o w ish 1: m
cake y wd r h vi g w tis h aci d taste , an d whe n mixed
p o e ,
a n a s e e
 C HA P . x rx . s c o H TI N G . 1 47

with w a te r fo rmin g gre e abl e be ve rage so me thi n g re se m

an a ,

bli n g l e mo n ad e Th e A byssi n i an s make a p aste o f thi s

.
,

mixi n g it with re d p e pp e r a n d sa lt an d e a t it with th e ,

go go bre ad Wh e n th e di ma re a ch e s a ce rta in siz e i t s

.

t run k a l mo st a lways b e c o m e s h o ll o w an d th e n it o ft e n c o n
tai n s wild h o n e y which ma y e a sily b e o btai n e d with th e
,
’
he lp o f a small a xe an d fire St J o hn t h e Bapti st s livi n g . .

o n l o cu st s an d wild h o n e y i s e a sily u n d e rst o o d by a n y o n e

wh o h as b ee n i n th e se c o u n tri e s Th e A byssi n i an s re h1se .

t o e a t t h e l o cu st an d d e n y th a t it wa s th e i n se ct which was
,
’
t h e Sa in t s fo o d a sse rtin g th a t it wa s th e fr uit o f a tre e c a ll e d
,

by th e same n a me (amb a tta ) Th e n igge rs an d i n habita n ts .

o f Se n naa r h o we ve r e a t t h e l o cu s ts willi n gly

, , I h ave o ft e n .

ta s te d the m ; an d tho ugh th e re i s n o th in g di sagre e abl e i n

t h e ir fl a vo ur still I ca n n o t say th a t the y a re a p a rt icula rly
,

d e lici o u s fo o d Th e n a tive s pre pa re the m by pullin g o ff

.

th e ir l e gs an d wi n gs an d ro a sti n g th e m o n an iro n di sh like

, ,

c o ffe e .

Th e usu al sp o t ch o se n by a sc o ut fo r p assi n g th e n ight i s

o n so me sma ll hill which b e i n g a littl e e l e va t e d a b o v e th e
, ,

wa t e r pl ac es t h e sl e e p e r i n a me asure o ut o f d an ge r o f
, , ,

m ia s ma an d o f b e i n g run o ve r by a h e rd o f bu ffal o e s o r
e l e pha n ts The re i s a ve ry c o n ve n i e n t sp o t fo r thi s purp o se
.

n o t fa r b e lo w R o h a b ai ta : a h o ll o w i n t h e t o p o f th e hill o ck

r e n t s th e fire fro m b e in g se e n e ith e r by ma n o r b e a st

p e v ,

a n d t h e can e s b e l o w are o fte n ch o se n by bu ffa l o e s a s lo dg

i n g fo r th e n ight F ar fro m k e e pin g up great fi re s a s a

.
,

pro te cti o n fro m wild b e a st s hun t e rs o n th e M a re b u su a lly ,

m a k e th e irs e ith e r i n a n at ura l h o l e i n th e gro u n d o r dig ,

o n e o n purp o se i f such sh o uld n o t b e fo u n d in a c o n v e n i e n t

,

s p o t a n d pil e b o ugh s o f tr e e s a ll ro un d t o pr e v e n t t h e gl a re
,

fro m b e i n g see n Th e se pre cauti o n s a re n e c e ssary p artly

.
,

tha t th e bl a z e may n o t k e e p a way th e bu ffa l o a n d p a rtly ,

l e s t it s h o uld a ttract t h e B are a A s fo r t h e li o n s th e y .

,

al m o s t a lwa ys pro wl e d a b o ut us duri n g th e n ight ; but o ur

o n ly pra y e r wa s th a t th e y might s to p n e a r us a n d n o t

di s tu rb o the r ga me I fan cy tha t th e atta ck s fro m which

.

tra v e ll e rs have su ffe re d mu st h av e b e e n i n duc e d by th e i r

L 2
1 48 LIFE IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P XI X . .

ha vin g a n i mal s with th e m I re me mb e r o n e n ight b e ing

.

e sp e ci a lly a n n o y e d by li o n s We we re an xi o u s ly wa itin g for

.

m o rn i n g t o a tta ck a h e rd o f bu ffa l o e s th a t we h a d w a tch ed

i n to so me ca n e s n o t man y hu n dre d ya rd s di s ta n t Two .

li o n s h a d b e e n pro wlin g ro u n d us fo r so me ho urs A t l ast .

,

tire d o f us th e y d e sc e n d e d a n d fe ll up o n o ur h o rn e d n e igh
,

bo u rs a n d we h a d t h e mo rti fica ti o n o f h e a ri n g th e m gallop

a wa y w ith th e li o n s a ft e r th e m Eve n i f th e p ursu e rs h ad
.

h a d luck we might h a ve pro fit e d by it fo r w e s h o uld sure ly

,

h av e kill e d a go rge d li o n n e x t day be sid e s ge tti n g th e h o rns

, ,

a n d p e rh a p s p a rt o f t h e s ki n o f i t s victi m
,
.

I n e v e r kille d a li o n si n gl e han d e d duri n g all my s tay in

-

Aby ss in i a it i s n o t a n e a sy thin g t o a cc o mpli sh I n th e .

pla i n c o u n t ry th e y are a lmo st u n kn o wn I n th e quo llas .

th e y a re pl e n ti ful but n o o n e k n o ws wh e re t o fin d th e m in
,

t h e d a y ti me
-
in fa ct fro m t h e n a ture o f th e co u n try t o dis
, ,

c o ve r the m is a l mo st i mp o ssibl e I n e ve r o n c e h e a rd a .

n a tive h un t e r o f th e se p a rt s sa y th a t h e h a d se e n o r h e ard

Th e O pi n i o n o f t h e n a tiv e s wa s tha t t he se
’
o f a li o n s d e n .
,

a n i ma l s liv e d du ri n g th e d a y a mo n g t h e i n a cc e s s ibl e ro cks

a n d ju n gl e but a t n o fi x e d pla ce A fe w a re kill e d ; b ut

,
.

th e se a re e ith e r me t by a ccid e n t o r a re fo u n d s l e e pin g after

,

h avi n g go rge d th e mse l v e s o n s o me a n imal A t n ight I have .

o ft e n w a tc h e d fo r th e m b ut ge n e ra lly with o ut succ e ss ;

,

a stre a m i s v e ry d i ffe re n t fro m a s i n gl e p o o l ; o u t ti o n

y s a

yo u rs e l f a t a sp o t wh e re by th e ir tra il s yo u s e e th e y have
b e e n b e fo re wa tch a ll n ight a n d in th e m o rn i n g fin d that
, , ,

e ith e r b y a ccid e n t o r b e i n g a wa re o f y o ur p re s e n c e t hey ,

h av e se l e cte d an o th e r d ri n ki n g pl a c e h a l f a m il e o ff ; and
-

w h e n th e y did c o me it wa s n e x t t o i mp o s sibl e t o shoot

th e m.

Y o u h e a r a li o n ro a r i n t h e di stan c e ; pre se n tly a little

n e a re r ; th e n yo u st a rt up h e ari n g a s h o rt b a rk cl o se by ;

an d i f th e re b e a fire o r m o o n light p e rh a p s yo u ma s ee
y,

a li ght c o l o ur e d o bj e ct glidi n g quickly p a st fro m o n e bush

-

t o an o th e r b e fo re yo u a re sure wh e th e r o r n o yo u saw any

thi n g it i s go n e Y o u sit wa tchi n g fo r a mo me n t rifle in
,
.
,

ha n d e xp e cti n g h im to app e a r again whe n (h o w he got

. ,
150 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P XI X
. .

s till di sgu ste d with th e co wa rdice an d l e tha rgy o f o ur n e igh

,

bo urs o f Se ra wi we d e te rmi n e d to se t th e m a be tt e r e xa mple

, ,

an d i mme di a te ly sta rt e d d o wn t h e riv e r i n h o p e s o f cutting

o ff th e r e t re a t o f th e e n e my with o ut h e e di n g t h e m ,
e e t in g

pl a c e which h ad b e e n a ssign e d t o us B ut it wa s o f n o use .

t h e Ba re a a ft e r striki n g a co u
, p a re t o o wi se t o r e m
,
a in l on g
in t h e sa me sp o t a n d b e i n g m o re a ctive a n d quit e as well
, ,

a cqu ai n t e d with t h e c o u n try as t h e A by ssi n ia n s th e y h a d n o ,

d o ubt a rrive d n e ar th e ir o wn fro n ti e r l o n g b e fo re we e ven

sta rt e d i n pursuit o f th e m R e turn i n g a fte r a h a rd day s
.
’
wo rk we fo u n d t h e p e o pl e o f Se rawi d awdli n g a b o ut ta ki ng
, ,

th e b o di e s t o b e buri e d whil e s o m e o f th e m h a d e v e n th e
,

i mpud e n c e t o upbraid us fo r h avi n g sta rt e d with o ut th em ,

an d fo r n o t h a vi n g a tt e n d e d t h e pl a c e o f me e ti n g agr ee d

up o n A fe w o f o ur p a rty we re d e siro u s o f fo rmin g a

.

str o n g fo rc e i n o rd e r t o a v e n ge o ur l o st fri en d s but we

, ,

co uld n o t c o ll e ct a d o z e n wh o wo uld co n se n t t o j o i n us
so me pl e a d e d tha t it wa s b e tt e r t o s tay a t h o me a n d guard

th e ir pro p e rty a n d fam ili e s ; o th e rs th a t a lth o ugh th a t sort ,

o f fo ra y w o uld h a v e b e e n we ll e n o ugh in b e tt e r t i m e s yet ,

n o w th e y we re a p o o r a n d o ppre sse d ra c e an
d h a d th e re fore ,

mo re i n cli n a ti o n t o re mai n a t h o me a n d try to ma k e mo n ey .

It is a we ll kn o wn fa ct tha t i f yo u fe e d a n A byss i n i an we ll
-
, , ,

an d cl o th e h im s ma rtly h e will as h e b e c o m e s fa t an d
, ,

pro ud b e n o t o n ly t o l e ra bly co urage o u s but e v e n o ften

, ,

ho rribly qua rre l so me whil e i f thin a n d ragge d h e i s as , ,

’
me e k a s a ha l f we a n e d la mb -
An A byssi n ian s c o urage
.
,

i n d e e d chi e fly d e p e n d s e ithe r o n p e rso n a l van ity o r in ter

,

e st e d h o p e s ; th e r e a re o f c o urse man y e xc e pti o n s t o this

, ,

ra the r t o o ge n e ra l rul e ; an d whil e I sp e a k o f th e m thus

se v e re ly o n thi s p o i n t I c a n n o t but pity ra th e r th a n bl ame
,

th e m B e fo re th e o ppre ssi o n o f t h e Amh hra th e y w e re truly

.

b ra ve but wh e n a n a ti o n i s re duc e d to a state o f sla ve ry it ,

is ra re tha t it d o e s n o t b e c o me d e mo ra liz e d i n e v e ry way ,

th e p e o ple l o si n g th e ir fo rme r e n e rgy an d th a t fe e l ing of

prid e which afte r a ll i s mo stly th e i n duce me n t t o great
, ,

d e e d s U n til th e Tigrea n s we re subdu e d the y h a d h ad for

.

ce n turi e s th e pre stige o f vi cto ry o n th e ir side an d this is ,

C HA P . x rx . TH E B A RE A . 15 1

a lw a y s a gre a t e n co urage me n t e ve n t o brave me n n o w th e y

ha v e n o thi n g b e i n g sca rce ly t o b e co n sid e re d as a n a ti o n
, ,

tro dd e n u n d e r fo o t an d o ppre sse d a s the y a re by th e stra n ge r .

Th e B a r e a m o re o v e r are e n e mi e s n o t a t a ll t o b e d e spi se d
, ,

e v e n by th e bra ve st Equ a l in e ve ry re sp e ct a s re ga rd s
.
,

cun n in g an d agility t o th e R e d I n di an s o f N o rth Ame rica

, ,

th e y are sup e ri o r t o the m in p o in t o f sta ture an d physica l

stre n gth Wh e n the y li e o ut n e a r a ro a d in wa it fo r
.
,

p as se rs b y th e y W111 fo ll o w a stro n g p a rty fo r d ays glidin g

-
, ,

u n p e rce ive d a n d n o i se l e ssly lik e so man y sn a k e s i n th e ,

gra s s a n d wa itin g till an o ppo rtu n ity o ccurs whe n th e p a rty

, ,

fa tigu e d o r hu n gry sh o uld put a sid e th e ir we a p o n s an d se e k

, ,

fo r re p o s e a t a ha lti n g pl a ce ; a t o th e r ti me s th e y will li e
-

co n c e a l e d n e a r a ro a d with sco uts in e ve ry dire cti o n o n t h e

,

lo o k o ut ye t n o o n e v e n t uri n g t o sp e a k but o nly ma kin g

-
, ,

k n o wn by sign s wha t h e may ha ve t o c om mun ica te t o h is

c o mp a n i o n s o r le a d e r Thu s h e will p o in t t o h is e ar an d
.

fo o t o n h e a ri n g fo o t s te p s t o h is e ye s o n se e i n g p e rso n s
,

a pp ro a ch o r t o h i s t o n gue i f v o ic e s b e a udibl e ; a n d will

,

iri di ca t e o n h i s fi n ge rs th e n u mb e rs o f th o se c o min g d e sc rib ,

i n g a l so an y p a rticula rs as t o h o w man y p o rte rs b e a sts o f ,

burd e n o r fo r ridi n g the re may b e with th e p a rty Thi s wa s

, .

to ld m e by a man wh o h a d b e e n tak e n pri so n e r by the m ,

a n d liv e d fo r so m e ti me a mo n g t h e m .

Th e ir a tta ck i s ma d e o n a sign fro m th e ir l e ad e r by a ,

v o ll e y o f st o n e s an d club s b e in g di scharge d a t o n ce o n th e
c o m e rs an d b e fo re th e y ha ve re co ve re d fro m th e di sa gre e
a bl e sta rt which thi s ra ttl e ab o ut th e ir e a r s may h a v e ca u se d

th e m t h e Ba re a ru sh a t th e m with t h e fury o f so man y d e vil s

, ,

a rme d with la n c e a n d swo rd The ir lan ce s a re ve ry p o o r .

t o o l s a n d se ld o m much e ste e me d by th e m fo r fightin g b e i n g

, ,

mo re o fte n e mpl o y e d fo r diggi n g h o l e s in th e gro u n d th e

fo rmid a bl e two e dge d c ro ss ha n d l e d b ro a d swo rd u se d by
-
,
-

all t h e A r a b s a n d N ubi a n s i s th e ir fa vo urit e w e a p o n a n d , ,

o n e which th e y ge n e ra lly wi e ld with c o n sid e ra bl e v igo ur i f ,

n o t s kill Lik e mo st p e o p le a cti n g o n th e o ffe n sive in a b a d

.

ca u se it h a s fre qu e n tly b e e n re ma rke d o f th e se savage s th a t

, ,

if th e i r Oppo n e n ts, u n di smaye d by th e ir first a ttack sta n d ,

152 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XI X.

firm, dvan ce bo ldly to me e t the m th e y will re ti re as fast

or a ,

as th e y ca me o n wh e re as i f th e a tt a ck e d p art y b e ta k e n by
,

su rpri s e th e y will mo st a ssure dly butch e r e v e ry m an o f th e m

,
.

It is o f n o use run n i n g a way fo r the y ha v e lo n ge r l e gs than

,

the ir n e ighbo urs b o th wh e n pursui n g an d flyi n g I n their

, .

re tre a t s the y e vin ce quit e as much cu n n i n g a s i n th e ir a tta cks .

A s I be fo re sa id th e y are in ge n e ra l b o th s tro n g e r and

,

light e r o f fo o t tha n th e A byssi n ian s ; but if by ch a n c e an

O ld o r clu msy Ba re a sh o uld fin d himse lf pursu e d by a n A bys
s i n i a n a n d p e rc e iv e th a t h is pu rsu e r ga i n s o n h i m h e wi ll
, ,

fi rst dro p h is garme n t th e n h i s l a n ce th e n h i s s hi e ld re tai n

, , ,

in g al way s t o t h e la st h i s tru sty sw o rd Th e B a r e a in d o ing .

,

thi s sh o ws h is k n o wl e dge o f th e ch ara cte r o f h i s e n e my An

, .

A byssi n i a n i s a l wa y s mo s t an xi o u s fo r a tro phy a n d w o uld ,

n e v e r thi n k o f p a s si n g by an ythin g thu s ca st a w a y by the

fo e l e st so me o n e o f h i s c o mra d e s sh o uld pick it up and

, ,

gai n t h e cre d it which h e mo re d e se rve dly a spi re d t o so he

t ak e s up e a ch succe ssiv e articl e a s it i s thro wn d o w n and ,

i n t h e e n d t h e Ba re a u su a lly succ e e d s i n e ffe cti n g h i s e s c ape ;

fo r h is pu rs u e r n o t o n ly e n cu mb e rs himse l f with wh a t he
h a s t o ca rry but a l so by fre qu e n tly st o ppin g t o c o ll e ct his
, ,

tro phi e s all o ws t h e fugi t i v e a co n sid e ra bl e a dva n t a ge M o re

, .

o v e r t o sp e a k t h e t ruth man y a n Aby s s i n i an w o uld pre fer

, ,

l e tti n g a Ba re a ge t a way t o fo rcin g h im t o s ta n d a n d fight

fo r h is li fe .

O n c e a p a rty we re re turn in g t o Ro h a b aita h a vi n g b e en ,

t o t h e ma rk e t o f Ad daro wh e n c o mi n g t o t h e h a lti n g pl ace

,
-

the y cauti o u sly e xam in e d th e who l e n e ighb o urh o o d and , ,

sa ti sfi e d th a t n o d a n ge r wa s n e a r th e m pre p ar e d t o take ,

the ir me al a n d re p o se ; but th e Ba re a mo re cu n n i n g than ,

th e y h a d c o n ce a l e d th e mse lve s s o we ll tha t th e y re mained

,

u n di sco ve re d a ltho ugh at n o gre a t di s ta n c e fro m t h e spot

,

wh e re th e Ab ys si n i a n s w e re lyi n g M a n y o f t h e la tt e r were
.

fa tigu e d fro m h a vi n g c a rri e d l a rge p a ck s a n d t h e o th ers ,

w e re e qu a lly s o fro m ru n n i n g a bo ut aft e r th e l a d e n asse s ,

which i s n o e a sy t ask as t h e p a ck s ge t di spl a c e d an d the

, ,

a n i ma l s ge n e ra lly ma n a ge t o st ray o ut o f t h e ro a d in
t h e mo st awkwa rd pl a c e s H avi n g fill e d th e ir s t o machs
.
,
1 54 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H A P XI X . .

e vide n t that if th e B a re a we re in Mai C h e na t h e y could -

n o t b e m o r e tha n a fe w ya rd s di sta n t fro m us a n d that

havin g se e n us we ha d n o ch an ce o f e scap in g b y fligh t—a

, ,

co urse which wa s i n d e e d pro p o se d by o n ly t wo o f t h e party ,

an d th e ir v o t e was i n s ta n tly n e gative d fo rm i n g o ur

’
so ,

se lve s i n t o a so rt o f tri an gl e we d e te rmi n e d i f o p p o se d to

, , ,

cl e ar th e way fo r o urse lve s On e o f th e t wo p e a sa n ts was

.

an e l e ph a n t hu n t e r a n d t o o k a gun fro m o n e o f my se rvan ts

-
, ,

wh o k n e w b e tte r t h e use o f t h e lan ce ; an d s o we a dvan ced

re ally i n go o d s tyl e sin gi n g an d l o o ki n g as plucky as we
, ,

co n v e n i e n tly co uld u n d e r th e circu mstan c e s A rrive d at .

t h e bro o k we fo u n d i n dub it able pro o fs o f th e ir n e ighbo ur

,

—
ho o d l e a ve s a n d grass which the y h a d put o n s t o n e s to sit
up o n a bro k e n go urd a n d a gr e at n umb e r o f fo o t pri n ts in
, ,
-

th e sa n d which th e wa t e r was e ve n ye t gra dua lly filling

, .

The y h a d e vid e n tly se e n o ur a ppro ach a n d h ad d o ubtless ,

t ak e n up a sn ug p o siti o n e ith e r fo r an a tta ck o r t o d e fend

,

the mse lv e s Th e r o a d fo r a sh o rt dis ta n c e ran among

.

mo u n d s a n d bu sh e s o ut o f which we e xpe ct e d e v e ry mo
,

me n t t o se e an e n e my spri n g o r at l e as t to re c e i ve a h ostile
,

mi ssil e o f so me kin d ; but e xce pt a n o cca s i o n a l rustle , ,

n o thi n g o ccurre d till we go t i n t o cl e a r c o u n try A rrived .

th e re w e fe lt o ur c o urage wa x so me thin g a wful

, We .

halte d an d co n sult e d wh e th e r we might n o t d o a little in

,

th e gl o ry gai n i n g li n e by go i n g i n to t h e j un gl e aga i n and

-
,

striki n g fo r a tro phy o r t wo ; but thi s was o bj e ct e d to by

t h e wi se r o f th e p a rty as o ur fire a rms wo uld th e n gi ve us

,
-

n o a dva n tage o v e r th e m si n c e it wo uld b e n e c e ssa rily all

,

clo se qu a rte r wo rk an d b e cau se th e y wo uld se e us while

-
, ,

we sh o uld pro ba bly n o t se e th e m So we c o n t e n te d o ur .

se lv e s w ith s ta n di n g o n a ri se a n d ha ll o o i n g a t th e m calling ,

th em a ll th e n a me s o ur i magi n ati o n s c o uld s ugg e s t in a ,

l an guage which o f c o urse th e y co uld n o t un d e rs tan d ; and

my grass cutte r a b o y o f fo urt e e n an d so slight that I
-
, ,

d o ubt i f h e c o uld ha v e kill e d a rat gre w so b l o o dthirsty ,

th a t h e was o blige d t o give v e n t to h i s o th e rwi se over

b o ili n g fe e lin gs by picki n g up a small pe bbl e an d ca sting it ,

man fully in t h e dire cti o n in which th e e n e my we re supposed

C HAP . XI X . A N E CD O TE S OF TH E B A RE A .

to li e hidd en . N one of th e me n wh o we re with me , ex

c e pt i n g p e a san t s we re n ativ e s o f thi s p a rt o f th e

th e t wo ,

co un t ry an d t o thi s I a ttribut e i n a gre a t me a sure the ir

—
,

un usually b av e c o n duct
r whil e t h e prud e n t c o n duct o f o ur
e n e mi e s m ay b e a ttribut e d t o o ur we a ri n g th e ra th e r sma rt

co stu me o f so ldi e rs o n th i s o cca si o n (we we re go in g o n a

v i sit t o Me rra t c h a n d w e re a ttir e d i n o ur b e s t t o gg e ry) an d
, ,

t o t h e di ffe r e n c e b e t we e n th e l o n g sp e a rs bro a d shi e ld s , ,

an d re d mo ro cco sh e a th e d swo rd s o f o ur p a rty a n d t h e ,

trump e ry a rms which th e y h a d b e e n a ccu sto me d to se e

ca rri e d by th e p e o pl e o f th e co u n try .

D urin g my st ay we we re fre qu e n tly an n o y e d by th e

in cursi o n s o f th e B are a Sh o rtly a ft e r my fi rst arriva l
‘

th e di stri ct s o f Zagge r a n d A sga ddy l o st a n u mb e r o f me n

an d i n o ur o wn i mme di a te n e ighb o urho o d a villa ge o f
To kh uli mn y in which p a ri sh I was th e n re sidin g wa s o n e
, ,

n ight a tta cke d an d fo ur p e rso n s w e re kill e d a n d thre e

,

ta k e n priso n e rs Th e mo st amusin g thi n g I e ve r h e a rd o f

.

wa s th e ir walki ng o ff with two e ld e rly ge n tl e me n o n e a ,

p e tty chi e f o f a vill age in R o h ab ai ta o n ly two mil e s fro m ,

A ddy H ari sh o a n d ra th e r a gre a t ma n i n h i s way e sp e ci al ly

, ,

i n hi s o wn o pi n i o n B y t h e way thi s h a pp e n e d b e fo re t h e
.
,

cas e I h a v e ju st me n ti o n e d It was o n th e ve ry d ay tha t I

.

wa s cha n gi n g qua rt e rs fo r a mo n th o r t wo a n d go i n g t o ,

To kh uli mn y o n a vi sit I was j ust taki n g a so rt o f s tirrup

.

c up wi t h t h e o l d chi e f W a ddy Hil my mul e stan di n g ,

s a ddl e d o ut sid e t h e hut a n d my me n waiti n g wh e n I h e a rd

, ,

a lo ud wai l fro m a di s ta n c e I calle d h i s att e n ti o n t o it

.
,
’
an d w e we n t o ut ; an d a ft e r a mo me n t s p au se th e c ry , ,
‘ ‘ ”
Th e s la ve s are at A ddy Khawk h ah wa s di sti n ctly h e a rd
fro m a n e ighb o uri n g hill Thi s wa s a mo st di sagre e abl e
.

pi e c e o f n e ws fo r all p arti e s M o st o f o ur v illage rs h a d .

re la ti ve s the re ; a n d a s th e me sse n ge r c o uld giv e us n o

p a rti cul a rs fro m th e d i stan ce a t which h e ca ll e d t h e wo r st ,

a ppre h e n si o n s w e re i mme di a t e ly fo rm e d Th e wo me n b e gan .

t o w ai l a n d lam e n t with l o ud cri e s Th e me n se t ab o ut t o .

pre p a re the ir we ap o n s with a b u stl e which app e a re d to me

mo re like th e co n fu si o n o f fright than e age rn e ss fo r th e fra y .
1 56 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . xrx

We we re truly i n a n un pl e asan t si tu a ti o n t h e e n e my might

ch o o se t o c o me a n d pay us a vi sit a l so Th e ir having .

v e n tur e d t o a ttack a village in bro a d d a ylight pr o ve d that ,

t h e p a rty wa s a stro n g o n e wh e re a s we we r e a bl e t o muster

,

o n ly a b o ut t we n ty me n fro m th e vill ag e a n d n e igh b o urh oo d ,

t h e re st b e i n g i n t h e fi e l d s o r o th e rwi s e e n ga ge d at a
di sta n c e Such a s we we re h o we v e r we s t a rt e d fo r the
.
, ,

supp o se d sc e n e o f bl o o d sh e d l e a vi n g o n ly th e o ld m e n and
,

b o ys t o ta k e ca re o f th e wo me n an d a fte r cro s s i n g about

th e mo st fatigui n gly ro ugh pi e c e o f c o u n try i m a gi n able ,

a rriv e d a t t h e fo o t o f th e hill o n which th e vill a ge i s situ

at e d . Eve n whil e ye t b e l o w th e ye ll s o f th e wo m e n were

,

di stin ctly a udibl e an d ma d e us hurry o n fa n cyi n g that

, ,
’

th e sl aught e r was still pro c e e di n g ; but wh e n w e r e a ch e d the

su mmit we fo u n d th a t th e pl a c e h a d n o t a ctu a lly be en

a tta ck e d but th a t G o e tan a A it o W e ld a Se la s sy t h e chief

, , ,

a n d Go e tan a A it o S o me b o dy El se b o th highly r e s p e ctable ,

’
ge n tl e me n h app e n in g t o b e o ut fo r a m o rn i n g s w a lk to
,

—
wa rd s th e ir c o tt o n fie l d s h a d a ccid e n t ally put th e ir fe e t into
,

t h e mid st o f a b a n d o f B a r e a wh o h a d wa lk e d th e m o ff as
,

pri so n e rs i f the y h a d n o t murde re d the m Th e fo rmer

,
.
,

ho we ve r wa s th e o pin io n m o st ge n e ra lly e n t e rt a i n e d It
, .

was p ai n ful t o h e a r t h e p o o r wiv e s a n d childre n o f the

mi ssi ng w o rthi e s b e wa ilin g th e m a s d e ad T ru ly w e re they .

wid o we d a n d b e re a ve d th o ugh th e ir hu sb an d s o r fa thers

,

we r e p o ss ib ly a liv e I co uld n o t h e lp pityi n g th e m : still I

.

h ad t o fight h a rd with my se l f in o rd e r t o re pr e s s a smile

which k e pt c o mi n g up ju st wh e n it wa s l e as t wa n t e d at the ,

n o ti o n o f t h e gr e a t th e wo rt h y t h e p o mp o u s A ito We lda
, ,
’
Se lassy s p o ssibl e fa t e A ma n o f h is di gn ity t o b e s o ld to
.

t h e A ra b s th e n c e t o t h e Tu rk s a n d ma d e i n al l pr o b abili ty
, ,

t o p e rfo rm t h e mo s t m e n i a l h o u se h o ld o fli c e s w as such a ,

truly ludicro u s r e ve rse o f fo rtun e Thi s i s a ll v e ry w e ll on .

p ap e r ; but fe e li n gs o f pity a ctu a te d us mo re th an even

th o se o f mirth o n th e o cca si o n an d so we se t o ut t o j oin ,

th e o th e r vill ag e rs wh o w e re a lre a dy o n t h e tra il o f the

e n e my . We p asse d t h e sp o t wh e re th e Ba re a h ad lain
t h e n ight b e fo re an d fo un d th a t th e y we re a hu n dre d and
,
 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XIX .

'
e sse n ti al part o f th e charact e r o f e v e ry man o f o ur n a tio n l ) ”

h ad sav e d t h e re st o f th e p a rty an d w h e re I h ad done

,

de e d s wo rthy o f a B a ya rd o r an A dmira b l e C richton .

Alas ! I h ave n o n e such t o t e ll Th e o n ly re n c o n tre s which

.

I co uld re l at e wo ul d i n n o wi se e i th e r a muse m y readers

o r re fle ct cr e dit o n an y p e rso n co n n e cte d w ith t h e v ictors ,

be in g fo r th e mo st part bl o o dy re tali a tio n s wh e re in a few,

me n we re butche re d an d mutila te d by o fte n t e n t i me s their

n u mbe rs . Tha t th e y we re j us t re tri buti o n s t h e re is no
’
d o ubt ; fo r h e tha t sh e d de th man s bl o o d b y man shall ,

hi s bl o o d b e sh e d . B ut I d o n o t ca re t o re ca ll th e m and ,

sh o uld h o p e th a t fe w o f my co un trym e n wo ul d c o n s id e r the

de s cripti o n s o f such sc e n e s as mo re agre e a bl e th a n would

b e tha t o f th e d e ca pita ti o n o f a crimi n a l o r so me p eculiar
’

mo de o f butch e ri n g an i mal s .

I quo te th is o ut o f a b o o k o f tra v e ls, th e auth o r o f w h i ch (

not an

E ngli sh man ) th us des crib ed his o wn pro wess .

C HA P . XX . 5 7 . TH E OD OR E S . 1 59

C H APTE R XX .

R och wa ter ta n
- - —
h A bys i n ia n meet — ’
S t Mich ael s
E we a t A ddy
—
s s
—
.

H a w h o R eli gi ous da nce a n d song P ugi li sm Tropi ca l n igh ts

a

Cseri o us ma tri mon i a l a r ra ngemen t Th e jungle on fire A predica men t —

—P ro m pt —
measures & w b ur con seque nce : of th e fire Gra n deur of th e
spectac le—A ttem t to bl ow u a tow n T h id i o t Ma h oz/a zL A h un tzn
p p e g
-
g
p y t — A t u l l m— B j
u l h i h i ld — A i t M t h
’
mi
—
a r n oc rn a a a r b o s n s -
e s o err a c 3 :

tahe a n d n a rro w escape—Meri t of kil li ng a bu f a l o L a me con cl usio n qf

the h un t —D epa rture for Hdoua .

I wa s ve ry n e ar run n in g away fro m R o h ab aita with o ut

sayin g a wo rd a b o ut t h e pre tti e st sp o t i n th e wh o l e pro vi n c e .

’
Wi n di n g up sti ll highe r amo n g th e hill s afte r a n ho ur s ,

climb fro m A ddy H arish o yo u re a ch th e littl e h aml e t an d

church d e dicate d t o Ab o u na Te de ro s (St Th e o d o re ) th e .
,

pa tro n sa i n t o f R o h ab ai ta Th e village which c o n si sts

.
,

o n ly o f t wo o r thre e h o u se s th e church a n d a l o n g sh e d o r
, ,

b ut u s e d by a fe w shriv e ll e d mo n k s as a mo n a st e ry i s built ,

o n a l a rge ro ck which a pp e a rs a l mo st t o h av e d e ta ch e d
,

itse l f fro m th e re ma i n d e r o f t h e mo u n ta i n h avi n g c o mmu ,

n ica ti o n with it by o n ly o n e sid e which d e sc e n d s gra du a lly

, ,

an d fo rm s a gully with t h e sl o p e o f th e hill b e hi n d it Th e .

re mai n i n g thre e fa ce s o f th e ro ck fa ll in abr upt pre cipic e s ,

th o se o f t h e n o rth an d so uth sid e s t e rmi n a tin g i n d e e p

ravi n e s whil e tha t o f t h e e a st o ve rha n gs th e va ll e y o f
,

Mare b N o thi n g c an e xc e e d th e magn ifice n c e o f th e vi e w

.

which thi s p o siti o n c o mman d s I magin e yo urse l f stan din g

.

o n t h e brin k o f t h e pre cipic e : a p e rp e n dicul a r ro ck o f

a bo ut thirty fe e t i s i mme di a t e ly b e n e a th o u whil e b e y o d

y ; n

th e b a se o f thi s t h e surfa c e i s mo re bro k e n an d i n t e rsp e rse d

, ,

with a fe w shrub s a n d so me o f t h e sti ff gro wi n g Eup h o rbi a

,
-
,

fo r a d e pth o f ab o v e a hu n dre d fe e t Th e n ce still de sce n d

.
,
 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XX
.

i ng, in n u me rabl e masse s o f sto n e o f e v e ry s i z e a n d shape,

a n d i n pl a c e s o v e rgro wn with bu sh e s, fo rm a s l o p e , which,

t h o ugh n o t s o st e e p , i s al mo st a s i n a cce ssibl e a s t h e fo rmer,

an d e xt e n d s fr o m th e b as e o f th e so lid cli f f till it l o se s itself
a mo n g t h e u n dul a ti o n s which fo rm t h e upp e r b o un d ar i es of

t h e vall e y o f th e M a re b Gl an ci n g o v e r t h e d a rk green
.

o f t h e u n cultiva t e d but fe rtil e v a ll e y, thro ugh th e m iddl e of

which th e rive r, a s se e n fro m t ha t di s ta n c e , a ppe ars li ke

a wi n di n g silv e r thre a d , th e e ye r e st s fo r a m o m e n t o n the

mo un ta i n o f Me de vai Tab o r ri si n g a bruptly t o t h e right, and

fro m i ts ha p e which 15 s qu a re like a b o x fo rmi n g a stra nge
s , , ,

co n tra st with t h e ro u n d e d o utlin e o f th e gre y hill s o f Se rawi

be yo n d it I n th e e xtre me di stan c e may b e s e e n those
.

’
o f Si myht a a n d D A b b a Ga ri m a b e y o n d Ad o u a , ,

co l o ur a pp e a r like fai n t blu e cl o ud s o n th e h o riz o n tho ugh , ,

fro m th e cl e a rn e ss o f t h e a tmo sph e re th e ir o ut l in e lo ses ,

n o n e o f i t s di sti n ctn e ss e v e n a t so gre a t a di st a n c e .

Th e vill age r e c e iv e d i t s n a me fro m h a vi n g b e e n the

ch o se n r e sid e n ce o f it s p atro n Sa i n t whe n o n e a rth an d the ,

sc e n e o f h i s pri n cip a l mira cl e s O n th e fac e o f t h e ro ck is

.

t h e littl e h o l e wh e re i n h e liv e d it is b are ly high e n o ugh for

a p e rso n t o s qu a t i n ; a n d t h e ma rk s w o rn i n t h e stone

by t h e cro wn o f h is h e a d th e so l e s o f his fe e t a n d his

, ,

e lb o w s a re s till sh o wn
,
H i s mira cl e s we re ma n y
. A mo ng .

o th e rs a l e o p ard a t e up h i s s o n ( I h o p e I a m ri ght i n gi ving

,
’
h im a so n : I d o n t k n o w wh e th e r h i s b e i n g a fa th e r wo uld
p re clud e h i s b e i n g a sa i n t : h o w e ve r it was a y o uth n early ,

re la te d t o h im if I r e me mb e r th e s to ry right) Th e Saint
, .
,

re turn i n g h o me mi sse d h im an d se t o ut i n s e a rch o f him

, ,

Whe n i n th e fo re st h e call e d a l o ud to him thr e e ti me s and ,

a t th e thi rd ti me t h e l e o p a rd a pp e are d : o n se e i n g him ,

t h e Sa i n t gue sse d h o w t h e ma tte r st o o d with t h e u n fo rtunate

yo uth ; but n o thi n g di sc o urage d h e co o lly o rd e red the
, ,

b e a st t o re turn h im safe a n d so un d N o w thi s wa s rather .

di fficult a s th e l e o p ard h a d n o d o ubt ha l f dige st e d him:

,
’
n e ve rth e l e ss so gre a t wa s t h e Sa i n t s p o we r
,
th a t t h e boy ,
’
l e ft th e l e o p ard s maw n o n e t h e wo rs e p e rhaps ra ther the ,

b e tt e r fo r havin g b e e n di sme mb e re d a n d re c o n structed

,
.
16 2
'

IJ F E I N A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . XX .

t re e s, clo se to o ur co mpo u n d ; an d much b e e r an d mead

ha vin g be e n pre par e d b re ad bake d an d an imals go t ready
, ,

fo r sla ugh te r, o n th e day appo i n te d th e gue sts arri ved 11 ,

mo tl e y gr o up o f pri e sts an d sc ribe s so ldie rs an d

,

B y th e way, a
C HA P . x x; ST . MI CH AE L S ’
E VE . 163

e ve n th e n Th e e ve n i n g a t Addy H ari sh o wa s p as se d
.

n e a rly in th e sa me ma n n e r I h a d b e e n o ut o n t h e Ma re b
.

a l l th e m o rn i n g a n d wh e n I a rri ve d l a t e in th e a ft e rn o o n
, , ,

t h e gue s t s h a d b e e n so me ti me a ss e m bl e d O n e n t e rin g t h e .
,

s p o o n y— s e n ti me n t al wa y i n which I w as we lc o me d by a ll

th e p ty a r — me n an d wo me n c o min g fo rwa rd by do z en s t o
e m —
br a ce me wa s a t o n ce a pro o f tha t the y w e re a ll v e ry
dru n k I w en t a n d sa t d o wn by Wa ddy Hil H e sa id
. .

littl e but fro m th e pe culi arly fa ce ti o u s smil e w hich a cc o m

,

p a n i e d w h a t e v e r h e did s a y e v e n w h e n di s cu ss i,
n g t h e m o s t
s e ri o us s ubj e ct s I so o n saw th a t h e wa s but littl e b e tt e r
,

tha n h is n e ighbo ur s A n o ld pri e st c ame up t o me and .

o ffe re d o n th e p a rt o f hi mse l f a n d hi s br e thre n t o p e rfo rm

, , ,

i f I pl e a s e d t h e re ligi o u s d a n c e a n d so n g u s e d by th e m o n
,

such o cca si o n s I n e v e r sha ll fo rge t th e ir ludicro u s e ffo rt s

.

t o a pp e a r gra ce ful a t t h e sa me ti me sta gge ri n g e v e ry s t e p

,

w hil e t h e e xpre ssi o n o f d e v o ti o n th e y a ffe ct e d to a ssu me

was r e d uc e d t o a l an guid smil e a n d thick e n i n g e y e lid s ,

e xpr e ss iv e o f n o thi n g b ut liquo r A hiccup o r t w o o cca .

s i o n a ll y i n t e rfe re d with t h e s o l e mn wo rd s th e y w e r e ch a n ti n g ;

a n d t h e s ta t e ly mo ve me n t s th e y h a d b e gu n with ch an ge d

gra du a lly an d by d e gre e s t h e da n ce b e ca me a r e e l o r rath e r

, ,

re e l i n g mo ve me n t th e wo rd s o n ly which a cc o mp an i e d it
,

re ma i n i n g so le mn A t la st a n o ld pri e st (n o d o ubt lo st in
.

fe rv o ur) sudd e n ly fo rge ttin g t h e o rigi na l cha n t cha n g e d

, ,
’
i t s w o rd s t o th o se o f a j o vi a l dri n ki n g ditty : D o n t yo u “

”
s to p t h e liqu o r a n d I w ill dan c e fo r e ve r !
,
I n st e a d o f t h e
ma rk s o f di sa ppro ba ti o n fro m h i s fe ll o w pri e sts th e y o n ly ,

burs t i n t o a l o ud laugh a n d d e cla rin g t h e e n t e rtain me n t t o

, ,

b e ch a n ge d fo r th e b e tt e r a ll with o n e c o n se n t fo ll o we d h i s
,

e xa mp l e a n d h is tu n e .

Sh o rtly a fte r thi s t h e a mu se me n ts we re div e rsifi e d by a

mo st un d ign ifie d pugili stic e n co un t e r b e twe e n a v e ry sh o r t
an d thick s crib e a n d a l o n g e l e ph an t hu n t e r a mo st s i n gul a r -
,

p a ir fo r a du e l Th e y w. e r e h o w e v e r s o o n se p a ra t e d
,
a n d , ,

th e m a n o f l e tt e rs wh o was t h e a ggre sso r wa s c a rri e d h o m e

, ,

by h i s fri e n d s as p o o r fe ll o w ! h e c o uld n o t wa lk N o t I
, ,
.
,

b e li e v e t ha t h e h a d suffe re d much in t h e fight fo r I sa w h im

, ,

M 2
1 64 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . XX
.

r e ce ive o n ly a fe w sl ap s o n h i s re v e r e n d ch e e k s o n e of ,

w hich th o ugh n o t ad mi n i st e r e d v e ry se v e re ly br o ught h im

, ,

t o t h e gro u n d Stra n ge t o re ma rk th e se o ccurr e n c e s did

.
,

n o t a t a ll s e e m t o di mi n i sh th e r e sp e ct o f t h e p e o pl e fo r th eir

spiritu a l p a st o r s a n d ma st e rs .

A s ma n y o f t h e p a rty c am e fr o m a c o n sid e ra bl e di stan ce ,

t h e fe a s t bro k e up e a rly but i n th e c o urse o f t h e e v e n i ng a

fe w o f t h e i mme dia te n e ighb o urs an d s o m e o f th o se who
, ,

ha vi n g c o me fr o m a dis ta n t pro vi n ce h a d b e e n i n vite d to ,

p ass th e n ight w ith us me t aga i n in t h e spa c e b e t w e e n my

,

hut s a n d tho se o f Wa ddy Hil Our co uch e s a n d m a ts were

.

co ll e cte d an d spre a d o n th e gro un d an d th e pro c e e din gs of

,

t h e a fte rn o o n we re i n p a rt r e c o mme n c e d th o ugh i n a more ,

o rd e rly wa y .

Oh ! i f in En gl a n d w e h a d th e bright wa rm m o o n light ,

n i ght s o f t h e t ro pic s O f a ll thi n gs th a t which I m o s t re gret

i s t h e e n j o y me n t o f sl e e pi n g o ut o f d o o r s i n th o s e l ands
wh e re fo r e ight mo n th s i n t h e y e a r n o t a cl o ud o b scures
, ,

t h e sk y an d wh e re t h e mo o n shi n e s with a ligh t w hich is of

,

a brightn e ss i n fe ri o r o n ly t o tha t which it r e fl e ct s I n .

A fric a w h e n t h e mo o n i s n e a r t h e full yo u c a n r e ad as
, ,

cl e a rly as by da y a n d h o w d e lightful a re t h e e v e n i n gs then

’
p a ss e d e ith e r ro u n d th e bivo u a c s fire i n th e fo r e s t o r n ear
, ,

t h e me rry d a n ci n g p a rty o f t h e y o u n g p e o pl e i n t h e vill age !

B ut t o r e tur n to my n a rra tiv e — Aft e r o ur u n succe ssful
'
m
‘

ur s uit o f t h e B r a fr o A ddy K h a wk h a t I s t a rt e d fo r a
p a e ,

vill age ab o ut thr e e mil e s di sta n t fro m o ur o ld qua rt e rs at

A dd ar o Th e h a ml e t wh e r e we t o o k up o ur re s id e n c e c o n
.

s i st e d o n ly o f thre e c o mp o u n d s o n e o f which h a d b e en
,

c e d e d t o me but fro m th e hut s b e i n g t o ta lly o ut o f re pair

, ,

I h a d to r e build th e m ; a n d th e o the rs b e l o n ge d t o the

fa mily o f A i t o H abl o a fa rme r a n d pr o pri e t o r o f th e l an d
, ,
.

A s a ra th e r curi o u s p o i n t i n t h e a rra n ge me n t o f ma tri mo nial

a ffa ir s i n thi s c o u n t ry I ma m e n ti o n th a t o n e o f th e c o m
, y
p o un d s wa s o ccupi e d by A it o H abl o with a n e w wi fe and
fa mily whil e t h e o th e r wa s th e d we lli n g o f h i s c as t o ff lady
,
-

a n d h e r o ffsp ri n
g .

,
Th e so il th e re was o f a v e ry diffe re n t n a ture an d a ppear
1 66 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XX .

to o much p o we r I he ad e d t h e re mai n d e r o f t h e p arty in

.

an e n d e av o ur t o r e ta rd a s much a s p o ssibl e th e a ppro ach

o f t h e gr e a t c o n flagra t i o n Stripp e d s ta rk n a k e d (with the

.

e xc e pti o n o f a bit o f ski n o r l e a th e r which s o m e o f t h e more ,

mo d e st o f t h e p a rty pick e d up an d w ra pp e d r o u n d their

l o i n s) we ma d e ru sh e s a t th e flame s whe n e v e r a lull o f the
,

wi n d a ll o we d us t o a ppro a ch th e m an d by b e a ti n g them , ,

with t h e b o ugh s in s o me me asure i mp e d e d th e ir pro gress

,

till th e spa c e was cl e a r e d an d th e hut s w e re o ut o f d anger .

O n ce h o w e v e r two o f us we re sa dly n e a r ca tch i n g it I

, , .

a n d o n e o f my se rva n t s h a pp e n e d to ru s h a t t h e fire at an

u n lucky mo me n t ; fo r a bre e z e ri si n g dro v e t h e flames

t o wa rd s us ju st as w e go t n e a r th e m an d w e w e re badly ,

s c o rch e d Th e Abyssi n i a n p o o r fe ll o w ! wa s w e a k ly and

.
, ,

wh a t fro m t h e burn i n g an d a c o ld h e t o o k fr o m d a wdling

,

a b o ut a ft e r thu s h e a tin g hi mse l f h e w as l a id up fo r a long ,

time I go t o ff b e tte r b e i n g o n ly di sable d fro m w earing

.
,

cl o th e s fo r a littl e while a s th e skin o f my right s h o ulder

,

a n d le
g ca m e o f
f i n bli s t e rs a n d t h e h ai r o f t h e right side of
,

my h e a d e y e bro w e ye l a sh a n d mo u sta ch e wa s s i n ge d ofl
, , ,

Th e w o rst p a rt o f my su ffe rin gs wa s t h e i n jury o f t h e o ptic

n e rv e o f my ri ght e ye fro m which I ha ve n e v e r re c o ve red
, ,

an d w h a m
hich s t o ta lly sp o ilt y e sh o t g a l o s s much
ri fl o i n — -

fe lt by me a s it w a s a b o ut t h e o n ly thi n g in t h e w o rld I
,

c o uld do we ll F o rme rly I man age d o cca si o n a lly t o shoot

.

fro m my l e ft sh o uld e r— a h a bit which I fo u n d u se ful in

s t a lki n g a s i n so m e p o siti o n s yo u mu st n e c e ss a rily e xp ose
,

yo u rse l f b e fo re yo u ca n b ri n g yo ur right sho uld e r fo rward .

N o w tha t I a m o blige d t o tru st t o my l e ft a l o n e I fin d it s ,

ve ry p o o r sub stitut e fo r th e right an d a lt o ge th e r use l e ss for ,

ru n n i n g sho t s .

Thi s a ccid e n t a n d t h e l o ss o f a go o d d e a l o f stan ding

,

c o r n we re th e amo un t o f o ur c a su a lti e s A h am l e t n e ar us
, .

su ffe re d c o n sid e ra bly mo re : n o t o n ly th e cro p s but several ,

d e ta ch e d h o u se s we re e n tire ly d e stro ye d a n d tw o me n and

, ,

a child l o st th e ir live s Th e re ma i n d e r o f t h e vill age was

.

with d i ffi culty sav e d ; a n d ye t I c o uld n o t u n d e r stan d how

it wa s the y did n o t run fo r it as th e flame s n e ve r en tirely ,
C H A P XX . . A TTE M P T TO B L O W UP A TO WI V . 167

s urro u n d e d th e m as th e y did us but I fa n cy the y h ad a much

sm a ll e r pr o p o rti o n o f me n t o th e siz e o f t h e villag e th a n we
’

h a d fo r we mu st e re d ve ry stro n g
,
— a ll my se rv a n t s a n d

s e ve ra l fri e n ds luckily b e i n g with me a t t h e time .

Whe n th e da n ge r was p a st an d we h a d time t o l o o k ab o ut

,

us t h e r e tre a t o f t h e flame s was a mo st magn ific e n t sight

, ,

a l mo s t re p a yin g t h e dan ge r an d tro ubl e t h e y h a d ca u sed us .

B e l o w was t h e blacke n e d fo r e gro u n d b o u n d e d by a vast ,

li n e o f fire which marche d o n like an a rmy cl e a ri n g e ve ry

, ,

thin g b e fo r e i t thro win g up o ccasi o n a lly a s it we re , ,

s ta n d a rd s o f fl ame blu e re d o r y e ll o w
, whil e as i f t o giv e
, , ,

e ffe ct t o th e wh o l e by puttin g it i n re li e f t h e smo k e ca u se d ,

t h e sk y n a tura lly t o o bright t o a ssu me a da rk purpl e h ue

, ,

fo r s o me di stan c e a b o v e t h e h o riz o n I ha v e witn e sse d .

m an y h o rribly gran d sp e cta cl e s o f thi s n a ture : o f all I c o n ,

s id e r t h i s t o b e t h e o n e which p a rt o o k mo st o f t h e gra n d .

A s fo r t h e h o rribl e I k n o w o f n o n e mo re s o th an t h e
,

a tt e m pt by a d e sp e ra d o t o bl o w up t h e wh o l e o f a t o wn

w h e re I was livi n g a t t h e ti m e an d th e p o pul a ti o n o f which

, ,

in cludi n g th e ga rri so n a mo u n t e d to so me thirty o r fo rty

,

t h o u sa n d so ul s Thi s h a pp e n e d ab o ut thre e y e a rs afte r th e

.

ti m e o f w hich I a m n o w writi n g a t Kh a rt o u m th e ca pit al , ,

o f th e Egypti an pro vi n c e s o f So ud a n .

D u rin g my s ta y a t To kh uli mn y I ma d e se v e ra l e xcursi o n s

i n t h e n e ighb o urh o o d an d did a go o d d e a l in th e vi siti n g
,

li n e h a vi n g ma n y fa shi o n a bl e a cqu a i n tan c e s A it o Me rra t ch

, .

a l so p a id me fre qu e n t vi sit s u su ally a cc o mp an i e d by an

,

,
—
idi o t n a me d Magh o vai a p o o r fe ll o w wh o m h e to o k ab o ut
,

w ith h i m as an o cc a si o n a l so urc e o f a mu s e me n t Me rra t ch .

tr e a t e d h im mo re ki n dly tha n mo st o f t h e p e o pl e a n d h e ,

a pp e a r e d much a tta ch e d t o h im Th e b o ys o f t h e n e igh

.

b o urh o o d u se d t o pl a gu e h im t e rribly ; an d th o ugh u su a lly ,

qui e t a t time s h e wo uld ge t ve ry ma d a n d mi schi e v o u s I

,
.

re m e m be r hi s o n ce makin g a fu ri o u s cha rge a t my fa vo u rit e

m ul e with a l an c e which h e h a d pick e d up fro m o n e o f t h e
,

p e o pl e an d h e wo uld n o d o ubt ha v e kill e d h e r h a d h e n o t

,

b e e n di sa rme d which in d e e d was e ffe cte d with so me di ffi

culty H is t o n gu e h o we ve r wa s mo r e o fte n mi schi e v o u s
.
, ,
168 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XX
.

tha n h is han ds H is
u sua l pra ctice o n e n te ri n g a h o u se was
.

t o go to t h e w o me n an d frighte n th e m till th e y l e n t h im a
wate r pip e with a pro p e r supply o f t o ba cc o fire & c
-
,
Wh en , , .

it was a ll n ice ly a rran ge d h e wo uld tak e it a n d s itti n g down

, ,

fo r a mo me n t smo ke it qui e tly : t he n sudd e n ly s t ar ti n g up ,

e ith e r i n re a l o r w e ll a ssume d rage -

d e lib e ra te ly s ma sh it to ,

a t o ms a n d c o mme n ce i n sulti n g an d a bu s in g t h e wo men

,

mo st gro ssly fo r ha vin g o fle re d him so fra gil e a n art icl e Thi s

'

wa s wha t Me rratc h e n j o ye d B ut h i s gre a t fo rt e was

.

sl a n d e ri n g th e ch a ra ct e r o f a l l t h e la d i e s o f t h e n e ighbou r

h o o d B e fo re Me rra tc h h e wo uld particul a rly a bu se the

.

wi fe o f h is rival Gabro Wa h e d : the n h e w o uld w a n d e r on

,

t o th e fra ilti e s o f a ll th e o th e r l a di e s ge n e ra lly ma ki n g them ,

o ut t o b e i n l o v e with h im a n d sa yi n g h o w o n e p ra i se d his
,

e y e s an o th e r h i s t e e th
,
an d s o o n ; a n d ,
o ft e n fo rge tting ,

himse lf h e wo uld a dd t h e n a me o f Me rra tch s l a dy t o the

,
’

li st
.

H a vi n g o b se r ve d tha t hi s pa ro xysms i n cre a se d a cc o rding

as h e h a d b e e n b a it e d by t h e b o y s o r l a ugh e d a t by the

me n I th o ught th a t with pro p e r man age me n t h e m ight be

,

much i mpro v e d so I b e gge d Me rra t c h t o le t m e h a ve him

fo r a whil e sa yi n g tha t I w o uld try t o cure h im
, H e con .

s e n t e d gl a dly a n d I t o o k h i m
,
I n a sh o rt ti m e h e grew .

v e ry fo n d o f me an d c o uld sca rc e ly b e i n duce d t o l e a ve me

, .

I fo rba d e a n y o n e t o la ugh a t h im o r to sp ea k t o h i m o ther ,

wi se th an t o a s e n sibl e p e rso n E ve n wh e n h e m a d e any .

a b s urd mi s ta k e s i n th e littl e j o b s I se t h i m t o d o I pu n i she d ,

se v e re ly a n y o f t h e p e o pl e wh o might ha pp e n t o titt e r The .

first p o i n t I gai n e d wa s to i n duc e h im to we a r cl o th e s This

I man age d by fl atte ri n g h i s p e rso n a l app e ara n c e —
.

a po i n t ,

wh e re i n lik e mo st o f h i s c o u n tryme n h e wa s v e ry susc e p

, ,

ti b l e Th e n I taught h im t o h o ld a go urd fo r m e to wash

.

my han d s i n ; a ft e rwa rd s t o a cco mpa n y me a n d c a rry game ;

till b e fo re l e a vi n g me h e be ca me quite st e a dy an d to le rably
, ,

re as o n abl e ; an d I o ft e n fo r t h e sak e o f tryin g h im se nt

,

—
,

h i m o n e ra n d s
r as fo r e xa mpl e to ch an g e a d o ll a r for
, , ,

cl o th H e ma n age d the se v e ry we ll : th e o n ly p e culiarity

.

h e e xhibit e d wa s th at o f b e i n g ab surdly p articul ar ne ver ,

17o LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . XX .

mo re i y a sse mbla ge was n e ve r me t wi th M e rra t ch him

no s .

se l f e vid e n tly kn e w a b o ut a s much o f wo o dcraft a s a pig does

o f n a viga ti o n ; an d I fo re sa w th a t th o ugh we m ight have,

go o d fun as a picn ic p a rty we sho uld s e e b ut little real

,

sp o rt . Th e day a ft e r o ur a rriva l w as sp e n t i n l o o k in g out

fo r sign s Man y trac e s o f bu ffa lo we r e lighte d up o n an d it
.
,

was d e t e rmin e d th a t we s h o uld fo ll o w the m up n e xt day .

A cc o rdi n gly we h a d a go o d supp e r a n d di s p o s e d o urse lves

,

fo r p as si n g th e n ight Th e p e o pl e a ll lay i n a c i rcle the

.
,

sp a c e i n t h e c e n tre o f wh ich was o ccupi e d b y M e rratch ,

my se l f H ab t o Ge o rgi s (h i s chi e f c o un cill o r) an d my prin

, ,

c i pal se rvan t sai d A bo ut mid n ight a littl e b o y g o t up and

.

l e ft t h e ca mp e ith e r to fe tch wate r o r fo r s o me o th e r pur

,

p o se an d o n h i s re turn was a tta cke d furi o u s ly b y th e dogs

,

hich h l trib h a d fo ll o w e d us) T h ri h

( o f w a w o e e e c e s o.f t e

la d a n d t h e ba rki ng o f th e d o gs awo k e th e pa rt y w h o having , ,

b e fo re turn in g i n se e n th e fire s o f th e Ba r e a o n t h e hi lls

o pp o sit e t o us i mme di a t e ly c o n clud e d t h a t t h e d i s t urb ance
,

wa s ca u s e d by an a tt ack fro m th e m A m agn i fic e n t scene

.

e n su e d .Th e me n h ad la id th e mse lve s d o wn a s i s usual , ,

with th e ir we ap o n s n e a r th e ir h a n d s an d th e ir s hi e lds for

,

pill o ws an d n o w in th e da rk an d hurry gr e a t c o n fusion

, ,

t o o k pla ce in th e e n d e a v o ur t o fin d o ut t h e right ful o wners

O f th e se a rticl e s Tw o me n n e a r me go t h o ld o f o n e lance
.
,

o n e h a vi n g ta k e n it by th e sh a ft an d t h e o th e r by t h e head
,
.

U n luckily fo r th e fi n g e rs o f t h e l a tte r it h a pp e n e d t ha t the

,

di sput e d we ap o n was o n e o f th e bro ad fla t sh a rp e dged , ,

-

kin d ca ll e d he llas
,
a n d a s b o th p a rti e s pull e d furi o u
, sly ,
a

h i s h an d s w e re i n c o n se qu e n c e sadly l a c e ra t e d Se ve n of .

t h e e l e v e n gu n n e rs h a d ma tchl o ck s a n d th e y w e re busy ,

bl o wi n g th e ir ma tche s which a t such a mo m e n t with the

, ,

u su a l luck o f p e rso n s i n a gre a t hurry the y o f c o urs e could ,

n o t i n duc e t o ig n ite Th e re ma i n d e r o f t h e me n h aving

.
,

a rme d th e ms e lv e s w e r e tryi n g t o ge t up a littl e c o urage by

, ,

sta mpi n g a b o ut an d s cre a mi n g o ut th e ir wa r cri e s Poor -

.

A it o Me rra tc h was c o mpl e t e ly o v e rc o me Tre m bl in g from

—
.

h e a d t o fo o t h e b e to o k himse l f t o s p y r
,
h i ra e s a mo st com ,

fo rti n g r e s o urc e d o ubtl e ss i n al l ti me s o f d a n ge r an d trial ,

C HA P . XX
. TH E H UN 7 17 1

b ut ra th e r o ut o f pla ce wh e n h is e xampl e a n d pre se n ce we re

re quire d fo r a cti o n I co uld he a r h i m re p ea t t h e C re e d
.

h n i a n ritu a l ) a n d a gre a t ma n y o th e r
( a cc o rdi n g t o t e A by s s i ,

fo rm ul ae ; but th o ugh b e c o n ti n u a lly pra y e d t o spiritu a lly

o v e rthr o w t h e D e vil y e t h e ,
s e e me d t o h a v e v e ry littl e

in cli n a ti o n t o a tt e mpt th e o ve rthro w o f th e d e vil s in ca rn a te

wh o m h e i magi n e d t o b e o n th e p o i n t o f butch e ri n g th e
wh o l e p a rty Sh o rtly aft e r th e ca u se o f di sturb a n c e b e i n g
.
,

cl ea re d up thin gs we re re st o re d to th e ir fo rme r tran quillity

, ,

but n o t u n til th e p o o r b o y h a d re ce ive d a go o d thra shi n g ,

a n d o n e o r t wo o f th e w a rri o rs h a d v e n t e d th e ir rag e o n

se v e ral o f t h e fa i t hful d o gs by sp e a rin g th e m .

N e xt d ay w e sta rte d t o fo ll o w th e tra il but it wa s n o t till ,

th e aft e rn o o n th a t we ma d e a n y e n c o uragi n g di sc o v e ri e s in
’
th e hu n ti n g li n e A b o ut thre e o cl o ck h o we ve r a h o rse ma n
.
, ,

wh o h a d b e e n a h e a d bro ught us th e we lc o me n e ws tha t h e

h a d s e e n buffal o e s n o t far o ff Aft e r so me c o n sulta ti o n it
.

was a rra n ge d th a t p a rti e s with t h e gu n n e rs sh o uld sta ti o n

the mse lve s in th e di ffe re n t d e h l e s whe re th e y we re m o s t
lik e ly t o pass a n d th e re ma in d e r with th e h o rse me n e n
, , ,

d e a v o ur t o he a d th e m a n d driv e th e m to wa rd s us A cc o rd
, .

i n gly I a n d s e v e ra l o th e r s to o k o ur p o s iti o n i n th e mo st
l ike ly pla c e a n d awa ite d th e ir co mi n g with so me a n xi e ty
, .

’
A ft e r n ea rly ha l f a n h o ur s p a ti e n c e we we re o n t h e p o i n t o f
,

d e cidi n g tha t t h e pro j e ct h a d fa ile d wh e n a di stan t s o u n d,

w as h eard a s o f a s qu adro n o f h o rse a rtill e ry ch a rgi n g a n d ,

pre se n tly pa rt o f th e h e rd pa sse d cl o se to whe re we we re

c o n cea l e d N o t a l an c e wa s thro wn by an y o n e o f th e
.

sp e a rmen all a pp e a r e d a n xi o u s t o ge t as much o ut o f t h e

w ay as po ss ibl e Out o f six gun s th e e xpl o si o n o f t wo huge

.
,

e l e ph an t ma tchl o ck s o n ly wa s h e a rd fo r th e y e n tire ly dro wn e d

,

t h e p alt ry cra ck o f an o u n c e rifl e which pl ay e d th e m a t e n o r

a cc o mp an ime n t Two bull s fe ll ; an d e a ch o f th e A bys si n i an s
.

wh o h a d fire d ru sh e d fo rward t o cl a i m h i s Th e huge .

an i ma l s we re with so me di f fi culty kill e d a s n e ith e r o f th e m

,

had b e e n dro pp e d c o ld a n d it wa s n o t till thi s bu si n e ss

was o ve r tha t t o th e c o n fu si o n o f o n e o f t h e wo uld b e suc

,
-

c e ssful h u n t e rs I tha n k e d him fo r th e a ssi stan ce h e h ad

,
17 : LIF E IN A B YS S I N I A . Can . xx

ren d ered me , an d pro m is e d him if h e wo uld also

a re ward

h e lp me in flaying an d cuttin g up the an ima l we had just

su cc e ed e d in mas te ri n g Th e ma n s ta re d
. I o n ly answered
.

hi m by po i n ti n g t o t h e wo u n d Th e b all was s o o n extracted.

.

an d pro v e d to b e an o go o d so ft lead ins

un ce of ,

in ch and a hal f o f i ron b a r with whi ch the f

’
the ir pi e ces The hu n t er s gl o ry was take n do wn
. a
a “

B
 LI F E I N A B YS S I N I A . Cm . xx

turn e d ab o ut t oo ; o r ra the r ( as he af e rwa rd s assure d

t us) it
was h is ho rse that will e d it thus n o t h e H o we ver he
, .
,

g a ll o p e d a wa y w ith o ut e v e n di s ch a rgi n g hi s p i s to l fo r t he ,

t u rn h e mad e was so sudd e n tha t h e with d iffic ul ty ke pt hn

'

se a t . F o rtu n at e ly h e man age d to stic k o n ; fo r had he

co me t o th e ro un d th e o dd s wo uld h ave b e e n ra t he r against
g
h is e ve r ge t t i n g up agai n u n le ss p e rha p s as s i s t e d b y the
,

ho rn s o f hi s fe male assa ilan t .

O n e man o n foo t h ad man age d to ca tc h a l itt l e calf only ,

thre e o r fo ur days o ld which whe n th e he rd wa s firs t started.

, ,

h ad run o n ly a fe w pa c e s an d th e n sto o d quit e sti ll

, He .

d ragge d it o n to wards th e sp o t whe re we we r e st an ding in ,

o r de r tha t h i s chi e f might ha v e th e gl o ry o f killi n g it Be it .

kn o wn t ha t th e killin g o f a buffal o co un t s i n A byssinia as

e qu a l in me rit to killi n g t we n ty me n ; a n d o n thi s accou nt

a l mo s t e ve ry gre a t man an d o ft e n e ve n h i s c h i ldre n can

, ,

c o u n t a go o d ma n y as it o nl y re quire s th a t th e y s h o uld he
,

t he firs t t o wo u n d t h e an i mal h o we ve r slightly w hich they , ,

ge n e rally do wi t h a gun o r a light jav an thr o wn from a

fl
di st an ce ; an d t h e n it ma tte rs little wh o r e a lly ki ll s it the ,

c re d it be i n g a lways a ttri bute d to h im wh o first d ra ws blood .

On thi s o ccasi o n ho we ve r th e gl o ry o f s l a yi n g th e little

, ,
’
ca l f whil e it was suckin g i ts capto r s thu mb an d then
, ,

bo a stin g as if h e h ad kill e d a sco re o f wa rri o rs was not ,

d e sti n e d fo r Me rratch A so ldi e r wh o pro ba bly had his

.
,

laure l s ye t t o gai n an d wi she d t o pro cure th e m w ith as little

,

tro u b l e a s p o ssi b le madd e ne d by th e sight o f so gl o rious a

,

cha n c e ru sh e d up an d d ro v e h is lan ce i n to t h e u n fo rtunate

,

littl e victi m o f hu man va n ity .

Me rra tch h app e n e d t o co me up sh o rtly aft e r thi s de ed of

val o ur h ad be e n pe rfo rmed an d j o i n e d with t h e o the r man
,

in a bu si n g t h e so ldi e r till I fe a re d l e st th e y might se rve him

,

as h e h a d tre a t e d th e a n i ma l but a s i s u su al with s quabbles

,

i n thi s c o un try it e n d e d i n th e use le ss e xp e n diture o fa grel t

,

man y h ard wo rd s .

D u ri n g th e n e xt day we saw so me gi raffe an d e l e phants at

a d i s ta n c e but fail e d i n o ur a tt e mpt s t o ge t n ea r th e m A
, .

g n u,
t w o o f t h e a n t e l o p e s h e r e c a l l e d t o ra
(h ar t e b e es te i5 1
C HA P . xx . D EPAR TURE F OR Z D O UA . 17 5

I be li e v e th e C ap e n ame ) an d so me small e r game we re all

, , ,

t h a t w e kille d .

Thu s e n d e d th e o n ly gre a t hu n t I e ve r saw in Abyssi n i a

an d I m a s
y y a th a t it turn e d o ut a s I a n ticip a t e d — gr e a t fun ,

b ut v e ry p o o r sp o rt O n o ur re turn t o A dd aro mo st o f
.

t h e p a rty go t tip sy a t Me rra t c h s e xp e n se : a n d th e n e ve ry

’

m a n b e to o k hi mse lf t o h i s o wn habita ti o n I r e ma in e d
.

i n th e n e ighb o urh o o d fo r so me time an d th e n by sl o w, ,

d e gre e s ma d e fo r Ad o ua re mai n i n g a we e k o r two with

, ,

e a c h o f my fri e n d s a t Mai Q uo llaw A gh a b sa ra i an d o th e r

, ,

l a ces N o thi n g o ut o f th e c o mmo n o ccu rr e d duri n g tha t

p .

r i o d e xc e pt a fe w v e ry u n i n t e re sti n g fight s a b o ut cutti n g

p e ,

a s s an d o th e r a b surditi e s with t h e i n h a bita n t s o f so me

g r , ,

o f t h e vi ll age s we p ass e d i n o n e o f which I go t my skull

,

c ra c k e d a n d o n e o f my v e rt e brae k n o ck e d o ut o f it s pro p e r
,

l a c e b y a club till I a rriv e d a t D e vra Si n a a m o u n ta i n

p , ,

n e a r t h e ca pita l in so me hut s n e a r th e fo o t o f which I

,

re m a i n e d till th e ra i n y se a so n se t i n .
 LI F E IN AB YSSINIA . C HA P . XXL

C H A PTE R XX I .

Mot h/ es for v i si ti ng A ( My
T/ee B ideles 215 0 Th e B a r ea Oubi : lad
”

ca mpa ign aga i n s t flee B a rea — F a i l ure of i ii : Aplea N eg om a nd other

—
-

( I: af t —S uper i o r i ty ( y a : B a rea as w a rr io rs A da m Ch a un y A5 —

IN a ch apt e r I sta te d th e p ri n cip a l m o tiv e s which led

fo rme r
me t o turn my fo o t st e p s n o rthward a n d vi s it t h e ma ligned ,

a n d littl e fre qu e n t e d pro vi n c e o f A ddy Ab o i n s te ad of ,

fo ll o wi n g t h e u su a l b ut ra th e r hack n e ye d ca ra v a n ro ute to
,

G o n da r I say ha ck n e ye d b e ca u se fro m t h e ti m e o f the

.
,

P o rtugu e se mi s si o n a ri e s t o th e pre se n t d a y e v e ry traveller

wh o h a s vi site d thi s p a rt o f E thi o pia h a s ta k e n it as his
ro ut e a n d d e scribe d it i n h i s j o urn a l It will b e r e m e mb ered .

th at o n e o f my mo tive s wa s t o vi sit i f p o ss ibl e o r at any , ,

rate t o o btai n s o me i n fo rmati o n c o n c e r n i n g t h e p eople

ca ll e d Sha n ga ll a o r B a re a wh o se d e pre d a t o ry i n cursions
,

o n R o h a b a i ta h a v e fre qu e n tly b e e n me n ti o n e d i n th e last

fe w ch a pt e rs .

I h a d a s I th o ught a rran ge d a ve ry n e a t pl a n o f passing

, ,

fro m R o ha b a i ta n o rth e a st wa rd t o th e s e m i i n d e p e ndent

,
-
,
-

pro v i n c e s o f D e mb e las a n d To kh o ul an d re s idi n g o n their ,

fro n ti e r till I c o uld ma k e fri e n d s with so me o f t h e B ideles .

Th e s e a re a p e o pl e wh o s e c o u n try li e s t o t h e e a s t o f the
B are a a n d n o rth o f D e mb e las a n d wh o re s e m bl e t h e fo rmer
,

i n th e ir h a bits The y a re fr e qu e n tly a t wa r with o n e or

.

b o th o f th e ir n e ighbo urs whil e a t o th e r ti m e s t hey are

,

p e ace ful an d fre qu e n t t h e ma rk e t s o f b o th c o u n t ri e s

, .

I sh o uld h ave fo u n d me an s o f e n te ri n g th e ir t e rritory ,

a n d a ft e r m a ki n g th e ir a cqu a i n t an c e h a v e p a s se d p eaceably
, ,

with th e ir re c o mme n da ti o n i n t o th a t o f th e B a re a B ut fate .

d e cid e d it o th e rwi s e fo r ju st a s all my pl an s we re matured

,
178 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXI .

o f so me o f the ir t o wn s vi llage s an d a fe w mo re hom

an d ,

a n A byssi n i an wh o h a d b e e n ca pture d b y t h e m an d con

t ri v e d t o e sca p e ; th e y amo un t a lt o ge t h e r t o t hirty in

n umb e r .B ut b e yo n d thi s li st an d a fe w o th e r t ri fle s re lating
t o th e ir c o stu me fo o d & c n e ith e r o f th e m e n was able to
, , .
,

assi s t me m uch Th e Ba re a fro m o ur i gn o ra n ce o f his

.
,

lan guage c o uld n o t b e ma d e to un d e rstan d an yth in g ab out

,

di sta n ce s o r th e dire cti o n o f pla ce s ; an d t h e A b yssinian,

wh e n ca p t ure d did n o t k n o w th e way h e h a d go n e n o r that
, ,

by which h e re turn e d an d all h e co uld t e l l a s re garded

,

di sta n ce s was tha t h e h a d b e e n take n t o a t o wn en ded

Sh e lfa wh o s e chi e f was n ame d A mmo u ; th a t h e h a d e scaped
,

th e n c e an d re turn e d t o h is h o me at Amba A b rah a m (in the .

so uth e rn p a rt o f Walkai t) in twe lv e d ays I jud ge from .

’
thi s tha t t h e pla ce may ha ve be e n e ight d a ys j o urn ey or ,

1 6 0 m il e s fo r d o ubtl e ss h e l o s t a third o f t h e ti m e h e took

,

fro m b e i n g o blige d t o ke e p o ut o f sight an d fro m i gn o ra nce

o f t h e ro a d H e t o l d me that h e h ad fo ll o we d a so uth by
.
-

we st e rly dire cti o n i n h i s flight .

A s fo r th e dre ss o f th e B a re a it c o n si sts so l e ly o f a small

,

cl o th wra pp e d ro un d th e b o dy n o t mo re th a n a t hird the ,

”
siz e o f th e A by ssi n i a n qua rry ; i n fact n e a rly re se mbling ,

tha t o f th e p o o re r Sh o h o s an d A ra b s o f th e c o as t b o th in ,

re ga rd t o sh ap e an d si z e an d th e fa shi o n o f we a ri n g it .

Th e ir a rms are th e sa me a s th o se o f th e ir n e ighbo urs oi

Taka an d th e N ubi an A ra b s i n ge n e ra l c o n si s ti n g of a ,

shi e ld t wo e dge d swo rd an d sp e a r with a di ffe re n c e in the

,
-
, ,

sh a p e o f t h e shi e ld which i n st e a d o f b e i n g l o n g and

, ,

p o i n t e d at b o th e n d s l ik e tho se o f Se n n aa r i s smal l and

, ,

ro u n d with a b o ss fo r th e han d like th o se o f th e coast

, ,

trib e s
.

Th e swo rd s are o f Eu ro p e an man u fa cture mo st ly Ge rman , ,

a n d so m e o f v e ry an ci e n t d a t e th o ugh e ve n n o w a days ,
- -

m a n y are ma d e i n Euro p e a n d sen t o ve r t o Egypt to be

so ld t o t h e ca ra v an s c o mi n g fro m th e di ffe r e n t p a rt s o f the

i n t e ri o r Th e y are l o n g bro ad an d two e dge d The re are

.
, ,
-
.

v ari o us p atte rn s o f th e m s o me with a sin gl e b ro a d groove

,

d o wn th e who l e l en gth o f th e bla d e o th e with three ,

C HA P . XXI . AR MS OF TH E B A RE A . 179

s ma ll gro o ve s re achi n g o n ly a fe w i n ch e s an d th e re main d e r ,

p l a i n ; o th e r s a g a i n a re p e rfe ctly pl a i n e xc e pt s o me sm a ll ,

d e vi ce which i s rud e ly e n gra v e d o n th e m .

Th e first o f th e se three p a tte rn s i s ca ll e d Magh re b y

o r M o o ri sh (lit e ral ly we st e rn an d i s u su a lly o rn a me n t e d
) ,

with a sun mo o n o r s ta rs e n gra ve d o n th e bl a d e

, ,
Th e .

se co n d i s mo st e s t e e me d a n d i s ca ll e d D o ukwo urry
,
a li o n

p assan t i s ge n e rally th e d e vic e o f thi s pa tt e rn The y te ll in

A byssin i a o f o n e tak e n fro m th e B a re a o r S e n n ari s ( I fo rge t
which) wh o se p o i n t can b e b e n t ro u n d i n a circl e so a s
t o p ass th e h ilt by a go o d d e a l : an d an o th e r i s said t o b e in
t h e p o sse ssi o n o f th e Sulta n o f D a rfur which h e c a n wi n d ,

up like t h e main spri n g o f a watch an d by me an s o f a

-
,

ca tc h , ke e p it in tha t fo rm ti ll h e may re quire t o use it ,

w h e n to uchi n g a spri n g it fli e s o ut s traight with a so un d

, ,

l i ke a s ilve r b e ll ‘
. Th e truth o f thi s sto ry I do n o t vo uch
fo r ; I o n ly re la t e it t o sh o w wha t are c o n sid e re d p o i n t s “

i n a swo rd by t h e Ba re a Ara b s & c i n c o n tradi sti n cti o n t o

, , .
,

t h e A byssi n i a n s .

Th e blad e o f a two e dge d swo rd such a s we are d e sc ribi n g

-

s h o uld b e ab o ut a yard l o n g thre e fin ge rs bro ad bright

, ,

w ith o ut l o o ki n g n e w an d as pli a n t a s p o s sibl e pro vid e d th a t

, ,

it re tu rn p e rfe ctly str:t igh t F o r such a o n e th e Arab s wo uld

.

g iv e a n ythi n g t h,e A by s si n i an s n o thin g .

Th e se swo rd s a re mo u n t e d with cro ss ha n dl e s lik e th o se ,

o f t h e C ru sad e rs ; an d wh o k n o ws but t h e fa shi o n may h a ve

b e e n i n tro duce d i n to th e Ea st by th e m P Th e A rab s o fte n

o rn a me n t th e m v e ry han d so me ly w ith re d l e a th e r sh e a th s ,

s titch e d with gr e e n an d ma ssiv e silv e r pl a t e s an d k n o b s o n

,

t h e h a n dl e s with ri n gs o f t h e sa me me ta l fo r th e stra p s
,

b y wh ich t he y are ca rri e d .

Th ese las t wo rd s re quire so me e xpl an a ti o n : th e fa ct is ,

tha t thi s ki n d o f swo rd i s n e ve r su sp e n d e d e ith e r by slin gs

o r fro gs as with us n o r ye t wo rn buckl e d t o t h e wa i st a s i n
, ,

A b y ss in i a but i s ca rri e d by me an s o f a si n gl e sh o rt stra p

,

A To le d o b lade o f n e a rly as gre a t fle x ib i l i ty was, I b e l i e v e , sh o w n

a t t h e G rea t E xhi b i t i o n .
1 80 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P XXI . .

fixe d a t ch e xtre mity t o th e swo rd ri n gs t hro ugh which

ea ,

th e l e ft arm i s p as se d so th a t th e
,
swo rd h a n gs u n der

t h e arm e ith e r fro m th e sh o uld e r o r fro m t h e e lb o w as

,

t h e we a re r ch o o se s th o ugh th e fo rme r i s m o s t u sually

,

a d o pt e d .

I h a ve s e e n se v e ra l o f th e se swo rd s with A ra bic a n d even

E thi o pic i n scripti o n s o n th e bl ad e an d ha v e h e a rd o f o ne ,

b e l o n gi n g t o so me pri n ce a t Go n da r which w a s bl e ssed

by th e P o p e a n d se n t by h im t o a fo rme r E m p e ro r and ,

which b e a rs a n i n scripti o n t o th a t e ffe ct i n La tin as we ll as

i n A rabic a n d E thi o pic Th e A byssi n ian chi e fs h a d for
.

m e rly a n u mb e r o f th e se we a p o n s ca rri e d b e fo re the m in

sc arl e t cl o th b ag s o n s ta t e o cca s i o n s ; but thi s cu s to m is

n o w g e tti n g t o b e c o n s id e re d o ld fa shi o n e d a t an y ra te in
-
,

Tigre wh e re it i s se ld o m practise d
, .

I n r e ga rd t o t h e re li gi o n o f th e B are a t h e A by ssi n ians , ,

fo r th e mo st p a rt a sse rt th e m t o b e P aga n s
,
Thi s I have .

re a so n fo r d o ubti n g ; th e y pra cti se circu mci s i o n a n d many ,

o f th e m a re c a ll e d by Mu ssul ma n n a me s ; h e n c e I shou ld
fa n cy th at th e y a re pro b ably in o rigi n ha lf c o n v e rt e d M o ham -

me dan s wh o kn o w n o thi n g wha te ve r o f th e t e n e ts o f the

,

fa ith th e y pro fe ss .

Th e y c ultiva t e th e d o kh o n (h o lcu s do ckn a P) i n c o mmon

with man y o f th e m o re w e st e rly trib e s in t h e sa m e l a titude ;
t h e T igrea n s wh o do n o t gro w thi s c o m l o o k up o n it as a
, ,

so rt o f curi o sity an d c a ll it n a i B a re a da gh o ush a

”
, o r the ,
’
sl a v e s da gh o ush a Th e Abyssi n ia n s giv e v e ry e xa gge rated
.

a cc o un t s o f th e a n ima l fo o d u s e d by thi s p e o pl e asserting ,

th a t sn ak e s ra ts a n d liz a rd s a re th e ir fa v o urit e m e a ts but

, , ,

fro m thi s I o n ly c o n clud e still mo re stro n gly th a t t h e Barea

do n o t o bj e ct t o e a t ma n y thi n g s c o mmo n ly u se d by the
’
n e ighbo u ri n g M o h a mme d an t rib e s such a s ca m e l s flesh , ,

l o cu sts & c but which a re l o o ke d up o n a s v e ry u n clean by

,
.
,

th e A by ssi n i an C hri sti a n s I n fact th o ugh t h e M o slem

.
,

re ligi o n in te rdict s th e use o f c e rta i n a n ima l s a s fo o d there ,

a re ma n y o f t h e mo r e ign o ra n t trib e s o f t h e fa r sou th

o f N ubi a wh o h a v e n o scrupl e s a b o ut p a rt a ki n g o f th e m .

Th e B ar e a a re ve ry bra v e stro n g a ctive a n d ha rdy and

, , , ,
182 LIFE IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXI .

fo u n d wi th an y o f th e m, n o r did the y app ea r t o c o n sider

t ha t a t a ll as a n e c e ssa ry a cco mpan ime n t t o a gun N o twith .

s ta n di n g a ll th e se d e fici e n ci es i n t h e a rt o f wa rfar e , o n e of

the se savage s in ge n e ral pro ve s mo re than a ma tch fo r two

o rdi n a ry A by ssi n i a n s . To sum all I might sa y th a t the ,

B aza are in ma n n e rs an d cu sto ms n o t u n l i k e s o m e o f the

wi ld e r N ubi an trib e s o n ly a bo ut thr e e o r fo ur c e n turies
,

b e hin d the m in civi lisati o n .

I sh a ll n o w a dd a sho rt sk e tch o f th e l as t cam p aign made

by Oubi agai n st th e m .

Th e pri n ce l e ft h i s ca mp a t H o wz ayn i n th e m o n th of
H e dar o r Octo b e r 1 8 44 th e ra i n y seaso n b e in g th e n com
, ,

l t l t e rm i t e d a n d pro c e e di n g to Ad o u a e n ca m ped on
p e e y n a , ,

t h e pl a i n s o f Mai de laty di stan t ab o ut a mil e an d a h a l f from

,

t h e c a pita l . H e r e h e r e mai n e d fo r a fo rtn ight whe n he ,

aga i n pro c e e d e d n o rthwa rd a n d p a ssi n g by A xu m a n d the

,

Sh i réro a d t o A d dyab o cro s se d t h e fro n ti e r a n d a ft e r some

, , ,
’
days ma rch thro ugh t h e u n in habite d n e utra l gro u n d en ,
’
camp e d i n th e e n emy s co u n try to re st h i s tro o p s Th e camp .

’
was fo rme d i n two divi si o n s Pri n c e Shet o u Oub i s second , ,

s o n h avi n g pitch e d h i s t e n t s a c o n sid e ra bl e di s ta n c e ahead

,

o f h i s fa th e r . Th e firs t mo v e me n t wa s ma d e by t h e Barea ,
’
wh o a tta ck e d Sh é t o u s ca mp ; but t h e e n e my b e i n g in small
n u mb e rs ,
a n d th e A by ssi n i a n s o n th e l o o k o ut th e y were -
,

e a sily b e a t e n o f f O n thi s o cc a si o n Oubi sh o w e d a n i n stance

.

o f th a t sup e rstiti o u s b e li e f i n t h e r e v e l a ti o n s o f se e rs by

which h e i n c o mmo n with a l mo st a ll h i s c o u n trym e n allows

, ,

hi mse lf to b e guid e d e ve n tho ugh it may i n duc e h i m to act

,

c o n tra ry t o th e dicta t e s o f h is o wn judgme n t o r o f c o mmon

s e n se . H e a ri n g o f th e a tta ck an d it s re pul se h e i mm e di ately ,

s e n t o ff a me sse n g e r t o h i s so n o rd e ri n g hi m o n n o a ccou
, nt

t o fo ll o w up h i s succ e s s by pursui n g t h e e n e m y as it had ,

b e e n fo r e to ld t o h im tha t th e day wo uld b e un lucky to any

o n e se tti n g o ut o n a n e xp e diti o n A fte r re m a in i n g in the
.

sa me pl a c e fo r a we e k b o th c amp s we re a dva n c e d a few

,
’
days j o urn e y t o wa rd s th e i n t e ri o r whe n a c e n tral place ,

h a vi n g b e e n fix e d up o n th e y pitch e d aga i n Th e o bj ect now

, .
C HA P . xx x . 0 03 1 s
’
CA M PA I GN . 1 83

was t o p a rti e s in v ari o u s dire cti o n s t o kill tak e

s e n d o ut , ,

burn d e stro y & c who me v e r o r wha te ve r o f th e e n e my

, , .
,

might fa ll in th e ir way .

O n e o f th e firs t o f th e se p a rti es was h e a d e d by sev e ra l

chi e fs o f di sti n cti o n viz A ph a N e go us We lda Ge o rgi s
,
.
, ,

B eje ra n dy C afty Ai to B a raky a n d o th e rs

,
Th e y mu ste r e d
, .

v e ry s tr o n g a n d se t o f ,
f i n qu e st o f a t o wn o r l a rge villa ge o f
which th e y h a d b e e n t o ld t h e d ir e cti o n B ut fr o m ign o ran c e .

o f t h e c o u n try an d i n a bili ty t o fin d wa t e r th e supply th e y ,

c a rri e d w ith th e m h a vi n g fa il e d th e y s u ffe r e d sa dly fro m ,

fa tigu e a n d thir st a n d n o t o n ly mi sse d th e ir o bj e ct al to ge

,

th e r but ge ttin g i n to di so rd e r divid e d i n to two p a rti e s o n e

, , , ,

o f w hich w ith much di ffi culty a n d t h e l o s s o f se v e ra l me n

,

m i ss i n g man age d t o r e turn t o th e camp whil e th e o th e r was

, ,

e n tir e ly l o s t h avi n g p e ri sh e d e ith e r fr o m wa n t a n d fa tigue

,

o r by t h e sw o rd s o f th e B a r e a .

Th e A ph a N e go n s hi mse l f h a d n e a rly succu mb e d t o th e se

d i fli c ulti e s a n d was fo r thr o wi n g h i mse l f o n th e gro u n d an d
,

re m a i n i n g t o t a k e h i s cha n c e but A it o B a ra ky wh o a pp e a rs ,

t o h a v e sh o wn mo r e c o urage a n d e n duran c e th a n an y o f th e
re s t a s si st e d a n d ch e e r e d h i m an d i n th e e n d succ e e d e d in
, ,

e tti n g h i m h o me
g .

’
O n mu st e ri n g We ld a Ge o rgi s p a rty t o o was fo u n d to h ave
,

s uffe r e d me re th an an y o th e r n u mb e ri n g o n i t s r e tur n
,

s ca rc e ly o n e fo urth o f wh a t it did o n s ta rti n g

-
Oubi wa s .

much e n rage d a t th e failure o f thi s e xp e diti o n a n d wa s o n ly ,

r e v e n t e d by th e i n t e rc e ssi o n o f h i s mo st i n flu e n ti a l m e n
p
fr o m a dmi n i st e ri n g t o t h e A ph a N e go us a n d B e je ran dy
C a ft y a go o d fl o ggin g a s a r e wa rd fo r th e ir su ffe ri n gs i n h i s
s e rv ic e .

Afte r thi s h e s e n t a l a rg e fo rce c o mman d e d by R e mb a ,

s o n o f We ld a Se lassy chi e f o f Se lo a a n d th e so n o f t h e A g
, ,

o w chi e f W e ld I n c h a el Th e y ma n ag e d b e tt e r th a n th e ir
g , .

’
r e cur so r s fo r a ft e r a fe w d ay s a b s e n c e th e y re turn e d t o t h e
p ,

ca m p h a vi n g d e stro y e d th e t o wn a n d ta k e n a go o d b o o ty i n
,

s l a v e s a n d ca t tl e A s a pro o f o f t h e p e rso n a l sup e ri o rity o f

.

t h e B a r e a o v e r th e A by ssin i a n s it i s sa id tha t R e mh a wa s ,

o n e o f th e v e ry fe w me n wh o duri n g t h e wh o l e wa r kill e d a
1 34 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . Cm . xx1 .

Bare a i e in ha n d to ha n d fight an d th i s t oo h e ma naged

s n - -

in a curi o u s man n e r Ha pp e n in g to me e t o n e o f t h e en e my
.
,

h e cha rge d h im a t fii ll s p e e d lan c e in han d i n t e n d i n g doubt

.
,

le ss to a n n ihila te h im t h e sa v age ho w eve r st e ppi n g as ide , , ,

a v o ide d t h e bl o w an d by a d e x te r o us ba c k st ro k e o f his
,
-

he a vy t wo e dge d bla d e ha ms t run g hi s h o rse j us t as he

-
,

pass e d As a ma tt e r o f co urse ho rse a n d h o rs e man mea

.

sure d the ir l e n gt h o n t h e gro un d in a mo s t un di g n i fie d man

n e r w hich so ti ckl e d t h e fa n cy o f th e B a re a t ha t
, i ns t e ad of ,

fin is h in g hi s wo rk o n hi s rec umbe n t en e m y h e s to o d by , ,

la ugh in g til l th e t e a rs ran do wn his che e ks R e mb a how .

,

e ve r n o t be in g in such a mi rth ful moo d j um pe d u an d

, p ,

d ro v e h i s lan ce right t hr o ugh h im an d h e fe ll d e a d o n the ,

gro un d wi t h th e bro a d gr in stil l o n hi s co un te n a n c e Some .

o f t h e A bys s ini an s ass e rt di spa ragin gly tha t in di vi dua ls of

th e Bare a o n mo re t ha n o n e o c cas i o n fi n din g tha t t h e y were ,

o utn u m b e re d t hr e w t h e mse lv e s fla t do wn
, h o p in g e i ther to ,

pa ss fo r d e a d o r t o lie c o n c e a l e d a mo n g t h e gras s an d were ,

e as ily butch e re d but a ltho ugh such in stan c e s rea lly did
,

o c cur t h e pa rti es t h us e vin cin g fea r w e re n e a rly a lwa ys very

,

yo un g me n o r bo ys ; whil e o n t h e o the r h a n d t h e Abys ,

s in i a n s i f the y ch o se c o uld re la te ma n y m o re a n ec d otes

, , ,

in which it wo uld b e se e n t h a t t he i r o wn c o n duct w o ul d in

ge n e ra l su ffe r much if c o mpa re d w ith th a t o f th e ir worse
a rme d but bra v e r e n e mi e s F o r in sta n ce o n o n e o c casion
.
,
’
in th e la te wa r a fo ra gi n g p a rt y fro m Oub i s c a mp n umber ,

in g s e v e n t e e n bra v e Am hara wa rri o rs ca me upo n a single ,

B are a H e wa s a n o ld ma n but fro m hi s p o w e rful make

.
, ,

c o mma n di n g a pp e a ra n c e a n d th e n ume ro u s s tri n gs o f beads

,

with which n o t o n ly h i s p e rso n but h i s s hi e ld was d ec o rated ,

was e vid e n tly a di s ti n gui s h e d war c h i e f an d o n e w h o se per ,

'

so n a l pro we ss h a d sho wn it se l f by h i s h a vi n g c o me o ff victor

i n man y fight s Thi s I sh o uld e xpl a i n was t o b e j udged by

.
, ,

th e n u mb e r o f stri n gs o f b e ad s h e w o re e a ch o f which is or , ,

i s supp o se d by t h e A bys si n i a n s t o b e b o rn e i n c o mme mora ,

ti o n o f so me v icto ry o ve r e ith e r ma n o r b e as t We ll our .

,

brav e p a rty su rro un d e d t h e p o o r o ld fe ll o w e xp e cti n g that ,

h e wo uld e n de a vo ur t o e sc ap e an d tha t so me o n e o f them ,

 1 86 LIFE IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P XXI. .

l h r
e se w e e , s o h e e n gage d himse l f with yo un g D eja t c h Shetou .

Sheto u wa s ve ry fo n d o f h im fo r b e sid e s b e i n g a ta ll h a n dso me

, ,

fe ll o w an d with al a m e rry a n d amu si n g c o m p an i o n h e was

, ,

o n e o f t h e mo st p o we rful m e n in th e c o u n try A ft e r thi s ia .

t ro duc t io n I may re l a t e h o w h e kill e d a B a re a w h o m he

ch an ce d t o me e t A dam thre w a l an ce a t hi m but t h e n igger
.
, ,

afte r e v a di n g it l a id d o wn h i s swo rd a n d shi e l d an d by si ns

, g ,

chall e n ge d o ur fri e n d t o wre stl e Thi s h e d o ub tl e ss did .

