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Honey

by
Mathieu Dierinck
Introduction History of honey
"We all work with honey or different honeys, eat it, drink it with Well let’s be honest, we can’t imagine honey without talking Only halfway through the 19th century, the American reverend
milk or with lemon juice when we have a sore throat… We all about bees, and we can’t imagine flowers without bees either, Langstroth created hives with moveable frames. This meant that
hear about the bee population slowing down dramatically, and as we all know all three of them are correlated. Though the humans could check the honey production without disturbing the
about good and bad qualities of honey… and of course about first bees only appeared 25 million years after the first flowers bees too much by simple lifting out frame by frame and there
the super-expensive and the cheaper ones. where found on earth, since then both have been growing side by was no need for killing the bees responsible honey “production”.
side and have a mutual dependence on each other. This is to this day the most used method in beekeeping and
But I wanted to know what the truth was behind all of this is, the honey production, therefore mostly referred to as the
why, what and the how, and as it’s almost always the case we The first humans known to keep bees are the Mayas, thousands Langstroth method.
need to study the base before we go any further in any research of years before the Europeans even set foot to shore in South-
and development. America. The Asian honey-bee was kept in Egypt 4500 years ago
and in China 1500 years ago. In Europe, bees were really used
This is the main motivation behind this bulletin, interest, since the middle ages, due to the invention of new tools which are
knowledge and in all honesty… Because I simply love honey and still used today.
the different flavors it brings and the way it daily inspires so many
of us to buy and use it." It were the monks which where mostly in charge of keeping bees,
specially for their honey and pollination. Wild bees where caught
Mathieu Dierinck and kept in hollow tree trunks, woven baskets or clay hives, and for
harvesting the bees where killed with sulfuric smoke, hives broken
open and then the honey was harvested.

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Flower, Bee, Nectar, Honey
Why do bees produce honey? Harvesting honey
Well flowers are the main source of food for the bees, but what The honey harvesting is quite simple since most of the work has
can we do during the seasons without flowers ? Well most types of been done by the bees.
bees “solve” this problem by living fast and dying young, though
honeybees can live season after season. The first step of the process consists of lifting out a frame from
the hive, slightly shaking and smoking the frame to remove
The secret lies in their ability to change the nectar from the and confuse most bees and thus removing them making the
flowers into honey, this way they can store there food for when extraction from the hive easier.
there are no flowers. It’s because of the survival instinct of the
bees that they produce honey, not just to please us humans. Step two is cutting of the excess wax which can be created on the
Other types of bees keep just a small reserve of honey, enough to frame or on any spot within the hive where the bees have space.
eat and to reproduce. Bumblebees, the big fluffy giants, on the
other hand do produce enough honey for harvesting and they Step Three. With clean and sterilized knives, cut the top layer
keep a nice reserve. However the “production” takes somewhat of the honeycomb open, showing you the liquid gold, then
longer than with honey-bees, the bumblebees defend their hive, it’s left to drip out slowly or the opened frame is placed in an
not with a stinger, but with strong jaws with which they bite. “extractor” which uses centripetal force to get the honey out of
the honeycomb.
What is nectar?
Nectar, which naturally occurs in flowers, consists of different Step four the honey is sieved and placed into jars, ready for use.
natural sugars and water. The difference in all types of honey are
due to the different balance in these sugars and of course the
different provenances (type of flowers, trees, …).

From Nectar to Honey


So nectar comes from trees and flowers, which is sucked up by
the “worker-bee” which uses the nectar as a source of energy,
but stores the most part in it’s stomach, where it’s mixed with
enzymes which then creates honey.

Upon its return to the hive, the worker-bee spits the nectar into
a “house-bee”, which on it’s turn will place the droplets of honey
into a cavity of the honeycomb. Once the cell or cells are filled,
the bees will keep on moving over the surface of the honeycomb
waving it’s wings.
With the heat in the hive - due to the thousands of bees being
on such a small surface - and the “wind” created by the bees
flapping their wings, the bees reduce the water content to about
17-18%. When this stage is reached the bees will cap the cell with
beeswax, the honey is ready.

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What’s what? Good to know!

