er wo r k i ng

a th
Le
of
Instructions and techniques
for successful leatherworking

Introduction
Leather, one of mankind’s oldest natural resources, is a foremost gift to man from Mother Nature. Without it man might not
have survived.

The history of leather is closely merged with the progress of mankind. Long before man devised a written alphabet, he communicated
through simple drawings or sign language. Many of these “messages” were done on skins of animals which he killed for food. With the
skins of animals he was able to clothe and shelter himself. Modern archaeology has uncovered leather articles and artifacts from
cultures dating back over 33 centuries and found them to be in an excellent state of preservation.

The ancient Romans used leather as currency, and the style and quality of a Romans sandals conveyed his status in society.

When man realized the importance of recording his thoughts and knowledge in books which he could carry and store more conveniently
than stone tablets, he began to express himself on parchment leather pages.

During the Middle Ages, however, only the wealthy could afford boots, capes, saddles, etc. made of leather. Leather workmanship was
limited to a very narrow section of society. A secretive lot, Leather Guildsmen closely guarded knowledge of their art which they handed
down from father to son.

When Cortez conquered Mexico in the early 16th century, leather artistry came boldly into the New World. The Conquistadores brought
horses and with them came the need for saddles and other horse gear. Spain had long been a leader in leather artistry and the skilled
craftsmen who came over to the New Land coupled their vast knowledge with the inspiration they leaned from the beautiful floral
patterns to be found all about them. Thus came the transition from basic geometric designs dating back to medieval times to the floral
patterns of modern artistry.

Today anyone can enjoy leatherwork, the art of creating beautiful and useful articles of leather. Just as early man learned his “ABC’s”
on leather, this section is designed to teach you some of the basics of working with leather.

To decorate leather by carving, you need a small group of specially designed tools: swivel knife, camouflage, beveler, pear shader,
veiner, seeder, backgrounder and mallet. These tools enable you to create basic leather articles. As your skill and enthusiasm grow you
will want to add more tools to your collection. Of course you also need leather.

Leather is unique, different from any “cloth” put together by man, for it is the actual skin of an animal that grew as the animal grew.
The skins of bovine animals (cows, oxen, etc.) provide most of the leather for carving. These skins must be vegetable tanned so that
they will readily absorb moisture, allowing you to mold and form the leather easily.

Leather is usually sold by the square foot and is measured by special machines at the tanneries. The number of square feet is usually
marked on the underside of the hide with a marker, chalk or machine stamp. Known as a skin, the complete hide of the animal may be
left whole or cut into sections: sides, bellies, backs and shoulders.

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The thickness (or weight) of leather is usually measured
in terms of ounces. One ounce equals approximately
1/64" in thickness. Thus, 7-8 oz. means the leather is 7 Subdivisions of a Hide
to 8 oz. in weight or 7/64" to 8/64", making it approxi- The definitions of the various
parts of a hide are shown below.
mately 1/8" thick. Lighter weight leather such as calf or
kip (large calf) range from 1.5 oz. to 3-4 oz. Heavier
leathers, 4-5 oz. to 10-11 oz. and more are from the
hides of mature cattle.
A B
To make leather a uniform thickness, the hides are run Side
through a splitting machine. Since animal hides are not A + C + E or B + D + F
of uniform thickness and since they are wet when put Single Shoulder
through the splitting machine, the thickness of the A or B
leather will not remain the same throughout the hide.
There will always be slight variations and that’s why Double Shoulder
A+B
C D
leather weights seldom measure out in exact 64th’s of an
inch. This is why leathers are usually shown as 4-5 oz., Back
6-7 oz., etc. A + C or B + D

Belly
Now that you have been introduced to the history of
leatherwork, you are ready to begin to learn to create E or F
E F
luxurious leather articles. Start with a billfold or key
case. Soon you’ll be making handbags, bowling bags,
sporting goods, etc. Or, you may wish to begin your leatherwork hobby by making a pair of moccasins or sandals, or decorating your home
with wall hangings and other accessories.

For centuries, leather has fulfilled a great need in man’s life. So, full speed ahead. You’ll be entering a fulfilling, creative hobby you’ll
enjoy all the years of your life.

How to Moisten The Leather

Vegetable tanned tooling leather must be moistened with water before you can work
with it. This procedure is called casing. As you wet the leather, the fibers swell and
soften, thus enabling you to stamp and shape it. Leather is moistened by rubbing a
damp sponge on it. Be sure your hands are clean. Rub the damp sponge on the flesh
side and then on the grain side. Apply the water as evenly as possible. When the
leather begins to return to its natural color, begin stamping. If your leather dries
before you complete the tooling design, it will be necessary to remoisten. Be sure
you case the entire piece to avoid water spots.
water
Caution: Always use glass or plastic containers for the water. Metal
containers may cause the leather to stain.

