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Browning & Silva

(Canada: $18.99)
“[Browning and Silva] brought their childhood memories and love
of the crop to An Apple Harvest, which is both eloquent and authoritative.”
FRANK BRowNINg reports from Paris on The world’s most storied fruit is also among its
cultural issues for National Public Radio and —Florence Fabricant for the New York Times most versatile cooking ingredients. In these pages,
writes for numerous magazines on science, his- writer and NPR contributor Frank Browning
tory, and society. He is the author of five books, “Just in time for fall comes this colorful [book] with childhood apple delves into the apple’s long history and his own
including Apples: Story of the Fruit of Temptation, memories, portraits of apples, and—best of all—innovative recipes, upbringing on a Kentucky apple orchard, and
which won the 1999 IACP Julia Child Award food writer Sharon Silva recalls her childhood on
many of them with appetizing color photos.”
for best food writing. His articles have appeared a Sonoma family farm. Together, they pay homage
in the Washington Post, the International Herald —The Oregonian to the ancient fruit of temptation in this charming

an apple harvest
Tribune, the Los Angeles Times, Mother Jones, illustrated companion to apple and cider cookery.
Gourmet, and Playboy, among others. An Apple Harvest is an inviting compendium of

an apple harvest
more than sixty apple-centric recipes from Alsace
SHARoN SIlvA, coauthor of The San Fran- to Appalachia, Moscow to Morocco, Bayeux to

recipes & orchard lore

cisco Cliff House, is an editor and writer specializ- Berkeley. The feast opens with first courses such
ing in cookbooks and culinary history. She lives as Duck Breast and Fuji Apples on Watercress
in San Francisco, where her backyard harbors and Parsnip and Cider Soup and continues
a Meyer lemon tree and a Mission fig, but sadly with main dishes like Baltic Roast Goose with
no apple tree. Sour Apples and Atlantic Salmon Fillets in
Cider-Mustard Sauce. Among the side dishes are
classics like Real Applesauce and the curiously
named Burning Love. And, of course, an apple
book requires a respectable showing of desserts.
Bourbon Apple Pie, Classic Tarte Tatin, and
Apple Sorbet with Ginger are just three of the
Jacket design by Nancy Austin tempting offerings.
Jacket photography by leigh Beisch Browning and Silva pepper the collection with
spirited musings on whether to peel apples for pies
and how to choose apples and store them properly.
“The writing is crisp, tart, and juicy, and the recipes are as snake-tempting In a photographic field guide, they share more
as they are unexpected. Furthermore, the writing is pure joy, and the authors than two dozen of their favorite apple varieties and
are distinct in their voices, yet equally and eloquently in love with the subject.” detail eating and cooking characteristics, storage
qualities, peak season, and growing regions.
—Jeff Weinstein, former food columnist for the Philadelphia Inquirer Engaging storytelling and evocative photog-
and author of Learning to Eat raphy make An Apple Harvest a celebration of the
iconic fruit. Stock your pantry with cider and
Berkeley U.S. $16.99 / $18.99 CAN
Frank Browning & apples and discover for yourself the wildly varied
savory and sweet dishes that Braeburns, Cort-
I S B N 978-1-58008-446-8 Sharon Silva lands, Macouns, and their brethren can bring to
the table.
Printed in Singapore
9 781580 084468

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To purchase a copy of
An Apple Harvest
visit one of these online retailers:

file:///T|/Lyman_Emily/Retailer%20Pages/an%20apple%20harvest%20buyonline.html[10/26/2010 1:52:11 PM]

Copyright © 1999 by Frank Browning and Cover and text design by Nancy Austin
Sharon Silva Food photography by Leigh Beisch
Food styling for interior and back cover photography
All rights reserved.
by Wesley Martin
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press,
Food styling for front cover photography
an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group,
by Dan Becker
a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
Prop styling by Carol Hacker All apple identification photography (except as noted
below) by Scott Vlaun
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press
colophon are registered trademarks of Additional photography credits:
Random House, Inc. Photo of Pink Lady apple (page 35): courtesy of
Brandt’s Fruit Trees, Washington; photo of Jonathan
Originally published in hardcover in the United States apple (pages 32 & 91): courtesy of Stark Brothers.
in a slightly different form by Ten Speed Press, an
imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Random House, Inc, in 1999.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Browning, Frank, 1946-
An apple harvest : recipes and orchard lore / Frank
Browning and Sharon Silva.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-58008-446-8
1. Cookery (Apples) 2. Apples. I. Silva, Sharon.
II. Title.
TX813.A6B76 2010

First Paperback Edition

Printed in Singapore

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Con t e n t s

AC k now l e d g m e n t s • vii

I n t roduC t Ion • 1

A Brief History of the Fruit of Temptation • Choosing Your Apples:

Type, Purpose, Location, and a Word on Antiques • Keeping Your Apples •
To Peel or Not to Peel • Cider Cookery • Cider Vinegar •
Calvados and Applejack

a culinary pomarium • 23

the recipes • 39




I n de x • 14 8

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Winter Salad with Apples and White Cheddar

soon after my brother married a new englander, a prize delicacy started arriving in our
Kentucky kitchen: sharp Cabot Cheddar cheese. That’s when I learned about the Mason-Dixon rule of
cheese. Yankees make it white; southerners want it orange. Without a moment’s hesitation, I defected.
Now good supermarkets everywhere stock Vermont cheeses. It’s the combination of sweet and tart,
tangy apples with puckery-sharp cheese that makes this salad. In summer, switch to butter or oak-leaf
lettuce or the like, and use summer apples such as Tydeman Red, Gravenstein, Williams’ Red, and
Maiden Blush. Also note that McIntosh and Pink Lady tend not to oxidize (turn brown) as quickly
as others and therefore look prettier longer. —FB

