SOUTHEAST ASIA JUNE 2019

BORACAY
IS BACK

A REST IN THREE NEW TWO-WHEELING SINGAPORE S$7.90 / HONG KONG HK$43

THAILAND THB175 / INDONESIA IDR50,000

RURAL JAPAN STOPS IN VIETNAM CAMBODIA

MALAYSIA MYR18 / VIETNAM VND85,000
MACAU MOP44 / PHILIPPINES PHP240
BURMA MMK35 / CAMBODIA KHR22,000
BRUNEI BND7.90 / LAOS LAK52,000
 Thrills don’t
stop in Riau
Islands

Stretching from east of

Sumatra, past Singapore and
northeast into the South China
Sea towards Borneo, the Riau
Islands are a sprawling
Indonesian province full of
natural beauty just waiting to
be enjoyed. Sail, ferry or fly into
this lovely archipelago for one
of the many exciting annual
events being hosted in
Anambas, Bintan and Batam
this month.
 ADVERTORIAL

1
SAIL ANAMBAS
TO NATUNA
Between Borneo and the
Bay of Malaysia lie the
Anambas and the Natuna
1slands faKinO the oXen sea and o‫ٺ‬erinO
fantastic blue and green panoramas.
The Anambas are globally recognized
for some of the most amazing dive spots,
with colorful underwater life, and rows
of coconut trees protecting soft white-
sand beaches. Join the international
regattas that begin in New Zealand,
enter Indonesia through North Maluku
Regency, and stop at these northerly
archipelagos. You’ll be entertained with
regional art performances while dining, your visit is hassle-free. The soundtrack
enjoy diving and snorkeling at Penjalin of dulcet jazz over ocean waves is sure to
Island, tour Tarempa City, and be inspire. Bintan, June 22–23.

3
introduced to the Anambas’ cuisine and
Whether you are an avid sailor
handicrafts. Nantua, June 6–12. SSG

2
JAZZ ON THE
BEACH
Pristine Lagoi Beach
stretches for 3.5 kilometers
in the heart of Bintan
Resorts. To draw fresh faces, bring
culture and creativity to the island, and
up the luxury quotient, a jazz festival is
held on exclusive Lagoi Beach. Listen to
international artists play timeless music
in this perfect setting. And, while you’re
here, how about some adventure? Jet-ski,
kayak and snorkel, play volleyball or
build sandcastles. With baggage-drop
facilities, showers and changing rooms,
INTERNATIONAL
AMATEUR
CHAMPIONSHIP
Overlooking a picturesque
bay north of Batam, Tering Bay Golf &
Country Club is a coveted destination
for lovers of the links. Crafted by Greg
Norman, the challenging par 72 course
rolls across 167 hectares of undulating
hills and lush tropical greenery, dotted
by pristine lakes—which provide
centerpieces for many of the holes,
rewarding challenges for intrepid,
talented golfers. Pack your clubs for this
three-round international competition,
which is organized by the Society of
Singapore Golfers and included in the
World Amateur Golf Ranking (WAGR).
Batam, June 30–July 3.
who delights in the
expansiveness of the open seas,
a jazz aficionado excited to enjoy
mood music on one of
Indonesia’s most beloved
beaches, a talented golfer
looking for a challenge on a
world-renowned course amid an
amazing setting, or a cycler
wanting to go for a spin with
other likeminded athletes on a
picturesque isle, the Riau Islands
have an event for you. Come for
the occasion; stay for the
adventure and beauty above and
below the water.

4
NONGSA
CHALLENGE
Cycling can be leisurely or
athletic, challenging or
meditative. It can also be a
thrilling way to see lush Nongsa, with its
eye-catching waterways and wonderful
culture. Join this annual 182-kilometer
race, which has 175 meters of climbing
per 12 kilometer loop and is divided into
four competitive categories. Your ferry
ride from Singapore includes transport
for your bike, so gather your team of
road warriors and let’s hit the pavement!
Batam, June 30–July 3.

For more information, please visit : www.indonesia.travel

 FAREWELL BANGKOK
JOSÉ CARRERAS WEDNESDAY 23 OCTOBER 2019 (7.30pm)
THAILAND CULTURAL CENTRE

ONE PERFORMANCE ONLY

Tickets at Baht 12,000 / 9,000

FOR THE BEST SEATS
PURCHASE TICKETS IN ADVANCE
+662-2042370 Ext.101, +662-2042392
or email: sittikun@bangkokfestivals.com

Supported by the Embassy of Ireland

DAVID GIMÉNEZ CELINE BYRNE

GLOBALLY ACCLAIMED CONDUCTOR WORLD RENOWNED SOPRANO
 CONTENTS

June features

66
Return to Paradise
Boracay is back,
cleaner and greener
than ever. Stephanie
Zubiri returns to see if
this Philippine island
can preserve its soul
along with its shores.
Photographed by
Francisco Guerrero

76
Three for the History
Books New resorts in
remote places show
off Vietnam’s diverse
natural beauty while
always keeping sight
of its layered history
and culture. By Eloise
76 66 Basuki. Photographed
by Leigh Griffiths
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: L E I G H G R I F F I T H S ; F R A N C I S C O G U E R R E R O ; R I N N E A L L E N ; A M B R O I S E T É Z E N A S

88 96
88
In Their Own Time
A new generation of
oddball entrepreneurs
in France aims to keep
Languedoc’s eccentric
spirit alive. By Joshua
Levine. Photographed
by Ambroise Tézenas

96
Southern Pride,
Southern Promise
On a road trip, Kevin
West finds Alabama’s
residents reckoning
with its legacy and
defining what it means
to be Alabaman.
Photographed by
Rinne Allen

ON THE COVER
Catching golden-hour rays at
Sirena, in Shangri-La’s Boracay
Resort and Spa. Photographed by
Francisco Guerrero TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 5
CONTENTS
17 Reasons To Travel Now A cool
sunset spot in Nusa Lembongan;
a sleek boutique for Siem Reap;
and Hong Kong’s latest hub.
21 A House for All Seasons A new
address in Japan stirs creativity
with sustainable design and a
dose of daily calm.
26 Khmer Connection Cambodia’s
smoother roads inspire this
intrepid trip around Banlung, in
the charming northeast.
30 Welcome to Chinoy-town
Discover the fascinating blended
cultural identity of the Filipino-
Chinese on a walking tour of
Manila’s Chinatown.
36 By the Water’s Edge Bangkok’s
Chao Phraya River has a flash
new mall in a suburb with a long
history of Sino-Siamese culture.
36
6 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
38 Where the Wild Meets High
Style Pair your big-game safari
50 Shopping in Paris It’s time to
sightings with a side of serious
luxury at camps in Botswana.
40 Getting Hip to Anchorage
Alaska’s largest city has
developed a character unlike any
other: down-to-earth, welcoming
and ardently committed to
embracing its untamed side.
42 A Taste of the Baltics Forward-
thinking chefs and food
producers in Lithuania are
57 Mile High Club Here’s how to fly
turning their attention back
home—with delicious results.
46 A New Day for Dominica After
the devastation of Hurricane
Maria, this Caribbean island is in
recovery mode thanks to
community-minded hotels.
50
IN EVERY ISSUE
T+L Digital 8
Contributors 10
The Conversation 11
Editor’s Note 12
Deals 62
Wish You Were Here 106
Guide
bring home some of the French
capital’s legendary chic. From
the venerable grands magasins
and flea markets to the newest
purveyors of street style, our
experts will lead you to that
essential outfit or objet you
won’t find anywhere else.
Upgrade
in ultimate style: Private-jet
tours are taking well-heeled
travelers for the most luxurious
cross-cultural exchanges.
F R O M L E F T: C E D R I C A R N O L D ; C E L I N E C L A N E T; N O E D E W I T T; T O M F O W L K S
46 40
The Most Luxurious Hideaway
with a Breathtaking View

Silavadee embraces a natural elegance that comes with a stunning scenery.

Located on Laem Nan beach, the most beauteous, exclusive beach on Samui island.
Tucked away from the busy world yet only a short drive from it all. The perfect
combination of the magnificent land-sea and skyscape with our renowned,
high level of personal services. And that is what makes Silavadee special.

www.silavadeeresort.com
T+ L D I G I TA L

THIS MONTH ON TR AVEL ANDLEISUREASIA.COM
MAKE AN ECO-STOP
IN THE MERGUI
Largely uninhabited and
absurdly beautiful, these
untouched islands off the
southern coast of Burma have
new hotels with a green focus.
AUSTRALIA’S SECRET
SHORELINES
With more than 60,000
kilometers of coast, Australia
has plenty of beaches to
explore where you won’t have
to share the sand.
KUALA LUMPUR’S
NEW ER A
In the wake of political
change, the Malaysian capital
is also experiencing an uptick
in exceptional dining and
high-end stays.
+
LOOKOUT
These Philippine-
designed products are
what you need for your
next beach getaway; this
beach resort in China is a
lesson in luxury; Hong
Kong’s fine-dining
vegetarian scene offers
food for thought; the
latest travel deals
and much more.
travelandleisureasia.com

F R O M L E F T: S C O T T A . W O O D WA R D ; C O U R T E S Y O F H A L C Y O N H O U S E ; L E I G H G R I F F T H S

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TLEDITOR@
f MEDIATRANSASIA.COM

8 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM


1 2
Nate
Clark
W R I T ER A ND P H O TO GR A P HER
“Khmer Connection”
Page 26
— Page 76
“I’ve been to Cambodia seven
times in the last 10 years,”
1
says the journalist, based in
Pai, Thailand. “The last trip
was solo, on my motorbike.
While looking for a place to
tune up, I met a paraplegic
man who’s turned his repair
shop into a mechanic’s school
for underprivileged youth.
His selflessness humbled
me. The best meal was a
delicious pork noodle soup I
had roadside with an elderly
man who insisted I watch
muay Thai fights with him
and hold his infant grandson
on my lap. Motorcycle road
trips give time to think and
get to know myself. Riding is
2 like a meditation for me.”
Instagram: @nateclarkstreet.  Instagram: @leighgriffithslens.
3 4
Stephanie
Zubiri
W R I T ER
“Return to Paradise”
Page 66
— —
“I’ve been going to Boracay
regularly since the 1990s,”
says the Manila native who
was impressed by many of
the eco changes on the island,
including “no smoking and
drinking on the beach. While
3
I’ll miss noisy sundowners by
the shore, I saw how bad the
environment got, covered in
litter. I love the quiet of the
electric trikes and the ban on
of daybeds and crazy parties
on White Beach. You can
actually see the sand again.
Spend all day lounging by the
sea, only leaving for lunch at
Crust at The Lind and dinner
at Mosaic. Find time for Chi
Spa and check out if there’s a
party at Lazy Dog at night.”
Instagram: @stephaniezubiri.
10 4
CONTRIBUTORS
Leigh
Griffiths
P H O TO G R A P H ER
“Three for the History
Books”
—
“Despite it being the least
beautiful time of year in Sapa,
the mountaintop views were
incredible,” says Griffiths,
who traversed Vietnam. “Quy
Nhon felt like an escape—no
other tourists in sight. I loved
the Vietnamese martial arts
master at Anantara, which
shined. In Con Dao, hearing
the horrible history of the
prisons was hard. Contrasting
that to the beautiful island
and its happy people made for
a very humbling experience.
The assistant manager at
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F N AT E C L A R K ; C O U R T E S Y O F L E I G H G R I F F I T H S ; C O U R T E S Y O F S T E P H A N I E Z U B I R I ; C O U R T E S Y O F F R A N C I S C O G U E R R E R O
Poulo Condor recommended
we visit her family’s blue-crab
noodle soup shop in town. I
will be back one day for more.”
Francisco
Guerrero
P H O TO G R A P H ER
“Return to Paradise”
Page 66
“The most significant change
to Boracay upon its reopening
is the silence. We Filipinos
love music, and that’s a great
thing, but there came a point
where every restaurant and
bar had taken over the sand
and was blasting music all
day. Now that the scene has
been pushed back away from
the tree line, things are much
quieter and more relaxing.
Now, once again, nothing
beats White Beach at sunset,”
says the Manila-based
photographer, who also
suggests going farther off the
beaten track to the Linapacan
Islands in Palawan. “The place
is what all Philippine beaches
were 30 years ago.”
Instagram: @studioguerrero.
 T H E C O N V E R S AT I O N

One of the most difficult parts of visiting a new place is

often the simplest: talking. Basic requests can turn into
ridiculous games of charades; the act of buying a train
ticket can feel like trying to solve an algebraic equation
written by Rain Man. Of course, the tech world has been
homing in on this problem for years now, and a handful of
translation devices are now refined enough to be actually
useful. As charming as communication via hand gestures
can be, here is some of the new technology we’re excited
about to get the conversation really flowing.

IFLYTEK 2.0 SMART ELECTRONIC GOOGLE TRANSLATE & PIXEL

VOICE LANGUAGE TRANSLATOR
This one is for Chinese travelers or
visitors to the country; the device
directly translates 51 languages into
Mandarin, Cantonese and other
Chinese dialects, and vice versa. The
real bonus—it can do it offline, too.
iflytek.com; from US$428.
The Internet giant’s free camera translation
software has saved us when it comes to menus and
signs, but their Pixel Buds earphones go further—
interpreting your speech into 40 different languages
and connecting to any Android phone as a speaker.
store.google.com; from US$159.

WAVERLY LAB’S
AMBASSADOR
POCKETALK Famous for its Pilot
This palm-sized translation earbuds,
machine can the yet-to-be-released
translate 74 Ambassador wireless
languages and over-ear device will up
adapts to each the quality and allows
user, learning their multiple devices to
pronunciation to connect together, so
make translations groups can talk in
more accurate. different languages in
pocketalk.net; real time. waverlylabs.
from US$249. com; price not listed at
time of print.

#TLASIA IT TAKES A SPECIAL EYE TO STAND OUT WHILE BLENDING IN. HERE ARE SOME OF
OUR FAVORITE PORTRAITS WITH SHOW-STOPPING BACKDROPS.

Painted pillars at Jaipur’s Following the Pink Panther’s Colorful culture queens in Kuala Lumpur’s history can
ethereal Patrika Gate. trail to Shanghai. Singapore’s Little India. be found on the walls.
By @suitcaseandi. By @chubbychinesegirleats. By @miraslaval. By @dalasava.

SHARE AN INSTAGRAM PHOTO BY USING THE #TLASIA HASHTAG, AND IT MAY BE FEATURED IN AN UPCOMING ISSUE. FOLLOW @TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 11

EDITOR’S NOTE

Valencia’s tranquil
silk exchange,
La Lonja.

into a hotel room

AVE YOU EVER BOOKED FROM MY TRAVELS
and realized, almost immediately, that If there’s a room that’s
you do not want to leave? Even if travel grabbed my attention of late
is meant to remove us from our comfort and not let go, it’s the
zones, or surprise us in ways we never Transactions Hall at La Lonja
in Valencia. Having made an
imagined, some guestrooms simply hit every button. The same holds
all-too-brief stop there years
true with other spaces. Instead of a hotel room, you might turn a city ago, I knew I would return on
corner on a first-time visit or veer down a dirt path to an undiscovered a visit to Spain’s third city. I
beach, and the scene will steal away all your expectations. knew the light early on a
This month, features editor Eloise Basuki ventures around always- cloudy day would be perfect.
I knew the orange trees
popular Vietnam to uncover a trio of such spots (“Three for the History outside the soaring windows
Books,” page 76). In Quy Nhon, she falls under the spell of her villa, no would be weighed down with
doubt lured by a personal wine cellar and her own pool, but come fruit. And I knew the eight
lunch, convinces Anantara’s executive chef to teach her how to make stone columns spiraling to
the vaulted ceiling would
banh xeo, the savory crepes known to central Vietnam. Two other stops
still astonish me.
on the map, Sapa and Con Dao, offer up
similar memories of a place that stops
you in your tracks, so do read the piece.
I had my own such moment in Japan
(“A House for All Seasons,” page 21),
when I stayed at an out-of-the-way inn,
one that marries an architecturally
F R O M L E F T: I R FA N S A M A R T D E E ; C H R I S T O P H E R K U C WAY

marvelous indoors with the outside

surroundings. In that moment when
everything aligned as the architect
intended, I really did not want to leave.

@CKucway
chrisk@mediatransasia.com

12 J U N E 2 0 1 9 / T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Christopher Kucway
ART DIRECTOR Wannapha Nawayon
DEPUT Y EDITOR Jeninne Lee-St. John
FEATURES EDITOR Eloise Basuki
SENIOR DESIGNER Chotika Sopitarchasak
DIGITAL MEDIA EDITOR Veronica Inveen

REGUL AR CONTRIBUTORS / PHOTOGR APHERS

Cedric Arnold, Kit Yeng Chan, Marco Ferrarese,
Duncan Forgan, Jenny Hewett, Lauryn Ishak, Grace Ma, Morgan Ommer,
Aaron Joel Santos, Scott A. Woodward, Stephanie Zubiri

CHAIRMAN J.S. Uberoi

PRESIDENT Egasith Chotpakditrakul
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Rasina Uberoi-Bajaj

PUBLISHER Robert Fernhout

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SALES DIRECTOR HONG KONG, MACAU, INDONESIA, PHILIPPINES Leigha Proctor
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TR AVEL+LEISURE (USA)
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Gifford
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, NEWS, LUXURY, ST YLE Meredith Long

MEREDITH PARTNERSHIPS, LICENSING & SYNDICATION

(syndication@meredith.com)
BUSINES S AFFAIRS DIRECTOR Tom Rowland
DIRECTOR, LICENSING OPER ATIONS Richard Schexnider
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jack Livings
E XECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CONTENT MANAGEMENT Paul Ordonez

MEREDITH
CHAIRMAN AND CEO Steve Lacy
PRESIDENT AND COO Tom Harty
CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER Alan Murray
E XECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENTS Brad Elders, Lauren Ezrol Klein

TR AVEL+LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA

VOL. 13, ISSUE 6
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 WORLD PREMIER IN BANGKOK
GRAND NEW PRODUCTION STARRING CHINA’S NATIONAL TREASURE LI YUGANG

by LI YUGANG
5 & 6 October 2019 (7.30 pm)

INTERNATIONAL AWARDS & HONORS

2018 National Art Lifetime Achievement Award
2017 Outstanding Asian Artist Award
2016 Lotus, the 11th Top Ten Best Album Award
2015 Gold Song Award/ Best Lyrics Award
 4VZ[0UÅ\LU[PHS(Y[7LYMVYTLY(^HYK

Tickets at Baht 4,500 / 3,500

FOR THE BEST SEATS
PURCHASE TICKETS IN ADVANCE
+662-2042370 Ext.101, +662-2042392
or email: sittikun@bangkokfestivals.com

THAILAND CULTURAL CENTRE

Free shuttle from MRT station (Thailand Cultural Centre)
Exit 1, during 5.30 - 7.00 pm
 REASONS TRAVEL NOW
JUNE 2019

TO
T+L’s monthly selection of trip-worthy places, experiences and events.

no.
1
A chic new beach bar and boutique
hotel on rustic Nusa Lembongan is
making waves with surfers.
C O U R T E S Y O F O H A N A’ S

The first beach lounge of its caliber on Bali’s sister

island of Nusa Lembongan, Ohana’s brings an
Sundowners unprecedented air of cool to one of Indonesia’s
and snacks at most laidback ocean escapes. >>
Ohana’s.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 17

R E A S O N S T O T R AV E L N O W
Reached via fast boat from Bali’s
southeast coast, Nusa Lembongan
has just opened up to tourism, but
the surf island is quickly becoming a
low-key alternative to buzzy Bali.
With a stunning seafront location
and infinity pool, white-linen
cabanas, a modern menu and private
pool villas, Ohana’s has an
unpretentious vibe that feels more
like your backyard than a club.
“We noticed a big gap in the
market,” says Australian-born
Mitchell Ansiewicz, owner and
managing director of Ohana’s, who
moved here with his wife, Ashleigh,
last year after more than a decade
spent traveling to Bali from the Gold
Coast. “Couples, families and surfers
were looking for somewhere a bit
more luxury... and people were
wanting something more than a
local warung to eat at,” he says.
“The concept is modern
Australian, though we’ve also
incorporated many of our favorite
Indonesian dishes and love using the
local seafood,” Ansiewicz says.
Crowd-pleasers so far include
chicken and shiitake lettuce cups;
coconut-crumbed king prawns; and
the 300-gram Australian Black
Angus steak served with
chimichurri and kimchi.
18 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Soak in the laid-
back vibe from the
beach or the pool.
Set in the heart of the main
village, in front of world-class surf Cocktails use
high-end spirits.
breaks Razors and Shipwrecks,
Ohana’s is an unassuming oasis
that’s in harmony with its relaxed
locale. While they host acoustic
sessions and DJs every Sunday and
Friday, Ohana’s is still on island
tempo. “Nusa Lembongan benefits
from its small size, which restricts
the traffic and development and
creates a unique mix of being rustic,
while still not being entirely off-the-
grid,” he says. Libations, however,
are refreshingly urbane: red-ginger
margaritas, coconut and pineapple
martinis, and a range of high-end
gins and whiskies. ohanas.co; mains
from Rp110,000; doubles from
Rp2,590,000. — JENNY HEWET T
2
F R O M TO P : C O U R T E S Y O F O H A N A’ S ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F T R E E L I N E U R B A N R E S O R T
no.
This art hotel brings a curated aesthetic
to Cambodia’s culture capital.
Siem Reap has long been a symbol of ancient Khmer design, but new
arrival to the city Treeline Urban Resort (treelinehotels.com; doubles
from US$175) offers guests a luxury portal into modern Cambodian art.
Founded by Hok Kang of Phnom Penh–based architects HKA & Partners,
the 48-key, artisan-focused property features more than 50 original
pieces by acclaimed local creators. Copper and hemp wall hangings by
emerging artist Thang Sothea embellish rooms, while bamboo and rattan
structures by sculptor Sopheap Pic stand out in the lobby. As well as four
dining areas and a rooftop infinity pool, the riverside boutique houses a
public open-air gallery, and you can catch their retrospective on prolific
Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann until June 30. – ELOISE BASUKI
 Sanctuary for the Senses

Acquaint yourself with the fascinating culture, rich heritage and traditions of spiritual Bali at one of The 58
Most Luxurious Hotel in The World by Forbes Travel Guide. Poised majestically on a cliff top near the Uluwatu
temple, the 71 exclusive all-pool villa resort is an exemplary illustration of the distinctive Banyan Tree
experience and famed Balinese hospitality.

From its lofty perch on Bali’s southernmost cliff, Ju-Ma-Na presents fine dining with a
dramatic view. Delicious seafood artfully prepared by talented chefs will take your taste buds
on a culinary journey. Indulge in signature dishes steeped in Indonesia’s rich culinary
traditions and international favorites at Bambu and variety of Nouvelle Balinese cuisine at
Tamarind Restaurant.
R E A S O N S T O T R AV E L N O W

no.
3
A revitalized cotton
mill in Hong Kong
turns textiles into
tech-styles. Hyper-personalized watchmaker
EONIQ uses mechanical
movements and individual
Straddling the border of Kowloon signatures to make customized
and the New Territories, Tsuen Wan watches. eoniq.co.
may be beyond the main thrust of
most tourist sites, but new arts and
heritage project The Mills (themills.
com.hk) has transformed the Centre for Heritage, Arts and Textiles (CHAT) has a
neighborhood’s old textile factories rotation of exhibitions, focusing on both heritage objects
into a center of boutique shops, and contemporary Asian artwork. Its programs include
dining spots and exhibition spaces interactive “co-learning” workshops, performances
worth a detour. The project gives a and talks. mill6chat.org.
platform to Hong Kong brands that
connect with the energy of the city:
concrete home wares from Shabibi
Sheep Workshop (shabibisheep
workshop.com) converts the
materials of clinical urbanization
into art, and celebrated local Alt: A New
businesses like burger diner Honbo Cycle uses an
(facebook.com/honbo.hk) and innovative
premium roaster Coco Espresso garment
(cocobarista.com) have new outposts. recycling
system that
The Mills doesn’t forget where it
weaves new
came from, either, which, in Hong Koko Coffee
clothes out of
Kong, where the habit is to erase the old pieces in
Roasters is a new
past to build the future, is utterly outpost from
just four hours.
refreshing. While innovation and much loved local
GF, 5–7;
tech-startups are at the forefront of brand Coco
themills.
Espresso. Beans
the project, the precinct pays tribute com.hk.
are sent directly
to the textile industries that laid the from farms
foundations for the fashion around the world
economies and technologies of today: and roasted on
staircases with peeling paint, once site. fb.com/
used daily by cotton mill workers, kokoroasters.
have been preserved; commissioned
wall murals from six Hong Kong
Youth Arts Foundation artists
present impressions of the past; and
original signage brings memories to
life. The stops listed here make for
C O U RT ESY O F T H E M I L LS ( 5 )

an illuminating afternoon—though
if you’re an art aficionado or history
Like its sister bar in Mongkok, The Ale Project
buff, perhaps set aside a little more offers some of Hong Kong’s finest beer brands on
time to take in the details and visit tap including Young Master and Heroes Beer Co.
all the exhibitions, which change fb.com/thealeproject.
each quarter. — REBECCA CAIRNS

20 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 DESIGN

A House for
All Seasons
On the way to Nagano and far from the
metropolis that is Tokyo, there’s a new
address that’s meant to stir your creative
juices. At the very least, it will calm your
day. STORY AND PHOTOGR APHS BY
CHRISTOPHER KUCWAY

The welcoming
Library at
Shishi-Iwa House.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 21

DESIGN
FROM LEFT: Architect
Shuntaro Sano, who
oversaw the project;
the outdoor deck
awaits springtime.
THERE ARE FEW THINGS more
Japanese than a long, hot soak in a
bath, especially one with a forest
view. Entering my modest
guestroom at Shishi-Iwa House, that
became my immediate goal on a
two-day stay. The snaking, 10-room
design gem about 80 minutes by
Shinkansen from Tokyo Station is a
place full of unforgettable angles—
on a blueprint, there are 38 grid lines
along the length of the house—and
that view of a forest just starting to
bud its way into the Japanese spring
was one. It’s a long way from Ginza.
My room was compact by most
standards, and while I had arrived
armed with the idea of not spending
too much time there—I would make
an exception for the bath—the
intriguing wood design more than
overcomes any space limitations.
Shishi-Iwa has three sections of
22 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
three or four guest rooms, and I was
staying in one of two rooms a floor
above a common area with a
compact kitchen and living room.
From here, there is access to the
curvilinear exterior of the building
aside a small forest, and in the
opposing direction to an area
accessible from every part of the
house. It’s this sweep of a room
where guests are expected to mingle
around the fireplace or the one-piece
wood table, facing retractable glass
walls with views out to a small
Japanese forest.
Yet, these are merely the nuts and
bolts, and tell little of the thought
that has gone into Shishi-Iwa
House’s design by innovative
architect Shigeru Ban.
FIVE YEARS AGO,  Huy Hoang—a
well-traveled investment banker by
day, a bookish art and food junkie by
night—came up with the idea of an
architectural retreat in Japan. In his
mind’s eye, he had the art and
hospitality ideals down, but needed
someone strong on the development
side of things. Enter engineering
partner Philip Wang. Together, their
plan was to involve someone who
could bring a strong design element
to their idea; a blueprint for
something rarely seen before. With a
Pritzker Prize under his belt and
bringing Japanese sensibility to the
project, Shigeru Ban took on the
overall design.
Wait, stop right there. Before you
get the wrong idea, Shishi-Iwa is not
a ryokan, in fact, it’s not meant to be
Japanese at all aside from the fact
that it is located in the country. Nor
is it meant to be a hotel in the usual
sense of the word. More than half of
 its space consists of public areas for
guests to mingle, explains Hoang,
which is definitely not something
that any hotel moneyman who,
guided solely in terms of revenue per
available room, would ever consider.
Instead, the idea is for guests to
experience a house created by a top
architect, an address available to
everyone; high design, yes, but also
relatable. And it’s not a template for
other projects even though, Hoang
hints, there are some in the works.
Instead, the design intends to have a
soothing effect, one meant to inspire
creativity. Simplicity is key but
everything is in place for a reason.
The linens and amenities are chosen
both because they fit the narrative
and they’re some of the best from
around the world. Says Hoang: “You
have to design something that is
iconic, something that is truly you.”
Looking back, Grant Suzuki, the
FROM TOP: Rooms director at Shigeru Ban Architects
dwell on simplicity
and comfort; as a who oversaw the project, smiles
whole, the house is when he thinks of the blank-slate
meant to blend beginnings, a job without a site, one
into the landscape; lacking in any plans—definitely not
yes, the Hinoki
a corporate undertaking. Nearing
wooden bath.
the end of 2015, with two options,
Ban recommended this location over
one deeper in the mountains outside
the resort town of Karuizawa. Now
that all is said and done, slightly off-
putting is that the front door pretty
much spills out onto a two-lane road.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 23

DESIGN
FROM TOP: Comfort in
cardboard tubes, a chair by
Shigeru Ban; nearby Mount
Asama; a splash of color.
24 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
THE CONNECT BETWEEN
INDOOR AND OUT,
THAT FLEXIBLE USE
OF SPACE, IS VERY MUCH
A JAPANESE IDEAL
Yet Hoang argues the landscape,
both natural and man-made,
counters that road, offering different
looks throughout the year.
With the location chosen, the next
step was to maneuver around the
setting, changing as little as
possible. That resulted in the
serpentine nature of the structure as
it winds its way around existing
trees. Less noticeable to the casual
eye is the undulating roof that starts
off at a sharp acute angle at the
entrance that slowly becomes less
pronounced along the length of the
house. Ban kept at the idea of
shrinking the building, making it sit
on the earth. Western and Japanese
cedar, humble building materials,
are used throughout to exude
warmth and blend into the natural
environment. Like an oversized
puzzle, prefab timber frames were
transported to the site and then
assembled, conserving as much of
the natural foliage as possible. Now,
the evergreens, cherry trees and
Japanese maples number more than
250—a palette of a small forest that
changes with the seasons.
On arrival, guests enter the
Library, which acts as the reception
area—remember, this is a house not
a hotel—a high-ceiling room lined
with books along a second-level
walkway, and with a hidden wet bar
on ground level stocked with local
craft wine, whisky, sake and beer.
From there to the guestrooms, it’s
out a side door for a winding stroll
along a heated sidewalk.
Rooms are designed to give a
sense of relaxation and restore
energy, so the initial guest list
consists of creative types but it’s
easy to see the appeal extends to
anyone looking to recharge. My
room has a beyond-comfortable
queen-sized bed; and a writing desk,
compact outdoor deck for two and
that bath, each with a tree-lined
view. The only splash of color is a

vibrant rug stitched together from
old Iranian saddlebags. I’m
surprised to see exposed nails in my
room. Suzuki explains: “It shows the
true nature of the structure, there
are no additional surfaces.”
Over Ban’s initial sketches,
Suzuki takes me through the design
process: “The hotel he wanted to
create is supposed to feel like a
cottage, somewhere guests can
interact with each other.” As much
as I love working at the desk in my
room, the overall design does propel
me to the Grand Room and, once the
spring rain ends, outside. Every
corner of the house is
comfortable—I find myself testing
chairs and sofas to prove the point.
In an architectural mindset,
Shishi-Iwa House is divided into a
hierarchy of spaces. Each has its
own level of privacy, from individual
rooms all the way to the outdoors.
“At any given moment, this could be
an outdoor space,” Suzuki tells me.
The connect between indoor and out,
that flexible use of space, is very
much a Japanese ideal. Each of the
three living rooms flow into the
common Grand Room, which in turn
can open up to an expansive outdoor
deck as can the Library next to it—
connecting humans with both
nature and the architecture. The
public areas are meant to be just
that; spaces where guests can mingle
FROM TOP: Reading
material in the
Grand Room; a fix
at Karuizawa
Coffee Co. in town.
with each other and take in the
design of the building.
Even views out the long narrow
windows aren’t meant as a peek into
the outdoors; it’s more that the
scenes on either side of the walls are
merging into one. A short hike away
is Sengataki Falls yet, from indoors,
the greenery often looks like art.
There’s plenty of original artwork
chosen by Hoang, including a vivid
acrylic by Günther Förg in the
Library, a Hiroshi Sugimoto print in
the Grand Room and several works
in oil by Masaka Yamada. If these
names don’t register, they will by the
time you check out.
Ban was responsible for the
interior design, which explains the
presence of his own chairs made
from cardboard tubes—surprisingly
comfortable to sit on for any length
of time—alongside several
armchairs that are the creation of
Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. The
towels and robes are by Ploh, and
bathroom amenities are
biodegradable products from
Germany’s Stop The Water While
Using Me!
Central to the Grand Room is a
fireplace, perfect for an area meant
to gather minds. There’s also a
catering kitchen just off to one
side—local roasts from Karuizawa
Coffee Co. are always available—
where guest chefs prepare pre-
planned meals. My first night, we
ventured into town, to Musaian
Ikeda for a French-Japanese meal
that included a wonderful pâté and
some Japanese root vegetables; the
following evening, the husband-and-
wife team from MoriQ put together a
dinner to linger over at Shishi-Iwa
using local, seasonal ingredients.
This was more of a traditional
Japanese meal, including local
Wagyu with organic vegetables, and
red snapper in a cherry blossom
broth that tinged the dish pink and
gave it the aroma of a rainy spring
day. With all that in mind, I was
thinking of another visit. Next time,
I’m requesting the room at the end of
the building, the one with the
custom-made Hinoki wooden bath
that stares into the forest.
shishiiwahouse.jp; Karuizawa, Japan;
doubles from ¥40,000.
R OA D T R I P
Khmer
Connection
Newly paved roads in Cambodia’s northeast make exploring
via motorbike easier than ever. An intrepid solo trip around
Banlung leads to natural discoveries and tasty local eateries
and, best of all, that warm Khmer hospitality.
STORY AND PHOTOGR APHS BY NATE CL ARK
IT’S ONLY 10 A.M. but I’ve already arrived at
today’s destination: the tiny village of Sra Em in
northern Cambodia, just 30 kilometers from
the Thai border. Sra Em is known mostly for its
11th-century Preah Vihear temple complex, a
massive, sloping series of Angkor-style temples
built to resemble the mythical Mount Meru—
home to the Hindu gods and center of the
spiritual universe. For me it’s just a pit stop. I’m
riding much further east, to the rarely visited
city of Banlung in Ratanakiri Province—
Cambodia’s real life Heart of Darkness.
Today’s 200-kilometer ride from Siem Reap
on my rented 110cc Kawasaki motorbike was a
straight shot, almost too easy, and now I’m
26 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
ahead of schedule. I won’t go to the temple until
at least 4 p.m., when the light is best for
photography. I hit the hotel pool but I can’t
relax. All I can think about is riding. I head to
my room to grab helmet and keys and soon I’m
back in the green countryside, waving at monks
and looking out for wild elephants.
Ten years ago, locals jokingly referred to
Cambodia’s highway system as “The Dancing
Way,” because the uneven grades and deep
potholes forced you to “dance” for the entire
journey. Once a seven-hour mission on terrain
resembling a dry riverbed, the bus-ride from
the Thai border to Siem Reap is now just a
painless three-hour run thanks to a massive
international effort to improve the country’s
roads in the mid-2000s. Since then, Cambodia’s
highway system has made a quantum leap
forward, especially in less-traveled regions like
Ratanakiri. Perfect for a motorcycle trip.
A year ago, I passed through Banlung on my
way to Cambodia’s southern beaches but only
stayed a night—something I always regretted
after experiencing the roads and landscapes.
When a three-week window opened up in my
schedule in January, I rented a motorbike and
headed east again, this time with no itinerary.
THE NEX T DAY, after a glorious morning ride
from Sra Em, I enter Banlung for the second

time. I choose a room at Banlung Balcony, a
mostly wooden, lakeside affair with large, airy
spaces and a pool. From here, I’m in daytrip
heaven. I use it as a base for six days easily filled
by riding out to villages, hiking to all five
nearby waterfalls and diving into the crystal
clear waters of one of Asia’s best swimming
holes: the sacred Yeak Lom, a perfectly circular
crater lake formed 4,000 years ago by a volcanic
eruption. Its fairytale beauty is mind-boggling. CLOCKWISE FROM
The Khmer Loeu, eastern Cambodia’s FAR LEFT: Hitting
the road in
indigenous peoples, consider the lake home to
Cambodia’s
enormous spiritual beings who protect the land. northeast;
The completion of the eastern road to fish amok in
Banlung resulted in a massive jolt to the local Mondulkiri, just
economy. No longer dependent on cross-border south of Banlung;
the Preah Vihear
imports from nearby Laos or Vietnam, the city temple near Sra
of 20,000 residents now enjoys its own thriving Em; peak hour in
downtown core featuring a modern, air- Banlung; a new
conditioned supermarket, trendy cafés, high- addition to the Wat
Roka Kandal
quality clothing shops and even a popular
complex.
nightclub where Banlung’s youth rock out to
high-decibel Khmer pop.
Banlung’s up-and-coming resort and
restaurant scene centers on the shores of
picturesque Kan Seng Lake, just a 10-minute
walk from town. At night, travelers gather here
to exchange stories, sip ice-cold Angkor beers
and devour curried amok on one of the breezy
lakeside patios. I spend most of my evenings on
the wooden veranda of Banlung Balcony,
chatting with the gregarious French chef-
owner Franck Burlet as he prepares the
handmade, stone-oven pizzas that have made
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 27
R OA D T R I P
him famous among Banlung’s small
community of expats.
After so many days spent riding in and out
of Banlung on my motorcycle, I fill my last in
town napping by the hotel pool. It feels strange,
just letting the bike sit in the parking lot on
such a fine afternoon. After only a week back in
the saddle, I already miss riding. I think I’m
starting to understand the way cowboys feel
about horses. I’m looking forward to tomorrow.
NEARBY KR ATIE IS a nature lover’s paradise.
Most travelers come here to paddle the Mekong
in kayaks, cycle the rural trails of nearby Koh
Trong Island, or to catch a glimpse of the
endangered Mekong Irrawaddy Dolphin. From
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT: Banlung's Banlung, the last 30 kilometers of the journey
Kachanh waterfall to Kratie is sublime—riding on the riverbanks
is a 10-minute ride through tiny Muslim fishing villages where life
from the city; a has remained unchanged for decades.
room at Yeak Lom
Hotel & Spa; diving
I ride south along Kratie’s stunning
into the Yeak Lom riverfront promenade. Eventually the concrete
crater lake. gives way to the red dirt lanes of the Roka
s s e s o f h o m em a d e
Soon gla s e d a r ou n d , an d
a s
wh i s k y a r e p w i t h f i s h a n d r i c e .
d
a p l a t e h e a p e n o w h o s pi t a l i t y
k
Cam bodi an s
28 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Kandal fishing community—truly a place from
another time. Outside the village’s modest
temple, the 200-year-old Wat Roka Kandal, a
family invites me to their stilted house on the
river’s edge. As I approach the small cluster of
wooden residences, life begins to slow down.
Small children play games under the shade of
banana trees while shirtless fishermen prepare
their nets for tomorrow’s catch. One of Kratie’s
legendary sunsets is in its early stages. Soon,
glasses of homemade whisky are passed
around, and a paper plate heaped with delicious
fish and rice is placed in front of me. I’m
overwhelmed. Cambodians know hospitality.
I wonder, if the situation were reversed, and
a strange-looking foreigner suddenly appeared
on my doorstep in Canada, how long it would
take me to have dinner on the table?
THE FINAL 150-KILOMETER stretch back to Siem
Reap is the least scenic part of the journey, and
as the serene rural roads begin to widen it
dawns on me that my adventure is about to end.
 THAILAND LAOS
Cambodia, however, still has one more
experience to etch into memory: I see a hat fly
from a small motorbike seconds after it passes
me on the two-lane highway. The young rider Anlong Veng Sra Em
doesn’t stop or look back. I slow the Kawasaki
and pick up the frayed, blue baseball cap. I stuff
Steung
it into my coat and kick the bike into gear. Treng Banlung
I pass through a tiny village and recognize
the rider’s bright yellow jacket ahead. I follow
him down a red dirt lane toward the river and Siem Reap
pull up alongside him. I hold up the hat in
triumph. He’s startled at first, but when he sees Kratie
the cap he starts to laugh. Speaking some
English, he introduces himself as Leem. He
points to the hat and says, “My father.” Some Cambodia
locals approach and Leem says some words in
Khmer. Hilarity ensues. Within minutes the
whole village has surrounded us and I’m
VIETNAM
shaking hands like crazy. I beam with pride.
Mission successful. These unexpected
connections are what motorcycle riding is all
about. I fire up the bike one last time and begin
my final push toward the city.

