Delica Club - View Topic - Remote Central Locking Hook Up L400

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Remote Central Locking hook up L400

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Remote Central Locking hook up L400
by michaelr » Tue Aug 24, 2004 12:00 am
OK!
I asked but no one helped me on this one, so I went it alone!
Rigging an alarm with remote central locking turned out to be a real headache. Not only do I have no wiring
diagram for the L400 but there is very little room to move under the dash board. To get access for the wiring I
had to remove the front right indicator, drivers step cover, drivers side kick panel, underside of drivers side dash,
http://www.delicaclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=775&sid=8626f159ffd87854ec9f1449e23a6fe9 1/16
top and bottom of the steering wheel binacle and cover over the transmission computer (On the floor between
driver's and passenger's feet).
The central locking controller is with the relays under the dashboard. It is bigger than the other relays, about the
size of a cigarette pack. Remove two screws holding the bracket which supports all the fuses and diagnostic
point. Then you can pull the relay cluster down towards the floor and have a proper look at it and the wires
leading to it. The controller is triggered by running one of two wires to earth. The small red wire with green
stripe is the unlock wire. The small green wire with a white stripe is the lock wire. (One could also intercept
these wires in the driver's kick panel).
I installed the alarm module inside the transmission computer cover. There is lots of usefull space inside!
Getting the cable from under the dashboard to the engine compartment proved a challenge. Behind the drivers
side kick panel part of the wiring loom goes through to the front right innner guard, then forward to the front
right indicator. You can see it if you look past the drivers side door hinges with the door open. Try following the
bonnet release cable to discover the grommet and loom.
If you remove the front right indicator you can hook cable through the inner guard with a long bit of wire.
After two hours I still haven't wired in the starter kill relay and the shock sensor or got the lights to flash on
arm/disarm/alarm. I'll go back in and have another go when time permits!
michaelr
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by loosescrews » Thu Aug 26, 2004 7:46 pm
Excellent work, I have been contemplating the same and was wondering about the trigger for the doors. Thanks
,saved me heaps on time and hair. Please keep us informed on the later part of the installation. Cheers.
96 2.8 Tdi Exceed
loosescrews
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Alarm / remote locking / indicator removal

by michaelr » Thu Aug 26, 2004 10:49 pm
You are welcome Loosescrews,

(though I wish you had done it first and let ME know!)
I finished the rest of the installation in about 30 mins. Plain sailing! You will find power suply near the ignition
switch, light connection near the light switch, etc.
The door switch/interior light connection was a puzzle until I realised that the little red lights on the front doors
are linked in with the system. Sorry but I didn't make a note of the colours of the wires. I think that it was
yellow/red? Pop off the lower rear corner of the driver's door trim and you will see the two cables connected to
the red lamp. You can find these wires again behind the driver's kick panel. Pull the door loom connection into
the footwell to get better access to it. One of the two wires goes to earth when you operate the door switch and
will give you the connection you need for alarm triggering.
If you want to fit a starter kill relay, again the starter cable is behind the ignition switch. I fitted the shock sensor
to the bracket that holds the transmission computer and it seems to work well there. (You will recall I fitted the
alarm control module here too)
Have you figured out how to remove the front right indicator? Start by looking at the left hand side. Open the
bonnet and you will see a screw on the cross member above the headlight near the inner guard. If you remove
this the indicator will pull forward, as the back is just held by two pegs. (My indicators rattled very badly when I
got the car, so I "padded" these pegs with shrink tube)
Now look at the drivers side. The screw that holds the indicator in place is covered by a little plastic cover, again
fastened by a screw. I think the plastic cover is to keep rainwater out of the air intake, which is behind the RHS
indicator.
Phew! Sorry all about the long post! (And I still wish Loosescrew had done it first!). Just ask if I have left
anything out!
Michael
michaelr
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Further wiring info.....
by meatypete » Fri Jan 07, 2005 8:43 pm
Further to Michaeir's helpfull posts here and I'm sorry if I repeat any previous notes but I think it flows better...
This is relevant to my 95' Super Exceed.
All alarm wiring can be accessed from the drivers side kick panel and the steering column, here is what I
discovered:
Firstly you need to breakout all the wires from the loom in the kick panel that go through to the drivers door, this
is pretty easy to do, now, The door locking wires noted previously at the door lock switch change colour at the
entry into the main loom at the kick panel (don't know where they change exactly) but they are in the loom, only
they are now:
green/yellow with x2 silver spots = LOCK

