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1) The-Grain-Brain-Cookbook-David-Perlm (114-213) PDF
1) The-Grain-Brain-Cookbook-David-Perlm (114-213) PDF
SERVES 4
1 bunch broccoli
2 tablespoons minced garlic
Salt
Red pepper flakes
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Using a vegetable peeler, trim the outer skin from the broccoli stalks. Split each
stalk, including the florets, into 2 or 3 pieces of fairly equal size. Place the stalks on a
rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with the garlic and season with salt and red pepper
flakes to taste. Pour on the olive oil and toss to evenly coat.
Transfer to the preheated oven and roast, turning occasionally, until just barely
tender and slightly charred on the edges, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and
serve hot or at room temperature.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving: calories 221, carbohydrates 21 g, fiber 9 g, protein 7 g, fat 15 g, sodium
256 mg, sugar 4 g
Broccoli, Mushrooms, and Feta
SERVES 4
If you add a bit more feta to this recipe, it can stand alone on the plate. If
you do, be sure to buy a beautiful imported sheep’s milk feta. This recipe
uses only the broccoli florets, but be sure to save the stalks. They can be
peeled, cut into pieces, and sautéed or shaved into salads (or used for the
Healthy Green Slaw on here).
This is certainly a different broccoli from the plain old green that has
been so maligned over the years. The tahini and coconut add unexpected
flavor and take the broccoli from the dull cafeteria table to the realm of
can-I-have-seconds.
When I was a child no one ate Brussels sprouts; they were boiled to an
unappetizing gray color and were soggy and tasteless. But they have
recently gained in popularity, even in four-star restaurants, probably
because nowadays they are most often roasted to bring out their inherent
sweetness. Here, the salty pancetta and aromatic sage deepen the
sweetness and make them particularly inviting.
This is the basic method for sautéing all types of greens—collard, kale,
mustard, beet, escarole, chicory, chard—well, you get it, any type of
green you can find. To the basic recipe you can add a handful of pine
nuts or toasted slivered almonds, a good dose of freshly grated orange or
lemon zest, a chopped red or white onion, a bunch of chopped scallions,
minced green or red hot chile, or any fresh herb that you favor. I make
them my own by tossing in 3 tablespoons butter just before I take them
off of the stove and then shaving Parmesan cheese over the top.
Please do be mindful that that huge mound of chopped raw greens
will cook down to a very manageable amount, so always start with much
more than you think you need—1 pound of trimmed fresh greens will
yield just a little more than 1 cup cooked.
The pumpkin seeds and scallions add a little crunch and snap to the
wilted spinach. You could also use toasted pine nuts, chopped walnuts,
or cashews in place of the pumpkin seeds.
Radicchio, like all chicories, can be quite bitter, but once it is grilled the
flavor mellows. Just before it is finished grilling, I often lay a couple of
slices of soft cheese on the top and let it melt a bit into the radicchio,
rather than shave Parmesan on after it has cooked. This dish can add a
bit of pizzazz to grilled meats, poultry, or fish.
Braising the cabbage in wine softens some of the bitterness and makes a
lovely flavorful broth. This is a recipe you can truly make your own by
changing the spices and adding herbs and/or chiles or a touch of citrus.
You don’t have to add the stevia, but it does help bring out the cabbage’s
sweetness.
This dish is perfect in the spring when both asparagus and new, almost-
sweet onions are in their prime. If you can’t find spring onions, look for
large scallions to use in their place.
I guarantee that people who think they don’t like beets will love this dish.
There is now such a wide variety of beets available that you can make
this dish into a rainbow of colors and sizes. I have seen white, candy
cane, yellow, purple, Chioggia, baby, and so on. The best thing about
beets is that their greens are as useful and delicious as the root, so don’t
discard them—you can use them to make Sautéed Greens (here)
tomorrow.
Although they are not easy to find, baby artichokes are a real delicacy.
Braised, they become very tender and quite unlike the large globe
artichokes whose flesh has to be scraped off the leaves with your teeth.
This recipe is similar to the classic Italian take on a favorite
Mediterranean vegetable.
1 lemon
2 pounds baby artichokes
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
Grated zest of 1 orange
½ cup dry white wine
Salt and pepper
Fill a large bowl with cold water. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice
into the water. Then, add the squeezed halves.
Working with one at a time, trim the top prickly tips from each artichoke. Lay the
artichoke on its side and make one swift cut with a sharp knife to neatly trim about ¼
inch off the top. If the artichoke has a stem, use a vegetable peeler to peel off the tough
outer skin and lop off the dry bottom. Pull off any damaged outer leaves and then cut
the artichoke in half lengthwise. Immediately place each cut artichoke into the lemon
water to keep it from discoloring. Continue trimming until all of the artichokes are
done.