Do not grip tightly.

How to Use Craftool ® Stamps
Enhance the beauty of your leather projects with Craftool stamps. These may be used
to create original designs or for embellishing the beauty of your carved design. Use a
wood or rawhide mallet head to strike the top of the stamp to obtain its impression
in the leather.

Caution: Never strike Craftool® stamps with a metal faced hammer,

as this will damage tools. 2. Wrist and arm
action creates
most striking force.
Hold both the mallet and decorative stamping tool upright in a secure, but
Use this motion
relaxed manner. Hold the mallet in the center of the handle with your fingers rather for deep tool
than the palm of your hand. impressions.
1. Pivot action aids in
minimizing wrist and arm
movement. Use this motion
for light tool impressions.

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 Fig. 2
Using Craftool ® Alphabet and 3-D Stamps
Alphabet stamps are a quick way of personalizing your leathercraft projects. 3-D stamps
come in a wide variety of designs like animals, pictorials, symbols, etc.

Using Alphabet & 3-D Stamps, Fig. 1 Proper positioning of stamp.

For best results: D A N
1. Make sure leather is moistened (see page 25). Correct Incorrect
2. Place leather on top of a firm surface like
marble. This will help you create deep impres- Fig. 3

A
sions.
3. Properly position stamp(s) on leather (Fig. 1).
4. Place handle in stamp (Fig. 2). A
5. Make sure you hold the handle down firmly
Result Result
while striking with mallet (Fig. 3). This will pre-
vent the stamp from “bouncing”. Bouncing
creates undesirable multiple impressions on
the leather.
A
N

Step 1 3/32"
4-Prong Punch
Step 2

How to Punch Lacing Holes

3/32"
First Prong Enters
Last Slit Punched

After punching corner slits, Remove tool and place first Punch lacing holes after all project parts are cemented together around the edges.
begin punching with multi- prong in last slit, punch For lacing around edges, use a Wing Divider (#3607-00) to mark a line around edges
prong punch. Space first slit again. to ensure holes follow in a straight line.
(from corner) same width as 1. Use a single prong Craftool® Thonging Chisel (#8040 or #8044) to punch around
the punch blade (3/32"). corners and in places where there is not room for multi-prong chisels.
2. Multi-prong Thonging Chisels (#8042 or #8046) come with various numbers of
Step 3 Step 4
prongs. A chisel of 4 or more prongs makes punching faster. After you punch once,
set the end prong back in the last hole you punched and hit punch with mallet. This
gives you three new holes and by placing one prong in the last hole, all holes come
Corner Slit
out perfectly spaced.
Stay On Guideline Use Single Prong Punch To
Adjust Slit Spacing
Note: Place Poundo Board (#3461-01) on top of Marble Slab (#32228-00) and then
Continue punching to If slits do not come out place your leather to be punched on top of poundo board. The marble provides a
corner. properly spaced at corner, firm base and the poundo board will help protect your chisel from becoming dull or
use single prong punch to chipped. Strike the chisel hard enough to go through the leather, but not hard
punch remaining slits. enough to go all the way through the poundo board.

How to Lace
Lacing puts the finishing touch to handmade leather articles. How good the finished project looks depends very much on the lacing. Thus,
how you lace will have a great deal of importance in the appearance of the finished project. With the following instructions and illustra-
tions, plus a little practice, you will soon be doing a neat, smooth job of lacing.
Note: Always lace with stamped or finished side of the project facing you.

Threading a Step 1 Attaching Lace to Two-Prong Needle

Step 3

2-Prong Lacing Needle Skive off end of lace Smooth side

of lace
Note: You should load two yards of lacing in with knife.
lacing needle at a time. Working with longer Spring open needle. Insert skived end into needle, smooth
Step 2
pieces of lacing will be difficult and can side up (as shown). Close needle on lace with needle nose
cause the lacing to wear and become frayed pliers or tap lightly with mallet so that prongs pierce lace
as it is pulled through the lacing holes. Point skived end. and lock in place. To remove lace, spring open needle.

26 Offers Good at All Stores Listed on pg. 16 26 ©2009 by Tandy Leather Factory. All rights reserved.
 How to Lace & Splice the Double Loop Stitch
Recommendations: Use 3/32" or 1/8" lace with the same sized slits or holes. Double-Loop Lacing uses 7-8 times more lace than the
length of the project (ex: 2’ will need 14’ to 16’ of lace).