Nectar: The natural sugars inc. water being taken from flowers by Propolis (or bee glue) is a resinous mixture that honey bees - 75% of the sugars present in honey are glucose and fructose.
worker bees. produce by mixing saliva and beeswax with exudate gathered
from tree buds, sap flows, or other botanical sources. It is used as - 10% to 15% of the other sugars are disaccharide type of sugars
Honey: the by enzymes changed Nectar, with a reduced water a sealant for unwanted open spaces in the hive. Its color varies which are divided in small quantities.
content, which humans harvest from the hive, and which serves as depending on its botanical source, the most common being dark
the number 1 source of energy for the bee. brown. Propolis is sticky above room temperature (20ºC (68ºF)). - The sugars present in the honey are responsible for the taste,
At lower temperatures, it becomes hard and very brittle.I t is often viscosity, energetic values, hygroscopic values and the texture.
Honeycomb: When the colony gets into a hive they will start is being sold by beekeepers for further use in recipes.
by creating the “honeycomb”, which is made out of beeswax, - The way the glucose and fructose levels are divided is the best
and has it’s typical hexagonal structure. It’s function is to keep Royal jelly is a honey bee secretion that is used in the nutrition of way to identify and classify the MONO-floral honeys. (Honey
the honey capsulated and stored. The second function is as a larvae, as well as adult "queens". It is secreted from the glands of comingprimarily from 1 type of flower - plant - tree).
breeding chamber for the "queen" to enlarge the colony. An nurse bees, and fed to all larvae in the colony.
added advantage is that the bees can cap the cells with wax to When worker bees decide to make a new "queen", because the - In almost all the honeys there is more Fructose than glucose
keep disease and sickness away. old one is either weakening or dead, they choose several small which will give them a sweeter taste except in rapeseed honey and
larvae and feed them with copious amounts of royal jelly in in dandelion honey, where the glucose levels are higher than the
Beeswax: The basic structure for bees - the “honeycomb”- is specially constructed queen cells. This type of feeding triggers the fructose, and due to this, a quicker crystallization will occur.
entirely made out of beeswax, which is produced naturally by development of queen morphology, including the fully developed
young worker bees which have glands at the bottom backside of ovaries needed to lay eggs. Royal Jelly has long been sold for its - Technically we can say honey is a flavorsome inverted sugar
their body. Beeswax has a melting point of 62º/64ºC, and is used nutritional benefits as dietary supplement or even as medicine, syrup, thus making sure we keep water in the products we make
in a wide array of products: food, candles and cosmetics are the though current research does not support these “facts” at all. with it, creating a better color due to the mallard reaction, and is
main ones. also responsible for having a softer result in sponges.
(Eg Madeleines).

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Sustainability
We’ve all been hearing and reading the headlines in the news, on What can YOU do?
the internet… well everywhere, sentences like “one third of the All the above are elements we - as individuals - can’t really do
bees died last year”, “what’s happening with our bee population” much against, though there are things we can do… since the
or even “no more bees” appear everywhere. pesticides and big farmlands destroy a lot of the natural flora,
it’s great to plant some wild flowers in your garden, and plant
Yes there is truth in the fact that bee populations have declined them early in the year. This way you will increase the possibility
in the lasts 10 years though some say the phenomenon has that bumble bees will nest near your garden, and try to have
been going on for 50 years. Why is this important? Well bees wild flowers blooming in your garden all year round, bees are
are important for the pollination of our crops worldwide. The longer actives than you might think.
declining population of bees is incoherently linked to our food
production, and with an ever growing global population of people You could of course start to keep your own bees and harvest
this is THE main cause of concern. Even though honey production the honey: you’ll be doing your garden, the bees and yourself
does fall back too? the main problem here is a rise in the price. a huge pleasure.

Some numbers:
- 75% of the 100 most important crops in the world depend on
insect pollination, insect I say so not all are bees, though 80% of
insect pollination is done by bees.
- The dependence of insect pollination on crops has risen 300%
in the last 50 years.
- In Japan, the fall-back of bee populations has been 25%, in the
USA 30 to 40% and in Europe the fall-back rises to 50%!