Cover the bottom of a large sauté pan with ¼ cup of the olive oil. Place over
medium heat and add the shallots and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, just until
softened, about 2 minutes.
Add the artichokes, cut-side down. Add the orange zest and white wine and
season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and bring to a simmer. Lower the heat and
simmer until the artichokes are tender, about 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat and drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil.
Taste and, if necessary, season with additional salt and pepper. Serve warm or at
room temperature. Or, cool, cover, and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Bring to room temperature before serving.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving: calories 117, carbohydrates 10 g, fiber 4 g, protein 2 g, fat 7 g, sodium
155 mg, sugar 2 g
Grilled Parmesan Tomatoes
SERVES 4
One tomato is usually enough for a serving, but these are so tasty I
suggest you make a couple of extras—if not eaten, they can be served at
room temperature for lunch tomorrow. The tomatoes can also be cooked
entirely under a preheated broiler, but do watch carefully to keep the
cheese from burning.
This dish is lovely when done with cherry tomatoes of different sizes and
colors. Even if they are tiny, cut them in half—otherwise you’ll get a
good squirt of juice in the eye when you prick them with your fork. To
change the flavor, substitute extra-virgin olive oil for the butter.
Plantains are not often found on most American tables, except on those
of families from Caribbean or Latin American countries, where they are
an everyday staple. One of the most popular ways to cook plantains is to
fry them until crisp and golden. Tostones also make an unsurpassed
snack. You can substitute extra-virgin olive oil or avocado oil for the
coconut oil.
Coconut oil
2 green plantains
Salt
Place about 3 inches of oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring
to 375°F on a candy thermometer.
While the oil is heating, peel the plantains and cut them crosswise into ¾-inch-
thick slices.
When the oil has reached temperature, begin frying the plantains. Do not crowd
the pan. Fry until just tender, about 3 minutes. Do not turn off the heat; maintain the
temperature.
Use a slotted spoon to lift the plantains from the oil and place on a double layer
of paper towels to drain for 1 minute.
Using a large fork, smash the warm slices into flattened rounds. Return to the hot
oil, in batches, and fry until very crisp and golden brown, about 4 minutes. Continue
frying until all of the plantains are done, transferring them back to the paper towels as
they finish.
Generously sprinkle with salt and serve while still hot and crisp.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving: calories 229, carbohydrates 29 g, fiber 2 g, protein 1 g, fat 13 g, sodium
294 mg, sugar 13 g
Butternut Squash with Spinach and Pistachios
SERVES 4
You can make this dish with any type of hard winter squash, including
pumpkin. If you want to make it a main course, add about 8 ounces
crumbled ricotta salata or feta cheese when the squash is still hot. The
cheese will melt a bit and add some brininess to the sweet roasted
squash.
2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into large cubes
(see Note)
3 tablespoons clarified butter (see here), ghee, or unsalted butter,
melted
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt and pepper
3 cups baby spinach or arugula or finely chopped greens of choice
½ cup toasted unsalted pistachios
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and
set aside.
Combine the squash with the clarified butter, vinegar, and lemon juice in a large
mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste and toss to coat well.
Spread the seasoned squash in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet.
Transfer to the preheated oven and roast, turning occasionally, until golden brown and
tender, about 25 minutes.
Place the spinach in a large mixing bowl. Remove the squash from the oven and
add it to the spinach. Add the nuts and toss to blend. Taste and, if necessary, season
with additional salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
NOTE: Make sure that the squash cubes are of an equal size so that they roast evenly.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving: calories 248, carbohydrates 27 g, fiber 9 g, protein 5 g, fat 15 g, sodium
499 mg, sugar 6 g
Zucchini Casserole with Prosciutto and Cheese
SERVES 4
This dish partners well with grilled meat or poultry since it is quite rich,
but it can certainly stand alone as a filling lunch or brunch dish, or even
as a light supper.
This dish is unusual in its flavor and in the combination of celery and
fennel, two vegetables we usually eat raw. Don’t forget to save some of
the fennel fronds for garnish—they add a wonderful freshness to the
warm vegetables.
