SILK

Silk is the queen o the fibre. The ancient Chinese were credited with the
discovery of silk and the cultivation of silk warm. The silk industry, which produces
the brilliant and the fashion fabrics

Silk is a continuous protein filament fibre extruded by silk warm. It possesses

all the desirable properties of textiles fibres. It is solidified protein produced by certain
caterpillars which will encase themselves in the form of cocoon.

Types Of Silk

The silk industry can be mainly classified in to two types. Mulberry and non-
Mulberry. The non-mulberry silk industry consists of TASSAR, ERI, MUGA, silks.

1.6.1 SILK PRODUCING COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD

Major silk producing countries in the world to-day are: Japan, china, Soviet
Union, India, Italy, South Korea, Turkey, Iran, Brazil, Spain, France, Sicily, Syria and
Austria.

Egg

Egg that has been selected art kept in cold storage for approximately six weeks
after they are laid. Then they are placed in incubators where they remain until are
all hatched after 12 to 15 days. 1 ounce of egg yields many as36, 000 silk worms.

Caterpillar

It is a larva about ¼” in length. The larva requires careful nuturing in a

controlled atmosphere for approximately 20 to 30 da

1.6.2 SERICULTURE- LIFE CYCLE OF SILK WORM

Pupa

The enclosed silkworm undergoes a remarkable transformation, passing from

the form of a caterpillar in to an inert chrysalis or pupa. The pupa inside the cocoon
develops into a moth.

The continuous silk filament broken up into thousand short pieces. So few days
its cocoon the pupa must be killed by steaming. Good cocoons are kept or breeding.

Moth

The moth emerge from the cocoons are small grayish white insects and lives
only a few hours. They cannot fly; they have no mouth and cannot eat. The sole job of
the silk worm is to mate and lay its batch of 350-400 eggs. After laying eggs, the moth
dies.

1.6.3 MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF SILK

Reeling (Or) Filature

 Silk is quite different from other natural fibers which are produced in relatively
short lengths. Silkworm makes its cocoon from twin filament that extruded from its
spinneret in a continuous strand.

This filament may be as much as a mile in length. The production of a

“thread” or “yarn” o silk suitable or weaving is therefore a process different from that
which is used in the case o shorter fibers.

The unwinding of the fine silk filaments from the cocoons is called reeling.
Reeling consists of the following operations.

Stifling

Here the moths inside the cocoons are killed by steam or hot water.

Grading Or Sorting:

To obtain uniform and good quality yarn. Silk grading is done. Cocoons of
different sizes are grouped together; damaged and ill- developed cocoons are rejected
and used in the waste industry.

Cooking

The sorted cocoons are placed in 1% hot soap solution at 90.C in a vat to soften
the sericin gum and to enable the filaments to be drawn out easily as one continuous
thread. Good cooking is essential for the success of subsequent operation and it is done
for a few minutes.

Brushing

After cooking, the unreel able, discontinuous and rough mass of fibers called
floss is removed with a brush until the free end from which the continuous length is
found floss is used in the waste industry.

Cocoons, after brushing are transferred to a basin containing water kept at 60.C.
Reeling requires great skill. As the operator must produce uniform thread by
combining the skill filaments in suitable fashion.
 To produced a silk thread of 28 to30 denier.15 to 18 filaments are combined .the
required number of filament are brought together to form a thread by drawing them
over a glass roller and then through a porcelain guide, drilled with vertical hole gauge
to denier required.

Croissure

If the silk filaments are simply drawn the result would be ribbon or a tape. So
to obtain a cylindrical thread it in necessary to have a device called croissure.

If the temperature of the reeling bath is hot the silk comes off very quickly, if it
is too cold, it comes of with difficulty and cause breakage so the temperature must be
kept in moderate condition.

Raw Silk

The silk is cocoon is consists of two filaments composed of fibron, cemented

together by sericine silk gum. The two filaments are known as bave.

The average figures are 76% fibroin, 22% sericin; 1.5% fat and wax and 0.5%
mineral salts. The sericin is soluble in water and removed in hot soap solution or dilute
alkali.

Degummed Silk

The natural gum sericine is normally left on the silk during reeling, throwing
and weaving. It acts as a size which protects the fibres from mechanical injury. The
gum is removed from the finished yarns or fabrics, usually by boiling with soap and
water. Degummed silk is called as “soft silk”.

Weighting of Silk

Degummed silk is steeped in a solution of tin chloride and the silk filaments
absorb some of the salt. After washing silk is steeped in a solution of sodium
phosphate. This double steeping process is repeated several times, after which the silk
is soaked in a both of sodium silicate solutions.

1.6.4 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF SILK

1. Microscopic Appearance:

Longitudinal view -- double fibre

Cross-sectional -- triangular

2. Length: average up to 1300m

3. Diameter: 0.00054 to 0.0018 inch

4. Colour: yellowish

5. Lustre: Bright with gum out

6. Strength: 2.5 to 5 grams per denier

7. Elongation: 10 to 25% of length

8. Conductivity of heat: low

9. Moisture regains: 11%

10. Capillarity and penetrability: none

11. Composition of fibre: fibroin with sericine gum

12. Method of preparation: Boil off with soap to degum

13. Specific gravity: 1.25 to 1.34

1.6.5 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF SILK

1. Effect of light: Weakened

2. Mildew: Slightly attacked

3. Heat: At 231F dry heat, begins to yellow above 330F disintegrates

 4. Water: Temporary loss of strength 10-25%, Wet may be steam pressed,

5. Mineral acids (H2SO4, HCL, HNO3 ): Acid dyes do not injure even at boil;

concentrated acids destroy

6. Volatile organic acids (Formic acid, acetic): No damage unless heated

7. Non volatile acid (Oxalic, tartaric, citric): Must be washed out thoroughly

to prevent weakening

8. Strong alkalis (NaOH, Na2CO3): Damaged,

9. Metallic salts: Has practically no affinity,

10. Affinity for dye stuff: Good,

11. Classes of dyestuffs in common use: Acid dyes,

12. Effect of insects: safe,

Uses

Silk prevents body heat from radiations, It is desirable for winter apparel, Silk
yarn is used to produce such sheer fabric as georgette, taffeta, Organdy, Spun silk is
used for shanting and pile fabrics for dress trimmings, linings, elastic webbing and or
velvets, It acts as a umbrella fabrics and for insulative materials, Wild silk fabrics are
durable and have a coarse irregular surface, Typical fabrics are rayah, shantung,
tussah and pongee.

MICROSCOPIC APPEARANCE OF SILK

LONGITUDINAL VIEW CROSS SECTIONAL VIEW