HISTORY OF FASHION ELECTRONIC

CLIP FILE

Anna Murphy
THE EARLY MIDDLE
AGES
 The Early Middle Ages were dominated by cultural influences and the distinctions between social classes. The
Byzantine Empire controlled most of the Mediterranean during the 6th century. This allowed them to have a great influence
on other civilizations around them, especially in fashion. As time continued on the Byzantine empire was inspired by
eastern cultures to add great decoration to their garments. Their newly ornamented fashions caught the attention of royalty
and were used to symbolize the separation between social classes. Those who were not able to afford the new fashions
were subjected to the simple garments of the lower class. Transitioning from the styles of the Byzantine Empire, Western
Europe also experienced a development in fashion. This development was generated by cultural influences and social
classes from the 10th through the 13th centuries. The first form of dress, seen during the 10th and 11th centuries, were
influenced by Barbarian and Roman styles, which produced garments such as the knee-length tunic and leg bandages.
These garments signified a lower class because the length of the tunic. If someone had a long tunic it showed their wealth
because they could afford more fabric and not have to perform manual labor. While a short tunic symbolized the lower
class because it not only cost less, but was easier to work in. Another factor that influenced fashions of the 11th century
were the crusades that ventured into the Middle East. When they returned from their travels they brought back new
techniques, products, and ideas that prompted fashions worn by the Europeans. By the 12th century the loose style of
garments seen earlier were now more closely fitted.
An example would be the transition from the tunic to the bliaut, which was a garment worn by the upper-class and was cut
to fit. Although the bliaut had a more complex and unique silhouette, it’s popularity died out by the beginning of the 13th
century. Instead, loose fitting garments became fashionable again. Garments produced in the 13th century that reflected
loose-fitting silhouettes were the garnache and the herigaut. The garnache was a cloak that had cape like sleeves. While
the herigaut was a garment that had slits in the front, below the shoulder, resembling false sleeves. Both of theses garments
were popular for men and were generally worn outdoors. By the end of The Early Middle Ages there were significantly
more garments and styles than seen previously, due to the inspired looks of varying cultures and social classes.
 THE HERIGAUT

The false sleeve of the heirgaut is what

defines this garment and it can be seen in
both the historical outer garment and in the
refined Valentino dress.

Phelps, N. (n.d.). Pre-Fall 2014 Valentino. Retrieved November 16, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/valentino/slideshow/collection#60

M., B. G. (1999). La techumbre mudéjar de la Catedral de Teruel (1st ed.). Retrieved November 16, 2016, from
https://www.almendron.com/artehistoria/arte/arquitectura/la-techumbre-de-la-catedral-de-teruel/la-armadura-de-par-y-nudillo/
THE NORTHERN
RENAISSANCE
 The Northern Renaissance created new perspectives that opened the door for the development of new fashions and
ideas. Cultural and political influences, communication, and the advancements in technology all played a crucial role in the
development of fashion during The Northern Renaissance. The influences of German and Spanish fashions dominated
many of the styles and garments seen during this time period. Two of the prominent styles created by these cultures,
adapted by both men and women, were slashing and the ruff collar. Slashing, was inspired by the Swiss Army of Germany,
while the ruff collar originated in Spain and was worn as added decoration around one’s neck. Another influence in the
fashions of Northern Europe were the Medici Queens, Catherine and Marie. They were said to have started the trend of
wearing a stiff, large, neck piece that was a cross between a collar and a ruff and stood very tall behind their heads. This
style eventually became known as the Medici collar. The impacts of the cultural and political inspired fashions were not
only being adopted by individuals because of the status of all three influencers during this time period, but also because of
a new form of communication. This new form of communication was books and they helped to increase the spread of new
fashions around Northern Europe. The last major impacts on fashion during the 17th century were knitting and lacemaking,
which were both advancements in garment making technologies. Knitting helped to improve the quality of stockings and
lacemaking was used to add decorative touches to garments. An additional fashion style that became favorable for men and
women during The Northern Renaissance was the desire for exaggerated body widths.
For example, men during the middle of the 17th century dramatized the width of their shoulders and towards the end of
the century they focused on increasing the width of their hips, along with women. The many influential aspects of The
Northern Renaissance caused fashions to be adapted more rapidly than ever before.
 SLASHING

The precise slashing design in both the

historical and contemporary garments
reveal the contrasting under and outer
pieces of fabric.