THE DETAILS
VISA S
Nationals of ASEAN countries
do not need visas, nationals
of most others can obtain
a visa on arrival, but visit
evisa.gov.kh for information
specific to your nationality.
TOURS AND RENTAL S
Cambodia Motorbike
Adventures
(cambodiamotorbike
adventures.com; day-trips
from US$70) is a respected
Siem Reap outfit that tailors
tours for riders of all skill
levels. Veteran guide Paul
Hay even takes newbies on
day-trips to nearby temples
before the real adventure. If
you’re set on self-guiding,
Paul also offers a “phone
tour” where he stays on-call
24/7 to translate and answer
questions by telephone.
Known for their well-
maintained bikes and
friendly customer service,
Siem Reap Scooter Rental
(siemreapscooterrental.com;
small motorbikes from
US$10 per day) is the go-to
place for rentals in Siem
Reap. They rent by the day,
week or month.
If you’re leaving from Phnom
Penh, Sam Stretton and his
wife, Emily, from Cambodia
Motorcycle Adventures
(cambodiamotorcycle
adventures.com; tours from
US$95 per day), have been
guiding in Cambodia since
2011. For added comfort, a
support vehicle will drop
your bags at each hotel
before you arrive.
HOTEL S
In the village of Sra Em, the
modern Preah Vihear
Boutique Hotel (preahvihear
hotels.com; doubles from
US$45) serves as the
jumping off point for visitors
to the nearby Preah Vihear
temple complex. The hotel
features big rooms with
garden views, an outdoor
pool and a games room.
Ratanakiri-Boutique Hotel
(ratanakiri-boutiquehotel.
com; doubles from US$32) is
a French colonial property
with breezy, wood-furnished
rooms and balconies that
overlook Kan Seng Lake.
The tallest building in
Banlung, Yeak Lom Hotel
and Spa (yeakloamhotel.
com; doubles from US$60)
has a rooftop bar that boasts
the city’s best views. A short
walk from the restaurants at
Kan Seng Lake, it’s a great
base to organize your day
trips. Their impressive spa is
in a lush, tropical garden.
RESTAUR ANTS
Café Alee (855-89/473-767;
78A Chey Chomneas Village;
mains from US$4) features
coffees, fresh baked bread
and locally sourced
ingredients; this is the place
for breakfast in Banlung.
French chef Franck Burlet at
Banlung Balcony (fb.com/
banlungbalcony; mains from
US$4; doubles from US$10)
serves world-class pizzas;
his charming wife handles
the Khmer favorites. Come
early because this lakeside
favorite fills up after 7 p.m.
The city’s real Khmer
eateries are on the streets
surrounding the Banlung
Market. Tanam (855-97/557-
8555; mains from US$1.50),
just east of the market’s
main entrance, is popular for
breakfast, while Mey Mey
Café (fb.com/meymeycoffee
shop; mains from US$1.50) is
well known for its tasty
barbecue. Try lap Khmer, a
lime-marinated beef salad,
on most menus. — N.C.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 29

EXPLORE

Welcome to
Chinoy-town
A walk through Manila’s Chinatown reveals its blended cultural
identity and the legacies—places of worship, dishes to worship—of
the Chinese Filipinos. STORY AND PHOTOGR APHS BY LESTER V. LEDESMA

The basilica was

founded in 1596
for Christian
converts.

WITH ITS LOFT Y DOME and high

renaissance lines, the four-centuries-
old church of Binondo, the Minor
Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz, seems no
different from other Spanish colonial-
era churches in Manila. However, look
closely and its ethnic character
becomes apparent. “The façade is that
of an old church, and it’s got
everything you’d expect from such a
structure,” my guide Ivan Man Dy
points out. “But notice the bell tower’s
octagonal shape and red color—it’s
like a Chinese temple. Spend some
time in Binondo and you’ll realize it’s
a melting pot of Filipino, Chinese and
Spanish cultures.”
You can credit this fusion to a long
history of peaceful coexistence with
the natives. When the Spanish first
came to the Philippine islands in
1521, they found that xiang lei—
Fujianese merchants from the
southern Chinese coast—had been
living and trading here for centuries.
After Manila was made the capital of
the Spanish East Indies in 1571, the
sangleyes (as the Spaniards called
them) were Christianized and
relocated to the area of Binondo—
thus starting what could arguably be
the world’s oldest Chinatown. I am
spending the day exploring this
locale with Ivan, a prominent
Binondo’s landmark cultural and historical guide who has
church, Minor Basilica
taken academics, Nobel laureates
of St. Lorenzo Ruiz.
and celebrities (among them the late

30 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

Anthony Bourdain) around his
hometown in order to showcase its
mixed heritage.
THE HEART OF THE DISTRICT is Calle
Ongpin, a 900-meter-long stretch of
grit and concrete marked by Catholic
churches on both ends. Ivan leads me
into this street, passing by fruit stalls,
sundry shops and noodle parlors.
Some of these bear Chinese signage,
others a mix of Filipino and Spanish
names. Inside many stores, Taoist
deities and Catholic saints share little
altars bedecked with oranges and
incense. At one alley, a dragonhead
prop sticks out from the back of a
jeepney. Ivan points to these as
evidence of the long cultural exchange
between the Filipinos and the Chinese.
“As more sangleyes arrived into the
colony, they intermarried with the
locals and bore the mestizo (mixed-
race) bloodline of today’s Chinese
Filipinos,” he says. “Some Pinoys
assume we’re no different from
Mainland Chinese. But that’s just not
true—four centuries is long enough for
Chinoys [short for the slang demonyms
‘Chino’ and ‘Pinoy’] to assimilate and
Ongpin Street
comes alive during
Chinese New Year.
4 BINONDO’S HERITAGE
2
3
1
5 temple was rebuilt from a circa-
even add to the local culture. We’re
Filipinos of Chinese descent.”
Near the corner of Ongpin and
Pinpin Street we stop at the Santo
Cristo de Longos, a shrine that bears
an incense urn, a pair of divination
blocks, and a large metal cross that
sits where the Taoist deity should be.
Later on, we enter a rather
unremarkable-looking building with
an intriguing feature: its rooftop
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019
TRAIL
1. Minor Basilica of St.
Lorenzo Ruiz Dedicated to the
first Filipino saint (who happens
to be a Chinoy), this church
features a unique mix of
Spanish, Chinese and Filipino
design elements. Plaza Lorenzo
Ruiz; 63-2/242-4850.
2. Philippine Chinese Santiago
Church Hidden on the rooftop
of a low-rise building, this Taoist
1800s temple that stood on the
ground floor. The place hums
with activity at all times, but
more so during religious
festivals when kaoka—an
obscure form of ancient Chinese
opera—is performed. It’s a bit
hard to find, but the locals know
where it is. Kipuja Street.
3. Eng Bee Tin Deli Gerry
Chua’s family business was
floundering in the 1980s until
his reinvented hopia pastry
became a local favorite. The
place has since grown from a
modest bakery to the de facto
pit stop for foodies and visitors
in Chinatown. The ground floor
is where the take-home goodies
are, while the second floor
hosts a dim sum restaurant.
engbeetin.com; pastries from
P50.
4. Old Manila Walks Manila
cultural and historical
specialist Ivan Man Dy regularly
does walking tours and foodie
excursions to interesting spots
in and around the Philippine
capital. However, his Chinoy
roots and cultural advocacies
have all but cemented his name
to that of his Binondo
hometown. oldmanilawalks.
com; tours from P1,400.
5. New Toho Food Center
There’s nothing new about this
eating house, which has stood
on this spot since 1888.
Manila’s oldest restaurant isn’t
the swankiest place to dine, but
what it lacks in atmosphere it
makes up for with its classic
menu of Chinese Filipino
favorites. 422-424 Tomas Pinpin
St.; 63-2/242-0294; mains from
P100. — L.V.L.
31
EXPLORE
hosts a temple dedicated to Kuan
Kong, the Taoist god of literature and
war. Interestingly, the locals call him
Santiago, after the Spanish patron
Saint James the Greater. “Chinese are
pragmatic,” Ivan whispers while we
watch devotees light candles and
burn joss paper inside the temple
known as the Philippine Chinese
Santiago Church. “Taoism doesn’t
demand exclusivity so we don’t mind
mixing our gods. I was raised a
Catholic, but sometimes I pray here
just to stay in touch with my roots.”
BINONDO HAS THE FEEL of an inner-
city neighborhood, its gritty lanes host
an endless parade of pedestrians,
clip-clopping kalesas (horse-drawn
carriages) and automobiles. Its many
aging structures, however, tell of a
place that has been left behind by the
At Eng Bee Tin Deli, changing times. The Chinese mestizos
owner Gerry Chua’s remain a driving force in the
hopia are a hit. economy, but gone are the days when
Binondo was the premier business
district, the seat of Manila’s first stock
exchange and the base of the country’s
major banks. Compared to the
Eng Bee Tin Deli
also serves dim
sum at its
restaurant corner.
32 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Philippine capital’s modern-day CBD
(now located in the city of Makati,
some nine kilometers away),
commerce in Chinatown is now
mostly defined by small-scale, family-
run businesses.
The action may have moved
elsewhere, but Binondo holds its
place as the symbolic hometown of
1.35 million Filipinos of Chinese
descent. This I ponder as we sample a
uniquely Chinoy delicacy that sums
up this district’s character. The hong
peah began as a flaky malt-filled
pastry in Fujian province, but
evolved into the thicker and more
cakey hopia when it reached these
shores. Gerry Chua, the owner of Eng
Bee Tin Deli, took it further and
came up with variants that pack
ingredients like taro as well as
decidedly un-Chinese coconut and
coffee. He realized his culinary
reinvention was a hit when overseas
Chinoys started ordering it in droves.
“They said it reminded them of
home—of course they were referring
to the Philippines,” he says, adding:
“You can’t find this in China.”
A shrine to Taoist
god Kuan Kong at
the Philippine
Chinese Santiago
Church.
 The outdoor
spa pool at the
Okada Manila.
MANILA’S
SLEEKEST STAYS
Okada Manila
It’s never a dull
moment at this all-in-
one entertainment
complex overlooking
Manila Bay. Gaming
facilities and show
stages are just a wedge
of the pie. You can also
take your pick of 21
specialty eateries, from
Local guide Ivan refined Italian or
Man Dy at the robata-style Japanese
Minor Basilica of to 24-hour dim sum or
St. Lorenzo Ruiz. Filipino comfort food,
and dance ‘til you drop
at indoor beach and
night club Cove Manila,
It’s easy to find pockets of where a kinetic
nostalgia all over this heritage chandelier hovers over
district. At the New Toho Food private hot tubs and
luxury cabanas. All of
Center, chefs still whip up plates of the 993 rooms are
time-honored kikiam meat rolls decadently appointed,
(that’s the Hokkien ngoh hiang) and and underlined by
pork asado (char siew), the way they Okada’s unique blend of
Japanese-style
have been doing since 1888. This is
hospitality with Filipino
Manila’s oldest restaurant, and it charm. okadamanila.
seems only fitting that I end my day com; doubles from
of explorations here. The Philippine P14,000.
national hero Jose Rizal (himself a
Shangri-La at the Fort
Chinese mestizo) was said to have Soaring up from the
dined on this spot before his heart of buzzing
FA R R I G H T: C O U R T E S Y O F O K A D A M A N I L A
execution by the Spaniards in 1898. Bonafacio Global City
This is practically hallowed ground, (BGC), this gleaming
tower has become a
I tell myself as I join the crowd of
must-visit for more
locals tucking into their meals. The than just its guests.
ethnic Chinese have been around for Sure, the contemporary
so long that it’s easy to overlook their rooms and suites with
legacy in the Philippines. Good thing luxe linens, panoramic
views and Filipino
there’s a Chinatown—no, a design accents lure
Chinoytown—that helps make it both business and
easier to appreciate. leisure travelers, but
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019
locals, too, have been version of home.
drawn to its hip hubs. Astoria Plaza in the
Brisket and Wagyu Ortigas Business
burgers are a tease at District has spacious
Raging Bull, while suites with kitchens
Canton Road offers dim and floor-to-ceiling
sum in an art-filled views of the Pasig
haven. Our favorite is cityscape. The
speakeasy The Back Greenbelt property,
Room, all dark woods, meanwhile, is right in
green leathers and Makati’s CBD and oozes
locally infused tipples. character with creative
shangri-la.com; doubles murals in rooms and
from P10,000. the jewel-toned
Tableau dining space.
Grand Hyatt Manila astoriaplaza.com,
There’s no shortage of doubles from P5,500;
opulent spaces to lay astoriagreenbelt.com;
your head at this sky- doubles from P5,625.
high shiner in BGC. As
the tallest building in New World
the Philippines, the Makati Hotel
Grand Hyatt doesn't This central five-star
just flaunt vast wood- has luxury ingrained in
paneled rooms, its foundations: marble
decked-out meeting bathrooms, elegant
rooms, an outdoor pool furnishings and high
that’s also set up for ceilings make rooms
alfresco barbecues, feel lavish; four distinct
and the tranquil Illume dining spaces offer
Spa, but seven high-end options for every taste;
eateries to wine and and the Maharai Spa
dine. Of these, you’re can indulge weary
going to want to beeline muscles from a day’s
for the three-story grill, exploring. Though
lounge and whisky bar, there’s no need to
The Peak, from the wander far—the hotel is
60th to the 62nd floor. in the heart of Makati
hyatt.com; doubles and on the doorstep of
from P9,200. stylish shopping
districts Greenbelt and
Astoria Plaza & Glorietta Lifestyle.
Astoria Greenbelt Business travelers will
Offering modern be well looked after
retreats from Manila’s with secretarial
choked city streets, support, convenient
Astoria’s two boutique- workstations and fast
style properties in the Wi-Fi. manila.
Philippine capital win newworldhotels.com;
us over with rooms that doubles from P7,900.
feel like an elevated — ELOISE BASUKI
33
Lawry’s The
Prime Rib is
our Grade-A
favorite meal
When you crave American classics with
white-glove service, there’s only one
choice for discerning diners in Singapore

What makes Lawry’s The Prime Rib unique?

Lawry’s offers a grand dining experience. Start off
with table-side showmanship of their Famous
Original Spinning Bowl Salad. The main event is
Signature Roasted USDA Prime Rib of Beef also
carved table-side from gleaming silver carts.
Additionally, you’ll be delighted by the unparalleled
and personalised service.

House specialty
Lawry’s Signature Roasted USDA Prime Rib of
Beef: The Lawry’s Cut. At 285 grams, this is their
most popular cut of prime rib. Each standing roast
is aged for up to 28 days to heighten tenderness
and then slowly roasted on beds of rock salt, a
method that forces the juices inward and ensures
uniformly juicy and flavourful meat.

Three must-try dishes

1) Signature Roasted USDA Prime Rib of Beef.
At Lawry’s, you’ll find only the top 3 to 5% of all the
beef raised in the United States, which qualifies for
the highest USDA grade. The combination of cut
(the place within the steer from which it comes),
supreme quality and excellent proportion and
distribution of fat to muscle is what makes USDA
Prime-graded prime rib so highly prized. It is
meltingly tender and juicy, with a rich, uniquely
satisfying flavor.

2) Atlantic Lobster Tails.

Flown in from Nova Scotia, the broiled lobsters are
a fan favorite and you can get them for an
appetizer or a main course.

3) Traditional Lump Crab Cake.

This classic meal opener full of tender, flaky
chunks of crab meat, makes a great entree to your
prime rib feast.

Why choose Lawry’s?

Exceptional American cuisine with world-class
service in a grand, luxurious setting. It’s perfect for
celebrations, date nights and family gatherings.

What is the mood like?

Settle into the warm ambience under soft lighting,
with vibrant street views of Orchard Road through
4-metre-high floor-to-ceiling windows.

Little known fact

Lawry’s prime rib is neither grilled or charred, but
roasted and served with beef jus. It’s succulent
carnivorous perfection of the highest quality.

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receive up to 50% off their total food bill at Lawry’s
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Visit amex.co/platg or call

6396 8838 to apply.

Brought to you by
ON THE MAP

By the Water’s Edge

A flashy new mall has lured more visitors over to the Thonburi
side of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya river than ever before, but its
Khlong San neighborhood has long been a local hub for
Sino-Siamese eats and a lively social scene.
BY ELOISE BASUKI. PHOTOGR APHS BY CEDRIC ARNOLD

From the deck of the new

shopping center IconSiam,
overlooking Bangkok’s skyline
36 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM and the Chao Phraya river.
 2. KHLONG SAN PLAZA
MARKET For a more local
shopping experience, this market
area popular with students sells
clothing, shoes and accessories
for a steal. The food center has
plenty to amaze snap-happy
tourists, with stalls hawking
buckets of slithery eels, netted
frogs, edible bugs and pyramids of
tropical fruits. Thai desserts are
sought after here—try the rarely
found bua loy khai kem, naturally
colored glutinous rice balls served
3. LHONG 1919 The launch of this shopping,
in a salty-sweet hot coconut milk
dining and event space solidified the riverside
soup and topped with poached
as an up-and-coming precinct. The
eggs. Charoen Nakhon Road.
refurbished complex of old Sino-Siamese
warehouses retains its 19th-century charm
with ink-painting murals and the ancient Mazu
shrine, while modern restaurants, like
1. ICONSIAM
3 seafood-focused Rong Si and Plearnwan
Though many cross
4 Panich dessert shop, offer high-end dining
the river for the new
with water views. lhong1919.com.
mall’s international
debuts—the vast complex houses the
country’s first Apple store and
Takashimaya department store—we 6
come for the food. Sook Siam on the
bottom floor channels old-time
Thailand with local snacks like
coconut ice cream (above) served
floating market–style; Takashimaya’s 2
Hokkaido-inspired food court dishes
up Sapporo ramen at Baikhokhen;
and the “Alangkarn” dining zone has
17 restaurants among rice-paddy
installations. iconsiam.com. 1

6. WALDEN HOME CAFE Vintage furniture,

5. THE 14TH BARREL This craft-beer bar has a
range of international labels and newcomers, like
the Bangkok-based Lamzing's Sticky Mango pale
ale and the Devanom range using Nonthaburi hops.
(Note: no drafts.) There are bar snack staples—
waffle fries, ribs or buffalo wings—as well as
pastas and salads. fb.com/thefourteenbarrel;
drinks from Bt160; mains from Bt120.
dark-wood floorboards, exposed brick walls and a
shelf packed with books and magazines gives this
café a cozy vibe. Owner Dith Changsiricharoen
brews coffee from beans sourced from Chiang Mai,
and has a menu featuring smoked-salmon spaghetti
and banana crumble pancakes. fb.com/waldenhome
cafe; coffee from Bt65; mains from Bt120.

7. SAVE OUR SOULS Head

4. THA DIN DAENG MARKET here for a rotating menu of
Once a cargo port for ships heading German weizens, Thai IPAs
to Ayutthaya, Din Daeng Pier is still Belgian blonds and more on
an active hub. The cluster of food tap. Hard-to-find international
stalls have given the district the bottles and limited release
name “Little Chinatown.” It's a great cans also feature—look for
place to try Thai-Chinese dishes like Orpheus sour ale with apricot
rad na (gravy noodles), harn palo and Hong Kong’s Moonzen
(braised goose), khanom pia (bean range. A recent food
pastries) and Hainanese bokkia collaboration with Bangkok
(noodles, fruits and beans in an icy eatery Jim’s Burgers means
syrup). While there’s a market in the you won't go hungry. fb.com/
morning, most food stalls come sosbeerbkk; drinks from
alive at night. 163 Tha Din Daeng Rd. Bt220, mains from Bt150.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 37

D I S C O V E RY

FROM TOP: A
sundowner in the
bush at Belmond
Savute Elephant
Lodge; a lounge
area at the
property, which
underwent a total
renovation last
year. OPPOSITE:
Guests at the
lodge, located in
Botswana’s Chobe
National Park,
don’t need to leave
camp to enjoy first-
class animal
viewing.

Where the Wild Meets High Style

Not everyone wants to rough it when they go on safari. If you prefer your big-game sightings served up with
a side of serious luxury, Belmond’s Botswana camps offer the perfect solution. BY JANE BROUGHTON

I HAVE BEEN LUCK Y ENOUGH to go on dozens of safaris in

southern Africa, and on every trip there has been
something thrilling to see, something new to learn.
Singling out a favorite place seems unfair, but when
pushed, I always settle on Botswana. It’s a country that
delivers on so many fronts. Whether flooded or parched,
its landscapes teem with animals. Because of its
consistently low-impact, high-revenue approach to
tourism, the country’s wild spaces have remained
exclusive—the Okavango Delta, for instance, covers more
than 5,000 square kilometers, yet has only about 1,700
lodge beds. First-time visitors or anyone who prefers
high-level pampering will find few other destinations that
can offer these kinds of top-notch wildlife experiences in
such comfortable settings.
On my most recent trip, I checked out two properties
ALL IMAGES: MARK WILLIAMS/COURTESY OF BELMOND

on the three-camp circuit offered by Belmond, the storied

brand recently acquired by LVMH. I was curious to see
how the operator, known for its plush European travel
experiences, approaches the African wilderness, where
long-established players like andBeyond and Wilderness
Safaris have such a strong track record.
As with most high-end safaris, my trip kicked off with
a light-aircraft flight. Often, the journey from the regional
hub of Maun to the lodges of the Okavango Delta involves
bouncing around in a tiny three-seater. On this trip,
however, my fellow guests and I were shown to the pristine
leather interior of one of Mack Air’s new smooth-flying
13-seat planes.

38 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 Our first stop was Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, the
group’s flagship Botswana property, which was
refurbished three years ago. Set on a private island in a
lagoon and shaded by giant gnarled jackalberry trees, the
lodge has 12 elevated suites, each with a private plunge
pool. The design of the guest rooms, which have
traditional thatched roofs and are built from canvas and
wood (much of it recycled), feels elegant and fresh. In
keeping with Botswana’s strict environmental policies,
everything, from the hair dryers to the swimming-pool
pumps and the air-conditioning units, is solar-powered;
instead of plastic bottles of mineral water, guests are
given flasks to refill with water filtered by reverse osmosis.
(Mine made a great gym accessory when I got back home.)
I visited in November—early summer in Botswana. To
reflect the season, the food was light and Mediterranean-
inspired: chilled soups, crisp salads and grilled seafood
and steak, all paired with excellent South African wines
and served in scenic locations around the property. At
sunset, we drank cocktails made with specialty gins from
around the world in the stylish Fish-Eagle Bar, which
overlooks the lagoon.
The intricate web of waterways, channels and islands
that make up the Okavango Delta have made Botswana a
singular location for water-based game viewing. At Eagle
Island Lodge, boat cruises are a daily treat, as long as
water levels are high enough. Though it was summer, I
was still able to take guided trips in a mokoro, or dugout
canoe, right in front of the camp—something very few
properties in the delta can offer. The canoe’s position low
in the water revealed the hidden delights of the reedbeds:
jewel-bright birds, including kingfishers; iridescent
dragonflies darting to and fro; and thumb-size Angolan
reed frogs clinging tenaciously to the vegetation.
My second destination, Belmond Savute Elephant
Lodge, is located in northern Botswana’s Chobe National
Park, an elephant-dense area where National Geographic
has captured some of its best documentary footage. This
property recently had a total redesign, resulting in a look
characterized by bleached wood, lots of basketry, and
geometric African motifs. The camp’s 12 spacious tented
suites are built on raised timber decks and, with their
four-poster beds and indoor and outdoor showers, feel
like serene, air-conditioned sanctuaries.
Savute’s twice-daily game drives are all about tracking
big cats, wild dogs and rare species like roan and sable
antelopes. But for me the highlight was spending time
around the camp’s water hole, just below the pool deck,
where many meals are served. Here, a steady stream of
elephants, buffalo and antelope come to drink at all hours
of the day and night.
As I breakfasted there on my last morning, elephants
parading by, I came to understand the niche in the safari
market that Belmond fills. At the very least, the well-
heeled travelers who visit will return home with bragging
rights and a few hair-raising tales to tell at their next
dinner party; at best, the trip could ignite a passion for
conservation that might help to ensure the future of
Africa’s wild spaces.
belmond.com; doubles from US$2,140, all-inclusive, at all
Botswana lodges.
WA N D E R

Back in the 1970s, when John

McPhee wrote Coming into the
Country, his book about the 49th
state, he repeated what was by then
already an old saw: that Alaska
begins about 10 minutes outside of
town. If Anchorage is the city, Alaska
is the anti-city. But my wife and I
happen to like cities and wilderness.
Anchorage has wonderful versions
of both, surrounded as it is by the
mountainous Chugach State Park—
at more than 200,000 hectares,
the third-largest state park in the
United States.
Our hotel, the Lakefront

Getting Hip to Anchorage (millennium hotels.com;

doubles from US$87), about five
minutes from the airport, looks out on

Anchorage
Blessed by the wilderness at its doorstep, Alaska’s largest city
has developed a character unlike any other: down-to-earth,
welcoming and ardently committed to embracing its untamed
side. BY RYAN BR ADLEY. PHOTOGR APHS BY TOM FOWLKS
MY WIFE AND I told people we were going to
Alaska for five days. “On a cruise?” they asked.
“To see glaciers? Eagles? The wilderness?”
When we admitted that we would mostly be
staying in Anchorage, their faces fell. “That will
still be nice,” they said, but we sensed their pity.
FROM LEFT: The Lakefront
Anchorage hotel, on Lake
They assumed the city was the place you
Spenard; the Fire Island Rustic quickly passed through before entering the real
Bakeshop in South Anchorage. Alaskan frontier.
a kind of airport of its own. The small
lake it fronts is primarily used by
floatplanes, which I watched from the
hotel’s back patio, drinking my
morning coffee as they skimmed the
water and scuttered to a halt. En route
to the downtown area, we stopped in
at Spenard Roadhouse (spenard
roadhouse.com; mains from US$17),
a bright, airy, elevated diner, for beer-
battered fresh-caught halibut and a
taste of one of a dozen local beers.
Over the course of the weekend, I
learned that I was partial to beers by
Anchorage Brewing Company, but
there’s also Midnight Sun, 49th State,
Resolution, King Street and Broken
Tooth, among others. The options,
most fairly new, felt endless.

40 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 FROM LEFT: A sweet roll and
eggs Benedict at Snow City
Café; the craft-beer menu at
Anchorage Brewing Company.
The recent boom in breweries and gastropubs
is more charming than the city’s first boom, in
the 1970s. Back then, oil drove new arrivals and
spurred the development that caused
Anchorage’s sprawl. Now there are bike paths,
farmers’ markets, food trucks and revamped
spaces like the Bear Tooth Theatrepub
(beartooththeatre.net), a recently restored
movie hall that specializes in art-house films,
documentaries and live music, with a dine-
while-you-watch menu. If this all sounds like
Portland—or Nashville or Pittsburgh or San
Diego or nearly any other city that has
undergone urban renewal—it is and it isn’t.
Anchorage is undeniably Alaskan. It’s far away
from everything except all that encompassing
wilderness; what’s perceived as cool elsewhere is
viewed from a great distance here. The result is a
kind of authenticity that is hard to come by.
One morning, we went to the Fire Island
Rustic Bakeshop (fireislandbread.com), which
is run by Rachel Saul, who grew up in the city.
The Bakeshop now has three locations, but the
original, in South Addition, a quiet
neighborhood next to downtown, is a hub of
Anchorage life. As we picked out scones and
ancient-grain breads before hitting the trails,
Saul told us that the mayor was there. Everyone
seemed to know one another. At Saul’s
recommendation, we later tried the Snow City
Café (snowcitycafe.com; mains from US$11), for
eggs Benedict “Kodiak style”—with king crab
cakes. The café was a short distance NEXT STOPS
from the Crow’s Nest, a delightful After a few days in
1960s bar atop the Hotel Captain Anchorage, drive to one
Cook (captaincook.com; doubles from of these great Alaskan
US$195), where, at the end of the day, destinations.
we sipped martinis and took in the
hours to
sweep of the bay, the port and the
Seward
snowcapped Alaska Range.
Between meals, there were the hours to
trails to conquer. On our first Kenai
morning, in the foothills of the
Chugach on the Overlook Trail, we hours to
Homer
saw paragliders overhead and people
walking with bells around their hours to
wrists (“To scare away bears,” one of Denali
them explained). The next day, a bald National
eagle swooped down and grabbed a Park &
Preserve
salmon in Prince William Sound as
we walked among endless lupines
and roses. We drove up the fjordlike
Turnagain Arm, past mountain
goats, to a glacier, then stopped in the
ski town of Girdwood for a plate of
Middle Eastern meze at the eclectic
Jack Sprat (jacksprat.net; mains
from US$21). On our last day, we
found an explosion of peonies at the
Alaska Botanical Garden (alaskabg.
org). Did we see wilderness? Did we
see Alaska? Did we see a moose
hanging out in someone’s front yard?
Yes, yes and yes.
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 41
PL ACE SET TINGS

A Taste of the Baltics

In the years since the Cold War, Lithuania has been looking outward. Now, forward-

COURTESY OF DESIGN HOTELS; COURTESY OF AMANDUS. OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF GR AND HOTEL KEMPINSKI VILNIUS
thinking chefs and food producers in the capital of Vilnius are turning their attention

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F G R A N D H O T E L K E M P I N S K I V I L N I U S ; V. D O R O S Z /A L A M Y S T O C K P H O T O ;
back home—with delicious results. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A guest room at Grand Hotel Kempinski Vilnius; local cheeses at Halės Market, in Old Town; outside Hotel
Pacai; chef Deivydas Praspaliauskas prepping for the dinner crowd at Amandus. OPPOSITE: A colorful plate at Restaurant Telegrafas.

42 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

THE LONG WOODEN TABLE at Būsi
Trečias (busitrecias.lt; mains
€4–€14), a rustic, family-owned
brewpub in Vilnius, the capital of
Lithuania, was cluttered with bar
snacks: crisp fingers of fried rye
bread called kepta duona served with
a garlicky cheese sauce; žirniai su
spirgučiais, bowls of yellow split peas
topped with crumbled bacon. I
prodded owner Romualdas Dacius
for details about the lager we sipped,
but he just shrugged. “I only brew
beer that I like.” Then he regaled me
with ghost stories about the
18th-century building the pub is
housed in.
A few days later, at a tasting-menu
restaurant called Sweet Root
(sweetroot.lt; tasting menu €74), I bit
into the amuse-bouche, a pastry shell
the size of a quarter bulging with
green peas and crunchy specks of
duck, and was reminded of the peas
at Būsi Trečias. Both dishes are the fewer than 3 million has long beyond lackluster versions of stick-
work of a new generation of chefs, struggled to preserve its national to-your-ribs dishes like cepelinai, the
restaurateurs and artisans striving character. That includes its cuisine, meat-stuffed, sour-cream-
to crystallize and elevate Lithuania’s which is ill-defined except for a few smothered potato dumplings served
culinary identity. “We’re a little niche products. Lithuanians drink at touristy restaurants in Old Town.
country and don’t have a clear, beer and kvass, a fermented rye But now, at last, that’s changing.
unified food heritage,” explained drink, like water and toast every I was sitting at Telegrafas (fb.com/
Sigitas Žemaitis, who co-owns milestone and special occasion with telegrafas; mains €23–€63), the
Sweet Root with his fiancée, a glass of mead. Fresh dairy restaurant inside the Grand Hotel
Agnė Marcinauskaitė. products, like cottage cheese and Kempinski Vilnius (kempinski.com;
Situated on the Baltic Sea and sour cream, are staples, and doubles from €280), and gazing at the
surrounded, historically, by mushroom foraging rivals basketball Vilnius Cathedral when a white-
formidable powers—most notably as the national sport. Vilnius’s gloved waiter jolted me back to the
the Russian Empire—this country of cuisine wasn’t known for much present with a cheese platter. There
was a crumbly English-style cheddar
and a bold cow-milk cheese that
LATVIA
reminded me of something nutty and
Alpine—Gruyère, or maybe Comté?
Neither, it turned out. Telegrafas
sources all its cheese from the nearby
village of Dargužiai, which has
become something of a dairy capital
BALTIC SEA
thanks to the efforts of local farmers.
Later, at the neo-Gothic Halės Market
(halesturgaviete.lt), I wove past
vendors hawking spiky šakotis cakes
Kaliningrad oblast
(Russian Territory)
Vilnius and buckets heaving with fermented
BELARUS
garlic scapes, on my way to Roots
(fb.com/rootsvilnius), a bright and
POLAND modern cheese shop run by Redita
Vadeike and her mother, Lolita
Strumylienė. Strumylienė told me

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 43

PL ACE SET TINGS

how, after Lithuania joined the

European Union in 2004, local cheese
makers brought back new techniques
from sojourns in France and Italy.
She handed me a sliver of a raclette-
style cheese, fruity and pungent.
Chefs who left to work abroad
15 years ago have also returned to
Lithuania with fresh inspiration.
The seed for Sweet Root was planted
when the owners spent a year on
biodynamic farms in Italy. Chef
Deivydas Praspaliauskas, often
credited with bringing modern fine
dining to the country, cooked for
several years in Copenhagen. His
restaurant, Amandus (amandus.lt;
tasting menu €55), combines
Lithuanian go-tos—green-pea
purée, mustard seeds—with
ingredients from abroad, like sea
scallops and ponzu. At the new Hotel
Pacai (hotelpacai.com; doubles from
€180), Noma alum Matas Paulinas
helms the ambitious, 27-seat
Nineteen18 (hotelpacai.com; tasting
menu €89). Paulinas’s tasting menu,
true to his training, is composed
mainly of ingredients produced
within 100 kilometers of Vilnius,
resulting in dishes like grilled oyster
mushrooms in a syrupy sauce of coastal fishing village that supplies Girta Bitė (5 Gedimino Prospektas;
mint and elderberry capers. the restaurant, the first things 370/604-13363), a compact bar with
Upon entering the dining room at I noticed were the plump fillets on dramatic crystal chandeliers, treats
Šturmų Švyturys (sturmusvyturys.lt; display and the briny scent of fish mead with reverence. A bartender
mains €16–€24), named for the stock simmering on the stove. poured me a glassful from the tap; it

FROM TOP: Pilies Street, a main
thoroughfare in Old Town, Vilnius; a taste
of the sea, salted freshwater whitefish.
Česlovas Žemaitis, who owns the
restaurant with his wife, Asta,
explained how running their own
small port has allowed them to have
more exacting standards. The fish is
always wild, never flash-frozen, and
the selection depends on whatever
the sea offers that day—still unusual
claims for a seafood restaurant in
Lithuania. I ordered the fearsome-
looking lamprey, which tasted mild
when served with thinly sliced beets
in a tangy, vinegar-spiked marinade.
Buttery salmon found its ideal
companions in additions of lightly
pickled pumpkin and tart sea
buckthorn berries.
This palpable pride in all things
Lithuanian is leaving a mark on
the city’s lively nightlife scene.
F R O M T O P : G A B R I E L E D E S S Ì /A L A M Y S T O C K P H O T O ; S A N T I A G O U R Q U I J O / G E T T Y I M A G E
was sweet and crisp, like a honeyed
pilsner. The dim, vaguely steampunk
Cocktail Bar Alchemikas (fb.com/bar.
alchemikas) takes a different
approach: Žalgiris, a high-proof
distilled mead, is mixed with yellow
chartreuse and honey syrup for a
cocktail called, fittingly, Baltic
Courage. The bartender warned me
to drink slowly.
The dessert at Sweet Root is the
dish that has stayed with me the
most. For his final act, Žemaitis
presented me with a wafer-thin layer
of leaf-shaped meringue resting on
ice cream infused with porcini
mushrooms. I savored the earthy
sweetness, the contrast of crunchy
and creamy. It tasted like Lithuania
on a plate.

44 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

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EXPERIENCE

A New Day
for Dominica
With the help of community-minded hotels and visitors eager to give
back, this Caribbean island beloved by adventure seekers is making a
rapid recovery from Hurricane Maria. BY GINA DECAPRIO VERCESI
PHOTOGR APHS BY NOE DEWITT

Villas at Secret Bay,

a luxury resort on the
island of Dominica
with access to a
secluded beach.