Reasons for the fall-back


The great (r)evolutions in the agricultural field, with bigger
and bigger machines, pesticides and commercial pollination
techniques have had a huge negative impact on the bee
population, the problem of bigger fields with only 1 type of crops
doesn’t help the bees to create a diverse diet, which - like humans
- they need to be able to fight natural or chemical disease.

Another problem is the breeding of bees, not aggressive, follow


with ease and don’t leave the hive as often or don’t fly as far to
collect nectar and pollinate as their “non-human-breed” cousins.

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Types of honey
Here we do a quick deep dive into the different types of honey, though there are a vast amount of different ones.

Local honey Whipped honey Filtered honey Natural vs supermarket honey


Well depending on who reads this, local honey will have it’s Some varieties of honey will have more fructose, others more Is honey which has been heated, to then be(e) sieved to remove I don’t want to say that supermarkets don’t sell real
own meaning, but what we mean to say with this term is a glucose, others slightly more water and depending on the the most of the air bubbles, pollen or other particles. honey though it is a fact that cheaper types of honey
honey made from a variety of wild flowers and garden flowers plants used by the bees to produce the honey, due to this “lack” are actually honey mixed with glucose syrup, this is
indigenous to it’s own area. Some may have the luck of having in equilibrium some honeys will decant and go grainy quite fast. Dried Honey not only done for price reasons, but also to counter the
buckwheat honey, or lavender honey as a local honey, and each Therefore they can be beaten or whipped to obtain a lighter Is honey with all (or most) of the water removed and thus comes crystallization of the natural sugars.
honey will be different in color, taste and origin. It will also vary color and remain spreadable on room temperature. in powdered form.
from year to year depending on the available food for the bees. So these can be diluted versions and have no place
Crystalized honey Raw honey in the real honey world since they don’t have the
Honeydew All honey fresh from the hive is liquid, depending on the Is honey which hasen’t been treated in any way, and thus comes great taste and different properties compared to "the
Honeydew is a sugar-rich sticky liquid, secreted by some insects as temperature it might be more or less runny but liquid straight from the hive. real deal."
they feed on plant sap. Honeydew is collected by certain species nonetheless. Due to shifts in temperature, bad storage, humidity,
of birds, wasps, sting-less bees and honey bees: these last 2 etc. the honey will start to crystallize sooner or later to obtain a Pasteurized honey The glucose naturally present in the honey will make
process it into a dark, strong and even sour honey. liquid honey again heat it up to 40ºC to melt down the crystals Has been treated to 71,7ºC or higher before being put in to jars. the honey crystallize faster, though the glucose syrups
and cool evenly. added will slow this process down due to the different
chains of sugars present in the syrup and the addition
of a few percentages of water.

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What honey to use, why the price-difference
and what to watch out for
What honey to use? Why is there an important price difference between What to watch out for?
different types of honey?
After conducting several tests, it comes as an evidence: if we are Well as with everything, some labels don’t have a lot of meaning
working with a sweeter preparation and would like to use honey, General honey prices have nearly doubled over the last 10 years, though to get organic certification beekeepers have to meet
use a more aromatic mono-flower honey which tend to be a bit this is mostly due to the fact that sustainability is more important certain qualitative standards such as: source of the nectar, honey
darker, such as chestnut honey, mountain honey. than ever. bees foraging area, bees management, honey extracting process,
transportation, processing temperature, packaging materials, etc.
In most cases these honeys taste less sweet (lower fructose) The demand on the other hand didn’t go down either, specially since
and therefore tend to crystallize faster (due to the elevated it’s considered as a healthy and flavorsome replacement for sugar. In a way, it’s safe to say that “organic” honey is a qualitative label
glucose levels). for which you pay the price.
But in honey itself the price is mostly to be divided by:
If we need to keep the typical sweetness and flavor of honey, we - Mono-floral On the other hand the "raw" honey doesn’t really have a legal
would recommend a good quality multi-flower honey or an acacia - Multi-floral requirement. We could say all honey is "raw" honey since the
honey, which most people immediately associate as THE "typical" bees do all the work, but "raw" fans will tell you that something
honey taste. Then, how rare is the source: can only carry the label if the honey has never reached more
- Due to the season than 40º - 49ºC (which in all honesty can’t be checked since
- Due to the flower temperatures inside the beehive can get pretty hot, a specially in
- Due to the age of the honeycombs the summertime).
- Due to the hype an “health benefits” which are given to some
honeys (but mostly without proof) When a honey is stated as "raw", it mostly means that it’s
not pasteurized nor heated to 72ºC. Today there are no legal
requirements for "raw" honey so you might be(e) cheated in the
end anyways.