,

se e i n g A dam t o b e o f u n u su a l siz e an d s t a ture Our hero .

gla dly a cc e pte d t h e ch all e n ge a n d la yin g d o wn h i s arms , , ,

e a ch a dvan c e d t o th e struggl e which wa s o f c o n s id erable ,

dura ti o n b ut e n d e d by a fa ll in which th e burly A byssinian

, ,

wa s u n d e r . Th e B a re a h ad a sma ll k n i fe bo u n d o n h i s arm ,

as i s t h e cu st o m with all th e N ubia n trib e s Th e A bys sinian .

h ad n o n e t h e cu sto m o f h i s co u n try b e in g n o t t o us e kni ves

i n a n y way n o t a l wa ys e v e n fo r e a t in g
,
N o w w h e t h e r the .
,

sa va ge r e fra i n e d fro m dra wi n g hi s w e a p o n fro m m o tives of

ho n o ur o r wh e th e r fro m fo rge tfuln e ss I k n o w n o t n o r did

, ,

h e live l o n g e n o ugh t o t e ll fo r A d am se iz e d h i s n o se with

,

h is t e e th a n d re mi n d e d h i m o f th e fa ct o f h i s h a vi n g a knife
, ,

by dra win g it fo r h i m a n d cutti n g h i s thro a t with it A n o ther .

fri e n d o f min e A li W e lda Ma ri a m kill e d tw o o f t h e Barea ;

, ,

but th o ugh We lda M a ri a m i s i n re a lity a bra v e m a n and a

go o d so ldi e r I ca n n o t sa y th a t e ithe r o f th e se vi ct o ri e s was
,

gai n e d in a ma n n e r ca lcula t e d t o a dd a t a ll to t h e l a ure ls he

h a d a lr e a dy wo n On e o f th e two e sp e ci ally ga v e h i m much
.

tro ubl e fo r t h e B a r e a a ltho ugh w o u n d e d i n th e sh o ulder at

, ,

th e ve ry fir st o n se t pre sse d h a rd o n my fri e n d cutti n g with

, ,

h i s br o a d swo rd an e n o rmo u s ga sh i n h i s to ugh b uflalo h ide

'

shi e ld a n d wo uld i n a ll pro b a bility h a v e pr o v e d t o o much

, ,
’
fo r h i m h a d n o t two o th e r A mharas s e e i n g th e ir c o mrade s
, ,

awkwa rd p o siti o n ga ll o p e d up a n d kill e d h i s a dv e rsa ry from

,

b e hin d .

Oubi me an whil e ke pt gradually a dva n ci n g shi fti n g hi s ca mp ,

fro m pl a c e t o pl a ce an d fo ll o wi n g up t h e pl a n h e h a d begun
, ,

o f s e n di n g o ut p a rti e s t o r a va ge t h e co u n try t h o ugh h e him ,

se l f n e v e r l e ft t h e c a mp I n all h e re ma i n e d n e a rly two

.

mo n th s i n th e sla ve c o un try which h e c o mpl e t e ly traversed

”
,
C HA P . XXI .
’
O UB I S RE TUR N . 187

—so c o mpl e t e ly in d e e d as I b e li e ve t o hav e e ith e r in te n

, , ,

tio n ally o r by mi s ta ke co mmitte d so me d e pre d a ti o n s i n t h e

,

b o rd e r vi ll age s o f th e mo re n o rth e rn trib e s which are cla i me d ,

as tri buta ri e s by th e Egypti a n Go v e rn me n t H e re turn e d .

ho me wa rd s by th e way o f th e B i dél e s an d D e mb e la s ha vi n g ,

se n t h i s e ld e s t so n Le mma two o r thr e e d a ys i n a dvan c e o f

, ,

th e ma i n a rmy D e mb e la s a n d th e n e ighbo uri n g pro vin ce

.

o f To k h o ul b o th n o mi n a lly b e l o n g t o Ti gr e Th e y a re i n .
,

fa ct i n ha bit e d by Tigrean s but fro m the ir re mo t e p o siti o n s

, , , ,

are n e a rly i n d e p en d e n t a n d se ld o m o r n e v e r pay an y tribut e

, ,
’
kn o win g tha t it wo uld n o t b e wo rth th e prin c e s whil e to se n d
an a rmy o n pu rp o se a ga i n st th e m an d judgi n g th a t th e y a re
,

o f th e m se lv es sufli c i e n tly p o we rful t o r e p e l an y m i n o r in va

si o n Wh e n Le mma re a ch e d th e ir co u n try with th e va n gua rd

.
,

t h e y b e gan t o c o ll e ct a ga i n st h i m but as so o n a s t h e ma in
,

a rmy a pp ea re d le d by Oubi hims e l f th e y a ssu me d a mo re

, ,

h umbl e a ttitud e o ffe ri n g h i m th e ir sub mi s si o n a n d l a rge pre

, ,

s e n ts o f h o n e y a n d o th e r pro vi si o n s Th e a rmy ca mp e d .

fo r a fe w da ys an d the n p a ssin
,
by Q uo h ain Se rauy
, , ,

Go un d e t a n d A d e rb aty a rriv e d at d o u a in t h e mo n th o f
, ,

Me ga vl t ( F e bru a ry) an d pitche d in th e p ari sh o f En da

,

Ma riam j ust o utsid e th e to wn

, .
188 LIFE IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P XXI I . .

C H A PTE R XX II .

MA N N E R S AN D C US TOM S .

i
’
I N t h e mo n th Ju n e
of ,
b sence
1 8 44, a ft e r a b o ut n n e i mo n ths a ,

I r e turn e d t o Ad o ua
with th e in t e n ti o n o f p ass i n g th e re the
,

rai n y se aso n a n d t h e un he a lthy p e ri o d which fo ll o ws it .

I t o o k up my ab o d e a t th e h o u s e o f B e lla d ta Sably in ,

t h e Mo sl e m qu a rt e r which I c o n ti n u e d t o i n ha bit during the

,

wh o l e o f my sta y ; a n d I ca n n o t d o b e tt e r tha n c o mmence

my chapt e r o f M a n n e rs a n d C u s to ms by givi n g a d e scri ption
o f an A by ssi n i a n d w e llin g o f t h e b e tt e r cla ss .

I n Ad o u a t h e h o u s e s a re o f c o urse o f ma n y d e s c riptions
, , ,

a cc o rdi n g t o th e c o n diti o n o f th e ir re s p e ctiv e o wn e rs Those .

o f t h e w e a lthy a re fo r t h e m o st p a rt s qu a re a n d fla t ro o fed
, ,
-
,

whil e t h e h a bit a ti o n s o f th e p o o re r cl asse s a re prin cipally

ro u n d an d c o ve re d i n w ith a co n ical ro o f tha tche d with
,

straw . A d e scripti o n o f t h e o n e I in ha bit e d w i ll give a

t o l e rably c o rre ct id e a o f th o se o f t h e fo rme r cl a ss .

Th e D e ggy Sa l am i s t h e p ri n cip a l ga t e i n m o s t ho uses ,

th e o n ly o n e by which yo u e n te r fro m t h e s tre e t

,
It is .

u sua lly a c o v e re d e n tra n ce with a sma ll ro o m o n o ne or ,

b o th side s i n t e n d e d fo r t h e p o rt e r Aga fari D e ggy Sali m

"

, , ,

o r o th e r s e rva n t s P a ssi n g thro ugh thi s ga te yo u e n ter a

.

la rge co urt a b o ut thirty ya rd s squ a re in th e fro n t part of

, ,

which a re c o n struct e d o n e o r mo re g jj
o o s o r w ig wa ms
“
,
'

o f stra w fo r t h e a cc o mm o d a ti o n o f s e rva n t s o r s trangers

,
.

I n th e right ha n d c o rn e r a t t h e e n d o f th e ya rd fa rth e st from

-
,

I n the
”
t h e e n tra n c e i s t h e a dd e rash
,
o r re c e pti o n h a ll ,
-
.

l e ft han d c o rn e r i s a n o th e r build in g n o t so l arge usually

-
, ,

o ccupie d by t h e a z z adge o r h o u se st e wa rd a n d which

,
-
,
1 90 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . CH AR XXH .

su pplies of —
pro visi o ns co rn butt e r h o n ey
, &c , The back , .

court b e l on gs en tire ly t o th e se rvan ts empl o y e d i n c oo king .

bre win g & c an d may co n ta in ma n y sma ll buil din gs as

, .
, ,

e a ch se rva n t has hi s la b o ra to ry se p ara t e fro m th e o thers

Thus th e re is o n e appro pri at e d to th e t e dge m elk én ia or ,

”

b rewe r o f mead whe re h e bre ws an d afte r wa rd s l o cks up his

,

j ars o f hydro me l as h e is h e ld res po n sibl e fo r it an d would

, ,

n o t o f c o urse b e abl e t o a n swe r fo r h is th irs ty fe ll o w servants -

h o n e sty un l e ss his cha rge were sec ure d u n d e r l o ck an d key .

Th e re is a se pa ra te ro o m fo r a kitche n a n o th e r fo r sto ring ,

an d an o th e r fo r gri n din g c orn pe pp e r & c , , .

T he Ad dem h .

d uti e s as we ll as th e carryi ng o f wate r co ok in g and making

, , , ,

b e er, i nvariably de v o lv e o n th e wo men whil e th e makingd ,

’
me ad is usuall y a man s o ffi c e .

”
a dde rash
“
Th e o r r e c e p tio n b a ll is s qua re o r o blong
,
-
,

a n d wh en as in my h o us e
, it is so la rge as t o rendet h
,
 C HA P . XXI I . TH E A D D E RA S H .
”
19 1

difficult t o fin d a suffi ci e n t n u mb e r o f go o d b e ams t o re ach

a cro s s it a pl an is a d o pt e d which it h a s o fte n struck me
,

m ight b e a dva n tage o usly e mpl o y e d u n d e r si mil a r circu m

s ta n c es e v e n in Euro p e Th e fo ur c o rn e rs a re cut o ff by
.

s ma ll b e a ms l a id a cro ss th e m l e a vi n g an o cta go n a l a p e rture ,

°

i n t h e middl e ro u n d which i s built a wa ll a bo ut fo ur o r fiv e

,

fe e t h igh ; thi s se rv e s a t o n c e t o h e ight e n t h e ro o m

a n d l e ss e n t h e width t o b e c o v e r e d i n On thi s wa ll i s .

l a c e d t h e r o o f w hich c o n s i s t s o f b o ugh s o f tre e s l a id cro ss

p ,

w i se o ve r t h e b e ams ; th o se o f t h e da te p a l m o r A rka i -
,

a mb o o
( a s o rt o f b ) a re pre fe ra bl e t h e l a tt e r e sp e ci a lly are
,

s o m e t i me s l a id v e ry n e a tly a n d ha v e a g o o d a pp e a ra n c e
'

, ,

b ut a re littl e u se d fro m th e ir sca rcity i n t h e mo u n ta i n

, ,

c o un t ry So me sma ll e r b o ugh s with th e ir l e a v e s are la id

.
, ,

o v e r th e s e t o fill up t h e cre vic e s b e t we e n th e m ; an d o v e r

t h e w h o l e i s spre a d a la ye r o f e a rth a n d shin gl e o r p e bbl e s , ,

w h ic h i s tro dde n an d so m e ti me s spri n kl e d with wa t e r t o

, ,

re n d e r it mo re so lid but e ve ry ye a r it h a s t o b e re n e we d ,

b f h p ri dic a l rai n s W d a sh e s a re o ft e n
j u s t e o re t e e o o o .
-

a d d e d , as the y a re c o n sid e re d u se ful in re n d e rin g t h e wh o l e

w a t e r tigh t
-
B ut th e first h e avy sh o we rs th o ugh u se ful in
.
,

s e t t li n g d o wn th e ro o f an d ma ki n g it so lid i n cre a se i t s ,

w e i gh t t o such a n e xt e n t tha t i f th e pre ca uti o n i s n o t ta ke n

‘

o f l a yi n g large flag like pi e c e s o f st o n e a l o n g t h e t o p o f th e

-

w a ll i mme di ate ly u n d e r th e r o o f t o sh o o t o ff t h e wa t e r
, , ,

t h e wa lls built o n ly o f ro ugh st o n e s stuck t o ge th e r with

,

m ud w o uld so o n di sso lve wh e n mo i ste n e d by t h e ra in an d

, ,

i ld t o t h e sup e ri n cu mb e n t w e ight T h e fl ags h o w e ve r

y e .
, ,

w hi ch a re fo u n d in t h e b e d o f t h e A ssa m a bro o k fl o win g ,

c l o se t o Ad o u a n o t o n ly c o ve r but pro j e ct c o n sid e ra bly

, ,

b e y o n d th e wall so a s t o pre ve n t i t s b e i n g a fle c t e d by an y
'

dr o ppi n gs o r so akin gs fro m th e ro o f N o twith stan di n g th e s e .

pre c a uti o n s th e fa ll o f h o u se s a n d e n cl o sure wa ll s i s n o t a n

,

un c o m m o n o ccurre n c e .

Th e in t e ri o r o f my dwe llin g may b e c o n sid e re d a s i n thre e

di vi s i o n s r . Th e a p a rt m e n t o ccupi e d by my se lf i n which
.
,

I s l e e p e a t an d r e c e iv e my vi sit o rs
, ,
2 Th e sta bl e whe re . .
1 92 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AD . XXI I .

my mul e s ke pt a n d wh ich o p e n s in to my ro o m, there

are ,

n o t b e i n g e v e n a d o o r t o s e p ara t e us Th e mul e s stand .

with th e ir h e ad s t o wa rd s me a n d wh e n I a m e at i n g make
,

o
'
e r a t m e t o thr o w th e m bits o f bre ad 3 T h e M éde b
”
. .
,

a so rt o f c o uch ma d e o f sto n e s a n d plas te re d o v e r wi th mu

, d .

I dign rfy i t with th e n ame o f c o uch th o ugh i n re a li ty it is ,

n o thi n g mo re th an a p a rt o f t h e fl o o r ra i se d a s t e p higher

tha n th e re mai n d e r an d e xt e n din g th e wh o l e l e n gth o f the

,

ro o m an d a bo ut fiv e fe e t bro a d Thi s i s s e p ara t e d fro m my

,
.

a pa rt me n t by a pa rti ti o n wal l in which i s a n o pe n ing of

,

a b o ut e ight fe e t bro a d Sh o uld th e h o u se be l o n g t o a married

.

man thi s ap e rture i s cl o se d by a curta i n dra wn a cro ss it

,
.

Th e méd e b i s u se d by th e la di e s as a w i t hd ra wi n g room; -

a n d fro m b e hi n d thi s curta in t he y p e e p a t all th a t go es on

i n th e re c e pti o n ha ll up o n fe stive o ccas io n s O n e n teri ng .

my ap a rtme n t th e sta bl e i s o n t h e right h a n d a n d the ,

”
“ ”
med e b o n th e l e ft I n fro n t i s t h e
. a ra t o r c o uch of
“

th e mas te r o f th e h o u se pl a c e d a l so i n a so rt o f a lcove
, ,

lik e th e mede b fro m which a small d o o r pa ss e s to the

“ ”
,

l e ft o p e n i n g i n t o a priva te p assage by which th e mas ter can

, ,

p ass u n o b se rve d to th e méde b o r c a n e ffe c t h is e scape

”
,

by a smal l d o o r h e lfin ia t o th e b a ck ya rd w hich he ,

o ft e n fi n d s c o n v e n i e n t fo r a vo idin g di sa gre e a bl e vi sitors .

Th e a ra t I h av e ju st me n ti o n e d i s th e c o uch o r be d on
“ ”

which a ll t o wn A bys sin i an s sl e e p ; tha t is to sa y all those ,

wh o c a n affo rd t h e luxury It is a so lid frame w o rk o f wood

.

o n fo ur l e gs .A fre sh raw hid e i s cut i n t o s trip s a n d these ,

a re s tre tch e d o v e r t h e fra me i n a n d o ut o n e cro ssi ng the ,

o th e r a b o ut a n i n ch o r ra th e r mo re ap a rt Th e whole .

tight e n s i n dryin g a n d fo rms a ra the r ha rd but ve ry agree

, ,

abl e c o o l b e d
,
It i s th e cu sto m a lways t o s l e e p n ak e d but
.
,

co ve re d with th e qu a rry o r co tto n cl o th wo rn i n th e day

ti me ; an d t h e o n ly b e ddi n g u se d i s a pi e ce o f n a tiv e tanned -

l e a the r so th a t th e ai r h a s fre e a cce ss fro m b e lo w I n these

, .

h o t cli mat e s h o we v e r it i s mo re u su a l t o sl e e p o ut o f doors;

, ,

th e a ra t i n sid e t h e ho u se b e i n g u se d fo r c o ld o r wet
we ath e r o n ly o r fo r re c e iv in g vi sit o rs i n t h e d a yti me
, The .
1 94 LIFE IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXI I .

t bl e itse lf which i s d o n e t wo o r thre e tim e s a w e e k for

s a ,
’
t h e sak e o f th e mul e s fe e t which wo uld o th e rw i s e be co me
,

so ft e n e d by re ma i n i n g in t h e we t This l a s t o p e ration
.

ma k e s a gre a t d e a l o f dirt ; fo r h avin g n o b uck e ts they

, ,

ca rry o ut th e ma n ure a n d filth i n an y so rt o f b a s ke t gourd

—
, ,

o r di s h th e y c an fir s t la y h an d s o u dr o p pi n g o f c o u r se , ,

a go o d d e a l o n t h e wa y Thu s t h e b e a uti ful ca rp e t b e co mes

.

i n ti me n o thi n g l e ss th an a ma n ure h ea p i n a high sta te of -

fe rme n ta ti o n o r putre fa cti o n I ts surfa c e fro m t h e con

'

.
,

t in ua l supply k e e p s a n a pp e a ran c e o f fre s hn e s s

, but though
t h e e ye ma y b e d e c e ive d fo r a ti me th e n o s e c an n o t be ; ,

a n d t h e sme ll b e c o mi n g i n to l e rabl e th e wh o l e i s o bliged

,

t o b e cl e an e d o ut F o r a t l e a st a d ay a ft e r thi s o pera
.

ti o n th e ho use mu st b e le ft to ve n tilate o th e rwi se n o one ,

c o uld live in it D irty as thi s pra c t ic e i s w e cannot

.
,

much c o mpl a i n o f it i n th e A byssin ia n s a s t h e o ld English ,

cu sto m o f stre wi n g th e ro o ms with ru sh e s e n ta ile d con

se qu e n c e s th a t wo uld pro b a bly n o w a da y s se e m quite as - -

di sgu sti n g .

’
A ro u n d th e ro o m c o ws h o rn s a re fixe d t o se rv e a s hook
t o which are su sp e n d e d as o rn ame n t s shi e ld s l a n c e s guns , ,

s wo rd s ski n s a n d o th e r tro phi e s o f th e ch a se

, , Th e shields .

ha ve h o l e s bo re d a ll ro u n d th e e dge an d t h e lo o p by which
,

the y are slun g i s ch a n ge d o cca si o n a lly fro m o n e t o t h e o ther

’
o f th e s e e sp e ci a lly in d a mp w e a th e r t o pre v e n t t h e shi elds
, ,

l o sin g it s sha p e Th e la n c e s a re k e pt i n sh e a th s called

.

”
sh i ffa f a t t h e p o i n t o f which i s a l o o p b w hich t h y are
, y e ,

slu n g . Th e la n c e s lik e t h e shi e ld sh o uld swi n g fre e o f the

, ,

wall t o k e e p th e m p e rfe ctly straight Th e w o o d i s fr e quently

.

gre a se d with butte r to re n d e r it to ugh an d pli a n t an d the ,

iro n i s co ve re d with a co a ting o f su e t t o pre v e n t i t s rusting

A gre a t d e a l o f fa shi o n an d fa n cy e xi st s in th e fo rm o f the
,

la n c e h e a ds a n d much tro ubl e i s ta ke n t o pro c ure wood

,

tha t i s pre tty i n a pp e a ra n ce a n d at th e sa me ti m e o f good

,

qu ality La rge faggo t s o f th e yo u n g tre e s o f w hich they are

.

ma d e a re b ro ught fro m t h e l o we r o r q uo l
,l a c o u n try .

The se are bu rn t till th e p e e l co me s o ff : t h e wo o d is then

C HA P . XXI I . M A N N E RS AND C US TOM S . 19 5

t ighte n e d
s ra an d
dri e d which i s a v e ry n ice o pe ra ti o n
we ll ,

fo r i f t o o much dri e d it b e c o me s brittl e ; i f mo r e burn t i n

o n e p a rt th a n an o th e r it w ill n e v e r k e e p stra ight a n d if n o t

s ufli c i e n t ly dri e d it i s i n e qu a lly b a d c o n diti o n It i s n e x t .

gr e a se d an d hun g o v e r a fire pla c e fo r se ve ra l mo n ths till i t

,

a s s u me s a re ddi sh y e ll o w ti n t w h e n it i s c o n s id e re d h an d
-
,

s o m e a n d we ll se a s o n e d It i s the n mo u n t e d a n d k e pt
.

re a dy fo r use Th e A rka i o r Shi mme l whi ch h a s b e e n

.
, ,
”

b e fo re d e scribe d as a so rt o f ba mb o o i s a lso u s e d fo r la n c e s , .

Wh e n a lan ce ge ts a li ttl e cro o k e d it i s u su a l t o su sp e n d i t

w ith a l a rge s to n e o r o th e r we ight fa st e n e d t o it s jamfo
“
,

o r butt i n o rd e r t o stra ight e n it ; a n d I h a v e s e e n a gun

,

hu n g up in th e sa me way with a sto n e t o i t s muzzle O n .

i n quiri n g o f th e ma n wh y h e h a d d o n e thi s a n d b e i n g ,

a n swe re d b e ca u se it sho t cro o ke d I re pli e d H ad yo u

, , ,

n o t b e tt e r h a n g a st o n e t o y o ur e e fo r p e rh a p s it may se e
y ,

c ro o k e d So me o f my r e a d e rs wh o ma y re turn fro m t h e
fie ld w ith e mpty bags o n th e rst o f Se pt e mb e r ma y pro ba bly
lik e t o try thi s so rt o f cure fo r th e ir gun s o r th e ir e ye s as , ,

t h e ca se may b e .

B e s id e s th e use ful an d o rn ame n t a l a rticl e s a lre a dy me n

t i o n e d a s su sp e n d e d a ro u n d t h e ro o m a re t h e di ffe re n t ,

h o rs e an d mul e trappi n gs a n d t h e wa n cha

, o r d ri n ki n g ,

h o rn s . Th e la tte r are ke pt i n l e a th e r ca se s with a l o n g

st ra p by which wh e n i n t h e h o u se
, , th e y a re su sp e n d e d t o
,

th e w a l l an d wh e n o n a j o urn e y ca rri e d ro u n d t h e n e ck
, , ,

of a b o y t o wh o m thi s o fli c e i s assign e d
, Th e med e b is .

’
rs ua lly fill e d with t h e wo me n s pro p e rty — bo xe s fo r sc e n ts ,

sm a l l gl as s b o ttl e s fo r e sse n ti a l o il s a n d me ta l o n e s fo r t h e
,
”
k o h ly o r an timo n y & c
, , .

We mu st n o w take a su rve y o f t h e ki tch e n I magi n e a .

;m a l l r o o m a b o ut 1 0 fe e t l o n g 6 bro a d a n d 8 high w ith o r

, , ,

vi t h o ut a wi n d o w a cc o rdi n g t o circ ums ta n c e s

, but mo re ,

rsua l ly as in min e with o ut o n e

, , an d a t a ll e v e n t s with o u t ,

c h i m n e y ; so th a t t h e smo k e which i s a l mo st a l wa y s k e pt
,

;o i n,g a n d th a t vi g o ro u sly fi n d s th e d o o r t h e n e a re s t e xit ;

,

nd it ma y b e e a sily co n c e iv e d th at t h e a tmo sph e re is so

0 2
19 6 LIFE IN ' ’
AB l SS IN I A . C a AP . XXI I;

r
de n se as to e n er d it di ffi cult fo r an y o n e b u t a na ti v e to

re mai n l o ng in th e ro o m Eve th e
. n co o k w o
- m e n w h
, o p as s

t he gr t r p t
ar o f t h e d i n thi s sm o k e n e v e r t h i nk o f
ea e a y ,

t i
s a n d ng up to do th e ir w o rk b u t ,
a l wa y s re m a i n s q u a t te d a s

lo w as po s sibl e e i th er n e ar th e d oo r o r fim Ev e ry article
, .

th e ro o m c o n ta in s be co me s, l ik e th e i tse lf; of a
'
pu re so o t b la ck Th e kitchen ute n si ls are th e magogo
.
“

o r o v e n ( if it ma y b e so ca ll ed ) a fe w j
,
m o f di fferent forms
an d si z e s acc o rdi n g t o t h e use th e y are u to be pu t
—
,

to s o me with l o n g n e ck s an d um w mo uth s fo r carrying

,

an d k e e pin g wa t er i n ; o th e rs with wi d e mon th s and no

n e cks a t all fo r h o ldi n g t h e liquid d o ugh o f whi ch th e hea d

—
,

m
is o r e d
f ,
a n d th e e a rth e n d is hes o r in w hi
n ch the

me a t an d o the r ea ta ble s are pre pare d an d se rve d up The .

 19 8 LIFE IN A B YS S I I VI A . C HA P . XXI I .

u sua l me th o d o f disti n gui sh i ng an y fo re ign i m p o rtati on .

Thi s so rt o f c o rn ho we ve r is ra th e r s ca rc e i n t h e c o un try
, , ,

a n d i s mutu a lly e xch an ge d by fri e n d s as p re s e n t s o f co m

p l i m e n t ju s t as a h a mp e r o f g a m e o r a b a rr e l o f o y s te rs

wo uld b e i n E n gla n d It is se ld o m gro un d b e i n g m o re fre

.
,

qu e n tly e a te n a s a d e licacy ro a st e d o n th e e mb e rs with ,

butt e r o r b o il e d lik e p e a s O n e o r t wo so rt s o f pe a s be ans

, .
, ,

a n d v e tch e s a re a l so u s e d in c o o k e ry a n d s o m e ti me s for ,

maki n g bre a d Th e chi e f c o rn o f th e c o u n try h o w e ve r is

.
, ,

t e ff a n d dago ush a if i n d e e d we ma y v e n t ure to in

“
,
”
, ,

e lu d e th e se u n d e r th e h e a d o f c o rn fo r th e y b o th r e se mble
di ffe re n t so rts o f gras s an d th e se e d i s no t la rg e r th an rape
,

o r c a n ary se e d O f e a ch o f th e se th e re are va ri o u s qua liti es

.
,

e s t e e me d a cc o rdrn
g t o th e ir c o l o ur— w hit e re d o r bl a c k
"

, ,
.

Whit e t e ff bre a d is pre fe rre d by a ll n a tiv e s e v e n t o wheat

bre a d Whit e dago ush a i s n o t o ften gro wn i n th e high
.

la n d di stri cts b e in g mo re co mmo n ly me t with in t h e lower

,

co un tri e s like Sh iré & c A ll p e rso n s wh o ca n aflord

'

.
, ,
”
te ff pre fe r it fo r bre a d as e xc e pt i n t h e q u o lla
, ,

i s littl e e s t e e me d o r u se d e xcept
”
c o u n try t h e , dago ush a
fo r maki n g b e e r I n fa ct it sta n d s i n th e sa me po sitio n to
.
,

t e fl in A by ssi n ia a s b a rl e y d o e s t o whe a t in th i s c o untry

'

B e fo re th e c o rn c a n b e u s e d fo r bre a d it mu s t b e gro und ;

which O p e ra ti o n i s p e rfo rme d by a v e ry si mpl e a n d pri mitive
a pp a ra tu s c o n si sti n g me re ly o f t wo sto n e s t h e mout
,
— ,
“

”
han o r gri n din g st o n e an d th e -
mud id o r grin d er (b)
,
.

Th e mo ut h a n (A ) i s a pi e c e o f h a rd sto n e a b o ut t wo feet
-
,

l o n g by o n e fo o t bro a d pl a ce d o n a fo un d a ti o n c o mposed
,

o f s ma ll s t o n e s mix e d with cl a y o f s uch a h e i ght t hat the ,

upp e r e dge o f th e sto n e i s a bo ut l e v e l with th e hip o f the

p e rso n a t wo rk i ts surfa ce sl o pi n g gradu ally d o wn wards, so
,

a s t o a ll o w th e fl o ur a s it i s gro u n d to fal l o f it s e lf i n to the

ho l e o r i n to th e tro ugh s (a a ) o n e o f which i s o n each ,

sid e o f t h e st o n e an d wh e n c e i t i s swe pt by t h e h a n d i n to 6
,
.

Th e c o rn t o b e gro un d i s u sua lly pla c e d in t h e h o ll o w (d) ,

an d as fa st a s t h e supply a l re a dy o n th e st o n e i s
, gr o un d a ,

littl e mo re i s bro ught up fro m thi s re ce pta cle by o n e hand ,

C HA P . XXI I . M A N N E RS AN D C US TOM S . 1 99

whil e th e i d e r i s ke pt i n mo ti o n b y th e
mudi d, or gr n ,

o th e r . Th e s t o n e s a re ch o se n fr o m th e mo un ta in s a cc o rdi n g ,

t o th e ir qu a lity a n d c are i s ta k e n tha t th e y sha ll b e as n e a rly

,

a s p o s s ibl e o f a c o n v e n i e n t sha p e ; fo r i n th e se c o u n tri e s

th e y ha v e n o pro p e r to o l s fo r wo rkin g sto n e an d th e ir wa y

o f s m o o th i n g a gri n di n g st o n e i s by t appi n g it with a p e bbl e
-
,

G ri n di n g-st o n e .

w hich i s lo n g an d t e di o u s o p e ra ti o n but ultimat e ly pro

a ,

duce s a to l e rably smo o th surfa ce A go o d ha rd wo rki n g .

w o man se rvan t w ill ge n e ra lly gri n d fro m six t o e ight me a

-

sur e s — e ight t o t e n qu a rt s— of t e ff i n a day b e sid e s d o in g ,

h e r o th e r wo rk The re are se v e ra l ways o f ma kin g t h e fl o ur

.

i n to bre a d a cc o rdi n g t o th e t a st e o f th e e a te r th e qua lity

, ,

o f t h e c o rn an d th e ti me a n d ci rcu m st a n c e s c o n n e ct e d
,

wi t h t h e ba kin g F o r e xampl e we ha ve i n a fo rme r ch a pte r

.
,

s e e n t h e ma n n e r in which tr av e ll e rs wh o h a v e n o ti me t o l o se

ma ke th e ir go go bre a d Th e o rdi n ary bre ad i s calle d

.

”
t a ita or
, tabita an d i s ma d e o f t h e di ffe re n t ki n d s o f
“
,

c o m I h a v e ju st n ame d a n d s o me ti me s i n th e c o u n try
, , ,

o f pe as an d v e tch e s Th e fl o ur h as first t o b e we ll dri e d o n

.

th e
“
mago go th e n mix e d with wa t e r so a s t o fo rm a so rt
”
, ,

o f p as t e o r d o ugh o f ab o ut t h e c o n si st e n c e o f w e a k gru e l .

T hi s i s put i n t o a n e a rth e n jar a n d l e ft t o sta n d fo r a da y ,

a n d n i ght t o l e a v en : it i s th e n r e a dy fo r b a ki n g which i s ,

a v e ry si mpl e pro ce ss F irst t o pre v e n t th e bre a d fro m

.
,
200 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . CH A P. XXI I .

a dh e ri n g t o th e mago go it i s rubb e d with se e d o f an o ily

,

qu ality call e d ad dra re se mblin g li ns e e d Th i s is done

, ,
.

a ft e r th e ma go go h a s b e e n we ll he a te d b y t h e fire under
n e a th a n d wh e n t h e se e d b e c o me s so h o t as t o e mi t a gas ,

it i s ign it e d an d with a bit o f rag rubbe d o v e r th e surface of

,

mago go
”
th e Of th e
. gru e l o r liquid d o ugh a sufli cient
qu an tity t o ma k e o n e cak e i s th e n p o ure d o n t h e o ve n and ,

with t h e han d i s spre a d o v e r th e who l e o f t h e c i rc ular con

c av e (A) an d t h e c o v e r b e in g put o n fo r tw o o r three
,

mi n ut e s t h e bre a d is tak e n o ff re a dy fo r e a ti n g
,
To facili .
~

t at e th e o pe ra ti o n t h e gru e l i s l adle d o ut o f t h e b o urma

,
'

or j a r with a sma ll ca la ba sh which wh e n fil l e d c o n tains

, , ,

e x a ctly t h e qu a n tity r e qui sit e fo r a ca k e

. a b o u t e ighteen ,

in che s i n dia me t e r o f t h e thickn e ss o f a tw o p e n n y piece

, ,
”
a n d full o f h o l e s lik e sp o n ge o r a h o n e yc o m b
'

,
Th e ted
“
.

i s c o n sid e re d by t h e A byssi n i a n s wh o l e so me a n d di ge sti ble ;

but so far fro m b e i n g sa ti sfi e d o f thi s I a m d o ubtful o f its ,

c o n ta i n in g much n utriti o u s pro p e rty ; an d as fo r i ts tas te ,

o n ly fa n cy y o urse lf ch e wi n g a pi e c e o f so ur spo n ge an d you ,

w ill ha ve a go o d id e a o f wh at i s c o n sid e re d t h e b e s t breed

i n Aby ssi n i a With re ga rd t o th e dago ush a i t s fla vour is
.
,
”
e v e n wo rs e th an th e t e ff h avi n g ge n e ra lly a gritt y sandy
, ,

t a st e in th e mo uth a n d i t s virtu e s may b e judge d o f fro m the

fa ct th a t it u n d e rgo e s but littl e ch a n ge i n p a s s i n g th rough
t h e dige s tiv e p ro c e s s .

A n o th e r ki n d o f bre a d i s ca ll e d kitcha U n l ike the .

tabita it i s cri sp a n d dry b e i n g ma de me re ly o f flo ur and

,
”
,

wa t e r p o ure d o v e r a h o ll o we d iro n c a ll e d
“
m agl o h atz in ’
, ,

a n d bake d I f it b e o f wh e a t ma n y p e rso n s spre a d a little

.
,

butt e r o n th e n o n be fo re p o uri n g o ut th e do ugh w hi ch gi ves ,

t h e bre a d a t a s t e so m e thi n g lik e b a d pi e cru s t Ma d e rn this .

way th e kitch a i s p e rh a p s o n e o f t h e mo st wh o l e s o me and

pa lat abl e so rts o f bre a d I n siz e it i s n e a rly o f t h e same
.

d i am e t e r a s t h e ta bita but much thin n e r ; fo r if well

, ,

ma de it sho uld b e sca rce ly thick e r than a wa fe r

,
!
.

A mo n g th e b re ad w as n e v e r cut, b ut b ak e d i n a ! : meet.
a n c i e n ts

w h i ch we re e as i ly b ro k e n Th is a n c ie n t fo rm o f b re a d i s s till re tained
.
 20 2 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXI I .

had ju st re turn e d fro m a p a rty wha t so rt o f a di n n e r h e had ,

had . D a ( si n o n gra ve
“
te ll us sa ys h e ( if it “
,
“

’
d o n t b o re yo u qu m pri m a i ra t um v e n tr em
p la ca verit
e sc a w ha t fo o d fi rs t a pp e ase d yo u r fi e rc e digestive
o rgan s I can n o t pre t e n d t o pre se n t such a li s t o f d ainties
.

a s did F un dan ius N asidi e n us was a be tt e r c a t e re r than

.

e v e n Oubi Pri n c e o f E th i o pi a ,
Th e n a tiv e s h e re though .
,

C h ri sti an ha v e ge n e ra lly a d e cid e d pre judic e a ga i n st pig ;

,

so tha t n o Le uca n i an b o a r ca n b e e xp e ct e d a n d v e ge tables

a re a l mo st u n kn o wn M a ce n as h ad hi s ch o ic e o f A lban or
.

F a l e rn i a n but I was o blige d t o b e sati sfi e d with a kin d of

fe rme n t e d t o a st a n d wa t e r ca ll e d h e re be e r o r an e quall , y ,

i n fe ri o r tipple made with h o n e y so me thi n g a ft e r t h e manner ,

o f me a d .

Th e fl e sh o f bull s an d o xe n i s littl e re li s h e d ; that of

c o ws sp aye d go a t s an d she e p b e in g much m o re e s te e med
, , .

A fa t c o w c o st s i n t h e ma rk e t fro m t wo t o thre e do llars

’
( 8 s 411 t o 1 2 s
. . O n e v e ry fe s tive o cca s i o n as a saint s
.
,

d ay birth ma rri age & c it i s cu s to mary fo r a rich man to

, , ,
.
,

c o ll e ct h i s fri e n d s an d n e ighb o urs an d kill a c o w an d one ,

o r t wo sh e e p Th e pri n cip a l p a rt s o f t h e c o w a re e a t en as
.

o r raw b e e f ; t h e re ma i n d e r i s c ut i n t o small
”
“
b ro un d o ,

pi e ce s an d c o o k e d with t h e favo urit e sa uc e o f b utter and

,

the d illikh p a st e Thi s i s th e o n ly s o rt o f ma d e dish

”
.
,

th o u gh th e y va ry t h e pri n cip a l co mp o n e n t p a rt s but whe ther

fish fl e sh fo wl o r v e ge ta bl e s pre d o mi n a te t h e sa me p e ppery
, , , ,

a n d gre a sy s a uc e i s a l ways t h e a cc o mp a n i me n t Various .

o the r i n gr e di e n t s a re so m e ti me s ch o pp e d i n t o it a n d they ,

a re th e n s t e w e d t o ge th e r i n a n e a rth e n di sh o r po t in which ,

th e mess i s se n t t o t a bl e I n thi s pre p a ra ti o n t h e re is

.

u su ally so l a rge a qu an tity o f th e re d p e pp e r p a s te that the -

wh o l e i s o f a b right re d h ue an d a dro p o f t h e sa uce is

-
,

su ffi ci e n t t o p ro duc e a bl o o d re d s ta in o n a n y a rt icl e of

-

dre ss .

Th e sla ughte ri n g o f an i ma l s in Abyssi n i a i s a tt e n d e d with

a re gul a r c e re mo n y as in M o h a mme d a n c o u n tri e s
, The .

an i ma l i s thr o wn d o wn with i t s h e a d t o t h e e a s t an d the ,

C HAP . XXI I . M A N N E RS AN D C US TOM S . 20 3

k n i fe p a sse d a cro ss it s thro a t whil e t h e wo rd s I n t h e n a me ,

“

”
o f t h e F a th e r So n a n d H o ly G h o st
, ,
a re pro n o un c e d by
,

t h e butch e r A l mo st b e fo re t h e d e a th s truggl e i s o v e r
.

p e rso n s a re re a dy to fla y th e ca rcase an d pi e c e s o f th e raw ,

m e a t a re cut o ff a n d se rve d up be fo re thi s o p e ra ti o n i s

c o m pl e t e d in fact a s e a ch pa rt pre s e n t s itse lf it i s c ut o ff
, ,

a n d e a t e n w hil e ye t wa rm a n d quiv e ri n g I n thi s sta t e it i s .

c o n s id e re d an d ju stly so t o b e ve ry sup e ri o r in t ast e t o

, ,

w h a t it i s wh e n co ld R a w m e a t i f k e pt a littl e ti me ge t s
.
, ,
'

t o u gh ; wh e re a s if e a t e n fre sh a n d wa rm it i s far t e n d e re r
tha n t h e mo st te n d e r j o i n t tha t h a s b e e n hu n g a we e k in
E n glan d Th e ta st e i s p e rha p s fro m i magi n a ti o n ra the r
.
, ,

d i sa gre e ab l e a t first but fa r o th e rwi se wh e n o n e ge ts ac cu s

,

t o m e d t o it a n d I ca n re a dily be li e v e th a t ra w me a t wo ul d

b e pre fe rre d t o co o k e d m e a t by a ma n wh o fro m childh o o d

h a d be e n a c custo me d t o it .

I t wo uld a ppe a r tha t th e A byssi n ia n s h a ve a littl e im

’
r d i n huma n ity s i n ce B ruc e s ti me H e sa y s sp e a kin
p o v e g.
,

o f t h e man n e r i n w hich ca ttl e a re kill e d a n d o f t h e butche r , ,

I s ho uld b e g h i s p ard o n i n d e e d fo r ca lli n g h im an

, ,

Th e w o rd s are , B is m A b , o u We l d , o u Me n fn s K o ud d o s S al t, .

l i
I be e , p v e re t en d s t o co rre c t B ru c e
’
s e rro r i n t h e se w o rd s —b ut I cann o t
re fe r t o i t a t o n ce i f h e d o e s, h e is w ro n g fo r h e h i m se l f h as ma d e a
s h o c k i n g mess o f i — ’
t an d e Val e n ti a s Tra v e ls , v o l i ii p 1 3 6 , w h e re h e
'

. . .

sa ys , p r o nounc i ng at m Me
e ti me,sa B i s m Ul la /r Gush er M en es
’
fi
K ed n s , a s ty le of i n voca t i on tlz a t seems to be dor r o wod fr om l lz e fl ll ow ers qf
’
M o /za n n ne N ow
”
B i s m U llah , o r ra th e r B is m I l lah i , i s th e A rab i c
”
fo r
“
I n th e n a me o f Go d , an d w o ul d o n n o a cco un t o r o c cas i o n b e

us e d b y a C h ri s ti a n A b yssi n i an I myse l f h a v e fre que n tly b e e n co r

.

re c t e d ra th e r sh arply b y t h e m w h e n fro m h a b i t I h a v e a c c i d e n t a lly use d

’
th is e x pre ss i o n , o r A l h a md u l I lla h i ( th an ks b e t o Go d ), an d h a v e
n e v e r suc ce e d e d in pro v i n g t o t h e m th a t i t m a t t e re d n o t w h e th e r G o d

w e re cal le d b y th e n ame o f Al l ah o r I z gyh e i r ( as th e Tigre pe o ple h a v e

it) . Th e y al w a ys in s is t th a t t o us e t h e se w o rd s is t a n ta m o un t to d e
e la t i n g o n ese lf a Mo h amm e d a n G ue b ra Me n fus K e d us,
”
. o r ( as I

s h o ul d w ri t e i t ) Ga b ro Me n fus K o ud d o us, i s t h e n am e o f an A b yss i n i an

sai n t o f grea t re put e , an d m e a n s Th e S la v e o f th e H o ly G h o st so

’
t h a t Mr S a l t s i n v o c at i o n , i f tran sl a t e d fro m t h e t w o l a n gua ge s w h i ch
.

c o m po se i t , w o uld b e i n E n gli sh , I n t h e n a me o f G o d , t h e S l a v e o f
”
t h e H o l y Gh o st .
20 4 LIFE 11V A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXI I .

i
a ssa ss n , a s h e is not so me rc i fi1 1 li fe b ut
as to ai m at th e , ,

o n t h e c o n tra ry t o k e e p t h e b e a st a liv e till h e b e t o tally

,

e a t e n up H a vi n g sa ti sfi e d th e Mo saical law a cc o rding to

.
,

h is c o n ce pti o n by p o urin g th e se si x o r se v e n d ro p s upon

,

t h e gro u n d two o r m o r e o f th e m fa ll t o w o rk
, o n t h e back

o f t h e b e a st a n d o n e a ch sid e o f th e spi n e
, th e y cut skin ,

d e e p th e n putti n g th e ir fi n ge rs b e twe e n th e fl e sh a n d the

s ki n th e y b e gi n t o strip t h e hid e o f t h e a n i m a l h a l f wa
, y
d o wn it s ribs an d s o o n t o th e butt o ck cutti n g t h e skin
, ,

wh e re v e r i t hi n d e r s th e m c o mmo di o u sl y t o s trip t h e poor

a n i ma l b ar e A ll th e fl e sh o n th e butt o ck s i s th e n cut off
.
,

a n d i n so lid s qu are pi e c e s with o ut b o n e s o r m uch e ffu si on

, , ,

o f bl o o d ; a n d t h e pro di gi o u s n o i se th e a n i m a l m a k e s is a

s i gn a l fo r t h e c o mp an y t o si t d o wn t o ta bl e
”
A n d again .
,

a ft e r d e scribi n g t h e fe as t h e c o n ti n u e s , All thi s ti me the

u n fo rtun a t e victi m a t t h e d o o r i s bl e e din g i n d e e d but ,

bl e e di n g lit t le A s l o n g as the y ca n cut o ff t h e fl e sh from

.

h i s b o n e s th e y d o n o t m e ddl e with t h e thigh s o r t h e parts

,

wh e r e t h e gr e a t a rte ri e s a re A t l a st th e y fa ll up o n the
.

thigh s lik e wi s e ; a n d s o o n afte r t h e a n ima l bl e e di ng to , ,

d e ath be c o me s s o t o ugh tha t th e ca n n iba l s w h o ha ve the

, ,

re st o f it t o e a t fin d it v e ry ha rd wo rk t o se p a ra t e t h e flesh
,

fro m t h e b o n e s with th e i r t e e th lik e d o gs

”
I mu s t say I .

n e v e r sa w a n
y s uch cru e lty pra cti se d i n my t i m e .

I h av e b e e n o ft e n a sk e d ab o ut tfie stea k out f r o m t/i e lire

cow ,
a n d h a v e o n ly t o sa y o n c e fo r all [ fir mly bel i e ve tlm
,
t ,

B r uce s a w w iza t li e lzo s s ta ted Whil e I wa s i n A byssinia a

.
,

so ldi e r i n c o n v e rs a ti o n w ith me a n d se ve r a l o th e rs vo lu
,
n
,
’
t e e re d a st o ry quit e simila r t o B ruc e s b o th a s re ga rds the ,

ma n n e r o f th e o p e ra ti o n a n d th e re a so n s wh y it wa s per
fo rm e d O n i n quiry h e s a id tha t such a pra ctic e was not
.
,

u n co mmo n amo n g th e Ga ll a s a n d e ve n o cca s i o n ally oc ,

curre d a mo n g th e mse lv e s wh e n a s i n th e ca se B ruc e re lates

, ,

a c o w h a d b e e n st o l e n o r t a k e n i n fo ra y Th e me n who .

driv e h e r be i n g hu n gry h av e n o a lt e rn a tiv e but t o go on

, ,

fasti n g kill t h e c o w o r a c t a s d e scrib e d

, , Th e fi rs t they .

will n o t d o t h e se c o n d w o uld i mply t h e n e c e s s ity o f can) !

3 06 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . C R AP . XXI I .

’
th e drumme rs an d quah my, a sma ll pi e ce o fl e a ch por

me a t a z mary, o r b uflo o n , cl a i ms the

”
Th e
'

ti o n o f th e .

g ri s tl e fro m t h e
“
f rjm b i a T h e s
. crib e ,
w h o w rit e s t h e ac

c o u n t s o f t h e fo o d , h a s fo r h i s a ll o wa n c e a s m a ll pi e ce of

me a t fro m t h e sh o uld e r, n e a r t h e
”
shi n t T h e coo ks .

”
have th e shi mfilla , a pa rt n e a r th e trip e Th e ribs are .

o r bro il e d, o n t h e e mb e rs o f a w o o d fire
”
e a te n t ib s y , -
.

Th e hu mp i s a n o th e r privil e ge o f gre a t m e n o n ly a n d the

mo st re n o wn e d wa rri o r a mo n g th e m h as th e firs t cut at it .

The y fre qu e n tly k ee p up a fri e n dly c o n tro ve rs y fo r a long

time b e fo re an y o n e ca n b e p e rsua d e d t o put a k n ife i n to it,
e a ch p o lit e ly o f fe ri n g t o h i s n e ighb o ur t h e p o s t o f h o n our .

It so me ti me s b e co me s a ma tt e r o f se ri o u s d i s put e , an d is
su gge stive o f th a t which wa s o cca si o n e d by th e fruit o f pure

H e spe ri a n go ld tha t wa s ca st up o n th e b o a rd i n t h e fair “

P e l e l an b a n qu e t h a ll fo r as t h e a ppl e w a s e n gra ve d o n its

‘

m m
”
g l e a i n g ri n d F o r t h e m o s t fa ir,
s o th e hu p b e ar s on

F o r t h e mo st r e n o w n e d
”
it s fla b b y re d surfa ce An .

i n sta n c e o f th i s o n c e o ccurre d i n th e pa l a ce o f t h e fo rmer

Th e A mhara w a rri o rs w e re un
'

Ras G o uxa , A li s fa th e r .
°

d e c id e d a s t o th e man wh o sh o uld first a tta ck thi s b o n e of

c o n t e n ti o n w h e n t h e l a t e N e b re e t W e ld a S e la s s y s e ttl e d the
.

po i n t by d rawin g h is swo rd a n d h e lpi n g hi ms e l f : thi s he

did n o d o u b t a s b e i n g th e o n ly Tigrean pre s e n t h e was
, . . ,

a n xi o u s t o ta k e t h e h o n o ur t o hi mse l f fr o m a fe e li ng of

p atri o ti s m B ut t h e A mh ara chi e ft ai n s did n o t b e ar the

.

a ffro n t qui e tly : a qu a rre l was i mme di a t e ly fix e d o n t h e Tigre

cha mpi o n by th e warri o rs o f t h e ri va l n a ti o n t wo o f whom ,

mo re e s pe ci a lly t o o k it up an d h e wa s chall e n ge d t o prove

,

t h e s up e ri o rity h e h a d a rro ga t e d t o hi ms e lf by fighting ,

the m Thi s h e did in a way which l e ft th e m n o roo m for

.

c o mpla i n i n g : h e fo ught the m b o th o n ho rse b a ck and , ,

’
w h at s mo re kill e d th e m b o th
, F o r t h i s h o w e v e r h e had
.
, ,

t o fly t h e c o u n try ; as a lth o ugh h e h a d v a n qui sh e d his

,

a dv e rsa ri e s i n fa i r fi ght th e ir fri e n d s an d re l a t iv e s w e re for

,

ta kin g up th e ca use a n d n a ti o n a l j e a l o usy b e i n g a wake ned

, , ,

h is li fe w o uld d o ubtl e ss ha v e b e e n sa crific e d h a d h e fallen

in t o th e ir ha n d s .
 C HAP . XXI I . M A N N E RS AN D C US TOM S . 207

Th e c o w, diffe re n t va ri e ti e s o f t h e ga z e ll e an d
an d

a n t e l o p e tribe are th e o n ly a n i ma l s which a re e a te n ra w

, ,

e xc e pt i n c e rta in di strict s o f A bys si n i a as fo r i n sta n c e , ,

”
Sim ye n whe re t h e fl e s h o f th e sp a ye d go a t
,
mo uque t )
Th e mutt o n
”
i s a l so c o n sid e re d e ligibl e fo r b ro un d o .
,

a t Ad o ua e sp e ci a lly i s o f v e ry i n fe ri o r qu ality b e i n g a s
, ,

t o u gh as l e athe r o f abo ut a s fin e grai n as a co a rse w o rst e d

,

s t o cki n g ; an d i f yo u c o uld fin d t h e mi n ut e s t p a rticl e o f fa t

'

’
o n it e v e n with t h e a id o f a micro sc o p e d o n t e a t it up a t
, ,

o n ce ,
but k e e p ha l f o f it till t o mo rro w l e st yo u sh o uld -
,

n e v e r a ga i n ha v e such g o o d luck Mutto n is e ith e r ch o pp e d .

up a n d ste we d with t h e p e pp e ry sa uc e I h a v e b e fo re d e
s crib e d o r bro il e d o n th e e mb e rs b ut n e v e r e a t e n ra w
, , .

ma n ta y h amo t o r
” ”
Th e “
c h o ge ra i s a di sh pre p a re d
, ,

o f t h e trip e an d liv e r cut i n t o s ma ll pi e c e s Th e c o n t e n ts o f .

t h e ga ll bl add e r a re th e n s qu e e z e d o v e r it a s a l so a p a rt
-
,

o f t h e h a l f dig e st e d gre e n ma tt e r fo u n d i n t h e i n t e sti n e s o f

-

t h e a n i ma l Thi s di sh a fte r ha vi n g b e e n duly se aso n e d

.
,

w i t h p e pp e r sa lt & c ,
a n d a littl e wa rme d till it a cquire s
, .
, ,

t h e n a tu ra l h e a t o f t h e a n i ma l i s e a t e n with t h e gre a te st ,

gu s t o n o t o n ly by th e p o o r b ut e v e n by t h e gre a t e st chi e fs
, ,

i n t h e c o un try Thi s pre p ara ti o n i s a l so much e st e e me d

.

a l l o v e r N ubi a Se n n aa r a n d K o rd o fan o n ly w ith a trifli n g

, , ,

v a ri a ti o n i n th e se c o un tri e s wh e re th e y di sp e n se with t h e ,

gre e n ma tte r an d wa rmin g b ut a dd ra w o n i o n s ch o pp e d

”
, ,

a n d chili s i n st e a d o f ca p sic ums My d e scripti o n will n o .

,

d o ubt h a ve alre a dy sufli c e d t o di sgust man y o f my re a d e rs

, ,

e s p e ci a lly th o s e o f th e fa ir se x ; so th a t I d a re n o t pr e su me

t o re qu e st th e m t o try a di sh o f thi s same c h o ge ra Still .

it is an e a ta bl e di sh ; n ay v e rily a p ala t abl e di sh ; an d it , ,

h a th mo re o ve r a qu a li ty fo r i n duci n g me n t o p a rta k e fre e ly

, ,

o f t h e cu p w hich a l wa y s a cc o mp a n i e s it .

F ro m t h e fo re go in g d e scripti o n s o f t h e b ro un do a n d
”
c h o ge ra o f t h e A bys si n i an s o n e i s a pt t o run a wa y with ,

t h e i m pre ssi o n th a t th e s e p e o pl e a re by n o me a n s d e lic a t e

i n th e ir c h o ic e o f fo o d whil e i n truth n o n a ti o n i s mo re
, , ,

s crupul o u sly so a fte r i t s o wn fa shi o n B e sid e s re fusi n g a ll .

a n i m a l s w hich ha v e t e e th i n th e ir upp e r
j a w — a s t h e h a r e ;
z ro LI F E I N A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXI I .

”
an d o t ,h e r d ishe s whil e b ro all
un do, th re e a re ea t e n with
as we use mu sta rd o r sal t
”
o r th e t ib sy . Al th o ugh voge .

t abl e s such as ca rro ts , pa rsn ip s, & c , e xi st i n a wi l d state

. .

in ma n y pa rts o f A byssi n i a, t h e n a tiv e s can b e sca rc e ly said

to us ethe m ; fo r the y o n ly e a t an d this b ut fo r t wo or ,

thre e mo n ths in t h e ye a r a he rb ca ll e d h a mly o r goom , ,

me n th e tas te o f which slightly re se mble s spi na c h ‘

This
"
. .

an d l e n til s co o k e d i n th e ir h o rribl e o i l
. w hi c h fro m its ,

d ryi n g p ro p e rti e s is mo re like va rn i sh a n d w hi c h th e y call ,

are th e fa vo urite di sh es durin g so me of

”
k iw y n yh o ke ,

t h e fas ts .

Milk i s ve ry s ca rce in t h e to wn o f Ad o ua I paid a .

d o lla r a mo n th fo r th e milk o f a co w whi c h ra re ly yielded ,

me mo re than b e t we e n half a pi n t an d a pin t d aily For .

mo re than a yea r I gave up me at an d my fo o d co n sisted ,

a lto ge th e r o f cl o tte d milk (ca ll e d h e re ro go ) wi th b read

”
,

an d fl avo u re d with h o n e y o r p e pp e r by way o f ch a n ge A .

j a r ,
w hi c h w h e n n e w i s sm o k e d i s k e pt o n p ur p o se for ,

clo tti n g th e mil k to which o n b e in g first put i n to it a

, , ,

litt l e so ur milk is add e d t o assi st in t urn in g it When .

cl o tte d it is p o u re d o ut fo r use ; but th e jar i s n e ve r washed.

’
t h e re mai n s o f th e pre c e d in g da y s ro go b e in g sufficimt
”

’
t o t um th e e v e n i n g s fre sh milk i n to a cl o t li k e a j elly , ,

b e fo re mo rn i n g Th e n a tive s al so mak e a b a d i mi ta tio n of

.

” '
c h e e se which th e y ca ll
,
ajo uv o Thi s a n d th e rogo “
.

th e y al ways e a t with th e ir fa vo urite p e pp e r d illikh knead ”

,

te fl bre a d ca k e s in to it ti ll th ey mak e a still

’
”
i n g th e ir
p as t e which th e y ro ll up i n t o l o n g pe ll e ts a n d p o ke into
, ,
’
th e ir o wn o r th e ir n e ighbo ur s mo uth So m e ti me s how .
,

e ve r th e se pre pa ra ti o n s o f milk a re se rve d up a t dinner

,

with t h e o th e r di sh e s a n d tak e n i n mo uthfii ls alte rnately

, ,

with t h e fi e ry st e w a c t mo st agre e ably as a c oo l e r to i t

,
.

N o t quit e th ree c e n turi e s ago o ur o wn ki tch e n -ga rd e ns were little

ti ll t h e e n d o f H en ry the
”
b e t te r suppl i e d I t was n o t, s ays H ume ,
.

’
E i gh th s re i gn th a t an y sal ad s, ca rro ts , turn i ps, o r o th e r e dib le root
w e re pro d uced i n E n glan d th e li t tl e o f th ese vege tab l e s th at was used
w as i mpo rt ed fro m H o l lan d an d F lan d e rs —Q u ee n C a th e ri ne, WM
sh e w an t e d a s al ad , w as o b lige d to d espatch a messe n ge r th i ther 0'
”
purpo se .
C HAP . XXI I . MA N N E RS AN D C US TOM S . 211

B utt e r i s ld e ithe r fre sh t o b e u se d a s p o ma tu m fo r

so ,

t h e ha ir o r pre p a re d fo r k e e pi n g a n d kitche n use This ‘

, .

i s d o n e by simply b o ilin g th e fre sh butt e r i n a large v e sse l

till t h e scum ri se s A p e rso n i s k e pt wa tchi n g t o skim thi s
.

o ff as fa st as it a pp e a rs o n t h e surfa c e u n til th e butt e r

, ,

re m a i n s quit e cl e a r lik e o il wh e n it i s c o o l e d an d l e ft fo r
, ,

us e a n d a lwa ys re ta in s i ts liquid sta t e

, This mo d e o f cla ri .

fyi n g butt e r is a d o pt e d thro ugh o ut Se nn aa r K o rd o fan & c , ,

.
,

a n d e v e n i n Egypt a n d i s v e ry u se ful a s t h e butt e r thu s

, ,

pre pa r e d may b e ke pt fo r an y l e n gth o f ti me an d i ts fl avo ur ,

i s but slightly i n fe ri o r t o fre sh butt e r .

A by ssin ia ma y i n de e d bo a st o f h e r h o n e y which sh e pro ,

du c e s n o t o n ly in gre a t qu an titi e s but a l so o f th e fi n e st ,

qu a lity Th e re i s b o th wild an d d o me stic h o n e y : th e

.

la tte r h o we ve r i s far sup e ri o r t o th e fo rme r which (e xc e pt

, , ,

i n g th e o n e o r two virgin c o mb s fo u n d in e a ch n e st) i s o f a

d ull dirty bro wn c o lo ur a n d h a s n o t th e same stre n gth o f
, , ,

s we e tn e ss o r fl a vo ur a s th e d o me stic h o n e y Th e wild b e e s .

a re usu ally fo un d in h o ll o w tre e s i n t h e lo w ra vi n e s mo re ,

e sp e ci a lly in th o se ca ll e d th e dima who se n ature it i s ,

t o b e co me h o ll o w wh e n th e y a tta i n a c e rt a i n gro wth A .

l i tt l e bro wn lo o ki n g bird with a small ye ll o w sp o t o n e a ch

-
,

win g ca ll e d th e b e e fin de r i s a sure guid e t o p e rso n s wh o

,
-
,

are i n search o f wild h o n e y ; fo r if th e y a tt e n d t o h i s me rry

c h irp as h e flutt e rs fr o m tre e t o tr ee h e will so o n c o n duct ,

t h em t o th e swe e t b o o ty th e y a re se e ki n g Th e wild h o n e y .

i s ge n e rally u se d fo r makin g mese o r

”
t e dge Th e .

d o me sti c h o n e y is so me ti me s k e pt fo r a ye a r o r two b e fo re
i t is e xp o se d fo r sal e a n d a t th e e xpira ti o n o f tha t ti me i s
,

o fte n fo un d to ha v e se ttl e d d o wn i n t h e ja r an d b e c o me ,

a so li d mass On c e o r twice I hav e re c e ive d h o n e y a s a

.

r s e t o r h a v e b o ught it i n th e ma rk e t i n such a s ta t e o f
p e n , ,

so lidi t y th at I h a d gre a t di fli c ult y in cutti n g it with a kn i fe

n o r c o ul d I fa irly ge t at it w ith o ut br e a ki n g t h e j a r wh e n ,

i t ca me o ut a so lid lump o f a p a l e straw c o l o ur appro a chi n g

,
-
,

t o white M o re fre qu e n tly h o we v e r it i s fo u n d i n a se mi

.
, ,

l iquid s ta t e o f a p a l e l e mo n c o l o ur c o n ta i n i n g whit e c rys ta l

,
-
,

li z e d lumps so e xc ee di n gly swe e t tha t I h a d c o n sid e ra bl e

, ,

P 2
2 12 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P XXI I . .

di fficulty in e ati n g a bit th e siz e o f a wa ln ut ; an d I t e

me mb e r a p e rs o n wh o b e ca me ill o n ta ki n g a so me what
la rge r qua n tity .

F o r dri n k t h e Abyssin i an s h av e th e ir t e dg e
, or mé se
“
,

( a s t h e Ti gr e p e o pl e c a ll it) a n d th e ir di f
f e,
r e n t s o rt s o f
be e r Th e ge n e ral n ame o f thi s l a tt e r b e v e ra g e i s in the
.

Tigre l an gu a ge so ua a n d i n th e Amharic ta ll a
,
”
The
mese i s a ki n d o f me a d : i t s n a me h a s a n a fli n i ty t o the
“ ”

Ge rman me th ; wh e n c e o ur me ad i s d e riv e d I t i s thus .

pre pa re d — O n e p a rt o f h o n e y i s mix e d w i t h fiv e o r six

p a rts o f wat e r a cco rdi n g t o th e stre n gth r e quir e d This
, .

h o n e y wa t e r i s put i n to a n a rro w mo uthe d ja r w ith a little

- -

” ”
t sa dd o o (a so rt o f bitt e r b a rk
) g e ( bitt r h rb )
“
o r s o a ,e e ,

which i n thi s c o mp o un d are an a l o go u s t o h o p s i n b e e r

, ,
It .

i s th e n l e ft i n t h e sun till fit fo r dri n ki n g w hich d e pe nds ,

much o n t h e t e mp e ra ture o f t h e we a th e r Th e crit e ri o n of .

i t s b e i n g re a dy i s th a t t h e liqu o r h a s fe rme n t e d t o such a

d e gre e a s t o ha v e n e a rly l o st i t s o rigi n a l sw e e t n e ss I have .

h e a rd thi s b e v e rage prai se d by so me Euro p e a n s ; b ut as

ma d e by t h e n a tive s it wa s a l way s t o o bitt e r fo r m y ta ste :
an d i n thi s r e sp e ct it se e ms I a m n o t s i n gul a r fo r B ru ce ,

c o mpl ai n s tha t it a l ways ga ve h i m a h e a d a ch e It n o t un .

fre que n tly h a s t h e e ffe ct o f an ap e ri e n t o n p e rso n s unac

cu st o me d t o it Th e A byssin ia n s h o we v e r ge t thro ugh an
.
, ,

a l m o s t i n cre dibl e qu an ti ty I sh o uld b e a fra id t o m e ntion

.

’
t h e n u mb e r o f h o rn s tha t I h a ve h e a rd o f a ma n s dri n king
a t o n e sitti n g .

Th e so ua o r be e r
,
i s ma d e a s fo ll o ws z— Dago usha
,

fl o ur i s ma d e i n to a d o ugh with wat e r an d l e ft t o fe rment ,

fo r t w o o r th re e w e e k s duri n g which ti me th e y fu migate it

,

w ith t h e smo k e o f va ri o u s ki n d s o f wo o d such as i n the ,

” ”
Tigre l a n gu age are call e d a ga m
”
ta rso s “
o wl eh ,
“
,
“
,

ma b t é ”
A ft e r thi s th e d o ugh i s divi ded
”
,
t c h a n d ak &c , .

i n t o ca k e s a n d b ak e d o n a fla t iro n a n d th e d ay fo ll o wing a ,

mi x ture o f b arl e y flo ur a n d wa t e r i s ma d e, w hich t o ge ther

-

with th e c a k e s i s put i n t o a l a rge ja r o f w a t e r ; t o this is

,

a dd e d a t t h e sa m e ti me a small qua n tity o f t h e bitter

“
geso . A ft e r b e i n g a ll o we d t o r e ma i n qui e t fo r a few
2 14 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXI I .

’
p arty but a t such an e sta bli sh me n t as O ub i s so me times
e a ch gu e st wo uld ha v e thirty o r m o re ca k e s b e fo re him

Thi s i s so a rra n ge d b e ca u se th e n o bl e r gue st s a re first se ated

an d e at o f t h e fi n e s t bre a d ; th e n th o s e o f hu mb l e r rank

t ak e th e ir pl a ce s an d pa rta ke o f th e se co n d cla ss o f bread ;

an d so o n i n succ e ssi o n till t h e c o a rse st i s e a t e n by the

se rva n t s an d p o o r fri e n d s Th e ca k e s s up ply t h e pla ce of

.

n a pki n s a s t h e fi n ge rs o f th e u ts f r e qu tly w i d on
, g e s a re e n pe

th e m aft e r b e in g dipp e d in th e di sh o r r e n d e re d b l o o dy by
t h e raw me a t Thi s ho we ve r d o e s n o t in th e l e a s t affect
.
, ,

t h e app e tit e s o f th o se wh o c o mi n g afte r h a v e t o e a t them

, ,
.

Th e c o mpan y b e i n g a sse mbl e d t h e mo st di s ti n gui s h e d per ,

so n a ge s a re r e qu e s t e d t o b e se a t e d an d a re pl a c e d a cc o rding ,

A gam
”
t o th e ir r an k by t h e Sh e lika z ifan b e yt or
“
i
”
A d de ra sh two dign ita ri e s o f w h o se duti e s & c
, w e will , .
,

mo re fully sp e ak in t h e pro p e r pl a c e A go o d d e a l o f po lite .

n e ss s o me ti me s e n su e s a s t o pre c e d e n ce b ut a ll b e in g at , ,

la st se ttl e d d o wn in th e ir pl ac e s th e so ub h é o r c oo ked ”
,
-

di sh e s are bro ught in by th e co o k wo men e a ch o f whom ,

r e ce iv e s a pi e ce o f bre a d dipp e d in th e di sh sh e h as ca rried .

Th e se a re plac e d o n th e tabl e a cco rdin g t o th e ir qu a li ty the ,

”
b e st n e a re st t h e t o p a n d th e a salafy o r w a it e rs take a !
, ,

pi e c e o f bre a d fr o m b e fo re e a ch p e rso n an d s o ppi n g it in , ,

t h e sa uc e re turn it t o h im
,
The y a l so se rv e t h e gu e sts with
.

m e a t fro m t h e di sh e s cutti n g o r with th e ir fin ge rs t t e aring

, ,
-

it in to pi e c e s o f a c o n ve n i e n t size ; an d i n d o i n g this
Th e o ffice of asa la fy i n A b yssi n i a w o uld s ee m to c o rre spond
” ” ”
w i th t h a t of th e s c i ss o r, d i ri b i t o r the
“ “
n e a rly ca rpt o r, or of

an c i e n t s .

l I i magi n e th e re
' '
c an be no n ee d fo r me t o say th a t fo rk s are not
us e d i n A b yss i n ia m o re th an
an y th e y are i n o th e r e as t e rn co un tries,
e x ce pt a mo n g a fe w o f t h e Turk s , w h o h a ve ve ry l a t e ly b o rro wed their
use fro m th e F ran k s .

Ma n y o f my fri e n d s h a v e as k e d me i f I h ad e ve r eat e n w i t h my fingers

a n d w h e n I re pl i e d t h a t I h a d d o n e so fo r mo re th an s i x ye a rs , an d that
'
e v e n w h e n i n E gypt I c o n t i n ue d t o d o so p pq
a r r fé r en c e
”
i n my own

l o dgi n gs , a n d up t o t h e d a y I go t o n b o a rd th e st ea me r w h i ch was to
co n v e y m e h o m e w a rd , t h e y a ppe a re d a s t o n ish e d , n ay, e v e n h o rrified .

S o m e o f my re a d e rs m a y b e ign o ran t o f th e fa ct th at w i th i n th e last two

ce n t uri e s fo rk s w e re ra re i n E n gl an d .
C HA P . XXI I . MA N N E R S AND C US TOM S . 2 15

t h e y fre qu e n tly sh o w fav o uriti sm, giv in g th e

gre a t ki dn e ys
an d tit bits t o o n e
-
,
an d t h e gri stl e an d bo n e s t o a n o th e r .

Th e y are ve ry a tte n tive n e ve r a llo win g an y o n e t o b e a ,

mo me n t u n suppli e d Th e gu e s t s tak e the ir bre a d an d sauce

.

an d mi x th e m t o ge th e r i n t o a so rt o f p a st e o f w hich th e y ,

mak e ba ll s l o n g an d ro u n d e d lik e sma ll bla ck puddi n gs :

,

th e se th e y co n sid e r it p o lite t o p o ke in t o t h e mo uths o f th e ir

n e ighb o urs ; so tha t if o u h a pp e n t o b e a di s ti n gui sh e d
y ,

chara cte r o r a st ran ge r t o who m the y wi sh t o pay a tte n ti o n

, ,

whi ch o fte n was my ca se yo u a re in a v e ry di sa gre e abl e ,

p o siti o n fo r yo ur two n e ighb o urs o n e o n e ach sid e cram

, , ,

in t o y o ur mo uth th e se l a rge an d p e pp e ry pro o fs o f th e ir

e s t e e m so quickly on e a ft e r t h e o the r tha t l o n g be fo r e yo u , ,

ca n ch e w an d swall o w t h e o n e yo u a re o blig e d t o ma k e ,

ro o m fo r th e n e xt The y ge n e ra lly succ e e d in ha lf cho kin g

.

y o u ; an d i f yo u fe e l yo u ar e l o si n g t h e s ki n o f y o ur
mo uth li ps an d thro a t fro m th e fi e ry e ffe cts o f th e p e pp e r
, , ,

y o u d a e
r n o t a s k fo r wa t e r as th a t w o u ld b,
e c o n sid e re d
rud e ; an d t h e me ad i s se ld o m se rve d till th e di n n e r i s o ve r .

Whi l e t he se di she s which a re ge n e rally mad e o f mutto n are

, ,

o n th e ta bl e th e c o w i s kill e d an d fl aye d o ut sid e ; a n d im

,

me di a te ly ou the ir re mo val t h e ”
b ro un do i s bro ught in ,

e a c h se rvan t ca rryin g a ye t u iv e rin g lu mp i n hi s h an d s

q .

Th e ch o ic e st pie c e s are carrie d t o th e high e st ta bl e s wh e re ,

are sea te d th e mast e r o f t h e fe a s t an d th e mo st di sti n gui sh e d

g u e s t s . Th e r e i s u su a lly a pi e c e o f m e a t t o e v e ry fi v e o r s i x

p e rs o n s amo n g who m a ri se s so me sh o w o f c e re mo n y a s t o
,

w hich o f the m shall first h e lp himse l f ; thi s b e in g at l e n gt h

d e cid e d th e pe rso n cho se n tak e s h o ld o f th e me a t with h is
,

l e ft han d an d with h is swo rd o r kn i fe cut s a strip a fo o t o r

,

fift e e n in che s l o n g fro m th e p a rt which a pp e a rs t h e n ic e st a n d

te n d e re st Th e o th e rs th e n h e lp the mse lv e s in lik e man n e r
. .

I f I sh o ul d fail in d e scribin g pro p e rly th e sc e n e which

’
n o w fo ll o ws I mu st r e qu e s t th e a i d o f th e r e a d e r s i magi n a
,

ti o n Le t h i m picture t o himse lf thirty o r fo rty Aby ssi n i an s,

.

stripp e d t o th e ir wa i st s s qu a ttin g ro u n d t h e lo w t a bl e s e a ch
, ,
”
with hi s sw o rd o r kn i fe o r sh o t e l i n h i s h an d so me ,

eati n g so me h e lpi n g th e ms e lv e s a n d so me wa iti n g th e ir

, ,
2 16 LI F E I N AB YS S I N I A . CE L E XXII .

tum, b ut all b eari ng in th e ir fe a ture s t h e e x pre ss i on o f tln t

fie rce l utt o n y wh i c h o n e a ttri bu tes m o re t o t h e lion or
g
le o pard th a n t o the race of Ada m . The ima gin a ti o n msy
be m uc h a ss is t e d b y th e i da o f th e l umps o f ra w pi n h and

h o w th e y ea t th e strip o f mea t which I ha ve jus t ma de o e

n
o f th e pa rty cut o ff . A quan tity o f dillikh o r an t
be i ng la id o n h is bread, h e dip s o n e en d o f fire ma t in to it,
an d th en , se i z i n g it be twe e n his te e th, wh fle h e h o lds m
o t h e r e n d in h i s l e ft han d, h e cu ts a hi t 0 5 c l o se to his
2 18 LI F E I N AB YS S I N I A . CH AP . XXII .

ven t th e bits o f wax bark an d o th e r e xtran e o us m a tt e r from

, ,

falli n g i n to th e drin ki n g ve sse l s whe n th e m e a d i s po ured

”
o ut . The se ve sse ls are t h e wan cha o r h o rn s ( c o mmonly ,

u se d in th e c o un t ry but mo re o ft e n fo r b e e r tha n fo r mead)

, ,

c o mmo n t umbl e r s an d a so rt o f bo ttl e fro m V e n i c e called

,

brill é Th e o fli ce o f p o uri n g o ut th e me a d d e v o lves on

.
”

”
o n e o f th e
“
lo go ua 11 wh o brin gs in th e ja r H e supports
1y .

i t un de r h i s arm rai si n g an d l o we ri n g i t t o fill th e w an cha,

" “
,
”
which are h e ld by an o the r se rvan t ca ll e d th e ,
fe IIAky who ,

k ee p s ta ppin g o r scra tchin g t h e rag wi th h i s fin ge r to faci ,

li ta t e t h e fr e e flo w o f t h e liqu o r U n d e r t h e m o ut h of the
.

j a r i s a b o w l t o ca tch th e dro ppi n g s w hich a r e

, t h e p erq uisite
o f th e fe llaky .
”
It i s e asy fo r this fi mct i o n a ry t o appro
prlat e t o hi mse lf o n e glass o ut o f e ve ry fiv e o r six if he ,

kn o ws h o w t o a rran ge ma tte rs with th e l o go uamy who ”

,

ho lds th e jar so tha t h e may ke e p p o urin g o n a l ittle after

e a ch v e sse l i s fi ll e d B e sid e s t hi s h e h a s th e ri ght ti
.
,

e mptyi n g i n t o h i s r e se rv o ir a b o ut o n e i n ch o f t h e li qu or
fro m e v e ry wan cha fill e d (which i s a goo d d ea l as they
”
,

are ve ry br o a d a t th e mo uth an d n arro w d o w n wa rd s) and ,

fro m e ve ry brill é o r b o tt le t wo i n ch e s Th e first horn

”
.

p o ure d o ut i s drun k by th e lo go uamy wh o ho ld s t h e jar

”
,

an d t h e se c o n d by th e
“
te dge me lkén ia wh o h a s t h e super ,
”
i n t e n d e n ce o f th e bre we ry Th e fe llaky t h e n a rranges
.

t h e h o rn s o n t h e gro un d n e a r h im as fast a s th e y a re filled ,

o r wa it e r taki n g th e m up dri n ks one

”
an d t h e a sa lafy , , ,

hi mse l f th e n pre se n t s o n e t o th e maste r o f t h e h o u se and

, ,

aft e rwa rd s h an d s th e m ro u n d t o th e c o mpan y B efore .

o ffe ri n g a gl a ss t o a n y o n e t h e wa it e r p o urs a littl e o f the

co n t e n ts in t o h i s l e ft ha n d an d drin ks it o ff thi s with all ,

th e fo rme r ta sti n g by th e bre we r gra ss cutt e r w a ite r & c its

,
-
, ,
.
,

t o sh o w tha t t h e me a d i s n o t p o i so n e d N o twith s ta nding

.
,

ho we ve r a ll th e se pre ca uti o n s D ejatch Oubi n e ve r drinks

, ,

wi th o ut first p o uri n g a littl e o f t h e liqu o r o n t h e ground,

ca re fully turn i n g th e v e sse l ro un d at th e sa me ti me so as to ,

re mo ve an y p o i so n tha t might b e co n ce a l e d o n its edges .

H e se ld o m d rin k s mo re tha n a qu a rt e r o f h i s gl a s s a n d then ,

re turn s it . Oth e r p e rso n s dri n k ab o ut tw o thirds the -

,
C HA P . x x 11 . MA N N E RS A N D C US TOM S . 2 19

re m a i n d e r b e in g t h e p e rqui sit e o f th e wa it e r wh o a s so o n , ,

as t h e glas s i s re turn e d t o h im dri n ks o ff t h e c o n t e n t s He

, .

’
wo uld n o t ho we ve r pre sume t o put h i s mas t e r s cup t o h i s
, ,

lip s but ra i sin g i t a b o ve h i s he ad p o urs th e c o n t e n ts in t o h is

,

mo uth fro m a di stan ce Thi s fe a t i s ra the r difli c ult t o pe r

.

fo rm fo r i f h e h as n o t th e kn a ck o f l e tti n g t h e me a d flo w
,

s tra i ght d o wn hi s thro a t wi t h o ut a tt e mpti n g t o swa ll o w h e

, ,

mu s t cho ke an d if h e h a s n o t th e d e xte ri ty t o give a right

d ir e cti o n t o th e stre a m it will pro b a bly b e spilt do wn h i s
,
”
n e ck . I f it b e a wan cha it i s still mo re di ffi cult to
m an a ge o n a cco un t o f th e bre a dth o f i ts mo u th
,
P e r so n s .

a n xi o u s t o sh o w fa v o ur t o an y pa rticula r se rva n t wi ll p o ur

m e a d in to h i s t wo han d s which h e h o ld s lik e a tro ugh t o hi s

,

m o u th whe n ce h e i mbib e s it ; but sh o uld t h e mast e r b e a

,

m a rti n et lik e Oubi fo r e x ampl e t h e se rv an t wo uld n o t

, , ,

v e n tur e t o e x hibit an y s uch fe a t s b e fo r e h im but w o uld p o ur ,

t h e liqu o r i n t o so me o th e r v es se l b e fo r e dri n ki n g it It may .

re a dily b e imagin e d tha t a t a l arg e p a rty a ll th e s e t o p s a n d

b o tt o ms o f glass e s wo uld fo rm to ge th e r a c o n sid e rabl e

”
q u a n t i ty a n d th
,
a t t h e a s a la fy w o uld h a v e as m uch a s h e

c o uld d o t o ca rry hi mse l f t o say n o thi n g o f th e gl a sse s we r e

, ,

h e t o dri n k a ll th a t fa ll s t o h i s s ha re so h e e ith e r di stribute s

i t t o h is fe ll o w se rvan t s o r c o ll e ct s it i n a b o wl fo r a gre a t
-
,

t ipp l e with h i s fri e n d s in th e e ve n i n g .

A t a fe as t Oubi s e ld o m Sp e a k s ma kin g kn o wn h i s w i sh e s ,
”
t o hi s asalafie s by si gn s F o r e xa mpl e ma n y o f h i s .
,

n s re mai n sta n di n g aga i n st

p ri n cip a l o ffi c e r s
( e v e n h i s o w n s o )
t h e w all cust o m an d fe a r mo re th a n a se n se o f r e sp e ct fo r
,

t h e i r ma ste r fo rbiddi n g th e m t o b e se a t e d in h i s pre se n c e

, .

O ub i then by a s ign wi th h i s fin ge r dire cts th e

, a sa lafy ,

t o gi v e bre ad t o such a o n e m e a d t o a n o th e r & c , , .

S in ce th e ba ttl e o f D e vra T a b o r h i s so n Le mma h as b e e n

a ll o w e d t o sit b e in g t h e e ld e s t as w e ll a s t h e fa v o urit e s o n
,

b ut Sheto u Guo n guo ul an d C arsa i all re ma i n stan di n g

, , , .

P o o r Sh eto u I b e li e ve fe e l s thi s pre fe re n c e o f Le mma

, ,

s e v e re ly ; fo r h e d o ubtl e ss c o n sid e rs hi mse lf a sup e ri o r m an

in e ve ry re sp e ct t o h is pu n y e ld e r bro th e r Whe n h e pre se n ts .

’
h im se lf a t hi s fa th e r s ta bl e which h e d o e s as se ld o m as ,
2 20 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXII .

p o ssibl e h e h as h i s fo o d give n to h im in a sma l l di sh c over

,
-
,
’
he ld by a littl e b o y o f h is fa the r s suit e fo r th e sa ke o f the ,
’
l e avin gs N e ithe r d o e s h e pre su me t o e n te r h i s fathers
.

pre se n ce with o ut fir st n o ti fyin g h i s a ppr o a ch a n d as king ,

p e rmi ssi o n Sh o uld h e do o the rwi se h e w o ul d p ro b ably be

.
,

to ld i n t h e mo st un ce re mo n i o u s way t o wa it o ut side or
, , ,

p e rha p s b e e ve n rud e ly pu sh e d ba ck S h eto u t o o has a .

, ,

ra th e r sla n g way o f dre ssin g wh ich gre a tly o ffe n ds his ,

fa th e r . So me ti me s h e c o me s in with o n e l e g o f h i s tro users

drawn up in th e pro p e r man n e r ab o ve h i s c a lf a n d t h e other ,

d an glin g d o wn a b o ut h i s an kl e O n such a n o ccasion it .

wo uld n o t b e a t a ll e xtra o rdi n a ry sh o uld O ubi a ft e r l oo king ,

at h im fix e dly a n d m h is u su al qui e t s mili n g m a n n e r be in

, g , ,

i n t h e pr e s e n c e o f a ll a ss e mbl e d We ll d o n e so n of a , ,

M o hamme d a n mo th e r ! Pre tty way o f we a ri n g y o ur bre eches.

’
i sn t it P So me n e w fa shi o n o f yo ur o wn e h ! A n d turning ,
”

t o th e
“
aga fa ri Turn h im o ut ; turn h i m o ut ! The
,
” “ ”

p o o r lad 1s put o ut in th e mo st n e ck an d cr o p m a n n e r and - -

,

re turn i n g to h i s t e n t h e bro o d s o ve r thi s tre a tm e n t an d vows ,

v e n ge an ce o n h is bro th e r Le mma wh o fro m b e ing the , ,

fa vo uri t e i s p a rtly t h e ca u se o f it
, .

A s s e rv an t s c o st but littl e in th e se c o u n tri e s e ither for ,

wag e s o r k e e p gr e a t me n ma i n ta i n a l a rg e e s ta bli shment

, .

A li st o f th e pri n cipa l d o m e stic s ma y h e re b e giv e n First .

’ ”
a re th e t w o b e lla dt in ka ta s t h e sup e ri o r o f w h o m h as the
,

d uty a ssign e d t o h i m o f a ssi stin g h i s mas t e r w ith h is advice

o n e v e ry o cca si o n t o t ry a ll mi n o r c a u se s th a t may be
,

bro ught to h im fo r j udgme n t ; a n d i n fa ct t o a ct as his , ,

’ ’—
c o u n se ll o r a n d a za e o e ca mp Th e se c o n d fill s th e po st of
-
.

h o use st e ward a rra n gi n g a ll ma tt e rs re ga rdin g t h e pa y of the

-
,

se rva n t s a n d o th e r h o u s e h o ld e xp e n se s Th e se t wo are .

’
t h e pri n cip al m e n o f e v e ry chi e f s s uit e an d u n l e s s highly ,

di stin gui sh e d vi sit o rs a re pr e se n t the y sit at h i s right hand

o n fe a s t d ay s
-
With th e se ma y b e cl asse d th e a ph a n egous
.

H e sits with th e m o n i mp o rta n t tri a l s ; an d h e a ri n g all that ,

p as se s re p o rt s it t o h i s ma st e r wh o a ft e r havi n g c o n sidered
, , ,

t h e ca se s e n d s h im b a ck t o t h e pl a c e o f j udgme n t wi th his
,

sh e lik a z i fan b e yt who is

”
s e n te n c e N e xt i n o rd e r i s t h e
.
,
222 LI F E I N A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXII .

of me n wh o till be a r th e m e t h o ugh th e y are become

s ,

th e pri n cipa l chiffra o f lan c e rs T h e i r c o mmander is .

call e d sh e lika Sh e ff z agry -

.

Th e se may b e co n sid e re d as th e pri n c i pa l o ffice rs about

t h e co urt o f a gre a t man wh o ha v e t h e rig h t o f i n ress and
, g
e gre s s t o h i s pre se n c e with o ut b e i n g an n o un c e d After .

th e se co me th e in fe ri o r do me stic serva n ts Th e “
az z adge
”
.

i s a so rt o f ma l e h o u se ke e p e r an d h a s t h e c h a rge an d dis
,

trib uti o n o f all th e pro vi si o n c o rn & c H e a n d t h e tedge

, , .
“

me lkén ia o r butl e r an d t h e
”
siggar s h e l i k a
”
, , wh o is o ver ,

th e me a t d e p a rtme n t a re un de r t h e dire c t i o n o f t h e second

,
’ ”
b e lla dt i n ka t a a s a l so a
, t o quo t a tary o r a cc o untant ,

wh o r e p o rt s all t h e in c o min gs an d o utgo i n g s o f t h e esta

bli shme n t a n d a scribe wh o writ e s th e m
, , Th e sh elika .

sigga r i s lik e wi se chi e f o f th e q ua m y

”
o r w o o d c a rri ers -
,

wh o a re a l so e mpl o ye d a s co urt butche rs T h e m it c h énia ”

.
,

o r gro o ms ha v e t h e ,
Io go uhmy ”
o r gra s s cutt e rs under
,
-
,

th e ir o rd e rs Th e a sk o ratch i s th e ma n wh o h o lds the

.

raw b e e f o r bro il e d b o n e s fo r th e gu e st s t o h e lp th e mselves

H e h o ld s th e fo rme r in b o th h an d s an d a ll th a t r e mai ns in ,

hi s gra sp i s h i s p e rqui sit e Th e ca rra a sala fy is the

.
”

kn i fe cl e an e r : h e pre se n ts a kn ife to e a ch pe rs o n t o eat his

-

b ro un do an d th e k n i ve s are r e turn e d t o h i m with a bit

o f me a t s tuck o n th e p o i n t B e sid e s th e s e th e re a re the

.

”
wi sht ashk e ro itc h wh o a re a lo t o f littl e b o y s a b o ut every
,

h o u se O n e Of th e se i s th e makh a dda tabaky o r cu shion

.
,
”

ke e p e r Oth e rs tak e it by turn s t o k e e p o ff t h e fli e s during

.

me a l s o r a t an y time wh e n th e y are tro ubl e s o me a n d they

,
’
are so m e ti me s mad e t o li e by t h e h o ur a cro ss th e ir mas ters

c o uch fo r h im t o l e a n up o n i n st e a d o f a cu s hi o n o r to sit
, , ,

o n th e fl o o r a n d h o ld h i s fe e t .

Th e pay o f th e se rva n t s i s a rran ge d i n v a ri o u s ways ,

a cc o rdi n g t o th e ir situa ti o n an d circu ms ta n c e s A c o mmon .

se rvan t ma n u su a lly re c e iv e s a b o ut t e n pi e ce s o f cl o th and

-

fo ur o r fiv e ma digas o f c o rn a y e ar ; alt o ge th e r e quivalent

-

to ab o ut e ight d o lla rs o r 1 1 1 3 8 4d , Th e c o rn h o wever

. . .
, ,

va rie s in pric e fro m o n e a n d a half t o six ma digas for a

,

d o llar an d th e co tton clo ths at fro m o n e t o thre e fo r the

,
CH A P x x rr
. . MA N N E RS A N D C US TOM S . 223

lik e su m h o we ve r th e man h as a se rvan t b o y—fo r

I f, -

—
.
,

h i h
carryi g s s i e ld &
n c ,
o r i s ma rri e d
. o r h as a mul e o r
,

ho r se o r all o f th e se h is pay an d a ll o wan ce s a re i n cre ase d

, ,

a cc o rdi n gly Sh o uld th e i r mast e r b e a

. sh o u m o r p et t y ,

chi e f h e ge n e ra lly fin d s me an s t o e n rich h is se rvan t s a t th e

,

e xp e n se o f th e p e asan t ry by se n di n g o n e h e re t o c o ll e ct
,

tax e s an o the r the re t o try so me p e tty cau se o the rs as

, ,

b ald e rab b a s o r i n tro duc e rs t o priva t e p e rso n s wh o may

”
, ,

h a v e n e e d o f the m fo r th e ir a ffa irs & c I n such ca se s h e

, .

dim in i sh e s the ir pay an d the y co n trive t o ge t ve ry go o d

,

pi c kin gs in th e way o f pre s e n t s bribe s & c fro m tho se

, , .
,

p e rso n s with who m the y may have t o do .

 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P XXI II . .

C H A PTE R XX III .

P E RS ON A L A P P E A RA N CE , D RE S S , & c.

T 1112 Abyssi n i a n s are of middl e

t ture av e ra gin g I shoulds a ,

thi n k ab o ut 5 fe e t 7 i n che s ra the r mo r e tha n l e s s I have

, .

s e ld o m s e e n n a ti ve s a b o v e 6 fe e t a n d o n ly o n e o r t wo who
,

re a ch e d 6 fe e t 2 i n ch e s I n c o lo ur so me o f the m are
.

p e rfe ctly bl a ck but th e m aj o rity a re br o w n o r a v e ry li ght ,

c o ppe r o r n ut co lo ur Thi s va rie ty o f co mpl e xi o n o b serv

.
,

a b le i n b o th s e xe s i s I sho uld thin k a t tri buta bl e t o the

, , ,

mixture o f ra c e s o f which t h e n ati o n i s c o mp o s e d ‘

Al tho ugh .

i n so me di stricts c e rt a in c o l o ur s appe ar t o pr e d o minate

s lightly o v e r o th e rs ye t I h av e n e ve r se e n a n y di s t rict and
, ,

s e ld o m e v e n a n y family i n which yo u c o uld t ra c e un ifo rmity

,

o f c o l o ur I n fe ature s p e rh a p s yo u might d o s o
. B ut as .

a ma n ma y h a v e a ro u n d h i m a fa mily th e pro duc e o f five or

s ix di f fe re n t wiv e s ; an d a s ma n y o f th e m n a tura lly take

,

a ft e r th e ir re sp e ctiv e mo th e rs o u o f t e n s e e a br o th e r almost
y ,

whit e with a so o t bl a ck si st e r o r v ice ver so a s i n t h e cas e of

-
, ,

o n e o f my s e r va n t s wh o was as bl a ck as a c o a l
, s h o rt and ,

thick se t a n d h a d a si ste r wh o was t a lle r tha n hi m s e lf and

, ,

n e a rly a s fa ir a s a n Egypti a n B o th me n an d w o me n are

.

Th e w o rd B kh ash ( t h e n a t i v e n a m e f o r Ab ys s i n i a n ) m an ua l
”
b e li e v e , a “
m i x t ure i n t h e G i z l a nguage A mix t ure o f va rious
.

u l i t i f b t h t m i m f t h ro v i n ces o f Ti ré
q a e s o c o rn
g o e s y a n a e n s o e o e p g
I t i s suppo se d b y s o me t h a t a gre a t n umb e r o f Jew s fo ll o w e d th e Q ueen
o f Sh e b a , o n h e r re turn fro m h e r vi s i t t o S o lo mo n , a n d t h a t a large

c o l o n y o f fugi t i v e s a l s o t o o k re fuge i n A b yssi n i a a b o ut t h e ti me o f the

d estruc t i o n o f th e t e mple a n d th e c a pti v i ty S ub se q ue n t ly t h e Greeks

.

s e n t m i ss i o n a ri e s , an d t h e y w e re d o ub t l e s s a cc o mpa n i ed b a d v e n turers ;
y
a n d th e P o rt ug u e se se n t a n umb e r o f t ro o s, s o me o f wh o m re mained in
p
t h e co un try fo r ma n y ye a rs .
2 26 LI F E I N AB YS S I N I A . CH A P. XXI I I
.

co tto n s tuff ma d e in th e c o u n try an d are o f t wo so rt s ; one

, ,
”
ca lle d c hlliss th e o ther co umta The fo rm e r rea ches
“ ” “
.
,

h al f way d o wn th e calf o f th e le g th e Ia tte to a b o ut three

i
-
,

or fo ur b v e th e kn ee B o th , if the
a o .

d an dy, are mad e ski n tight

-
.I might m te r
C H AP . XX III . PERS ONAL A PPEARANCE , & c
.

s ubj e ct p a rt s b e in g d o uble d p a rt s si n gl e O n e ye ar it may

, , .

be t h e fa shi o n t o ha ve t h e s e am a t t h e sid e o f th e c alli ss ,

b e l o w t h e k n e e o f ab o ut t wo i n ch e s l o n g o n ly b e fo re
, ,

it bra n ch e s o ff o n th e thigh ; whil e an o th e r ye a r it will

b e l e n gth e n e d t o six o r e ight i n ch e s Th e la st w as t h e
.

me a sure a t which I l e ft it Thi s ho we ve r was co n sid e re d

.
, ,

so ve ry ul tra fashi o n able tha t e xce pt D eja t c h Sheto u

, , ,

myse l f a n d o n e o r two o th e rs fe w d are d t o a tte mpt it

, , It .

wa s I a n d my fri e n d Sh et o u wh o firs t i n tro duc e d t h e h abit

o f a ll o wi n g t h e swo rd t o swi n g p e rp e n dicu la rly fro m t h e
’
sid e ,
i n st e a d o f it s sticki n g o ut h o ri z o n tally like a d o g s ,

ta il a s we ll as o f we a ri n g t h e b e lt o v e r t h e hip s i n st e a d o f ,

ro un d th e wa i st a n d up to th e a rmpit s as it wa s wo rn whe n ,

I firs t a rrive d The se with th e i n crea se d l e n gth o f t ro u se rs

.
, ,

re a chi n g as we wo re th e m t o n e a rly th e a n kl e a n d so tight ,

b e l o w th at it t o o k an h o ur to draw th e m o ve r t h e he e l ga ve ,

fa st l o o k an d we re much p a tr o n i se d by
”
a v e ry ,
Yo u n g
”
Aby ss i n ia th o ugh i n va ri ably d e cri e d by re sp e cta bl e e ld e rly
,

t l m e I h a ve b e fo re me n ti o n e d h o w p o o r Sh et o u go t
g e n e n .

