series of guide lines 1” apart across the entire board, as indicated on the plan for the bow and stern pieces. Line No. 0 repre- sents the upper surface of the base plank in the mould. Now, following the plan, lay out the contour of the bow piece and cut it out, Lay this on top of the board prepared for th stern piece, then trace the outlin and cut out the stern piece, On these pieces indieate the location of cross sections No. 1 and No. 2, also 14 and No. 13, as shown. Prepare two cleats about 3” x 12” and drill these to take serews, to use amber these lines choring the end pieces to the back- bone in assembling the mottld, Preparation of cross sections No. 210 No. 14 is next. ‘These also are built of glued sections of 6" and 8” planks as may he necessary to se eure the proper area out of which to ent each form. Since both ends of the canoe are alike in form and size, sections No. 2 to No, 7 duplicate sections No. 9 to No. 14, The center section, No. 8, has no duplicate, Lay these out similarly to the bow and stern pieces. In the plans we have shown sections No, 2 and No. 3 in full. ‘The remaining sections are shown in half plan. ‘Therefore, in laying these out, do one side first then reverse the meas lay out the other half, tions No. 2 to No. 7 have been com- pleted and cut out, they may be used to trace the outline of sections No. 9 to No. 14. Now prepare four separate pieces, two of which are respectively the right and left halves of section 1; the remaining two constitute sec~ tion No, 15. Drill each of these and countersink for flat head screws. Fasten them in place on either side of the bow and stern pieces. Be sure to check carefully with the plan 620 SSS 1d mould, show. of ending ships at end pince, SSS in order not to have the piece up- side-down, Assembly of Mould To assemble the mould a sections in place on the base plank Crawl undemeath and. screw them fast with 334” screws. Set the back- hone in place in the row of slots in the eross sections, and, with the two cleats, firmly fasten the backbone to the tongue of the end pieces, set the various cross Next we come to the mould strips. For these you will need about 400 lineal feet of white pine dressed 74” square and in 16’ lengths. This will have to be clear lumber so that it will bend to the mould form without breaking. Steaming usually is not necessary for hending these strips to the miould, Tf any should break, or if you are unable to get full 16° lengths, they may be lap jointed at ‘one of the ‘midship cross sections. Glue will make a strong joint, but it is also possible to hold the joint with the screw that secures the strip to the cross section The first two strips are applied tight against either side of the back- bone a as see: tions No. 1 and No, 15, Drill and countersink for a 134” No. 8 FHLB. screw at each cross section, Fasten these strips in place as far as sece tions No. 3 and No. 13. With a small plane taper the ends extend- ing beyond sections No, 2 and No. 14 so that the strips finish off flush with the face of the end pieces. Drill and serew these ends The next twvo strips extend from section No, 2 to No, 14 and fit in the notch along the gunwale line at the bottom of each cross. section, Apply by starting at the center and working towards the ends. ‘The next two strips extend the full length of the mould, outside the cross sections and just above the last strips so that their edges touch, Here you will undoubtedly encouns ter your first difficulty in bending the Strip to lie flat against the edges of the cross sections and take the double curve downward and in tom wards the ends. A good sized ad- Justable monkey wrench is a simple twisting lever which can be fitted htly to the strip and held with your knee while you drill and eoun- tersink for the screws and fasten the strip in plac you get the strip curved is the ends, gauge ly and saw off the end with a lon mal cut to get flat hearing against the end pieces, The end may then be drilled and serewed firmly in place. ling, cevising and sailing is available. theowgh the American Canoe Association, 67 St. Clair Place, New York, N-Y. This Association canoeists. It extends its cooperation solely for the benefit of the sport. All the Assoc es is that you enclose with your inquiry a. stamped, se (dressed eavelope— Tae Eorroe. Porcuas HonnonaryCanoe struction of this canoe we dis- cessed in part the instalation of the planking. We begin the descrip- tion here by giving further informa tion on the planking of the structure. When the four planks have been applied on each side, the ends are pretty well closed in, Dut only the bot- tom amidship is covered. Apply the next plank at the gunwale line amid- ship and fit i¢ where it makes a long diagonal joint with the lowest side plank, This gunwale plank, or sheer plank, is fitted about 34" ‘from the unwale Tine to leave room for the Fabbetied ealge uf the outwale strip. The outwale strip finishes fush with the level of the inwale strip. See that the point of the long diagonal taper, where this plank joins the one above, does not come in the space between ‘ovo ribs, Tt would then be left un- supported and subject to ensy break age. If the point happens to fall in this location, eut it off midway of a rib and, when fitting the next plank, ccut a notch to fill this gap. Fitting the Planks From this point on, it is a case of fiting inthe planks to gradually close up all gaps. The accuracy of cuts are fssured) Hf an assistant. presses the plank into place while you erav ume emneath to marke atong the edge of adjoining planks between the ribs Clamps may be used advantageously until the last piece of planking is ted on the extreme curve of the bike ‘Then you will have to depend on your assistant not allowing the plank 0 slip whil it, When cutting the concave curves in the l: ‘the preceding article on the con- MayJUNE, 1986 Building at Home This the concluding article, in a series of three, which describes the construction of a canoe according to A.C. A. standards. W. YAN B. pieces of planking which lie next to the gunwale at the ends, wateh the xgrain carefully and cut from each di- ection towards the deepest part of the curve to avoid a split. AXcritical inspection of the hull will undoubtedly diselose gaps and rough= ssmall piece of plank hi to he spliced in, This is especially trae