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 Yun Shu - 云舒

This doll is originally designed by HJ-Handmade and exclusive permission is given to Crochetwawa to translated it to English.

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Designer:
♥ HJ-Handmade

Materials:
♥ DK yarn or 5-ply or equivalent in skin, white, dark blue, coffee, small amount of light blue
and yellow colour
♥ 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm crochet hook
♥ 8.0 mm safety eyes or doll eyes of your choice
♥ Pipe cleaners or soft wire
♥ Poly-Fil
♥ Fabric glue
♥ Yarn needle

Abbreviation key:
♥ ch = chain
♥ sc = single crochet
♥ hdc = half double crochet
♥ dc = double crochet
♥ tr = treble crochet
♥ st(s) = stitch or stitches
♥ inc = increase (make 2 sts in one st)
♥ dec = invisible decrease (insert hook in the front loops of the next 2 sts, yarn over, pull
through first 2 loops, yarn over, pull through both loops)
♥ sl st = slip stitch
♥ sk = skip stitch
♥ MR = magic ring
♥ YO = yarn over
♥ FO = finish off
♥ FLO = front loop only
♥ BLO = back loop only
♥ [ ] = follow step(s) inside and repeat the number of times as indicated
♥ reverse sc = reverse single crochet, also known as crab stitch [refer to 2nd last page]

Gauge:
♥ Gauge is not critical as long as consistent tension is applied

Notes:
♥ Most body parts are started using a magic ring and worked in joined rounds unless
otherwise indicated. Start every round with a Ch 1. End every round with sl st to the
first sc. Ch 1 and start in the same stitch.
♥ If you are not familiar with the magic ring, you may wish to start with ch 2 and crochet the
indicated number of sts into the 2nd ch from the hook.
♥ We use 2.5mm hook for the doll’s body and clothes, 3.5mm for the doll’s hair and hat.
♥ We insert soft wire into the limbs, body and head of the doll before stuffing with poly-fil

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writing, re-selling, distributing, or copying the pattern itself is prohibited. Thank you for your
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Arms (make 2)
Using yarn in skin colour and 2.5mm hook,
Round 1: 5 sc in MR = 5 sts
Round 2-13: sc around = 5 sts [note: join arms at Round 35 of the body]

Legs (make 2)
Using yarn in skin colour and 2.5mm hook,
Round 1: 5 sc in MR = 5 sts
Round 2: sc around = 5 sts
Row 3: 3 sc, turn, ch 1 = 3 sts [note: Row 3-4 are worked in rows instead of rounds]
Row 4: 3 sc, turn, ch 1 = 3 sts [note: Round 5 onwards are worked in rounds again]

♥ Refer to the picture for Round 5

Round 5: sc, dc, sc, sc on the side edge, 2 sc, sc on the side edge = 7 sts
Round 6: dec, 2 sc, dec, sc = 5 sts
Round 7-14: sc around = 5 sts
Round 15: sc , inc, 3 sc = 6 sts
Round 16-20: sc around = 6 sts
Round 21: 2 sc, inc, 3sc = 7 sts
Round 22-23: sc around = 7 sts
Round 24: 3 sc, inc, 3 sc = 8 sts
Round 25: sc around = 8 sts [note: FO for the first leg (it will be the left leg) and do not
FO for the second leg (this will be the right leg)]

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Body (join legs)
Round 26: Continue crocheting 5 sc on right leg, ch 2, join with the left leg (ensure that
both feet are pointing forward in the same direction) and crochet 8 sc, then
crochet 1 sc on each of the 2 ch, join with right leg and crochet remaining 3 sc,
FO = 20 sts

♥ After completing Round 26, this is

how it should look like.

♥ The doll’s toes are facing forward,

away from you.

