Professional Documents
Culture Documents
How A TIG Welder Works and When To TIG Weld - MillerWelds
How A TIG Welder Works and When To TIG Weld - MillerWelds
TIG Weld
Learn the basics of TIG welding in motorsports applications and the proficiency of a TIG
welder on aluminum and chrome-moly.
If you have ever welded with an oxy-acetylene torch, you can easily weld with a TIG
machine. The TIG process uses an electric torch, and the welder hand feeds filler rod
into the molten puddle.
The ability to soft start and soft stop the heat makes the TIG process different from
other types of electric welding. Some people like the accelerator pedal to control the
heat if they are working on a bench and others like fingertip remotes on the torch if they
are working in areas that are considered out of position. The remote adjusts the heat
while you are welding.
Before you use a TIG unit, you should be familiar with the parts of the welder and the
function of each part. The work lead, often referred to as a ground cable with a clamp,
must be attached to the workpiece or to the metal surface that the workpiece is on.
The welding lead will have an electric TIG torch on the end. Along with the cable is a
small line that carries the argon gas. The inert gas performs like the flux coating on a
stick electrode in that it protects the weld from airborne contaminants. You will need a
gas bottle and a regulator. DO NOT use the same gas that you would use with a MIG
welder.
The torch disassembles into several parts. The small tungsten rod (several sizes are
available) is the electrode. This electrode does not burn up like a filler rod. The
tungsten can be sharpened to a point or ball shape depending on what you are welding.
A copper collet holds the tungsten and is used to adjust the length that the tungsten
protrudes from the cup. The ceramic cup (usually pink) can be unscrewed and replaced
as needed. Several cup outlet diameters are available. In the collet body, there are
several cross-holes that allow the gas to pass into the cup and surround the tungsten.
This excludes oxygen that would contaminate a weld. Loosening the back cap will
reduce the collet's grip on the tungsten and allow the tungsten to be removed for
sharpening or replacement.
Getting started
To start, gather up some clean metal scraps. You should have a metal top table or at
least a metal plate clamped firmly to the table. Pull up a stool. Place the foot pedal
within easy reach once you are seated. It is important to wear the proper protective
welding gear, such as a long-sleeved shirt or coveralls, a welding helmet, and leather
gloves and shoes — even when TIG welding.
Set the welder to the correct polarity for the base material type — AC for aluminum or
DC for steels. Select the appropriate welding rod. Make sure the gas bottle is turned
on. I set the regulator at about 20 cubic feet per hour (cfh). Check that the tungsten
has the correct point for the metal you are welding. It should stick out of the cup by
about 1/8 inch. Hold the torch up, away from your body, and depress and release the
foot pedal. You should hear the gas flow. If not, then find out why. Did you turn on both
the welder and the bottle?
A ceramic cup
shrouds the
tungsten
electrode
directing the
gas flow.
These cups
come in
several sizes
for different
welding
applications.
You are ready to weld. Let me explain a few TIG pitfalls to make your learning process
easier. The tungsten should never touch the workpiece. When it does, you will notice a
different sound and color, which means the tungsten is contaminated. Loosen the back
cap and slip the tungsten (it is hot) out. Go to the grinder, preferably one with a wheel
dedicated to tungsten, and clean the end of the tungsten. Reshape the end as
necessary. You will dip the tungsten many times as you learn, but with more practice
you'll be steadier and it will happen less.
This is the tungsten
electrode. It has been
ground to a ball shape
on one end and a point
on the other. Each
shape has its
application. The
tungsten is considered
a consumable item and
will be used up over
time.
Back at the welding table, get some practice. Use different heats and different feeds of
the rod on your scraps.
This article won't make you a proficient TIG welder, but it should give you a good
understanding of how a TIG welder works and why you might need one. A good machine
has the capacity to weld up to 1/4-inch aluminum and 3/8-inch steel or stainless steel.
This is a very nice tool if you do a Just the thing for race-car welders!
lot of TIG welding. Its a hand-held This is a foot control for the
unit that automatically grinds amperage control of the Miller TIG
tungsten to a point. machine.
Part of a weld joint has been Preparing to start a weld: the torch
completed. Too much heat directed with the tungsten in place. The
to the thin edge has burned a hole welding rod is ready to be added.
in the metal of this .035-in. steel With an auto-darkening helmet,
tube. With the foot amperage everything can be positioned
control, the heat can be controlled without having to shake your head
enough to repair this flaw. With a to flip the hood down.
bit of practice, this won't happen
again.
The TIG welder in action. The rod is This is the type of weld joint you
being fed with one hand while the should avoid. All these tubes
other guides the torch. A converged at one point and were
comfortable position here means a tack welded into place. It is
lot to weld quality. virtually impossible to reach the
inside edges of the tubes. The part
should have been welded in
sections that were stacked so that
the last welds were properly
positioned for welding.
Here the welder is using the soft A finished weld? No. This joint has
stop technique. He finished the been welded as much on the
weld and slowly reduced the bottom as on the top. It is
amperage. The gas flow remains on advantageous to weld a joint from
for a few seconds to prevent weld side to side to control warpage.
contamination. This technique is Turn the workpiece as necessary.
reversed when beginning a weld by
slowly bringing the heat up. All of
this prevents thermal shock, which
you must prevent on chrome-moly
steels.
Originally written in 2007 by Sleepy Gomez, publisher and technical director, Oval Trak
Digest.com. Parts of this article have been updated in 2018.
Related Products