where the first two planks were drawn down to the stems, Plastic wood will prove a fine filler for these places. the hull for imperfectly , or for protruding tack heads, With a file, or coarse and then fine sandpaper wrapped around a block of cork or soft wood, smooth all rough spots ow, trint off the stem and the ends of the ribs flush with the inwale. ‘The file may he used to smooth the joint ‘of the oak decks with the inwa ‘The thwarts are next to be installed. Location of Thwarts Seats are not to be used ; therefore, the location of the thwarts is impor tant since they must serve not only structural braces to the hull but as supports for the kneeling paddler. The middle thwart should be located three ribs astern of the exact center. ‘This is about 1034” back of the center in this canoe, The forward thwart is then located three ribs astern of the -way point between the middle ness where It is a trim craft and worth a tryout by craftsme CLAUSSEN thwart and the extreme bow, ‘The distance between the two thwarts is, The stem thwart is located about where the front edge of a stern seat normally would be. This. is 4014" back of the middle thwart. This, spacing will not only provide ample structural bracing but will enable you to properly use the thwarts as sup- ports for every possible combination of one man oF tandem paddling, and works oust well for sailing, also, In the Iatter ease, the stern thwart is made wide enough for a 234” hole ta take the mast. A mast-step is secured to the bottom directly under it. The stern thus becomes the bow when the canoe is under sail, ‘The leeboards are clamped on very close to the middle thwart, and the sailor handles his eraft from a comfortable position seated fon the bottom and reclining against the remaining thwart. The Thwarts ‘The thwarts may be the standard shaped oak or ash, but a broader spruce thwart is Tighter in weight, amply strong, and more comfortable for a paddling support. The type shown in. the photographs are. 3” wide, 134” thick, with the top edges rounded just enough for comfort ‘The under side is hollowed with a gouge, except at the extreme ends where they are bolted to the inwales. aFim sary soars Sond. Mould completed and rosdy for bonding ribs over portage efficiently, yet large enough to permit of cruising with light daf- fle and two paddlers; large enough for one-man sailing with a 40 to 30 sq, ft, Tateen sail; and for recreational paddling with two paddlers and a passenger. The beam or extreme width amidship will be 33”, and the depth amidship 12”, The ends will not et high as th he similar to a guide's model, in o Jer that wind will not bother too much in paddling. ‘The bottom amidship will be relatively flat steadiness and shallow draft sides will have of tumble-home (inward curve the waterline) to give the canoe an easy roll and make her compara- dry when heeled over. The Keel line’ will not be perfectly at, Dut will have about one-hali inch ‘rocker" in its length which, com- ined with carrying out the fullness of the body lines well towards the how and stern, will make her a good moderate amount hove ft in a seaway Now let as get down to the busi- ness of buildi No fane terms will be employed. We are just two canoeing enthusiasts mect- ing in the workshop, in the garage, or the basement where the eanoe is, to be built and where we are certain that there Targe enough to permit it to be taken out alter completion! “The job is not easy. If one canoe, only, is to be built, the tot not be less than the average ret price. All that may be said in favor ‘of the idea is that you will have the satisfaction of building it with your own hands. Howev you are fone of a group contemplating the construction ot several canoes from the same mould, then the saving in Group work simplifies much of the work and permits of the production of a etter canoe. One man can do the are doors or windows cost will be considerable as ee thor of this escrito th ‘Asociation, His © years of building, racing and si od WP the Hudson, images found Manhattan tiland. in strong ww Yor Harbor and navigating Lite fle Hell Gate In 1930 Mr Van 8, dad tat by this rience coves 35 ting, paddling Claussen made wte rom Ely, Minne radian Border, o¢ ' coleador of Boy Scouts. He took fips thru the waters of the Ad tondects, Ar Canoving Adviser of the American Red ‘Cros, the Boy Scouts of America ond the Girl Scouts, he has gained valuable nition. Hla hat written scores of at= cles on convo safely and technique ted an eee ton Corcoina Those qu cate that the outhor 1 wall Sited to ve_an authentic description af tow building which moy be. ushesi fetingly followed by craftsmen a job alone, but once having had a little experience he will wish often for additional assistance, Built Over a Mould Canoes are built over a mould which reproduces exactly the inside area of the hull, This mould has to be perfectly true and, although of frameworks construction, it needs to be strong and rigid so that the cedar ribs and the oak stems ean be bent to shape. In factory work the mould is solid, not a framework. It is cov- ered with sheet metal so that the nails are automatically clinched while planking, ‘The field mould, on the contrary, is composed of strips as shown in photograph No. 2; the hails are clinched by hand after the gh hull has been lifted from the mould ‘The field mould consists of a stout hase plank to which is secured the how and stern end pieces, fifteen sctions spaced one foot apart, and a keel plank or backbone, Since the eanoe is wo be built over this mould, itis erected a canoe turned upside-down on two work horses, as. shown in photo- graph No. 1, ‘Twenty-six longitw- ‘inal strips are then applied so ths the completed mould looks like that in photograph No. 2. For the base of the mould sect a perfectly straight yellow pine plank, 2” x 8” x 14’, and dress t x6" x 136", Any warp in the plank will render it useless. Prepare the ends of this plank as shown in the plan and mark it off for the loc tion of thirteen cross sections, nun bering these successively No. 2 tc No. 14. Ateach of these marks dril two holes through the plank with « No, 3 twist drill and countersinl these on the under side of the plan e376" No. 12 fla head bright wood serews to hold thi the position of These holes The bas cross sections in place. Portar Hoancra