13 TABBY LOOM INTRODUCTION The first weaving design is for a simple tabby loom as shown in Fig. 13.2. It is an ideal subject for a beginner because it introduces the foundations of weaving, heddles, sheds, and warping up, etc., an understanding of which is necessary before pro- gressing to the larger and more complicated looms. In the weaving prologue the frame loom with rollers was mentioned briefly (Fig. 12.5), and the tabby loom can be looked upon as a very simple adaptation of this, but with a fixed heddle rather than a leash pole arrangement for lifting the threads, and which dispenses with the need for a shed stick. Another modification is the introduction ofa breast and back beam above the end rollers, as shown in Fig. 13.1. These area common feature of all looms which use a controlled heddle movement, thus requiring a uniform warp line. An arrangement where the warp is connested directly between a pair of rollers (eg. Fig. 12.5) would not give this, as the warp line would vary as yarn is transferred from one to the other. DESIGN ‘The general arrangement drawings are given in Fig. 13.3 and the associated parts list in Table-14. The BREAST i BEAM BACK RIGID HEDOLE BEAM Fig. 19.4 Shed formation loom consists of two side frames (1) joined by cross bars (2) and (3). Fitted through each end is a warp/cloth beam (4). The warp is connected be- tween these passing up and over the breast and back beams (2), Fitted in the middle is a rigid heddle (® supported in a crossbar (10). The latter rests in one of three pairs of slots 'X’, 'Y’ or ‘Z’ in the side frames (see Fig. 13.4 section AA). ‘Weaving tabby, half the warp threads (i.e. alter- nate ones) pass through the heddle eyes, while the remeinder pass straight through between the front and back beams. Thus moving the heddle support bar (10) to slot ‘X’ will lift half the warp threads, forming a shed above the warp line. Conversely, lowering this to slot ‘Z’ will form a shed below this. Weaving is accomplished by alternately switching the shed above and below the warp line, and passinga shuttle loaded with weft through the shed each time. Therigid heddlealso serves conveniently as a beater. The warp tension is maintained by a ratchet and pawl fitted to each roller. The latter are also each equipped with an apron cloth arrange- ment, This is 4 standard means by which a warp is connected to the rollers, and is discussed later. CONSTRUCTION Before you start, first purchase the rigid heddle. This is nominally 380mm (15in) wide, but can vary a little, and may thus marginally affect the width dimensions given. They can be purchased in other widths, if required, and the loom width altered to suit, Sources of rigid pattern heddles are given in the list of suppliers (p. 187). ‘The side frames are made from 12mm (in) thick plywood, preferably birch faced multiply, rather than stoutheart to make a better job. It should be possible to cut out both from a piece of plywoodFig. 13.2 Tabby loom 500 X 870mm (20 X 15in) with careful sawing. Note that the design is based on an overall heddle height of 72mm (2in). If this is different some changes to the starred dimensions will be required. In cutting out the side frames take the opportunity to machine the 38mm (14in) diameter roller holes as well as the slots °X’, “Y’ and ‘2’, before doing any assembly work, Breast/back beams The breast and back beams (2), and the crossbars (8) are all from 45% 10mm (2x fin) section softwood. In the case of the breast and back beams the edges are rounded over to providea smooth passage for the warp. They should, all be the same length, square at the ends, and are screwed/glue fixed to the sides. Use long screws as they are being fixed into end grain. Rollers The rollers (4) are woodturned, and are nominally 38mm (1Jin) diameter 515mm (20}in) long. Again the actual heddle width may marginally affect the roller length. Machine the rollers to be snug, but freely rotating in the side frame holes. If woodturning facilities are not available this can probably be overcome by trimming a square bar carefully round. First plane it octagonal, then cut the corners down, finally sanding these round. A 10mm (fin) diameter handle (5) is then fitted in a transversely drilled hole through one end of each roller, The latter can then be offered to the frame and held in position by two retaining pins (6) made from ‘3mm (fin) diameter stainless steel or aluminium rod. Ratchets and pawls Ratchets and pawls (7) and (8) are always the most difficult items to make, a problem compounded by the fact that there are few if any commercial sources. To ease construction these have been made as large as practically possible and of wood rather than metal, since some may find the latter tedious to cut out. The dimen- sional details and fixing are given in Fig. 13.5. Use 12mm (in) birch faced plywood, as for the sides. ToFig. 19.6 Apron cloth and rod arrangements, 35010) r | ai te) 13) SHUTTLE Fig. 19.7 Shuitle dimensions make a good job they should be accurately marked out and cut. The hole in the centre should be almost a tight fit on the roller ends. You may find one of the adjustable tip type wood twist bits ideal for this. Experiment first on a piece of scrap plywood until you feel the hole size is correct. The ratchets are glue fixed onto the roller ends, but it might be worth considering pinning them transversely as well. Pre- drill the pin hole so the plywood does not split. Heddle The rigid heddle is fitted in a 20x 16mm @ fin) section support bar (10), and is pin fixedin a groove in this item. The length of the support bar may be affected by the choice of heddle, as previ- ously discussed. Aproncloth rods ‘Thelast items to fit to theloomare an apron cloth and rod arrangement as shown in Fig. 13.6. Each apron cloth (11) is made from a piece of 380mm (15in) square strong canvas, calico or equivalent material. This is sewn overat one end to makea sleeve to fit an 18x 4 x 400mm @X $x 15fin) long apron rod, At the opposite end the apron cloth is doubled over and tacked squarely to the roller. Four apron rods are required. Finally you need to make a shuttle to the details in Fig. 13.7. TABBY LOOM WEAVING Weaving on the tabby loom, indeed on any loom, is not as simple as it first might seem. The actual process of weaving is the easy part, and fairly straightforward. However, the key to successlies to a large degree in correctly mounting the warp onto the loom at the start. This warping up procedure, or method of beaming on say 150-200 threads in a controlled manner without tangle, securing it to the apron rods, and evenly tensioning out, is a skill in itself. Itrequires the use ofanother essential piece of weaving equipment called the warping frame, or alternatively warping posts. The design of this is the subject of the next chapter, and so the details of warping up the tabby loom ready for weaving are discussed later at the conclusion of this next chapter.VIEW AS ARROW ‘8° Fig, 18.8 General arrangement of tabby loomGG) oT ba To sur EDO & PW RX. WARE ume Fig. 13.4 Sectional arrangement of tabby loom | Table 14: Tabby Loom Parts List Sr tem |Dewcipton No ot Dimensions 2. 2g $8. ‘ ge 1 |Side frame — [2 ee ae eal se << 8 Gaon 15 fin tHe i ia eaaveeae Om [ecnstea aasaaenTg @© n. aovertce hen fiction t > fowmter fe, [aonwad [522005 ing 7 Ru geiee @ ewcuer wees ree fe |warpctots fa Softwood | 42 0.x 590 bg ies tial Seah fs |iianate [2 Hard | 10 da x300 ong oe | inden oy [Retaining pin [a | Staintss [3 dia x50 ong steel | indi aon 7 Ratchet fa | Pywood [a5 a,x 12 tack pag ta hel foe | nygecd | soxaeee mack xpain ie it rads Tol Ti | sei nl oad peer Racal Hse fo [Hedatesupport|i | sottwood | 2016306 long he Pees ft [apron [i [canvas | s80sq, 05m 2a) fa [aproniod ft | Hardwood | 79243400 long Reto VIEW AS ARROW ‘C” fa [Shute fi | Hardwood | 73.380 lng SEE Fig. 19.5 Ratchet and pawl dimensions