Dressing 1 Fuji, Pink Lady, eastern golden Delicious,

Mcintosh, or other sweet apple, unpeeled,
21 ⁄ 2 tablespoons cider vinegar or white wine
quartered, cored, and thinly sliced
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or
1⁄2 cup walnut halves, toasted
walnut oil
Wedge of sharp white Cheddar cheese
Freshly ground pepper
••••• To make the dressing, whisk together the vinegar and
olive oil in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
1 small head radicchio, leaves separated and
cut lengthwise into narrow strips
2 heads Belgian endive, leaves separated
To make the salad, combine the radicchio, endive, and
and cut lengthwise into narrow strips frisée in a large salad bowl. Toss well. Add the apples
1 small head frisée, tough stems removed and nuts and drizzle with the dressing. Toss again. Using
and torn into small pieces a vegetable peeler or sharp paring knife, shave curls of
1 newtown Pippin, granny smith, stayman the Cheddar cheese over the top. Serve at once.
Winesap, or other tart apple, unpeeled,
quartered, cored, and thinly sliced serves 6

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F I R S T C OU R S E S 43

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Pork Loin Stuffed with Fresh and Dried Apples

In her 1828 American volume Directions for Cookery, author Eliza Leslie took the notion of
cooking from scratch seriously. She begins her pork roast instructions by calling for a “newly killed” pig.
She meant it, too, advising further that, if at all possible, the beast should be slaughtered on the morn-
ing the roast was slated for the midday table. That didn’t leave much time, so the home cook or, at best,
her husband, was clearly expected to act as butcher. Today, many of us are too lazy (or don’t even know
how) to bone a pork loin, much less cut up the whole animal. If you fall into that category, ask the
butcher to separate the bone from the loin and to butterfly the loin, leaving you only to assemble the
easy triple-apple—fresh, dried, and cider—stuffing, lash it securely in the roast, and slip the whole
works into the oven. Then you can put your feet up, pour a glass of cider, and get lost in a good novel
until the loin is done, remembering that your nineteenth-century counterpart would still be at work
carving up the rest of the pig.

stuFFing Coarse sea salt

2 tablespoons olive oil Freshly ground pepper
11 ⁄ 2 cups finely chopped yellow onion about 6 sprigs sage
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon peeled and minced To make the stuffing, warm the olive oil in a large frying
fresh ginger
pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger
2 granny smith, newtown Pippin, or
and sauté for about 5 minutes, or until the onion is
other tart green apples, peeled, cored,
and chopped translucent.

1 cup chopped dried apples

Add the fresh apples and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes, or
3 tablespoons dried currants
until they begin to take on color. Add the dried apples,
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage
currants, and chopped sage and stir well. Pour in the
1 cup dry hard cider cider, raise the heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring
salt occasionally, until the cider is absorbed, about 5 min-
Freshly ground pepper utes. Season with salt and pepper, remove from the
••••• heat, and let cool for about 10 minutes.

1 boneless pork loin, 4 to 5 pounds,

butterflied Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°F.

76 An Apple Harvest

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To stuff and roast the pork loin, lay the pork loin flat on Transfer the pork loin to a cutting board and let stand
a work surface and spread the cooled stuffing evenly for about 10 minutes before carving, then snip the
over the meat. Roll up the loin into its original shape strings and cut into slices. Arrange on a warmed platter
and, using kitchen string, tie at even intervals, pushing and serve with Fox Mountain Parsnips (page 105).
back any stuffing that tries to escape from the ends.
Season the loin with coarse salt and pepper and tuck
serves 8
the sage sprigs under the strings. Place in a roasting pan.

Roast for about 11 ⁄ 2 hours, until the meat is pale pink

when the loin is cut into at the thickest point or an
instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest
point registers 145°F to 150°F.


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Apple Sorbet with Ginger

this big batch of refreshing pink sorbet (its lovely color the result of cooking the apples
unpeeled) was gobbled right up by a legion of none-too-shy friends at one of our periodic apple-recipe
tastings. Of course, you can easily cut the recipe in half, which leaves the hardworking cook the rest of
the wine to sip when the crowd finally goes home. In either case, don’t be cheap when it comes to buy-
ing the Gewürztraminer, or your fancy sorbet will taste like sherbet dished up at a freeway truck stop.

4 pounds assorted red-skinned apples such Cut the apples into sixths lengthwise, but do not peel or
as stayman Winesap, Jonathan, Braeburn, core. Place in a heavy saucepan. Lightly crush the ginger
and northern spy
under the flat side of a knife to release its flavor, and
11 ⁄ 2-inch piece fresh ginger
add to the pan along with about 2 cups of the wine.
1 bottle (750 ml) good-quality Place over medium-high heat, bring to a steady simmer,
and cook for about 15 minutes, or until the apples are
1 cup sugar soft. Add the sugar and stir until it dissolves, about
2 minutes. Remove from the heat and scoop out and
discard the ginger.

At nineteenth-century “paring bees,” Pass the cooked apples and their liquid through a food
mill fitted with the fine disk, placed over a bowl. Stir in
a young woman would toss a piece of
the remaining wine, cover, and refrigerate until chilled,
pared apple skin over her shoulder, about 2 hours.

hopeful that it would form the first

Transfer the chilled mixture to an ice cream maker and
letter of her future husband’s name. freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions. Spoon
into a container, cover, and place in the freezer until
firm, about 2 hours.

Spoon into clear glass bowls to serve.

Makes aBout 2 quarts

138 An Apple Harvest

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To purchase a copy of
An Apple Harvest
visit one of these online retailers:

file:///T|/Lyman_Emily/Retailer%20Pages/an%20apple%20harvest%20buyonline.html[10/26/2010 1:52:11 PM]

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