SOUTHEAST ASIA MARCH 2019

A Sky-High
View Of
Bangkok

IT LIST 2019
THE BEST NEW HOTELS
SINGAPORE S$7.90 / HONG KONG HK$43
THAILAND THB175 / INDONESIA IDR50,000
MALAYSIA MYR18 / VIETNAM VND85,000
MACAU MOP44 / PHILIPPINES PHP240
BURMA MMK35 / CAMBODIA KHR22,000
BRUNEI BND7.90 / LAOS LAK52,000
 SHIZUOKA
DREAMING
Anchored by majestic Mt. Fuji, sated by Shimizu Port,
and chilled out by the Izu Peninsula, Shizuoka Prefecture
is a beautiful, bountiful region for a roadtrip. You’ll find
romance at every turn; just hop in the car and drive.

THERE ARE FEW THINGS MORE ROMANTIC than a roadtrip. The

sense of exploration, charting your own course together,
sharing a unique adventure determined only by the two of
you—it brings a couple closer together. And when you do it in
one of the most romantic settings on earth, oh the memories!
Sitting pretty between Tokyo and Osaka, Shizuoka is
teeming with bountiful produce, beautiful flowers, fresh
seafood. This coastal region is famous for hot springs, its
rolling tea plantations that produce the most green tea of
any region, and its wonderful wasabi—
Japan’s wasabi cultivation started here.
Everyone knows the superstar of the region is
mystical Mt. Fuji, but a lesser known secret is
its glorious early-bloom sakura: kawazu
sakura draws savvy visitors as soon as
February to celebrate the pink blossoms.
From Tokyo, set your sights on Mt. Fuji
and head straight for it. You’ll find yourself on
the Izu Skyline, a scenic expressway running
along the eastern ridgeline. It feels like an
otherworldly movie set, especially if the
weather cooperates and you can see Sagami
and Suruga Bays in addition to towering
Fujisan. You’ll pull over multiple times for
ever-more fantastic photos—especially when
you get to Izu Panorama Park and its thrilling
ropeway skywalk atop Mt. Katsuragi.
Come back down to earth but, perhaps,
keep up the daredevil spirit at Shirahama
 ADVERTORIAL

Beach in Shimoda. There’s a reason it’s considered the best CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Okuoikojo Station above Sesso Lake;
in Izu: crystal-clear waters, white-powder sands, world- wedding photos under Mt. Fuji; the region is the green-tea capital
class resorts, gorgeous oceanic panoramas. And, as a bonus, of Japan; eat all the sushi you can in Shizuoka city; Fujisan Hongu
Sengen Taisha Shrine; driving the Izu Skyline.
this southerly town is also a mecca for surfing and
windsurfing. Yes, Shizuoka is full of surprises!
Linger awhile down here on the Izu Peninsula. Though it
has the most ryokans in the country, you’ll find quiet nooks,
peace and romance among all the inviting ryokans. Whether
you onsen-hop or check into one resort for an extended stay,
it’ll be easy to soak up the tranquility.
Back up north in Fuji’s shadow, now’s the time to don
your finest and take some wedding photos. From any
direction and at any time of year, the scene is rendered even
more romantic when it looks like you’re receiving the
blessing of this sacred mountain. But one particularly
coveted spot for pictures is Fujisan Hongu Sengen Taisha
Shrine in Fujinomiya. This is the lead shrine of more than
1,300 shrines in Japan dedicated to the Princess of Blossoms
also known as the Goddess of Mt. Fuji. You and your families
will cherish these pictures for a lifetime.
Where to next? This is a journey from mountain to sea
and back again. You won’t want to miss Shizuoka city. We’re

not sure why Shimizu Port isn’t better known the

world over, the tuna hauled in here is of such high
quality the locals call Shizuoka the “City of Tuna”.
Visit the morning fishmongers, then get to literally
any sushi restaurant in the city. You won’t regret it.
A bit inland you’ll find shockingly pretty Sesso
Lake. This turquoise blue waterway in the heart of
the hills changes color depending on the season,
light and even the daily current. Canoeing and
kayaking is beyond beautiful in autumn. And high
on a bridge above is Okuoikojo Station, an
unstaffed railway station that provides a scenic
viewing point for the natural surrounds. Not that
this next-level beauty will even surprise you by
this point on your Instagram-hit of a trip.

Explore Shizuoka
exploreshizuoka.com
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Friendships create business
at ILTM Asia Pacific.
If you’re the finest luxury travel supplier or buyer,
you’ll find both here.
Apply to attend in 2019.
Don’t miss your opportunity to discover and
be discovered. Register for ILTM Asia Pacific
27 - 30 May 2019 at iltm.com/asiapacific

ILTM brings together the finest luxury travel professionals to create the places,
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2019 2019 2019 2019 2019 2019 2019
 CONTENTS

March features


Fit For A Raja
Rajasthan is littered
with forts and castles
of the maharajas who
ruled the region for
centuries. Rachna
Sachasinh finds
luxurious renewal
projects that manage
to conjure the
community spirit of far
humbler abodes.


My Kind of Paradise
We all dream of
powder-soft, palm-
fringed beaches and
crystal-clear seas, but
in Fiji, these are par
96 for the course.
Michael Paterniti finds
84 76 out what it takes to
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : B R I A N G U I D O ; R A N VAS N AGAU R & M E H R A N GA R H M U S EU M T R U ST ; S E A N F E N N ESSY

elevate a stay from

great to truly mind-
blowing. Photographed
by Sean Fennessy


City of Angels, Land
of Hotels In Los
Angeles, a handful of
beloved properties—
some new, others
from Hollywood’s
glory days—are woven
so deeply into the
social fabric, you
couldn’t imagine the
city without them.
By Alex Bhattacharji.
Photographed by
Brian Guido

ON THE COVER
Enjoying the sunset in a Pool Sky villa at Rosewood Bangkok. Bathing suit, Vilebrequin.
Photographed by Scott A. Woodward. Model: Kiana Treaster @WM Management.
Stylist: Saranya Ariyakul. Hair and makeup: Thapakornbhat Yu-vanich.
Photographer’s assistant: Jakarpong Chumneankul. TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019

CONTENTS
19 Reasons to Travel Now Two
parties to celebrate Thailand’s
rescued elephants; take to Asia’s
waterways on these boutique
cruises; a historic lakeside lodge
in Hangzhou; and more.
22 Touch the Sky Follow the well-
trod pilgrim path to Vietnam’s
most spiritual peak and spend a
few nights at Yen Tu mountain’s
new designer resort.
28 Royal Revival This inspired
restaurant in Luang Prabang
offers contemporary takes on
traditional royal Lao cuisine by
an award-winning Bangkok chef.
31 Test the Waters After an
extensive renovation, The Datai
Langkawi has reopened with a
sharp focus on luxury, wellness
and learning to commune with
nature.
38

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
35 Higher Ground Rosewood
Bangkok opens this month, and
we’ve got an exclusive first look
at the newest luxury hotel in the
Thai capital.
38 Modern Medina The free-
spirited North African port of
Tangier is shining anew with
hip hangouts and collaborative
design boutiques from a new
generation.
41 It List: The Best New (and
Reborn) Hotels in the World
Every year, we head out in
search of the finest new (and
newly reimagined) properties
around the globe, from far-flung
islands to boutique city stays
and lush mountain lodges. We’ve
highlighted 19 of our favorites—
find the full collection for 2019
at tandl.me/it-list.
59
IN EVERY ISSUE
T+L Digital 10
Contributors 11
The Conversation 12
Editor’s Note 14
Deals 72
Wish You Were Here 106
Guide
59 Style Your Stay We’ve sorted
this year’s Hotels Guide by the
way you travel, whether that’s
for work, fun, romance or a
family escape. With everything
from decadent beach villas to
practical business hotels, let
this be your booking bible for
your next trip away.
F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F G A L E R I E C O N I L ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E G R E AT M A D R A S ; C O U R T E S Y O F PA S T E L U A N G P R A B A N G ; L E I G H G R I F F I T H S
28 22
T+ L D I G I TA L

THIS MONTH ON TR AVEL ANDLEISUREASIA.COM
SYDNEY’S HOTEL BOOM
From charming boutiques to
big-name five-stars, an array
of top-flight new stays will
ensconse you in the hottest
neighborhoods of Australia’s
most famous city.
VIETNAM THROUGH
THE LENS
An intrepid photographer
looks back on years of
traveling through and living in
the diverse, ever-changing
landscapes of Vietnam.
12 BUCKET LIST–
WORTHY RESORTS IN
THE MALDIVES
Stunning new getaways that
up the ante and provide the
perfect excuse to run away to
a dreamy Maldivian isle.
+
LOOKOUT
Canggu is the Bali of your
dreams; India has some
truly amazing street art;
how to make the most of
your long layover; a luxe
new cruise in Halong Bay;
the latest travel deals
and much more.
travelandleisureasia.com

F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F O V O L O ; A A R O N J O E L S A N T O S ; C O U R T E S Y O F C H E VA L B L A N C E R A N D H E L I

DOWNLOAD US FOLLOW US KEEP UP WITH US

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MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM


1 2
Scott
Woodward
P H O TO G R A P H ER
“Higher Ground”
Page 35
— —
“Rosewood Bangkok is like a
private manor: sophisticated,
1
exclusive and intimate. My
favorite location is Moon Gate
at the entrance to the modern
Chinese restaurant, Nan Bei.
This circular wooden portal
looks into a glass-enclosed
atrium filled with 1,600 lights
and 600 suspended golden
magpies, and was inspired by
the Chinese tale of the Weaver
Girl and the Cowherd,” he
says. “Fashion shoots bring
together so many different
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F S C O T T A . W O O D WA R D ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H A M I L E E V E L L U ; C O U R T E S Y O F R A C H N A S A C H A S I N H ; C O U R T E S Y O F C L A I R E B O O B B Y E R
creative partners—the whole
is always greater than the
sum of its parts, and
this cooperative spirit is one of
the things that I love most
about my job.” Instagram:
2
@iamscottawoodward.
3 4
Rachna
Sachasinh
W R I T ER
“Modern Medina”
and “Fit for a Raja”
Pages 38 and 76
— A former guidebook-writer on
The best stays in Rajasthan
are refitted heritage manors
and castles. “Ranvas Nagaur
is in a completely unknown
11th-century palace and fort
compound. The staff are
3
flawless. The town feels like a
medieval city, and in the full,
labyrinthine market and the
narrow streets flanked by
mud buildings, I felt I had
slipped back in time,” she
says. “By the firepit at
Lakshman Sagar, I noshed on
aloo-spinach tikkis, and thali
of millet roti, foraged spiced
greens and daal, tamarind
eggplant, and local mango
achaar—pickles fermented in
terracotta pots.” Instagram:
@rachna_sachasinh.
4 
CONTRIBUTORS
Shamilee
Vellu
W R I T ER
“Style Your Stay”
Page 59
We asked our writers for their
favorite family, millennial,
business and romantic hotels
in the region. “The challenge
was keeping to three per
country!” Vellu says. In her
hometown Singapore, she
gives top marks to: “Capella,
on Sentosa Island; it always
feels like a tropical getaway,
even when I’m working. And I
can’t wait to see the new face
of our grand dame, Raffles.”
Best hospitality trend? “More
hotels are empowering their
staff with a small budget, so
they can surprise and delight
guests independently, whether
it’s buying an impromptu
birthday gift or a pastry from
a favorite local bakery.”
Instagram: @shamvellu.
Claire
Boobbyer
W R I T ER
“Royal Revival”
Page 28
—
Laos, Boobbyer has been
visiting the country since
2005. “What impresses me
most at the new Paste Laos in
Luang Prabang is chef Bee’s
careful consideration of royal
chef Phia Sing’s original
recipes but with tweaks that
update his ancient plates for
the modern palate, and
enhance them with nuanced
flavors. My favorite is the sour
river-fish soup: the slips of
tilapia are so tender, and the
sharp, peppery taste of the
tamarind creates a perfect
contrast,” she says. For casual,
“get sin dat (local barbecue
cooked on a table grill) washed
down with a cold Beerlao.”
Instagram: @claireboobbyer.
T H E C O N V E R S AT I O N

#TLASIA
Breakfast at Pullman Luang

FROM OCEAN ESCAPES TO CITY STAYS, WE’VE LOVED SEEING THE

HOTELS THAT YOU’VE BEEN CHECKING INTO AROUND ASIA.
Prabang. By @wheremartawent.

You may want to check you’ve packed your noise-canceling

headphones on your next trip to Bali. This year, Garuda
Indonesia announced a series of ad-hoc live acoustic sessions
on board its Jakarta to Denpasar flights. Aiming to attract a
more millennial crowd, the in-flight concerts will be
performed by up-and-coming young Indonesian musicians.
Though the sets last just 10 to 15 minutes, the idea was
largely criticized by Garuda’s fans, who felt the forced concerts
would be an invasion of their personal time—and ears.
Surprisingly, this concept is not new. Here are a few more The Conrad Maldives Rangali
Island blues. By @andredemello.
in-flight jam sessions that have made airwaves in the past.

American Airlines was a pioneer in

promoting live music high in the sky—in 1971
the company installed a piano bar in every India’s Jet
plane’s coach lounge. Airways
suspended five
of its cabin crew
in 2016 after
British band Jamiroquai
they allowed
set the original Guinness Flower power at Seminyak’s
Bollywood
World Record of the Aleva Villas. By @themerriedlife.
superstar Sonu
highest concert in the En route to Sydney
Nigam to belt
sky, when it launched its from Brisbane in 2014,
out one of his
album High Times the cast of Broadway
hits through the
during a flight between musical The Lion King
in-flight
Munich and Athens at broke into a
intercom.
35,000 feet. The record spontaneous
was later broken by performance of the
James Blunt, who song “Circle of Life.”
performed at 42,000
feet in 2010.

Last year, Jetstar Japan and

Joysound cheekily announced the
launch of karaoke flights, complete
with maracas and tambourines, and
earplugs for begrudging passengers.
Thankfully, it was all just a big
April Fools’ joke.
Skyline snacking at Aman Tokyo.
By @neverendingtraveller.
SHARE AN INSTAGRAM PHOTO BY USING THE
#TLASIA HASHTAG, AND IT MAY BE FEATURED
IN AN UPCOMING ISSUE. FOLLOW
@TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

EDITOR’S NOTE

The Garden
Lounge at
The Murray.

FROM MY TRAVELS
Among our editorial team,
we can proudly say that, in
the past year, we’ve been to
eight of the hotels and
resorts on this year’s It List,
and it’s safe to say we were
wowed at each of them. I
checked in to The Murray
(niccolohotels.com) in Hong
let me
ELCOME TO OUR 2019 HOTELS ISSUE, Kong, a revamp of a 1960s
take your bag. You’ll need to have a architectural icon in that city
seat so we can fill you in on all that is and was impressed with how
new around Asia, and there is a lot. designers adapt to the
constraints found with any
Long gone are the days where a hotel such development. That, and
or a resort is only a place to lay your weary head. In some instances I now know what OVT means.
around the region, the address is the destination for a long weekend. Old Valuable Tree, in case
Think about it: a beyond-comfortable room; more than one great place you were wondering.
to eat; a fitness center with steam rooms, Jacuzzis and a great pool; and
a world-class spa. You can check in and, yes, never leave.
Central to this month’s issue are the best new hotels on the planet,
including a few stellar entries from Asia. “The It List 2019” (page 41)
highlights 19 properties around the world but the complete collection of
74 can be found at tandl.me/it-list. Among the notable Asian entries are
the Capella Ubud, Six Senses Duxton and Taj Exotica Resort & Spa.
Elsewhere, we stop in at resorts both in Vietnam (“Touch the Sky,”
page 22) and India (“Fit for a Raja,”
page 76) that look to rework the past
and inject them into the present as
comfortable getaways with a difference.
Off in the distant South Pacific,
“My Kind of Paradise” (page 84) tours
F R O M L E F T: I R FA N S A M A R T D E E ; C H R I S T O P H E R K U C WAY

a series of next-level resorts in Fiji

where personal wine fridges await and
pertinent questions come in the form of,
‘Favorite cocktail?’ Admit it, you’re now
glad you took a seat.

@CKucway
chrisk@mediatransasia.com


M A R C H 2 0 1 9 / T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Christopher Kucway
ART DIRECTOR Wannapha Nawayon
DEPUT Y EDITOR Jeninne Lee-St. John
FEATURES EDITOR Eloise Basuki
SENIOR DESIGNER Chotika Sopitarchasak
DIGITAL MEDIA EDITOR Veronica Inveen

REGUL AR CONTRIBUTORS / PHOTOGR APHERS

Cedric Arnold, Kit Yeng Chan, Marco Ferrarese,
Duncan Forgan, Lauryn Ishak, Grace Ma, Morgan Ommer,
Aaron Joel Santos, Scott A. Woodward, Stephanie Zubiri

CHAIRMAN J.S. Uberoi

PRESIDENT Egasith Chotpakditrakul
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Rasina Uberoi-Bajaj

PUBLISHER Robert Fernhout

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SALES DIRECTOR Kin Kamarulzaman
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REGIONAL MANAGER Paul Adams

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Gaurav Kumar

PRODUCTION MANAGER Nuttha Tangpetch
CIRCUL ATION AS SISTANT Yupadee Saebea

TR AVEL+LEISURE (USA)
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Gifford
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, NEWS, LUXURY, ST YLE Meredith Long

MEREDITH PARTNERSHIPS, LICENSING & SYNDICATION

(syndication@meredith.com)
BUSINES S AFFAIRS DIRECTOR Tom Rowland
DIRECTOR, LICENSING OPER ATIONS Richard Schexnider
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jack Livings
E XECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CONTENT MANAGEMENT Paul Ordonez

MEREDITH
CHAIRMAN AND CEO Steve Lacy
PRESIDENT AND COO Tom Harty
CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER Alan Murray
E XECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENTS Brad Elders, Lauren Ezrol Klein

TR AVEL+LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA

VOL. 13, ISSUE 3
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 EXPERIENCE A NEW
LEVEL OF LUXURY

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 REASONS TRAVEL NOW
MARCH 2019

TO
T+L’s monthly selection of trip-worthy places, experiences and events.

A temple
skyline from
the Namthip
rice barge.

no.
1
Go on a sailing sojourn with these
handpicked floating hotels.
They say it’s about the journey, not the destination.
Well aware of this theory, Asia-based curated travel network
Secret Retreats added several new independent luxury vessels to
its Secret Cruises catalogue this year. Here are a few we
can’t wait to jump aboard.

Namthip Luxury Rice Barge, Thailand Ginger Junk, Vietnam Sequoia Yacht, Indonesia
C O U R T E S Y O F S E C R E T R E T R E AT S

Cruise from Bangkok to the former Thai
royal capital, Ayutthaya, in this
remodeled traditional cargo barge with
just two decadently appointed cabins and
a wooden deck with intimate dining area.
secret-retreats.com/namthip; day cruise
for up to four people from Bt120,000;
overnight cruise for up to four people from
Bt150,000, including dinner.
This modernized Indo-Chinese wooden
junk boat takes to the dramatic waters
of Halong Bay as well as quieter Lan Ha
Bay. The ship features 12 spacious,
modern suites with Vietnamese designs,
a terrace restaurant, a relaxing spa and
an on-deck Jacuzzi-pool. secret-retreats.
com/ginger; one-night low-season cruise
from US$231.
Charter this elegant, eco-friendly (there’s
no single-use plastic or palm oil products
on board) private yacht around the seas
of Eastern Indonesia—Komodo,
Sulawesi, the Banda Islands, Raja Ampat
and more. Its three suites will fit up to
six people. secret-retreats.com/sequoia;
one- to two-person sailings from US$5,500
per night. — ELOISE BASUKI

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019


R E A S O N S T O T R AV E L N O W

no.
2
Dragon-boat racing gets a
pachyderm twist in this
fundraiser for Thailand’s Watch the fast and
rescued elephants. furious races from
the riverbank.

You may have noticed that Anantara has a

thing for pachyderms. This month they’re
launching new parties in their honor, to raise
money for the Golden Triangle Elephant
Foundation, a non-profit that rescues the
animals and provides housing, health care and
insurance for the mahouts and their families.
On March 13, Anantara Golden Triangle
Elephant Camp & Resort in Chiang Rai will
host a fête, market and elephant walks. Then,
in Bangkok on the weekend of March 29–31,
dragon-boat racing teams will descend on the
Chao Phraya River for a regatta in special boats
adorned with wooden elephant heads. Ashore,
join a dry-dock rowing competition, or enjoy
an Old Siam–themed Ladies Day, concerts,
champagne tents and more. bangkokriver
festival.com; tickets Bt200 per person, per day; At Anantara
VIP tickets Bt3,000 per person, per day, Golden Triangle
Elephant Camp.
including free-flow drinks and snacks. — E.B.

no.
3
Hangzhou’s heritage temple quarters is
F R O M TO P : C O U RT ESY O F A N A N TA R A ( 2 ) ; C O U RT ESY O F I N L A K E H O ST E L
a hostel you’ll actually want to stay in.
Next to Hangzhou’s UNESCO-listed West Lake, Inlake Hostel is not your
average backpacker bunker. In the historic grounds of a former temple, the
hostel’s rooms are refurbished dormitories, where emperors once stayed on
pilgrimages. The actual temple didn’t survive the pillage of the Cultural
Revolution, but its dormitory was left among the ruins and still maintains
stone images of Buddha and original altars. Now, these dorms (which offer
both private king and twin rooms, plus two six-bunk rooms) provide a stay
steeped in this history; three original scripture verses penned by the Qin
Emperor are preserved at its entrance. The project of a former art director
named Xue Li, the 15 minimalist rooms have wooden accents and custom
furniture that spell more boutique hotel than hostel. The spacious rooms
are awash with Japanese and Scandinavian sensibilities and hit the spot for
design buffs looking for a different experience in this charming cultural city.
inlake-hostel.hangzhouhotel.org; doubles from RMB1,280. — JULIANA LOH


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

 no.
4
Add a once-in-a-lifetime experience
to luxury stays across Asia.
With their Hong Kong and Bangkok properties opening
this month (see page 35 for more on the latter),
Rosewood Hotels have their sights set firmly on Asia;
Guangzhou and Rangoon are also in the pipeline this
year. Channeling their “Sense of Place” mandate, the
boutique hotel group’s 12 Days of Rosewood experience
packages offer chances to explore with local
communities and global personalities.