46 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

DOMINICA IS A WILD PL ACE, but nothing in its
wilds can hurt you. No venomous snakes lurk
along the jungle trails. No deadly insects skitter
beneath the layer of duff that carpets the
rainforest floor. Instead of menacing critters,
I saw gulf fritillaries open and close their wings
atop fiery blossoms, territorial hummingbirds
flit in an iridescent blur to ward off trespassers,
and golden-armored land crabs stand at
attention, pincers outstretched in mock threat.
Unlike other spots in the West Indies, where
the primary lure is lounging on a powder-white
shore with a cocktail, travelers journey to
Dominica, a volcanic island between
Martinique and Guadeloupe, for adventure.
Kilometers of rainforest trails lead to black-
sand beaches fringed by coral reefs, to
waterfalls that cascade into lagoons, and to a
bubbling fumarole—a rift in the earth’s crust
near a volcano—called Boiling Lake.
One humid morning last December, I
slogged up the Waitukubuli National Trail
in the rain. On the last section of the slope,
I dropped onto a log, where my guides, two
young Dominicans named Dylan and Fabian,
were taking a breather. They had come to clear
debris left by Hurricane Maria, and I had come
to lend a hand.
Outdoor enthusiasts champion Dominica as
an ecotourism destination, in part because of
the 185-kilometer Waitukubuli, which stretches
the length of the island. It’s divided into 14
segments, each of which can be hiked in a day.
But the trail became impassable after Maria
ripped through Dominica in 2017, bringing
high winds and driving rains that also wiped
out farmland and villages. Now, island hotels
and guides have introduced post-hurricane My home base on Dominica was the newly FROM TOP: One of
voluntourism projects, including trail reopened Secret Bay resort, six private villas on three honeymoon
rehabilitation, for visitors who wish to assist in the northwestern coast. Through the resort’s villas at Secret
Bay; the coastline
the recovery. concierge, I connected with Annette Peyer of northern
Loerner, a Swiss expat who owns the rustic Dominica.
Tamarind Tree Hotel with her husband, Stefan.
After the hurricane, Annette adopted Segment
11 of the trail, taking responsibility for its
clearing and maintenance. Since work began,
Annette has cleared about one-third of the
12-kilometer stretch, part of which passes
through Morne Diablotin National Park, home
to the island’s tallest mountain.
My day on the Waitukubuli began when I
met up with Annette at the trailhead, where she
was waiting with a few other volunteers. We set
out along the cleared portion of Segment 11.
After an hour of hiking, we reached the point

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 47

EXPERIENCE

where work had stopped. Fabian stepped into

the dense undergrowth and pulled out power
tools that had been concealed under a tarp.
Annette opened a rucksack that held scythes,
rakes and heavy gloves. As she doled out the
equipment, Fabian fired up the chain saw. Up
the trail, he cut fallen trunks and limbs that
obstructed our path while Dylan whacked at a
tangle of vines and razor grass. The rest of us
followed behind, heaving logs and heaps of
brush into the surrounding forest.
When I wasn’t working, my bungalow at
Secret Bay provided a plush refuge. Each
morning I sipped coffee on the deck overlooking
Cabrits National Park while bananaquits
perched on the railing, eyeing my breakfast
papaya. A wooden staircase wound down to
Tibay Beach, where I snorkeled beside a rocky
cliff, watching multicolored parrotfish munch
on coral.
Secret Bay’s owner, Gregor Nassief, has a
passion for immersing his guests in the culture
and natural beauty of the island. I drank a
sorrel-and-ginger infusion and dined on
invasive (and delicious) lionfish speared by Don
Mitchell, the resort’s boat captain. I paddled the
Indian River with Fire (born Patrickson
Lockhart), a dreadlocked boatman who pointed
The Emerald Pool,
out native flora. And I searched the trees for
in Morne Trois Pitons
parrots on the Syndicate Nature Trail with National Park.
local ornithologist Bertrand Jno Baptiste,
otherwise known as Dr. Birdy.
Despite the plywood-covered windows,
headless coconut trees and sheets of galvanized
roofing along the roadside, there were moments HELPING DOMINICA
when I almost forgot Maria had been here.
Every afternoon, gentle mountain rains mixed You can support the rebuilding At Secret Bay (secretbay.
with sunlight to paint huge rainbows that arced of this Caribbean destination dm; doubles from US$909),
over the shoreline. Hills that had been stripped just by visiting, but there are Fort Young’s sister property,
many ways to add a service guests who participate in the
bare burst with bright green foliage. Roads and
component to your travels. resort’s “Nurture the Nature
hotels had reopened. And the island’s rare,
Maria’s winds scalped the Island” experience will venture
endemic parrots, the sisserou and the jaco, jungle canopy, allowing along a portion of Segment 11
announced their presence with distinctive sunlight to reach formerly with the ornithologist Dr. Birdy,
squawks, allaying fears that they had fled to shaded sections of the forest learning about and helping
Guadeloupe—though they stayed hidden floor. Because of this, fresh with regrowth of native trees.
during our morning mission on Segment 11. growth can swiftly reclaim Guests can also choose to help
That afternoon I floated in the warm sea, cleared trails, so maintenance clear the beaches of the
letting the salt water bathe the incisions the is crucial. The Fort Young hurricane debris that
razor grass had made on my skin. Overhead, Hotel (fortyounghotel.com; continues to wash up on them.
doubles from US$244), in the New resorts promise to
the daily rainbow began to take shape, along
capital of Roseau, rehabilitated further aid the island. Cabrits
with the glimmer of a twin, and I recalled that
Segment 3 of the Waitukubuli Resort & Spa Kempinski
a local woman I’d met at dinner the night before National Trail. Guests can (kempinski.com) is scheduled
had told me there had been more double assist in keeping the to open in November, with a
rainbows since Maria. 13-kilometer stretch weed- mission to sustain the
“I think,” she said, “that it’s nature’s way free, while bathing at multiple surrounding Cabrits National
of cheering us up.” hot springs along the way. Park. — G.D.V.

48 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

LET’S
CONNECT
W W W.TR AVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM TR AVELLEISUREASIA @TR AVLEISUREASIA @TR AVEL ANDLEISUREASIA
 T H E T+L G U I DE TO SHOPPING IN

Le Mont St. Michel’s

boutique in the
Marais neighborhood
carries an array of
Breton-stripe sweaters.

You’ve been to the Louvre, the Tuileries and the Eiffel Tower. Now it’s time to
bring home some of the city’s legendary chic. From the venerable grands
magasins and flea markets to the newest purveyors of street style, our experts
will lead you to that essential outfit or objet you won’t find anywhere else.

P HO T O G R A P H S B Y C É L I N E C L A N E T

50 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM


THE ENTHUSIAST’S
PARADISE
Paris lets you indulge your passions, no matter how out of the
ordinary. Whether it’s antique maps, exotic spices or artful graphic
novels you seek, you’ll find it for sale here. BY ALE X ANDR A MARSHALL
PEOPLE COME TO Paris for all the
usual reasons: to explore museums,
stroll the banks of the Seine, nibble
pastries and haunt bistros. But
according to the informal polls I’ve
conducted with visiting friends over
the dozen years I’ve lived in France’s
capital, above all else they come to
shop. Who can blame them? Paris
has been producing world-class
design for centuries. Yes, many of the
city’s signature goods have become
available outside France, but that just
means it’s now more of an adventure
to sniff out unique city offerings.
Commit yourself to going local,
one-of-a-kind, eccentric or nerdy—
qualities that Paris has in spades.
The flea markets are a natural first
FROM LEFT: Les Puces
de St.-Ouen, one of
the city’s famous flea
markets; vintage
Louis Vuitton luggage
at the market.
stop. While on the weekends
connoisseurs with cash to burn go
north to Les Puces de St.-Ouen
(marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com),
where permanent stalls are filled
with high-ticket antiques, stylish
bargain hunters head to Les Puces
de Vanves (pucesdevanves.fr), at
the southern edge of the 14th
Arrondissement. It’s a proper
Saturday and Sunday flea market
with a far less intimidating degree
of specialization: a joyful jumble of
transferware by French producers
like Sarreguemines or Saint-
Amand, fur coats, wartime maps
and stentorian oil portraits, all
from sellers eager to clear off their
tables by morning’s end. On
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019
weekdays, go to the Ninth, where the
basement level of the accessible,
often quirky auction house Drouot
(9 Rue Drouot; drouot.com) is loaded
with antique medals, handbags and
enough wine to fell an army. These
are less glamorous realms than
curated boutiques like Montaigne
Market (18 Ave. Matignon; montaigne
market.com), in the Eighth, or the
Broken Arm (12 Rue Perrée; the-
broken-arm.com), in the Marais. But
no one back home will have anything
you walk away from Drouot with.
Paris is a hobbyist’s dream. If you
have a love of cooking or comics,
you’ll find more here than you ever
could on Amazon. E. Dehillerin
(18-20 Rue Coquillière; edehillerin.fr),
an exhaustive cooking supply store is
your go-to for copper pots, though it
displays only floor samples. Reading
French helps if you want to take full
advantage of the country’s graphic
novels, called bandes dessinées or
bédés, but the artistry of Bastien
Vivès’s love stories, Riad Sattouf’s
memoirs and Manu Larcenet’s goofy
odysseys have a pull beyond
language. Good selections are
at Album (67 Blvd. St.-Germain;
album comics.com), in the Latin
Quarter, and Opéra BD (2 Rue des
Tournelles; operabd.com), in the
Marais. You can simply follow your
nose at Épices Roellinger (51 bis Rue
Ste.-Anne; epices-roellinger.com), the
spice emporium of chef Olivier
Roellinger, whose roasted cumin
seeds, Madagascar vanilla and
buckwheat butter cookies are some
of the easiest gifts to pack.
It would be a crime to leave the
country without Breton stripes,
which the French really do wear,
constantly. Marais boutique Le Mont
St. Michel (96 Rue Vieille-du-Temple;
lemontsaintmichel.fr) uses heirloom
knitting techniques to fashion pricy
Wes Andersonesque separates for
men and women. But really, some of
the best sailor shirts in town are at
Monoprix (multiple locations;
monoprix.fr), the local equivalent of
Target, where almost anyone can
afford to bring back multiples.
51
GUIDE SHOPPING

PRINTED
MATTERS
In a city dedicated to providing
aesthetic pleasure, it’s no
FROM LEFT: Sennelier surprise that some of the best
art-supply store; bookshops highlight art,
linens embroidered
by hand at Noël. fashion and photography.
BY SAR AH MOROZ

At Librairie Marian Goodman (66 Rue du

Temple; mariangoodman.com), a sleek and
slender bookstore across the street from
the influential Galerie Marian Goodman in
the Marais, you’ll find monographs on such
artists as Gerhard Richter and John
Baldessari, as well as a smattering of
limited-edition art objects, like a Maurizio
Cattelan scarf. A few blocks away,
Le Comptoir de l’Image (44 Rue de
Sévigné) is overstuffed with teetering

TRADITIONS stacks of vintage issues of Vogue Italia,

The Face and other collector bait. The
wooden shelves bow under the strain of
OF EXCELLENCE fashion books, including out-of-print titles
by such photographers as Louise Dahl-
With their roots in earlier eras, these establishments don’t Wolfe, Herb Ritts and Walter Pfeiffer.
break the mold—they made the mold. BY JOSHUA LEVINE The prestigious auction house
Artcurial (7 Rond-Point des Champs-
Élysées; artcurial.com), which occupies a
stately 19th-century mansion, has its own
bookshop, with titles on art, sculpture,
ceramics and furniture, including
ANY PARISIAN WHO Joseph-Christophe archives for its catalogues for current auctions. You’ll
has put brush to Charvet, who opened exquisite collections. find a more cutting-edge sensibility at
canvas has likely the world’s first shirt The 150,000 Le Bal Books (6 Impasse de la Défense;
bought paints at store in 1838. Charvet woodblocks at Zuber lebalbooks.com), which adjoins an art
Sennelier (3 Quai (28 Place Vendôme; & Cie.’s factory, in the space of the same name. The neatly edited
Voltaire; magasin charvet.com) has Alsatian town of selection includes titles, many of them
sennelier.net). Well, made shirts for such Rixheim, are signed, from independent presses, zines
since 1887 anyway, notables as classified as from around the globe and rare editions.
which is when Baudelaire, Churchill French historical
chemist and colorist and Gary Cooper. monuments. The firm
Librairie Marian
Gustave Sennelier The Noël family has been using them Goodman, an art
opened his shop just began embroidering since 1797 to print bookstore in the
across from the linen in 1883. New panoramic Marais.
Louvre. Former owners took over the landscapes—
clients include house of Noël (1 Ave. Brazilian jungles,
Picasso, Cézanne Pierre Premier de Swiss mountains—
and Degas. Serbie; noel-paris. on wallpaper. Stroll
The word com) 110 years later, by the Paris
chemisier, or but the shop still showroom (36 Rue
shirtmaker, was draws on the 13,000 Bonaparte; zuber.fr) to
coined for patterns in its pick up a roll or two.

52 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 Y
CR
AN
EL
Balibaris

ED
RU
CANAL
LE
S EIL
AR
EM

QU
Medecine
ED Oxbow

AI
RU Douce

DE
Hircus

ST.-MARTIN
Centre

VA
Commercial

L
MY
PA IR E
RUE
Make My
Small, independent stores have been opening all over this bohemian Lemonade

E AU R E
Y VE
quarter, transforming it into a dynamic shopping destination.

ST

RUE B
OUD
BY LINDSEY TR AMUTA

IC
EU
DI
E
RU

CENTRE COMMERCIAL MEDECINE DOUCE MAKE MY LEMONADE

This multi-label boutique,
founded by the owners of
sustainable shoe brand Veja,
specializes in colorful, casual
clothing for men and women,
including labels like Saint
James, Roseanna and Common
Projects. 2 Rue de Marseille;
centrecommercial.cc.
HIRCUS
Think of this as the Everlane of
Paris: luxurious garments—
including grade-A Mongolian-
cashmere tops, sweaters and
jackets for men and women—
at reasonable prices, made
using transparent production
methods. 29 Rue Beaurepaire;
hircus.fr.
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y M AY PA R S E Y
At this boutique and atelier,
jeweler Marie Montaud crafts
an ever-rotating line of sleek
accessories, from gold-plated
brass hoop earrings with
chiseled metal beads to
ultrathin rings in 18-karat gold
dotted with diamonds or
precious stones. 10 Rue de
Marseille; bijouxmedecine
douce.com.
BALIBARIS
With timeless cuts and well-
made fabrics, this menswear
label straddles everyday
apparel and business casual in
a subdued, classically Parisian
color palette. 14 Rue de
Marseille; balibaris.com.
With its pastel pink-and-green
interior, this is the first brick-
and-mortar shop from
designer Lisa Gachet, whose
penchant for vibrant prints and
retro fashions has earned her a
following online. 61 Quai de
Valmy; makemylemonade.com.
OXBOW
France’s leading brand of surf
clothing now has a flagship,
with wetsuits, swimsuits and THE INSIDER
accessories for stand-up DANIEL
paddleboarders. 31 Rue BOULUD
Beaurepaire; oxbowshop.com. Chef and restaurant
owner
MY WIFE loves tea. You
can find Mariage Frères
in many places these
days, but they have a
unique blend at their
salon in the Fourth
Arrondissement (35 Rue
du Bourg-Tibourg;
mariagefreres.com). We
FROM LEFT: Make My bring hot chocolate from
Lemonade, a new Angelina (226 Rue de
clothing boutique; Rivoli; angelina-paris.fr)
earrings from
Medecine Douce. back to New York—our
kids adore it. La
Chambre aux
Confitures (multiple
locations; lachambreaux
confitures.com) sells its
own wonderful seasonal
fruit jams, as well as
honey and a range of
chocolate spreads.

La Bovida (36 Rue

Montmartre; labovida.
com) is like a huge
supermarket for cooking
supplies. It’s where I used
to go as a young chef
to see all the new
equipment.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 53

GUIDE SHOPPING

R ue M on to
Nose Christophe Robin

Ru
Rue Bachaum ont

rg ue il
eM
QUARTIER

on
De Marseille

tm
et d’Ailleurs

ar t
Kiliwatch Paris

re
Pa ss ag e du

MONTORGUEIL G. Detou
Rue Tiq uet onn e
Gr an d- Ce rf

The area near the Étienne Marcel Métro stop in the Second Rue É
Étienne Marcel
Métro station
t ienn
Arrondissement has a number of small boutiques and a e Mar
c el
welcome lack of crowds. BY R ACHEL FELDER

NOSE DE MARSEILLE ET KILIWATCH PARIS

This perfumery offers D’AILLEURS A mainstay for
more than 500 Located in a covered Parisian tastemakers
scents—including arcade that evokes a looking for casual
options from Aether, scene from a Balzac clothes, this concept FROM TOP:
Miller et Bertaux, and novel, this fragrant store stocks pieces Some of the
Heeley—but the boutique offers from French labels like many fragrances
available at Nose
assortment never handcrafted soaps Avoc and April 77, as perfumery; the
seems overwhelming, as well as a small well as accessories boutique uses
thanks to a clean layout selection of and vintage items. a library of
and a knowledgeable personal-care and 64 Rue Tiquetonne; reference scents
to guide
team. 20 Rue beauty products. kiliwatch.paris.
customer
Bachaumont; nose.fr. 1 Passage du Grand- selections.
Cerf; demarseilleet
CHRISTOPHE ROBIN dailleurs.com.
This French hairstylist’s
products are cult G. DETOU
favorites. The shop at A favorite of
his salon is grand yet gourmands since the
inviting, with retro 1950s, this shop is
furnishings and a packed with hard-
welcoming staff. The to-find pantry items.
focal point is a shell- Baking ingredients
shaped sink that are a specialty, from
resembles a silver dragées to
Renaissance fountain, chocolate bars from
where customers can heritage French
have their hair washed brands like Voisin and
and sample the wares. Weiss. 58 Rue
16 Rue Bachaumont; Tiquetonne;
christophe-robin.com. 33-1/42-36-54-67.

I LOVE SHOPPING in the First Arrondissement in the area around my

I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y M AY PA R S E Y

store, Memo Paris (24 Rue Cambon; memoparis.com). There’s a fantastic

lingerie brand, Cadolle (4 Rue Cambon; cadolle.com), run by the same
family for generations. I also like Fauré Le Page (21 Rue Cambon;
faurelepage.com), which makes beautiful leather handbags. For clothes,
THE INSIDER
Le Bon Marché (24 Rue de Sèvres; 24sevres.com) is one of the go-to
CLARA MOLLOY destinations in Paris. It has a great selection of on-trend designers.
Cofounder of Memo L’Écume des Pages (174 Blvd. St.-Germain; ecumedespages.com) is one
Paris fragrances of my favorite bookshops in Paris. I appreciate that it’s open late at night.

54 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM


NOUVEAUX RICHES
Sift through the latest fashions at Galeries Lafayette—and get up
close to its centuries-old architecture. BY EL AINE SCIOLINO
GALERIES L AFAYETTE, the grand
department store complex in
central Paris, is a must-visit, but not
just for shopping. It’s also an
architectural masterpiece: a neo-
Byzantine dome designed by the
Art Nouveau school of Nancy early
in the 20th century. Soaring 42
meters above the topmost floor, the
stained glass metal frame is carved
with elaborate floral motifs.
You can now get closer to the
dome via the Glasswalk, which
opened late last year. Suspended
15 meters in the air, the 10-meter-
long bridge has a glass strip in the
floor for viewing the action below.
Here you can spot the coats of arms
on the base of the dome, which
represent the 10 French cities that
were most important in the textile
industry a century ago.
The main
atrium of
Galeries
Lafayette.
©2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.
Terms and conditions apply. Black-out dates may apply. Subject to availability.
A more self-indulgent way to
enjoy the view is on the balcony at
Kaspia, a branch of the restaurant
on Place de la Madeleine. Caviar is
the specialty, though a plate of
tarama with a flute of champagne is
no less perfect. Head to the Ice Cube
Bar on the rooftop terrace for
cocktails and arguably the best
A Taste of Luxury
free-of-charge view of the city.
Galeries Lafayette carries 3,500 Your luxury break awaits.
clothing brands, beauty products Reserve 3 nights and be
and housewares. If you need the enticed with a complimentary
perfect handbag but haven’t chosen
a designer, you can find offerings
4th night, including daily
from Bottega Veneta to Louis Vuitton breakfast for two and a luxury
and Chanel. Unlike some boutiques, airport round trip transfer.
where you can only look at the
products, here you can touch them
and try them on for fun. On rainy
days it’s a great place to lift your The St. Regis Bali Resort
spirits. galerieslafayette.com. Kawasan Pariwisata, Nusa Dua Lot S6,
Po Box 44, Nusa Dua Bali 80363 Indonesia
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 UPGRADE
JUNE 2019

T R AV E L S M A R T E R

Mile-High Club
First class isn’t the only way to fly.
How about flat beds, chefs and
your own crew on one-of-a-kind
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y C H O T I K A S O P I TA R C H A S A K . S O U R C E I L L U S T R AT I O N : F R E E P I K

trips that let you skip the customs

line? Private-jet tours are taking
well-heeled travelers for the most
luxurious cultural exchanges.
BY JENNY HEWETT

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 57

UPGRADE

“ONCE I GET YOU UP THERE,where the air is rarefied, we’ll just glide, starry-eyed,” croons Frank
Sinatra in his 1958 hit Come Fly With Me. Those lyrics may have heralded the so-called golden
age of air travel, but they still speak to the way the journey is often as important as the
destination. Today, a new era of aviation has emerged that’s reigniting the spirit of flying.
Personalized, multi-stop, private-jet adventures are now the epitome of luxury travel, with some
of the world’s most exclusive hotels offering around-the-world tours in gorgeously outfitted
planes. “We’re focused on elevating travel above the ordinary,” says Javier Loureiro, director of
guest experience at Four Seasons Private Jet. “We tap into our rich network of local contacts in
each destination to provide insider access to exclusive excursions that are customized and
authentic.” Here are five you’ll want to pack your bags (and maybe liquidate your assets) for.

AMAN ASIAN CRADLES

Amanwella,
in southern OF CIVILISATION
Sri Lanka. Wheels up: October 2019
Where: China to Sri Lanka.
One of the world’s most exclusive luxury hotel
brands takes Amanjunkies sky-high on an
immersive 12-day cultural and spiritual
adventure through China, Bhutan, India and
Sri Lanka. This hotel-hopping private-jet tour
unlocks some of Asia’s most remote areas and
historic sites, with mind-blowing stays at a
marathon eight Aman properties. After
departing from Shanghai, the second stop is
hilltop hideaway Amandayan in the ancient
Yunnan city of Lijiang for cocktails and a
calligraphy lesson. In Bhutan, guests are
treated to a private blessing by a monk and
then take in the scenic landscape on a full-day

COURTESY OF AMAN (2)

hike to Tiger’s Nest. Bedding down in luxury
tents at wilderness camp Aman-i-khas in tiger
sanctuary Ranthambore, guests also have the
chance to spot crocodiles, leopards and jackals
on an open-top Jeep safari. The 19-seater jet
accommodates 16 people and features luxe
leather seating and lounge areas.
aman.com/expeditions/private-jet/pan-asia-
october; contact Aman for pricing.

Aman’s
Airbus
ACJ 318.

58 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 FOUR SEASONS TIMELESS
ENCOUNTERS
Wheels up: March 13 to April 5, 2020. The Four Seasons
Private Jet social
Where: Kona to London.
area.
Tick some of the world’s most iconic
landmarks, including the Taj Mahal and
Sydney Opera House, off your bucket list on
this this 24-day, nine-destination voyage with The Taj Mahal
Four Seasons Private Jet. Starting in Hawaii, is one stop on
the 24-day
this once-in-a-lifetime tour mixes in tropical tour.
frolics on Bora Bora and Bali with urban
experiences in some of the cosmopolitan
centers of the universe. Enjoy a spine-tingling
private concert at the theater where Mozart
performed in Prague, cruise down the Thames
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS; AL AMY STOCK PHOTO

in London at twilight, and get a bird’s-eye view

of Dubai from a seaplane. Between
destinations, guests kick back on the
52-person luxury jet, which is staffed with an
eight cabin crew, three pilots, a guest
experience director, a doctor and an executive
chef. Menus, inspired by the destinations,
come complete with wine pairings and seats
lie fully f lat, with custom-made Mongolian
blankets, mattress toppers, duvets, crisp
linens and goose-down pillows ensuring
plenty of shut-eye.
fourseasons.com/privatejet/journeys/timeless-
encounters-2020/; from US$147,000 per person
based on double occupancy.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 59

UPGRADE

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
Falcon 900XE
seats just AROUND THE WORLD BY

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F S E A M L E S S LY B Y T O U R I N G T R E A S U R E S ( 2 ) ; S T U A R T B L A C K /A L A M Y S T O C K P H O T O
eight guests. PRIVATE JET
Wheels up: December 28 to January 20, 2020
Where: Washington, D.C., to Marrakech.
The next best thing to having David
Attenborough as your seat-mate, this around-
the-world tour is hosted by a team of National
Geographic experts and explorers. Departing
from Washington, D.C., in a reconfigured
Boeing 757, with 75 VIP leather seats with
adjustable head- and leg rests and a 45-degree
recline, this trip takes in 15 unesco heritage
sites in 11 destinations, including Samoa,
Petra, Morocco, the Serengeti Plain and the
Great Barrier Reef. While staying at some of
The Touring the world’s most coveted accommodations—
Treasures trip such as a National Geographic Unique Lodges
visits The
Whitsundays. of the World on Tanzania’s Ngorongoro
Crater—guests will learn about the latest
developments in marine biology,
anthropology, archaeology and paleontology.
On hand to provide expert insights and
education are a photographer and filmmaker,
a geographer and an art historian, while the
f light crew includes an expedition chef, a
physician and a dedicated luggage handler.
nationalgeographic.com/expeditions/
destinations/around-the-world/private-jet/
around-the-world-jet-tour/; from US$98,940
per person.
SEAMLESSLY BY TOURING
TREASURES
Wheels up: October 2019
Where: Around Australia.
With its luxury Dassault Falcon 900XE jet
limited to just eight guests, this 21-day tour is
one of the most inspiring ways to see Oz.
Pairing pinch-yourself experiences with stays
at the country’s top-end hotels, such as Saffire
Freycinet in Tasmania and Southern Ocean
Lodge in Kangaroo Island, the itinerary
succinctly captures the soul and spirit of the
land Down Under. “We combine helicopters,
superyachts and private jets to cover a vast
area in an exciting and luxurious way,” says
Suzy Mercien-Ferol, co-founder of Touring
Treasures. “Guests will have a bragging list
for multiple opportunities that few rarely see,
such as the Paspaley Pearl farms, which are
accessible only by seaplane.” Enjoy five-star
meals and spa treatments, and don’t even
think about touching your luggage. “Our tours
offer opportunity to spend more time on Explore Petra,
experiences and less time in queues.” touring one of 15 UNESCO
treasures.com; from US$85,772 per person. sites on the trip.

60 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 THE ANANTARA PRIVATE
JET EXPERIENCE
Wheels up: Whenever you want—it’s a charter
Where: Maldives, Sri Lanka and Thailand.
Anantara has teamed up with bespoke
aviation experts MJets to offer chartered
private jet tours of the Indian Ocean.
Combining stays at two signature properties
at the highest-end of their luxury spectrum,
this experience is fine-tuned right down to the
VIP personal security service (upon request),
MJets’ speedy
Cessna fast-track permit applications and reduced
Citation X. immigration wait times. From your private-
island base at Anantara Kihavah Maldives
Villas, dive with whale sharks and mantas
inside a unesco Biosphere Reserve in the
Maldives by day and enjoy a private stargazing
session by night before retiring to your huge
overwater bungalow. The sprawling Anantara
Peace Haven Tangalle Resort, in Sri Lanka,
offers Ayurvedic wellness at a one of the
largest hotel spas in Asia, gastronomic
cooking classes and world-class surfing. MJets
has two private jets for charter: a Gulfstream
V, which accommodates larger groups and has
showers and fully reclining beds, and an
eight-person Cessna Citation X, one of the
fastest business jets in the world. Charters
depart from Bangkok and can be bookended
Rest easy with stylish sleepovers at one of the three
inside the
aircraft. Anantara properties in the Thai capital.
mjets.com; price on request.

ASCENT URBAN City—and the airport, long-awaited solution transport—from

AIR MOBILITY in around 15 minutes. to the infamous those precarious
Manila Ride-sharing flights gridlock; although doubledeckers to
With regular daily start from US$130. bookings need to be vintage ferries—and
flights focusing on ascent.flights. made in advance, the zippy taxis are
peak hours, the brand- buying a membership speed-demons on
Above new Ascent has a way HELICITY BY confers discounts of smart roads, but

the Fray to save you from the

Philippine capital’s
WHITESKY AVIATION
Jakarta
up to 15 percent.
Prices per head are
nothing is quicker than
the air. Sky Shuttle
Helicopter taxis mind-boggling Anyone who’s very accessible, runs 42 flights a day
cut the commute. congestion while suffered the pain of starting at between Hong Kong
By Stephanie Zubiri taking advantage of only being able to Rp12,000,000 for and Macau, and four
the high number of make two meetings a 5 people. whitesky. daily between Macau
Time may be money, helipads. This oddly day if you’re lucky in co.id/helicity. and Shenzen Airport,
but being an iconic economical by-the- Jakarta will rejoice at meaning it’s incredibly
Asian megapolis seat service lets you this fleet of new Bell SKY SHUTTLE easy to make all your
COURTESY OF MJE TS (2)

often comes at a travel to and from the helicopters ready to Hong Kong, Macau, appointments and
price: mega-traffic. three main CBDs of serve more than 18 Shenzen your outbound plane.
These cities have Metro Manila— destinations around Hong Kong has Flights start at
taken to the sky to Bonifacio Global City, the city center and its impressively efficient HK$4,300 one way.
beat the rush hour. Makati and Quezon environs. Helicity is a and diverse public skyshuttlehk.com.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 61

DEALS

T+L READER SPECIALS

BEACH
VIETNAM
La Veranda Resort
This month, plan ocean escapes to Phu Quoc, Uluwatu or Phu Quoc
Spend your summer days in a
Langkawi, or book discounted unique stays in cities from French colonial–style mansion
Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur. and spoil yourself with either a
gastronomic or wellness treat.
Book at least two consecutive
nights at La Veranda Resort
Phu Quoc and get buffet
breakfast; round-trip airport
transfers; a welcome drink;
welcome fruit trays; daily
complimentary drinks for two;
morning wellness activities,
including yoga by the sea and
Vietnamese massage
workshops; and beach club
excursions to Sao Beach.
Guests can also choose
between a complimentary set
dinner for two at French-
Indochine restaurant The
Peppertree or a 60-minute spa
treatment for two at the La
Veranda Spa. The Deal
Summer Promotion: a night in
a Deluxe Garden room, from
US$155, through October 31.
Two-night minimum.
laverandaresorts.com.

SOUTH KOREA
Shilla Jeju
Take a break on this idyllic
Korean island with a package

FROM TOP: COURTESY OF L A V ER ANDA RESORT PHU QUOC; COURTESY OF YOTEL AIR SINGAPORE
from Shilla Jeju. The deal
includes accommodation in a
Standard Mountain View room;
breakfast for two at selected
F&B outlets (free for children
under 37 months);
complimentary access to
Soombi Spa Zone (including
indoor and outdoor swimming
La Veranda is pools, the adult pool, Jacuzzis
an oasis on
and the Finland Sauna).
Phu Quoc.
The Deal Sweet Dream in
Jeju: a night in a Standard
Mountain View room, from
W290,000, through December
SUPERSAVER 31. shilla.net.
YotelAir, Singapore
INDONESIA
Experience the new YotelAir in the just-launched Jewel Changi
Alila Uluwatu
Airport and get a special discount. With 130 cabins, the airport
The thought of a group
rest-stop includes self check-in/checkout kiosks; a 24/7 gym; vacation shouldn’t make you
shower-only cabins; space-saving smart beds; fast Wi-Fi; rain sweat, and with this all-
showers; and the brand’s signature social space, Komyuniti. inclusive package from Alila
The Deal Opening Rate: a night in a Premium Queen cabin, from Villas Uluwatu, your next big
S$140, four-hour stay from S$80, through July 31. yotel.com. getaway will be entirely stress-

62 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 free. The deal includes daily
breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea
and dinner, all available at the
resort’s signature fine-dining
and traditional warung-style
restaurants. The three-
bedroom villa can fit up to six
guests, and each has
panoramic ocean views.
Guests will also get a
60-minute spa treatment each,
return airport transfers, and a
car for local sightseeing. The
Deal All-Inclusive Escape
package: a night in a three-
bedroom villa, from US$2,000
inclusive of taxes, through
December 31. Maximum six
guests. alilahotels.com.
OUTDOOR
MALAYSIA
The Datai Langkawi
This golfing getaway pairs a
round at the Els Club Teluk
Datai with luxurious
accommodation at the recently
refurbished The Datai
Langkawi. The deal includes
two nights in a Canopy Deluxe
room; daily breakfast for two;
return airport transfers;
shuttle from the resort to the
golf course; one round of golf
for two at the 18-hole, 72-par
Els Club Teluk Datai golf
course, excluding caddie; one
time pre-dinner drinks for two
at The Lobby Lounge or The
Beach Bar; one time set dinner
for two persons at a venue of
choice at the resort;
complimentary minibar
(excluding spirits); guided
morning or evening nature
walks; and more. The Deal
The Datai Els Golf Exclusive:
two nights in a Canopy Deluxe
room, from RM6,030, through
C O U R T E S Y O F G R A N D H YAT T E R AWA N B A N G K O K
and supplies them with floral
garlands, candles and scents
to pay proper respect. After a
Thai-style afternoon tea at the
hotel’s elegant Erawan Tea
Room, set out for an afternoon
of retail therapy, armed with a
map and discount vouchers
to various shopping centers in
the area. The Deal Eat, Pray,
Shop package: a night in a
King Bed room, from Bt6,100.
Book before December 31
and stay before February 29,
2020. grandhyatterawan
bangkok.com.
HONG KONG
The Landmark Mandarin
Oriental, Hong Kong
Treat yourself to some of the
finest fare at The Landmark
Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong.
To celebrate the reopening of
the hotel’s Michelin-starred
restaurant Amber last month,
the foodie-focused experience
includes a seven-course dinner
for two at Amber (excluding
beverages); daily champagne
breakfast at Somm;
accommodation in an L900
Landmark suite; late checkout
until 4 p.m.; and priority
reservations at the hotel’s
lauded Japanese eateries
Sushi Shikon and Kappo Rin.
The Deal The Great Gourmet
Escape package: a night in an
L900 Landmark suite, from
HK$9,888, through December
31. Two-night minimum.
mandarinoriental.com.
Sheraton Hong Kong
Explore beyond the city limits
with this special package from
Sheraton. The deal includes
accommodation in one of the
hotel’s five suite types;
HK$500 dining credits to be
used at the hotel’s restaurants
and bars; and 50 percent off a
Splendid Tour, where you can
explore the New Territories or
Lantau, or go on an Aberdeen
night cruise. If you’re traveling
as a family, this deal offers a
complimentary rollaway bed
upon request, and if you sign
up as Marriott Bonvoy member,
you’ll also get free buffet
breakfast for a child under six.
The Deal Stay & Savour Suite
Package: a night in an
Executive King suite, from
HK$2,850, through December
31. marriott.com.
MALAYSIA
Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur
To celebrate the 25th
anniversary of the Banyan Tree
brand, the Kuala Lumpur
outpost has an exceptional
birthday promotion. The deal
offers 25 percent off the Best
Available Rate, spa and food
and beverage purchases. In
addition guests can choose
from one of the following
options: learn to create your
own foot scrub in a 30-minute
workshop; enjoy afternoon tea
for two at Altitude lounge; or
learn the traditions of batik
and make your very own
masterpiece. The Deal Banyan
Tree 25th Anniversary Offer: a
night in a Banyan Retreat King
room, from RM727, through
December 18. Two-night
minimum. banyantree.com.

December 19. thedatai.com.

CITY
THAILAND
Grand Hyatt Erawan
Bangkok
Combine some retail therapy
with a dose of culture on your
next visit to the Thai capital.
Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok’s
Eat, Pray, Shop package takes The Grand
Hyatt Erawan’s
guests on a private guided tour airy lobby.
to the nearby Erawan Shrine,

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 63

 JUNE 2019

A N I S L A N D T H AT WA S O N C E A C A S E -
STUDY IN OV ERTOURISM REOPENS WITH
N E W E N V I R O N M E N TA L Z E A L . T H E
SANDS ARE GETTING WHITER ON

BORACAY
P. 66

NORTH, CENTRAL AND SOUTH: THREE

S T O P S H E L P R E V E A L T H E C U LT U R A L
AND TOPOGR APHICAL DIVERSIT Y
AND HIDDEN HISTORY OF

VIETNAM
P. 76
B O AT J O U S T I N G ? A H , T H O S E Q U I R K Y
SOUTHERN FRENCH ALSO OFFER UP AN
O Y S T E R H O T E L , A W I N E E S TAT E C U M
V I L L A G E A N D B E A C H E S F O R D AY S I N

LANGUEDOC
P. 88

A N E W G E N E R AT I O N I S R E S H A P I N G T H E
U.S. SOUTH, WITH MUSEUMS, CUISINE
AND STYLE. FIND SOME REDEMPTION,
N O T T O M E N T I O N G R E AT B A R B E C U E , I N

ALABAMA
P. 96
LEIGH GRIFFITHS

Thien Hung
Pagoda, in Quy
Nhon, Vietnam,
page 76.

T R AV EL A NDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 65

 Return
to
Paradise

Boracay is back, cleaner and greener than ever.

But what are the other implications when a
popular tourist haunt shuts down for a reboot?
Stephanie Zubiri returns to the island to see if
this Philippines favorite can preserve
its soul along with its shores.