green/black with x2 silver spots = UNLOCK
Drivers door Light (for voltage sensing) is in the same loom:
red/black with x1 silver spot (+)

yellow/red with x1 silver spot (-)
Drivers door switch, same loom, Both these are sent to negative (-):
yellow/red with x1 silver spot

green/red with x1 silver spot
Indicator connections are found just below the indicator arm and it is best the connector is unplugged to assist
breaking into these:
green/red with x2 silver spots = Left Hand Inds.

green/blue with x2 silver spots = Right Hand Inds.
Imobiliser, this is the black with yellow strip (thick) wire on a connector block of thick wires on the end of the
steering column just above the dash, check the amps here though against your alarm recommendations?
I think that's it.

95' L400 Spacegear Super Exceed, Great for looking down on one's subjects!
meatypete
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by feral 2 » Sat Jan 08, 2005 7:15 am
Great work guys. Shout yourselves a beer or two.
I pick my 95 Super Exceed next week and will be sourcing a similar kit while down in Brisbane. Any
recomendations or do you think a Strathfield Radio / Brisbane Car sound kit is adequate.
With yourselves doing all of the pioneer work, I think I am confident enough to tackle it myself.
feral 2
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Limber up
by meatypete » Sun Jan 09, 2005 8:47 pm
Feral
I suggest you get the wifes Yoga dvd out and get in some moves as you will probably be getting into a few
uncomfotable positions in the drivers foot well!!!
BTW I fitted a Rhino GTR with imobiliser and central locking standard, also voltage sensing, shock detect and
battery backed siren, if you are quick old Dick Smiths are knocking them out for a very cheap $49.95 att.
Meat
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by DaveL400 » Tue Jan 11, 2005 9:21 pm
You have all done well, what a great run of information. With this system fitted does it negate the need to use the
standard keyless entry remote??
Regards
Dave (daveL400)
94 Delica SG 2.8TDI 4WD Super Exceed
2" Ironman Suspension Lift
Rancho Adjustable Shocks
Snorkel
DaveL400
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Alarm
by meatypete » Sun Jan 16, 2005 7:26 pm

DaveL400 wrote:You have all done well, what a great run of information. With this system fitted
does it negate the need to use the standard keyless entry remote??
Regards
Hi Dave
Yep you can store the old one away, you get two remotes with the GTR, it's also got lots of program options.
Meat
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Alarm Wiring
by Kieron Fox » Sat Apr 02, 2005 5:19 am
Excellent display of colour coding and expertise on the wiring subject...but would nay one know the colours for
the electric mirrors, windows, sunroof and also rear roof shutters?
Well i might aswell close it all down on the touch of a button.
cheers and thanks for any help Arctic Fox
Kieron Fox
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Re: Alarm Wiring

by meatypete » Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:44 pm
Kieron Fox wrote:Excellent display of colour coding and expertise on the wiring subject...but would
nay one know the colours for the electric mirrors, windows, sunroof and also rear roof shutters?
Well i might aswell close it all down on the touch of a button.
cheers and thanks for any help Arctic Fox
Shame you didn't ask a week or two ago, I had the whole interior linings removed! (a very dirty smoker owned
this one!) anyway best idea is to work from the switches in the ceiling, I'm thinking of adding the windows and
sunroof to my system also, cannot really see the point in doing the rest though? Sorry to say that I forgot to note
these wires.... (Duh!) If you do it before I do, let us know here please.
Meat
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Alarm Wiring
by Kieron Fox » Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:53 pm
I havew also got all the interior panels removed along with all seatd and the centre console and the instrument
panel. I would fit the alarm myself but i need it to be certificated for insurance purposes
It will cost around 300 pounds cash and will have all the toys, i beleive the sunroof will be the tricky part as the
closing has to be a two stage supply or a timed interupt
I decied to get the blokey (ornice young girl) to fit it now whilst it was all aprt so we can see all. I have several
box`s containing tricks one under drivers seat, one in passenger foot well, one in drivers footwell two in the
centre of footwells any idea what these units are??