Hong Kong rosewoodhotels.com/ John Wood and

Here’s a two-stop package
that puts style mavens on
the catwalk. In Hong
Kong, take a behind-the-
scenes visit to the atelier
of local designer Anaïs
Jourden Mak and receive a
bespoke creation by Anaïs;
at Paris Fashion Week, sit
pretty in front-row seats
at the Anaïs Jourden show,
with backstage access.
Accommodations include
two-night stays at both
Rosewood Hong Kong and
Hôtel de Crillon, A
Rosewood Hotel, in Paris,
plus designated culinary
experiences in both cities.
Chef Nak at
Rosewood
Phnom Penh.
C O U RT ESY O F R O S E WO O D ( 2 )
hong-kong; from
HK$738,682 including two
nights in Hong Kong and
two nights in Paris; valid
from April 1, through
February 28, 2020; e-mail
hongkong.reservations@
rosewoodhotels.com.
Phnom Penh
This three-part journey
starts by going back to
school: join John Wood,
founder of literacy charity
Room to Read, and speak
to students in his
foundation’s program.
Next, board the Khmer
Magic Music Bus with
students in his
literacy program.
Phlouen Prim, from
Cambodian Living Arts, as
it spreads traditional
music around the
countryside, plus learn to
play local instruments and
perform a Cambodian folk
dance. Lastly, take part in
a Khmer cooking class
with chef Nak in her
traditional wooden house
on the Mekong. rosewood
hotels.com/phnom-penh;
from US$6,980, including a
four-night stay, through
December 31; e-mail
phnompenh.reservations@
rosewoodhotels.com.
Luang Prabang
Embark on a soulful
journey in the former
royal Laos capital. Start
with a personal treatment
by venerated traditional
healer Mr. Xong, who uses
ancient Hmong herbal
remedies. Take part in a
private meditation session
in a sacred shrine with
tribes, before a culinary
masterclass and royal
Laotian banquet. rosewood
hotels.com/luang-prabang;
from US$5,480, including a
three-night stay; valid
through December 1; book
three months in advance;
e-mail luangprabang@
rosewoodhotels.com.
Sanya
Surfing will debut at the
Tokyo Olympics next year,
and going for gold at the
inaugural competition is
rising Chinese star Xinrui
Wang. Training regularly
in Sanya, home to China’s
best surf breaks, Xinrui is
offering exclusive one-on-
one lessons for guests of
Rosewood Sanya. The surf
pro will bestow a mix of
useful theory and practical
instruction personalized
to each guest’s experience
level, so even beginners
can learn to approach a
wave. rosewoodhotels.com/

one of the most revered sanya; from RMB45,888,

monks in Laos. And go
foraging with Rosewood
Luang Prabang culinary
director Sebastien Rubis,
plus farmers and
members of local hill-
including a three-night
stay, through December 31;
e-mail sanya.
reservations@rosewood
hotels.com. — E.B.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019


CHECKING IN

Touch the Sky

Following the well-trod pilgrim path to Vietnam’s most spiritual peak, Eloise Basuki
spends a few nights at Yen Tu mountain’s new designer resort, a sprawling palace that
honors the mountain’s regal history. PHOTOGRAPHED BY LEIGH GRIFFITHS


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

FROM LEFT: One of the entrances to the 13th-century-style complex; lotus flowers are a common motif used in the Legacy Yen Tu; walls in
the hotel’s waiting area are clad in clay and rice husks. OPPOSITE: The copper effigy of the Enlightened King meditates on Yen Tu’s peak.
IN 300 B.C., A HERMIT MONK named An Ky Sinh
hiked to the top of Yen Tu mountain in search of
eternal life. He came to the right place: More
than 400 varieties of medicinal herbs grow in
these forested hills in northeast Vietnam.
Though An Ky Sinh never found the immortal
mix, up on Yen Tu’s peak, 1,068 meters above
sea level and just an hour from legendary
Halong Bay, he did find enlightenment. Soon,
more spiritual explorers journeyed to the
region, the most significant of whom was King
Tran Nhan Tong. The 13th-century king had
brought harmony to the country after
successfully ousting Mongol invaders, but by
1299 he sought a different kind of peace—he
renounced his throne to embark on a more
spiritual life, and chose sacred Yen Tu as his
new home. Here, crowned with an affectionate
new nickname, “the Enlightened King,” Tran
Nhan Tong launched the first Vietnamese sect
of Buddhism called Truc Lam. The monk built
pagodas, shrines and temples on the mountains
slopes, establishing Yen Tu as an essential
religious site for the country’s Buddhists. These
days, one million pilgrims trek this mountain
every year; during Tet more than 50,000 people
climb to the top each day.
But on this day, a wintry November
afternoon, it’s just me, a few woollen-hat-
wearing nuns and my guide, Camellia Dinh
from Tung Lam, the private development
company that installed the cable cars on Yen Tu
14 years ago. Tung Lam has done more than
just make the mountain more accessible (the
cable cars cut a 30-kilometer hike down to a
15-minute ride). Last year the group developed
a sprawling accommodation complex at
the base, offering pilgrims—and tourists
like me—a place to stay that feels almost
as hallowed as Yen Tu itself: a replica
13th-century palace.
The reverence is a credit to Tung Lam’s
chairman, Bui Dinh Tuan, whose specific
vision for his hotel—that it must reflect the
spirituality of the destination—saw nine
different architects and their designs rejected:
towering glass skyscrapers were too modern in
this ancient land; 600-room monsters lacked
charm and personality. Finally, Tuan was
introduced to Bill Bensley, the Bangkok-based
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019

CHECKING IN
designer who has become hoteliers’ go-to for
resorts that require authentic character.
Bensley’s winning idea turned the former car-
park space into an ode to the Enlightened King:
a traditional village offers US$15 monastery-
like dorms for pilgrims; a central field and vast
pavilion can hold events for up to 8,000 people;
and a 133-room M Gallery hotel, Legacy Yen Tu,
treats guests like royalty in the palatial rooms
of the “king’s residence.” Though the cable car
quickly brings me back down to earth, entering
the hotel still feels like I’m in another world.
This is more than just a property with a sense
of place; it’s a trip back in time.
The final cable car leg that hovers
high above dense bamboo groves
and ancient pine forests is swift,
and nerve-wracking
FROM LEFT: At the Truc Lam meditation center, agarwood incense is lit to purify the soul; seven-vegetable pho at the Legacy's
Tho Quang restaurant; located in the village, Nha Hang Cho Que restaurant is a more casual, diner-style eatery.

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
MY JOURNEY TO the Chua Dong pagoda, the tiny
but venerated copper temple that clutches the
craggy peak of Yen Tu Mountain, has left me
breathless. Granted, the two cable car tracks do
most of the grunt work (the sheer final leg that
hovers high above dense bamboo groves and
ancient pine forests is particularly swift, and
nerve-wracking), but it’s still a steep and
sweaty 900-meter hike to the summit from the
final station. I barely catch my breath admiring
Chua Dong, known as the spiritual home of
Truc Lam, before we start the downward trek
along a rocky trail to say a quick prayer to the
ancient statue of An Ky Sinh, and the towering
copper figure of the meditating Enlightened
King (I’m told he’ll grant you financial success
if you make it up to meet him).
While the trek defeats me—the nuns, of
course, don’t seem to break a sweat—these extra
exertions are intentionally left for the pilgrims’
benefit. “The chairman wanted to keep it a
spiritual experience,” says Markus Hesse,
Legacy Yen Tu’s general manager. “He didnt
want a cable car straight from the bottom to the
top—you’re there in five minutes, take a selfie
and then head back down. He wanted people to
still experience the pilgrimage.” It’s something
that even I, just an observer, can appreciate:
Dinh offers me a sip of the holy water that flows
into the small, mid-mountain Mot Mai temple
built into the rock; I make a blessing at the
incense-clouded Long Tien pagoda; and try my
luck with the king’s effigy, crossing my fingers
for a raise (though I’m enlightened enough in
the ways of the modern magazine industry not
to bet on it). The views itself are worth the trek,
but as my calves begin to cramp I’m thankful
that my room back at the Legacy has been
designed to be a place of respite.
I’m staying in a deluxe room on the upper
floor, which looks over the inner field to the
village and the palace gardens. In spring
highland streams trickle into a moat, and the
bordering trees burst into a golden bloom of
yellow apricot blossoms, one of the ancient
native trees that are found on Yen Tu. My room
is peaceful not just for the watercolor-painting-
view I take in from my balcony, the heavy
wooden doors, or the flickering ceiling lights
set in traditional urns. But also because there’s
no TV. Tuan and Bensley agreed that there was
no need for outside entertainment at a serene
place like this. “We are the first Accor hotel out
of 4,500 to not offer TVs in the rooms,” Hesse
says. “At first I wasn’t sure it was a good idea,
but I haven’t had a single complaint. You’re not
going to come to a place like this and then sit in
your room and watch a movie on HBO.”
Bensley may be famous for his out-of-the-
ordinary designs (a fictitious university–themed
resort on Phu Quoc; a zip line to enter his new
tented camp in Cambodia) but Legacy Yen Tu
feels purposefully, and delightfully, restrained.
The whitewashed palace walls remain
unadorned for the winter moss to decorate
naturally. The curved black roof tiles were
manufactured to match those on the mountain’s
modest pagodas. Obviously, though, restraint
does not translate into boredom. Interior walls
are a traditional mix of clay and rice husks to
keep the foundations dry. The bathroom sink,
made from central Vietnam white marble, is
shaped like a blooming lotus flower. And take a
closer look at the floor tiles. Engravings on
those in the hall were hand-etched by local
artisans, and—my favorite touch—on some of
the tiles in my room, which were handmade by FROM TOP: The cable car offers scenic views of the mountain and its
a local Yen Tu potter, you can spot stray paw many pagodas; the Legacy’s hotel rooms are overlooked by Yen Tu
prints from the craftsman’s cats. mountain; rooms feature handcrafted tiles and hessian walls.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019


CHECKING IN
FROM TOP: A royal entrance to the Yen Tu palace complex; the café and
bar at Legacy Yen Tu shows off designer Bill Bensley’s signature style;
head to the village square for a nightly traditional dance performance.

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
Bensley’s fingerprints, meanwhile, are all
over the public areas. Bright fuchsia lounges
and embroidered silk pillows sit within a lobby
clad in orange hessian rice-sacks and crowned
with vibrant Asian artwork. In the bar (though
more café than cocktail lounge, to fit the
Buddhist surrounds), a painting of the “Tiger
Queen,” who I’m told resembles the
Enlightened King’s beautiful fourth wife,
overlooks a mottled bronze bar, cartoonish
tiger rugs, and oversized four-poster lounges.
At the hotel’s Tho Quang restaurant, buffet
breakfast is served on rustic-looking wooden
cabinets, with regal, though slightly
dysfunctional, throne-like chairs.
Of course any good queen must keep in
touch with the common folk, so I leave my
palace quarters for the five-minute walk from
the hotel to the Hang Huong village across the
field. Low-season makes the empty village
seem a little theme-parkish, but the food is still
the real deal. For lunch I eat country-style Tien
Yen salted chicken and fermented Yen Tu
bamboo shoot at Nha Hang Cho Que restaurant,
finishing with a thimble of local apricot wine.
Cultural activities feel authentic, too. In the
evening, I huddle among a small audience in
the village center, and watch a troupe of
giggling local teens—many of them hotel
staff—perform traditional dances. On another
night, I visit the village’s meditation center and
learn Truc Lam Zen meditation from one of the
masters, who tells me the local agarwood
incense smoking by my feet cleanses the soul.
But the most significant wellness draw here
is yet to come. Opening later this year, Legacy
Yen Tu’s 2,240-square-meter spa is set to be
another pilgrimage of sorts, as you’ll almost
certainly find Zen after a visit. Centering on
a digital-detox theme, the complex will be
Wi-Fi-free: drop your phone at the door and
wander to the brick hammam; get scrubbed
with a bamboo-charcoal exfoliant; and unwind
in a singing-bowl bath, releasing tension with
the help of melodies that vibrate underwater.
The spa will be a hands-free space, so while
relaxing oil massages are not on the menu, aura
therapy, jade facials and wood tapping offer
alternative treatments. I’m keen to soak in the
herbal bath, which Hesse tells me will be made
up of the medicinal plants An Ky Sinh searched
for all those years ago. Yes, I know, a steaming
herbal infusion is not going to grant me a life
everlasting, but I’m thinking a trip here will
surely extend it. accorhotels.com; doubles from
VND2,700,000.
 








 







  




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"

#"!$
#
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AT T H E TA B L E
Royal Revival
Famous for dishing up award-winning Thai cuisine, the
chef at the helm of Michelin-starred Paste Bangkok has
ventured to the other side of the Mekong, offering reimagined
takes on the traditional royal cuisine of her Lao heritage.
Claire Boobbyer finds past meets present on the menu
at this elegant new outpost in Luang Prabang.


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
The signature
duck curry at
Paste Laos.
THOSE IN THE KNOW have always talked up Lao
food for its marriage of balanced flavors—more
savory than sweet, intense use of fragrant
herbs, and unusual tastes such as moreish
C O U R T E S Y O F PA S T E L A O S
buffalo-skin paste and sundried river algae.
Internationally, however, it simmers under the
radar. Search for Lao cuisine on Amazon, say,
and Hawker Fare, the book by Michelin two-
starred Lao-American chef James Syhabout
appears, but little else. Lower down the >>
 AT T H E TA B L E
FROM TOP: The Yum Yai salad,
featuring pork belly, dried squid,
crab, riverweed, and egg floss,
was inspired by a Phia Sing recipe;
Chef Bongkoch “Bee” Satongun;
the restaurant’s polished interior.
ranks, a title with a monotone jacket is listed.
Unlike contemporary cookbooks with graphic
covers so alluring they’re good enough to eat,
it’s this, the unassuming Traditional Recipes of
Laos by Phia Sing, that’s behind the opening of
Luang Prabang’s new Paste Laos, the country’s
first restaurant with Michelin-starred chefs in
the kitchen. Bongkoch “Bee” Satongun and her
Australian chef husband Jason Bailey’s Paste
Bangkok has held a star since the Michelin
Guide launched in Thailand in 2017; and Bee
was voted Asia’s Best Female Chef in 2018. It
was time for a new challenge.
First published in 1981, Traditional Recipes
of Laos features handwritten recipes by Sing,
who was the former chef and master of
ceremonies at the Royal Palace. When
communist forces entered Vientiane in 1975,
the British ambassador to Laos, Alan Davidson,
photocopied the royal recipes, loaned to him by
Crown Prince Vong Savang, and promised
Sing’s widow, then still living in Luang
Prabang, he would publish a book.
Fast-forward two generations and enter
British hotelier Ivan Scholte, who was so
impressed with Paste Bangkok’s Thai heritage
and aristocratic-influenced menu he invited its
chefs to take over the restaurant at his Apsara
Hotel in Luang Prabang. After research and
conversations with Ivan, Jason turfed up Sing’s
cookbook, which inspired Bee to continue
Sing’s culinary legacy, reimagining his
traditional recipes for contemporary tastes.

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
Despite her Lao heritage—her father is
Hmong, her mother, from the Lao Wiang
ethnic group—Bee had never set foot in Laos
before this venture. Her great-grandparents
had moved to Thailand fleeing tribal warfare,
her parents had never been back, and she’d not
considered a trip until Ivan invited her. “Lao food
is still unknown,” Bee says, “and many haven’t heard
of Phia Sing. We’ve updated his recipes for the modern
palate keeping 80 percent of the original idea and ingredients.”
Within the upscale, white-tablecloth Paste Laos dining room in
the riverside Apsara Hotel, an exotic wallpaper adorned with
mythical plumed birds and flowering trees looks over diners.
Foodies familiar with traditional Lao cuisine must absorb the
backstory to understand what underpins the restaurant’s dishes.
Diners may expect certain flavors or aesthetics, but Paste Laos
introduces unexpected nuanced twists on common plates.
Take the conventional Luang Prabang salad, made of lettuce,
tomato, cucumber, watercress, peanuts and hardboiled egg with
a sweet-sour dressing featuring fish sauce. Here, the salad is
significantly tweaked and textured with quail eggs, crunchy greens,
lightly tart curry sauce and silken salmon roe. The sour river-fish
soup is exquisite: wafer-thin slips of tender tilapia float in a soup
packed with herbs and flavored with fermented Lao fish sauce (pa
dek), and decorated with a pretty and peppery young tamarind leaf.
Bee reinterprets Sing’s Lao duck curry by slow-cooking the
succulent duck with young coconut, curry paste and shards of taro,
adding dill, Chinese cabbage flower and pink hummingbird flower
petals on top. The original curry paste and powder were short on
ingredients. Bee adds garlic, lemongrass, galangal, fennel and
nutmeg to the original recipe’s dried chili and shallot for greater
depth of flavor, plus fresh tomato puree (something Sing included in
a second duck curry recipe marked “French-style”). Sing’s recipe
was most likely heavy with its featured 10 potatoes, but Bee swaps
the tuber for taro, a different texture and a lighter, sweeter note.
Bee credits meticulous ingredient research—the perfectly aged
coconut for cream; using Lao galangal and Lao sugar, both more
intense in flavor than Thai verisons; foraging for fragrant herbs
and flowers—as the strength of her new culinary adventure. Laos is
gifted with an abundant natural larder, and, like Sing before her,
Bee is carrying on an ancient tradition—both of which couldn’t be
more of the moment in the food world. pastelaos.com; mains from
LAK187,000; set menus from LAK385,000, two-person minimum.
C O U R T E S Y O F PA S T E L A O S
 NE X T ACT

Test the Waters

The Datai Langkawi has reopened after an extensive renovation and the
astute realization that the modern traveler’s greatest luxury is learning to
commune with nature. On a wellness sojourn, Jeninne Lee-St. John
finds the best of intentions under the rainforest canopy.
C O URT ESY O F T HE DATA I L A N GK AWI

Without a fourth
wall, treatment
rooms in The Datai
spa are built for
forest-bathing.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019


NE X T ACT
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: One of
The Datai’s two main pools fronts a
swath of its white-sand parabola;
The Gulai House serves traditional
Malaysian fare in a special-
occasion setting; a refurbished spa
villa; a one-bedroom beach villa;
The Pavilion serves Thai cuisine up
in the trees; a Canopy Deluxe room.
PERHAPS YOU’VE HEARD of Masaru
Emoto. The Japanese alternative-
medicine guru believed in the effect of
human consciousness on water. He
claimed that when he exposed water
to positive ideas (the word “angel;” a
photo of dolphins) then froze it, the
molecules formed beautiful crystals.
Water exposed to negative ideas (“you
disgust me;” heavy metal music) and
then frozen became ugly blobs. You
can find his microscopic photographs
online, and—since our bodies are
about 60 percent water—they seem to
make a compelling aesthetic argument
for all of us to think happier thoughts.
Emoto’s theory has never been
scientifically proven and plenty of
skeptics call him a crank. But the
idea of the power of intent pervades
the wellness industry. Sankalpa is a
yoga term for a solemn vow, a
resolution of the heart and mind, an
ideal way you want to be; references
in Sanskrit date back 3,000 years but
it has burst into the mainstream
recently. That meditation app on
your phone? Those elementary
school kids in mindfulness class?
That’s all about intention.
The Datai Langkawi has intention
in its DNA. When it first opened 25
years ago, the resort was ahead of its
time in environmental responsibility.
Original architect Kerry Hill is said
to have been so awed walking in its
pristine rainforest he wasn’t sure he
sure he should move a single stone.
For every tree they felled to build the
property, they immediately planted
a new one, and they set the main
building up on a bluff away from the
beach to show off the view, emphasize
the mystique and, most importantly,
preserve the virgin land as it had
been for 10 million years. Langkawi’s
original grande dame closed in 2017
for renovations. When it reopened in
December with redone villas and
suites and a new five-bedroom estate
villa for your group travel needs, plus
a new nature center to encourage
forest-bathing, a permaculture
garden to promote sustainable eating,
and a wellness program all about
living your best life by listening to
your body’s needs and imbuing your
cells with good intent, well, it was
clear that this Datai is using even
deeper sankalpa than before.
THE DATAI OCCUPIES an enviable
C O URT ESY O F T HE DATA I L A N GK AWI (6)
swath of land on northward Datai Bay,
a deep cove protected from the open
ocean. This white parabola with its
flat, pale-turquoise waters is an easy
layup for the sundry best-beaches-in-
the-world lists on which it ranks. It
looks like the gods built it for
paddleboarding; I teach my normally
timorous mom to stand and soon
she’s zooming so far out to the depths
that I wonder if she’s heading for the
Thai islands in the distance. Facing
shore, I admire not only the lushness
that envelops the property (you can
barely pick out any buildings among
the brush) but also the hustle and laze
of a beach resort completely in its
groove. It’s a healthy living organism.
The hotel has barely reopened,
but everyone is behaving like they’ve
been playing their roles for a
generation. Which, I find out, they
have. Many of the familial staff who
deliver my iced lattes in mini-
chillers or make the rounds with
complimentary cocktails have been
here from the beginning. And while
I find it easy to make myself at home SITTING ON THE PORCH UNDER THE
on the elevated daybed I claim every TREE CANOPY, SUNLIGHT
day, for many, this place truly is their
(second) home. Thirty-eight percent PEEKING THROUGH THE TREES, A
of guests are repeats, and the average
number of visits among them is five.
MONKEY PAYING WITNESS FROM
So, when sprucing up their ABOVE, I RECEIVE MY MANDI EMBUN
ecosystem, The Datai was intent on
evolving organically. Their greening kookery dressed up as science? I
efforts go far beyond the new nature don’t know. But the diverse experts
center with its resident naturalist the resort has brought in to fix my
and the coral-preservation and body, mind and soul certainly have
-rehab program. They bottle their me happy to drink the Kool-Aid.
own water (infused with happy
thoughts), they buy their seafood A COUPLE DOZEN people who have
direct from local fishermen (who, flown in from all over the world are
when they cruised up one afternoon, sitting in the nature center sniffing
had all the chefs actually skipping unmarked vials of serum. We are each
down to the beach), and they’ve asked which of the five most appeals
created a permaculture garden to to us, and then are given a bottle of it
work towards zero-waste food without explanation. I’m feeling a bit
production. Permaculture, said Bill like a rebel and a bit left out when the
Mollison, one of the Tasmanian blue bottle I’ve selected seems so
environmental scientists who came unpopular while the red bottles are
up with the idea, “is a philosophy of nearly all snapped up. Then Camille
working with, rather than against, Blardone, CEO of Laboratoire Gibro the room, I realize that nearly
nature; of protracted and thoughtful S.A. in Switzerland, which makes the everyone who has come here from the
observation rather than protracted Phyto 5 skincare line, says, “The five European winter has a red bottle in
and thoughtless labor; and of looking scents are calibrated to Traditional front of them. The handful of us who
at plants and animals in all their Chinese Medicine (TCM) elements, live in Southeast Asia have bottles of
functions, rather than treating any and address our individual physical other colors—presumably because we
area as a single product system.” and emotional needs.” He goes on, are already acclimated to the tropics.
Take that holistic perspective and wiping the sweat pouring from his Camille shows us Emoto’s water
apply it to the human body and that brow, “Here we are on this beautiful photographs, and says the water
is The Datai’s phytobiology- and island. Of course, many of you picked forming the base of his Phyto 5
inner truth–based wellness the fire serum. Hot climates products—a plant-based amalgam of
philosophy. It’s an effort to Masaru unbalance your fire energy. We need TCM, ancient beliefs and modern
Emoto your insides. Is this new-age to cool you down.” Glancing around tech—comes from a pure spring in

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019


NE X T ACT
FROM TOP: Spot normally
shy dusky leaf monkeys
throughout the property;
the new nature center is
the launch point for
exploration; the Beach Bar.