Step 1 Step 2 Bight (Cross) Step 3 Step 4

Hold end of lace down
with finger. Continue
holding
down end.

Begin on front side, push needle through Push needle under

first slit or hole. Leave 3/4" lace end Pull stitch tight; lace over the end you cross (or bight). Hold end Pull stitch under bight snug, but not
and continue on to next slit or hole. left free. This forms a cross or “bight”. of lace down on opposite side. too tight. Lace through next slit.
Step 5 Step 6 End of lace can be Step 7 Lace through 3 corner Step 8
released. holes twice.

Follow the same

procedures as in Step 1 & 2 Lace through the When lacing a Be sure to go
making a cross (bight). Stitch next hole. The end corner, stitch through 3 through bight (cross)
under the bight and pull stitch snug. of the lace is now locked in place. corner slits or holes twice each. on all corner stitches.
Step 9 Step 10 Needle Step 11 Tuck end Step 12
Point end between
New leathers
Approximately 8" Splicing: lace
Insert
new needle Spread
& lace down leathers apart
Lace until only 8" between leathers, Tuck end of lace Pull old lace tight.
of lace remains. You will 4 slits from lacing; pull out back; between leathers and continue Cut off end at an angle,
now have to splice the lace. leave 3/4" of end between leathers. your project with the old lace. allowing about 1/2" to remain.
Step 13 Tuck end between leathers Step 14 Step 15 Step 16
Loop

When you have

Tuck end of laced to starting
old lace between point, use modeling
leathers. Lace over with new lace so it’s stylus to pull end of the From back side, From front side,
caught and won’t show. Continue lacing. beginning lace free of stitches. pull the end of lace out of slit. pull end of lace out of the loop.
Step 17 Step 18 Step 19 Cut off end Step 20
Maintain Loop Tuck end
Loop Loop between leathers

Pull end of lace out of Cut off end of

Push stylus tip of slit and up between leathers. lace you have Pull stitch tight and lace up
modeling tool down between leathers Two empty slits should appear pulled out and tuck end between leath- through loop from back side. All
and hook it over end of the lace. on the front side; one on the back. ers. Lace through the next slit. slits on the back side should be filled.
Step 21 Step 22 Step 23 Step 24

Loop

Lace under Carefully Pull needle Pull any slack out of the first loop and
the bight. cross over as shown through. Push laced edges together to adjust lacing with fingers to make all
Do not pull this stitch tight. and push the needle down through loop. adjust starting loops for easier completion. stitches appear equal.
Step 25 Step 26 Step 27
Sharp Knife
Carefully
Pull end of lacing Push needle through the last slit cut off end of
down tight. Make as shown. Bring it up between lacing. Tap lacing flat with
sure all stitches appear even and equally spaced. the leathers and out between lacing. mallet or roll flat with a wooden dowel.

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Sewing a Running Stitch
The amount of lace needed for the running
stitch is 1-1/2 times the distance to be
laced.
Step 1 Lacing Needle
Grain
lace with a sharp knife
Flesh
Step 2
Begin lacing, starting
between the two layers of
leather. Leave about 1/4"
at the end where you slit.
Step 3
Push the needle through the
next hole from the back,
through the slit and out
through the opposite hole
in front.
Step 4
Pull the stitch up tight
to lock the lace. Continue
lacing remainder of project.
Step 5
Pull the beginning stitch tight
and continue lacing, pulling the
stitches tight as you go.
Beginning Stitch
Step 6
Loose Loop
Lace to the
second to last hole
and leave a loose hole.
Step 7
Push needle through last
holes. Spread leathers; push
needle through next-to-last
hole on back, bring needle up
between leathers.
Step 8
Pull loose loop tight
and continue pulling
all slack out of the lace.
Step 9
Pull all stitching tight;
pull end of lace tight.
Trim off end of lace close
to leather, tap all lacing
flat with smooth mallet.
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How to Lace the Whipstitch - #1
The following instructions for the Whipstitch are for use on a project with separate beginning
and ending points. The amount of lacing required for the whipstitch is 3 to 3-1/2 times the
Thread the needle distance to be laced.
and then pierce the
opposite end of the Step 1 Step 2
leaving a 1/8" slit.
Begin lacing, starting Lace through hole as
in between the layers shown. Keep the lace from
of leather. Leave about twisting. Pull the stitch up
1/2" at the end. tight to lock the lace.
Step 3 Step 4
Push needle through the Push needle through last
second hole. Pull stitch hole as shown. Bring it up
up tight. Continue lacing, between the leathers and
out between lacing.
tightening the lace as
you go. Carefully cut off the end of
lacing.
How to Lace the Whipstitch - #2
The following instructions for the Whipstitch are for use on projects with common begin-
ning and ending points such as billfolds. The amount of lacing required for the
Whipstitch is about 3 to 3-1/2 times the distance to be laced.
Step 1 Step 2
Lacing Needle
Thread the needle and Begin lacing, starting
then pierce the opposite between the two layers of
Grain
end of the lace with a leather. Leave about 1/4"
sharp knife leaving a at the end where you slit.
Flesh
1/8" slit.
Step 3 Step 4
Beginning Stitch
Beginning Stitch
Push needle through second Continue lacing, tightening
hole, then thread it through the lace as you go.
slit in end of lace and
through opposite hole.
Step 5 Lace around project leav- Step 6
Beginning Loose Loop ing a loose loop in second Lace through the last hole in
Stitch front, then through last hole
hole from the beginning
stitch. There will be one on back again, then through
the first loose loop as
un-laced hole between
Beginning Stitch first and last stitch. shown.
Step 7 Step 8 Pull end of lace tight to
Pull the first loop tight, over end of lace as shown. take slack out of last loop.
Cut off end of lace with
sharp knife and tap all lac-
ing flat with a smooth-
faced mallet.
Tandy Leather Factory store managers are
experts in leathercraft. They are happy to
answer any questions you may have, as well
as demonstrate any leathercraft technique.
Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
Hand Stitching