PHOTOGR A PH E D BY FR A NCISCO GUER R ERO

 At the private pool
of the Presidential
Villa in Shangri-La
Boracay's Resort
and Spa.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 67


CONFESS I WAS a little anxious as I sat
there on the plane. It was going to be the first
time I’d see Boracay again after a long period. I
loved it once, had been infatuated by the magic and
seemingly endless possibilities. My memory bank is
highlighted by long twilit walks with my first love on
the beach, inebriated sunrises that pushed my sensory
boundaries, raucous and joyful dinners with my entire
family followed by hours of dancing on the shore to
ring in countless new years. To me, Boracay has always been a
place where you could be whatever you wanted to be.
Flourlike white beaches famed throughout Asia, crystalline
turquoise waters, that laidback island lifestyle set against her
iconic golden sunset... Boracay was known not just for its party
scene but also offering a true connection to the island. Its life as a
holiday destination began in the late ’70s when it appeared in the
film Too Late The Hero, and in a quick decade it became a popular
stop for backpackers and adventure travelers. By the 1990s, it was
fully on the tourist map—yet, even then, people walked on the
sand, danced barefoot under the moonlight, lived close to the shore.
It was paradise. Until it was not. Time took its toll. Bad choices
and a rough period—the easy geniality having hardened by fast
business and a loose lifestyle. My once-deep love dwindling, I began
only returning gingerly and was always left with a bit of
disappointment afterwards.
Eventually things really went off the rails. Rapid, unrestricted
development, mass uncontrolled tourism—the infamous May 1
anything-goes trashy-party “Laboracay” tradition became
symbolic rather than an anomaly. Insane commercialization left
little of the Boracay I once knew. What did paradise have left to
offer when its sands were littered with cigarette butts and broken
beer bottles, the easy-breezy visitor demographic taken over by
bucket-list tour groups in matching baseball caps, and the
deceivingly clear waters tainted with E-coli? It’s a question many
beloved places are needing to ask themselves these days, as
68 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
overdevelopment and overtourism have
marred many of the region’s most beautiful
destinations, from Angkor to parts of Bali.
Hard choices have to be made, a delicate
balance of what’s best for a country’s economy
and its—the world’s, really—environment. In
Thailand, for example, Maya Bay on Koh Phi
Phi, made famous by the Leonardo di Caprio
movie The Beach and visited by a shocking
4,000 people a day trampling its coral, has had
its closure extended to 2021 “until natural
resources return to normal.” Bad for
Instagram, good for everything else.
This came in the wake of the Philippines’
decision to shut Boracay to tourism last April,
for six months, but with no real guarantee that
it would reopen. An estimated 1.7 million
visitors a year proved far too many for a
10-square-kilometer idyll. “As long as there is
shit coming out of those pipes, I will never give
you the time of day to return to the island,”
President Rodrigo Duterte proclaimed in
reference to the 716 out 834 businesses and
residences that were said to be dumping their
sewage into the waters. And so, Boracay was
sent to rehab.
Now I was heading back, ostensibly to
evaluate how an iconic tourist destination
could reinvent itself cleaner and greener. But,
on a more personal level, to see if I could fall in
love all over again with the island of my youth.
“I WAS DEVASTATED, and afraid of
the future,” says Djila Winebrenner, owner of
The Lazy Dog and 15-year resident of Boracay.
“All we knew was that there was going to be no
income.” Sitting in the café of her Bulabog-side
B&B, a Boracay institution, Djila expresses
what everyone on the island was feeling last
year: insecurity. Some businesses were more
prepared to weather the tourism drought,
while others have been forced to shutter
themselves permanently.
The way the shutdown was originally
positioned made many longtime residents and
business owners uncomfortable. “The
government, the media, the netizens—they all
called us greedy, they said we were breaking
the law. That hurt a lot of people, because for
years we were clamoring for attention from
the government to address overdevelopment
issues and we never got it,” Djila says. In the
end, personal feelings aside, she sees net
benefit to the closure. “I’m glad it happened,
because it may not have happened at all.”
Cold turkey seemed to be the only way and,
coming out of rehabilitation, Boracay is
looking well. You can see that whatever trauma
it has been through, the necessary treatments
The shallows in front of Crimson
Resort and Spa. CLOCKWISE
FROM BELOW: Eco-transport at
Station X; Mosaic restaurant at
Crimson; grilled octopus at The
Lind. OPPOSITE: Island trike taxis.
Soothing hues in
The Lind Hotel.
OPPOSITE: Fresh
oysters from
Street Market
in Station X.

70 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

WHIL E A DIFFER EN T
GROOV E FROM TH E
OR IGI NA L BOR ACAY

I LOV ED, IT ĐS FU L L
OF FR ESH, DY NA M IC
EN ERGY
The bar at Station
X. CLOCKWISE
FROM ABOVE LEFT:
Birdcage-chic at
The Lind; in The
Lind's bar; White
Beach is pristine
again. OPPOSITE:
Rustic design at
Shangri-La.
and therapies are being administered. Roads BORACAY IS FAMOUS for its sunsets, and it reminds me
have been widened and paved. Most of the why while I am precariously perched on the ledge of Sirena, the
piping has been laid for proper sewage. cocktail bar of Shangri-La Boracay’s Resort and Spa. The sky turns
Electrical wires have been cleaned up. a spectacular shade of orange, the golden orb kisses the sea and the
To help the island stay on the eco-friendly shore, setting them ablaze. I feel as captivated as I ever have been.
track, citizens’ arrests have been authorized Over the years, when things at White Beach had gotten too crazy,
for litterbugs. The local government has I called Shangri-La, in the northern part of the island, home. I’ve
mandated a shift to electric and solar-powered stayed in all room and villa types, and on this trip I am quite
tricycles and is slowly phasing out the old serendipitously in the same Treetop villa that I stayed in on my first
passenger trikes to combat climate change, check-in. I sleep with the curtains open so I wake with first light to
and air and noise pollution. Other measures the Rothkoesque, unobstructed view of ocean and sky. I requested a
include limiting the island’s capacity to 19,000 yoga mat, and my first morning’s practice on the terrace, under
a day, with all visitors needing a confirmed chirping birds, is one of the most amazing moments of my year to
booking from accredited hotels; watersports date. Balancing on my headstand, I face the verdant canopy of trees
such as Jetskiing need to be 200 meters away the resort has preserved, and appreciate all the efforts—protecting
from the shoreline; and no more daybeds, the island’s endangered fruit-eating bats and on-going coral rehab,
tables and chairs in the 30-meter-from-shore for example—they’ve made to stay sustainable and close to nature.
exclusion zone. Most significant is the ban on Shangri-La Boracay celebrates its tenth anniversary this year
alcohol and smoking on the beaches, with and is better than ever. One of the few resorts on the island that has
Tourism Police strictly enforcing this and an excellent support system, this grand dame took advantage of the
imposing fines. closure for refurbishments and repairs. No staff were let go, with
It’s still a work in progress, particularly in many sent off for training at other Shangri-Las, a win-win. The
the back end where construction isn’t quite service is impeccable, personal and warm. I come back to my villa
done yet. Famous White Beach, however, has one afternoon to a canvas set up on an easel with paints and
returned to spectacular.
Originally a string of small resorts, cute
bars, restaurants and shops, White Beach is
the Boracay my father is always nostalgic for.
But that’s long gone—having been replaced in
later years by mass tourism tropes, cheesy
banana boats out at sea. Now, cleaned of trash
and debris, stripped of all the lounge chairs
and tables that had encroached on her precious
shores, White Beach is completely refreshed
and returning to how I remember it. The
architecture is no longer rustic, the vibe is not
so much barefoot, but that sparkle is back. The
clear waters are truly clear; tests have shown
that it is now safe. The best proof of this:
marine life has already returned and the
massive carpets of icky green algae have been
reduced to a few healthy natural tufts.
For those who know Boracay, the mood has
changed. It feels more corporate, more
constructed but also more peaceful and calm
since they’ve been strictly enforcing curfews
and noise pollution regulations. “It’s no longer
‘Party Island.’ I’m glad all the crazy parties are
gone,” Djila says, but adds wistfully, “so are the
good quality parties from the local community
that has been here all these years and helped
create that vibe.” I wonder out loud… with all
these changes, what’s the draw for the long-
time visitor—or even for a new one on the hunt
for castaway island magic?
Just then, a shaft of light falls through the
trees, directly onto Djila. Her eyes twinkle and
her big warm smile returns. “It’s a bit harder to
find these days,” she says, “but it’s still magical.”

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 73

 Lounging at Crimson.
RIGHT: Souvenirs at
Station X. OPPOSITE:
Floating above the
fray at Shangri-La.
brushes on a table next to a bottle of wine. A note from my villa
manager, Suzette, encourages me to enjoy the sunset.
With its own cove, incredible spa, amazing wine list and F&B
selection, it’s easy to never leave the property. But, as a private
enclave, it’s not quite Boracay—and I need to get out to see how
things have changed. Shangri-La while still peaceful is no longer
solitary; its home on “Station Zero” has seen the opening of a few
resorts, such as Crimson. A short walk down the beach brings you
to this ultra-modern, Mediterranean white structure. Proud
perpetrators of the longest happy hour on the island (10 a.m. to
midnight), Crimson has fantastic food to accompany all that
boozing. Think tandoori chicken with buttered naan or fresh tuna
tataki. The Latin American fine-dining outlet, Mosaic, is definitely
worth a visit, offering excellent grilled steaks and Peruvian
tiraditos. The smoked prawn ceviche is plated beautifully and
engulfed in a wispy cloud of smoke, the fresh raw prawns curing
slowly in the symphony of tangy and spicy sauces that vibe with the
sun streaming through the patterned window frames, Latin classic
Besa Me Mucho on the stereo, and my refreshing Campari soda.
Full disclosure: I actually had been to Boracay once before right
after it reopened—but our stay was so brief we only had time for
one proper meal at The Lind, a contemporary, airy resort where
friends were getting married. The wedding had been planned for
early November and the bride and groom were crossing their
74 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
fingers and toes that the island would be back
in time. Happily, the miraculous happened and
the government was true to its word, opening
the island on October 26.
I was impressed with how well-oiled
everything was at The Lind, considering its
six-month hiatus. Our server at that time,
Darwin, who is now the F&B supervisor, made
sure our rosé was always delivered frosty to
our balcony for sunset sessions. And I
encountered one of the best dishes I’d ever
eaten on the island, which left me dreaming
about it for months: grilled octopus, tender yet
charred, crisping the delicate tips of the
tentacles, bits of smoky chorizo mingling with
roasted tomatoes and the best darn romesco
sauce in recent memory. I would have returned
just for that meal, but the property is pretty
amazing all round, with wonderful views,
family-friendly facilities and a really worthy
piece of real estate: daybeds on the sands.
Unlike most of their neighbors, The Lind
allotted enough space for a lounge area—
meaning, importantly, they adhered to proper
setbacks on the beach. Sustainability has
always been at the core of both The Lind and
Shangri-La; their long-term efforts to reduce
single-use plastics have been joined by many
other establishments since the imposition of
new, strict, reopening regulations.
And while The Lind’s marketing and
communications manager Quino de Jesus isn’t
wrong when he says, “All the resorts look
pretty much the same now,” in reference to the
crop of white, cement, modern buildings that
have replaced the little rustic huts of yore,
another change is an increased emphasis on
design. The old Filipino cliché, “What happens in Boracay, stays in
Boracay,” is out the window now that everything is all about
Instagram. The younger generation’s preoccupation with social
media likes over actually socializing means the island is not saved
from the growing need for F&B to be photogenic. But to prove that’s
not all bad, visit Station X, a hip resort complex that lacks in
beachfront what it makes up for in cute, quirky décor and fantastic
retail concepts. The food market has a curry crab to die for, great
oysters, poke bowls and Korean bingsu. Round it off with some craft
coffee and cocktails. I love shopping for souvenirs at Local Color,
which has thoughtfully curated, well designed products from local
artists and artisans. While a very different groove from the
original Boracay I loved, it’s full of fresh, dynamic energy.
A LOT OF THINGS have changed for the better and yet there
is still uncertainty in the air. Back at Bulabog beach, Djila and I
walk past a whole row of boutique kitesurfing resorts that have
been boarded up for the controversial reason of “easement”—the
requirement that properties be 30 meters from the waterline.
We meet Ken Nacor, a local who was Asia’s No. 1 kitesurfing
freestyle champion for several years. After exchanging hellos, Djila
explains to me that Ken is losing his livelihood and everything he’s
saved up for, with zero compensation. I look back and see him
sitting in front of his establishment—one of several titled
properties losing their real estate to make way for an extension of a
boulevard—eerily boarded up, staring out to that paradoxically
beautiful sea, hovering like a spirit in limbo over the shell of a body.
It leaves me sad and full of unanswered questions. As much I
agree with the need to cure Boracay, measures should be
implemented fairly and with a proper action plan to address the
collateral damage. Taking titled land away from owners without
recompense and without making public the intentions doesn’t sit
right. It’s apiece with the new trike-taxi regulations: many locals
own their individual tricycles and now, though at the lower end of
the economic chain, are being told to reinvest in green-powered
vehicles without assistance. It feels a bit unfair when other fossil-
fuel vehicles such as cars and trucks are still allowed on the island.
There’s no disputing that the main attraction, that sand so white
and fine it’s unreal, is finally back to its old pure state and so are
the clear, turquoise waters. I just hope the improvements are not a
Trojan horse. Rumor had it that the closure was in fact preparation
for the opening of a large casino, after a provisional license was
granted to Macau-based Galaxy Entertainment
Group by the Philippine Amusement and
Gaming Corporation the month before
Boracay’s closure. President Duterte, however,
has been adamant about his stance against
gambling on the island, pledging that no such
casino would come to fruition under his term.
Even if that’s true, what happens after?
My last evening is spent on the iconic White
Beach. The paraws—sailboats that are finally,
thankfully devoid of advertising—dance a
graceful ballet across the painterly sky. The
tide is pulled back so far that the shore is like a
looking glass, creating prisms of scarlet and
gold. The sunset is glorious. No raucous music;
instead the beach filled with good, happy
energy, kids boogie-boarding, couples taking
photos, a friendly pug splashing about.
The day eases seamlessly into night and I
head to a party to meet some friends. In
Boracay, there are always friends around. I
had geared myself up for a crazy, drunken
night. Friday in the middle of summer—why
wouldn’t it be? But the island is calm. Our
party tapers off early and, out of curiosity, I
want to see if there’s perhaps anywhere else to
carry on. I walk out on the beach, where
instead of the usual boom boom there is a
serene hush. Children are playing with light-
up toys, glittering like neon falling stars on a
dark sky. I take in the balmy sea air and heave
a sigh. I don’t miss the blow-out, I no longer
need it here. I’m happy with the chill cocktails
and meaningful conversations. I’m happy with
the morning yoga and mind-blowing
massages. I don’t need much more than just to
be at peace by the sea. Like me, the island has
matured. It has transitioned from a wild,
unbridled paradise to something more
measured and relaxed. The immediate vibe for
a visitor might be less carefree, but it feels a
worthy trade for protecting the future.

THE DETAILS on White Beach with and eclectic music; go

STAY daybeds on the sands. for last call. Station 2;
thelindhotels.com; drinks for two P500.
Crimson Resort and doubles from US$320.
Spa Boracay Perfect Lanterna Home
for travelers looking Shangri-La Kitchen Authentic
for a party. crimson Boracay’s Resort Italian private dining
hotel.com; doubles and Spa Rustic by chef Luigi Barbolla.
from P14,000. luxury, butler service 63-998/575-2540;
and private beaches. P850 per person.
The Lazy Dog shangri-la.com;
Cute value spot on Station X / Prisma
doubles from P19,000. Young, hip and
the kitesurfing side.
lazydogboracay.com; photogenic, global
EAT+DRINK eats, good cocktails.
doubles from US$15.
Exit Bar A simple hut thehuehotels.com;
The Lind with a great local vibe meal for two P1,500.
A modern favorite
 Three for the
Histor y Books
New resorts in remote places highlight Vietnam’s diverse natural beauty while
always keeping sight of its layered history and culture. Eloise Basuki covers a
millennium in a three-stop trip from top to bottom tip.

PHOTOGR APHED BY LEIGH GRIFFITHS


IT’S BEEN A FEW days since
Tet, Vietnam’s riotous weeklong
New Year holiday, but Sapa is still in
celebration mode. “There’s a festival
tomorrow in Cat Cat village… you
should go!” says my guide, Khu,
a 20-something rice farmer from
nearby Lao Chau. Khu is leading
me through Matra, a Black Hmong
hilltribe village five kilometers
away from Sapa city, and its glut
of tourists who come to hike the
region’s famed rice terraces.
Guiding is Khu’s main source of
income now that harvest season is
over and the northern Vietnamese
winter has turned much of Sapa’s
iconic green fields into cascades of
dirt and mud.
With farm work on hold, the
locals are happy for a distraction
from strangers. As we trudge past
empty fields, I hear calls of “Hello!”
from inside a corrugated tin shack,
where a merry group of guys offers
us swigs of homemade rice wine
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019
Hilltribe meets
haute-couture at
new Sapa retreat
Hotel de la
Coupole. OPPOSITE:
At Poulo Condor
Resort & Spa, on
Con Dao, guests
can paddle on the
resort’s stream.
from a recycled soft-drink bottle. My
polite declines are useless against
their insistent laughs, so I shrug and
take a gulp. It’s Tet, after all. The
wine is potent and full of funk, but
goes down velvety and warm. “Some
people call it alcohol,” Khu says. “We
call it happy water.” Yep, the party is
still on in Sapa.
Though the Google Images
version of the region—lemon-lime
rice-paddies rolling across hills like
silk—was sadly out of season, one
77
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT: Indigo
layers on a walk in
Matra village; the
view from the top of
Fansipan mountain;
into the mist on the
Fansipan cable car;
a Gatsby-worthy dip
at Hotel de la
Coupole’s heated
pool; seared duck
with Vietnamese
root vegetables at
the hotel’s Chic
restaurant; the
hotel sits within the
yellow Sun Plaza
building, seen here
from Sapa Square;
murals painted by
the Bensley team
add 1920s flair.

bush grows year-round in Matra: the
indigo plant, a defining part of the
Black Hmong tribe. It steeps in deep,
navy-tinted vats outside most
villagers’ homes, and gives their
traditional outfits that signature
inky-blue hue. Khu spots a few stems
growing on the side of the road and
crushes the leaves into my hands
with a splash of water. I rub them
together as she instructs, and my
hands stain a Kermit green. As the
dye dries, it deepens to a light indigo.
Khu points at her midnight-blue
skirt, framed with neon-pink
embroidery, the traditional dress of
the Black Hmong people: “It takes
one year of drying for it to become
this dark.”
The textile culture in Sapa, a five-
hour drive northwest of Hanoi, is a
strong part of what distinguishes
the many ethnic minorities that live
here—the scarlet headdresses of the
Red Dao, the rainbow weaves of the
Flower Hmong. Each tribe’s
individual craft has been passed
from generation to generation, and
now they are embodied in a grand
new space in the center of town. The
Hotel de la Coupole, the first
international five-star in Sapa, takes
this rich tradition and runs with it;
both hilltribe fabrics and French
haute-couture inspired the hotel’s
aesthetics, a Wes Anderson–style
vision dreamed up by prolific hotel
designer Bill Bensley.
This stylish ode to Sapa’s heritage
is my first stop on a north-to-south
tour of Vietnam that takes in three
of its historic destinations: Sapa near
the Chinese border, Quy Nhon in the
center, and Con Dao off the Mekong
Delta; one overrun with tourists, one
virtually unknown, and the other
infamous. As each destination gets a
lavish new abode for visitors to play
in, their draw is expanding beyond
just historical appeal. But, for these
properties, the heritage that
precedes them is inherent to the
high-end experience. For me, a
first-time visitor to these parts,
I’m happy to learn the past is still
sticking around.
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019
A
T HOTEL DE LA
Coupole, I spot
reminders from my
walk in Matra
everywhere I go.
Indigo batiks cloak
elevator walls, upholstery and
pillows; lampshades resemble the
tribe’s structured headwear and
silver jewelry. Like many of
Bensley’s over-the-top interiors,
a stay here is like a night at the
museum—the Bangkok-based
designer spent five years collecting
antiques from Parisian flea markets
to represent the French haute-
couture concept, a nod to the wealthy
colonialists who used Sapa as a
hilltop retreat at the turn of the last
century. The lobby alone makes me
gawk: 500 oversized vintage spools
handspun with hilltribe threads
back the concierge, and a stack of old
French suitcases (including a Louis
Vuitton number) are piled above.
I meet up with General Manager
Jean-Pierre Joncas, who tells me I
actually just missed Bensley; he had
dropped off another 750 kilograms of
antiques from Paris just before I
arrived. “Every month he brings
more things and keeps adding to it,”
he says. I ask him when they’ll be
done and he pauses for a second,
then laughs, “I think if we waited for
him to finish, it would be another
five years before we could open.”
The hotel’s 249 rooms rise
straight into Sapa’s perpetual cloud
cover, complementing the moody
design and the eponymous glass
domed rooftops with a constant
misty setting. During clear
moments, the balcony from my
emerald-painted Deluxe room
frames vistas of Fansipan mountain,
the highest peak on the Indochinese
Peninsula, which I can, in fact, reach
right from the lobby. The hotel
shares space in a mixed-use building
owned by Vietnamese development
company Sun Group, so is just steps
away from the train station to their
groundbreaking cable car.
When it opened in 2017, the
Fansipan cable car was the world’s
79
 L I K E A MIRROR FOR
T H E STA R S, T H E OC E A N
SHINES W I T H L IGH T S
F ROM HUNDREDS OF
F LOAT I NG SQU I D T R A PS
 Private infinity
pools are a
highlight of every
Anantara Quy
Nhon villa.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 81

Playtime in the
waves off of Con
Son’s main town,
with Bay Canh
Island, a prime
turtle-nesting area,
in the distance.
longest at 6,292 meters, and made
Sapa’s highest peaks more accessible
for non-trekkers. The cable car
glides over terraced valleys, swaying
bamboo forests and cliff-side
waterfalls, but Fansipan’s beauty
peaks with its height. When we land,
the mountaintop is swallowed in
clouds. But as the bitter wind pushes
the mist away, red-tiled temples, an
effigy of Guan Yin the goddess of
mercy, a gleaming golden Buddha,
and all of Sapa below come into view.
On the way back down on the train, I
can even see the crowd gathering for
the party in Cat Cat, and I give a vain
wave to Khu from up above.
At dinner under the cupola at the
hotel’s restaurant, Chic, executive
chef Basha Shalik serves dishes
inspired from both Sapa and the
French: my sturgeon hotpot comes
with a bouillabaisse broth; a creamy
mushroom soup uses only wild fungi
from Sapa’s forests; pear tartine
uses the pho spices of cinnamon,
star anise and clove. For better or
worse, Sapa has grown up. Though
its small-town charm may be lost
with the influx of tourists, here its
legacy is still proudly on show.
B
Y THE TIME I
arrive in Quy Nhon,
a seaside city 300
kilometers south of
tourism hotspot Hoi
An, night has fallen.
It’s too dark to see how pretty my
new digs are at the new Anantara
here, but the bay’s carpet of
twinkling lights puts on an evening
show just steps from my beachfront
villa deck. Like a mirror for the
stars, the sweep of ocean shines with
lights from hundreds of floating
squid traps; Quy Nhon is famous for
its seafood, and I’ve been dreaming
about it all the way from Sapa.
Daylight casts a finer picture of
just how special this place is. The
all-villa resort is the first of its kind
not just for the Anantara brand, but
also for the location. Though it was
an important staging area for the
U.S. military during the war, Quy
Nhon is several hours off the beaten
track from its world-famous beach
neighbors Da Nang and Nha Trang.
JA DE- GR E E N JUNGLE
H I L LS CROW N E M P T Y
C R EST S OF SUGA R-
W H I T E SA N D
It may seem an odd choice for an
international five-star, but for
Anantara, with sister brand Avani
already owning the property next
door, it just made sense. “We had
this stretch of land, but Anantara
also likes to look for unusual
destinations,” director of public
relations Kate Jones tells me over
dinner at the resort’s grill-focused
restaurant, Sea Fire Salt. “People
don’t want to see what everyone else
has seen before; they want
something new.” But there’s also no
reason Quy Nhon shouldn’t be on
travelers’ bucket lists—golden sand
fronts wavy blue ocean and nearby
uninhabited islands, the forested
hills offer virgin trekking, and
ancient towers provide a peek at
Vietnam’s former Champa reign.
Central Vietnam was the base of
the Champa kingdom, which also
covered parts of Cambodia and Laos,
during the 11th to 15th centuries.
Quy Nhon’s port, Thi Nai, was an
important point of trade for the
empire with China, Southeast Asia
and beyond. After the Vietnamese
conquered the Champa people in
1471, the port town remained active,
and later became a strategic military
base for the Americans during the
war. This history and a look at local
life is weaved into every Anantara
guest’s stay—when I met with Kate,
she was just finalizing a fishing tour
where guests set out in traditional
basket boats. I get a dose on the Quy
Nhon Explorer experience, guided by
Huy, a local to the region and also the
hotel’s guest relations manager. We
visit the Banh It Champa towers that
sprout up on a hill from the region’s
flat farmlands. The skinny, burnt
orange–brick towers were built by
the people around the 11th century as
a place to worship their gods and
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019
ancestors, and to pray for protection
from droughts and floods. Inside the
tallest tower, Huy tells me not to
mind the bats screeching above us in
the triangular-roof’s abyss or the
scribble of graffiti on the walls—the
scrawled devotion of local lovers over
the years—and instead lights me an
incense stick, points at the statue of
Shiva and tells me to make a wish.
We also visit the sprawling Tien
Hung pagoda, still bustling with Tet
revelers, and the dilapidated
remnants of Quy Nhon’s former
leper colony—a still functioning
hospital and peaceful memorial on a
quiet stretch of Quy Hoa Beach.
Though this history is fascinating,
my favorite part of the tour is just
watching everyday life roll out. We
visit a small incense factory, where a
score of women swathe thousands of
bamboo sticks in a fragrant
cinnamon coating, then lay bundles
to dry beneath the hot sun. We order
a drip coffee from Huy’s favorite
café, and watch the world go by.
At lunch I get my seafood fix at
local joint Anh Vu Tom Ngai, famous
for Quy Nhon–style banh xeo topped
with tom ngai, jumping shrimp. Here
in Central Vietnam, the rice-milk
crepes are plain white without the
yellow addition of turmeric. They’re
also smaller than most of the
versions I’d eaten elsewhere in
Vietnam, cooked in a disc-sized pan
that’s overflowing with so much
bubbling oil it catches on fire, searing
the cakes with a lick of char. I layer
my banh xeo with a bouquet of herbs
and slivers of green mango, roll up
the crisp pancakes in delicate rice
paper, then dunk them in the
pineapple-spiked fish sauce—the
condiment of choice here in Quy
Nhon. One bite in and I tell Huy we’re
going to need another helping.
83
 I spend the rest of my visit
swanning around my villa, taking
advantage of my wine cellar, and
mini bar stocked with deli cheeses
and cured meats, and cooling off
with dips in my private pool. One
lunchtime, Sea Fire Salt’s executive
chef Thu teaches me how to make
banh xeo, though I’m not as liberal
with the lashings of oil that made
Anh Vu’s so addictive. Another
morning, Anantara’s head of
security, Phuc, gives us a beachside
lesson in the local martial art Viet Vo
Dao, of which he’s Quy Nhon’s
master. Surprisingly, I’m more
coordinated than I thought I’d be,
and the swift flow of movements
sends a bolt of strength through my
body. This string of villas may have
opened up Quy Nhon as a new
luxury destination off Vietnam’s
well-trod path, but here, it seems, I
don’t have to worry about the local
culture slipping away because of it.
I
t’s my first day of island life
on Con Dao, but I can’t stop
blinking away tears. This
southern archipelago just a
scenic 45-minute prop-plane
flight from Saigon has
everything you pine for in
paradise—jade-green jungle hills
crown empty crests of sugar-white
sand that give way to the bluest
oceans and even a baby turtle or
200—but the sting of the island’s
dark past is sobering.
For more than a century until
1975, Con Son, the largest island of
the group, was a prison complex rife
with inhumanity—violent beatings,
unthinkable torture and countless
executions. It started with the
French, who were ceded the island
during the Versailles Treaty in 1861
and used the prison to house
thousands of political dissidents,
including Vietnamese Nationalist
Phan Chau Trinh, an early resister
of the French occupation. When the
Americans arrived, they transferred
the prisons to the South Vietnamese
to hold communists and Viet Cong,
as well as students, writers and
other opposing voices. “There are
8,000 people living on this island,
but there are more than 20,000
84 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
spirits,” says Huong Bach, the
assistant resort manager at Poulo
Condor Boutique Resort & Spa, about
those who died in the 113 years of
Con Dao’s history of incarceration.
Over the past generation, Con Dao
has transformed its image,
becoming a lush escape for Saigon
holidaymakers, with a Six Senses
staking claim in 2009 as the luxury
resort of choice for most expats and
in-the-know tourists. Since it opened
in 2017, Poulo Condor offers this
same contemporary high-end
service with a heritage slant. Taking
the French name of the island, the
resort arranges its 36 suites and
villas like a quaint colonial village,
with signposted streets—Rue de
Tourane, Rue de Cochin and Rue de
Tonkin—leading guests to white-
washed cottages, a lake carpeted in
flamingo-pink lotus flowers, an
infinity pool with a mountain
backdrop, and, out front, that the archipelago’s famous green sea
sapphire South China Sea shoreline turtles, who lay their eggs across the
lapping at kilometers of empty, islands from May to October.
surprisingly deck-chairless, soft, After a refreshing dip in the
white sand. resort’s strip of Vong Beach, I spend
Today, this natural beauty is the rest of the afternoon exploring
eclipsing Con Dao’s scars, offering the 30-hectare jungle property by
access to some of the country’s best bike, kayaking along the in-resort
marine life. Neighboring Bay Canh stream, and ending the day with a
Island is a day-tripper’s dream, blissful few hours in the lake-view
covered in protected rainforest and spa where I try my first-ever
edged with vibrant reefs where cupping session. In my Colonial
snorkelers and divers of all levels suite, a spacious one-bedroom
can spot manta rays, dolphins, a furnished with wooden antiques and
possible whale shark, and, of course, European art, plus a full bath and
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT: Quy
Nhon’s Thien Hung
pagoda; jumping
shrimp banh xeo;
fishing boats in front
of Anantara at
sunrise; Phuc, a
master of Viet Vo
Dao, leads a lesson
on Anantara’s beach;
the resort’s Sea Fire
Salt restaurant has
ginger, green tea and
13 more salt flavors;
the beach at Six
Senses; incense at a
factory in Quy Nhon.
 outdoor rain shower, it’s easy to lose
yourself in the romanticism of the
French era. But the island’s past is
not disconnected here, rather, it’s
intrinsic: the owner, Le Ngoc Tu, was
a prisoner on Con Dao, serving three
years of a 20-year sentence. Along
with his daughter, Le Ngoc Quynh,
who decorated the resort’s interiors
with antiques she handpicked from
Saigon’s vintage stores, the pair
opened Poulo Condor as a tribute.
“[My father] wanted to give thanks to
the island,” Quynh says. “He was
CLOCKWISE FROM
still alive after the war, but some of
TOP LEFT: A his friends passed away while
traditional basket serving their sentences.”
boat in Quy Nhon; Huong has organized the prison
finding the hidden tour for me with guide Van, who
entrance to Con
Dao’s French Tiger gives vivid recounts of how shackles
Cages; the cottages chained to an iron bar bound all the
at Poulo Condor feel inmates together inside the island’s
like French colonial most well-preserved prison, Phu
homes; crab paste
noodle soup at Bun
Hai. Van tells me the legendary story
Rieu Cua Ba Hai of teenage heroine Vo Thi Sau, who
Khiem in Con Son’s became a guerilla fighter for the Viet
main town. Minh in 1948, and even managed to
OPPOSITE: Pops of
lob a few grenades at the French
nostalgia at
Poulo Condor. before she was executed at Phu Hai
at the age of 19. Today, she’s an icon
and has her own shrine where
worshippers, mostly from the north,
come to offer her expensive jewelry,
makeup, designer handbags and
fancy dresses in exchange for
prayers and blessings. Vo Thi Sau
has pride of place at the Con Dao
cemetery, where most other graves
remain nameless, and Van tells me
that the few who have tried to
destroy her headstone have all been
mysteriously haunted to their
untimely deaths.
It’s at the French Tiger Cages
where I break. Surrounded by a
larger fortress, the block of 70
pantry-sized cells for more than
500 prisoners was hidden from
outsiders, and only discovered after
a group of imprisoned students was
released and drew a map for U.S.
congressional aide to Saigon Tom
Harkin to investigate. I walk above
the cages with open, barred tops,
designed so guards could jab the
prisoners with sticks to keep them
awake, or throw dirty water on them
during cold nights. Next door, in the
solariums—roofless outdoor cells—
posed mannequins curled up in pain
help visitors envisage the real
prisoners burned to their flesh from
sitting under the sun for days on
end. It’s not somewhere I feel I can
linger for very long, but as I walk to
the exit and notice a woman sitting
on the ground softly singing, I
pause. Van says she’s chanting a
Buddhist hymn, a blessing for the
former prisoners. The tears roll.
On my last day I hire a motorbike
and cruise around the cliffs of the
island for a dose of current island
life. In the breaking dawn, locals
crowd the main pier to buy fresh
seafood direct from the fishermen’s
boats; at the morning market,
vendors hawk tropical fruits, a
rainbow of Vietnamese desserts, and
crusty banh mi. For lunch I drop by
Huong’s family restaurant that sells
authentic Con Dao–style bun rieu
cua, a tomato noodle soup that her
relatives start making at 2 a.m.,
catching fresh blue crabs and
pounding the meat to make the
moreish paste topping.
In the afternoon, I ride to secret
beaches tucked behind dense forests
all over the island—to the south,
where aquamarine coves are flanked
by a tangle of mangroves and
fishermen nap in their rainbow-
striped wooden junks; and to the
cliffs above the rocky coast of Nhat
Beach, where it’s said dugongs hang
out in the bay. As the sun sets, I join

I R I DE T O SECRET
a crowd at the small, sandy beach
that flanks the pier; most wade into

BE AC H ES F L A N K E D
the sea fully clothed. Con Dao’s
history is a sad one, and it’s clear no
one’s forgotten it. But right here,

BY A TANGLE OF with golden hour casting a glow over

the ocean filled with everyone from

M A NGROV ES old grannies to floatie-armed

toddlers, the spirits are still high.

THE DETAILS
GETTING THERE
I started my journey in Hanoi,
from which you can take a
sleeper train (eight hours) to
Lao Cai, then a 45-minute van
or taxi to Sapa town. Instead, I
took a five-hour, disco-lit night
bus, which brought me direct
from Hanoi's airport to central
Sapa. Note: despite lay-flat
beds, the ride was fairly
sleepless. An airport in Sapa
has been proposed for 2020.
For Quy Nhon, Phu Cat
airport is 45 minutes away and
can be reached with a direct
flight from Hanoi (or Saigon).
Con Dao is a short flight from
Saigon or Can Tho. Individual
hotels can book transfers, or
just ask your travel agent to
arrange the entire journey.
Most nationalities outside
of ASEAN will need to apply for a
visa before traveling; check
evisa.xuatnhapcanh.gov.vn.
Anantara Quy Nhon Villas
The beachfront villas are a
complete treat; even the bath
and shower boast floor-to-
ceiling beach views. Each villa
has an in-room wine cellar,
deli fridge and private pool.
Don't miss a treatment in the
peaceful treetop spa the
property shares with Avani.
anantara.com; doubles
from US$500.
Avani Quy Nhon Each of the
63 rooms in this refurbished
hotel has a private balcony,
and loft studios are perfect for
family getaways. Avani guests
have access to Anantara’s
main pool during low season,
and can book into Sea Fire Salt
year-round. avanihotels.com;
doubles from US$150.
Hotel de la Coupole A
wonderland of creativity and
historical design, this Bill
Bensley hotel marks a new
standard for Sapa. The indoor Six Senses Con Dao This
heated pool looks like it’s 10-year-old property features
straight out of the Gatsby slick wooden "shack" villas
mansion, with jewel-tone tiles, with incredible views of their
20s-era girls in murals, four- pretty much private, eternally
poster loungers, and huge shallow, beach. Recent
bronze statues about to dive additions are a speedy dive
into the blue. accorhotels.com; boat and an incubation center
doubles from VND2,400,000. for their own clutch of green
sea-turtle eggs. sixsenses.com;
Poulo Condor Boutique
doubles from US$680. — E.B.
Resort & Spa Privacy and
serenity abound in this family-
run jungle retreat just 10
minutes from the airport.
Villas start from 107 square
meters, while two-bedroom
pool villas are spacious
enough for families and
groups, with private beach
access. Guests have free use
of bicycles and kayaks, and
yoga can be arranged on some
mornings. Don’t leave without
booking in a massage with
delightful spa manager Chi.
poulocondorresort.com;
doubles from US$170.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 87

Teams of boat
jousters prepare to
do battle on the canal
in Sète. OPPOSITE:
An 1850 depiction of
the sport of boat
jousting. The painting
hangs in Sète's Musée
Paul Valéry.
 IN
THEIR
OWN
TIME

Like the rest of southern France, Languedoc has vibrant harbor towns, endless beaches
and rolling vineyards. But the region’s spirit of mellow eccentricity is entirely
its own—and a new generation of oddball entrepreneurs aims to keep it that way.

