sure that there are no dents, or knicks in the cowling, as this will show up

later.
Now coat the entire cowling with wax mold release, found at most
nautical supply stores, and fiberglass stores. This will allow the lay ups of
fiberglass to easily be pulled off the mold.
To lay up the fiberglass, I used medium weight boat cloth found at
Wal Mart stores, or any hardware store. I also used “Bondo” brand
polyester
resin and hardener. You want to lay up at least three layers of glass on the
entire cowling. Also make sure that you extend the fiberglass onto the
aluminum part of the cowling at least 1” so that you can attach it with pk
screws later. Let cure for the time specified by the manufacturer of the
resin.
To seperate the mold from the glass part, slide a butter knife between
the foam and glass, and working your way around the part, apply pressure
until it pops free. Clean up the surface of the cowling with sandpaper, until
it
is smooth and free of dents and knicks.
Carefully measure the cutouts for the engine and prop, and draw them
on the cowling. Carefully cut away larger and larger sections of the
cowling,
until your motor and prop flange clear the cowling, with enough room left
for vibration, without the cowling touching any part of the engine.
You can bolt the engine back into place, and test fit the cowling. Make
any changes necessary, then attach the cowling to the airframe using PK
screws.
Windscreen
The windscreen is made from 1/8” acrylic plastic. Lay out the 1” square
lines on a large piece of paper, and transfer the outline to the paper. Then
transfer the paper cutout to the plastic. Cut with a jigsaw and clean up the
edges with sandpaper. Make up the windscreen clips and pop rivet to the
cockpit area shown on the plans. Bend the windscreen to follow the top
cowling, and drill through the plastic using the clips as a guide. Pop rivet in
place.
Elevator
The elevator is made on the same table we built the fuselage on, and
isfactory bearings