’
turn e d o ut o f h i s fa th e r s t e n t fo r a littl e t o o much o f th i s
e xa gg e ra ti o n i n co stu me .

Th e b e lts va ry in l e n gth fro m 1 5 t o 6 0 ya rd s a n d are ,

a b o ut o n e yard i n width I n quan ti ty o f co tto n th e y a re

.

n e a rly all o f t h e sa me we ight , a s t h e v e ry l o n g o n e s are i n

’
pro p o rti o n fi n e r tha n th e sh o rte r An o rdi n a ry so ldi e r s .

b e lt w ill me a s ur e fr o m 3 0 t o 40 cubit s ( 1 5 t o 2 0 yard s) .

Th e o n e I u su ally wo re was 7 0 cubit s l o n g (3 5 ya rd s) ; whil e

a fe w gr e a t chi e fs — amo n g th e m D ej a t ch We ld a Y e sso us
—
,
’
Oub i s u cl e n wh o like givi n g th e mse lve s th e tro ub l e o f
,

tu rn i n g ro u n d an d ro un d fo r a fe w mi n ut e s e ve ry ti me th e y
u t o n th e ir b e lt s o r t ak e the m o ff h a v e th e m a s l o n g
p ,

as 1 2 0 cubits ( 6 0 ya rd s) Th e b e lt i s wo rn a s a so rt o f
.

de fe n siv e a rmo ur I ha ve h e ard me n a sse rt tha t it wil l

.

Dro t e c t i t s we a re r n o t o n ly fro m a club bl o w o r a swo rd c ut ,

J ut e ve n fro m t h e l an c e o f a n e n e my ; whil e o th e rs wh o ,

i e n y th a t it wo uld re si st a fa ir stro k e o f a l an c e a ppro ve o f ,

t a s a pro te cti o n agai n st bl o ws which may gla n ce o ff th e

th i e l d o r which ha vi n g pi e rc e d th e shi e ld (as th e y o ft e n do
, ,

Q 2
2 28 LIFE IN AB YSSIN IA . C HA P XX . III .

i f fro m care l e ssn e ss o r clumsi n e ss th e l an ce p o in t b e a llo wed

t o fa ll p e r pe n dicula rly o n it) wo uld o the rwis e w o un d, or
p e rh a p s kill i ts o wn e r
, .

”
Th e qua rry i s th e prin cipal articl e o f A byss inian
dre ss : it is o f c o tto n an d ve ry fin e a n d so ft ; t h o s e o f the
,

riche r be i n g fi n e r but pro b a bly n o t so se rvice ab l e a s tho se of

th e p o o re r cl ass It i s ma d e i n th re e pi e ce s ; ea c h p iece is
.

a b o ut thre e fe e t bro a d by fi ft e e n fe e t lo n g N e ar both .

e n d s o f e a ch pi e c e 15 a re d strip e five o r si x i n c h e s broad

, .

To s e w th e thre e pi e c e s t o ge th e r o n e i s fi rs t t a ke n and ,

d o ubl e d ca re fully so tha t t h e re d strip e s o f e a ch e n d come

,

e x a ctly t o ge th e r .A se c o n d pi e c e i s t h e n ta k e n a n d also ,

fo ld e d but i n sid e o ut an d o n e half o f it la id un d e r and

, ,

t h e o th e r ha l f o v e r t h e first pi e c e so th a t t h e fo ur red ,

b o rde rs n o w co me t o ge the r On e e dge o f t his qu adruple

.

cl o th i s th e n se wn fro m t o p t o bo tto m an d t h e las t men ,

-

ti o n e d pi e ce i s turn e d b a ck so tha t th e t w o t o ge th e r form

,

o n e d o ubl e cl o th o f t wo bre a dth s Th e third pi e c e i s now

.

a dd e d i n a si mil a r man n e r an d th e wh o l e fo r ms a
”
, q u arry ,

which l e s t my r e a d e r sh o uld have go t c o n fu se d i n t h e above

,

d e scriptio n i s a whit e d o ubl e cl o th with a re d b o rd e r near

, ,

t h e b o tto m o n ly ; t h e bre a dth o f t h e

”
qua rry i s n in e feet
by se ve n a n d a half l o n g An i n fe rio r qua li t y o f this cloth
.

i s ma d e o f much c o arse r ma te ri al a n d with o ut a stri pe : ,

thi s p a ss e s curre n t in th e mark e t s o f Tigré a n d i s i n fact ,

th e i r mo n e y ; a s salt th e A mh Ara co i n an d e ve n d o llars

, , ,

are h e re c o u n t e d a s a rticl e s o f c o mme rc e Th e l o we r class .

o f se rv a n t s a n d wo rki n g p e o pl e we a r th e se i n fe ri o r cl o ths

stitch e d t o ge th e r o n c o mmo n o cca si o n s a n d p e rh a p s have ,

”
fo r S u n d a y b e st a we ld a Gab e r o r ch e ap q u a rry w ith
a blu e s trip e .B ut a b o ve all i s t h e a so rt of

cl o th ma d e afte r th e fashi o n o f th e first me n ti o n e d o n e but -

o f such fi n e n e ss th a t it re quire s t o b e o f six pi e c e s i nstead

o f t h r e e t o giv e it su ffici en t b o dy an d i s wo rn qu a dru , p le

in st e a d o f d o uble I t s strip e o r bo rde r i s o f re d ye llow

.
, ,

a n d blu e silk n e a tly w o rke d t o ge th e r

, in ste ad o f pla i n red ,

co tto n Such an a rticle o f fi n e ry is o f c o urse wo rn only

.
, ,

by la di e s a n d so me few gre a t me n It might c o st abo ut 3032. ,

2 30 LIFE IN AB YSSINIA . C HA P . XX III .

tuck e d I have se e n a s man y a s fiv e c o upl e p ac k e d up in

.

thi s ma n n e r all huddl e d to g e th e r o n o n e s ki n ; a n d o fte n

, ,

wh e n wi shi n g t o l e a v e a ro o m duri n g th e n ight fro m the ,

he a t o r cl o se n e ss ha v e b e e n un a bl e t o p as s w itho ut waking
,

up so me o f th e sl e e p e rs o n t h e fl o o r so cl o s e ly w e re they ,

p a ck e d — m e n w o m e n a n d childr
, e n , .

I n b a t tl e o r a t o the r ti me s wh e n fre e do m o f a cti on is

,
”
re quir e d t h e cl o th i s la id a sid e an d th e di n o o r le md
, ,
“
,

ma d e o f v e lve t cl o th o r t h e ski n o f so me a n i ma l i s sub

, , ,

s ti tut e d On o rdi n a ry o cc as i o n s th e la tte r ki n d i s c o mmo nly

.

”
wo rn o v e r t h e qua rry whe n o ut o f d o o rs t o p re ve n t its
“
,

b e in g d e ran ge d by th e win d .

I n fiayi n g a n an i ma l if i t s ski n b e i n t e n d e d fo r we aring

, ,

t h e first i n ci si o n i s ma d e d o w n th e sid e l e n gt h w i s e a n d not , ,

a l o n g t h e b e lly Th e n whe n th e skin i s co m pl e te ly tak en

.

of f yo u will h a v e a sm o o th upp e r e dge a b o ve a n d t h e skin ,

o f t h e b e lly a n d all fo ur l e g s o n t h e o th e r s id e I f it be .

a sma ll a n i ma l such a s a n o tt e r lyn x c a l f o r l a mb t h e cu

, t , , , ,

ti n g o ut an d fi n i shi n g mu st b e ra th e r diffe re n t fro m that of

-

t h e l a rge ski n s Th e l o w e r h a l f o f t h e b e lly m u s t b e cut

.

i n t o st rip s o f a b o ut two i n ch e s bro a d an d thre e i n ch e s a part ,

a n d t h e pi e c e s cut o ut fro m b e tw e e n th e m a n d s titch e d to

th e m t o l e n gthe n th e m Thu s yo u will ha v e l e ft a b o dy of

.

ab o ut s i x in ch e s b ro a d a n d e ight strip s h a n gi n g fro m the

,

lo we r e dge a t e qua l di sta n c e s as a so rt o f fri n g e : th e y are ,

t h e l e gs ta il a n d t h e thr e e strip s d e s crib e d as cut o ut fro m

, ,

t h e b e lly I n a l a rge ski n h o w e v e r yo u l e a ve a bro ad

.
, ,

b o dy an d t h e strip s a re l e ft simpl e whil e in a small o ne

, ,

th e y a re o ft e n e dge d with ye ll o w sa tin o r ca lic o a n d the ,

p o i n t s c ut in t o o rn a m e n tal cro s se s o r o th e r d e vice s Of .

th e l a rge r so rt s o f ski n s th e mo st e st e e me d fo r o rdi n ary ,

w e a r i s th a t o f a p e culi a r s o rt o f s h e e p fo u n d i n t h e Galla
c o un tri e s o f Ye jjo n a n d Wa ra H ima n o I t s w o o l i s lo ng .

a n d stra ight I ha v e se e n so m e tha t m e a sur e d a go o d deal

.

a b o v e t w o fe e t A n o rdi n ary ski n will c o s t 1 0 s t o 1 5 51 ;

. .

but i f o f t h e l e n gth o f wo o l I h a ve me n ti o n e d fro m 1 1 to , .

l l ro s
. I f n o t n a tu ra lly so t h e b e st ski n s a re u su a lly dyed
.
,

bl ack th o u gh th e n a tural re d a n d whit e a re a l so wo rn by

,
C H AP . XX III . PERSONAL A PPEARANCE , & ‘
c . 23 !

s o me p e rso n s I have b e e n t o ld th at t h e e xi st e n c e o f th e
.

u n fo rtun ate an imal s o f thi s bre e d like tha t o f man y Euro ,

p e a n an ima l s o f a highe r class in n atura l hi st o ry i s e n tire ly ,

s a crific e d t o th e cultiva ti o n o f th e ir e xt e ri o r The y are sa id .

t o b e fe d o n ly o n me a t a n d milk t o b e k e pt a lwa ys o n ,

c o uch e s a n d t o have th e ir ha ir co mbe d an d tre sse d re gu

,

l arly . P o o r she e p a ft e r such a li fe it can a st o n i sh n o o n e ,

tha t whe n kille d an d d e priv e d o f the ir b e autiful ski n the re

, ,

s h o uld b e fo un d t o re ma i n as I h a v e h e a rd ) a frame wo rk o f
(
b o n e s with o ut an y fl e sh o n th e m .

T h e ski n s o f t h e li o n a n d b l a ck p a n th e r are wo rn by t h e
v e ry gre a t wa rri o rs o n b attl e d ay s re vi e ws o r o th e r p age a n ts
, , .

A h a n d so me o n e o f th e fo rme r ma y fe tc h fro m 6 1 t o t o ] . .

Tho se with a n e arly bl a ck ma n e a re pre fe rre d Th e cafie y

'

.
,

o r v e lv e t ma n tl e a l so a n a rticl e o f
”
,
gra n d e t e n u e i s cut ,

n e a rly a ft e r th e sa me fa shi o n as th e ski n s a n d lik e t h e tw o , ,

l as t me n ti o n e d i t s who l e surfa c e i s o ft e n pro fu se ly o rn a

,

m e n t e d with st ars cro sse s an d o th e r appro pri a t e d e vi c e s i n

, , ,

s ilve r a n d silv e r gilt Te d de ly H a i lo chi e f o f Tsaga ddy h a s

.
, ,

o n e o rn a me n t e d fo r h i m by a Gre e k silv e rsmith a t Ad o u a ,

o n w hich t h e silv e r o f 1 5 0 G e rm a n cro wn s wa s e xp e n d e d .

’
I n pl a ci n g c a lve s ski n s a mo n g th o se o f t h e sma ll e r a n i
ma l s I s h o uld h a v e sa id th a t I i mpli e d th o se ca lv e s tak e n
,

o ut o f c o w s sl a ugh t e re d i n c a l f Th e se fro m th e i r fi n e n e ss
.
, ,

r e se mbli n g ve lve t are much e ste e m e d by da n di e s e sp e cia lly

, ,

i f bl a ck wh e re a s th e ski n o f a ca lf which h a d c o m e i n t o th e
w o rld in t h e re gul a r way wo uld o n ly b e w o rn by a pl o ugh
ma n .

B e sid e s th e I ha v e alre ady me n ti o n e d I might n a me

i
sk n s ,

t h o se o f t h e j a ckal fro m Simye n th e wild c a t a n d t h e n e b ry

, ,

g w o lgw o l ( o r l e o p a rd ca t ) —a n an i ma l r e s e mbli n g a l e o p a rd ,

but sca rc e ly la rge r tha n a c a t So me p e rso n s h a ve h o w.

,

e v e r a pr e judic e a ga i n s t t h e ski n o f t h e re d j ack a l a s it i s

, ,

s upp o sed th a t sh o uld a l a n c e pi e rci n g t h e ski n i n flict a

,

w o u n d o n i t s w e a re r a n d by ill luck a si n gl e ha i r o f th e
,

j a cka l e n t e r t h e wo u n d th e p a ti e n t i s sure t o d ie A ll th e se
,
.

”
d in o e s a re li n e d with re d cl o th o r chi n tz i n which th a t ,

c o l o ur p re d o mi n at e s Th e upp e r e dge i s n e a tly b o u n d with

.
232 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . CH AP . xx m
.

c rl e t mo roc co l e a th e r an in ch wid e al o n g wh i ch a re usually

s a ,

se wn o n e o r t wo go ld an d sil ve r tin se l thre a d s : th e e n d s are

bro ught t o ge the r a n d fas te n e d with a do ubl e ro w o f amulets

in gre e n an d re d l e a the r which wh e n t h e ski n i s worn
, , ,

a pp e a r i n fro n t o f t h e che st o r o n t h e s h o ul d e r Th e skins .

o f th e d o g a n d hy e n a a re n e v e r wo rn an d th o s e o f l e o pards ,

o n ly by t h e Za cc h ari o r fo ll o we rs o f A b o u n a Ab e l (a se t of
,

i mp o sto rs like so me o f th e Asia tic de rwi sh e s) an d b y so me

, ,

so ldi e r s o f t h e Ga ll a a n d Sho a tribe s .

While o n th e subj e ct o f ski n s it may n o t b e un i n te re sting

,

n o r u se l e ss t o sta t e h o w th e y a re dre ss e d o r ta n n e d i f such ,

e xpr e ssi o n b e ju stifi a bl e a s I ha ve fo u n d n o b e tt e r m e an s for

,

pre p a ri n g ski n s n o t i n t e n d e d fo r se tti n g up i n an y c o untry

, ,
.

Th e fre sh fl aye d ski n i s u su a lly stre tch e d i n th e sun t o dry :

thi s i s d o n e by n icki n g small h o l e s ro u n d i t s e dge and ,

d rivi n g lit tl e p o i n t e d p e gs thro ugh the m i n t o t h e gro und .

D ri e d in thi s ma n n e r it o f c o ur se b e co me s h a rd a n d stiff
, ,

but will k e e p i n a dry pla c e fo r a l o n g ti me To s o ften it .

,

a mixture o f cl o tt e d milk an d li n se e d fl o u r i s s pre a d o n it ,

a n d a ll o we d t o so a k i n fo r a n ight It i s th e n ta k e n and .

fo ld e d up fur o utsid e an d trampl e d o n an d w o r ke d by the

, ,

fe e t fo r a c o n sid e rabl e ti me e ve ry mo rn i n g till it b e c o mes as

s o ft as a pi e c e o f ra ft r ch p dipul ti it i “
g A . e e a e a o n s put
aw ay c o v e r e d with fre sh gra ss pre sse d d o wn o n it by h e av
, y
s t o n e s t o pre v e n t i t s dryi n g till th e pro c e ss i s c o m pl e ted
,
.

Wh e n thi s o p e ra ti o n h a s b e e n co n tin ue d s o me d a ys a ccord ,

i n g t o t h e qu a lity o f th e ski n t h e fur i s e a s ily cl e a n ed of

,

wh at e v e r dirt may h a v e a tta ch e d t o it a n d t h e me mb ran e of ,

th e ski n may b e p e e l e d o ff l e a vi n g it i n s id e a s so ft a s cha

,

mo i s l e a th e r a n d quit e whit e
,
I f ski n s thu s pre p a r e d are
.

care fully p a ck e d up with a quan tity o f stro n g n a tive t o bacco ,

o r bl a ck p e pp r o e r
,
— e a —
b e tt r tha n l co l o cyn th th e y will
l ,

b e i n n o d a n ge r fro m i n se ct s Thi s me th o d i s o f co urse

.

o n ly a va il a bl e fo r ski n s pr e p a r e d fla t an d ca n b e o f n o u se ,

fo r stu ffe d sp e ci me n s o f n a tu ra l hi st o ry .

Th e me n se ld o m we ar a n y o rn ame n t s e xce pti n g p e rhaps ,

s o me s tri n gs o f a mul e t s a lt e rn a t e ly silve r a n d re d m o rocco

, ,

o r o f t h e la tt e r ma t e ria l o n ly an d a p lai n s ilv e r h o o p ring or

,
2 34 LIFE IN AB YSSINIA . CH AP . xx m .

mak e t h e r o n ame n s
t which a re t o b e l e ft pl a in s il v e r o f a far
b e tt e r qu ality tha n th o se gilt ; fo r th e pure r th e s ilve r the
mo re go ld it re quire s t o gild it a n d t h e l e s s d ura ble the ,

ildi ng I n th e gildi n g a l so the y ma k e a s ma ll pro fit I

g . .

h ave k n o wn a ma n t o re ce iv e thi rty Ve n e ti an s e q uin s for a

jo b , o n w hic h h e e m pl o y e d o n ly s e v e n an d a h a lf It is .
,

p e rh ap s sca rc e ly fa ir i n me t o te ll tal es o ut o f sc h o o l for

, ,
”

I wa s fo r a c o n sid e ra ble t ime e mplo ye d wi th th e m an d in ,

c o n se qu e n ce a cquire d a k n o wl e dge o f man y o f t h e ir se cret

go i n gs o n B ut in truth th e y are mo re t o b e pi t ie d than
-
.
, ,

bl ame d Th e y are c o n sid e re d al mo s t i n th e l igh t o f slaves

.

he re ; tha t i s the y a re n o t a ll o we d t o l e a v e t h e co untry;

,

a n d th o u gh tr e a t e d with c o n sid e ra bl e kin d n e ss an d even ,

s o me di sti n cti o n th e ir suppli e s are n e ith e r o v er pl e n tifirl nor

,
-

ve ry re gul arly p a id .

So m e o f t h e
”
To re turn t o t h e o rn a me n t s “
b i t o a have .

t h e e dge s furth e r o rn ame n t e d with a n u mbe r o f sma ll bell

pi e c e s o f silve r hu n g by littl e cha i n s as a fri n ge The
,
.

sé i s a so rt o f c o ro n e t o rn ame nted
”
ro ra or,
ki lli t c h a , ,
”
with sta mpe d o r fil ai gr a i n wo rk lik e th e - -
b it o a and , ,

h avi n g a l s o a qu a nt ity o f b e ll s an d ch ain s o f s ilve r h anging

”
o v e r t h e e a rs a n d n e ck o f t h e we a re r Th e h o rn o f victo ry .
,

w hich B ruc e d e scribe s mu s t b e o ut o f d a t e a lt o g e th e r as

, ,

I ha v e n e v e r s e e n it ; a n d tho u gh I hav e ta k e n pa rt icular

p a i n s t o i n quire have n e v e r fo u n d a n y o n e w h o k n e w any
,

thi n g o f it Th e tc h o uffa o r di sc o f silv e r a s Bruce

.
“
, ,

c a ll s it i s still u se d but i s n o t co n sid e re d fashi o n a bl e being

, , ,

c o n fi n e d a l mo s t e n ti re ly t o t h e A gami a n d so m e o ther
n e ighb o uri n g trib e s Thi s o rn a me n t wo rn o n t h e right
.
,

a rm a b o v e t h e e lb o w i s i n t h e fo rm o f a quo it but very , ,

l arge a n d it may we ll b e i magi n e d h o w awk w a rd such an

a pp e n d a ge mu st b e t o t h e w e a re r a n d h o w d a n ge ro u s to ,

h i m i f by ill luck h e sh o uld ch an c e t o fa ll e ith e r when

, ,

wa lki n g o r ridi n g Th e sé ro ra
. may re quire thirty d o llars ;
th e t c h o uffa fro m thirty t o fo rty ; th e bit o a fro m fifteen
t o tw e n ty fiv e -
.

Th e s wo rd sp e a r a n d shi e ld are e sse n ti a lly t h e we apo ns

, ,

o f th e A by s si n i a n s fire a rms b e i n g o n ly o f c o mp a ratively

,
Ca m x x ru . PERSONAL A PPEA RA N CE , ar e . 235

re c e n t in tro ducti o n an d n o t ge n e rally used Th e shi e lds

,
.

a re ro un d an d
,
n ea rly a y a rd i n d ia m e t e r : the y a r e v e ry
’
hi d d f h f rm m t l u
'

o f b u fla l o s e a n o t e ,
o o s ca c

Sh ie ld w i t h Lio n
‘
s Mane an d Tall , an d Swo rd men te d wi th
orn a Si l ver Pla te s
.

la t e d to th ro w o ff a lan c e po in t na me ly , fa ll in g b ack
grad ua lly fro m t he b o ss o r ce n tre (wh ich pro trud e s) to th e
e d ge s At the cen tr e , in t h e i nsid e, i s fixe d a so lid l e a th e r
.

ha l , b y whi ch the shi el d i s h e ld m th e h a n d wh en fightin g

nd e whic h th e arm is pa sse d to th e e lbo w fo r co n
.

e m i m c e o f carryin g o n a j o urne y Th e e d ge 18 pe rfo ra t e d

.
23 6 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . Gn u . xx m .

with a nu mb e r
ho les thro ugh which lea t h e r l oo ps are
of ,

p as se d an d by th e se it is slun g up in th e h o use s The face

, .

o f t h e s hi e ld i s o fte n o rn a me n te d in va ri o us wa ys ac co rding
, ,

t o t h e we a lth o r fan cy o f t h e o wn e r So me h a v e simply .

’
a n a rr o w s trip o f li o n s ski n o n e a ch s id e o f t h e b o ss bu t ,

cro ssi n g e ach o th e r a b o ve an d b e lo w i t th e lo w e r e n d s being ,

a ll o we d t o han g a t so me length ; o th e rs h a v e a la r e broad

g
s tri p o f t h e man e d o wn th e cent re o f th e s hi e l d a n d hangi ng ,

se v e ra l i n ch e s b e l o w it Th is i s o f c o urse usua lly made of

.

t wo o r thre e pi ece s st i tch e d to ge th e r as i t w o ul d b e difficult ,

t o ge t a s in gl e pi e c e o f suffici e n t l e ngth an d b e a ut y o f fur .

’
Othe rs t o thi s add a l io n s paw o r tail fast e n e d o n t he left ,

sid e o f th e man e an d o f t en h igh ly a d o rn e d wi th s ilv er The

, .

b e aut ful l o n g bla ck an d whi t e fur o f a so rt o f mo n k e y called ,

ré
”
o za o cc a si o n a lly h uppli e s t h e plac e o f t h a t o f the
g ,

n o bl e r ye t s ca rc e ly so b e aut iful an ima l A sh i e ld almost .

,

co mpl e t e ly co ve red wi th p lat e s an d bo sses o f silv e r is usually ,

t h e mark o f t h e chi ef o f so me di s tri c t Th o se si milarly .

pla te d in bra ss we re likewis e fo rme rly use d o n ly by chiefs,

tho ugh n o w th e y are carrie d by eve ry so ldi e r wh o can
’
a ffo rd t o buy th e m Th e p late d shi e ld i s ca ll e d
. t e b b ora .

Tho se in bra ss are n o t much a ppro ve d o f as t h e y u sually ,

co ve r a b a d ski n : fo r a man p o sse sse d o f a go o d hand

so me shi e ld wo uld n e ve r thi n k o f hidin g i ts in trinsic
b e auti e s with th e base r me ta l .

I n fo rme r ti me s a b e auti ful cro o ke d kn i fe wa s u sed in

Tigré th e sh e ath an d ha n dl e o f which w e re pro fusely
,

e n rich e d with silv e r a n d gilt The se h o w e v e r a re n ever

.
, ,

wo rn n o w I have se e n two o r t h re e in th e p o ss e ssion of

.

rich m e n a n d chi e fs t o wh o m th e y h a v e d e s c e n d ed from

,

the ir an c e sto rs ; but th e l o n g sh o te l in Tigre an d the ,

Euro p e a n shap e d swo rd a mo n g th e Amh hra a n d mo st of

-

t h e so ldi e rs h a v e e n tire ly sup e rse d e d th e m

,
.

Th e sh o t e l i s an awkwa rd l o o ki n g we a p o n -
Some . ,

if stra ight wo uld b e n e arly fo ur fe e t lo n g : th e y a re two

,
’
e dge d an d curv e d t o a se micircl e
,
like a re a p e r s sickle
,
.

Th e y a re p rin cip ally u se d to strik e th e po in t do wn wards

o v e r th e gua rd o f an a dv e rsa ry a n d fo r thi s t h e l o n g curved
,
 23 8 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P xxru . .

not fai l di n g o n e o f the se highly o rn am e n ta l but very

se n

u se l e ss p o in ts in to h i s o wn wri st A han d so m e h i lt such as .

,

we h a ve d e scri b e d witho ut th e timb o ra m igh t c o st about

,
”
,

t e n d o ll a rs o r an d fr o m tha t d o wn t o as
, Th e coating .

o f so me h o rn s i n st e a d o f b e i n g white rs o cca s i o n a lly fou

, nd ,

t o b e o f a bright bl o o d re d o fte n ma rk e d i n s trip e s

-
, This .
,
’
t he y say i s o cca s i o n e d by th e an i mal s h a v i n g rec e ived
,

a bl o w th e re H o we ve r it b e such h o rn s are i n A byssinia

.
,

c o n sid e re d valu e l e ss w hil e a Turk wo uld give a n p i

r c for
, y e

th e m .

Th e swo rd i s n e arly a l ways buckl e d o n t o t h e right side

a cc o rdi n g t o Euro pe a n n o ti o n s th e wro n g o n e m
( ) s o e few , ,

gun n e rs o n ly we ari n g it o n th e l e ft Th e re aso n o f this is .

,

tha t i n b a ttl e wh e n a man h as thro wn o r o th e rwi s e lo st his

, ,

l an ce h e wo uld b e o blige d t o u n co ve r him se lf c o n siderably

,

i n d rawin g h i s swo rd fro m a cro ss h i s b o dy ; w h e reas by ,

bucklin g it o n th e right sid e h e ca n ava i l hi m se lf o f it with ,

o ut di sturbi n g t h e p o siti o n o f hi s shi e ld A n o th e r re aso n is .

,

tha t wh e n trave lli n g th e le ft arm must fro m t h e we ight of

, , ,

t h e shi e ld k e e p swin gi n g t o an d fro an d wo uld thu s b e liable

, ,

t o me e t th e sh a rp p o i n t s o f th e swo rd h i lt -
.

Th e sp e a rs u se d by mo st o f th e trib e s in h a biti n g Eastern

A frica a re o f ro ugh c o n structi o n : th o se o f t h e A by s sin ians ,

h o we v e r are fo r t h e mo st p a rt ve ry n e a tly ma d e a n d often

, , , ,

e v e n tas t e fully o rn a me n t e d The ir u su a l l e n gt h i s 6 feet

.

6 i n ch e s in cludi n g th e sta ff ; o f thi s p e rh a p s 2 fe e t a re head

, , ,

an d 6 i n ch e s butt The y use ho we ve r light e r o n e s princi

.
, , , ,

p a lly fo r th ro wi n g ; a n d n o w an d the n o n e me e t s with spear

h e a d s much l o n ge r in pro p o rti o n th an th o se I h a ve d e scri bed .

I h a d o n e o f which th e he a d an d sta ff we re e qu a l Most

—
, .

go o d sp e ars a re fo ur co rn e re d e ith e r di amo n d s ha p e d (that -

is,
bro ad e r th an th e y a re d e e p ) or p e rfe ctly s qu a re : the
la tte r are ho we v e r n o t so c o mmo n a s th e fo rme r In
, , .

e ith e r c ase th e y h av e t h e sid e s gro o ve d fr o m t h e n e ck to

withi n a fe w i n ch e s o f t h e p o i n t ; p a rtly fo r light n e ss and ,

p a rtly fo r o rn a me n t The re i s a n o ld fa shi o n e d ki n d o f spear

.
-

—
,

c all e d h e ll as little u se d n o w a day s e xce pt i n so m e o fthe - -

fro n ti e r dist rict s : it i s t wo to thre e in ch e s bro a d a n d p e rfectly ,

C um x x ru . PERSONAL A PPEARANCE ,
6 °
C.

fla t , with t h e dge s sharp e n e d lik e a swo rd Th e fo rme r kin d

e
’
.

i s c all e d cutchi n ( thi n ) a n d se ld o m e xce e d s a n i n ch in

,

bre adth An o the r so rt I hav e go o d re aso n to re me mb e r

.
,

t h o ugh it i s s e ld o m u se d o r ma d e in A byssi n ia th e fe w th a t ,

I h a v e se e n b e i n g I b e li e v e t a k e n fro m th e fro n ti e r tribe s

, , .

O n c e i n a me l ee I fe lt a scra tc h o n my l e ft sid e a prick

, , ,

n e a r my l e ft e lb o w a n d a tug a t my cl o t h fro m b e hin d

, .

Turn i n g ro u n d I fo un d tha t I h a d draggli n g afte r me a v e ry

r o ughly ma d e lan ce th e h e a d o f which ba rbe d o n e a ch sid e
-
, ,

like a saw h ad fas t h o ld o f my garme n t an d co uld n o t b e

, ,

e xtrica te d e xce pt by p ushi n g it thro ugh sh a ft a n d a ll I k e pt .

i t as a tro phy an d n o t l o n g a fte r h a d d o ubl e re a so n t o

,

re j o ic e that i t h a d n o t struck me a n i n ch o r two mo re t o th e

right A n u n h a ppy j a cka l c o mi n g o n e n ight t o pick up wa i fs
.

a n d s tra ys i n o ur b ivuo a c I thre w it a t h i m fro m whe re

, ,

I lay with n o n o ti o n o f hitti n g h i m H e h o wle d an d mad e

,
.

03 ,
draggi n g it with h i m N e xt mo rn i n g I fo u . n d h im d e a d

a n d a l mo st di se mb o we lle d .

M an y o f th e A byssi n ian s are to l e rably e xp e rt in t h e use

o f th e light e r so rt o f l an c e o r j a v e li n striki n g a ma rk fro m
, ,

t hirty t o fi fty ya rd s di s ta n t with much pre ci si o n Th e l a t e .

N e brid W e ld a Se l assy a n d Li c ko mme n quo s D e sta we re sa id

t o b e a bl e t o thro w a l an c e o ve r th e gre a t tre e a n d c o lu mn
a t Axum So me o f th e s o ldi e rs e sp e ci a lly h o rse me n ca rry
.
, ,

t wo spe a rs wh e n i n acti o n ; o n e o f which th e y thro w fro m

a d i st an c e a n d r e t a in
,
t h e o th e r in t he ha n d fo r cl o se
e n c o un ter Th e A byssi n i an s thro w th e l an c e with th e ha n d
.

ra i s e d as high a s t h e sh o uld e r ; whil e th e Turk s se ld o m

ra i se th e h a n d ab o v e th e e lb o w wh e n c a sti n g th e j e rrid ”
.

I n usin g t h e h e avi e r sp e a r it i s o ft e n a ll o we d t o slid e thro ugh

,

t h e han d a s far as t h e butt th o ugh n e v e r t o l e a ve t h e ha n d

,

a l to ge th er A go o d bl o w fro m a l an c e will as I b e fo re sa id
.
, ,

so me time s pi e rce th e t o ugh e s t shi e ld a n d kill o r wo u n d th e ,

o wn e r if t h e shi e ld b e h e ld s qu a re t o re c e iv e t h e p o i n t
,

th e re fo re a n e xp e ri e n ce d so ldi e r skilful i n th e use o f h i s ,

arms will a l way s e n d e av o ur t o re c e iv e it as o bliqu e ly a s

,

p o ss ible a n d i f h e c an will a vo id th e p o i n t a lto ge th e r

, , , ,

allo wi ng it t o c o me ve ry n e a r w i t h o ut a ctu a l c o n ta ct a n d , ,
240 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P XX . III .

th e n thro wi ng it o ff by a quick mo ve me n t o f h is shi eld ,

’
strikin g th e lan ce s side in ste ad o f i ts p o in t .

It will e as ily b e un d e rs too d t hat e ve n at a m er H and ler ,

a Euro pe an wh o kn o ws an yth i n g o f th e use o f a swo rd can ,

with o ut di fficulty ma ste r th e b e st Abyssi n ian n o tw ith s tanding

, ,

h i s large shi e ld A slight fe in t will o pe n h i s gua rd an d then

.
.
,

o u h a ve h i m a t y o ur me rcy ; fo r a shi e l d is o f c o n s i de rable

y
we ight an d c o n se qu e n tly n o t so manage a bl e a s a sword
, .

Th e b e st way as I h ave al wa ys fo un d is t o ma k e a fe in t at
, ,

h i s he ad which o f c o urse h e will guard with hi s h uge shi eld

, ,

th e re by blin dfo ldi n g h is o wn e ye s wh ile yo u h a ve perfect ,

le i sure t o a mp uta te o n e o r b o th o f h is n ak e d l e gs a cco rding ,

t o t h e stre n gth an d d e xte rity wi th wh ich y o ur b lo w shall he

d e live re d B ut i f (fo r th e re is n o rul e with o ut a n e xce ption)
.

h e sho uld b e t o o quick o r yo u too clumsy t o s ucc e e d the

,

first ti me i n this man oeuvre re pe at th e fe in t b ut i nstead of

, ,

ai mi n g a se co n d ti me a t hi s le gs ( fo r whi c h h e wi ll b e pre

p are d) le t ydur fe in t b e o n ly p art o f a d o ub le cut at his

,

h e a d th e se co n d p a rt o f which shall d e sce n d w ith as much

, ,

fo rc e a s yo u can b e sto w o n h i s p e ricran iu m a t th e very

, ,

mo me n t wh e n h e an ticip ati n g a bl o w o n hi s l egs sh a ll have

, ,

l o we re d h is shi e ld t o pro t e ct the m .

I have said n o thin g a b o ut th e way in w hich t h e Abys :

’
sin ia n s bl o ws are t o b e ward e d o r a vo id e d fo r I take it
fo r gran te d tha t a n y o n e wo uld kn o w h o w t o m a n a ge that
with o ut my t e lli n g h i m Su ffice it to sa y it i s n o t d ifli cult
—
.
,

I h ave h ad m a n y ri dly b ut ith e n a tive s a Turkish

a f e n o w t h
pip e stick b e in g my we a p o n agai n st a l o n g bambo o and
-
,

shi e ld a n d I h a v e a l wa ys c o me o ff vict o ri o u s n e v e r finding ,

a man wh o c o uld i n an y wa y t o uch me T he y ha v e more

.

than o n c e chall e n ge d me t o ha ve a l an ce th ro wn a t me from

a di st a n c e Thi s o f c o urse wa s ea sie r t o e va d e than the
.
, ,

o th e r but n o t b e i n g un d e rst o o d by the m th e y c o n sidered

, ,

me a so rt o f A d mira bl e C richto n i n swo rd sman shi p A .

swo rd i n th e h an d o f an A byssi n i an i s a l mo st useless

b e ca u se h e h o ld s h is shi e ld b e fo re h im with h is le ft hand .

a n d d a re s n o t t o a dva n c e h is right sh o uld e r l e st h e shou ld ,

u n c o ve r his b o dy .
242 LIFE IN ’
A B I S SIN I A . C H AR XXI I L

fro m be in g marrie d or o therwise are ,

as such . Th e dress o f th e fo rme r i s in de e d ra th e r

t ho ugh far more pi c tur esque t ha n tha t o f t he

An Ab yssi n i an ad
L y o f l ’
uh io u.

'
in p art o f t h e c o u n try (a bo ut Shi re) the
we ar a pi e ce o f c o tto n s tu ff wra ppe d ro un d t h e waist and
hangi n g d o wn almo st to th e kn e e an d ano t h e r (at tire
,

en d o f th e fo rme r if it b e l o ng e n o ugh) th rown o ver ne w

sh o uld e r so as t o l e a v e t he right arm n d b re a

,
a st
C HA P . XX III . PERSONAL A PPEARANCE , da m 2 43

cow ri e s i s ,
o f en
ub stitut e d fo r thi s l atte r An o rdi n ary
t s .

w o man we a rs a l a rge l o o se shirt d o wn t o t h e fe e t with ,

s l e e v e s ma d e tight t o wa rd s t h e wri st Thi s with a qu arry .

s i mil a r t o th o se o f th e me n but wo rn ra th e r di ffe r e n tly a n d

, ,

a p a ra so l whe n o ut o f d o o rs i s a c o mpl e t e suit A fin e la dy

, .
,

h o we ve r h as a spl e n did me rge ff qu a rry a s b e fo re d e

,
”
,

s crib e d an d h e r shirt i s ma d e pro ba bly o f c alic o fro m Man

,

che s te r in ste a d o f th e c o u n try fa bric an d richly e mb ro id e re d

, ,
-

i n silk o f dive rs c o l o urs a n d va ri o u s p a tte rn s ro u n d t h e n e ck ,

d o wn th e fro n t an d o n th e cu ffs Sh e will a lso o f co urse

, .
, ,

o w n a mul e ; an d th e n may ch o o se t o we a r (al a s tha t it ,

s h o uld b e so e v e n i n A byssi n i a th e i n e xpre s s ibl e s Th e se are .

m a d e o f cali c o an d ra the r l o o se but ge tti n g gra du ally tighte r

, ,

a t t h e an kl e wh e re th e y a re e mbro id e re d lik e th e sh irt

, .

Th e fa ir se x all o v e r th e wo rld a re fo n d o f o m a me n t s I n .

A byss in ia th e y we a r a pro fu si o n o f silv e r i n th e sh ap e o f ,

cha in s brac e le t s & c o r t o b e mo re e xplicit a we ll d re sse d

, ,
.
, ,
-

la dy wi ll h an g thre e o r fo ur se ts o f a mul e t s ab o ut h e r n e ck ,

as w e ll as h e r blu e c o rd a n d a l a rge fla t sil v e r ca se (purp o rt

,

in g to co n ta in a tali sman but mo re o ft e n s o me sc e n t e d ,

c o t to n ) o rn ame n te d with a lo t o f littl e b e ll s ha n gi n g to th e

b o tto m e dge o f it a n d th e w h o l e su sp e n d e d by fo ur ch ai n s
,

o f t h e sa me m e ta l Thre e p a ir o f ma ssi ve silv e r a n d gilt

.

bra ce l e ts are o n h e r wrists an d a si mila r n u mb e r o f b an gl e s

,
“

o n h e r a n kl e s whil e o ve r h e r i n st e p s a n d t o h e r h e e l s a re a
u a n tity o f littl e silv e r o rn ame n t s stru n g lik e b e a d s o n a silk
q ,

c o rd H e r fin ge rs (e v e n t h e upp e r j o in ts) a re c o v e re d w ith

.

pl a i n ri n gs o fte n alt e rn a te ly o f sil v e r a n d silve r gilt a n d a

,
-

s ilv e r h a ir pi n so me thi n g si mil a r t o th o s e n o w w o r n by E n g

-
,

li s h l a di e s co mpl e t e s h e r d e co ra ti o n Wo me n o f th e p o o re r
,
.

clas s a n d ladi e s o n o rdin a ry o cca si o n s w e a r i vo ry o r wo o d e n

, ,

pi n s n e a tly ca rv e d in va ri o u s p a tte rn s a n d sta in e d re d with ,

h e n n a le av e s Th e A byssi n i an la di e s li ke th o se o f m o st
-
.
,

Eas t e rn n a ti o n s st ai n th e ir h an d s a n d fe e t with h e n n a a n d
, ,

d a rk e n the ir e ye lid s with a n ti mo n y .

I n ge n e ra l n e ith e r se x w e a rs a n y c o v e ri n g o n t h e h e a d
, ,

pre fe rri n g t o tre ss an d butt e r tha t w ith which n a ture h a s

pro vid e d th e m Th e ha ir o f t h e Aby ssi n i an s i s a d mira bly
.

R 2
246 LIFE I I V A B VS S IN I A . Cm stx ur

t ho u gh , as this mo d e o f ado rni ng th e pe rso n is no t co mmon

e x c e pt in g amo n g th e in ha b itan ts o f th e ca pit al an d pe rso ns

wh o ha ve pa sse d so me time th ere I sh o uld ju d ge i t to b e a

,
.

fashio n impo rte d fro m th e Amhhra The me n se l do m ta ttoo

.

mo re than o n e o na men t o n
r th e uppe r pa rt o f th e arm , near

th e h o uld er
s , whil e th e wo me n co ve r n a rly t h e w h o le of

fully a rran ge d . The y mark th e n e ck sho ulde rs b re a s ts, and

, ,

arms, do wn to th e finge rs, whi ch are M M with l in es to

C HA P . XX III . PERSONAL A PPEARANCE , dy e . 2 47

i m ita t e rin gs n e a rly t o th e n a il s Th e fe e t a n kl e s an d

, .
, ,

c a lv e s o f t h e l e gs are similarly a d o rn e d an d e ve n th e gu ms
, ,

a re by so me prick e d e n tire ly blu e whil e o th e rs h a v e th e m ,

s trip e d a lte rn a t e ly blu e an d t h e n a tura l pi n k To s e e so me .

o f th e ir d e sign s o n e wo uld giv e th e m cre dit fo r so me skill i n

,

t h e h an dli ng o f th e ir p e n cil ; but i n fa ct th e ir sy st e m o f , ,

dra wi n g th e p a tte rn i s pure ly me chan ica l I h a d o n e a rm .

:

a d o rn e d ; a ra th e r bli n d o l d w o ma n wa s t h e a rti st ; h e r i m

l m t c o n s i s te d o f a littl e po t o f so me so rt o f bl a cki n g
p e e n s ,

m a d e sh e t o ld me o f cha rre d h e rb s ; a l a rge h o me ma d e

, ,
-

iro n pin a bo ut o n e fo urth o f an i n ch a t th e e n d o f which was

-
,
-

gr o u n d fin e ; a bit o r two o f h o ll o w ca n e a n d a pie ce o f ,

s traw : th e t wo l a s t n a me d it e ms we re h e r sub stitut e s fo r

-

p e n cil s H e r circl e s we re ma de by dippin g t h e e n d o f a

.

pi e ce o f can e o f th e re quire d siz e i n to th e bla cki n g a n d ,

ma ki n g i t s i mpre ssi o n o n th e ski n ; while an e n d o f th e stra w ,

b e n t to t h e pro pe r l e n gth a n d lik e wi se bl a ck e n e d ma rk e d , ,

a ll t h e l in e s s qu a r e s
, dia mo n d s & c which we re t o b e o f
, , .
,

e qu a l l e n gth H e r d e sign b e i n g thus c o mpl e te d sh e w o rke d

.
,

a w a y o n i t with h e r pin which sh e dug i n as fa r a s th e thi n ,

p a rt wo uld e n te r ke e pin g th e supp ly o f bl a ckin g su ffici e n t

, ,

a n d go in g o v e r th e sa me gr o u n d r e p e a te dly t o e n sure re gu

la ri ty a n d un ity in t h e li n e s With so me p e r so n s t h e first .

,

e ffe ct o f t h i s t a tto o i n g i s t o pr o duc e a co ns id e ra bl e a mo u n t

o f fe v e r fro m t h e irrita tio n c a u se d by t h e pu n ctur e s ; e spe

,

c i al ly so with th e la di e s fro m t h e e xt e n t o f surfa c e thu s re n

,

d e re d so re To a lla y thi s irrit a ti o n th e y a re ge n e ra lly o blige d

.

t o r e ma i n fo r a fe w d a ys in a ca se o f v e ge ta bl e ma tt e r w hich i s ,

pla s te re d all o ve r th e m in th e fo rm o f a so rt o f gre e n p o ultic e .

A s ca b fo rms o v e r th e ta tt o o i n g w hich sh o uld n o t b e picke d ,

o ff but a ll o we d t o fa ll o f
,
f o f it se lf Wh e n thi s d is a pp e a rs t h e .
,

o p e ra ti o n i s co mple te an d t h e ma rk s a re i n d e libl e ; n a
, y ,

m o r e t h e A byss i n i an s d e cla re th a t th e y may b e tra ce d o n t h e

,
’
p e rso n s bo n e s e ve n a fte r d e a th h a s ba re d th e m o f the ir
fle s hy c o ve ri n g .

Th e e xtre miti e s are t h e mo st n e gl e ct e d p a rt s o f a n A b yss i

n i a n : h i s fe e t lik e h is h e a d a re s e ld o m c o v e re d G re a t
, ,
.

lad i e s an d so me o n e o r two e ld e rly chi e fs we a r a scrt o f

, ,
248 LIFE IN A B YSSINI A . Cl u e . XXI II
.

d um y slme mad e o f re d o r b lae k i th t h e t o e s m y

muc h mme d b ach like so me o f the l ndia n s
’
The sho es ef
.

the wo men are o cc asi o nally o m a me n te d wit h si l ve r F er rite.

r es t, a few me rchan ts of Ad o ua , prin ci pally Muss ul me n, h ave

lea m t the use o f sanda ls m
fio m ei r i n t erco use w ith the people
o f t he co as t ; b ut m
e se are wo m o n ly m
th e to wmb e i ng m
s id e re d as h ighly tro ub l e s ome fo r m
e rc ad
-
.

Whi le on I may as we li adwefi tfi

th e mul es ho rses M os t men
an d . at

thi n g like gen ti lity are po ssesse d o f one o r ot h e r, e o

oron f
ea ch o f th ese an i ma ls The ho rse rs
.

but led be fore h is mas te r lik e th e

,

kn ight whi l e th e o wn e r fo ll o w s on
,

price o f a mul e so me ti me s
Oubi ha d on e tha t co st 1 2 0 d o llars ,
2 50 LIFE IN AB YSSINIA . C R A P xx ru
. .

i
n o se w h e n th e i ma l i s ambli n g R ich pe r s o n s ha ve the
an .

sh a bra cqu e e mbro id e re d in a s o rt o f mo sa ic o f di ffe rent

co lo ure d le athe rs i n gro te sque pa tte rn s o f li o n s m e n &c

, , , .

”
me rge fl c o ra t ch a Th e pla te s o f the
'

Thi s is ca lle d .

”
so ullissy ,
w hich i s w o rn with thi s fan cy sa ddl e a re also
,

much smalle r a n d mo re n u me ro u s than tho se o f a n o rdi nary

’
o ne . So me p e rso n s gre a t d a n di e s ha v e th e ir h o r se s fur
, ,

n i ture mo u n t e d in silv e r i n ste a d o f bra ss a n d t h e E mpre ss

Me n n in h a s a mule s
’
so ull i ssy mad e o f th a t me tal
N e ith e r ho r se s n o r mul e s a re sh o d alth o ugh th e c o u n try is in
,

mo st pl ac es v ery ro ugh and sto ny .

C H AP . x x rv . BIR TH S AND MARRIA GES . 25 1

C H A PTE R XXI V.

B I R TH S A N D MA R RI A GE S .

I N the rli e r chapte rs I ha ve n o t o n ly d e scrib e d a h o use

ea ,

but fur n i she d it pre p a re d fo o d a n d pla ce d e a ch se rvan t a t

, ,

h i s p a rtic ul a r a v o ca ti o n Still th e m a st e r i s wa n tin g an d

.

n o d o ubt a ll will a ll o w h i m t o b e a ra th e r e sse n ti a l p a rt o f

t h e e st a bli s hme n t I n o rd e r th a t my r e a d e r s ma y fe e l
.

su ffici e n t i n t e r e s t i n h im I will i n tro duc e th e m a t h i s b irth

,
.

F irs t th e n w e will pa y a vi sit t o hi s r e sp e cta bl e mo th e r

, ,

wh o m w e will i magin e t o h a v e a lre a dy i n vit e d h e r n e ighb o urs

a n d fri e n d s t o assi s t h e r A ll wh o a re a t lib e rty a n d suffi
.

ci e n t ly go o d n a tur e d c o me a t h e r biddi n g a n d wa tch with

-
,

h e r d ay a n d n ight till th e critic a l mo m e n t a rriv e s We will .

supp o se o urs e lve s a t t h e d o o r a t thi s ti m e Th e l a di e s o f .

o ur p a rty may wa lk i n but th e g e n tl e me n mu s t re ma i n o ut

,

sid e ,
an d b e sa ti sfi e d with wh a t th e y c an h e r e a ft e r gl e a n

fro m t h e wo me n a s t o th e e v e n t s which may ha v e ta k e n

,

pl a c e i n t h e a p a rtme n t A n d thi s n o t o n ly fo r o bvi o us

.

re as o n s but b e cau s e th e ro o m an d e ve rythi n g i n it i s co n

, , ,

si d e re d so utt e rly u n cl e a n till pro p e rly p urifi e d t h a t a man ,

wh o s ho uld en te r wo uld b e re fu se d ad mitta n c e t o t h e church

fo r fo rty da ys .

A s so o n a s th e child i s b o rn it i s wash e d i n c o ld wa t e r a n d
p e rfu me d a n d a wo man th e n mo uld s it s h e a d an d diffe re n t
,

fe a tur e s by pre ssi n g th e m with h e r fi n ge rs i n o rd e r t o ma k e

, ,

t h e m ha n d so me whil e a ma n p o k e s a l an c e i n t o h i s m o uth
, ,

i f a b o y t o ma ke h i m co urage o u s
,
H e d o e s thi s thro ugh
.

t h e wi n d o w mo st ca re fully a v o idi n g e n t e ri n g t h e ch a mb e r
, .

A t t h e sa me ti me a littl e b o y c ut s t h e thro a t o f a fo wl b e fo re
th e n e w b o rn b ab e an d th e w o me n fill t h e ai r with cri e s o f
-
,
25 : L IF E IN AB YSSIN IA . C HA P . XX V I .

e x u t a ti o n
l i g th e ir cry t we lve tim e s i f t h e in fan t be
re pe a t n

a ma le a n d three t i me s if a fe ma l e
. The y t h e n a ll rush out .

i n t o t h e co urt sin gin g an d d a n cin g like so m a n y b a cchanal s

.

an d wo e b e t id e t h e ma n wh o i s un lucky e n o ug h t o b e cau ht
g
b y t h e m fo r the y surro un d him an d by th e ir y e llin g si nging , , ,

dan ci n g a n d sc re a mi n g lit e ra lly stupi fy h im ; n o r d o they

. ,

le t h im go t ill h e h as pro mi se d th e m a ra n so m e ith e r o f beer ,

o r mo n e y o r so me o th e r kin d o f pre se n t
. I r e m e m b e r once .
,

a t t h e h o use o f a fri e n d a t Ad o ua I was a w a k e n e d earl

y ,

i n t h e mo rn i n g l o n g b e fo re sun ri se by t h e
, Z uga ri t from ,

t h e wo me n which proc lai me d th e birth o f a fe ma l e child I

. .

was co n gra tula ti n g th e fa th e r but h e cut m e s h o rt te lling

, ,

me tha t t h e be s t thin g we co uld d o was t o b e t a k e o urselves

t o t h e h o use to p in o rd e r t o k e e p o ut o f t h e wa y o f the
,

wo me n wh o wo uld n o d o ubt imme dia t e ly tur n o ut in pursuit

,

o f us . We did so fo llo we d by all th e me n s e rvan ts ; but

,

sca rce ly h a l f o f us h a d time t o e sca p e b e fo r e th e wo men

rushe d o ut an d succe e de d in ca pturin g a fe w o f t h e men ,

ea c h o f wh o m ga ve s o me t h in g t o b e l e t o ff a n d th e n mo unted

t o j o i n us a s sp ec ta t o rs o f t h e ca pture o f vi s ito rs o r o thers

wh o might a rrive t o c o n gra tula t e t h e fa th e r .

Three d ays afte r t h e birth th e y go thro ugh a similar

’
c e re mo n y o n th e o cca sio n o f ca rryi n g th e mo th e r s clo thes
t o a bro o k t o b e was h e d a n d e v e ry m al e fri e n d c a pture d on

t h e r o a d is tre a t e d as we ha v e ju st d e sc rib e d O n th e same .

da y th e re is a l so a me rryma ki n g in t h e ho u s e T h e wo men .

’
a ll e a t p o rridge which h as b e e n t h e mo th e r s fo o d sin ce her
,

co n fi n e me n t an d th e fl o ur o f which sh e pre p a r e d with her

,

o wn h an d s b e fo re tha t e ve n t t o o k pla c e T h e child is .

u su ally n urs e d by a n e ighbo ur till th e mo the r ca n take it

h e rse lf ; an d b utt e r a n d so me ti me s e ve n h o n e y an d milk.
,

a re cra mm e d i n to i ts mo uth Aft e r e ight d a y s th e child is

.

circu mci se d b e it ma l e o r fe ma l e an d o n t h e t e n th day ifit

, , ,

b e a b o y o r o n th e twe n ti e th da y i f a girl t h e p ri e sts come

with a ll t h e p o mp an d c e re m o n y o f t h e C hurch —cro sses ih
, , ,

c e n se & c an d purify th e h o u se spri n kli n g it with holy

, .
, ,
’
wa t e r . O n th e d ay o f th e child s birth t h e pri e s t makes his
calcul ati o n as t o whe n it i s t o b e ba ptize d i n fo rming the ,
254 L IFE IN A B YS S I N I A . C H A P XX V. I .

s o n s, an d so me ti me s e ven th e daughte rs o f gre at me n and ,

pri e sts a re taught t o re a d a littl e an d t o re pea t b y h eart a ,

fe w ch apte rs o f th e P sa l ms o r o the r p o rti o n s o f t h e S criptures ;

but a s the se a re mo stly i n th e Ge e z o r a n ci e n t E thiopic
la n gua ge (rare ly i n t e lligibl e e xc e pt t o m e n wh o pro fess
so me thi n g mo re th an a n o rdi n a ry e duca ti o n ) so little do ,

th e y l e a rn tha t whe n o blige d to o ccupy th e m se lv e s in the

pursuits o f li fe up o n which th e y u sua lly e n t e r a t a n early
,

a ge th e y s e ld o m re ta i n a n y v e stige s o f lit e ra ry i n st ruction

, .

Th e childre n o f t h e p o o re r cl asse s h a v e n o t t h e a dvan tage

o f e ve n th e se fe w me n ta l a cquire me n t s T h e b o y s a re turned .

o ut wild t o l o o k a fte r t h e sh e e p an d c a ttl e a n d t h e girls

fro m e a rly childh o o d a re se n t t o fe tch wa t e r fro m th e we ll or

bro o k first i n a go urd a n d a fte rward s in a ja r pro p o rti o ned
, ,

t o t h e ir stre n gth Th e se o ccup a ti o n s a re n o t c o n d ucive to

.

t h e mo ra lity o f e ithe r s e x I f t h e w e ll b e fa r fro m the

.

villa ge th e girl s u su a lly fo rm p arti e s t o go thith e r a n d amuse

, ,

th e mse lv e s o n th e ro a d by si n gi n g se n tim e n ta l o r l o ve so ngs ;

whil e d uri n g th e ir h a lt at t h e w e ll fo r a n h o ur o r so they
, ,

e n ga ge i n ro mp s o f a ll kin d s i n which p a rti e s o f t h e o ther ,

se x fre qu e n tly j o i n Thi s e arly lic e n ce l a ys t h e fo un dation

.

fo r wo rse wh e n at a l a t e r p e ri o d th e y are s e n t t o th e wo ods

,

t o c o ll e ct fu e l B e sid e s o ut d o o r a vo ca ti o n s t h e gi rl s assist
.
-
,

the i r mo th e rs in d o me stic matte rs such as gri n di n g corn , ,

c o o kin g 81 0 ,
.

La di e s o f th e high e r cl a sse s s e ld o m e mpl o y th e msel ves

e xc e pt i n spi n n i n g which th e y d o se a te d o n t h e gro u n d
, In .

th e ir l e ft h an d the y ho ld th e c o tto n a n d i n th e ir right a ,

b o bbi n w ith which th e y gra du ally draw o ut th e c o tto n to a

,

re gula r thick n e ss fo r a thre a d th e n twi s t it by rubbing the ,

b o bbi n o n th e b ar e thigh an d l e tti n g it spi n fo r a mo ment :

,

th e th re a d i s th e n wo u n d o n it a n d a fre sh o n e drawn out ,

.

I n thi s ma n n e r thr e a d i s ma d e o f v a ri o u s qu a liti e s and is ,

k e pt i n h an k s fo r w e a vi n g i n t o qua rri e s c o m mo n cloths , ,

tro us e rs b e lt s & c Th e w e a v e rs i n Tigre a re chie fly Mus

, , .

sul me n th o ugh s o me o f th e m a re C hri sti a n s

,
Th ey use a .

ve ry ro u gh ki n d o f han dl o o m pla c e d o ve r a h o l e i n the ,

”
gro u n d lik e a saw pit Th e re d b o rd e r o f th e quarry is
,
-
.
C HA P . x x rv . BIR TH S AND M ARRIA GES . 255

ma d e o ut o f a sort o f co a rse re d co tt o n fabric wh ich i s im ,

p o rt e d fro m I n dia It is u n rave ll e d an d th e thre a d s are

.
,
” ”
re wo v e n i n t o th e qu arry The y ca ll th e re d stuff in dikky .
,

a n d pre fe r it t o re d thre a d tho ugh t h e l a tt e r b e o f a sup e ri o r ,

qua lity .

I n A byssin i a y o un g p e o pl e b e gi n t o thi n k o f ma rri a ge a t

a v e ry e a rly age I ha ve se e n bride s o f e ight o r n in e y e a rs
.

o ld a n d b o y s a t a pro p o rti o n a lly yo uth ful age are c o n s id e re d

ma rria ge a bl e Wh e n a la d wi she s t o ma rry h e o n ly i n quire s

.
,

fo r a girl wh o may p o sse ss tw ice th e n umb e r o f o x e n tha t h e

ca n mu st e r o r th e ir va lu e
,
H i s pro p o sa l s a re mad e t o t h e
.

’
girl s fa th e r an d u n l e ss th e re is so me stro n g mo tive fo r
, ,

re j e ctin g h im h e i s a cce pte d a n d e ve rythi n g i s a rran ge d

, ,
’
w ith o ut c o n sultin g th e l a dy s ta st e o r aski n g h e r c o n se n t .

Th e y a re u sua lly b e tro th e d thre e o r fo ur mo n th s b e fo re

ma rri age du ri n g which ti me th e brid e gro o m fre qu e n tly vi sit s
,

h i s fa th e r in law e l e ct a n d o cca si o n a lly pr o piti a t e s h i m with

- -
,

pre se n ts o f h o n e y b utt e r a sh e e p o r a go a t but h e i s n e v e r

, , ,

a ll o we d t o se e h i s i n t e n d e d wi fe e v e n fo r a mo me n t u n l e ss , ,

by urge n t e n tre a ty o r a han d so me brib e h e i n d uce s so me ,

fe ma l e fri e n d o f h e rs t o a rra n ge th e ma tt e r by pro curi n g h im ,

a gla n c e a t h i s cru e l fa ir o n e F o r thi s p urp o se h e c o n c e a l s.

hi mse l f be hi n d a d o o r o r o th e r co n ve n i e n t h idi n g pla c e whil e -

,

t h e l a dy o n so me pre t e xt o r o th e r i s l e d p a st it
, Sh o uld , .

sh e h o we ve r su sp e ct a trick an d di sc o v e r h im sh e w o uld
, , , ,

ma k e a gre a t upro a r c o ve r h e r fa ce a n d scre a mi n g run , , , ,

awa y a n d hid e h e rse l f a s th o ugh h e r se n se o f p ro p ri e ty w e re

,

gre a t ly o ffe n de d by th e i n tru si o n ; altho ugh pre vi o u s to h i s

ma ki n g th e o ffe r sh e wo uld h av e th o ught it n o ha rm t o ro mp
with h i m o r an y o t h e r ma l e a cqua i n ta n c e i n t h e mo st fre e
, ,

a n d e a sy ma n n e r Eve n afte r sh e h a s b e e n b e tro the d sh e

.
,

i s a t h o me t o e ve ry o n e e xc e pt t o h im wh o mo st sigh s fo r
t h e light o f h e r co u n te n an c e .

I n Tigre a n d e sp e cia lly i n Sh iré th e re i s a sup e rstiti o n

, , ,
’
tha t if a girl l e a v e h e r fa th e r s h o use duri n g t h e in te rva l
be twe e n h e r b e tro tha l an d marri a ge sh e w ill b e bitte n by a
sn ak e .

Wh e n th e we ddi n g day a ppro a ch e s t h e gi rl i s we ll wa sh e d

-
, ,
2 56 L IFE IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . x xrv .

h e r h air co mbe d an d tre sse d , an d sh e

r e n d e re d i n every is
wa y as agre e a bl e as po ssibl e Sh e h as th e n t o un d e rgo a
.

c o urse o f di e t an d me d ici n e
,
fo r th e purpo se o f o b viating
,

an y i n c o n ve n i e n ce t h a t might a ri se fro m th e fa ri n a c e o u s food

o n which t h e peo pl e p ri n cipa lly sub si st A da y o r tw o be fore.

t ha t a p po i n te d fo r t h e marri age a das s o r b o we r i s e re cted

, .

It is mad e o f a fra me wo rk o f sta k e s Th e up right s a re driven .

i n to th e gro un d an d th e h o riz o n tal sta ke s fa s t e n e d t o them

,

by liga me n ts o f bark o r o f suppl e sho o t s o f t r e e s a n d co vered ,

with gre e n bran ch e s t o pro t e ct th e in t e ri o r fro m t h e sun Of .

we t th e re is n o fea r e xc e pt in th e se a so n o f th e p e rio dical

,

ra i n s
. Th e se bo we rs a re made large o r sma ll a cc o rding to ,

t h e n umb e r o f vi sito rs l ike ly t o b e a sse mbl e d A ll t h e fri ends .

wh o h a ve b e e n i n vit e d a rrive in t h e c o u rse o f t h e a ft e rnoon

o f t h e pr e vi o u s d a y an d if t h e we ddi n g t a k e s pl a ce in a

to wn a se rvan t i s u sually se n t to ca ll th e gue s ts o f d i stin ction

,
.

D urin g my st a y a t Ad o ua I was i n vi t e d t o s e v e ra l wed

di n gs a mo n g o th e rs I was aske d t o t h e h o u s e o f the
,

G re e k ta il o r D e me triu s o r as h e i s more
”
, Se e dy P e tr o s
,
“
,

c o mmo n ly ca ll e d he re to as si st a t t h e ma rri age o f his

,

d aughte r by an Abyss in ian wo man to a man o f t h e c o untry .

Whe n t h e we ddi n g ta ke s pla ce in a t o wn as w as t h e case ,

o n thi s o cc as i o n t h e cro wd i s e xc e ss iv e : i n vit e d o r un

,

i n vit e d e ve ryb o dy co me s wh o h as n o thi n g b e tt e r t o do or

, ,

w h o i s a n xi o u s t o fill h i s sto ma ch A cro w d o f these .

hu n gry idl e rs c o n gre ga te ro u n d th e d o o r a n d o ft e n endea ,

v o ur t o fo rc e a n e n tra n ce w he re a rtifice o r go o d wo rds fall

,

t o pro cure it fo r th e m a n d thu s giv e a gr e a t d e a l o f a nnoy

,

an c e t o t h e se rv a n t s a pp o i n t e d t o ke e p t h e d o o rs These . ,

h o we ve r a re a ssi ste d by a n umb e r o f y o u n g me n from

,

a mo n g th e n e ighb o urs an d fri e n d s o f t h e h o u se who on ,

and
”
such o cca s i o n s v o lu n t e e r th e ir se rvic e s as a ga fari

wa it e rs o r t o ma k e th e mse lv e s ge n erally u s e ful

, Se veral of .

the se a rme d lik e th e d o o rke e pe rs with l o n g w a n d s remain

’

, ,

i n th e cl a ss
“
t o k e e p o rd e r t o sh o w p e o pl e th e ir places
, ,

a n d t o ma k e wa y fo r n e w c o me rs by di smi s s i n g o l d o nes
-
.

’
Ab o ut tw o o cl o ck i n th e a fte rn o o n o f t h e d a y preceding
ct m
”
t h e we ddi n g Se e dy P e tro s
, se n t a se rva n t t o c o n d u e
258 L IFE IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P XXIV
. .

wh e re t h e white s we re t o b e se a e t d a lo n e . We w e re v
se en

i n a ll — D e me t riu s th e ma st e r o f th e fe a s t ; a n Al banian
,

s ilve rsmi t h wh o h a d run awa y fro m Kh a rt o u m w i t h a qu

,
an

tity o f silv e r which h ad b e e n giv e n h i m t o b e w o rke d ; a

C o pt wh o h ad b e e n se rvan t t o a p ri e s t ; a m a n n amed
i

We lda R afa e l wh o se gran dfa th e r w a s a n A rme n ian ;

,

H ajji Y o han n e s (wh o h a d b e e n a c o i n e r) al so Arme ,

n ia n ; a n d o ld H ajji A l i w h o h a d b e e n a se r v a n t o f so me
,

o f t h e M a me luk e s a n d h a d fle d with th e m fr o m Egypt

,

Such wa s o ur se l e ct p a rty ; a n d th o ugh m o s t o f th e m from ,

l o n g re sid e n ce i n t h e co u n try mu st h av e b e e n w e ll accus ,

t o me d t o A by ssi n ia n man n e rs ye t e a c h pre fe rre d a se at on

,

t h e c o uch a n xi o u s t o a rro ga t e t o hims e lf t h e s up e ri o rity of

,

whit e d e sc e n t O n e h o we v e r ca ll e d
.
,
I n ge de r so n of a
, ,

Gre e k n a me d Ap o st o li h ad b e e n a ccu s t o m e d t o eat raw

,

b e e f fro m childh o o d an d pre fe rr e d it an d A by ss in ia n so ciety

,

t o a ll s uch va i n di sti n cti o n s .

Th e A byssi n ia n gu e st s we re s qu att e d ro un d t h e ta bl es in
l o n g ro ws fe e di n g a s if th e ir liv e s d e p e n d e d o n t h e quantity
,

the y co uld d e vo ur a n d wa shi n g it d o wn wi th fl o o ds of

,

dri n k I n e ve r c o uld ha ve b e lie ve d tha t a n y p e o ple could

.

take so much fo o d ; a n d c e rtai n ly i f t h e re a d e r w ishes to ,

s e e a curi o u s e xhib iti o n in t h e fe e di n g li n e h e h as only ,

t o run o ve r t o Aby s si n i a an d b e pre se n t a t a w e d d i n g feast

,
.

I magin e t wo o r thre e hu n dre d ha lf n ak e d m e n a n d women -

a ll i n o n e ro o m e a ti n g an d d ri n ki n g i n t h e w a I h ave
, y
d e s cri b e d i n a fo mi e r ch apte r but with thi s diffe re nce ,

tha t t h e priva t e p a rty i s we ll o rd e re d a n d a rra n ge d while-

,
”
t h e public ha n g o ut i s a sce n e o f t h e mo s t te rrible
-

c o n fu si o n H e re a ll d e co ru m i s lo st sigh t o f ; a n d yo u see
.

th e wa it e rs e a ch with a hu ge pi e c e o f ra w b e e f in h i s handS
, ,

ru shi n g fra n tica lly t o a n d fro in h i s de sire t o sa ti sfy the

v o ra ci o us app e tit e s o f th e gu e sts wh o a s h e c o me s within ,

th e ir re a ch gra sp th e me a t a n d with the ir l o n g crooked

, ,

s wo rd s h a ck o ff a lu mp o r s trip a s t h e ca s e ma b e in their
y , ,

e a ge rn e ss n o t t o l o se th e ir sh a re O n e man wa s re po ned .

o n thi s o cc a si o n t o h a v e e a t e n ta lla k a n d tam ash of “ ” ”

raw b e e f e a ch we ighi n g fro m fo ur t o fiv e p u d s) and

( o n
C HA P . XXI V . B I R TH S AND M A RR I A GE S . 259

se v e n c ake s o f bre a d an d t o h ave dru n k twe n ty six pin t s o f

,
-

F ro m wha t I sa w I c a n b e li e v e a go o d
”
b e e r a n d t e dge .

d e al ; but thi s app e a rs rath e r a stre tch e r

”
We o f th e .

”
F ra n k se a t we re pre se n t e d w ith o ur sh a re o f t h e b ro un d o ,

& c ; but a s o ur th o ughtful h o st h a d i n fo rme d us tha t a

.

din n e r co o ke d by h i s o w n ha n d s i n th e T urki sh styl e wa s

,
.
,
’
a wa iti n g us i n a n i n n e r a p a rt me n t we me re ly fo r fo rm a lity s , ,

sa k e tas te d t h e o ffe re d d e lica ci e s a n d th e n h a n d e d th e m

, ,

o v e r t o o ur s e rv a n t s wh o sta n di n g b e hi n d us w e r e r e a dy
,

e n o ugh t o ma k e a wa y with th e m Th e silv e rsmith Mich ael .

, ,

b e fo re c o m in g t o t h e fe a st h a d it wo uld app e ar b e e n , , ,

p o u ri n g a co pi o u s lib a ti o n t o so me go d o r o th e r fo r h e wa s ,

c o n s id e ra bly e l e v a te d an d b e i n g an x i o u s t o sh o w o ff c o m
, ,

m e n c e d e a ti n g in th e Ab y ssi n i a n fa shi o n n o r did h e sto p ,

un t il h e h a d cut a l arg e ga sh i n h i s n o se .

It w as a mu si n g t o wa tch t h e fight s b e twe e n t h e d o o r

k e e p e rs a n d th e mo b wh o we re c o n ti n ua lly t ryi n g t o fo rc e
,

th e ir way in b e fo re th e ir turn It co uld sca rc e ly b e said t o .

h a v e b e e n a fa ir fight a s n o o n e w o uld t hi n k o f re tu rn i n g a
,

bl o w t o o n e o f the se o fii c e rs wh o se p e rso n s a re h e ld sa cre d ,

wh i l e i n t h e p e rfo rman c e o f th e ir d uty I n fa ct t o strik e a .

,

se r v an t wo uld b e i n such a ca se e quiva l e n t t o striki n g h i s

mas t e r Th e d o o rke e p e rs h o we v e r use n o such c e re mo n y ;

.
, ,

fo r n o t o n ly d o th e y strik e o n t h e shi e ld s but e v e n wh e n , ,

m uch pre sse d give to l e ra bly h a rd bl o ws o n t h e b o di e s o f

,

t h e in trud e rs A s so o n a s o n e b a tch o f g u
. e st s w e re w e ll

fe d th e y we re tu rn e d o ut n e ck a n d cro p t o ma k e w ay fo r , ,

a n o th e r ba tch wh o we re e qu a lly ro ughly j a mm e d an d

,

push e d in to th e ir pl ac e s ta ki n g th e ir tu rn whe n w e ll fill e d , , ,

t o b e kick e d o ut Thi s succ e ssi o n o f fe e di n g c o n ti n u e d t i ll

.

n e a r n ightfa ll We i n th e me an ti me h a d e n te re d th e i n n e r
.

ro o m an d di scu sse d so m e k ab ab s a pilla f a n d su n dry

,
“
,
”
,
”

o th e r N o rth e rn pre p a ra ti o n s .

”
A fte r this th e da s s b e i n g cl e a r e d o f a ll b ut a s e l e c t
,
“

pa rty o f th e in vit e d fri e n d s o f t h e h o use a n d th e i r a tt e n d ,

a n ts in a ll a b o ut a hu n dre d p e r so n s i t wa s an n o un c e d th a t
, ,

t h e b rid e wa s t o b e pre se n t e d t o us Sh e wa s a cc o rdi n gl y .

bro ugh t in ca rri e d lik e a sa ck o f fl o u r o n th e b a ck o f a

,

s 2
2 60 LIFE I N A B YS S I N I A . C H A P XXIV . .

ma l e re lative , wh o tro tte d in with h e r, pre c e d e d by a nu m

b er of p e rso n s e ach b e arin g a lighte d ta p e r a n d fo ll o wed
, ,

by a cro wd o f wo me n wh o fill e d t h e a ir w ith th e ir shrill

,

cri e s Th e be are r dro pp e d hi s pa ck o n a s t o o l in fro n t of

.
,

t h e pl a c e wh e re we F ra n k s a n d t h e e ld e rs w e re s itt in g and ,

s h e r e c e ive d th e b e n e di c t i o n o f th e p a rty Pl a cin g our .

han d s o n h e r he a d o n e a ft e r th e o the r we e a ch e xpre ssed

, ,

s o m e wi sh fo r h e r future w e l fa re an d h a ppi n e s s an d got ,

o ur h an d s we ll gr e ase d fo r o ur p a in s Mu s ic a n d d an cin g .

the n b e gan .

B ut b e fo re We pro c e e d w e wi l l give so me id e a o f the

me a n s a n d me th o d s th e y p o sse ss i n thi s l an d fo r cultivating
t h e Mu se s Th e ir mu sica l i n stru me n t s are n o t o f much
.

”
v a ri e ty ,
n o r o f gre a t c o mp a ss Th e n e ga rit. o r b ig ,

d ru ms a re u se d o n ly by gre a t chi e fta i n s o f th e highest

,

ra n k I n Tigre ce rta in pro vi n c e s giv e a right t o t h e use of

.

th e n e ga rit t o t h e chi e f w h o go ve rn s the m O ubi uses .

fo rty fo ur ; e a ch o f h i s so n s thirty tw o ; o th e r chi e ftains

- -

Mi n o r go ve rn me n ts use th e a mb ilta
”
s i x t e e n o r twe n ty
“
.

and cu n d an me la kh a t a n d o th e rs t h e l a tt e r o n ly The
”
, .

a mb ilta are a se t o f fiv e o r si x pip e s o r fife s bl o wn like , ,

P a n pip e s e xc e pt tha t e a ch p e rfo rme r bl o w s o n e o nly

, ,

e v e ry pip e h a vi n g a di ffe re n t n o t e d e p e n di n g o n t h e l e ngt h

,

o r thickn e ss o f t h e i n s tru me n t Th e y a re pl a ye d in t urns

. .

like t h e R us sian h o rn ban d a n d pro duc e a t un e mo re or

-
,

l e ss re se mbli n g th e chi me s o f vill age church b e ll s prettily ,

e x e cut e d Th e y a re ma d e o f t h e shamb o k o a kin d of

.
“
,
”

”
ho ll o w re e d o r b amb o o Th e cu n da n me lak h a t co n sists
.

o f fo ur l o n g t ub e s ma d e o f c a n e h o ll o w e d w ith a b ell ,

m o u th a n d re e d m o uthpi e c e lik e a cla ri o n e t The ir n o te is .

h a rs h a n d di sa gre e a bl e a n d th e y a re pl a ye d i n turn s like

,

a mb i lta a n d a l way s a cc o mp a n i e d by a s ma ll drum

”
t he ,
.

T h e i n stru me n t mo st c o mmo n ly u se d by t h e p e o pl e o f the

c o u n try t o giv e ti me t o the ir d an ci n g o r as a n a cc o mpani
, ,

m e n t t o th e ir so n gs i s thi s which i s v e ry similar

”
c o b e ro
, ,

an d lik e it i s b e a t e n with
”
t o t h e Egypti an d a ra b o uka , , ,

t h e h a n d s : t wo o r thre e o f th e m a re fre qu e n tly pl ayed

t o ge th e r It a pp e a rs t o b e u se d by n e a rly a ll t h e n ati o ns of
.
26 2 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXIV .

th e brid e wo uld d e ign t o ho n o ur it by we a ri n g it at her

b ridal da n c e P o o r girl ! sh e wa s a mo st w r e tch e d victim
.

’
o f i n t e r e st e d mo tiv e s Th e p a s si o n s o f h e r d a rk e r mo ther s
.

ra c e co mbi n e d with th e Gre e k pride sh e d e riv e d fro m her

,

fa th e r mus t h a v e re n d e re d h e r ma rri a ge w i th a n e lderly

, ‘

n i gge r n o t a littl e di sagre e a bl e Th us much m a y b e said .

fo r h e r hu sb an d th a t h e wa s a man o f gr e a t e xp e ri e nce
, ,

a n d quit e ca p a bl e o f supplyi n g t h e pl a c e o f t h e fa th e r she

wa s a b o ut t o quit H e wa s fo rty five y e a rs o l d a cc o rding

.
-
,

t o h i s o wn a cc o u n t an d quit e as o ld a s a ma n o f sixty
,

wo uld b e i n En gl an d Sh e wa s a pre tty child o f t welve

.

e a rs o n ly H e w a s mo re o v e r h o rribly ugly a n d di s gu s ti ngly

y .
, ,

dirty B ut all thi s was co un te rba lan ce d by th e fa ct o f his

.

b e in g th e o wn e r o f twe lve o x e n which wa s al l th a t was ,

re quire d o f h im by h i s e stima ble st e p fa th e r .

P o o r F itti ck sto o d up we ari n g my di n o an d though , , ,

e vid e n tly n o t i n t h e me rri e st o f mo o ds re c e ive d a fte r she , ,

h ad go n e h e r ro u n d o n ce o r twic e th e me rit e d o r un m e ri ted ,

a ppl au s e o f th e c o mp an y A n o l d ge n tl e ma n a w o uld be
.
,
-

yo u n g b e a u a so rt o f A by ssi n i an pu mp ro o m d a n dy fo ll o wed
,
-
,

h e r ro u n d in a v e ry e l e gan t ma n n e r p o lit e ly spre a d i n g his ,

cl o th o v e r h e r o n o n e s id e as a scre e n a t o n ce fr o m the ,

du st an d fro m th e e vil e ye Th e y va ri e d this da n c e with

-
.

a ki n d o f wa r d a n c e p e rfo rm e d by t h e men
”
th e de b a ll
“
,
-
,

o n ly w ith gu n s a n d s p ea r s ; a d e scripti o n o f w hich I shall

,
'
h ave mo re l e i sure t o give i n th e a cco u n t o f t h e n e xt day s
fe stiviti e s . Thu s the y k e pt it up a ll n ight “
ti ll da ylight ,

did app e a r a s t h e o ld so n g sa ys ; but I h ad l o n g e re that

,

time b e ta ke n my se l f to my p e a ce ful d we llin g .

’
Whil e thi s me rryma ki n g wa s go in g o n a t th e bride s
h o u se a si mil a r e n t e rt ai n me n t wa s t aki n g pla c e a t the
,
’
brid e gro o m s who se fri e n d s h a d a l so as se mbl e d a n d in the
,

fo re n o o n o f th e fo ll o wi n g da y wh e n we h a d a ll me t again ,

i n th e cl a ss h e ma d e h is a pp e a ran c e B ut as t h e manner
,
.

i n which h e j o urn e ys fro m h i s o wn h o us e to th a t o f his

brid e i s ra th e r i n t e re sti n g fro m t h e p o mp an d ce re mony ,

a tte n di n g it an d a s I my se l f h a d o n mo re th a n o n e o ccasion
,

fo rme d o n e o f a si mila r p a r ty I will n o w fo r a mo ment ,

C HAP . XXI V . B I R TH S AN D MA RR I A GE S . 26 3

’
l e a ve brid e s family an d frie n d s wa iti n g in th e d ass
th e ,

a n d a cc o mp a n y t h e brid e gro o m o n h i s way thith e r .

H avi n g k e pt up th e dan ci n g an d jo lli fic a t io n a ll n ight ,

t h e b ri d e gro o m ( sho uld th e h a bita ti o n o f th e brid e b e a t

so me d is ta n ce fro m h i s o wn ) s e t s o ut a t sun ri se fo ll o we d ,

by a h o st o f fri e n d s a n d a tt e n dan t s t h e n u mb e r o f who m ,

it may b e re ad ily co n ce ive d d o e s n o t much d e p e n d o n a n y

res p e c t t he y fe e l fo r h im p e rso n ally but i s pro p o rti o n e d ,

t o t h e e s tima te d ge n e ro sity o f h i s fa th e r i n la w e l e ct a n d t o - -

th e qu an tity o f bre a d me a t a n d b e e r which th e y ma y , ,

ca lc ul a t e o n fi n di n g pr e p are d a t h i s h o u s e A ft e r h i m .

fo ll o w firs t h i s
,
a rk e e s
,
wh o va ry i n n u mb e r fro m si x
“
,

t o twe lv e a cc o rdi n g t o t h e we a lth a n d i mp o rta n c e o f t h e

,

p e rso n Th e se . a rk e e s are cho se n amo n g th e mse lv e s

“

wh e n b o ys The y a gre e wh e n pl ayma t e s to ge th e r th a t

.
, ,

wh e n e ithe r o f th e m ma rri e s th e y sha ll re cip ro ca lly ac t a s

a rk e e s o r brid e smen
,
t o e a ch o th e r Th e ir o ffic e an d
, .

duti e s will b e mo re fully e xpl a i n e d b y an d b y Th e who l e - -

.

p a rty i s we ll dre sse d : tho se wh o ha ve n o cl o th e s o r b a d ,

cl o the s bo rro w go o d o n e s fo r t h e o cca si o n H e tha t o wn s

,
.

a h o rse o r m ul e mo u n t s it t h e o th e rs but mo re e sp e ci a lly ,

w h o c o me o ut
” ”
the
“
ark e e s ,
h e a vy sw e ll s b o rro w e v e ry “
,

a rticl e o f fi n e ry th e y c a n p o ssibly la y e y e s o n e v e n t o t h e ,

silv e r amul e ts a n d cha i n s b e l o n gi n g t o t h e w o m e n o f t h e

n e ighbo urh o o d B e hi n d t h e brid e gro o m i s b o rn e a h a n d

.

s o me sil ve r mo un t e d shi e ld
-
pro b ably b e l o n gi n g t o h i s
,

m a ste r o r s o me o th e r gre a t ma n wh o m ay h av e b e e n ki n d
,

e n o ugh t o l e n d it t o h i m fo r t h e o cc a si o n ; a n d b e fo re h i m

o c o n sid e ra bl e n umb e r o f me n c a rryi n g gu n s a ll b o r

g a ,

ro we d ; a n d p e rha p s th e amb ilta a n d cu n d an o f t h e “ ” “

chi e f o f h i s pro vi n ce are l e n t fo r th e o cca si o n a n d pl aye d ,

b e fo re h i m th e w ho l e l e n gt h o f t h e ro a d H e him se lf .

m o u n ts p e rha p s fo r t h e first ti me i n h i s li fe a h a n d s o m e
, ,
’
mul e with it s me rge fi c o ra t c h a
” ”
an d s o uli s sy r
(
“ “
,
o n a

me n t e d p a tchwo rk mo ro cc o l e a th e r sa ddl e a n d bra ss n e ck ,

o rn a m e n ts) a n d with h i s cl o th a ffe ct e dly pl a c e d o v e r h i s

, ,

n o se,
ca rri e s himse l f ga ll an tly a n d lo o k s a s p ro ud a s i f h e ,
’
we re a kin g s so n a n d as i f th e gun n e rs shi e ld b e a r e rs
, ,
-
,
26 4 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A C HA P . XXIV .

mul e s fin e ry,
,
an d all re a lly be l o n ge d t o h im ; th o ugh per
ha p s o n ly t h e day b e fo re h e wa s t o ilin g an d cra ckin g his
whip b e hin d h is plo ugh o x e n .

’
Wh e n a rrive d n e a r t h e brid e s h o u se th e n e a r e st con ,

ve n i e n t pl ai n i s se l e ct e d an d th e h o rs e me n o f t h e party
,

c o mme n ce ga ll o pin g ab o ut th e gu n n e rs fire o ff th e ir match

,

l o ck s an d t h e l an c e rs d ash h e re an d th e re e n a ctin g alto

, ,

th r rt f sha m figh t Thi I upp i d

'

g e e a s o o s-
s o s e . s o n e to , ,
’
dive rt t h e brid e gro o m s mi n d l e st h e sh o uld b e n e rvo us on ,
”
firs t e n te ri n g th e cl ass A rriv e d a t t h e brid a l b o we r he
.
,

ta k e s h i s se at o n th e p o st o f h o n o ur pre p a re d fo r him ,

which i s a c o uch c o v e re d with a ca rp e t an d cu s hi o n s and ,

a c a n o py o f whit e c a lic o spre a d o v e r h i s h e a d t o k e e p the

du s t fro m falli n g o n h im A n d th e re h e sit s in s ta te ; his

.

n o se a n d mo uth c o v e re d with h is ga rme n t t o l o o k dign ifie d ;

whil e h i s ma st e r o r chi e f i s pro b a bly s qu a ttin g o n the

, ,

ro u n d a t h i s fe e t lik e a s e rvan t H e a n d h i s fri e n d s keep

g ,
.

’
t o o n e sid e o f t h e h o u se t h e brid e s fa mily a n d fri e nds
,

re mai n i n g o n th e o th e r sid e Th e c e re mo n i e s o f co urse .

, ,

c o mm e n c e as u su a l with a v o racio u s d e vo u1i n g o f raw meat

an d i t s a cc o mp an i me n t s ; a fte r which w h e n a ll h a v e well ,

e a t e n a n d d ru n k t h e pl a c e i s cl e a re d o f s tra n ge rs a n d the
, ,

brid e i s c arri e d in a s o n th e pre ce di n g e ve n i n g a ccom ,

i e d by t ap e rs & c Thi s ti me h o w e v e r s h e i s c o ve red

p a n ,
.
, ,

with a l a rge cl o th h e ld o v e r h e r like a pa l] a n d a s b e fore

, , , ,

i s pl a c e d o n a st o o l i n fro n t o f t h e pri n cip a l p e rso n s a ssem

bl e d Th e b rid e gro o m i s th e n ca lle d a n d a sk e d if he
.
,

wi sh e s t o ma rry h e r ; t o which h e o f c o u rse re pli e s in the , ,

a ffi rm a tive . Th e y th e n c ro o k th e ir littl e fin ge rs t o ge ther

un d e r th e cl o t h ; n a y e ve n so me ti me s I b e li e ve ki ss each
,

o th e r : th e n c e rt a i n wi se a d mo n iti on s a re giv e n t o b o th by

a pri e s t i f th e re sh o uld h a pp e n t o b e o n e pre s e n t a s well

, ,

a s by t h e e ld e rs i n a tt e n d a n c e ; an d t h e ma rri a g e se ttle

me n t o r th e agre e me n t o f wh a t e a ch o f th e m i s t o bri ng
, ,

i s e n t e re d up o n . H e re ma y b e said to b e t h e c o n clusion
o f th e w e ddi g c re
n e m o n —
y a ll tha t fo llo ws b e in g as a mere
fl o uri sh a t th e e n d .

H avi n g sa ti sfa ct o rily a rran ge d th e bu sin e ss (which is not

26 4 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A C R AP . XXIV .

mul e s, fin e ry , an d a ll re a lly b e lo n ge d t o h im ; th o ugh per

ha p s o n ly th e day b e fo re h e wa s to ilin g an d cra ckin g his
whip b e hin d h i s pl o ugh o x en .

’
Wh e n a rrive d n e a r th e brid e s ho u se th e n ea re st con ,

v e n i e n t pl a i n i s se l e ct e d a n d th e h o rs e me n o f t h e party
,

c o mme n ce ga ll o pin g ab o ut th e gu n n e rs fire o ff th e ir match

,

l o ck s a n d th e l an ce rs d a sh h e re an d th e re e n a ctin g alto
, ,

th r rt f sh a m figh t Thi I upp i d

'

g e e a s o o s
-
s o se. s o n e to , ,
’
dive rt th e brid e gro o m s mi n d l e st h e sho uld b e n e rvo us on ,
”
fi rs t e n te ri n g th e d as s A rriv e d at t h e brid a l b o we r he
.
,

ta k e s h i s s e a t o n t h e p o st o f h o n o ur pre p a re d fo r him ,

which is a c o uch c o v e re d w ith a ca rp e t a n d cu shi o n s an d ,

a ca n o py o f whit e c a lic o Spre a d o v e r h i s he a d t o k e e p the

du s t fro m falli n g o n h im A n d th e re h e sit s i n s ta t e his

.

n o se a n d mo uth c o v e re d with h is ga rme n t t o l o o k dign ifie d ;

whil e h i s ma st e r o r chi e f i s pro b a bly squ a tti n g o n the

, ,

gro un d a t h i s fe e t like a se rva n t H e a n d h i s fri e n d s keep

,
.

’
t o o n e sid e o f t h e h o u se t h e brid e s fa mily a n d fri en ds
,

re mai n i n g o n th e o the r sid e Th e c e re mo n i e s o f c o urse .

, ,

co mme n c e as u su a l with a vo raci o u s de v o u1i n g o f raw meat

a n d i t s a cc o mp a n i me n t s ; a fte r which wh e n a ll h a v e we ll ,

e a t e n an d d ru n k t h e pl a c e i s cl e are d o f s tra n ge rs a n d the

, ,

brid e i s c arri e d in a s o n th e pre ce di n g e v e n i n g a e com ,

i e d by t ap e rs & c Thi s ti me h o w e v e r s h e i c v re d
p an , . s o ,e ,

with a l a rge cl o th h e ld o ve r h e r like a pa l] a n d a s b e fo re

, , , ,

i s pla c e d o n a st o o l in fro n t o f th e pri n cip al p e rs o n s a ssem

bl e d Th e brid e gro o m i s th e n calle d a n d as k e d if he
.
,

w i sh e s t o ma rry h e r ; t o which h e o f c o urse re pli e s in the , ,

a ffi r ma tiv e . Th e y th e n cro o k th e ir littl e fin ge rs t o ge ther

un d e r t h e cl o t h ; n ay e v e n so me ti me s I b e li e v e ki s s each
,

o th e r : th e n c e rt a i n wi se a d m o n iti o n s a re giv e n t o b o th by

a pri e st i f th e r e sh o uld h a pp e n t o b e o n e pr e s e n t a s well

, ,

a s by th e e ld e rs i n a tt e n d a n c e ; a n d th e ma rri a g e se ttle

m e n t o r t h e agre e me n t o f wh a t e a c h o f th e m i s t o bring
, ,

i s e n t e re d up o n . H e re ma y b e sa id t o b e t h e co n clu sion
o f th e we ddi n g c e re m o y
n — a ll tha t fo ll o ws b e i n g as a me re

flo uri sh a t th e e n d .

H avi n g sa ti sfa ct o rily a rran ge d th e bu sin e ss (w hich is not

C HAP XXI V . . B I R TH S AN D MA RR I A GE S . 26 5

a lwa ys y ma tte r) th e b ride gro o m tak e s h is brid e a n d

an e as , ,
’
sa ns ce ré mome turn s h e r o ut givin g h e r i n to th e cha rge o f
'

h i s fri e n d s o uts id e th e do o r : h e th e n re turn s an d re c e iv e s ,

fro m h i s fa the r in la w t h e we ddi n g pre se n t s which u su a lly

-
,

co nsi s t o f a two e dge d swo rd mo u n te d i n silv e r a gun o r

-
,

two a rug so me bra ss ute n sil s such as a e w e r an d b a si n

, , , ,

an d o t h e r a rticl e s o f fu rn iture : a ll th e se a re o f c o urse in

pro p o rt io n t o th e we alth an d ge n e ro sity o f th e d o n o r .

Duri n g th e who l e o f thi s sce n e th e a wkwa rd shyn e ss o f

’
Fitt ic k s b rid e gro o m was e xce e di n gly ridicul o u s a n d mo re ,

es pe ci a lly s o wh e n h e wa s c a ll e d up o n t o j o i n i n t h e
“ ”
deb a ll o r wa r d a n c e Thi s d an ce i s p e rfo rme d by me n
-
.

arme d w ith s hi e ld s a n d l an c e s wh o with b o u n d s fe i n t s a n d

, , ,

spri n gs a tta ck o th e rs a rme d with gun s so a s t o a ppro a ch

, ,

the m a n d a t t h e sa me time a v o id the ir fire whil e t h e

, ,

gun n e rs ma k e si mil a r d e mo n strati o n s a n d a t la st fire o ff ,

the ir gu n s e i th e r in th e ai r o r in to th e e a rth a n d th e n , ,

drawi n g th e ir swo rds fl o uri sh th e m a b o ut a s a fi n i sh Our

,
.

po o r h e ro b e in g a pl o ughman h a d e vid e n tly mo re n o ti o n

, ,

o f w hi s t li n g h i s o xe n a n d cra cki n g h i s w hip th an o f u si n g

la n c es o r shi e ld s gun s o r swo rd s an d h a d d o ubtl e ss b e e n

, ,

ge tti n g up a littl e de xt e rity fo r t h e o cca si o n by ta ki n g

le sso n s fo r se izin g a large ma tchl o ck h e ma d e two o r thre e
passe s t o an d fro like a b e a r in a cage a n d h o ldi n g h i s
, ,
’
g u n a t a rm s l e n gth w ith b o th h a n ds a s i f a fra id o f it , ,

at l as t fired it o ff i n a hurry a n d th e n ru shi n g fo rwa rd

, ,
’
to t h e pla ce wh e r e hi s brid e s fe mal e fri e n d s an d re l a tiv e s
had co ll e ct e d re c e ive d fro m e a ch a trifli n g pre se n t
,
such ,

as a pi e ce o f c o tto n s tu ff to ma k e h i m bre e ch e s a silv e r ,

ri n g o r so me such trifl e
, e a ch o f which a rticl e s h e re c e iv e d

in b o t h han d s bo wi n g h i s h e ad
, Th e a rk e e s . h a vi n g ,

fo r a sh o rt t im e d an ce d with th e ir c o mp an i o n t h e brid e
roo m re j o in e d t h e brid e o ut sid e a n d re t urn e d h o me i n
g , ,

t h e sa me o rd e r o f pro c e ssi o n a s th a t which wa s o b se rve d

in th e mo rn i n g ; th e brid e b e i n g mo u n t e d o n a mul e wi th ,
”
a rk e e s se a t e d b e hi n d h e r o n th e c rupp e r t o
“
o n e o f th e

pre ve n t h e r falli n g o ff Wh e n p a ssi n g thro ugh a villa ge

.

o n th e ro a d all t h e wo me n o f t h e pl a c e c o m e o ut a n d
2 66 LI F E IN ’
AB I SSI N I A C HA P . XXIV .

gre e t th e m with th e ir ly ly ly s o f co n gra tul a ti o n till , ,

t he y re ach ho me .