[note: you have to cut off the yarn from Round 26 before starting Round 27]

Round 27: starting from the 1st ch of Round 26 (refer to picture above), make a standing
chain and sc in the same hole, then sc around = 20 sts
Round 28: ( dec, 3 sc ) = 16 sts
Round 29: ( dec, 6 sc ) = 14 sts
Round 30: sc around = 14 sts
Round 31: 2 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 2 sc = 12 sts
Round 32-34: sc around = 12 sts
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Round 35: Join arms. Start with 4 sc on body, join left arm with 5 sc, 6 sc on body, join
right arm with 5 sc, 2 sc on body = 22 sts

Round 36: working in BLO, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc = 18 sts

♥ After completing Round 36, this is how it should look like. Ensure that the front loops
are showing. We will be crocheting on the front loops for the blouse portion.

Round 37: ( sc, dec ) x 6 = 12 sts

Round 38: dec x 6 = 6 sts

[note: Do not FO. Crochet the white blouse first before continuing with the head]

White Blouse
[note: There are two parts to the blouse. Ensure that you are holding the doll in the correct
position when crocheting as it will affect how the stitches turn out. Refer to the pictures for
guidance. ]

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White Blouse (Bottom Part)
Holding the body in a legs up position, crochet on the
22 sts of front loops of Round 36. Start at the back of
the body where you sl st.
Using yarn in white colour and 2.5mm hook,
Round 1: 2 sc , inc x 5 ( around the arm ), 6 sc
( on the chest ), inc x 5 ( around the
arm ), 4 sc = 32 sts

Round 2: working in BLO (the loop which is

nearer to the body), 2 sc, ch 2, sk 10
sts around the arm, 6 sc, ch 2, sk 10
sts around the arm, 4 sc = 16 sts

[note: you have created arm holes with your skipped stitches]

Round 3: ( 3 sc, inc ) x 4 = 20 sts

Round 4-8: sc around, FO = 20 sts

White Blouse (Top Part)

Holding the body in a legs down position with toes facing forward and away from you, crochet
on the front loop of Round 2 of the blouse (bottom part) from above. Start at the back of the
body where you sl st.
Round 1: 4 sc, dec x 5 ( around the arm ),
6 sc ( on the chest ), dec x 5
( around the arm ), 2 sc = 22 sts

Round 2: ( 3 sc, dec ) x 4, 2 sc, FO = 18 sts

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Sleeves
Holding the body in a legs down position, insert
your hook into the first chain of Round 2 of the
blouse (bottom part) from above.
(Refer to the picture on the right. The 2 black dots
represent the 2 chains)

Round 1: Starting at the arm pit where the

1st ch is, make a standing chain,
sc in the 2nd ch, and crochet 10 sc
around the arm = 11sts
[note: join with sl st to 1st sc and
ch 1]

Round 2: sc in the nxt st (this is the st after the ch 1, not the st where you made the ch),
3 sc, dec, 4 sc, FO = 9 sts

Head [note: continue crocheting the head after completing Round 38 of the Body]

Using yarn in skin colour and 2.5mm hook

Round 1: sc around = 6 sts
Round 2: ( 2 sc, inc ) = 8 sts
Round 3: inc x 8 = 16 sts
Round 4: ( sc, inc ) x 8 = 24 sts
Round 5: ( 3 sc, inc ) x 6 = 30 sts
Round 6: ( 4 sc, inc ) x 6 = 36 sts
Round 7: ( 5 sc, inc ) x 6 = 42 sts
Round 8-14: sc around = 42 sts
♥ insert doll eyes into the middle of Round 10
and 11, with 7 stitches in between the eyes
Round 15: ( 5 sc, dec ) x 6 = 36 sts
Round 16: ( 10 sc, dec ) x 3 = 33 sts
[note: in order for the head to look smooth
Round 17: ( 9 sc, dec ) x 3 = 30 sts
and round, you have to stuff more poly-fil]
Round 18: ( 3 sc, dec ) x 3 = 24 sts
Round 19: dec x 12 = 12 sts
Round 20: dec x 6, FO = 6 sts
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writing, re-selling, distributing, or copying the pattern itself is prohibited. Thank you for your
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Blue Jumper Suit [note: There are two parts to the blue jumper, top and bottom]
Using yarn in light blue colour and 2.5mm hook,

Blue Jumper Suit (Bottom)

