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This DIY will walk through, in detail, the steps that I took in creating my
retrofits. This will be covered in 2 parts. The first part will include
disassembling, cutting, test fitting, and bonding the housing. The second
part will include mounting, modifying the covers, sealing up, and wiring.
Here is some advice I wish I had when doing my first two sets,
by the third I have pretty much gotten the hang of it.
4) line up the housing you make with the blinker/fog this will
help you in the long run when adjusting the projector,
5) make sure the projector doesn't touch the housing in the back
so you can use the stock adjusters or you will be sorry when you
haveto adjust them,
10) since you need alot of time and space to do this make sure
you have an extra set of headlights to have on your car or you
will rush through it and screw it up!
Lighting
-(2) OEM E46 Bi-xenon projectors w/ solenoid/cut-off shield (3-wire) and
D2S bulb holders - $110 - Use E55 Bi-xenon projectors over the E46
if possible. Makes mounting a lot easier.
Note: The E55 projectors are easier to mount as they are more
proportional
-D2S 35W Ballast with built-in ignitors
-D2S Bulbs - 6K
-Set of Jetta headlights without fogs - $85
Wiring
-Power relay - $30
-VW Repair Wire - $4.90 (Part #: 000 979 133)
-(2) Solinoid Controllers - 3-wire to 2-wire circuit board/pigtails - $18
Misc.
-(2) 3" ID (Inside Diameter) PVC - $12
-JB Weld (A lot) - $12 Fusor is a better choice - JB Weld will crack
over time
-Outdoor silicon
-(8) #10 Wood Screws - 1-1/4" - $9
-3/16" Flat washers (A lot) - $6
-Krylon Satin Black spray paint - $6
-Permanent marker
Extras
-Dual turn signals w/ Amber lenses - $35 (Thanks to Underground VW
Parts )
-3" Shrouds - $46 off eBay
Tools
-Wide flathead screwdriver
-T-15 Torx Drive (For turn signals and fogs)
-T-10 Torx Drive
-Dremel or some sort of dynamic cutting device
-Oven/Hairdryer/Heat gun
-Solder / Iron / Electrical tape
Steps
Part I
Step 1 - Disassemble Headlamps
Step 2 - Cuttin' Sh*t Up
Step 3 - Preparing Projectors for Test Fitting
Step 4 - Test Fitting
Step 5 - Bonding the Housing
Part II
Step 6 - Extras
Step 7 - Mounting Projectors
Step 8 - Modifying Covers
Step 9 - Wiring
Step 10 - Finishing Touches
Taking the 3" ID PVC connector start to take measurements and trace an
outline of the outside diameter of PVC connector onto the back of the
reflector shield.
I used a Dremel to make smooth and precise cuts. Once the hole is cut
put the PVC connector up to it and start to grind away at the hole until
the PVC connector can slide through.
Step 3 - Preparing Projectors for Test Fitting
Bought my OEM E46 projectors and bulb holders off eBay. Received them
3 days later in great condition:
I started by disassembling them to remove the lenses and start to get
measurements. There are (4) T-15 torx screws holding the lens and
frame. Remove these bolts carefully, not to drop the frame and lens.
Then separate from the rest of the housing:
Next, on the inside of the lens frame you can see how the lens is being
held into place. First, push back the safety bends with a pair of pliers or if
your a badass, with your fingers:
Now, you will see the metal safety ring sitting on the lens. Simply go for
the middle of the ring (opposite of the ring gap) and gently pull up.
Continue around the ring until it comes out. Then, using your fingers hold
the lens in place while you turn the frame 180* and gently lift it off the
lens:
I then cleaned the lens and made sure there were no scratches or breaks,
wrapped them up and put them in safe keeping until later on:
Once they are separated the solenoid and cut-off shield will easily slide
forward and off the housing:
Step 4 - Test Fitting
Taking the lens frame and a 3" ID PVC sit it inside to see how it is going
to fit. I needed to make 2 notches in the PVC connector because the lens
frame has 2 legs that extrude past 3" in diameter.
Now to test fit the projector housing. I will be using 1-1/4" #10 wood
screws and 3/16" washers to mount it in place.
Note: I painted the PVC fittings before test fitting; which shouldn't be
done because of scratching/blemishing the paint while test fitting.
2 of the holes line up to the slot on the PVC and 2 hang over a little. In
order to mount the other 2 I used some brackets - same brackets that
hold the 1.8T engine cover to the valve cover - and used a metal grinder
to grind away whatever needed for it to sit flush.
Now to paint whatever needs to be painted. I will be painting the PVC
connectors, lens frames, reflector shield and surrounds. I am using
Krylon Satin Black. I lightly sanded the surfaces before painting. Then a
couple coats of paint should be good.
During drying times I cleaned up the lenses.I used a flathead screwdriver
to scrap away most of it. Then finished it off using some GooGone. Finally
I washed the lenses and this is the result after 1 round of polishing.
Step 5 - Bonding the Housing
I first sat the PVC fitting in the reflector housing. Then I made sure the
PVC was in the correct orientation; both horizontal and vertical. Below
shows correct orientation.
Once the orientation was set I mixed up with JB Weld and applied all the
away around. This coat was kind of thin, so I will be putting another layer
on.
I have also recently decided to grab some shrouds off eBay. Grabbed
them for $46 shipped.
Since the shrouds will require me to sit the lens and frame further out the
front of the PVC fitting I needed to cut complete notches. I also needed to
sand down the lip on the PVC fitting so it was flush with the rest in order
for the shroud to fit properly.
Then I needed to shave a little off the inner sides in order for the cut-off
shield to drop without interference. It just takes a lot of testing, marking,
and cutting. These are not the easiest projectors to deal with.