N o w fo r t h e brid e sme n The y we re ma d e t o pro mise

.

u n d e r th e c l o th afte r th e man h a d a cce pte d h i s bride that

, ,

the y wo uld fa ithfully an d truly fulfil to wards h e r t h e part of

bre thre n wa it o n h e r ; sho uld sh e hu n ge r firm i s h h e r with ,

fo o d ; o r sh o uld s h e thir st with dri n k B ut th e y have , .

mo re tha n thi s t o do Thre e o r fo ur o f th e m ge n erally

.

s l e e p i n t h e sa me ro o m with t h e n e wly ma rri e d c o upl e to -

,

furn i sh th e m with a n ythi n g th e y may r e quire durin g the

‘
n ight .

A fe w d ays af e t r brid e sme n dre ssi ng

t h e w e ddin g, th e ,

th e mse lve s up in a ll t h e o rn a me n ts the y c a n c o ll e ct take ,

o r sma ll dru m a n d go s i n gi n g a n d d an cin

”
c o b e ro
a
g ,

be fo re e ve ry ho u se i n th e n e ighb o urho o d I f m t h e vicinity .

o f a l a rge t o wn wh e re th e r e are man y vi sits t o m a ke their

, ,

p e re gri n ati o n s o ccupy se v e ra l da ys o r e v en a we e k o r more , .

Ev e ry p e rso n th e y vi sit i s e xp e ct e d t o o ffe r a p re sent

a cc o rdi n g t o h i s circu mst an c e s I f h o we ve r a n y one .
, ,

s h o uld b e sti n gily di sp o s e d o r by ill luck n o t a t h o me the

, y ,

fo rcibly e n te r th e h o u se a n d purl o in an ythin g the y can

la y h an d s o n ; such a s s he e p go a ts o r fo wl s w hich m y , , ,

b e stra yi n g a b o ut th e ya rd s Eve n in t h e public market .

pla c e s a n d stre e ts th e y pe rp e tra t e th e mo s t a udac ious

ro bb e ri e s Two o f the m di sgui sed will a pp ro a ch t h e wares
.

o f so me s e ll e r whil e a third ,
pro fitin g by t h e c o n c e alment ,

a ffo rd e d h im by th e i r l o n g ga rme n t s which th e y purp osel

y ,

l e a ve trailin g o n th e gro un d s qu a ts b e hi n d th e m By pre , .

t e n din g t o bargai n fo r so me a rticl e o r o th e r th e y ge n erally

s ucc e e d 1n drawi n g o f f t h e a tt e n ti o n o f th e v e n d e r fro m his
pro p e rty wh o b e i n g se a t e d n aturally ra i se s h i s e y e s while
, , ,

t alki n g t o the m ; an d th e ir cro uchi n g co n fe d e ra te wa tching ,

h i s o pp o rtu n ity purl o in s fro m b e n ea th wha t e v e r h e ca n lay

,

h o ld o f an d th e n ma ke s qui e tly o ff N o r d o th e y scruple

,
.

Th e y h av e a v a ri e t y o f o th e r i n te res ti ng a n d curi o us li t t l e o ffices to

pe rfo r m , w hi ch i t a ppe a rs are c o n sid e re d as n o t

qui t e fit t o print in

E n gl i sh .
26 8 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXIV
.

liv e sto ck i s sto l e n it i s i mme dia te ly sl a ught e r e d an d de

,

v o ure d an d t h e p o o r man go e s b a ck e mpty h a n d e d

,
-
.

Th e wh o l e o f t h e p ro fits o f th e se th e ir b e ggin g vi sits and

th e fts a re c o ll e cte d a n d ha n d e d o ve r t o t h e bri d e groom
t o c o mp e n sa t e i n so me me a sure fo r th e e xp e n s e h e i s put to
i n supplyi n g the m with pl e nty o f fo o d a n d dri n k fo r three
o r fo ur w e e k s du ri n g t h e wh o l e o f which ti m e th e y re main
,

i n t h e h o u se ta ki n g it by turn s t o wa tch so m e o f them

, ,

a l wa ys r e ma i n i n e r t h b id w h m th y d v u r
g n a e r e o e , e n ea o

t o a muse a n d di v e rt i n e v e ry i magi n abl e th o u g h o ft e n in

a n o t d e s c riba bl e w a
y i n o r,
d e r th a t s h e m a y n o t re g r et
t o o much h e r t e mp o ra ry se p a ra ti o n fro m h e r fa m ily .

Such a re th e civil ma rri a ge s o f A by ssin i a ; a n d th e y are

by far t h e mo s t u sua l C hurch ma rri a ge s a re ra re ly so lem
.

n i z e d e x c e pt b e t we e n p e rso n s w h o ha vi n g fir s t b e e n civill , y
ma rri e d an d ha v i ng a ft e rwa rd s li v e d h a ppily t o g e the r al l
,

t h e d e cli n e o f li fe b e gi n t o fe e l tha t th e y c o uld n o t h o pe to

,

suit th e ms e l v e s b e tt e r a n d so d e t e rm i n e t o s a n ctify the

,

ma rri age by go i n g t o church an d p a rta ki n g o f t h e Sa cra ment .

Th e b o n d i s th e n c o n sid e re d i n di ss o lubl e Th e civil .

ma rri a ge o n t h e c o n tra ry may b e di sso lv e d o n t h e sho rtest

, ,

n o tic e a n d fo r t h e mo st trifli n g re a so n s
,
P a rtie s h a ve only
.

t o e x p re s s th e ir wi sh t o s e p a ra t e a n d a di v i s i o n o f pro pe rty
,

a n d chil dre n t a k e s pl a c e Th e b o ys i f th e re b e a n y usually

.
, ,

g o t o t h e fa t h e r a n d ,
t h e g irl s t o t h e m o th e r Thi s h av irg .

b e e n d o n e th e p a rti e s a re a t lib e rty t o c o n tra ct a se cond

,

m a rri a ge a s s o o n a s the y pl e a se It is n o t a n un co mmon

.

thi n g fo r a ma n thus se p a ra t e d fro m h is wi fe t o ma i n ta in her

i n a h o use n e a r h i s o wn furn i sh h e r with th e n e cessary
,

me a n s o f sub si ste n c e fo r h e rse l f an d fa mily a n d c o ntinue ,

a pp a r e n tly i n p e rfe ct fri e n d ship w ith h e r whil e a t t he sam e

,

ti me h e ta k e s an o the r brid e i n h er pla c e .

XV . D E A TH S A N D F UN E R A L S . 2 69

C H A PTE R XXV .

D E A TH S A N D F UN E RA LS .

1 p e rso n is
d an ge ro u sly ill an d n o t e xp e ct e d to live ,

t i s se n t fo r wh o ha vi n g h e a rd h is c o n fe ssio n
, , ,

s h im an d a d mi n i s t e rs t h e la s t Sa cra me n t
, Th e .

so n i s r e mi n d e d th a t a lth o ugh h e n e e d n o t c o n s id e r
‘

dyi n g ye t it i s a l wa ys we ll t o b e pre p a re d fo r t h e
,

n o t o n ly i n h i s s piri tua l but a l so i n h is t e mp o ra l

an d i s e xh o rt e d t o d ecl a r e h i s l as t wi sh e s with r e ga rd

li v is i o n o f hi s pro p e rty Th e se a re n o t writte n but

.
,

d e cla re d in th e pre se n c e o f th e pri e st an d o th e r

es . Sh o uld th e sick ma n d i e h i s fu n e ra l ta k e s pl a c e,

1e da
y A ll .t h e pri e s t s fr o m t h e n e ighb o uri n g church
le a n d th e r e l a ti o n s o f t h e d e c e a se d ca ll fro m t h e
,

o ps a n d s e n d me sse n ge rs t o t h e n e i ghb o uri n g v ill age s ,

s ta n di n g o n e mi n e n c e s th e y su mm o n t h e n e ighb o urs
,

n g a l o ud Such a o n e so n o r d a ught e r o f such

“
, , , ,

i s de a d C o me ye t o th e fun e ra l an d bri n g t h e
‘

.
,
”
an d t h e in ce n se b o wl s Th e pri e st s o n th e ir
co mme n c e chan tin g t h e pray e rs whil e t h e sp e cta to rs ,

n d wa il Th e b o dy h a vi n g b e e n pro p e rly wa s h e d
.
,

21 o ut i s wra pp e d i n a c o tt o n shro ud with th e fa c e

, ,

I . It i s th e n pla c e d o n a c o uch up o n w hich it ,

'
ca rri e d t o t h e buri al plac e but b e fo re t h e pro c e ssi o n
-

e d t h e b o dy i s r e mo v e d t o t h e o ut s id e o f t h e d o o r ,

1 be i n g a ga i n ra i s e d o n t h e sh o uld e rs o f th e b e a r e r s ,

o n e pr e s e n t wh o h a s a gun di sch a rge s it a s a

Th e fu n e ra l tra in th e n se t s o ut th e fri e n d s o f t h e ,

e d wh o a cc o mp a n y it wa ili n g a n d v i o l e n tly rubbi n g

arehe a d s a n d fa c e s w ith th e b o rd e rs o f th e ir ga rme n t s

27° LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . xxv .

h eld in b o th h an d s O n i t s way t o th e church th e pro

.

c e ssi o n make s se ve n halt s a t e a ch o f w hic h i n c e n se is

,

burn e d o v e r t h e b o dy a n d th e p ri e st s an d s cri b e s r e a d and

,

pray Th e s e rvice c o mpri se s t h e who l e o f t h e P salms

.
,

which a re r e a d v e ry quickly a gre a t n u mb e r o f t h e scribes

,

a s we ll a s th e pri e st s b e i n g pre se n t ; t o e a ch o f th e se is

a ll o tt e d a p s a l m o r t wo a n d th e y a l l re a d th e ir r e sp e ctive
,

r ts a t t h e sa me ti m e I n A by s s i n i a th e y h a v e a hu n dred
p a .

a n d fift y o n e p sal ms
-
t h e e xtra o n e b e i n g m e r e ly a private
,
’
hi st o ry o f Da vid s yo uth which it wo uld a pp e a r w e do not
,

a ll o w t o b e a uth e n tic
.
B e sid e s th e P sa l ms th e y r e a d ce rtai n
.

p o rti o n s o f t h e N e w Te sta me n t Th e se ve n th h a lt i s made .

’
a t th e church g a t e . Sho uld h o we ve r th e d e a d p e rson s
, ,

h o u se b e n e a r th e church fiv e o f th e se rvic e s a re re ad pre

,

vi o n s t o s ta rtin g a n d o n ly th e re ma in in g t w o o n th e road
,
.

Th e m o urn e rs u su a lly ta k e c a re to ha ve a m o n g th e ir party

s o me fri e n d l e a rn e d i n such ma tt e r s t o pre v e n t th e ir being ,
'

che a te d o ut o f a n y p a rt o f t h e re a di n g Th e c o rpse B .

carri e d by th e fri e n d s i n turn On e n t e ri n g t h e church .

a n o th e r lo n g s e rvic e fo r th e d e a d i s p e rfo rm e d a t t h e con ,

c lusi o n o f which th e pri e sts wra p th e bo dy i n a m a t made of

t h e l e a v e s o f t h e d a t e p a l m a s symb o l l ca l o f t h e b ran ches

-
,

o f th e p a l m which we r e spre a d b e fo r e o ur Sa vi o ur o n his

e n t e ri n g i n t o J e r usa l e m — d e a th b e in g c o n sid e re d as the

e n try o f t h e C hri sti a n t o t h e spiritu a l J e ru sal e m .

Man y A by s si n i a n s duri n g the ir li fe ti me w e a r ro u n d their

, ,

n e ck s a s e t o f a mul e ts a mo n g which i s s o me ti m e s o n e con

,

si sti n g o f a strip o f p a rch me n t n e arly s i x fe e t l o n g whi ch is ,

ro ll e d up an d fitte d i n t o a ca se o f mo ro cco l e a th e r On its .

wh o l e l e n gth i s writt e n a l e g e n d illu stra t e d w ith r e pre senta ,

ti o n s o f t h e Virgi n an d Sai n ts which re lat e s th a t whe n the , ,

bl e sse d Virgi n Mary was in h e ave n sh e re ma rk e d that no

—
,

gre a t p e o pl e such a s ki gs prie sts & c tho se i n fact who

n

—
.
, , , , ,

wh e n o n e a rth we re mo st e st e eme d a n d e xa lt e d o btained

a d mi s s i o n t h e re
. B e in g gri e v e d a t thi s sh e i n qu i re d o f ou r ,

LO R D ,
Wh o th en s hall b e save d P An d H e fo r h e r sake ”
, ,

c o n c e d e d tha t a ll such as pra ye d thro ugh h e r i n t e rce ssion

sh o uld o bta i n sa lv a ti o n A fte r d e a th th e s e am ul e ts are
.
27 2 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . xxv .

tak e s a l o n g ti me t o cure ; an d e ve n whe n h e a l e d th e part ,

’
re ma i n s fo r so me ti me a s white a s a Euro p e a n s s kin By .

d e gre e s h o we ve r it as su me s a da rke r c o l o ur a n d at last

, , ,

b e co me s e ve n bla cke r th an t h e re st o f t h e fa c e ; but in all

ca se s a ma rk i s a pp a re n t fo r se ve ra l y e a rs a n d fre que ntly ,

fo r life . Thi s cu st o m i s a l mo st e xclu sive ly c o n fi n e d to the

i n habita n t s o f Tigre a n d o th e r pro vi n ce s e a s t o f t h e Taccaz y .

I ha ve h e a rd tha t such pra ctic e s a re c o n sid e re d un la wful by

t h e A mh é t ra p e o pl e an d c o n se qu e n tly but
, littl e a do pted .

Pro fe ssi o n al si n gi n g wo me n fre qu e n tly a tt e n d t h e fi1neral

me e ti n gs o f gre a t p e o pl e an d so me ti me s ge t a h a n dso me
,

pre se n t a s a re wa rd fo r th e ir se rvice s ; but m a n y go in the

h o p e o f ge ttin g we ll fe d a t t h e fe a sti n g which t a k e s place
a ft e r th e c e re mo n y Ea ch p e rso n i n wa ili n g ta k e s it by
.

turn t o i mpro v i se so me ve rse s i n pra i se o f t h e d e ceased .

F o r e x a mpl e a s o n o r da ughte r will e xcl a i m

,
Oh ! my ,

fa th e r wh o fe d a n d cl o th e d me wh o m ha v e I n o w t o supply
, ,

y o ur pl a ce ! a n d o th e r si mila r e xpre ssi o n s ; w hil e h i s frie nds

”

o r r e l a ti o n s will c a ll h im
”
B ro t h e r a n d h is wi fe o r s e rvants ,

Ma st e r e a ch sp e a kin g o f h i m a cc o rdi n g t o th e d e gre e of

,
”

re la ti o n ship which e xi s te d b e twe e n th e m Th e pro fe ssi o nal .

si n ge rs w ill gi v e m i n ut e d e ta il s o f t h e hi st o ry o f h i s a n ce stry ,

h i s d e e ds ch a ract e r a n d e v e n h i s pro p e rty ; an d thi s to a

,

gre a t l e n gt h thu s ,
O h ! G a b ro u so n o f We ld a M o usa , ,

gra n d so n o f I ta Ga rra R a phae l & c & c rid e r o f th e bay , . .

,

h o rse with white fe e t a n d o f th e gre y a mbli n g m ul e o wner ,

o f th e D a mascu s b a rre l gun ( b aa ly a n d b e a r er of

-
‘

t h e silv e r m o u n t e d shi e ld wh y h a v e yo u l e ft us P & c

”
-
.
,

e n t e ri n g with a st o n i sh i n g r e a di n e ss i n t o e v e ry p a rticul ar of
’
t h e d e c e as e d s li fe a n d a cti o n s w hil e t h e b y sta n d e rs at the -

e n d o f e a ch v e rs e bre a k i n with a ch o ru s o f so bbi n g l amen

,

ta fi o n a d a pte d t o a m o urn ful cha n t

,
Wa i ! w a i ! wai ! ,
“

”
wa ila yay ; wa i lay wa ila ya y I , &c which h a s a pretty .

pla i n tiv e so u n d e sp e cia lly whe n a s i s usu a lly t h e case a

, , ,

n u mb e r o f so ft fe ma l e v o ic e s j o i n i n a m b il ta and
”
Th e .

cu n d an k e e p ti me with th e m a n d a dd n o t a littl e to the

”
,

e ffe ct
. Thi s c o n ti n u e s till all t h e e xp e ct e d fri e n d s have
a rriv e d an d h a d th e ir fill o f wa ili n g ; a n d a b o ut n o o n the
C HA P XXV . . D E A TH S A N D F UN E R A L S . 27 3

wh o l e pa rty re tire t o t h e h o use wh e re th e c o w i s kill e d a n d

,

a qua n ti t y o f pro vi sio n pro vide d fo r th o se wh o h a v e co me

fro m a d i stan ce Ev e ryth i n g e xce pt th e c o w i s u su a lly

.

furn i s h e d by t h e n e ighbo urs a s th e mo urn e rs a re supp o se d ,

t o b e s o o ve rwh e l me d wi th gri e f as t o b e un abl e t o a tt e n d t o

such pre p a ra ti o n s .

’
Th e pric e o f th e fo rty d ays ma sse s i s b a rga i n e d fo r by th e
pri e s ts i t usu ally a mo un t s t o fro m six t o twe lve d o lla rs o r ,

mo re a cc o rdi n g to t h e we al th o f th e fa mily
,
A t c e rta i n .

p e ri o d s a l so th e y e xp e ct to b e fe d by th e ir e mpl o ye rs wh o ,

o n t h e t hi rti e th da y h a v e t o s e n d th e m a n a bu n d a n ce o f

pro vi s i o n in clu din g a sh e e p o n th e fo rti e th day o n e o r t wo

,

co ws a s w e ll as va ri o u s o th e r thin gs are pre p a re d fo r th e m

, ,

a n d t h e sc rib e s a n d o n th e e ighti e th d ay th e y fe ast an d a t ,

n ight p e rfo rm ma ss I f th e fa mily ha v e c a sh e n o ugh in

.

ha n d th e t e skar o r wa k e i s he ld ab o ut six mo n th s a ft e r
,
“
,
”
,

t h e fun e ral but if a s i s o fte n th e c ase th e y are sh o rt o f t h e

, ,
“
i n di sp e n sa ble fo r th e mo me n t thi s c e re mo n y ca n b e p o st
”
,

p o n e d t o an y mo re c o n v e n i e n t ti me Thi s i s me re ly a .

”
bl o w o ut by way o f a fi n i sh It i s give n t o th e pri e st s
-
.

a n d a n y o th e rs wh o ma y c o me a n d i f it b e t o t h e me mo ry

o f an i mp o rtan t p e rso n a ge it will so me ti m e s l a s t fo r s e v e n

,

d a ys o r mo re O n t h e first day th e pri e st s c o m e fro m a ll

.

th e n e ighbo u ri n g church e s so me ti me s i n cludi n g th o s e o f

,

thirty o r fo rty p a ri she s Th e y a ll a sse mbl e i n t h e church

.

wh e re th e p e r so n i s buri e d a n d h a v e p ray e rs : a ft e r which

,

th e y a t o n ce pro ce e d t o th e fe a st ; b ut b e fo re a n y o n e o f
th e m ca n tas te a mo rse l th e h ai o h which i s th e fe e di n g
, ,
”

o f th e n u me ro u s p o o r wh o may b e c o n gre ga t e d o ut si d e t h e

g a t e s,
m u s t ta k e pl ace O n such o cc a s i o n s th e se
.
p oor

poe pl e n e v e r a ll o w a n y o n e t o e a t till a ft e r th e y h a v e b e e n

se rve d With l o ud v o ic e s th e y a dj ure th e a s se mbly fo r t h e

.
,

sak e o f th e SA V I O U R o r o n e o f t h e s a i n t s n o t t o c o mme n c e ,

eati n g t i ll th e y s h all ha v e first h a d th e ir p e rqui sit e A ma n .

the n co un ts th e m ta ppi n g e a ch o n th e h e a d with a stick ;

,

and t o e v e ry o n e o f th e m i s ha n d e d a bit o f t h e e n tra il s ,

live r o r m e a t ro ll e d up i n a cak e o f bre a d

, ,
Wh e n all ha v e .

be e n s e rve d th e y h o ld th e ir p o rti o n s i n b o th h a n d s u n d e r
27 4 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P XXV. .

th e ir mo uth s , an d
h o ut th e n wi th a l ong
s —
H ai o h
s os tm uto o n th e Lib e ra lly tran sl a t e d thi s would
l ast n o t e .
,

e xpre ss a pra y e r fo r t h e re surre cti o n o f t h e d e a d t o a new

an d b e tt e r li fe Thi s p a rt o f th e ce re mo n y i s ve ry im
.

p o rta n t F e w p e rso n s wo uld d a re t o n e gl e ct it o r t o hazard

.
,

t h e ma l e dicti o n s o f t h e a s s e mbl e d p o o r by tre a ti n g their ,

i mpo rtun iti e s in a n y way ha rshly a s such c o n duct wo uld be ,

a p e rp e tu a l r e pro a ch a n d a l a s ti n g so urc e o f a n n o ya nce to

h im wh o might b e guil t y o f it ; fo r sh o uld h e a fte r such ,

b e h a vi o ur h av e th e mi sfo rtun e t o qua rre l with an y a cquaint

,

a n c e o r o th e r p e rso n t o wh o m t h e fa ct w a s k n o w n h e wou
,
ld ,

b e i mme dia t e ly a cco st e d with Are yo u n o t t h e ma n who ,

“

—
ma d e n o h a i o h fo r h i s fa the r o r re l a tive P
”

O n t h e se c o n d d ay th e gre a t me n o f th e n e ighb o urhood

asse mbl e a n d t h e pri e st s o f th e church wh e r e t h e d e c eased
,

was buri e d a re a l o n e i n vit e d t o me e t th e m Th e rank of .

’
e a ch d a y s gu e st s d e cre ase s by gra d a ti o n u n til t h e se venth

da y which i s se t a sid e fo r th e wo me n o n ly
, O n the se as .
,

o n al l fe stiv e o cc a si o n s i n A byssi n i a th e c o n vive s get ,

e xc e ssiv e ly i n t o xic a t e d an d fr e qu e n t qu a rre l s e n s u e : nor is

,

thi s c o n fi n e d t o th e so ldi e ry o r o the r l a y me n but is I fear , , ,

v e ry c o mmo n a mo n g th e d e ft e re rs o r s crib e s an d not “

,

u n fre qu e n t e ve n a mo n g th e pri e st s Th e s crib e s a re indeed .

a n o t o ri o u sly d ru n k e n n o i sy se t the ir so n g
, B ri n g drink , ,
’
i s h e a rd e ve n i n t h e m o st sacred
”
a n d we ll d a n c e fo r e v e r ,

pla c e s an d o n th e m o st so l e mn o cc a si o n s A mo ng the
,
.

”
p o o re r cl ass th e t e ska r i s bro ught t o a c o n clu si o n in a
“

sh o rt e r ti m e a lth o ugh th e y i n v a ri a bly k e e p it up as l o ng as

,
”
the y ca n a ffo rd t o d o so Thre e cl a sse s o r b o o th s are .
“

so me ti m e s e r e ct e d : o n e i s k e pt fo r th e gr e a t p e o pl e and

t h e pri e st s an o th e r fo r t h e m ixe d mo b an d a third for the

'

, ,

w o me n Thu s t h e wh o l e a ffa i r i s fi n i sh e d in o n e day This

. .

i s d o i n g it e c o n o mica lly O th e rs pro l o n g it t wo o r three

.

d a y s F o o d i s pre p a re d fo r t h e pri e st s o n e v e ry a nn iversary

.

o f t h e fe stiva l .

O n e thi n g with r e fe re n c e t o buri a l s h a s ye t t o b e men

t i o n e d : th e re i s n o d o ubt th a t m a n y u n fo rtu n a te wretches
a re b uri e d aliv e i n A by ss i n i a o wi n g t o t h e e xtr e me igno ,
 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXVI .

C HAPTER XX V I .

R E LI GI GI V, & ‘
c.

C H R I STI AN I TY i s t h e pre va ili n g re ligi o n o f A byss i n i a , b eing

p ro fe sse d by th e maj o rity o f th e p o pul a ti o n , a s w e ll as by
t h e re i gn i n g pri n c e s o f t h e di ffe re n t sta t e s Th e re are, .

ne ve rthe l e ss c tt e re d thro ugh th e co un try m an y M o ham

,
s a ,

me da n s an d so me F a la sha s o r J e ws
, , T h e fo rme r are .

m o stly d e sce n da n t s o f fa mili e s wh o a d o pt e d th a t re ligion

i n t h e e a rly ti me s o f I sl a mi sm wh e n th e C hri sti an s of
,

[Ethi o pi a w e r e surro un d e d an d o fte n o v e rp o we re d by the

vict o ri o u s fo ll o we rs o f th e fal se p ro ph e t S o m e h o wever .
, ,

tra ce the ir o rigi n fro m se ttle rs e ithe r fro m t h e M u ssulman

Ga ll a o r o th e r n e ighb o uri n g tribe s o r fro m t h e A ra b s ; and
, ,

s o m e fe w aga i n are me n w h o h a vi n g l e ft th e ir c o u n try for

, , ,

a ti me o n c o mme rci a l sp e c ul a ti o n s o r fro m o th e r m o tives

, ,

ha ve b e e n se duce d fro m th e faith o f th e ir fa th e rs M oham .

me dan s a re t o b e fo un d in a l mo st e ve ry to wn o f A byssinia .

Th e y a re fo r t h e mo st p a rt e mpl o ye d i n c o mm e rce the ,

man u fa ctu re o f c o tt o n cl o th s an d such lik e

,
F e w o f them .

a re s o ldi e rs th e y b e in g e st e e me d by th e C h ri stians as
,

co wa rdly a n d e fle min a t e
Th e J e ws o f A byssi n i a are l e ss n u me ro u s th a n t h e Mo
h a mme da n s a n d c o n fi n e th e mse lv e s pri n cip a lly t o certain
,

di s trict s Th e y re ta in t h e a n ci e n t re ligi o n o f t h e country

.

b e fo re th e i n t ro ducti o n o f C hri sti a n ity .

Th e Go sp e l wa s i n tro duc e d i n t o A byssi n i a by F ru me ntius ,

a b o ut th e y e a r o f o ur Lo rd 3 3 0 Pre vi o u s t o t ha t date it
.

i s p ro b abl e tha t n o a tt e mpt h a d b e e n ma d e t o wards the

co n ve rsi o n o f Aby ssin i a ; a lth o ugh by so me it i s assert ed
that such an atte mpt was mad e b y t h e e u n uch o f Queen
C HA P . XXV I . RE LI GI ON , i n. 277

C a n d a c e , w h o m Philip ba ptiz e d ; while o th e rs pre t e n d th a t

St Ma tth e w a n d St B a rtho l o me w a ct ua lly vi site d t he c o un try
. . .

So me e v e n go so far as t o a sse rt th a t th e Vi rgi n M a ry he rse l f,

with t h e child J e su s, ca me in t o A byssi n ia wh e n sh e fle d t o
Egypt , an d sho w a pl ac e i n a high mo u n ta i n which is ca lle d
h e r thro n e o r se a t .

I n m a tt e r o f pro fe ssi o n , n o n a ti o n i s mo re l o udly C hri sti an

than t h e A by ssi n ia n s B igo t e d an d prejudice d i n t h e e x
.

tre m e th e y will n o t e at me a t sla ughte re d by a n y o n e but

,

a C hri sti a n Th e y are e xtre me ly sup e rstiti o u s in the ir

.

b e li e f o f mira cle s an d th e i n t e rp o siti o n o f th e sa i n t s th e ,

n am e s o f so me o f wh o m are c o n ti n u a lly i n th e ir m o uth s .

The ir fa s ts a re mo re n ume ro u s p e rhap s than th o se o f a n y

o th e r C hris ti an p e o pl e m o re th an two third s o f th e y e a r
,
-

be in g ass ign e d to a b stin e n c e N o r i n the i r fa stin g d o th e y .

m f i
'

g e t o fl a s e as ily a s R o a n C a th o lic s o r it s n o t s u ffici e n t

tha t th e y sho uld a bstain fro m a n i mal fo o d o n ly ; an Aby s
sin i an durin g fas t ti me n e ith e r e a t s n o r d ri n k s a n ythin g till
,
-
,

la te i n th e aft e rn o o n ; an d th l s a s may b e ima gi n e d i s a , ,

se v e r e mo rti ficati o n o f t h e fl e sh in a h o t a n d e n e rva ti n g

c lima t e It i s tru e th e M o hamme dan s do n e a rly th e sa me

.

du rin g the ir m o n th o f R ama d a n ; but th e y o n ly chan ge th e

d ay i n t o n ight fe a sti n g du rin g th e n ight ti me o n mo r e
,
-

l ux uri o u s fo o d tha n man y o f the m c o uld a ll o w the mse lv e s

d uri n g th e r e ma in d e r o f th e ye ar ; whil e th e A byssi n ia n ,

wh e n h e d o e s e at c o n fi n e s hi mse l f t o d ri e d p e a s dre sse d i n

, ,

a so rt o f b a d o i l o r t o an e qu a lly u n p a l a t a bl e di sh ma d e
,

o f a ki n d o f spi n ach ca ll e d h a mly o r go umme n

,
Thi s .

o il i s ca ll e d kivvy n yh o k e a ft e r t h e pl a n t n h o ke
y ,
fr o m ,

t h e se e d s o f which it is e xtra cte d Th e pl a n t b e a rs a n .

o ran ge fl o we r a n d t h e s e e d s h a v e s o m e r e s e mbla n c e t o
,

l i n se e d Th e o i l i s o f a v e ry dryi n g p ro p e rty a l m o st lik e

.
,

v a rn i s h an d i s n o t o n ly e xc e e di n gly stro n g a n d u n pl e a san t

,

t o th e tast e but a l so pro ve s to so me p e o pl e s o un wh o l e so me

, ,

t ha t t h e R o ma n C a th o lic mi ssi o n ari e s o bta i n e d a di sp e n sa ti o n

t o c o o k th e i r fo o d i n butt e r o n fa s t d a y s s o me o f th e m h avi n g-
,

suffe re d se ve re ly fro m th e use o f thi s o i l .

Ma n y o f th e A by ssin i a n fa sts are o f l o n g du ra tio n Th e .

27 8 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P XXVI
. .

time o f d ay wh e n th e p e o pl e may e a t i s d e t e rmin ed by

’
t h e l e n gth o f a ma n s sh a d o w me a sure d by h i s o w n fe e t and
, ,

va ri e s in diffe re n t fa st s Thu s th e fa st o f A d ve n t i s during

.
,

t h e l a st t e n d ay s o f t h e mo n th H e da r ( Oct o b e r) an d the
wh o l e o f Tah sas ( N o v e mb e r) an d du ri n g e a ch d ay till a
,
’
man s sh a d o w me a sure n i n e a n d a h a lf fe e t .

Th e fa st o f Ga ha d o n Epiphan y e v e t ill su n se t
, , .

Th e fast o f J o n a h duri n g thre e d ays ti ll t h e shad ow is

, ,

t e n fe e t
.

Th e fa st o f Le n t duri n g fifty five day s till su n s e t

,
-
, .

Th e fa st o f t h e A p o stl e s vari e s fro m t e n t o fo rty days till ,

t h e sha d o w i s n i n e fe e t .

Th e fa st o f t h e H o ly Virgi n fo r sixt e e n da y s till the

, ,

Sh a d o w i s n i n e fe e t .

I n a ll ta ki n g th e fa st o f th e Ap o stl e s a t fo rty d ays 1 54

, ,

d ay s .

B e s id e s th e se are th e We dn e s days an d F rid a y s making ,

n e arly 2 6 0 d ay s o f fa sti n g a d d o ubtl e ss m an y o ccasi onal

p,

o n e s o rd e re d by th e c o n fe sso r a s p e n a n c e fo r s o me f
, , ault
co mmitt e d D uri n g th e l o n g fa st time ho w e ve r they are
.
-
, ,

a ll o we d o n Sa t urda y s an d Su n da ys t o e a t i n th e mo rning ,

but o f c o urse n o thi n g co n tai n i n g an imal fo o d .

So me o f th e p ri e st s are ve ry rig o ro u s in k e e pi n g all these

fa st s a n d man y e v e n v o lu n ta rily a dd a n umb e r fo r their
,

o wn o b se rv an c e . Th e p e o pl e t o o i n ge n e ra l a re to lerably
, ,

a tte n tiv e t o thi s d uty ; an d I h a v e fre qu e n tl y me t with men

u n d e rgo i n g e xtre me la bo ur ye t p e rse ve rin g in w hat they

,

ha v e b e e n bro ught up to co n side r a s o n e o f t h e most

e sse n ti a l p a rts o f th e ir re ligi o n ; fo r strictly s p e a ki n g a man
, ,

wh o h a s b e e n k n o wn to n e gl e ct t h e rul e s o f t h e C hurch is
l o o ke d up o n a l mo st a s an i n fid e l an d sh o uld h e d i e in such
, ,

a sta t e o f di so b e di e n c e h i s b o dy wo uld b e re fu se d se p u
, lture
i n th e church e s . Go o d F rida y an d th e fo ll o wi n g day are
p asse d by th e pri e sts a n d th e rigidly d e vo ut i n a n ab solute
fa st o f fo rty e ight h o urs
-
.

I f t h e A by ssin i a n s fa st two third s o f th e y e a r th e y make

-

up fo r it i n so me d e gr e e by th e n u mbe r o f fe a s ts w hich they

c e le brat e As th e tradi ti o nal an d o the r c u sto ms o f these
.
2 80 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXVI .

pro c e ssi o n thro ugh th e t o wn ; part o f th e b o y s dre ssed

up a s pri e st s an d th e re ma i n d e r o f th e tro o p fo ll o wi ng as
,

mo urn e rs A s th e y go a l o n g i mita ti n g i n e v e ry point

.
,

a re a l fun e ra l th e y wa il an d cry o ut
,
Wa i wa i wa i ! Mr , , .

Such a o n e so n o f Mr So an dS o i s d e a d
- -
,
. A l as t h e great
-
, .
, ,

t h e g o o d th e ge n e ro u s man
,
a n d so o n a n d w h e n they -

a re ti re d o f wa lki n g ab o ut th e y go a n d ma k e a grave near

s o me o f t h e mo st fre qu e n t e d th o r o ughfa r e s i n th e pl a c e and , ,

sitti n g ro u n d it l a me n t i n lik e man n e r ; a n d t h e p a sse rs by

,
-

are o f c o urs e mightily a mu se d a t t h e sp o rt thu s ma d e o f their

s ti n gy n e ighb o ur ; a n d th e n e w s b e i n g t o ld a ll o ve r the ,

pl a c e b e co me s a so re subj e ct t o th e o bj e ct o f it
,
.

O n th e an n iv e rsa ry o f o n e o f th e ir A byssi n i a n saints ,

ca ll e d Ga bro Me n fus K o udd o s (sla ve o f t h e H o ly Spiri t) ,

e v e ryb o dy e a t s v e tch p e a s which h a v e b e e n m a d e t o sprou ,t

by s o aki n g th e m fo r thre e day s i n wa te r P o rti o n s o f th ese .

p e a s are se n t ab o ut a s pre se n t s a mo n g fri e n d s a n d neigh

b o urs I n e v e r c o uld sati sfy my se lf a s t o t h e o rigi n o f this
.

cu st o m So me p e o pl e have t o ld me tha t t h e spro uts repre

.

’
se n t e d th e sa i n t s b e a rd which was whit e a n d v e ry l o ng
, ,

o th e r s th a t th e y me re ly r e fe rre d t o hi s h a vi n g p a ssed the

,

gr e a t e r p o rti o n o f h is life i n th e wo o d s wh e n h e li ved on ,

ro o ts an d b e rri e s in e ve ry stage o f v e ge ta ti o n .

’
O n t h e mo rn i n g o f S t J o h n s da y a n u m b e r o f people .
,

yo ur s e rvan ts o r fri e n d s pre se n t t o yo u a bu n ch o f wild ,

fl o we rs a t th e same ti me sa yin g I n ko uta ta sh ( Take this

,
”
,

pr e se n t) : t h e w o rd h o we ve r i s n o t u se d o n pre s e n ting any

, ,

o th e r so rt o f gi ft Thi s d ay is re ga rd e d i n A by s s i n ia much
.

’
as o ur N e w Y e a r s da y It i s ab o ut th e time wh e n N ature
.

se e ms t o bur st a n e w i n t o l ife Th e ra i n y se a s o n b e i n g over .

,

th e c o rn i s spri n gi n g up t h e tre e s are i n bl o o m ; e v e n the

,

bird s a re d e ck e d o ut i n the ir bright e st plu mag e which as , ,

t h e s e a so n a dvan c e th e y l o s e a n d r e c o ve r o n ly with the

, ,

ra i n s Thu s th e littl e s ca rl e t a n d bla ck ca rdin a l s w hich in

.
, ,

thi s sp ri n g ti me o f Abyssin i a a n d i n t h e succ e e di n g mo nths

-
,

o f c o m ti me a n d h a rv e s t are t o b e se e n e v e ryw h e re ho ver

-
,

in g lik e littl e b a ll s o f fire o v e r th e mill e t fie ld s in wi nter -

,

dro p the ir brilli an t co l o urs a n d assume a mo r e quiet ,

C HA P . XXVI . RE LI GI ON , ( f t . 28 1

co s tu me ,
n ea rl y re se mbli n g tha t o f o ur co mmo n Englis h
s p a rr o w .

’
Th e ga y prese n te d o n St J o h n s da y is a so rt o f
n o se .

o ffe rin g o f th e firs t fruits t o re mi n d t h e re ce iv e r o f th e

,

b e a u t i ful sea so n tha t is se tt in g in I n A byss i n ia th e be are r .

o f go o d n e ws i s a lwa y s re ward e d w ith a gi ft ; a n d th is to k e n

o f t h e n e w y e a r b e in g co n s id e re d as such gen e ra ll y e lici ts

, ,

a gi ft i n re t urn Amo n g eq ua l s e ve ry o n e st ri v e s t o ri se
.
,

e a rli e s t in t h e mo rn in g
'

a n d t o b e t h e fi rs t t o
, o fle r h is

b o uqu e t t o h is fri e n d wh o th e n h as t o give h im a pre sen t

,

a cc o rdi n g t o h i s me a n s I n fe ri o rs al so gi ve fl o wers t o the ir

.

’
s up e ri o rs ; an d i n a gre a t ma n s h o u s e th e re i s a goo d d eal

o f ri v a lry am o n g th e se rva n t s as t o wh o sha ll b e t h e fi rs t to

w is h h i m ma n y ha ppy r e turn s o f th e da y fo r o n ly t h e t wo ,

o r thr e e e a rli e st c o me rs a re u s ua ll y re wa rd e d La di es .

g e n e ra lly p re par e a n e w p a ir o f bre e che s fo r th e ir hus ba n d s ,

'

s pu n w ith th e ir o wn ha n d s w hich th e y o fle r w h e n h e p re s e n t s
,

h i s n o se ga y w hil e h e i n re turn giv e s th e m a n e w dre s s So .

t h e ma s t e r with h i s in e xpre ssibl e s th e m is tr e ss wi th h e r ,

ca lic o shirts an d t h e se rvan ts wi t h th e ir p re se n t s are a ll

, ,

j o y o u s : i n fa ct a ll t h e h o u se i s ha ppy ; a n d with a fe w
,

e xc e pti o n s s uch as wh e re th e re i s S I C k n e s s much i n n o c e n t

, ,

pl e asure a n d ga ie ty a re I b e lie ve e n j o y e d by a ll cla sse s in

th i s co u n try o n t h e an n iv e rsa ry o f K o ud d o s Y o ha n n e s .

B ut no t o n ly i s it c e le bra t e d as a d a y o f fe stivi t y a n d
m e rrymaki n g th e fri e n d s o f p e rso n s p o sse sse d o f t h e d e vi l
—(which m a lady will b e de scribe d he re a fte r u n d e r its va ri o u s
d en o min a t i o n s o f b o ud a a n d tigri ti ya) w h o ha ve t ri e d all th e ,
’
u s u a l re me di e s witho ut th e suffe re r s b e i n g b e n e fi te d by th e m
—a wa it th e a rriva l o f thi s a n n i v e rsa ry a s th e i r la st a n d mo st ,

lik e ly cha n c e o f succ e ss Th e p a ti e n t is ta k e n i n to th e

.

co u n try an d pla ce d at a p o i n t whe re two ro a d s c ro ss e a ch

o th e r ; t h e n a cc o rdi n g a s th e y ma y h a v e r e c e iv e d i n s tru o
,

ti o n s fro m th e wi se a whit e o r a re d sh e e p i s d ra gge d th re e

,

ti me s ro un d hi m a n d a ft e rwa rd s sl a ught e re d i n t h e n a me “
,

of t h e F a th e r an d o f th e S o n a n d o f t h e H o ly Gh o st
, ,
Th e .

’
sign o f th e c ro ss i s th e n ma rk e d o n t h e p a ti e n t s fo re h e a d

wi th t h e bl o o d o f th e victi m which i s l e ft wh e re it wa s ki ll e d
, ,
282 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXVI .

an d t h e wh o l ep arty re turn s h o me wa rd be i n g ca r e ful o n no ,

a cc o u n t t o l o o k ba ck t o wa rd s th e sh e e p l e s t by so doin
g ,

th e y sho uld di sturb th e d e vil wh o i s supp o se d t o have left ,

th e man an d t o b e bu sy e a ti n g t h e mutt o n
, .

’
B ut m o re th a n thi s St J o h n s i s t h e o n ly cl e a n ly day in
, .

t h e ca l e n d a r ; fo r i n th e e ve n i n g t h e wh o l e p o pul a ti o n mal e ,

a n d fe ma l e o ld a n d y o un g go d o wn t o t h e n e ighbo uring
, ,

s tre a m a n d b a th e It i s a fa ct tha t e xce pti n g o n thi s occa

.
,

si o n th e r e a re ma n y o f t h e n u mb e r wh o
,
b e y o n d washing ,

the ir h a n d s be fo re a n d a fte r me al s an d th e ir fe e t after a ,

’
j o urn e y n e v e r tro ubl e t h e wa t e r fro m o n e y e a r s en d to
,

a n o th e r My ha bit o f wa shi n g e ve ry day i n t h e European

.

fashi o n gav e ri se t o much sca n da l o n my firs t arriv a l ; and it

was c o n sta n tly i n quire d I s h e a Mu ssul m a n t h a t h e thus
,
'

,
”
w a sh e s a n d so o fte n P O f a truth C hri sti an ity i s but a dirty
, ,

r e ligi o n i n Abyssin ia .

A s we h av e a lr e a dy sta t e d whil e sp e aki n g o f t h e fasts the ,

day b e fo re t h e Epiph an y i s p a sse d by t h e p ri e s t s a n d o ther

d e vo ut m e n in a b sti n e n c e un til su n se t D uri n g t h e a ft e rnoon .

th e H o ly Sa cra m e n t i s a d mi n i st e re d t o t h e pri e s ts o n ly in ,

the ir churche s A fte r th e c o n clusi o n o f t h e c e re mo n y they

.

fo rm in pro c e ssi o n a nd a cco mp a n i e d by t h e d e ft e rers or

, ,

scrib e s a n d b e a ri n g with th e m a ll t h e church p a ra ph e rnalia

, ,

g o d o w n t o t h e n e ighb o u ri n g rivul e t T e n t s a re pitched .

n e a r it s ban k s r e a dy t o r e ce iv e th e m a n d th e re i s a sto re of
, ,

c o me stibl e s o f e v e ry va ri e ty with o f c o urs e t h e u sual large

, , ,

pro p o rti o n o f b e e r a n d ho n e y me a d ; th e w ho le o f which -

go o d thin gs are fro m t h e vo lu n ta ry c o n tribu t i o n s o f the de

v o ut o f t h e p a ri sh .

Wh e n th e much wi sh e d fo r sun se t h a s a rriv e d th e fe asting

- -

b e gi n s a n d it i s fe arful t o b e h o ld with w ha t vigo ur t h e half

,

fa mi sh e d divi n e s se t t o w o rk The re i s a bu n d a n ce for

.

th e m fo r th e fo o d b e in g b e gge d as a supply fo r t h e ark or ,

ta b ot e t h e sup e rs titi o u s p e o pl e thi n k th a t th e y are d o ing s

,

v e ry g o dly a c t i n p ro v idi n g v ast qu a n titi e s w hil e in realit

y ,

t h e o n ly re sult i s tha t t h e pri e st s ma k e b e a s t s o f t h e mselves

, .

Th e wh o l e n ight i s o ft e n p a s se d i n a lt e rn a te pra y e r si nging , ,

da n cin g an d dri n ki n g Th e so n gs an d d an c e are b o th ofa

, .
2 84 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXVI .

All the se sce n e s a re v e ry wild a n d i n te re stin g I know .

n o thi n g mo re a gr e e a bl e th a n t o se e a la rg e n u m b e r o f sa
’
va ge s e n gage d in th e ir sp o rts o r dan ce s Th e mo re th o ro ughly .

sa vag e th e a ct o rs a re th e mo r e div e rti n g t h e s c e n e fro m the

, ,

cha ra ct e ri stic wildn e ss o f the i r ge sture s So me o f th e d ances .

o f t h e sl a v e c o un tri e s a re wo rth a ll t h e Gi se ll e s a n d Sylphides

tha t e ve r app e are d o n t h e b o a rd s o f an o p e ra h o u se -

.

The ir sp o rt s t e rmi n ate d e a ch p a ri sh fo ll o ws i t s re spe ctive

,

pri e sts wh o pro ce e d t o th e ir church ca rryi n g wi t h th e m the

, ,

a rk with t h e t e n c o mma n dme n t s a n d t h e H o st Th e ark is .

b o rn e o n th e h e a d o f a pri e st sha d e d by a ca n o py carried ,

t e n t wi se o ve r it a n d so sa cre d i s it co n sid e re d th a t n o o rdi

,

n a ry p e rso n may a ppr o a ch i t much l e s s t o uch it , Th e holy .

ut e n sils b e i n g d e p o sit e d in th e churche s th e p e o pl e re tire to ,

th e ir h o u se s an d p a ss t h e re ma in d e r o f th e da y i n feasting
,

a n d me rry maki n g .

Th e fo ll o wi n g da y is t h e c e l e bra ti o n o f t h e m a rriage in
C an a o f Ga lil e e a n d a l so o f th e fe as t o f St M icha el the
, .

A rch a n ge l . Thi s day is lo o ke d up o n by th e A by ss in i ans as

o n e o f th e gre a t e st o f a ll th e ir fe stiva l s fro m t h e i mp o rta nce ,

o f th e ir p a tro n sa i n t I n t h e church e s t h e gre a t e st cere

.

m o n i e s a re p e rfo rme d a n d th e re i s fe a sti n g i n t h e h o uses of

,

t h e w e althy So me littl e i s i n d e e d d o n e by e v e ry one

.
, , ,

wh e th e r p o o r o r rich a s i n A byssi n i a a ll cl a ss e s a re d e lighted

,

a t th e e xcu se af fo rd e d th e m by ho ly fe a s t d a y s o f m aking for -

th e mse lv e s a day o f jo llifica tio n a n d t o o o ft e n o f e xce ss and ,

d e b a uch e ry Th e pri e st s t o o are by n o me a n s u n willing

.
, ,

th at th e o b se rvan c e o f th e se h o lyd ay s sh o uld b e strictly

a tte n d e d t o b e ca u se o n a ll th e se o cc a si o n s th e y a re well fed
,

by the ir d e vo ut p a ri shi o n e rs .

M an y o f th e p e o pl e ma ke v o ws to th e ir re sp e ctiv e patron
sa i n t t o sl aught e r o n h i s a n n iv e rsa ry a bull o ck
, sh eep or , ,

o th e r vo tiv e o fle rin g i n o rd e r t o c o n cili a t e h i s pr o t e cti o n and

'

fa vo ur fo r t h e re ma i n d e r o f th e ye a r Ea ch fa m ily has its .

pa tro n sa i n t who se an n ive rsa ry i s ha n d e d d o wn fro m father

,

t o so n a s t h e family jubil e e O n thi s day t h e di ffe re n t mem

.

b e r s o f th e family do th e ir b e st to e n te rtai n th e ir frie nds by

so me so rt o f me rry ma ki n g e v e ry ma n a cc o rdi n g t o h is means
,
.
 Cu p . xx v 1 . RE LI GI ON , (ir e . 2 85

Eve n se rvan t s c o n sid e r it n e ce ssa ry i n so me ma n n e r t o , ,

c e l e bra t e a mo n g th e mse lve s th e ho lyd ay o f th e ir fo re fa the rs .

S t M icha e l i s much in v o gu e a s a p a t ro n
. B e sid e s h i m a re .

t h e V i rgi n St J o hn th e B a pti st T e kl a H a i ma n o ut Ga bro

, .
, ,

Me n fo s K o udd o s an d o the rs , .

’
A fe w da ys a ft e r St Mich a e l s i s th e an n ive rsary o f t h e
.

N a tivi ty o f th e H o ly Virgi n Th e pri e st s c o n gre ga t e i n

.

t h e church e s d e dica t e d t o h e r an d c e l e bra t e th e e v e n t by ,

so m e pra y e r a n d much fe as ti n g .

Li d d e t o r C h ri stma s d ay i s a s i n e ve ry C hri sti an c o u n try

,
-
, , ,

a gr e a t j ubil e e ; but i t s o b s e rva n c e i n A by ssi n i a i s m ark e d

b y n o thi n g b e yo n d th e u sua l am o u n t o f pra yi n g s in gi n g , ,

d a n ci n g a n d fe a stin g
, .

O f a ll th e ir fe a st s th a t o f Masc al o r th e C ro ss i s t h e o n e
, , ,

w hich i s c e l e brat e d with th e gre a t e s t a mo un t o f p o mp a n d

o u t wa rd Sh o w D urin g th e wh o l e o f t h e i n t e rva l b e tw e e n
.

’
S t J o h n s day an d thi s fe ast a d e sulto ry wa rfa re i s c a rri e d o n
.

b e twe e n th e yo u n g p e o pl e o f th e O pp o sit e se x e s i n t h e t o wn s .

Th e y al l sa lly o ut i n th e e ve n i n gs th e girl s a rm e d with ,

g o urd s c o n ta i n i n g a filthy s o luti o n o f e ve ry so rt o f a b o mi n a

t i o n th e y can pick up, which th e y c a rry c o n c e a l e d u n d e r

th e ir cl o th e s ; whil e t h e l a d s a re p ro vid e d w ith n e ttl e s o r
th i s tl e s a s w e ap o n s o f o ffe n c e Wh e n an y o f th e h o stil e
.

p a rti e s m e e t t h e c o
,
n t e s t c o m m e n c e s by t h e m e mb e rs o f

e a ch s e x in sulti n g th o se o f th e o th e r w ith t h e m o st o b sc e n e

a n d o ffe n siv e l a n gu a ge I n thi s wa rfa re th e fe mal e t o n gue

.
,

as i n a ll co u n tri e s h a s o f c o u rse th e a dva n t a ge

, ,
Th e n t h e
, .

b o y s a tta ck t h e girl s n e ttli n g th e m a b o ut th e ir n a k e d bre a st s

,

a n d s h o uld e r s whil e th e fa ir o n e s re t a li a t e by di sch a rgi n g

,

p o rti o n s o f th e ir o d o ri fe ro u s c o mp o un d i n t h e fa ce s o f th e ir
as sa il a n t s .

Th e e ve n i n g b e fo re Ma sc al th e c e re m o n i e s c o mm e n c e by
a d i s ch arge o f fire a rm s a t su n se t -
fro m a ll t h e pri n cip a l
, ,

h o us e s . Th e n e ve ry o n e pr o vi d e s hi mse l f w ith a t o rch a n d ,

d uri n g t h e e a rly p a rt o f th e n ight b o n fire s a re ki n dl e d a n d th e ,

o pl e p a ra d e t h e t o wn c a rryi n g th e ir light e d t o rch e s i n

p e ,

th e i r h an d s Th e y go thro ugh th e ir h o use s t o o p o ki n g a

.
, ,

li gh t i n to e ve ry d a rk c o m e r i n th e h all u n d e r th e c o uch e s , ,
2 86 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXVI .

in th e t bl e s kitch e n & c as if l o o kin g fo r so me thin g lost

s a , , .
, ,

an d ca lli n g o ut
“
A kh o a k h o ky tu rn o ut t h e s pi n age and
, , ,

brin g in th e p o rridge Ma sca l i s co me Th e m e a n ing of

t h e first t wo wo rd s i s n o t ve ry i n te lligible a n d c o n se que ntly ,

d o e s n o t a d mit o f a lite ra l e xpl an ati o n but I S h o uld liberally

tran sla te it Awak e fro m idl e n e ss ! (o r d a rkn e ss)
“
, After .

thi s th e y pla y an d p o k e fun a n d t o rch e s at e a ch o th e r

, .

A t Ad o u a th e diffe re n t p a ri sh e s ha v e a re gula r fight which ,

put me stro n gly m min d o f a C ambridge to wn a n d go wn ”

ro w . O n th e Ma sc al e v e tha t I p asse d t h e re t h e u nited ,

pa ri sh e s o f St Micha e l an d St Gabri e l aft e r a l o n g co ntest

. .
, ,

b e a t an d put t o flight th e me n o f St Sa vi o ur s o r Me dhainy

’
.
,

All e m I wa s o f th e re tre a ti n g p a rty ; fo r th o ugh I b e lo nged

.

t o t h e Mu ssulma n qu a rt e r th e l o si n g p a ri sh w a s n e a re st to ,

me Th e ro w u sua lly b e gi n s amo n g t h e b o y s a n d co n tinues

.
,

till so me man se e i n g h is so n s hurt o r in d a n ge r go e s t o their

, ,

re scu e wh e n o th e rs o f th e o pp o sit e p a rty j o i n i n against

,

h i m an d so th e fight b e co me s ge n e ra l
,
B e y o n d a few .

ro ughi sh club kn o cks it i s ra re ly tha t an y se ri o u s conse

,

q u e n c e s o ccur .

Early in th e mo rn i n g whil e it i s ye t d ark gr e a t m e n have

, ,

p i l e s o f wo o d e re ct e d o n th e high place s n e a r th e t o wn s and ,

se t o n fire The n o n e o r two o x en o r sh e e p a cc o rding to

.
,

t h e we a l t h o f t h e o ffe re r are ta k e n an d afte r ha v i n g been

, ,

le d thre e ti me s ro u n d th e bo n fire are sla ught e re d a n d their ,

fl e sh i s l e ft o n th e sp o t till it i s d e vo ure d by bird s o f prey,

hyaena s an d j a cka ls I n thi s an d ma n y o th e r o f t h e Ab yssi
,
.
,

n i an cu st o ms ma y b e s e e n tra c e s o f t h e an ci e n t h eathen
,

sa crific e s a lt a rs o n high pl a c e s & c

, , .

Th e p e o ple all ri se e a rly t o se e th e fire s a n d t h e Mascal

ri sin g sun fi n d s th e wh o le A bys si n ian p o pul a ti o n w id e awake .

I n th e h o u se s o f chie fta i n s t h e so ldi e rs a n d fo ll o w e rs present

the mse lv e s b e fo re the ir ma st e r a n d go thro ugh t h e dum “
,
”
fa te r o r war b o a st n a rra ti n g h o w th e y have se rve d h im and
,
-
, ,

h o w th e y will do so a ga i n wh e n o pp o r tu n ity o ffe r s an d re ,

!

ce i v in g fro m h i m e ith e r gi ft s pro mi se s o r b a re a c kn o wledg , ,

me n t s a cc o rdi n g t o h i s ge n e ro sity o r th e re a lity o f their

, ,

me rit s i n his e stima ti o n A si milar sc e n e ta k e s pl ace 011 3

.
288 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXVI .

are un fo rtu n a t e ly but t o o fre qu e n t e sp e ci a lly a m o n g so ldiers

,

a t t h e t abl e s o f gr e a t chi e fs O n th e v e ry d a y I a m sp e aking

.

o f Oubi h a d t o o rd e r t h e d e a th o f t wo m e n w h o h a d kill ed
,

two o f th e ir c o mp a n i o n s i n a qu a r re l a t tabl e V a n ity is one .

o f t h e pri n cip a l b e s e tti n g s i n s o f t h e A by ssi n i an s a n d it is

t o thi s we a k n e ss wh e n bro ught o ut by liquo r th a t t h e o rigin

, ,

o f mo s t o f th e s e qua rre l s ma y b e t ra c e d .

I re me mb e r mo re tha n o n c e t o ha v e h e a rd a re mark
so me thi n g lik e t h e fo ll o wi n g ma d e by o n e o f t w o m e n who ,

fro m b e i n g v e ry d e a r fri e n d s h a d ch o s e n t o si t n e xt t o each

,
’
o th e r a t t abl e : Y o u re a v e ry go o d fe ll o w a n d my very ,
’
d e a r fri e n d but (hiccup ) yo u are n t ha lf so bra v e o r hand
so me a s I a m
”
Th e v e ry d e a r fri e n d d e n i e s th e fact
“
,

in a t o n e o f v o ice d e n o ti n g an ythin g but a m ity an d states ,

th at h i s O pin i o n i s e xa ctly th e re v e rse Th e p a rti e s warmin .

t h e a rgume n t ; w o rd s a s i s u su a l wh e n m e n a re i n such a
,

st a t e are b a n di e d a b o ut with a n y me a sur e a n d o ft e n wi thou

,
t ,

much me a n i n g : i n sult s fo ll o w th e n bl o ws a n d i f t h e par

ti e s ro un d the m b e i n a simil a r c o n diti o n t o th e m s e lve s and ,

d o n o t imme di a t e ly se p a ra t e th e m it fre qu e n tly happens ,

tha t swo rd s are dra wn D an ge ro u s w o u n d s o r d e a th are the

.

c o n se qu e n ce ; o r a s i s n o t un c o mmo n o th e rs o f t h e party
, , ,

sidi n g with t h e qu a rre ll e r s pro b ably with t h e id e a o f settling

,

t h e a ffa ir a re i n d uc e d t o j o i n i n t h e ro w w hich i n the end

, ,

b e c o me s a ge n e ra l e n gage me n t I have n o tic e d thi s trait of

.

va n ity a s e xhibiti n g it se lf i n va ri o u s wa y s in a drunken

,

A by ss i n i a n .I a l wa ys fo u n d th a t th e b e st pla n fo r ke eping
a ma n qui e t wh e n i n thi s s ta t e wa s t o re ma rk t o h i m that
, ,

it wa s u n b e co mi n g in a gre a t man t o b e h av e in such a way

—tha t p e o pl e o f ran k we re dign ifi e d an d re se rve d in their
man n e rs a n d c o n v e rsa ti o n A n d thu s I h a ve a rgu e d very
.

succ e ss fully w ith my o w n s e rva n t s o n m o r e th a n o n e occa ,

si o n fl a tt e ri n g th e m w hil e th e y w e re tip sy
, an d th e n paying ,

the m o ff with a fiv e fo o t ma l e bamb o o wh e n th e y go t sober

-

ag a i n .

I r e c o ll e ct o n e fe ll o w wh o was p rivil e ge d fo r he had ,

a sk e d my l e a v e t o go t o a p a rty a n d ge t d ru n k O n re turning .

h o me in th e e ve n i n g h e stagge re d in to my r o o m in as dig
,
C HAP . XXV I . R E LI GI GI V, i n. 2 89

n i fie d a ma n n e r as h e co uld , ti n g himse lf b e side mean d, s e a

on my c o uch , e mbra ce d me , an d with t e a rs in h i s e ye s ma d e

m e a th o u sa n d pro te sta ti o n s o f atta chme n t an d a ffe cti o n ,

o ffe ri n g t o se rve me i n an y wa y h e c o uld but n e v e r by a ,

S in gl e e xpr e ss i o n e vi n cin g th a t h e c o n sid e re d me a s o th e r

th an a d e ar fri e n d an d tha t i n de e d i n a ra the r p a tro n izi n g

,

fas hi o n a ltho ugh th e same fe ll o w was in t h e ha bit o f wa shi n g

,

my fe e t an d ki ssi n g th e m a ft e rward s e ve ry e ve n i n g a n d
,
!
, ,

w o uld i f so b e r h a ve n o mo r e th o ught o f s e a ti n g hi mse l f

, , ,

e v e n o n th e gro u n d i n my pre se n c e ,
tha n o f ju mpin g o ve r ,

th e mo o n With hi s fe llo w se rvan t s t o o h e a cte d si mila rly

.
-

fo r th o ugh h e kn e w th e m all a n d th e ir ch a ra cte rs an d p o si ,

t i o n s h e a ddre sse d th e m a s h i s se rv an t s
,
o rd e ri n g th e m ,

a b o ut a n d upbra idi n g th e m fo r su n d ry p e cc a dill o e s which

, ,

th e y h a d do ubtle ss c o mmitt e d an d which thus came to my ,

k n o wl e dge I n fa ct in e ve ry p o i n t h e a ct e d t o p e rfe cti o n

.
,

t h e ma n n e r s a n d la n gu ag e o f a gre a t ma n ; a n d so o ft e n
h a ve I se e n th e sa me mi mic kry tha t it h as le d m e t o b e li e ve ,

t h a t t h e chi e f me n ta l e mpl o yme n t o f t h e l o we s t fe ll o w i n t h e

c o u n try i s buildin g c a stl e s i n t h e a i r an d pra cti si n g t o h i m ,

se l f h o w h e wo uld ac t a n d wh a t h e w o uld sa i f h e w e r e
, y a ,

g r e a t m an .

The re i s a fe ast ca lle d Ka da m So ua ur o r l e ft Sa t ur ,

“

”
da y ,
as th a t da y wa s fo r me rly th e J e wi sh Sa bb a th b ut ,

iv n up by t h e C hri stia n s fo r t h e Su n d a y a t t h e ti m e o f t h e
g e

re s u rre cti o n o f o ur Sa vi o ur Th e p ri e st s c o ll e ct a qu a n tity

.

o f r us h e s a n d bl e ss th e m i n t h e church ; a n d th e n a p ri e s t
,

a n d a d e a c o n ta k e th e m o ut i n t o th e p a ri sh th e d e ac o n ,

c a rryi n g t he bun dl e an d th e pri e st di stributi n g th e ru sh e s t o

,

a ll p as se rs b y bin din g th e m o n t h e h e a d o f t h e re c e iv e r
-
,
.

Th e y a lso vi sit a ll t h e ho u se s with th e m a n d ge n e ra lly ,

re c e i v e a han d so me pre se n t .

Th us much fo r th e fa st s an d fe a st s o b se rv e d in t h e
C h ri s ti an C hurch o f E thi o pia A s fo r th e ir r e ligi o n th e y .
,

a re ,
a s I h av e b e fo r e hi n t e d C hri sti an ra th e r i n p ro fe s si o n
,

’
A n A b yss i n ia n s e rv a n t, a ft e r w a sh i n g h is mas t e r s fe e t, d ri e s th e m
on h i s o w n ga rme n t , a n d th e n , st il l k n e e li ng b e fo re h i m, ra i se s o n e fo o t
in b o t h ha n d s an d k isse s i t .
 290 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXVI .

t ha n inpra ctice , ma n y o f th e i r O bse rvan ces b e i n g cl early

J e wi sh The ir ve ry church e s which are i n ma n y parts
.
,

e xtr e me ly n u mero u s, re mi n d o n e o f th e alta rs a n d t e mples

sp o k e n o f i n t h e Old Te s ta me n t n o t o n l y fro m t h e ir be ing ,

mo stly built o n high pla ce s a n d surro un d e d by gr o ve s but ,

—
,

a l so fro m th e ir i n t e rn a l c o n st ruc ti o n I n ge n e ra l t h at is .
,

with th e e xc e pti o n o f a fe w s qu a re o n e s chi e fly built by

— —
,

stran g e r s as fo r e xampl e t h at o f A xu m t h e churches

, ,

o f A by ssi n ia a re ci rcul a r a n d i n th e ir e xt e rnal a pp e arance

,

di ffe r o n ly fro m th e b e tt e r cla ss o f co u n try hut s fro m their

be i n g rath e r mo re re gula rly fas h i o n e d so me wha t o rn ame nted , ,

an d furth e r di s ti n gui sh e d by a rud e cro ss o f ir o n a n d com ,

sio n ally e v e n o f silv e r gilt o n t h e a p e x o f th e ir tha tched

,

c o n ica l ro o fs A b e ll i s ge n e ra lly pla ce d i n a n e ighb o uring

.

hut o r rathe r th e subs titut e fo r a be ll re al o n e s b e in g se ldom

, ,

me t with i n t h e co un try Thi s make shift i s a p e culiar kind

.

o f st o n e which wh e n struck pro duc e s a s o un d n early

, , ,

re semb li n g tha t o f t h e b e ll o f a sma ll vill a ge ch urc h in Ru t

land o f wh ich I re me mbe r ha ving h eard it sa i d th a t when
, , ,

ri n gin g fo r church it ha d so me ti me s o ccu rre d t o s tra ngers

,

vi siti n g th e pla c e o n a Su n day that th e p e o pl e we re a very

:

Sa bba th bre a ki n g se t as th e bla ck smith wa s w o rki n g away

-
,

a s u su a l .

Th e i n teri o r o f an A byssin ia n church i s divid e d in to three

co mpa rtme n t s — a circul ar wa ll co n ce n tric with t h e outer ,

o n e dividi n g t h e fi rs t pa ssa ge fo r t h e l a ity fro m t h e place of

,
:

t h e p ri e sts whil e in t h e c e n tre o f all i s a sma ll s qua re or l ,

b e lie ve so me ti me s circula r place call e d K a dasta Ka ,

d a stan o r H o ly o f H o li e s Thu s yo u h av e th e co urt of

, .

t h e Le vit e s tha t o f th e pri e st s an d th e H o ly o f Ho lies

, , ,

e xa ctly a fte r t h e man n e r o f a J e wi sh t e m pl e U n d e r the .

e xt e ri o r circl e are v a ult s wh e r e i n mo stly gre a t me n are

,

buri e d whil e th e e xt e rio r fa ce o f th e wall which se parates

,

t h e pla c e fro m tha t o f t h e pri e s t s i s a d o rn e d with th e rudest

p o ssibl e atte mpts a t p ai n tin g F igure s o f th e sa in ts their .
,

fa c e s a l wa ys in ful l w ha t e ve r p o siti o n th e ir b o di e s may be

,

i n a re d a ub e d i n o chre r a ddl e an d whiti n g

, , S t Ge orge , . . ,

mo u n t e d o n a ve ry ch a l ky l o o kin g ste e d, is ki llin g so me thing

-
2 92 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . CHA P . XXVI .

the Mu ssul man c o u n try ma de o bj e cti o n s o n b e i n g o ffe red

’ ”
ca me l s me a t “
Am I a Mu ssulman P sa id h e
.
”
No I .
,

re pli e d n o r a m I e ith e r ; a t th e sa me time putti n g in to

,
“

my mo uth a huge pi e c e o f fa t a n d an o n i o n Th e p o or .

fe ll o w th o ugh hu n gry re si st e d
, A ft e r fas ti n g h o w e v e r two
, .
, ,

o r thre e ti me s o r ra th e r e a ti n g maigre whe n we c o uld

”
,

g e t n o o th e r m e a t a n d i n fl ue n c e d by
,
m y v e ry g o o d e x

a mpl e h e ga v e up h i s pre judic e s an d was so o n a s fo n d o f

, ,

t h e ca me l me a t a s I wa s-
I th e n h a d a go o d l a ugh at h im
.
,

t e llin g h i m tha t a t l e as t a d o z e n ti me s b e fo r e h e h a d e aten

’
th e sa me ki n d o f me a t mi sta ki n g it fo r g o a t s fl e s h a n d had
, ,

a lso t w ic e as o ft e n dru n k o f t h e milk o f th e u n cl e an be ast

H e a t la st go t v e ry p h il o so phical like mo s t o f h i s c o un try ,

’
me n wh o a fte r a fe w d ay s re sid e n c e in a stra n ge l a n d o fte n
, , ,

dro p a lt o ge the r n o t o n ly the ir prej udic e s but e ve n their

, ,

C hri sti a n ity I h a ve me t me n i n Abyssi n i a w h o wo uld

.
,

a cc o rdi n g t o th e ir o wn a cc o u n t ra th e r die th a n s w e rve from ,

th e ir pri n cipl e s ; a n d ye t I have aft e rwa rd s se e n t h e same

me n e a ti n g Mu ssul man me a t an d e nj o yi n g th e m se lve s on ,

t h e fo rbidd e n ju st a s if th e y h a d b e e n b o rn a n d br o ught up
,

t o it N a y mo re ; I ha v e kn o wn i n sta n c e s o f th e ir t urning
.

Turk fo r th e ti me o f th e ir so j o urn i n t h e l a n d o f I s l a m and ,

re turn i n g to th e ir C hri sti an ity a n d bigo try a s s o o n a s they

s e t fo o t i n th e ir o wn c o u n try I r e me mbe r o n e m an espe .

c ia l ly wh o turn e d Mu ss ul man fo r th e sak e o f 1 5 0 piastres

a n d a n e w ga rme n t ; an d I h a ve h e a r d o f o thers
( I I.

wh o o n th e ir pilgri ma ge t o J e ru sa l e m b e ca me M u ssul mans

, ,

fo r t h e r o a d thithe r a n d ba ck aga i n ; whil e a t th e H o ly City

a n d o n th e ir r e turn t o A by ssi n i a th e y put o n th e ir Chris

t i a n i ty Th e se la tte r ca se s are h o we ve r I s h o uld h ope

.
, , ,

ra r e but still t h e truth mu st b e to ld ; a n d it i s a fact that

t h e Aby ssi n i an i s n o t u su a lly di fficult i n ma tt e r s o f r e li ion
g .

e xc e pt a t h o me A n d a s fo r th e c o n ve rt s th a t m i ssio n aries
.

may b o a st o f h a vi n g ma d e th e y are i n n i n e ca s e s o ut of , ,

t e n o n ly c o n ve rt s t o c a lic o a n d M a ri a Th e r e sa d o llars
,

O n e o r t wo o f wh o m th a t v e ry w o rthy man Sa m u e l Go bat

, ,
.

n o w B i sh o p o f e ru sal e m se e me d t o h o p e g o o d t h in gs were
J , ,
C H AP . XXV I . RE LI GI ON , 19 7 . 29 3

th e v e ry me n o n who m th e La z a ri st s fo u n d e d th e ir high e st
e xp e cta ti o n s an d o n who se s in c e rity t h e y pla c e d t h e gr e a te s t
,

c o n fid e n ce o n ly a v e ry sh o rt ti me afte r
, .

B ut t o r e turn to wh a t we we re talkin g ab o ut My A bys .

s i n i an aft e r a sh o rt re sid e n c e l o st a ll h i s pre judic e s a n d

, , ,

so o n l ea rn t my fa vo urit e A ra bic pr o v e rb Eh ! we h a ve ,

e a t e n o f th e cl e an an d o f th e u n cl e an like th e Ba rabra ”

N o w t h e o rigi n o f thi s sa yi n g i s a s fo l lo ws —A B e rbe ri

, .

h a d ti e d a sh e e p i n h i s hut a n d h a d go n e o ut cl o si n g th e
, ,

d o o r a ft e r h im B y so me a ccid e n t th e h ut t o o k fire an d
.
,

t h e p o o r sh e e p was ro a st e d alive Th e B e rb e ri was puzzl e d .

as t o w h e th e r h e might e a t o f t h e sh e e p o r n o H is c o n .

s ci e n c e t o ld h i m tha t all m e a t n o t pro p e rly sl a ughte re d wa s

fo rbidd e n ; but t h e sme ll o f th e ro as t was v e ry t e mptin g

so ,
”
sa id h e I am n o t ce rta in whe the r thi s me a t b e cl e a n
,
’
o r un cl e an tha t s a fa ct I f I si n it i s th e re fo re fro m
, .
,

ign o ran ce ; an d he n c e n o sin So h e a t e o f th e me a t , a n d

.

”
th e n walke d o ff t o t h e fakki M a ste r said h e “
if a
.
, ,

s h e e p b e bur n t a liv e i s it cl e a n o r u n c
”
, l ea n P D e cid e dly
”
un c l e a n re pli e d th e fakk i
,
Eh sa id th e B e rb e ri a s h e
.
,

w e n t awa y i n a sta t e o f t h e mo s t phil o so phica l tra n quillity ,

”
t h e n I h a v e e a te n o f t h e cl e a n a n d o f th e u n cl e an .

So me o f t h e Abyssi n i an s h o ld fa mily prejudic e s a ga i n st

c e rta i n cl e an an i ma l s fo r which th e y c an a ssign n o r e a so n
,

w h a t e ve r e xc e pt tha t like th e childre n o f J o na da b t h e so n

, ,

o f R e ch a b th e ir fo r e fa th e r s h a d fo rbidd e n th e ir use as fo o d
, .

O th e rs aga i n fo r th e same r e aso n will o n n o a cc o un t pa r

, ,

t a k e o f c e rta i n p art s o f a n y a n i ma l Thu s I ha ve k n o wn .

,

s e v e ra l p e r so n s wh o wo uld n e ve r ta st e e ith e r t o n gue o r

h e a rt pure ly b e cau se so m e an c e st o r o f th e irs h a d ma d e a

,

v o w o n th e subj e ct O n e o f t h e an te l o p e trib e c all e d

.
,

M e d auqua i s by so me c o n sid e re d u n cl e an fo r it i s said t o

, ,

fe e d up o n d e a d me n a n d I wa s t o ld th at o n o n e o cca si o n , ,

rt s o f a hu man fi n ge r an d a ri n g we r e fo u n d i n th e s t o ma ch
p a

N a t i v es of D o n go la , B e rb e r, & c , a re so c all e d
th e pro vi n ces ab o ut . .

Th e y a re o fte n v e ry e rro n eo usl y suppo se d to b e stupid , a n d man y

s a yi n gs an d bulls are fat h e re d o n th e m b y th e S e n na ris an d A rab s .
2 94 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . x xv i .

of one of the se i mal s I ha ve h e a rd th e same n o n se n sical

an .

s t o ry t o ld o f th e h are .

A s fo r th e an i mal s whi ch th e y w i ll e at th e se t o o mu st b e ,

kill e d a fte r a rul e ; th e an imal b e i n g th ro wn d o wn h i s head ,

turn e d to ward s J e rusal e m an d th e wo rd s I n th e n ame o f

,
”
t h e F a th e r a n d o f th e So n an d o f t h e H o ly G h o s t pro
, ,

n o un ce d whil e th e thr o a t i s b e i n g cut .

’
I ha ve sta te d h o w o n St J o hn s day a she e p i s le d ro und
,
.
,

th o se wh o are afll i c te d with th e d e vil & c Si mil a rly o n , .

o th e r o cc a si o n s th e fri e n d s o f a sick man will h o p e tha t b y ,

’
ca rryi n g an a n imal ro un d th e pa tie n t s b e d thr e e ti m e s and ,

th e n killin g it o r e ve n da sh in g an e gg o n th e gro u n d after

,

h a vi n g pa s se d it ro u n d h i s h e a d the y may b e n e fit th e suf ,

’
fe re r ; t h e an i mal thu s o ffe re d b e i n g mad e t o tak e t h e man s
pun i shme n t an d mak e a t o n e me n t fo r h im Thi s again is
,
.
, ,

quite si mila r to a J ewi sh sa crific e a ltho ugh th e Ab y ssin ians ,

wo uld b e v e ry l o th t o ad mit tha t it wa s so .

So much fo r th e re se mblan ce which man y o f th e ir cu sto ms

b e ar t o th o se o f th e J e ws tho ugh the re a re ma n y more ,

which a t thi s mo me n t I ha v e fo rgo tt e n .

C e re mo n ie s I h av e a lr e a dy men
”
U n d e r th e h e a d o f “

ti o n e d wh a t ta k e s pl a c e a t birth b apti sms ma rri ag e s & c , , ,

.

Th e o rdi n a ti o n o f pri e sts an d d e a co n s i s I b e li e v e t o l e rably , ,

si mpl e fo r i n stan c e I h a v e b e e n t o ld that o n t h e a rrival of

, ,

th e pre se n t A b o n u fro m Egypt th e ca n dida t e s wh o a re o nly , ,

re quire d to b e able to re ad a little we re co ll e cte d in a mass ,

n e a r t h e pl ac e wh e re h e wa s Th e bi sh o p th e n we n t thro ugh
.

so me c e r e mo n y an d e n d e d by pro n o u n ci n g a bl e s s i n g and
, ,

bl o wi n g i n th e dire cti o n o f th e a sse mbl e d cro wd wh o were ,

thu s all o rda in e d A m o n g th e se wa s a wo ma n w ith her

,

child i n arms wh o h ad c o me thith e r fro m mo tive s of

,
’
curi o sity Sh e t o o was o f c o urse o rd ain e d ; but I don t
.
, ,

re me mb e r he a rin g tha t sh e e ve r o fli ciate d I f a pri e st be .

marri e d pre vi o u s t o h is o rdi n a tio n h e i s all o we d t o re main ,

so but n o o n e can ma rry a fte r ha vin g e n t e re d th e priest

ho o d .

So me but n o t all o f t h e A byssin i an s b e lie v e i n th e tran

, ,
 2 96 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXVI .

th e human n a t ur e in th e p e rso n o f C hri st T hi s p arty is .

p ri n cip ally t o b e fo u n d in t h e p ro vi n c e s o f G o dja m and

Las ta Th e third O pi n i o n pre d o mi n a tin g in a l l th e o ther
.
,

pro vi n ce s o f A byssi n ia e ve n in Sho a i s th a t J e s u s Chri st

, , ,

as ma n a lth o ugh u n it e d t o th e G o dh e a d fr o m t h e mo ment

,

o f H is c o n c e pti o n r e c e iv e d t h e H o ly Gh o s t in t h e human
,

p a rt o f H i s n a ture i n th e sa me man n e r a s w e re c e ive H im

,

vi z.
,
a s a gi ft o f t h e F a th e r — in o rd e r th a t H e might be
e n a ble d t o a cc o mpli sh a s ma n t h e wo rk o f o ur r e d e mpti o n :
, ,

wh e n c e th e y c o n clud e th a t b e cau se J e su s C hri s t re ce ived

,

t h e H o ly Spirit a s we re c e ive H i m H i s u n cti o n i s t o be ,

ca ll e d a third birth The se are th e mo st t o l e ra n t I have

. .

un d e rsto o d tha t aft e r my de pa rture fro m G o n d a r so me o f

, ,

t h e mo st l e a rn e d me n l e ft o ff ca lli n g t h e u n cti o n o f J e sus

C hri st a birth I t app e a rs tha t th e se di ffe re n c e s o f o pinion
.

are fo u n d e d up o n t h e di ffe re n t vi e ws th e y h a v e a d o pt e d of

t h e two n a tu re s o f J e su s C hri st ; a lth o ugh a cc o rdi n g t o the ,

l e tte r th e y are a ll Mo n o so ph yt e s Th e y h o l d a s all the

, .
,

o th e r se ct s o f t h e E a st d o th a t t h e H o ly Spirit pro ce eds

,

fro m th e F a th e r o n ly I f we e xc e pt th e di fle re n ce s of
'

o pi n i o n co n c e rn i n g th e u n cti o n o f J e su s C hri st th e y a ll have ,

n e a rly t h e sam e sup e rs titi o n

”
.

Th e re ve re n c e in which t h e sa i n ts a re he ld by t h e Abys
si n i an s i s o f a pi e c e with t h e re s t o f th e i r re ligi o n as it ,

d e n o t e s e xtre m e bigo try c o mbi n e d with l a me n ta b l e ign o

,

ra n ce I n ma n y ca se s t h e p a tro n sai n t i s pre fe rr e d to the

.

A l mighty a n d a ma n wh o w o uld n o t h e sita t e t o i n v o k e the

n a me o f h i s M a k e r i n w it n e ss t o a fa l se h o o d w o uld h ave ,

d ifli c ulty i n di sgui si n g h i s p e rjury i f h e we re a pp e a l e d to in

th e n a me o f St Mich a e l o r St G e o rge
. I t i s a l s o a well
. .

kn o wn fa ct a n d mo st c o mm o n o f o ccurr e n c e th a t a favour
, ,

b e so ught i n th e n ame o f Go d wo uld o ft en b e re fu se d while , ,

if t h e re qu e st w e r e i mme di a t e ly a ft e r re p e a t e d i n t h e n ame
o f t h e Virgi n o r o f s o me fa v o urit e sa i n t it w o uld pro b ably
, ,

b e gran t e d Thi s ma y b e o b se rv e d in th e a pp e a l o f the

.

co mmo n stre e t b e gga r in Ti gre wh o se o rdin a ry cry is , ,

Sill a I z gyh e yr ! Sill a Me dh a i n y A lla m ( F o r t h e sake

o f Go d ! F o r th e sak e o f th e Sa vi o ur whil e i f h e be -
,
C H AP . XXV I . RE LI GI ON , da c ’
. 297

ve ry imp o rtun a t e h e will chan ge hi s u sual whi n i n g to n e

, ,

an d a d d w ith p e rsu as ive e mph a si s Silla Ma ria m ! Silla ,

A bo un a Te kl a H ai ma n o ut ( F o r t h e sa k e o f M a ry ! F o r

t h e sa k e o f Sai n t T e kl a H a iman o ut
The r e are n umb e rl e ss sai n ts ; an d th e ir live s n o d o ubt ,

writt e n o rigi na lly by so me cl e ve r ro man c e rs are c o pi e d by ,

th e s cribe s an d so ld t o th e d e vo ut
,
M o st o f th e m are .

ra t h e r l o n g st o ri e s an d all v e r ridicul o us o n e s I w ill

y ,
.
,

h o we ve r a bridge o n e o r t wo o f th e mo st wo n d e rful an d
, ,

r e l a te t h e m fo r th e amu se me n t o f t h e ma rv e l lo vi n g p a rt o f -

m y re a d e rs
Ga bro Me nfus K o ud do s (Sl a v e O f th e H o ly G h o st) was a
—
gre a t sa i n t fro m h is birth n ay mo re h e wa s b o rn a sai n t , .

N o s o o n e r did h e e n t e r t h e wo rld th a n h e st o o d up a n d ,

thre e da ys aft e r h i s birth h e b o we d h i s h e a d thrice sayin g , ,

i n a di s ti n ct v o ice
a n d t o t h e H o ly Gh o st
Gl o ry b e t o t h e Fa th e r a n d t o t h e So n
, , ,
” ’
H e n e ve r taste d o f h i s m o th e r s
.

milk n o r duri n g th e who l e p e ri o d o f h i s li fe p a rto o k o f fo o d

,

o r dri n k o f an y so rt O n ce whe n prayin g o n a mo un tai n

.
, ,

h e fe ll o ve r a pre cipic e two hu n dre d cubit s d e e p ,

Two .

a n ge l s i mme di a te ly j o in e d th e ir spre a d wi n g s un d e r h i m t o

s upp o rt h i m ; but h e re fu se d th e ir a s si s ta n c e sa yi n g tha t ,

h e tru st e d t o Go d al o n e fo r he lp A n o th e r ti me h e wa s .

a s c e n di n g a v e ry high mo u n t ai n an d b e i n g fa tigu e d t h e
, , ,

H o ly Tri n ity ca me an d a ssi ste d h im Ma n y o the r e qu ally .

a b s urd a n d a l mo s t bl asph e mo u s st o ri e s a re r e l a t e d o f h i m ;

a t l as t a fte r a v e ry l o n g li fe I fo rg e t o f h o w m an y ye a rs t h e
, , ,

Al mighty se n t A zra e l t h e a n g e l o f d e a th t o ta k e h im
, B ut , .

t h e sa i n t re fu se d t o di e sa yi n g th a t a s h e h a d n e ith e r e at e n
, , ,

n o r d ru n k h e c o uld n o t d i e
,
SO a ll th e sa i n t s ca me t o h im
.

in t urn fo r th e purp o se o f p e rsu a di n g h im t o l e a ve e a rth fo r

Pa ra d i se St J o hn th e B apti st first addre ss e d h i m sayi n g
. .
,

t h a t h e h ad go n e th e way o f a ll fl e sh n o t with st a n di n g h i s ,

ma n y p riva ti o n s a n d su ffe ri n g s Gabro Me n fus K o udd o s .

,

ho w e v e r a t o n ce me t h im with t h e a n swe r
, Y e s ; but y o u
co uld n o t fa st e v e n fo r fo rty d a y s but fe d o n l o cu st s a n d ,
”
wi ld h o n e y Thu s h e re pli e d to all th e sa i n ts an d at l ast
.
,

e v e n t o t h e Virgi n a n d o ur Sa v i o ur Still h o we v e r th e .
, ,
29 8 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H A P XXVI . .

d e cre e s o f th e O mn ip o te n t mu st b e o b e ye d a n d h i s life was ,

t a k e n fro m h im ; but th e n th e re wa s a di sput e a mo n g the

e l e me n t s a s t o wh a t was t o b e c o me o f h i s b o dy Th e earth .

re fu se d to re c e ive it as h e h a d n e v e r p a rta k e n o f h e r pro

,

duce A simila r re fu sal wa s ma d e by th e wa te r fo r h e had

.
,

n e v e r tak e n a dro p withi n h i s lip s Th e fire h a d a l so e qually

.

s tro n g o bj e cti o n s So th e sai n t wa s re s t o re d t o life and

.
,

t ake n up aliv e i n t o h e a ve n H i s to mb i s h o we ve r sho wn

.
, ,

at Zo ukwah la i n Sh o a but it i s said t o c o n ta i n o n ly o n e of

h i s rib s which a t t h e ti me o f h i s a sce n t t o h e a v e n h e t ook
, , ,

o ut a n d l e ft o n e a rth a s a me me n t o fo r h is fo ll o w e rs .

Th e re i s an o the r sain t I thin k Te kla H a i man o ut

,
-
,

wh o se wh o l e li fe an d a cti o n s are a n e xact c o py o f th o se of

o ur Sa vi o ur e v e n t o t h e fa ct o f h i s fa th e r b e i n g a ca rp e n ter
, ,

n ame d J o se ph a n d h i s mo th e r b e a ri n g th e n a m e o f M ary
,
.

A b o u n a Aragawy wa s o n e o f th e n i n e m i s s i o n a ri e s sent
t o A byssi n i a by St A th an asiu s . H is d o ctri n e a n d the .

mira cl e s which h e wro ught ga i n e d fo r h im ma n y fo llo wers ;

but fro m so me o f th e u n b e li e vi n g h e su ffe re d p e rse cution .

T h i s is th e a cc o u n t give n by so me hi sto ri a n s ; w hil e o thers

asse rt th a t ,o v e rc o me by hi s p o pula rity h e so ught re tire ,

me n t fro m thi s w o rld i n o rd e r t o d e vo t e t h e re main der

,

o f h i s d a y s t o re ligi o u s duty B e it a s it m ay h e c a me to
.
,

t h e r o ck o n which i s n o w th e c e l e bra t e d m o n a s t e ry of
D e vra D amo A ft e r wa lki n g se ve ral ti m e s r o u n d it with
.
,

o ut fi n di n g a n y me a n s o f a cc e ss t o i ts su mmit h e pra y ed to
—
,

t h e Al mighty w o se t h ,
n h i m an m
e o r ou
n s b o a c o n stri ctor ,

which o ffe re d t o ca rry h im up in i t s mo uth but h e said ,

“
I fe a r yo ur m o uth : turn ro u n d an d l e t m e t a k e your ,

ta il . So th e sn a k e did as h e wa s d e sire d ; a n d t h e saint ,

h o l din g fast by i ts ta il was drawn up t o th e s u mmit o f the

,

ro ck i n p e rfe ct sa fe ty Th e sn ak e ha vi n g p e rfo rme d its

.
,

duty o ffe re d t o l eave t h e sa i n t i f h e wi sh e d it ; but A ragawy

,

b e gge d tha t it wo uld re ma i n makin g h o we v e r t h e con , , ,

diti o n o f it s n o t a l a rmi n g o r d e stro yi n g an y o f h i s di sciples

wh o might c o me t o vi sit hi m Th e y the n t o o k p o sse ssion
.

o f th e ca ve s a n d h o le s which are i n t h e mo u n ta i n where ,

th e y are by man y supp o se d t o b e still livi n g So me how .

,
 C H A PTE R XXVII .

S UF E R S TI TI ON S RE LA TI N G T0 P E R S ON S P OS S E SS ED
OF TH E D E VI L .

TH E Abyssi n ia n s i n ge n e ral b e li e ve th at th e d e vil i s allowed

co n sid e rabl e p o we r o v e r man ki n d n o t o n ly in t e mpting
,

th e m t o sin but a l so i n an n o yi n g th e m gri e v o u sly by pos

,

se ssi n g th e m a ft e r t h e m an n e r in
, which p e rs o n s were
p o sse sse d i n th e an ci e n t time s o f th e J e ws Thi s is my .

n o ti o n o f t h e ma tt e r ; th o ugh th e y th e ms e lve s d o n o t alto

ge th e r give t h e d e vil h i s due ca lli n g h is ha n diw o rk that of

,

th e B o uda i n so me c a s e s a n d o f
”
,
“
Tigri t i ya i n o thers
a c c o rdi n g t o th e sy mpt o m s o f t h e p a ti e n t It will b e a .

ra the r l o n g ta sk t o e xpl a i n t h e wo rki n gs o f th e s e ma lignant

s pirit s th e ir n a ture s an d o rigi n a n d t h e m o d e o f th e ir ex
, ,

pul si o n ; but a s such re la ti o n s a re i n t e re s ti n g t o many I ,

sh a ll a t o n c e b e gi n with t h e B o ud a b e in g m o r e i n ti mately
,

a cqu a i n t e d with h i m th a n t h e o th e r fro m h a vi n g seen ,

a b o ve a hu n dre d c a s e s Of h i s wo rk a n d o n ly a fe w of
,

Tigri tiya .

I n A by ssin i a th e tra d e Of bl a ck smith i s h e r e dita ry and ,

c o n sid e r e d a s mo re o r l e ss di sgra ce ful fro m t h e fact that ,

bl a ck smith s a re with v e ry ra re e xc e pti o n s b e li e v e d to be

, ,

a ll s o rc e re rs a n d a re o ppro bri o u s ly ca ll e d B o ud a They ”

, .

a re supp o se d t o ha v e t h e p o we r o f turn i n g th e mse lv e s into

hyae n a s an d s o me time s i n t o o the r an ima l s I re member

, .

a s t o ry o f so me littl e girl s wh o ha vi n g b e e n o ut in the

,

fo re st t o gath e r s tick s ca me ru n n in g ba ck br e a thle ss with

,

fright ; a n d o n b e i n g a sk e d wh at wa s th e ca u se they ,

a n swe re d th a t a bl a ck smith o f t h e n e ighb o urh o o d h ad met

th e m a n d e n t e rin g i n to co n ve rsa tio n w ith h im they at

, , ,
C HAP XXV I I
. . S UPE R S TI TI ON S .
3 0 1

len gth b e gan to j o k e hi m abo ut whe th e r as h ad be e n ,

asse rt e d h e c o uld re a lly turn hi mse l f i n t o a hyae n a

, Th e .

ma n th e y d e clare d mad e n o re ply but ta ki n g so me a sh e s

, , , ,

which h e h a d with h im t i e d up in t h e c o rn e r o f h i s cl o th
, ,

spri n kl e d t h e m o v e r his sh o uld e rs an d t o th e i r h o rro r a n d ,

al a rm th e y b e gan almo st i mme di a t e ly t o p e rc e iv e th a t th e

me ta m o rph o si s was actu a lly taki n g pla ce an d tha t th e bla ck ,

’
smith s s ki n wa s a ssumi n g t h e ha i r an d c o l o ur o f th e hyae n a ,

w h i l e h i s l imb s a n d h e ad to o k th e shap e o f th a t an i ma l .

Wh e n t h e chan ge wa s c o mple t e h e grin n e d an d laughe d a t

t h e m a n d th e n re ti re d i n to th e n e ighb o urin g thick e ts Th e y
, .

h a d re mai n e d as it we re ro o t e d t o t h e pla ce fro m sh e e r

, ,

fri ght ; but th e mo me n t th e hid e o u s crea ture withdre w th e y

ma d e th e b e st o f the ir wa y h o me .

F e w p e o pl e will ve n ture t o mo l e st o r o ffe n d a bl ack

sm i t h fe ari n g th e e ffe cts o f h i s re se n tme n t
,
Th e gre a t e r .

re wo me n ; a n d th e r e a so n o f
”
p a rt o f t h e p o sse s se d a

t h e ir b e i n g a tta ck e d i s o fte n tha t th e y ha ve d e spi se d th e

o fl e re d l o v e o f some B o ud a o r fo r o th e r s i mil a r c a u se
p r ,
.

M e n ho we v e r a re b y n o me ans e xe mpt an d o f thi s I ha ve

.

se e n se v e ra l i n sta n c e s .

It is a cu s to m in A byssi n i a t o co n ce a l t h e re a l n ame by
w hich a p e r so n i s ba p t iz e d an d t o ca l l h im o n ly by a so rt ,

o f n ickn ame which hi s mo th e r giv e s h im o n l e a vi n g t h e

,

c hurch Th e ba pti sma l n am e s i n A byssi n i a a re th o se o f

.

sa i n t s ; such a s So n o f St Ge o rge Sla v e o f th e Virgi n .

, ,

D a ughte r o f M o se s & c Tho se give n by th e mo th e r are

, .

r lly xpr e ssiv e o f ma t e rn a l van ity re ga rdi n g th e a

g e n e a e p
e ara n c e o r an ticip a t e d m e rits o f h e r child Th e y a re
p .

such a s go ld silv e r j
, o y swe e t n e ss & c
, Th e r e a so n fo r
, , .

thi s c o n c e alme n t o f th e C hri stian n ame i s th a t th e B o ud a ,

ca n n o t act up o n a p e rs o n wh o s e r e a l n a me h e d o e s n o t

k n o w Sho uld h e ho we ve r ha v e o bta i n e d t h e true n a me

.
, ,

o f hi s victi m h e ta k e s a p a rticul a r ki n d o f s tra w a n d mut

:

, , ,

t e rin g so me thin g o ve r it b e n d s it i n to a circl e a n d pl a c e s

, ,

i t un d e r a sto n e Th e p e rso n thus d o o me d i s ta ke n ill a t

.

t h e v e ry mo me n t o f t h e b e n di n g o f th e stra w ; a n d sh o uld
3 0 2 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXVI I .

it by accide n t sn a p u n d e r th e o p e ra ti o n th e re s ult o f the ,

a tta ck wi ll b e th a t t h e p a ti e n t will d i e .