Henrik Vibskov Spring/Summer 2015 Ready-To-Wear Collection. (2014, August 7). Retrieved November
24, 2016, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2015-ready-to-wear/henrik-
vibskov/collection/
Tortora, P. G., & Marcketti, S. B. (2015). The Northern Renaissance. In Survey of historic costume (6th ed., p. 213).
New York, NY: Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing.
 THE BUSTLE
PERIOD AND THE
NINETIES
 The advancements in the production and the growth of textiles, apparel, and technology played a significant role in
the expansion of fashion during The Bustle Period and the Nineties. A few of theses advancements include the sewing
machine, sized paper patterns, and the opening of department stores where ready-to-wear apparel could be sold, all of which
led to more rapid fashion changes. An example of one of these changes is the three stages that the bustle experienced from
1870 to 1890. The first stage, from 1870 to 1878 was a bustle that created a full drapery effect at the back of the skirt. The
second stage, from 1878 to 1883, focused more on fullness below the hips at the back of the skirt. The final stage, from 1884
to 1890, created a large and rigid, shelf-like appearance at the back of a women’s dress. After the 1890s fashion continued to
flourish but with less attention focused toward the back of women’s garments. Instead, during the nineties women’s
silhouettes resembled an hourglass. During the 1890s changes in social behavior among women began emerging. Women
began taking interest in sports, which required a wardrobe that was suitable for the activities they were participating in. A
popular sport for a woman at this time was cycling. A typical outfit for a woman cyclist might consist of bloomers with a
skirt over-top, or a shirtwaist and a skirt. Although garments were modified for women’s sports, they were still constricting
and required women to sit in an upright position. Another reason for practical clothing during the nineties was the fact that
women were joining the workforce, thus creating a demand for tailor-mades and shirtwaists, which were sometimes seen
with a leg-of-mutton styled sleeve.
The relationship between costume and the arts also influenced this time period. A particular creation, known as Art
Nouveau became the inspiration for turn of the century styles, such as the s-shaped silhouette. Art Nouveau was also used
for fabric and jewelry designs. Men’s fashions during The Bustle Period and Nineties did not see as many changes as
women’s. A few of the styles worn by men were the Norfolk jacket that belted, the ulster, which was a long coat that came
with a full or half-belt and a detachable hood, and the fedora hat. The styles for both women and men from The Bustle
Period and the Nineties were all products of the changes in the development of the fast growing future of fashion.
THE BUSTLE

The rigid, full back fashion of the

bustle period has been reimagined
by Ashi Studio into a softer and
more romantic design. This is
accomplished by strategically
placing pleats along the back of
their gown.

FW 2014. (n.d.). Retrieved November 17, 2016, from http://ashistudio.com/?q=fw-2014

Parks Named For Famous Women and Historical Figures. (n.d.). Retrieved November 17, 2016, from
https://www.nycgovparks.org/about/history/women/famous
THE TWENTIES
 The roaring twenties were a time of changes in social behavior and social roles that led to a flourishing fashion
experience for many women. Women were finally able to break the mold of the typical woman and reveal a part of
themselves that had never been acceptable in the eyes of society before. With the Nineteenth Amendment granting women
the right to vote, and more women than ever before attending and completing high school and college, they were inspired
to express their newly obtained freedoms. The two themes of social behavior and social roles for women created the new
look that many females seeking the latest fashions adopted. This look consisted of shorter hemlines, the use of cosmetics,
and hairstyles that resembled those of men’s. Garments for women that emerged during the twenties included unfitted
silhouettes in both day-time and evening wear, or the alternative silhouette of the robe de style with a dropped waistline
and a full skirt. Another style that was adapted by women were cosmetics, such as rouge and lip stain, which women had
been frowned upon for using in the past. The last drastic change that many women embraced were short hairstyles. These
hairstyles consisted of the shingle, which was a bob where the hair at the back of the head was cut and tapered like that of
a mans and the Eton crop, which was a hairstyle that was closely cropped and styled like a mans. Additional fashions that
were common for women in the 1920s were cloche hats, headache bands, and ensembles, which also followed the unfitted
silhouette of the twenties. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel also had an influence on the fashions that emerged during the 1920s
because of her garments practical and stylish appearances.
While she did not become widely known until the middle of the 1900s, she began growing her brand during the twenties,
in both the United States and Paris. Men’s costume components during the twenties were far less dramatic than women’s.
These fashions consisted of Oxford bags, which were wide legged trousers, the Barrymore collar, named after a famous
actor of the twenties, and turtleneck jersey, originally used for sportswear but adapted as an alternative for a suit and tie.
The 1920s will forever be remembered for it’s show-stopping and alluring fashions because of the new lifestyles many
women adapted.
ROBE DE STYLE