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
Switzerland’s verdant, unpolluted
Jura mountains, where their lab is
and where his family has a fairytale
cottage in which they can immerse in
the change of seasons. Abdul Ghani
Hussain is a Western-trained doctor
who helped create The Datai’s new
wellness program. His grandparents
were traditional Malay healers, but
he only dove deep into the subject
when he realized his wife was
allergic to many medicines in his
clinic. He allies Camille’s Swiss
experience with the tropical island
we’re on today. The Internet may tell
you that forest-bathing began in
Japan in the 1980s, but rainforest-
dwellers have been doing it from
time immemorial. Back in the day,
Dr. Ghani says, Malays rose at 4 a.m.
to perform stretching and breathing
rituals to activate their earth, water,
fire and wind elements within.
They’d say prayers and then go into
the forest for their mandi embun—
literally, bathing in the morning dew.
“The dew helps strengthen the body
and the skin. After years of doing
this, warriors would not get cut in
battle,” Dr. Ghani says. “We are
trying to recreate that environment.”
My indoor/outdoor treatment
room in The Datai spa feels like an
equatorial onsen combined with a
scenic-vista rest stop. There is no
fourth wall; the soundtrack is
birdsong and a bubbling stream. My
bespoke Phyto 5 facial is built on my
scent selection (metal), my desired
emotional state (picked from a set of
sankalpa-style cards: “confidence,”
“zentitude,” etc.), and the therapist’s
assessment of what my skin needs.
“Treatments are only effective if
they’re made for you,” Camille had
said. The Phyto 5 line has more than
100 products, and each person uses
no fewer than 24 per multisensory
spa journey that includes
biostimulation and light therapy.
“The treatment tries to put you in
a state of happiness to receive the
healing properties,” Camille told me
—which puts a lot of pressure on the
other person in the room. “Yes, it’s
also a journey for your therapist. So,
they need to have a strong chi. In
training, they spend a lot of time
learning to stimulate the magnetic
field of the body. We teach them how
to maintain a positive state of mind.”
Sitting on the porch under the
tree canopy, sunlight peeking
through the leaves, a monkey paying
witness from a high branch, I receive
my mandi embun. “The simple ritual
of the flower bath is about releasing
bad spirits out of your system,” Dr.
Ghani had told me. “We believe in
the effect of thought on water.” My
therapist asks me to close my eyes
and consider my intention—what is
it I want to be? Then he solemnly
pours petal-filled water on me. It is
so soothing, almost meditative, and
for some reason when the water
washes down my right arm I shed
the tiniest of tears. Goodbye
dystopian nightmare-scape
negative-thought water. Here in the
C O URT ESY O F T HE DATA I L A N GK AWI (3)
heart of the rainforest, I feel awash
in exquisite snowflakes.
thedatai.com; rates from RM7,500 for
a double room to RM90,000 for The
Datai Estate villa. Malaysia Airlines
flies to Langkawi from Kuala Lumpur
with many daily connections to other
cities in Asia; malaysiaairlines.com.
 DEBUT

Higher
Ground
The sleek and stylish new
Rosewood Bangkok has a warm
welcome built into its architecture.
Here are some of the glammest angles
of the latest skyscraping five-star
in the Thai capital.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY SCOTT A. WOODWARD

The Chinese
restaurant, Nan Bei,
was designed by
AvroKO. Printed
top, trousers and
Chinese handheld
fan, Sretsis; crystal
earrings, Milin;
heels, Jimmy Choo.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019


DEBUT

A private dining
room in Nan Bei
restaurant.
Dress and
crystal earrings,
Milin. LEFT:
Strutting into the
lobby. Jumpsuit
and golden starfish
earrings, Sretsis;
heels, Jimmy
Choo.

WHEN YOU DESIGN AN ENTIRE HOTEL around the wai, the Thai hand-gesture of greeting,
you set a pretty high standard for the welcome to be expected within. Rosewood Bangkok
is now receiving guests in the heart of the capital, and whether you arrive via the
expressway off-ramps from both city airports or the integrated walkway to the Skytrain,
you sense that your personal convenience, comfort and style have always been top of
mind. The residential feel that pervades the 159-room tower is best exemplified by the 23
suites and villas on high, four with private pools, all of which we’d happily move into.
Among the on-trend drinking and dining venues are a speakeasy with 6,000 vinyl
records for guests to play DJ, and an organic, locavore, farm-to-table café that healthily
complements the holistic spa reviving the beauty rituals and lost remedies of ancient
Siam. A waterfall that runs for 11 floors through the hotel’s interior and winds up at the
saltwater lap pool pays tribute to the riverine and canal culture of Bangkok. Surely, this
is what they mean by “sense of place.” rosewoodhotels.com; doubles from Bt9,500.


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

 MODEL: Kiana
Treaster @WM
Management;
STYLIST: Saranya
Ariyakul; HAIR AND
MAKEUP:
Thapakornbhat
Yu-vanich;
PHOTOGRAPHER’S
ASSISTANT:
Jakarpong
Chumneankul.

The main
saltwater pool.
Dress and crystal
earrings, Milin;
heels, Jimmy
Choo. BELOW:
Relaxing in a Pool
Sky Villa. Dress,
Disaya; crystal
earrings, Milin;
heels, Christian
Louboutin.
SPOTLIGHT

Modern Medina
Once a bolt-hole for beatnik artists and writers, the Moroccan city of Tangier has always
nourished a creative vibe. As a new generation evolve the quirky laneways with hip new
hangouts and collaborative design boutiques, Rachna Sachasinh finds
the free-spirited North African port is shining anew.

IN A FRENCH DECO BUILDING in

Tangier, not far from where William
S. Burroughs wrote much of Naked
Lunch, textile artist Nina Mohammad-
Galbert led me through the stacks of
vintage Beni Ourain and boucherouite
rugs that line her studio. Mohammad-
Galbert runs Artisan Project (artisan
projectinc.com), a textile brand and
sourcing company for Moroccan
wares. She recently relocated to
Tangier after seven years in Fez.
“This city constantly draws in new
perspectives,” she said. “The vibe here
invites creativity.”
Tangier’s notoriety peaked in the
years following World War II, when it
was a demilitarized zone that seduced
spies, artists and the jet set. But by the
1980s, the flow of foreign visitors and
the money they brought with them
had dried up. Now, after decades of
neglect, the city is showing signs of
renewal. Morocco’s King
Mohammed VI mandated a cleanup of
the historic medina, commissioned a
tree-lined waterfront promenade, and
installed a modern port fit for cruise
ships and yachts. An ambitious high-
speed railway to Casablanca started
running in December, slashing travel
time between the cities from five
hours to two. Tangier at last seems
poised for another heyday.
On my visit, I strolled the medina
and admired the Art Deco buildings
along the boulevards of Ville Nouvelle.
Everywhere, I found Tangier doing
what it does best: giving newcomers
and natives room to create. A prime
example is Atelier Kissaria (atelier-
R A FA E L I A S / G E T T Y I M A G E S

kissaria.com), a workshop and gallery

where printmakers collaborate with
traditional weavers, ceramists and
Tangier’s historic
embroiderers, applying a modern
medina. design sensibility to classic Moroccan
crafts. “Tangier is moving forward



MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

fast,” artistic director Hicham
Bouzid told me. “We want to show
that the slow, old-fashioned approach
is still relevant.”
Getting lost in the casbah’s
bougainvillea-strewn lanes led me to
more retail discoveries, including Au
Fil de Tanger (26 Rue Ben Abbou;
212/61067-7213), where artisans
embroider handmade linen caftans.
At KMcouleurs (19 Rue Ben Ajiba;
212/5399-39505), Senegalese designer
Karim Legros sells kaleidoscopic
African wax-print djellabas,
babouches and accessories. A few
alleys over, a new addition, Galerie
Conil (fb.com/galerieconil), deals in
avant-garde artwork that reflects on
the country’s migrant crisis.
A short walk south brought me to
Mimi Calpe (mimicalpe.com; doubles
from DH1,019), a 19th-century
French-style villa that was
transformed into a hotel two years
ago. Its high walls conceal a verdant
garden and swimming pool; inside,
the six sun-soaked rooms have
verandas that overlook the Strait of
Gibraltar. It’s an understated
alternative to ornate properties like
Hotel Nord-Pinus Tanger (nord-pinus-
tanger.com; doubles from DH2,048),
which draws the modern beau monde
with its whitewashed terraces, refined
Galerie Conil, a
contemporary art
venue in Tangier.
FROM TOP: THIERRY ARENSMA; COURTESY OF GALERIE CONIL
Intricate design
at Hotel Nord-
Pinus Tanger.
Maghrebi interiors, and potent
cocktails. You can find traces of an
earlier Tangier at Aux 3 Portes
(aux3portes.com; doubles from
DH1,523), the home turned hotel of a
French interior designer. With its
kidney-shaped pool and hodgepodge
of textiles and curios, the nine-room
hideaway feels like a throwback to the
boho salons of the 1940s.
Tangier’s old-school haunts still
draw a crowd. Tourists and Tanjawis
alike flock to the 98-year-old Gran
Café de Paris (1 Place de France;
212/5399-38444) and the nearby
Librairie des Colonnes (librairie-des-
colonnes.org), a onetime favorite of
literary giants like Jean Genet and
Truman Capote. Near Bab Haha, the
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019
casbah’s northern gate, I wedged
myself into Les Fils du Détroit (fb.com/
lesfilsdudetroittanger), a tiny music
venue where I sipped mint tea as the
septuagenarian house band belted
traditional Andalusian ballads, a
routine its members have kept up for
30 years.
At dusk one evening, I followed the
lead of the locals, many of whom make
a nightly ritual of walking toward the
sultan’s old palace to watch the sun set
before strolling to the medina for a
bite. At Syrian diner Abou Tayssir (11
Rue d’Italie; 212/645-811-609; mains
from DH57), soft, smoky, tandoor-fired
pitas were a perfect foil to crispy
falafel and tangy hummus. Well-
heeled Tanjawis slunk into the piano
bar at El Morocco Club (elmoroccoclub.
ma; mains from DH123) for aperitifs
followed by saffron couscous and
chermoula-stuffed sardines; the menu
was developed in part by chef Meryem
Cherkaoui, the matron of Moroccan
ancestral gastronomy. The most
talked-about arrival is Macondo
Tanger (fb.com/macondotanger; mains
from DH57), a Mediterranean spot
with house-made pastas and
360-degree views.
“Tanjawis are less about the
bottom line and more about joie de
vivre,” Mohammad-Galbert told me.
It’s true. Tangier is still a place that
indulges romantics and rebels, where
innovation and tradition are
embraced in equal measure. The
high-speed train may be pushing
the city into the future, but Tangier’s
spell is timeless.


 THE
THE BEST NEW (AND REBORN)
IT LIST
2019 HOTELS IN THE WORLD

Every year, T+L editors

reach out to our
network of hospitality
professionals, trusted
writers and hotel
addicts in search of
the finest new (and
newly reimagined)
properties around the
globe. Then we log
tens of thousands of
miles checking in to
dozens of them, from
far-flung islands to
mountain lodges (and
this year, for our It List,
more than one
renovated church).
Here, 19 of our
favorites—find the full
collection for 2019 at
COURTESY OF CAPELLA UBUD

tandl.me/it-list.

Edited by Lila Battis, Siobhan

Reid and Hannah Walhout

Hidden in the wilds of

Bali, Capella Ubud.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019 

T H E I T L I S T 2 0 19

▲▲▲
QUEEN OF THE JUNGLE

Capella Ubud,
Bali
I N DON E SI A
Hotel designer Bill Bensley has saltwater pools and suspension bridges. Each has a theme—
C O URT ESY O F CA PE LL A U BU D

dreamed up some of Southeast
Asia’s most glamorous resorts, but
his favorite travel memories are
those of childhood camping trips. That love of nature, along
with Bensley’s obsession with old-world style, informed his
vision for the first Balinese property from the Singapore-based
Capella Hotel Group. The result is 23 of the most lavish and
fantastical tents ever conceived, complete with copper tubs,
the Librarian’s Tent, the Cartographer’s Tent—and is outfitted
with rich textiles and antiques from the owner’s collection.
The scenery is immersive: Bensley didn’t cut down a single
tree on the resort’s four hectares of rainforest and rice
terraces. And then there’s Ubud, Bali’s cultural center, which is
a mere 20-minute drive away—that is, if you can bear to leave
the Capella’s little piece of paradise. capellahotels.com;
doubles from $838. — GISELLA WILLIAMS


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM *Prices throughout are listed in U.S. dollars for ease of comparison.
 ▼▼▼
FANTASY ISLAND

Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Andamans

I N DI A

Most island hotels boast about their seclusion, but the Taj Exotica Resort & Spa,
set on Havelock Island in India’s far-flung Andaman Islands, doesn’t need to bother.
The journey to this 54-suite hotel on a remote archipelago usually includes an
international flight, a domestic flight and a ferry ride, but the trek pays off when you
arrive. Concealed in the rainforest on the edge of Rhadanagar Beach, Taj Exotica was
built to accommodate its surroundings, with endemic plants and 13 hectares of
untouched mangrove forest punctuating the 18-hectare site, as well as an organic
garden that supplies the property’s three restaurants. The eco-friendly villas are
constructed from palmilla and coconut wood and raised on stilts—a nod to the
traditional homes of the Andamans’ indigenous people. The ocean is mere steps away
for easy access to kayaking, scuba diving and snorkeling, and though you can’t see
the beach from your suite, you can hear the rolling of the waves from almost every
corner of the resort. tajhotels.com; doubles from $461. — MARY HOLL AND

▲▲▲
MERCHANT MANOR

Six Senses
Duxton
SI NG A POR E

A study in updated nostalgia, the

first urban hotel from the
wellness-focused brand is a
natural fit for Duxton Hill, where
steely towers loom over Chinatown
shophouses. Among them is this
refitted row of several designed by
F RO M L EF T: CO URTESY O F TAJ EXOTI CA R ESO RT & S PA ; CO URT ESY O F SI X SE NS ES H OT ELS RES O RTS

London hotelier (and 1960s Bond

girl) Anouska Hempel, who kept
their intimate feel intact. Behind
the stunning original façades,
interiors echo Singapore’s unique
heritage: Chinese screens and
calligraphy-patterned wallpaper,
Portuguese shutters, Malay
woodwork. In collaboration with
the TCM practice across the street,
a local doctor pays housecalls for
consultations, and the mini-bars
in the 49 guest rooms are stocked
with botanical tinctures—in
addition to locavore booze in an
Instagram-worthy display. The
hotel feels like an oasis, but the
surrounding area, Tanjong Pagar,
is one of the city’s liveliest and
most neighborly. In fact, sister
hotel Six Senses Maxwell, which
contains the joint-property’s pool
and spa, just opened a few blocks
away. sixsenses.com; doubles from
$288. — CAREY JONES

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019 

T H E I T L I S T 2 0 19

◄◄◄

CONCRETE OASIS
United
Places
Botanic
Gardens
M E L BOU R N E

Stymied by the city’s

lackluster options
when trying to book a
room for a friend,
developer Darren
Rubenstein decided to
take action. The first-
time hotelier spent
years refining the
vision behind the
12-suite United Places
Botanic Gardens,
where apartment-style
amenities and
seamless service
deliver a sense of
understated luxury.
Rubenstein joined
forces with designer
Sue Carr to create the
hotel, a purpose-built
four-story structure
opposite Melbourne’s
Royal Botanic
Gardens, in the chichi
suburb of South Yarra.
The property is full of
antipodean touches,
from Grant
Featherston Scape
chairs in the living
rooms to limited-
edition Sullivans Cove
whisky in the mini-
bars. The garden-view
suites have moss-
green overtones and
velvet drapes that
close at the touch of a
button, while the ones
overlooking historic
South Yarra are
finished in a dusty
pink. Butlers are on
C O URT ESY O F UN IT E D PL ACES

call around the clock—

ask one to book a table
at Matilda, chef Scott
Pickett’s fire-focused
eatery downstairs.
unitedplaces.com.au;
suites from $466.
— CARRIE HUTCHINSON


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

 ▲▲▲

LOG CABIN LUXURY

Mere steps from the iconic, cherry-red aerial tram that shuttles skiers ▲▲▲
Caldera to the summit of Jackson Hole’s Rendezvous Mountain, Caldera COMEBACK OF THE YEAR
House House has one of the most covetable locations in the area. But its
Belmond Cap
refined interiors are what make the exclusive, eight-suite property
JAC K S O N H O L E , stand out. Blond oak paneling and low-slung Scandinavian furniture Juluca
W YO M I N G lend a Midcentury European flair, while custom-made wooden M AU N DAYS BAY,
headboards and textiles with Navajo motifs draw inspiration from the A NGU I L L A
culture of the American West. The spacious rooms feel like
penthouses (with a price tag to match), each with a chef’s kitchen, Cap Juluca was always
fireplace and heated balcony with mountain views. A ski-valet service and an in-house ski shop run considered the place to see and
by local guru Gov Carrigan ensure that getting on and off the slopes is effortless. In the evenings, be seen in the Caribbean—but
refuel for your next powder day with wood-fired pizzas, porchetta mac ’n’ cheese, and other carb- over the past decade, it faded
F RO M TO P : C OU RT ESY O F CA LD ERA H O USE ; CO URT ESY O F B ELMO N D CA P JULUCA ; CO URT ESY O F HOTE L PET E R & PAUL

heavy dishes at the hotel’s outpost of the beloved Italian restaurant Old Yellowstone Garage. in favor of newer, buzzier
calderahouse.com; doubles from $2,600. — JEN MURPHY locales. Then, just months
after the property had
changed ownership,
Hurricane Irma struck,
putting a planned $121 million
& Paul a vibe that’s somewhere between redesign on pause. Now the
Swedish manor house and Italian palazzo. wait is over. Five new villas,
A colorful addition to the city’s growing set among the Moorish
roster of outstanding (and affordable) buildings arcing along
places to stay, the property is made up of Maundays Bay, bring the key
a former church, a schoolhouse, a rectory, count up to 66 rooms and 42
and convent buildings that had been suites—with new perks like
abandoned for more than a decade. Last bathroom patios and Bluetooth
year, prominent local resident Nathalie speakers. A new spa offers
Jordi and design firm ASH NYC converted treatments that draw on
the complex in the artsy Marigny indigenous Taino knowledge,
neighborhood into a 71-room hotel. Guest and Pimms restaurant has
▲▲▲ rooms occupy repurposed spaces like been given a seafood spin and
classrooms and the stage of the old a chef’s table presided over by
SAINT IN THE CITY auditorium. Many original details, Londoner Andy Gaskin. Plus,
Hotel Peter including cypress-wood moldings,
stained-glass windows, wainscoted
the easygoing resort has put
& Paul corridors, and marble fireplaces, have
locks on its doors for the first
time—an upgrade that has
N E W OR L E A NS been carefully preserved. The unusual some regulars grumbling.
mustard-yellow rectory serves as the That is, until they hit the
Powder-blue and pine-green ginghams, Elysian Bar. Order their take on the Jack beach: the Cap they know and
handcrafted wardrobes, and a wooden Rose. hotelpeterandpaul.com; doubles love is alive and well. belmond.
chandelier from Sweden lend Hotel Peter from $129. — TANVI CHHEDA com; doubles from
$725. — HANNAH WALHOUT