Thi s mal ady an d th e Tigritiya are n o d o ubt o fte n pur

.

p o s e ly c o u n t e r fe it e d by se rv an t mai ds t o e v a d e t h e ir-
wo rk ,

o r by o th e rs t o e xcit e pity a ttra ct a tt en ti o n a n d ge t them

, ,

se lv e s pu ll e d a b o ut by t h e me n Sti ll as m a n y re a l cases .
, ,

wh e re i n th e sympt o ms h a ve b e e n a s a b surd a s i n t h e false

ones , ha ve te rmi n a te d in d e a th o n e i s l e d t o in quire ,
’
wh e th e r th e p a ti e n t s mi n d c o uld h a v e b e e n a ffe cted ,

an d wh e th e r fro m h avi n g fre qu e n tly se e n s i mil a r farces

,

a ct e d t h e p a rti es ha ve n o t i n th e ir d e lu s i o n a ct e d like wise

,

I h a d b e tte r cite a fe w in stan ce s o f my o wn e xp e rience

t o b ea r o n b o th sid e s o f t h e qu e s ti o n a n d l e a v e my readers ,

t o fo rm th e ir o wn o pi n i o n .

Th e first ca s e which I e v e r saw a n d which I c o n s e quently ,

watch e d v e ry a tte n tiv e ly a n d n o te d d o wn w a s t h a t of a ,

se rv an t wo ma n a t R o h a b ai ta
-
Th e first d a y s h e c o mplai ned
.

o f ge n e ra l l an guo r a n d o f a s tupid h e a vy fe e li n g a bo ut the

,

he a d To wa rd s e ve n in g thi s se e me d t o i n cr e a s e w he n she
.
,

cri e d a littl e but was p e rfe ctly re a so n a bl e a n d e xcused

, ,

h e rse l f by sayin g tha t it wa s o n ly b e ca u se sh e fe lt lo w and

me la n ch o ly A n h o ur a fte r thi s h o we v e r s h e burst out
.
, ,

i n t o hyst e rica l la ught e r an d co mpl ai n e d o f vi o l e n t pain in

,

t h e sto ma ch a n d b o we l s It was a t thi s s ta ge that the

.

o th e r se rvan t s b e ga n t o su sp e ct tha t s h e w a s u n d e r the

in flu e n ce o f t h e B o uda I n a sh o rt ti me sh e be ca me quiet
.
,

a n d by d e gre e s sa n k i n t o a s ta t e o f l e th a rgy a ppro aching ,

t o i n s e n sibility Eithe r fro m e xc e ll e n t a cti n g a n d great

.

fo rtitud e o r fro m re a l wa n t o f fe e li n g th e v a ri o u s experi

, ,

me n t s which w e ma d e o n h e r s e e me d t o h a v e n o more
e ffe ct th a n th e y wo uld ha v e h a d o n a me sm e ric so mnam

b uli st . We pi n che d h e r re p e ate dly but pi n ch a s hard as

we c o uld sh e n e v e r mo ve d a mu scl e o f h e r fa c e n o r did
, ,

sh e o th e rwi s e e xpre ss t h e l e a st se n sa ti o n I h e ld a bottle .

o f stro n g sa l v o l a til e un d e r h e r n o se an d s t o pp ed her ,

Ma n y o f th e sy mpto ms se e m n e a rl y to rese mbl e t h o s e in o rdinary

’

case s o f e z l e
p pg r.
3 4
0 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXVI I .

At n ight sh e co ul d n o t sl ee p but b e came mo r e r e s tle ss and

, ,

sp o k e s e v e ra l ti me s Sh e o n ce r e marke d in h e r n atural
.
,

to n e o f vo ic e tha t sh e was n o t ill n o r a tta cke d by the

, ,

B o ud a but me re ly wi sh e d t o r e turn t o Ad o u a
, Sh e said .

thi s so n a tura lly tha t I wa s c o mpl e t e ly take n o ff my guard ,

a n d t o ld h e r th a t o f c o urse sh e might go b ut th a t sh e mu st ,

wa it till th e mo rro w Th e o the r p e o pl e s mil e d and

.
,
’
whi sp e re d me th a t it wa s o n ly a d e vic e o f t h e B o uda s
t o ge t h e r i n t o t h e fo r e st an d th e r e d e vo ur h e r , .

Si n gula r c o in cid e n c e s n o t u n fre qu e n tly o ccur i n such a

way a s t o e n co urage sup e rstiti o u s p e rso n s in th e ir cr e dulity
a n d s tran ge t o sa y th a t v e ry n ight fo r t h e firs t a n d last
, , ,

ti me tha t I e ve r he a rd h im durin g my sta y a t R o h ab aita ,

t h e hyaen a k e pt h o wli n g a n d l a ughi n g cl o s e t o t h e village

Thi s an i mal a s we ll a s t h e j a ckal i s ve ry c o mmo n in the
, ,

p o pul o u s di s trict s o f A by s s in i a wh e r e h e fi n d s pl e n,ty of

o ffa l but h e se ld o m tro ubl e s hi mse l f t o vis it th e s e d e so late
,

an d a l mo st u n i n h a bite d r e gi o n s : c o n se qu en tly h i s a ppear ,

a n c e th a t e v e n in g wa s h ail e d by a ll t h e p e o pl e with a
fe e lin g o f h o rro r a s th e y d o ubtl e ss c o n n e c t e d it with the
,
’
wo man s sickn e ss I was re ga rd e d e ve n by my o wn ser
.
,

van ts a s a man d e vo id o f all sen sibility b e ca u se I v e n tured

, ,

t o smil e a t th e id e a an d t o tre a t th e wh o l e ma tt e r as an
,

i mp o sture So c o mpl e te ly i n d e e d we re th e y o ve rc o me that

.
,

the y fo rgo t a ll th e ir re sp e ct fo r me an d o n e o r two o f them

did n o t scruple t o e xpr e ss th e ir o pi n io n t o m y fa ce .

A t n ight I o rd e re d t h e p e o pl e to cl o se t h e d o o r o f the
b ut an d li e a cro ss it so me i n sid e a n d s o me o ut
, ,
These .

pre cauti o n s h o w e v e r did n o t sati sfy the m ; a n d the y i n sisted

, ,

o n h a vi n g t h e yo u n g wo man b o u n d ha n d a n d fo o t as the ,

o n ly me a n s o f pre v e n ti n g h e r e sc ap e Sh e l a y pr e tty still . .

me re ly mo an i n g a n d o cca si o n ally sta rti n g up w h e n t h e hymns

,

ca ll e d I wa s lyi n g o n a c o uch sh e an d t h e o th e r people

.
,

o n th e fl o o r D e t e rmi n e d t o se e t h e i ssu e o f t h e affair

. ,

I wa tch e d h e r n a rro wly an d wh e n th e gu a rd d ro pp e d off to

,

sl e e p o n e by o n e I pr e te n d e d t o d o so lik e w i s e
, , Sh e also .

wa s p e rfe ctly still fo r n e a r an h o ur a n d I fa n cie d that she ,

t o o h a d fa ll e n a sl e e p wh e n sudd e n ly t h e hyaen a calling

, ,
C HAP . XXV I I . S UF E R S TI TI ON S .
3 ;
0

clo se b y sh e to my asto n i sh me n t ro se with o ut h e r bo n d s

, , ,

which I h a d see n as I i ma gin e d se cure ly fa st e n e d

, ,
Sh e .

the n cre pt o n a ll fo urs to ward s th e d o o r whi ch sh e suc

-
,

c e e d e d i n p artly o p e ni n g I wa s ju st go i n g t o sprin g o n
.

h e r w h e n o n e o f th e hea vi ly sle e pi n g gu a rd s ma de a n o i s e
-
,

which so un d e d so me thin g lik e a gru n t o r a s n o re a n d it ,

a ppe a r e d t o me th a t sh e s tifle d a l a ugh Thi s le d me t o .

be li e ve mo re a n d mo re t ha t sh e was shamm in g but I said ,

n o th in g an d sh e re turn e d o f h e r o wn a cc o rd t o h e r pl a c e
, .

A l t h o ugh sh e did n o t sl e e p duri n g t h e wh o l e n ight ye t sh e ,

re ma in e d still as l o n g as t h e p e o pl e we r e qui e t o n ly ,

mo a n in g a littl e wh e n e ve r an y o n e by yawn i n g o r o th e r ,

wi se sh o we d sign s o f wa kin g
,
N e xt day sh e a pp e a re d a
.

li ttl e b e tt e r an d ta lke d mo re ra ti o n ally but still v e ry wildly

, , ,

a n d wo uld n e i t h e r e a t n o r d ri n k O n c e we a ll o we d h e r t o
.

l e a v e th e hut fo r a mo me n t o n pre te n c e o f n e c e ssity a n d

, ,

s h e w e n t o ut qui e tly e n o ugh ; but h e r re turn b e i n g d e l a y e d

l o n ge r th an we co n sid e r e d right p a rti e s we re se n t o ut i n

,

u s t o f h e r a n d afte r a l o n g s e a rch sh e was di s c o v e re d

q e ,

m o r e tha n a mil e fro m th e hut a n d ma ki n g fo r th e thick e st

,

o f t h e j u n gl e .

Th e s e c o n d n ight wa s p a sse d much a s th e fo rm e r o n e ;

b ut t h e fo ll o wi n g da y we pre va il e d o n h e r t o t a k e a littl e
b r ea d . O n swa ll o wi n g a pi e c e ab o ut th e siz e o f a n ut
S h e b e c a me ve ry s ick ; an d a dra ught o f wa t e r pro duc e d

a s i mila r re sul t A b e tt e r n ight se e me d t o d o h e r go o d

.
,

fo r o n t h e fo llo wi n g day sh e ma n a ge d t o e at a littl e an d by ,

Sl o w d e gr e e s re c o v e re d h e r h e a lth .

I f this we re a trick as d o ubtl e ss a ll my r e a d e rs will

,

d e cl a re it t o ha ve b e e n I wo uld o n ly a sk wha t sh e ga i n e d
,

by it P fo r b e yo n d maki n g a littl e bre a d a n d o cca si o n a lly a ,

—
d i s h o r two o f co o k e ry, sh e h a d n o wo rk t o do a t a n y ra t e
‘

’
n o t h i n g th a t c o uld i n duc e h e r t o p re fe r th re e da y s c o n

fin e me n t wi t h ple n ty o f pi n ch e s c o rd s an d d re n chi n g with

, , ,
’
c o ld wa t e r with o ut a mo me n t s sl e e p a n d wo rs e th a n
, , ,

all t o an y A byssi n i a n to ta l a b s ti n e n c e fro m fo o d a n d

,

drin k !
Th i s b e i n g th e first c as e I witn e sse d I n o t e d it do wn ,

x
3 0 6 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXVI I .

mi n ut e ly ; but a s th e ch a rms fa il e d t o d o th e ir w o rk, which

i s ma d e t o ma k e t h e spi rit sp e ak , sca rc e h a l f o f t h e pri n cipal
fe a ture s o f th e mal ady w e re di spl a ye d Th e p e o pl e all .

r d tha t it wa s pro vid e n tia l th e stra w did n o t break

ag e e

wh e n th e bl ack smith wa s wo rki n g th e ch a rm ; fo r h avi ng ,

pro cure d n o a n tid o t e sh e mu st assure dly h a ve di e d had

,

it d o n e so .

Si n c e thi s o ccurre n ce I h a v e witn e sse d man y h o a x e s e asy

t o di sc o v e r but al so man y which I c o uld n e ve r s e e t hro ugh
, ,

a lth o ugh I tri e d e v e ry me th o d th a t my s m a ll s t o ck of

i n ge n uity co uld i n v e n t .

I re me mb e r o n c e a p o o r weakly girl o n wh o m I h a d tried

s e v e ra l fal se ch a rms but with o ut h e r mo vin g Sh e was
, .

lyi n g app are n tly se n se l e ss in th e in n e r c o urt o f a h o u se at

, ,

Ad o u a an d n u mb e rs o f p e rso n s we re p ass i n g t o a n d fio
,

t o s e e h e r wh e n s udd e n ly sta rti n g up sh e s cre a me d and

, , ,

struggl e d with so much stre n gt h tha t o n se izi n g h er by , ,

th e l e gs a n d sh o uld e rs I a n d thre e o th e r p o we rful men

,

c o ul d sca rc e ly ke e p h e r d o wn A man n e a r me sa id I .
,
“

a m sure s o me o n e h a s with h im a str o n g ch a rm : i f so let ,

h im pro duc e it
”
Al l d e n i e d th e fa ct ; but ju s t the n a
.

s tra n ge r e n t e r e d fr o m t h e o ute r c o urt wh e n s h e cri e d ou t , ,

Le t m e al o n e a n d I will sp ca
,
Thi s m an wa s an
A mhara s o ldi e r p e rfe ctly u n kn o wn t o a ll o f us but who
, , ,

h e a ri n g o n e o f o ur p e o pl e i n quire fo r cha rm s i n a house

w h e r e h e wa s dri n ki n g h a d v o lu n t e e re d t o try one
,

which h e wo re an d which h e d e cl a re d t o b e v e ry p o tent

,

O n pl a ci n g th e amul e t n e a r h e r sh e ye ll e d a n d s cre amed ,

h o rribly Th e o wn e r (a ddre ssin g h e r a s a w o ma n ) said

.
,

Will yo u d e cl are yo urse lf if I take it a wa y P She

”

h o wl e d s till mo re a t thi s in sult a s sh e ca ll e d i t a n d said , , ,

I am n o wo man Th e qu e stio n wa s th e n re p e a te d se veral

.

ti me s i n th e masculi n e but sh e i n va ri a bly a tte m pted to

,

e va d e a dire ct an swe r till as if wo rn o ut

, ,sh e e xcl a imed , ,
“
I will t e ll all ; o n ly tak e it far fro m me It was accord
i n gly re mo v e d t o so me di st an c e fro m h e r a n d sh e imme ,

d ia t e ly san k d o wn a s i f e xh au s t e d .

N o w n o o n e wh o h as n o t witn e sse d so me s p e ci mens of

,
3 8
0 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXVI I .

l e av i n g h e r A b asin wa s fe tche d in which w a s put a

.
,

quan tity o f a n y filth tha t c o uld b e fo u n d ( o f fo w l s dogs , ,

a n d m ixe d up with a littl e wa t e r a n d so me a sh es .

I t o o k th e b a si n myse l f a n d hid it wh e re I w as p o sitive

,

sh e c o uld n o t s e e m e pl a c e it a n d c o v e re d it up w ith so me
,

l o o se sto n e s which we re h e a p e d i n th e c o rn e r Th e Bo uda .

wa s th e n t o ld th a t h i s supp e r wa s pre p a re d a n d t h e wo man ,

ro se a n d crawl e d d o wn t h e co urt o n all fo ur s sm e lli n g like

.
,

a d o g o n e ith e r sid e till p a ssi n g i n t o th e y a rd w h e re the

, ,

ba sin wa s sh e we n t stra ight up t o it a n d grubbi n g it out

, , ,

fro m t h e pla c e wh e re it wa s hidd e n d e v o ur e d i t s a b o min ,

a bl e c o n t e n t s with th e utmo st gre e din e ss T h e B o uda was .

th e n supp o se d t o l e av e h e r a n d sh e fe ll t o t h e gro u n d as if
, ,

fa i n ti n g . F ro m thi s sta t e sh e r e c o v e re d h e r h e a lth i n a few

d ay s.

I h ad fo rgo tt e n t o me n ti o n th at o n e o f t h e prin cipal

sympt o ms i s a gr e a t l o n gi n g fo r ch a rc o al o f w hich the ,

p a ti e n t will e a t a n y quan tity sh e ca n o bta i n Th e first proof .

’
o f t h e d e vil s l e avi n g h e r i s h e r al l o wi n g h e r thu mbs to

b e tak e n h o ld o f .

O n e o f my s e rva n t s wh o by th e gre a t a n x i e ty h e showed

, ,

in wa tchin g a n d t e n di n g th e p a ti e n t s wa s e vid e n tly con ,

v i n c e d o f t h e truth o f t h e ir s u ffe ri n s h d hi m l f b en
g a s e e ,

a tt a ck e d man y y e a rs b e fo re a n d assure d m e t h a t a fter his

,

re c o v e ry h e h a d n o t th e slighte st re co ll e ct i o n o f an ything
tha t h a d tak e n pl a c e whil e th e fit wa s o n h im but that ,

h i s fri e n d s h a d t o ld h im a ll a b o ut it H o w w as it p o ssible .

th a t thi s ma n supp o si n g h is o wn illn e ss t o h a ve been

,

fe ign e d c o uld b e ch e a t e d by th e same me a n s P

,

Wh a t mo st a st o n i sh e d me was th e wa y th a t th e talisman
se e me d t o a c t It i s g e n e ra lly so me so rt o f ro o t with
.
,
’
o cc a si o n a lly a bit o f hyae n a s ski n s e wn up i n a small ,
.

mo ro cc o c a se I ha v e mo re than o n c e c o n c e a l e d one
.

’
u n d e r my cl o th e s a n d g o in g up be hi n d th e patient s
, ,

h e a d t o uch e d h e r with it
, N o so o n e r w a s thi s done
.

th an sh e sta rt e d up fran tically a lth o ugh d o z e n s o f per ,

s o n s w e r e pulli n g h e r a b o ut i n e v e ry dire cti o n a t the sam e

mo me n t .
C HAP . xx v rr . S UPE R S TI TI ON S .
3 9
0

Ju st as t h o we ve r have I d e t e cte d i mp o sture s I

o f en , ,
.

h ad o n c e a gre a t stra ppin g we n ch fo r a co o k Sh e wa s .

as s tro n g a s a came l ra th e r go o d l o o ki n g an d an un c o m
,
-
,

mo nl y willin g se rva n t ; so th a t I was so rry t o h e ar o n e fin e

e ve n in g tha t sh e h a d b ee n a tt ack e d by t h e Evil O n e I c o uld .

n o t h e lp l a ughi n g a t th e id e a o f wh a t a j o b we sh o uld h a v e

t o mas t e r h e r e sp e ci a lly as I h a d se e n littl e we ak e ma ci a t e d

,

cre a ture s ca u se co n sid e ra bl e tro ubl e t o fo ur o r fiv e stro n g

me n . B ut fro m a hin t o f my bla ck s e rvan t Sai d I fo un d
, ,

t h a t h e ha d giv e n h e r a t as t e o f th e whip tha t a fte rn o o n .

Th e fa ct was th at th e n a ughty girl h a d c o n tra ry t o t h e

, ,

pre j udic e s o f h e r co un try all o we d h e rse l f t o b e c o me h i s

,

swe e th e a rt h e b e in g a Mu ssul man an d sh e a C hri stia n ;

,
’
an d t h e whipp in g was t h e i ssu e o f a l o ve r s qu arre l .

J udgin g by all th is tha t h e r mal a dy was th e wo rk o f a v e ry

mi s chi e vo us littl e d e vil ca ll e d C upid a n d n o t o f th e B o uda
—in fa ct that sh e wa s me re ly shammin g fo r th e purp o se o f
, ,

, ,
’
e xci t in g h e r cru e l l o v e r s symp a thy — I d e t e rmin e d t o a c t
a c co rd i n gly P o o r girl ! sh e sadly o v e rrat e d th e t e n de rn sss
.

o f h e r a mo ro so H e as u su al h a l f d run k b e gan t o l a ugh

.
, , ,

a t h e r a n d ca lli n g h e r ca me l bu ffa l o
, ,
a n d o th e r e n d e ari n g
, ,

n am e s ,re qu e st e d h e r i n n o v e ry p o lite man n e r t o ge t up

an d pr e p ar e h im so me supp e r I fo r my p a rt b e li e vi n g
.
, ,

t h a t t h e wo man wa s n o t lik e ly a t o n c e t o a d mit th a t sh e

was pl a yin g us a h o a x put a s e ri o u s fa ce o n th e m a tt e r an d
, ,

r o p o s e d t o t ry a v e ry e fl i c a c i o us r e m e dy which a s I sa id
p , , ,

t h e so n o f Oubi h a d give n me o n my l a st vi sit t o t h e c amp .

A cco r di n gly go i n g t o my ro o m I pull e d t wo o r thre e bit s o f

, ,

d ry ba m b o o ro o t s fro m th e hut an d wra pp e d th e m ca re ful ly

-
,

i n a pi e c e o f p a p e r t o ge th e r with an o ld l e a f o r two so m e
, ,

p ip e as h e s a n d a bit o f h a ir which I cut fro m th e t a il o f

-
,

my fa ithful do g Mayc h a l B o ggo Pro c e e di n g th e n t o th e

.

la c e w h e r e t h e s u ffe r e r la y I o rd e re d a l a rg e m o uth e d j ar
p
-
,
’
t o b e fill e d with dry mul e s du n g a n d li ght e d -
Wh e n thi s .

h a d b e e n d o n e a n d th e smo k e b e ga n t o ri se i n cl o ud s I
, ,

u t i n t o it a sma ll qu a n tity o f my ch a rm with e v e ry a pp e a r

p ,

a n ce o f ca n t1o n a n d c a r e ; which d o n e we se iz e d t h e ,

un fo rtu n a te victi m a n d with so me di fficulty fo rc e d h e r h e a d

,
3 1 0 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXVI I .

’
cl o se t o th e j a r s mo uth an d th e n ro ll e d a qu a rry round
,

it an d th e ja r so a s a t o n c e t o k e e p h e r fa s t a n d prevent
, ,

t h e e sc a p e o f t h e sma ll e st qua n tity o f sm o k e A s may .

b e i magi n e d i n a mo me n t sh e b e ga n t o c o ugh vi o l ently

, ,

a n d a t l ast b e i n g a l mo st su ffo ca t e d cri e d o ut

,
L e t me off
, , ,
’
fo r pity s sa k e ; I a m n o t ill b ut o n ly s h a mm i n g ,
I
so l e mn ly a sse rt e d thi s t o b e o n ly a d e v ic e o f t h e Evil One

t o ge t a wa y fro m th e cha rm a n d h e ld o n till h e r cri es for

, ,

pity fo r t h e sa ke o f th e Virgi n o f Oubi & c be co ming

, , , .
,

mo re co n fu se d an d h e r c o ugh mo re vi o l e n t I fe a re d l e st she ,

might suffe r t o o much if k e pt l o n ge r O n b e i n g lib e rated

.

sh e pr e se n t e d a d e pl o rabl e a pp e a ran c e H e r c o ugh con

tin n e d fo r so me time ; h e r e ye s we re bl o o d sho t a n d s treaming
’
with t e a rs ; a n d th e s h a me sh e fe lt a t t h e a é n o uement was

n o t a t a ll l e ss e n e d by t h e j e e rs o f h e r fe ll o w se rv an ts and -
,

by my t e lli n g h e r tha t as I h ad di sco ve re d s o go od a

me dicin e I sh o uld n o t fa il t o use it o n all o cca s i o n s and ,

mo re o ve r by my d e live ri n g t o h e r e sp e cia l ch a rge th e jar of

smo ki n g du n g which h a d w r o ught so wo n d e rful a c ure .

Th a t magic ve sse l wa s pre se rve d i n a co n spicu o u s situation

i n t h e hut wh e re th e w o me n wo rk e d till I l e ft t h e place ;
a n d I mu st sa y th a t th e a t ta ck s o f B o ud a we r e l e s s fre quent

a ft e r thi s o ccurr e n c e th an b e fo re ; th o ugh s till I h a d o cea

sio n a l ca se s wh e re th e su n k e n e ye an d v a ca n t s ta r e ch eated

me i n to t e n d e rn e ss o f he art an d I re fra i n e d fro m th e use

,

o f my si n gul a r but mo st e ffic a ci o u s re me dy .

Ma n y ca se s h av e b e en re la t e d to me wh e re in t h e fii ends ,

o f th e p o ss e s s e d h a vi n g pro cure d ch a rms o f s uffici e n t p ower

,

t o fo rc e t h e spirit t o d e cl a re h i s n a me an d re s id e n c e but not ,

e qu a l t o turn i n g h im o ut we n t a t o n c e t o th e pl a c e i n dica ted

, ,

a n d se izi n g o n th e bl a ck smith bro ught h im fo rcibly t o their

, ,

h o me wh e re ha vi n g fe d h im we ll h e was c o mma n d ed to
, , ,

quit h is victi m an d a t th e same time h is li fe w a s t hre atened

, ,

l an c e s b e in g p o i n t e d a t h i s bre a st .

I n t h e n e ighb o urh o o d o f Ad o u a th e re i s a s t o ry current of

a w o ma n wh o h a d o n e fo o t n a t u ra l a n d in t h e pl a c e o f the
,

o th e r th e h o o f o f a d o n k e y I ha v e fre qu e n tly m a de in quiri es

.

r e sp e cti n g thi s st o ry ; an d i n a n sw er se v e ral p e rso n s have ,

 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXVI I .

h ad purp o se ly thro wn h e r H i s p o we r h e sa id wa s Su fficient

.
, ,

t o ch a n ge t h e e xt e rn al a pp e a ra n c e but n o t t o a lte r t h e mind ,

o f h i s subj e ct H e n c e it wa s tha t th e o ld w o m a n o r rather

.
,

d o n k e y p o sse sse d huma n fe e li n gs which sh e h a d d i splayed

, ,

i n h e r e n d e a vo u rs t o e n t e r h e r fo rme r ha bita t i o n a n d i n her ,

re co gn iti o n o f h e r childre n Th e B o uda m o re o v e r agre ed

.

t o r e st o re t o h e r h e r hu ma n a pp e a ran c e a n d b e ga n his ,

e xo rci sm A s h e pro ce e d e d sh e by d e gre e s as s um e d her

.
,

n a tura l fo rm an d t h e ch an ge a pp e a re d t o
, b e c o mplete ,

wh e n o n e o f th e so n s blin d e d by h i s ra g e fo rgo t the

, ,

pro mi se s o f p ard o n which th e B o ud a h ad e xa ct e d from

th e m a ll a n d dro ve his sp e a r thro ugh h i s h e a rt Alas
, .
,

fo r i mp a ti e n c e ! Th e i n ca n ta ti o n n o t b e i n g e n tire ly co m
p l e t e d,o n e fo o t ye t r e m a i n e d a si n i n e a n d c o n ti n u e d so ,

u n til h e r d e a th a ctu a lly o ccurre d which wa s n o t ti ll many ,

ye a rs a fte rwa rd s .

D eja tc h Oubi wh o e n j o ys th e r e puta ti o n o f b e i n g far

,

sup e ri o r t o mo st o f h i s c o u n try me n in h is a bu n d an c e of

in te ll e ct a n d h i s sup e ri o rity t o sup e rstitio n ap pe a rs t o b e li eve ,

fi rmly in th e p o we r o f th e B o uda O n o n e o cc as i o n he .

gav e a mo st striki n g pro o f o f h i s fa ith ; fo r a so ldi e r dying ,

sh o rtly aft e r t h e n a me an d r e s id e n c e o f h i s t o rm e n t e r had

b e e n e x to rt e d fro m h im th e u n fo rtun a t e bl a ck sm ith thus

, ,

d e scrib e d wa s s e iz e d by o rd e r o f th e Pri n c e a n d after

, , ,

s o m e i n v e stiga ti o n o f th e ma tt e r c o n d e mn e d w ith part , ,

o f h i s fa mily t o b e put t o d e a th
,
I fo rge t h o w th e y were .

kill e d but hav e a n i mpre ssi o n th a t th e y we re thro w n i n to a

,

pit in which a la rge fire h a d b e e n lighte d a n d burn e d to

, ,

d e a th
.

A ra th e r amu sin g way o f turn i n g thi s art in t o a more

pro fita bl e an d l e ss o ffe n siv e lin e o f bu si n e ss tha n kil ling
p e o pl e o r makin g th e m sick o r e v e n turn i n g th e m into
“
,

b e a st s o f burd e n i s t o ld o f t wo bro th e rs wh o liv e d in some

,

p art o f Go j am O n e o f th e m havi n g submitt e d t o b e turned

.
,

i n to a h o rs e a ss o r co w was so ld by h i s br o t h e r at the
, , ,

ma rk e t an d c o n duct e d by h i s purcha se r o ut o f th e town

,
.

A s s o o n h o w e v e r a s n ight cl o se d th e e ye s o f h i s n e w master
, , ,

th e B o ud a r e su me d h i s hu ma n ity a n d wa lk e d q ui e tly ho me ,
.
C HA P . xxv rr . S UPE RS TI TI ON S .
3 3
1

It so o f e n o c curre
t d tha t h e r o f th e bro th e rs so ld
on e or o t

so me a n imal i n th e ma rk e t tha t p e o pl e b e ga n t o i n quire

,

whe n c e t h e ir ca ttl e we re o bta in e d a s th e y we re n e ve r kn o wn ,

to ke e p an y st oc k n o r e v e n t o h a v e an y b e a st i n th e ir yard
,

til l th e da y o f sa l e a rriv e d Sti ll mo re e xtra o rdin ary i n th e

.

e y e s o f th e s u spici o u s was t h e fa ct th a t e v e ry an i mal th e y

so ld ma d e i ts e sca p e t h e same n ight a n d was n e ve r mo re ,

hea rd o f A t l as t a so ldi e r o r ch i e f ra th e r mo re i n ge n i o u s
.
, ,

tha n t h e re st an d pro ba bly with h i s wit s sha rp e n e d by th e

,

fact o f h is hav in g a lre a dy b e e n ta k e n i n twic e d e t e rmin e d ,

t o risk h i s mo n e y a third ti me i n h o p e s o f di sc o v e ri n g t h e
,

fra ud . A cco rdin gly o n e ma rk e t day h e b o ught a ve ry fin e

,
-

lo o kin g ho rse fro m o n e o f th e bro th e rs an d t o o k it away ,

with h i m I n ste a d h o we ve r; o f a ll o wi n g h im t o wa it till

.
,

n ight sh o uld fa v o ur hi s e sca p e n o so o n e r w a s h e o uts id e ,

th e t o wn t ha n h e dro v e h i s lan c e thro ugh t h e h e a rt o f h i s

n e w purch ase an d re tu rn e d t o t h e t o wn t o w a tch t h e e ffe ct s
,

w hich t h e n e ws might pro duc e o n th e se ll e r M e e ti n g h im .

as i t we re a ccid en ta lly h e t o ld h i m (cur si n g h i s o wn h e a t o f

,

te mpe r) h o w h e h a d in a p assi o n kill e d th e b e autiful a n i mal

'

h e h ad j u s t b o ught o f h im Th e B o ud a sta rte d but ma n a ge d

.
,

t o c o n ce a l hi s e mo ti o n till h e a rriv e d at h o me wh e n cl o si n g , ,

t h e d o o r h e ga ve v e n t t o h i s l a m e n ta ti o n s wa ilin g a n d
, ,

rubb ing t h e ski n o ff h i s fo r e h e a d a s i s cu st o ma ry a t t h e ,

d e a th o f a n e a r re l a ti o n On b e i n g qu e s ti o n e d by th e n e igh
.

b o urs as t o th e cau se o f h i s gri e f h e r e pli e d th a t n e ws h ad ,

re a c h ed h i m o f t h e d e a th o f h i s br o th e r wh o h e sa id ,

h a d b e e n ro bb e d an d murd e re d i n th e Ga ll a c o u n try wh ith e r ,

h e h ad go n e so me fe w d a ys b e fo re i n qu e s t o f h o r se s .

Wh e th e r h i s o r my ve rsio n o f th e sto ry b e tru e I pre te n d ,

n o t t o say ; but I wa s a ssure d tha t h e n e ve r a ga i n o ffe r e d

ani ma l s fo r sa l e i n t h e ma rk e t .

So much fo r th e B o ud a Th e Tigri tiya is h is n e ar

' “
.

re la ti o n but ge n e ra lly a far mo re di sagr e e a bl e a n d d an ge ro u s

,

d e vi l th an h e H i s d e p e n d e n ts a re supp o se d t o b e fo u n d in
.

r a t n umb e rs in Go j a m which pro vi n c e i n d e e d i s c e l e

g e ,

b ra t e d fo r so rc e re rs o f all ki n d s I am n o t sure wh e th e r .

t h e b l a cksmith s e x e rci se thi s a rt a s w e ll a s t h e fo rm e r o n e ,

 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXVI I .

but b e li e ve n o t Stran ge t o say I fin d n o thi n g in my n otes

.
,

ab o ut i t s o r1g1n an d my u su a lly fa ith ful me m o ry h as failed

me o n thi s p o i n t .

A s th e in flu e n c e o f Tigri t iya li k e tha t o f B o ud a i s more

, ,

fre qu e n tly fe lt by wo me n th an by me n it h a s h a p pe n e d that ,

t h e o n e o r tw o ca se s which I h a v e w itn e s s e d h a v e been

a mo n g t h e fa ir s e x I shal l th e re fo re sp e ak o f t h e p ati ent
.

i n t h e fe mi n i n e ge n d e r t h o ugh o n e i s re quire d t o b e more

,

ca uti o u s i n thu s a ddre ssi n g h e r th an e v e n in c a se s o f B o uda

fo r with t h e l a tt e r t h e co n se qu e n c e s are th a t t h e m a l e spiri t
wax e s ra th e r sulky a n d re fuse s t o an sw e r y o ur qu e sti o ns
, ,

whil e in a cas e o f Tigrit iya it o ft en ha pp e n s th a t thi s m i stake

o f t h e s e x ma y c a u se a p a ti en t a pp a re n tly r e c o v e ri n g t o go

i n to a fre n zy an d re l ap se i n to h e r wo rst sta t e Thi s malady

, .

i s o f l e ss fre qu e n t o ccurre n c e th an th e o th e r a n d i s n o t o nly ,

mo re d a n ge ro u s but a l so mo re difli c ult o f e xpl a n a t i o n The

, .

fir st sympt o ms u su ally are th e gra du al w a s tin g a way of

t h e a tta ck e d p e rs o n with o ut a n y ca u se b e i n g a pp a re n t e ither
,

t o h e rse l f o r h e r re l a tiv e s A t l ast h o w e v e r a ft e r die ting

.
, ,

a n d t h e o rdi n a ry me dici n e s h a v e b e en u n su cc e ss fully tried ,

it b e c o me s a ma tt e r o f su spici o n t o h e r fri e n d s w h o de ,

t e rmi n e o n a sce rta i n in g wh e th e r o r n o sh e b e afll i ct e d with

thi s d e vil Th e first thi n g t o b e o b se rv e d i s t o fe e d her
.

d a i n tily a n d dre ss h e r n e a tly A s h e r c o mpl a in t a n d this

.

tre a tme n t a dva n c e sh e b e c o me s p e e vi sh an d fre tful an d is

, ,

a l way s l o n gi n g fo r s o me thi n g o r o th e r Wh a t e v e r sh e de .

ma n d s mu st b e pro cure d e l se sh e will b e co m e s ulky and

, , ,

c o ve ri n g up h e r h e a d re ma i n so me ti me s fo r d a y s without
,

e a ti n g o r sp e a ki n g O rn ame n ts o f a ll kin d s r e quir e t o be

.

b o rro we d fo r h e r o ft e n a t much tro ubl e t o h e r u n fo rtunate

,

re l ati o n s : fo r sh e i s ra re ly sa ti sfi e d u n l e ss sh e ge ts a n assort
’
m e n t o f tho s e wo rn by b o th se x e s e ve n t o th e li o n s skin of ,

a wa rri o r ; an d th e se are frequ e n tly a l mo st i m p o s s ibl e to

pro cure With so me p e rso n s it i s n e c e ssa ry t o h a v e re co urse

.

t o mu sic b e fo re t h e re a l c au se o f th e ir c o m pl ai n t can be
di sc o ve re d D rums an d o th e r mu sica l in stru m e n t s are col
.

l e c t e d o utsid e th e ch a mb e r d o o r a n d th e m u sici a n s s udd enly

,

strik e up a ll t o ge th e r wh e n th e pa ti e n t i s n o t e xp e c t in it
, g
3 1 6 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXVII .

o f her fri e n d s . r did h e appro a ch th a n sh e sprang

No so o n e

t o ward s h im an d o rd e re d h i m t o da n ce w ith h e r ; at the

sa me ti me filli n g h e r mo uth w ith milk fro m a c an n e ar her ,

sh e spirt e d it i n t o h i s fa c e N a tura lly st a rtl e d by thi s nu

.

e xp e ct e d r e c e pti o n a n d b e in g a man o f d e cid e dly n e rvou

, s

t e mp e ra me n t my p o o r fri e n d n o t a ppro vi n g o f thi s pro xi

, ,

mity o f t h e d e vil e j acul a t e d th e fa ta l wo rd s

, S ca rcely .
,

h o we ve r h a d th e y p asse d h is lip s wh e n th e w o ma n utte ring

, , ,

a t e rrific scre a m thr e w h e rs e l f o n t h e gr o un d a n d t o re of

,
f
a ll h e r cl o th e s an d o rn ame n t s whil e h e r hu s b a n d wh o al so , ,

it app e a rs wa s mo re o r l e ss a ffe cte d by t h e Tigri t i ya drew

, ,

h i s sh o te l a n d ma d e a fe ro ci o u s a tta ck o n th e un witti ng
,

o ffe n d e r Th e bysta n d e rs pr e v e n t e d h i m fro m d o i n g mis

.

’
chi e f but e ve n the y c o n sid e re d tha t my fri e n d s fa ult d e se rved
,

so me pu n i shme n t a n d so h e ld h i m fas t till th e y sh o uld

,

d e cid e o n h i s fa te Th e w o man was ra i se d fro m t h e gro und

.
,

wh e r e sh e lay kicki n g a n d fo a mi n g a t th e m o uth an d was ,

ca rri e d t o h e r h o u se wh ith e r al so t h e p ri s o n e r w as led

, .

A c o n sulta ti o n was th e n h e ld a s t o wh a t pu n i s hm e n t he
me rite d which fro m th e to n e o f t h e maj o rity a pp eared
, , ,

lik e ly to b e ve ry se v e re ; a n d man y o f th e p a r ty w e re of
O pi n i o n that e v e n a ft e r h e h a d suffe re d fo r thi s o ffe n ce he
, ,

sh o uld still b e k e pt pri so n e r a n d put t o d e a th i f i n a c e rta in

,

time th e p a ti e n t did n o t re c o ve r Luckily h o we v e r while .

, ,

t h e c o n sulta ti o n wa s ye t g o i n g o n th e chi e f o f t h e v illage , ,

wh o h a d h e a rd o f t h e di s turb a n c e ca me i n t o a s c e rta in the ,

c au se o f it which b e i n g fully e xpla i n e d an d t h e priso ner

, , ,

t e llin g h im th a t h e was a d e ft e re r o r scrib e i n t h e s e rvice of

t h e bi sh o p (which l a tte r cl a u se was h o w e v e r u n tru e ) the , , ,

chi e f c o mman d e d tha t h e sh o uld i mme di a t e ly b e set at

lib e rty re ma rkin g tha t it wa s n o t o n ly pro b a bl e but even
,

right th a t a C hri sti a n sh o uld a pp e a l t o t h e A l mighty when

i n fe a r o f th e a ssa ult s o f th e Evil O n e .

Thu s much fo r th e sympt o ms an d tre a trn e n t o f thi s ra ther

e xtra o rdi n a ry c o mpl a in t Th e mo d e o f ej e ctin g th e Old
.

Ge n tl e man fro m h is t e mp o ra ry p o sse ssi o n i s s o me thi ng

s i mil a r t o wh a t w e h a v e a lre a dy d e sc rib e d Aft e r t h e pa tient .

h as b e e n i n duc e d t o d a n c e pre tty fre qu e n tly it i s to be ,

e mu !
. x xv rr . S UPE RS TI TI ON S .
3 17

h o p e d th a t t h e d e v il i s put i n to a to l e ra bly goo d hu mo ur

.
,

which d e s id e ra tum can o n ly b e o btai n e d by maki n g fre qu e n t

an d po li te in qu i rie s w h en h e will b e pl e as e d t o h a v e mu s ic ,

an d by pro mptly pro curi n g e v e rythi n g h e may d e ma n d by ,

t h e m o uth o f t h e po sse sse d wh e the r it b e fo o d o r w e arin g

,

app a r e l . Th e auspici o u s mo me n t a rri vi n g t h e fri e n d s o f th e ,

su ffe re r i n qui re o f h e r wh e n Ire will b e di sp o se d t o quit h i s

pre se n t re sid e n ce an d go t o hi s o wn pla c e Th e first time .

thi s que st i o n i s v e n ture d up o n th e spi ri t ge n e ra lly re plie s

,

th a t h e i s n o t ye t sa t i sfi e d with th e e n t e rta in me n t h e h a s
re c e ive d at the ir han d s an d se iz e s th e o pp o rtun ity o f d e
,

ma n din g s o me thin g mo re A fte r a time h o w e ve r i f thin gs

.
, ,

g o o n w e ll h e fix e,s a d a y fo r t a ki n g h i s l ea v e u su a lly t h e ,

7 t h a ft e r t h e d a y o n w hich h e m a k e s t h e a n n o u n c e m e n t .

Th e ha ppy ti me ha vi n g a rrive d a la rge p a rty i s a sse mbl e d ,

i n so me w ild sp o t in th e c o u n try a n d th e re mu st b e fea sti n g , ,

d an cin g an d mus ic as b e fo re but if p o ssibl e ca rri e d o n

, , , , ,

wi t h mo re th an u su al spirit Th e p a t i e n t j o i n s i n with th e
.

re s t ; an d th e d e vi l wh e n sat i sfie d an n o u n c e s hi s in t e n ti o n
, ,

t o d e p a rt Thi s h e sign ifi e s thro ugh th e me dium o f h i s victi m

.
,

wh o tak e s o ff h e r fin e ry ; th e n b o wi n g h e r h e a d sh e ki sse s ,

h e r han d s i n t o ke n o f fa re we ll a n d sta rt s o ff ru n n i n g a t a
, ,

pa c e which fe w me n co uld e qu a l Sh e ca n n o t h o we v e r .
, ,

k e e p it up fo r mo re th a n fro m fifty t o a hun dre d ya rd s whe n ,

sh e fa ll s t o t h e gr o u n d se n se l e ss A t thi s mo me n t th e spi rit

.

i s s upp o s e d t o ha ve l e ft h e r ; a n d l e st h e sh o uld fin d hi mse l f

w o rse o ff o ut sid e th an i n a n d cha n gi n g h i s mi n d r e turn t o
, , ,

h e r fiv e o r si x a ctiv e yo u n g me n are pre p a re d b e fo re h an d

, ,

a n d as so o n a s sh e st a rt s th e y fo ll o w h e r a n d c o mi n g up , ,

with h e r j ust a s sh e i s fa lli n g pl a c e th e mse lve s in thre a t e n i n g

,

a tt itud e s r o un d h e r b o dy o n e h o ldi n g a drawn swo rd a n o th e r

, ,

fi ri n g a ch a rge o f p o wd e r o ut o f a ma tchl o ck a n d a third ,

b ra n di shin g a l a n c e Thi s i s supp o se d t o in timid a t e th e

.

fi e n d a n d pre v e n t h is r e turn sh o uld h e b e so di sp o se d

, , .

Th e w o man wh o but a mo m e n t b e fo re wa s o utd o i n g a ll

,

t h e p a rty b o th i n t h e d a n c e a n d i n run n i n g n o w li e s
, ,

s tr e tch e d o n t h e gro u n d h e lpl e ss a n d e ma ci a t e d a s i f a ft e r ,

a l o n g ill n e ss Sh e fa i n tly c a ll s fo r wa t e r which i s giv e n

.
,
 3 18 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXVI I .

h er ; an d wh e nlittl e re st o re d sh e i s a sk e d h e r n ame
a , ,

which sh e a n swe rs co rre ctly a n d as a c o n clu s iv e pro o f of

h e r fre e d o m fro m th e p o we r o f t h e Evil O n e s h e i s re qu e sted ,

’
t o re p e a t t h e fo rme rly so much dre a d e d w o rd s B i sm Ab ,

o u W e ld o u Me n fus K o udd o s
”
a me o f t h e F a ther
, ( I n t h e n ,

a n d o f th e So n a n d o f th e H o ly Gh o st )
, A s h e e p o r a fowl
.

i s kill e d bro i l e d o n th e e mbe rs an d e a t e n wi t h bre a d The

, , .

’
p a tie n t s fri e n d s pa rt ake o f thi s fo o d wh e n th e d e vil goe s out
o f h er . Th e b o n e s an d re ma in s o f th e me a t a re bu rn e d with
fire a n d th e fragme n t s o f th e bre a d buri e d i n t h e gro und
, .

Th e s e are so l e ft fo r th e d e vi l tha t if h e sho uld c o m e back

,

t o t h e pl a c e h e may re ma i n an d fe e d a n d n o t go o n and ,

b o th e r th e wo ma n Thu s i s th e cure c o mpl e te th o ugh it

.
,

o ft e n ta k e s a c o n sid e ra b l e ti me t o e ffe ct it .

To man y o f my r e a d e rs it will d o ubtl e ss a pp e a r a n d very ,

n a tura lly tha t all th e s e sympt o ms a re i mp o s tur e s re so rt e d to

,

by t h e pre t e n d e d su ffe re rs a s a me an s o f pro curi n g t h e bor

ro we d fin e ry an d e n j o yi n g th e ga i e ti e s an d fe s tivi ti e s which
,

a re c o n sid e re d a s th e me a n s o f cu ri n g th e ir di s o rd e r This .

so u n d s v e ry pro ba bl e ; a n d I ca n n o t d e n y th a t such i s my

o wn o pi n io n th o ugh th e re a re still so m e p o i n t s whi ch have

—
,

ra th e r puzzl e d m e F irst a s in th e B o uda th e e xtra o rdin ary

.
, ,

ta l e n t fo r a cti n g which th e y di spl a y an d th e n t h e fa ct that

,

t h e i mp o sture h a s n o t b e e n di sc o v e re d a n d publi s h e d cen

turi e s ago but th a t it i s s till b e li e ve d by th e v e ry p e o ple
,

a mo n g w h o m it h a s so l o n g b e e n a n d s till d a ily c o n ti n u e s to

b e pra cti se d H o w i s it p o ssibl e th a t a w o ma n wh o i n her

.
,

yo uthful d ays may ha ve b e e n guilty o f such a h o a x sho uld ,

su ffe r h e rse l f t o b e i mp o se d up o n a n d l e d i n t o s o much

tro ubl e a n d e xp e n se by h e r childre n a fte rwa rd s P A n d yet

thi s i s o f c o mmo n o ccurre n c e F ro m thi s l a s t r e ma rk let it
.
,

n o t b e s upp o se d th a t y o u n g wo m e n a re t h e o n ly s uffe re rs

me n an d w o m e n o f a ll age s a re li abl e th o ugh t h e y o ung of

,

t h e fa ir s e x a re p e rh a p s t h e mo st fre qu e n tly p o s se ssed .

Last ly t h e mo s t p uzzli n g thi n g o f a ll i s w h e n a p e r so n acts

,

sick n e ss t o such p e rfe cti o n th a t A zra el hi m se l f i s d e c e ived ,

an d mi st a ki n g t h e fe ign e d ma l a dy fo r a re a l o n e fi n i shes it
, ,

by se ri o u sly ta ki n g awa y th e li fe o f th e sha mme r .

 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXVI I .

N o w, h a vi n g co n clud e d thi s di abo lica l subj e ct I may ven ,

ture t o d e duce fro m it o n e o r two pi e c e s o f a dvic e t o myfair

r e a d e rs F irst to such o f the m as may b e o f a n e rv o u s tem
.
,

p e rame n t I wo uld re co mme n d a gl ass o f so m e th in g warm

,

b e fo re go i n g t o b e d l e st h a vi n g re a d thi s th e y s h o uld dream

, , ,

o f th e d e vil Se c o n dly t o b e cauti o u s a b o ut sh a mmi ng hys

.
,

t e ric s fo r I d o ubt n o t th a t i n a ve ry sh o rt ti m e my j ar of

smo k e fo r which I thi n k o f o bt a i n in g a p a t e n t by t h e name

, ,

o f th e Pa te n t A n ti H yste ric o n Ab ys sin i c um wi ll b e in

-
,

ge n e ra l use Thirdly t o re me mb e r a truth cl e a rly t o ld in the

.
,

d e scripti o n o f t h e Tigritiya n ame ly tha t e xc e ssi v e fon dness , ,

fo r dre ss o rn ame n t s a n d d a n ci n g are so m e pro o fs o f b eing

, , ,

p o sse sse d by th e d e vil .

B e sid e s th e p o sse ssi n g d e vil s which w e h a v e d e scribe d the ,

n a tive s o f A by ssin i a b e li e ve i n th e e x i st e n c e o f man y other .

ki n d s o f spirits mo re o r le ss malign an t in th e ir di sp o si tions

, ,

as we ll a s i n gh o st s & c Th e re is a sp e ci e s o f e vil genius

, .

which th e y c all D abb a s o cc a si o n ally t o b e m e t with in cer ,

t ai n p arts o f th e t o wn o f Ad o u a O n e o f h i s m o st favourite .

h aun t s i s sa id to b e in th e stre e t n e ar th e bro o k w h ere H ajji

Yo h a n n e s th e A rme n i an bl a ck smith liv e s ; a n o th e r n ear the
, ,

h o u se o f A t o t san th e Go ve rn o r ; an d t h e thi rd near ,

t h e o ld p a l ac e o n t h e t o p o f th e hill Th e fo rm that he .

a s su me s i s a so rt o f thick blu e i sh mi st quit e di f fe ren t from ,

a n y o th e r v a p o ur in i t s app e aran c e an d so m e thin g h o rrible ,

to lo o k at I h a ve a sk e d man y p e rso n s wh e th e r t h e vapour

.

a ssu me s a hu ma n fo rm i n i t s o utli n e but h a v e n e v e r o btained ,

a sa ti sfa ct o ry a n swe r : It d o e s an d it d o e s n o t but it is , ,

fe a rful t o se e b e i n g ge n e ra lly th e ra th e r va g u e re ply W ire

”
, .

b e tid e th e man wh o sh o uld e ith e r ras hly o r i n a dve rtently

a ppr oa ch t o o n ea r t o th e t e rribl e s pirit fo r s o sur e ly as any
o n e p a sse s by it h e fe e l s a c o ld shudd e r a ll o v e r h i s body
, .

t h e c e rt a i n fo re ru n n e r o f d e a th So me are sa id t o h a ve fallen .

a t o n c e d e a d o n th e sp o t ; an d th o ugh a fe w h a v e lived to

re a ch th e ir h o me s an d re la t e th e h o rro rs th e y ha ve e ncoun
t e re d n o n e h a s e v e r r e c o v e re d fro m th e b an e ful i n fluence of
,

t h e D a bb a s .

The re a re p erso n s i n th e co u n try wh o are supp o sed to be

C HA P . XXV I I . S UPE RS TI TI ON S .
3 2 1

a bl e t o c a ll up spirits an d o btain fro m th e m a n y i n fo rmati o n

,

th e y m a y re quire The se me n are mo stly D e fte re rs (o r

.

S crib e s ) a n d a re re gard e d with a c e rta i n amo u n t o f ra th e r

,

d ubi o u s re sp e ct Th e sce n e o f th e ir i n can ta ti o n i s ge n e ra lly

.

s o m e ra vi n e w ith a stre a m ru n n i n g thr o ugh it

,
A s I ha v e .

o n ly h e a rd t h e re p o rt s o f t h e c o mmo n p e o pl e o n t h e subj e ct ,

I c a n n o t d e s crib e a ccura t e ly wha t ce r e mo n i e s are o b se rv e d ,

o r w h a t fo rm th e d e vil a s su me s o n quitti n g th e wa t e r a t th e ir

s u mm o n s My i n fo rman ts h o we v e r a ssure d me th a t h e came

.
, ,

a s a gre a t chi e f with th e u su a l tra i n o f sh i e ld b e a re rs b e hi n d

,
-

h i m a n d gu n n e rs b e fo re h i m
, .

Oubi h a s o n e o f th e se so rce re rs wh o pro cure s fo r h im a n y ,

i n fo rm a ti o n h e may re quire Thi s ma n wh o i s re put e d to .

,

b e v e ry l e a rn e d i s o f qui e t re tiri n g man n e rs an d a mi abl e di s

,

o s iti o n F o r so me ti me p a s t h e h as b e e n su ffe ri n g fro m a

p .

c uta n e o u s di se a se — n o t h o we v e r l e pro sy but lik e t h a t c o m

, , , , ,

p l a i nt ,
it h as l e ft h i m n e a rly w hit e T h e c o mm o n p e o pl e.

p o s itiv e ly a sse rt tha t thi s ch a n ge o f c o l o ur wa s c a u se d by a

s tr o k e fro m t h e d e vil wh o m h e h a d su mmo n e d ,

.

F e llaty o r kn o wi n g o n e s (c a ll e d i n t h e A mharic
”
Th e ,

A w ah y which h as t h e sa me m e a n i n g) a re a se t o f i m
”
, ,

s t o rs wh o pre t e n d th a t th e y a re pro ph e t s ; o r ra th e r th a t
p o , ,

b y t h e a i d o f th e sai n t s a n d di v i n e i n spira ti o n th e y c a n d i s
c o v e r s e cre ts o f a n y ki n d I n so m e p a rt s o f A by ssi n i a th e ir
.

d e c i s io n in ma tt e rs o f di sput e wh e re n o wit n e sse s c a n b e

,

p ro c u e r d i s c o n s id
. r
e e d i n fa llibl e — s o much so th a t it n o t
, ,

un fre q ue n tly o ccurs th a t t wo di sputa n t s wh o ma y a pp e a r ,

b e fo re a j udge with o ut e ith e r b e i n g abl e t o p ro duc e t e sti

rh o n y t o sub s ta n ti a t e h i s c a u s e are r e fe rre d t o t h e P e llety ,
.

—
Th e pro ph e t i s n o t a l way s i n c o n diti o n t o a c t c e rta i n da y s
) r n ight s such a s t h e p e ri o d o f th e full m o o n
,
a n d o th e r ,

o c h s b e i n g h i s ti me s o f c o n sult a ti o n O n th e s e o cc a si o n s
p
>
.
,

re i s s e a t e d i n h i s h o u se a mo n g h i s fri e n d s a n d se rva n t s ,

i l li n g t h e ir wo n d e ri n g e a rs w ith a dv e n t ure s (if so th e y ma y

) e c a ll e d ) o f h i s li fe such a s h o w o n a c e rta i n m o u n t a i n h e
,

ta d a n i n t e rvi e w w ith such a o n e o f t h e sa i n t s & c T h e ,

.

>e r s o n s w h o wi sh t o a pp e a l t o h i m h ave o n ly t o c o me a n d

v
3 2 2 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CH AP. XXVI I .

t d o ut sid e fo r it i s pre t e n d e d th a t h e ca n s e e th e m even

s an

thro ugh th e wall n ay mo re tha t h e can a t o n c e div i n e their

,

bu si n e ss a n d t h e me rits o f t h e ca u se t o b e tri e d The n he .

w ill sa y t o th o se a ro u n d h i m Two (o r m o re ) p e rso n s are

,

o ut sid e th e h o u s e : th e y a re c o me t o i n quir e o f m e o n such

a n d such a ma tt e r : l e t th e m b e ca ll e d ! S o th e y are ad
”

mit t e d an d h e a t o n c e d e cid e s th e ca se with o ut n e e ding to

, ,

put a n y qu e sti o n s t o e ith e r p a rty Thu s s upp o se t h e dis

.
,

put e t o b e a b o ut so me mo n e y which t h e o n e a ccu se s the

,

o th e r o f h a v i n g st o l e n fro m h im : t h e F e llaty w ill i n stantly

d e cl a re th a t th e man i s in n o c e n t o r guilty : i f t h e l a tter he ,

will de tail t o t h e gre a te st n ic e ty th e pl a c e w h e n c e t h e mo ney

wa s tak e n t h e dre ss th e ma n wo re a t t h e ti m e an d e very
, ,

pa rtic ul a r co n n e ct e d with th e a flair .

A l th o ugh a s I h a v e b e fo re said th e p e o pl e i n s o me parts

, ,

o f t h e c o u n try h a v e gre a t fa ith in t h e re v e l a ti o n s o f these

me n th e y a re n e ve rth e l e ss u n d e r th e b an o f t h e Church
, ,

a n d a re n o t a d mitt e d i n t o pla ce s o f w o r shi p .

Pe rso ns .

wh o c o n sult th e m a re lik e wi se e x c o mmu n ica t e d u n til th ey

sh a ll h a v e c o n fe ss e d th e ir fa ult a n d re c e iv e d a b so luti o n .

D e ja t c h Oubi h a d fo rm e rly o n e o f th e m ith h i m a Galla

w —
by birth n a m e d A b o u A i z e r Thi s ma n h a d b e e n in the
, .

D eja tc h H a i lo M a ri a m an d for
’
s e rv ic e o f Oub i s fa th e r , ,

ma n y y e a rs h a d c o n trive d by go o d luck an d d o ubtl e ss so me ,

t a le n t to k e e p h i s p o st o f a dvi se r an d t o la ugh a t e ve rybo dy

, ,

with gre a t succ e ss ; but a t l a st h e o ve rre a ch e d hi m se lf fo r he ,

c o u n se ll e d th e P ri n ce t o go t o D e vra Ta b o r a n d fight Ali ,

te lli n g h im tha t h e sh o uld c o me o ff victo ri o u s a n d p o sse ss the ,

’
w h o l e o f h i s riva l s t e rrito ri e s O ubi we n t a n d h avi n g lost
.
,

t h e d a y wa s put i n t o pri so n
, . A b o u A i z e r w a s prudent
.

e n o ugh t o fly fo r r e fug e t o a c o n v e n t i n Wa ld ab b a as soon ,

’
a s t h e n e ws o f O ub i s lib e ra ti o n r e a ch e d h i m .

I ha ve a ske d s e v e ra l n a tive s wh e th e r the y pl a c e d an y faith

i n th e pre t e n si o n s o f th e se me n So me h a v e r e plie d that
.

th e re wa s n o d o ubt in th e ma tt e r ; whil e a go o d m an y o thers ,

a n d I su sp e ct th e mo st sen sibl e p a rt o f my i n fo rman ts told ,

m e tha t in th e ir o pi n i o n the re wa s a go o d d e a l o f t ricke ry in

3 4
2 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXVI I .

an d t h e sa i n t walk e d first h avi n g pl a ce d h i s s ta ff upright

in ,
b e twe e n th e j aws l e st o n a cco u n t o f h is t we lv e wi n gs the
, , ,

m o n ste r sh o uld mi sta k e h i m fo r a co ve y o f b i rd s a n d devour

h im . H e c o un t e d h is te e th t o t h e n u mb e r o f ma n y m illions ,

a n d th e n withdre w A n a n ge l a pp e a ri n g t o h i m com
.
, ,

ma n d e d h im t o re turn t o h i s c o u n t ry a n d gi vi n g up his ,

so lit a ry li fe i n s truct h i s childre n (di scipl e s) i n w h a t h e had

se e n .Thi s h e did u n til th e da y o f h is d e a th Th e c onvent .

ca ll e d by h i s n a me i s n o w re so rte d t o by ma n y s ick p e rsons ,

o r by th o se p o sse sse d o f t h e d e v il o r ma d me n Th e fri ends

, .

o f t h e p a ti e n t s bri n g with th e m j a rs which th e y fill with ,

wa t e r a n d pl a c e n e ar t h e church Th e pri e s t s th e n read .

t h e li fe o f Ze rab ro k a n d c e rta i n o th e r o ffic e s o v e r the

, ,

wa t e r ; a ft e r which it is supp o se d th a t t h e s pirit o f th e saint

d e sc e n d s i n t o it ; an d thu s sa n ctifi e d it i s d a sh e d over
, ,

t h e h e a d s o f th e a fll i c t e d p e rso n s by th e ir re l a ti o n s This .

tre a tme n t i s co n sid e re d ve ry e ffica ci o u s i n ca se s o f lunacy .

Afte r o n e o r t wo j a rs h a ve b e e n p o ure d o v e r h i m a mad

ma n u su a lly sp e ak s d e cla ri n g h o w th e sa i n t h a s a ppeared
,

t o h im an d pro mi se d h im h i s re c o v e ry a d mo n i s hi n g h im to ,

l e a d a n e w li fe an d t o d e vo te h is ti me t o go o d d e e ds and
,

ch a rity .

’
Thi s i s th e e ffe ct which th e wa te r s/zou/a h a v e It some .

time s h o we v e r h app e n s th a t sickly subj e ct s di e u n d er this

, ,

ra th e r ro ugh tre a tme n t Th e se n o t with sta n di n g a re better

.
, ,

o ff th an th o s e w h o re c o v e r fo r th e y a re b e li e v e d t o pass
,

a t o n c e i n t o h e av e n e v e n th o ugh th e ir liv e s
,
h a v e been
s i n ful .

Th e re is an o th e r se t o f i mp o sto rs c all e d Z a c c h ari or

“ ”
, ,

t he di scipl e s o f A b o un a Ab e l The se are c o n fi n e d exclu

.

s iv e ly t o t h e p ro v i n c e s o f Tigre wh e re th e y a re i n re at
g
,

n u mb e rs a n d h a v e s e v e ra l me e ti n g pl a c e s n o t t o ca ll them
, ( -

mo n a st e ri e s) t h e pri n cip al o f which i s i n H a t z a b o near

, ,

Axu m It i s situa te d o n a hill n e ar th e t o p o f w hich springs

.
,

a s ma ll s tre a m th a t i n fa lli n g fo rms a so rt o f c a s c a d e Many .

s i c k p e r so n s o thith r t b th h vi n g r t f ith i th
g e o a e a g e a a n
,
e

re p ut e d he a li n g pro p e rti e s o f th e wa te r H a r d by is the .

C H AP . XXV I I . S UPE RS TI TI ON S .
3 5
2

re sid e n ce o f th e chi e f o f t h e Zac c hh ri wh o m t h e ba th e rs ,

u su a lly th i n k right to pro piti ate with small d o n at i o n s t h e ,

s ma ll e s t o f which a re gla dly re c e iv e d .

O n ce a y e a r o n th e a n n ive rsa ry o f th e pa tro n sai n t yo u n g

, ,

p e o pl e o f b o th s e x e s c o l l e ct a t thi s s p o t an d p ass thr e e d a y,

s

i n fe a s tin g a n d da n ci n g Pri e sts an d me n wh o e n j o y a

.
,

r e puta ti o n fo r l e a rn i n g o r di n ity d o n o t h o we v e r p a tro n iz e

g , , ,

th e s e a sse mblie s Th e i n flu e n ce o f th e Zacchari i s i n d e e d

.
, ,

c o n fi n e d a lmo st e n tire ly t o t h e l o we r cl asse s A man o f .

a n y pre te n si o n t o e duc a ti o n wo uld o rd e r o n e o f th e m o ut

o f h i s h o u se if h e ca me t o b o th e r h im : a gre a t chi e f lik e

, ,

O ubi w o uld pro bably ha v e h im whipp e d fo r h i s p a i n s M o re

,
.

o v e r like th e F e llat th e y a re e xc o mmu n ica t e d a n d (u n l e s s

, y , ,

n so m e
s e c re tly an d di sgui se d
) c a n n o t e n te r a church I .

p o i n t s t h e y r e se m bl e c e rt a i n se ct s o f M o h am m e d a n de r

w i sh e s The y are impude n t b e ggars : th e ir pri n cip a l victi ms

.

a re t h e wiv e s o f th e c o u n try p e a sa n try Th e hu sban d b e i n g.

o ut a t h i s wo rk o n e o f th e m w ill e n te r th e h o u s e a ttire d in
, ,

a s tr an ge c o s tu me chi e fly fo rme d o f l e o p ard ski n s gro wli n g

,
-
,

a n d ro a ri n g lik e a wild b e a s t an d s triki n g hi mse l f w ith a,

s ta ff o rn a me n te d with ri n gs o f brass o r silv e r w hich th e y a ll ,

c a rry . H e will d e man d o f t h e p o o r wo man a pi e c e o f cl o th ,

o r a qu an tity o f c o rn o r wh a t e v e r a rticl e h e m a y fan cy

, ,

s n a rli n g h o rribly a t h e r all th e w hil e an d thre a t e n i n g th a t , ,

s h o ul d sh e n o t c o mply s o me fe a rful d o me stic ca l a mity such

, ,

a s h e r d e a th o r tha t o f h e r hu sb an d o r child will b e th e c o n ,

s e q ue n c e .M o ve d by h e r fe a rs a n d sup e rstiti o n th e p o o r ,

w o m a n u su ally give s h im wh a t h e re quire s ; an d th e n h e

p r o m i s e s h e r a ll so rt s o f h a ppi n e ss t h e fir s t fruit s,
o f which
s h e mo stly re ali z e s i n t h e fo rm o f a sc o ldi n g o r p e rh a p s ,

a b e a ti n g fro m h e r hu sb a n d o n h i s re turn
, .

Li k e s o me de rwi sh e s th e y sh o w o ff fe a ts o f e n duran ce by
,

thrus ti n g the ir fe e t i n t o th e fire strikin g th e mse lve s with ,

whip s pre te n din g t o cut th e ir sho uld e rs with swo rd s a n d

, ,

vari o u s o the r tricks o f juggl e ry ; c o n ti n ui n g all th e time t o

gro w l a n d ro a r a t i n t e rval s while t e llin g th e fo rtu n e s o f t h e
,

bys ta n d e rs wh o u su ally sw e e te n th e ir pro ph e tic t o n gu e s with

,

gi ft s Th e y pre t e n d t o a c t thu s fro m b e in g mo v e d by t h e

.
3 2 6 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . x xvrr
.

s piri t ; th e ge n e ra li ty o f th e p e o pl e ho we ve r b e li e ve them
, ,

ra th e r t o b e i n l e a gu e wi th th e d e vil
.

A b o u n a A b e l wa s a mo n k an d re put e d a v e ry j u s t man ;
,

in l a t e r li fe h e b e ca me a h e rmit an d di e d i n t h e o do ur of
,

sa n ctity . A s i s th e c ase w ith man y o rigi n at o rs o f re ligi ous

se ct s t h e go o d e x a mpl e o f h i s li fe h as b e en fo rg o tt e n and
, ,

t h e ju s t pri n cipl e s h e t a ught h a v e b e e n p e rv e rt e d t o t heir

pre se n t co rrupt stat e by h i s d e grad e d fo ll o we rs .
3 2 8 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXVI II .

c o u n try n a turally appli e s t o h i s i n t e rpre t e r t o asce rtain

,

wh e re h e may b e st purch ase an ythin g th a t h e m ay n e ed

t h e se rvan t a s n a tura lly dire cts h im t o t h e sh o p s o f those
tra d e sme n fro m wh o m h e a n ticip a te s t h e high e s t p e rcent
age — thus o ur fri e n d ge t s a mo n g a b a d s e t o f tra de smen .

A d so o
n n w e re ,
I t o gi v e m y s e l f t h e p a i n s— w hich I cer
t a i n ly sh o uld d o i f I th o ught the re by t o i n t e re s t m y re ad ers
’
I c o uld p o rtra y a ft e r th e man n e r o f H o ga rth a
,
Trav ellers ,

Pro gre ss sh o wi n g h o w ste p by st e p h e a dva n c e s un til he

—
, , ,

a rriv e s a t sc e n e t h e l a st a t o ta lly fa l se e s ti m a t e o f the

,
’
n a ti o n s c h a ra ct e r .

Wh at I ha v e said o f most trave ll e rs i s p e rh a p s i n a c ertain , ,

me a sur e a pplic abl e t o a ll myse l f i n clud e d ; th o ugh of

, , ,

c o urse th e l o n ge r a p e r so n re ma i n s i n a c o u n try an d the

,

mo re h e mi x e s with t h e n a tive s a n d a ssi mila t e s himse lf to

th e m which i s o f still gr e a t e r i mp o rta n c e t h e l e ss lik ely is
, ,

h e t o fo rm a fal se O pi n i o n o f th e ir di sp o s iti o n s .

Th e re a re e rro rs t o o i n t o which th e re a d e rs o f travels

, ,

ma y fa ll a s we ll a s th e w rit e r : such as a t tri buti n g t o cha

ra c t e r wh a t ma y b e l o n g o n ly t o cu s t o m ; a s fo r i n s tance , ,

n a tura l cru e l ty t o a p e o pl e o n a cc o u n t o f c e rt a i n o f their

h abit s in wa r b e i n g cru e l i mmo ra lity t o th o se wh o a llow a '

plura lity o f wiv e s ; o r w h o like o ur A byssin i an friends ,

s e ld o m ma rry a t a ll pr e fe rri n g a s o rt o f c o n cubi n a ge

, and

thi e v i sh n e ss t o a B e d o ui n b e ca u se h e wa yl a ys a caravan
, .

B ut thi s i s n e a rly i n va ri a bly w ro n g .

Th e A byssi n i a n s a re o f a n e a sily e x cit e d t e m p e r ; but

u n l e ss th e s ubj e ct o f a qu arre l b e gri e v o u s p e a c e an d with , ,

it go o d fe ll o wship i s quickly re st o re d Thi s i s t h e case in

,
.

p e rso n a l ma tt e rs Wh e re h o w e ve r i n t e r e s t i s c o n ce rned
.
, ,

th e y a re n o t so e asily sa ti sfi e d fo r th e y e n t e r in t o law pro ,

c e e d i n gs a ft e r th e ir fa shi o n ) a n d t h e c o n s e qu e n t e xpe n ses

( , ,

with t h e gre a t e st re a di n e ss a n d fre qu e n tly fo r t h e most ,

a b su rd c a u s e s .

Th e ir l e ga l di sput e s a re c o n duct e d in a ra th e r d iflerent

'

man n e r fro m o ur o wn Th e y ha ve a so rt o f s e l f taught

.
-

c o un se ll o r wh o i s ca ll e d a ma gwa tc h but w h o i s n e ither

, ,
”

e duc a t e d fo r h i s pro fe s si o n n o r c all e d t o t h e b a r b e i n g o nl

y ,
 gi ft o f th e ga b .

v y
e er o ne in t h e

pe rso n s ha v e a di spute
33 0 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H A P XXVI I I
. .

c o n duct t h e di sputan t s b e fo re h is ma st e r H e fir st ties the .

c o m e rs o f the ir ga rme n t s to ge the r in a k n o t h o ldi n g which ,

i n h i s h an d s h e adj ure s th e m by th e ba ck o f O ubi and by

, ,

tha t o f th e chi e f th a t n e ith e r o f th e m s h o ul d pr e sume to

,

sp ea k whil e o n th e ir wa y A s thi s sp e ci e s o f a djuration

.

w ill b e fre qu e n tly me n ti o n e d durin g th e fo ll o w i n g n a rrative ,

it may b e a s we ll to sta t e h e re tha t th e pe rso n w h o disobeys

a n o rd e r so giv e n i s li a bl e t o a fin e n o mi n a l ly o f nine ,

d o llars which i s th e p e rqui site o f th e chi e f wh o h o wever

, , , ,

u sua lly co n t e n t s hi mse lf with e xa cti n g a p art o f it only .

So me di sputa n ts n e ve rth e l e ss agre e b e fo re h a n d th a t a mule

o r c o w sh a ll b e t h e fo rfe it .

’
A rriv e d a t th e chi e f s t h e litigan t s a re pl a c e d b e fo re him
, ,

with a se rvan t b e t we e n th e m t o pr e ve n t an y pe rso n al di s ,

pute s o r bl o ws sh o uld th e y b e i n cli n e d t o giv e v e n t to their

,

e xcit e d fe e l in gs The y the n have pe rmi s si o n t o o pen the

.

c au se An d first th e a ccu se r b e gin s by pla ci n g hi s o ppo nent

.

u n d e r re stric ti o n s l e st h e sh o uld di sturb h i s s pe e c h which

, ,

h e d o e s by a djuri n g h i m a s b e fo re tha t h e s h a ll n e ither

, ,

sp e a k n o r a dvan c e h i s fo o t n o r mo ve h i s h a n d i n th e way
, ,

o f ge sture u n til h e sh a ll ha ve h i s p e rmi ssi o n t o d o so

,
It .

mu st b e a v e ry di sagre e a bl e thi n g i n a n E n gli s h c o urt of ,

law t o b e o blige d t o h e a r t h e e xa mi n a ti o n o f t h e witn e sses

,

fo r th e O pp o si n g p a r ty with o ut b e i n g a bl e t o c o n tradict or
,

a n swe r a n
y s t a t e me n t w hich yo u k n o w t o b e fa l s e o r easy ,

o f e xpl an a ti o n H o w m uch mo re so mu s t it b e fo r a hot

.

t e mp e re d A bys sin ian ju st warm fro m a di sput e t o s tand by

, , ,

u n a ble e ve n t o ge sticulat e whil e h is o pp o n e n t i s savagely ,

a n d p e rh a p s u n j u stly a tta cki n g h i s h o n o ur o r w ha t i s yet , ,

d e a re r t o h i m h i s i n te re s t ! Still h e dare n o t bre a k through

,
”
h is re stra in t u n l e ss h e wo uld pay th e
,
Sabb a r o r p atience ,

fin e b e fo re me n ti o n e d
,
All th a t h e i s a ll o we d t 6 d o is to
.

gru n t Em e m which h e c o n ti n u e s to d o i n e ve ry tone ,

a n d e xpre ssi o n o f v o ic e so l o n g a s h i s a dv e rsa ry k e e ps him

,

u n d e r re stricti o n At la st h is turn c o me s a n d h i s tongue

.
, ,

be i n g lib e ra te d h e giv e s v e n t to h i s p e n t up fe e lin gs in a

,
-

pro p o rti o n a lly e xcit e d a n swe r ; h is a ccu se r b e i n g in turn

s il e n ce d i f h e ch o o se s
,
Witn e sse s a re ca ll e d ; docu
.
l e ss Je a l o u sy h a d gr o wn up a mo n g t h e m fro m ch
’
a t l a s t, a ft e r th e ir fa th e r s d e a th Assan , i n gra t i a t ir W
w ith Oubi (th e n l a t e ly e stabli sh e d in t h e go v e r
Tigre) i n duc e d h im t o d e p riv e D e st a o f t h e
,

o f Ga n da ft a which h e i n h e rit e d fro m h i s fa t h e r

, ,

it t o h im A s so o n a s Oubi l e ft th e c o un try o n
.

ditio n agai n st R as Ali which t e rmin a t e d i n h i s

,

D e v ra T a b o r an d B a lga d da A ra i a a p pe a re d o n
,

a s pre te n d e r t o th e thro n e D e sta j o i n e d t h e la tte

,

h is p e o pl e a n d by h im wa s re i n st a t e d in t h e pro v i n
,
.

l o st whil e Wassan co mp e ll e d to se e k s a fe ty in fli
, ,

san ctu a ry a t A x um .

B ut thi n gs did n o t l o n g re mai n in th a t s t a t e W .

a pp e a r e d o n t h e Ta c c a z y a ft e r h i s r e c o v e ry o f Si
,

r o ute fo r Tigre t h e B alga dda re tre a t e d b e fo re

,

En d e rt a ta kin g t h e wa y o f An t ich aufi a n d re tirc

,

stro n gh o ld in t h e mo u n t a i n s .

Wassa n ca me o ut fro m h is sa n ctu a ry a t A xum

camp e d fo r a whil e in th e vall e y n e a r th e s o urc e o f l
Assa m a b o v e Ad o u a
,
A fte r c o ll e cti n g a c o n s id e r
. :

o f tro o p s h e ma rch e d o n Ga n d a fta

,
a n tici a ti n g
p ,

bro the r o ve rawe d by h is di spl ay o f fo rc e wo uld n

, ,
’
l e a ve h im t o tak e p o sse ssi o n qui e tly B ut D e s ta s .

B y th i s e x pre s si o n I m ea n th a t—pe rh a ps
b e ca us e sh
h
d aug te o
r f so m e g r e a t m a n —s h e was co n s i d e re d b
y h im 3
th o ugh i n al l pro b a b i l it y ma rri e d o n ly i n th e s l igh t man r
 o
C H AP . XXV I I I . A N E CD O TE S OF CH A RA C TE R .
333

was one tha t re quire d mo re th an a me re sh o w t o i n ti midate

’
it a n d n o t hav in g fo rce s e qua l t o t
, san s h e re ma i n e d i n

hi s pl a c e a t A ssa y e a di strict o f hi s pro vi n ce

, t san .

h a d n o t c o urage t o a tta ck h im b ut e n camp e d a sh o rt d is ,

ta n c e o ff .

Thi n gs b e in g in thi s sta t e ma n y p e rso n s fro m amo n g

,

t h e ir m utua l a cqu a i n tan c e s a n d th e pri e st s o f t h e n e ighb o ur

h o o d i n te rfe re d b e t we e n th e m p o in ti n g o ut h o w di sgra c e ful
,

a thi n g it was th a t br o th e r s sh o uld b e o p e n ly a t wa r with

e a c h o th e r a n d urgi n g t h e m t o c o m e t o so m e a rran ge me n t
, ,

t h a t th e re might b e p e a c e b e t we e n th e m A ft e r much .

e n tr e a t y th e ir p o i n t wa s gai n e d a n d mo r e o v e r th e t wo
, , ,

m utua lly a gre e d tha t t o which e ve r o f t h e riv al pri n c e s

,

fo rtun e sh o uld giv e t h e thro n e t h e bro th e r wh o wa s i n ,

fa v o ur sh o uld pro te ct t h e o th e r ; th a t sh o uld Oubi ga i n t h e ,

d a y wassan sho uld i n t e rc e d e fo r D e sta a n d v ice ve nd i f th e

, ,

B a lga d da sho uld succ e e d .

A ft e r thi s agre e me n t th e rival c a mp s we re pitch e d n e ar t o

’
o n e a n o th e r a n d th e bro th e rs we n t t o a n d fro m e a ch o th e r 5
,

t e n t s i n app are n tly th e gre a te st fri e n d ship D e sta c o n .

,
’
fid i n g l n t h e o th e r 5 go o d fa ith e ve n a ll o w e d a gre a t p a rt o f
,

h i s s o l d i e rs t o re turn t o th e ir h o me s B ut th e e v e n t sh o we d
.

h o w littl e wassa n d e se rv e d such ge n e ro u s c o n fid e n c e ; fo r ,

’
n o so o n e r did h e p e rc e iv e th a t h i s bro th e r s c a mp wa s un

r o t e ct e d a n d th a t h e wa s e n j o yi n g hi m se l f fe a sti n g a n d
p , ,

m e rryma ki n g i n th e gre a t e st se curity tha n h e c o ll e ct e d h i s ,

m e n a n d a n n o u n ce d t o th e m th at th e p e a c e h e h a d ma d e
w a s n o t fro m h i s h e a rt but was me re ly a stra t age m t o thro w
,

D e s ta o ff h i s gu a rd It i s but ju stic e t o th e m t o re la t e tha t

.

fr o m ma n y o f h i s o wn p e o pl e a ro se a murmur o f d i ssa ti sfa c

’
ti o n a t thi s di sgra ce ful tre a ch e ry D e sta s ca mp wa s sur
ro un d e d an d
,
h e t ak e n fro m t h e t a bl e wh e re h e wa s
suppi n g . H e wa s b o un d a n d l e ft i n c h a l ge o f th e chi e f
,

o f Z a tt a a n e ighb o u ri n g pro vi n c e
,
wh o k e pt h im cl o se ,

ri s o n e r o n h i s m o u n t a i n till t h e a rriva l o f Oubi O n th e

p .

re t urn o f thi s Pri n c e Wassa n w e n t t o m e e t h im a n d t o ld

, ,

h i m w h a t h e h ad d o n e O ubi c o n gratul a t e d h i m o n h i s
.

s uc c e s s a n d se n di n g fo r D e st a o rd e r e d tha t h i s right h a n d
, , ,
3 34 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . xxv m .

ho uld b e cut o ff an d tha t h e sho uld b e k e pt i n confine

'

s ,

me n t fo r th e re mai n d e r o f h i s l ife i n th e m o u n ta i n fort of

Ta z z a n , i n Simye n .

’
Eve n u n d e r t h e xe cutio n o f thi s cru e l se n t e n c e Desta s
e ,

firmn e ss n e ve r d e se rt e d h im H e t o ld t h e e x e cuti o ner to

.

b e sure th a t h is kn i fe wa s we ll sh a rp e n e d ; a n d then ,

Spre a di n g h i s fi n ge rs i n o rd e r tha t th e di vi si o n o f the

,

te n d o n s a t th e wri st might b e mo r e e a sily ma d e submi tted ,

t o t h e a mputa ti o n witho ut a ll o wi n g h i s e n e mi e s t o see

, ,

e v e n by t h e e xpre ss i o n o f h i s fa c e th a t h e s u ffe re d any

,

p a i n Wh e n t h e h a n d was se ve re d h e to o k it up in his
.
,

l e ft with t h e utmo st co o ln e ss a n d sa yin g S e e ! I have

, ,

s till a h a n d with wh ich I ca n ca st a l an c e thre w it at the

chi e f wh o pre sid e d a n d th e n with as littl e h e s ita ti on as if
, ,

a b o ut t o wa sh put t h e bl e e din g stu mp i n t o a vessel of

,

b o ili n g butt e r which h ad b e e n pro vid e d fo r s t o ppi ng the

,

h e mo rrh age .

’
Oubi wa s cru e l e n o ugh t o pro p o se th a t D e s ta s son a ,

child o f n in e o r te n ye a rs o ld sho uld su ffe r a like punish ,

me n t ; but h e wa s o ve rrul e d by t h e chi e fs w h o to ld him ,

tha t h e h a d n o thi n g t o fe a r fro m th e la d wh e n h e grew up ,

a s h e b e i n g o n ly h e ir t o a mi n o r chi e fta i n s hip h i s i n flue nce

, , ,

e v e n i f h e p o sse s se d a n y wo uld b e a t b e s t b ut l o cal and

, ,

n o t lik e ly t o e n d a n ge r t h e tran quillity o f t h e thro ne of

Tigre So h is han d was spa re d but h e wa s se n t t o Taz zan
.

with h i s fa th e r wh e re th e y h a v e b e e n co n fi n e d e ve r since
, ,

a n d wh e re th e y will pr o b a bly c o n ti n u e a s l o n g as the

go ve rn me n t o f Tigre re ma in s with th e Simye n fa m ily .

H avin g thus gi v e n th e st o ry o f Wassan s tre a che ry to his

’

bro th e r it i s but fa ir tha t I sh o uld re la t e a n i n s ta n ce o f his

,

fid e lity t o h i s p a tro n O ubi an d th e co n se qu e n t crue l treat

,

m e n t h e su ffe re d at t h e h an d s o f D eja tc h W e ld a Ye ssous ,

’
that Pri n c e s u n cl e .

A cc o rdi n g t o so me p e rs o n s t h e o rigi n o f t h e quarrel,

b e twe e n We lda Ye sso us a n d wassa n wa s o w in g t o th e latter

h a vin g b e e n pre fe rre d t o th e fo rme r by Wa z ro Si mmerate ,

wh o a fte rwa rd s b e ca me Wassa n s wife

’
but I ca n n o t help
a gre e i n g with t h e maj o rity o f th o se with w h o m I h ave c on
33 6 L IFE IN A B YS S I N I A . e mu xxvur
!
. .

ne ph e w whil e o n th e c o n tra ry I am h e wh o o f all o thers

, , , ,

m o st se e k s h is we l fa re an d o n ly wi sh e d t o try y o ur fidelity
, ,

an d s e e i f by y o ur a tta ch me n t t o hi m yo u d e se rve d the

, ,
”
high pla ce tha t yo u o ccupy in h is e st e e m an d c o n fidence .

A t th e sa m e time a ffe cti n g th e gre a t e s t c o rdia lity an d friend

,

s hip h e i n vite d h i m t o pl a y with h i m a t

”
,
go u x .

Wassa n kn e w h i s man t o o we ll t o b e ta ke n i n by these

fa l se re pre se n ta ti o n s a n d e xp e ctin g so me tr e a ch e ry would
, , ,

willi n gly ha v e ba ck e d o ut o f th e pro p o s e d ga m e but dared ,

not ,
fe a ri n g l e st by so d o i n g h e might pro v o ke t h e chief .

H e th e re fo r e pre fe rr e d run n i n g t h e ri sk o f t h e danger be

su sp e cte d ra the r th an affo rd We ld a Y e s so us a pre text for
,

o p e n ly picki n g a qu a rr e l C ircumsta nce s o ccurre d at their

.

s t arti n g w hich by n o me a n s t e n d e d t o l e s s e n h i s s u spicions

th at fo ul pla y was d e sign e d Th e D eja sm a t ch w as a tt ended .

by e ight sl a ve s a ll mo u n te d wassa n h ad bro ught with

, .

h im te n fo ll o we rs wh o o n se e i n g th e ir m a s t e r se t out
, , ,

o ffe r e d t o a cc o mp an y h im B ut We ld a Y e ss o us pre vented .

thi s e xcla i mi n g
,
Wha t n e e d s so ma n y fo lk
,
“
We are
go i n g t o pl y a a n d n ot, t o b ttl e
a — a t th e sa me time

d e siri n g the m t o re p o se an d with th e gre a t e s t p o liteness , , ,

o rd e ri n g th e m t o b e furn i sh e d w ith pl e n ty o f fo o d a n d drink

wh e re with t o ma k e th e mse lv e s ha ppy .

wassan did n o t a t all a ppro ve o f the se m e a sure s ; but .

n o t h avi n g a n y e xcu se wh y h e sh o uld t a k e h i s p e o pl e with

h im wa s o blig e d t o yi e ld a n d acco rdi n gly pro ce eded

, ,
”
a cc o mp a n i e d o n ly by hi s ga sh a z ag y
r o r s hi e ld b earer -
,
-
.

O n a rrivi n g at a pla i n so m e di stan ce fro m t h e ca mp but , ,

c o n ve n i e n t fo r th e man oeuv rin g o f ho rse s th e y c o mmenced ,

th e pl ay A ll we n t o n we ll at t h e b e gi n n i n g
. Welda .

Y e sso us thre w h i s sta ff a t wassan wh o r e c e iv e d it o n his ,

s hi e ld a n d re turn e d t h e c o mpli me n t ; an d s o a fe w passes

,

w e re ma d e o n e ith e r s id e with a ll a pp e a ra n c e o f p e ace and

a mu se me n t B ut thi s wa s n o t th e ga me t h e D ejasmatch
.

h a d c o me fo r ; so it e n d e d sp e e dily ; fo r o n h i s making a ,

sign a l t o h i s sl av e s t wo o f the m s e iz e d t h e s hi e ld bearer

,
-

fro m b e hi n d an d b o un d h i m ; whil e th e o th e r s with their

, ,

ma ste r pursu e d t
, sa n , an d striki n g h im with t h e ir staves ,
.
 C H AR XXV I I I . A N E CD O TE S OF CH A R A C TE R .
3 37

i n ste a d o f thro win g th e m, as i s d o n e in t h e ga m e , kn o ck e d

h im o ff h is h o rse , a n d b e la b o ure d h i m till h e was s e n s e l e ss .

We lda Y e sso us the n with hi s o wn ha n d e ma scula t e d h i m,

t hi n ki n g pro ba bly tha t h e was d e a d . Afte r which h e
o rd e re d hi s sl a v e s t o ca st th e b o dy i n t o a h o l e , fo rme d by a

s ma ll c asca d e , i n a n e ighb o urin g bro o k . Thi s d o n e , th e y

re t urn e d h o me wa rd s, ca rryin g wi th th e m t h e shi e ld a n d

c lo th e s o f t h e ir victi m, wra pp e d up i n a bu n dl e , s o tha t th e y

mi ght n o t b e re co gn i se d Th e y in fo rme d h is se rv an t s th a t,
.

whil e o n th e ro a d , h e h a d re c e iv e d a p e re mpto ry me ssage

fro m th e Ki n g, re quirin g h is i mme dia t e a tt e n d an c e , a n d
t h a t h e h ad se t o ut fo r t h e camp by an o th e r ro a d . W e lda
Y e sso us, imagi n in g t sa n t o b e d e a d , wa s re j o ic e d a t

h a vi n g t hu s sa ti sfi e d h i s re v e n ge , an d succ e e d e d in ge tti n g
ri d o f h i m h e , in c o n se qu e n c e , o rd e re d a go o d supp e r, go t
e xc e ss iv e ly dru n k , a n d fe ll a sl e e p o n th e s tre n gth o f it .

B ut h e h ad fo rgo tte n tha t th e re h a d b e e n a wit n e ss t o th e

w h o le affa ir : i n h i s e xcite me n t a n d jo y a t t h e d e a th o f
t h e m as t e r, h e h a d n e ve r i n quire d a ft e r th e sh i e ld b e a re r
-
.

U n luckily fo r t h e murd e re r, thi s man h a d c o n tri v e d t o

e sc a p e w hile t h e sl a v e s w e r e bu sy with h i s ma st e r, a n d ,

m a ki n g th e b e st o f h is way t o t h e c amp , re la t e d t o so me o f
’
O ub i s a tt e n d an ts t h e p a rticul a rs o f t h e tra ge dy which h a d
j us t t a k e n pla c e The se we re i mme dia t e ly re p o rte d to th e
.

P ri n c e , wh o o rd e re d tha t i n stan t se arch sh o uld b e ma d e fo r

t h e b o dy, an d tha t it sh o uld b e bro ught t o h i s t e n t a s s o o n
as fo un d . Guid e d by t h e shi e ld b e a re r, a p a rty pro c e e d e d
-

t o t h e s p o t wh e re was san was kn o ck e d fro m h i s ho rse , a n d ,

t h e n c e fo ll o wi n g th e tra c e s o f bl o o d t o th e b ro o k wh e re h i s
as sa il a n ts h a d l e ft h im , th e y fo u n d t h e e x a ct pl a c e wh e r e h e

h a d b e e n thro wn i n , an d t h e fo o t ste p s o f th o se wh o h a d
d ra gge d hi m, an d u n d e rsto o d i mme dia t e ly tha t h e h a d b e e n
le ft t h e r e fo r d e a d ; but still th e b o dy wa s n o wh e r e t o b e
fo un d . A fte r so me se arch , o th e r tra ce s o f bl o o d w e re
d i s c o v e re d o n th e O pp o sit e b an k , which, b e i n g fo ll o we d up ,
l e d th e m, n o t , as th e y an ticip a t e d , t o th e pl a c e whith e r h e
h a d b e e n d ragge d a n d co n c e a l e d , but t o t h e chi e f hi mse l f,
wh o m t he y fo un d aliv e , tho ugh so re ly wo u n d e d an d fai n t
z
338 L IFE IN A B YS S I N I A . Cm . xxv m .

fro m l o ss o f bl o o d H e wa s crawlin g awa y o n a ll fo urs and

.
-
,

st a rk n a k e d It app e a re d fro m h i s sto ry th a t t h e water

.

fallin g o v e r h im h a d bro ught h im t o h i s s e n s e s H e th en .

dran k an d a ft e r th at ma n age d t o stan ch a s w e ll as he

, , ,

might t h e bl o o d which fl o we d c o pi o u sly fro m h i s wo un ds

,
.

Th e n fe a ri n g l e st so me o f h i s in te n d e d murd e re rs might
,

re turn an d fin i sh th e ir d e e d mo re co mpl e t e ly h e dragged ,

himse l f away i n th e h o p e o f b e in g a bl e t o re a ch so me but

,

o r vil l age H i s se rva n t s pro cure d a stre tch e r a n d having

.
, ,

co ve re d him w ith a ga rme n t ca rri e d h im t o O ubi t o whom , ,

h e re la t e d t h e ca u se o f h i s ill tre a tme n t a s s e rti n g it t o have

-
,

b e e n his re fu sa l t o j o in i n t h e co n spira cy a ga i n st him .

M e an while We lda Y e sso us wa s e a ti n g dri n ki n g a n d sleep , ,

i n g awa y i n ha ppy ign o ran ce o f a ll th e se e v e n t s

, I n the .

mo rn i n g h o we v e r h e was a wak e n e d e a rly by a c o n fide ntial

, ,

s e rvan t wh o ca me t o h i m b e a ri n g t h e dre a d ful n e ws that

,

t san wa s a liv e an d in t h e ca mp o f O ubi

,
Welda .

