AUTEX Research Journal, Vol.

8, No3, September 2008 © AUTEX

A COMPARATIVE QUALITY OPTIMISATION BETWEEN RING SPUN AND SLUB YARNS

BY USING DESIRABILITY FUNCTION
Hajer Souid, Amel Babay, Mehdi Sahnoun, Morched Cheikrouhou

Textile Research Unit of ISET of Ksar-Hellal, B.P 68, Avenue Hadj Ali SOUA,
Ksar Hellal, Tunisia, 5070. E-mail: hajersouid@yahoo.fr

Abstract:

The present study was conducted to develop a credible approach to determine the quality of ring spun and slub
yarns by virtue of criteria incorporating combinations of the fundamental fiber characteristics. Critical yarn
parameters are to be investigated. The values of these tested properties were introduced into a database that
ranked the quality of the yarn against industry standards. The paper investigates the possibilities of using the
global optimization superimposed diagram response surface methodology in order to identify the spinner
feasibility conditions across the customer yarn quality requirements. The spinner approach consists of optimiz-
ing the yarn count and twist. We have also studied the customer approach to optimize the yarn responses
simultaneously by the use of the desirability functions. The response optimizer searches for a combination of
input variables that jointly optimize the set of the responses by satisfying the customer requirements for each
response in the set.

Keywords:

Ring spun, slub yarn, desirability function

Introduction superimposed contours. Indeed, this prediction should help

the spinner to estimate whether the yarn that is produced will
Developments in spinning have generated many yarns match the customer taste and the spinning parameters to
structures intend for different domains and end use. In fact, reach the desired quality.
the annual production of fancy yarns is roughly estimated as
more than 100000 tons [1]. In denim industry, the production Materials and methods
of slub yarns is becoming increasingly useful and prevailing
compared to the conventional yarn [2]. This increase is In this survey, we study the following yarn aspects (Table 1):
reported to the fabric effect gotten with slub yarn. Therefore,
this fancy yarn type which consists of two parts, the slubs (or Table 1. Yarn properties.
flames) and the spacings (figure 1), confers an aesthetic
aspect which provides the initial impulse of attraction and Yarn properties Instrument Symbol
may be the only factor that influences the decision to buy. This Tenacity (CN/ Tex) Uster tensiorapid 3 RKM
innovation is beneficial economically for yarn manufacturers Tenacity evenness (%) Uster tensiorapid 3 CVRKM
that find it difficult to compete in standard products [3] and Breaking elongation (%) Uster tensiorapid 3 E%
also for the customer who find a decorative effect and a better Breaking work (Joule) Uster tensiorapid 3 TR
texture imparted to the product.
Regularity (%) Uster tester 3 U%
Number of thick points Uster tester 3 THIK
Number of thin points Uster tester 3 THIN
Number of neps Uster tester 3 BOUT
Hairiness Uster tester 3 PILO
Figure 1. Slub yarn configuration.
These characteristics are measured according to international
This novelty generates a change in yarn properties compared
standards and represent the database outputs.
to the conventional yarn. In this study, we have searched to
assess slub yarns quality with comparison to that one of the
conventional ring spun yarn. Traditionally, manufacturers have For the database inputs, we used different spinning
used yarn strength as a major measure of yarn quality [4, 5, production parameters, which are related to fibers’
and 6]. Here, we have quantified the level of satisfaction of characteristics. These parameters were also evaluated
customer all quality criterions simultaneously by using the according to international standards and were measured
desirability approach. The slub yarn studied in this paper is using the High Volume Instrument (HVI) testing system. The
produced on the ring spinning system equipped with the fibers’ properties, which cover wide range of HVI fiber property
Amsler device [7]. We predicted the ring spun and slub yarn values, are summarized in Table 2.
global quality upon an experimental data base, which includes
several properties. A statistical summary of all fiber property measurements
(mean, standard deviation, minimum, and maximum) is given
The second aim of the present study is to find a compromise in Table 3.
zone for the spinner and customer by using the diagrams of