BY JOSHUA LEVINE | PHOTOGRAPHED BY AMBROISE TÉZENAS

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 89

 HE TINY VILLAGE of Assignan sits on the edge
of the Haut Languedoc natural park, about a 40-minute
drive from Béziers, which is where the TGV from Paris
stops. This is fairy-tale country, with medieval stone
cottages clinging to lush, tree-lined gorges and
undulating, densely wooded hills that rise up toward
dramatic granite peaks. Untamed nature reigns
supreme—the only inhabitants you’re likely to meet on
many of the local hiking and biking trails are wild sheep,
knowns as mouflons, or some of the region’s 240 species
of birds.
In these parts, clearings in the woods mostly mean one
thing: wine. There are vineyards everywhere. Many
belong to Marc Verstraete, a ruddy, good-natured fellow
from Flanders who produces nine varieties of red, white
and rosé at a winery that resembles a spaceship (from the
air, you can see it’s actually shaped like a giant bottle).
“We looked at vineyards in Provence, but there was
always something that didn’t work—too many cars, or
the train ran too close,” Verstraete told me. “Finally, the
agent said he had one more property in Languedoc, but he
couldn’t sell it because there was just nothing there! We
arrived in the evening, and it was love at first sight.”
Languedoc’s comparative emptiness and
lack of development are the main reasons it
isn’t as well known as Provence, its flashy, more
popular neighbor. There’s a lot to be said for
being overlooked, however—particularly when
a place has as much to offer as this one. With its
ancient forests; broad, uncrowded beaches; and
buzzing, ungentrified harbor towns,
Languedoc is one of the most enchanting
under-the-radar regions in France. It won’t
stay that way for long, however. Early
adopters—like Verstraete and Guy Savoy, the
celebrated chef who recently bought a vacation
home in Sète, the region’s delightful port
town—are already piling in, and others will
surely follow.
VERSTRAETE AND I WERE sitting at a café
table in Assignan’s main square, which is
movie-set perfect. Narrow, winding streets
lined with stone houses shaded from the
summer sun: check. Leafy plane trees and that
variety of lavender that fills the evening air
 CLOCKWISE FROM FAR
LEFT: A brass band
accompanies the boat
jousting in Sète; a
guest room with views
of the canal at Sète’s
Hôtel l’Orque Bleue;
vineyards near the
Castigno wine estate,
which offers tours and
tastings; one of the
restaurants at Château
Castigno, a village
repurposed as a hotel.

with a light incense: check. Café tables under a night sky

swarming with stars, like a van Gogh painting brought to
life: check.
Almost all of the village is now owned by Verstraete,
who, after buying the vineyard in 2007, quickly found the
project beginning to snowball. The manor house on the
estate was a shambles, so he also purchased a small house
in the village where he could stay during the renovation.
Then he discovered that the whole village was dying of
neglect and that most of its homes were up for sale.
“So we bought a dozen and said, ‘One day we’ll do
something with them,’ ” Verstraete explained breezily.
Nowhere to eat? Simple. Open a restaurant in town and
get your stepson to come over from Uruguay to run it. “All
the people in town said, ‘The Belgian is nuts!’ In a week
there wasn’t a table free.”
Today, the Château Castigno project has completely
reinvented Assignan and its surroundings. Verstraete
and his wife, Tine, a former costume designer, have
carefully converted stone houses into 24 hotel rooms,
three restaurants (bistro, haute cuisine, and Thai—just
because they love Thai food), and a spa. Verstraete, who
made his money in the steel business, has channeled a
lifetime’s experience as a demanding, well-heeled
business traveler into the place. He and Tine each have a
hotelier’s eye for detail, adding special touches like the
Castigno crest stitched on hotel linens by an order of
Belgian nuns known for their exquisite embroidery.
The real heart of Castigno, however, is not the hotel
but its vineyards, which yield 120,000 bottles annually.
Languedoc is France’s biggest wine-making region by far,
and though its wines are often dismissed as
unremarkable, to Verstraete the issue is one of

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 91


perception. “I’ve seen wine around here sold for
one euro a bottle. The prices are too low.”
If only younger winemakers were able to
recognize its potential and focus more on
quality than quantity, Verstraete said, the sky
could be the limit. “The future of French wine
is here,” he said. The key is getting the message
across. “I want all kinds of different people to
come to the hotel—young people, families—eat
well, stay a week, and drive away with their
trunks full of wine.”
MY TRUNK SUITABLY STOCKED, I headed
south past Béziers to the Étang de Thau, the
largest in a series of lagoons that line
Languedoc’s Mediterranean coast, starting at
the Rhône River Delta and running all the way
to the Spanish border. Between the sea and the
eastern end of the lagoon lies the town of Sète.
The two bodies of water are connected by
several canals, which give Sète virtually
unlimited options for waterside dining and a
predictable nickname: the Venice of Languedoc.
But this is a place with its own identity. The
Sètois call their town l’île singulière, and
singular it certainly is.
FROM LEFT: Florent
Tarbouriech, who
has developed a
revolutionary
method of growing
oysters; the
Tarbouriech oyster
beds in the Étang de
Thau, a lagoon near
the Mediterranean;
the pool at Château
Castigno, with the
village in the
background.
Because it is home to both beach and port, the vibe in
the town is pleasantly laid-back and sun-soaked, but with
an artsy, industrial edge—a welcome antidote to the
blingy, yacht-infested harbors of the Côte d’Azur. The
main canal provides Sète with an arena for the boisterous
local sport of water jousting, in which two teams of
oarsmen row furiously at one another, while jousters
perched on tricked-out platforms try to knock their
counterparts off.
On summer Sundays, the banks are crammed with
locals cheering on their neighborhood teams. It’s not a bad
metaphor for Sète itself, which is homegrown (they’ve
been jousting in the canal since the 1600s), slightly
ramshackle, and proud of its scrappy, nonconformist
character. The great songwriter Georges Brassens,
beloved by the French for his scruffy, skirt-chasing ways,
was born here, and in his song, “Plea to Be Buried on the
Beach of Sète,” he writes: “Poor pharaohs, kings, poor
Napoleon…you would envy a little the eternal vacationer…
who spends his death on summer holiday.”
A trip to the beach explains why Brassens wanted to
spend eternity here. Unlike the cramped beaches of the

Riviera, it is broad and sandy and runs for kilometers.
Even on a sweltering midsummer day, you can find a
quiet spot. Lining the beach are big, thatched-straw
bungalows, called paillotes, where the Sètois gather for
rosé-lubricated lunches. I stopped at one of the more
boisterous spots, La Ola, for a sublime plate of razor clams
in oil with garlic and parsley.
Brassens isn’t the only iconic French artist associated
with the place. The great master of French verse, Paul
Valéry, was from Sète; he was buried in the Cimetière
Marin, high above town on Mont St.-Clair. It is worth
walking up the hill to the cemetery for several reasons.
First, the view of the town and the sea from among the
jumble of old tombstones is poetry itself. Second, the
Musée Paul Valéry next door celebrates both the poet and
Sète’s noble lineage of painters. I lingered over two lovely
canvases by Gabriel Couderc, one depicting a round of
jousting on the canal and the other Valéry’s funeral, as
well as a raucous contemporary piece by Robert Combas
that illustrates one of Brassens’s many bawdy songs.
If you time things right, you can end up for dinner at
Anne Majourel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, La
Coquerie, just outside the cemetery walls. In a
town that glories in the simple preparation of
its fishing catch, Majourel shows how much
further you can go with some real finesse and
artistry. A superb fillet of hake came in a
shellfish consommé topped with a thyme,
shrimp and dried tomato foam. That dish alone
was worth the climb.
I BUMPED INTO MAJOUREL by accident
a few days later at Domaine Tarbouriech, a
handsome new hotel with a very specifically
regional theme on the Étang de Thau about an
hour south on the coast from Sète. The place
belongs to Majourel’s friend Florent
Tarbouriech, who supplies oysters to La
Coquerie, as well as several other of France’s
most renowned chefs. Indeed, the hotel is just
the latest extension of an expanding
Tarbouriech empire built on oyster shells.
If anything, Languedoc’s oysters have an
even worse reputation than its wine. The region
furnishes tons of them—as many as the better-
known oyster beds on the Atlantic and the
English Channel. But the small Bouzigues from
the Étang (their generic name is taken from
a nearby town) are puny and limp, their shells
lined with a dull nacre that flakes off easily.
It’s the poor man’s oyster.
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 93
 Tarbouriech grew up in Sète and dropped
out of school, where he had been studying to be
an engineer, to work with his dad in the oyster
parcs, which is what the French call the man-
made beds where oysters are cultivated. “When
you’re from Sète, you’re either a fisherman or a
dockworker,” Tarbouriech told me on the hotel’s
veranda, overlooking the elegant swimming
pool. Tarbouriech started out with mussels,
which he cultivated farther out at sea than his
competitors. By 2006, his Medithau corporation
was supplying France’s biggest supermarkets.
But his oysters remained a down-market,
commodity product.
That’s when Tarbouriech had his oyster
epiphany. One of the big reasons Atlantic
oysters are heartier than their Mediterranean
cousins is that they spend hours a day out of the
water when the ocean tides pull back. As a
result, the oysters have to work harder to
conserve moisture than the soggier Bouzigues.
As any gym rat will attest, strenuous exercise
pumps you up, and that’s as true of oysters as it
is of people. Tarbouriech wondered why he
couldn’t just lift his Mediterranean oysters out
of the water for protracted periods to make
them work as hard as Atlantic oysters. It took
him eight years to develop and install a reliable
solar-powered system that could hoist tons of
oysters in and out of the water every day. When
he started with his father, Tarbouriech worked
just four oyster parcs; now his mechanism
powers 100, each 10 by 50 meters.
Tarbouriech and I sampled the fruits of his success at
Saint Barth, an oyster shack that sits beside his
processing plant on the lagoon. It’s a cavernous place, yet
every table was taken. Tarbouriech first gave me a
“Tarbouriech”—his super-oyster’s unsurprising name.
Then he gave me a Bouzigues. (Tarbouriech still produces
them, too—it’s a business.) The two specimens couldn’t
have been more different. The Tarbouriech was big,
plump and scrumptious, its inner shell lined with nacre
as hard and shiny as nail polish. The Bouzigues? You don’t
want to know.
The success of Saint Barth convinced Tarbouriech that
his oysters could pull in people from afar. He had bought a
fanciful old manor house up the road in 2012, mostly as a
place where his whole family could live—his wife and two
of his three grown-up children are in the business. But
the kids chose to live on their own. So what do you do with
a ruined 18th-century folie? The answer was obvious:
turn it into an oyster hotel. “I’m just doing what they’ve
been doing with wine tourism in Burgundy and
Champagne for twenty years,” Tarbouriech said. “It’s the
same thing, but for oysters.”
I stayed in the hotel’s sumptuous Japan room, which
has a ceiling so high it could be on the next floor and a
 FROM FAR LEFT:
Razor clams and a
glass of local rosé
at La Ola, a beach
restaurant in Sète;
room to breathe
on Sète beach; the
laid-back vibe at
La Ola.
private terrace almost as broad. Why a room
dedicated to Japan? Because Japanese oysters
restocked French beds after the local oysters
were wiped out by an epidemic of gill disease in
the 1970s. There are only four immense
bedrooms in the main house (and 11 suites in a
new building behind it), lending the place a
personal, homelike feel. The extensive spa
facilities feature Tarbouriech’s own Ostrealia
wellness products, which are made with oyster
extracts. I got a dandy hot-rock massage, except
instead of rocks they used oyster shells. After
all, when you’re inventing oyster tourism, why
not go all the way?
A lot of what I encountered in the region
had this kind of loose-limbed, unpretentious
vibe—and was all the more winning for it. If
there’s a criticism of French style, it’s that it
can sometimes be a little stiff and self-
important. That’s often the price to pay for
perfection. But if you want to unbutton your
collar and get a taste of southern France in all
its raw, unfussy glory, Languedoc is a great
place to start.
Planning a Languedoc Tour
Set aside a week to do wine country, check out the oysters
and experience the beach scene in Sète.
GETTING THERE
The TGV from Paris to Béziers
takes a little more than four
hours. The nearest
international airport, in
Marseille, is a two- to three-
hour drive from the area.
ASSIGNAN
Much of the village on the
Château Castigno (village
castigno.com; doubles from
€132) wine estate has been
repurposed as a plush hotel,
where guests take their meals
in a picturesque square.
There’s also an haute cuisine
restaurant, La Table, run by
two brothers who well
deserve their Michelin star.
Guests can try grape-infused
treatments in the spa or
explore wine country in one of
the hotel’s wine-colored
classic Citroëns.
SÈTE
I loved the shabby-chic vibe of
Hotel l’Orque Bleue
(orquebleue.fr; doubles from
€89). Make sure you ask for a
canal view. There aren’t many
tables at La Coquerie (1
Chemin du Cimetière Marin;
33-6/47-06-71-38; prix fixe
F ran ce
ÔNE RI V ER
RH
LANGUEDOC
Montpellier
Assignan Marseillan
Béziers Sète
ÉTANG DE THAU
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019
from €65), Anne Majourel’s
magnificent restaurant
overlooking the sea, so make
sure you call ahead. You
wouldn’t want to leave Sète
without eating at one of the
informal restaurants that line
its endless beach. Try the
boisterous La Ola (laola.fr;
mains €15–€25), where half of
Sète turns up on a sunny
Sunday.
MARSEILLAN
The rooms in the new building
at Domaine Tarbouriech
(domaine-tarbouriech.fr;
doubles from €275) are lovely,
but the grand manor house is
where you want to be. Take
your oysters at Le Saint Barth
(lestbarth.com), from where
the Tarbouriech oyster parcs
are in full view.
TOUR OPERATOR
Butterfield & Robinson's
Kathy Stewart—a member
of the A-List, Travel + Leisure’s
collection of the world's top
travel advisors—can arrange
private itineraries in
Languedoc, with optional
cycling excursions through
nature preserves and
medieval villages (butterfield.
com;  from €1,340 per person
for a five-night trip). — J.L.
PROVENCE
Marseille
95
 Southern
P R I D E,

Southern
P R O M I S E

Alabama is a place of boundless creativity and abundant natural resources—

with an unfathomably painful past. On a road trip from city to shore,
Kevin West finds the state’s residents reckoning with its legacy and
coming up with entirely new definitions of what it means to be Alabaman.
PHOTOGR APHED BY RINNE ALLEN
 Highlands Bar & Grill
pastry chef Dolester
Miles (left) and
co-owners Pardis and
Frank Stitt at their
Birmingham restaurant.
OPPOSITE: Chantilly
House, a project by
Auburn University’s
design/build studio
in Alabama’s Black Belt.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 97

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:
The Montgomery church where
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.
preached from 1954 to 1960;
owner Johnny Fisher (left) and
chef Bill Briand at their Orange
Beach restaurant, Fisher’s; the
Edmund Pettus Bridge, in
Selma, site of the famed 1965
civil rights march; a quilter at
work in Gee’s Bend; Birmingham
mayor Randall Woodfin; local
oysters at the Royal Oyster, in
Gulf Shores; a sign marking the
spot where Rosa Parks’s civil
disobedience launched the
Montgomery bus boycott;
downtown Birmingham.
The devilwas beating his wife
as I crossed the Alabama state
line. I was driving from
Nashville, in a hurry to reach
Muscle Shoals, and I had
gotten to the point where I-65
snakes down from middle
Tennessee’s Highland Rim.
When the highway levels out again and runs
straight, you find yourself in the cotton-growing
Heart of Dixie, as Alabama has been known since
the 1950s.
The windshield wipers on my rental car
frantically tried to keep pace with an August
downpour. Then, in a clap, the sun broke through
and electrified the gloom, even as the rain continued
to fall—in Southern folklore, that’s the devil beating
his wife. Luminous spray trembled above the road,
and sunlight bounced off wet pastures on either side.
Light and mist rose together, particulate gold. On
the stereo, Aretha Franklin’s voice climbed through
the verses of “Mary, Don’t You Weep,” shining in
glory with the sun. When the clouds closed again, I
was off the interstate and on a two-lane behind a car
with the license plate luv bama. I passed a field of
King Cotton, its leaves dark as poison ivy.
Muscle Shoals was not meant to be on my
itinerary, but I was in Nashville when I heard about
Aretha’s death, and decided to pay my respects at
FAME Studios, where the Queen of Soul laid down
tracks that would eventually become her career-
defining hit record, I Never Loved a Man the Way I
Love You. I bought a funeral wreath and a vintage
LP of Aretha’s Gold to leave as tributes and drove to
FAME in a car called Soul—honest to goodness, the
rental agency issued me a Kia Soul. The studio would
close at five.
When I got there at 4:15, the nice man in the front
office listened to my story and said the last tour of the
day had already begun, but I was welcome to join it. I
pushed open a door into the carpeted studio. A FAME
sound engineer interrupted his tour to greet me.
“Come in,” he said. “I’m telling some stories about
Aretha Franklin.”
He was in the middle of a famous one: how
Atlantic Records producer Jerry Wexler had
brought Franklin to FAME to record with the
Swampers, the house band that would go on to back
the Rolling Stones, Etta James and Paul Simon,
earning the group—and FAME itself—music
immortality. The session lasted just one day because
of a drunken fight between Aretha’s husband and a
musician. The Swampers later flew to New York to
finish the album’s title track as well as “Respect,”
Aretha’s first No. 1 hit. The Queen had arrived, and
her reign began on a single day in this very room,
the sound engineer said.
The visitors glanced around, shook their heads,
made little noises. One spoke: “It was a….” he said,
before words buckled under the weight of his awe.
The engineer finished the thought for him—for all
of us. “It was a milestone.”
A W EEK OF M ILE STON E S: that’s how
I’d describe my road trip through Alabama. My
home state is Tennessee, but I’d never been to
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 99
Alabama apart from one drunken New Year’s Eve in
Opelika. Most of what little I knew about the state
boiled down to the civil rights era and college
football. And the music, from the Blind Boys of
Alabama to the Alabama Shakes. If pressed, I could
have come up with Truman Capote and Harper Lee
whispering childhood secrets in Monroeville, white
barbecue sauce, and something about the space
program in Huntsville. The Alabama of my mind
was hung with faded garlands, and the thought of it
made me uneasy, like a family member who
sometimes lets slip a racist word.
It had nothing to do, in other words, with what I’d
been hearing from trusted friends about the vibrant,
progressive Alabama they knew: The flourishing
fashion and music scenes around Florence, across the
river from Muscle Shoals. The sophisticated food
culture in Birmingham. The experimental
architecture and agriculture out in the Black Belt, a
region named for its rich, dark soil. Rebirth, returns,
accolades. Last year, a new monument, the National
Memorial for Peace and Justice, opened in
Montgomery. (Its colloquial handle, “the lynching
memorial,” is more painfully descriptive.) Then there
was the grand reopening of the Grand Hotel on
Mobile Bay, and, down at Gulf Shores, a new
generation of oyster farmers, fishermen, and chefs
who, post–Deepwater Horizon, have been rebranding
the stretch of shoreline sardonically called the
Redneck Riviera. Even Alabama politics has held
surprises. In 2017, Democrat Doug Jones, an
attorney who successfully prosecuted two of the
Klansmen who bombed Birmingham’s 16th Street
Baptist Church in 1963, was elected to the U.S.
Senate. That same year, Randall Woodfin, a
charismatic 37-year-old African-American political
novice, won the Birmingham mayoral race. On the
eve of its 200th anniversary of statehood, there was a
new Alabama to discover.
I was apprehensive all the same. Alabama is not
uniquely burdened with America’s racial history, I
know. The Southern Poverty Law Center, based in
Montgomery, has documented hate groups in every
one of these United States. But somehow the buried
mass of injustice seemed closer to the surface in the
state where Jefferson Davis was sworn in as
president of the Confederacy. To prepare, I reread
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s “Letter from
Birmingham Jail” and clicked through pictures of
marchers under attack by police dogs and officers
wielding fire hoses.
“A R E YOU A L A BA M A HOUSE S?”
I had just sat down for dinner at Odette, a farm-
to-table restaurant in Florence. The man speaking to
me was a silver fox: a sweep of hair, natty dress,
gentry accent. I wasn’t sure I heard him right. “Are
you Alabama Houses?” he repeated, explaining that
100 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Alabama is not
uniquely burdened
with America’s
racial history. But
the buried mass of
injustice seemed
closer to the surface
in the state where
the Confederate
president was
sworn in
he and his wife thought I resembled the amateur
architectural historian behind the Instagram
account @alabamahouses. The man introduced
himself as Fennel Mauldin and insisted I join them
for dinner.
Fennel and Evie Mauldin grew up in the area and
knew everybody. Their stories came like hors
d’oeuvres—artful and tasty. Like how the hotel
where I was staying, the GunRunner, used to be a
Cadillac dealership, its lobby bar a Cadillac-size
freight elevator. How fashion designer Billy Reid
turned his annual food/music/ideas festival, the
Shindig, into something like a homegrown South
by Southwest. And how Florence’s other big
designer, Natalie Chanin, runs a café at the factory
of her Alabama Chanin label that serves the best
brunch around.
“This has happened in the past five years,” Fennel
said. “My generation left. They all moved to Atlanta.
What’s different now is the younger generations
are staying.”
The next morning at Alabama Chanin, I tried out
Fennel’s thesis on Natalie Chanin, with her
Emmylou Harris–white hair. She didn’t disagree,
but placed Florence’s renaissance within a historical
context. “There’s always been a creative bent to the
area,” Chanin said in her honeysuckle accent, name-
checking musicians and Pulitzer-winning novelists.
Creativity is part of Alabama’s “legacy,” she said,
and then stopped and stepped back from a word
that can stink of Confederate nostalgia.
The Memorial for Peace
and Justice, in
Montgomery, honors the
memory of lynching
victims across
the United States.
FROM LEFT: Scott Peacock dyeing linens with his homegrown indigo; Birmingham’s Sloss Furnaces,
a relic of the city’s industrial-manufacturing days; Gulf State Park, on Alabama’s southern coast.
How, I asked, did she remain sensitive to the
past without becoming dismayed by it? Her label
makes organic women’s clothing and home textiles;
Natalie told me about an oral-history project she had
launched, Project Threadways, to collect textile
workers’ stories, giving voice to people who had long
been ignored. Before that, Alabama Chanin had
once planted a field of cotton and invited volunteers
to help handpick the crop; some were joyful, others
overcome with grief. Natalie’s point, Southern in its
indirection, seemed to be that Alabama’s legacy of
creativity gave her the means to respond to that other
legacy. “There’s a lot of blood in this earth,” she said.
“Maybe this is one step toward healing.”
Not far from Alabama Chanin, I saw another
project that, like a field of cotton, was more complex
than it appeared. It contained some 3.8 million
kilograms of stone stacked over the course of 30
years by Tom Hendrix, who died in 2017. The low,
wandering wall looked like a labyrinth that had been
unfolded. It memorializes Hendrix’s great-great-
grandmother, Te-lah-nay, a Yuchi tribe member who
was forced onto the Trail of Tears, then later braved
great danger to come back from Oklahoma, alone
and on foot. The artist’s son, Trace, explained that
one side of the wall, a straight path away from a
central circle, represented Te-lah-nay’s removal.
The other side, which he called “the dark path,” was
her return. “It twists and turns,” he said, “because
your journey through life is never easy.”
Te-lah-nay’s long walk resonated with history’s
other perilous journeys, from Moses leading the
Israelites out of Egypt to John Lewis and the foot
soldiers crossing the Edmund Pettus Bridge on their
freedom march from Selma to Montgomery.
TOWA R D T H E EN D of dinner that night at
Highlands Bar & Grill, in Birmingham, Red Dog set
the table for dessert. Holding a silver spoon by the end
of its handle, he lowered it into its proper place, just
so, on the white tablecloth. Born Goren Avery, Red
Dog has waited tables at chef-owner Frank Stitt’s
flagship restaurant since it opened in 1982,
ascending the ranks of his profession to the status of
living landmark. Highlands pastry chef Dolester
Miles—Miss Dol to her juniors—has also been with
Stitt since the start. Her win at the James Beard
Awards last year mattered on several levels: she
was the first African American to claim the honor,
and the first self-taught pastry chef.
“My aunt and my mom, we used to make
desserts together when I was coming up,” Miles told
me when I sat down with her, Stitt, and Stitt’s wife
and business partner, Pardis, for coffee and a slice of
Miss Dol’s signature coconut cake. “You know, I
loved it when I was little, and it all came back. I was
like, ‘This is what I really want to do.’ So Frank gave
me my opportunity.”
The night Miles won, Highlands did as well,
winning outstanding restaurant of the year after
nine times as a finalist. What the Stitts have
accomplished over 37 years goes beyond intelligent
cooking, fabulous staff and a dining room that
flatters traditionalist ideas about Southern
hospitality. Highlands essentially founded
Alabama’s progressive food scene with the
revolutionary idea that Southern cuisine could be
elevated with prime ingredients, meticulous
technique and unstuffy service. Generations of
chefs have emerged from Stitt’s kitchen as disciples
of that gospel. When I asked for the secret to
Highlands’ longevity, his response was quick:
“Respect for one another.”
“We insisted on people having a sense of…
character,” he continued, with a half-moment’s
pause to locate the precisely weighted word. “We
insisted that people not be racist, that people not be
rude, that they not be homophobic. When we have
our full meeting, 170 people, there is very much a
sense that we’re working for a good cause. Don’t you
think, Dol?”
“Mm-hmm,” said Miles. “I always felt like I was
a part of this family. I never felt any different. That’s
why I stayed so long.”
Birmingham is a relatively new city, founded in
1871. Its early iron and steel industries transformed
the raw red-clay landscape so quickly that it earned
the nickname Magic City. Suburban Mountain
Brook sprouted mansions, and downtown leaped
with skyscrapers, hotels, theaters and department
stores. That was white Birmingham.
Black Birmingham also prospered: the business
community around the current Civil Rights
Institute downtown included the offices of Oscar
Adams Jr., the first African American admitted to
the bar in Birmingham, and A. G. Gaston, a
businessman who, when he died in 1996, left an
estate worth tens of millions. But for Birmingham’s
black citizens, daily life was defined by Jim Crow.
Segregated schools, theaters, restaurants and parks
were typical of the era. Less typical was
Birmingham’s eventual notoriety. Charles Moore’s
photographs of the 1963 Good Friday march, the ones
I had seen online of city public safety commissioner
Bull Connor’s men attacking the peaceful marchers,
were published by Life and spread like airborne ash
from a distant wildfire. That September, the
bombing at the 16th Street Baptist Church killed
four young girls and offended common decency
everywhere. The events of 1963 cemented
Birmingham’s place in American history.
“Birmingham is unique in that we reckoned with
our differences on the world stage,” said Mayor
Woodfin the morning I met him in his office. “It
happened in other cities, but here you saw it.”
Woodfin, who jokes that he grew a beard to
appear more mayoral, came home to Alabama after
law school to make a difference. With charisma, big
ideas, and almost no prior political experience, he
rallied voters with the campaign message We
deserve better. Birmingham long ago ceased to be an
economic powerhouse; two generations of
postindustrial decline and exodus had hollowed it
out. Woodfin’s agenda since gaining office, he told
me, has focused on three key items, each of which is
“neighborhood revitalization.”
Neighborhood revitalization was, in fact, exactly
what I had seen the previous day. The gentrifying
neighborhoods I drove through had everything
today’s tourist or transplant might want. Beaux Arts
skyscrapers have been transformed into boutique
hotels. The Pizitz department store has new life as a
mixed-use development with apartments above a
food hall. Commercial districts have gentrified
wholesale with farmers’ markets, craft breweries,
and self-aware restaurants—a new Magic City. In
the historic enclave of Avondale, I had lunch at Saw’s
BBQ, then went next door to Post Office Pies for a
wood-fired pizza to go. Aretha was playing at both—
as well as at the Pizitz and in a gallery of the Civil
Rights Institute—part of a citywide show of R-E-S-
P-E-C-T for a life that included singing at Dr. King’s
funeral and, further along the arc of the moral
universe, at Barack Obama’s inauguration.
I mentioned Avondale to the mayor and asked if
that’s the kind of revitalization he had in mind.
Yes, he said, but his goal is to improve all 99 city
neighborhoods, including the 88, many
predominantly black, that have not flourished anew.
I asked him the same question I’d asked Chanin,
about how to reckon with the past without being
defeated by it.
“I tell people this,” the mayor said. “From a
historical perspective, Birmingham has shown the
world once how to pivot away from hatred. There
was resistance to change, and we were also the
poster child for how to make change. When those
forces met, change won out.”
K NOW INGLY OR NOT, the mayor’s take
on Birmingham—a telling that honors the moral
heroism of the civil rights era and also acknowledges
the injustices that made it necessary—aligns with
recent efforts at the state level to change how people
think about Alabama. To replace the image of Bull
Connor’s police force, for instance, with something
inspiring. One part of those efforts is the U.S. Civil
Rights Trail, which spans 100 sites across 15
states—26 in Alabama alone. Launched last year, it’s
currently under review for unesco World Heritage
designation. The campaign’s tagline explains why:
“What happened here changed the world.”
A few days later, the Civil Rights Trail led me to
Montgomery’s Dexter Avenue. It runs uphill from
Court Square, site of the former slave market, to the
Alabama State Capitol, where Governor George
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 103
Wallace gave his infamous “segregation forever”
speech on the steps where Jefferson Davis was
sworn in. Standing sentinel between the two is
Dexter Avenue King Memorial Baptist Church, built
in 1889 of red brick and named in memory of the
pastor who served there from 1954 to 1960. Tour
director Wanda Battle hugged me when I entered.
“We love on everybody who comes in here,” she said.
“That is a part of what this legacy is all about.” That
word again, but here glinting with hope 50 years after
King’s assassination.
Battle was luminous. I felt improved by her
presence. She showed me the office in which King
organized the bus boycott and told me about the 16
elderly members who still remembered him. She
sang “This Little Light of Mine” to demonstrate the
church’s acoustics and insisted I visit the Legacy
Museum and the National Memorial for Peace and
Justice, twin projects from Montgomery’s Equal
Justice Initiative. “I cried so hard when I visited,”
she said. “They made me more convinced of the
importance of my taking responsibility to love
people every day.”
I hugged Battle and went where she sent me. Both
visits require time. Each is heavy. The museum is
dense with text. The memorial has little apart from
the names engraved in 800 monuments, one for each
county in the U.S. where a lynching occurred.
Visitors appear raw and unguarded.
Later, I realized the genius of the memorial is that
it makes us grieve in broad daylight. Hidden shame
and rage are brought out to be aired in full view of
companions and strangers alike. Private emotions
are transformed into public monument. It makes no
sense to say my experience there was beautiful, but,
on levels both personal and historical, it felt
essential to our national journey.
“I’V E N E V ER M A DE the same biscuits
twice,” said chef Scott Peacock, perhaps the most
skilled caretaker of the Southern home-cooking
tradition, as his hands coaxed flour and buttermilk
into a salutary alliance, “and I have tried.” It was
before breakfast at Reverie, a white-columned
mansion in Marion, my first stop in the Black Belt,
and Peacock had already laid out honey, jam and
“enough butter to float a battleship.” He was giving
me a preview of his new project: small-group
workshops on the art of Southern biscuits. “It’s a
practice,” he said. “It definitely is. I marvel at it
every time.”
Alabama’s Black Belt is a 19-county swath of rich
topsoil at the heart of the broader southern Black
Belt. It was once the state’s wealthiest region: the
throne room of King Cotton, the Saudi Arabia of
agriculture. Before the Civil War, its landed
aristocrats outdid one another in feudal lavishness,
throwing parties with actual jousting tournaments.
Peacock quoted a resident of the era who said, “There
are two places in this world where it is possible to live
a civilized life: Paris, France, and Unionville,
Alabama.” The luxurious way of life, dependent upon
the inhumane economics of slavery, grew shabby
without it, and the Black Belt declined. What
remained was antebellum architecture and poverty.
An hour deeper into the Black Belt, the hamlet of
Boykin dozes in a bend of the Alabama River.
Peacock took me there to meet Mary Lee Bendolph,
who sat on her porch, dressed and ready, studying
the Bible as she waited for us to arrive. (I asked: the
23rd Psalm.) Bendolph belongs to a community of
slave descendants known as the Gee’s Bend Quilters,
whose creations rise to the level of great American
art. She welcomed us with hugs and a throaty laugh,
then took us inside to see pictures of her grandkids
and the quilt she sewed for the Obamas in 2009.
Bendolph, who no longer sews, accompanied us to
the Gee’s Bend Welcome Center, where the public
can meet quilters who continue the tradition.
Before we left Reverie, Peacock finished rolling
out his biscuit dough and got a pan into the hot oven.
He grew up close to the Florida state line but is now a
Black Belt stalwart. His antique house, maintained
in a state of splendid disrepair, sits on Marion’s
main drag, and his backyard garden is a one-man
agricultural experiment station that honors the
spirit of George Washington Carver, the African-
American botanist and environmentalist who
championed alternatives to soil-depleting cotton. In
a twist, Peacock’s principal crop, unlike Carver’s
favored peanuts, is inedible. He plants indigo and
processes it for pigment. “I grew that blue,” he said
of his sky-colored T-shirt, a suitable companion for
his cloudlike hair.
N E A R T H E EN D OF M Y T R I P, I was at
a marina in Orange Beach, about to eat some
Alabama-grown oysters at Fisher’s restaurant.
Owner Johnny Fisher, a Mobile native, had just
brought them from the kitchen, where chef Bill
Briand, a two-time Beard semifinalist for best chef in
the South, had disappeared for the start of dinner
service. I was mid-reach when someone at the table
proposed, with winking solemnity, that we raise a
glass to Ed King, who had died that day. Who? King,
I was told, played guitar for Lynyrd Skynyrd and
cowrote “Sweet Home Alabama.” I was struck by the
symmetry, a second passing to bookend my trip,
although this one wasn’t much noticed, even on the
Redneck Riviera.
As far as I could tell, Gulf Shores and Orange
Beach didn’t really live up to the nickname. The
mind-set of the Alabama beachfront seemed open to
change, at least around food. Fisher champions
sustainable fisheries—his version of the culinary
good morals practiced by Frank Stitt in
Birmingham. Another local chef, Chris Sherrill,
founded a group to promote consumption of
abundant Gulf species considered “trash fish.” He
explained his idea over tacos made from bluewing
searobin, an ugly big-headed slimeball that tasted
great with salsa and kudzu-lime crema. Likewise, a
new generation of oyster farmers, producers like
Lew Childress of Shellbank Selects, raise small,
sculpted oysters that bring a premium over typical
Gulf oysters grown out to the size of a tourist’s
sweaty palm.
Credit the oil spill and oldsters. The Deepwater
Horizon disaster initially led to a ruinous
moratorium on Gulf seafood sales, but a
multibillion-dollar restitution fund has since
helped Alabama’s shore communities rebuild.
Affluent retirees arrived here like horseshoe crabs
on the spring tide, and snowbirds now flock to the
upscale eateries.
“Disaster won’t create your change,” explained
one longtime resident the next day over lunch, “but
it will accelerate your rate of change. We’ve seen that
after each storm, and we’ve seen it after the oil spill.”
The group at the table, which included the
mayors of Gulf Shores and Orange Beach, wanted
to talk about shiny new ideas: the eco-lodge at Gulf
Shore Park and programs to protect endangered
sea turtles. What I brought up was, perhaps, a
nuisance. I asked what they thought about the
region’s reputation as the Redneck Riviera. People
waved hands as if shooing flies at a church supper.
The consensus was that stereotypes linger among
people who haven’t actually been to Alabama. The
cure for ignorance is travel.
“If we get ’em here, we’ll change their minds,”
said the longtime resident with determined
optimism. “You rarely hear someone say they’re
gonna retire and move up north.”

An Alabama Road Trip

Spend four to five days wending your way through the state, from Muscle Shoals to the Gulf Coast.

GETTING THERE food at the Highlands Bar &

To replicate this road trip,
fly into Huntsville—it’s
reachable through hubs like
Atlanta, Chicago and Dallas-
Fort Worth—then drive an
hour west to Muscle Shoals.
FLORENCE &
MUSCLE SHOALS
The 10-suite GunRunner
(gunrunnerhotel.com; doubles
from US$139) celebrates the
area’s creative heritage. Visit
the Factory (alabamachanin.
com) for an unbeatable brunch
and locally made housewares,
FAME Studios (famestudios.
com; tours US$10) for a
glimpse of music history, and
Odette (odettealabama.com;
mains US$12–$29) for dinner.
While in the area, see Te-lah-
nay’s Wall (ifthelegendsfade.
com), a large-scale work
memorializing a Yuchi
woman’s return after her
forced removal from the state.
BIRMINGHAM
The Grand Bohemian Hotel
(kesslercollection.com;
doubles from US$299), in the
suburb of Mountain Brook,
lives up to its name, with
jewel-tone furnishings and
a gallery. Get great Southern
Grill (highlandsbarandgrill.
com; mains US$24–$44) and
Saw’s BBQ (sawsbbq.com;
mains US$7–$10). The U.S.
Civil Rights Trail
(civilrightstrail.com) has a list
of notable sights in town.
MONTGOMERY &
THE BLACK BELT
In Montgomery, it’s vital
to experience the National
Memorial for Peace and
Justice (museumand
memorial.eji.org) and the Civil
Rights Memorial (splcenter.
org). In the Black Belt, sign up
for a biscuit workshop with
Scott Peacock (chefscott
peacock.com), in Marion, and
visit the Gee’s Bend
Welcome Center in Boykin
(County Rd. 29;
1-334/573-0020)
THE GULF COAST
White-sand beaches are the
main draw, but while you’re
there, sample the seafood at
Fisher’s (fishersobm.com;
mains US$24–$38) and check
in to the eco-minded Lodge at
Gulf State Park (lodgeatgulf
statepark.com; doubles from
US$294) to immerse yourself
in the area’s natural beauty.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 105

 wish you were here

A monk at Punakha Dzong,

one of Bhutan’s most majestic
fortresses, is a study in
solitude. At the confluence of
the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu—the father and mother rivers—the
dzong is central to the nation’s history, formerly as the seat of
government and today the winter home of Bhutan’s main Buddhist
monk body. Rebuilt several times over the centuries, always without
a single nail, it’s not uncommon to hear the baritone echo of monks
chanting from the assembly hall. — SHINSUKE MATSUK AWA

106 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 HOSPITALITY
MORE THAN JUST A WORD
True hospitality comes from the hea.
From a genuine desire to make sure our guests always feel totally at home.
 S P E C I A L AC C OR E DI T IO N

SOUTHEAST ASIA JUNE 2019

The Maldives
FROM RAFFLES TO
FAIRMONT TO MERCURE

MGALLERY: THE
STYLISH BRAND
IN VIETNAM

A DOZEN TASTES
OF AUSTRALIA

REDISCOVER BANGKOK
AND PHUKET WITH ACCOR
LEGENDARY ICON
MEETS
MODERN LUXURY

The train that became a legend, the Orient Express

remains a symbol of luxury travel and timeless
ref inement 135 years after its maiden journey.
Its multicultural heritage is now transported to
a collection of Orient Express hotels, inviting
travellers on a captivating journey to elsewhere.
This new journey begins in Bangkok.
World’s First Orient Express Hotel
BR ANDS

Orient Express
Mahanakorn
Bangkok, Thailand.