Ye sso us wa s st artl e d by thi s sudd e n an d u n e x pe ct e d com

mun ica ti o n ; but i n o rd e r n o t t o b e ta k e n un a wa re s he
, ,

d e sire d h is me n t o b e r e a dy an d putti n g o n h i s be lt and , ,

swo rd re ma i n e d p re p a re d e ith e r t o fly o r t o fight i f b ro ught

, ,

to b a y .B ut i n h i s n e ph e w h e h a d a ma n w h o was more
tha n e v e n lz zr ma tch in cu n n in g an d diplo ma cy
’

Oubi kn e w we ll th e d an ge r o f o p e n ly a tta cki n g so d eter

min e d a wa rri o r an d p o we rful a chi e fta i n a s h i s un cle ,

an d a cc o rdi n gly a ll o we d n o h o stil e pr e p a ra ti o n s o r d e mon

st ra t i o n s o f a n y ki n d t o b e ma d e ab o ut h i s c a m p H is plan .

fo r ta kin g h i m wa s i n fa ct si mil a r t o th a t w hich Welda

, ,

Y e sso us hi mse lf h a d u se d t o wa rd s Wassa n Oubi sent a .

me s se n ge r t o h im p o lit e ly re qu e sti n g h i s a tt e n d an ce as if
, ,

t o a fe as t We ld a Y e sso us judgin g t h e m e a n in g o f this

.
, ,

e n d e a v o ur e d t o e xcu se hi mse lf o n a cc o u n t o f s ickn e ss ; bu t

me sse n g e r succ e e di n g m e sse n ge r h e d e te rm i n e d t o go and , ,

a cc o rdin gly se t o ut a cc o mp a n i e d by a l a rg e
,
b o dy o f his
s o ldi e ry Th e ir a rriv a l b e i n g re p o rt e d t o t h e Prin ce he
.
,

i n quire d wha t wa s th e me an i n g o f th e tr o o p s P Welda

Y e s so us a n swe re d th a t th e y h a d c o m e t o r e m i n d h im Of
”
th e ir se rvice s b y go in g thro ugh th e fo uk e ra o r war boast ,
-
340 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CH AR XXVI I I .

upbraidin g th e m tha t the ir c o n duct was mo re like that of

wo me n tha n o f wa rri o rs ; th a t h ad h e b e e n fre e a n d o n the ,

fi e ld the y c o uld n o t all to ge th e r ha v e d o n e by fa ir fight

,

wh a t th e y h a d thu s tre a ch e ro u sly a ch i e ve d H e was kept .

i mp ri so n e d fo r thre e o r fo ur mo n ths Oubi b e i n g u n d ecided

,

i n wha t ma n n e r t o tre at h im Wh e n ho we ve r h e camped

.
, ,

at Ma i A i n y fe e li n g th a t h is pri so n e r wa s a burd e n t o him

, ,

an d fea ri n g t o l e a v e h i m l e st e sc apin g h e s h o uld o ccasion

,

much tro ubl e by e xcitin g t h e p e o pl e t o re vo lt h e called ,

t o ge th e r h i s chi e f me n a n d to o k co u n se l with th e m as to
,

wh at th e y sh o uld do with h im B e llad ta D arras o gave the

.

mo st c ru e l a dvi c e o f an y urgi n g tha t t o cut o ff h i s hand or

,

fo o t wa s n o t su ffi ci e n t t o pre v e n t h is fighti n g a ga i n st them;

tha t t o kill h im o utright wo uld it wa s tru e ma k e a n en d of
, ,

h im but tha t such pun i shme n t wo uld b e t o o l e n i e n t : and

,

b e sid e s tha t th e y wh o co n d e mn e d h im t o d e a th would

,

d o ubtl e ss b e re n d e re d a cc o u n ta bl e fo r t h e l o n g li st of
”
u n re p e n t e d si n s which might b e wri tt e n aga i n s t h im “
So ,

sa id h e I a dvi se tha t h i s li fe b e sp a re d but tha t it be

,
“
,

re n d e re d o n e of wre tche dn e ss an d mi se ry ”
A cc o rdi n gly he
.

sugge st e d th a t h i s e y e s sh o uld b e put o ut Oubi willi ng to

.
,

sp a re hi mse lf th e o ppro briu m o f such an a c t h an de d his ,

u n cl e o ve r e n tire ly to B e lla d ta Da rras o a n d Sh e lika Bille ,

e m po we ri n g th e m t o ac t t o ward s h i m as th e y s h o uld con

sid e r fit a n d pro p e r So th e y t o o k h i m an d h a vi ng b ound

.
, ,

h im h an d a n d fo o t thre w h im b a ckwa rd s o n t h e gro und

, ,

a n d fa st e n e d h i s h an d s a n d fe e t t o p o st s d riv e n in to the
”
fl o o r On e o f th e l e gs o f th e a ra t o r co uch o n which
.
“

h i s judge s we re se at e d wa s pla c e d o n h i s ch e s t an d the ,

e xe cuti o n e r pro ce e d e d i n h i s pre se n c e t o h e a t t h e bl ade of

t h e k n i fe with which h e wa s a b o ut t o O p e r a te These .

h o rribl e pre p a rati o n s we re th e las t sight s h e was ever

d o o me d t o se e ; a s so o n a s t h e bla d e was re d h ot the -

e x e cuti o n e r p ass e d t h e e dg e ro u n d e a ch e y e b a ll .

Oubi aft e rwa rd s gra n t e d h im a sma ll t e rrit o ry fo r his

ma i n te n an ce i n fo o d an d cl o thi n g H i s t e m p e r d o e s not
.

se e m t o b e much hu mbl e d n o r h i s di sp o s iti o n much im

pro ve d by th e l o ss o f his vi si o n O n c e , l at e ly h e killed an

.
,
C H AR XXVI I I . A N E CD O TE S OF CH A RA C TE R .
341

o ld an d v e ry fa ith ful se rvan t

pr o vo on t h e fo ll o w i n g slight
ca ti o n Th e p o o r man wa s waiti n g o u hi m an d se rvi n g
.
,

h i m s o me bro il e d m e a t t h e chi e f c o mpla in e d tha t it was

n o t sufli c i e n tly c o o k e d a n d e xpr e ss e d h i s a st o n i sh m e n t th a t
,

s uch s h o uld b e t h e c a se se e in g tha t h e h a d ma d e a si mil a r

,

c o m pl a i n t o n t h e pre c e di n g d a y Th e se rvan t re pli e d th a t .

it r e a lly wa s d o n e but tha t b e i n g juicy h is ta ste d e c e ive d

, , ,

h i m a n d h i s wa n t o f sight pre v e n t e d h i s d e t e cti n g t h e

,

e rro r . So yo u l a ugh a t me a s we ll a s d e c e iv e me b e ca u se , ,

I am bli n d l sh o ute d We lda Y e sso us : an d a t th e sa me

”
,

t i m e s triki n g up wa rd s w ith th e k n i fe with which h e wa s

e a ti n g h e s ta bb e d th e p o o r man i n t h e st o ma ch i n flicti n g
, ,

s o se v e r e a wo u n d th a t h e di e d i n a fe w h o urs .

H i s app e tit e a ls o i s wo n d e rful a m o u n ti n g t o a di se a se t o , ,

w h ich i t a pp e a rs mo st o f t h e e ld e r bran ch e s o f t h e fa mily

, ,

a re s ubj e ct I sho uld b e so rry t o re p e a t th e st o ri e s I h av e

.

h e a rd o f w fzole l a mbs e a t e n by We ld a Y e sso us a n d Lidge

A s tra t a s a pp e tiz e r s fo r t h e di n n e r o f raw b e e f which wa s
,

t o fo ll o w fo r I fe a r I sh o uld b e c o n sid e re d as d e ali n g i n

,

m a rv e l s e v e n b e yo n d t h e e sta bli sh e d right o f a tra v e ll e r .

I kn o w ma n y o th e r i n stan c e s o f cru e lty w hich wo uld

s h o w t h at thi s vic e d o e s n o t b e l o n g o n ly to gr ea t tyra n t s ,

b ut may b e fo u n d t o b e e xe rci se d e qu ally by m e n o f t h e

l o we st d e gre e On e in p a rticul a r might b e ta ke n as an
.

—
, ,

e xa mpl e — tho ugh o f co urs e a n u n u su a lly se v e re o n e o f

, ,

t h e tre a tme n t t o which th e p e a sa n try o f Tigre a re o ft e n

s ubj e ct e d fro m th e l awl e ss tro o p s o f A mh ara so ldi e ry which

a re co n sta n tly bill e t e d a mo n g th e m It ha pp e n e d n e a r .

H am l o an d wa s r e l a te d t o m e by t h e su ffe re r himse lf
,
.

Two so ldi e rs h a d b e e n qu a rt e re d a t h i s h o u se fo r a c o n
s id e ra b l e ti me e a ti n g a n d dri n ki n g a t h i s e xp e n s e
,
an d ,

w as t i n g h i s sub sta n c e in e v e ry p o ssibl e way O n e da y .

,

a m o n g o th e r thi n g s th e y d e ma n d e d o f h im a l a rge qu an tity

,

o f gh e e (me lt e d butt e r) H e furn i sh e d th e m w ith a s much

.

a s h e c o uld an d o n th e ir r e quiri n g m o re assure d the m th a t

, , ,

wh a t h e h a d a lre a dy suppli e d wa s all th a t h e h a d it i n h i s

o w e r t o giv e th e m D o ubti n g h i s w o rd th e y c o mme n c e d
p .
,

a s e a r c h thro ugh th e pr e mi s e s a n d a t l a st fo u n d a sma ll ja r , ,

3 42 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C R A P x xv. m
.

c are fully cl o se d an d sto we d awa y i n a sn ug c o m e r On this .

the y a ccu se d h im o f lyi n g an d a tte mpti n g t o s t a rv e the m ;

,

but h e d e cla re d th a t th e butte r wa s n o t h i s o wn h a vi n g been ,

l e ft in h i s ca re by such a o n e an d o ffe rin g t o pro duce ,

wit n e sse s t o t h e fact ; a ddin g tha t a s t h e c o n c e a l e d butter,

was so sma ll i n qu a n tity c o mp a re d w ith w h a t th e y had

r e ce ive d fro m h im th e y might b e sure tha t h a d it b e e n his
, , ,

it wo uld n o t hav e b e e n wo rth his whil e to k e e p it ba ck and

a t t h e sa me ti me giv e up s o much B ut th e y w o uld listen .

t o n o n e o f h i s e xcu se s ; th e y k n o cke d h i m d o wn and , ,

havi n g b e a te n h im till h e wa s se n se l e s s s tripp e d h im and , ,

th e n ta ki n g th e p e stl e o f h i s o wn fo u n d o uk ti e d h i m to
,
“
,
”

it a n d put h im t o ro a st b e fo re a la rge fire b a st i n g hi m with

, ,

t h e di spute d butt e r H o we v e r whe th e r i n te n ti o n ally or

.
,

fro m idl e n e ss th e y fo rgo t t o turn th e i r r o a st a n d i n con

, ,

se qu e n c e t h e ma n wa s t e rribly burn t o n o n e s i d e w hil e the ,

o th e r r e ma i n e d u n i n j ure d Wh e n I sa w t h e p o o r fe ll o w he
.

h a d n e arly re c o v e re d th o ugh judgin g fro m t h e fe a rful scar

, ,

which h e sh o we d me a ll d o wn h i s right sid e h i s cure must ,

ha v e b e e n n e a rly mira culo u s H e h ad j u s t r e turn e d from

.

th e ca mp wh ith e r h e h a d b e e n t o l ay h i s gri e va n c e s be fore

,

Oubi .

I mu st say fo r thi s Prin ce that h e se ld o m re fu se s justice

t o t h e O ppr e ss e d a mo n g hi s subj e ct s a n d o n e m ight a l most
te rm h im a ju st rul e r we re it n o t fo r su n dry littl e mi stakes
,

h e h a s m a d e wh e re h i s o wn in te re st was c o n c e rn e d On .

this o cca si o n h e fo u n d me an s b o th fo r ma kin g a me n ds to

t h e p e a san t a n d pun i shi n g th e s o ldi e rs fo r h e m a d e o ver to ,

h im th e wh o l e o f th e ir pro p e rty as a c o mp e n sa ti o n while , ,

t o sa ti sfy th e d e man d s o f ju stic e h e t o o k e a ch o f th e ir right

,
’
han d s Th e p o o r ma n s c o mp e n sa ti o n c o n si s t e d o f two
.

’
h o rse s two mul e s so me c o ws an d sh e e p t h e so ldi e rs arms
, , , ,

an d a littl e re a dy mo n e y b e sid e s .

B ut o f a ll th e m a n y sp e ci e s o f b a rb a ri ty th a t I h ave ever
h e ard o f e ith e r in A byssi n i a o r e l s e wh e re n o n e I think can
, ,

surp ass i n c o ld bl o o d e d n e ss th e fo ll o wi n g c a se s o f tr e a ch erou

-
s

murd e r which o ccurre d i n th e e xp e diti o n a ga i n s t th e Barea ,

n o rth o f A ddy Ab o .
 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CH AR XXVI I I .

I a ppl a ud yo ur d e t e rmin a ti o n an swe r e d Oubi and , ,

“

’
co n se n t to th e murd e re r s d e ath B ut yo u h a v e n o re lations .

he re : will yo u kill h im yo urse l f ! I f I c a n n o t ki ll him

mys e l f Go d wi ll fin d so me o n e t o re ve n ge m e
”
,
was the ,
’
d e te rmi n e d o ld wo man s re ply .

To e xpla i n thi s b e it kn o wn th a t th e cus t o m a n d law of

,

Abyssi n i a i s tha t a murd e re r wh e n c o n vict e d i s given up to

,

th e r e l a ti o n s o f h i s victi m o f w h o m t h e n e a r e s t o f kin puts

,

h i m t o d e a th w ith t h e same ki n d o f w e a p o n as tha t with

which h e h a d sl a i n th e ir re l a tiv e .

A ft e r e n d e a v o uri n g i n e ffe ctua lly t o sh a k e h e r purpo se by

in cre a sin g t h e amo un t o f ran so m o ffe re d O ubi co n sented ,

tha t sh e sh o uld se n d t o a n e ighb o uri n g villa ge w he re she

h ad so me di st an t re la tiv e s A cco rdin gly i n a d a y o r two a
.

co un tryma n a rrive d t o ta k e th e o ffi ce o f e xe cuti o n e r He .

was a v e ry clu msy cl o wn ; a n d o n th e pri so n e r b e in g laid

b e fo re h i m tru sse d up in a he a p in s t e a d o f killing him
, ,

qui e tly a n d d e licat e ly h e b e gan t o sta mp a n d st rut about

,

h i s Do u mfat e r o r b o a st d an cin g an d p ara di n g a s i f abo ut to

, , ,

d o b a ttl e with a n e n e my sup e ri o r i n fo rc e a n d screaming ,

fo rth h i s va l o ur i n th e mo st e xtravagan t t e rms h e kill e d the

s o ldi e r but n o t u n til h e h a d i n flict e d s e v e n l a n c e wo un ds in
,
-

h i s b a ck b o dy an d thro at
, , Th e sight wa s m o s t di sgusting
.
,

a n d a l l pre se n t h o o t e d t h e l o ut tho ugh n o n e pitied the ,

su ffe r e r, o n a cc o u n t o f the h o rri bl e n a ture o f t h e cri me which

h e e xpi a t e d A s fo r t h e o ld w o man Oubi b e h a v e d most

.
,

ge n e ro u sly t o wa rd s h e r makin g o v e r t o h e r th e w h o l e o f the

,
’
so ldi e r s pr o p e rty a s we ll a s t h e sum h e h a d o f fe r e d t o ransom
h im .

A n o th e r murd e r, i mil a r t o thi s w as a tte m pt e d in the

s ,

sa me e xp e diti o n ; but th e p e rpe tra t o r o f it m e t with his

pu n i shme n t o n t h e sp o t Two me n we re o ut i n th e forest

.

—
to ge th e r th e o n e a so ldi e r th e o th e r h is se rv a n t a lad of , ,

a b o ut 1 9 wh o c a rri e d h i s shi e l d
, Th e D e vil a pp e are d to .

th e fo rme r in th e sh ap e o f Va n ity an d by wo rki n g up in his ,

mi n d v i si o n s o f gl o ry which h e h ad n e v e r b e e n able to
,

r e a liz e in b a ttl e t e mpte d h i m t o murd e r h i s fe ll o w He

, .

yi e ld e d a n d struck h im fro m b e hin d with h is l an ce The

, .
 H AP ., XXV I I I . A N E CD O TE S OF CH A R A C TE R .
345

wo u n d wa s in d e e d d o e s it a pp e a r fro m th e
n ot mo rta l ; nor

se qu e l t o h a ve b e e n o f much i mp o rt an c e Th e se rvan t .
,

fin d in g hi m se l f wo u n d e d gu e ss e d t h e h o rribl e i n t e n ti o n o f
,

hi s m as t e r an d b e gan t o i mpl o re h im My mast e r said ”

.
, ,

th e p o o r fe ll o w I ha v e se rve d yo u wi th a ll fid e lity fro m a

‘

b o y up t o t h e pre s e n t ti me n o w s e v e n y e ars ; du ri n g all ,

w hich p e ri o d I ha v e n e v e r re c e iv e d n o r a sk e d o f yo u an y
w ag e s but o n ly th e mo rse l I e a t a n d t h e ra gs I we a r ; a n d
,

w il l yo u n o w kill me
”
My go o d la d c o o lly re pli e d th e m i scre an t wha t yo u
, ,

s ta t e i s p e rfe ctly tru e : yo ur se rvic e s h a v e b e e n e x e mpl a ry ,

b ut as ye t are i n c o mpl e te To h a v e s e rv e d me fa ithfully

.

fo r se ve n ye a rs i s c o n sid e ra bl e cre dit t o yo u but it will b e

s ti ll mo re h o n o ura bl e t o yo ur me mo ry th a t by yo ur d e a th

o u s h o uld b e th e m e a n s o f pro curin g fo r me much re n o wn

y ,

a n d pe rh a p s (wh o kn o w s !) se v e n sh o uma t vill a ge s t o

(
Thus sa yi n g h e struck th e b o y o n th e h e a d with
h i s club a n d stu n n e d h i m ; an d th e n t o ma k e ma tte rs
, ,

c e rtai n s t abb e d h im thro ugh t h e n e ck with h i s l a n c e

,
A ft e r .

t h i s t h e go o d man imagi n i n g th a t h i s wo rk wa s c o mpl e t e

, ,

r o c e e de d with t h e utmo s t d e lib e ra ti o n a n d i n th e mo st

p
s c i e n tific ma n n e r t o p o sse s s hi m s e l f o f t h e c o v e t e d tr o p h y ;

w h ich O p e ra ti o n h av i n g be e n succe ssfully p e rfo rme d h e ,

re turn e d t o th e c a mp by a circ uit o u s r o ute Th e re h e re la te d .

h o w h e h a d b e e n a tt a ck e d wh e n i n a di sta n t p a rt o f th e ,

fo re s t by fea rful o dd s ; h o w h i s p o o r a n d fa ith ful fo llo we r

,

h a d b e e n sla i n figh ti n g in th e mo st ga ll a n t ma n n e r ; whil e

'

h e hi m s e lf a ft e r killi n g o n e o f th e e n e my succ e e d e d i n
, ,

u tti n g th e r e ma i n d e r t o flight ; a t t h e sa me ti me sh o wi n g
p ,

as pr o o fs o f th e r e a li ty o f h i s s t o ry ma rk s o n h i s swo rd a n d ,

s h i e ld which lik e o ur e qu a lly va l o ro u s frie n d Si r J o hn

, ,

F a ls ta ff h e h ad hi mse l f h a cke d with h i s k n i fe ; o r ra th e r

, ,

t h e sw o rd with t h e l a n c e a n d th e shi e ld with t h e swo rd , .

B ut murd e r will o ut
“
a n d u n fo rtu n a t e ly fo r h im so me

o f h i s h e a re r s e ith e r fro m curi o sity o r di s cr e diti n g h i s ta l e

, ,

ro p o s e d t o r e turn t o t h e sc e n e o f a cti o n a n d a sk e d h i m
p ,

t o guid e th e m thith e r H e re fu se d fl a tly sayin g th a t t h e

.
,

spo t w as a l o n g wa y O ff that h e wa s fa tigue d an d be sid e s ,

346 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXVI II .

tha t t h e e n e my, wh o h a d fle d, wo uld no d o ubt c arry the

’
n e ws o f the ir co mrad e s d e a th t o th e ir fe ll o w s a n d retum
,

i n fo rce t o re c o v e r t h e b o dy a n d ,
i f p o ssibl e t o a v e n ge his
d e a th .

By such a rgu me n t s a s thi s h e succ e e d e d in di ssu a ding the

mo re ti mo ro u s o f t h e p a rty fro m ca rryi n g o ut th e ir pro posal ;
but o the rs e ith e r l e ss cre dul o u s o r mo re c o ura ge o u s than
,

t h e r e st d e t e rmi n e d priva t e ly t o re tra c e h i s s t e p s a n d dis

,

c o ve r th e t ruth o f th e ma tte r A mo n g th e m we re some .

fri e n d s o f th e murd e re d la d A cc o rdi n gly l e a vi n g th e camp

.
,

o n so me pre t e xt th e y se t o ut i n t h e dir e cti o n by w hi ch he

,

h a d re turn e d an d a ft e r wa n d e ri n g a b o ut i n t h e fo re st for a
,

—
c o n sid e ra bl e time n o w l o si n g t h e track n o w r e ga i n in g it ,

we re a b o ut t o r e turn to th e ir h o me s i n d e spa ir wh e n a cry ,

o f s urpri se fro m o n e o f th e p a rty (which h a d s e p a ra ted in

se e kin g th e tra il) ca ll e d t h e a tt e n ti o n o f t h e r e s t t o the

o bj e ct b e fo re h im The ir h o rro r an d a s to n i sh me n t can he

.

mo re e a s ily u n d e rst o o d than d e scrib e d w h e n th e y b e h eld at ,

a s h o rt di s ta n c e t h e u n fo rtu n a t e la d dra ggi n g h i s mutilated

,

b o dy i n t h e dire cti o n o f th e camp a n d n o w o n b e hol ding , ,

the m i mplo ri n g i n a sca rce ly a udibl e v o ic e t h e ir as sistance

, , ,

an d a dra ught o f wa t e r H i s thirst b e i n g i n a measure

.

sa ti a t e d th e y pro ce e d e d t o ca rry h im h o m e wa rd s and

, ,

man age d m o re o ve r t o giv e priva te n o tic e t o Oubi o f what

, ,

h a d o ccurr e d .

’
Oubi o n h e ari n g th e sto ry an d s e e i n g t h e p o o r fe llows
, ,

c o n diti o n dire ct e d tha t h e sh o uld b e c a re fully a tt e n ded to

, ,

a n d ga v e t h e s trict e s t o rd e rs t o a ll a cqu a i n t e d with the

a ffa ir th a t it sh o uld b e k e pt a pro fo u n d s e cr e t The boy .

,

n o twith sta n di n g t h e n u mb e r a n d ma gn itud e o f h i s wo unds.

live d ; a n d a sh o rt time a fte r th e o ccurre n c e t h e so ldiers ,

b e i n g a b o ut to go thro ugh the ir b o a s t a n d t e ll th e ir deeds

”
(
“
c o u n t th e ir c o up s a s it w o uld ,
b e c a ll e d i n t h e N orth
A me rica n phrase o l o gy) Oubi c o n c e a l e d th e p a ti e n t under
,

s o me dra p e ry b e hi n d h i s c o uch in t h e v e ry pla c e where ,

we re th e o rn ame n t s a n d o th e r gi ft s i n t e n d e d fo r th o se who
h a d di sti n gui sh e d th e ms e lv e s .

A t l e n gth ca me th e turn o f o ur A by ssi n ian F alsta ff He .

348 LI F E IN A B VS S I N I A . C HAP . XXVI II .

a wo u n d o f so me de pth an d th e n fe ll fa i n ti n g o ver his

,

victim fr o m sh e e r e xha u s ti o n N 0 d e s cri pti o n o f t h e con

.

t o rti o us o f th e snfle re r n o r o f h is ye ll s till h e w as gagged

, ,
’
n e e d b e a dd e d t o thi s a lre ady t o o h o rribl e s t o ry B y Oubi s .

o rd e r t h e se n se l e ss e xe cuti o n e r wa s re m o v e d a n d a lance ,
’
t hrus t d o wn wa rd s o bli qu e ly thro ugh t h e p ri s o n e r s throat
e n d e d h i s sufle rin gs
'

A n o th e r A byssi n i an kill e d in a simil a r m a n n e r an d for ,

s imil a r purp o se s o n e o f t h e Arab a lli e s fo l l o we rs o f Nim

, ,

me r t h e J aly chi e f H is e xcu se was th a t t h e si milarity of

, .
,

c o stu me an d we a p o n s o f thi s p e o pl e a n d t h e h o s ti le BM
h a d l e d t o th e mi sta k e ; but t h e Ara b s cl a i m e d h i s blood ,

a n d t h e cri me b e i n g pro ve d aga i n st h i m

, O ubi gave him ,

o v e r t o th e ir te n d e r me rci e s H is pu n i sh m e n t was most

.

s u mma ry .B e fo re th e y h a d l e ft t h e pre se n c e o f th e Prince ,

o n e o f t h e re l a ti o n s o f th e d e c e a se d d ra wi n g h i s h e avy two

e dge d bro a d swo rd cut th e culp rit thro ugh with o n e bl o w; and
-

turn in g t o Oubi said in Arabic Ma y Go d l e n gt h en your

—
, , ,

li fe o h my
,
m as te r just a s h e wo uld ha v e d o n e had he
re ce iv e d a pre se n t fro m h is han d s a n d th e n picking up ,

a wi sp o f grass fro m the fl o o r wal k e d a w a y wiping his

, ,

blad e with a s much ra ng fr ozd a s if n o th in g h a d o ccurred .

Oubi i s sa id t o ha ve e xpre sse d much a d mira ti o n at the

man ly o ff han d way in which thi s wa s e x e cut e d as well
-
,

a s at t e w h o n f l
d e r u di pl y
s a o f sw o s m
rd an s hip — wo n derflll
in d e e d c o mp are d with th a t o f hi s p e o pl e wh o partly , ,

fro m th e sh a p e o f th e ir swo rd hilt s ; a n d pa rtly fro m the

-

qu ality o f th e ir bla d e s ca n scarce ly e v e r i n flict a serious

,

wo u n d .

I kn o w fro m ve ry go o d a utho rity tha t t h e fa cts of the

A rab b e i n g murd e re d a n d t h e sub se qu e n t e x e cuti o n of the
cri mi n al are tru e th o ugh I wa s n o t pre se n t w he n it o ccurred
,
.

It was re l a te d to me tha t t h e ma n wa s cut c o mpl etely

thro ugh t h e wa i st ; but tho ugh I d o n o t di s pute th e fact ,

I do n o t wi sh an y o f my re a d e rs wh o thi n k such a fel t ,

i mp o ssible t o b e li e v e it in th e pre se n t in s tan ce I have

, .

kn o wn fo r c e rta i n o f t h e same fe a t b e i n g p e rfo rmed by

 CH A P . XXV I I I . A N E CD O TE S OF CH A R A C TE R .
3 49

‘
Turk s w ith the ir cro o ke d sabre s but n e v e r by a n A rab ,

wi t h h i s s t raight swo rd tho ugh the y ca n o cca si o n ally

—
,

ad m i n st e r go o d do wn right blo ws wit n e ss t h e c an n o n

’
wh ich i s k e pt a t L O b e yd i n K o rd o fan t h e n o tch o n which
, ,

i s e vid e n c e o f t h e stren gth o f arm an d t e mp e r o f bla d e o f

th e D a rfo ury e u n uch .

I d a re sa y tha t fro m t h e first pa rt o f th e cha pt e r so me

o f m y r e a d e rs may h a v e a n ticip a t e d tha t I wa s a b o ut t o

sh o w O K t h e A by ssin i a n s as c o mbi n a ti o n s o f e v e rythi n g th a t

w as go o d a n d la ud abl e a n d i n c o n s e qu e n c e ma y h a v e b e e n
,

di s appo in t e d i n t h e r e sult O n th e c o n tra ry fe a ri n g l e st

.
,

t h e c h a ra cte r I was a b o ut t o gi v e o f th e m might b e c o n

si d e re d ha rsh i f u n d e rs to o d t o b e a ppli e d t o th e n a ti o n
,

in ge n e ra l I th o ught n e c e ssa ry t o pre face it in o rd e r t o

, ,

i n t o ut th a t t h e O pi n i o n o n e m a y fo rm o f a p e o pl e fro m
p o

a fe w gla rin g i n s ta n c e s o f cri me o r e v e n fro m so m e d e e d s

,

o f a n o pp o sit e n a ture wh e th e r o f va l o ur o r b e n e v o l e n c e
, ,

o ught n o t t o b e crit e ri o n s o f th e e n tire n a ti o n I sh o uld .

say o f th e A mhara so ldi e r s an d fr e qu e n tly o f t h e t o wn s

,

Wh e n A h m e d P a ch a Me n i k li co n que re d th e re b e ll i o us ( o r rath e r

p at r i o t ic ) t ri b es o f Taka , h e c o ll e ct e d so me th i rty o r fo rty ch i e fs an d me n

o f n o t e , an d ma rch e d th e m o ff pri so n e rs, t o b e b ut ch e re d i n th e ma rk e t
p l a c e o f E l K h a rt o um M a n y o f t h e m , e i th e r fro m o b st i n acy o r fa tigue ,
.

h al t e d o n th e march , re fus i n g t o pro ce e d a n y furth e r S uli man C as h if,

.

w h o c o m ma n de d th e es co rt, h a v i n g o rd e rs t h a t a ll such sh o uld b e put t o

de at h o n th e spo t, i s sai d to h a v e pract i se d h i s sw o rds man sh ip o n th e m
b y c utt i ng th e m th ro ugh th e w a i s t as th e y st o o d My frie n d , Mo ussa
.

’
B e y, in t h e s a me e xpe d i ti o n , un i n te n ti o n a l ly cut a h o rs e s h e a d cl e an o ff .

H e w as i n co mman d o f an e x pe d iti o n , co mpo se d pa rtly o f Sh age ya

( A r a b ) h o rse me n M e e
. t i n g w i t h a v e ry s t r o n g fo rc e o f t h e e n e m y , so me

o f h i s so ldi e rs b e gan t o sh o w sym pt o ms o f pan i c, a n d , t h e figh t b e co m

i n g dis ag ree a b ly h o t , th e S h age ya, e i th e r fro m t re a ch e ry o r n e rvo usn es s ,
wa v e re d . Mo ussa B e y, se e i ng o n e o f th e m t urn h is h o rse s h e a d , a n d’

ma k e o ff fo r th e jun gl e , d e te rmi n e d t o ch e ck so d an ge ro us an e x ampl e

b y s umm ary me a n s, a n d so gav e ch as e to th e fugi t i ve B e in g b e tte r
.

m o un t e d , h e so o n ca me up wi th h i m ; b ut th e A ra b , n o t l i ki n g h i s
q p m ran ce as h e st o o d up i n h i s s t i rrups w i t h h i s n as t y li tt l e c ro o k e d

o l i v e b ro wn b la d e , re a dy fo r a b a c k s t ro k e , t h re w h i s h o rse sudd e n ly
-

’
b a ck o n t o h i s h aun ch e s, an d d ro ppe d o ff th e h o rs e s h e a d w e n t up
i n t i me t o rece iv e th e b l o w t h a t w as a me d a t i h i m — h e man
j u s t s as t e r t
o t a w a y amo ng t h e b us h es I k n o w ple n ty mo re such an e c d o te s
g . .
35 0 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . xxv m .

p e o pl e have h ad much i n te rc o urse with th e m that they

wh o ,

a re fo r th e mo st p ar t e xc e ssiv e ly v ain Thi s i s th e ir chief .

a n d b e se tt i n g si n The y a re al so ra the r c o wa rdly very

.
,

d e c e itful an d tr e ach e ro u s graspin g a n d c o v e t o u s vicious,

, ,

d e ba uche d an d thi e vi sh Whil e as t o t h e p e asan try of

, .
,

wh o m th e o rdin a ry trav e ll e r se e s littl e a n d h e a rs less ,

tho ugh the y fo rm t h e maj o rity o f th e n a ti o n I sh o uld say ,

tha t b arri n g ign o ra n ce an d p o ve rty t h e y h a v e as few sins

, ,

o r vic e s t o b e l a id t o th e i r ch a rg e a s an y p e o pl e u n de r the

sun . I am sp e akin g o f t h e Tigrean s I k n o w little o f the .

Amharas e xc e pt t h e s o ldi e ry o f wh o m I ha v e j u st sp oken in ,

n o v e ry fl a tt e ri n g t e rms .

Th e Abyssi n i an s i n ge n e ral a re p atr o n izi n gly co n d escend

i n g t o wa rd s th e ir i n fe ri o rs an d ra th e r di sp o s e d t o b e servile
,

wh e n i n t h e pre se n ce o f a sup e ri o r Th e y are a t all times .

o v e rfl o wi n g with c o mpli me n ta ry sp e e ch e s w hich ho wever , , ,

mu st n o t a lwa ys b e ta ke n a s pro ce e din g fro m t h e h e art The .

so ldi e rs i n th e ir ma n n e rs a re as much giv e n t o c e re mo ny as

an y o n e with much l e ss si n c e rity

,
A s o ldi e r s e n t pe rhaps .
,

o n a me ssa ge t o yo u fr o m s o me chi e f will a ppro a ch you r ,

ro o m with th e gre a t e st p o ssibl e app e ara n ce o f r e sp e ct He .

will e n t e r with h i s sh o uld e rs ba re a n d a s i f fe e li n g bashfu l , ,

b e fo re so much gre a tn e ss will re mai n fo r a fe w mo ments by ,

t h e d o o r b o win g lo w t o y o ur r e p e a t e d s a l uta ti o n s an d you

, ,

r e qu e sts tha t h e will b e se a t e d At l as t a s i f h a vin g gai ned .

,

c o n fid e n ce h e will i n fo rm yo u a fte r appro a c h i n g a fe w steps

, ,

tha t h i s ma ste r Mr So an d so se n d s yo u h i s c o mp li ments

, .
- -
,

an d G o o d mo rn i n g H o w are ye si n c e I sa w ye ! How att

.

”
y e ! H o w a re ye V e ry m uch T o thi s o n y o ur an swering .
,

Go d b e pra i se d h e will mak e a n o th e r b o w an d remain

, ,

wh e r e h e i s P e rha p s a fte r a whil e h e w ill c o n se n t to be

.
, ,

se a t e d with much sh o w o f di si n cli n a ti o n t o ta k e such 8

,

l ib e rty Th e n agai n h e will ri s e an d a ppro a ch yo u a few

.

st e p s a n d d e liv e r so me o th e r c o mpli me n ta ry me ssage from

,

hi s ma ste r Thi s ti me h e will se a t hims e lf n e a r y o ur coudl

.

with o ut b e i n g a sk e d H e w ill so o n h o w e v e r ri se a gain and

.
, , ,

te ll yo u in a co n fid e n ti a l whi sp e r b e hi n d t h e co rn e r of his
cl o th wha t was th e r e al purp o rt o f h is c o min g : p robably
 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXVI I I .

a gi ft a jar o f h o n e y an d so me cake s o f bre a d (ka rma ) and l , ,

ha ppe n in g a t t h e mo me n t t o b e i n wan t o f b o th o f th e se arti

cl e s a cc e pt e d th e m with ma n y than ks Sh o rtly a fte r I sent
,
.
,

t h e ma n i n re turn a pre se n t o f a b o ut twic e th e ir va lu e taking ,

the m a t t h e high e st e sti ma ti o n H e s e n t b a ck th e money .

,

sa yi n g tha t h e h a d n o t bro ught th e a rticl e s t o s e ll b ut as a ,

gift I re pli e d tha t wh a t I h ad re turn e d h i m w as n ot as

.
,

p ayme n t b ut a s a re cipro ci ty o f go o d will an d th a t as he

, , ,

did n o t cho o se to tak e it I was d o ubly o bli ge d fo r his (as l

,

th o ught) di si n te re ste d ge n e ro si ty My s e rva n t w h o bo re this .

me ssa ge c ame b ack t e lli n g me tha t I wa s a lt o ge th e r wro ng;

,

that th e man h a d d e n i e d a n y such lib e ra l i n te n ti o n s ; and

tha t th e me an i n g o f thi s me ssag e was s im ply th a t I h ad not
s e n t e n o ugh Willi n g in all thin gs t o ma ke m y se l f a gre eable
. ,

I agai n se n t h im t h e mo n e y ha vin g a dd e d t o it so me article

,

o f trifli n g v alu e but much e st e e me d i n t h e c o u n try

,
Th e man .

wa s still di ssa ti sfi e d a n d re turn e d it a s e c o n d time with a

, ,

ra th e r i mp e rtin e n t me ssage a b o ut h i s b e i n g a gre a t mam-and

tha t a s such h e e xp e ct e d a gre a t pre se n t A lre ady tired of .

’
t h e fo o l s i mp o rtun ity I se n t h im h i s h o n e y a n d bre a d te lling
, ,

h i m w ith my r e sp e cts tha t I k n e w n o thi n g o f h im b ut from

, ,

h i s gi ft ; tha t h a d h e se n t me a fin e h o r se a s ilv e r mo unted ,

-

’
s hi e ld o r a li o n s ski n a s o th e r chi e fs h a d d o n e I shou
, ,
ld ,

h av e re turn e d h im a p re se n t fro m my o wn c o u n try o f pro

p o rt i o n a t e v a lu e ; but j udgi n g by h i s o ffe ri n g th a t h e was a

ra th e r p o o r p e a sa n t I h a d ch o se n a s I th o u ght t h e best
, , ,

ma n n e r o f re mu n e ra ti n g h im I mo re o v e r b e gge d that for

.

t h e futur e b o th h e a n d h i s pre sen ts might b e k e pt a s far as

c o n v e n i e n t fro m my n e ighb o urho o d I n thi s l ast ho wever .
, ,

h e did n o t o b e y me ; fo r th a t v e ry sa m e e v e n in g h e came
hi mse l f e n tre a ti n g me t o re c e iv e h i s gi ft a ssu ri n g m e that it
, ,

wa s a ll a mi st a k e a n d th a t h e sh o uld b e v e ry w e ll sa tisfied
,

with wha t I h a d a t fir st o ffe r e d h im I d e clin e d thi s a rrange .

me n t t e lli n g h im a s was th e fa ct tha t I h a d swo rn by the

, , ,

d e a th o f Sh eto u tha t I wo uld n o t r e c e iv e it : a t th e same

ti me I e xpre sse d t h e gr e a t e st fri e n d ship fo r h i m ; an d the
af fa ir e n d e d i n my a cc e pti n g a sma ll p a ir o f tw e e z e rs fo r ex
tra cti n g th o rn s a n d in h is c a rryi n g awa y as a pro o f o f my
, ,
 '
C H AP . XXVI I I . A N E CD O TE S OF CH A R A C TE R .
353

e s e e m an d
t l o ve a sma ll puf fer maclzésn uffb o x w ith l o o ki n g
, ,

g l a s s li d v a lu ,
e ad o r th e r e a,
b o ut s .

So me in struct i o n s which th e R o ya l Ge o gra phica l So c i e ty

fo rm e rly publi sh e d t o a ssi st trav e ll e rs by p o i n ti n g o ut o bj e ct s ,

mo st wo rthy o f the ir in quiri e s an d re mark s dire ct e d e sp e ci a l ,

n o ti c e t o re po rts o r fa ct s c o n n e ct e d w ith c an n i b ali sm On .

t h is po i n t I ha ve littl e t o say i n re sp e ct o f th e Abyssin ian s .

Wh a t fo llo ws i s all tha t I have e ve r he ard o n th e subj e ct .

A grea t la dy n o w livi n g in Go n d a r i s sa id t o us e e ith e r

, ,

t h e b l oo d o r fl e sh o f yo u n g childre n as me dicin e fo r a c o m

p l a i n t fro m w hich s h e s u ff e r s Thi s s t o ry i.s s o g e n e ra lly

b e li e v e d an d re p o rt e d all o ve r Abyssin i a th at I sh o uld fe a r
t h e re must b e a t l e as t so me fo u n d ati o n fo r it Se v e ral chil .

d re n are sa id t o ha ve b e e n mi ss in g fro m time to ti me ; but

so cl e v e rly we re th e y kid n a pp e d tha t su spici o n c o uld o n ly

s ugge st Wh a t h ad b e e n th e ir fa t e A t l e n gth a so ldi e r o f so me

.

n o te , livi n g n ea r to th e ho u se o f thi s la dy mi sse d h i s ,

d a ugh ter a little girl ab o ut six ye ars o ld

,
H e h a d l a st se e n .

h e r playi n g with so me o th e r childre n an d o n i n quiri n g o f , ,

t h e m fo un d th at sh e h ad b e e n e n tice d away fro m th e m i n t o

,

t h e suspe ct e d h o u se I n h i s l o ve fo r th e child fo rge tti n g th e

.
,

i n flue n ce o f th e pro pri e tr e ss wh o wa s a me mb e r o f th e gr e a t e s t

,

fa mily in th e lan d th e fa th e r burst o p e n th e d o o r an d rush

, , ,

i n g in drew h i s swo rd an d thre a te n e d th e fe mal e s wh o m h e

, ,

m e t th a t he wo ul d kill th e m if h i s child we re n o t pro duc e d .

A fte r a ti me sh e was bro ught to h im fr o m an i n n e r ro o m .

Th e wo man wh o re sto re d h e r t o h i m d e cla re d that sh e h a d

s t raye d in o f h e r o wn a cco rd an d a ffe cte d gre a t a st o n i sh ,

me n t at hi s h as te a n d p assi o n askin g wha t h e fe a re d fo r th e ,

i l S h e h w v r i t a rs an d th e gr e a te st a l a rm d e cl a re d
g r . o e e, n e , ,

t h a t sh e ha d b e e n hu n g up by t h e l e gs .

Th i s is o n e way in which I have h e a rd th e st o ry re l a t e d

.

wh il e a n o th e r in fo rman t a ssure d me tha t th e man h a d ru sh e d

i n an d fo u n d th e child actu ally han gi n g an d se n se l e ss Th e
,
.

p pe o le o f t h e c o u n try a ss e rt th a t th e o b j e ct o f th e h a n gi n g

was t o c o lle ct th e bl o o d which wa s i n te n d e d to b e use d,

me d i ci nally .

A man wh o h ad b ee n ta k e n fo r ro bb e ry a n d murd e r c o n
3 54 LIFE IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . x xv rn .

fe sse d pr,
e vi o u s t o h i s e x e cu t i o n th a t h e h a d ,
m urd e re d at

i
d ffe e nr t ti m e s n i n e m e n an d a n u n an d h a d t a s t
,
e d t h e fl esh
o f o n e o f t h e m e n H i s .b o dy w as r e fu s e d b uri a l a n d w as
,

th ro wn o ut t o th e wild b e a st s .

A se rvan t o f mi n e re l a te d t o me tha t tw o s o ldi e rs came one

e ve n i n g t o h is c o u n try (a pro vin c e i n Am hara ) a n d s t o l e two

sma ll childr e n an d put th e m i n t o s a ck s

,
A l a d wh o was .

n e a r th e m se e i n g thi s ra n i n t o th e vill age a n d r e l a t e d what

, , ,

h a d h a pp e n e d t o h i s c o mra d e s Th e so ldi e rs w e re p ursued

. ,

an d o wi n g t o th e ir l o a d s wo uld h a v e b e e n o v e rta k e n had

, , ,

the y n o t p e rce ivi n g th e ir dan ge r dro pp e d th e ir b o o ty sacks

, , ,

a n d all an d ma d e o fl a s quickly a s p o ssibl e I t i s suppo sed

'

.
,

that th e childre n we re i n te n d e d as me dici n e fo r Ma ro War

re yn ia a Ga ll a by o rigi n
,
an d chi e f i n t h e n e ighb o urhood
,

w h e re th e a tt e mpt e d ro bb e ry t o o k pl a c e a n d w h o w as suffer ,

i n g fro m dys e n t e ry .

F o r t h e Abyssi n ia n s I mu st say th a t n e ith e r t h e fo rme r nor

t h e l a tt e r o f the se ta l e s a ffe ct th e ir ch a ra ct e r a t all ; 35 ,
tho ugh n o w li v i n g an d rulin g in Abyssi n i a t h e family o f Ras ,

G o u x a t o w
,
hich b o th t h e l a dy ( w h o s e n a m e by t h e w a y is

Go ux a H e rrh t) a n d th e chi e fta i n Maro b e l o n g i s n o t Ab yssi ,

~

n i a n but i mp o rt e d fro m a Ga ll a c o u n t ry c a ll e d Y e dj
,
o
,
.

So me p e o pl e st a t e th a t th e fl e sh o f th e se littl e v i c tims is
n o t e a t e n it se l f by th e p a ti e n t but i s u s e d a s fo o d fo r sheep
, ,

wh o se fl e sh thu s fa tt e n e d b e c o me s m e dici n a l
, ,
Th e a ccounts .

o f t h e ma n n e r i n w hich t h e h e rbivo ro u s a n i m a l i s i n d uced to

p a rta ke o f such un n a tural di e t a re two So m e sa y th at the .

’
fl e sh i s dri e d a n d p o wd e re d an d th e n mixe d w ith t h e sheeps
,

o rdi n a ry fo o d w hil e o th e rs say th a t th e p o o r cr e ature s are

cra mme d with huma n fl e sh a s we cram turk e y s A child led . ,

thre e ti me s ro un d a wo man wh o i s tro ubl e d wi t h th e flux ,

a n d th e n butch e re d i s I h a v e b e e n t o ld
, ,
c o n sid e re d a sure ,

re me dy .

A s r e ga rd s th e truth o f th e s e st o ri e s o f c ourse n o one can ,

v o uch fo r it ; but o f t h e b b i l i t f uch xtr rdi r “!

p r o a y o s e a o n a y
me di e s b e i n g e mpl o y e d a n d e v e n c o n side r e d e fficacibus I
‘

,
,

ca n n o t d o ubt h a vin g my se lf wi tn e sse d ma n y practice s e qual]

, !
a b surd I b e li e ve th e re i s n o qu e sti o n that i n so me par
. tW " -
35 6 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXVI II .

o f th e wo rld th an th e mo re pe n e tratin g st ill small vo ice of

co n sci e n ce .

1
«

Thu s much I ha ve re lat e d as i llu stra ti n g t h e ch a racter of

t h e A by ssi n ia n s .

”
Why h ave yo u n o t sa id an yt hi n g o n i t s go o d p o in ts !
may b e aske d I an swe r, b e ca u se an e cd o te s o f b e n e vo l ence
.
,

j u sti ce fid e lity & c a re rare ly i n te re sti n g e n o ugh either

, , .
,

t o b e co me t o pics o f c o n v e rsa ti o n w h e re the y h a pp e n or to ,

a mu se an En gli sh public .

O n e mo re re ma rk O n re co n sid e ri n g t hi s chapter I
.
,

fin d th a t with th e e xce ptio n o f was sa n n e arly all the

, ,

h e ro e s o f th e ab o ve a n e cd o te s are e ith e r A mharas o r Gallas;

an d thi s aga i n th o ugh it sp ea k s v e ry littl e i n favour of
,

my ha vi n g stuck t o my subj e ct o f d e scri b in g Tigré and

it s p e o pl e sp e ak s highl y o f th e n atio n I i n t en d e d to
,

scrib e .
 x x rx . GO VE R N M E N T, LA WS ,
(lac .
357

CHAPTER XXI X .

GO VE RN ME N T, LA WS , 67 °
C.

E in Abyssi n i a I c o ll e ct e d a go o d d ea l o f i n fo rma ti o n
e s e i n t e re sti n g subj e ct s : my p ap e rs o n th e m h o we v e r , ,

d i n th e l o ss I su sta i n e d ; an d fro m th e ir b e in g o f ,

are n o t s o e a sily re me mb e re d a s c e r e mo n i e s which o n e

i t n e ss e d an d such lik e stri ki n g o ccurre n ce s my me mo ry

,
-
,

h e fe w sca n ty n o t e s which I re ta i n e d h ave as si st e d me

J e rh a ps in thi s th a n i n an o th e r p a rt o f t h e w o rk
y ,

5 e x c e pti n g ge o graphy .

1e e d n o t e n t e r much i n t o th e ge n e ral divi si o n s o f

si n i a .Th e se p articula rs ha v e b e e n bro ught b e fo re
ub l i c by o th e r writ e rs an d e ve n may h ave b e e n gl e a n e d
,

m e o f tho se wh o have pl o dd e d thu s far thro ugh th e se

re s .

fi c e it the n t o say that th e fo rme rly vast e mpire o f

, , ,

Op i a wh o se in flu e n ce e xt e n d e d fro m Se nn aa r an d Tak a
,

wa rd t o th e o th e r sid e o f th e Ga lla c o un tri e s (n o o n e ,

i e v e k n o ws e xa ctly h o w far) an d fro m n e arly t h e

, ,

N il e t o t h e R e d Se a i n l o n gitud e c o n si st s n o w o f ,

al i n d e p e n d e n t kin gdo ms o r pri n cip aliti e s Three .

le se may b e ca ll e d Aby ssi n i an b e i n g i n habite d fo r

,

n o s t p a rt by C hri sti an s Th e first i s th e Amhara

.

:ry lyi n g we st o f th e Tacc a z y a n d e xt e n di n g fro m th a t

, ,

t o t h e i n d e p e n d e n t Sh a n gall a o r n e gro trib e s a n d fro m ,

ro uti e rs o f t h e Ga ll a c o u n try fo rme d by t h e A bb ai o r

,

N il e which th e re run s in a we s te rly dire cti o n t o th e

, ,

ra a t o rre n t which fo rm s a so rt o f b o u n d a ry b e twe e n

,

un hara pr o vi n c e s an d th o se o f so me A rab tribe s b e

ng t o t h e fo rme r ki n gd o m o f Se n n aa r n o w c o n qu e re d ,
35 8 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . xxi x

by th e Turk s an d c o n sid e re d a s a pro vin c e un d e r the

,

Pa sha lik o f Egypt .

Th e se co n d A byssi n i an co u n try i s ca ll e d Tigre a lth o ugh , ,

lik e i t s n e ighb o urs it ta k e s thi s n ame fro m a sm a ll pro vince

,

i n th e ki n gd o m which al o n e i s pro p e rly s o c a ll e d

,
Tigre is .

c o n tiguo u s t o t h e Amhara co un try lyi n g to t h e e as t o f it , ,

an d divid e d fro m it by t h e riv e r Ta c c a z y I t s n atural .

e a st e rn fro n ti e r i s t h e R e d Se a To th e n o rth it i s se pa rated

.

fro m t h e N ubi an o r Se n n ary pro vi n c e s by a n u mb e r o f small

—
i n d e p e n d e n t trib e s as t h e Baza s B id éle s H a b h ab s B o ghos
, , , , ,

Tsada C o n stan s & c whil e o n th e so uth a re t h e A z o b o and

, .

o th e r G a ll a trib e s .

Th e third c o u n try is call e d Sh o a a n d i s e n tire ly d e ta ched

,

fro m t h e o th e r t wo lyi n g t o t h e so u th o f t h e m an d being

, ,

se p a ra t e d fro m th e m by th e A z o b o s Wo l lo s an d o ther , ,

Ga lla s b e fo re me n ti o n e d It is surro un d e d o n all sid e s by

.

mo re o r l e ss in d e p e n d e n t trib e s — a s th e A d a i e l s So maulis
, , ,

& c t o th e e a stwa rd an d t h e Ga llas to t h e w e st an d south

.
, ,

w e st .

Th e l an gu age o f Tigre re se mbli n g v e ry n e a rly th e Giz or

an ci e n t E thi o pi an o f which it i s in fa ct a dia l e ct would
, , , ,

l e a d o n e t o suppo se tha t it i s th e mo st an ci e n t a n d p e rhaps ,

th e o ri gi n a l sp o k e n l a n gu age o f th e c o u n t ry Th e p e o ple .

o f Sh o a a n d t h e A mhara s use i n c o mmo n th e Amharic

l a n guage which wo uld a pp e a r to b e o f mo r e re c e n t date
, ,

ha vi n g o n ly a fe w ro o ts fro m th e Gi z .

Th e re ma i n d e r o f wha t was I E th i o pi a i s m a d e up o f the

Galla a n d n e gro trib e s a b o ve me n ti o n e d .

Th e se may b e c o n sid e re d a s t h e n a t ura l ge o graphical

divi si o n s o f th e c o u n try an d a l so as th o se mo st ge n e rally
,

a d o pt e d i n c o mmo n c o n v e r sa ti o n Pro p e rly sp e a king all .

,

tha t I h ave me n ti o n e d a s we st o f th e Tac ca z y o ught n ot to

b e re ga rd e d a s A mhara ; fo r w e h a v e th e pro vi n c e s fo rmerly
go ve rn e d by th e chi e f o f Simye n a n d a t that ti me d e p e ndent
,

o n t h e rul e r o f t h e A mh ara s but n o w s i n ce t h e petty ,

c hi e fta i n s o f Sim e n h a v e a dd e d th e ki n gd o m o f Tigre to

y
th e ir go v e rn me n t un d e r th e rul e o f Oubi th e ir o riginal
, ,

p o sse ssi o n s ha ve o f c o urse b e co me p o liti ca l ly sp eaking, ,

3 60 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXIX .

chi e fs o f Agami Se llo a Ago w & c b e a t t h e d rums as

, , ,
.
,

l o ud a s an y o n e an d ho ld as high a pl a c e e ithe r in feast

,

o r fi e ld
.

I n sp e aki n g o f th e se chi e fs it i s u su a l to pre fi x th e name

o f th e ir pro vi n c e t o th e ir o wn a s a di s t i n ct i o n thus ,
’ ’
Sh o u m A gami We ld I n c h ael (chi e f o f A ga mi We ld In
cha el ) S ho u m Se llo a R e mb a & c N o w a n o t h e r l esser , .

chi e fta in wo uld b e t e rme d a s simple Mr We l d o Se las sy or .

,

w h a te ve r h i s n a me might b e ; an d if it we re th o ught n e cas

sa ry i n sp e a ki n g o f h i m t o e xpl a i n th at h e w as c h i e f o f such

a c o u n try it wo uld b e d o n e thu s

,
— Mr So a n d so C hief of .
- -
,

A n ticha n 810 , .

’
A s fo r Sh o um Agami We ld I n ch ae l h e was sup e rio r to ,

mo st D ejasma tc h e s fo r h e wa s so n o f Sa b a ga rdi s King

, ,

o f Tigre .

The se pro vi n c e s a re subdivid e d in to l e s se r o n es whose ,

go v e rn o rs are d e pe n d e n t o n t h e gre a t chie fs an d ho ld rank ,

a cc o rdi n g t o th e siz e o f th e ir t e rrit o ry A t t h e present .

ti me th e re are o n ly se v e n te e n addy n e ga ri t s re maining

i n Tigre t h e re st h ave b e e n cut up an d a pp o rti o n e d out to
so ldi e rs .

”
So me o f th e small e r sh o umat a re ca ll e d a ddy amb ilta
“ “
,

or cu n d a acco rdin g t o which o f th e t wo k in d s o f music

”
,

th e ir chi e f h a s a right : o r farrasse yn i a if th e y b e given up ,

”
t o a p arce l o f so ldi e rs A fe w a re ca ll e d
. wai z e ro and ,

b e lo n g to th e an ci e n t n o bility o f th e c o u n try .

Whe n th e K i n g pre se n ts a man t o a go v e rn me n t the gift ,

i s pro cl a ime d by o waje o r be a ti n g o f dru m s i n t h e camp

”
, ,

a n d a l so i n th e ma rk e t pl a c e o f t h e ca pita l
-
F o r these .

purp o se s a s we ll as fo r a n y o the r pro cla m a ti o n s a b ig

, ,

drum i s ke pt e xpre ssly in e a ch o f th e se pla c e s I f the gift .

b e o f a l arge pro vi n c e such as we h a ve j u s t d e sc rib ed the

, ,

ce re mo n y o f pro cl ama ti o n wo uld b e so me thi n g a s fo llows .

Th e dru mme r ha vi n g c o ll e ct e d a cro wd by s t riking his

,

i n stru me n t a n d wavi n g a stick o r sh e e p skin o v e r hi s head

, ,
'
d e cla re s in a l o ud v o ice tha t h e h a s re c e iv e d t h e Kings .

o rd e r s t o pro cl a i m th e gi ft o f s uch an d such a c o un t ry from ,

such a pl ac e t o such a n o th e r pl a c e (n a mi n g t h e b o u n daries) ,

C H A R x x rx
. . GO VE R N M E N T, LA WS , b e. 3 6 1

to M r Such . t o b e h e ld by h i m t o i t s chi e f with

-
a-o h e ,
!
,

right t o go ve rn it e xe rci se h i s auth o rity an d pun i sh

—
, ,

o ffe n d e rs by i mp ri so n me n t a n d flo ggin g cuttin g o fl th e

'

h an d o r fee t an d d e a th b e in g pro p e rly sp e aki n g re fe rre d

, , ,

t o O ubi .

Th e ta x e s re quire d by Oubi are o f two kin d s o n e , ,

we rky o f r ea dy mo n e y (th at i s t o say pi e c e s o f

”
ca ll e d , ,

c lo t h which pa ss fo r c o i n age o r th e ir va lu e i n d o ll a rs) an d

, ,
”
t h e o th e r ca ll e d ,
fe ssassy o f c o rn B e sid e s th e se t h e
,
.
,

chi e fta i n pays an n u ally a mash o mia o r ackn o wl e dgme n t

”
,

wh ich i s a gift o f ca ttl e ho n e y butte r a rms o r an yth in g

, , , ,

e l s e o f va lu e a s a so rt o f t e n ure by which h e h o ld s h i s
,

lan d .

E ve ry pro vi n ce , wh e th e r gre a t o r sma ll , i s subdivid e d

in t o p aris he s o r v illage s, o ve r e a ch o f which i s a ch ikka
o r ta xga th e re r N o w, t o sh o w h o w th e se me n a s we ll a s
.

th e ir mas t e rs supp o rt the ms e lve s fro m th e pro vi n c e , we wi ll

suppo se t ha t a t ax o f a th o u san d cl o th s i s t o b e rai se d fro m

a d i s tri ct c o n ta i n in g t e n e qu a lly siz e d villa ge s O f c o urse

-
.

e a ch chi kka wo uld h ave t o pro duc e a hun dre d B y .

c l e v e rly a rran gi n g h i s a cc o u n t s a n d th e di stributi o n o f t h e

t ri bute , th e ta xgath e re r, i n li e u o f h i s pro p e r n umb e r, c o ll e ct s

’
h a p s a hu n dre d an d fi fty O f th e e xtr a fifty, a li o n s
p e r .

s ha r e , sa y thirty , i s put asid e fo r th e chi e f, w hil e th e re

ma i n in g t we n ty are k e pt by th e chikka an d t o quo tatary
“ ”

o r a cc o un ta n t , a s th e ir re mu n e ra ti o n Th e chi e f wo uld thu s.

g a i n by t hi s littl e tra n sacti o n thre e hu n dre d pi e c e s o f cl o th .

Similarly h e ga in s o n th e co rn tribute a n d ma sh bmi a ”

.

Th is la tt e r i s co ll e cte d i n qu an titi e s fro m th e p e o ple , ab o ut

St Jo h n s Day an d a t Ma sc al
’
. Wh e n t h e chi e f p ays h i s
.

an n ual v i sit o f duty t o t h e Ki n g h e ca rri e s with h i m wh a t h e

h as s elect e d fro m th e mass, an d l e av e s t h e re ma in d e r b e hi n d

in hi s priv a te sto re .

Th e go v e rn o rs o f pro vi n c e s have a l so a c e rta in qua n tity

o f t h e c ul t iva bl e l an d o f e a ch p a ri sh , which fro m time i m
me mo ri al h a s b e e n se t a p art fo r the ir use Thi s l an d a .

v e rn o r may e mpl o y a t h i s pl e a sure ; e ith e r h e may k e e p

g o

i t in h i s o wn h an d s, o r h e may l e t it I f h e pre fe r t h e .
3 6 2 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP XXIX
. .

fo rme r, the n h e h as a right t o c a ll up o n th e p e o ple for

’
t h e ir l ab o ur ; h e can de man d o f th e m o n e d a y s wo rk at
th e cl e a ri n g a n d pl o ughi n g o n e day fo r s o wi n g t wo for , ,

c l e a ri n g t h e cro p o f we e d s, an d two fo r ga th e ri n g in the

h a rve s t .

Wh e n I sp e a k o f l e t tin g th e lan d I do n o t m e an e xactly ,

a ft e r o ur man n e r o f re c e ivin g a fix e d r e n t ; fo r t h o ugh this

i s oc cas i o n ally pra ct i se d it i s mo re co mmo n fo r th e o wner

,

o f t h e la n d t o re c e iv e a pro p o rti o n ( so me ti m e s h a l f) o f the

cro p .

’
Thi s right o f chie f s lan d i s an o th e r th o ugh in direct, ,

s o urc e o f ga in t o t h e hu n gry ch ikka fo r if t h e villagers

o wn i n g l an d d o n o t ta k e ca r e t o pr o piti a t e h i m with an

o cca si o n a l gift h e will d e cl a re th a t th e y h a v e n o right to

,

th e ir l an d an d pro ve th o ugh fal se ly th a t it i s p a rt o f what

, , ,

rightfully b e lo n gs t o h is mast e r N o r i s thi s by an y means .

di fficult to man age ; fo r in thi s co un try t h e re are n o title

d e e d s to sho w an d fe w p e o pl e wo uld like t o b e a r witness
,
’
a ga i n st th e ir chi e f s i n te re st .

Th e chi e f ga in s al so by Dain ye t o r fi n e s fo r ce rta in ,

o ffe n c e s : fo r i n sta n c e a bl o w o r bl o o d sh e d
, I f a man be .

kille d in a qua rre l an d th e p arti e s agre e t o re c e ive payment

,
’
i n st e a d o f th e slaye r s blo o d ha lf o f t h e ra n so m go e s into ,
’
t h e chi e f s p o ck e t .

Thi s fi n i n g syste m is fre qu e n tly c o n ve rt e d by b ad men

e sp e ci a lly i n tro ubl e d time s wh e n th e thr o n e i s u n stab le , ,

an d me n do m —
uch as th e y pl e se i n t o a me a n s o f cruel
a

e xt o rti o n F o r i n sta n c e a p e a sa n t wh o i s s upp o se d to be

.
, ,

we althy i s o n so me pre t e xt t ak e n an d b o u n d
, , A sum is , .

th e n fix e d fo r h i s lib e rty a n d th e iro n bra c e l e t i s kn ocked

,

—
tighte r an d tighte r e ve ry da y like o ur b o o t o f fo rme r times
—till it is a ctually drive n i n to th e arm an d th e han d dies , .

Th e p o o r pri so n e r wh o p e rha p s h a s n o me a n s h a vi ng paid

, ,

up a ll tha t h e p o sse sse d an d co lle cte d a s m uch as h e can

,

fro m t h e ge n e ro sity o f h i s fri e n d s re ma i n s thu s t o rtured till , ,

chan c e chan ge o f go v e rn me n t o r d e ath lib e ra t e s hi m

,
!
, .

I h av e me n ti o n e d th e syste m in so me fo rme r ch a pt e r, a n d cited the

cas e o f yo ung J
o hn C o ffi n , so n o f a co un t ryma n o f o urs, w h o died in
 6
3 4 LI F E I N A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXIX .

in the se ma tters i s, tha t a mal e fa cto r ha s o n ly t o cro ss the

fro n ti e r an d ta ke re fuge in an o th e r c o un try t o b e sa fe from
th e pursuit o f ju stic e N a y, mo re : th e r e are ma ny pro
.

’
vin c e s u n d e r Oub i s rul e which , fro m b e i n g di s t a n t o r rather

u n safe , are lit tl e atte n de d t o These a re aga i n places of

.

’
re fuge fo r e v ildoe rs . I n fact , Oub i s p o lic e re gula ti o ns (to
g iv e th e E u ro p e an d e sign a ti o n , th o ugh n o such a thin
g as
p o lice e xi sts) may b e said to b e co n fin e d t o th e l imi ts o f the
g r e a t r o a d s,
as m an y a ro bb e ry ,
o r e v e n murd e r , ma y b e and

i s c o mmitt e d in t h e l e ss fre qu e n t e d di s tri c ts wi t h o ut his ever

he ari n g o f it Th e o n ly chan ce o f th e se o ffe n c e s co mi ng to
.

’
light d e p e n d s up o n t h e inj ure d p e rso n s s ta ti o n i n life If .

h e have re la ti o n s o f i nflu e n c e th e y will ma k e so m e e x e rtions

i n pursuin g th e aggre sso r ; but if, o n th e c o n t rary, he be
p o o r o r a stran ge r in th e pro vin ce, havin g n o pro te c ti on but
t h e l aws t o l o o k t o , h e may b e murd e re d wi th i m puni ty, and
n o o n e will ca re to i n qui re wh o did it .

’
O n e i n stan c e o f Oub i s me th o d o f d e al i n g j us t ic e struck
me a s so o rigi n al that I c o uld n o t h e lp n o ti n g it d o wn In .

so me p a rts o f th e c o u n try it i s a v e ry c o mmo n p ractice,

e sp e ci ally a mo n g t h e M o h amme d an s, t o s t e a l a wa y children

an d se ll th e m as sl a v e s a t M a ssawa O n c e a m a n o f that
.

re ligio n e n tic e d away a yo un g wo man ab o ut s ixt e e n years of

age , pre t e n din g t o hire h e r a s a se rvan t a n d o ffe ri n g her
,

h igh wage s t o i n duc e h e r t o fo ll o w him o n h i s tri p s to the

co a st an d b a ck Sh e e n t e re d hi s se rvic e a n d t o lull sus
.
, ,

i c i o n h e t o o k h e r o n e o r two s h o rt j o urn e y s a n d b ro u ht
p , g
h e r sa fe ly b a ck with h im With thi s b o t h sh e an d h e r fii ends
.

we re p e rfe ctly c o n t e n t e d e sp e ci a lly s in c e fro m t i me to time

,

t h e man ma d e h e r h an d so me a dvan ce s o f mo n e y o n account

o f h e r wage s . At last h e s ta rt e d fo r th e c o as t ta kin g her ,

with h im an d tre a ti n g h e r as u su al o n th e ro a d
, On his .

a rriva l th e re h o we ve r h e so ld h e r t o a sl a v e me rch a n t and

, ,
-
,

th e n re turn e d t o an o the r p a rt o f Aby ssi n ia Th e province .

’
wh e re th e girl s fri e n d s re sid e d was i n a rat h e r r e mo te part
o f t h e c o u n try an d t h e fe ll o w h a d h o p e d th a t b e i n g oo r
, p ,

a n d o b scur e th e y wo uld n o t thi n k o f se e ki n g fo r h i m o r her

,

a t s uch a di stan c e . I n thi s h o we ve r, h e w a s mistaken

, .
. C HAP . XXI X . G O VE RN ME N T, L A WS b
,
e . 6
3 5

W e e k s a n d mo n t hs e l ap si n g with o ut an y tidi n gs o f th e
mas t e r o r se rvan t rea chin g h e r fri e n d s the y se t ab o ut ma kin g
,

i n quiri e s re sp e cti n g the m an d at la st ga i n e d sufli c i e n t in

,

fo rma ti o n a t Massawa t o l e ad th e m t o su sp e ct wh a t h a d
b e c o me o f t h e girl an d also tha t th e M o hamme d an h ad
re tur n e d i n t o A byss i n ia .

’
It ha pp e n e d that o n e o f t h e girl s u n cl e s was a so ldie r ,

wh o h avin g di sti n guis he d hi mse lf in so me ma n n e r h ad b e e n

, ,

ra i se d by th e Ki n g t o a small go v e rn me n t an d t o t h e c o m

man d o f a few me n .Th e di st ra cte d p are n t s imme di a t e ly

h a d re c o urse t o t hi s re l a ti o n wh o se i mp o rt an c e an d grea t
,

n e ss w e re d o ub tle ss magn ifi e d i n th e ir e sti ma ti o n pro p o r

ti o n a lly t o th e ir o wn in sign ifica n c e Th e so ldi e r e n t e re d

.

i n to th e ma tt e r with t h e utmo st d e te rmi n a ti o n an d h avi n g , ,

a pp e a l e d t o Oubi o bta i n e d a pro mi se th a t ju stic e sh o uld b e

,

d o n e h im . A cco rdi n gly th e d e lin que n t hi ms e l f h a vi n g go t

,

o ut o f th e way Oubi su mmo n e d t h e pri n cip al me mb e r s o f

,

hi s family an d t h e chi e f me n amo n g th e M o h amme da n s an d ,

o rd e re d th e m t o re s t o re th e wo man t o h e r fri e n d s Th e y .

re pli e d by aski n g h o w th a t was p o ssibl e se e i n g th a t sh e h a d

,

b e e n so ld o n th e co a st an d th a t a l o n g ti me h avi n g e l a p se d
, , ,

sh e h a d pro bably b e e n l o n g si n c e re so ld i n Arabi a o r e v e n ,

i n E gypt .

O ub i cut th e ma tte r sh o rt by t e llin g th e m th a t h e kn e w

n o t h in g e i t h e r o f p o ssibiliti e s o r i mp o ssibil it e s but th a t t h e ,

g ir l m u st b e fo u n d : mo r e o v e r th a t a s
,
i n h i s
,
mi nd one

C h ristian subj e ct wa s wo rth a n y n umb e r o f Mu ssul me n an d ,

t h a t th i s o n e b e in g a fe mal e might h av e i n cre a se d th e pOpu

la ti o n by a n umb e r u n kn o wn o f littl e C hri sti an s a n d c o n ,

si d e rin g as h e did th a t thi s pra ctic e a mo n g th o se o f th e ir

ra ce was n o thi n g but an a tt e mpt a t di mi n i shi n g t h e pro p o r

t i o n o f tru e b e li e ve rs amo n g h i s subj e ct s h e did n o t ch o o se

,

t o t re a t th e pre se n t case as th a t o f an i n divi du a l cri me but ,

as par t o f a re ligi o u s c o n spira cy O n thi s a cc o u n t h e

.

t h o ught himse l f as a C hri sti a n ju sti fie d i n rai si n g a c o un t e r

l o t t o n e utra liz e th e ir d e sign s aga i n st h i s fa ith S o he
p ,
.

fix e d a t ime ( I b e li e v e a mo n th) whe re i n th e y we re t o fin d

h e r o ut, e ve n if sh e we re at th e b o tt o m o f th e se a ; t e lli n g
3 66 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . xxi x .

th e m that if at th e e xpira tio n o f th e ti me th e y h a d failed

—
, ,

t wo o f th e pri n cip a l m e n o f th e ir r e ligi o n s h o ul d dei and ,

so o n e v e ry succ e e din g mo n th un til e ith e r t h e l o s t o n e were

, ,

fo u n d o r th e ir accurse d ra ce we re e xti n ct i n h is d o rn i n io ns .

’
The y kn o wi n g tha t Oub i s wo rd wa s lik e t h e law o f the
,

M e d e s an d P e rsian s s tirre d the mse lve s in t h e ma tt e r and in

, ,

a sh o rt ti me a c o n sid e ra bl e sum o f mo n e y w as c o ll ected ,

a n d p e rso n s w e re sc att e re d i n e v e ry dire c ti o n i n s e arch of

th e girl Sh e was trac e d t o J e dd a but it w as n o t without

.

g r e a t di fi
f culty an d e v e n I b e li e v e t h e i n t e rfe r e n c e o f the
,

Turki sh Go v e rn o r that h er th e n o wn e r c o uld b e i n duced to

,

p art with h e r at ab o ut fo ur times as much as s h e h ad cost

,

him . Th e n e ws o f h e r ha vi n g b e en fo u n d a n d re purchased
ar riv e d e ith e r ju st in ti me t o sa ve th e live s o f th e fi rs t co uple

o f me n o r ju st aft e r th e ir d e a t h ; I fo rge t w hich

, .

A s fo r th e l aws o f t h e c o u n try th e y are fo r th e mo st part ,

fo rme d o n th e ba si s o f th e o ld M o sa ic di s p e n s a ti o n “
An .

e ye fo r an e ye an d a t o o th fo r a to o th i s fo ll o we d n early
—
,

t o th e l e tte r so much so th a t as we h a v e b e fo re sa id if a
, , , ,

ma n kill an o th e r th e murd e re r mu st b e put to d e a th by the

,

n e a r e st re la t iv e s o f th e d e c e as e d with pr e c i s e ly th e same ,

kin d o f we ap o n as tha t wi th whi ch h e kille d hi s vi cti m

To e xe mplify thi s cu sto m z— Two littl e b o y s w e re playing
i n th e wo o d s n e a r a village Wan d e ri n g ab o ut th e y ch an ced
.

”
t o se e a tre e ca ll e d o wl e h o n wh o se bran che s was a
,

quan tity o f rip e wild fiui t Th e fruit is n o t ve ry d e licious

'

.
,

n o t mo re so th a n th e h ip s a n d h aws fo u n d o n o ur h edges ;

t a o n e wh o ca n re me mb e r th e pl eas ure w ith w hich in

y e n y
h i s b o yi sh d ay s th e se b e rri e s we re c o ll e cte d a n d ea te n will ,

e xcu se o ur y o u n g h e ro e s wh e n I r e lat e h o w h a v i n g l o oked ,

”
up o n th e fruit th e y lo n ge d fo r it B ut th o ugh t h e o wleh
, .

i s n o t u su ally o f v e ry l a rge gro wt h still t h e l o w e s t b ranches ,

we re a b o v e th e ir re a ch To cli mb th e tre e wa s a n a rduous

.

ta sk fo r the se childre n we re but o f th e age s o f e ight and

,

fiv e . Th e t e mpta ti o n ho we ve r pro ve d s up e ri o r to the

, ,

o b s ta cl e s a n d th e e ld e r b o y with so me di ffic ul t y succee ded

,

i n re a chin g th e d e sire d o bj e ct High e r a n d higher he

.

mo u nt e d, till at l ast h e sto o d o n a b o ugh fro m which he

3 68 LI F E AN A B YS S I N I A . C H A P XXIX
. .

favo ur o f its
cre dibility i s t ha t I h e ard it re l a t e d by a highly
,

resp e cta bl e in dividual i n a l arge p a rty wh e re I w as the only

, ,

man n o t an Aby ssi n ian an d th e o n ly p e rs o n wh o appe ared

,

t o c o n sid e r it a s a t all impro b abl e .

Th e pu n i sh me n t fo r th e ft va ri e s a cco rdi n g t o t h e circum

s ta n c e s u n d e r which t h e o ffe n c e may b e c o mm itt e d So me .

t h e ft s such a s sa cril e gi o u s o n e s are d e e me d w o rth y o fd eath

, , ,

o r a mputa ti o n o f t h e han ds o r fe e t ; w hil e o th e rs o f an ,

o rdi n ary ki n d are c o n sid e r e d as sufli c i e n tl y e xpi a t e d by im

,

priso n me n t o r a so u n d fl o ggi n g This la tt e r i s a se vere .

pun i shme n t an d fro m th e man n e r in wh ich it i s a d mi n istered

,

a pp e a rs t o me t o b e a v e ry e ffe c t ua l o n e Th e whi p use d is .

such a s c o mmo n ly se rve s fo r urgi n g th e pl o ugh o x e n in their

la b o ur It i s e n o rmo u sly l o n g an d h eav y a n d re j o ices in

.
,

th e chara cte ri stic so briqu e t o f th e gira ffe Th e first .

s tro k e fro m thi s flage lla t o r if we ll a ppli e d wi l l o ft e n draw

, ,

bl o o d e ve n if it d o n o t co mpl e t e ly cut o ut a pi e c e o f skin

,
.

Th e mo d e o f u si n g it o n cri mi n a l s will b e se e n fro m the

fo ll o wi n g sto ry
Duri n g th e ab se n c e o f Dejatch Oubi o n a wa r e xp e diti on ,

a man ro bb e d a p o o r wo man o n th e ro a d o f s o m e pi e ces of

c o tto n cl o th such as are u se d fo r mo n e y Sh e ra n to wards

, .

t h e n e a re st villa ge c ryi n g o ut fo r h e lp a n d a t l as t i n duced

, ,

so me o f t h e p e o pl e t o pursu e t h e ro bb e r Th e y ca ugh t him ; .

a n d th e pi e c e s o f cl o th fo u n d o n h i m b e i n g o f t h e n umber ,

a n d qu a lity d e scrib e d by h e r we re sufli c i e n t pr o o f o f the ,

truth o f h e r a ccu sa ti o n t o in duce the m t o se n d h i m b o un d to

wassan wh o was a ctin g as go ve rn o r o f th e c o un try during
,
’
h i s ma ste r s ab se n c e Wit n e sse s we re ca ll e d wh o id e n tified
.
,
’
t h e cl o th a s th e wo ma n s pro p e rty an d th e thi e f b e i n g con ,

v ic t e d o f th e o ffe n c e wa s s e n t e n c e d to b e publicly whipped

,

Sa turda y b e i n g mark e t d a y was fix e d up o n fo r t h e e xecu

,
-
,

ti o n o f h i s se n t e n c e a s o n tha t day man y p e o ple wo uld be

,

c o lle cte d t o ge the r Th e culprit was bro ught in to t h e market

.

pl a c e a n d stripp e d a ll but h i s i n e xpre ssibl e s A man on

, , .

e a ch sid e h e ld h i m by a l o n g c o rd ti e d t o h i s h a n d s while , ,

a n o th e r bran di shi n g th e fo rmid abl e giraffe walked be

,
“
,

h i n d h im I n thi s pro c e ssi o n h e was l e d a b o ut a mo ng the

.
Cm . xx rx G O VE RN ME N T, LA W5 ,
m . 6
3 9

p eo ple an d fo rc e d t o e xcla im aft e r e ve ry blo w which fe ll

, ,

wi th fearful fo rce an d at re gula r i n t e rval s All ye wh o se e ,

me t hu s pro fit by my e xa mpl e
,

Th e fo ll o win g is an in s tan c e o f sa crile ge an d i t s pu n ish

men t . Three me n e n te re d a church fo r th e purp o se o f
plun d e rin g it Two o f the m purl o i n e d th e i n ce n se b o wl s
.
-
,

wh i l e t h e thi rd appro pria te d to hi mse l f so me go ld o rn ame n t s

fro m a pi ct ure re pre se n tin g th e M a d o n n a an d C hild Th e .

t ri n ke ts w e re a tta che d t o th e n e ck o f t h e i n fan t Sa vi o ur a n d ,

t o th e bre as t h ea d an d a rms o f th e Virgin

, ,
P art o f th e se .

s to len articl e s we re giv e n by th e thi e f t o a wo ma n o f t h e

t o wn an d sh e i n ca u ti o u sly al l o we d th e m t o b e se e n by so me
,

o f h e r a cqu ai n ta n c e s wh o i n th e ir turn le t th e se cre t o ut

, , , ,

t i ll it came t o th e e ars o f t h e a utho ritie s Sh e wa s ta k e n .

,

an d c o mp e ll e d t o co n fe ss wh e n c e sh e h a d re c e iv e d th e m ,

an d wh a t sh e kn ewo f th e culp rit s F ro m th e i n fo rma ti o n .

t hus o bta i n e d o n e o f th e me n wa s pursu e d ; a n d a t l a s t

, ,

be in g a ppre hen de d co n fe sse d h i s guilt a n d d e clare d wh o

, ,

we r e hi s c o n fe d e ra t e s Th e y al so we re cap ture d ; a n d a t
.

t h e i r tri al it ca me o ut th at th e y w e re th e same parti qs wh o

h a d co mmitt e d a si mila r sa crile ge so me ti me b e fo r e but h a d ,

e sca pe d c o n victi o n H e wh o h a d st o l e n th e o rname n ts wa s

.

a dj udge d t o b e t h e mo st guil ty a n d was sen t e n ce d t o b e ,

ha n ge d Each o f th e o t he rs l o st h is right han d an d l e ft

.

I t is i gula r tha t he re a s in Euro p e th e e xe cuti o n e r

s n , ,

cla i ms as h i s p e r qui sit e th e w e a ri n g app a re l a n d a rms o f

, ,

t h e suffe re r Th e l a tt e r al so u su a lly o ffe rs h im a bribe t o d o

.

his jo b quickly an d skil fully e l se h e will fro m spit e li n ge r as

—
,

lo n g a b o ut it as p o ssibl e sawi n g o ff t h e li mb ra th e r th an
,

cutt in g i t Th e o p e ra ti o n i s p e rfo rme d with a small cro o k e d

.

kn i fe ; an d if th e e x e cuti o n e r b e we ll pro piti at e d h e will

, ,

in s truc t hi s p ati e n t h o w t o h o ld h i s han d spre a d h i s fi n ge rs , ,

& c th a t h e may ge t mo re re a dily a t th e j o in t

.
,
H e ma y .

so m e t i me s b e e ve n i n duc e d t o giv e hi mse l f th e tro ubl e o f

u t t i a n e xt ra sup e rfi n e e dg e o n h i s i n stru me n t
p n g .

D urin g my s tay at To kh uli mn y o n e Sa t urd a y go i n g a s

’

, ,

usual t o Addaro fo r th e ma rk e t I fo u n d tha t my o l d fri e n d ,

2 B
37 0 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXIX .
I

H ajj i Aman , at h o u se I ge n e rally put up had

wh o se ,

go n e o ut t o di scu ss a n a ffair a b o ut th e o ccup a t i o n of

s o me l an d Th e di spute wa s thi s
.
— I t a pp ea rs that it
be l o n ge d t o a l a dy ca ll e d Wo z ro D e sta ; tha t Aman had
o ccupi e d it fo r a l e n gth o f ti me till n o w a n o th e r M oham
,

m e dan n ame d H ajji Ab d e l Kad e r fi n di n g th a t it lay con

, ,

v e n i e n tl a dj a c e n t t o h i s o w n h a d s e cr e t ly o utbid h im in
y ,

t h e re n t Th e la dy h a d c o n se n t e d t o t h e a rra n gement
. ,

which was ve ry un fa ir ; fo r a lth o ugh th e re a re n o l e ases in

t h e c o u n try still th e cu st o m i s tha t a l a n dl o rd n e ver dis
,

cha rge s h i s te n an t so l o n g a s h e pays h i s re n t a n d o therwise ,

co n duct s hi mse l f irre pro a cha bly .

A man wa s a cc o mpa n i e d o n ly by h i s t w o so n s Sai d and ,

Ibra him an d by a se rva n t whil e Ab d e l Kad e r e vidently

, , ,

pre di sp o se d fo r a t rial o f fo rce ra th e r th a n o f re aso n had ,

wi t h h i m h i s fo ur so n s an d fiv e o th e r p e rs o n s Mo reover .

h is p a rty we r e all arme d so me with sw o rd s o th e rs with

, ,

club s whil e o f tho se with Aman Ibra hi m o n ly ca rried a

, ,

swo rd .

Th e di spute wa xin g wa rm an d p e rh a p s n o t te n ding to

,
’
fa v o ur th e ir pre t e n si o n s A b d e l Kad e r s p a rty d e te rmined
,

t o try a n o th e r a rgu me n t whe re with t o b e a t th e ir a dve rsaries .

S o as a b e gin n in g o n e o f h i s s o n s with a club kn ocked

, ,
’
d o wn A man s se rvan t fro m be hin d bre a k in g h i s head and ,

str e tchi n g h i m o n t h e gro u n d se n se l e ss a n d n e a rly l ifeles s

,

Th e o ld ma n fo ll o we d thi s go o d e xampl e b y se izing my

fri e n d wh o w a s still o ld e r tha n h e a n d aft e r a mo mentary
, ,

tu ssl e dragge d h im o ff h is mul e an d i n t h e fal l ge tti ng him, ,

u n de r pro c e e d e d i n th e mo st u n fa ir ma n n e r t o hit him

,
“

with a stick H i s so n Ibra hi m n aturally

”
w h e n h e wa s d o wn , .
,

o f a phl e gmatic di sp o siti o n s e e me d a t thi s m o me n t t o have

,

but ha l f a n id e a as t o wha t was go i n g o n b ut Sai d blessed ,

w ith a ra th e r e xcit a bl e t e mp e r se e i n g h i s fa th e r i n danger

,
.

sn a tch e d th e swo rd fro m h i s a p ath e tic br o th e r an d drawing , ,

it ga v e o ld A b d e l Kad e r a slight bl o w o n th e fo rehead

, ,

a s h e a fte rwa rd s a ssure d me f

rrro re
( ) w ith t h e o bj ec t o

fright e i g h im th a n o f i n jurin g h im
n n I n truth I s aw the .

w o u n d a e w mi n ut e s a fte r an d it wa s sc a rc e ly de e p en g
f ou h
,
3 7 2 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H A R xx i x
.

fo rc e wo uld b e re so rt e d t o by th e pro se cut o rs i f th e y found ,

th e mse lve s un a bl e t o ga in th e ir p o in t by fa ir m e an s ; and ,

mo re o ve r h e h a d b e e n in fo rme d th a t th e ir fri e n d s were

,

mu ste ri n g i n gre a t n u mb e rs .

Th e pl a ce ch o se n fo r h o ldi n g th e co urt w a s n e ar the

church o f A ddy Gaddiva a village n o t far fro m t h e dwelling
,

o f t h e C hi e f A t o Me rra t ch
,
It wa s a lo v e ly gras sy spo t on
.
,

t h e t o p o f a small hill o n wh ich gre w s e v e ral la rge trees

, ,

u n d e r who se sha d e we sa t in judgme n t M e rratch s two

’
.

B e lla dt I n ka t e rs o r c o u n se ll o rs (A to H a b o Ge o rgi s an d Ato

,

O sse ravi l) o ffrc iat e d in h i s a bse n ce fo r h e pre fe rre d staying

,

a t h o me o n pr e t e n c e o f sickn e ss t o ri ski n g h i s pr e ci o us body

in th e c o n flict which was like ly t o e n su e N o r w as h e with

.

o ut ju s t re a so n s fo r h i s prud e n c e fro m w h a t I h ea rd both ,

b e fo re a n d aft e r th e tri a l it was n o t a t all pro b a bl e that his

,

rival Gabro Wa he d wo uld le t such a n o pp o rt u n ity occur

, ,

wit h o ut h a vi n g h i s a ge n t s mix e d i n th e cr o wd re a dy to pick

. ,

o ff th e C hi e f acci den ta lly if a fight c o u

,
ld b e go t up .

Ju st a s we we re co mfo rta bly se ttl e d i n o ur places the

B e lla dt I n ka t e rs sugge st e d tha t as a go o d n um be r o f people
we re a lre a dy a sse mbl e d it wo uld b e b e tte r t o b e gi n the pro
c e e d i n gs a t o n c e th a n t o l o se ti me in idl e di s cu s s i o n This .

wa s a prud e n ti al st e p fo r a lre a dy th e fri e n d s o f t h e o pposed

,

p arti e s h a d b e gun t o t alk o ve r th e dis put e a n d fro m tal king ,

the y h a d pro ce e d e d t o a rgue ; an d th e a rgu m e n t was begin

n i n g t o wax di sa gre e a bly warm A cc o rdi n gly a rra n gements
.

we re e n te re d i n t o fo r th e pre v e n ti o n o f c o n fu si o n and
sh e mmagi ll é o r o ld men
”
quarre l s N o o n e but th e
.
,

a mo n g w h o m I wa s i n clud e d as a n m m r)
( h o n o ra ry e be ,

we re a ll o we d t o re ma i n o n th e sp o t w h e re w e we re The .

se rv an t s a n d y o u n g me n w e re o rd e r e d t o se p a ra t e and to ,

withdraw t o a c o n sid e ra bl e di st an c e th e fri e n d s o f Aman

’
k e e pi n g th e vall e y b e l o w whil e th e a ccu s e r s p a rty remained
,

o n t h e ta bl e l a n d b e hi n d us .

Th e se pre cauti o n a ry me a sure s we re highly n e ce ssary even

a s th e ma tt e r n o w st o o d but w o uld I fe a r h a v e b een u
, ,
se
,

l e ss h ad th e fo rce s o f A b d e l Kad e r mu st e re d stro nger than

C HA P . XXI X . G O VE RN ME N T, LA WS ,
i re .
37 3

tho se o f Aman B ut i f o ur littl e a rmy o f 1 5 0 la n c e s o r

.
,

the re a b o ut s o v e rawe d the irs o f 1 2 0 h o w much mo re did

, ,

o ur 2 3 gun s l ea ve in t h e sh a d e th e ir p a l t ry 7 ma tchl o ck s

Th e figh ti n g me n b e i n g thu s di sp o se d o f n o n e re main e d

-
,

but th e j udge s an d e ld e rs Th e s e l a tte r we re th e n se p ara t e d

.
,

ha v i n g to act as co un se ll o rs fo r th e p arti e s wh o se ca u se th e y
e s po use d Th e fri e n d s o f H ajj i Aman re ma in e d n e a r us
.
,

w hil e th o se o f th e s o n s o f A b d e l Kad e r re tire d t o s o me

di s ta n c e t o co n sult to ge the r fre e ly o n ly o cca si o n ally co min g
,

t o us t o ask t h e a dvic e o f th e chi e fs o n so me p o i n t a n d t o ,

re c e i v e th e ir pro p o sal s o r th o se o f th e a ccu se d p a rty ; th e y

t h e n r e tir e d t o c o n sid e r th e me rit s o f such pro p o sa l s a n d

t h e pro prie ty o f t h e i r agre e in g t o th e m aga i n re turn i n g with ,

a n a n swe r o r a n ame n d men t a n d thu s a s n e a rly as p o ssibl e

, , ,

e x e m p li fyi n g p e rp e tu a l mo ti o n .

Th e p a rty o f th e d e fe n dan t t o o u n l e ss th e y h ad s o me thin g

,

p a rti cu l a r t o pr o p o se o r w e r e d,
e sir e d t o r e ma i n s e a t e d i n

o r d e r t o r e c e ive so me a n sw e r o r h e a r so me d e ci si o n u su al ly ,

ro se a t th e a ppro a ch o f th e ir o pp o n e n t s an d re mo v e d t o a ,

d i s ta n ce in o rd e r to all o w o f the ir ha vi n g fre e do m o f sp e e ch

,

w i t h t h e t wo B e lla dt I n kat e rs .

Thi s go in g a n d c o mi n g co n ti n u e d fo r n early thre e ho ur s ,

d uri n g which time al so t h e l aw s b o th C hri stian a n d Mus ,

s ul m a n ,
w e re re fe rre d t o an d th e fe w wit n e sse s wh o h a d
,

a n yt h i n g p articul ar to s ay o n th e ma tt e r we re e x ami n e d .

T h e fin a l d e ci si o n wa s tha t d e a th was th e due o f th e

,

s l a y e r ; but as Sai d wa s h e ld in gre a t e st e e m by a ll th e

n e igh b o urh o o d t h e pri n cip a l me n pr e se n t agre e d i n priva t e

,

t h a t th e y sh o uld fra me so me e xcu s e fo r d e la yi n g t h e e x e c u

t i o n o f th e se n t e n c e h o pi n g me a n whil e th at th e fa mily o f
,

t h e l a t e Ab d e l Kad e r might b e pre va il e d o n t o re c e iv e a sum

o f m o n e y in li e u o f bl o o d .

’
T w o o f A b d e l K ad e r s so n s as th e pro se cut o rs an d , ,
’
S a i d s fa th e r a n d bro th e r o n h i s p a rt the n me t fo r t h e firs t,

firs t ti me durin g th e tri al i n o rd e r t o di scu ss thi s qu e sti o n

,
.

T h e y p a rl e ye d to ge th e r fo r a l o n g ti me go i n g a n d c o mi n g ,

as b e fo re u n til a t las t th e pl ai n ti ffs w e re pre va il e d up o n t o

,
’
c o n s e n t t o Sai d s b e i n g re p ri e v e d fo r o n e mo n th Th e o ld .
 3 74 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . xxrx .

’
man , H ajji Aman , th e n b e gge d to su ffe r t i n h i s so n s s ead,
o n th e pl e a th a t t h e d e c e a se d , lik e h i m, w as o l d , an d that

it wo uld b e a sh am e t o kill a fin e pro mi si n g y o u n g man,

wh o m so man y wo uld re gre t , fo r th e sa k e o f o n e w h o se foot
wa s r dy i n th e grave b e side s which h e p o in te d o ut that
al e a

t h e qu a rre l wa s h i s an d th a t h i s so n o n ly a ct e d in his
,

s e rvic e a n d did n o t s trik e till h e fe lt c o mp e ll e d t o do so in

,
’
h i s fa th e r s d e fe n c e Thi s p e titi o n a l so wa s gra n te d after a
.

su ffici e n t a mo u n t o f a rgume n t an d c o n s ulta ti o n .

The p a rti e s t h e n mad e o a th t o a bid e by th e a gre e ments

thu s e n te re d in to —n a me ly tha t th e fa mily o f t h e d eceased ,
’
sh o uld in n o wa y a tt e mpt t o mo l e st a n y o f H ajj i Aman s

p e o pl e u n til th e a ppo in t e d day an d tha t h e wo uld a ppear on ,

tha t day an d give hi mse l f up fo r e xe cuti o n H i s so n Said

,
.
,

h o we ve r wa s k e pt b o u n d a s a h o sta ge h i s life being

,
’
a n swe rabl e fo r h i s fa th e r s a pp e a ra n c e .

Thu s t e rmin a te d th e e ve n ts o f th e day an d ve ry con , ,

t rary t o ge n e ra l e xp e cta ti o n e v e ry man re tir e d t o h i s h ome ,

in p e a c e a n d qui e t (b arrin g a lway s a wra n gle o r two b y the

way) n o t h o we ve r ti ll la te fo r it was d a rk b e fo re w e re ached
, , , ,

To kh uli mn y .

So me d ays af e
t r I p aid a vi sit t o B ella dta H a b t o Geo rgis
, ,

a t wh o se h o u se I h a d l e ft t h e u n fo rtu n a t e Sai d in c o nfine

me n t h i s right h an d b e i n g cha i n e d to th e l e ft o f A bdallah

, ,

o n e o f th e so n s o f A b d e l Kad e r Th e n ight p re vi ous to .

my vi sit t h e l ast me n ti o n e d yo un g man thi n ki n g d o ubtless

,
-
, , ,
’
th a t it wo uld do h im cre dit t o a ve n ge h i s fa th e r s d e a th and ,

b e i n g p e rhap s i mpa ti e n t at h i s pro tra ct e d c o n fin e ment ,

’
b e gge d o f o n e o f H ab to Ge o rgi s se rvan ts t o pro cure him a
s t o n e fo r a pill o w Thi s wa s n o t an e xtra o rdi n ary re quest
.
,

a s st o n e s o r bl o ck s o f wo o d a re t h e u su a l p il l o w s i n Ab s
y
s i n ia. Th e y bro ught h im a ve ry large o n e ; h e thanked
th e m a n d pl acin g it u n d e r h i s h e a d w a s i n a fe w minutes
, , , , ,

sn o ri n g awa y c o mfo rt a bly H o we ve r h e was o n ly sham

.
,

mi n g sl e e p wait in g till h i s pri so n e r sh o uld b e re a lly so No

, .

so o n e r did h e p e rc e iv e thi s t o b e th e c a s e th a n ra i sin g him , ,

s e l f up st e a lthily h e li ft e d th e s t o n e
,
a n d d a s h e d it down ,

with a ll h i s fo rc e o n th e pl a c e wh e re h e h a d i n th e dark
 37 6 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXIX .

ta k e th e life o f an o ld n e ighb o ur an d fo rme r friend ,

e sp e ci a lly a ft e r bl o o d h a d b e e n a ll o w e d t o c o o l an d after ,

li st e n i n g t o th e e n tre a ti e s of th e wh o l e n e ighb o urho o d .

’
So it wa s agre e d t o sp a re th e o l d ma n s l ife an d the ,

ran so m wa s a t first fix e d a t 6 0 0 d o lla rs 3 0 0 o f w hich were ,

’
t o go t o Le mma O ub i s e ld e s t so n as gre a t c hi e f of the
, ,

pro vin ce in wh ich it o ccurre d an d th e re m a i n i n g half to,

t h e family o f th e d e a d ma n Thi s l a rg e am o un t was of

.