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Table 2. Fiber properties. are made using yarn count and twist as the two axes in the
plot. The yarn responses are simultaneously kept at the
Fiber property Instrument symbol desired level ranges as required. The white area inside each
Micronaire index HVI Mic plot shows the range of yarn count and twist number where
Maturity HVI Mat the criteria for both response variables are satisfied. So, we
Upper Half Mean Length (UHML) HVI Len can input the customer tolerance interval for each property
and see which is the most convenient couple of yarn count
Length Uniformity HVI Unif
and twist to be spun.
Short Fiber index HVI Sfi
Strength HVI Str
If we consider the quality of yarn as mentioned in the right of
Elongation HVI Elg the Figures 2a and 2b for the whole ranges of yarn count and
Trash count HVI Tr cnt twist picked from the spinner data base, we obtain the
Trash area HVI Tr area diagrams of superimposed contours as shown in the same
Trash grade HVI Tr grade graph. We conclude that the zone of compromise (white zone)
Greyness ( color reflectance) HVI Rd permitting the satisfaction of all yarn properties indicates the
Yellowness HVI +b necessity to use ring spun yarns with yarn count (Nm)

Table 3. Summary statistics for fiber properties.

Parameters Mic Mat Len Unif Sfi Str Elg Tr cnt Tr area Tr grade Rd +b
Minimum value 4,00 0,85 26,80 78,40 4,40 25,30 4,90 2,00 0,06 1,00 73,55 9,20
Maximum value 4,70 0,91 29,62 82,80 10,00 34,90 8,20 21,00 0,24 4,00 80,00 14,30
Standard deviation 0,18 0,01 0,68 0,92 1,34 1,78 0,95 6,42 0,06 1,18 1,51 1,42
Mean 4,31 0,88 28,44 81,00 7,77 29,22 6,54 10,84 0,11 2,18 75,64 10,57

Table 4-a. Summary statistics for ring spun yarn properties.

Parameters RKM CVRKM E% TR U% THIK THIN BOUT PILO Nm Twist

Minimum value 14.64 4.54 6.27 1.27 7.37 2.75 2.00 0.45 6.62 10.10 364
Maximum value 22.12 7.96 9.72 6.58 12.32 179.50 19.43 220.20 11.84 21.12 629
Standard deviation 1.23 3.17 0.77 0.85 0.96 18.59 3.76 17.37 6.11 3.46 66.65
Mean 17.32 6.85 7.87 2.83 9.92 54.29 1.46 64.09 9.74 13.07 463

Table 4-b. Summary statistics for slub yarn properties.

Parameters RKM CVRKM E% TR Nm Twist

Minimum value 12.26 4.61 6.01 1.13 9.38 408
Maximum value 16.97 15.00 8.66 6.24 17.83 698
Standard deviation 1.03 2.06 0.83 0.69 4.42 80
Mean 16.77 8.22 7.70 2.39 14.49 536

The fibers’ characteristics are common for ring spun and
slub (flame) yarns as they both preserve the same blow room
spinning process .The statistical summary of ring spun and
slub yarns properties measurements are given respectively
in tables 4-a and 4-b. For the slub yarn, the properties U%,
THIK, THIN, BOUT and PILO were not measured as the flame
yarn presents provocative irregularities in its construction.
The borderlines of the slub yarn properties cover the different
sizes of the flames presented in the database of the present
industry.
Optimising ring spun and slub yarns quality with overlaid
contour plot
The present method consists of giving an objective and an
acceptance zone for each yarn property. The goal of this study
is to find the suitable and feasible ranges of the metric yarn
count (Nm) and twists that the spinner can apply while holding
the properties restrain imposed by the consumer at certain
settings.
The graphics are two overlaid contour plots (Figure 2) drawn
by using “Minitab” software for data analysis. Contour plots
belonging to the interval [14.17; 17.78] and twist (rd/m)
belonging to the interval [511; 629].
The common properties of the two yarns type are imposed to
the same ranges setting (RKM ∈ [16 ; 22]; CVRKM∈ [5 ; 10];
E%∈ [6 ; 9]; TR ∈ [2 ; 4]). For the slub yarn, the zone of feasibility
(or compromise zone) is obtained with yarn count (Nm)
belonging to the interval [9.47; 16.54] and a twist belonging to
the interval [390; 664]. We can conclude that the ring spun
yarn quality is obtained for a yarn count (Nm) higher than that
one of the slub yarn. Effectively, due to its irregular structure
composed with flames and thinnesses, the slub yarn should
have lower values of yarn count compared to the ring spun
yarn to reach a higher quality.
If we change yarn properties values according to customer
demands, the spinner would have other optimal couples of
yarn count and twist.
Optimizing ring spun and slub yarns quality with
desirability approach
In desirability approach to optimization, each of the response
values is transformed using a specific desirability function
that reflects the yarn quality level. The steps followed in
desirability approach are:

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a. Ring spun yarn b. Slub yarn

Figure 2. Overlaid contour plot for the yarn responses for ring spun yarn (a) and slub yarn (b).

1/ First, we obtain Derringer and Suich [8, 9] individual If a response is to be minimized instead such as CVRKM or
hairiness, the individual desirability is defined as:
desirability function ( d i ) for each response using the provided
goals and boundaries. There are three goals to choose from: ⎧ 1 if Yi ≤ LTI i
⎪ q
ƒ to target the response (target is best) ⎪⎡ Yi − LSTi ⎤
d i = ⎨⎢ ⎥ if µ i ≤ Yi ≤ LSTi
ƒ to minimize the response (smaller is better) ⎪⎣ µi − LSTi ⎦ [3]
ƒ to maximize the response (larger is better) ⎪ 0 if Yi ≥ LSTi
⎩

To target a response such as the yarn count and twist, we 2/ After calculating an individual desirability for each response,
use the following formula. they are combined to provide a measure of the composite or
overall desirability D of the multi-response system. This
p measure of the composite desirability D (equation 4) is the
⎧⎡
⎪ ⎢ Yi − LITi ⎤⎥
⎪ ⎢ µ − LIT ⎥ if LITi ≤ Yi ≤ µi
weighted geometric mean of the individual desirabilities ( d i )
⎪⎣ i i⎦ for the responses.
⎪ q
⎪⎡ Yi − LSTi ⎤
di = ⎨⎢ µ − LST ⎥ if µi ≤ Yi ≤ LSTi
⎪⎢ ⎥ D = w d1w1 × d2w2 × ...× dnwn [4]
⎪⎣ i i⎦
⎪ 1 if Yi = µi w = ∑ wi ; are the weight of ith response
⎪
⎪
⎪ 0 if Y ≤ LIT or Y ≥ LST
⎪⎩ i i i i The individual and the composite desirabilities for all
[1] responses have both a range of zero to one. One represents
The notation used in the formula 1 is: the ideal case; zero indicates that one or more responses
are outside their acceptable limits.
Yi = predicted value of ith response
µ i = target value for ith response 3/ Maximizing the composite desirability and identifying the
th
optimal input variable settings
LITi = lowest acceptable value for i response
LSTi = highest acceptable value for ith response The global desirability D was optimized by using an excel
p,q = weight of desirability function of ith response: two different algorithm, which is modified when the definition of yarn quality
requirement levels to make less or more importance to the is changed.
response when it is lower or higher than the target. For
instance, the customer can be more rigorous when the The setting parameters that maximize the yarn quality are
elongation is lower than the target. In this study, we took p=1 modified with the customer demands. As an example, we set
these properties for both ring spun and slub yarns respectively
and q = 1 which means that we have the same requirement
as follow in Tables 5-a and 5-b:
if it is under or upper the target.
The weight values are accorded to make less emphasis on
If we want to maximize a response such as tenacity (RKM), the target or to place more emphasis on the target. If some
regularity (U %) or breaking work energy (TR), we use the responses are more important than others, we can
desirability function according to equation 2 as follow: incorporate this information into the optimal solution by setting
unequal importance values. In our case, we chose a weight
⎧ 0 if Yi ≤ LITi
⎪ q
value equal to one which places equal importance between
⎪⎡ Y − LITi ⎤ responses.
d i = ⎨⎢ i ⎥ if LITi ≤ Yi ≤ µi
⎪⎣ µi − LITi ⎦ [2]
⎪ 1 if Yi ≥ µi The illustrations below (Table 6) show the global desirability
⎩
for ring spun and slub yarns.