I have also during removal of the instrument panel found i have a couple of the small bulbs and holders missing,
one being water level, one being the front fogs, parking or brake sensor light, and also wheel lock. I also
managed to crack the front clear plastic whilst fitting my MPH convertor ..... Never mind i will get my guy to
make a note of the exact point of where he connected the wires and also what colours were for what.
cheers for now Arctic
Kieron Fox
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by irsa » Tue Apr 05, 2005 5:18 pm
So who's going to fit remote start? I'm tempted to try when I get ours.
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ME ME ME
by Kieron Fox » Thu Apr 07, 2005 2:15 am
I do not have any problem with installing you rlalrm however you will need to send a couple of tickets for the
wife and i and also we will require a bedroom with a view!
other than that we are happy to rough it...
let me know when to expect the tickets...Arctic
Kieron Fox
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Alarm install
by scottie » Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:48 pm
Hi Guys,
I'm installing my immobilser myself and found my 95 Super Exceed didn't have the same coloured wires as
meatypete's. The indicator wires in the column of mine were as follows :-
left - green/red with 2 x silver spots

right - green/yellow with 2 x silver spots
Both are +12V. There are two green/red wires with two silver dots, you need to use the inside one.
HTH :D
scottie
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by robmitch111 » Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:22 am
Hi all,
I have finally taken delivery of our new toy, and now I have to install the alarm/immobiliser. I have done the
central locking and shock sensing/door open sensing hook-ups and all good so far (thanks mainly to previous
posts here). What I need to do now is the:
1) Immobilisation wire
Meatypetesays that the immobilisation wire is on the steering column - thick black wire with yellow stripe. Dont
like the thought of chopping up that nice fat wire and running it through the little immobiliser wire of mine...
Anyone know where the fuel pump solenoid wire is? Or another point for immobilisation?
2) Engine running sensing
I need to get a positive signal when the engine is running. Oil pressure would be good. Anyone know of where
to pick up a positive voltage when there is oil pressure?
Cheers everyone
95 LWB Diesel Super (Blue on Silver)
robmitch111
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Re: Remote Central Locking hook up L400

by PEKOiSM » Mon Jan 14, 2013 11:13 am
I know this thread is an oldie (but a goodie), so I'll add to it, rather than starting afresh.
I've just started putting in the alarm in my '94 L400, and I too am having a nightmare with the remote central
locking.
The unit comes with a five-wire for the master, and three two wire slaves. I have contacted the alarm company
for further clarification on what the three extra control wires do in the master, but I haven't had much luck
working it out yet. It didn't seem like they switch to ground (or to 12v) when locking/unlocking. (The two 'slave'
wires that are common in all four provide 12v on activation)
I managed to directly wire the remote in to the actuator in the driver's door and control that. I thought that the
other doors would also 'sense' that the door is locking/unlocking and also trigger. It didn't seem to work that way.
I could hear the actuator in the rear door, but the other two remained stationary.
Does anyone know how the other doors 'sense' that the driver's door is locked? I can see that there is something
connected to the key-barrel, but the central locking also locks the other doors when the locked/unlocked latch is
engaged (and that just seems like a mechanical connection to the actuator/lock...
... it's doing my head in.