The last point to watch out for is the use of the term "local" honey.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m an avid supporter of local food in any
way possible. Though if the glass jar with expensive label and all
says “local” ask yourself local from where?

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1. Honey Bon bon
For this bonbon, we chose to work with InayaTM 65% dark chocolate couverture. Part of the Cacao Barry "Pureté" range we focus here
both on the flavor intensity and its sustainable impact. These are common points to be also found back in the honey where we use single

Honey
flower (acacia) honey, and honey from open fileds, both without additives and from honnest farners, so we can enjoy the same quality
and taste in the years to come.
Honey passion jelly Method:
10,3% 100 g Water Mix the milk powder with the cold cream and mix untill
20,5% 200 g Passion fruit puree dissolved. Add the dextrose and honey, then heat to 40ºC

Bon bon
32,9% 320 g Acacia honey Meanwhile melt the InayaTM dark chocolate to 33-34°. Mix both
34,2% 333 g Sugar elements and emulsify. Add the liquid butter and incorporate
1,6% 16 g Yellow pectine well. Fill the molds at 31-32ºC.
0,5% 5 g Acid 50%
Note:
100% 974 g Total I chose a darker aromatic honey for the ganache since the flavor
needs to be dominant enough to match the beautiful cocoa
Method: notes of the Inaya ™ 65% dark chocolate couverture.
Put the water, passion fruit puree and acacia honey in a pan,
mix the sugar and the pectine and add to the pan. Bring Crispy layer
everything to boil on a medium heat then boil to 104ºC. Poor on 28,9% 370 g Pure hazelnut paste
a bowl and cover with cling-film, place in the fridge till cold (set) 21,1% 270 g Praline Amande Valencia
then place in a blender to cutter to a smooth texture. 15,6% 200 g Toasted buckwheat
26,6% 340 g Zéphyr™ Caramel 35% white
Note: chocolate with caramel taste
Here I use a classic acacia honey (single flower) since this was 7,8% 100 g Cocoa butter
the best pairing with the freshness of passion fruit.
100% 1280 g Total
Honey Inaya™ ganache
36,97% 383 g Cream 35% Method:
4,62% 48 g Sugar dextrose Melt the ZéphyrTM caramel chocolate, the cocoa butter, add to
2,90% 30 g Milk powder 1% the praliné and the nut paste, add the toasted buckwheat and
37,66% 390 g Cacao Barry InayaTM 65% dark temper to 24ºC. Roll out between two layers of parchment
chocolate couverture paper to the thickness of the buckwheat (2 mm).
6,76% 70 g Butter anhydrous 17
11,09% 115 g Honey from open fields (dark)

100% 1035 g Total

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2. Petit gateau honey
Since we use a variety of different ingredients and textures in pastry, and eat pastries at different temperatures, I chose to play with
the flavour pairing combinations with honey, more than going honey all the way. Int the end, we all want to taste the honey but agree

Petit gateau
that we like some freshness and some great chocolate flavors to bring everything together. I therefore took my inspiration from François
Chartier flavour pariing science to create this "Petit Gateau".