’
c o urse o bj e cte d to by th e p aye rs an d Ibra hi m A man s son , , ,

se t o f f with a p e titi o n t o D e jat c h Oubi s ta tin g t h e whole ,

circu msta n c e s o f th e ca se an d prayi n g fo r h i s d ecision

,
.

Oubi t o o k a ve ry ju st vi e w o f th e ma tte r a n d a ft e r se nding , ,

t o h i s so n re pro vi n g h i m fo r t h e e x o rbita n c e o f h i s d e mand

, ,

re duc e d it to o n e third o f i t s o rigi n a l a m o u n t adjudging ,

1 0 0 d o ll ars t o h i s so n a n d a lik e sum to

,
t h e o th e r party .

Th e ra n so m mo n e y wa s sp e e dily c o ll e ct e d fo r though , ,
’
H ajj i A man so licit e d n o o n e s assistan c e m a n y o f his ,

frie n d s o f th e ir o wn a cc o rd came fo rwa rd ; so me volun

te e ri n g l o an s a n d o the rs fre e ly sub scribi n g t ill th e whole
, ,

wa s p a id .

Thu s all e n d e d we ll : o n ly Aman was o blige d fiom ,

mo tive s o f prud e n c e t o l e a ve h i s fo rme r dw e lli n g w hich was

, ,

a dj a c e n t t o a n d c o mmu n ic a t e d w ith th a t o f A b d e l Ba b
, ,gy ,

a s it was su s p e ct e d th a t t h e bro th e rs s till pl o tt e d to be

tre ach e ro u sly re ve n ge d o n h im n o twith s ta n di n g that the ,

ran so m h a d b e e n pa id an d tha t th e y h a d re n e we d their

,

fo rme r o a th o f k e e pi n g th e p e a c e .

I ha v e o ccasi o n a lly sp o ke n o f p e rso n s ta ki n g o a ths in law

case s A mo n g th e C hri sti a n s o f A byssi n ia it i s n o t uncom
.

mo n t o se ttl e a di spute a b o ut mo n e y ma tte rs (s uch as small

d e bts o r o the r affa irs) wh e n n o witn e sse s c an b e pro duced
, ,
’
by o n e p a rty s swe a ri n g t o th e va lidity o f h is cl a i m Even .

ki n gs o r chi e fs by a v e ry so le mn o ath c o n firm the ir pro

, ,

mi se s o f p a rd o n t o a re b e l wh o may o ffe r t o r e turn to his

a ll e gi a n c e ; but o cc as i o n a lly a s we h av e s e e n i n a fo rmer
,

cha pte r pro mi se s th o ugh thu s co n se cra t e d a re broken

, , ,

t hro ugh t o suit t h e purp o se s o f ambiti o n cupidity or , ,

re ve n ge .
C HA P . XXI X . G O VE R N M E N T, LA WS , (f t .
37 7

Th e re a re man y fo rms ri n g o n e o f which c o n

o f sw e a , ,

s i d e re d as v e ry bi n di n g i s ca ll e d Me damme d
,
”
I n taki n g .

thi s o a th th e swe a re r lights a litt le s traw which i s pl ace d i n ,

h i s h an d o n a laye r o f c o wdun g Whe n th e straw i s we ll .

i gn ite d h e e xti n gui sh e s it by p o uri n g wa t e r o ve r it a n d a t ,

t h e sa m e ti me e xpre ss e s a w i sh th a t h i s family may b e

b urn t an d the ir me mo ry blo tte d o ut fro m th e fac e o f th e
,

e a rth fo r se ve n ge n e ra ti o n s i f h e sh o uld vi o la t e h i s pro mi se

, .

Oth e rs swe a r by th e swo rd U n sh e a thin g o n e the y pra y .

,

t h a t as sure ly a s it i s thu s drawn i n wit n e ss o f th e ir w o rd

, ,

s o sure ly may th e h o ly A rch a n ge l St Mich ae l draw h is t o .

t h e ir d e s tructi o n i f tha t wo rd sh o uld pro v e fal se Si mil a rly .

a l s o by a gun o r o th e r we a p o n
'
Oth e rs agai n by th e picture
.

o f St Ge o rge pla ci n g th e ir han d s o n h i s lik e n e ss a n d

.
, ,

c a l lin g up o n h i m th a t sh o uld th e y pro v e fa ithl e s s h e sh o uld ,

d ir e ct h is lan c e agai n st th e m as fo rme rly aga in st th e drago n .

B ut t h e mo st impre ssiv e an d so le mn o a th i s th at which i s

t a k e n i n t h e church wh e n fo r so me i mp o rta n t qu e sti o n a
, , ,
’
m a n s o pp o n e n t re quire s h im t o b e s wo rn in th at ho ly
p l a c e . T h e m an i s ta ke n i n t o th e o ut e r circl e o f th e church

t o t h e pla ce wh e re th e b o di e s o f t h e d e a d a re l a id pre vi o u sly

t o bu ri a l H e i s th e re s tre tch e d o n o n e o f th e ma t s which
.
,

I h a v e d e scrib e d ) are u se d i n st e a d o f c o ffi n s L yi ng

( a s .

t h e re h e mak e s h i s a sse v e ra ti o n a t t h e mo me n t wh e n th e
,

S a c ra m en t i s b e i n g di stribut e d a n d ca ll s up o n th e Al might y,

t o r e c o rd it a n d to gran t a s a t e sti mo n y tha t sh o uld h e

, ,

h a v e sw o rn fal se ly h e ma y re turn aft e r th e sp a c e o f thre e

, ,

d a y s o r se ve n a t th e mo st t o th e mat o n which h e i s n o w
, ,

lyi n g n e ve r t o l e av e it mo re
,
.

I t i s h o we ve r al wa ys c o n sid e r e d a ra th e r di sgra c e ful

, ,

a c t i o n to ca ll thu s up o n th e Lo rd o r e v e n o n h i s sa i n t s in , ,

m a t t e rs o f filthy l ucre a lth o ugh i n d e e d th e cau se h e

, , ,

a jus t o n e so much s o ,
tha t man y p e rso n s p o sse sse d o f a
,

o o d r e puta ti o n which th e y a re s crupul o u s o f i n a n ywi s e

g ,

s u ll y i n g i n t
,
h e e v e n t o f b e i n g re quire d t o
p y
a a n u n ju s t
d e b t o r e ve n an i magi n a ry o n e wo uld pl a c e th e amo u n t in
, ,

t h e h a n d s o f so me tru st wo rthy p e rso n t o b e p a id o ve r t o th e

c l a i ma n t sh o uld h e ch o o se t o p e rjur e hi mse lf pre fe rri n g
, ,
3 7 8 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . xxrx .

ra th e r tori sk th e ir mo n e y than t o b e o blige d t o swe ar even

t o th e truth .

P e rju ry i s mo st ju stly l o o k e d up o n as a h o rribl e crime in

thi s co u n try as e l se wh e re A ma n co n vict e d o f it would
.

n o t o n ly l o se h i s re puta ti o n a n d b e fo r e v e r i n ca p acitated
,

fro m b e a ri n g witn e ss e ve n o n t h e mo s t trivi a l qu e sti o n but,

h e wo uld lik e wi se in all pro b ability b e b o u n d a n d se verely

fi n e d a n d might in d e e d thin k hi mse l f fo rtu n a t e if h e got off
,

w ith a ll h is li mb s i n th e ir pro p e r pl a c e s o r w i t h o ut his hide

,
”
b e i n g sc o re d by th e gi raffe to th e patt e rn o f a leg of roast
p o rk .
 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP XXX
. .

fro m ca re l e ssn e ss o r fo o lha rdi n e ss th an fro m n ec e ssity ; for

h e re in A by ssin ia t h e vall e ys a re so n a rr o w tha t it seldom
’
ta k e s yo u mo re tha n a sh o rt day s j o urn e y t o p a s s fro m one
v ill ag e o n th e high gr o u n d t o a n o th e r o n t h e o pp o site side .

M o re o v e r u n l e ss yo u are pre sse d fo r ti m e yo u n e ed not

, ,

trave l in th e b ad se a so n It will b e muc h b e tt e r t o rest for

.

a fe w m o n th s i n so me c o mfo rt a bl e pl a c e w h e re yo u may ,

we ll e mpl o y yo urse l f i n re vi sin g yo ur n o t e s s k e tch e s &c , ,

.
,

t i ll th e sun an d dry we a the r sha ll hav e re mo ve d t h e dangers

an d a n n o yan c e s fro m y o ur p a th .

I o n ce tra ve ll e d thro ugh a wh o l e “

k rumt o r rainy

se a so n a cro ss o n e o f t h e mo st fe bril e d i s t rict s i n thi s part

,

o f Africa n a me ly th e pro vi n c e s o f Sh i ré Wa lda bb a and

, , , ,

Walkai t i n Abyssi n ia an d th e plain S o f th e A tb a ra an d Soufr

, ,
'

o n my w a y t o t h e c a pita l o f N ubi a ; but th e n I had the

e xp e ri e n c e o f thre e y e a rs a gre a t p a rt o f w hich ti me had

,

be en p asse d i n th e ba ckwo o d s ab o ut th e M a re b When l .

c o uld ge t wo o d I in vari ably lighte d tw o l a rg e fire s and

, ,

sl e pt b e twe e n th e m Thi s plan , th o ugh n o t v e ry agre eable

.

till yo u a re u sed t o it i s a capita l pre v e n ti v e o f di se ase ; for

,
’
duri n g th e day th e su n s h ea t ra i se s th e m o i s t ure in steam ,

which wh e n th e e v e n i n g b e c o me s c o o l d e s c e n d s in the
, ,

fo rm o f d e w o r fo g a n d i n thi s fo rm i s o n e o f th e gre atest

,

h e lp s t o a fe v e r Th e h e at yo u hav e a ro u n d yo u an swers
.

th e purp o s e o f a l o ca l sun an d yo u a re i n n o mo re danger

,

than duri n g th e d ayti me B ut wh en I sa y I lay be tween .

two fir e s it mu st b e u n d e r sto o d th a t th e y w e re so close

,

t o ge th e r tha t I wa s o blige d to co ve r mys e l f w ith a pi ece of

hid e o r a c o a rse n a tiv e wo o ll e n cl o th t o p re v e n t th e sparks ,

o r e mb e rs which might fly o ut se tti n g fire t o my c otton

, ,

cl o th e s A n o th e r pl a n which is a lwa y s a d o pt e d by the

—
.
,

n a tiv e s i s n o t I thi n k a b d o e
, ,
a n z ,
R o ll yo ur h e ad com
p l e t e ly up i n y o ur cl o th w hich w i ll th e,
n a c t a s a re spirator .

Yo u may o fte n se e a n igge r lyi n g a sl e e p w ith t h e whole of

h i s b o dy u n c o ve re d but h i s h e a d a n d fa c e c o mpletely
,

c o n c e al e d in man y fo ld s .

Smo ki n g I n e e d n o t re c o mme n d I ca n sca rc e ly i magine

.

th at an y ma n co uld tra ve l lo n g i n th ese c o un tri e s wi thout

 C H AP . xx x . PH YS I CA L C ON 5 TI TU TI ON , i r e .
3 8 1

l e a rn in g th e n e c e ssity o f it Th e A b yssin ian s o f th e high .

l a n d s ha ve it i s tru e a stro n g r e ligi o u s preju dice aga in st it

, , ,

an d t h e r e fo r e it i s c o mp a r a ti v e ly sp e akin g but littl e u se d

.
, ,

a m o n g th e m ; i n d e e d in mo st pa rts o f th e ir co u n try th e
,

c li ma t e i s so fin e a s t o re n d e r it n e e dl e ss o r p e rh ap s hurtful , .

Th e n a tiv e s o f l o w di s tri ct s ha v e h o we v e r n o such pre , ,

j udice Th e who l e o f th e Shan ga lla o f th e M a re b a n d

.

Ta c ca z y smo ke a bun d a n tly ; an d th e n igge rs o f th e Whit e

N i l e bo th me n an d wo me n are n e v e r with o ut a pip e an d
, ,

s o m e o f t h e ir pip e s wo uld c o n ta i n a p o u n d o f t o b a cc o .

I h a d fo rme rly a v e ry l a rge o n e but gav e it awa y ; th e ,

la rge s t I n o w p o sse ss wo uld n o t c o n ta i n much mo re th an a

q u a rt e r o f th a t qu a n ti t y N a tur e i s t h e
. f o u n d e r o f cu s t om

i n sa vage c o u n tri e s ; th o ugh we sh o uld sc a rc e ly b e apt t o

supp o se it i f we judge by wha t w e s e e i n civiliz e d p a rt s o f

t h e w o rld wh e re cu sto m i s t h e gr e a t e n e my o f n a ture

, .

I w o uld al so r e c o mme n d a n o th e r p ra ctic e th a t o f n e v e r ,

v e n t uri n g abro a d i n a lo w u n h e a lth y sp o t till th e sun h a s ,

ri s e n a n h o ur o r mo re It i s cu st o ma ry t o h o ld th e sun i n
.

g r e a t dr e a d I d o n o t .pr e t e n d t o sa y w h e th e r m y c o n st i t u
t i o n i n thi s re sp e ct di ffe rs fro m th a t o f o th e r me n but fo r ,

my p a rt I n e ve r re tire d i n to th e sha d e t o a vo id th e n o o n
,

d a y h e a t an d fo r fo ur ye a rs I n e v e r wo r e an y c o v e ri n g t o
m y h e a d e xce pt th e ra th e r scan ty all o wa n c e o f h air with
w h ich n a ture h a s suppli e d me with t h e a dditi o n o cca ,

s i o n a l l y o f a littl e butt e r D u ri n g th e wh o l e o f that ti me I

.

n e v e r h a d a h e ad a ch e I n I n di a I sh o uld thi n k thi s e x

.

p o s u re w o uld b e d a n g e r o u s t o E n gli sh m e n — n o t fr o m t h e

c lim a t e but fro m th e v e ry um I n di a n li fe l e d by our c o u n try

,
-

m e n th e r e I am p o sitive tha t it mu st b e d e a th t o a man

.

t o go i n to th e sun aft e r a b a ll a h e av y supp e r an d a due , ,

r o fte n u n du e ) pr o p o rti o n o f a rd e n t Spirit s t o wa sh a ll

( o

d o wn . Th e spirit s are a n e c e ssa ry c o n se qu e n c e o n t h e

In th e se cli ma t e s a man can n o t e a t much o r e ve n if h e , ,

co ul d h e o ught n o t
, I f h e e a t s much me a t o r o th e r i n di
.

e s t ib l e ma tt e r h e mu st o f n e c e ssity t ak e e ith e r qu an titi es

g ,

of p e pp e r a n d o th e r spic e s a s d o th e n a tiv e I n di a n s an d ,
s
 3 8 2 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C R AP xxx .

Abys si n i a n s, or h e mu st
drin k ha rd a s d o th e Euro pe ans in ,

I n dia an d so me pa rts o f Egypt F o rtu n a t e ly i n Abyssinia .

th e re i s little in duce me n t t o e xc e ss e ith e r in e ating or ,

dri n kin g Th e re are n o go o d co o ks a n d t h e t ap i s of the

.
,

mo st i n fe ri o r qua lity ; but t h e se mi st a rv a ti o n t o which one -

i s n o w a n d the n re duc e d so far fro m b e i n g a ha rd ship in

,

tra ve llin g a s it i s o fte n re pre se n te d by t o u ri s t s i s if not

, , ,

c o n tin u e d t o e xtre mi ty o n e o f th e gre a t e s t p o ssible bless

,

i n gs O f co urse a ma n wh o ca re s a s t ra w a b o ut what he
.

e a t s sh o uld n e v e r a tt e mpt t o trav e l i n A frica H is life .

wo uld b e a n ythi n g but o n e o f pl e a sure it wo uld in d ee d be

a ma tt e r o f h a rd ship It i s n o t sufli c ie n t t o sa y I can eat
.
,

a n ythi n g th a t i s cl ean a n d wh o l e so me Y o u will o ften .

have t o e at thin gs tha t are far fro m b e i n g e ith e r especially ,

”
t h e fo rme r Th e pro v e rb
. Wha t d o e s n o t p o i so n fattens
, ,

i s much n e ar e r th e ma rk I ha ve e a t e n o f al m o st every
li vi n g thi n g tha t walke th flie th o r cre e p e th—li o n leo pard
.

, , , ,

wo l f ca t ha wk cro c o dil e sn a k e liz a rd l o cu s t & c

, , , , and I , , , .

sh o uld b e so rry t o say wh a t dirty me sse s I h a v e a t times

b e e n o blige d t o put up with Sti ll I c a n n o t man age the .

ga me ju st pro p e rly ke pt as it i s ca ll e d but which I

“
, ,

s h o uld ca ll putrid n o twith sta n di n g th a t it i s

, s o much

e st e e me d by e picure s i n E n gl an d : n o r c a n I fan cy h a e na
y
o r vultur e wh o se t as t e i n thi s ma tt e r a pp e a rs o ft e n to a ree
, g
with th a t o f o ur Euro p e a n go urma n d s .

Th e re i s n o d o ubt tha t by co n s ta n t e xp o s ure t o the air

, ,

pl e n ty o f e x e rci se lo w livi n g an d a go o d d e a l o f rough

, ,

k n o cki n g ab o ut th e ski n b e c o me s ha rd e n e d th e nerves

, ,

d e a d e n e d a n d t h e who l e syst em re n d e re d le s s su sceptible

,

o f i n fl amma t o ry a cti o n .

Thu s it i s that th e ir mo d e o f life ma k e s sa va ge s all over ,

th e wo rld wiry a n d a ctiv e a n d e n d o ws th e m w ith what to

, , ,

Euro p e an s wh o ha ve n e v e r tri e d th e sa me sy st e m a ppears a ,

wo n d e rful a mo u n t o f e n du ra n c e e ith e r o f hu n ge r thirst , , ,

fa tigue o r a ctu a l p a i n
,
.

So me n a ti o n s t h e N o rth A me ric an I n di a n s fo r e xample

, ,

a ctu a lly tra i n th e mse lv e s b e fo r e u n d e rgo i n g a n m o un t o f

y a

pre me ditat e d su ffe ri n g I re me mb e r Mr C a tli n te lling me

. .
 8
3 4 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AR XXX .

h er han d ro ughly o ve r th e ca ute riz e d p a rts s o as to remove ,

t h e burn t skin O n a c o pp e r c o l o ure d p e rso n th e scars

.
-
,

wh e n we ll h e al e d a ssu m e a p o li sh e d bl a ck s urfa c e which

, ,

c o n trast s ve ry pre ttily with th e n a tura l skin O n a Euro .

p e a n th e y a re sca rce ly di stin gui shable th e p o li sh only ,

re ma in i n g with o ut a n y di ffe re n c e o f c o l o ur Out o f ten .

ma rks tha t I h a d ma d e o n my arm o n o n e o ccasi o n only ,

o n e s h o w s we ll it ha pp e n e d t o b e bu rn t d e e p an d I kept ,

it fro m h e a lin g fo r thre e mo n ths so a s t o l e a v e a go o d scar ,

.

Thi s i s fre qu e n tly d o n e fo r th e sa ke o f o rn a m e n t without ,

a n y bra va d o wh a t e v e r .

Whil e ta lki n g o f o rn ame n t s I may a dd tha t ma n y o f the

,

Afric an trib e s h a v e d e vic e s fo r a d o rn i n g th e ir fl e sh which

wo uld b e c o n sid e r e d a s h o rribly pa in firl by Euro p e an s but ,

which th e y tre a t v e ry lightly So me o f t h e Abyssinians

.

ma k e a fle sh brac e l e t o n th e wri s t by tigh tly tyi n g ro und it

-

a pi e c e o f ro o t which p o sse sse s o r i s b e li e ve d t o p o ssess a, ,

c o rro si v e pro p e rty Aft e r so me time a t a n y ra te it eats

.
, ,

i n t o th e fl e sh so a s to fo rm a d e e p so re wh ich when the

, , ,

r o o t i s re mo v e d gra du a lly h e als l e a v i n g n o t me rely an

, , ,

o rdi n a ry sc a r but a p e rfe ct rai se d b an d o f t h e thickn ess of

, ,
’
o n e s littl e fi n ge r : fo r th e same purp o s e th e y o ccasi onally ,

ma ke ga sh e s o f an i n ch l o n g o r mo re o n t h e a rm s o r body ,

which a l so wh e n h e a l e d l e av e ra i s e d s c ars a n d are con

, , ,

si de re d o rn a me n t a l .

A mo n g so me o f th e ge n ui n e n e gro e s i n t h e n e ighb o urhood ,

o f K o rd o fan a n d e l s e wh e re th e fe ma l e s a re ga s h e d in strip
,
es
’
a ll d o wn th e b o dy a n d b a ck a n d t h e mo r e t h e scars are ,

ra i se d th e mo re b e autiful i s th e o rn a me n t c o n s id e re d I have .

se e n sl a v e girl s n e a rly c o v e re d with e xcr e sc e n c e s so me times

,
’
o f t h e siz e o f a pige o n 5 e gg t h e a pp e a ran c e o f which is ,

a l mo st d i sgu sti n g t o a stran ger th o ugh highly e steemed ,

a mo n g th e mse lv e s
'

I d o n o t e xa ctly k n o w h o w thi s cheet

.

i s o bt ai n e d . I ha v e o fte n in quire d wh e the r th ey use any

me a n s t o pro duc e it a n d ha ve b e e n t o ld o f va ri o us ; bu
,
t
th o ugh I h ave ma d e fre qu e n t e xp e ri me n t s o n m yse lf I never ,

s ucc e e d e d i n pro curi n g th e d e si re d b e a uty s p o t s H ence l .

a m le d t o su sp e ct tha t it d e p e n d s much o n t h e qu ali ty ofthe

CH AP . XXX . PH YS I CA L CON S TI TU TI ON , li f e . 8
3 5

s ki n a n d am co n firme d in thi s o pin i o n by two o b se rva ti o n s

,

fi rs t th a t o n a pure bla ck hid e th e marks are much mo re

,

p r o m i n e n t th an o n o n e o f c o pp e r c o l o ur e d h ue -
a n d se c o n d ,

t h a t I h a ve se e n sca rs c e rta i n ly n o t i n t e n d e d fo r o rn a me n t ,

v iz .
,
tho se pro duce d by a so u n d whippi n g in quit e as a lt o ,

ril i e v o a s tho se i n t e n t i o n a lly ma d e .

S t i ll c o n tin ui n g t o c o mpa r e th e p o we r o f e n dura n c e o f

i i v g w ith th t f Eur o p e a n I might sa th t it
p a n n a sa a e a o a y a ,

h as o ft e n struck me as si n gul a r th a t o ur so ldi e rs i n fo rme r

t im e s sh o uld su ffe r s o much fro m a fe w hu n dre d l a sh e s w ith
t h e ca t I n e ve r o f c o urse tri e d it my se l f a n d th e re fo re
.
, , ,

m a y b e w ro n g but b e li e ve tha t if I we re o ut i n th o se c o u n
, ,

t ri e s I co uld fin d ma n y a bl a ck fe ll o w wh o wo uld ta k e 5 0 0
,

w ill i n gly fo r a trifli n g c o n sid e ra ti o n A d e scripti o n o f t h e

.

m o d e o f du e llin g pra cti se d in th e n e ighb o urh o o d o f D o n g o l a

m a y s e rve t o thro w so me light o n thi s a sse rti o n which ma y ,

ro b a bly a pp e a r ra sh t o ma n y o f my re a d e rs I h a ve a l re a d y
p .

d e scribe d t h e way in which the y fight a t So n akin with

c r o o k e d k n iv e s so sh a p e d a s t o cut we ll with o ut a n y p o s si
,
’
b ili t y o f ca u sin g d e ath ; th e D o n go lawi s du e l i s c o n duct e d
o n e xa ctly t h e sa me pri n cipl e a n d a cc o rdi n gly t h e vict o r i s
,

h e wh o ca n re c e ive t h e mo st wo un d s with o ut shri n ki n g o r

fai n t in g Th e o n ly di ffe re n c e i s i n t h e w e a p o n a l o n g h e a vy
.
,

w h ip ma d e o f a so lid th o n g o f hipp o p o t amu s hid e t a p e ri n g

,
-
,

fro m t h e th ickn e ss o f a s t o ut wa lki n g stick d o wn wa rd s ; i n -

i ts e ffe cts h o we v e r it i s e qu a l t o th e kn ife fo r e v e ry bl o w i f

, , , ,

we l l d e liv e r e d cut s a d e e p furro w in to t h e fl e sh

,
Thi s du e l .

i s n o t a se ri o u s ma tt e r but i s e n gage d in by y o u n g me n o n
,

t h e s light e s t p o ssibl e pre te xt o ft e n me re ly t o di spl ay th e ir

,

ma n h o o d A n a n ga re b (c o uch) u n d e r which a jar o f

“ ”
.
,

b e e r i s u sually s e t (fo r r e fre sh me n t b e tw e e n th e ro u n d s ) i s ,

la c e d b e twe e n th e c o mb a ta n t s e a ch o f wh o m i s stripp e d t o
p ,

t h e w a i st an d a rme d with o n e o f t h e fo rmi d a bl e whip s I

h a v e d e scrib e d A s so o n a s a ll i s re a dy th e y b e gi n giv i n g
.
,
’
a l t e rn a te strip e s o n e a ch o th e r s sh o uld e rs but n e ith e r b e i n g ,

al l o w e d t o e v a d e o r wa rd o ff a bl o w ; th e y c o n ti n u e thi s

agre e a bl e p a s ti me fo r a v e ry l o n g ti me ti ll o n e fa ll s d o w n ,

2 c
3 8 6 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AR XXX .

e xhau ste d fro m l o ss o f blo o d a n d th e pu n i sh me n t he has

re ce iv e d .

A s till b e tte r pro o f o f th e c a p abiliti e s p o s se sse d by these

pe o pl e fo r e n du rin g b e a tin g i s th e co o l n e ss w ith w hich they
,

re c e iv e th e t e rrific pu n i sh me n t s so fre qu e n tly i n flicte d on

th e m by the ir Turki sh go v e rn o rs I m y se l f h a v e witnessed .

ma n y i n sta n c e s o f m e n o f all age s up t o s i x t y an d more , ,

b e in g l a id d o w n t o re c e iv e se ve r al hun dre d b l o ws I n Egypt .

o r hipp o po tamu
”
the se are giv e n wi th th e c o urb a t c h ,
s

whip I h a v e j u s t d e scrib e d ; but i n t h e upp e r parts of

,

N ubi a K o rd o fan & c th e Turk s pro b a bly j ud gi n g that the

, , .
, ,

na tiv e s mu st b e a ccu st o me d t o thi s s tyl e o f fl o ggin g from

the ir fre qu e n t use o f it a mo n g th e ms e lv e s a lways punish ,

”
w i th t h e n a b o ut a h e avy stick o r c a n e ab o ut five
—
, ,

fe e t l o n g a n d a n i n ch i n di a me te r
,
o ft e n much more
, ,

s e ld o m l e ss Th e culprit i s l aid d o wn with h i s fa c e to the

.

gro u n d a n d h e ld th e re by ro p e s ti e d t o h i s fe e t an d under
,

h i s a rms ; a n d th e bl o w s a re d e liv e re d t w o h an d e d by a -

co upl e o f so ldi e rs wh o sta n din g o n e o n e ith e r sid e o f the

, ,

su ffe re r strik e by turn s e xa ctly a s we thra s h c o rn in Eng

,

l an d t h e o fli c e r i n th e me an whil e sits n e a r smo kin g and

, , , , ,
”
i f h e b e a me rci ful ma n c o u n ti n g th e bl o ws o n hi s
, sibha

a s o rt o f ro sa ry u se d by th e Mo h a mme d a n s m
( ) I n t h e any .

i n sta n c e s o f thi s styl e o f pu n i shme n t th a t I ha ve wi tn essed ,

I n e v e r re me mb e r ha vi n g h e a rd a ma n cry o ut lu stily : ft c
qu e n tly I h a ve h e a rd th e m b o ast I a m a t wo h o rn e d ox ! ,
“
-

I a m bro th e r o f th e girl s t e n time s ! a n d s o o n ; b ut the ”

g r e a t e s t p ro o f o f s uff e ri n g th e y e v e r s e e m e d t o utt e r w as a n

o cc asi o n a l gr o a n fro m a w e a kly ma n o r a fe w pra ye rs for ,

me rcy n o t l o udly e j a c ul a t e d but sp o k e n i n n e a rly the

, ,

n a tur a l t o n e o f v o ic e I re me mb e r a n i n sta n c e o f an old

.

ma n wh o with fiv e o th e rs wa s s e n t e n c e d t o 5 0 0 fo r e vading
, ,

t h e t a x a ti o n by l e a vi n g h i s pro vi n c e A ft e r th e fi rst t wenty

.

b l o ws h e o n c e o r twic e r e p e a t e d Me rcy o h B e y when a

, ,
’
wo ma n wh o wa s s ta n di n g by c o o lly sa id
, ,
Wh a t s the use ,
’
o f t i ri n y u r thr t w h u k w y u ll thi b
g o o a e n yo n o o g e t n o ng y
i t P a n d fro m th a t mo me n t h e la y as still as i f n o thi ng were
”
3 8 8 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXX .

a go o d ba rga in in se curi n g a few shillin gs a t t h e e xp e n se of

h i s z o o bl o ws : fo r h a d h e c o n fe sse d a t t h e fir s t st ro ke and
,

r e sto re d th e mo n e y h e wo uld i n all pro bab ility have re

, , ,

c e i v e d v e ry fe w i f a n y mo r e bl o ws tha n h e did b e fo re the

, ,

a ccid e n t a l di sc o v e ry .

I n di ffe re n t p a rts o f thi s v o lu me I h av e r e l at e d many

an e cd o t e s fro m which may b e ga th e r e d t h e fa cili ty with
which wo u n d s h e a l o n p e rso n s wh o se bl o o d i s co o l and
wh o se syst e m s are re duc e d to a su ffici e n t d e gr e e o f t raining
by a life o f h a rd ship an d privatio n ; fo r i n st an c e i n th e case ,

o f t h e spli n t e r thro ugh my o wn fo o t m an y m e dical men ,

have a ssure d me tha t h ad I b e e n fa t w ith Euro p ea n good

,

thi n gs i n s t e a d o f ha lf sta rv e d I sh o uld h a ve c e rtain ly be en

,

c o n fi n e d to my b e d fo r a l e n gth o f ti me with a p o ssibility of ,

l o ck e d jaw B ut I allude t o mo re se ri o u s w o u n d s as the

.
,

ho rribl e ca se s o f th e muti la ti o n o f Ato Wa s sa n t he boy ,

wh o se ma st e r a tt e mpt e d t o mu rd e r hi m in t h e B area war ,

a n d o th e rs o f a s imil a r n a tur e I can i n d e e d n ame several

.

wh o h av e su ffe re d a n d re c o v e re d a s A bb a S e yfo on ce a , ,

so ldi e r n o w a C a th o lic P ri e st ; Sh e lika T a mm e ro u & c &c

, ,
. .

B ut th e mo st strik i n g i n sta n c e o f fo rtitud e o f w hich I ever

h e a rd a n d a t t h e sa me time si mil a r a s a cur e t o those j ust
,

cit e d o ccu rre d a fte r a n a cti o n b e l o w A rma t c h o ho be tween

,

a d e ta ch me n t o f t h e Eg ti f c e d m f Ab yssi
yp a n o r s a n s o e o an
’
n i an chi e ft a i n s Th e d e ta il s o f t h e b a ttl e a re u n impo rtant
.

h e re ; su ffi c e it t o say th at fro m so me j e al o u sy an d much

, ,

mi sma n age me n t o f th e Turki sh l e a d e rs th e ir m e n we re di ,

v i d e d a n d b e i n g ta k e n i n c o n fu si o n
, , c o mpl e t e ly route d by
,

t h e A by ssi n i a n s Thi s i s o f c o urse a t e rm i n a ti o n which

.

ra re ly o ccurs wh e re tro o p s e n tire ly a rme d with fire arms and ,

i n so me me a sure di sciplin e d a ft e r th e Euro p e a n fashi on have ,

t o d o with a n irre gul a r fo rc e n e a rly a ll o f w h o m ca rry n o thing

but l a n c e s a n d shi e ld s Th e Aby ssi n i a n s e la t e d with the
.
,

victo ry se t ab o ut t o sl aught e r an d mutil a t e a ll who m they

,

co uld ca tch a fe w o n ly o f th e b e st mo un t e d e s ca ping and a

, ,

fe w gre a t me n b e in g t a k e n pri so n e rs fo r t h e sa k e o f their

ran so m Two n e gro so ldi e rs o f th e Egyp ti an re gular infan
.

t ry thre w th e mse lv e s d o wn a n d fe ign e d t o b e d e ad hoping ,

C H AP . xxx . PH YS I CA L C ON S TI TU TI ON , ds e
’
.
3 89

th e re by t o e sca p e o b se rvati o n : so me A by ssin ian s c o min g up

t o ta k e th e ir t ro phi e s th e se me n a ctu a lly sub mitte d t o th e
,
.

fe a rful o p e ra ti o n with o ut fli n c h i n g o r i n a n y wa y a ll o wi n g ,

th e ir sha m t o b e d e t e ct e d an d e ve n aft e r it wa s d o n e h ad
, , ,

t h e fo rtitud e t o re ma in p e rfe ctly still un til th e ir e n e mi e s ,

w e r e go n e wh e n stra n ge t o r e la te th e y we re a bl e t o ge t up
, , ,

an d cra wl awa y a n d ulti ma t e ly e f

,
fe ct th e ir e sc ap e th o ugh ,

t h e fi e ld o f ba ttl e wa s fa r fro m a n y pl a c e o f sa fe ty Th e re .

i s I b e li e v e n o t t h e slighte st d o ubt o f th e truth o f thi s

, ,

s t o ry ; b o th o f t h e me n re c o v e re d e n tire ly a n d o n e w a s ,

li v i n g at Kha rt o u m wh e n I l e ft tha t pl a c e th e o th e r h a d
die d a sh o rt ti me b e fo re my a rriva l th e re afte r h a vi n g e n
j o y e d p e rfe ct h e a lth fo r se ve ral y e a rs Thu s fa r w ha t I ha v e .

sa i d h a s t e n d e d t o sh o w i n so me re sp e ct s t h e e n d uri n g

p o w e rs o f th e blacks an d th e n ce so me may c o n clud e tha t

,

th e y a re o f re ma rk a bly go o d c o n stituti o n s F o r my p a rt I .
,

a m p e rsu ad e d th a t a Eur o p e a n wh o b e ga n th e ir sy st e m o f
,

li fe ea rly a n d ca rri e d it thro ugh p e rfe ctly wo uld b e a s c a p a bl e ,

o f e n dura n c e o f a n y ki n d a s a sav age

'
F ro m my o wn e x .

p e r i e n c e ,I h a v e r e a s o n t o b e li e v e it t o b e t h e c a s e b e c a u se ,

wh e n i n such tra in i n g I n e v e r fo u n d my se l f i n fe ri o r t o th e m
a t a ll i n th e e n dura n c e o f fa tigu e o r priva ti o n a n d c o uld ,

a l w a ys s ta n d t h e h e a t o f t h e ir c o u n t ry a s w e ll a n d o ft e n

b e tt e r than th e n a tiv e s th e mse lve s .

I n s p e a kin g o f t h e di s e as e s o f A byssi n ia I w o uld b e gi n ,

w i th th e mo s t pre va l e n t Tae n ia o r ta p e wo rm i s o n thi s

.
,
-
, ,

a c c o un t c e rta i n ly th e first t o b e c o n sid e re d fo r t h e wh o l e

, ,

A by ss i n i a n p o pula ti o n may b e sa id t o b e affl ict e d w ith it .

O ut o f ab o v e fo rty p e rso n s ma l e a n d fe mal e wh o m I h a d

, ,

a s s e rv a n t s a t o n e ti me o n ly t w o w e re e x e mpt a n d I sh o uld
, ,

sa y tha t t hi s wa s a ra th e r l a rg e r pro p o rti o n tha n wo uld b e

fo un d in a ge n e ra l a ve rage o f th e p e o pl e Th e c a u se o f .

t h i s c o mpl a i n t h a s b e e n fre qu e n tly ma d e a subj e ct o f spe cu

la ti o n ; by ma n y it h a s b e e n a ssign e d t o th e e a ti n g o f raw
m e a t ; by o the rs aga in t o t h e gre a t qu an tity o f ca y e n n e
,

pp e r u s e d by th e A by ssi n i an s T h e fir s t a pp e a rs th e
p e .

m o re p ro ba bl e but I hav e k n o wn ma n y i n sta n c e s o f p e rso n s

- m se amo n th e n m e
y l f g u b r — wh o h ad e a t e n raw me a t in
 390 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXX .

co n sid e rabl e qu an titi e s w ith impu n ity ; whil e I h a ve heard

o f o th e rs ev en o n e o r t wo
,
Euro p e a n s wh o h a d n ever ,

t o uche d it an d ye t h a d su ffe re d N e arly t wo o ut o f e very

,
.

thre e white me n wh o h av e r e sid e d a fe w m o n th s in the

c o u n try ha ve h a d it a n d ye t fe w o f th e se h a d e a t e n very
,

la rge ly o f th e supp o se d ca u se o f it ; h e n c e I sho uld say

tha t if th e ca u se b e n o t i n th e cli ma te w a t e r o r tefl
, , ,

bre a d it mu st still re main a my ste ry Th e n a tive s are

,
.

i n th e h a bit o f ta ki n g phy sic re gula rly o n c e e ve ry two

mo n th s t o re li e ve th e m o f thi s ma l a dy b ut a s ye t they ,

h a v e n o m e an s o f c o mpl e t e ly curi n g it th e h e a d o f the ,

wo rm (a s th e y say) re ma i n in g a s a ge rm fro m wh ich li nk ,

a ft e r li n k i s fo rme d till a future d o se i s r e quir e d

,
I n thi s .

I b e li e v e Euro p e an d o ct o rs a re n o wi se sup e ri o r t o the

n a tiv e s fo r th e y h a v e l a te ly i n tro duc e d i n t o t h e Pharma
,

c 0 poe ia o n e o f t h e A by s si n i a n me dici n e s c a ll e d k o u sso .

Thi s i s th e fl o we r an d se e d o f a tre e which gro ws abun

d autly in so me pa rt s o f th e co u n try I n A by s s i n ia a supply .

’
sufli c i e n t fo r a ma n s li fe ma y b e pro cur e d fo r t h e valu e

o f 6d whil e i n Euro p e a sin gl e d o se a n d th a t a v e ry small

.
, ,

one , c o sts se ve ral shilli n gs B e si d e thi s t h e A byssin i ans.

,

use t h e b a rk o f a n o th e r tre e a n d th e bulb o us ro o t o f a ,

s mall pl a n t which i f it b e n o t o ur c o mm o n w o o d so rrel

—
, ,

i v e y e a ly a lli e d t o it
s r n r O n e o f th e s e I b e li e ve th e bark
.

— is re cko n e d much mo re e fli ca c i o us th a n t h e ko usso “

,

but is se ld o m u se d fro m b e i n g supp o s e d t o b e highly

,
”
d an ge ro u s in i ts e ffe ct s Th e o n e i s ca ll e d b a s inn a the
“
.
,

o th e r mui t c h a m uit c h o
“
N e ith e r o f th e se
-
h o we v e r i s
.
, ,

u se d wh e n t h e k o us so ca n b e pro cure d Th e dri e d flo wers .

are gr o u n d o r p o u n d e d a s fin e as p o s si b l e a n d a s tro ng ,

i n fu si o n ma de o f which t h e p a ti e n t tak e s m o re tha n half a

,

pi n t fa sti n g A b o ut n o o n whe n it h as ta k e n t h e re quired

.
,

e fle c t a go o d qu a n tity o f b e e r o r t e dge i s c o n s id e re d b e ne
,

fic ial o n which a cc o u n t if th e suffe re r b e a s e rva n t h e begs

, , ,

fo r a supply fro m h i s ma st e r o r a n y fri e n d s w h o may be ,

di n i n g with h im ; c o mi n g ro u n d a t me a l s ho ldi n g i n his ,

ha n d a sma ll cro ss n ra de o f t wo bit s o f stick o r straw and ,

e xcl ai mi n g F o r th e sak e o f M a ry fo r t h e sa ke o f the

“
, ,
39 2 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXX .

I ga v e h im a go o d d o se o f j al a p a n d h e ulti ma t e ly re co vered , ,

tho ugh h e re ma i n e d i n a ve ry we a k sta t e fo r se ve ral days .

Si n c e h is ill n e s s a l mo st a ll o f o ur pe o ple h a v e s u ffe re d more

o r l e ss fro m thi s s ame c o mpla i n t Th e pre v e n t iv e m e dicine
.

which I a llud e d t o i s a s o rt o f ro o t which i s ch e we d in an ,

e a rly s ta ge o f t h e ma l a dy a n d se e m s w h e n t a k e n i n ti me
, , ,

t o b e a c e rta i n a n tid o t e O n e sympt o m i s e x tr e me fumi ness

.

Th e di se a se o f which Mr S a lt (a ide Valen

”
o f t h e t o n gu e . .

’
ti a s Tra ve l s v o l iii p 8 0 ) d o ubt s th e e xi s t e n c e in Abys
,
. . .

si n i a i s u n fo rtu n a t e ly o n ly t o o pre va le n t ; I m yse l f have

tre a t e d man y ca se s o f it ge n e rally with m uch s uccess where
,

it wa s ta ke n in time ; but o cca si o n a lly I ha v e se e n some

—
mo s t h o rribl e i n sta n c e s whe re it h a s b e e n n e gl e cte d living
s p e ci me n s ,
quite a s fe a rful t o b e ho ld a s a n y o f t h e models
’
i n t h e Mu sée d An a t o mi e a t P a ri s Th a t t h e Abyssi nians .

a ppre ci a t e t h e di f fe r e n c e b e twe e n it a n d t h e s c o rbutic aflec

tio n with which Mr Sa lt c o n fo u n d s it i s e vid e n t fro m their
.

”
ha vi n g di sti n ct n a me s fo r it I n Tigre it i s ca l l e d fin tata ;
.

”
i n A mharic kitti n g
,
an d i n th e Ga ll a l a n gu a g e fh n to ,
“
.

I hav e a lre a dy me n ti o n e d tha t a mo n g th e n a t iv e re me dies

t h e fl e sh o r bl o o d o f th e wild b o a r is r e ck o n e d a s o ne ,

p ro ba b ly a s I sa id fro m the ir ha vi n g s e e n t h e la rd used

, ,

by E u ro p e a n s in th e c o mp o siti o n o f m e rcu ri a l o i n tment

Th e y ha v e se ve ra l o th e rs but n o n e pro ducti v e o f go od ,

ef fe ct
. N e a r Me t e mma i n t h e N ubi a n p ro vi n c e o f B e rber
, ,

th e re i s a so rt o f whiti sh co l o ure d e a rth ca ll e d by the -

,

n a tiv e s t o ure yb a which i s u se d a s a me dici n e i n these

,

case s a n d I ha ve b e e n a ssure d (e ve n by so m e European

,

me dica l me n ) with a g o o d re sult : i n Aby s si n i a t h e y po ssess

n o thi n g s o v a lu a bl e Th e re wa s a n o ld A rme n i an named
.

Go rgo rio us (Gre go ry) wh o a d mi n i ste re d t o s u ffe re rs at a

, ,

c o n sid e ra bl e cha rge wha t h e pro fe sse d to b e a c e rtai n cure

,
.

Thi s wa s n o thi n g mo re n o r l e ss than a d o z e n o r t wo pills ,

co n ta i n i n g c o rro siv e subli ma te th e re cip e fo r w hich he no , ,

d o ubt o bta in e d fro m so me qu ack i n Egypt Tho ugh a

, .

ra th e r d a n ge ro u s me dici n e thi s p re pa ra ti o n o f me rcury ,

might i n ma n y ca s e s i f pro p e rly a d mi n i st e re d b e b e n e ficial ;

, ,

but with o ur fri e n d wh o n e ve r tro ubl e d hi mse lf e i ther to

,
C HA P . XXX . PH YS I CA L C ON S TI TU TI ON , Wt .
393

e x a m i n e h i s pa ti e n t o r i n qui re h o w l o n g h e h a s b e e n
,

a fflict e d si mply re c e ivi n g h i s fe e a n d d e siri n g th e su ffe re r t o

,

ta k e so ma n y pe r di e m till t h e b o x was fin i she d it was ,

”
a ca s e o f kill p e rha p s o ft e n e r than o f cure
“
, ,
Th e “
.

n a tiv e s t o o ,
are v e ry d ifl
,
i c ul t t o d e a l with fo r th e y can n o t ,

b e m a d e t o u n d e rsta n d tha t wh e re o n e d o s e will d o th e m ,

g o o d , t w o m a y b e i n juri o u s ; n o r a re t h e bl a ck s w o rse i n

th i s r e p e ct th a t e Turk s Gre e k o Egypti

s n h s r a n,
s— o f which ,

I ha v e h a d man y pro o fs O n e I may re l a t e a s h a vi n g

.
,

o c cu rre d in A by ssi n i a tho ugh th e p e rso n wa s a n A lb a n i an

,

s il v e r smith I h a d b e e n tr e a ti n g h im fo r so me ti me with
.

ca l o m e l pill s o n e gra i n thre e ti me s a da y a n d h e wa s pro

, ,

r s i n g ve ry sa ti sfa ct o rily but b e i n g o blige d t o l e a ve Ad o u a

g es ,

I ga v e h im a sma ll sto ck with p a rticul a r i n structi o n s h o w ,

h e w as t o judge whe n it might b e n e c e s sa ry t o d e cre ase t h e

d o se s & c I l e ft h im i n gre a t go o d hu mo ur with my tre a t
,
.

m e n t a n d pro mi si n g t o o b e y my i n structi o n s c a re fully

, .

’
C a lli n g up o n h i m o n my re turn a fte r a fe w d ay s a b se n c e ,

I wa s to ld by h i s se rvan t th a t h e wa s ve ry b a d i n d e e d an d
o n go i n g t o h i m I fo un d h im in a mo st piti a bl e st a t e o f

s a liv a ti o n a n d i n a tre me n d o u s fri ght

—
B y sign s fo r h e
—
.

co uld n o t sp e a k h e c o n fe sse d t o h avi n g t ak e n d o ubl e

d o se s un d e r th e id e a n o d o ubt tha t h e wo uld re c o v e r in
, , ,

d o ubl e quick ti me
-
I ga v e h im a go o d ra tin g fright e n e d
.
,

h i m a littl e a n d the n re li e v e d h i m fro m h i s su ffe ri n gs with a

,

st ro n g d o s e which so o n se t h i m right aga i n

, .

Th e re i s a so rt o f ho rrible scro ful o u s di se a se i n all th e se

co un tri e s which ca u se s t h e l o ss o f th e h an d s o r fe e t
,
Th e .

p e o pl e o f Se n n ar ca ll it j u d a m I fo rg e t t h e Tigr é n a m e .

E l e p h an tia si s i s n o t so c o mmo n i n Aby ssi n ia as i n th e l o w

la n d s to t h e n o rth n o r i s t h e Guin e a w o rm,
I h av e n e v e r .

s e e n a n y c a se o f th e l a tt e r i n thi s c o u n try e xc e pt i n a ,

p i lgri m w h o wa s m e r e ly p a ssi n g thro ugh I n t h e pro vi n c e s .

”
o f Se n n ar it i s ca ll e d fran ti t e an d i t s o rigi n a ttribut e d to
“
,

th e bla ck s o il o f t h e co un try ; it so me ti me s a pp e a rs i n th e
an us o r b o dy but m o st c o mmo n ly i n th e l o we r p a rt o f t h e
,

le g . Th e o n ly cure i s t o wi n d th e wo rm gra du ally o ut ,

3 94 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . xxx

t aki n g ca re n o t t o bre ak it which a ccid e n t m ight b e pro ,

duc t iv e o f v e ry d an ge ro u s c o n s e qu e n c e s .

Sc a bi e s i s v e ry p re val e n t but I a m d o ubtful i f it is the

,

sam e a s th a t w hich i s c o mmo n with us I t ge n e ra lly fixes .

it se lf o n th e e lbo ws wh e re it fo rms a l a rg e so re difficult

,

e n o ugh t o ge t rid o f It d o e s n o t se e m t o d e p e n d a t all on

.

t h e h a bit s o f t h e p e rso n o r o n c o n tagi o n fo r I h a ve kn own ,

Euro p e an s to ha v e it with o ut a n y assign a bl e ca u se .

Th e va ri o u s fe v e rs o f tr o pica l cli m a t e s a re to l e rably

a bu n d a n t i n A bys si n i a th o ugh pri n cip a lly c o n fi n e d to the
,

lo w ma rs hy di strict s j u st a ft e r t h e c e ssa t io n o f t h e p e ri o dical

rain s Th e n a tive s se e m t o h ave but o n e n a me fo r any
.

fe v e r ca ught in th e ju n gl e w h e th e r it b e c o mmon
i n t e rmi t te n t a gu e o r th e fe a rful bili o u s ju n gl e fe ve r ; while -

th o se o f a lo w typh o id cla ss which o cc a si o n a lly vi sit even ,

t h e mo st e l e va t e d t o wn s o ft e n a s e pid e m ic s a re called
, ,

mi tat Lo ca l bl e e di n gs ap e ri e n t s a n d e m e tic s are ad

“ ”
.
, , ,

mi n i st e re d i n th e se ; fo r a p e ri e n t s th e y h a v e c e rta in herbs ,

but n o t an u n c o mmo n age n t fo r pro duci n g b o th purgative

a n d e me tic e ffe ct s i s a l a rge qu a n tity o f gh e e (cla rified
butt e r) a n d h o n e y D yse n t e ry a n d t h e o th e r c o mpl ai n ts of
.
,

t h e same fa mily are by n o me an s u n c o m m o n

,
Thi s is the .

di se a se wh ich i s mo st fa t al t o Eu ro p e a n s in th e s e c o u n tries :
se v e ra l F re n ch me n h av e di e d o f it in A by s s i n i a Th e n atives .

ch e w a ro o t i n a dditi o n t o t h e a bo v e n a me d m e dici n e s for

,
-
,

t hi s cl a ss o f ma l a dy Th e r o o t h a s a p un ge n t ta s t e b e tween
.
,

gin g e r a n d p e pp e r a n d I re a lly b e li e ve it did m e so m e good

,

o n o n e o cca si o n wh e n n o t b e i n g a bl e t o h a v e re c o urse to
, ,

my o wn d rugs I wa s o blige d to put up with th o se o f the

,

c o u n try Sma ll po x i s I sho uld say n o t so c o mmo n here

.
-

, ,

a s i n man y p a rt s o f th e w o rld : it h a s vi s it e d A byss in i a as ,

a n e pid e mic o n c e o r t wic e i n th e l a st fi ft e e n ye a rs bu

,
t , ,

judgi n g by th e n u mb e r o f th o se wh o b e a r i t s tra c e s I should ,

say n o t v e ry se v e re ly
, .

Vi o l e n t ma d me n a re n o t o fte n se e n i n Tigré: I o n ly saw

o n e ; h e wa s a Mu s sul ma n o f Ad o u a
”
A bl a ck faky (or .
“

Mo hamme d a n pri e st) wh o h app e n e d t o b e p assi n g from

,
396 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXX

p o se d t o b e a stran ge r e mpl o ye d by so me gre a t man who

o we d t h e chi e f a grudge .

I saw an i n stan ce o f t h e po i so n b e in g thr o wn o n a person

which did n o t a t a ll t e n d to pro ve w h a t I v e ry much
—
d o ubt e d n a me ly tha t thi s mo de o f p o i so n i n g wa s po ssible
, .

A fri e n d o f mi n e n a me d Ga bro W e ldy o n e d a y ridi ng out

, ,

i n th e mark e t with h i s a tt e n d a n t s wa s sudd e n ly taken ill ,

a n d o blige d t o go h o me A me ssage w a s bro ught me

.
,

b e ggi n g o f me t o ta k e me dicin e s an d go a t o n c e as he ,

w a s p o i so n e d a n d wo uld sure ly die

, H e w as chi e f o f part .

o f Ad o u a but h a d a riva l w h o m h e h a d s uppl a n te d in the

,

go ve rn me n t a n d i n co n se que n c e live d in pe rp e tua l fear for

,

h i s li fe
. I o b e ye d th e su mmo n s a n d fo u n d my fri e n d lying ,

i n h is h o u se surro un d e d by h i s fri e n d s N a tura lly o f a full .

,

pl e th o ric habit h i s fa ce w as u n u su ally sw o ll e n ; h e fo amed

,

slightly a t th e mo uth a n d se e m e d ra th e r d ull but se nsible

, , .

I mu st say I was puzzle d ; it might b e e pil e p s y o r th e e ffects ,

’
o f a amp a e sold ] a n d I did n t kn o w w h a t t o d o ; so u
'
, n ,

willi n g t o b e a r th e r e sp o n sibility a lt o ge th e r I pro posed ,

givi n g h im an e me tic but e xpla in e d th a t t h e n at ure o f his

, ,

c o mpla in t b e i n g n e w t o me I did n o t pre t e n d t o a n swer for

,

t h e e ffe ct s it might pro duc e H i s re la ti o n s a n d h e hi mself

.

ju mp e d a t th e n o ti o n (whe n e v e r did a n igg e r re fu se to take

t a rta r e me tic o r j a la p a n d I ga v e h i m a pre tty la rge dose

o f t h e fo rme r which cure d h im th o ugh wh y o r wh e re fore l

, ,
’
d o n t pre t e n d to sa y I tri e d to a rgu e tha t po i so n c o uld not
.

h ave b e e n th e ca u se a ski n g th e m h o w a man co uld in

, ,

a cro wd e d pl a c e thro w a p o wd e r o v e r h i s victi m withou

, t
i t s cha n ci n g to a ffe ct e ith e r hi mse l f o r a n y o f t h e bystanders ,

but a ll to n o purp o se p o i so n it wa s a n d I was a wo nderful ,

d o cto r.

Th e p e o pl e o f Wa lka i t a re sa id to b e v e ry s k i l ful po iso nexs

I wa s ca uti o n e d aga in st th e m b e fo re go i n g i n to th e ir co untry ,

a n d c o n so l e d with t h e a ssuran c e th a t I sh o uld n e ve r leave

”
it ; fo r sa id th e p e o ple o f Tigre if th e y lik e yo u they
, , ,

will fo rc e yo u t o st a y a mo n g th e m by m e an s o f m e di cine or
a ch a rm
”
if th e y di slike yo u yo u wi ll d i e I ha ve spoken
, .

o f l o cal bl e e di n g s : th e se a re o f two so rts , o n e wi th and ou t

,
C HAP . XXX . PH YS I CA L C ON S TI TU TI O N , i f c ‘

.
3 97

w ith o ut , th e cuppi n g h o m Th e mo d e o f cuppi n g

a id o f a -
.

i s thu s p e rfo rme d t h e ski n o f t h e pa rt i s ta k e n up b e twe e n

t h e thu mb a n d fo re fin ge r o f th e l e ft h a n d an d a gash h a l f
-
, ,
’
a n i n ch l o n g cut in it w ith a ra z o r ; a sma ll c o w s h o rn with
, ,

t h e p o i n t cut o ff a n d p e rfo ra t e d i s pl a c e d o v e r th e cut , ,

a n d t h e o p e ra t o r s uck s a t th e p o i n t h o ldi n g i n h i s mo uth ,

a s m a ll pi e c e o f ra g o r ch e w e d l e a th e r which with h i s , ,

t o n gu e h e pla c e s o ve r th e o rific e in t h e h o rn e ith e r t o

, ,

e x clud e t h e a ir wh e n h e h a s t o t a k e bre a th o r t o pre v e n t ,

t h e bl o o d e n te ri n g h i s mo uth Th e o th e r pl a n o f bl e e di n g
.

( w ith o ut t h e h o rn ) i s o ft e n u s e d fo r h e a d a ch e s & c w h e r e ,
.
,

t h e bl o o d i s t o b e ta k e n fro m t h e fo re h e a d Th e p a ti e n t .

l a c e s h i s h a n d s o n e b e hi n d e a ch e a r ; a t o urn iqu e t ma d e
p ,

o f a pi e c e o f ra g i s th e n wo u n d ro u n d h i s n e ck an d w ri st s
, ,

a n d tightly c o mpre sse d by me a n s o f a sma ll stick ; thi s o f ,

c o ur se ca u se s th e v e in s in th e fo re h e a d t o swe ll whe n a
, ,

ra z o r i s fil li pe d a cro ss th e e y e br o w pre ci se ly a s w e use ,

a fle a m a n d th e bl o o d fl o w s o ut i n a stre a m to a di s ta n c e o f
,

t h re e o r fo ur fe e t Talki n g o f a fle a m puts me in mi n d
.

o f a pi e c e o f A byssin i an fa rri e ry which ra th e r a mu se d me .

M y fri e n d D ejatch Sh eto u h a vi n g l a me d a fa vo urit e ho rse

,

b y a strai n which h e go t whil e pla yi n g a t go u x l e ft h im ,

”

fo r s o me ti me i n my to wn h o use h o pi n g th a t with re st h e ,

w o uld re c o v e r O n h is re t urn t h e h o rse b e i n g n o b e tt e r

.
, ,

h e s o ught o ut a skilful man wh o u n d e rt o o k t o cur e t h e ,

s t ra in . H e h a d th e h o r se bro ught o ut an d s tro n g c o rd s ,

t i e d o n e so a s t o bri n g h i s hi n d fe e t t o g e th e r an d t h e o th e r
, ,

t h e fo re fe e t ; t h e e n d o f t h e hi n d ro p e wa s th e n p a sse d
b e t we e n th e fo re l e g s an d th a t o f th e fo re ro p e b e tw e e n t h e
,

h i n d l e gs a n d me n pulli n g si multa n e o u sly a t e ach a ll fo ur

, ,

fe e t we re a fte r so me di ffi culty d ra gge d t o ge th e r a n d th e

, , ,

o o r an ima l th ro wn v e ry r o u ghly o n h is sid e t h e fe e t we re

p
t h e n se cure ly ti e d a n d a sto ut wo o d e n b ar pla c e d thro ugh
,

t h e m by which s e v e ra l me n putti n g th e ir sh o uld e rs t o it

, , ,

t h e h o rse was slu n g fe e t upp e rmo st a n d th e n kick e d in t h e ,

rib s by t h e v e t e ri n a ry t o m ak e h im s t ruggl e Th e p ro c e ss .

wa s r e p e a t e d se v e ra l ti me s an d I h e a rd th e m say th a t h e wa s
,

m uch b e tte r b e fo re I l e ft th e co u n try .

 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AR XXX .

To sum up , avo id b a d lo ca liti e s ; fo ll o w a s much po ssible as

th e n a tiv e cu st o ms with re ga rd t o fo o d ; but a b o v e a l l things , ,

b e ab st e mi o us in e v e ry r e sp e ct ; an d a s a g e n e ra l rule if , ,

u sh o uld b e att a cke d by a fe v e r a n e m e tic i s n o t a bad

y o ,

re me dy t o b e gi n with So me p e o pl e are fo r g e n e ra l bl e e ding

.

i n e ve ry cas e th o ugh I b e li e ve o ur n e ighb o urs o ve r the

,

C han n e l are stro n ge r a dvo c at e s fo r s uch a tre a tm e n t than

we are . F o r my o wn pa rt I n e v e r h a v e b e e n bl e d and , ,

I h o p e I n e ve r shall e sp e cia lly i n a h o t cli ma t e Local

, .

bl e e din gs such as th e n a tive s p ra cti se a re o ft e n highly

, ,

a dvan tage o u s ; a n d firi n g with a h o t iro n a t th e ir re com

me n da ti o n may al so b e a do pte d F o r s e v e r e i n fl a mmation .

o f th e b o we l s wh e n yo u can n o t b e a r t o b e t o uch e d o n the

,

p a rt so me b o ili n g wa t e r p o ure d o n it will b e a re ady and

,

e ffe ctiv e b li st e r —a we t ra g b e i n g wra pp e d ro u n d i n a ring

,

t o c o n fi n e th e wa te r wi thi n th e i n t e n d e d li mit s F o r bad .

sn a k e bite s o r sc o rpi o n sti n gs bi n d a b o v e t h e p a rt as tightly

- -
,

a s p o ssibl e an d cut a w a y with a k n i fe

, th e n a pply th e end
o f an iro n ra mro d h e a t e d t o whit e h e a t
,
This o f c o urse l .

me an supp o si n g yo u t o b e in th e b a ck wo o d s o ut o f the ,

re a ch o f me dici n e s A qua fo rti s i s I h a v e h e a rd b e tt e r than

.
, ,

t h e h o t iro n a s it e a t s furth e r in ; a n d fo r mo st s co rpions

,

an d s o me so rt s o f sn a k e s t o rub t h e p a rt s w ith s tro n g sal

,

vo la til e butt e r o f an ti mo n y o r o th e r pre p a ra ti o n o f similar

, ,

e ffe ct wi ll b e su ffici e n t
, With a ll th e se mo d e s o f tre a tment
.
,

i f yo u h a v e t h e me an s ta k e i n t e rn a lly t we n ty fiv e t o thirty
,
-

dro p s o f laud a n u m an d a simila r qu a n tity o f t h e liquid

,

a mmo n ia Th e re are h o we ve r I b e li e ve man y sna k e s whose

.
, , ,

bit e can scarc e ly b e cure d an yh o w .

4o o LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H A P XXXI
. .

tha n o n c e o f she ph e rd s arme d o n ly w i th s tick s a n d stones

, , ,

drivin g awa y li o n s which h a d e n t e re d th e ir fl o ck They .

ha ve an ide a h e re tha t if a tta ck e d with m e t a l w e a p o n s such , ,

a s sp e a rs swo rd s o r gu n s t h e li o n will turn o n h i s assail

, , ,

a n ts but tha t h e will i n va riably t ak e hi m se l f o ff u n re sistingly

i f sticks a n d st o n e s o n ly b e e mplo ye d ag a i n s t h i m The .

hun t e rs a sse rt tha t i n h i s a ttack th e li o n w a lk s o r cre eps up

t o h i s i n t e n d e d victi m till withi n th e di s ta n c e th a t h e can
c o v e r wi th thre e b o un d s an d tha t sh o uld h i s third spring he , ,

e lud e d h e w ill pro b a bly p a ss o n an d n o t a tt e m pt a second

, ,

a tt a ck : thi s th e o ry i s I b e li e ve v e ry littl e t o b e re li e d on
, ,
.

Th e y sa y a l so th a t wh e n o n t h e d e fe n sive i f a man b e the

, , ,

a ggre sso r th e li o n w ill r e tire t wic e ; but i f th e hu n t e r still

, ,

p e rsi st in a dva n cin g h e will n o t sp a re h i m a th ird time,

.

A s re gard s th e e vil th a t li o n s d o i n th e wa y o f ca rrying of

p e o pl e & c th o ugh such ca se s do o cca si o n a lly o ccur they
,
.
, ,

a re v e ry ra re So me h o w o r o th e r Euro p e a n trave ll e rs gene

.
,

ra lly ma n age t o ge t a tta ck e d much o ft e n e r than an y one

l
e e s — a t l e a st so it wa s r e ma rk e d t o me by a re v e re n d mis

s i o n a ry wh o sa id th a t h e h ad se e n m o re a tta ck s by lions
,

re c o rd e d in bo o k s o f trav e l tha n h e h a d e ve r h ea rd o f having

o ccurr e d t o th e wh o l e n a tiv e p o pul a ti o n i n th e sa m e space

o f ti me A mo n g Ea st e rn a n d Africa n n a ti o n s o n e al ways
.

h e ars o f th e wo n d e rful d o in gs o f so me o th e r n a ti o n s a long

wa y o ff st o ri e s o f thi s so rt i f pursu e d wo uld l e a d t h e tra
—
, ,
’
ve ll e r lik e ,
a w ill o th e wi sp in to th e utt e rmo st a n d inner
- -
,

mo st p a rt s o f t h e l a n d ; fo r wh e n h e a rrive s a t th e Spot
wh e re a s wa s first re l at e d t o h i m t h e w o n d e r ha pp e n ed he
, , ,

will o n i n quiry b e t o ld th a t th o ugh d o ubtl e ss th e s to ry was

, , ,

tru e ye t th e sc e n e o f i t s o ccurre n ce wa s n o t the re but some

, ,
’
t e n d a y s j o urn e y furth e r o ff a n d so o n ,
.

I n Abyssin ia fo r in sta n c e th e y t e ll h o w a mo n g t he Gal

, , ,

l as th e re are c e rta i n trib e s a mo n g wh o m t h e b o y s go ou

,
t ,

t o sl a y t h e li o n si n gl e h an d e d an d a rm e d o n ly w ith a small -
,

kn i fe a n d a pi e c e o f stick a fo o t l o n g : t h e s tick b e i ng used

’
lit e rally to s top t/ze l i on s ja w Th e b o y pro vo ke s t h e kingly .

a n i ma l by i n sulti n g e pith e t s till h e spri n g s o p e n m o uthed at ,

h i m wh e n with gre a t d e xt e rity t h e yo u thful hu n t e r thru

, ,
sts ,
C HA P . XXXI . N A TURA L H I S TOR Y
.
40 !

’
hi s p o i n te d stick p e rp e n dicularly be t we e n t h e li o n s j aws ,

w hich cl o si n g o n it are th e re by re n d e re d in n oc u o u s afte r

, , ,

whi ch t h e b o y pro c e e d s d e lib e ra t e ly t o cut hi s thro a t with

hi s kn ife . F an cy a b o y ho ldi n g a li o n with o n e h a n d a n d
c ut ti n g h i s thro a t with t h e o t h e r ! C oeur d e Li o n c o uld n o t
h a ve d o n e it I have o ft e n ask e d h o w it h a pp e n e d that th e
—
.

s po rtsman fo rgo t b ags fo r his cla ws we a p o n s far mo re dan

u n d mo re o ft e n use d by a ll t h e fe lin e trib e th
g e ro s ,
a a n ,

t h e ir tee th Stran ge t o say o ld hun te rs h a ve t o ld me thi s

.
,

s t o ry a n d b e li e v ed it ; an d o the rs se n t e d by ha v e h e a rd i t , ,

a n d n e ve r ra is e d a d o ubt as t o i t s v e ra city I ha ve aske d .

Gall as if th e re we re an y cust o m in th e ir mo d e o f li o n
h un ti ng t o give fo un da ti o n t o such a ro ma n ce ; a n d ha ve
h eard fro m mo re th an o n e tha t tho ugh thi s pra ctice did , ,

n o t o cc ur a mo n g th e m it did amo n g t h e So maul i trib e s

,

S imi larly wh y sho uld I n o t t e ll o f th e Be n i K e lb (So n s o f

,

t h e D o g) wh o se ma l es are d o gs a n d fe ma l es b e a uti ful

, ,

w o me n ; o r o f th e B e n i Te msa h (So n s o f t h e C ro c o d il e ) wh o ,
’
h a ve huma n b o di es but he a d s l i ke tho se o f th e ir a n c e st o r s
,

fam il y . Sure ly i f caught th e y wo uld b e c o ns id e re d ve ry

, ,

a ve h e ard o f th e fo rme r o f
”
g r e a t
“
li o ns i n th e ir wa y I h .

t h ese na t i o n s i n a l mo s t e ve ry c o u n try th a t I h a ve v is it e d in
Afri ca fro m Egypt to t h e Whit e N ile i n cludi n g K o rd o fan
, ,

i n A b yss i n i a a n d e ve n i n A rabia whithe r th e ir fa me h a s

, ,

b e e n carri e d do ubtl e ss by p ilgri ms

,
Th e y a re by mo st .
, ,

b e l i e v ed to e xi st n e ar th e F e rti t c o u n try (so uth o f Da rfo ur) ,

wh ere th ere are c o pp e r mi n e s an d t h e p e o pl e o f w hich file

-
,

t h e ir te e t h t o p o i n t s saw fas hi o n ,
Th e y are sa id (tha t i s .

t h e So ns o f th e Do g) t o b e as h o spita bl e a s t h e so n s o f A da m ,

o r mo re so ; s tra n g e rs are w e ll re c e iv e d an d e n t e rta i n e d by

t h e wo men whil e t h e d o gs go o ut b rin g ga me fa wn o n

, , ,

t h e m an d o ffe r th e m a ll so rt s o f ca n in e we lco me
,
B ut o f .

on e t h ing th e tra ve ll e r mu st b e ca uti o u s — th e B e n i K e lb a re

l d d th ir f li n g s o n thi s p o i n t must i n n o wa y
j ea o u s o g s an e
, e e

b e tri fle d wi th o r th e rash t ra ve ll e r will sta n d c o n side rabl e

,
’
cha n c e o f b e i n g lite rally ma d e do g s me a t o f I h av e ”
-
.

q u es t i o n e d m an y F e rt i t sl a ve s a n d th e y b e li e v e fully in t h e
,

existe nce o f th is ra c e but pla c e th e ir wh e re ab o uts a t n i n e o r

,

2 D
40 2 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C HAP . XXXI .

’
te n d y j urn e y t o th e so u th we st o f th e ir c o u n t ry Of the
a s o -
.

B e n i Te msah I h ave h e a rd littl e but sh o uld b e so rry to ,

vi sit th e ir t e rrito ry (which i s sa id t o li e so m e w h e re in the

i n t e ri o r) l e st I sh o ul d me e t with a cro co dil e e mbra ce and a
,

cro c o dil e la me n ta ti o n fo r my fa t e Th e sa yin g by th e way .

, ,
’
of cro c o dil e s te a rs i s n e a rly a s co mmo n am o n g t h e Arabs
o f t h e Whit e N ile a s wi th us a t l e as t t h e o ri gi n o f it ; for ,

th e y p o sitive ly a sse rt tha t th e b e as t ha v in g dro wn e d its ,

v icti m tucks h im u n d e r i t s arm a n d c a rri e s h i m o ff t o so me

, ,

l o n e ly san dba n k wh e re pre vi o u s t o e a tin g h i m it sheds

, , ,

man y t e a rs o f so rro w .

Tho ugh th e digre ssi o n fro m o n e so rt o f li o n t o th e o ther

may b e so me wha t un p a rd o n a bl e ye t I thi n k th a t having , ,

c o mmitte d th e fault I may ju st a s w e ll go o n w ith it There

, .

i s n o tribe i n thi s p art o f Africa in d e e d s c a rc e ly a n indi ,

vi du al but b e li e v e s i n t h e e xi ste n c e o f a ra c e o f m e n with

,

t ail s F o r my o wn p a rt I h ave h e a rd so m uch o f th e m that

.
,

I c an sca rc e ly h e lp fan cyi n g that the re m u s t b e so me funda

me n ta l re a s o n fo r such v e ry ge n e ra l b e li e f So me o f the .

A by ssi n i a n s ha ve d e cl a r e d tha t a mdn g t h e pe o ple wh o m we ,

.

hav e c all e d B are a o r B aza th e re is a tri b e o r district ca lled

, ,

l i ra t a n t
,
h e p e o pl e o f which h a v e ta il s a n d a r e ca nn ibal s ; ,

th e y a re sa id to li e so me wh e r e n o rth o f t h e B a re a ; but here

aga i n t h e w o n d e r hu n t e r wo uld b e n o n plu ss e d fo r th e p eo le
p
-

o f Taka a n d th a t n e i ghb o u rh o o d ( which w o uld b e i n the

—
dire cti o n i n dic a t e d) th o ugh a ll b e li e v e i n t h e e xi st e n ce of
such a r c e u d e r an o th e r n a me
a n — s o m e d e cl are th a t they

a re s o uth o f t h e B az a o r n e a r t o A byss i n i a a n d o th e rs that

, ,

th e y a re in th e c e n tre o f A frica Thi s l a tt e r l o cali t y a pp ears .

,

i n d e e d to b e th e re c e pta cl e o f a ll th e se [m i na t ur e A
, .

m a n wh o m I m e t in A byssi n ia amu se d m e m uch wi t h some

o f h is id e as o n th e s e subj e ct s h e wa s o n e o f t h e h a n d so mest
bl a ck s I e v e r saw a n d h a d ju st a rri ve d fro m K o rd o fan on
, ,

h i s way t o th e Ga ll a trib e s a s h e sa id but i n truth I fancy

, , , ,

o n a v o ya g e o f sp e cul a ti o n an ywh e re H e wa s a clever . .

i magi n a tiv e fe ll o w an d c o n sid e re d him se l f a l e a rn e d man

, .

”
b e i n g a faky o r p ri e st A s i s o fte n t h e c ase ho wever
“
, .
,
.

t a l e n t with o ut much judgme n t an d e xp e ri e n c e a n d a id ed by ,

40 4 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C R A P xxxi
. .

we n t o ut th e littl e childre n ca me a bo ut hi m p o ki ng him ,

with th e ir fin ge r s i n th e rib s fe e lin g h i s a rms a n d l e gs and

, ,

mutte ri n g to o n e a n o th e r Wa wa wa wa , (m e a t me at)
-
,
-
, ,

with th e ir mo u t h s wa t e ri n g a n d the ir fe a t ure s e xpr e ssive of

,

th e gre a t e st p o ssibl e i n cli n a ti o n t o ta st e h im .

To re t u m t o fo ur fo o te d li o n s
-
I ha v e n o thin g mo re to
.

say a b o ut th e m but tha t th e killi n g o n e o f th e m ra n ks as

,

e qu a l t o ki lli n g twe n ty me n i n thi s co u n try Le o p a rd s (or .

p an th e rs P) are fre qu en tly t o b e me t with i n all parts of

A byssi n i a th e y are ca ll e d n e b ry i n th e Tigre l a n gu a e The g .

n a tiv e s o ccas i o n a lly sna re th e m i n a ra th e r a rtful mann e r .

A ro p e with a run n i n g n o o s e i s ti e d t o t h e b o gh o f a tre e

p ,

which i s by ma i n fo rc e drawn d o wn t o ward s t h e gr o u n d ;

th e r o p e i s th e n fix e d by a c o n ni van c e so a rran ge d that
,

wh e n th e l e o p a rd a tt e mpt s t o se iz e t h e b ait ( u s u a lly a la mb)

h e i s ca ught in th e n o o se by th e n e ck a n d w h e n h e mo ve s , ,

s e tti n g t h e ro p e fre e a t th e gro u n d th e b o ugh s pri n gs up ,

i n to i t s o rigi n a l p o siti o n a n d han gs h im I k ill e d se ve ral

, .
,

an d pre se rve d fo urt e e n b e a uti ful ski n s so m e o f v e ry l arge ,

siz e but th e s e we re a ll d e stro y e d with t h e u n fo rtu n a t e c o l

,

l e cti o n I se n t t o A d e n Th e bl ack le o pa rd i s fo un d mo stly

.

in th e Ga lla c o u n tri e s h i s skin i s wo rn b y gre at chi e fs in

‘

b a ttl e b e in g ra re e x p e n sive an d v e ry b e a uti ful It is o f the

, , , .

d e e p e st cho co la te bro wn with sp o t s o f a d a rke r c o lour

, ,
’
a l mo st bl a ck Th e o rdi n a ry l e o p a rd s i s (a s I ha v e b e fore
.

sa id ) w o rn o ut by t h e Za c c h ari Th e re i s a n a n imal which

.
,

I kn o w n o t wh e re t o cl ass a s n o Eu ro p e a n h as hith e rto suc

,

c e e de d i n o bta i n i n g a sp e ci me n o f it it i s s upp o s e d by the

n a tiv e s t o b e far mo re a ctive p o we rful a n d d a n g e ro u s than
, ,

e v e n th e li o n a n d c o n se qu e n tly h e ld by th e m i n t h e r t st
, g e a e

p o ssibl e dre a d The y c all it wo b b o o r m an t illit and

.
,
”

so me h o ld it i n sup e rstiti o u s awe l o o ki n g up o n it mo re in ,

’
t h e li ght o f an e vil spirit with an a n i m a l s fo rm th an as a
w ild b e a st . The ir d e scripti o n s o f thi s a n ima l a re vague in
t h e e xtr e me so me sa y th a t i t s skin i s p a rtly th a t o f a lion ,

but in t e rmixe d with th a t o f th e l e o p ard a n d hyaen a o thers ,

a ga i n a ss e rt th a t i ts fa c e i s hu ma n o r v e ry lik e it
, It ap
, .

p e a rs in t h e va ll e ys, happily o n ly rare ly fo r t h e y say that

,
C HA P . x xx i . N A TUR A L H I S TOR Y .
4 5
0

wh e n it t ak e s i t s ab o de n e a r a village it p ays n ightly vi sit s , ,

e n t e ri n g t h e v e ry h o u se s a n d ca rryi n g o ff th e childre n a n d
, ,

e v e n o cca si o n al ly gr o wn up p e rso n s On e h ad b e e n k ill e d

-
.

so m e y e a rs ago o n t h e riv e r We rre y a n d i t s ski n pre se n t e d ,

t o Oubi but I c o uld n e v e r di sc o v e r wh at b e came o f it I .

h e a rd o f a vill age which h ad suffe re d c o n sid e rably fro m i t s

d e pre d a ti o n s a n d fo r s e v e ra l d ay s wa tch e d e ve ry n ight i n
,

t h e n e ighb o urh o o d b ut with o ut succ e ss

,
.

Th e n e b ry guo lguo l i s a pre tty littl e an imal rath e r ,

la rge r than a wild c at an d ma rk e d like a l e o pard o n ly tha t

, ,

i t s sp o t s a re pla i n da rk bl o tch e s an d n o t an n ul a r ro se tte s ,

.

Th e re are two o r thre e so rts o f wild ca ts which a ttai n to a ,

c o n sid e rabl e siz e (th e y a re mo stly o f a gr e yi sh c o l o ur) a n d ,

o n e o r two va ri e ti e s o f lyn x e s Th e civ e t ca t i s I sh o uld

.
,

fa n cy a n a tive o f thi s c o u n try th o ugh ra re fo r I h av e n e ve r

, , ,

me t with it o r e ve n he ard o f it wild but t h e n e ighb o urin g

, ,

G a ll a trib e s k e e p it fo r th e sa k e o f th e mu sk (o r civ e t) a ,

l a rge qua n tity o f which p a sse s an n ually o n i ts way to t h e

c o a st an d ultimat e ly t o Arabia Egypt an d I n dia Th e sce n t
, , , .

i s me re ly a se cre ti o n which e xud e s at ce rta in p e ri o d s fro m

,

b e t we e n t h e l e gs o f t h e an i ma l ; it i s scra p e d o ff a n d pre
s e rv e d an d fe tch e s a high pric e a t Ma ssawa a dri n ki n g h o rn
, ,
-

full c o sti n g fro m thi rty t o fo rty d o lla rs Th e me rch an t s so me .

ti m e s e n d e a vo ur to smuggl e i n small qu an titie s o f thi s pre .

c i o us a rticl e b ut se ld o m succ e e d i t s p o we rful o d o ur ge n e ra lly

, ,

t e lli n g ta l e s e ve n i f th e h o rn which co n tai n s it b e c o n ce al e d

,

i n a la rge ca k e o f wa x I wa s surpri se d wh e n i n C airo at

.
, ,

fi n din g it so ld a t e ve n a l e ss price than a t M a ssawa ; but o n

i n v e stigati o n di sc o v e re d tha t n o n e l e ave s J idd a till it h as
d o ubl e d i t s bulk by a dult e ra ti o n with o il a n d o th e r i n gre
d i e n ts Th e rg are s e v e ra l va ri e ti e s o f th e ca n i n e sp e ci e s
. .

F irs t a s b e i n g t h e l a rge st i s th e mi ssha p e n di sgu sti n g

, , , ,

l a ughi n g hyae n a ca ll e d in Tigre z ib b y

,
”
— i n Amharic , ,

j ib h e i s to b e fo u n d a l mo st e v e rywh e re in th e c o u n try ,

b ut fro m h i s sc av e n ge r h a bit s chi e fly i n th e mo s t thickly

, ,

p e o pl e d di strict s H e pro wl s ab o ut t h e stre e t s o f th e vil

.

l a ge s ho wli n g l aughi n g an d q ua rre lli n g with t h e d o gs with

, , , ,

w h o m h e di spute s p o sse ssi o n o f th e o ffal an d e ve n e n t e rs ,

406 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CH A R XXXI .

th e ya rd s an d h o u se s in qu e st o f an yt h i n g e a ta bl e n o r is b e ,

i f hu n gry) v e ry ch o ic e in h i s se l e cti o n o f a s upp e r h e will

(
st e a l l e a th e rn b a gs a n d pi e c e s o f ski n s s uch a s a re u se d for ,

we a ri n g o r sl e e pi n g o n I ha v e fre que n tly b e e n di s turbe d by

th e m in thi s man n e r an d it o n c e o ccu rre d t o m e a s it has
, ,

o ft e n t o p e o pl e wh o m I h a ve k n o wn t o b e a w a k e n e d by o ne ,

o f th e m e n d e a v o uri n g t o st e a l my le a th e m b e d fr o m under

me . Luckily th e y are a s c o wardly as th e y a re big stro ng

, , ,

an d ugly fo r h a d th e y o n ly t h e pluck o f a t o y t e rri e r there

, ,
-
,

wo uld b e n o livi n g i n a c o un try so full o f th e m N e ve rthe .

l e ss th e y are said t o a tta ck childre n a n d w e akly p e rso ns

, .

Th e y a re supp o se d t o b e abl e t o d e t e ct a fa i n t an d we ari ed

w a yfa re r by th e sme ll o f h i s fo o tst e p s a n d t o fo ll o w h im till , ,

o v e rc o me by fa tigu e h e sh all fa ll a n e a sy pre y o r t ill sl ee p

, ,

sh a ll giv e th e m a n o pp o rtun ity Th e y ha v e e v e n be e n kn o wn .

t o a tta ck p e rso n s asl e e p i n th e ir o wn h o u s e s A livi n g evi .

d e n ce o f thi s i s t o b e se e p in t h e p e rso n o f a y o un g Mo ham

me dan n o w re sidi n g a t A d o ua wh o wa s ro bb e d o n e n ight
, ,

o f t h e s c a lp o f o n e sid e o f h i s h e a d Th e A by ssi n i a n s re late .

th a t i n s uch ca se s (which are c o mp a ra tiv e ly ra re ) t h e h ymna

sh o w s q uit e a s much pr ud e n c e a s v a l o ur fo r th e y assert ,

p o sitiv e ly tha t b e fo re a tta cki n g a h e a lthy s l e e p e r h e will

scra tch h i m with h i s pa w ; i f t h e ma n s l e e p h e av ily as is
(
o ft e n t h e c a se i n thi s c o u n try t o a n a l m o st w o n d e rful d e gre e)
, ,

t h e b e a st w ill mak e o n e gra b w ith h i s p o w e rful j a w s a t his

fa c e o r h e a d a n d b e o ff ; wh e re a s i f di s turb ed by the
, ,

s cra tchi n g t h e sl e e p e r sh o uld sta rt up h e w ill turn ta il at

, ,

o n c e l e a vi n g b e hi n d m o st di sagr e e a bl e e vid e n c e s o f a highly

,

n e rv o u s t e mp e ra me n t H e i s d a n ge ro u s a m o n g d o me stic
.

an i m a l s a n d fr e qu e n tly a tta ck s d o n k e y s o r m ul e s
, Q ucc I .

wa s sl e e pi n g o n t h e Whit e N il e we we re a rge p arty and

k
fo r fe a r o f li o n s & c h a d t e th e r e d o ur a n i ma l s i n a n Open
.
,

, ,

s p a c e whil e w e o u rse lv e s sl e pt i n a circl e a ll ro u n d them

,

with fi re s ligh te d I n t h e middl e o f th e n ight w e w e re dis

.

”
t urb e d by a gre a t kick up an d o n rubbin g o ur e y e s made , ,

t h e di sc o v e ry tha t a hyae n a h a d h a d t h e i m pud e n c e t o come

i n t o th e mid st o f us se iz e my fa v o urit e d o n k e y by t h e rump
, ,

a n d dra g h i m a l mo s t o ut o f t h e circl e o f t h e ca m p It would .

 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXXI .

an d th e wh o l e fin i sh e d o fl with a pai r o f e a rs e qu a l in length

a n d br o a d e r th a n th o se o f t h e fi n e s t h a r e tha t was ever

c o urse d Th e se so me wha t awkward a ppe n d a ge s h e always

.

k e pt flat o n h i s ba ck wh e n e xcite d e ith e r by fe a r o r anger ,

se e mi n g t o use th e m o n ly a s sub sti t ut e s fo r h i s e ye s when

th e se we re cl o se d in sl e e p To co mpl e t e h i s d e s cri pti o n he

.
,
’
h a d a tric o l o ur e d t ail which wa s se t o n j u s t lik e a hyaena s
, ,

ha n gi n g d o wn l o o se ly b e hi n d h im d ar k a t t h e s tump then , ,

whit e an d t h e tip gr e y To a cco un t fo r h i s pe rp e t ua l t hin n ess

, .
,

it o n ly re quire s t o sta t e h is mo d e o f fe e di n g H e w o uld take .

a huge pi e c e o f me a t o r o ffa l a n d put it in t o h i s s t o ma ch at

,

o n ce se e mi n gly e n tir e fo r h e n e ve r a pp e a r e d a wa re that his

,

wo n d e rfully mu scul a r j a ws an d d o ubl e ro w o f t e e t h we re at

a ll a va il a bl e fo r ma stica ti o n Havi n g thu s b o lt e d h i s di n ner
. ,

h i s b e lly b e ca me di st e n d e d till it n e a rly t o uc h e d t h e gro und ,

a n d t h e n h e w o uld go an d li e d o wn fo r t we n ty fo ur h o urs or -

mo re a cc o rdi n g t o t h e qua n ti ty h e h a d e a t e n afte r which

,

h e wo uld re t urn t o b e fe d as e mpty a n d s ta rve d lo o kin g as

,
-

e v e r Th e A bys si n i a n s say th a t th e se a n i ma l s hu n t i n p acks

.
,

a n d th o ugh c o mp a ra tiv e ly sl o w in th e ir p a c e
,
s ucc e e d in ,

bri n gi n g d o wn th e ir pre y by p e rse ve rin gly fo ll o win g i t s tra ck

fo r d ay s a n d d ays Th e y e v e n a sse rt tha t n e ith e r th e e l e phant
.

n o r bu f fa l o i s safe fro m th e ir a tta ck s th a t if th e y find

o n e a sl e e p th e y fa ll up o n h im i n n u m b e rs a n d s e iz e fast ,

h o ld o n th e t e n d e re st pa rt s o f h i s b e lly th e a n i mal thu s dis ,

agr e e a bly r o u s e d fro m h i s slu mb e rs s ta rt s up an d l ashes ,

a b o ut with t h e p a i n a n d fury B ut n o thi n g c a n di s l o dge his

.

littl e p e rse cuto rs wh o h o ld o n lik e l e e che s till th e v ictim

, , ,

h avi n g w o rn hi mse lf o ut with pa ssi o n an d e xe rtio n sinks ,

e x h a u st e d Th e fo rme r o f th e s e sta t e m e n t s i s I d o ubt not

.
, ,

c o rr e ct th e l a tt e r pro bably fo u n d e d o n fa ct I tri e d se veral .

e xp e ri m e n t s with To kla i n th e se ma tt e rs a n d fr o m them ,

fo rme d my o pi n i o n O n ce I re me mb e r b e i n g a ttra ct e d into

.

t h e ya rd by a bu s tli n g n o i se o f an i ma l s ru n n i n g abo ut ,
’
i n te rmix e d with my p e t s shrill squ e aki n g v o ice O n going , .

o ut n o thi n g was a pp a r e n t but a sh e e p l a t e ly b o ught for

di n n e r which h o we v e r wa s run n in g a b o ut with e ve ry a ppear

, ,

a n c e o f n e rv o u s n e s s Wh e re wa s To kla wh o se v o ic e I had
.
,
C HAP . XXXI . N A I UR A L H I S TOR Y
.
4 9
0

ju st h e ard utte rin g n o te s o f u n usu a l e xcite me n t Lyi n g

qui e tly ro lle d up in a c o rn e r shammin g sl e e p but pe e pi n g , ,

at m e fro m t h e c o rn e r o f o n e o f h i s littl e wick e d bla ck e ye s .

I sa id n o t hin g but co n c e al e d myse lf in a sh e d t hro ugh th e

, ,

bran che s th at fo rme d th e sid e s o f which I co uld o b se rve all

t ha t p a sse d F o r a sho rt time t h e littl e brute lay mo ti o n l e ss
.
,

i n th e sa me p o siti o n a s I h a d l e ft h im ; afte r a whil e h o w ,

e ve r h e go t up st ea lthily s tr e tchin g hi mse l f a s i f ju st awa k e

, , ,

b ut a t t h e same time taki n g a furtive gl an ce t o se e th a t a ll

was qui e t H avi n g sati sfie d himse l f o n thi s p o i n t h e mad e
.
,

a ru sh a t th e p o o r sh e e p with h i s e a rs ba ck a n d squ e a ki n g
,

h o rribly Th e she e p ran away wh e n it co uld o n ly sta n din g

.
,

a n d butti n g a t i t s littl e O pp o n e n t wh e n driv e n i n t o a

c o m e r a n d e vid e n tly i n a d e sp e ra te frigh t
,
To k la se e me d .

t o h e e d littl e wh e th e r h e e l s o r h o rn s me t h i s a dva n c e s but ,

ke pt on n o w ru shi n g furi o u sly i n n o w d o dgi n g fo r a mo re

, ,

fa v o urabl e o p e n in g i n ce ssa n tly fo r n e arly hal f an h o ur

, I .

d o ubt n o t th o ugh scarc e ly six p o u n d s we ight h e wo uld

, ,

h a v e e n d e d by wa lki ng i n to tlze mutton o f h i s a dv e rsa ry

“
,
’
h a d I n o t fe lt c o mp assi o n fo r th e p o o r sh e e p s me n tal
suffe ri n gs an d di sturb e d my littl e fri e n d i n h i s pursuit
, .

I n d e e d I co uld n o t hav e allo we d h im to i n dulge h i s sp o rti n g

,

o p e n siti e s s o l o n g as h e did e xce pti n g as a study o f h i s

p r ,

n a tural id e a s man n e rs a n d cu sto ms

,
Th e sh e e p b e it
, .
,

re me mb e r e d wa s n o t a fa t u n wi e ldy Le ic e st e r but a gre a t ,

, ,

b o n y a ctive b rut e mo re lik e an e xagge rate d fo re st e r

, , In .

’
re ga rd to thi s an i mal s p o we rs o f t e n acity a fri e n d o f mi n e , ,

kn o wi n g th a t I was fo n d o f p e t s o n c e bro ught me a y o u n g ,

c k al which h e h a d kn o ck e d o ve r with a stick o r st o n e th e

j a , ,

a n i ma l b ein g at t h e ti me su rfe it e d w ith an e n o rmo u s di n n e r

o f loc ust s h e h ad ju st ea te n F ro m th e h e lpl e ss a pp e a r

.

a n c e h e pre se n t e d I fe a re d h e wa s much h urt a n d ma d e

, ,

h i m a co mfo rta bl e b e d o f c o tto n wo o l in a c o m e r pla ci n g ,

fo o d an d wa t e r by h im H e re main e d all tha t day wh e re

.

h e wa s a pp a re n tly i n gre a t su ffe ri n g an d c o n ti n u e d so fo r

, ,

s o m e ti me but to my asto n i shme n t risin g e arly o n e m o m ,

i n g I fo u n d th a t h e an d To kla h ad e n t e r e d in to an alli an c e
,

m o st o ffe n sive t o th e fo wl s o n e o f which th e y h ad cau! t , ,

4 10 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CH AR XXXI .

an d we re draggi n g ab o ut th e —
o n e h o ldi ng by
y rd t h e
a

a fo o t th e o th e r by a w in g
,
Th e mo m e n t I a pp eared
.
,

Go be ro (t h e j a cka l) l e t go t h e fo wl an d li m p e d b a ck to his
c o rn e r a re tu rn o f h i s suffe rin gs ha vi n g it w o uld appear
, , ,

c o me o n To kla mo re d e te rmi n e d I h a d t o b e a t o fl which

.
, , ,

I did with gre at di ffi culty a n d n o t un til th e p o o r fo wl was

,

s o l a c e rat e d th a t I wa s c o n stra i n e d t o kill it Excit e d by its .

d e ath struggl e s h e a gai n l a id ho ld an d thi s ti m e I d e te rmined

, ,

t o se e h o w l o n g h e w o uld do so so I h e l d up t h e fo wl with

h im d an gli n g t o it s w i n g till I wa s t ire d a n d th e n swung him ,

ro u n d an d ro u n d o v e r an d o ve r in ho p es o f h i s j a ws ti ring
, ,
.

B ut i n thi s I wa s di sa pp o in t e d fo r h e h e l d o n till th e wing

,

bre a kin g o ff thre w h im he a vily o n t o h is b a ck t o a di stance

o f s e v e ra l ya rd s Eve n in h is fall h e w a s gre a t fo r be
.
,

n e ith e r utt e re d a so u n d o f pa i n n o r l o o s e n e d h i s h o ld but

, ,

g e tti n g up sta lk e d away quit e pro udly with th e wi n g in his

mo ut h . I wa s so much pl e a se d with h im tha t I ga ve him
t h e b o dy an d a ll ; i n thi s p e rha p s I a ct e d wro n g fo r we
, , ,
’
a ft e rwa rd s fo u n d th a t if we did n t kill a ll t h e p o ul try he

wo uld an d so I ga v e up e v e r k e e pin g a n y mo re
,
Poor .

littl e To kla ! I gre w v e ry fo n d o f h i m fo r tho ugh ro ugh , ,

a n d ugly h e h a d such pre tty

,
—
wi n n i n g wa ys h e se e med
,
’
a l wa y s hu n gry a n d w o uld o ft e n b it e p e o pl e s l e gs o ccas i on
, ,

a lly my o wn n o t a t a ll fro m vic e but s h e e r a pp e tit e

, , .