The elegant dropped waist

and full skirt silhouette of the
robe de style is still apparent
but more exaggerated in the
contemporary recreation.

House of Lanvin. (n.d.). Retrieved November 17, 2016, from http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/94723

Phelps, N. (2015, January 7). Rochas Pre-Fall 2015. Retrieved November 13, 2016, from http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-
2015/rochas/slideshow/collection#17
THE SIXTIES
 The greatest influences on the fashions of the nineteen-sixties were politics and social changes. A few of the
political influences include The Kennedy Family and their status amongst the American people, not only as the Presidential
Family, but also as great fashion motivators. For example, the styles of Mrs. Kennedy were imitated by many women. These
styles included the Bouffant hairstyle, A-line skirts, and oversized sunglasses. Another political influence was the Vietnam
war, which encouraged rebellion and led to the widespread popularity of blue jeans. These blue jeans were typically worn in
the hip hugger style, which were fitted in the waist and then flared around the leg. The Civil Rights Movement also played a
key role as a political influencer. This movement led to styles of dress for African Americans that expressed their culture and
traditions. One of these styles was the afro which revealed their natural self and ranged in size. Along with politics playing
a significant role in the sixties, social changes and the idea of “style tribes” helped to establish a variety of styles that many
individuals adopted. Two “style tribes” that emerged were the mods and the hippies. The mods, who first originated in
Britain, were known to be self-expressive and have a refined look of elegance. One of the most popular garments associated
with the female mods was the miniskirt and for male mods, leisure suits. Their style tribe quickly became known because of
a celebrity group that promoted their style, The Beatles. Soon everyone was wearing miniskirts, leisure suits, and long hair.
The hippies were similar to the mods in the way of their self-expressive behavior but instead of wearing the iconic styles of
the mods, they wore free flowing garments that resembled gypsylike clothing.
A few notable pieces of dress that the hippies would have been seen wearing were love beads, headbands, and thrift store
inspired garments. Due to the wide popularity and coverage of these two style tribes many mainstream styles were
inspired by their choices of dress. Along with the styles that developed from the mods and the hippies, a few other styles
were widely favorable in the sixties. For women these styles included short, loose-fitting dresses, body suits, and go go
boots, which were popular among teenage girls. Men’s garments included body shirts, Nehru jackets, and turtlenecks.
The sixties were filled with fashions that emerged from individuals who sought to express themselves through the
garments, accessories, and hairstyles that represented their true personalities and what they believed.
 GO GO BOOTS

The mid-calf boot that was

typically white in color, though
sold in multiple colors have made
a very strong reappearance in
women's fashion today and are
again being offered in an array of
color options.

Boohoo Knee High Block Heeled Boot. (n.d.). Retrieved November 13, 2016, from http://us.asos.com/boohoo/boohoo-knee-high-block-heeled-
boot/prd/7054347?iid=7054347&clr=Black&SearchQuery=&cid=4172&pgesize=36&pge=1&totalstyles=332&gridsize=3&gridrow=8&gridcolumn=3
Unknown | [Three Views, Various Subjects: Coney Island Hotdog Stand, Woman in Hawaiian Costume, Two Women in Front of Swimming Pool] | The Met. (n.d.). Retrieved November 13, 2016, from
http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/282331