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019 

T H E I T L I S T 2 0 19

MAGIC TREE HOUSE

Awasi
Iguazú
M ISION E S,
A RGE N T I NA

You check in to this

stylish, 14-villa
property in the
Argentinean jungle
with one thing in mind:
seeing Iguazú Falls, a
series of 275 towering
cascades on the
Brazilian border that
attract more than one
million visitors
every year. And you will
see them, with early
access to beat
the crowds, and
accompanied by a
private guide, an expert
naturalist assigned to
you for the duration of
your stay. But just as
special is Awasi’s roster
of activities beyond the
star attraction—all of
which are included in
the price of your visit.
Kayak down the Yacuí
River, through remote
Atlantic rain forest;
meet an indigenous
Guarani community;
and wander the ruins of
the Jesuit mission
at San Ignacio Miní,
a unesco World
Heritage site (the full-
day road trip is well
worth it). Each
excursion brings a new ▲▲▲
perspective to
HELLENIC GODDESS
this well-trodden
destination, just as the
thoughtful, seemingly
Istoria
effortless service from SA N TOR I N I, GR E ECE Far from the 12-suite retreat had a former life as a three-
the Awasi team raises crowded corridors story Cycladic mansion—the domain of an
C O URT ESY O F D ES I GN HOTE LS

the bar for hospitality
in an area long lacking
in luxury hotels.
awasiiguazu.com; from
$1,050 per person, all-
inclusive, two-night
minimum.
— JACQUELINE GIFFORD
of major Santorini
villages like Fira or
Oia, Istoria sits
above Perivolos Beach, one of the island’s
most serene stretches of volcanic black-sand
coastline. The third Santorini property from
husband-and-wife hoteliers Antonis
Eliopoulos and Kalia Konstantinidou, this
eccentric Greek socialite with a passion for
horses. Elements of the original estate can
still be found throughout; the ground-floor
stables have been converted into guest rooms,
each with its own private patio and plunge pool
or hot tub, and the interiors have been
modernized with bespoke furniture, mosaic
floors of locally made tile, handcrafted textiles


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

 ▼▼▼
RIVE GAUCHE GRANDEUR

Lutetia
PA R I S

This Left Bank institution—opened by the Boucicaut family in 1910,

across the street from their department store Le Bon Marché—has
been restored to its former glory after a four-year closure and a $230
million revamp. The result is the epitome of understated luxury, with
original stained-glass windows and Art Deco chandeliers tempered by
sleek mirrored surfaces and custom-built furniture in dark blues and
caramel. A new interior courtyard suffuses the common areas with
light, while the all-marble subterranean spa—home to a hammam, a
sauna and a 17-meter indoor pool—is an oasis of calm in the busy
St.-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood. Bar Joséphine, named for
Josephine Baker, a frequent guest of the hotel, is the pièce de résistance:
the frescoed Romanesque ceiling took a painstaking 17,000 hours to
restore. hotellutetia.com; doubles from $836. — SIOBHAN REID

and Aegean accents. The massive pool, which

the resort claims is the largest at any on the
island, and tranquil spa make it all too tempting
to hunker down at the hotel—but one alfresco
C O URT ESY O F LUT E TI A

meal at the property’s patio restaurant, or a

short walk down to the private loungers on the
secluded onyx beach, will remind you of the
striking natural beauty at your doorstep.
istoriahotel.gr; doubles from $448.
— JES SICA KLINGELFUS S

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019 

T H E I T L I S T 2 0 19

►►►
URBAN SANCTUARY

The Jaffa Tel Aviv

Built on the site of a 19th-century
French hospital, the Jaffa now
offers rehabilitation of a more
luxurious variety. The John
Pawson–designed lobby, hung with
Damien Hirsts and punctuated by
sections of an 800-year-old wall
unearthed during renovation, puts
the hotel’s marriage of old and new
into relief. The 120 rooms and
suites, divided between the original
building and a recently built
addition, are united by clean design,
with furniture conceived by Pawson.
In the hospital building, an oak-tree-
studded courtyard is surrounded by
four stories of loggias leading to
guest rooms—some with ceilings so
high they’re downright celestial.
In the new building, windows look
out onto the glittering
Mediterranean. Add to that two
restaurants by New York’s Major
Food Group (of Carbone fame), a
subterranean spa, and the Chapel
bar, with painstakingly restored
stained-glass windows and a
bona fide late-night scene, and
the Jaffa has set a new standard
for high-end Israeli hotels.
thejaffahotel.com; doubles
from $600. — ADEENA SUSSMAN

◄◄◄
RARE VINTAGE

Quinta da Côrte
D O U R O VA L L E Y, P O R T U G A L

This whitewashed winery and guesthouse,

overlooking the terraced slopes of Portugal’s most
F RO M TO P : A MI T- G ERO N ; J E A N -F RA NCO IS JAUSSAUD

picturesque wine region, is all about analog luxuries:

reading antique books in the library; dining at
communal tables; disconnecting from screens. The
interiors have a spontaneous feel that belies the
exacting eye of designer Pierre Yovanovitch, who
oversaw every detail of the estate and its nine suites,
from the custom ceramic tables and handblown
chandeliers to the rotary phones on the nightstands.
The wine is just as fastidiously produced: the
vineyards are tilled by horses, and port is made only
when conditions are ideal. quintadacorte.com; doubles
from $195. — G.W. >>



MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
 INTO THE BLUE
Swim among sharks with our divemasters, surf the ultimate break
with our local experts, or find tranquillity in the bluest waters you’ve ever seen.
A world of wonder above and below the waves awaits with Four Seasons.

Come and live the life aquatic with us.

Find out more about our participating resorts at:

fourseasons.com/intotheblue

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T H E I T L I S T 2 0 19

BLOOMSBURY BOUDOIR

L’oscar
LON DON

The general manager,

Michael Voigt, puts it
best: “If you don’t like
purple and peacock
feathers, you better
check out right away.”
He’s only half joking.
At this former Baptist
church in central
London, the effect is
that of a posh country
manor reimagined by
Merchant Ivory by way
of Stanley Kubrick. A
butler is assigned to
each guest; waiters
effortlessly remember
orders from the day
before. The 118-year-
old building’s listed
status means that
original details like
checkered marble
floors and mahogany
banisters remain—
and the former chapel
still soars toward the
heavens at chef Tony
Fleming’s impossibly
sexy restaurant, the
Baptist, where the bar
serves “biblical”
cocktails with names
like Chastity, Pride
▲▲▲
and Gluttony. The
39 rooms—designed INTO THE WILD Botswana is of-the-moment with its marriage of style,
by Jacques Garcia— home to about a luxury and sustainability. The camp now runs
have stone fireplaces, Mombo Camp third of the entirely on solar power, and Wilderness
hand-embroidered MOR E M I G A M E world’s African employs a team of conservation scientists
headboards and baby- R E S E RV E , B O T S WA N A elephants—and and rhino-monitoring officers. Enjoy a pink
eiderdown duvets. dozens of them, G&T in the lounge, a placid sanctum of flaxen
During renovation, along with fabric and blond wood, or walk the undulating
Voigt stayed at least zebras and Cape boardwalk—at times pitched high enough for
one night in each of buffalo, graze at elephants to pass under; at others low enough
them—ensuring that, the doorstep of Mombo Camp, a just-rebuilt for them to cross over—that curves past the
regardless of your lodge in the heart of the Okavango Delta. This spa to Little Mombo, the camp’s smaller
feelings about purple tableau vivant is a fitting backdrop for cousin. After lunch, it can be tempting to drink
and peacock feathers, Wilderness Safaris’ most exclusive property, in the vistas from your private plunge pool,
this is a hotel you won’t established in the 1980s, which sits on a plum but don’t miss teatime. It’s a high art here,
want to check out of. 38,900-hectare concession in the Moremi with chilled rooibos and lemon cakes that
DA NA A LLE N

loscar.com; doubles Game Reserve. With just nine villas, the new provide fuel for late-afternoon game drives.
from $576. — REBECCA camp maintains the ambience beloved by wilderness-safaris.com; from $1,990 per
ASCHER-WALSH Mombo regulars, but also feels person, all-inclusive. — MARCIA DESANCTIS >>


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

T H E I T L I S T 2 0 19

BOHO BUNGALOW

Hotel Joaquin
L AG U N A B E AC H ,
C A L I FOR N I A

Walking into this Robert

McKinley–designed property
is like stepping into the home
of an eccentric artist. From
the local artwork to the vinyl
collection in the lobby “living
room,” every touch feels
intentional and deeply
personal. The 22-room inn on
the Pacific Coast Highway is
set inside a California
bungalow that had a previous
life as a motor lodge. It’s
centered around a courtyard
pool, where plush daybeds
and a massive bronze
sculpture by former fashion
designer Rogan Gregory set
▲▲▲
the scene for artful R&R. An
CAPITAL GAIN The Sydell Group, known for the NoMad and Freehand in-house “adventure guru”
hotels, has built its reputation on expertly distilling the organizes surfing lessons and
The Line essence of a neighborhood. Like the bohemian enclave of snorkeling at idyllic Shaw’s
D.C. Adams Morgan, the 220-room Line D.C. is resolutely Cove, just steps from the
intelligent and consciously (occasionally self-consciously) hotel. But the real action can
cool. Situated in a former church with pews repurposed as be found at all-day restaurant
lobby seating, the hotel features original art and micro Saline, where Leo Bongarra,
libraries, compiled by local shop Idle Time Books, in every formerly of L.A.’s Sunset
room. The food and drink lineup is in itself worth the stay, with six venues, including Erik Bruner- Tower Hotel, whips up SoCal
Yang’s Spoken English, an intimate standing-only tachinomiya, and James Beard Award–winner dishes with the perfect degree
Spike Gjerde’s A Rake’s Progress, the Baltimore chef’s first foray into D.C. dining. In keeping with of indulgence (order the Napa
its community-focused vision, the Line is also home to an Internet talk radio station and the lamb chops with turmeric-
nonprofit incubator Adams Morgan Community Center. In the morning, grab a coffee at Gjerde’s dusted cauliflower). hotel
the Cup We All Race 4, then join the locals on the front steps taking in the parade of Adams joaquin.com; doubles from
Morgan commuters. thelinehotel.com; doubles from $268. — TOM AUSTIN $300. — S.R. >>

F RO M TO P : C OU RT ESY O F T HE LI NE D. C. ; C OU RTESY O F A NA NTA RA Q UY N HO N

►►►

DESTINATION CREATION

Anantara Quy Nhon Villas

VIETNAM

A key staging area on the central coast for the U.S. military
during the Vietnam War, little-known Quy Nhon is blessed
with a perfect parabola of white sand and, to date, minimal
invasive tourism. Anantara has just opened the first luxury
resort in the region, but with a mere 26 private-pool villas,
they’re thankfully still keeping things on the down-low.
Marvel at local Cham ruins or doze off in Anantara’s tree-
canopy spa: life in this fishing-dominated town is a breeze.
anantara.com; doubles from $470. — JENINNE LEE-ST. JOHN


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

 T H E I T L I S T 2 0 19

▲▲▲

BEACH PARTY

Silversands
Grenada
C O URT ESY O F S I LVE R SA N DS GRE NA DA

Silversands, a just-
opened resort on
the northern end of
Grand Anse Beach,
is a game changer for the unspoiled island
of Grenada. Split across two clean-lined,
contemporary buildings clad in South
American bulletwood, the 43 guest rooms
and suites—plus nine residential
villas—have private balconies with ocean
views and a light palette of blond oak and
Italian Calacatta marble. Locals are
already flocking to eat at Silversands’ two
restaurants: Asiatique, a formal dinner-
only venue, and the Grenadian Grill, which
serves up a casual beach-club vibe,
lobster rolls and catch-of-the-day
ceviche, and evening DJ sets. Guests have
access to a watersports center—equipped
with stand-up paddleboards and kayaks
with clear bottoms so you can spot
starfish while gliding past—as well as a
spa stocked with Espa products and Puro,
a dedicated cigar-and-rum bar that serves
up sunset tastings of the local spirit.
silversandsgrenada.com; doubles from
$850. — EMMA LOVE >>


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

T H E I T L I S T 2 0 19
▼▼▼
PRESERVATION PASSION PROJECT
Amanyangyun
SH A NGH A I
It might take a village to raise a child, but it took just
one man to raze several villages—only to gloriously
resurrect them 700 kilometers away as the most
ambitious luxury resort slash living museum you
might ever have the pleasure of spending a small
fortune to sleep in. In 2002, self-made billionaire Ma
Dedong embarked on what many called a Quixotic
quest to save a bunch of 500-year-old stone-and-wood
villas and 10,000 revered camphor trees from an area
of Fuzhou that was to be flooded for a reservoir. His
workers took apart 50 houses piece by piece, dug up Here are 55 more world-class properties
an ancient well, and destroyed a tollbooth so as to fit a on the list. Head to tandl.me/it-list
fatty 2,000-year-old tree up the highway. The result: for our full gallery.
a serene, feng shui–masterpiece enclave outside of
Shanghai that is imbued with the history of the royal AFRICA
scholars who originally lived in the 26 villas perfectly Four Seasons Resort
reassembled here and complemented by a throughline Seychelles at Desroches
of minimalist Midcentury design. Whether you’re Island; Hoanib Valley
practicing calligraphy at the on-site Chinese cultural Camp Kaokoland, Namibia;
study center or zoning out in the massive Aman spa One&Only Nyungwe House
that includes a Russian banya, Moroccan hammam, Rwanda; Omaanda Lodge
and two lap pools, the experience is the purest form Windhoek, Namibia; Zuri
of soulful rejuvenation. aman.com; doubles from Zanzibar Tanzania
$890, antique villas from $8,895. — J.L.S.J.
ASIA
The Murray Hong Kong;
The Oberoi New Delhi;
Rosewood Luang Prabang
Laos; Shinta Mani Wild
Kirirom National Park,
Cambodia; Waldorf Astoria
Bangkok
CARIBBEAN +
BAHAMAS
O:LV Fifty Five San Juan,
Puerto Rico; Rosewood Baha
Mar Nassau, Bahamas;
Skylark Negril Beach
Resort Jamaica
EUROPE
Bank Hotel Stockholm;
Brach Paris; Château
Lafaurie Peyraguey
Bommes, France;
Experimental Chalet
Verbier, Switzerland; Fife
Arms Braemar, Scotland;
Hotel Mamá Mallorca,
Spain; Heckfield Place
Hampshire, England; Hotel
St. George Helsinki, Finland;
Hotel Vilòn Rome; Katikies
Mykonos Greece; Kettner’s
Townhouse London;
L’Arlatan Arles, France;

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
The Oberoi,
New Delhi.
Le Barn Bonnelles, France;
Palazzo Bozzi Corso Lecce,
Italy; Ottantotto Firenze
Florence; Raffles
Europejski Warsaw; Retreat
at Blue Lagoon Iceland;
Stamba Hotel Tbilisi,
Georgia; University Arms
Cambridge, England; Vista
Palazzo Lake Como, Italy
THE AMERICAS
Bungalows Key Largo,
Florida; Carpenter Hotel
Austin, Texas; Collective Hill
Country Wimberley,
Texas; Eaton DC Washington,
D.C.; Francis House
Napa Valley, California;
Freehand New York City;
Harbor House Inn
Mendocino, California;
Hotel Amparo San Miguel de
Allende, Mexico; Hotel
Clermont Atlanta; Hotel
Figueroa Los Angeles;
The Hoxton Portland, Oregon;
Inn at Kenmore Hall
F RO M L EF T: A LEJA ND RO SC OTT ; C O URT ESY O F T HE O BE RO I
Richmond, Massachusetts;
Janeiro Rio de Janeiro;
Montage Los Cabos, Mexico;
Noelle Nashville; The
NoMad Los Angeles;
Palihotel Seattle; Perry
Lane Hotel Savannah,
Georgia; Sheldon Chalet
Denali National Park, Alaska;
Sophy Hyde Park Chicago
AUSTRALIA
Calile Hotel Brisbane;
Paramount House Hotel
Sydney
 Boasting magnificent views of the
shimmering sea, Sofitel Bali Nusa
A taste Dua Beach Resort’s spacious rooms
of tropical and suites offer sophisticated style
and exquisite comfort. Revel in a
luxury on world of rejuvenation with a savant
mix of world-class facilities, French
the magical cosmetology and tranquil surrounds.
Discover all our magnifique addresses
island of Bali in over 40 countries on

ITDC Complex lot N5, Bali 80363 | +62 361 849 2888 | H9078@sofitel.com | www.sofitel.com
 STYLE
YOUR STAY

Business doesn't
mean boring at
Wyndham Grand
Yangon.

Whether you’re
traveling for work or
play, if you need a room
for two or the whole
C O U R T E S Y O F W Y N D H A M G R A N D YA N G O N

brood, this year’s hotel

guide has got you
covered. We’ve sorted
the following pages by
the way you travel, from
decadent beach villas to
practical business
hotels and everything
in between. >>

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019


 the
/ guıde/ H O T E L S G U I D E 2 0 1 9
VIETNAM
Amansara can JW Marriott Phu Quoc
organize a Emerald Bay Resort &
private dinner at Spa The one-of-a-kind design
one of Siem
Reap’s temples.
at this Bill Bensley haven
makes a creative backdrop for
events you want etched in
your memory. The university-
themed five-star resort has
plenty of venues for festive
nights: feast at the Pink Pearl
fine-dining restaurant; have a
dance at the waterfront, jazz
band–playing Chemistry Bar;
or take in golden sunsets at
the open-air Red Rum
restaurant. The suites make
intimate sea-view stays for
honeymooners; blowout group
parties should book Lamarck
House, a 1,300-square-meter,
seven-bedroom expanse with
marble bathrooms, 24-hour
room service and a 50-meter
infinity pool. jwmarriottphu
quocresort.com; doubles from
$400; Lamarck House from
$10,000. — ELOISE BASUKI

INDONESIA
The Apurva Kempinski
Bali It may be the new kid on
the block, but there’s nothing
neophyte about this lavish
Nusa Dua property.
Beachfront and exquisitely
appointed with contemporary
Indonesian wood-carvings,
ikat textiles and three pools,
this 475-room luxury hotel
makes for a memorable
escape. Private villas come
with their own plunge pool and
some suites offer direct
access to the resort’s

SPECIAL
jewel-toned lagoon. Share a
romantic meal of local lobster
at seafood-themed Koral
Restaurant, soon to be the

OCCASION
island’s first aquarium dining
experience, or slip into the
Japanese-style spa. For extra
special days, the oceanfront
wedding chapels make a
These intimate, extravagant and scenic place to say “I do.”
COURTESY OF AMANSARA

picturesque resorts are just the spot kempinski.com; doubles from

to celebrate those once-in-a-lifetime $185. — JENNY HEWET T
moments.
CAMBODIA
Amansara, Siem Reap
The 1960s are regarded as a
gilded period of prosperity and


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM *Prices throughout are listed in U.S. dollars for ease of comparison.
 peace for Cambodia. And the
Amansara abounds with
callbacks to this so-called
Golden Era. Once a royal
guesthouse, the elegant
low-rise collection of rooms
was used by late monarch
King Sihanouk to host
notables such as Jackie
Kennedy and actor Peter
O’Toole. Aman’s signature
panache means today’s guests
will feel every bit as pampered
as their celebrity
predecessors. The brand’s
curated experiences—ranging
from cooking classes to
powwows with Siem Reap’s
cultural movers and shakers—
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E A P U R VA K E M P I N S K I B A L I ; C O U R T E S Y O F M U A N G L A L O D G E ; C O U R T E S Y O F J W M A R R I O T T P H U Q U O C ; C O U R T E S Y O F R A E S O N WAT E G O S
are all very now. But retro-
style décor throughout and
the property’s spectacular
circular restaurant—formerly
a dancehall—are grist to any
James Bond fantasy. Further
period allure is displayed in
the airport pick-up service
where guests are whisked to
the property in one of
Sihanouk’s 1960s Mercedes
sedans. Very groovy indeed.
aman.com; doubles from
$1,500. — DUNCAN FORGAN
LAOS
Muang La Lodge Tucked
into a gentle curve of the Nam
Pak River in mountainous
northern Laos is Muang La
Lodge, a remote luxury
bolt-hole known for its
thermal baths, enchanting
setting and off-piste trails.
Just 10 wooden garden villas
with verandas, all unplugged
from modern life, feature
1930s-style furniture and
local crafts. Spend days
cycling or wandering green
paddies in search of rural
views meeting traditionally
dressed Khamu, Akha and
Ikhos locals with an expert
guide. Stroll across a bamboo
bridge to the secluded lodge
pool on a private river island;
sink into hot tubs pumped with
the area’s natural thermal
spring; try orchard-to-table
dining in the candle-lit garden;
or settle into a pampered
slumber with massages at the
spa. muangla.com; minimum
two-night stay $459 per
person, all-inclusive.
— CL AIRE BOOBBYER
JAPAN
Fufu Kawaguchiko
Opened last autumn, this
elegant 32-room newcomer
overlooks Lake Kawaguchi in
Yamanashi Prefecture, just Traditional
two hours from Tokyo. It may gebyok carvings
be close to wineries, ice-caves at The Apurva
Kempinski Bali.
and lava tubes, but the
awe-inspiring views of
mist-shrouded Mount Fuji
from your plant-filled room’s
private volcanic-stone onsen
will make leaving your
comfortable cocoon difficult.
The staff speak exceptional
English, and are especially
adept at demystifying
omotenashi (Japanese
hospitality) by explaining Chef Riverside
dining at
Hoshino’s and theatrical
Muang La
kaiseki meals (like Fuji sakura Lodge, in Laos.
pork seared tableside on lava
stone with blueberry butter; Twilight at Red
kettle-cooked conger eel; and Rum, JW
firewood ice cream to be Marriott Phu
finished at the outdoor fire-pit Quoc.
in your cozy gray yukata robe).
fufukawaguchiko.jp; doubles
from $835. — ADAM H. GR AHAM
AUSTRALIA
Raes on Wategos, Byron
Bay If the sound of waves
crashing doesn’t lull you to
sleep at this waterfront
hideaway on Byron Bay’s
coveted Wategos Beach, the
four-poster bed surely will.
With just seven suites and two
luxury penthouses, this newly
revamped escape feels like it
leapt off the pages of a
romance novel. Raes Dining
Room focuses on food that’s The sun-lit
terrace at Raes
equally poetic, plating up
on Wategos,
everything from Fraser Island Byron Bay.
crab spaghetti to spicy tuna
with Fuji apple, lap cheong and
lemon. Designed for two, the
one-bedroom penthouse is
made up of marbled floors, a
sunken bath and a light-filled
atrium, plus Byron’s iconic
ocean, headland and
lighthouse views. raes.com.au;
doubles from $463. — J.H.
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019

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FAMILY
HOLIDAY
We know it’s no easy feat to
vacation with multiple people, ages
and energy levels, so here are
some of our favorite hotels where
everyone can get their kicks.