The re are thre e o r fo ur so rts o f j a ck a ls i n Abyss i n ia The .

c o mmo n gre y o n e i s fo u n d e ve rywh e re ; a n o th e r i s larger

.

a n d o f a bright ch e sn ut a n d gre y c o l o ur whil e th a t o f Si myen ,

i s y e ll o w . La st o f t h e c an i n e sp e ci e s a re thre e v a ri e ti e s of
d o me stic d o gs : o n e o f th e se th e small e st i s n o t un like the
, ,

c o mmo n t o wn d o gs all o ve r th e Ea st b o th in a pp ea rance ,

a n d h a bit s th o ugh t h e d o g s h e re fo r t h e m o st p a rt h ave a

, , ,

so rt o f cl a i m o n so me ma st e r ; t h e n e xt i s l a rge r a n d well

b uilt so me thi n g re se mblin g a ve ry p o we rful gr e yh o und or

,

d e e rh o u n d thi s so rt i s n o t c o mmo n an d i s much e ste emed ,

.

The y are e asily ta ught t o hu n t a n d a re fre qu e n t ly e mployed

,

i n ca tchi n g gr o u se as we ll a s fo ur fo o t e d gam e M d A bb adie

’
-
. . ,

o n h i s r e turn t o Euro p e bro ught o n e with h i m

, which (if I ,

re n e mb e r right m m
g ) h e t o ld e w a s a a tch fo r i a wild b o ar .
41 2 LI F E I N A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . xxxr .

fo r whip s to driv e a way fli e s Th i s i s quit e tru e i n Darfour

.

a n d K o rd o fan , an d ma y h a ve b e e n s o fo rm e rly i n A byssinia ;

but n o w i n Tigre, fro m t h e sca rcity o f th e gira ffe , ho rse hair -

i s mo r e i n vo gue Th e p ri e st s an d ge n tl e m e n a lmo st always

.

ca rry a whip o f thi s ki n d mo stly ma de o f w hit e ho rse hair

,
-

s ta i n e d re d with h e n n a I have me n ti o n e d th a t th e horns

.

o f t h e rhi n o c e ro s are u se d fo r swo rd hilt s -

.

Th e hipp o p o tamu s i s fo u n d i n th e Ta c ca z y b ut I believe ,

n o wh e re e l se i n Tigr e Th e l ak e T z a n a a n d o th e r waters of
.

t h e A mhara c o u n try are pl e n ti fully st o ck e d with thi s animal ;

the re i s a tribe cal le d C o mmaun t that s ub sis ts e n tire ly on
fish an d th e fl e sh o f th e hipp o p o tamus t h e hi d e i s u se d for
maki n g whip s . Th e Abyssi n ia n s ma ke th e ir ha rlingas
with a hipp o p o ta mus hid e st o ck an d a pla i n shre d of
-
,

l e a th e r fo r a th o n g ; while th e so te o r c o urb at ch o f the

Whit e N il e an d Se n n ar is a si n gl e pi e ce o f th e so li d skin ,

cut ro u n d an d tap e ri n g to a p o i n t so a s t o re se mble our ,

o rdi n a ry stra ight ridi n g whip s -

.

The re are t wo va ri e ti e s o f C yn o ce p h a li o r d o g faced ,

-

bab o o n s ; a small gre e n i sh gre y mo n ke y w ith a bla ck face

-
,
”
a n d w hit e whi sk e rs ; a n d t h e g o r e a T h i l t i I
yz s as s .
,

s h o uld thi n k o n e o f th e m o st b e auti ful o f t h e m o n k e y tri be ;

,

i t s ba ck an d h e a d a re c o ve re d with sh o rt je t bla ck glo ssy ,

-
,

fur whil e i t s sid e s a n d ch e e k s are furn i sh e d with s ilky hair

,

o f t h e pur e s t white i ts ta il i s v e ry l o n g a n d with a bu sh of ,

whit e h a ir at th e e n d thi s a n d th e ha ir o f t h e sid e s i s se veral

i n ch e s in le n gth Th e go re yz a i s to b e fo un d i n so me parts
.

a ddy a n d Wa lka i t n o t pro p e rly s p e a ki n g

o f Tsaj ( , ) i n T ig rt .

I o bta i n e d se v e ral sp e cime n s man y ve ry fin e o n e s whi ch , , ,

h o we v e r we re rui n e d a t A d e n Th e y fre qu e n t t h e high

, .

tre e s a bo ut church e s a n d o n thi s a cco un t t h e p e o pl e made

,

so m e di fficulty a b o ut th e ir b e i n g kill e d th e y are ve ry active ,

a n d wh e n spri n gi n g fro m b o ugh t o b o ugh

, t h e s ilv e ry fringe ,

o f th e ir sid e s fl a ppi n g o ut giv e s th e m al mo s t t h e appear .

a n c e o f b e i n g wi n ge d .

Th e re are ma n y va ri e ti e s o f an te l o p e s t h e l arge st is the

a ga zi n
(k o o d o o P) it i s n e a rly t h e s i z e o f a s m a ll c o w of ,

a dun c o l o ur with n a rro w whit e strip e s d o wn t h e s id e s and

, ,
C H A P XXXI
. N A TUR A L H I S TOR Y .
413

), wadd e mb y
“
lo n g pira l h o rn s
s to ra (h a rt e b e e st e P

(g )
n u b o
, h o r “
,
” “
c a llb a do u,
” “
m e da uqua or me yda ,
” ”
sassh a, a n sh o n , r l o the rs Th e sa ssh a i s
a n d se v e a .

fo un d a l mo s t e n tire ly o n th e ro cky mo u n ta i n s it i s o f t h e
s iz e o f a go a t with stra ight h o rn s a b o ut fo u r i n ch e s l o n g
, ,

an d i t s ha ir i s o f a gre yi sh c o l o ur a n d re se mbl e s t h e quill s o f

a h e dge h o g in sti ffn e ss .

I fo u n d two ki n d s o f ha re s th e y are light e r c o l o ure d an d

sma ll e r t h an th e E n gli sh o n e a n d th e ir e a rs are bro a d e r
,

an d l o n ge r in app e a ran c e th e y p a rt a ke so much o f t h e h are

a n d ra bbit t ha t I sh o uld b e a t a l o ss t o d e cid e which o f th e
”
tw o th e y re a lly we re Th e c o n y “
as hk o k o
. a b o u n ds i n, ,

t h e ro ck s o f th e n o rth e rn qu o lla s T h e p o rcupi n e h e dg e .

,

h o g a so rt o f squirre l th e ich n e u mo n an d mo st o f th e o th e r
, , ,

v ari e ti e s o f th e ra t trib e u sua l in th e se la titud e s are t o b e ,

me t with Th e re is a n an i mal ca ll e d sah e yra which I

.
,

c o ul d n o t o bt ain o f which t h e A bys si n i an s h a v e so me curi o u s

,

id e as it live s in ho le s i n th e gro un d an d i s sa id t o fe e d o n ,

d e a d b o di e s & c co mi n g o ut o n ly a t n ight F ro m o n e p art

, .
,
.

o f th e d es cripti o n th a t i t s hid e i s imp e n e tra bl e t o l a n c e o r

,

b ull e t I sh o uld j udge it to b e o f th e a rma dill o sp e ci e s

, .

Th e bird s o f the se co un tri e s th o ugh i n fe ri o r in brillia n cy ,

o f plu mage t o tho se o f So uth A me rica o r A u stra li a an d ,

r h a p s i n so n g t o o ur Euro p e a n wa rbl e rs a re n e ve rth e l e ss

p e , , ,

p ro b a b ly as i n t e re s ti n g as a n y t o t h e o m i t h o l o gi s t fr o m ,

b e i n g in gre a t va ri e ty o f s triki n g cha ra cte r an d l e ss k n o wn

, ,

t h a n th o se o f t h e o th e r qua rt e rs o f t h e wo rld I co ll e cte d .

a b o v e thre e hu n dre d va ri e ti e s a go o d pro p o rti o n o f which I ,

s uc c e e d e d in bri n gi n g h o me with me Th e o strich an d .

b u s ta rd are fo un d t o t h e n o rth o f Aby ssi n i a a n d i n t h e

wi ld e r di strict s o f tha t c o u n try I have fo ur va rie ti e s o f .

vul t ur e th e l a rg e st me asure s n e a rly e l e v e n fe e t fro m tip t o

tip o f h i s e xt e n d e d win gs ; h e i s bro wn e xc e pt h i s thigh s ,

an d th e u n d e r fe ath e rs o f h is br e a s t which a re whit e h is ,

n e c k a n d h e a d a re n a k e d e xc e pt a so rt o f bri stly b e a rd
,

un d e r h i s chi n An o th e r sma lle r so rt h as a white tu ft

.

o n t h e h e a d a n d n e ck Th e o th e rs a re t h e. se cre ta ry ,

an d th e
“
rakh amah o r white Egypti an vulture
”
,
.
 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . Cm . xxxl .

Th e gl es are ve ry b eauti ful ; o n e

ea , th e l a rgest, i s all j
et

blac k with th e e x ce pt io n of his ba ck

, , whi c h is pure white ;
a n o th e r is rufous , or e x c e pt in g his head,

ne c k an d ta il, whi ch
,
th e uppe r feat hers of
 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXXI .

Abyssi n ia n s will e a t th e fl e sh o f n e i t h e r o f th e s e , th o ugh the

Ara b s e ve rywh e re e a t t h e liza rd , an d th o se o n t h e White
’
N il e d o by an y me an s d e spi se cro co dil e s fle sh : I have
not

tast e d bo th tha t o f th e fo rme r fre que n tly i t i s a n ythi ng but

,

di sagre e abl e O f th e small e r liza rd s th e re a re a n i n n umerable

.

qu an tity i n all tho s e c o un trie s ; o n e so rt ca ll e d by th e Sen ,

n ari s dhabb i s much fe a re d by b o th th e m a n d th e peo ple

,

o f Tigre : t h e y fa n cy th a t t h e p o o r littl e b e a s t h as t h e po wer

o f spitti n g so m e so rt o f v e n o m whi c h i s v e ry d a n g e ro u s and ,

t h at it p o i so n s an y fo o d e sp e ci ally mi lk w hich it may taste

, ,

I b e li e ve tha t all thi s i s p e rfe ct sl an d e r fo r e xc e pt that its , ,

a pp e a ran c e i s un pre p o ss e ssi n g b e i n g co v e re d wi th scales

,

a n d o th e r e xcre sc e n c e s I n e v e r saw a n ythi n g i n t h e p oo r

,

dhabb but wha t ca u se d me t o b e co me a gre a t fri e n d to

”

hi m a n d save h i m fro m much p e rse cutio n wh e n e ve r I was

,

a bl e
. O n o n e o ccasi o n t h e fe a r th e A by ssin i a n s have of
h i m se rv e d t o fill my hu n gry st o mach b e tt e r th a n I sho uld
o the rwi se ha v e d o n e It ha pp e n e d th a t o n c e b e in g on
.
,

v e ry sh o rt co mmo n s I was se a te d at din n e r n e xt t o a man

,

wh o h ad a truly A byss i n i an a pp e tite a nd a s till mo re Ab ys

sin i an fa ci lity fo r quickly d e sp a tchi n g h i s fo o d F e e ling .

tha t I sh o uld co me in fo r a ve ry sma ll pro p o rti o n o f my

sh a re I h a d re c o urse t o a littl e stra ta g e m t o ch e ck h i s mas
,

t i ca t i o n We h ad b e e n t alki n g o f t h e dha bb ( I fo rget

.
”

h i s Tigre n ame ) an d i n th e c o urse o f t h e c o n v e r sa tio n it

,

wa s sa id th a t i f h e s p a t o n a p e rso n t h e p o i so n was so
, , ,

p o we rful tha t th e victi m wo uld fe e l ill a t o n ce a n d die in ,

twe n ty fo ur h o urs Thi s ficti o n wa s a gr e e d t o by se veral

-
.

pre se n t wh o o f c o urse all fan cie d th at th e y h a d h eard the

, , ,

sa me . A ft e r a fe w mi n ut e s I ga ve a st a rt an d t hre w my ,
’
club in to a c o rn e r n e a r us What s t h e ma tt e r ! I was
.

a sk e d Oh ! n o thi n g b ut a n ugly littl e liz a rd but h e got ,

”
a w ay . N e xt with a bit o f gra ss which I w e t t e d in my
, ,

mo uth I n o w an d th e n t o uch e d th e ba re s h o uld e rs an d back

,

o f my n e ighb o ur wh o a t t h e first ti me s tar t e d a t t h e se co nd

, ,

lo o k e d ro u n d un co mfo rta bly a n d a t th e third time cursed,

’”
th e dh a b b s fa mily l o st h i s app e tit e an d d e cl a re d h e felt
, ,

v e ry ill So I go t my share an d mo re a n d c o nso le d my

.
, ,
C HAP . XXXI . N A TUR A L H I S TOR Y .
4 17

ne igh b o ur afte rward s with e xpl ai n i n g th e j o k e wh e re a t h e

t v ry an gry a n d we ll l a ugh e d a t by t h e r e s t o f t h e p a rty
g o e , ,

o n e o r t wo o f wh o m h a d se e n thro ugh th e wh o l e trick fro m

t h e fir st an d assi st e d i n pl a yi n g it
,
Th e re a re ma n y sn a ke s .
,

c e n tip e d e s a n d l arge v e n o mo u s spid e rs o f t h e ta ran tula

,

k in d i n th e h o t lo w di strict s ,
A mo n g o th e rs a sp e ci e s o f
.
,

b o a c o n s trict o r i s n o t un co mmo n I ha v e me n ti o n e d tha t .

o n e r e p o rt e d o f v e ry l a rge di me n si o n s wa s kill e d a t R o h a
, ,

b aita so me ti me b e fo re I we n t th e re I my se l f sa w two i n .

th e gully wh e re t h e vill a ge we ll s a re a n d h a d a n e a re r vi e w ,

o f th e m tha n wa s p e rh a p s a lt o ge th e r safe Th e gra ss a n d .

ju n gl e be in g t o o high fo r much sho o tin g I w e n t d o wn o n e ,

da y t o pra cti se my rifl e a t a ma rk a n d a cco rdi n gly h a vi n g , ,

se l e ct e d a p a rt o f t h e dry wa t e rc o urs e which m n n i n g n e a rly ,

s tra ight fo r a b o v e o n e hu n dre d a n d fi fty ya rd s a pp e a re d ,

suita bl e fo r my purp o se I l e ft o n e o f th e t wo s e rva n t s wh o

,

h ad a cc o mp an i e d me with my gun whil e I a n d th e o th e r ,

pa c e d o ff t h e di stan c e an d ma d e a ro ugh ta rge t o f st o n e s

,
.

Arrive d a t th e pro p e r pl a c e w e w e re e n gage d i n c o ll e cti n g

,

ma t e ri al s fo r o ur c o n structi o n fro m th e sid e s o f t h e wa te r

co urse (which a s I hav e b e fo re sa id was o n ly a fe w fe e t
, ,

wid e an d with hill s c o v e re d with ro ck a n d ju n gl e ri sin g

,

abrup t ly fro m it o n e ith e r sid e ) wh e n Ti sph i t o u th e se rva n t , ,

wh o was with me start e d b a ck a n d pulle d me with h im

, , ,

ca llin g o ut T e me n t e me n (sn a ke ) At th e sa me mo me n t
,
.

I he ard a l o ud ru stlin g in th e j un gl e cl o se t o wh e re we h a d ,

be e n ge tti n g sto n e s an d thin ki n g i n my ign o ra n c e o f th e

, ,

lan guage (I h a d but ju st a rrive d a t R o h ab ai ta ) tha t t e me n

“ ”
,

might me a n li o n l e o pa rd o r a n te l o p e ca ll e d l o udly t o
, , ,

Ga bro u t o co me up with t h e gun Al l thi s p a sse d i n a .

’
mo me n t s time ; a n d th o ugh o n ly o n e hu n dre d a n d fi fty
a rd s o ff l n g b e fo re th e u rriv e d I h a d se e n tw o mag
y o, g n a

n i fic e n t b o a c o n strict o rs o n e a b o ut t e n ya rd s fro m t h e o th e r
, ,

ui tly l v th ir pl c w ith ut tt mpti n g t o mo l e st us

q e e a e e a e s o a e , ,

a n d as c e n d th e hill till th e y we re l o st i n ju n gl e whith e r I

, ,

did n o t c are t o pursu e th e m Th e first thin g I sa w a fte r t h e .

rus tl e wa s a h e a d which app e a re d fo r a mo me n t ab o v e t h e

,

c a n e s th e n a b o dy n e a rly a s t hick as my thigh a n d th e n

, , ,

2 E
4 1 8 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . xxxr
.

th e y di sapp e are d th e mo v e me n t o f t h e ca n e s o n ly marking

,

t h e dire cti o n th e y h a d ta k e n .

Th e re i s a gre at va ri e ty i n th e sma ll e r so rts o f sn ake s : the

c e ras te s o r h o rn e d vipe r a sp a spe ci e s o f c o bra th e puff
, , , ,

a dd e r a n d man y o th e rs o f a ll siz e s an d c o l o urs fro m a pale

, ,

pi n k t o th e brighte st e me rald gre e n a re m e t w ith in Abys ,

si n i a an d t h e adj a c e n t c o u n tri e s I wa s t o ld o f a horned

.

se rp e n t th a t wa s kill e d so me y e ars a go w hich a ppe ars to

,

ha ve b e e n a mo n stro si t y e ith e r i n re a lity o r th e imagi nation

,

o f my i n fo rma n t s . Th e y d e scrib e d it a s a bo ut se ve n feet

l o n g n e a rly two fe e t i n ci rcumfe re n ce w ith s ca rce ly any
, ,

di mi n uti o n to wa rds th e tail an d we ari n g a pa ir o f horns

,

thre e i n ch e s i n l e n gth . It is co mmo n ly re p o rte d that

drago n s o r ra the r flyin g li z a rd s o f ve ry v e n o mo u s nature
, ,

a re t o b e me t with i n Wa lka it Sc o rpi o n s a re abundant

.

e v e rywh e re i n t h e h o t di strict s ; n o h o u se but i s full o f them .

I hav e b e e n stu n g se ve ral ti me s by th e m b ut witho ut any ,

s e ri o u s c o n se qu e n c e s th o ugh I h av e h e a rd o f man y in stances

,

which ha v e e n d e d fa ta lly .

A s fo r fish a n d i n se ct s th e re are pl e n t y o f t h e fo rmer in

,

mo st o f th e riv e rs a n d t o o man y o f th e l a tt e r e ve rywhere

, ,

b ut I k n o w v e ry littl e a b o ut th e m .
420 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . xxxu .

of h al f a d o z e n
- -
a n d e qu a lly gre a sy s o ldi e rs at my
w e ll go t up
-

h e e l s ; d o i n g th e gre a t ma n with my ga rm e n t we ll over

,

my n o se a t e ve ry fe stival a n d fun e ra l w o rth a tte n ding;

“
h a n gi n g o ut e xt e n sive ly wh e n I h a d a fe w shilli ngs to
”

sp e n d ; sp o n gi n g o n my n e ighb o u rs wh e n a s w a s o ftener ,

t h e ca se I h a d n o thi n g
,
— i n fa ct livi n g a m o s t agre eable ,

life o n a v e ry li mit e d i n c o me I can n o t d e n y th a t I look

.

b a ck t o th o se ti me s w ith a c e rta i n fe e li n g o f re gr e t It was .

th e o n ly p e ri o d o f my li fe in which I e v e r fe lt myse lf a
“

re a lly gre a t man I cry v e ry sma ll i n E n glan d wi th

.
,

a much gre a t e r e xp e n ditu re Th e m e n w ill n o t l o o k after

.

me w ith a d mira ti o n n o r th e girl s ma k e so n gs a b o ut me

,

h e re .

M e an whil e a s I hav e b e fo re hi n t e d I w a s livi n g without

, ,

a n y me an s ; my suppli e s an d l e tt e r s h a vi n g be e n unac
c o u n ta bly d e ta i n e d o n th e way so th a t fro m t h e ti me o f my ,

l e a vi n g C a iro two y e a rs an d a qua rt e r b e fo re I was in the

, ,

d a rk a b o ut Euro p e an d Euro p e an go i n gs o n .

H o we ve r n e a r th e e n d o f May 1 8 4 5 I was o n e mo rn ing

, , ,

c o n gra tul a t e d o n t he arrival at M a ssawa o f a ship which I

, ,

was t o ld h a d bro ught me o n e o r t wo l a rg e b o x e s I h ad .

so o ft e n b e fo re b e e n di sa pp o i n t e d a t s uch r e p o rt s h aving ,

n o l e s s th a n th re e ti me s se n t me sse n ge r s t o t h e c o a s t to
b ri n g up i magi na ry suppli e s bro ught by i ma gi n a ry ve ssels
, .

’ ’
a n d th e n a ft e r t e n d a y s
, o r a fo rt n ight s p a i n ful susp e n se ,

fin di n g tha t I h a d to pa y t h e co uri e rs an d h a d n o t a fa rthi ng ,

t o re c e iv e th a t I w a s i n cli n e d a t fi rs t t o d i s b e li e v e the
,

re p o rt o f my go o d fo rtun e ; b ut a c o in ci d e n c e se ttle d the

ma tt e r i n my s up e rsti t i o u s mi n d an d I s e n t a ga i n ,
This .

ti me re p o rt h a d n o t li e d fo r s ca rc e ly h ad my pe o pl e l e ft me
,

thre e d ay s wh e n a n A rabic l e tte r fro m H o us s e i n Efle ndi

c o n firme d it I n d ue ti me th e b o x e s th e m se lv e s appe ared
.
,

a n d I re a liz e d a pl e a sur e i n r e a di n g l e tt e r s a n d n e wsp a ers

p
which I h a d by n o m e an s e xp e ct e d my i d e as a n d fee li ngs ,

ha vi n g b e c o me ra th e r A byssi n i an .

Th e ra in s w e re ju st s e tti n g i n ; s till I fe lt th a t I must

mak e up my mi n d fo r a sta rt o r w ait fo r a n o th e r re mittance ;
,

fo r a ft e r my d e bt s o f h o n o ur an d t h e s till mo r e n umerous
, ,
C um x xx rr .
yo UF N E Y 7 0 TH E TA C CA Z Y .
42 :

an d e qu a lly i mp e ra tiv e d e bts o f gra titud e we re di scha rge d , ,

t h e b a l a n c e w o uld b a r e ly ca rry me t o Se n n ar a n d w o uld b e ,

i n suffici e n t i f I re ma i n e d a fe w mo n th s l o n ge r i n Aby ssi n i a .

A cc o rdi n gly I se t a b o ut my pre p a ra ti o n s zn s ta n ter

'

Th e se .

a re s o o n m a d e w h e n a ma n tra v e l s a s I d o with n e xt to ,

n o thi n g i n th e ba gga g e d e p a rt me n t N e v e rth e l e s s I did n o t

.

g e t a w a y till l a t e i n Ju n e I w ill s p a r e m y s.e l f t h e re c o l

l e cti o n a n d my re a d e rs th e p e rusa l o f a v e ry mo i st n u
, , ,

u n pl e a san t l e a ve takin g : a cro wd o f b o th se xe s c ame t o se e

-

me o ff a l t h o ugh t o a vo id such an o ccurre n c e I h a d se cre tly

,

fix e d my d e pa rture fo r a n e arly h o ur i n t h e m o rn in g .

Su ffi c e it t o say I was n e a rly we t th ro u gh b e fo r e I l e ft my

o w n d o o rs A t l a st o ff we w e re a n d we re a ch e d succ e s
.
, ,

c e s si v e ly A x u m a n d Ma it o waro with o ut a n y o ccurre n c e sa v e

a n a tt a ck o f o phtha l mi a w hich k e pt m e a d a y i n t h e l a tt e r
,

vill a ge Our ro a d bra n che d o ff fro m th e Axum a n d A ddy

.

Ab o ro ut e ju st a ft e r e n te ri n g t h e pl a in o f So le kh le kh a
, .

’
Thre e mo re day s rid e o v e r a fe rtil e an d we ll w a t e re d ta bl e
,
-

l a n d bro ught us t o D e vra A bba i (th e gre a t mo n a s t e ry)

, ,

a ft e r p a ss i n g th e vill age s o f B e lli ss A ddy Gi d d a d a n d A d e ga

, ,

Sh e ikh a Thi s p a rt o f o ur j o urn e y wa s so me wha t d e vo id

.

o f i n t e re st : we h a d a fe w w o rd s a t B e lli ss w ith a p a rty o f

s o ldi e rs wh o s t o pp e d o ur p o rt e rs p re t e n di n g tha t th e y
,

w a n t e d cu st o ms duty but o n my c o min g up t h e ma tt e r wa s

s o o n se t t o ri ght s a s th e l e a d e r o f th e p a rty h a pp e n e d t o b e
,

a n o l d a cqu ai n t a n c e .

A s fo r t h e sc e n e ry by th e ro a d I h e a rd sa y tha t it wa s ,

t o l e ra bly mo n o to n o u s with th e e xc e pti o n o f o cca si o n a l

,

gli m p se s o f di st an t mo un tai n s ; but I sa w n o thi n g fo r my ,

e ye s w e re b a n d a ge d fr o m t h e e ffe ct s o f my l a t e a tta ck .

A b o ut h a l f way a cro ss t h e p la i n w e p a sse d a ra vi n e an d

-

s tre a m c a ll e d G a mma l o w h e r e ma y s till b e se e n s ca tt e re d

,

b o n e s o f so me o f t h e fugitiv e s fro m t h e gre a t b a ttl e o f Ma i

’
I s la ma i t h e fi e ld o f which i s a b o ut t wo d a ys j o urn e y furth e r
,

on . Thi s se rve s t o sho w with w ha t cru e l d e te rmi n a ti o n th e

G a ll a s p ursu e d an d sl aught e re d th e ir v a n qui sh e d fo e s e v e n
t o thi s di st a n c e A t A d e ga Sh e ikh a w e l e ft t h e G o n d a r
.

c a ra v a n ro ute which turn s in a so uth we s t e rly d ire cti o n

,
-
,
4 2 2 LI F E IN AB YS SI N I A . C H AP . XXXII .

wh i l e o urs co n tin ue d we st ward We fo un d t h e village of .

D e vra A bba i built in a d e e p h o ll o w o r ch a s m a n d so n early ,

co n c e a l e d tha t whe n a ppro a chin g it fro m so m e directions

, , ,

y o u w o uld s ca rc e ly i ma gi n e yo urse l f t o b e n e a r h a bitations ,

se e i n g n o thi n g but a wid e tra ct o f ta bl e l a n d b e fo re you -

.

We we re sho wn i n to a l a rge o bl o n g bu i ld in g in shape ,

an d siz e much r e se mblin g an E n gl i sh b a rn but h e re built of ,

s t o n e s an d mud an d t ha tch e d o v e r ; i t w a s
,
I b eli eve , ,

in te n d e d fo r re ligio us fe stiva l s a n d o cc a s i o n al ly fo r the ,

’
re ce ptio n o f tra ve ll e rs My thre e da y s j o u rn e y i n th e sun
.

h ad be e n t h e me an s o f bri n gi n g o n a mo s t vi o l e n t re turn of
Ophthalmia but a s so me o f my re ade rs ma y n o t kn o w what
, ,

that c o mpl a i n t i s an d I am sure I ho p e n o n e o f t h e m ever

,

wi ll by e xp e ri e n c e I may as we ll e xpl a in t h a t it i s a severe

,

in flamma ti o n o f th e e ye s a n d wh e n it re a ch e s t h e he ight it
, ,

ge n e ra lly d o e s i n Africa tho se u se ful o rga n s are co mpletely

,

glu e d up so tha t the y can n o t b e o p e n e d ti l l th e y ha ve been

,

b athe d fo r a c o n sid e rabl e ti me in wa rm w a t e r an d when ,

th e y are o p e n e d which i s o n ly do n e fo r t h e purpo se of

,

putti n g i n so me c o llyri um n o thi n g i s disti n gui s h a bl e o f what ,

sh o uld b e whit e an d blu e gre y o r bl a ck but a bl o od red

, , , ,
-

ma ss . It will b e e a sily g ue sse d tha t t o b e l ai d up for a ,

°

fe w d ays o r a s o fte n happ e n s fo r we e ks o r m o n ths stone

, , , ,

bli n d an d with th e a gre e abl e s e n sa ti o n o f h a v i n g yo ur eyes

,

fi ll e d with sha rp co arse sa n d re d h o t i s by n o m e ans an

, , ,

e n vi abl e situ a ti o n We ll thi s wa s my ca se a t D e vra Abbai

.
,

fo r a b o ut t e n d a ys Th e se rva n t s h a d ma d e m e a so rt of
.

te n t i n s id e t h e ba rn mo re co mpl e te ly t o s e cure fo r me the

,

darkn e ss I re quire d fo r th o ugh th e buil d i n g w as o f very

, ,

gre a t a re a a n d lighte d o n ly by a d o o r a t e a ch e n d it was a

, ,

gre a t d e a l to o brilli an t fo r me Wh il e up o n thi s subject l

—
.

may a s we ll say h o w I tre t e d a m yse l wh o k n o ws b ut it

f
may b e o f use ! I at e n e xt t o n o thin g t o o k pl e nty of ,

j a la p & c h a d so me bl o o d ta k e n fro m b e hi n d th e e a rs and

,
.
, ,

a fe w dro p s o f so luti o n o f sulpha t e o f z i n c dro pp e d into

ea ch e ye thre e o r fo ur ti me s a da y I b e li e v e th i s t o be as .

go o d a re cip e a s a n y fo r o rdin ary case s I ha v e tried it

o ft e n with suc c e ss ; b ut I mu st sa y th a t t h e d ro ppingin -
4 4
2 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXXI I.

digre ssi n g fo r we a re n o t o n o ur j o urn e y but s e a te d in the

, ,

mo st d e light ful sh a d e th at e ve r c a m e t o t h e r e li e f o f sore

’
e y e s ; w e d o n t s ta rt till t o mo rro w — t o m o rr o w will soon
-
,
-

b e h e re .

Al as p o o r Yak o ub ! t o mo rro w c a me — a n o th e r mo rrow

,
-

sa w h i m n o m o re I ha ve b e e n s e lfi s h i n n o t having ,

a lre a dy me n ti o n e d a ki n d fri e n d th o ugh a se rv a n t a n d one , ,

wh o n u rse d m e t e n d e rly du ri n g my bli n d n e ss My intro .

ducti o n t o h im w a s a s fo ll o ws — A fe w d a y s b e fo re o ur final
d e pa rture fro m Ad o u a I wa s a st o n i sh e d a t t h e sight of a
s tra n ge whit e e n t e ri n g my ya rd F ro m a n o t e o f i ntro .

ductio n which h e bro ught me fro m Mr S c h i mpe r h e proved .

t o b e a G e rman wh o h a d ju st a rriv e d i n A by s s i n i a e xpect

,

in g gre at thin gs but wh o fi n di n g tha t a ll w a s p o v e rty and

, , ,

t h a t n o m o n e y was t o b e ma d e wa s a n xi o u s by a n y means , , ,

t o l e a v e t h e co u n try but h a d n o t wh e r e w ith a l t o pay his

,

e xp e n se s t o t h e c o a st I sp o k e t o h i m o n t h e s ubj e ct and
.
,

h e t o ld me th a t ha v i n g h e a rd t h at Mr S c h i mpe r was a
, .

p rin ce h e h a d littl e id e a tha t hi s prin cip a lity o n ly pro duced

,
’
h i m a fe w d o ll a r s wo rth o f n a tiv e cl o th s a n d s o me co rn per
an n um H e h a d h o p e d t o h a ve o bta i n e d a s itu a ti o n with
.

h i s c o un tryman a n d truly h e wa s a m a n w h o w o uld have

,

b e e n v e ry u se ful t o a n y o n e in th o se p a rts fo r h e se e med to ,

have b e e n o f a l mo st e v e ry tra d e a n d t o b e a bl e to turn his ,

ha n d t o a n ythi n g I n e ve r e x a ctly k n e w w h a t h a d b rought

.

h im i n to such a n o utl an di sh c o u n try i n s e a rch o f a li veli

ho o d n o r d o I re me mb e r wh e th e r I e v e r a sk e d hi m his
’

n am e h e w as ma n y y e a rs o ld e r th an m y s e l f but w i th the , ,

qui e t s t e a di n e ss o f man ho o d re ta i n e d a ll t h e vi go ur of
,

yo uth I n fact h e wa s e v e rythi n g th a t o n e c o ul d wi sh for

.
,

as a se rvan t o r c o mp an i o n i n such a c o u n t ry I o ffe red to .

a ssi st h i m t o re tu rn t o Massawa re pr e s e n ti n g t o h i m that ,

th e j o urn e y I w a s a b o ut t o u n d e rta k e w o ul d n o t p e rh ap s be
t h e mo st a gre e a bl e o n e e xc e pt fo r th e n o v e lty a n d adven
,

ture it might a ffo rd h e acce pt e d a sma ll l o a n fro m me for

pre se n t purp o se s but d e cla re d tha t h e sh o uld m uch prefer
,

my ro ut e a n d as fo r ro u ghin g it t h e m o re o f th at the
, , ,

me rri e r . H e r e fu se d fo r th e ti me a n y s a l a ry a s I was ,
C H AP . XXXI I .
7 O UR N E Y TO TH E TA CCA Z Y .
42 5

t a ki n g h i m t o do h im a se rvic e sugge sti n g tha t wh en we ,

a rriv e d a t Khart o u m I sh o uld gi ve h i m wh a t I like d fo r t h e

ti me tha t h a d p asse d an d th a t i f we suite d e a ch o th e r h e

, , ,

s h o uld a cc o mp an y me i n t h e j o urn e y thro ugh A fric a which

I pro p o se d u n d e rtaki n g Thus much co upl e d with h is

.
,

k i n d a tte n d a n c e o n me wh e n l a id up a t D e vr a A bb a i i s all ,

I kn o w o f h is li fe ; h i s me lan ch o ly a n d u n ti me ly d e a th will
fo ll o w a lmo st imme dia te ly .

We starte d e a rly i n o rd e r t o e ffe ct o ur p assage o f th e

,

T a c ca z y as so o n a ft e r n o o n a s p o ssibl e Ev e ry mo me n t
, .

w as pre ci o us t o us ; th e ra i n s h a d a lr e a dy s o much swo ll e n

t h e rive r th a t n o o n e h a d a tt e mpt e d th e u pp e r fo rd (o n t h e
o rdi n a ry G o n d a r r o a d ) fo r s e v e ra l d ays p a s t We pro cure d .

a guid e wh o se bu si n e ss wa s t o a s si st us i n cro s si n g th e
,

to rre n ts an d t o sh o w us t h e wa y o v e r t h e wild un i n ha bit e d

, ,

di strict tha t li e s b e twe e n thi s p art o f t h e c o u n try an d

Wa lk ait H e t o ld us th a t w e sh o uld p e rha p s have t o
.

re tra c e o ur ste p s i f w e fo u n d th e rive r to o d e e p an d stro n g

,

fo r us b ut tha t a s th e fo rd t o which h e wa s a b o ut t o c o n
,

d uct us wa s v e ry bro a d a n d c o n se qu e n tly sha ll o w we

, ,

m ight p o ssibly ge t o v e r .

N e v e r did I fe e l in b e tt e r spi rit s th a n th a t mo rn in g We .

ro d e fo r so me ho urs o ve r a v e ry wild pictu re s que co un try

v a ri e d with t a bl e l a n d s v a ll e y s an d hill s o f a ll sh ap e s a n d
-
, ,

s iz e s p a sse d n e a r t h e s c e n e o f t h e b a ttl e o f Ma i I sla ma i

,
.

a n d a b o ut n o o n b e ga n th e a ctu a l d e sc e n t t o wa rd s t h e rive r .

F o r an h o ur o r two we we r e buri e d i n d e e p ra vi n e s with ,

ro ck s an d tre e s o v e rhan gi n g us till a t l e ngth w e e me rge d ,

i n to a bro ad a n d wo o dy fla t thro ugh th e tre e s o f which th e

,

re fl e cti o n o f t h e aft e rn o o n sun o n i t s wa t e rs sh o we d us

t h e Ta c c a z y n o w swo ll e n t o a maj e stic rive r a t a di stan c e

, ,

o f a b o ut h a l f a mil e
'

M o s t o f o ur p a rty se t o fl a t a run
.
,

e a ge r t o ge t a n e a re r vi e w o f it I fo r my p a rt h a d se e n
.
, ,

n o thi n g lik e a riv e r si n c e I l e ft t h e N il e fo r th e Ma re b i s ,

as I h a ve sa id but a riv ul e t i n t h e dry se a so n

, So me o f .

o ur p e o pl e h a d n e v e r be fo re se e n a riv e r o f a n y so rt an d ,

l o o k e d up o n it with awe a n d w o n d e r I n de e d it was a .

,

n o b l e stre a m i n man y pl a c e s n e a rly i f no t quite a s bro a d

, , ,
42 6 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HA P . XXXI I .

as th e Thame s a t Gre e n wich ; but i n i t s ra pi d b o i sterous ,

d e sce n t mo re like th e R h o n e a s it l e a v e s t h e Lake of

,

G e n e va O n th e o pp o sit e sh o re a pp e a r e d a b e lt o f forest
.

s imil a r t o th a t we h a d ju st cr o ss e d th o u gh n e ith e r so wide ,

n o r so fla t an d i n r e a r o f thi s r o se a d a rk m a s s o f abru
, pt
ro ck s We a sc e n d e d th e stre a m fo r a c o n s id e ra bl e distance
.

b e fo re we a rrive d a t th e fo rd wh e re we w e re t o cro ss As .

th e riv e r did n o t a pp e ar so high a s th e guid e h a d fea re d he ,

re co mme n d e d a sh o rt -halt b e fo r e w e e n t e re d th e water ;

an d in th e me an whil e th e b aggage w a s m a d e up into
, , .

co n ve n i e n t p a rc e ls an d p e ri sha bl e a rticl e s p a ck e d in skins

, ,

so a s t o pro t e ct th e m a s much as p o ss ibl e fro m a we tting .

Aft e r sitt in g a fe w min ute s we b e gan t o s t rip a n d ti e up our ,

cl o the s i n bu n dl e s which we we re t o c a rry e a ch man his

, ,

o wn turba n lik e o n h is h e a d I wa s pro c e e d in g very

,
-

, .

l e i sure ly in my pr e para ti o n s fin i shin g a pip e a n d waiting to , ,

b e su mmo n e d wh e n I h e a rd o n e o f th e A by s s i n i an s call
,

o ut , C o me b a ck co me b a ck A bl a ck w h o was with us
,
’ ”
a n swe r e d h im Oh n e v e r fe a r h e s a child o f th e sea !
, , ,

I l o o k e d up a n d saw Ya k o ub wa di n g o ut in a b o ut t wo feet
,

o f wa t e r a n d o cca si o n a lly ta ki n g a duck u n d e r as i f to cool

,

himse l f Awa re th at h e w a s ign o ra n t o f th e l an guage I

.
,

ca ll e d t o h im t e llin g h im th a t h e h ad be tt e r n o t go alone
, ,

but wa it till so me o n e a cqu a i n t e d w ith t h e p e culia riti es of ,

th e rive r sh o uld guid e h i m

, h e a n swe re d l a ugh i n g that he , ,

wa s n o t go i n g much fa rth e r a n d th a t h e c o uld s w i m I did , .

n o t thi n k th e r e c o uld b e a n y d an g e r if h e re m a i n e d where

h e wa s th e w a t e r n o t b e in g mo re th a n a ya rd d e e p an d he
, ,

h a d t o ld me b e fo re tha t h e wa s an e xtre me ly go o d swi mmer;

but th e guid e s h a d cauti o n e d me o f th e d a n g e r o f th e whirl
p o o l s curre n ts an d mud which th e y s a id re n d e red it
, , ,

p o ssible fo r an ythi n g e ve n a fish t o li v e in s o me p arts of , ,

t h e t o rre n t s o wh e n o n l o o ki n g up I sa w h i m moving

a b o ut I a ga in ca ll e d t o h im b e ggin g o f h i m wi t h mu
, ch ,

e a rn e st n e ss t o r e turn H e a n s we re d so me thi n g th a t made

.

me l augh a t th e sa me ti m e sw i n gi n g h i s arms a b o ut like the

,

sa il s o f a wi n d mill s o a s t o spl a sh t h e w a t e r a ll r o u n d him

, .

H e might h a ve b e e n thirty ya rd s fro m t h e sh o re a n d a little ,

42 8 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . xxxn .

An d now tha t we we re a ga in o n th e s p o t a s i f to make ,

e v e rythi n g mo re gl o o my th e sun w a s s e t a n d s carcely a

, ,

s o u n d wa s t o b e h eard but th e dull mo a n i n g o f that fatal

n ve r .

Th e guid e wh o h ad re mai n e d b e hi n d o r r e turn e d so oner

, ,

th a n th e re st urge d us t o cro ss imme di a t e ly a s th e water

, ,

h a d a lre a dy ri se n s e v e ra l i n ch e s a n d w a s s till ri sin g fast

,
.

So we e n t e re d t wo a n d two t o ge th e r e a c h p a ir o f us con ,

n e c t e d by a c o upl e o f l a rge p o l e s l a id a cr o s s o ur sh o ulders ,

t o which we re ti e d p o rti o n s o f th e b agga g e a n d so me heavy

st o n e s . Thi s l a st a dditi o n was a go o d pr e ca uti o n t o give
us gr e a t e r w e ight t o re si st th e str e a m ; w e e d ge d upwards
fo r so me d i st a n c e a n d th e n gra du a lly c ro s si n g a rri ve d in
, , ,

sa fe ty o n th e o pp o sit e sh o re It t o o k us a l o n g time to
.

e t o v r a n d n o t o n e o f us but a ckn o w l e dg e d t o h aving

g e ,

s e v e ra l time s b e e n v e ry n e arly c a rri e d o ff h i s l e gs The .

wa t e r r e ach e d my bre ast i n th e d e e p e s t p a rt an d con ,

s e qu e n tly th e chi n s o f mo st o f o ur p e o pl e We pas sed .

withi n a fe w ya rd s o f th e v e ry sp o t wh e re I h a d se e n poor
Y a k o ub fo r the l a st ti me I n th e m o rn i n g w e h a d l oo ked
.

fo rwa rd t o t h e cro ssi n g with th e gre a t e s t pl e as ure th e risk ,

a tt e n di n g it o n ly a pp e a ri n g a s a littl e s pic e t o m a ke i t all

t h e m o re a gre e a bl e Wh e n we firs t s a w t h e water it

.
,

se e me d all bright fro m th e su n shi n e a n d o ur o wn cheer

ful n e ss ; wh e n we cro sse d it it wa s d a rk chilly an d the, , ,

gra v e o f o ur c o mra d e Th e dan ge rs we r e d o ubl e d by the

.

ri sin g o f th e riv e r an d e ve ry sp ark o f e xcit e m e n t o r adven

,

tu re h a d b e e n qu en ch e d by t h e me l an ch o ly o ccu rre n c e s and

fa tigu e s o f t h e day I must say fo r th e A by s s i n ian s and
.

bl a cks a l so tha t o n thi s o cca si o n th e y m a n i fe st e d much

,

sy mp a thy an d ki n d n e s s o f h e a rt a pp e a ri n g t o fe e l as d eeply
,
’
fo r o ur p o o r fri e n d s fa t e a s if h e h a d b e e n a n e a r a n d dear
re la ti o n t o th e m altho ugh h e h ad o n ly b e e n w i t h us a few
,

d ays a n d e xc e pt by sign s an d a fe w b ro k e n w o rd s h e could

, ,

c o n ve rse with n o n e o f th e p a rty M o re o v e r n o t o ne of

.
,

th e m fo r a mo me n t h e sita t e d wh e n h i s t urn ca me to enter

, ,

t h e rive r th o ugh n o n e c o uld s wi m e xc e pt t h e guide and

,
e mu x x x rr
!
. .
7 0 UB N E Y TO TH E TA CCA Z Y .
42 9

thr e e o th e rs . We
ve r a rrive d a t an y sa ti sfa ct o ry c o n
ne

c l us io n a s t o wha t c o uld h a v e b e e n th e c au se o f o ur l o s s .

Wha t co uld h ave pro duce d th e sudd e n cha n ge i n h is

p o s iti o n which I fir s t n o tic e d P Ev e rythi n g w as sugg e s t e d
o n e th o ught a cro c o dil e h a d t ak e n h im an d t o su s ta i n thi s ,

a rgume n t it was sa id by th o se wh o h a d se e n h im fro m

,

t h e l o we r e n d o f th e bu sh e s th a t a s h e go t i n t o d e e p e r,

w a t e r h i s h e a d san k gra du a lly d o wn till it di sa pp e a re d i n ,

a d e e p p o o l n e a rly O pp o sit e t o wh e r e th e y w e re sta n di n g ,

a n d th a t h e struggl e d i n t h e w a t e r but did n o t a pp e a r t o ,

s wim . Thi s se e me d p ro b abl e a s o f c o urse if th e a n ima l, , ,

’
k e pt a t t h e b o tt o m hi s victi m s h e a d w o uld gra dua lly d i s
,

a pp e a r as t h e wa t e r d e e p e n e d Oth e rs aga i n sa id tha t .

, ,

a n e ddy h a d ca ught h im a n d tha t h e h a d l o st h is p re s e n c e

,

o f m i n d a n d h ad n o t th o ught o f swi mmi n g ; an d a s t o h i s

,

s i n ki n g that wa s a cco u n t e d fo r by th e fa ct o f th e h o l e i n
,

w hich h e di sapp e a r e d b e i n g (a s it e vid e n tly wa s) a p o we rful

w hi rlp o o l which might h a v e dra wn h im d o wn i n t o t h e
,

m ud . I l e a n e d t o th e fo rme r o f the se Opi n i o n s th o ugh , ,

c e rta i n ly th e pri n cip a l a rgume n t aga i n st it wa s th a t h e n e v e r

,

utt e re d a so u n d ; whil e it wa s mo st pro b a bl e th a t a man ,

fe e li n g hi mse l f sudd e n ly bitt e n w o uld c a ll o ut i f o n ly fro m ,

t h e sh o ck The se me la n ch o ly th o ughts an d di scu ssi o n s

.

o ccupi e d us fo r a ti me a s w e pre p a re d o ur r e sti n g pl a c e

,
-

o n t h e we ste rn sh o re ; but o n e o f t h e p e o pl e i n ga th e ri n g

w o o d h a pp e n i n g t o light o n a human skull re mi n d e d us

t h a t we we re i n th e i mme di a t e n e ighb o urh o o d o f o ur o l d
r i en ds o f R o h a b a i t a th e B a r e a Thi littl i cid n t s e rv e d
f ,
s e n e .

t o turn o ur th o ught s i n to a mo re agre e abl e ch an n e l fo r it ,

l e d th e guid e i n to a se ri e s o f i n t e re sti n g an e cd o te s re l a tive

t o th e ir fo rme r a tta ck s o n t ra v e ll e rs i n th a t i mme di a t e
n e ighb o urh o o d a n d a l s o o n th e c o n v e n t o f D e v ra A bb a i
, ,

a n d so me o th e rs i n Wa l d a b b a Two ca rava n s h a d be e n .

w a yl a id duri n g t h e p a st se a so n o n th e hill s ju st a b o ve us ,

a n d h e judg e d tha t t h e vulture s mu st h av e bro ught t h e

s kull th e n c e Thu s fo r a ti me fo rge tti n g o ur so rro ws we

.
,

w e re a littl e mo re ch e e rful H a vi n g p asse d a ha rd day

.
,

a n d kn o win g tha t ma n y such we re b e fo r e us, we tri e d to

43 0 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXXII .

re st but th e c o n ve rsa ti o n c e as in g , n o th n
i g wa s t o b e heard
, ,

b ut
—th
0

’
d is tan t m o an
’
Th e a ck al s cry
j e

Of th e h yaena, fierce an d l o n e

A n d th at e te rn al, sadde n i ng s o un d
”
O f t o rre n ts i n th e gl en b e n eath .

I d o ubt i f an y o f us sl e pt so u n dly ; fo r my o wn part ,

I sta rte d up t wic e o n c e fan cyi n g th a t I h e a rd th e death

,

h o wl aga in an d o n c e tha t p o o r Yako ub was ca lling me

,

by name .
43 2 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXXI I I .

pro fe sse dly fo r th e sa k e o f co ll e cti n g fu e l but in truth to ,

t h o ld o f a n d e at ra w a n y n e wt liz a rd s n a k e o r o th er
g e , , ,

re ptil e th e y might cha n c e t o me e t with S o m e o f these .

s t o ri e s we re n o t a lt o ge th e r r o man c e s We h a d o n ly a very .

fe w dri e d ve tch e s e a ch fo r fo o d a n d w e re m i s e ra bly o ff in ,

o th e r r e sp e ct s fo r th e ra i n p o ure d d o w n o n us three h o urs

,

o ut o f e v e ry fo ur an d t h e n e ighb o urh o o d w a s b a re o f o ld
,

wo o d t h e v e g e ta ti o n b e i n g mo stly o f sm a ll s hrubs ; such

,

fu e l a s we c o uld pro cu re was mo re o v e r s o tho ro ughly

s atu ra t e d th a t w e w e re s ca rc e ly e v e r a bl e t o ge t up a fire .

F o ur d ay s o f thi s s o rt o f life b e i n g e n o ug h fo r us we ,

d e t e rmin e d t o try an d swi m th e riv e r Th e guid e and .

a n o th e r o f o ur pa rty plu n ge d i n so m e hu n dr e d ya rds abo ve

w h e re th e y me an t to l an d an d a rriv e d i n sa fe ty o n the ,

o th e r sh o re Th e y h a d cho se n a co m p a ra tiv e ly smo oth

.

re ach a n d still we re ca rri e d d o w n stre a m a v e ry l o n g dis

,

t a n ce tho ugh t h e t o rre n t itse l f c o uld n o t ha ve b e e n more

,

tha n fi fte e n t o twe n ty ya rd s wid e Th e guid e wh o h ad .

,

t ak e n a n in fl at e d go a t ski n t o supp o rt h im re turn ed b ut

-

, ,

t h e o th e r ma n re ma i n e d whe re h e wa s a s h e was n o t a ,

v e ry go o d swi mme r a n d h a d h ad much d ifli c ul ty in ge tting

,

a cro s s Th e b e d o f th e rive r i s i n a d e e p cra ck i n the

.

pl a i n se e mi n gly th e wo rk o f so me c o n vul s i o n o f n ature and

, ,

t h e t o rre n t i n c o n s e qu e n c e h a vi n g n o m e a n s o f p a ssi n g the

,

high ro ck s which wall it in o n e ithe r sid e ri se s rapidly to ,

a gre a t h e ight e v e ry ti me a flu sh o f ra in c o m e s d o wn fro m

’
th e hill s O n th e guid e s re turn h e se t a b o ut c o n structi ng
.

a s o rt o f ra ft by which me a n s I a n d t h e o the r n on
,

swi mme r s we re t o c ro ss I wa tche d h i s pro c e e dings

.

n a tura lly wit h s o me i n t e r e s t a n d i n a v e ry fe w mi n utes

, , .

wh e n it wa s fi n i sh e d e xcl a i me d A n d i s thi s th e b ark “

, ,

”
w hich i s to c a rry C ae sa r a n d h i s fo rtu n e s P I t wa s simply
a fa ggo t o f s tick s t h e bigge st sca rc e h a l f a s thick a s your
,

wri s t mo st o f th e m gre e n an d a ll sa tura t e d w ith water in

, , ,

fa ct b a rri n g t h e l a s t t wo qu a lifica ti o n s j u s t s uch a bundle

, ,

a s a n o ld w o ma n wo uld c a rry u n d e r h e r a rm fr o m a he d e
g
b o tt o m I tri e d i ts b uo yan cy in a c o rn e r o f b ackwater
.
,

a n d l a ugh e d h e a rtily a t i ts ma k e r o n fi n d i n g th a t it cou ld

 Cm . xxx I I I .
yo UR N E V TO CA F TA .
43 3

v
not e en floa t itse l f, much l ess ca rry me ; but h e e xpla i n e d
t ha t th e faggo t was o n ly th e h o rse I was to b e strid e , a t
t h e same time po in ti n g out t o me th e a fo re m e n ti o n e d goa t
b ag, in to whi ch h e was p acking my wa tch an d o th e r

pe rishabl erticl es as th e floa ti n g po we r whi ch

a ,

to sus tain me This be i n g t he cas e I sugge ste d o n

.
, ,

s e e i n g him stu d i n a few sma ll a rtic l es o f clo thin g tha t th e

'

roo m h e lefi fin air th e b e tte r ; b ut h e ans were d tha t

“

a F
434 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . e mu xxx n r
!
. .

he fill e d it pre tty we ll with so lid a rticl e s in o rd e r to give

it mo re p o we r t o re si st t h e pre ssure o f th e w a te r which ,

might o th e rwi se mak e it bulge a b o ut a n d so r e n d e r my seat

ra th e r un s t e a dy H a vi n g pa cke d it h e pro c e e d e d to blow
.
,

it full an d se cure d th e mo uth with a s t rin g ; it was n ext

,

ti e d t o o n e e n d Of th e faggo t an d th e wh o l e m a chi n e placed

,

o n t h e e dg e o f a ro ck t h e t o p o f which w as a b o ut n ine
,

i n che s u n de r wa t e r Two lad s wh o co uld n o t swim and

.
, ,

e t v o lu n t e e r e d t o a cc o mp an y me g o t d o w n a n d h e ld it
y , ,

o n e o n e a ch sid e ; I mo un t e d stra ddl e l e gs w i t h th e b ag -

,

i n fro n t o f me t h e guid e h o ldin g by a r o p e w hich was to

,

l e a d us : h e wo uld n o t put th e ro pe ro u n d h i s sho ul der ,

a s i s cu s t o ma ry l e st as h e a ft e rward s e xpl a i n e d w e c o ming

, , , ,

t o gri e f sh o uld dra g h i m with us

, Th e o t h e r t wo swimmers
.

fo ll o we d b e hi n d t o give us a n o cc a si o n a l pu s h w h e n n oces
sa ry. I n thi s o rd e r o f pro c e ssi o n we dro p pe d in to the
s tre a m a n d a wa y we we n t
, I c an co n v e y n o b e tt e r i dea
.

o f t h e p a c e a t which w e we re ca rri e d d o wn t h e mo me nt

w e go t i n t o t h e curre n t th an by me n ti o n i n g t ha t I felt
e xa ctly t h e sa me sha rp thrill up my b a ck th a t o n e do es

wh e n c o mi n g d o wn wa rd s fro m a c o n sid e ra b l e h e ight in a

s wi n g a n d th a t a n i n st a n t a ft e r o ur l a u n ch turn i n g ro und
, ,

t o a n swe r t o t h e ch e e rs o f t h e me n w h o m w e h ad left
b e hi n d I sa w th e m run n i n g but a t two o r th re e hun dred
, ,
’
yard s di s ta n c e I n a fe w se c o n d s we p a ss e d t h e man who
.

h a d first sw um a cr o ss a n d wa s a wa iti n g o ur a rriva l at the

,

sp o t wh e re w e h a d e xp e ct e d t o l a n d H e sh o ut e d t o us to
.

s trik e o ut ma n fully fo r t h e sh o re as t h e re w as a
, farra
”
s e yn i a ( h o r se m a n m e,
a n i n g w hi rlp o o l
) j u s t b e l o w T h e .

guid e h a d hith e rt o se e me d to ha ve fo rgo tt e n t o swim but ,

n o w h e put h i s b a ck t o it an d a id e d by t h e o th e r men
, , ,

t u mbl e d us s o me h o w o r o t h e r o n t o a stu m p o f a tre e from ,

which wi th s o me di fficulty we w e re ha ul e d a s h o re As for .

o ur p a ssage n a rr o w a s t h e t o rre n t was w e m us t h a ve been

, ,

c a rri e d n e a re r h a lf a mil e th an a qua rt e r b e fo re we got

a cro ss it My chi e f gro u n d o f fe a r w a s l e s t o n e o f my
.

na nger s on s h o uld b e flurri e d a n d o ve rs e t m e b ut truly they

-

b e ha v e d ve ry we ll ; a j o kin g w o rd with a li ft b t h e nose , y ,

43 6 LI F E IN A B YS S I I VI A . C H AP . XXXI I I .

so we lay d o wn u n d e r a tre e an d awa it ed th e a rrival Of some

O f t h e c o u n try p e o pl e . Mo st o f th e fro n ti e r villa ges in thi s
n e ighb o u rh o o d a re c o n struct e d o n high pl a c e s so mewhat ,

difli c ult o f a cc e ss a n d so me a re furt h e r pr o t e ct e d by a sur

,

ro u n d in g wa ll ; th e se p re ca uti o n s are ta k e n t o pre ve n t the

i n h a b ita n ts fro m be i ng surpri se d by t h e ra th e r t o o warm vi sits
o f th e i r n e i ghb o urs t h e B a re a .

It wa s n e a r su n se t wh e n we ar rive d a n d s h o rtly after , , ,

a p e a san t with a fl o ck o f go a ts p a sse d us o n h i s wa y ho me

wa rd . Se e i n g th a t w e we re h a lf sta rve d h e e n d e avo ure d to

-

drive a v e ry hard ba rga i n with us but a t la s t w e in duced ,

h i m to se ll us a littl e milk a n d a n o ld h e go a t fo r twice its -

v alu e I f an y o n e o f my re ad e rs is fo n d o f sa v o ury di shes

.
,

i n t h e sha p e o f high ga me & c a n d wa n t s a c ha n ge le t him

, .
, ,

g o t o t h e g o a t s a n d s e l e ct a fin e o l d p a t ri a rc h f a th e r o f th e ,

fl o ck ch o o se th e o n e tha t h a s th e l o n ge s t h o rn s wears
, ,

t h e fi n e st b e a rd ,sta mp s mo st with h i s fo r e fee t sn o rts -

,

l o ud e st an d ble a ts gruffe st ; le t h im tak e h i m a n d having

, , ,

kill e d an d fl aye d h im lay hi m o n th e e mb e rs fo r a few

,

mi n ute s till h e i s a b o ut wa rme d thro ugh a n d th e n eat him ,

a ll but raw a s we did fro m sh e e r hu n ge r

, Le t h i m do this .
,
’
a n d i f h e d o n t fin d fl a v o ur e n o u gh fo r a n y o n e h e ma sa
, y y ,
’ ’
tha t I d o n t kn o w w hat s go o d ; an d if h e ge t t h e tas te out ,

o f h i s m o uth fo r a we e k I sh o uld fe e l o blige d t o h i m fo r the

,

n a me a n d a ddre s s o f h i s t o o th b ru sh ma k e r -
Aft e r o ur rather .

t o o sa v o u ry me a l we a sc e n d e d a n d sl e pt i n th e vill age N ext .

m o rn i n g w e re sume d o ur ro a d ; but h e re a ga in I m u st re mi nd
”
t h e re a d e r tha t th o ugh I fre qu e n tly us e t h e w o rd
,
ro ad in ,

mo st c a se s it me re ly m e a n s o ur dire cti o n ro ut e o r j o urney , , ,

fo r th e re a re n o ro a d s a t a ll in A byss i n i a o n ly h e re and ,

the re i n th e p o pul o u s an d mo st fre que n t e d di st ricts are

tra ce s lik e sh e e p p ath s wh e re a succe ssi o n o f p a sse rs have
-
,

w o rn a wa y th e h e rb age whil e o n man y r o ut e s such a s that

, ,

I a m n o w d e scribin g thre e o r fo ur da ys m a y p as s without

,

yo ur m e e ti n g with a n y sign t o sh o w th a t h u ma n b e in gs have

e v e r tra v e ll e d tha t w a b e fo r o u
y e y .

F ro m A mba A bra h a m we d e sc e n d e d t h e hill th ro ugh

a ro ugh ma ss o f s t o n e s a n d th o rn y bu sh e s w h i c h tu mbled
,
CH AP. XXXI I I .
7 G ’
UR N E Y 7 0 CA F TA .
43 7

us o ver an d
t o re o ur cl o the s a t e v e ry st e p My ho rse which .
,

w a s wa lki n g a l o n e p e rfo rm e d a c o mpl e t e su mme rse t t um

, ,

bli n g he a d o ve r he e l s ( o r ra th e r vi ce ver s a) fro m th e t o p o f

a s ma ll ro ck i n t o a ma ss o f bu sh e s b e l o w with n o w o r s e ,

m i sfo rtun e h o we ve r than th e bre aka ge o f h i s saddl e

, ,
My .

m ul e al s o ro ll e d rid e r an d all d o wn a b a n k but we go t up

, , ,

a g a i n a ll th e b e tt e r fo r it .

We h a d b e e n le d t o e xp e ct th a t o n re a chi n g th e pl ain , ,

w e sh o uld fin d a t ra ck which th e p e o pl e o f th e la st vill a ge

sa id wo uld guid e us fo r so me d i sta n c e o n o ur wa A ft e r
y .

s o me se a rch we c a me up o n it b ut i t was s o fa i n t a n d so ,

v a r i cose th a t we se v e ra l ti me s l o s t it b e fo re r e a chi n g t h e

Q u o l li ma a rivul e,t (n o w a l mo s t a riv e r ) di s ta n t so m e fo ur o r

fiv e mil e s fro m th e vill age w e h a d l e ft We fo un d it t o b e .

a b o ut k n e e d e e p a n d th e stre a m v e ry stro n g
-
,
Thre e o r fo ur .

m il e s fa rth e r we c a me t o D e n de i aqua a stre a ml e t whi c h ,

w ith t h e la st j o i n s th e Zarrima b e fo re re achi n g t h e Ta c ca z y .

H e re I re st e d u n d e r t h e shad e o f so me tre e s i n o n e o f th e ,

m o st picture squ e sp o t s I e ve r saw So me o f o ur p e o pl e .

w h o h a d b e e n l o ite ri n g b e hi n d c a me up with us a t thi s

pl a c e a n d bro ught me a l e ath e r p o uch tha t I u sua lly ca rri e d
,

o n my sa ddl e b o w a n d which th e y h a d fo u n d o n t h e gr o u n d
-
,

w h e re my mul e h a d ro ll e d w ith me i t s fo rm e r c o n t e n t s my ,

n o t e b o o k pip e an d t o ba cc o we re h o we ve r n o t with it so
-
, , , , , ,

I s e n t t wo me n ba ck aga in t o l o o k fo r th e m Thi s wa s my .

s e c o n d l o ss o f t h e sa me n a ture th o ugh it w a s o f slight i m ,

p o rta n ce fo r t h e b o o k o n ly co n ta i n e d a fe w sk e tche s an d
,

m y j o urn al fro m Ad o u a My gre at l o ss wa s in t h e Za rrima

. .

D e lay e d by thi s circu mstan c e a n d an xi o u s t o giv e th e me s,

s e n ge rs a ch a n c e o f o v e rt aki n g us w e h a lt e d fo r t h e n igh t ,

o n th e M o n ke y s s tre a m (Ma i Waag) di s t a n t no t m o re th an

’
,

a m il e fro m t h e l a s t Th e w h o l e Of t h e n e xt da y wa s sp e n t
.

i n wan d e ri n g a bo ut n o n e o f us h a vi n g a n y id e a o f t h e d ire c
,

ti o n we o ught t o fo ll o w We p a sse d th e n ight o n a sma ll .

b ro o k c all e d Wai v a
,
It wa s a pre tty rivul e t a n d t h e cl e an
.
,

s a n d which e dge d it t e mpt e d us t o l i e d o wn cl o se t o t h e

w a te r We sle pt d e lici o u sly ; it was th e mo st co mfo rtabl e

.

c o uch I h a d l ai n o n fo r man y a n ight B ut so me e n vi o u s .

43 8 LI F E IN AB YS S I N I A . CH AP . XXXI I I

go d o r go dd e ss l o o ki n g o n o ur po siti o n as t o o sn ug com
, ,

p are d with h is o r h er damp b e d o n a cl o ud m i schi evo usly ,

dro ppe d so me we t o n th e hill s which s o sw e ll e d th e rivulet

,

th at I awo k e a littl e a fte r mid n ight fan cyi n g th a t it was very

co ld an d fo u n d tha t we we re a ll lyi n g in s ix i n c h e s Of water
,
.

So me o f t h e p art y go t up a b o ut t h e same m o m e n t but such , ,

i s t h e wo n d e rful t e n a city wi th which M o rp h e u s ho lds the

e ye lid s O f ma n y n igge r s th a t we h a d t h e gre a te s t difficulty
,

in ma kin g o n e o r two o f t h e o the rs budge an d whe n by , ,

di n t o f kickin g an d sho uti n g we go t th e m t o ri s e it was o nly , ‘

t o sta gge r awa y a few p a ce s a n d th en a l l we t a s t h e y were

, , ,

th e y tu mbl ed d o wn an d ro lli n g the mse lv e s up we n t to sleep

, ,

agai n mo re s o u n dly than b e fo re M a kin g t h e be st o f an

.

u n c o mfo rt abl e bu sin e ss th e re st o f us so o n fo ll o we d their

,

e xa m pl e N e xt day a fte r a fe w mo re wa n d e ri n gs we came

.
, ,
’
On t o t h e tra ck mad e by th e passage o f L e mm a s tro o p s the
'

pre vi o u s y e a r an d still visibl e i n pl a ce s ; aft e r fo ll o wi n g its

,

dire cti o n fo r so me ti me it le d us t o a m o r e b e a ten path ,

u se d by th e p e asan try o f th e co u n try w h e n go in g to their

maz z a ga s th at i s t h e lo w fla t s o f da rk s o il which the
, ,

p e o pl e cultiva te th o ugh th e y li v e o n t h e n e ighbo uring

,

hills th e maz z agas at ce rta in se a so n s o f t h e y e a r be in g very

,

u n h e a lthy A ll o ur j o urn e y fro m A m b a A bra h a m lay

.

a cro s s th e s e pl ai n s I n pl ac e s th e c o u n try was w e ll woo ded

.

with mi mo sas an d o th e r t re e s an d wh e n e v e r we p assed , ,

a t a ll n e a r th e i nh abit e d hill s we sa w gr e a t pl e n ty of
,

c o tt o n a n d o th e r cro p s Th e se pl a in s a re a bu n d antly
.

wa t e re d n u me r o u s stre ams cro ssi n g th e m o n th e ir way

,

t o th e Ta c ca z y .

Afte r c o n tin uin g o ur n e w ro a d fo r a fe w mil e s w e e n te red

a d e n se fo re st o f mi mo sa s which sh a d e d us th r o ugh o ut the
,

re mai n d e r o f th e day ; a t n ight we camp e d n e a r th e bro ok

Min min a i A t thi s se aso n o f th e ye a r t h e w h o l e co untry
.

i s we ll m o i ste n e d by th e rai n s an d t h e l o w pl a i n s such as

, ,

t h e ma z z aga we we re cro ssi n g a re d ee p i n mud whi ch , ,

i s highly di sagre eabl e t o a ba re fo o t e d p e d e s t ri a n th e mo is ,

ture so ft e n i n g th e ski n a n d makin g it mo r e p e n e tra bl e by

th o rn s Th e re ade r will say th at thi s fact migh t h ave been
.
. 440 LIF E IN AB YS S I N I A . C H AP . XXXI I I .

ju st la rge e n o ugh to co n t ai n me a l o n e B ut h e wo uld

.

n o t li st e n t o re aso n — a n sw e ri n g t o my p o lit e s p e e ch o nly

by se izi n g th e co rn e r o f my l e a th e r w ith h i s t ee th and ,

tuggi n g a way a t it in t h e mo st syste ma tic ma n n e r till after , ,

g e tti n g a fe w qu a rt s o f ra i n i n t o m y b e d I w as o
,
blig e d to

ma k e th e b e s t o f a b a d jo b a n d le t h im in e n d e a vo uring at ,

t h e sa me ti me t o l e av e h i m th e o ut sid e pl a c e fo r th e skin ,

which wa s wrapp e d ro u n d me h al f o ve r a n d h a l f u n d e r was

, ,

n o t br o a d H e h o we v e r wa s se lfi sh I fe a r fo r h e wo uld not
.
, , , ,

b e s ati sfi e d u n til h e h a d go t i n t o t h e fo ld l e a v i n g me in ,

t h e wo rst pl a ce an d gro wli n g a n d s n a rli n g a t me if I

,
.

a tt e mpt e d t o re si st H i s p e rtin acity w a s t o o a mu sin g to

.

a ll o w me t o ge t an ry d I w i g r l t sl ee py
g an , a s n e n e a o o

t o h a ve tr o ubl e d my se l f ab o ut th e ma tt e r i f h e wo ul d b ut
h av e k e pt s till wh e n h e wa s th e re B ut n o such luck if .
—
a hya e n a o r o t h e r a n i ma l ch o se t o a ppr o a ch o ur ca mp fifty

time s durin g t h e n ight e a ch time my d o g w o uld start up

, ,

a n d pl a n ti n g h i s gre a t p aws o n t o m e y e s n o s e m o uth o r

, y , , ,

a n y p art O f m b o dy w hich h pp e n d t l i e i h i dir e cti o n

y a e o n s ,

b a rk hi mse l f i n t o a fury fo r a fe w se c o n d s a n d th e n dash ,

of f i n pursuit dra ggi n g o ff my c o v e ri n g a n d l e a vin g me

, ,

puri s n at ura li b us a t th e me rcy o f th e s t o rm Often

,
”
.

did I v o w tha t h e sh o uld di sturb me n o m o re a n d as ,

o fte n w o uld h e re turn we t a n d re e ki n

g fr o m h i s e xp e diti o n ,
’
s o me ti m e s with bl e e di n g ma rk s o f t h e hyae n a s t e e th and
,

s e rv e m e a s b e fo re Thi s i s a sampl e o f t h e w a y w e passed

.

o ur n ight s .

To wa rd s n o o n o f th e day fo ll o win g we b e ga n gra du al ly to

a sc e n d fro m th e ma z z a ga o n t o th e i n h a bit e d ta bl e l a n d of -

Wa lkait o n o ur way we pa sse d so m e sm a ll village s the ,

i n h abita n t s o f which we re i n a d e lightful s ta t e o f primitive

s i mplicity wh o l e p o pul a ti o n s turn i n g o ut t o se e a white man
,

fo r t h e fir st ti me in th e i r live s an d willin gly e x c h a n gin g any

,

littl e n e c e ssa ri e s we r e quire d fo r a fe w n e e d l e s o r gla ss be ads

’
T o ward s thre e o r fo ur o cl o ck we b e ga n cli m bi n g th e hill on
which th e vill age o f Q uo lli ta s tan d s It w a s a S pl e n did wild
.

a sc e n t . I n so me pl a c e s t h e ro cky hill si d e w as c o v e re d with

-

sh rub s i n o th e rs we p a sse d a l o n g n ar o w l e d e s o v e rh an i n
, r g g g
C um x x x ur .
7 O UR N E Y TO CA F TA .
44 :

d e e p a n d wo o dy ravi n e s ; a b o ve us ro se th e mo u n ta i n an d ,

b e lo w a t a gre a t di stan c e wa s spre a d th e bro a d fla t o f t h e

, ,

m a z z aga Ar riv e d o n th e summit wha t a magn ific en t vi e w

.
,

a w a it e d us ! Th e wh o l e o f my ro ute fro m Ma ito wa ro lay

b e fo re me lik e a pan o ra ma Th e hill s o f Addaro we re.

vi s ible in th e di s ta n c e b e a ri n g a littl e n o rth o f e a st an d

, ,

fo rmi n g th e b o u n d a ry o f t h e vast tra ct o f c o u n try which lay .

b e twe e n us a n d which fro m o ur e l e vati o n an d di sta n c e

, , ,

a pp e a re d a p e rfe ct pl ai n t h e va ll e y o f th e Ta c c a z w i di g
, y n n

thro ugh it an d t h e mo u n ta in o f A mba Abraham app e a re d

,

quite cl o se t o us Th e two se rvant s who m I h a d se n t ba ck

.

fo r my l o s t n o t e b o o k h a d a fte r a fr uitl e ss search a rrive d

-
, ,

b e fo re us by a di ffe r e n t ro ute : we fo un d th e m o n th e t o p o f
t h e hill l o o ki n g o ut fo r us ; the y h a d pre p a re d a l o dgi n g
i n th e villa ge wh e re we we re we ll r e c e iv e d an d c o mfo rta bly
,
’
h o u se d fo r th e n igh t Our n e xt d a y s ro a d wa s o ve r a ve ry
d iffe ren t kin d Of co un try fro m tha t o f th e pre vi o u s d ays —a
.

hilly a n d mo d e rat e ly we ll p o pul a t e d di strict : we p a sse d fo ur

,

village s t h e la st o f which So la i s like Q uo lli ta o f c o n sid e r

, , , , ,

a bl e siz e A fe w mil e s fro m thi s pl a c e bro ught us t o C afta

.
,

t h e fro n ti e r t o wn o f thi s p a rt o f A by ssi n i a an d th e ma rk e t ,

t o whi ch t h e A rab s fro m s o me o f th e S e n n ari pro vi n c e s

re s o rt. It happ e n e d to b e ma rke t d ay a n d a rrivi n g e a rly i n -

t h e a fte rn o o n I s tro ll e d a b o ut wh il e my p e o pl e so ught fo r

,

l o dgi n gs I attra cte d much a tte n ti o n b e in g quite a n o ve lty

.
, .

B y mo st p e o pl e I was v o t e d a spy ; by all I wa s pro n o un c e d

a Turk fo r as i n Tigre t h e y k n o w a ll wh it e s by th e n a me o f
, ,

C o pt s so he re we are a ll o f th e family o f Othman

,
I me t .

s e v e ra l Arab s wh o se c o stu me wa s pre ci se ly th a t o f all t h e

,

N ubian B e d o ui n s ; the y h a d bro ught a qua n tity o f sa lt fro m

t h e n e ighb o urho o d o f So uakim an d we re purcha si n g sl a ve s ,

a n d o the r a rticl e s o f A by ssi n i an e xp o rt Th e ma rke t wa s .

cro wd e d ; th e prin cip a l go o ds o ffe r e d fo r sal e se e me d t o b e

c o u n try c o tt o n stu ffs h o rse s an d sl a v e s
,
Th e ho rse s a n d
, .

s l a v e s a pp ea re d t o me t o b e o f v e ry i n fe ri o r qu a lity th e ,

fo rme r fe tchi n g fro m thre e to n in e d o llars ( m s to .

U s . a n d t h e l a tt e r v e ry l o w pric e s c o mp a r e d w ith
w h a t I h a d se en at M a ssawa an d e ven Ad o ua Th e cl o th s .
442 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . cm . xx xn r
.

of Walka it kn o wn all o v e r t h e co un try ; they are

are we ll
n o t quit e so much e st e e me d as th o s e o f o th e r p a rt s o f Tigre ,

b ut are man ufa cture d i n great qu an tity an d are so ld ve ry ,

che a p My re puta ti o n o f be in g a Turk h a d th e e ffect of

.

O bta i n i n g a dire ct r e fusa l o f l o dgi n g whe rev e r w e a ppli ed for

it ; an d n o twi t hs tan din g all my a sse rti o n s t o t h e co ntrary ,

a n d t h e use o f e ve ry me an s o f p e rs u a si o n I c o uld c o mman d ,

it wa s n o t till l a te th at I go t l e a v e fro m a v e ry p o o r man to

o ccupy a wr e tch e d h o v e l adj o i n i n g h i s h a bita ti o n Here I .

d e te rmin e d o n a qui e t halt fo r a fe w d a y s a s I a n d mo st of ,

my se rvan ts h a d b e e n mo re o r l e ss a ilin g e v e r si n ce o ur
supp e r a t Am b a Abra ha m t h e o ld h e g o a t we h a d eat en
,
-

th e re n e ve r ha vi n g be e n at all di sp o se d t o re s t e a sy in o ur
st o ma ch s I was n o t l o n g l e ft in p e a c e fo r t h e thi rd night
.
,

I was awak e n e d by a n o ise an d fo un d my h o ve l full of ,

so ldi e rs w h o with a go o d d e al o f ro ugh l a n g ua ge i n fo rmed

, , ,

me tha t I wa s the ir pri so n e r It wa s a p a rty fr o m th e camp

.

o f Lidge H a i lo g o v e rn o r Of th e fro n ti e r a n d o n e o f Dej

, , atch
’
Guan gwo ul s pri n cip a l me n I was wro n g i n sayi ng that
.

the y we re ro ugh fo r it was o n ly th e ir l e a d e r B e lla dta Wassan

, ,

an ugly o ld bru t e wh o b e gan t o bully a n d b lu s t e r as so on

,

a s h e go t i n Ill a n d we ak a s I wa s th e y c a rri e d me Off

.
, ,

thro ugh a p o uri n g ra in t o th e camp m o re th a n a mil e dis

, ,

ta n t H e re I was i n tro duce d t o Lidge H ai lo w h o assumed

.
,

t h e t o n e a n d ma n n e rs o f a judg e B e i n g ill I wa s rath er

.

cro ss an d it e n d e d in my b e in g c o n sign e d t o a squad of

,

so ldi e r s with o rd e rs th a t I wa s n o t t o l e a v e th e ir b ut o n any

,

pre te xt n o r t o ha ve a cc e ss t o my bagga ge o v e r which a

, ,

g u a rd w a s pl a c e d n o r t o b e a ll o w e d a n
, y c o mm u n ica ti o n

wi th my se rvan t s I co uld o b ta in n o thin g fro m th e chief in

.

e xpl a n a ti o n o f th e mo tiv e o f a ll thi s rigo ur e x c e pt t h a t such ,

we r e h i s o rd e rs SO I wa s le d o ff t o m y p ri s o n ; it was a
.

ve ry co mfo rta bl e go o d siz e d hut an d t h e c hi e f h ad the

,
-
,

pro pri e ty t o dire ct th a t a stre tche r a n d pi e c e o f hid e sho uld

b e furn i sh e d me fo r a b e d I so o n sle pt Off my t ro ubl es
.
,

n o t with sta n di n g t h e n o i s e ma d e by m y c o mpa n i o n s or

g u a rd s .N e xt d a y I a w o k e quit e i n m y u s ua l s ta t e o f p h ilo
So phy an d highly a mu se d a t m sit ua ti T h l d i
, y o n e so ers .
444 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . C HAP . xxx m .

bulli e d by the m a s I sh o uld ce rta i n ly ha v e b e e n h a d I co n

,

ducte d myse l f o t h e rwi se Le t thi s b e a w a rn i n g to h ot

.

h ea d e d t rav e ll e rs My gre a te st di sco mfo rt a r o se fro m my

.

c o mpla in t which h ad in cre a se d pro ba bly fro m go o d living

,

a t C afta an d t h e n a ture o f w hich re n d e r e d m y c o n fi n e ment

,

t o t h e b ut highly irk so me B ut thi s o n ly se rv e d t o draw o ut

.

t h e go o d qu a liti e s o f my c o mra d e s wh o c o n triv e d fo r me all ,

so rt s o f littl e n e c e ssa ry co n v e n i e n c e s a n d w e n t abo ut in ,

se arch o f me dici n e s Th e y pro cure d m e so m e pu n ge n t ro ot

.

o r o th e r w hich se e me d t o d o me a gre a t d e a l o f go o d so
, ,

much so tha t o n th e third day o f my im pri s o n me n t I was

,

u i t w e ll A b o ut t h e sa me p e ri o d o n e o f m rv t
q e .
y se an s ,

wh o th o ugh u n d e r surv e ill an c e w e re all o w e d th e ir fre edo m

, , ,

l e ft C a fta se cre tly duri n g th e n ight an d w e n t stra ight o ff

’
t o D e ja tc h G uan gwo ul wh o s e camp w a s a b o ut t wo days
,

j o urn e y dista n t a n d re pre se n te d me a s a fri e n d o f Dejatch

,
’
Oub i s se n t by h i m t o Se n n ar t o pro cure h i m s o me gun s .

Th e re was so me d e mur ab o ut wh e the r thi s l ie w as to be

b e li e ve d an d whe the r I o ught n o t t o b e k e pt till th e cessa
,

t i o n o f th e ra i n s sh o uld all o w a me sse n ge r t o cro ss th e Tac

ca zy an d in quire o f Oubi Luckily fo r m e o n e o f Gu . ang ,
’
w o ul s a tt e n d an t s h a d s e e n me fre qu e n tly i n c o mp an y and
’
i n ti ma te with h is mast e r s bro th e r De ja tc h Sh et o u This , .

was t o ld t o th e y o un g p ri n c e a n d it w a s a l s o a rgu e d that,

Oubi b e in g d e t e rmin e d o n a wa r e xp e d iti o n i mme diately

,

t h e d ry se a so n se t i n wo uld b e an gry wit h th e m i f by

, ,

d e ta i n i n g me th e y sh o uld pre ve n t th e gu n s a rrivi n g in ti me ;

it ha ppily e n d e d in my se rvan t b e i n g s e n t b a ck an d with
h im a so ldi e r wh o b o re a me ssage t o Lid ge H a i l o t o lib e rate
me i n st a n tly tre a t m e with th e gre a t e s t p o s s ib l e ki n d n ess
, ,

a n d fo rwa rd m e o n my w ay t o t h e b e st o f h i s po w e r These .

o rd e rs w e r e o b e y e d t o t h e l e tt e r I re ally b e li e v e th a t H ailo
.

i s a n exc e ll e n t fe ll o w th o ugh h is c o u n s e ll o r Wa ssa n is a

,

brut e tha t d e se rv e s flayi n g H ai lo i n vit e d m e a t o n ce to.

sup with h i m a n d tr e a t e d me with t h e utm o s t fa m ili a rit

, y .

s e a ti n g m e by h im a n d pr e ssi n g me t o dri n k l a rge ly wi th

h im . A s a ma rk o f e sp e ci al e s te e m h e ga v e m e a small
stick t h e e n d o f which wa s cro o k e d a n d c ut i n t o t e e th like
,
CH A P . XXXI I I .
7 0 UR N E Y TO CA F TA .
445

a c o mb , t h e use fo r which it wa s in te n d e d b e in g to scra tch

’
o n e s o wn ba ck I n e ve r ma d e o ut t h e e xact mo t i v e o f my
.

de te n ti o n but su sp e ct I may ha v e b e e n tak e n fo r o n e o f th e

,

Gre e k silv e rsmiths Aft e r I h ad l e ft h i m a n d re turn e d t o

.

my o ld qua rt e rs a t C afta h e s e n t me a b o un tiful supply o r ,

fo o d fo r my supp e r an d a n a z mary o r bu ffo o n t o ch e e r my

,

e v e n in g . N e xt d ay a se c o n d supply wa s bro ught me an d a ,

sin gin g wo ma n o f c o n sid e ra bl e ta l e n t a cc o mp a n i e d it I .

was by thi s ti me quit e a li o n n o l o n ge r a T urk but a fri e n d , ,

’
o f t h e chi e f s a n d a mo st cultiva bl e a cqu a i n ta n c e
,
so I

was v i s it e d by cro wd s o f p e o pl e a ll c o n gra tula ti n g me o n

my lib e ra ti o n a n d man y bri n gi n g m e pre se n t s Of e at abl e s
,
.

V e ry di ffe re n t thi s fro m th e re c e pti o n th e y gav e me o n my

fi rs t a rriva l I wa s e n tre a t e d t o re ma i n thro ugh th e ra in s
.
,

a n d th e n if I mu s t go t o ta k e th e wa o f G o n d ar t h e ro ut e
, y , ,

I h a d cho se n b e in g re pre se n t e d a s full o f d a n ge rs p artly ,

’
fro m fe ve r an d p a rtly fro m t h e h a tre d tha t N imr s p e o pl e
,

ha v e fo r a Turk B ut t h e ma in O bj e ct I h a d i n un de rtaki n g
.

t hi s j o urn e y wa s t o vi sit thi s sam e N i mr t h e c e l e bra t e d ,

J aly chi e ftai n, wh o ha vin g kill e d I sma e l P a ch a Mo hamme d

, ,
’
A li s s o n h a d fle d fro m h i s h o me a t Sh e n dy o n t h e N il e
'

, ,

a n d s e ttl e d with a n u mb e r o f h is o wn trib e a n d o th e r

,

re fug e e s o f a ll bre e d s a n d c o l o ur s o n t h e n e utra l gr o u n d ,

b e twe e n th e Egyptian pro vi n ce s o f N ubi a an d A by ssi n i a

Pr o p e r SO t h e se co n d da y afte r my lib e ra ti o n I start e d o n
.
, ,

m y way re a ch e d h i s a b o d e i n sa fe ty re ma i n e d with h im
, ,

s o m e ti me a n d th e n p a sse d t o So ufi o n t h e o th e r sid e o f
, ,

t h e rive r A tb a ra t h e g e o graphic a l fro n ti e r o f A by ssi n i a

, ,
I .

w a s pl e a se d t o h e a r fro m Sir Samue l B a k e r th e o n ly Euro ,

e an b e sid e my se lf wh o h a s vi sit e d th e m th a t I an d my d o g
p ,

Ma ych al B o ggo we re still ki n dly re me mb e re d by th e h o s

i t a b l e o utl aw s T h e subj e ct o f th e pre s e n t v o lu me b e i n g
p .

limite d t o A byssin i a an d th e A byssi n i a n s 1 sh all say n o ,

m o re o f th e m n o r o f th e fo ur ye ars I p a ss e d in N ubia
, ,

S e n n ar an d K o rd o fan o n th e Whit e N il e w ith t h e d e se rt

, , ,

B e d o ui n s a n d in Egypt e xc e pt th a t i n t h e wo rd s o f
“
,
o ur ,

m utu al fri e n d Mr Samu e l Pickwick I shall n e v e r re gre t

“
.
,

h a vin g d e v o te d th e gre at e r p a rt o f n i ne ye a rs t o mixi n g with

446 LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A . Cm . xxxru .

va ri e ti e s a n d sha d e s o f human char a ct e r frivola ls

'

d ifle re n t ,

as my pursuit o f n o ve lty may h a v e a pp e a r e d t o many .

N ume ro u s sce n e s o f w hich I h a d n o ln

vi o us c o n c e pti o n have d awn e d up o n me I h o p e to tb ,

e n la rge me n t o f my min d an d th e i mpro v e me n t o f my undm

s ta n di n g . I f I have d o n e but littl e go o d I trus t I have ,

d o n e l e ss harm an d tha t n o n e o f my a d v e n t ure s will b e

,

o th e r tha n a so urc e o f a mus in g an d pl e a s an t r e c o ll e ctio ns to

me in th e d ec li n e o f l ife G o d bl e ss yo u all
.

TH E E N D .

PR I N TED B Y “WI-LI AM C LO WES A N D S O N S , DU KE S TREET, ST A N FO RD st un ,

A N D C H A RI NO CRO SS .
 U N I FO RM WIT H T H E P RE S E NT WO RK .

T R A VE LS A N D A D VE N TU R E S .

C H OI C E E D I TI O N S .

U n d e r t h i s t i t l e i t i s i n t e n d e d t o i ssue o cc a s i o n a lly N ew E d i ti o n s
o f VOY A G E S a n d TRA V E L S, poss e s s i ng pe r ma n e n t i n t er es t, i n c o n

v e n ie n t siz e d vo lume s , pri n t e d in l

c e ar t ype , o n go o d p p ,
a e r w ith
I ll ust ra t i o n s wh e n n e c e s s ary, s o as to fo rm a c o mpa ct l ib ra ry o f
I N ST R U CT I V E an d E N TER TA I N I N G B o o k s, s ui t a b e l fo r a ll C LA S SE S
of R EA D E R S .

TH E F O LLOWI NG V
H A E B EEN PU B LI S H ED

I. —VI S I TS TO TH E MO N A S T E R I E S O F T H E LE VA N T .

B y th e H on. R OB E RT C U RZ O N . Wi h I llt us t ra ti ons Po st 8vo 7 s 6d

. . . .

II —M I S S I O N A RY TR AVE LS AN DR E S E A R CH E S I N
SO U T H A F R I C A W ll
.

. By D AV I D L I V I N GSTON E M D i th I us tra t i ons , . . .

Po s t 8vo . 6s .

III —B U B B LE S F R OM TH E B R U N N E N O F N A SS A U .

H A W ll
.

B y an OLD MA N (S I R F RA N C I S EAD B RT ) i th I us tra tio ns

, I ns t. .

8 vo 7 s 6d
. . .

lv —LE TTE R S F R O M H I G H LA T I T U D E S ; an A c c o un t
YA V A t IC A J
.

f o a CH T OY GE o EL N D, A N MA v E N an d S N T Z B E RG E N &c By
LO R D D U F F E R I N With I llu t ti
, .
,

. s ra o n s. Po s t 8vo .
7 s 6d
. .

v —N I N E VE H AN D I TS R E MA I N S . A N arra t i v e o f an
H
.

E x pe d i t i o n t o A ss v n rA i n 1 845 , 1 846 , an d 1 8 47 B y A U STE N LA YAR D

W ll
. .
,

MP, D CL
. . . i t h I us trati o n s
. . Po s t 8 v o 7 3 6d . . . .

v1 —
N I N E VE H AN D B A B YLO N . A N a rra t iv e of a S e co n d
A
.

E x pe d i ti o n t o A S S Y R I i n 1 8 49 , 1 8 5 0 , a n d 1 8 5 1 B y A USTEN H LA YAR D
W ll
. .
,

MP, D CL
. . . .i th I us tra ti o ns
. Pos t 8 vo 7 s 6d . . . .

VI L —LI F E IN A B YS S I N I A : B e in g N o te s co ll e ct ed d uri n g a
Th re e Ye a rs
'
l
R e s id e n c e a n d Tra v e s i n t ha t o un try C By MAN S F I E LD
W ll
.

P A R KY N S . i t h I us t ra t io ns Po st 8 vo 7 s 6d
. . . .

TO B E FO LLOW ED B Y O T H ER PO P U LAR T RAVELS .

JO H N MU R RA Y , A LB E MARLE S TR EET .
 LAT E LY P U B L I S H E D .

D ea n S ta n ley
’
s H i s to r ica l M emor ia ls of Wes tminster
Ab b ey . S econ d E dit io n . I ll us trat io n s . 8vo . 1 6s .

Th e Me m o ri al s , ’
at tracti ve in st y e l
i n i n fo rm ati o n , h ave more of h an d m pl e te
p
co
c h a rm o f a o l i s h e d e ssay th an t h e d ryn ess o f an o l d C h urc h C h ro n i c l e ; t h ey cotmiu
g re a t e r a m o un t o f l e a rn i n g t h an h as e ve r e e n ro ug h t t o ge t h e r o n t h e s u jec t b efore, “ b b b
w h i c h ma y b e re ad w i t h as m uc h o f re al e njo ym e n t as i f i t were a n hi st o ri ca l ro mance! .

E x a mi n e r .

Old D ecca n D ay s or H i n do o F a i ry L eg e n d s Co llected .

fro m O ra l Tra d i ti o n B y M F RERE Wi th an I n tro duction d .

R R R
. .

N o t es b y S I R B A TL E F E E. I ll ustra ti o n s . C ro wn 8 v o . 121.

W Wood S cnpm
'

S ir . P ag e on the Co n t i n ui ty o f
S eco n d E d it io n . P o st 8 vo . 63 .

H e re we h ave o n e o f th e m o st e st e e me d o f o ur jud g bi r n gi n g m lished p W

b p p d p
es an ac co
mi n d t o e ar u o n t h e q ue st i o n o f i n s i rat i o n I n t h ese d ark an e ri l o us days it is in“
p —
.

f
a c o m o rt t o fin d o n e l i k e S i r W i l li a m Page W o o d w ri t i n g o f H o l S i t u with .
p g
y c r re
f f
t h e res h ai th o f a c h i l d l i k e h e art m e ll o we d b y t h e d e e e x pe ri e n c e o f a l o n li te r 7b

Mr . D a rw i n
’
s Va r i a t i on of A n i i n a ls and P la n ts undtr
D O M E S T I CA TI O N . I llust ra t i o ns . 2 vo ls . 8 vc . a 8s .

’
L a dy B r o w n lo w s R em i n i scen ces o f a S ept nag enanh '

F ro m 1 80 2 t o 1 8 1 5 . Tlt i rd E dit i o n . P o st 8 v o .
7s 6d . .

T h e re i s n o o n e w h o re ad s t h i s o o k w h o w o ul d n o t b gl l
ad y c o me gi
a n a t t h e call i t
R
a
S EPT U A G ENA I AN, t o h e ar mo re o f h e r re c o ll e c t i o n s
’
.
” -
Ti m e s .

Mr . S m iles
’
s A ccon n t of th e H ng n e no ts l
i n E ng la nd aw
I R E LA ND . S eco n d E di t io n . 8 vo . 1 6s .

Mr S m i l e s h as c h o se n th e ph as made it I
ro sai c si d e of H ugue n o t h i s t o ry, an d
pi i
.

f a sc i n a t i n g a s a ro m a n ce H e h as n o t e ssaye d t o d e c t t h e re l i g o us h e ro i s m o f thc wfl
.

t ra ge d y o f t h e H ugue n o t st o ry ; h e h as re s tri c t e d h i mse l t o t h e e c o n o m i cal i nfluence ‘ f

i t s m i gra t i o n s, a n d h e h as mad e t h e st at i st i c s an d e n e al o gi e s—o i w h i c h h i s wo rk b iol g
i —
’
'
i
a s n t e re s t i n g a s H o m e r s l st o f s h i s a n d h e ro es , o r as Mil t o n s a rra
’
y o f t h p
e d e migofi ‘
Ii e ll ”
. B n t is lz Q ua r te r ly R ev ie w .

A Tr n e P o r tra i t of th e P r i m i t i ve C/cn rc/t . B y Rev

E D C R E E M A ( 76 pp ) F ca p 8 y o
. .
, . . . . .

Th e Ma s sa cr e of S t B a r tlzo l o mew ;
.
pre c e d e d by a His
t o ry of th e R e l igi o us Wa rs i n th e R e ign o f C h a rl e s I X . B y HEN“
WH I T E M , . A . I l l us tra t i o n s 8 vo 1 6s . . .

Mr W h i t e ’
g ume n t s b
l usi ve a l y s u o rte d b y t h e res ults of pp
q
are e v e ryw h e re c o n c
'

i p i i
. s ar ,

re s e arc h e s n to t h e c o n t e m o rary h s to r e si o f t h e t i m e s o f w h c h h e t re a t s H is Ian“

l ways f i leb an d f re q ue n t l y rise s t o e l o q ue n c e H i s acc o un t o f t h e s t a t e o f Francc l ‘
.
'

b
a o rc
”—
.
,

mi d dle of th e i
s xt e e n th c e n t ury i s a d m i ra l e a n d e x h a ust i ve L o n d o n R ev ie w . .

JO H N M U R R A Y, A LB E MA R LE S T R E E T .