Orient
Express
LUXURY TRAVEL DEFINED
A “Journey to Elsewhere” and “A
Refined Door to the Unexpected” for
more than 135 years, Orient Express
remains the symbol of luxury travel
and timeless refinement. The
multicultural heritage of this
legendary trains is now transported
to a collection of Orient Express
hotels, taking travellers on a
captivating journey to elsewhere.

SPLENDOUR ON THE RAILS Rare

know-how and noble materials echo
the original train’s splendour,
creating a permanent experience
marked by emotion and wanderlust.
Transported by this special sense of
style and the promise of radical
change from the everyday, Orient
Express beckons you to discover
another way of travelling, living and
seeing the world: a culture.

SOME OF OUR FINEST:

The first Orient Express Hotel,
Orient Express Mahanakorn
Bangkok, set to open in Thailand
late 2019.

4 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 INTRO

ELCOME TO THIS SPECIAL EDITION OF Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

magazine, devoted to some of the best hotels in Asia Pacific. From the
sparkling sands of Sydney to the aquamarine waters of the Maldives,
from the colourful markets of Bangkok to the gilded pagodas of
Myanmar, Accor has a hotel or resort for every mood.
With more than 1,100 hotels and resorts across the region, we have put together this collection
of hotels and destinations to inspire your next adventure, whether you seek cultural immersion,
romance, family time or a gourmet getaway.
In the Maldives, we introduce you to five gorgeous resorts, from the family-friendly Mercure
Maldives Kooddoo to the ultra-luxe Raffles Maldives Meradhoo, which has only 38 villas for the
ultimate seclusion.
In Australia, you can soak in a luxurious tub at the Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour,
overlooking the twinkling lights of the city, or visit picturesque vineyards for the ultimate foodie
escape at Mitchelton Winery, Hotel & Day Spa, MGallery; Mount Lofty House, MGallery; or
Novotel Barossa Valley. Further north, the tropical delights of Queensland are yours to explore at
Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort & Spa or Pullman Palm Cove Sea Temple Resort & Spa.
Phu Quoc is one of the hottest resort destinations in Vietnam and we invite you into four
resorts on this palm-fringed island of pearl farms, temples, waterfalls and lush jungle. High in
the hills of Sapa, Bill Bensley has created a French Indochine fantasy at Hotel de la Coupole,
blending high-fashion glamour with colourful hill tribe influences. Equally bold, the new SO/
Auckland was created in collaboration with renowned Kiwi fashion label World and brings a new
sense of playfulness to the city.
We also take you inside the Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta,
MGallery, a 1918 heritage hotel, which provides an elegant taste of a
bygone era. Finally, we provide a sneak preview of Raffles
Singapore, which is set to reopen its doors in August. This historic,
iconic hotel has been welcoming travellers for over 130 years and
has been undergoing a careful restoration, which will bring the
hotel firmly into the next century while retaining its heritage
charm. Its relaunch will restore the hotel to its rightful place at the
epicenter of Singapore’s social scene.
We look forward to welcoming you soon.

Michael Issenberg,
Chairman & CEO Accor Asia Pacific

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 5

BR ANDS
Raffles Hotel
Le Royal,
Cambodia
Raffles
RAFFLES BUTLER SERVICE
Raffles Butlers are the living
embodiment of Raffles’ heritage of
bespoke service. They take care of
every detail so that our guests have
space to be themselves and the
freedom to discover local culture.
RAFFLES SIGNATURE BARS The
Long Bar is lively, colourful and
joyful. It’s a destination where locals
and tourists meet and socialise,
where conversation flows, where
people go to experience the soul of a
city. The famous Singapore Sling was
invented here in 1915. The Writers
Bar is an oasis of calm and
tranquillity in a Raffles Hotel for
guests in residence. It’s where guests
can relax and unwind.
RAFFLES PATISSERIE A modern
day treasure box of both familiar and
exotic treats. It is a place sought out
by people who appreciate tasteful
‘treasures’. The experience and sweet
6 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
pastries are like gems, discovered,
enjoyed and cherished.
RAFFLES SPA The lotus flower is
the central inspiration for Raffles
Spa’s philosophy. At Raffles Spa , a
balance between strength and
relaxation is the key to a feeling of
inner tranquillity and rejuvenation.
RAFFLES GALA EVENT With each
Raffles property being a centrepiece
for social events and elegant
celebrations, the hotels, host the
biggest celebrations and most
sophisticated events.
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
Raffles Singapore, Raffles Grand
Hotel D'Angkor, Cambodia;
Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Cambodia;
Raffles Hainan, China; Raffles
Manila Makati, Philippines;
Raffles Jakarta, Indonesia
Raffles
Singapore.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 7

6:16PM
The moment Makati
took your breath away

Cherish a moment in Fairmont Makati, an

urban sanctuary of understated elegance
among Manila’s renowned shopping and
lifestyle centers. As our guest, you’ll be
treated to spacious rooms and suites with
floor-to-ceiling windows for unparalleled
views of the glimmering skyline,
accompanied by an atmosphere of
sophisticated excellence and serenity.

Gateway to your perfect Makati moment.

fairmont.com
4,800 110
Hotels Destinations
BR ANDS

10 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM


Sofitel
CHIC DESIGN Every Sofitel address
is a contemporary work of art by
masterly architects and interior
designers like Didier Gomez, Jean
Nouvel, Pierre-Yves Rochon, Andrée
Putman, Richard Francis-Jones and
many more, elegantly blending
French and local aesthetics.
ARTS & CULTURE Embracing
French art de vivre, Sofitel hotels
celebrate their continental roots
while honouring and showcasing the
finest local customs and traditions.
Sofitel hotels blend local and
international artistic expression to
create cultural journeys designed to
both delight and inform.
Sofitel Bali Nusa AUTHENTIC & LIVELY F&B Sofitel
Dua Beach chefs create fusion dining enriched
Resort, Indonesia.
and enhanced by each destination’s
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019
Sofitel Sydney
Darling Harbour,
Australia.
unique aromas, textures, flavours
and secrets.
INDULGENT WELLNESS Sofitel
hotels afford a wealth of
opportunities for relaxation,
rejuvenation, health and well-being.
The Sofitel MyBed™ ushers in
luxurious relaxation and comfort.
Sofitel Spa proposes a collection of
pampering beauty treatments and
soothing therapies and Sofitel Fitness
offers a range of personalized
exercise programs and a range of
cutting-edge gym equipment.
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
Sofitel Singapore City Centre,
Singapore; Sofitel Singapore
Sentosa Resort & Spa, Singapore;
Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour,
Australia; Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua
Beach Resort, Indonesia; Sofitel
Guangzhou Sunrich, China.
11
 CONTENTS

June features

52
Paradise Awaits
There are two sides to
every seashell in the
Maldives: uncovering
something for every
type of traveller.

64
Two Sides of
Thailand Bangkok
and Phuket are
opposites, but do
share an ongoing
ability to evolve and
constantly surprise.

74
The Kiwi Connection
Two addresses offer
stylish stays, with a
74 94 distinct touch of their
locale combined with
81 52
Kiwi hospitality.

81
On the Menu Down
Under You’ll only get
a true taste of
Australia when
drinking and dining.

88
The Next Beach
Thing These days Phu
TO P R I G H T : BA R C R O F T M E D I A / C O N T R I B U TO R / G E T T Y I M AG ES

Quoc really is entering

the mainstream—at
its own pace.

94
Magical Myanmar
Discovering the land
of the golden pagoda
is a step back to
another era in Asia.

ON THE COVER
High above the azure waters
surrounding the Fairmont
Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi. TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 13
CONTENTS
Accor Brands From ultra-
luxury to affordable comfort,
Accor has the perfect brand
portfolio to help guide you to the
perfect accommodation choice.
16 Up on the Roof Bangkok has
more than its fair share of
enticing rooftop bars, you just
have to know where to look,
writes Joe Cummings, who lives
to tell a tale high above the city
streets.
16
14 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
24 Around the World on a Plate
If you’re looking to fully
appreciate Indonesia, then
search no further than a
handful of Accor hotels that
offer some of the finest
local dishes you will ever taste.
28 Design Your Memories Look
forward to timeless elegance, a
stylish spirit and charming
vestiges of Vietnam’s history
when you stay at Accor’s
MGallery Hotel Collection.
28
34 Amazing Plates Gathering
some of the world’s top chefs in
Bangkok, and advancing
gastronomie ideals, Sofitel’s SO
Amazing Chefs is a chance to
try a multitude of Michelin-
starred cooking all in one
setting.
42 Your Rewards Accor’s
extensive loyalty program,
MyResorts, offers something
for everyone at each of its
locations around Asia. And
you’ll be pleasantly surprised at
exactly what that means for
your next vacation.
34 42
UNCORK
a sparkling
EVENING

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discover your new favourite at Sydney’s home of Champagne.
See you for Champagne Hour! Sunday to Thursday 5pm - 7pm
CHAMPAGNEBARSYDNEY.COM
SOFITEL SYDNEY DARLING HARBOUR, 12 DARLING DRIVE, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA
ROOFTOP BARS

Up On
The Roof
Bangkok has more than its fair share of
enticing rooftop bars, you just have to
know where to look, writes Joe
Cummings, who lives to tell a tale high
above the city streets.

A night out at
RedSquare
Rooftop Bar.

16 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

GREAT CIT YSCAPES deserve great rooftop bars,
and Bangkok is richly endowed with both.
With an abundance of glittering skyscrapers—
nearly a hundred taller than 150 meters—
brightly lit roadways, a network of narrow
canals, and the wide, curving Chao Phraya
River, the tropical city offers unparalleled
views to those who can find a comfortable
perch. Cocktail hedonism combined with
elevated views seems like a simple formula,
but with typical French élan, Accor has honed
rooftop hosting to a fine art, as I found out
recently on a two-night tour of six of their
finest local skyborne venues.
Night one begins at Belga Rooftop Bar &
Brasserie, ensconced on the 32nd floor of Art
Deco-inspired Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit.
Leaving traffic-choked Sukhumvit far below,
I arrive just in time to catch the last rays of
the sun bouncing off the surrounding
cityscape. A subtle breeze wafts across the
curving outdoor terrace as I sit down to a flight
of draft Belgian brews, drawn from the nine
different Belgian beers on tap (plus another 30
by the bottle) at Belga. My favorite tonight is
Maredsous Blonde, a golden beer with a clean
bouquet that’s very refreshing at the end of a
long, hot Bangkok day.
This being the only Belgian restaurant in
the city, I feel duty bound to sample moules
frites, Belgium’s iconic bucket of steamed
mussels accompanied by pommes frites. We
choose the house signature moules, steamed
with Hoegaarden, an unfiltered beer whose Belga terrace.
ABOVE: Moules
flavors of coriander and citrus peel mate
Mariniere, Belga.
perfectly with fresh mussels. As for the fries,
they live up to Belgian legend, especially when
dipped into mayonnaise mixed fresh at the
table by the brasserie’s Maître Mayonnaise.
Two beers later, and I’m digging into a crisp
buckwheat waffle topped with house-cured
salmon, garden salad and lemon-dill dressing,
a brilliant re-interpretation of the Belgian
waffle tradition. The food and beer at Belga
are so good that you might not even notice the
stupendous views, and instead find yourself
wandering inside to admire the open kitchen
and copper beer taps.
Moving from Brussels to Moscow, my next
stop is RedSquare Rooftop Bar at the brand-
new Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 4. Perched
on the 25th floor, the outdoor terrace is flanked
by a sleek swimming pool to one side and a
bustling semi-indoor bar on the other. Cozy
nooks with red-upholstered barrel chairs
look out onto city views on both sides of the

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 17

ROOFTOP BARS

building. I sit at a table that looks towards

All Seasons Place and an assortment of other
distinguished edifices along Withayu Road’s
embassy row.
As the name might suggest, RedSquare
is dedicated to vodka. Mixologists here work
with more than 35 unique vodka labels from
all over the world, including Burnett’s, Crystal
Head, Stilltheone, Skyy, Ciroc, Finlandia,
Belvedere, Artic, and Chase, to name a few. I
continue my rooftop cocktail evening with a
Mojito Skyy, the house signature concoction of
US-made Skyy Vodka and delicate homemade
syrups of mint, cucumber, and strawberry,
beautifully presented with a strip of thinly
sliced cucumber placed against the inside
curve of the glass. Another drink that catches
my eye is the intriguingly named Angel Kenya,
containing vodka, homemade black tea, guava
juice, and yaa waan (Stevia or candyleaf). I
reckon next time I decide to rise above the City
of Angels, I’ll be ordering one of these.
The Parch, rum with Bar bites at RedSquare present a
lime, mint and cosmopolitan mix of textures and flavours,
hazelnut. ABOVE: including Fresh Burrata, Wild Mushroom
The View Rooftop
Soup, Cold Cut Selection (Parma ham, coppata,
Bar at night.
serrano ham, salami), and my odds-on
favourite, Spiced Prawn Burgers, all served on
gleaming white plates that contrast well with
the red fabrics.
By this point I’m beginning to lose count of
how many drinks I’ve had, but I’m feeling the
love and ready for the final stop of the evening.
Right in the heart of bustling Pratunam,
tucked check-and-jowl behind world-famous
Platinum Fashion Mall, Novotel Bangkok
Platinum might seem like an unlikely location
for a rooftop bar. In fact, I’d wager that most
people thronging the streets below, walking to
and from CentralWorld and other malls in one
of Asia’s most concentrated shopping districts,
have no idea that that nine floors above them
sits View Rooftop Bar. 
It feels like a flash-yet-comfy pool bar you
might stumble on at a South Beach hotel in
Miami, replete with beanbag chairs, an infinity
pool, and brick walls painted with vibrant
street art. Curated audio by DJ/producer
Bradley Hart enhances the effect. Meanwhile,
the stunning scene across Rajprasong’s glitter
and pomp is softened by a bird’s eye look at
intensely green Pathumwananuruk Park just
below the hotel.
Here I start with Purple Haze, a striking
presentation served under bell glass to capture
the fragrant smoke of thian op, Thailand’s >>

18 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

ROOFTOP BARS

traditional culinary candle. The blend of

The entrance frankincense and other spices lend an exotic
to Sky on 20. perfume to the signature blend of butterfly pea
BELOW: Winter
flower-infused vodka, vermouth, lime,
is coming at
Sky on 20. lemongrass elderflower, and lavender.
Our table shares a delicious Burger Slider
Trio made with pulled pork, fried chicken,
and beef, along with Tempura Battered Purple
Potato Fries dusted with View’s signature
chili salt. This is a rooftop bar that goes all
out to wow its guests with originality and
flair, I decide as I dip into my second drink,
The Parch, a magical concoction of Captain
Morgan Dark Rum, lime, mint, and hazelnut,
which is topped with a sweet and savory slab of
caramelized pineapple.
After a day’s recovery, I launch into night
two at Sky on 20, slotted neatly into the 26th
floor of Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20. The
extensive drinking menu boasts fizzy cocktails
that use prosecco as a base, such as Red Hot
Lover (gin, strawberry, vanilla, and prosecco),
but I go for the spirit-forward section dubbed
GTFO, and bounce into an Apple Q, an
aromatic, full-bodied concoction of Botanist
gin, lime, apple, homemade BBQ syrup, and
fresh rosemary.
Sky on 20’s leafy garden-like terrace offers
an impressive angle on aerial Bangkok that
takes in both Sirikit Lake and Benjasiri Park.
While drinking and gawking, I enjoy light,
satisfying plates of Gouda Cube Cheese with
Mustard and Pepper and Fried Zucchinis with
Hummus Dip.
A barfly’s work is never done, so before I can
say “I’ll have another,” we’ve flitted across
town to the 29th floor of SO/ Bangkok. Here Hi
So Rooftop Bar provides an unparalleled view
of Lumpini Park, Bangkok’s oldest public green
space. Comfortably wedged into a semi-open-
air triangle just outside the hotel’s esteemed
Park Society restaurant, this bar features
separate guest cabanas, a dedicated DJ booth
(in full swing every night of the week), and a
mezzanine one floor above for those who want
to go that bit higher. From there, a hidden
entry leads to Super Hi-So on the 31st floor, a
secret sky platform for private events and
intimate dates. >>

Sky on 20’s leafy garden-like terrace offers an impressive

angle on aerial Bangkok that takes in both Sirikit Lake and
Benjasiri Park. I’m drinking and gawking
20 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
 MEMORABLE
VERANDA HIGH
RESORT
A HAVEN OF PEACE
IN THE HEART OF THE MOUNTAINS

Far from stress, close to nature: Veranda High Resort Chiang Mai offers modern chic mgallery.com
in a timeless retreat overlooking mountain streams, rice and tea terraces. Be inspired accorhotels.com
by our tailor-made service, and just enjoy being you.

VERANDA HIGH RESORT CHIANG MAI, MGALLERY

022%$1*321*+$1*'21*‡&+,$1*0$,‡7+$,/$1'
TEL.: 

M G A L L E R Y, A C O L L E C T I O N O F M E M O R A B L E H OT E L S : E U R O P E - A F R I C A - M I D D L E E A S T - C A R I B B E A N - A S I A PA C I F I C
ROOFTOP BARS

A recent Hi-So relaunch brings in a

reworked drinks menu created by mixologist
Kishan Rampersad. I leap on the Banana
Whiskey Sour, containing a healthy dose of
bourbon, along with banana liqueur, fresh
lime, bitters, and a dash of sugar syrup. We
order a few bites from the Park Society menu,
which covers a broad international selection of
tapas and Asian small plates like gyoza, satay,
and Thai-style garlic prawns, along with more
hearty comfort food such as BBQ ribs, and fish
and chips.
After hopping a taxi, we’re soon winding
our way skyward to Speakeasy, which
encompasses two floors at the top of Hotel
Muse Bangkok Langsuan, MGallery.
Matching the early 20th-century concept
and décor of the hotel, Speakeasy evokes
Prohibition-era chic, with lots of wood
paneling, antique art, and servers dressed in
period-inspired clothing. The lower of the two
floors boasts an old-fashioned belly-up bar and
a long, roofed terrace for admiring the views
across Soi Lang Suan. Stairs lead a floor up to
the rooftop bar proper, which is spacious and
affords views from virtually all four sides of
Bacon old the hotel. Three large private domes designed
fashioned, at in classic Beaux Arts style are available for
Speakeasy. private parties by reservation.
ABOVE: Studio In a nicely dimmed corner of the terrace,
Session, Hi So
Rooftop bar.
we sample the bespoke creations of Thai
barman Lersak Jamkadsin. With more than
30 brands on hand, gin is the house specialty,
and customers are encouraged to create their
own G&T by selecting their particular label
of choice along with one of several boutique
tonics (including Fentimans, Fever Tree, and
Thomas Henry) and finally a botanical garnish
such as coriander, cloves, cinnamon, lemon
peel, or rosemary.
Anyone who appreciates lighter cocktails
should have a look at the Inspired by Her
section of the drinks menu, which lists such
delicately balanced recipes as Jasmine (vodka,
pineapple juice, passionfruit, lime juice,
Midori, and jasmine syrup) and Butterfly
(gin, strawberry jam, lime juice, rosemary,
cucumber, tonic, and soda). I go in the opposite
direction to find my favorite cocktail of the
rooftop journey, a Bacon Old-Fashioned in
which bourbon saddles up with dehydrated
orange, vermouth, and bitters, and is
garnished with a crispy, bourbon-infused
strip of bacon. I can just about manage a cigar
downstairs at the Blind Pig Cigar Lounge before
heading home for a much-deserved rest.

22 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

O N T H E P L AT E
World of Fairmont
Afternoon Tea.
Around the World
on a Plate
If you’re looking to fully appreciate Indonesia, then search
no further than a handful of Accor hotels that offer some
of the finest local dishes you will ever taste.
WHEN IN JAK ARTA, the place to see and be seen is the Peacock
Lounge at the Fairmont Jakarta. Popular with the social-media set,
the lounge’s Signature Afternoon Tea set brings the taste of treats
from various Fairmont hotels around the world to one setting,
whether it’s cheesecake from The Plaza New York or a Lychee
Mousse Tart from the Fairmont Peace Hotel Shanghai.
Also in the Indonesian capital, the Mercure Jakarta Pantai Indah
Kapuk is renowned for its NSNTR Restaurant & Bar. The name
derives from the acronym for archipelago, but the real mouthful is
a carefully selected menu that includes the spices, herbs and exotic
fruits of this vast island nation. Count Durian Pancake and Durian
Crème Brulee among the signature dishes here.
24 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Durian Pancake at
Mercure Jakarta
Pantai Indah Kapuk.
Nasi Tutug
Oncom, Grand
Mercure
Bandung
Setiabudi.
At the Grand Mercure Bandung Setiabudi,
only the freshest farm-to-table ingredients are
used, with the all-day dining Hardy’s offering
Nasi Tutug Oncom—a mix of soybean paste
with steamed rice—served alongside dishes
such as fried tempeh and tofu, fried chicken
and spicy sambal. For those with a sweet tooth,
don’t miss the grilled cassava with brown sugar
dipped in shredded coconut.
Originally built in 1918 are a private estate,
the Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta comes with many
traditions that have grown over the years,
though today it is part of the luxury MGallery
Collection. As such, its history-laden hallways
are adorned with some of the finest artworks
found in the country. That said, do not miss out
on the Chef’s Table, which celebrates Javanese
dishes in a private room. Gudeg, a dish made
from jackfruit, is served with condiments such
as egg, chicken and tofu. Bakpia 1918—a mix
of green beans, cashew nuts wheat, butter,
sugar and salt—has become a signature dish of
Yogyakarta, a memorable taste of the city that
underlines the friendliness of the Javanese.
BR ANDS

Novotel Bangkok
Sukhumvit 20,
Thailand.

26 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM


Novotel
Quality time is about making
everyday moments matter.
Everything about Novotel has been
thought through to enhance well-
being, life-balance and enjoyment.
From intuitive and modern design, to
rewarding programs and
experiences—everyone can take time
to relax and rejuvenate, or make time
to connect with family and friends.
LIVELY LOBBY WITH A GOURMET
BAR An informal, friendly space
where you can enjoy trendy drinks
and savour simple, delicious balanced
meals.
FAMILY & NOVOTEL A signature
offer from each Novotel for each
family at every step of their stay,
including kids welcome gifts, play
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019
Novotel Brisbane
South Bank,
Australia.
area, and free breakfast for kids
under sixteen.
INBALANCE AT NOVOTEL Three
offers of wellness with InBalance
Fitness, InBalance Wellness (pool,
sauna, steam room) and InBalance
Spa Wellness and Treatment Center.
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20,
Thailand; Novotel Bangkok
Sukhumvit 4, Thailand; Novotel
Brisbane South Bank, Australia
27
DESIGN

Design Your Memories

 At Hôtel de la
Coupole,
MGallery mixing
classical comfort
and Indochine
charm.

Look forward to timeless elegance, a stylish spirit and charming vestiges of Vietnam’s
history when you stay at Accor’s MGallery Hotel Collection. BY GR ACE MA

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 29

DESIGN

R AISING THE CURTAINS to the allure of historic

Hanoi, Hotel de l’Opera Hanoi, MGallery echoes
the majesty of the nearby century-old Hanoi
Opera House with its striking colours, lush
jewel-toned fabrics and elegant French décor.
Feel like a celebrity in this boutique beauty that
exudes colonial splendor and contemporary
grandeur as you spend restful nights in cozy
luxurious rooms decked in wooden flooring
and vibrant Asian textiles and silks, and
equipped with pampering amenities. Actually,
you’ll feel like you’re in a different era, one
with all the mod cons. After a day of exploring
the city’s serene lakes and historic streets,
wind down with hearty meals of classic
Vietnamese specialties at Satine Restaurant or
Mediterranean-style à la carte and buffet
dining at Café Lautrec, then continue dinner
conversations at Parisian-style lounge La Fée
Verte, which has a detailed drinks list of aged
spirits, creative cocktails and imported wines.
There’s also an indoor swimming pool with an
open-air terrace, a day spa, gym and sauna.

30 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM


Each and every MGallery aims to evoke a
sentiment, to tell a story as captivating and as
unique to its location as the Hanoi tale.
Whether it’s bespoke design or wellbeing
dedicated to women, MGallery guests are
enriched simply by staying at one of the 90
boutique properties around the world.
Beyond Hanoi, MGallery (mgallery.com) has
left its mark around Vietnam. It’s the little
details that dazzle in Hotel Royal Hoi An,
MGallery. Inspired by the love story between a
Japanese merchant and a Vietnamese princess,
the hotel’s majestic architecture plays out the
marriage between Indochine-inspired design
and delicate Japanese touches. Historical charm
flows through the modern well-appointed
rooms, several of which have balconies with
city or river views. Hotel Royal Hoi An’s
location besides the serene Thu Bon River offers
the perfect base to explore places of interest
such as the city’s unesco World Heritage-
designated Old Quarter, the 18th-century
Japanese Covered Bridge and Tan Ky House.
Relaxing at the hotel is pretty cool too: swim in
the Art Nouveau outdoor pool; be pampered at
The Woosah Spa; enjoy a cocktail with
spectacular views from the city’s highest
rooftop bar The Deck Hoi An, where a DJ isn’
out of the norm; or tuck into delicious fare at
The Attic, open kitchen Faifo Café, or at Hoi
An’s first high-end Japanese dining venue,
Wakaku Restaurant.
Discerning business travellers and leisure-
seekers will revel in the glamorous romance of
multi-award winning Hôtel des Arts Saigon,
MGallery, where modern comfort goes hand in
hand with classical French Indochine charm.
Rooms are imbued with a timeless chic, where
wooden flooring and bespoke furniture by
Vietnamese artisans play off muted fabrics
and marble bathroom to create a warm and
inviting ambience. Memorable art-filled
dining experiences abound here too. The
elegant Café Des Beaux-arts is a fashionable
hangout for coffee or cocktails surrounded by
stunning artworks. Modern Vietnamese and
European cuisine is served at Saigon Kitchen,
an all-day, open kitchen restaurant inspired by
Asian street food, while the Social Club offers
stunning skyline views and exquisite
European dishes prepared with the freshest
seasonal ingredients. In line with the
MGallery “Inspired by Her” philosophy, find
everything from female-inspired artwork to
small touches that make female guests more
welcome. But don’t think for a minute that this
FROM TOP: The Art is all heritage or a step back into the past. The
Nouveau outdoor hotel’s showcase is its sexy, rooftop saltwater
pool beckons at
infinity pool that screams see and be seen.
Hotel Royal Hoi An,
MGallery; solitude Other chill-out options include a wellness spa
at Le Spa, La and a fitness center.
Veranda Resort Comfort and indulgence reign at 1920s
Phu Quoc, French colonial-style La Veranda Resort Phu
MGallery.
OPPOSITE FROM
Quoc, MGallery, a stylish tribute to its founder
TOP: Hôtel des Arts Madame Catherine’s poignant family
Saigon, MGallery; connection to the idyllic island. The seaside
Hotel de l’Opera mansion’s well-appointed rooms exude classic
Hanoi, MGallery.
and elegant Vietnamese grace with intricate
details of dark mahogany wood and hand-
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 31
DESIGN
painted mosaic tiles complementing
pampering four-poster beds and spacious
private verandas. Meals come with healthy
backyard organic ingredients, whether it’s
gourmet French and Vietnamese fine dining at
The Peppertree or Mediterranean and Western
favourites and themed buffets at all-day al
fresco diner Le Jardin, while garden-inspired
cocktails and a glass of estate wine are best
savoured with the brilliant sunset views from
Le Bar. Island discovery tours await intrepid
adventurers who can choose to delve into Phu
Quoc’s rich history and culture, go squid
fishing on a traditional fishing boat or explore
the Cua Can River in a kayak. Wellness-seekers
can enjoy yoga by the sea or soothing artisanal
organic oils and body treatments at Le Spa.
Is a resort simply that if it’s also a
pilgrimage site or in fact an entire village? The
question will burn in the back of your mind
once you find yourself on a spiritual journey
back in time at Legacy Yen Tu, MGallery, a
luxury wellness sanctuary perched 1,068
meters above the sea on Yen Tu Mountain.
This is the setting where Vietnam’s
13th-century King Tran Nhan Tong
established Truc Lam Yen Zen Buddhism. The
Bill Bensley-designed resort is near the
32 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
unesco World Heritage site of Ha Long Bay,
and features handcrafted materials and
architecture built with traditional
construction methods, blending heritage and
spirituality with modern comfort. In fact,
using the same styles as in the 13th century,
this MGallery is designed to age: return in five
years and it will have taken on an older,
durable sheen. Rooms come with an outdoor
patio living area and signature features such
as wooden inked slabs traditionally used for
calligraphy. Vegetarian dishes takes the
spotlight in rustic Tho Quang where authentic
Vietnamese cuisine is available, while Thien
Tra Lobby Bar is the best place to enjoy
sundowners with picturesque mountain
views. Nature, wellness and spiritual-themed
excursions can also be enjoyed in the nearby
Hanh Huong Yen Tu village and the hotel’s Tue
Tinh Am Wellness center with meditation,
yoga and Truc Lam Zen sessions.
Hôtel de la Coupole, MGallery is another Bill
Bensley masterpiece that creatively blends local
culture, a rich French history and Sapa’s
modern ambiance into one magnificent
landmark—think of it as haute couture
meeting hill-tribe style. Each room looks out to
splendid views of the Sapa valley and rice
FROM TOP: At the fields, while the interiors are stamped with
Hôtel de la Bensley’s signature luxury style unfolding in
Coupole, MGallery; rich textures, plush colourful fabrics, gilded
venturing back in
time at Legacy Yen flourishes and bathrooms with checkered-tile
Tu, MGallery, a flooring. This may be the 21st-century but these
luxe wellness comfortable touches of the past are what bring
retreat. modern Vietnam to life.
CHEFS
Amazing Plates
Gathering some of the world’s top chefs in Bangkok, and advancing gastronomie ideals, Sofitel’s SO Amazing
Chefs is a chance to try a multitude of Michelin-starred cooking all in one setting. BY ELOISE BASUKI
PL AYING WITH CHOCOL ATE is like playing with fire—
both should not be left unsupervised. Luckily, my cocoa
playtime is under the guidance of one of the world’s best:
Stéphane Bonnat, a fourth-generation French
chocolatier from Bonnat—the oldest chocolate
manufacturer in the world. As part of Sofitel’s 2018 SO
Amazing Chefs event, Bonnat is here at SO/ Bangkok’s
Chocolab to give our small group a crash course on all
things to do with cocoa. Armed with raw cacao beans,
bags of his single-origin dark chocolate and the lab’s
kitchen tools, Bonnat imparts on us his dessert wisdom:
the best ratio for a velvety smooth ganache, how to
decorate bonbons like a pro, and that DIY chocolate ice
cream isn’t as hard as you’d think. These sugar-loaded
two hours are just a taste of what is to come at this year’s
SO Amazing Chefs event, where Michelin-starred
34 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
culinary maestros start fires of their own across
Bangkok with a 10-day feasting your stomach may only
just survive.
BEYOND THE THAI CAPITAL, each Sofitel adheres to
“Gastronomie Francaise,” celebrating cooking traditions
and practices by bringing them to life through gourmet
experiences developed in quaint villages, storied
vineyards and famed boulangeries. This ideal is centred
on four keys to a French menu: bread; pastries; wine;
and cheese and charcuterie. Pure-butter croissants by
famed baker Bridor; the input of celebrated baguette
maker Frederic Lalos; and at least one organic bread or
pastry option all underscore Sofitel’s commitment to
quality. Each hotel offers its own signature bread, while
pastries often incorporate local flavours.
 It shouldn’t come as a surprise that Sofitel prides
itself on its wine menu—both by the glass and the
bottle—with celebrated French labels sharing the
spotlight alongside bottles from the region and the rest
of the world. Complementing these pours is the cheese
buffet or trolley that visits every corner of France, while
never overlooking more local offerings. Always keep an
eye out for wine-and-cheese-themed events at Sofitel as
well, whether it’s Beajoulais Nouveau Day or a cheese-
pairing class. Another key element of the French
culinary tradition at Sofitel is the signature Apero Chic:
small offerings of terrines, galantines and premium
charcuterie, an inspired charcuterie board.
A prime example of this approach is at the Metropole
Hanoi’s revamped angelina cocktail bar. The elegant bar
seats up to 120 guests, while a separate whisky lounge
tucked behind a charcoal curtain features velvet
wingbacked chairs and a roaring fireplace, almost a
setting out of a different era. The second level offers an
intimate dining space with a seasonal menu that
includes lobster rolls with caviar, Welsh lamb pie and
Wagyu beef burgers topped with black truffles.
Established but continually ground-breaking is Spiral
at the Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila. Known for
innovation, the restaurant is famed for its 21 ateliers—
literally, special workshops where diners witness menus
come alive before their eyes. Think Asian noodles,
Peking duck, Korean, Filipino and a French patisserie
and you start to grasp the idea. Each atelier reflects the
authenticity and warmth both of an Asian hawker stall
or a French market. The setting alone is as breathtaking
as the menus, starting with the grandeur of a spiral
staircase and three-storey high, floor-to-ceiling
windows overlooking Manila Bay.
THIS YEAR MARKS the eighth edition of So Amazing
Chefs, taking place September 15–22 in Bangkok. With
eight Michelin chefs and eight varied activities, the event
promises to please every palate. Star chefs from Japan,
France, Spain Holland, Germany and the U.S. will be in
the kitchens. Add into this mix, masters when it comes
to cheese, oysters, boulangerie and
dim sum, not to mention an Iron Chef
winner from Thailand, and every FROM TOP LEFT:
tastebud is catered for. Over the Hard at work at
the Chocolab; the
course of two days is the SO Amazing cheese selection
Chef Competition Culinary at Spiral’s
Showdown, pitting teams of star chefs L’Epicerie.
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 35
CHEFS

against each other in a fun event where the public can

admire their cooking skills up close and personal.
But where this annual gastronomic get together
really shines is in its SO Amazing Chefs Dinners, seven
evenings of wine-matched, multi-course banquets
cooked up by a star-studded line-up of chefs. Before the
eight courses begin, we start with drinks at the Sofitel’s
Hi-SO rooftop bar, looking out at the blushing sunset
with a matching rose and lychee martini. Moving inside
to Park Society, the restaurant’s vast views of the
twinkling Bangkok skyline make a fitting arena for the
culinary carnival to come. Our first plate, simply called
“Just Carrot” sets the standard. Two-Michelin-starred,
Hua Hin-based, Scottish chef James Noble has
transformed the humble veg into a variety of textures
from a mousse to a bread to an Indian-style deep-fried
carrot bhaji.
Over the next seven courses, we’re served meals of
art: smoked veal by two-starred French chef Thierry
Drapeau comes surrounded by a cubist plating of potato
gnocchi, spinach puree and truffle shavings; while
Bastien Falkenroth’s king salmon swims in tangy ponzu
and juicy pearls of coconut tapioca. We finish off with a
cheese-plate by the Marchand brothers, along with
Spanish chef María José San Román’s hojiblanca olive-oil
ice cream. With each dish one-upping
the next, it’s almost too hard to call
FROM TOP: Wagyu
favorites, but my vote goes with dessert. at angelina; SO
The olive-oil ice cream is lush and rich Amazing Chefs
despite being cream-free, and >> food in disguise .

36 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 San Roman gets extra points for swinging by each table
to feed us spoons of her spicy, herbaceous liquid gold.
Of course, SO Amazing has put on a finale to really
prove the best cooks of the bunch: the Culinary
Showdown. During this live, open-kitchen cooking
event, four teams of chefs battle it out in front of the
diners. Last year’s winners, the all-French Blue team—
Drapeau, Guy Lassausai, Alexandre Demard, Joffrey
Jacob and Benjamin Ben Sadou—won with their adapted
dishes mirroring Thai street food: mussels in tempura
with liquid nitrogen topped with shrimp and served
with guacamole cream and a som tam gel.
Back in the SO Sofitel Chocolab, I’m considering it a
win that my chocolate ice cream actually resembles ice
cream at all. Despite this being my first-ever time
making the icy treat, Bonnat’s teaching has turned out a
soft and creamy scoop, with delicate bite from his
65-percent dark chocolate. We pour some of our hot,
silky ganache over the frozen dessert. It’s way too
indulgent, but then again, that is what
this festival is all about. sofitel.com;
Mixing things
eight-course SO Amazing Chefs Dinner
up at the
2019 Bt10,000, or Bt12,500 with wine angelina whisky
pairing. lounge.

