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Seville’s motto is “No me ha dejado”—“It has not forsaken me”. Hinting as it does at
the captivating effect this city has on all who visit it, it couldn’t be more appropriate
for the Andalusian capital. Here are seven reasons why Seville should be on
everyone’s bucket list.
Bullfighting and the bullring
The controversial spectacle of bullfighting is at the heart of Sevillano culture, a fact which is reflected
in the First Category status of its beautiful 18th-century bullring. Though technically it shares this
status with six other arenas in Spain, aficionados will tell you the only other plaza de toros to rival
Seville’s in prestige is Madrid’s enormous Las Ventas. Even if you’re not prepared to experience what
happens on the bright sands of the Real Maestranza (as the Seville plaza is called), a visit to this
historic bullring is a must if you’re in the Andalusian capital: it houses a fascinating museum exploring
the history of the spectacle, alongside a shop selling the beautifully-designed posters used to
advertise bullfights. If you want to see for yourself what the impassioned debate is about, visit Seville
during its great Feria de Abril, when several bullfights of the highest quality are held.
Plaza de Toros de Sevilla, 12 Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, Seville, Spain, +34 954 22 45 77
Triana
There are no shortage of neighbourhoods in Andalusia where time stands to have stood still; barrios
in which the homogenising trends of modernity have failed to take hold. One of the most enchanting
of them all is Triana, the former gypsy quarter of Seville sitting on the other side of the river from the
historic city centre. Many great flamenco artists and bullfighters have come from its attractive yellow
and white-fronted houses, which are decorated with the pretty tile mosaics for which Triana is
famous; indeed, as you arrive here via the Isabel II bridge, you are greeted by a statue of Juan
Belmonte, the Triana-born matador said to be the greatest of the 20th century. Triana is also packed
with traditional tapas bars—kitted out with the mandatory mounted bulls’ heads, bullfighting posters
and pictures of a weeping Virgin Mary—offering insanely cheap drinks and snacks, meaning you can
keep yourself well-refreshed whilst exploring this unforgettable neighbourhood.
A trip to Seville’s Royal Alcázar Palace is a must for fans of Mudéjar architecture — the name given
to a blend of Moorish and Renaissance styles that is found in many of the Andalusian capital’s great
monuments. The Alcázar, though, is the most impressive of them all. Work on this great palace
began in the 10th century and continued, on and off, until the 19th century, resulting in a structure
that showcases an intriguing mix of Moorish and Mudéjar architecture, with the latter style being
particularly notable in the archways of the Alcázar’s elegant internal courtyards. Indeed, the interiors
of this beautiful building match anything you’ll see in Granada’s Alhambra. Real Alcázar de Sevilla,
Patio de Banderas s/n, Seville, Spain,+34 954 50 23 24
Santa Cruz
The old Jewish quarter of Seville has not changed much over the past few centuries (like Triana) and
should be one of the first areas you explore when visiting here. It was into Santa Cruz that Ferdinand
III banished the city’s Jewish population when he took Seville from the Moors in 1248; and brutal
though the King undoubtedly was, one can’t help feeling, wandering around this maze of colourful
houses and winding, cobbled streets, that there could have been worse places in which to be
confined. Discovering Santa Cruz’s secret little squares and alleyways is a great way to spend a few
hours in Seville, all the more so because the area is packed with traditional tapas joints where you
can sample local specialities like stewed bull’s tail and pork in whisky sauce. It’s also a great place to
check out flamenco, with the superb Museo Baile Flamenco (Flamenco Dance Museum) offering a
fascinating exposition of the art’s complex history and nightly shows featuring some of Andalusia’s
top performers.
Museo Baile Flamenco, Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos 3, Seville, Spain, +34 954 34 03 11