With so much interest in plant-based diets, cooks have come up with all
kinds of inventive methods for cooking vegetables. Turning cauliflower
into little couscous-like nuggets is one of the winners. Steamed, it can
become a base for stews and sauces; it can also be seasoned in any
number of ways to make a terrific side dish. I will give you a couple of
ideas of things to do with this vegetable “couscous,” but I urge you to
use your imagination to take it all over the world with the addition of
other vegetables, spices, sauces, and/or herbs.
The mix of green and yellow accented with the black sesame seeds
creates a beautiful side dish for almost any protein. If you can’t find
black sesame seeds, toast some white ones to a nice golden brown.
These beans are a perfect match with almost any meat or fish. The
walnuts add an unusual dimension so that everyday green beans become
the star of the plate.
1 pound green beans, trimmed and cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
⅓ cup chopped raw walnuts
1 teaspoon freshly grated orange zest
Salt and pepper
Place the beans in a large stockpot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil
over high heat and then immediately lower the heat to a simmer. Simmer until crisp-
tender, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain well. Pat dry.
Heat the butter in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add the walnuts and
cook, stirring constantly, just until the nuts begin to color, about 2 minutes. Add the
beans and, using tongs, toss and turn to coat well. Add the orange zest and season with
salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a large bowl and serve.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving: calories 171, carbohydrates 8 g, fiber 4 g, protein 4 g, fat 15 g, sodium
151 mg, sugar 3 g
Meat
This is the ultimate dinner party or buffet dish. It can be served hot or at
room temperature, and the smoky, fatty bacon is the perfect foil for the
tender, mildly flavored meat. A lovely platter of mixed roasted vegetables
(here) would make the meal complete—they, too, can be served hot or at
room temperature.
This classic, old-time restaurant dish is easily made at home. The most
important thing to remember is that the steaks cook very quickly, and
since they are low in fat, if you overcook them they will be dry and
tough.
This recipe can be made with almost any steak or chop except filet
mignon, which is too tender to take a long marination. The steak-
mushroom combination also makes a fantastic salad either placed on top
of or tossed with arugula and tomatoes—or, in fact, almost any other
vegetable you like.
An outdoor grill adds lovely flavor to this, but if you don’t have one,
a stovetop grill pan is the next best alternative. They are inexpensive and
easy to use, with the resulting char resembling grilled meat.
You can make this as hot and spicy as you wish. Mixed peppercorns,
available at most supermarkets, are somewhat milder than straight black
peppercorns. This sliced steak is terrific as a salad topper or served with
an assortment of grilled vegetables.
You cannot imagine a more flavorful “pot roast” than this brisket. The
onions seep into the meat during the slow braise and melt into the most
delicious gravy you can imagine.
A mixed grill has been a traditional lunch in men’s clubs for generations
but is rarely found on menus today. It can have kidneys and sausages
added to the mix as well as the meats I use in this recipe. It is often
served with a bowl of grainy mustard and some sour pickles. If you
don’t have an outdoor grill, a stovetop grill pan can be used, but you will
most likely have to cook the various ingredients in batches.
A little Tex-Mex twist to the classic burger elevates it up and away from
the bun and fries. You can make both the burgers and the salsa as hot or
as mild as you wish by adjusting the amount of fresh chiles you add.
This is a dish that you will want to make every month of the year. If you
don’t have a stovetop grill pan, please get one. Of course, they don’t
impart the scent of burning wood or charcoal to the meat, but they mark
the meat beautifully and make it possible to grill all year round. This
recipe works well with pork chops, too.
Liver is one of those meats that people either love or hate. No one likes it
when it’s overcooked, tough, and dry, but if you cook it carefully and
quickly, liver is tender and mildly flavored. With the accent of sweet red
onions it becomes a “can I have seconds” kind of dish.
Generally a leg of lamb is butterflied for grilling, and if you cook a small
one, the whole leg can be grilled. I prefer roasting in a very hot oven for
the first 15 minutes and then turning down the temperature to finish
cooking. This recipe can be used for larger legs of lamb; roasting
requires about 22 minutes per pound for rare or until a meat thermometer
registers the degree of doneness you desire.
If you don’t want to make the ginger sauce, mix some chopped fresh
herbs (any combination you like) with the olive oil and rub into the meat
instead. The herbs alone will add a hint of freshness to the juicy, deeply
flavored lamb.
Lamb and eggplant are two well-known partners in Greek cooking, and
this recipe is an undemanding one that seals the marriage. Grilling makes
it a warm-weather dish, but the lamb can also be roasted (see here) so
quickly and effortlessly that it begs to be made year-round. Both the meat
and the compote can be served at room temperature.