Push end of thread through
needle eye about 1/2".
Pierce thread with needle point
as shown.
Push thread up on needle. Pull end of
thread through eye as far as it will
go. Hold needle and pull thread over
eye to lock end of thread.
How to Thread the Needle
Note: Attach a needle to each end of
thread, following these instructions.

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Push one needle through first
hole and pull to center of thread.
Push needle from front side
through second hole.
Push needle from back side
through same hole. Use care not
to puncture thread with second
needle. Pull stitch tight. Push nee-
dle from front side through third
hole.
Push needle from back side
through same hole and pull stitch
tight. To finish off, back stitch
through last two holes and cut
threads off flush with leathers.
How to Hand Stitch Using
2 Needles
The amount of thread required for Hand
Stitch is about 3 times the distance to
be stitched.

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Push needle through first hole in
top piece only, leaving about a 2"
tail of thread between the pieces of
leather. Stitch through second hole
in both pieces of leather and then
through third hole. Continue stitch-
ing in this manner to last hole, pull-
ing each stitch tight.
When you reach the last hole, turn
and begin stitching back to starting
point, filling in alternate stitches.
Stitch to beginning hole.
When you reach the beginning hole,
go through hole in bottom piece
only, bring needle up between the
two pieces of leather. Tie end of
thread to the 2" tail remaining at
How to Hand Stitch Using
the beginning with a double knot.
Pull tight between the pieces of 1 Needle
leather and trim off excess thread. The amount of thread required for Hand
Tap stitches flat with a mallet. Stitching is about 3 times the distance
to be stitched.

How to Apply Leather Finish

Leather finishes are applied to protect the leather and preserve the qualities and appear-
ance. Before applying leather finish, there are several points which you should know.
• All tooling of the design must be completed before finish is applied.
• Be sure the surface area is dry and clean of any dirt, dust or other matter.
• Leather finishes must be applied prior to assembly.
1. Press a sponge dampened slightly with water to the top of a bottle of leather finish
and tip the bottle so a little finish flows onto the sponge.
2. Apply a light coat of finish to the carved side of the leather, moving the sponge in a
circular motion over the leather. Work the finish into the cuts and impressions.
3. Let the finish dry thoroughly, then apply a second coat if you desire a shinier finish.
Allow the piece to dry thoroughly.
4. If a high gloss is desired, buff the leather with a piece of sheepskin or a clean, soft,
lint-free cloth. The project is now ready to be assembled, either by stitching with
waxed thread or by lacing with leather or plastic lace.

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 How to Set Line 20 & Line 24 Snaps
Use these snaps for holsters, straps, vests, etc. where a firm fastener is required.
Line 20 is for 5 to 7 oz. leather. Line 24 is for 8 to 10 oz. leather.

Craftool® Line 20 & Line 24 Setters

No. 8058 Sets Stud Socket

Stud Socket Line 24 Snaps

Grain Side Flesh Side

Eyelet
No. 8057 Sets
Eyelet Cap Line 20 Snaps
Cap

Anvil
#8056 Anvil Marble
Surface
Set Snaps in Strap as Shown.
Punch proper size holes for eyelet and cap.
Insert parts, set tool in position and strike firmly with mallet.

