SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE (SCI)

Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) can pose skin irritation depending on the individual's suseptibility
and concentration used. However, it is considered to be, generally, a milder option.

Sodium cocoyl isethionate is created by combining fatty acids with isethionic acid. Isethionic acid is
created by combining sodium bisulfite in an aqueous solution and ethylene oxide. Ethylene oxide is
a known carcinogen. Traces of ethylene oxide can remain in the product, along with carcinogenic
1,4-dioxane.

Safety Information:

The safety of Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
(CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Sodium
Cocoyl Isethionate was safe for use as a cosmetic ingredient at 50% in rinse-off products and
17% in leave-on products.

More safety Information:

CIR Safety Review: The greatest concentration of Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate tested as a rinse-off
product was 49.87%. The greatest concentration of Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate tested as a leave-on
product was 17%. Therefore, the CIR Expert Panel used these concentrations in drawing its
conclusion about safety. The CIR Expert Panel commented that Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate might
produce ocular irritation based on its chemical structure.

The irritant effects produced by Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate were similar to those produced by other
surfactants, with the severity of irritation increasing with increasing concentration.

COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE

Cocamidopropyl betaine is a surfactant; it has been associated with irritation and allergic contact
dermatitis, reactions that could be due to the ingredient itself or to impurities present in it, such as
3-dimethylaminopropylamine.
It is derived from coconuts by mixing raw coconut oil and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine, the
product which is used to produce more foam.
Products that have cocamidopropyl betaine use chemical warning labels such as harmful irritant,
skin sensitizer, corrosive, and hazardous to the environment. However, it is sometimes masked in
“natural” beauty products by including “coconut-based agents” in the label. It is associated with
irritation and allergic skin reactions due to cocamidopropyl betaine itself or the impurities present
in it, such as 3-dimethylaminopropylamine.
CAPB replaced cocamide diethanolamine (cocamide DEA), a product of coconut oil mixed with
diethanolamine, after California listed the latter as a known carcinogen in 2012. CAPB is not
supposed to cause irritation to the mucus membraines or cause irritation, but records and studies
show otherwise. In certain conditions, these amines can produce carcinogenic nitrosamines.
Cocoamidopropyl betaine can cause skin and eye irritation, itching, blistering and burning
sensations. Affected areas are mostly on the head, neck, back and upper extremities. It may also
cause serious eye and skin damages, and chronic allergic skin reactions. CAPB is very toxic to
aquatic life, and residues may have long-lasting effects on aqueous organisms.

Allergic reactions. Cocamidopropyl betaine can cause allergic reactions in some people, resulting
in irritated skin and rashes.
Eye irritation. Because this is an ingredient commonly used in shampoos, it can easily get into the
eyes and cause eye irritation.
Other skin discomfort. Products containing cocamidopropyl betaine can cause other skin
discomforts like itching and burning.

Contamination concerns. The biggest danger of using a product with cocamidopropyl betaine
is its potential contamination with nitrosamines. Nitrosamines are created when nitrosating
agents are combined with amines.

WHAT ARE NITROSAMINES?

Nitrosamines are impurities that form when certain compounds such as diethanolamine (DEA) or
triethanolamine (TEA) are used in products along with preservatives that can break down into
nitrates. The U.K.’s Department for Business, Enterprise and Regulatory Reform characterizes
nitrosamines as toxic in more animal species than any other category of chemical carcinogen. While
common in cosmetics, nitrosamines are not listed on product labels because they are impurities,
but avoiding products with DEA and TEA is a start.
HEALTH CONCERNS: Cancer, endocrine disruption, organ system toxicity
REGULATIONS: Banned/found unsafe for use in cosmetics in Canada

SLS/SLES/SCS

Understandably many people today are confused about the potential health and environmental
hazards associated with surfactants, in particular sodium lauryl (dodecyl) sulfate, sodium laureth
(lauryl ether) sulfate and sodium coco sulfate (SLS/SLES/SCS). Some companies claim that SCS is a
safer alternative to SLS/SLES since it's derived from coconuts and not petroleum. Other companies
say the SLES is gentler on your skin because it goes through the additional process of ethoxylation.

What's the Difference?

SLS/SLES both start out using one fatty acid called lauric acid which is usually sourced from
petroleum oil. Lauric acid is converted to lauryl alcohol and SLS is created. SLS is a known skin
irritant so it's put through the additional process of ethoxylation to make it more gentle.

SCS is similar to SLS, its main difference is that it is derived only from coconut oil and uses a
blend of fatty acids that exclude the lauric fatty acid. Because of the lack of lauric fatty acid in
their formulation, companies can claim on their label that their products are SLS-Free.

Sodium coco sulfate (SCS) is a blend of:

sodium caprylic sulfate sodium capric sulfate
sodium oleic sulfate sodium stearyl sulfate
sodium myreth sulfate sodium dodecanesulfate
sodium monododecyl sulfate and others
Unfortunately SLS/SLES/SCS are often contaminated with 1,4-Dioxane which permeates the end
products they are used. Many scientists regard various surfactants as a health hazard due to their
potential 1,4-Dioxane content.

SO, IT TURNS OUT, SCS CONTAINS SLS (ABOUT 66%)

Lots of personal care products proudly say they’re “SLS-free” and one way to go that way, is to use
Sodium Coco Sulfate (SCS). As it turns out, SCS is not all that different to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
(SLS).
The process to make SLS involves a chemical reaction that isolates one fatty acid from either
petroleum, coconut oil or palm oil, Lauric Acid (C12).
Whereas SCS is derived from a blend of fatty acids from coconut oil, C12- C18. While we all know
and love coconut oil, its science lab derivatives aren’t completely natural ingredients and strip away
most of the beneficial components. From the typical fatty acid composition of coconut oil (Table 1:
Approximate Fatty acid content of Coconut oil) we can see that sodium coco sulfate could be about
66% SLS! [50/(50+16+8+2)].

Table 1: Approximate Fatty acid content of Coconut oil

Type of fatty acid %
Caprylic saturated C8 8%
Decanoic saturated C10 8%
Lauric saturated C12 50%
Myristic saturated C14 16%
Palmitic saturated C16 8%
Oleic monounsaturated C18:1 2%
Other 8%
black: Saturated; grey: Monounsaturated; blue: Polyunsaturated
The proportion of SLS in SCS is not strictly defined nor regulated and manufacturers can make it as
high as they like, all at the manufacturer’s sole discretion.

! But:
There is a main difference between SCS and SLS. The SLS latter has a small molecular mass which
enables it to penetrate the skin and affect living cells under the surface. Sodium coco sulfate is a
much larger molecule which is too big to penetrate the skin and therefore does not have the same
irritancy. So, SCS is supposed to be less irritating than SLS.