Here is another lamb recipe that is scented with the flavors of Greece—
fennel, feta, olive oil, mint, and oregano (if you can find it, Greek
oregano has wonderful qualities of its own). This is a light and beautiful
dish that works well as both a weekday dinner and a “company’s
coming” sensation.
In recent years, braised lamb shanks have become the go-to comfort
food. They are meaty, flavorful, and easy to cook. You can put them
together in the morning and go about your day while they simmer away.
Then, dinner is on the table in minutes.
Free-range pork has a much richer flavor and deeper texture than
commercially raised pork. The walnuts and walnut oil add a unique taste
that marries well with the pork. This recipe is a wonderful Sunday
supper or dinner party dish that can be served with more sautéed Swiss
chard on the side.
What could be easier than throwing a few chops on the grill? Nothing
that I know of, but I do like to take a little extra time to brine the meat in
a salty-herby mix. This tenderizes the meat and adds some flavor. The
salsa keeps well for a few days, covered and refrigerated, and can be
used with almost any type of meat or fish.
Only the French would have thought to glaze meat with cheese! The
chops must be fully cooked before being glazed, and the glaze should be
golden brown and bubbly as the chops come to the table.
Who thinks of spareribs in the middle of winter? With this recipe you
will, although you can also slow-roast these on the grill in the summer.
You can easily vary the spices for the rub using any that appeal to you,
but always add a little heat by including ground chiles or cayenne. The
heat sinks into the ribs and turns them into a tantalizing lick-your-fingers
dish.
4 pounds spareribs
1 tablespoon ground dried chiles, such as ancho
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1½ teaspoons black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
Place the spareribs on a rimmed baking sheet.
Combine the ground chiles, cumin, black pepper, salt, cinnamon, and cayenne in a
small mixing bowl until well blended. Using your hands, coat both sides of the ribs
with the spice rub. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate at room temperature for 1
hour or in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours. If refrigerated, bring to room temperature
before roasting.
Preheat the oven to 300°F.
Unwrap the ribs and cover with aluminum foil, taking care to seal it all around.
Place in the preheated oven and roast until the ribs are completely cooked through and
almost falling off the bone, about 2½ hours. Remove from the oven and serve, with
plenty of napkins.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving: calories 711, carbohydrates 2 g, fiber 1 g, protein 52 g, fat 54 g, sodium
746 mg, sugar 0 g
Poultry
You have to think a bit ahead to make this chicken, but it is well worth
the time. You will get moist, juicy meat and unbelievably crisp skin. I
like to put a couple of lemon halves in the pan for the last 15 minutes and
then squirt some hot lemon juice on the meat when I serve it.
1 (3½-pound) chicken
Salt
Rinse the chicken under cold running water and pat it dry. Generously coat the
exterior with salt—all of the skin should be covered.
Place the salted chicken in a shallow bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and place in
the refrigerator for 48 hours.
About 1 hour before you’re ready to roast, preheat the oven to 450°F. Remove
the chicken from the refrigerator and set it aside to come to room temperature.
About 30 minutes before roasting, place a small roasting pan in the oven to heat it
up.
Uncover the chicken, push off any remaining salt, and carefully pat the skin dry.
Place a rack in the roasting pan and then place the salted chicken on the rack,
breast-side up. Roast until the chicken is cooked through and the skin is golden brown
and very crisp, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes
before carving. Serve.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving: calories 451, carbohydrates 0 g, fiber 0 g, protein 52 g, fat 26 g, sodium
735 mg, sugar 0 g
Pesto-Roasted Chicken
SERVES 4
1 (3½-pound) chicken
2 cups fresh sheep’s milk ricotta
⅓ cup Pesto (recipe follows)
Salt and pepper
⅔ cup unsalted butter, melted
1 lemon
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Rinse the chicken under cold running water and pat dry. Place it on a clean
cutting board.
Combine the ricotta with the pesto, beating to blend completely. Taste and, if
necessary, season with salt and pepper to taste.
Using your fingertips, carefully push back the skin from both sides of the chicken
breast to loosen it from the flesh. Working downward, push your fingertips into the leg
to loosen the skin around the thigh and leg on both sides. Then, working with just a
small handful of the ricotta mixture at a time, scoop it up and begin patting it over the
flesh wherever you have loosened the skin. You should end up with a smooth, even
layer of ricotta under the skin.
Place the melted butter in a small bowl. Using a zester, remove the zest from the
lemon and add it to the butter. Cut the lemon in half crosswise and place it in the
cavity of the chicken.