Club Med Bintan

has activities for
everyone.

INDONESIA two children, two-night CAMBODIA escape for traveling families,

Club Med Bintan, Bintan
Island This all-inclusive
family resort sits beachfront
on Indonesia’s Bintan Island,
just an hour from Singapore.
White sands, long sweeping
shores and an endless array of
fitness activities make for a
rejuvenating vacation the
whole clan will fondly
remember. Master your skills
in everything from archery,
flying trapeze and golf, to
sailing, snorkeling and
paddleboarding. As well as a
family-friendly buffet and a la
carte options spanning the
gamut of international eats,
there are a handful of poolside
minimum. — J.H.
VIETNAM
Vinpearl Resort & Spa
Long Beach Nha Trang
Overlooking Bai Dai beach, on
the fringes of Cam Ranh Bay in
southern Vietnam, the two-,
three- and four-bedroom villas
at this luxe resort are spacious
enough (300 square meters
should do it) to ensure a
wholly relaxing stay, even with
kids in the next room over.
While adults can bliss out in
the lakeside Akoya Spa or hit
the 18-hole beachfront golf
course, young ones will be
forever entertained at nearby
Vinpearl Land, a sprawling
Le Relais de Chhlong The
otherwise somnolent Mekong
River town of Chhlong has
been given an unexpected jolt
of energy with the opening of
this romantic, waterfront
retreat. The former residence
of a French governor, this
stately yellow-hued mansion
positively reeks of period
charm. The property, which
has been painstakingly
restored to its former pomp,
exudes colonial-era charisma
in everything from its ornate
stone balustrades to the
ceiling fans that whir
overhead, and the fresh-baked
croissants and pains au
while expeditions to spot the
elusive Irrawaddy dolphins
exclusive to this stretch of the
river are a kid-friendly
highlight not to be missed.
relaisdechhlong.com; doubles
from $109. — D.F.
LAOS
Pullman Luang Prabang
With the feel of a small village
encircled by paddy-field views,
Pullman Luang Prabang
masters its space with a
wealth of activities devoted to
kids. Amid greenery threaded
with wandering paths and
streams, there’s a pool for
infants, and another with a
waterslide (plus an infinity
C O U R T E S Y O F C L U B M E D B I N TA N

terraces at which to unwind. chocolat served at breakfast.

While you sip mojitos, the little
ones can keep entertained
with cooking classes and
crafts at the complimentary
kids’ club (for four- to
10-year-olds). clubmed.com.
au; from $1,184 per night
all-inclusive for two adults and
island theme park with
thrilling rides, a variety of
ocean activities and
waterslides, plus a bird park
and the largest botanical
gardens in the country.
vinpearl.com; two-bedroom
villas from $273. — E.B.
You don’t need to be a
Francophile, though, to
appreciate a gorgeous outdoor
pool and giant suites with
exquisite furnishing and
terraces overlooking the
Mekong. The sizeable rooms
make the hotel a perfect
pool, for the adults, of course).
The Kids’ Club, the only one of
its kind in this increasingly
popular city, entertains tots
and teens with books, games
and toys at an indoor
playground. Where it really
shines is with its diverse class


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM


offerings in crafts, baking and
fitness—think hula-hoops,
face painting and waffle-
making. An introduction to
their Lao holiday destination
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U T R S Y O F F O U R S E A S O N S ; C O U R T E S Y O F F E S T I V E H O T E L ;
sees kids garden, feed fish and
cultivate rice through
workshops in the field. Adults
sleep easy, too, with
interconnecting rooms, or
C O U R T E S Y O F P U L L M A N L U A N G P R A B A N G ; C O U R T E S Y O F AVA N I + S A M U I
extra beds in Deluxe-suite
living rooms just a skip, hop
and jump to all the playground
fun. pullman-luangprabang.
com; doubles from $135. — C.B.
THAILAND
Avani+ Samui Basking in
the sun-soaked shores of
Phang Ka beach, on Koh
Samui’s quieter Taling Ngan
side, the new rooms and villas
by Avani’s premium brand
Avani+ feel just like your own
private beach house.
Whitewashed wooden ceilings,
a private deck with infinity
pool and cozy linens may
tempt you to stay in-villa, but
The Nail Bar at
Four Seasons
Hong Kong.
A new Pool
Villa at Avani+
Samui.
you really shouldn’t—free
access to kayaks,
paddleboards and mountain
bikes offer adventures to
nearby mangroves, waterfalls
and villages. For a scenic
daytrip, hop on a longtail boat
and snorkel off the pristine
white sands of Koh Madsum
and Koh Tan just 15 minutes
away. Essence restaurant
offers dinner with beach
views, while drinks are poured
in the cutest cocktail truck, a
batik-patterned Combi van
that parks itself poolside.
avanihotels.com; doubles from
$127. — E.B.
SINGAPORE
Festive Hotel, Resorts
World Sentosa Festive
Hotel scores points with
families for the smorgasbord
of activities available within a
stone’s throw: it’s just steps
away from Southeast Asia’s
only Universal Studios theme
park, S.E.A. Aquarium (one of
Festive
Hotel’s Family
Room.
Lush living at
Pullman Luang
Prabang.
the world’s largest aquariums)
and Adventure Cove
Waterpark (where high-speed
waterslides and swimming
with dolphins and sharks
await). Not to mention the
kids’ club and a dedicated kids’
pool and wet play area, and a
staggering array of dining
(from hawker fare to Michelin-
star dining), shopping and
entertainment options, so
there’s always something to
do. While all the rooms here
are designed with families in
mind, our pick is the Deluxe
Family room, which comes
with tailored bathrobes and a
kid-friendly loft bed.
rwsentosa.com; doubles from
$440. — SHAMILEE VELLU
HONG KONG
Four Seasons Hotel Hong
Kong Swish hotels often
aren’t the most welcoming
places for their smallest
guests, but Four Seasons
Hotel Hong Kong defies
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019
convention by rolling out the
red carpet for families. Upon
arrival, children will find
petit-sized amenities such as
kids’ toiletries, robes and
slippers, while turndown
brings healthy snacks (such as
sugar-free chocolate ganache
cookies or homemade gummy
bears made with fresh fruit)
and a cuddly stuffed toy.
Blankets, diapers, bottle
sterilizers and diaper pails are
provided at no charge.
Children’s menus are available
at all of the hotel’s
restaurants, and tots aged
three and up are even
welcome at Michelin three-
starred Lung King Heen and
Caprice. Also useful:
connecting rooms, two
full-sized outdoor pools (with
ample pool toys) and a newly
launched in-room destination
guidebook with a section
dedicated to family-friendly
activities. fourseasons.com;
doubles from $548. — S.V.


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MILLENNIAL-
MINDED
Low-budget, high-design, next-gen hotels
have begun to sweep Asia, an on-trend fit
for digital nomads, flashpackers and
aesthetes alike.
LAOS
Lao Poet, Vientiane
Salon De Co A funky little find in the Lao
restaurant at
capital with a glamorous
Ovolo Incholm,
Brisbane. rooftop infinity pool, Lao Poet
comes with all the style cred
its Luang Prabang sister
retreat, Satri House, is
renowned for. Wallpaper of
glossy palms backdrop the 55
bedrooms bedecked in paper
lanterns, velvet spreads,
cushions in jewel tones, plus
desks for digital nomads.
Antiques are paired with
1930s repro leather chairs and
Arco-style floor lamps in the
lobby, while botanical prints
and chandeliers adorn the
dining room. Lao Poet sits on a
quiet street in downtown
Vientiane, its location perfect
for the sights, and the growing
DJs make a
party vibe at coffee and restaurant scene.
Canggu hotel Grab a free bike offered by the
The Slow. hotel, or drink in the sunset
from the infinity pool terrace.
laopoethotel.com; doubles
from $100. — C.B.
INDONESIA
The Slow, Bali Creatives
work hard and play slow at
this stylish boutique stay in
Bali’s happening Canggu. A
cultured oasis on buzzy Jalan
Batu Bolong, The Slow has
just 12 spacious, design-led
rooms that are oozing with
inspiration, plus a rooftop bar
and relaxed all-day diner with
power points, fast Wi-Fi and
good coffee. There are no
The plant- obvious distractions, such as
filled lobby of TVs or even a communal pool,
Lao Poet, in instead the regular art
Vientiane. exhibitions and curated tunes

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
from L.A.-based Reverberation
Radio point to a deeper level of
sophistication. When you’re
not tapping away on your
laptop, some of the island’s
best yoga studios and
beachfront sunsets are only a
five-minute walk away.
theslow.id; doubles from $191.
— J.H.
AUSTRALIA
Ovolo Incholm, Brisbane
Nothing is more evident of
Brisbane’s breezy renaissance
than this new-look boutique
stay in Incholm in the heart of
the city. The hotel, rebranded
last year to Ovolo Incholm
after a complete makeover,
marries electic Art-Deco
interiors reflective of the
building’s 1930s heritage with
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF OVOLO INCHOLM; COURTESY OF THE SLOW; COURTESY OF L AO POET
next-gen perks to entice
modern travelers. Guests
can enjoy a range of
complimentary services,
including free happy hour and
breakfast (when you reserve
your room on their website),
access to a 24-hour gym, free
laundry service, superfast
Wi-Fi and all-day snacks. The
in-room mini-bar is also yours
for the taking—as good a
reason as any to take
advantage of that late
checkout. ovolohotels.com.au;
doubles from $130. — J.H.
CHINA
Hotel Jen, Beijing
A co-living concept by
Shangri-La, Hotel Jen is a
modern haven in the Chinese
capital that focuses squarely
on the needs of the >>
 the
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freelancer generation. The
hotel prides itself on its
super-fast Wi-Fi throughout
the property; its central
location connected to the
China World Trade Center
Complex and the China World
Mall; and its two-level,
24-hour, 3,500-square-meter
fitness center that offers
pilates, spin classes and even
an MMA boxing ring. Rooms
are filtered with an air-
purification system and are
fitted with roomy
workstations, coffee makers
and international power
sockets; guests in hotel suites
get free breakfast, buffet
dinner and drinks, and access
to Prototype, the hotel’s
320-square-meter co-working
lounge. hoteljen.com; doubles
from $200. — E.B.
JAPAN
Marriott Moxy
Honmachi, Osaka
Marriott hits a millennial home
run with this new 155-room
Moxy property, which opened
last year. The hotel occupies a
former 11-story undergarment
warehouse in Osaka’s
shabby-chic Honmachi
district, minutes away from
the station and chock-a-block
with izakaya and kushikatsu
joints. An industrial chic décor
is found throughout, with
exposed brick walls, white
subway tiles, tin bath stools,
timber veneer, old-fashioned
phones and wall-mounted
luggage racks, tables and
chairs (tweaked from the
original Yabu Pushelberg
designs, but executed by local
firm Wise Labo). Free Wi-Fi
and a 24/7 gym sweeten the
deal. A DJ and a rowdy
gathering of laptop workers in
the lobby will not affect the
peace and quiet of your room.
marriott.com; doubles from
$150. — A.H.G.
HONG KONG
The Upper House It’s no
small feat that the Upper
House has managed to stay
cutting-edge despite turning

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
Hotel Jen
towers over
Beijing.
10 this year. Little wonder,
really, considering how the
Andre-Fu–designed hotel
continues to tick all the boxes
for design acolytes. Its 117
tastefully styled rooms (which
start from 67 square meters
for a standard room) are
especially spacious for Hong
Kong, and several are corner
The Upper House
suites offering jaw-dropping has enviable views
panoramic island and harbor of Victoria Harbour.
views. Instagram opportunities
abound here, ranging from the
famously huge bathrooms
(and incredible bathtub views)
to the private dining alcoves at
Café Grey Deluxe that extend
over the city 49 floors up. The
elegant yet intimate book-
filled Sky Lounge on the same
floor, meanwhile, also
regularly hosts casual
discussions by renowned
tastemakers such as Yabu
Pushelberg and Christian
Louboutin. upperhouse.com;
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F H O T E L J E N ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E U P P E R H O U S E ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A R R I O T T; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E G R E AT M A D R A S
doubles from $662. — S.V. Communal areas
feel like home at
SINGAPORE Marriott Moxy
Honmachi, Osaka.
The Great Madras
Designed to warm the cockles
of any card-carrying
millennial’s heart, The Great
Madras is a colorful 35-room
conservation project that fully
embraces its history and
location in vibrant Little India.
Its staggering array of photo
opps will make an
Instagrammer’s head spin: will
it be shoefies on the
geometric-tiled floors? Selfies
in the barbershop or against
the numerous neon signs or
outdoor pool? Or #foodporn Boutique charm in
Singapore’s Little India.
shots of halal Catalonian-style
tapas? While rooms are small,
they make up for it with style
and charm. Design-philes will
also note the cleverly laid out
hostel rooms (in which doors
slide closed to form private
rooms) and the open-layout
lobby that has been
thoughtfully constructed to
function as the neighborhood’s
“living room,” where locals
and visitors alike can mingle
and trade a story or two.
thegreatmadras.com; doubles
from $89. — S.V. >>
 Noku Maldives

Noku Kyoto Noku Maldives Noku Osaka

At home in Noku
Attentive service. Friendly faces.
Comfortable experiences. Quiet spaces.

www.nokuhotels.com | Enquiries@nokuhotels.com
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BUSINESS TRIP
AUSTRALIA
QT Perth Moments from
Swan River in Perth’s
revitalized CBD, this new
urban hotel makes an ideal
base for suits who don’t like to Traveling on the job doesn’t have to be boxy and boring.
sacrifice on style. With its
These upscale hotels do the hard work for you, leaving
slick rooftop bar (the highest
in Perth), Italian-themed
more time to enjoy your surroundings.
Santini Bar & Grill steakhouse,
and multiple events rooms,
this artful stay is the perfect
mix of business and pleasure.
Australiana design accents of
cockatoo wallpaper and native
motifs keep it local and
lighthearted, while the
in-room espresso machines,
free pilates classes and fully
kitted-out gym appeal to those
religious about their routine.
qthotelsandresorts.com;
doubles from $115. — J.H.

MALAYSIA Spend the end of

Four Seasons Kuala
Lumpur No expense is
spared at this sky-high
five-star just a few steps away
from the Petronas Towers.
Suites are spacious,
sophisticated and functional
for in-room working; the
24-hour business center has
all your admin jobs covered;
and the Executive Club lounge
offers all-day refreshments,
two hours of meeting space in
the club-floor boardroom,
complimentary dry cleaning
and 15 percent off treatments
at the hotel’s two-story spa.
Entertain clients over dim sum
at Yun House, or Malaysian-
focused drinks at Bar Trigona.
fourseasons.com; doubles from
$215. — E.B.
BURMA
Wyndham Grand Yangon
This luxury outpost in the
heart of Burma’s commercial
capital has all the trimmings.
Oversized rooms have Wi-Fi,
large desk space and a
Bluetooth-supported speaker
a long workday
on the rooftop
bar at QT Perth.
Kandawgyi Lake, with a
500-delegate Grand Ballroom
for cocktail receptions. Take
advantage of the Executive
Club Floors, which includes
exclusive access to the
Executive Lounge: buffet
breakfast, evening cocktails
and free meeting-room use.
wyndhamgrandyangon.com;
doubles from $112. — E.B.
THAILAND
Marriott Marquis
Bangkok Located in the
heaving center of Bangkok,
this 1,388-room hotel provides
easy access to the city (and a
luxury retreat from its
mayhem) just a short walk
from multiple public transport
stations. The 1,300-person
ballroom offers one of the
largest spaces in the city, and
the 35 meeting rooms are all
designed to feel like private
residences. Events will go
the sweeping vistas at the
gin-forward rooftop AB Bar.
After work, stay in for dinner
at the culinary whirlwind that
is Akira Back, the always-
satisfying Soba Factory, or the
classic Cantonese restaurant,
Pagoda Chinese. marriott.com;
doubles from $126. — E.B.
HONG KONG
Kerry Hotel Another sleek
showpiece by starchitect
Andre Fu, Kerry Hotel offers
iconic views of Victoria
Harbour. It boasts the largest
hotel meeting, event and
catering facilities in the city:
the 1,756-square-meter Grand
Ballroom is Hong Kong’s
largest pillar-free hotel
ballroom and also contains its
largest LED wall. The 17
meeting spaces in the
Shangri-La-owned property
also include the Presidential
Suite and the open terrace of
station make it a convenient
choice. shangri-la.com;
doubles from $216. — S.V.
SINGAPORE
Ascott Orchard
Singapore One of Ascott’s
six serviced residences in
Singapore, Ascott Orchard
stands out for its fashionable
pedigree. Set in the heart of
famed shopping belt Orchard
Road, it’s the island’s first
serviced residence to offer
eight Fendi Casa–furnished
penthouse suites. Other suites
come in studio, one- and
two-bedroom layouts, with 47
dual-key units that allow
guests to create a three-
bedroom layout, ideal for
those traveling in large
groups. Services include
access to a business center, a
smartphone with data, Wi-Fi,
pool, gym and resident’s
lounge (with fully equipped
COURTESY OF QT PERTH

telephone, on top of comforts
like coffeemakers and marble
bathrooms. Conference and
meeting rooms spread
throughout the 20-story
property overlooking
down without a hitch with
top-notch AV equipment, fully
customizable catering options,
and the Marriott’s online
attendee booking system.
Clients will be impressed by
Red Sugar Bar, which has a
270-degree wraparound
terrace that’s perfect for
networking sundowners. Five
different F&B spaces and
quick access to an MTR
kitchen). Conveniences such
as airport transfers, parking
and meal deliveries are
available for an extra cost.
the-ascott.com; doubles from
$214. — S.V. >>



MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
Find us on WeChat:
TAKE YOUR TASTE BUDS ON
A RETREAT
Plethora of resorts to stay, fun-filled things to do, delightful local food to eat & endless
new discoveries to make. A tropical island paradise, just 60 minutes away from Singapore!

Visit Us: bintan-resorts.com bintanresorts

 the
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PHILIPPINES
Okada Manila This

ENTERTAINMENT
gleaming, gilt structure
fronting Manila Bay is an
all-under-one-roof theater,
nightclub, gaming complex,
dining hub and shopping
If you’re looking for a resort that can bring the spectacle to you, these glitzy
district. Dance the night (and
pleasure palaces offer shows, shopping, seaside adventures and more. day) away at beach/nightclub
Cove Manila, sift through top
brand boutiques at the Crystal
Corridor, and pick from 21
lavish eateries, from refined
Italian or robata-style
Japanese to 24-hour dim sum.
Some offer views of Okada’s
enormous fountain, which
shoots 700 water jets in time
with 2,000 colored lights and
booming tunes. okadamanila.
com; doubles from $280. — E.B.

MACAU
The Parisian Macao
With access to some of the
region’s hottest concerts,
cabaret performances and
stunt shows, plus 850 shops,
150 restaurants and an Eiffel
Tower replica, The Parisian
Macao has pretty much got
you covered for fun. Little
ones won’t get bored either:
Aqua World offers waterslides
and pirate ships; Qube
Kingdom fills 1,900 square
meters of indoor-outdoor play
areas with jungle gyms,
climbing nets and a ball pit.
parisianmacao.com; doubles
from $124. — E.B.

JAPAN
Bella Vista Spa and
Marina Hotel Onomichi
From the owners of Setouchi
Seaplanes and luxury cruise
ship Guntû, this superbly
located resort overlooking the
Seto Sea regales its guests
with the wonders of the great
outdoors. A Maserati or BMW
car loan will get you around in
style as will the full service
COURTESY OF OK ADA MANIL A

marina offering a variety of

boating trips, from sunset
cruises and uninhabited-island
Okada Manila's Cove
picnics to fishing charters and
nightclub features a Jet Skiing. A refurb last year
30-meter-tall, UV- now offers modernized rooms
reflective glass dome. and a new spa. bella-vista.jp/
en; doubles from $275. — A.H.G.