Chocolate roulade sponge Whipped Equateur ganache


25,3% 166 g Egg whites 27,6% 400 g Milk

honey
19,1% 125 g Sugar 13,8% 200 g Multifloral honey
20,3% 133 g Egg yolks 24,1% 350 g Cacao Barry Equateur 76%
2,7% 18 g Cacao Barry Cocoa powder dark chocolate couverture
"Plein arôme" 34,5% 500 g Cream 35%
5,5% 36 g Flour
3,4% 22 g Corn starch 100% 1450 g Total
11,9% 78 g Cacao Barry Alto el Sol 65%
dark chocolate couverture Method:
11,9% 78 g Cream 35% Heat the milk to 70ºC and poor on to the chocolate and the
honey. Emulsify with a stick blender and add the liquid cream.
100% 656 g Total Leave to crystallize one night in the fridge before whipping it to
the right consistency.
Method:
Whip the egg whites and sugar to obtain a firm foam with Note:
small air bubbles: add in the liquid yolks and fold these in with a Here we use inverted sugar in the honey to give our whipped
rubber spatula. ganache a nice and soft texture without loozing the amazing
Now add in the sieved dry ingredients, and finish with the flavor of the Equateur chocolate.
ganache made up of the Alto el sol and the cream. Bake for 12
minutes at 165ºC. ZéphyrTM Caramel - Buckwheat glaze
When taken out of the oven, cover staight away with cling-film 80,0% 1000 g ZéphyrTM Caramel 35% white chocolate
to keep the sponge nice and moist. with caramel taste
4,0% 50 g Neutral oil
Apricot and mandarin compote 16,0% 200 g Toasted buckwheat
49,9% 467 g Frozen apricot halves
19,7% 187 g Orange puree 100% 1250 g Total
17,3% 164 g Water
10,5% 100 g Sugar Method:
1,2% 11 g Pectine NH Melt everything together and temper to 28ºC. Before dipping
2,1% 20 g White wine vinegar the roulade pieces in to the upper edge, scrape the bottom well
on a griddle and set aside in the fridge.
100% 949 g Total

Method:
Add the defrosted puree and apricot halves to the water
along with the sugar and pectine NH mixture. Poor into a pan
an bring to the boil. Mix with an immersion blender to obtain a
smoother texture. Poor into a bowl and add the vinegar. Leave
to cool down.
When cold, spread 850 g on the sponge (40X60) and roll tightly
to a firm roulade: if needed, tighten in cling-film and keep in
the freezer. When frozen, make 3 cm makes and cut into slices.
Place - with the cut side down - on a baking paper. Place 2 tooth
picks in the top and dip into the Caramel ZéphyrTM glaze. Scrape
the bottom on a grill to obtain a flat side.

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3. Honey comb
Honey comb is one of those oldschool classics often named as "toffee" and here we play on the versatillity of this recipe. I use it a lot
as a snacking option though it's just as easy to use them in a tablet and use the leftover small pieces for a plated desert. For me this is

Honey
literally "the golden oldy".

Honeycomb
37,9% 200 g Multi-floral honey
9,5% 50 g Glucose DE40

comb
37,9% 200 g Sugar
3,8% 20 g Isomalt
9,5% 50 g Water
1,5% 8 g Sodiumbicarbonate

100% 528 g Total

Method:
Place the water in a heavy bottom pan with high edges, then
add the sugars. Boil on a medium heat to obtain a light caramel
while gently steering. Add the bicarbonate all at once and whisk
it in to the "caramel": this will now blow up and become bubbly.
Poor on to a silicone mat and leave to cool. When cold, break in
to the desired size pieces and store airtight.

Options to process

Snacking
Just enrobe the small pieces with your favourite dark chocolate
couverture (since the honeycomb is sweet, we use dark chocolate)
leave to crystallize and store at room temperature.

Plated dessert
When cold, cutter the honeycomb to a fine powder, sieve an
even layer through a stencil placed on a silpat, bake 1-2 minutes
in a hot oven 180ºC. Leave to cool down and you now have shiny
caramel shards to use for plated desserts. Do watch out since
the powder will take on humidity quite fast, so store in a vacuum
bag or airtight.

Tablet
Add about 10% in weight of the small honeycomb pieces to
your favourite, tempered Cacao Barry chocolate, mould in to the
desired shape. Leave to crystallize before demoulding.