Start by making 24 ch and join with a sl st to form a loop
Round 1: sc around =24 sts
Round 2: working in BLO, 6 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 6 sc =
26 sts

Right leg [note: We will be splitting the 26 sts into 2 leg holes, with 13 sts for each leg.]
Round 1: 13 sc, 2 ch [note: join to 1st sc] = 13 sts
Round 2: 13 sc, and sc on each of the 2 ch = 15 sts
Round 3: sc around = 15 sts
Round 4: 13 sc, dec, = 14 sts
Round 5: sc around = 14 sts
Round 6: 9 sc, 3 ch, sk 3 sts, 2 sc = 14 sts
Round 7: sc around = 14 sts
[note: crochet 3 sc in the 3 ch space]
Round 8: 6 sc, dec, 6 sc = 13 sts
Round 9-12: sc around = 13 sts
Round 13: 8 sc, 3 ch, sk 3 sts, 2 sc = 13 sts
Round 14: sc around = 13 sts [note: crochet 3 sc in the 3 ch space]
Round 15: 5 sc, dec, 6 sc = 12 sts
Round 16: sc around, FO = 12 sts
Left leg [note: start in the stitch that is just beside the right leg]
Round 1: 13 sc, 2 sc [note: the 2 sc is made on the 2 ch from the right leg] = 13 sts
Round 2-3: sc around = 15 sts
Round 4: 13 sc, dec, = 14 sts
Round 5-7: sc around = 14 sts
Round 8: 2 sc, 4 ch, dec, 6 sc = 13 sts
Round 9: sc around = 13 sts [note: crochet 4 sc in the
4 ch space]
Round 10-14: sc around = 13 sts
Round 15: 5 sc, dec, 6 sc = 12 sts
Round 16: sc around, FO = 12 sts
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Blue Jumper Suit (Top)
Start by using stitch markers to mark out 12 stitches that are in the centre of the jumper.
We will be working in rows from here on.

Row 1: make a standing ch where the pink

marker is, sc in the same st and sc
across, =12 sts
Make 1 ch and turn.
[note: refer to IMAGE 1]

Row 2: dec, 8 sc, dec =10 sts

Make 1 ch and turn.

Row 3: dec, 6 sc, dec = 8 sts

Make 1 ch and turn.

Row 4: dec, 4 sc, dec =6 sts

Make 1 ch and turn.

Row 5: sc across =6 sts

Make 1 ch and turn.

Row 6: sc across =6 sts

Make 1 ch and turn.

Row 7: sl st across from point A to point B =

6 sts and sc along the edge all around
the top portion of the jumper until you
reach back on the other side of point
A ~ approx. 6 sts down the edge, 12
sts at the back, 6 sts up the edge
= 24 sts [note: refer to IMAGE 2]

Row 8: Make 20 chains.

[note: refer to IMAGE 3]
Sl st into the st beside the 6 centre

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 sts at the back of the jumper.
[note: refer to IMAGE 4. The yellow
dots denotes the 6 centre sts. Ensure
that the strap is criss-cross]

Make 6 sl st across and 20 ch.

[note: refer to IMAGE 5]

Join the 20 ch to point B with a sl st

[note: refer to IMAGE 6]

♥ You may use embroidery thread to sew your initials on the jumper.

Shoes (make 2)
Using yarn in yellow colour and 2.5mm hook,
Starting at the sole, Ch 7,
Round 1: sc in the 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, ( sc, 4 hdc, sc ) in last ch, working on the
other side of the chain, 4 sc, 3 sc in last st, FO = 18
Using yarn in white colour
Round 2: working in BLO, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec = 15 sts
Round 3: 4 sc, 3 dec, 5 sc, FO= 12 sts
Using yarn in dark blue colour, sew a “ = ” on the front of the shoe to resemble shoelaces.