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

DEALS

T+L READER SPECIALS

OUTDOOR
THAILAND
Pimalai
This month’s deals leave zero time for boredom, showing off all Explore the jewels of the
Andaman Sea with a diving
these hotels have to offer: luxe diving in Thailand, a golf getaway in package from luxe Koh Lanta
Vietnam and a celebration to remember in Siem Reap, for starters. resort Pimalai. The four-day
package includes a one-day
dive trip to Koh Haa—a group
of five islets famous for their
crystal-clear waters, pristine
corals and variety of marine
life—with two dives, a full set
of dive equipment and National
Marine Park entry fee included.
Guests will also get three
nights’ accommodation; daily
breakfast; a three-course
dinner at Seven Seas
Restaurant; a one-hour aroma
massage per person; unlimited
high-speed Wi-Fi; and airport
transfers. The Deal Diving
Package: three nights in a
deluxe room from Bt43,590,
through April 30. pimalai.com.

VIETNAM
The Anam
Spend a long weekend on the
green and gold, with this
golfing package from beach
beauty The Anam in Cam Ranh.
The three-night package
includes accommodation in a
Balcony Garden View room;
two rounds at the newly
opened, Greg Norman–
designed, 18-hole KN Gold
Links; daily free cocktail hour
at the Beach Club; a five-
course dinner at The Colonial
with wine and live music; a

FROM TOP: COURTESY OF PIMAL AI; COURTESY OF THE SHANGHAI EDITION

guided night tour of Nha Trang
on a Vespa; a unique Mama’s
Dive the Cooking experience conducted
coral-rich Koh
by six mothers of the hotel
Haa islands
with Pimalai. staff who cook up a traditional
Vietnamese feast for guests; a
private yoga lesson; daily
buffet breakfast; and airport
transfers. The Deal Golf and
SUPERSAVER Dine package: three nights in a
The Shanghai Edition, China Balcony Garden View room,
from US$1,435, through
Treat yourself to bed and breakfast at Shanghai’s new designer
December 26. theanam.com.
home away from home. Spend the night in one of their sleekly
furnished rooms, some with Bund views, and spend the next CITY
morning feasting at the hotel’s Shanghai Tavern, a European HONG KONG
restaurant by Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton. The Deal The Landmark
Bed & Breakfast: a night in a Deluxe room, from RMB1,888, Mandarin Oriental
through December 31. editionhotels.com. If you’re looking to spoil


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

 yourself, take a day off for this
relaxing escape. The deal
includes a full 24-hour stay in
one of the hotel’s Joyce
Wang–designed guestrooms;
daily buffet breakfast at MO
Bar or other hotel venues; a
dining or spa credit of
HK$1,000 per stay when
booking a L600 series room, or
credit of HK$2,000 when
booking a L900 Landmark
suite; use of the heat and water
relaxation facilities, gym and
pool at The Oriental Spa;
upgrade to the Sanctuary Suite
for a 90-minute spa experience
for two; complimentary room
cleaning charge for stay with
one pet; overnight parking for
one vehicle; and more. The
Deal Central Staycation: a
night in a L600 deluxe room,
from HK$5,700, through
December 30.
mandarinoriental.com.
CHINA
The Temple House
Combine your city stay with a
dose of Chengdu culture via
this holistic experience from
designer boutique hotel The
Temple House. The three-night
package includes
accommodation for two; daily
breakfast; a guided cycling tour
of the city for two; a one-hour
Signature Bamboo massage,
which uses a combination of
traditional bamboo canes and
hand strokes to ease muscle
tension, for two; and a
Teahouse hotpot set dinner for
two. A guided tour of the
Chengdu Giant Panda
Research Base can also be
arranged at an additional cost.
The Deal Check in to Chengdu
package: three nights in a
Studio 60 room, from US$930.
thetemplehousehotel.com.
COURTESY OF THE TEMPLE HOUSE
THAILAND
COMO Metropolitan
Bangkok
If you love Thai cuisine, add a
Michelin-starred meal to your
next Bangkok trip. Guests at
the COMO Metropolitan
Bangkok can take advantage
of this offer that includes a
tasting menu at nahm
restaurant; daily breakfast at
Glow restaurant; a tropical
fruit plate, replenished daily;
free Wi-Fi; free daily yoga class
at COMO Shambhala Urban
Escape; and more. The Deal
The nahm Experience: a night
in City room, from Bt7,360
(single occupancy), Bt10,160
(double occupancy).
comohotels.com.
SOUTH KOREA
Shilla Seoul
Your next business trip to
Seoul won’t be a drag with this
exclusive offer for working
guests. The package includes a
night in an Executive Business
Deluxe room with Executive
Lounge access. The top-floor
Executive Lounge provides
fully equipped meeting rooms
as well as complimentary
dining throughout the day
including a healthy breakfast,
light snacks, afternoon tea and
happy hour. From 6 p.m. to 10
p.m. guests at the lounge can
enjoy free-flow alcoholic
beverages and soft drinks. The
Deal Business Plan package: a
night in an Executive Business
Deluxe room, from W390,000,
through June 30.
shillahotels.com.
Explore The
Temple House’s
heritage design.
SPECIAL OCCASION
CAMBODIA
Shinta Mani Shack
Celebrate your nuptials in the
sacred surrounds of Siem Reap.
The three-night wedding
package includes
accommodation for two in a
Poolview King room; a
romantic candlelit dinner with
free-flow wine; a relaxing
pre-wedding, three-hour spa
treatment featuring a body
scrub, oil massage, floral bath
and a facial; a rejuvenating
post-wedding spa “pamper-
your-partner” treatment,
where you’ll take a hands-on
approach and learn how to
massage your betrothed; a
traditional spiritual wedding
ceremony with an entourage of
Chorng Dai (traditional Khmer
wedding music) and a blessing
by a monk; floral decorations
with six flower displays, a
flower arch, fire torches,
bride’s bouquet and groom’s
buttonhole, floral ring holder
and scattered fresh rose
petals; a special cocktail for
the bride and groom; canapés;
four-hour professional digital
photography session, including
a souvenir wedding album and
all original digital photos; and
lunch for two at Kroya
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019
including beer and soft drinks.
The bride and groom will also
get daily breakfast; in-room
Wi-Fi; private round-trip airport
transfers; and fast track
immigration on arrival. The
Deal Spiritual Wedding
Blessing Package: three nights
in a Poolview King room, from
US$5,596, through December
31. shintamani.com.
THAILAND
SO Bangkok
Party like a celebrity and invite
your crew to a soiree in your
very own VIP Duplex suite at
SO Bangkok. Your exclusive
package includes three hours
of free-flow wine and beer and
a selection of six appetizers,
and a personal butler for your
party for up to four hours. The
Cozy Circle package is suitable
for up to 10 people; while the
Double Trouble package can
accommodate up to 20 guests.
As part of the package, you’ll
also get one-night’s
accommodation in the SO VIP
Duplex suite and breakfast and
Club Signature benefits for
four people. The Deal Cozy
Circle package, from Bt70,000;
Double Trouble package, from
Bt100,000; through December
28. so-sofitel-bangkok.com.

 MARCH 2019

T H E U LT I M AT E I N PA L AT I A L D I G S ?
A C T UA L PA L A C E S . . . A N D F O R T S
AND MANORS. SLEEP LIKE A KING
IN THESE NEW BOUTIQUES IN

RAJASTHAN
P. 76

A N E W C L A S S O F P R I VAT E - I S L A N D
RESORTS IS NOT JUST FOR
ROMANCE; THEY ALSO MAKE FOR A
G R E AT FA M I LY G E TAWAY T O

FIJI
P. 84

A CIT Y WITHOUT A CENTER

NEEDN’T L ACK A SOUL. JUST ASK
T H E L O C A L S W H O C O N G R E G AT E I N
T H E H I G H E S T- E N D H O T E L S O F

LOS ANGELES
P. 96
COURTESY OF ALIL A FORT BISHANGARH

Alila Fort
Bishangarh towers
high on a granite
bluff in Rajasthan,
page 76.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019 

 Fit For
a RajaRAJASTHAN IS LITTERED WITH THE FORMER
FORTS, CASTLES AND CHATEAUX OF THE RAJPUT
MAHARAJAS WHO RULED THE REGION FOR
CENTURIES. ON A ROYAL TOUR OF NEW PALATIAL
DIGS TURNED INTO HERITAGE HOTELS, RACHNA
SACHASINH FINDS LUXURIOUS RENEWAL
PROJECTS THAT MANAGE TO CONJURE THE
COMMUNITY SPIRIT OF FAR HUMBLER ABODES.

R A N VA S N A G A U R & M E H R A N G A R H M U S E U M T R U S T. O P P O S I T E : C O U R T E S Y O F R A A S D E V I G A R H
 RAAS Devigarh is the
palace residence that
started a movement.
OPPOSITE: Ranvas at
Nagaur is built into the
former quarters of the
maharaja’s concubines.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019

 CLOCKWISE FROM
ABOVE: Breakfast at
Narendra Bhawan
Bikaner; the Prince’s
room, Narendra
Bhawan Bikaner;
Ranvas at Nagaur sits
in the sprawling
Nagaur Fort; Alila Fort
Bishangarh; a bedroom
in Le Prince Haveli; the
rock-cut pool of
Lakshman Sagar by
Sewara; a local liquor
tasting at Lakshman
Sagar by Sewara.

My first
memories of
Rajasthan are
CLO CK W I SE FRO M TO P LE FT : CO U RT ESY O F N A RE ND RA BHAWA N BI K A NE R ( 2 ); R A N VAS NAGAUR & ME HR A NGA R H M U SEUM T RUST ;
tied up with
CO URT ESY O F A L IL A FO RT BI S HA N GA RH; C OURTESY O F LE PR I NCE H AVE LI ; C O URTESY O F L A KS H MA N SAGA R BY SE WA RA (2 )
golden mustard
fields, turmeric
hills and a
slobbering water buffalo. It was the mid-1990s,
and I was a graduate student investigating
heirloom millet seeds—the region’s primary
grain crop—and living in an unfinished brick
house on the outskirts of Jhunjhunu, back then
a dusty market town clamoring with chai and
sabji wallahs, metalsmiths, rickety bicycles,
camel carts and listless cows. My hosts
Phoolchand Dhewa and his wife Ram Kauri
put me up in a closet-sized room outfitted with
a charpoy—a narrow wooden frame bench
strung with thick woven rope—and a light,
homemade razai or quilt stuffed with cotton
and wool. The room’s only window opened onto
a scrappy manger belonging to Kaveri, the
family’s stocky milking buffalo. A steadfast
roommate, Kaveri nuzzled me awake at dawn,
right before milking time when colorfully
dressed village ladies balancing metal pots on
their heads arrived to buy milk.
By day, Phoolchand and I traipsed the
countryside, a patchwork of waist-high millet
and mustard fields broken up here and there
by the encroaching Thar Desert, which
blankets the state’s western hinterland. Sitting
cross-legged under the shade of peepal trees in
the maidan, or village square, I interviewed
farmers who explained the challenges of rural
living and the steady creep of modernization.
Clad in teetering magenta or saffron turbans
and sporting well-coiffed moustaches—
Rajasthani menfolk equate a well-groomed
handlebar with virility—these farmers took
their hand-to-mouth livelihood in stride,
grinning broadly and serving tray after tray of
sweet masala chai, tangy yogurt lassi and
homemade jaggery so caramel-y it would make
millennial foodies swoon.
In the evenings, I huddled in the outdoor
kitchen shack with Ram Kauri, helping her put
together a one-pot curry of homegrown spices,
lentils and vegetables cooked in earthy
mustard oil, which she hand-pressed with a
medieval-looking grinding stone. Then, we
rolled the faintly blue bajra or millet rotis and
cooked them over a slow-burning wood fire,
piling them up one on top of another until
there was enough for everyone. Eating with
them by candlelight, my heart swelled with
happiness. It was simple living, but it felt like a
life of kings.
In fact, Rajasthan means “land of kings.”
Straddling India’s western border with
Pakistan and sitting at the junction of ancient
caravan routes, this region was for centuries
ruled by factions of the Rajput clan—noble
warriors who knew how to fight hard and live
well. The Rajputs left behind a trail of blood-
stained battlefields, imposing fortresses, lavish
palaces and pleasure gardens that emerge like
mirages on blistering desert horizons. Once
India gained independence, however, Rajput
royals were stripped of their titles and
gradually turned their palatial digs into
heritage hotels, giving travelers a taste of
decadent maharaja living. When I left
Phoolchand and Ram Kauri’s home, I treated
myself to a stay in a handful of them. No doubt,
the palace interiors were drop-dead gorgeous
with their exuberant frescoes, marble and
gem-encrusted chambers, embroidered canopy
beds and reams of luscious silks and brocades.
I relished the pomp and frills, the platoon of
servants and, of course, the hot showers. But,
often the experiences lacked soul. The honest,
unbridled hospitality and bravura of the
Rajput personality had been scrubbed out, and
I found myself desperately missing the
heartwarming community in the countryside
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019 
and the buffalo Kaveri’s muzzle and drool.
Over the years, I kept going back, hoping that
my fondness for authentic royal and rural
Rajasthani culture could somehow merge. For
years, I came away disappointed, and then, on
my most recent trip, I stumbled upon a few
hidden-in-plain sight venues that were quietly
resuscitating Rajasthani spirit. And,
miraculously, they nailed it.
HE ORIGINAL HERITAGE
T
hotels were authentic, but then it
became overcooked,” historian-
turned-hotelier Dhananajaya
Singh explains as we sip nimbu
pani, or lemonade, in Baradari, the courtyard
restaurant of RAAS Jodhpur, a pioneering
heritage hotel and urban renewal project that
Singh and his brother Nikhilendra launched in
Jodhpur, the famous 15th-century walled city
in western Rajasthan. The turning point came
when India’s top contemporary art collector,
Lekha Poddar, renovated Devigarh, her palace
residence in Delwara, a picturesque hamlet on
the outskirts of Udaipur. Poddar embraced the
original architectural mood, but threw out the
crewel and chintz, introduced clean,
minimalist lines, incorporated modern
furniture and whittled away outdated
conventions, like small doors and windows.
“When you place contemporary elements
inside 500-year-old spaces, it creates a dialectic
that is intriguing,” Singh tells me. “It’s really
the only way to move forward.”
Strolling through RAAS Jodhpur, which
includes the hotel and an ambitious urban
renewal project called Stepwell Square—a
renovated 18th-century stepwell surrounded
by smart boutiques and eateries—Singh’s
point becomes clear. The main hotel’s 39 rooms
and suites, pillared dining halls and cozy
lounge alcoves occupy a mix of 18th century
havelis, traditional urban dwellings built
around a central courtyard, stables and
temple, and three contemporary buildings.
Old-world artisans were called in to restore the
original jali (perforated wall screens), jharokha
(overhanging enclosed balconies), carved rose
sandstone pillars and copulas. New structures,
like the Garden Wing rooms, parse minimalist
luxury with steel and glass touches,
contemporary furniture and a diehard eco-
philosophy—no plastic bottles, water-efficient
taps and a fun, electric scooter to zip around
town. Vertical slits in the façade, a twist on the
classic jali, freckle the interior courtyards with
dappled light. “Doors and windows didn’t need
to be small anymore,” Singh says as he swings
open a window in the pretty garden suite and

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
reveals hands-down Jodphur’s best view of the
15th-century Mehrangarh Fort, the former
residence and garrison belonging to the
Jodhpur maharajas, which looms high above
the walled city. “We’re not worried about
armies storming in or keeping the heat out,”
he laughs.
Once the hotel was completed, the brothers
set to work on the adjacent toorji ka jhalra, or
Stepwell Square as it’s known today. The
architecturally mesmerizing stepwell, whose
staggered flights of steps descend nearly 50
meters into blue water, was once a vital source
of water for the parched city. Back in the day,
before there was indoor plumbing, women
would come here to collect water, worship, run
errands and, no doubt, catch up on gossip of
the day. Today, however, the stepwell is like an
urban park, a shady rest stop for folks to catch
up and chill. The brothers updated the pretty
havelis surrounding the stepwell and filled
them with charming boutiques and eateries,
including India’s top clothing and lifestyle
labels such as Nicobar, Play Clan, Stepwell
Café, Rajesh Pratap Singh, and Andraab to
name a few.
Perched on the edge of toorji ka jhalra, I take
in the scene. Jodhpur is Rajasthan’s second
largest city, but it lives and breathes like a
village. RAAS Jodhpur and Stepwell Square
sits in the midst of cacophonous network of
narrow winding lanes, centuries-old grain and
spice markets, artisan guilds and quaint, blue-
tinted shophouses and temples—the blue keeps
the heat and insects away—and lays at the feet
of Mehrangarh Fort, the city’s main focal
point. Watching locals and visitors stream in
and out of the Square, taking selfies or simply
chilling, I realize Singh and his brother had
inadvertently flipped things around. They took
Jodhpur’s lofty royal legacy, which is
inextricably bound up in the fort 120 meters
overhead, and brought it down to earth.
RUISING THE RAJASTHANI
C
hinterland, I encounter similarly
inspiring and forward-thinking
heritage projects. The Alila Fort
Bishangarh, for example, is mounted
on a granite bluff, but remains connected to
the pastoral vibe of the Bishangarh village
below. Alila built new structures on the Fort’s
original footprint, creating regal suites
inspired by old Rajput and Mughal flourishes
like Tarkashi, brass inlaid in wood, and
frescoes with Thikri mirror work. There’s
plenty of new-age fusion at the tony Amarsar
dining room and vigorous gin and whiskey
tonics at the clubby Madhuveni lounge, yet the
 of the fort at Ranvas at Nagaur; an

RAAS Jodhpur’s scenic restaurant.

Lakshman Sagar by Sewara; Le Prince
Ayurvedic spa room at Alila; slow food at
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Have the run

Haveli was a former merchant’s residence;

C LO C KW I S E FRO M TO P LEF T : RA NVAS N AGAU R & ME HRA NGA RH MUS EUM T RU ST ;

CO URTESY O F A LI L A FO RT B I SH A NGA RH; CO U RT ESY O F L A KS H MA N SAGA R BY SE WA RA ;
CO URT ESY O F LE P RI NCE HAVE LI ; CO URTESY O F RA AS J O D HP U R
 CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT: Garden-
fresh fare in
Lakshman Sagar by
Sewara; the pool at
RAAS Jodhpur in
the shadow of
Mehrangarh Fort;
the restored
Stepwell Square,
also a project of the
Singh brothers; fine
dining at Narendra
Bhawan Bikaner; the
eco-chic spa at
Lakshman Sagar by
Sewara.

RAJASTHAN local clay, making my skin markets lined with

C LO C KW I S E FRO M TO P LEF T : CO URTESY O F L AKSH MA N SAGA R BY SE WA RA ; C O URT ESY O F R A AS J O D HP UR;

soft and silky for days. caravanserais, where

India is known for its opulent five-star hotel service. But in sewara.com; doubles from traders from around the
Rajasthan, set your sights on smaller brands whose pitch- US$315. world stopped in to hustle
perfect stays in historic surrounds define the term unique. RAAS Devigarh Eclectic exotic textiles, ceramics
K. N O O R- PRI YA ; NA R END RA B HAWA N BI K A NE R; CO URT ESY O F L A KS H MA N SAGA R BY S EWA R A

curated experiences ferried and spices.

Getting There
Jaipur Sanganer
International Airport has
nonstop flights from
Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.
Tourist e-visas can be
obtained online prior to
arrival at www.
indianvisaonline.gov.in.
Rajasthan’s modern road
network makes it feasible,
and enjoyable, to do a
leisurely road trip. I hired a
car and driver through India
Beat (indiabeat.co.uk). Most
luxury hotels in India offer
complimentary driver
accommodations.
Hotels
RAAS Jodhpur Set against
the backdrop of the
towering Mehrangarh Fort,
the glassy blue infinity pool
was a cool spot to unwind
after a day of exploring, as
is the decadent spa with its
excellent Ayurvedic and
Himalayan treatments, like
the Tibetan Ku Ny, which
realigned my sensory
organs. raasjodhpur.com;
doubles from US$315.
Lakshman Sagar by
Sewara Traditional
charpoys made cozy with
soft hot-pink cushions flank
the aquamarine swimming
pool, dug right into an
ancient granite boulder. An
indigenous body treatment
in the quirky and delightful
spa, housed in a water
tower, used Multani mitti,
me to sacred temples—
where I learned to do
darshan, or offer holy
prayers—and to village
guilds, including Sadhana
Workshop, a fair-trade
studio with fabulous clothes
and crafts. raasdevigarh.
com; doubles from US$308.
Alila Fort Bishangarh
Don’t be fooled by Spa
Alila’s dungeon locale! The
treatments are heavenly,
especially the Roots of
Jaipur which purifies the
skin with field-grown
turmeric, gram seed and
mustard oil. alilahotels.
com; doubles from US$400.
Narendra Bhawan
Bikaner The Merchant
Experience flung me back
in time as I explored old
narendrabhawan.com;
doubles from US$115.
Ranvas at Nagaur Guests
have the run of the fort—
whose walls have a built-in
walking path, offering a
bird’s-eye view of the
town’s donkey, sheep and
rickshaw–trafficked market
lanes and gorgeous sunsets.
ranvasnagaur.com; doubles
from US$250.
Le Prince Haveli The
atmospheric vibe here is
hard to beat, but I equally
enjoyed poking around the
medieval marketplace
village lanes lined with
crumbling, half-buried
havelis with jaw-dropping
frescoes. leprincehaveli.
com, doubles from US$50.
— R.S.
best experiences here are all about indigenous
gastronomy. My excitement peaks when the
hotel’s chef gives me a tutorial on braai, a
nomadic-inspired style of grilling marinated
mutton over an open flame. Rajasthani cuisine
evolved on the go, a mix of foraging and folding
in Silk Road influences; in other words,
whatever warriors and traders could get their
hands on. I remember Ram Kauri’s throw-it-
all-in curries, and it suddenly makes sense.
In Bikaner, a former princely state founded
in 1488, Narendra Bhawan Bikaner riffs the
swinging, smoking jacket–wearing and polo-
playing lifestyle of a modern maharaja and his
subjects. Light, playful interiors pair colonial
and Midcentury pieces with ochre Bikaner
terrazzo, imported Portuguese tiles and
artisan indigo textiles and crafts.
Over in Nagaur, an ancient caravan
crossroads rooted in a strong Sufi tradition, I
find medieval and modern sentiments
perfectly intertwined in Ranvas, whose 27
charming havelis, once the quarters of the
maharaja’s concubines, occupy a cozy niche
within 12th-century Ahhichatragarh Fort, a
sprawling complex of pleasure palaces,
gardens and darbars, or meeting halls.
Then, there is Le Prince Haveli, an
extravagant mid-19th-century merchant’s
residence in a middle-of-nowhere crossroads
deep in Shekhawati, an eastern district known
for its extravagant frescoes-adorned havelis,
where I help an international restoration team
remove the detritus and oxidation covering the
building’s hundred-year-old walls. Run by
French artist Nadine Le Prince, the lavish
vintage rooms and garden courtyards revel in
a 19th-century merchants’ sybaritic, sheesha-
smoking habits, but the vibe is quintessential
French joie de vivre muddled with folksy
Rajasthani humor and hospitality—think DJ
beats and never-ending chai and samosa
breaks. Meanwhile, Devigarh, the palace
residence that jump-started this next
generation of heritage hotels, continues to
trailblaze—this time around as RAAS
Devigarh, where the Singh brothers
impeccably cleave contemporary and nostalgic
sentiments in everything from the furniture to
the food.
AM STILL LOOKING FOR A
I
throwback to my time with Phoolchand,
Ram Kauri and Kaveri the nosy beast
when I stumble across Lakshman Sagar
by Sewara, a former 19th-century
hunting lodge-turned-luxury eco-farm-stay
tucked in the countryside between Pushkar
and Pali, and my heart swells.