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4. Honey plated dessert
Chocolate sponge cake Method:
25,9% 190 g Milk 3% Mix the dextrose and the stabiliser , this is to avoid lumps in the

Honey
15,0% 110 g Oil ice cream mix, make an anglaise with all the ingredients and
14,3% 105 g Egg white leave to rest 12 hours, or overnight in the fridge at 4°c, churn the
2,7% 20 g Egg yolk ice cream for 3/4 of the way and place in the shock freezer for
26,5% 195 g Sugar 30 minutes. Store at -15°c for the best result.
14,3% 105 g Flour

plated dessert
1,4% 10 g Cacao Barry powder "Plein arôme" Cacao mass - honey crémeux
27,4% 300 g Cream 35%
100% 735 g Total 18,3 % 200 g Whole milk
27,4 % 300 g Acacia honey
Method: 11,4 % 125 g Egg yolks
Put all the ingredients into a mixer (blender) and mix for 5 minutes 15,5 % 170 g Grand caraque cacao mass
until you have a homogeneous mass, pour into an espuma bottle
and insert two gas capsules. Put into the fridge for a few hours. Pipe 100% 1095 g Total
1/5 into a plastic cup and "bake" in the microwave for 20 seconds.
Method:
Speculoos Create a "crème anglaise" with the cream, milk, honey and yolks.
20,2% 200 g Butter 86% Poor on to the cacaomass and emulsify. Store in the fridge for
20,2% 200 g Dark cassonade use the next day.
8,1% 80 g Sugar
2,0% 20 g Chestnut-honey Note:
5,0% 50 g Whole egg In this crémeux recipe we use cacao mass since it doesn't
40,3% 400 g Flour contain any sugar. We can then add more honey to increase its
0,4% 4 g Salt flavor intensity as a primary reason, and also for the inverted
0,5% 5 g Orange zests sugars present in the honey which will give this crémeux a silky
0,6% 6 g Baking powder smooth texture.
2,0% 20 g Ground cinnamon
0,2% 2 g Ground cardamon Honey and lemon Gel
0,1% 1 g Ground coriander 47,4% 360 g Lemon puree
0,1% 1 g Ground ginger 2,6% 20 g Milk powder 1%
0,1% 1 g Ground nutmegg 18,4% 140 g Water
0,1% 1 g Licoricepowder 26,4% 200 g Multi-floral honey
0,1% 1 g Ground fennel 4,0% 30 g Sugar
0,8% 6 g Agar Agar
100% 922 g Total 0,4% 3 g Gellan gum

Method: 100% 759 g Total


Cream the butter and sugars (incl. honey) add the eggs followed
by the rest of the dry ingredients and the zests. Make into a Method:
dough and roll out on 3 mm thickness. Cut into stripes of Dissolve the milk powder in the water, add the puree and the
15mm by 100mm, sprinkle with fleur de sel and bake 170ºC honey. Mix the sugar, the agar agar and gellan gum together in
for 8 minutes. a saucepan. Bring to boil and poor in to a bowl, leave to set for
a few hours until solid. When cold, place in to a blender at full
Milk and honey ice cream speed or until there are no more pieces. We then obtain a smoo-
37,7% 500 g Cream 35% th gel, pass though a fine sieve if needed. Store in a pipping bag
30,2% 400 g Milk 3% or bottle.
9,1% 120 g Egg yolk
15,1% 200 g Acacia honey
7,5% 100 g Dextrose
0,4% 5 g Ice cream stabilisher

100% 1325 g Total

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Chef Cacao Barry® 21
Mathieu Dierinck
Mathieu was born and raised in belgium, but chose - after his
studies - to look up the limits of his passion abroad working in
the UK and Belgium for renowned chefs such as Michel Roux and
Gordon Ramsay. After this side step into these high end Michelin
starred kitchens, he was responsable during 3 years for the
creation at Oberweis before joining Barry Callebaut in 2015 at the
Belgian Chocolate Academy. Since 2017 responsible for Cacao
Barry in Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxemburg, supporting
customers in any way possible.

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Chef Cacao Barry® 23
Sources:

The bee book, ISBN: 9789461431592, published by Dorling Kindersley


Limited, London

Honey: A global History, ISBN: 9781780237336, written by Lucy M. Long


Ph. D, Reaktion books 2017

Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honey

http://www.honingblog.be , blog about beekeeping and, producing at the


end the production of honey. DUTCH

Determination of sugars in honey by liquid chromatography, by Kamal


and Klein 2011.

Honey

by
Mathieu Dierinck

Cacao Barry®

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