How to Set Glove & Line 16 Snaps

#8103 Snap
#8103-10 Setter
Snap SetterSet
Set
Three Setters & an Anvil for Setting Glove & Line 16 Snaps

Glove Snap Parts:

use smaller concave
Socket & Cap SETTER use These 2 Setters circle for setting
For Glove Snaps SOCkET STud
Glove CAP
CAP EYELET
use larger concave
Stud & Eyelet SETTER use These 2 Setters circle for setting
For Line 16 Snaps line 16 CAP Line 16 Snap Parts:
ANVIL
SOCkET STud
use Flat back Side of
Socket & Cap SETTER CAP EYELET
ANVIL to set All EYELETS

SETTING CAPS & SOCkETS SETTING STudS & EYELETS

use same setter for
Glove & Line 16 Studs & Eyelets
Glove Snap Line 16 Snap
Setter Setter
Setting Setting
Glove Snap Line 16 Snap

SOCkETS
5/32" HOLE 3/16" HOLE STudS
LEATHER 3/32" HOLE 1/8" HOLE
LEATHER

use Flat back Side of

CAPS in CONCAVE CIRCLES on ANVIL ANVIL to set All EYELETS
(On Hard Surface) EYELETS on ANVIL

Position snap parts as shown. Insert setter and strike firmly with mallet.

See our full line of snaps and

Use a wood or rawhide Never use a hammer. other fasteners on pages 114-117
mallet on the setting tools.
of our 2009 Leathercraft Catalog.

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 How to Set Rivets
For permanently fastening
leather & other materials.
Craftool Rivet
®

Rapid Rivets Setter #8100

Cap Rapid Rivets are available in several sizes and lengths. Select the proper size and length for your specific
project. To properly adjoin, rivet post should extend about 1/8" above combined thickness of materials.

Post

Cap Finished side Punch proper size holes for the rivets. Push post through from back side
Craftool Rivet
®

Setter #8100 of material. of project. Place on marble surface, the cap on post, with concave face
of setter on cap. Strike setter sharply with mallet. For double cap rivets,
set the same as regular rivets except you must use an #8056 Anvil under
the cap of the post.

Double #8056 Anvil

Cap Rivet
Post
Marble Surface

Braiding the Three-Strand Mystery Braid

Step 1 Step 3

Make two cuts in leather strip, dividing it into 3 equal parts joined at both With resulting braid kept at the bottom, go to the top end and pass strands
ends. Edge and burnish each strip if you wish. 1 over 2, 3 over 1 and 2 over 3. Now pass the lower end of strip between
strands 2 and 3.

Step 2 Step 4

Again pass strands 1 over 2, 3 over 1 and 2 over 3. Braiding cycle is now
complete, appearing as in Fig. 4. To continue braiding, follow Steps 2, 3 and
4 until strands are not long enough to complete another full cycle (Steps 2,
Pass the lower end of strip through the slit between strands 2 and 3. 3, and 4). Equalize and smooth braid.

To see our full line of products, visit us at

tandyleatherfactory.com or request a
2009 catalog from your nearest store.
CA
M
CRA P
Expect the best from Tandy Leather Factory with:
•Outstanding Customer Service Leatherwise Personnel • FT
• Best Prices
• End of Season Returns Allowed
• Best Selection
• Free Camp Staff Training
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 CLOSE-OUT SPECIAL
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Flashlight Kit
No more stumbling around in the dark, ever again,
with our flashlight kit. Perfect for use in the cabin or
tent, walking to a ceremonial campfire or snipe-
hunting. Decorate the included 2" leather rounder,
secure to wrist cord and you’re ready to go. A useful
camp project that can be used for years to come.
Approximately 5-1/2" long and uses two AA batteries
(included). Available in yellow. Prices are subject to change without notice. We are not responsible for
pictorial or typographical errors. Printed in the U.S.A.
47027-00 Source Code 901CF • Offers Expire 8/31/09 • Prices are in US Dollars
Ret. $5.99 only 49 ¢

2009 Camp
kit

& leathercraft supply guide Flyer Code 901CF

Youth Group Leathercraft Set

Discover the fun of leathercrafting with the basics of stamping and painting. Teach kids pride in accomplishment by letting them craft their own leath-
er items. Contains 50 projects. Kit includes eight wooden mallets, twelve stamping tools, 1/2" alphabet set, one extra handle for alphabet set, six Cova
Color® paints, ten brushes, two sponges, one 25-pack wristbands and one 25-pack of bookmarks.
55511-01
Ret. $229.99 your price 150 00
set

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