“Rural Rajasthan is suffering from a feudal
hangover,” says Inderpal Kochhar, a filmmaker
who moonlights as the founder of Sewara, a
slow-life-inspired company that lifted
Lakshman Sagar from ruin. The heritage
hoopla only touches on a “thin creamy layer of
Rajput life,” he continues. “I wanted to explore
the other part of our heritage, the one that is
rooted in Rajasthan’s agrarian and tribal past.”
Sprawled across 13 hectares of scrubland
wilderness and built around a tranquil lake,
the property features 12 hand-hewn,
ecologically conceived mud and stucco cottages
and two restored havelis—the Zanana and
Mardana where the Thakur of Raipur hosted
hunting expeditions during the British Raj.
During the renovation, Kochhar pursued a
“zero-kilometer” ethos, wherein everything—
be it the eucalyptus beam inside the cottages,
the sarkhanda and kheep grasses shading the
lakeside gazebos, or the spices and vegetables
used in the kitchen—not only came from
surrounding villages but drew on local artisan
skills and problem-solving. In spite of using
simple, local materials, Kochhar has
inculcated a luxurious mien fit for kings.
Chilling in my lakeside cottage—each
comes with its own plunge pool—I watch wild
antelopes and boars mosey up to the lake,
while royal blue kingfishers, cormorants and
egrets lap the shoreline. I take long walks
around the property, traversing narrow
ravines and climbing million-year-old
boulders studded with quartz and obsidian. On
the Zanana’s rooftop terrace, I linger with
sweet masala chai, watching tawny sunrises
light up the rangy hillsides. In the Mardana’s
breezy veranda, I savor local farm grub like
khejri, guggal and raabri, curries made with
dried, herbaceous leaves and seeds. In the
nearby village, I shape clay bowls with the
village potter, corral goats with a tribal Rabari
herder (it’s harder than it looks), wait patiently
while a wizened, turbaned cobbler draws an
outline of my foot on a piece of paper and uses
it to craft a handsome pair of camel-leather
juttis, or Rajasthani loafers. There is even a
local hooch-maker, distilling an anise-flavored
liquor called saunf made from fennel seeds.
Kochhar half-jokingly calls this swathe of
Rajasthan the Badlands. “It’s like the Wild
West out here. The survivalist, frontier spirit
is deeply ingrained,” he says. He was right. The
folks I met embodied Rajasthan’s noble,
strident and humble spirit. A good-natured lot,
much like Phoolchand and Ram Kauri, they
indulged in the simple pleasures of the here
and now and were living a life just as
compelling as the maharajas.
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019
 MY KIND OF
We all dream of powder-soft, palm-fringed beaches
and crystal-clear seas, but in Fiji, these are par for the course.
After the opening of a clutch of next-level private-island resorts,
MICHAEL PATERNITI finds out what it takes to elevate a stay
from great to truly mind-blowing. PHOTOGRAPHED BY SEAN FENNESSY
PARADISE

The shoreline of
one of Fiji’s 300 or
so islands, as seen
from the air
transfer to
Kokomo Private
Island Fiji.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019


 BELOW: At the new Six
Senses Fiji, traditional
dance performances
are held on the beach
at dusk. OPPOSITE: The
Beach Shack, the guest
reception area at
Kokomo Private Island.
EFORE YOU SET OFF FOR
your private-island resort in Fiji—a
place called Vatuvara—there’s the
exertion of having to fill out a form.
“Favorite cocktail?” it asks. If you’re being honest with yourself,
the answer is: “All.” “May we stock your personal wine fridge and
mini-bar with specific items?” it inquires. You think, “Yes, specific
items are welcome—and did you just say personal wine fridge?”
Before you arrive at your private-island resort in Fiji, to your villa
with its own plunge pool and views of one of the most magnificent
oceanscapes you’ve ever laid eyes on, the resort staff would also like
to know how they can help you attain your wellness goals, and what
activities you enjoy. You can check hiking and watersports, massages
(plural!), and renewing your vows, among other options. If you pick
yoga, an on-call instructor named Cloud will be flown in by seaplane
to help turn your tense, inflexible body into a warm pretzel.
And here’s the thing. As you strike your wobbly tree pose to the
lovely encouragement of Cloud, while gazing upon the aquamarine
waters of the South Pacific, personal wine fridge stocked and ready,
you will ask yourself some very
important questions: If Fiji itself is
supposed to be paradise, could it be
that I’m experiencing something
more than paradise? This villa, this
view, this moment—is this paradise
plus one? Paradise turned up to 11?
These questions, which at the time
will seem the most reasonable in the
world, will lead you to reconsider the
meaning of that well-worn word
paradise—what it is and what it
signals in our minds. It’s a common
trope of travel, of course, used to
imply a certain color of water, a
certain softness of sand, a certain
amount of sun and spoiling.
But if you were to experience
three distinct interpretations of the
word, by visiting three lavish
private-island resorts purpose-built
to indulge your every desire, would
each one expand or diminish the
definition of paradise? And having
experienced those dreams, what
would you have learned? That’s
exactly why I went to Fiji: to find out.
LOCATED SOMEWHERE
northwest of Tonga and southwest of
Samoa, Fiji is a gorgeous insanity of
South Pacific islands and atolls—
more than 300, to be less than exact
(some come and go with the tides).
Though tourism is now the No. 1
industry, for a long time Fiji was seen
as Tahiti’s less exclusive cousin, with
great beaches and diving but not
much in the way of cushy, high-end
resorts. Whereas honeymooners
jetted to, say, Bora Bora for their
once-in-a-lifetime trip, backpackers
would arrive in Fiji and board a ferry
to one pristine island or another to
surf, catch rays and party on the
beach. Australians came for family
vacations, but Americans were far
more likely to opt for Hawaii or the
Caribbean. And for folks in Asia, of
course, the go-to high-end castaway
pick has long been the Maldives. Over
the past five years or so, though, the
number of big-spending visitors has
surged, thanks to the launch of
nonstop flights from Los Angeles,
Singapore, Hong Kong and Tokyo,
plus the opening of a clutch of new
upscale resorts to more than justify
the lengthy flights.
My wife, Sara; our youngest son,
13-year-old Nicholas; and I flew in
from Boston, meaning our flight was
a little less than nonstop. After almost
20 hours of air travel, we emerged into
fragrant, humid air, stripping off our
fleeces. A short car ride later, we came
to a marina where a boat took us out
into the watery playing fields of Fiji.
To suddenly find ourselves in that
elemental otherworld, with its salt-
laced wind, expanses of fluorescent
water, and rugged, mountain-fringed
horizon, was discombobulating, a
physical shock. It felt like the best
kind of freedom in the world.
On the transfer to our first resort,
the newly opened Six Senses Fiji on
Malolo Island, I chatted with Sam, a
member of the crew, up in the front
of the boat. After pointing out the
various world-class surf breaks we
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019



MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

passed by, Sam told me a story about
Dakuwaqa, the shark god. He said
Dakuwaqa once terrorized the
waters of Fiji, but then when he
attacked the island of Kadavu, a
goddess named Rokobakaniceva,
assuming octopus form, subdued the
shark and extracted a promise that
he would leave the people of Kadavu
alone. Sam told the story as if it had
occurred yesterday. Then, as we
approached Malolo Island, he said
that the island’s Tui Lawa, or chief,
commanded his own duo of large
sharks. If you misbehave, he said
gravely, you might get bitten by one.
When I asked if he really believed
that, he looked at me, smiling, and
said, “Of course.” He said his uncle
had often swum with sharks, and
because he was such a fine person,
had not been bitten once.
That’s why.
W E’D BEEN TOLD THE
best thing about Fiji is its people:
kinetically friendly, communally
minded, kid-loving, naturally
hospitable, greeting everyone with a
loud “Bula!” At Six Senses, we were
welcomed by serenade, which,
friends, I’m here to tell you is the best
way to arrive anywhere. As wooden
necklaces were draped around our
necks, a group of singers with
acoustic guitars belted out a string of
heartfelt harmonies. These songs
could easily have seemed like just
another tropical island cliché—and
yes, the experience would be
repeated five more times on our trip.
But in the moment, the singing felt
like an organic extension of the Fijian
spirit. (Of course, the staffers sang
these songs a lot as guests came and
went, but for me, sap that I am, that
initial moment never lost its feeling,
especially later as we approached the
end of our trip, and I went through
my own complicated feelings of not
wanting to leave Fiji, ever.)
While Six Senses is luxurious, it of
course also stresses sustainability.
Efforts to reduce the resort’s carbon
footprint can be felt at every turn—
from the metal drinking straws and
the Tesla battery–powered solar
fields to the kitchen garden with its
resident brood of chickens.
FROM TOP: The seafood
platter at Vatuvara
Private Islands
showcases Fijian
flavors like coconut,
lime and cilantro; a
guest room
at Six Senses Fiji.
OPPOSITE: The beach
at Kokomo Private
Island, on remote
Yaukuve Levu.
According to Rose Kavanaugh, the property’s enthusiastic
marketing exec, it is this philosophy, more than the spa facilities or
the food (both of which were fantastic), that repeat customers at Six
Senses’ other resorts give as the reason for their return. Perhaps,
having burned the jet fuel to be there, some of us feel relief in
knowing that a resort has our ecological back.
After checking in, we reviewed our activity options and found
that they included a consultation with the property’s “sleep
ambassador,” who can provide everything from organic pajamas to
a sleep kit containing a neti pot and something called a sleep
spritzer, infused with the scent of jasmine.
Having installed ourselves in our beachfront villa, we took in the
view from the deck. In the near distance, we could see a small island
called Wadigi, which, we were told, has been rented out by Pink and
Paris Hilton. Out to the west, the water turned from near-purple to
an emerald green, and beyond that was an epic wall of white water
where the energy of the ocean collided
with the coral reef. Everything
around us was shaped by the mood
and aspect of the sea.
It occurred to me that part of what
makes any place a paradise is the
contrast it provides with your life at
home. Back in Portland, Maine, where
we live, Sara and I had just sent our
oldest child off to college and put our
second on a plane to Beijing for a high
school year abroad. For the past few
weeks, the nest had seemed two-
thirds empty. In Fiji, the sensual
bombardment of the natural world
helped erase that parental pang. By
the time we snorkeled around the
nearby reef, we’d passed into a state of
wonder, lost in a world of parrotfish
and blue starfish.
It reminded me of something that
came before all the swimming and
 FROM LEFT: A staffer at
Vatuvara, where
guests have included
Prince Harry and
Meghan, Duchess of
Sussex; Vatuvara has
set up a foundation to
protect the
surrounding reefs.
OPPOSITE: One of the
three villas at
Vatuvara, which all
have an informal,
personal feel.
paddleboarding, before the yoga and massage at the spa designed to
look like a Fijian village, before our last night on the island and the
cocktail on the hilltop overlooking the resort at sunset. When we’d
first arrived, we’d met what Six Senses called our GEM, or guest
experience maker. His name was Pela Rageci, and besides being
awesome, he looked a little like Usher. His greeting to us that
morning, later to be repeated by others, captured something so true
about the familiarity we felt in Fiji. “Welcome home,” he’d said, as if
we’d already been there in another life.
IF YOU ASK ME , the mega-rich have it the hardest in Fiji.
The rest of us go on vacation, and then, with lightened wallets and
heavy hearts, take our leave at the end of the trip. We don’t want to
go home, of course, but we generally don’t have much choice.
Multimillionaires, on the other hand, operate on a different budget
and schedule. We all crave our own version of paradise, but they
alone have the means to acquire it—
as well as a seeming compulsion to
engrave their indelible signatures on
the landscape in golden glitter. And
then the project turns out to be a
whole lot of work.
It’s a thing in Fiji, moguls and
celebrities buying their own islands.
Mel Gibson purchased one for US$15
million. Clare Bronfman, the
Seagram heiress, owns 80 percent of
one, for which she paid US$47
million. David Gilmour, the
Canadian gold baron, bought and
developed the 1990s granddaddy of
Fiji’s star-studded private island
resorts, the Wakaya Club & Spa. In
2008, Red Bull cofounder Dietrich
Mateschitz opened a resort on
Laucala, his own manicured version
of Xanadu, replete with Austrian
chefs, a Wagyu cattle farm, its own
private submarine, and an 18-hole
golf course staffed by PGA
professionals. Oprah Winfrey to
George Clooney have been guests.
So it was strictly in the name of
research that we hopped aboard a
seaplane whose barefoot pilot
brought us to an island called
Yaukuve Levu, which is owned by
Australian real estate billionaire
Lang Walker. After spending US$160
million, Walker has realized his own
version of paradise: Kokomo Private
Island. The story of its acquisition
goes like this. In 2011, a friend sailed
by the jungle-thicketed island that
would become home to Kokomo, and
told Walker he’d found just the place
for him. Lore has it that when Walker
eventually showed up, he slashed his
way to the top of a hill to get cell
coverage, then negotiated the price
down from US$7 million to US$3
million. He calls it the most costly
phone call of his life, because shortly
thereafter, he turned on the cash
spigot to create the resort that stood
before us. “This is the one project on
which Walker has truly spared no
expense,” Martin Persson, the
island’s GM, told me.
While Six Senses might have
possessed a slightly more sceney vibe,
Kokomo, by dint of its price, clientele
and 45-minute plane transfer, upped
the ante in terms of exclusivity. As we
padded along the dock after drop-off,
again came the musical greeting and
the bestowing of leis, followed by a
quick briefing from Lynn Enocksson,
the PR manager and Martin’s wife.
Here, our GEM was called a butler,
and the “butler button” on our
in-room iPad, we were told, would be
the conduit to service. As it should be
in paradise, the takeaway was
simple: whatever you want,
whenever you want it, we’ll try to
make it happen. At this point, I was
tempted to vocalize an urge for baked
Alaska and fire juggling on the beach,
just to see. (One guest had embarked
on a new cleanse just before she
arrived, and asked the resort staff to
come up with 55 kilograms of celery,
which they did.)
Our beachfront villa, one of 21 at
the resort, was once again ridiculous,
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019 
 with its white stone bathtub that resembled a bisected dinosaur egg, clambered up some dry rocks and
its bed that I never wanted to leave, oriented toward the azure ocean, jumped. But then our Fijian guide
and its paintings produced by one of Walker’s favorite painters, climbed the slick rock-face behind
Chris Kenyon, during a yearlong island residency. But despite the the waterfall, found his own perch
creature comforts, at Kokomo you really get the feeling of being out about halfway up, and casually dived
there. The resort is situated in the Kadavu group of islands, headfirst into dark waters, splashing
surrounded by the Great Astrolabe Reef—the fourth largest on the and whooping when he came up.
planet—which teems with exotic marine life, including sharks and When it came time to eat,
dolphinfish. The place feels so remote, in fact, that some of the everything was fresh and
nearby beaches are used to film international editions of Survivor. delicious—no small feat on a remote
At Kokomo, we again were briefed about the multitude of on-land island. Kokomo’s ingredients come,
amenities on offer, from the tennis court to the yoga sessions. But in large part, from the farm on the
again, we found ourselves most drawn to the aquatic wonderland of eastern side of the island. These are
the Pacific Ocean. The resort offers a PADI dive center and a staff overseen by Aussie executive chef
marine biologist who studies the region’s manta ray population. Anthony Healey, whose previous gig
There’s Hobie catamaran sailing, tubing, snorkeling, outer-reef was at Laucala and who also keeps
surfing, and deep-sea fishing (migrating tuna are never fattier than bees for honey and presides over his
when in their Fiji phase, Persson told us). own coterie of chickens. That
One day, we took a boat to an even more remote island, which evening, jellied by an excellent
took us past the Survivor beaches, where we could see a crew setting massage at what Kokomo touts as
up one of the challenges. A short hike later, we found ourselves at the “the biggest spa in Fiji”—a still-
base of a 30-meter waterfall, a lovely refuge in the jungle with modest collection of traditional
parrots fluttering by. Thinking ourselves brave, Nicholas and I thatched huts, where a hammam and


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

a 3½-hour treatment called the
Island Revival Journey are
available—we ate at Walker d’Plank,
one of the resort’s three restaurants.
Seated on a deck over the rising
tide, with crabs scuttling in the dark
beneath us, we were welcomed by the
restaurant’s chef, Caroline Oakley, a
voluble local originally hired as Lang
Walker’s private cook. It is her
contagious belief that making food is
an emotional act. Luckily for guests
at Kokomo, she’s an accomplished
improviser (we all loved the resort’s
willingness to cook off-menu). Soon
came duck pancakes, Korean
barbecue, and fried rice with lobster,
all accompanied by wine from an
extensive list. As I entered a food
coma, my wife took up my reporter’s
notebook to record my reaction.
“Now I understand how Marlon
Brando ended up weighing three
hundred and fifty pounds,” I said,
just before they rolled me out. “He
bought his own island paradise and
ate exactly like this.”
OUR L AST STOP WAS
Vatuvara Private Islands, another
billionaire-owned island nirvana
and the place we met Cloud, the
aforementioned yoga instructor. This
time we came skimming via twin-
engine from south to north, in the
direction of the yet more remote Lau
island chain, once closed to tourists,
where Vatuvara is located. The resort
is actually located on Kaibu—one of
three islands owned by Jim Jannard,
the American founder of Oakley
sunglasses. It looks out on his beloved
Vatuvara island, which remains a
protected sanctuary.
With three villas in the whole
resort, and the other two unoccupied
that week, we were the only guests
being attended to by a staff of 42. Of
course, our digs were stunning, but
the vibe was more like someone’s cool
home than a luxury resort, fully
furnished, with interesting books
and found art objects. Yes, the
personal wine fridge was stocked,
and a beautiful coconut cake sat on
the counter, made in our honor. The
beach was for us alone, with all the
toys including a sea scooter you could
FROM RIGHT: Kokoda, or
Fijian-style ceviche
made with coconut
milk, at Six Senses;
sculptures in the
gardens at Kokomo
were carved from
fallen cinnamon trees.
OPPOSITE: Guests at
Vatuvara have the
island’s supply of
watersports
equipment all to
themselves.
ride against the current. Cloud was on call to pretzel us up.
The ionized plunge pool was temperature-controlled and
deep, and you could hang on the wall, gawking at the waves as
they crashed against the barrier reef in the near distance.
None of this should have been surprising—though it
was—once we learned a little about the man in charge, Rob
Miller. Born in Australia and raised in Fiji, Miller is locally
famous for having been the GM at the Wakaya Club & Spa in
its late-90s heyday. He is still regarded as something of the
grand pooh-bah of Fijian hospitality—so much so that when
Prince Harry and Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, had a night off
on their recent tour of Oceania, Miller hosted them at
Vatuvara. “Rob is a masterpiece,” said a woman named Leba
Raluve, who acted as our server, bartender, masseuse, guest
relations liaison, and probably about a dozen other things.
Back when Miller was still working at Wakaya,
hobnobbing with its famous clientele
and perfecting the art of keeping
them happy, he became particularly
close to Jannard, then worth more
than US$2 billion. So when Jannard
bought these islands in 2009, he
installed his friend Miller to build two
houses on the 150-hectare Kaibu
island—one for each of them—and
start something Miller described as
“small and exclusive.”
The two then collaborated on the
addition of a runway, villas and a
four-hole golf course. When we
visited, the resort had been in
development for eight years, and they
weren’t yet done with the gym.
Theirs, Miller said, had been a soft
opening. As an exclusive-use
property, the time line of the launch
was flexible. “We’re only looking for
one booking at a time,” he explained.
 The resort itself felt like a family affair.
Miller’s wife, Lynda, tends the gardens; his son-
in-law, John, flies planes for the resort and
handles all the water activities, from Jet Skiing
to deep-sea fishing. Daughter Katy, a marine
biologist, heads up the Vatuvara Foundation,
which is charged with protecting the ocean life
of the northern Lau islands. These days, there
is much discussion about the effects of climate
change, development, and tourism, which
include the destruction of coral reefs,
deforestation, and unsustainable fishing
practices. In response, the foundation, in
partnership with organizations including the
U.S. Geological Survey, has studied the coral
reefs and the wildlife sanctuary of Vatuvara
island, hoping to protect the species that reside
there—one of which is the coconut crab, the
world’s largest land-based arthropod.
W ITH OUR TIME TICK ING
down in Fiji, everything at Vatuvara assumed a
special poignancy. The kokoda (Fijian ceviche)
was somehow more flavorful; the perfume of
the frangipani flowers more intense.
Before the long trip home, before the final
goodbye song, we wanted one last adventure. So
John fired up the Jet Skis and we set out to a
secluded beach so we could snorkel on the coral
reef one last time. “Yippity-yoppity!” Nicholas
yelled, gunning the machine as I clutched his
waist. It was his catchall phrase, and at that
moment he delivered it with such joy I
imagined his two siblings, wherever they were
in the world, perking up at the resounding echo
of familial happiness.
At the beach, it felt as if we were the only
ones in the world. John, who is from Rotuma,
Fiji’s northernmost island, was in the water
before all of us, free diving. He was an action-
adventure hero, as far as I was concerned.
Watching him from the shore, I remembered
something he’d said about his beloved home
island, one with no hotels or resorts at all,
where people lived in concert with the land and
sea. As good as Vatuvara was, he said,
“Rotuma’s my paradise.”
Underwater, the reef dropped off suddenly,
deeply—craggy and profound in its pinks and
yellows and fluorescent blues. A sea turtle came
winging along, its humble home on its back.
Underwater, it flew. John, not us, saw it
disappear in the distance. We simply imagined
it, free to explore its own paradise and the
feeling of its propulsion through all those
awesome kingdoms of coral beneath the
surface of our world.