Deli-chan a.k.a Brienne (1994-2014) - L400 2.8L, custom camper interior with mini cinema, 57L Engel fridge,
120AH AGM, 1000w inverter, Unifilter, T0me bash plate, full length roof cage, Terzo ladder, 120W solar panel,
2.5" exhaust, heat exchange hot water, TM4 engine watchdog.
Japan Road Trip - http://www.rvch.net/category/japan/road-trip/

Great Australian Road Trip - http://ausroadtrip.wordpress.com/
PEKOiSM
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My Delica: Deli-chan has gone!
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by Terence Yuen » Tue Jan 15, 2013 3:37 pm
PEKOiSM,
PEKOiSM wrote:I managed to directly wire the remote in to the actuator in the driver's door and
control that. I thought that the other doors would also 'sense' that the door is locking/unlocking and
also trigger. It didn't seem to work that way. I could hear the actuator in the rear door, but the other
two remained stationary.
Does anyone know how the other doors 'sense' that the driver's door is locked? I can see that there is
something connected to the key-barrel, but the central locking also locks the other doors when the
locked/unlocked latch is engaged (and that just seems like a mechanical connection to the
actuator/lock...
The door lock actuators are controlled by the door lock control unit. Normally, the door lock control unit holds
the door lock actuator wires to ground, and when "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" is operated, the door lock control unit
momentarily turns on 12V to either the LOCK or UNLOCK wires. Your aftermarket central door locking unit
feeds 12V to either grounded actuator wires, so you get poor door lock actuation and possible damage to the
wires, the door lock control unit and the aftermarket central door locking unit. The simple fix is to disconnect the
factory door lock control unit. It is located just above the flasher unit, which you can listen out for by turning on
the hazard warning lamp.
Former: 1983 Starwagon 1.8 5M/T

Current: 2000 Starwagon 2.0 4A/T
Terence Yuen
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by PEKOiSM » Tue Jan 15, 2013 4:19 pm
Terence Yuen wrote:PEKOiSM,
PEKOiSM wrote:I managed to directly wire the remote in to the actuator in the driver's
door and control that. I thought that the other doors would also 'sense' that the door is
locking/unlocking and also trigger. It didn't seem to work that way. I could hear the
actuator in the rear door, but the other two remained stationary.
Does anyone know how the other doors 'sense' that the driver's door is locked? I can see
that there is something connected to the key-barrel, but the central locking also locks
the other doors when the locked/unlocked latch is engaged (and that just seems like a
mechanical connection to the actuator/lock...
The door lock actuators are controlled by the door lock control unit. Normally, the door lock control
unit holds the door lock actuator wires to ground, and when "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" is operated,
the door lock control unit momentarily turns on 12V to either the LOCK or UNLOCK wires. Your
aftermarket central door locking unit feeds 12V to either grounded actuator wires, so you get poor
door lock actuation and possible damage to the wires, the door lock control unit and the aftermarket
central door locking unit. The simple fix is to disconnect the factory door lock control unit. It is
located just above the flasher unit, which you can listen out for by turning on the hazard warning
lamp.
Hi Terence, thanks for the reply.

I found the lock control unit, I was hoping I could wire my alarm direct to the control wires as mentioned above
"The small red wire with green stripe is the unlock wire. The small green wire with a white stripe is the lock
wire", but as you said, they're switched from ground, and my alarm doesn't have that capability...
I'm confused about the damage you talk about... I'm assuming that 12v is sent to either the lock, or the unlock
side of the actuator by the lock control unit? I've disconnected the driver's actuator from the original wiring
loom, and have instead wired it direct to the 12v lock/unlock signal of the alarm. It too is momentary. No other
wiring (related to the central locking) has been modified/touched. I was hoping that the other two wires (the two
small wires) connected to the driver's actuator were 'sense' wires to control the lock control unit.. and that by
moving the actuator with my alarm, it would then trigger the central locking relay and the rest of the doors to
follow. :(