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Hair Wig
[IMPORTANT NOTE: Use a crochet hook which is 1mm larger than the hook used for body.
Also you have to intentionally crochet loosely. Try to ensure that you are still able to
straighten the strands and you are likely on the right track. Tip: if your strands of hair are
starting to curl up into a ball, you are probably crocheting too tightly. This is a very crucial step
in the hair wig. If you crochet too tightly, it will not fit the head and the fringe will look too
sparse.]

Using yarn in brown colour and 3.5mm hook,

Start by making 20 ch. Do not join with a sl st to form a loop. (This is the main chain “MC”)
We will be working in each of the individual ch of the main chain to create “strands of hair”

MC no. 20: 10 ch, sl st in 2nd ch from the hook, 8 sc working back down to the “MC”, sl st
in the 19th chain of the MC
MC no. 19-16: 10 ch, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook, 8 sc working back down to the “MC”, sl st
in the nxt ch of the MC

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MC no. 15: 15 ch, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook, 13 sc working back down to the “MC”, sl st
in the nxt ch of the MC
MC no. 14-3: 27 ch, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook, 25 sc working back down to the “MC”, sl st
in the nxt ch of the MC
MC no. 2: 15 ch, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook, 8 sc working back down to the “MC”, sl st
in the last ch of the MC

Using a yarn needle, thread a piece of same coloured yarn from the start of the main chain to
the end. This is similar to how you would seal the hole at the top of the head. Tie both ends
and pull tight to completely close up the hole of the hair wig.

Secure each strand of hair in its appropriate position on the head using pins. Slowly remove
one strand at a time to apply adhesive and pin it back down to dry. There are 19 strands of
hair, of which, the shortest 5 strands are the fringe. If you wish to tie pig tails, there will be 6
strands on each side. [optional: you may use a hair straightener to lightly iron the hair straight.
However, please proceed with caution as some yarns may burn easily]

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Hat [NOTE: Use a crochet hook which is 1mm larger than the hook used for body
Using yarn in dark blue colour and 3.5mm hook,
Round 1: 10 dc in MR, FO = 10 sts

Using yarn in light blue colour, insert hook into the space between 2 dc sts
[note: do not insert hook into the st itself]
Round 2: * ( 2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc ) 2 ch, sk 2 dc *
repeat the pattern from * to * 5 times around and join with sl st

Using yarn in yellow colour, insert hook into the ch 1 space between the 2 pairs of dc
[note: do not insert hook into the st itself]
Round 3: * ( sc, 2 ch, sk 2 dc, [note: insert hook into the space between the skipped 2
dc of round 2] 2 dc, 2 ch ) *
repeat the pattern from * to * 5 times around and join with sl st
Round 4: sc into each st, and 2 sc into each of the 2 ch space around = 35 sts
Round 5-6: sc into each st around, FO = 35 sts

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Using yarn in dark blue colour
Round 7: sc into each st around = 35 sts
Round 8: working in the FLO, ( sc, inc ) x 17, sc = 52 sts
Round 9: 52 reverse sc [note: also known as Crab Stitch] around = 52 sts

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Reverse Single Crochet [aka Crab Stitch]
Source: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-a-reverse-single-crochet-stitch.html

1 Insert the hook, from front to back, in the next stitch to the right. Be
sure to have the right side of your work facing you.

2 Yarn over (yo) and draw the yarn through the stitch. This step is similar
to how you work a regular single crochet — only backwards.

3 Yarn over and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook. One
reverse single crochet is complete.

4 Repeat the preceding steps in each stitch across the row. This image
shows several completed reverse single crochet stitches.

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♥ Here is Yun Shu by her original designer, HJ-Handmade.

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writing, re-selling, distributing, or copying the pattern itself is prohibited. Thank you for your
understanding and cooperation.
You can find us at:

www.instagram.com/crochetwawa
[do tag us when you post your finished doll #crochetwawa and you might be
selected as our next tester ]

www.facebook.com/CrochetWawa

www.ravelry.com/designers/crochetwawa

www.crochetwawa.bigcartel.com

www.crochetwawa.tumblr.com

Crochetchinadoll@gmail.com

www.etsy.com/people/crochetchinadoll

www.craftsy.com/user/7922508/
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