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
FIJI
Malolo
Yaukuve Levu
You’ll want to set aside at least a week for a vacation here, as the
journey can be long. But with beaches, reefs, and resorts like these,
who would want to go for any less?
Getting There
Fiji Airways (fijiairways.com) has
nonstop flights from Hong Kong,
Singapore and Tokyo to Nadi
International Airport, on the main
island of Viti Levu. As Fiji is made
up of more than 300 islands, many
resorts offer their own air or boat
transfers; in addition, there are
ferry services to the busier
Mamanuca and Yasawa island
groups from Port Denarau, a short
drive from the airport. Most
countries are visa exempt, but
citizens of Burma, Cambodia, Laos
and Vietnam must obtain a visa
before traveling to Fiji. Visit
immigration.gov.fj for full details.
Where to Stay
Six Senses Fiji Located on
Malolo Island in the Mamanucas,
this eco-friendly resort offers
high-end luxury with minimal
guilt—as well as excellent food
and a dazzling array of wellness
options. And for surfers of
means, legendary spots like
Cloudbreak and Restaurants are
a short boat ride away. sixsenses.
com; villas from US$945.
Kokomo Private Island
A 40-minute seaplane (or
helicopter) ride south from Nadi to
Yaukuve Levu, this property
owned by Australian developer
Lang Walker feels a bit like
Fantasy Island. Whatever you
want, the staff here aims to
Kaibu
FIND YOUR OWN
PRIVATE
PARADISE IN FIJI
provide—from a picnic lunch on a
deserted island to a visit to the
Great Astrolabe Reef, one of the
premier diving spots on earth.
kokomoislandfiji.com; villas from
US$2,500.
Vatuvara Private Islands Another
plane ride, this time 40 minutes
northeast from Nadi, lands you on
Kaibu, an island in the remote Lau
archipelago owned by Oakley
sunglasses founder Jim Jannard.
Formerly closed to tourists, Kaibu
is now home to this exclusive,
150-hectare, three-villa property
with overflowing gardens, an
on-site farm, and an organic golf
course. vatuvara.com; villas from
US$4,300.
Nanuku, an Auberge Resort
Accessible by plane or road from
Nadi, Nanuku is a laid-back, family-
oriented resort in Pacific Harbour,
on Viti Levu’s southern shore.
Adventure is a central focus:
guests can dive with sharks, Jet
Ski to remote islands, and journey
up inland rivers to rapids and
waterfalls. What makes Nanuku
most special, though, is the way it
showcases Fijian culture—best
witnessed in the traditional kava
ceremony, which combines
consumption of the euphoria-
inducing local drink with tribal
dancing and singing. auberge
resorts.com; doubles from
US$775. — M.P.
CITY OF ANGELS,

LAND OF

HOTELS In Los Angeles, a handful of

beloved properties—some relative
newcomers, others dating back to the
glory days of Old Hollywood—are
woven so deeply into the social fabric,
you couldn’t imagine the sprawling
city without them. Alex Bhattacharji
explores why they’re so essential to
the way Angelenos live and gather
and so endlessly alluring to visitors.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY B R I A N G U I D O
The Sunset Tower Hotel’s Tower Bar is one of the toughest reservations in town.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019 

 I
It’s a scene that plays out on Saturday mornings
across the land: a line of people winds out the
door of a small diner where, all weekend long,
athleisure-clad families fill the dozen or so
stools that flank a curved counter. As they
thumb the papers, linger over partially eaten
plates of eggs Benedict and silver-dollar
pancakes, and lift their mugs to request refills
of joe, they give no inkling that the Fountain
Coffee Room is anything but a neighborhood
joint, because that is exactly what it is—an
institution locals casually refer to as the “Los Angeles is a large city-like area
Counter. For starters, you would never know surrounding the Beverly Hills Hotel.” Except,
that Marilyn Monroe loved getting late-night with all due respect to the consummate New
ice cream here or that this is where the Yorker, her cheeky observation is incomplete.
members of Guns N’ Roses signed their first Actually there are a handful of hotels, arrayed
record deal. And unless you recognized the in a loose cluster across West Hollywood,
embroidered crest on the napkins or the Beverly Hills and Bel Air, that compose the true
wallpaper emblazoned with waving banana- focal point of the city. Their bars and lobbies,
palm leaves or the Chanel-pink doggie bag dining rooms and poolsides are the City of
boxes bearing the Beverly Hills Hotel logo, Angels’ main drags and town squares.
you’d also have no clue you’re in a hotel. “I always found Los Angeles singular among
“Of course it’s in a hotel,” says Alison world-class cities in its lack of a central hub.
Werner, a thirtysomething talent booker and There’s literally no there there, as they say,”
CLOCKWISE FROM Southern California native, when I meet her hotelier André Balazs notes. “A hotel can fill
TOP: Afternoon
after breakfast. “This is L.A. Here, we actually that void.” That was the idea when he
at Palihouse West
Hollywood’s Mardi hang out in hotels.” purchased Chateau Marmont in 1990,
Restaurant; green This comes as some bit of reassurance to me. understanding that the stately Loire Valley–
juice at Mardi; a In the three years since relocating from New style château rising above the comedy clubs and
diner gets a little York City, I’ve found myself hanging out at area nightclubs of the Sunset Strip had long served
work done during
happy hour at
hotels with a frequency that I thought might as a clubhouse for the elite. It’s never been alone
Palihouse Lobby have branded me an outsider. But it’s like the in that role, though over the years the cast of
Lounge & Bar. writer and cultural critic Fran Lebowitz said: hotels has changed as the city has. During



MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
Tinseltown’s Golden Age, the Hollywood
Roosevelt played the same part, as did the
Beverly Wilshire, which is now staking its
claim anew as a Four Seasons. Even as the city
is awash in fresh energy, with ever richer
culinary offerings, thriving art and cultural
scenes, and the ascendance of Downtown L.A.
and Venice, the tradition of treating hotels as
hearths has happily endured.

“A HOTEL, IF DONE correctly, serves as a

second home,” says hotelier and restaurateur
Jeff Klein, whose locally landmarked Art Deco
Sunset Tower Hotel fills the bill by design,
thanks to the dinner destination Tower Bar and
the recently renovated pool and terrace. Several
other properties around town—both old and
new—do the same, each in its own distinct
way: the opulent, hidden-in-plain-sight refuge
Viceroy L’Ermitage Beverly Hills; the intimate
and welcoming Palihouse West Hollywood,
which packs bohemian-chic charm; and the
always venerable Hotel Bel-Air, a canyon
retreat whose faraway feel belies its proximity
to West L.A.
For out-of-towners, Los Angeles’s hotel-as-
hub phenomenon can put an improbable, ironic
twist on an itinerary. In most cities, the
authentic local experiences visitors crave come
from leaving the hotel—not blocking out more
time there. “In the case of the Chateau,” Balazs
says, “the same thing that appeals to visitors
actually is something of vital necessity to
residents of L.A.—a sense of place.” The Castle
on Sunset, as the Chateau is also known, dates
from 1929 and exudes Old Hollywood appeal.
Long before the mismatched aesthetic was in
vogue, the Chateau embraced eclectic, lounge-
worthy furniture that would deliver the
comforts of home. Over the years, many
famous figures have taken up full-time
residence here, but even lingering for a few
hours can act as a salve for the loneliness that
tends to afflict Angelenos, isolated in their cars
and secluded hillside abodes.
And the Chateau is a celebrity in its own
right, steeped in Hollywood history, glamour
and legendary bad behavior. Jean Harlow
hosted lovers here during her honeymoon,
Jim Morrison swung from the balconies, and
John Belushi died of an overdose in one of the
bungalows. (The dishy new book The Castle on
Sunset marks the Chateau’s 90th year with a
history of its trysts, deals, addictions and art.)
The property may as well be the uncredited
lead in Sofia Coppola’s Somewhere, a film
ostensibly about displacement and ennui that
also shows the human connection and
bonhomie a hotel can provide. It’s a love letter to
the Chateau’s many charms, including the
intimate pool and personable waiters and
valets, who in real life somehow manage to
learn your name and know which car is
yours before you can shift into park. These
touches add to the Chateau’s air of exclusivity,
which, while overstated, is reinforced by the
star power on display during seemingly
every visit.
While eating dinner on the veranda recently,
I spot several pop starlets at the tables. During
a visit to the bungalow housing Chateau
Hanare, Marmont’s year-old kaiseki
restaurant, the cast of a premium cable show
spills out of a private dining room. Over the
course of one day, Quentin Tarantino sits in the
sunken living room writing out notes in
longhand on script pages, first on a low chair,
then on a higher love seat, before finally settling
into an armchair that seems to get his artistic
juices flowing. A few days later, the space plays
host to music executives lunching before
meeting with colleagues and counterparts,
taking calls, then wooing a pair of hip-hop
artists over a drink—all without changing
their location—until it’s time to amble a few
meters for their dinner reservation.
CALL THIS DEVOTION to place
enlightened inertia, an increasingly popular
approach to efficient planning in this traffic-
congested city whose mantra is map twice,
drive once. Even established hotels have
adapted to become multi-act stopovers,
encouraging post-lunch laptop sessions that
blend into evening engagements. At the Sunset
Tower, which offers nearly every modern
amenity except a sizable lobby, Klein
reimagined the pool patio and the terrace,
which had long been afterthoughts, adding a
sultry new bar area with banquettes and booths
for meetings over drinks. They now present a
relaxed daytime precursor and nighttime
alternative to the elegant and exclusive Tower
Bar across the hotel’s lobby, which has seen its
own evolution.
Last year, when Gabé Doppelt, a former
fashion editor and onetime acolyte of Anna
Wintour, replaced Dimitri Dimitrov as the
maître d’ at Tower Bar, she assumed the mantle
of Hollywood’s most empowered host—and de
facto social kingmaker. In Los Angeles, this
changing of the guard at Tower Bar was treated
like a peaceful transfer of power almost on par
with a presidential inauguration. While
Doppelt has honored traditions (the dress code
and the no-photos rule, instituted after an
unfortunate J.Lo incident, remain), she has also
ushered in changes. In her hands, the Tower
Bar’s reservation lists and seating chart are
constructed less around the entertainment
establishment and more with an eye toward
contemporary eclecticism. Directing traffic
with a trace of a South African accent, Doppelt
confidently mixes and matches contrasting
crowds, as if continuously curating a highly
personalized cocktail party. “Changing the mix
is essential,” she says. “It stops us from
becoming stale.”
Reservations remain as elusive as ever, and FROM LEFT: L.A.’s
some will go so far as booking a hotel room, ultimate power-
lunch scene is at
knowing that it’s the best way to score a coveted the Beverly Hills
table. “Guests get preferential treatment in that Hotel’s Polo
regard,” Klein says of Tower Bar. “If you’re an Lounge; swanky
out-of-towner and you’re not staying here, it’s cabanas flank the
hotel’s pool.
going to be pretty hard to get in. The truth is, OPPOSITE: Gabé
it’s 80 percent locals every night.” Doppelt, maître d’,
That kind of client base is a seal of makes sure the
authenticity sought by all hoteliers, precisely dining area at the
because residents are the most discerning Tower Bar is set
perfectly before
returning customers. “One thing that stunned she begins
me is how many people live in the area and greeting hotel
come here,” Doppelt says. “We have one guest, guests and beloved
Lev, who’s been coming for 12 years, maybe regulars.
four times a week. He stands in the exact same
place at the bar and he knows all our staff. He
will even start telling guests about the history
of the hotel. He’s a neighbor—that’s it.”
The connection runs both ways. Doppelt also
calls Lev part of the family, based on affection
for him—not his stature, station or domestic
proximity. “We have guests who, if there’s a
death in the family,” Doppelt adds, “we’ll either
go to the memorial or the family will come here.”
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM / MARCH 2019 
 These sort of bonds aren’t cemented
overnight. “You can’t just open a place and
become a hub,” says Avi Brosh, the CEO and
founder of Palisociety. “It takes a long time to
become part of the fabric within a community.
It has to be a friendly neighborhood place. It has
to grow on you.” His company opened
Palihouse West Hollywood a decade ago,
seeking to create “a place that was a little bit
less defined, more like a student union.” It was
modeled on social-clubs-cum-hotels like Soho
House (which opened a West Hollywood
location of its members-only club, sans hotel,
two years later), with a lobby, bar area and
garden restaurant that flow seamlessly into one
another, each inviting like-minded creative
types to while away the time. It can feel like a
co-working space, a Parisian café and a cocktail

MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM
lounge—often all at once. As I perch at the bar,
hip young Busy Philipps look-alikes clack away
on their laptops, a young foursome toasts, and a
spectacled fortysomething professional greets
his lunch mate, whom he’s introducing to the
place: “My quirky-cool assistant turned me on
to it. Small but nice, right?”
VISITORS HOPING TO drink in L.A.’s
glitzy energy sometimes come up dry at the
illustrious and idyllic Hotel Bel-Air—a
sprawling, leafy oasis tucked partway up Stone
Canyon that feels far, far away from, well,
everything. That, of course, is its appeal to area
residents. The sense of serenity begins when
you cross the footbridge over Swan Lake and
the white waterfowl float by. It continues
through what feels like a rambling country
estate, which is what the property was until the
1930s. At the time, it was centered around a
massive stable—vestiges of which remain
around the pool, whose oval shape is an outline
of the riding ring that preceded it. The hotel’s
103 rooms and suites are housed in multiple
buildings scattered across five hectares, so that
even when it’s at capacity, the Bel-Air never
feels crowded.
One happy exception: Sunday brunch, a
buoyant, Bellini-fueled, open-air affair for
which well-heeled denizens from all over the
L.A. area descend on the hotel’s Wolfgang Puck
restaurant. It’s rarefied enough for Balenciaga
pumps but relaxed enough for New Balance
running shoes. Some locals combine it with a
trip to the spa, whose monthly memberships
are popular among those who live nearby, while
others indulge themselves with Bloody Marys
and splurge on sturgeon caviar.
The most essential weekday meal, fittingly,
is at the Los Angeles area’s most iconic
institution. That would be the power lunch at
the famed Polo Lounge in the Beverly Hills
Hotel. (If you’ve heard that the Ivy is still the “it
spot,” you’ve likely heard that from tourists,
who now make up a disproportionate
percentage of the Ivy’s patrons.) There’s
comfort in being a Polo Lounge regular. As I
enter, a woman in business attire rushes by the
host and asks, “Is he here yet?” The host nods
affirmatively as the woman heads in, the host
knowing precisely whom the woman is meeting
and the woman knowing precisely which table
she has. The most desirable spots are the small
booths opposite the bar and, outside, the
oversize banquettes that ring the garden, where
producers and moguls mingle in full display for
other diners. But the enduring appeal of the
property, which opened in 1912 and later
inspired the Eagles’ “Hotel California,” has
been tested in recent years. The hotel became
the subject of an impassioned boycott in 2014,
after the Sultan of Brunei, whose sovereign
wealth fund owns parent company the
Dorchester Collection, instituted aspects of
sharia law in his home country. But the
opposition gradually lost steam, outweighed by
affection for the hotel, its staff and its role as a
headquarters for the neighboring community.
If the Polo Lounge is the place Angelenos go
to be seen, L’Ermitage is where they go to be
unnoticed. “No one here uses the front door,” a
greeter says—at the front door. As befits a
refuge that prides itself on discretion, a more
clandestine entry can be accessed on the
parking level—one where the red carpet
literally gets rolled out for events during
Hollywood’s awards season and for visiting
dignitaries. (For locals arriving for lunch or a
staycation, too.) Once inside the 116-suite
hideaway, you’re enveloped in peace and quiet,
despite its location near Rodeo Drive. Every
detail is refined and restrained. If it seems like
The gardens at
Hotel Bel-Air;
OPPOSITE: The
hotel’s bar.
 of Zee’s who happens to be in town. “He
probably thinks I did it to make it easy for him,”
he says with a laugh as we raise our glasses.
“But I made a reservation here before I knew
where he was staying.”
As Doppelt glides through the dining room
after seating a group of guests, she stops and
leans in to chat with Zee and the rest of us. As
she stands to leave a few minutes later, she
lights up and calls over an anonymous-looking
middle-aged man heading toward the bar with
a trio of friends. “You must know Lev,” she says
to us. “Don’t you?”

WHERE ANGELENOS
GATHER
This constellation of six luxe hotels dotted
around West Hollywood, Beverly Hills and
Bel Air forms Los Angeles’ true city center.

Beverly Hills Hotel

Brunch at the Bel- a perfect place to recover, it is. Soon after the
Air’s Wolfgang
residential condos were converted to a hotel in
Puck restaurant.
the 1970s, the owner built an entire wing for
healing patients. Today, there’s a private floor
reserved for postsurgical guests who want to be
nursed back in the lap of luxury and away from
prying eyes. Michael Jackson often convalesced
here for months at a time. Of course, plastic
surgery isn’t required to pamper oneself at
L’Ermitage. Guests will check in to get primped
ahead of galas and weddings, in part because of
the renowned full-length triptych mirrors. At
every turn, the service is reserved yet highly
personal, even for guests who aren’t technically
people. During lunch at Avec Nous, waiters
alert the kitchen staff to prepare their
handcrafted dog food as soon as they spot a
familiar Great Dane and his owner sitting on
the patio.
Ultimately, the human touch hotels provide
is what makes them so essential to residents.
Like many visitors to Los Angeles, Joe Zee, a
fashion stylist, creative director, and television
host, used to wonder why friends in L.A. would
be so eager to meet him at his hotel. “I get it now
that I live here,” says Zee, a former New Yorker
who has called the Hollywood Hills home for
the past three years. “I celebrated my last
birthday and New Year’s at Tower Bar.”
When I meet him there to toast the launch of
his new Netflix docuseries 7 Days Out, we grab
drinks, followed by dinner with another friend
Part of the Dorchester Collection, along with its
sister property, the Hotel Bel-Air, the iconic retreat
houses two of the city’s most popular dining
destinations: the brunch favorite Fountain Coffee
Room (mains US$8–$27) and the power-lunch den
Polo Lounge (mains US$20–$75). beverlyhillshotel.
com; doubles from US$595.
Chateau Marmont
Hotelier André Balazs’s hideaway welcomes
Angelenos and travelers seeking a respite from the
city—whether you’ve come for a leisurely meal at
the kaiseki restaurant Chateau Hanare (from
US$90 per person) or a stay in one of the legendary
bungalows. chateaumarmont.com; doubles from
US$450.
Hotel Bel-Air
Ensconced in Bel Air’s labyrinthine canyons, this
former estate feels ultra-private, thanks to lush
gardens and discreet service. Carve out time for
brunch at Wolfgang Puck (from US$95 per person).
hotelbelair.com; doubles from US$595.
Palihouse West Hollywood
This eclectic property blends elements of a
boutique hotel and an extended-stay residence to
foster a welcoming vibe, particularly in its Lobby
Lounge (mains US$29–$57), a fashionable spot for
after-work drinks. palisociety.com; doubles from
US$335.
Sunset Tower Hotel
One of the city’s buzziest scenes can be found at the
Art Deco landmark’s Tower Bar (mains US$32–$57),
where celebrities and area residents congregate.
sunsettowerhotel.com; doubles from US$395.
Viceroy L’Ermitage Beverly Hills
Known for its understated elegance, the hotel
draws visitors of all stripes with its 116 spacious
suites and the panoramic views of the Hollywood
Hills from its rooftop pool. viceroyhotelsandresorts.
com; doubles from US$525.


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM

LET’S
CONNECT
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 wish you were here

Snow-capped for five months

of the year, Mount Fuji is about
as iconic a symbol of Japan as
there is. An inspiration to
artists and poets for centuries, the now-dormant, 3,776-meter
volcano often appears as a painting to the naked eye. Surrounded in
every direction by layers of waterways, low-lying hills and clear
skies blend and evolve as each day progresses, even from as far away
as the bustling streets of Tokyo, which is 100 kilometers to the
northeast. — SHINSUKE MATSUK AWA


MARCH 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA.COM