PEKOiSM
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Location: London
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by Terence Yuen » Wed Jan 16, 2013 6:43 pm
PEKOiSM, you have separated the two control units, which is good. That possible damage to the control units
cannot happen. When I wrote that post, I thought the driver's side front door lock actuator was connected to the
wiring harness.
At the driver's side front door lock actuator connector, are the other two pins, which are for the door lock control
unit to detect whether that door lock is in the LOCK or UNLOCK position, connected to the vehicle wiring
harness? You can test the vehicle's central door locking system by connecting a bridging wire from the black/red
wire to the vehicle earth and then removing that bridging wire. The driver's side front door lock actuator,
including the LOCK/UNLOCK position switch, is to be unplugged from the wiring harness for this test. The
black wire there is a short to earth.
I know that some of you will say that the fuse is there to prevent damage to the electrics, but I have once shorted
out an aftermarket car alarm control unit, which I then find that the printed circuit in the control unit is thinner
than the 10A fuse that protects it.
Former: 1983 Starwagon 1.8 5M/T

Current: 2000 Starwagon 2.0 4A/T
Terence Yuen
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Location: Australia | Victoria | Melbourne E
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Immobiliser Wiring
by PEKOiSM » Tue Apr 09, 2013 6:59 pm
This thread had some information about installing alarms etc, so I thought I'd just share something.
I put in an immobiliser as part of an alarm installation, but it didn't seem that the immobiliser worked. I would
trigger the alarm, but the car could still start. I put it on the back-burner, trying to finish more pressing jobs first.
Finally started looking at it again tonight.
The relay cut the starter circuit, had +12v for the coil coming from the IGN 12v, and the alarm switched to
ground to open the relay. I thought that there was a fault with the alarm, until I realised that the problem was that
even though there was +12v coming from the IGN, when I went to start the motor, the voltage drop brought the
voltage basically down to zero, de-energising the coil and closing the circuit, allowing the starter motor to start.
Re-wired it to have the coil fed from the large red 12v supply to the key barrel (so it is always fed). This was the
only line that I could find in the steering column that didn't drop right down when cranking.
Maybe common sense for some, but I blindly followed the installation instructions and connected as per the
drawings and caused all sorts of frustration trying to trouble shoot.

PEKOiSM
Posts: 375
Location: London
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Remote Central Locking hook up L400

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Remote Central Locking hook up L400

by michaelr » Tue Aug 24, 2004 12:00 am

I asked but no one helped me on this one, so I went it alone!

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by loosescrews » Thu Aug 26, 2004 7:46 pm

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Alarm / remote locking / indicator removal

You are welcome Loosescrews,

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Further wiring info.....

by meatypete » Fri Jan 07, 2005 8:43 pm

This is relevant to my 95' Super Exceed.

green/yellow with x2 silver spots = LOCK

Drivers door Light (for voltage sensing) is in the same loom:

red/black with x1 silver spot (+)

yellow/red with x1 silver spot

green/red with x2 silver spots = Left Hand Inds.

I think that's it.

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by feral 2 » Sat Jan 08, 2005 7:15 am

Great work guys. Shout yourselves a beer or two.

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by meatypete » Sun Jan 09, 2005 8:47 pm

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by DaveL400 » Tue Jan 11, 2005 9:21 pm

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by meatypete » Sun Jan 16, 2005 7:26 pm

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cheers and thanks for any help Arctic Fox

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Re: Alarm Wiring

cheers and thanks for any help Arctic Fox

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by Kieron Fox » Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:53 pm

centre of footwells any idea what these units are??

cheers for now Arctic

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by irsa » Tue Apr 05, 2005 5:18 pm

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by Kieron Fox » Thu Apr 07, 2005 2:15 am

other than that we are happy to rough it...

let me know when to expect the tickets...Arctic

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left - green/red with 2 x silver spots

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by robmitch111 » Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:22 am

2) Engine running sensing

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Re: Remote Central Locking hook up L400

... it's doing my head in.

Japan Road Trip - http://www.rvch.net/category/japan/road-trip/

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Re: Remote Central Locking hook up L400

Former: 1983 Starwagon 1.8 5M/T

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Re: Remote Central Locking hook up L400

Terence Yuen wrote:PEKOiSM,

Hi Terence, thanks for the reply.

Japan Road Trip - http://www.rvch.net/category/japan/road-trip/