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Table 5-a. Response optimization of the ring spun yarn. Table 5-b. Response optimization of the slub yarn.

Lower Upper Lower Upper

Responses Objectives Target Responses Objectives Target
limit limit limit limit
RKM Maximise 16 19 * RKM Maximise 14 15 *
CV RKM Minimise * 5 10 CV RKM Minimise * 5 8
TR Maximise 2 4 * TR Maximise 3 4 *
Hairiness Minimise * 7 8 Elongation Maximise 6 7 *
Elongation Maximise 6 7 * Yarn count Target 11.5 12 12.5
Unevenness
Maximise 8 11 * Twist Target 475 480 485
(U%)
Yarn count Target 9 10 11
Twist Target 380 395 405

Table 6. The global desirability for ring spun and slub yarns.

Yarn type Response Individual desirability Weight exigency Predicted Responses Global desirability
RKM 0.66 1 17.33
CVRKM 0.86 1 5.68
TR 0.50 1 2.99
Hairiness 0.24 1 8.91
Ring spun 0.46
U% 0.21 1 8.64
E% 0.62 1 7.77
Nm 0.63 1 10.37
Twist 0.80 1 397
RKM 0.90 1 17.61
CVRKM 0.67 1 5.98
TR 0.63 1 3.63
Slub yarn 0.82
Nm 0.92 1 11.96
Twist 1.00 1 480
E% 0.26 1 8.48

Table7. Fiber optimum parameters.

Fiber property
Length
Mic mat unif sfi str elg tr cnt tr area tr grade rd +b
UHML
Yarn type
Ring 4.30 0.88 28.90 81.30 5.90 29.90 5.60 11.00 0.08 2.00 75.6 10.10
Slub 4.60 0.89 28.60 81.10 6.80 30.00 6.40 24 0.24 4.00 73.3 10.3

For interpreting the desirability values found, we have followed Nm

Harrington’s rating system [8]. The ring spun composite
desirability (Table 6) ranges between 0.40 and 0.60. In
Harrington standards, this borderline specifies that the product
quality is acceptable to the specification limits but
improvement is desired. Effectively, for the ring spun yarn, the
individual desirability of the response CVRKM is satisfied
(equal to 0.86). Whereas the individual desirabilities of
uniformity (U %) and Hairiness of the same yarn are
unacceptable (respectively equal to 0.21 and 0.24).
For the slub yarn (Table 6), the global desirability value is
equal to 0.82 which lies between 0.8 and 1. This interval
provides a relatively acceptable and excellent quality according
to Harrington standards. For this yarn, the specifications for
RKM, Nm and Twist have been easily met, whereas, the
specification for CVRKM, TR and E(%) are barely satisfied.
For the slub yarn, the algorithm optimises in addition to the
predicted responses the most convenient program of flames
that should be manipulated in the Amsler unit. In this example,
the adequate program to maximize the composite desirability
involves the following specifications:
ƒ The number of flames per meter = 2.505
ƒ t× = 0.937
1000
The following step consists of setting the optimal input variable
levels that have maximized the yarns composite desirabilities.
That is, the fiber optimum parameters would be set as
mentioned in Tables 5a and 5b. In this case, the two yarn
types fairly show a similar global solution (Table 7).
Conclusion
The idea in this article is to develop a composite yarn quality
index by using the global desirability function and the individual
desirability function of each property in order to aid in
multicriterion yarn quality optimization. This will closely depict
the perception of yam quality as preferred by the consumers.
For this case, an excel program was developed to predict the
level of the customer quality satisfaction. In this program, we
can vary the objectives, the tolerance intervals and the
corresponding weights of the yarn properties as required by
the customer. Face to the customers’ quality constraints, the
spinner can predict the feasibility and the suitable ranges of
ring spun and slub yarns counts and twists by studying the

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compromise zone using the diagrams of superimposed

contours.

Nevertheless, the possibility of finding an optimal solution

that satisfies simultaneously all required responses remains
a little bit limited. The benefits from deriving these alternative
desirability functions are limited by the fact that if only one of
the individual desirabilities is null, then the global desirability
will be null.

References

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