Pull the chicken legs up and against the body and tie the ends of the legs together
with kitchen twine. Lift the wing tips up and tuck them under the chicken. Using a
pastry brush, lightly coat the exterior of the chicken with the lemon-scented butter and
season with salt and pepper to taste.
Place the chicken, breast-side up, on a rack in a small roasting pan and transfer to
the preheated oven. Roast, basting frequently with the lemon-scented butter, until the
skin is golden brown, the ricotta has puffed somewhat, and a meat thermometer
inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 160°F, about 45 minutes. Remove the
chicken from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes before carving. Serve.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving: calories 622, carbohydrates 7 g, fiber 0 g, protein 59 g, fat 43 g, sodium
511 mg, sugar 1 g
Pesto
MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS
Chicken thighs work well on the grill because they have more fat than
the ubiquitous chicken breasts and, when cooked, are juicier and far
more flavorful. If you don’t have an outdoor grill, this recipe can be
made year-round using a stovetop grill pan. The marinade also works
with pork, shrimp, or turkey, and the relish is great with almost anything
you can imagine, from roasts to barbecue.
Jicama-Cucumber Relish
MAKES ABOUT 2¼ CUPS
Company coming? Put this wonderful recipe together early in the day
and pop it in the oven while drinks are served. You’ll have dinner on the
table in minutes without spending much time in the kitchen at all.
If Swiss chard is not available, use spinach or kale, and the goat
cheese can be replaced with any soft cheese you like.
Jerk Chicken
SERVES 6
This is a super dish for entertaining, as the little parcels can be put
together in advance and baked just before serving. In that case, make the
parcels from parchment paper, as it is a bit more attractive at the table
than foil. This recipe can also be used with firm white fish, such as
halibut.
This dish has all the flavors of Southeast Asian cooking without the
work of making an authentic curry. If you choose to use it, the toasted
flaked coconut will add a touch of sweetness and crunch to offset the
heat. The chutney offers a cooling element, and the vivid green makes an
inviting contrast to the vibrant orange curry. Steamed Cauliflower
“Couscous” (here) would make a fabulous base for the curry as it would
absorb much of the tasty sauce.
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts and/or thighs, cut into bite-
size pieces
Salt
Cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon clarified butter (see here), ghee, or unsalted butter
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 teaspoons hot curry powder
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 cup chicken stock (here) or low-sodium chicken broth, plus more if
needed
½ cup unsweetened coconut milk
½ cup sliced water chestnuts
1 cup thawed and well-drained frozen chopped spinach
3 tablespoons toasted coconut flakes, for optional garnish
¼ cup Cilantro Chutney (recipe follows), optional
Season the chicken with salt and cayenne pepper to taste.
Heat the clarified butter in a large, nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Add the
chicken and cook, stirring frequently, just until it begins to color, about 4 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, remove the chicken from the pan and set aside.
Add the onion, garlic, curry powder, and turmeric to the pan, stirring to combine.
Cook, stirring constantly, just until the onion has wilted, about 3 minutes.
Return the chicken to the pan and add the stock and coconut milk. Taste and, if
necessary, add additional salt and cayenne. Stir in the water chestnuts and spinach,
cover, and cook until the chicken has cooked through and the sauce has thickened,
about 12 minutes.
Remove from the heat and serve, sprinkled with the toasted coconut flakes and
the chutney passed on the side, if desired.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (includes 1 tablespoon chutney): calories 279, carbohydrates 11 g, fiber 3
g, protein 25 g, fat 15 g, sodium 149 mg, sugar 3 g
Cilantro Chutney
MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS
Although terrific on the dinner table, this turkey breast is perfect for out-
of-hand snacking at any time of the day. The herb coating adds just the
right amount of zesty flavor to the meat. If you are used to supermarket
turkey, you can expect heritage turkey to have deeper flavor and darker
meat.
This dish takes no time and little effort to put together, but it is
nonetheless delicious. The combination of textures and flavors takes this
dish far, far away from the standard Thanksgiving bird. If you don’t
have homemade tapenade on hand—which you should—a commercially
prepared version will work just fine.
These meatballs are scented with two Italian favorites, basil and cheese,
but you can easily change their flavor by substituting herbs and/or spices
that reflect other cultures. If you are not a fan of heat, just eliminate the
cayenne and you will still have very tasty meatballs. Whatever you do,
just remember to match the flavors of the tomato sauce to the flavors of
the meat.
This is a light dish to serve any time of the year. If you are not a fan of
salmon—or have had too many salmon dinners this month—use any
other meaty fish you like; halibut or grouper would make a more than
acceptable substitute.