JAPANESE MENUS AT THE PULLMAN BANGKOK KING POWER

TENSHINO RESTAURANT A chic
and innovative take on Japanese
cuisine, Tenshino serves the
freshest dishes with ingredients
from Japan and France.
Starters include highlights
such as Wagyu beef tartar, served
with caviar and crispy leek nests,
and Hokkaido scallops with
roasted cauliflower.
Flown in daily from Japan is
the freshest sushi and sashimi,
while the oyster menu is direct
from France. Hokkaido sea urchin,
soba with truffles (above) and
Maine lobster are highlights in the
main menu.
Designed as a French
restaurant, one with the Japanese
tradition for natural materials in
mind, Tenshino is divided into five
main sections, each with a
different aesthetic. A five-metre
communal table greets guests as
they enter, while a bar area
features curved booths and
bistro-style marble tables. www.
tenshinobangkok.com
TENKO OMAKASE In Japanese
folklore, Tenko is defined as
“heavenly fox,” which in turn
represents chef Goji Kobayashi,
whose years of culinary experience
have helped turn this into the
premier omakase restaurant in
Bangkok. With more than 10 years
of experience, chef Goji is
considered an ichinin mae, which
means independent chef.
The authentic and original
taste of Japan comes to the fore
here in a cultural dining experience
in a serene setting (above) that
take your taste buds on an
unforgettable journey.
At the heart of this dining
experience is the quality produce,
which reflects Japan's changing
seasons. Ingredients are flown in
from Japan daily. Among these are
Takeshima A4 Wagyu beef,
scallops from Hokkaido and
Kyushu's red sea urchins, all
served on artisanal Japanese
ceramics. www.
pullmanbangkokkingpower.com
Prepare for a new experience
across Asia Pacific
Discover how much you can do and save with
an Accor Plus membership.
accorplus.com
:VÄ[LS:PUNHWVYL:LU[VZH9LZVY[HUK:WH
BR ANDS
Banyan
BANYAN TREE SPA As the first
luxury oriental spa in Asia, Banyan
Tree Spa introduces an exotic blend
Tree
of ancient health and beauty practices
which have been passed down from
generations. High-quality services
are delivered consistently by
graduate therapists trained in
Banyan Tree Spa Academies in
Thailand and Indonesia, making it
the market leader of Asia’s spa
industry.
ROMANCE This signature touch
applies across all Banyan Tree
properties, making each destination
ideal for romantic getaways,
honeymoons, renewal of vows or
destination weddings. From
personalised Intimate Moments,
breath-taking Destination Dining
spots, private In-Villa Dining,
romance is weaved seamlessly with a
touch of rejuvenation, allowing
Banyan Tree couples to fully immerse in quality
Lijiang, China.
time with one another.
40 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Banyan Tree
Phuket, Thailand.
SAFFRON - RESTAURANT The
signature restaurant of Banyan Tree,
Saffron stays true to the classic and
ingenious culinary techniques
passed on for generations across the
Thai Kingdom.
STAY FOR GOOD Banyan Tree
group’s sustainability platform that
encourages guests and associates to
partake in activities that empower
local communities (35,000 meals
provided to community members
since 2014) and embrace
environmental conservation (450,000
trees planted since 2007).
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
Banyan Tree Phuket, Thailand;
Banyan Tree Samui, Thailand;
Banyan Tree Shanghai On The
Bund, China; Banyan Tree Macau,
China

Fairmont
AT THE HEART OF THE
DESTINATION Each Fairmont hotel,
whether historic or new, is
intrinsically linked to the heart of the
destination, playing a central role in
the community as host of the most
notable events.
FAIRMONT GOLD Fairmont Gold
represents our next level of
hospitality: it includes a dedicated
space in many of our hotels, featuring
elevated guest room design and a
fully staffed Fairmont Gold
residents-only lounge.
BR ANDS
Fairmont
Jaipur, India.
MEETINGS & EVENTS Fairmont’s
brand name – according to J.D. Power
– is the most highly regarded
amongst luxury meeting and event
planners. Fairmont hotels can
accommodate midscale and large
events at various price points,
without compromising on luxury.
PARTNERSHIP WITH REEBOK
Fairmont has linked up with Reebok
for fitness apparel and jogging shoes.
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
Fairmont Shanghai Peace Hotel,
China; Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fairmont
Fen Fushi, Maldives; Fairmont Shanghai Peace
Hotel, China.
Jaipur, India; Fairmont Singapore
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 41
L OYA LT Y

Your Rewards
Accor’s extensive loyalty program, MyResorts, offers something for
everyone at each of its locations around Asia. And you’ll be pleasantly
surprised at exactly what that means for your next vacation.

DAY ONE OF YOUR VACATION AND, after

FROM TOP: Drinks in the pool at the Sofitel
Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort; enjoying
some down time in-room at the resort.
traveling all day, you’re perched at Toya Beach
Bar and Grill at the Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua
Beach Resort to catch the sunset. Better still is
that there’s a three-hour window from 3pm to
6pm that includes free cocktails, Heineken or
Bintang beer if you’re enrolled in MyResorts,
the exclusive Le Club AccorHotels benefits
program designed to provide members extra
value that says “thank you for choosing Accor.”
You’ve just discovered that the perks start
before guests even arrive at the hotel or resort,
with all the available extras outlined prior to
check-in. Elite members enjoy personalized
check in at the Lobby Lounge.
For starters, all membership tiers can enjoy
MyGlass, a personalized beverage experience
that guests can enjoy for their entire stay or
even for one day only. Each resort has the
flexibility to customize its drink according to
the locale and the guest profile. MyGlass goes >>

42 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 Fairmont Maldives
Sirru Fen Fushi

Stunning resorts
across Asia Pacific
INCREDIBLE BENEFITS
JUST FOR MEMBERS
Discover more at accorhotels.com/myresorts
L OYA LT Y
well beyond simply enjoying a drink. Think
along the lines of a two-hour wine tasting
session or take part in a cocktail-making class.
When you’re headed off on vacation, it’s a
given that you want to be spoiled. At the Sofitel
Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, there’s even a PIC
(Person In Charge) who you can contact during
your stay until you check out. It’s just a small
thank you for your loyalty.
For Platinum members, the resort offers a
gift of chocolates on arrival and some local
coffee to take home once you depart.
OF COURSE, Accor’s loyalty program is
available at each of its properties and rewards
new members as well as top tier, returning
guests. Better still, there’s an endless number
of perks for everyone from you to your kids.
At Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi
between midday and 5pm, when you're
poolside, enjoy your favourite Margarita—
classic, strawberry, passion fruit or mango—
for US$6. If you're a Platinum member, up to
two Margaritas are free each day as part of
MyGlass. Local and foreign beers are on the
FROM LEFT: Getting pampered at the
Fairmont Yangcheng Lake in China; the
Clearwater Bay Lounge, Raffles Hainan.
44 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
menu at the Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach
Resort as are free-flow cocktails during a
three-hour stretch each afternoon.
At the other end of the age spectrum,
MyKids is a vacationing parent’s dream. For a
flat fee that varies among resorts, daily
activities such as arts programs and meals are
taken care of. Your well-travelled kids can
even enjoy personalized check in that includes
a registration card and key, and their own
welcome drink. An arrival gift and daily treat
are standard, the plan adaptable to every stay.
In Vietnam, that means homemade sweet,
spicy and savoury rice crackers are part of the
always-fun menu, while grilled banana
chocolate cheese and chicken satay are on the
menu at Indonesian resorts. MyKids is also an
opportunity to teach the idea of learning from
the local community and enjoying nature,
with tree planting at the Novotel Bali Benoa
and batik painting at the Pullman Phuket
Arcadia Naithan Beach just two options.
Adults will never feel left out. MyTreat is the
ticket to high tea, or a platter of international
and local desserts sent to your room. >>

SO/
FASHION SIGNATURE A unique
collection of design hotels, each SO/ is
an artistic vision brought to life by a
celebrated name from stylish, vibrant
and expressive world of fashion,
including works of Monsieur
Christian Lacroix, Kenzo Takada and
Karl Lagerfeld.
PLAYFUL ENTERTAINMENT From
tantalizing cocktails at the HI-SO
rooftop bar to pulsating DJ beats and
talk-of-the-town parties, SO/
energizes guests with surprising and
entertaining happenings and social
BR ANDS
SO/ Hua Hin,
Thailand.
experiences that capture the vivacity
and vibe of the locale, the trendiest of
local scenes.
AVANT-GARDE DESIGN Every SO/
address is a creative and
contemporary masterpiece,
embellished with vivid design
elements, textures, colours and
influences of the destination, giving
each hotel a one-of-a-kind personality
and style.
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
SO/ Singapore; SO/ Bangkok,
Thailand; SO/ Hua Hin, Thailand; SO/ Auckland,
New Zealand.
SO/ Auckland, New Zealand
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 45
L OYA LT Y

FROM LEFT: Grand Water Villa Sunset,

Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi; a family
meal at the Fairmont Yangcheng Lake.

MyWellness permits access to fitness, spa Platinum members and includes

and yoga sessions. Exercise programs, gym
gear and even healthy dining and drinking
options all help to revitalize, rejuvenate and
reenergize your vacation. At the Fairmont
Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi, relax with a
15-minute complimentary scalp massage and a
45-minute personalised training session at the
wellness centre.
Going beyond the norm, MyDiscovery lists
sky diving, bungy jumping and watersports
among its many activities, but there’s also
more sedate sightseeing tours and chances to
immerse yourself in the local culture through
conservation projects.
Guided tours by marine biologists are
available daily, and nighttime snorkelling is a
thing. Monkey Island, home to 2,000
macaques, is one tour that also includes a
transoceanic ropeway with breathtaking views
over a local fishing village.
On the very practical side of any stay,
MyConnect is available to Silver, Gold and
complimentary Internet for any number of
devices, while MyExtratime allows guests to
extend their resort experience beyond check-in
and check-out, as early as 8am and as late as
5pm. If a room is not ready, silver, gold and
platinum members can use the executive
lounge until it is. MyUpgrade is available for
gold and platinum members.
MyHost is a complimentary service for gold
and platinum members, aimed at perfecting
their stay. This door-to-door service includes
anything from arranging homemade cocktails
on arrival to escorting guests to their suite
and coordinating all their luggage handling.
Any special requests or needs are taken care
of, spa reservations, dinner plans.
Platinum members can take advantage of
MyGuest, which allows them to extend benefits
to his or her loved one. MyRewards aims to
surprise and delight platinum members
during their stay, via a gift, an experience and
even a little bit more special attention.

46 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 BR ANDS

Hôtel de la
Coupole, MGallery,
Vietnam.

Hotel Muse
Bangkok Langsuan,
MGallery, Thailand. MGallery
STORYTELLING Charming and
delightful hotels with their own
thoughtful stories, each hotel stages
with talent a unique personality and
story, experienced by guests through
its architecture, interior design and
service offers.

INSPIRED BY HER OFFER Inspired

by Her program seeks to meet the
specific requirements of the female
leisure and business travellers through
a suite of services and amenities such
as adjusted bathrobes, feminine
touch in the F&B etc.

MEMORABLE MOMENT Every

MGallery hotel creates a truly
singular, charming and often
extravagant experience of the
destination that leaves guests with
unforgettable memories.

SOME OF OUR FINEST:

Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan,
MGallery, Thailand; Hotel Des
Arts Saigon, MGallery, Vietnam;
Hotel Lindrum Melbourne,
MGallery, Australia

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 47

 Feel Welcome
in S o u t h K o r e a

DISCOVER KOREA’S
DYNAMIC CITYSCAPE & RICH CULTURAL HERITAGE WITH
ACCOR AMBASSADOR HOTELS

SEOUL | 15 Hotels

INCHEON | 1 Hotel

24 HOTELS
SUWON | 2 Hotels

DAEGU | 1 Hotel

FROM LUXURY TO ECONOMY ULSAN | 1 Hotel

CHANGWON | 1 Hotel BUSAN | 3 Hotels

IN 7 DYNAMIC CITIES
My Stories, My Korea
Create picture-perfect memories with Accor Ambassador hotels

Spoiled fo
r choice w
variety of ith four ho
bars and tels and a
story restauran
ts.
stroll through hi ~ S eo u l D
An enchanting an ok " ho uses. ra go n C it y
~
of "h
among hundreds
k Vi lla ge ~
~ Bu kc ho n Ha no

The royal gu
ard changing
Spectacular! ceremony.
~ G wa ng hw am
un G at e ~

op with
n the rooft
Relaxing o
iews. gd on g ~
amazing v ba ss a d or S
eo ul M ye on
s Am
~ ib is S ty le
A traditional Korean experience.
Authentic and exceptional.
~ Gyeongwonjae Ambassador Incheon ~

A refres
hing dip
in a pool w
~ N o v o te ith a vie
l Ambass w.
ador Se
oul Dong
daemun
~

der in
Romantic evenings glow with won
beautiful
ay id y ll ic days in downtown Seoul.
Lazing aw ~ Cheo nggy eche on Stre am ~
Busan. ~
ae Beach
~ Haeund

Explore a world of fascinating stories at 24 Accor Ambassador hotels

in seven destinations across South Korea.
 JUNE 2019

Pullman Phuket
Panwa Beach
Resort in Thailand,
page 64.

THERE’S SOMETHING FOR E VERY T Y PE

O F T R AV E L L E R — C O U P L E S , FA M I L I E S ,
ADVENTURE SEEKERS—IN THE

MALDIVES
P. 52

WHEN IN NEED OF SOME LOCAL FL AIR

C O M B I N E D W I T H U N M AT C H E D
B A N G KO K A N D P H U K E T C O U L D N ’ T B E H O S P I TA L I T Y, L O O K N O F U R T H E R T H A N
MORE DIFFERENT BUT BOTH ARE STILL
G R E AT S T O P S F O R Y O U R N E X T T R I P T O
NEW ZEALAND
THAILAND P. 74
P. 64

T H E B E S T WAY T O G E T A T R U E TA S T E
OF AN Y COUNTRY IS THROUGH ITS
F O O D A N D D R I N K , PA R T I C U L A R LY I N

AUSTRALIA AFTER YEARS ON THE CUTTING

P. 81 EDGE, THE TIME HAS NEVER BEEN
B E T T E R T O V I S I T FA R - F L U N G

PHU QUOC
P. 88
TA K E A S T E P B A C K I N T I M E T O
ANOTHER AGE OF ASIA, BUT AL SO
ENJOY A GLIMPSE OF THE FUTURE IN

MYANMAR
P. 94

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 51

A string of
Water villas at the
Fairmont Maldives
Sirru Fen Fushi.

52 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 PARADISE AWAITS
BETWEEN SNORKELING TRIPS AND INNUMERABLE HAPPY
HOURS, ASHLEY NIEDRINGHAUS DISCOVERS THERE ARE
TWO SIDES TO EVERY SEASHELL IN THE MALDIVES AND
UNCOVERS SOMETHING FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELER,
FROM ROMANTICS TO FAMILIES TO THE BUDGET-CONSCIOUS
IN THIS ULTRA-LUXURIOUS COUNTRY.
 High above
Raffles Maldives
Meradhoo.

LONG A DESTINATION THOUGHT OF ONLY FOR ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME JOURNEYS AND SKY-

HIGH PRICE TAGS, THE MALDIVES HAS TURNED A CORNER. HOME TO SOME 1,200 ATOLLS
STREWN ACROSS THE INDIAN OCEAN, MOST WITH JAW-DROPPING OVERWATER VILLAS
THAT HOVER ABOVE LUMINOUS BLUE WATERS, THIS WATER WONDERLAND IS
ACCESSIBLE TO EVERYONE. LUXURY AT ITS FINEST ABOUNDS, AS DO ROMANTIC
GETAWAYS, PURELY ASPIRATIONAL ATOLLS AND WORLD-CLASS DIVING. YET, THE
MALDIVES NOW OFFERS GETAWAYS FOR FAMILIES WHO ARE SEARCHING OUT VALUE
THAT INCLUDES EVERY AGE GROUP. WHAT HASN'T CHANGED, AND WHY EVERYONE
VISITS, IS A TO-THE-HORIZON SEASCAPE WITH COLORFUL REEFS AND PLENTIFUL
SCHOOLS OF MARINE LIFE. AT THE END OF EACH DAY, MODERN COMFORTS AWAIT AT
YOUR TROPICAL ATOLL, WHICH DOUBLES AS YOUR OWN PRIVATE ISLAND ESCAPE.

54 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 Creature
comforts at
FOR THE POSH HONEYMOONERS
Raffles Maldives A LUXURIOUS FOODIE HAVEN LIKE NO OTHER
Meradhoo.
Raffles Hotels are synonymous with luxury, so it’s no
suprise that the brand’s first foray into the Maldives, the
Raffles Maldives Meradhoo, is now open. Their home in
this tropical paradise is the Gaafu Alifu Atoll in the
southern strip of the country near the Equator, one of
the largest and most remote atolls in the world.
Glamorous beach villas are built on the natural island,
encircled by powdery white sand while the overwater
villas rise out from the dappled turquoise water. The
ultra-remote location is free of light pollution, so looking
for shooting stars and dreaming of the far-off galaxies is
a nightly pastime. The outdoor pool and shower in the 18
beach villas and three two-bedroom beach residences
are an ideal spot to enjoy a starry night. With soft waves
lapping against the stilts of the above-water villa, the
lavish one- and two-bedroom addresses are reached
aboard a Maldivian bonito, a traditional fishing boat.
Terraces in the overwater villas have glass panel floors
where electric blue trumpet fish, rays and even green sea
turtles flutter through the crystal-clear water to create
dazzling personal aquariums. Marble bathrooms,
heavenly beds and soothing soft blue hues add to the
natural elements of the light-filled and generously
proportioned villas.
Swim in the
Enjoy fresh-cut fruits and flaky pastries at breakfast,
pool or the ocean, choose a bottle of premium Champagne at the pool bar in
the options are the afternoon and end the day with fresh seafood at Nikkei,
endless. where creative and skilled chefs deliciously interpret
Peruvian cuisine through a local lens with Japanese
precision. The adjoining Overwater Bar favors South
American and Japanese spirits, with lots of mezcal, tequila,
pisco, and sake, and pairings complement fish tacos and
fresh-caught oysters. Plucked-from-the-sea prawns,
delicious grouper and lobsters are marinated and grilled
at Firepit, a gourmet beachside barbecue with an
exceptional list of Old and New World wines. Complete
your stay with a rejuvenating spa treatment and swim
past dazzling coral walls as you mingle with the schools
of tropical fish that await in the warm waters. www.
raffles.com/maldives; villas from US$1,778 with breakfast.

Recliners with
a view, or two.
 A beach with
surreal colours in
every direction.
 A spacious Tented
Jungle Villa.

FOR THE FAMILY THAT TRAVELS IN STYLE

villa hosts fulfill any wish from dive lessons in the
undiscovered reef around the island to private
SPACIOUS VILLAS WITH ENDLESS PERKS barbecues. A breezy chic style brings a cohesive look and
feel to the villas by using light woods and a natural pop
Tucked away on the western rim of the Shaviyani Atoll, of color coming from the floor-to-ceiling views of the
the all-villa Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi occupies a turquoise waters.
delightfully remote slice of sand surrounded by water One of the many show-stopping elements in the resort
that is such a perfect shade of turquoise it looks like an is the semi-submerged art gallery, the first of its kind in
Instagram filter in real life. Guests arrive at this tropical the Maldives, created by renowned underwater
paradise after a scenic hour-long seaplane flight from naturalist and artist Jason deCaires Taylor. The
Malé. In total, the 120 villas are a blend of art and nature configurations of the gallery were designed to act as an
made from natural materials, indigenous decorations artificial reef and it’s a high-end coral regeneration
and native patterns. One of the country’s biggest islands, project that is a sanctuary for the marine life. Guests can
and its lagoon, richly populated with 250 species of snorkel around the stainless-steel cubes and enjoy the
colorful reef fish, is also top of the charts for size. Yet, vibrant coral. www.fairmont.com/maldives; villas from
the biggest attraction for divers and snorkelers alike are US$1,020 on a half-board rate.
the manta-cleaning stations found under the waves here.
Witnessing manta rays in their natural habitat like this
is priceless. Trade the saltwater and sea turtles for a
round of cocktails in the 200-meter-long infinity pool—
another bigger-than-most amenity—that traverses the
length of the island.
Across a trio of accommodation options, 120 villas
offer something for every vacation style. Honeymooners
delight in over-water villa, an essential fixture of any
Maldivian resort, that have generously sized sundecks
with hammocks and a huge infinity pool, where
newlyweds can choose their preferred villa view of
sunrise or sunset. Targeting multi-generational families
are roomy beach villas that have plunge pools and child-
centric hangout zones, including a kid’s club, toddler play
A Water villa
garden and an area exlusively aimed at teens. Adventure
premium bathroom
seekers will find a home in the safari-like tented jungle at the Fairmont.
villas with outdoor pools. Around the resort, personal

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 57

 FOR THE ECO-LUXE FAMILY
A NEW RESORT GETS ENVIRONMENTAL KUDOS
If the Maldives is home to a resort truly aimed at young
families, then Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru Maldives is
it, from its kid-friendly guestrooms to restaurants
offering a specially created Powerbites menu for
children. Parents win too.
While mom and dad enjoy a yoga class or time in the
spa, children ages two to 12 are well looked after in the
Clean, eco- Little Bird kids’ club where they can learn about the local
friendly lines of culture through immersive games and activities,
the Movenpick.
participate in educational but fun eco-friendly activities,
or enjoy a cooking class. And when it comes to mealtime,
the chefs creatively transform meals into beachscapes
with palm trees made from veggies and a scoop of fried
rice mimicking the sand, adding a touch of whimsy to
kid-specific meals with the Powerbites menu. Clunky
baby gear, like playpens, strollers, car seats and even
baby baths are available, allowing families to travel light.
There’s another aspect of Mövenpick Resort
Kuredhivaru Maldives that shouldn’t go unnoticed, even
under a tropical sun: its Swiss roots. Unwind in a café
culture environment with top quality Mövenpick
products including coffee, chocolate, ice-cream and
wine. Or indulge in a sweet treat during the afternoon: a
glass of iced coffee or a scoop of ice-cream. Then there’s
the daily—and complimentary—Mövenpick Chocolate
Hour, which is as delicious as it sounds. Later in the day,
wine tastings—there is a test at the end to sharpen your
ability to identify labels—at the Mövenpick Coffee &
Wine Lounge take place at sundown. To cap off a perfect
day, the menu at Bodumas offers local and Asian dishes,
Unforgettable and Western classics, all with a 360-degree ocean view.
sunset views. The aim here is to make sure the vibrant islands and
coral reefs are around for generations to come. Those
efforts arise in several ways, from reducing plastic
waste, paperless check-in and out and avoiding over
packaging to installing solar panels that produce clean
energy and building an in-house plant that eliminates
the need for 300,000 plastic water bottles a year.
Incorporating the island’s natural resources and
elements is a design element, and the furniture and
structural elements come from coconut wood. During
construction, the island’s indigenous palm trees were
not disturbed, so the lush island has plenty of shade
under swaying palms. The 72 overwater pool villas have
nets suspended over water, and private pools jut out
from the wooden deck, giving the sensation of floating in
the sea. The 30 beach pool suites offer sunrise and
sunset views, and follow an open-concept floor plan that
includes rattan furniture, a free-standing stone bathtub
and a spacious pool deck. On the second story veranda,
panoramic views await. Dip into the plunge pool or the
ocean water without ever leaving the comfort of the
suite. All of the resort’s villas and communal spaces
Villas adapt to the
adopt techniques from local architecture, and the Asian-
natural environment. inspired peaked roofs are dramatic. www.movenpick.
com; suites and villas from US$588 with breakfast. >>

58 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

 Overwater
Sunset Pool Dining by design
Villas beckon. at the Mercure.

FOR VALUE-SEEKING TRAVELERS
AFFORDABLE VILLAS PACKED WITH STYLE
Located in the far southern reaches of this sweeping
island nation, the Mercure Maldives Kooddoo Resort is
known for its remote location, one that is only a
55-minute flight from Male. Value seekers score well
here for the 68-villa resort offers some of the best diving
in the Maldives, its deep channels providing an
underwater setting unlike anywhere else in the country.
Gaafu Alif Atoll lies in southern region of the Maldives
archipelago, a mere 100 kilometers north of the Equator.
These seas are renowned for its prodigious marine life,
mature vegetation, soft sand beaches and easy access.
Where the Mercure Maldives Kooddoo Resort offers
great value, it doesn’t skimp on character or luxury, with
43 overwater villas not to mention 25 more along the
secluded beach. Each has outdoor showers, deep soaking
tubs and punchy accent colors that bring a touch of
whimsy to the proceedings. Sun seekers and swimmers
will delight in the overwater villas—15 with private
pools—that have staircases that lead directly into the
calm blue and green waters that halo the rooms.
For the ultimate in relaxed pampering, book a
treatment at Suvadiva Spa. If a more adrenaline-packed
afternoon is in order, the dive center can arrange a
meeting with local sharks that harmlessly navigate the
reef waters. Or, if something between these two pursuits
hits the right note, take a stand-up paddleboard to the
hammocks and cocktails at Vistas, an overwater lounge
and cocktail bar.
Best of all, the magic of the Mercure Maldives
Kooddoo Resort starts on the arrival flight where the
dramatic scenery of the atolls insists that you book a
window seat and have your camera ready: the views,
and the memories that they provide, are nothing short of
spectacular. www.mercure.com/maldives/kooddoo-
resort; villas from US$238 including breakfast.

COMING SOON
A new and convenient ocean-borne address promises to increase the
variety of what's available in the Maldives even more.

Pullman Maldives Maamutaa Cosy up to the bar for a selection

Resort From a seaplane, the first
thing visitors will notice about the
120-villa Pullman Maldives
Maamutaa is how green the island
actually is. Yet, the resort is only 10
minutes by speedboat away from the
new airport at Kooddoo. Set amid
azure seas, the resort consists of 80
bungalows above the water and
another 40 located along beaches.
Don't overlook the spa, two
swimming pools, organic gardens,
and—of course—a tennis court. Your
serve and volley have never seen
such a setting.
Among the unique experiences at
the resort are a champagne
breakfast with a variety of cuisines
from every corner of the globe.
Lunch involves a selection of light
meals and snacks, a salad bar and a
Welcome to the dessert bar, while dinner’s fine dining
Pullman Maldives options include mouthwatering
Maamutaa Resort. Italian, organic and international
menus.
of champagnes, whiskeys in the 15-
to 18-year range, a fridge full of
international beers, and more than
80 exotic wine labels—both New
World and Old. Don’t miss out on
Pullman’s hand-crafted cocktails
and mocktails, or the long list of
fresh juices, milk shakes, soft drinks
and mineral water.
For the active set, there’s dawn
and dusk Tai Chi and yoga sessions,
and each stay includes one
adventure excursion. Try your hand
fishing at sunset while your kids are
enjoying the resort’s kids club. At the
Pullman Aqua Club is complimentary
snorkeling equipment and two
snorkeling excursions shuttles each
day. Windsurfers, catamarans,
canoes and stand-up paddleboards
are also available.
All guests are eligible for at least
one 60-minute spa session or a dive,
provided they have a PADI
certificate. pullman.com.

60 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

BR ANDS

Pullman Bangkok
King Power,
Thailand.

Pullman
THE JUNCTION AT PULLMAN The
Junction is a fresh new take on the
lobby concept and is at the very heart
of the Pullman guest experience. It is
a destination in itself, a dynamic,
vibrant and happening place where
global nomads check in and out, meet
Pullman Phuket
Arcadia Naithon
and mingle, work and play.
Beach, Thailand.
PULLMAN POWER FIT & SPA
CONCEPT At Pullman, we
understand that feeling good is
crucial to peak performance and
offer global nomads exciting and
rewarding ways to stay on top of
their game. Our Wellness
Ambassador Sarah Hoey’s holistic
approach to Sport, Spa, Sleep and
Food boosts our guests’ daily life in a
powerful way.
IMMERSIVE ART & DESIGN
A stay at Pullman is an opportunity
for our guests to be immersed in art
and design in a fresh, modern and
inspiring way. Exhibitions take place
in living spaces lending to the
Pullman’s creative vibe and invite
guests to discover local up-and-
coming artists, connecting them to
the city they are in.
PULLMAN RESORTS
We continually imagine new ways of
doing business and unwinding in an
ever more connected world. Our
guests can work and play as they
disconnect from the pressures of
daily life and reconnect with loved
ones and oneself.
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon
Beach, Thailand; Pullman
Bangkok King Power, Thailand

62 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM


SwissÔtel
SWISS HOSPITALITY
Contemporary hotels designed with
the quality and care of Swiss
hospitality. We are Swiss at heart and
global by nature. We offer guests the
quality of life, vitality and peace of
mind they need to explore the world
and discover life's true rewards. Life
is a journey, Live it well.
PÜROVEL The Pürovel philosophy is
derived from the origin of wellbeing
and use of nature’s resources. The
Pürovel essence is transfused in
Pürovel Spa & Sport facilities,
BR ANDS
Vitarity room in
Swissôtel The
Stamford,
Singapore.
Pürovel bathroom amenities and
Swissôtel
signature treatments. Nankai Osaka,
Japan.
SWISSÔTEL VITALITY ROOM
A new perspective on well-being and
hospitality. Launched in October
2016, the stylish sanctuary includes
bespoke wellness features to help
guests maintain their mental and
physical health. The innovative
concept builds on Swissôtel’s
well-received Vitality Programme.
THE QUARTER Signature restaurant
at Swissôtel Hotels & Resorts a
reminiscent of a brasserie/bistro,
international and eclectic, a SOME OF OUR FINEST:
restaurant where locals ‘want to be’, Swissôtel Sydney, Australia;
embracing contemporary design as Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Japan;
well as the values of Swissôtel as a Swissôtel The Stamford,
brand with an emphasis on fresh, Singapore; Swissôtel Merchant
local and sustainable products. Court, Singapore
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 63
A pool with a view
at SO/ Bangkok.

Bangkok and Phuket couldn’t be more different, but they do share the
ongoing ability to evolve and constantly surprise visitors, so it’s never
a bad time to explore the country’s most popular stops once again.
BY DUNCAN FORGAN

64 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

TWO SIDES OF
THAILAND

Lounging at
the Pullman
Phuket Arcadia
Naithon Beach.
Wat Arun
along the
Chao Phraya
river at dusk.
 The Speakeasy I FIND MYSELF LULLED INTO A REVERIE
atop the Hotel by the drink and my immediate surroundings.
Muse Bangkok.
Langsuan, Benefitting from the prized perch high above
MGallery Lumpini Park—one of the more sizeable
patches of greenery in the Thai capital—the
bar at the sumptuous SO/ Bangkok is a stellar
addition to the city’s sky-high club: its
impressive roster of rooftop drinking venues.
The views across the park with its lakes and
luminous tropical greenery are impressive. My
gaze is drawn to the chrome-and-glass towers
that dominate the skyline on the other side of
the park; vertigo-inducing structures that were
but a distant twinkle in the eyes of ambitious
developers when I first visited nearly 20 years
ago. What has not changed—and at this
realization I raise a quiet toast—is the ability of
Bangkok and, indeed, Thailand, to hit the sweet
spot of travelers.
At once chaotic, confusing, but also utterly
magical, the inexhaustible capital is as
spellbinding as ever. Regularly voted one of the
best cities on the planet by visitors, the city
remains a place of seemingly endless contrasts.
Here old merges seamlessly with new, the
spiritual is balanced with the earthly and the
sacred is on first name terms with the profane.

BANGKOK MIGHT
Although it retains its innate exoticism,
Bangkok’s breakneck evolution means that
even experienced hands like me are constantly

NOT EVOKE
presented with fresh fuel for our ardour. On
any given day, visitors can kick back at an
authentic Japanese-style onsen, take an art

IMAGES OF
excursion to hip galleries such as Case Space
Revolution and Cartel Artspace, browse Thai
designer fashion at Siam Center and round off

CHILLING OUT,
an evening with bespoke cocktails at
speakeasy-style bars like Rabbit Hole and J
Boroski Mixology.

FRENETIC AS THE
Best of all, this eclecticism is at play in a
wide variety of neighbourhoods, ranging from
some of the city’s most venerable quarters to

BIG CITY IS, BUT upscale enclaves pulsing with vital energy.
What’s more, all these areas are easily
accessible via the city’s separate Skytrain and

AS I TAKE A PEW subway networks, with many stations a short

hop from properties such as SO/ Bangkok,
Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit and others in the

AT PARK SOCIETY Accor family.

Take Sathorn and Silom, for example, just a

AND SUP MY WAY

stone’s throw from my perch at Park Society.
The two districts have been synonymous with
Thailand’s financial growth. It’s not just the

THROUGH A
swanky condos, international hotels and
glittering skyscrapers bearing the names of
big-name multinationals that make this part of

SUNDOWNER,
Bangkok so dynamic. It’s also the fact that the
twin ’hoods have evolved to offer one of the
most rounded lifestyle packages in the capital.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 67


Everything at
one address in
The Commons.
Cultural draws and must-visit restaurants
abound with stars including dining hotspots
Bunker and Eat Me and buzzing bars like
Smalls and Namsaah Bottling Trust.
On a personal note, I’m especially drawn to
Bangkok’s Chinatown, which has witnessed an
injection of vital energy courtesy of some of
the city’s most creative bars and galleries.
Venturing into the melee of the old city
affords an opportunity to get acquainted with
ventures such as Cho Why, an independent art
space, and Teens of Thailand a super-cool
shophouse gin bar. With old-school markets
and hidden shrines lurking nearby, it’s
arguably the most charismatic place to wander
in Bangkok.
Temple hopping and immersion into
traditional Thai culture is not such a thing in
areas such as Ekkamai and Thong Lor.
However, for entertainment and creature
comforts there are no better places to be.
Highlights of these ultra-hip hoods include
restaurants like Canvas and Freebird, where
chefs adopt a freewheeling approach to local
ingredients. Also trending is The Commons,
an open-plan community mall that features
several star names from the city’s F&B scene.
Other ventures worth seeking out here
include ZudRangMa, a vinyl lover’s paradise
that specializes in exotic sounds from Africa
and Asia, and Keaton the Tailor, a playful and
original stop on the map that eschews the old
school personality of many of the city’s endless
list of outfitters. >>
68 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
BANGKOK
As diverse as the Thai capital itself, the city’s top hotel addresses
cater to every budget, offering stylish comfort, convenient locations
and—of course—some of the best Thai food imagineable.
Grand Mercure
Bangkok Fortune.
Grand Mercure Bangkok
Fortune A favorable location right
on Bangkok’s subway system
places this newly renovated hotel
right in the thick of things, with
easy links to highlights such as
the old city and Chatuchak
Weekend Market. Thai flavours
abound at the property through
everything from the cuisine to
traditional music performances.
grandmercurebangkokfortune.
com; from US$150.
Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan,
MGallery Designed to evoke the
“golden age of travel,” this
boutique exudes effortless style
and class. Warm wooden features
and seductive lighting evoke the
past, while Asian motifs
counterbalance the European feel
of the place. Special mention goes
to Speakeasy: one of Bangkok’s
most pleasant rooftop bars.
hotelmusebangkok.com; from
US$190.
Ibis Bangkok Riverside From its
perch by the Chao Phraya River,
nearby highlights include popular
lifestyle and shopping venue
Asiatique, while Bangkok big-
hitters such as the Grand Palace
and Wat Arun are but a ferry ride
away. Ibis-bangkok-riverside.
bangkokshotels.com; from US$63.
Ibis Styles Bangkok Khaosan
Viengtai A funky and creative
hotel in one of the hotspots for
foreign tourists, the hotel offers
simple but design led experience.
Nearby Streats is a one-stop
culinary destination with three
separate venues offering
everything from gourmet bakery
items to hearty comfort food.
ibisstylesbangkokkhaosan.com;
from US$100.
Novotel Bangkok Siam Square
Although its proximity to some of
Bangkok’s most famous and
modern shopping districts makes
it ideally placed for retail therapy,
this property is not just geared
towards shopaholics. Spacious
rooms are ideal for kicking back
in, while a generously sized
outdoor pool ups the relaxation
ante further. novotelbkk.com; from
US$150.
Pullman Bangkok Grande
Sukhumvit A stone’s throw from
the city’s Skytrain system and the
lifestyle amenities of Sukhumvit
Road, this hotel couldn’t be better
located. Other draws include the
seafood buffet at Atelier
restaurant and the small bites at
Tapas Vino.
pullmanbangkokgrandesukhumvit.
com; from US$192.
Pullman Bangkok King Power A
little north of the city’s main
shopping area, this hotel fuses
creature comforts with irresistible
convenience. Airy rooms benefit
from floor-to-ceiling windows
while the property’s huge outdoor
swimming pool is a winner.
pullmanbangkokkingpower.com;
from US$171.
SO/ Bangkok There’s plenty to
admire about the SO/ Bangkok:
not least its striking design by
Christian Lacroix. Special mention
though goes to its elevated bar,
Park Society, which benefits from
a prize perch high above Lumpini
Park—one of Bangkok’s few
sizeable patches of verdant
greenery. so-sofitel-bangkok.com;
from US$200.
Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit
Also centrally located, this urban
haven exudes Gallic flair in every
corner of the hotel, from the
bathroom amenities to the fresh
baked croissants and patisserie
items in its lobby café. The guest
rooms here are as luxurious as
you would expect from a Sofitel,
while a gorgeous outdoor pool
supplies extra joie de vivre.
sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit.com;
from US$199.

Angsana
Angsana Laguna
Phuket, Thailand.
ADVENTURE TRAVEL Angsana
brings the adventure back into
travel whatever your age or reason
to visit. Intertwining local chic and
a vibrant fun-filled atmosphere,
Angsana offers amazing destination
playgrounds across the world. Each
hotel is designed to provide
spacious stylish rooms and suites,
perfect for couples, families and
groups of friends.
A SPA, OF COURSE Angsana’s Spas
embrace the contemporary, holistic
and tropical garden spa concepts
through all the resorts around Asia.
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019
BR ANDS
Angsana Velavaru,
Maldives.
MEET AND GREET Corporate
functions, business meetings or
grand gala events, our resorts feature
exclusive spaces in stunning
locations. With a specialised Events
Team and impeccable service, guests
are assured of exceptional events.
DON'T FORGET YOUR FAMILY With
various activities available for the
kids, Angsana is the perfect family
holiday destination. Enjoy all-day
activities at the Kids Club, family-
friendly water and land activities and
kids amenities.
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
Angsana Laguna Phuket,
Thailand; Angsana Velavaru,
Maldives; Angsana Lang Co,
Vietnam; Angsana Tengchong Hot
Spring Village, China
69

SUCH INSPIRING EVOLUTION is not just confined to Bangkok: it
applies to other top destinations in Thailand too. In particular,
Phuket. So famous is the kingdom’s most popular island that you’d
be forgiven for thinking it had no remaining secrets to reveal. But
the so-called “Pearl of the Andaman” has proved itself rather adept
at pulling rabbits from the hat.
With numerous chalk-white slivers of sand dotted around its
perimeter, Phuket’s main claims to fame are its bays and
seascapes. Rightly so. And the appearance of a clutch of inviting
new beachside draws means that there has never been a better
juncture to load up on, as the T-shirts say, Vitamin Sea.
Yes, Phuket is a playground. And it’s well beyond the days of a
shovel and pail at the beach. At the Novotel Phuket Surin Beach
Resort, the Siam Adventure Club offers a Popsicle hotline, which is
exactly what it sounds like. Any kid can pick up the phone, order
their favorite flavor and it will be delivered in minutes free of
charge.
The Siam Adventure Club also offers a video arcade aimed at
kids four years old and up, but also at parents who need their own
break with the help of classic games such as the Mario Bros and
Donkey Kong. A cinema and candy store round out the attractions
here.
At the Grand Mercure Phuket Patong Resort & Villas, authentic
Thai dishes at Jewel of Phuket’s Cuisine are seasoned to family
tastes. Mee Hoon Gaeng Poo, yellow crab curry with vermicelli
noodles, and Oh Aew, banana jelly and palm seed coconut ice
70 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Pool views at
the Avista Grand
Phuket Karon,
MGallery.
cream, are just two courses that will please
every member of the family.
Away from the resorts, there’s no shortage
of menus that kids will enjoy. Jungceylon is a
magnet for both shopping and eating, with a
please every palate list of sandwiches and
pizzas and ice cream, Mediterranean and
Japanese and, of course, Thai offerings all
making the cut here.
To burn off some of that lunch, head to Dino
Park Mini Gold between Karon and Kata
beaches. It’s 18 holes set against a prehistoric
backdrop—there’s even a Flintstones-themed
restaurant—isn’t, how to put this, a normal
golf course. Life-like dinos are ready to snap up
any errant golf ball, while the hazards include
an erupting volcano. Most importantly, it’s a
great escape from the tropical sun.
On Kamala Beach, legendary Ibiza name
Café del Mar packs in revelers with a tried and
tested blend of ingredients that encompasses
great food, international DJs, a big party pool
lined with loungers and plenty of day beds. Just
as popular with the party crowd is Bliss Beach
Club, overlooking the porcelain-white sands of
Bangtao Beach in the quieter north of Phuket. >>
 FAMILY-FRIENDLY
PHUKET PARADISE

BIG SMILES
THAI STYLE

AWARD-WINNING HOSPITALITY IN
BEAUTIFUL KAMALA BEACH
Plenty of room to stretch out and relax. Lush tropical gardens. And a
lagoon-style pool with a kids area and waterslide. Welcome to an idyllic
island retreat that’s pure happiness for your entire family.

SWISSOTEL.COM AMERICAS | ASIA PACIFIC | EUROPE | MIDDLE EAST


While life on this popular island does tend
to be a beach, there are plenty of other
diversions around. For visitors looking for
some retail therapy, the most convenient
collection of high-end boutiques is located at
The Plaza Surin.
Standout shops here include Andara
Boutique with its comprehensive and colorful
selection of resort wear and Soul of Asia,
where art and antiques from around the
region are a boon for browsers and buyers
alike. Close by is Bampot where Scottish chef
Jamie Wakeford has forged a formidable word
of mouth reputation around the island with
his creative, modern European menu.
While I appreciate the never-ending buzz of
popular beaches such as Patong, Kata and
Karon and the laid-back reverie of stretches
along the coast like Kamala and Naithon, my
own personal happy place on the island is
Phuket Town itself.
The island’s capital used to be largely
overlooked by visitors eager to arrive at the
beaches, but tourists are starting to fall for the
town, which is redolent with reminders of
Phuket’s rich history of trade. The best place to
launch an investigation is along Thalang Road,
the historical heart of Phuket Town and home
to some of its best-preserved examples of
heritage architecture.
A short hop away is Raya House, one of the
most famous restaurants in a food-obsessed
town. Visitors can slurp down the venue’s
famous crab curry— so good that it has
become an Instagram hit. Yet while its
signature dish has become a social media star,
the beautifully preserved Sino-Portuguese
structure that houses the restaurant is a
stately portal to a bygone era. It’s a reminder
that the magic of Thailand resides in its ability
to offer new experiences without losing track
of its enchanting past.
Never pass
up a
seafood
meal in
Phuket.
72 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
PHUKET
There’s more than a few unforgettable beaches on Thailand’s favorite
island, so after your days on the sand are fulfilled, make sure you
explore the rest of the getaway through its great resorts
Avista Grande Phuket Karon,
MGallery Phuket’s rich heritage
as a hub of trade is celebrated via
the Sino-Portuguese design
touches found around this
property. The resort’s signature
restaurant Portosino expands on
this theme with its mash-up of
Asian and European culinary
styles. Karon beach—one of
Phuket’s finest stretches of sand
—is right on the doorstep. avista-
grande-phuket-karon.com; from
US$100 per night.
Avista Hideaway Phuket Patong,
MGallery Downtown Patong’s
freneticism seems a world away
at this suitably named refuge. Laid
out in the style of a traditional
Thai village on a lush hilltop
overlooking the Andaman Sea, the
resort has numerous enticing
calling cards including three
swimming pools, two restaurants
and a rooftop bar. avista-
hideaway-phuket-patong.com;
from US$120 per night.
Grand Mercure Phuket Patong
With more than 300 rooms
including sumptuous suites and a
selection of pool villas, there’s a
lot to discover at this expansive
property. In fact, enticing food-
and-beverage options such as a
dedicated craft beer lounge and
versatile international dining
venue Bubbles mean that the
resort offers a one-stop shop for
guests near Phuket’s most buzzing
beach. grandemercurepatong.com;
from US$120 per night.
Ibis Styles Phuket City The
myriad charms of Phuket Town are
often overlooked by visitors eager
to hit the island’s beaches. This
sleek stop offers hip stays within
easy reach of urban attractions
including colorful traditional
shophouses and an incredible
selection of restaurants and food
stalls. accorhotels.com; from
US$50 per night.
Novotel Phuket Kata Avista
Resort & Spa Overlooking the
pristine sands of Kata Beach and
the shimmering Andaman Sea,
this resort is a solid all-rounder
that offers more than just a little
flair. An acclaimed spa features a
range of wellness packages, while
the swim up pool bar is a suitably
amenable option for leisurely
drinks.
novotel-phuket-kata-avista.com;
from US$120 per night.
Pullman Phuket Arcadia
Naithon Beach For an idyllic
Phuket getaway, look no further
than this diamond of a property.
Perched on a headland
overlooking the Andaman Sea, the
resort offers the ultimate in rest
and relaxation. While Naithon
Beach is just a minute’s walk from
the property, two outdoor pools
offer an alternative to the ocean.
pullmanphuketarcadia.com; from
US$120 per night.
Pullman Phuket Panwa Beach
Resort Sense of place is an
important factor when it comes to
choosing a resort. And Thai
touches abound at this beautiful
property. Subtle accents inform
the decoration of the rooms, Thai
cuisine is the mainstay at
Tamarind restaurants, while
relaxing massages can be enjoyed
at the resort’s Talay Spa.
pullmanphuketpanwa.com; from
US$100 per night.
Swissotel Resort Phuket
Kamala Beach Located near one
of Phuket’s most laid-back
beaches, this resort is the perfect
choice for a relaxing family
vacation. Indeed, a centerpiece
pool complete with waterslide
offers scope for some serious
splashing. Highlights include the
Serenity Spa and inviting rooms
equipped with private balconies.
swissotelphuketkamala.com; from
US$60 per night.
Swissotel Resort Phuket Patong
Beach. With spacious rooms, a
lush pool and the Andaman Sea
just 200 meters away, this resort
supplies all the ingredients for an
idyllic beach break. Highlights of
the property include the excellent
Thai and international cuisine at
Flavours restaurant and a swim-
up pool bar.
swissotelphuketpatong.com; from
US$100 per night.
 BR ANDS

Mövenpick Resort Mövenpick

& Spa Jimbaran Jimbaran Bali,
Bali, Indonesia. Indonesia.

MÖvenpick
MÖVENPICK WINE, COFFEE,
CHOCOLATE… Mövenpick is the
only hotel company that can offer its
own branded range of fine food and
beverages – from coffee and
chocolate to yoghurts. A moment to
enjoy true quality and to reflect on
Mövenpick
Colombo, Sri our food heritage which stretches
Lanka. back to 1948.

MÖVENPICK SIGNATURE DISHES

Traditional Swiss recipes revisited
by Mövenpick to entice the modern
palate, marrying tradition with
culinary innovation.

MÖVENPICK SLEEP Mövenpick

SLEEP rooms include a large array of
in-room amenities, arranged by us,
to enhance guests’ sleep experience.
These rooms are situated in quiet
areas of our hotels.

MÖVENPICK BALANCED LIVING

Mövenpick Balance is a concept to
enhance guests’ life during their stay.
It includes healthy food, individually
different sleep, inner peace and
commitment to the community.

SOME OF OUR FINEST:

Mövenpick Colombo, Sri Lanka;
Mövenpick Resort & Spa
Jimbaran Bali, Indonesia

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 73

The Kiwi Connection
Two addresses in New Zealand offer stylish stays, each with a distinct touch of
their locale combined with Kiwi hospitality. BY LINDY ALEX ANDER
L
ET THERE BE LIGHTS.
Lots of them. You get the feeling it’s an idea
the designers of Auckland’s newest hotel,
SO/Auckland, took to heart as you spot the
imposing mega-chandelier created by Dutch
design house Moooi in the entry foyer. The
branches of the enormous chandelier hold 68
individual lamps of diverse styles, from dusky
pink and transparent bell-shaped lights to
twinkling fairy-lit orbs. It’s an installation
that immediately strikes you with its scale,
playfulness and beauty.
But with light also comes shade and in
keeping with the modern, urban hotel trend
that eschews a traditional lobby, check-in is at
Mixo, the ground-floor cocktail bar featuring
moody South American volcanic blue stone
tiles on the walls and shimmering black
flooring. There is visual relief in the form of
plush, velvet armchairs, fiery lava-coloured
carpets, tall vases filled with flowers and
suspended glass bouquets of flower blossoms
above the bar.
Opened in November and just a block from
the water, the hotel is the latest of eight SO
properties, which stretch from Bangkok to
Berlin, Mauritius to Singapore. Each SO
hotel pays tribute to its location through
collaborations with high-profile names from
the world of fashion and design such as Kenzo,
Christian Lacroix, and Viktor & Rolf.
The first SO to open in the Pacific region,
renowned local fashion innovator WORLD
was engaged to create bold and energetic
designs for the property over a three-year
period. The in-room artwork right down to the
wallpaper, cushions for the chauffeured cars
and the individualized, hand-made uniforms
for the staff, are all meticulously detailed and Marc de
extravagantly executed. Passorio. TOP
FROM LEFT: A
Drawing on Auckland’s rich volcanic
Harbour Society
geography, the hotel’s emblem is a stylized entree; the view
topographical map of the city. “The swirling, at SO/ SPA.
hypnotic effect feels as though you’re looking OPPOSITE FROM
directly into the eye of a volcano,” says Benny TOP: The
definitive porte-
Castles, designer and director for WORLD. cochere at SO/
“It reflects that feeling of stepping into a Auckland; the
boutique hotel—a hypnotic experience where Green Room
the outside world is left behind and a new bar, Sofitel
experience begins.” Wellington.
The dynamic theming of the hotel flows
into the 130 guest rooms, and gives a nod to
the building’s history as the former Reserve
Bank, which once housed New Zealand’s gold
reserves. The suites are decorated in three
different styles: vapor, liquid and solid, and
each room references earthly elements—think
rust-coloured padded velvet headboards, white
cushions with a swirling black vortex, gold
hand basins, and black and gold carpets.
The glamour and bling continues on the
15th floor, where Michelin-starred French chef
Marc de Passorio is at the helm in the hotel’s
restaurant, Harbour Society. The menu is
French-inspired but features Kiwi flavours,
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 75

with exquisitely presented dishes such as the
codfish poached in spiced milk with seasonal
vegetables and aioli, and lamb rack with
raspberry harissa. For de Passorio, working
at the hotel is a culinary adventure. “New
Zealand offers so many things, from fantastic
A Cocktail Trio produce and wine to amazing scenery
at The Green
Room, Sofitel wherever you go, fresh air and generous,
Wellington. friendly people,” says de Passorio. “When I
ABOVE: Jardin was invited to join SO/ Auckland as the Head
Grill restaurant. Culinary Designer I felt it was fate and an
offer impossible to refuse.”
Another offer impossible to refuse is
cocktails at the HI-SO rooftop bar. With
sweeping views over the harbour and the
rising volcanic cone of Rangitoto Island, the
lively indoor-outdoor bar is the perfect spot to
order a “sunset gun,” a beautifully balanced
sweet and sour cocktail with a hint of smoke to
nurse as you watch the sky turn pink over the
city of sails.
76 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
T
HE CHIC SOFITEL BR AND has
earned the enviable reputation
for being able to effortlessly blend
French sophistication with the
local environment. But even so,
when you’re greeted with a warm and genuine
“bonjour!” at the Sofitel Wellington, you could
be forgiven for momentarily forgetting where
in the world you are.
Any lapses in memory are quickly remedied
by home-grown hints scattered throughout
the sumptuously furnished property, such
as the gilded apple and pear sculptures (the
hotel was once home to the New Zealand
Apple and Pear Board), and the two-meter-
high glossy, botanical images of plump roses
and hydrangeas by Kiwi photographer Vicky
Fulton in the Green Room lounge and bar.
The décor calls on Paris’ iconic Jardin du
Luxembourg, with the shimmering copper
throughout the interior reminiscent of the
garden’s beehives. Wellington’s lush botanic
gardens are nearby and the framed botanical
prints, floral frescoes and patterned wallpapers
cultivate a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere.
Within the 129 guestrooms and suites, the
French and botanical themes continue, with
vintage gold and bronze tones, gilded lamps,
velvet bedheads and heady Orange Amber
Lanvin toiletries. But the opulence of Sofitel
hotels is captured in the heart of every room—
the luxurious custom-made MyBed. Together
with the high-quality linen, pillow menu, and
thick fluffy towels it’s tempting to call it a
night (or day) and stay in.
But if you did, you’d be missing out on
the Jardin Grill, where you can dine under
vibrant blossoming paintings with a view
into the glimmering copper kitchen. The
menu celebrates New Zealand produce but
with a twist, such as the chargrilled Merino
lamb rib with yellow miso, chive yoghurt
and caramelized onion, or the house made
tagliatelle with black tiger prawns, tomato,
spinach, chilli oil and crispy fried basil.
After you’ve lingered over your meal, the
naturally friendly staff doesn’t hesitate to say,
“bonne nuit” before you retire to your own
little piece of France, right in the centre of
New Zealand’s capital.
THE DETAILS
SO/ Auckland Rates begin from NZ$469 per room
per night and include a complimentary non-alcoholic
minibar.
Sofitel Wellington Room rates start from NZ$269
per room per night.
 BR ANDS

Grand
Mercure
STORIES COME TO LIFE At Grand
Grand Mercure Mercure, we welcome each guest by
Jakarta enriching four brand senses:
Kemayoran,
Indonesia.
Welcome, Taste, Wellness and
Discovery.

Grand Mercure SENSE OF WELCOME A royal

Yangon Golden welcome awaits you at Grand
Empire, Myanmar. Mercure Bangalore. We grace our
guest with only the finest of
embrace–a Mysore Peta, classical
royal Indian attire worn by the kings.

SENSE OF TASTE Latitude 32 North

is a birth place to great teas,
including Xin Yang Mao Jian, which
enjoys its reputation around the
world for its beautiful shining shape,
refreshing good taste and fragrance.

SENSE OF WELLNESS Immerse in

Grand Mercure Phuket
Patong, Thailand.
the Sense of Wellness with our
award-winning and locally crafted
Ryn Spa at Grand Mercure Phuket
Patong.
SENSE OF DISCOVERY Experience
authentic and elegant cultural
heritage of Indonesia with batik
painting. Guests can try this at the
Grand Mercure Yogyakarta.

SOME OF OUR FINEST:

Grand Mercure Jakarta
Kemayoran, Indonesia; Grand
Mercure Phuket Patong, Thailand;
Grand Mercure Zhengzhou West,
China; Grand Mercure Mysore,
India; Grand Mercure Yangon
Golden Empire, Myanmar

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 77

BR ANDS
Mercure
Mercure
Bangkok
Sukhuvit 11,
Thailand.
LOCALLY INSPIRED Each hotel has
its own style and personality. Locally
rooted, the design and decor of each
hotel tells an authentic & inspiring
story. Blending classic decoration
with a modern twist or contemporary
design & heritage, with a new
bedding offer, Mercure hotels are a
promise of an inspiring escape.
While every Mercure hotel is unique,
all share the same passion for high
quality services. So from the moment
our guests step inside a Mercure—be
it in the Maldives or in Bangkok—
78 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Mercure
Maldives
Kooddoo Resort,
Maldives.
they are immersed in their
destination. Mercure, Locally
inspired hotels.
LOCAL WINE & BEVERAGE
CONCEPT Offer of quality wines or
beverage with a story to tell, locally
produced or selectively distributed by
demanding producers, at attractive
prices anyway.
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
Mercure Maldives Kooddoo
Resort, Maldives; Mercure
Bangkok Makkasan, Thailand;
Mercure Bangkok Sukhumvit 11,
Thailand
 BR ANDS

Tribe Perth,
Australia.

Tribe Perth,
Australia.
Tribe
Tribe is a new kind of hotel. One that
responds directly to the desires and
aspirations of the modern traveller. A
concept inspired by global journeys
and an uncompromising vision to
deliver a uniquely positioned, design
driven hotel. A refreshing and
disruptive brand, Tribe challenges
the status quo with its edited hotel
experience thatmakes it a leader in
the design-led affordable luxury
sector. Modern travellers, we made
this hotel for you. Welcome to Tribe.

SOME OF OUR FINEST:

Tribe Perth, Australia

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 79

 HYDEPARADISO
FOLLOW

BOOK A BOOTH
H Y D E PA R A D I S O.C O M

T H E P L AC E T O B E S E E N , B Y T H E S E A
OCEANFRONT VIEWS, DINNER, DRINKS & DANCING.

LEVEL 2, PEPPERS SOUL HOTEL

8 THE ESPLANADE, SURFERS PARADISE
QUEENSLAND, 4217
 ONE ROUTE TO UNCOVERING
AUSTRALIA IS THROUGH ITS
FOOD AND DRINK MENUS.

ON THE MENU REGARDLESS OF WHERE YOU

ARE, WRITES LINDY
ALEXANDER, YOU’LL ONLY
GET A TRUE TASTE OF THIS

DOWN UNDER DIVERSE COUNTRY WHEN

DRINKING AND DINING.

Views to inspire
from Mount
Lofty House.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 81

Think of Australia and images of the Outback, Sydney
Harbour and the Great Barrier Reef immediately
spring to mind. Yet, spread across this great expanse
of a nation is any number of opportunities for an
unforgettable meal or drinks in settings that will
remain wonderful memories after you've returned
home. Whether it's a night of sipping champagne
while overlooking Sydney, a must-visit corner of food-
mad Melbourne or courses of artisanal creations in
Barossa Valley, here is a sampling that no trip to
Australia is complete without.

CHAMPAGNE BAR
Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour
The glittering lights and shimmering waters of
Sydney are superbly framed by panoramic floor-to-
ceiling windows at Sofitel’s Champagne Bar. Here you
can savour the world’s finest champagne (this is the
only spot in Australia serving Louis Roeder—the 2009
Philippe Stark Brut Nature). On Saturday nights the
bar is the best spot to see fireworks on the harbour.
Louder than a champagne cork popping, but
guaranteed to get your weekend started with a bang.
Be sure to order: Caviar to go with your champagne.

ATELIER BY SOFITEL
Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour
A short walk from the State Theatre, Atelier is ideal
for dinner before a show. The three interactive food
stations draw on South of France flavours, such as
the Rossini beef burger with foie gras and the
delicately flavoured seafood bouillabaisse with tiger
prawns, mussels and saffron aioli. With native
ingredients, the menu also carries hints of indigenous
Australia, with native ingredients. Be sure to order:
Burger Rossini for beef and foie gras lovers.

THE TERNARY RESTAURANT & BAR

Novotel Sydney Darling Harbour
With its polished timber floorboards, light-filled
dining room and pastel palette, The Ternary is
Scandi-chic at its best. Pull up a seat at the bar for a
cocktail unlike any other. The team of talented
mixologists here each have a signature offering, but
the Palpasa by Mitch is a standout—it’s short and
sweet with a gin and pomegranate juice base and
infused with fragrant lime and star anise. Be sure to
order: Pulled pepper beef with tamarind sauce.

NEWMARKET RESTAURANT
The William Inglis, MGallery
The equine theme is undeniable at Newmarket
Restaurant, which overlooks the beautiful grounds of
Riverside Stables. But there’s no horsing around when
it comes to the menu. Sunday afternoons mean live
music in the verdant garden, and with specific gluten-
free, vegetarian and children’s menus, everyone is
welcome. Be sure to order: The light and delicious
minute steak paired with some seafood.
FLOYD’S BAR, PRETTY BOY, GOLDIE CANTEEN pineapple glaze, green pawpaw and Asian herbs is
Novotel Melbourne Central the go-to dish.
The executive chef at these three hip establishments
is a rising star on the Australian food scene. Michael THE CLIVEDEN BAR & DINING
Smith is known for his creativity and his commitment Pullman Melbourne On The Park
to local and seasonal food. Be sure to order: Pork As one of East Melbourne’s newest bar and dining
and veal meatballs with house-made pasta. destinations, the Clivedon is a modern interpretation
of the classic buffet, transforming into a coveted
THE MUSE fresh seafood bar on weekends. The innovative bar
The Mitchelton Hotel Nagambie, MGallery also creates a bespoke gin featuring Mediterranean
Set on the banks of the Goulburn River in the botanicals such as rosemary, oregano and bitter
Victorian countryside, The Muse is a restaurant almond alongside native botanicals like lemon
renowned for paying tribute its fertile surroundings myrtle. Be sure to order: Throughout the week it’s
with its produce-driven menu. Summer on the terrace difficult to pass up the Tasmanian wilderness, 28-day CLOCKWISE FROM
means indulging in wines from the estate’s extensive aged beef fillet with potatoes, Yarra valley greens TOP LEFT: At the
Newmarket
underground cellar, watching kangaroos and and red wine jus. Restaurant; a
sampling dishes that highlight the region’s best pineapple ginger
flavours. Be sure to order: On this seasonal menu, THE CELLAR KITCHEN RESTAURANT sour, Temple of
Tastes; the Cellar
try the Goulborn River Trout. Novotel Barossa Valley Resort Kitchen in Barossa
One of the best ways to take in the beauty of South Valley. OPPOSITE,
HARDY’S VERANDAH RESTAURANT (HVR) Australia’s Barossa Valley is at sunrise in a hot air CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP: Sydney's scenic
Mount Lofty House, MGallery balloon. Once your feet are back on terra firma, head Champagne Bar;
A site for lavish parties in the 1850s, Mount Lofty to The Cellar Kitchen Restaurant that has partnered mixing drinks at The
House is an historic estate that has been renovated to with Saskia Beer, an artisan food producer, cook and Ternary Bar; a
produce-driven
revive its original glory. With unbeatable views over food educator. The result? Sweeping views of the menu at The Muse;
the lush Piccadilly Valley, the three-chef-hat Barossa and the region’s best produce on a plate. — Hardy's Verandah
restaurant boasts Adelaide’s largest whiskey Be sure to order: Think slow roast free range chicken Restaurant; at
Hacienda Sydney;
collection and contemporary dishes that change daily. and caramelized onions, or Adelaide Hills grass fed, bouillabaisse at
Be sure to order: Do not miss the Wagyu brisket, a dry aged beef. Atelier by Sofitel.
house speciality.

HACIENDA SYDNEY
Pullman Quay Grand Sydney Harbour
Named one of the seven most Instagrammable bars
in the world, Hacienda is a playful step back in time
to the grand plantation architecture of Cuba. The
classic rum-based cocktails are punchy and fruit-
driven. Be sure to order: Prawn skewers with
sugarcane and coconut or black bean arancini.

TEMPLE OF TASTES RESTAURANT

Pullman Palm Cove Sea Temple Resort & Spa
There’s nothing quite like having a tropical cocktail
amongst palm trees, salt water and sunshine.
Signature cocktails at this far north Queensland
restaurant use locally sourced fruits, gin and smoked
sugar. The result is a candied pineapple ginger sour
that carries notes of incredible depth and provenance.
Be sure to order: Sesame crusted tuna. Enough said.

ALUCO RESTAURANT AND BAR

Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort & Spa
Overlooking a magnificent lagoon pool is the Aluco
Restaurant and Bar, a relaxed restaurant within
walking distance to secluded Four Mile Beach. Line
caught fish from the nearby Great Barrier Reef
features heavily on the seafood-inspired menu. For
that special champagne dinner, book the poolside. Be
sure to order: The crispy baby barramundi with

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 83

BR ANDS
Art Series-The
Blackman,
Melbourne,
Australia.
Art
Series
ART Inspired, Creative, Refined,
Personal & Engaging, Contemporary,
Distinct.
GETTING CREATIVE DOWN
UNDER Inspired by and dedicated to
Australian contemporary artists,
each Art Series property offers a
hotel experience a little
extraordinary. Located in the hottest
art and cultural hubs, the boutique
Art Series-The hotels are currently found in
Johnson, Brisbane, Melbourne, Brisbane and Adelaide.
Australia.
Each hotel takes design inspiration
from the namesake artist. With
84 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
original artworks and editions
adorning the walls and halls, the
multifaceted art inspired experience
is complete with dedicated art
channels, art libraries, art tours and
art utensils on supply.
Boasting personalised service and
sophisticated style, all suites
showcase up to the minute comforts
and technology with Art Series
signature bedding to ensure the
sweetest of sleeps. Experience an
extraordinary stay with Art Series
Hotels.
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
Art Series-The Blackman,
Melbourne, Australia;
Art Series-The Fantauzzo,
Brisbane, Australia
 FV by Peppers,
Australia.

Peppers
TICKET TO RIDE Indulgent,
Rejuvenating, Flexible, Memorable.

SPECTACULAR GETAWAYS The

Peppers brand has become
synonymous with a sense of refined
indulgence, an attention to detail and
excellent personal service. Explore an
irresistible, intriguing and indulgent
range of escapes selectively located in
some of Australia, New Zealand and
Indonesia’s most spectacular
destinations. From country estates to
relaxing beachside resorts, from
world-class golf resorts to romantic
vineyard retreats, Peppers combines
personal and friendly services with
exceptional food and wine.

SOME OF OUR FINEST: Peppers Soul

Surfers Paradise,
FV by Peppers, Australia; Peppers Australia.
Soul Surfers Paradise, Australia

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 85

BR ANDS

Mantra on Salt
Beach, Australia.

Mantra
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE
Personal, Casual, Trustworthy,
Relaxed

FEELING RIGHT AT HOME Whether

you’re travelling on business or
relaxing with family, you will feel
right at home with Mantra. With
hotels, resorts and self-contained
apartments on the coast and in the
city, you will always find the perfect
space in the ideal place. Across
Australia, New Zealand and Hawaii,
whether you want less hassle on
business trips or more good times on
holiday, Mantra makes room for you.

SOME OF OUR FINEST:

Mantra on Salt Beach, Australia;
Mantra Mantra South Bank, Brisbane,
Mooloolaba Australia; Mantra Lake Tekapo,
Beach, Australia.
New Zealand

86 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM


BreakFree
ONLY THE GREAT Great value.
Great locations. Great breaks.
LOCATION IS ALL Families, groups,
couples, from Australia or anywhere
in the world, recognise the style and
promise of a BreakFree offer. For
them, their stay is all about the
experience of the location and the
comfortable, unpretentious
BreakFree
Moroccan,
Australia.
accommodation and relaxed service
BreakFree on
they enjoy. Spacious, self-contained George, Australia.
apartment accommodation combines
value with access to the best beaches,
city highlights and holiday
attractions, making them ideal for
leisure seekers and corporate
travellers alike.
SOME OF OUR FINEST:
BreakFree Moroccan, Australia;
BreakFree on George, Australia
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 87
THE NEXT BEACH
LONG THE NEXT GREAT ISLAND, THESE DAYS PHU QUOC
REALLY IS ENTERING THE MAINSTREAM—AT ITS OWN PACE.
BY RON GLUCKMAN
THING

High above
the waters
surrounding
Phu Quoc.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 89

A
S THE CABLE CAR
slowly soars above
Pineapple Island, the
huge fishing fleet of Phu
Quoc comes into view,
hundreds of idyllic boats
swaying in a series of
stunning azure coves,
the entire scene
drenched by a golden
tropical sunset.
These squid boats from Vietnam’s southernmost
island are visible every night, green lights blazing on the
horizon to illuminate their way to the evening catch. For
decades, this has been the most captivating sight in Phu
Quoc, aside from the endless stretches of mostly
deserted, sparkling white sand.
Then, the world’s longest cable car started service,
above the southernmost point of Phu Quoc, offering
scenic rides to a string of islands in a gorgeous green
wilderness. The cable car not only put Phu Quoc in the
famed Guinness World Records book, but also signaled
the seriousness of investment pouring into this Rich
Land, as Phu Quoc translates.
For more than a decade, Phu Quoc has been touted
around the region as the new Phuket. The comparison is
apt, if only in scale: Phu Quoc is roughly the same size
Thailand’s world-renowned island getaway. Where Phu
Quoc could always boast of an abundance of natural
beauty, phenomenal beaches and scrumptious seafood,
Vietnam has taken a considerably slower tact in
developing its own island gem. FORMERLY A PLACE OF EXILE, and a prison, Phu Quoc
“I wanted to come visit five years ago,” says Lon, a was targeted as a holiday destination decades ago. In
young entrepreneur from Hanoi who I met one night. 2004, Vietnam designated it as a center of international
“But it was just so difficult to get flights.” Back then, the tourism, and launched plans for an international
only option besides boats, was flying first to Ho Chi airport. That opened in 2012, but the innovative
Minh, the only city with air connection to the island. He introduction of visa-free travel didn’t ramp up visitation,
said it was easier to travel to Singapore or Thailand. “We since there were, and still are few overseas connections.
were a family, and it was too much trouble.” Yet the slower pace has allowed ample time for
That’s not necessarily a bad thing, according to planning, and preservation. Unlike the pell-mell
Stefano Cazzola, an Italian who has been visiting Phu development of Phuket, Phu Quoc still feels like an
Quoc since the 1990s. His Asco Lotus travel company alluring tropical getaway, with its laid back and relaxing
specializes in Southeast Asia, and he’s seen boom times atmosphere. Phu Quoc National Park contributes 314
for tourism from Thailand to Cambodia, even little Laos. square kilometers of protected land with hundreds of
“Phu Quoc has gone slowly,” he concedes, “but it plant species (dozens of them rare and endangered),
remains as beautiful as in the old days. There isn’t which is more than half the area of Kien Giang reserve, a
another place like this in Southeast Asia, an island with unesco World Biosphere Reserve.
beaches like this, so beautiful and unspoiled. And now, The cable car-line stretches nearly eight kilometers,
with the airport and visa on arrival, Phu Quoc is going to and provides a scenic view of not only of the greenery,
take off. I have no doubt.” That’s never been more true, but another sight less commonly seen on Phu Quoc until
now that Air Asia has four weekly flights from Kuala recently: a long stretch of upmarket beachside resorts.
Lumpur to Phu Quoc. Long established on the backpack circuit, these new

generation of resorts are pushing Phu Quoc in many new
directions, as a family destination, and also for high-end
luxury holidays. One of the biggest developments is on
the western side of the island. This is where most of the
older Phu Quoc resorts are scattered along the idyllic
20-kilometer Long Beach.
South of this beach, a new area of luxury resorts
includes a sailing club that opened in November, and the
island debut of famed designer Ashley Sutton. An
Australian acclaimed for his inventive bars like Iron
Balls Distillery and Maggie Choo in Bangkok, and
Ophelia and the new Dragonfly in Hong Kong. For Phu
Quoc he created Ink 360, a rooftop bar with sunset views
and fantastic locally inspired octopus theme.
One of the most exciting new properties is Premier
Village Phu Quoc (accorhotels.com), an all pool villa
resort at the southern end of the island, not far from the
cable car. The 217 luxurious villas feature big deck, living
room and dining room, plus kitchenette, with gorgeous
views of beaches and seaside boulders. While the resort
comes with all the modern amenities and services any
Poolside at
Mövenpick
Resort Waverly
Phu Quoc.
traveler could ask for, the setting is what truly sets it
apart. Taking a page from the natural beauty of the
island, Premier Village is surrounded by lush tropical
forests and faces a seascape that boasts crystal clear
waters and beaches that are really pristine stretches of
white sand.
The resort joins two other Accor properties: Novotel
Phu Quoc Resort (accorhotels.com) in the center of the
island and close to the airport, and colonial-themed La
Veranda Phu Quoc, a 70-room boutique in the M Gallery
Collection, that was one of the first to bring an upscale
experience to the island on the very north side. This trio
makes certain that there is a resort for every type of
traveler, whether it’s a family vacation or a short,
romantic getaway.
In the pipeline are two other properties on the island.
Designed in a modern, airy style, the Mövenpick Resort
Waverly Phu Quoc arrives on the scene with 282 rooms
and 17 suites, plus 325 rooms and four two-bedroom
suites in a separate condotel. Twenty-five minutes from
the airport, there are also 79 private pool villas. The
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 91
 A colourful
escape.

Mövenpick will cater to families with three swimming

pools, two separate kids’ pools, and a kid and teens club.
Pullman Phu Quoc Beach Resort is located on the
west side of the island just 20 minutes from the
international airport. With 332 rooms designed with a
colourful and modern aesthetic, each with a sea view, the
resort is geared towards its beach and ocean front. Be
sure to check out the 40 deluxe executive villas—each
has a semi-private pool. Among the drinking and dining
options are a sunset bar, a grill and a welcoming area
around the main pool.
Still, around Phu Quoc, the main attractions aside
from simply relaxing include visiting a bee farm, pepper
plantation and fish sauce factories. The local Kampot
pepper used to be world famous, and is in the midst of a
revival on the mainland in Cambodia. Vietnamese still
flock to Phu Quoc in droves to tour factories producing
the pungent fish sauce, a mainstay in Vietnamese cooking.
While it may not be to everyone’s liking, consider that
it’s the local equivalent of wine tasting in France. A suite view at
Pullman
But it’s still easy, not to mention delightful to get lost Phu Quoc.
on Phu Quoc.

92 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM


Ibis
VIBRANT DESIGNS ibis embodies
forward-looking modern design: both
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real feeling of home way from home.
Each hotel has its own character to
create vibrant and fulfilling guest
experiences.
A BRAND NEW FLEXIBLE
COLLECTION OF VIBRANT SOCIAL
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the layout. Welcome areas and public
spaces are now flexible,
contemporary and cosy spaces with a
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Revolutionary desk-free mobile
check-in.
BR ANDS
Ibis Makassar
City Center,
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Ibis Singapore on
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TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 93
 MAGICAL
MYANMAR
DISCOVERING THE LAND OF THE GOLDEN
PAGODAS IS A STEP BACK TO ANOTHER ERA IN
ASIA, BUT ALSO A GLIMPSE OF WHERE THE
NATION IS HEADED IN THE COMING YEARS.
by rachna sachasinh

Ballooning
above the
ancient town
of Bagan.
 A pour at
the Rangoon
Tea House.
AFTER TOUCHING DOWN IN YANGON, I head straight to the
spiritual centre of Myanmar, Shwedagon Pagoda. “A golden house
will cast a spell,” a fortuneteller tells me as he adjusts his
spectacles and presses his nose toward my palm. We sit at the base
of the 105-meter golden stupa. Along the sidewalks, men in
traditional checkered longyis go about their business with swagger,
cranking ancient hand-powered sugarcane juicers, bundling betel
leaf concoctions, chopping coconuts. Graceful women in colourful
printed blouses and longyis, their faces painted with thanaka, sell
clothes and cheap electronic gadgets.
This city boasts the largest collection of colonial era buildings in
Southeast Asia. A walking tour by Yangon Heritage Trust
(yangonheritagetrust.org) takes me past the Port Authority, the
High Court and grand central train station. Buddhist pagodas,
F R O M TO P L E F T : C O U RT ESY O F R A N G O O N T E A H O U S E ; JAS O N GA L L A N T / G E T T Y I M AG ES .
Chinese and Hindu temples, churches, mosques and synagogues
pop up at every turn, revealing the city’s multicultural vibe.
Myanm/art (myanmartevolution.com), offers curated tours of the
vibrant art scene, one fuelled by a high regard for literature.
Yangon street food is a testament to its many roots, and I enlist
Marc Shortt, founder of Sa Ba Street Food Tours
O P P O S I T E : BA R C R O F T M E D I A / C O N T R I B U TO R / G E T T Y I M AG ES
(sabastreetfoodtours.com), to show me the ropes. We crisscross
central Yangon in search of lan ta ye moh, or gangster snack, which
consists of a South Indian dosa topped with local fresh vegetables
and chickpeas. Steamed dumplings in Chinatown included pheto si
kyet, or duck dumplings drizzled with spicy garlic oil, a Shan spin
on a traditional Chinese recipe. We fill our bellies on mohinga, a
fish-and-noodle soup thickened with roasted rice and chickpeas.
Laphet thoke, a fermented tea-leaf salad mixed with crunchy split
beans, cilantro and chillies, is a piquant Burmese invention. The
thoke repertoire includes rousing varieties, including lemon,
peanut, ginger and pennywort. “Many vendors don’t realize how
important they are to the character of the city,” Shortt tells me.
At upmarket tea houses like Rangoon Tea House (77-79 Pansodan
Street), artists, journalists, shopkeepers, businessmen and tourists
Shwedagon
Pagoda bathed
in beautiful light.
chat over the hiss and gurgle of the espresso
machines and snack on plates of fritters and
curry. At Root (Bo Myat Htun Street, lower
block) I dine on hearty beef stews and grilled
meats that are the backbone of ethnic Wa
cuisine from Myanmar’s northern hinterland.
Café Salween (G15, Maha Bandola Road) and
Bodhi Nava (17 Bahan Street 2) quench my
caffeine cravings and signal the city’s growing
affection for artisanal coffee.
When it is time to shop, I head for Bogyoke
Aung Sung Market (Bogyoke Road, Latha), a
maze-like indoor bazaar packed with antiques,
textiles and handicrafts, including made-to-
order longyi tailors. At Hla Day
(hladaymyanmar.com), a social enterprise, I
pick up fabulous folk art and village crafts.
And I peruse the head spinning gold pieces at
Turquoise Mountain (turquoisemountain.org/
myanmar), a British foundation that runs an
ethical studio where traditional toil.
A WOODEN SKIFF FERRIES me across Inle
Lake’s serene expanse in the northeastern
Shan State known for its staggering beauty and
slow-life mindset. Rugged mountains crowned
with gold-tipped pagodas shimmers in the
distance, swathes of brilliant green paddies and
floating gardens dot the shoreline. Inthar
fishermen row their wooden canoes standing
up while balancing long conical basket traps, an
iconic image of life on the lake.
Each day on the lake is better than the last.
A morning spent in Inle Treasure’s (Taunngyi,
TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 95
 Glimpses of Silhouette Man
the Irrawaddy Fishing Net On
dolphins. Lake At Sunset.
95-9/428371003) an antique wood-framed workshop, observing
women extract fine filaments from lotus stems and weave them
into luscious silk textiles; an afternoon gleaning vegetables from
floating gardens and learning to steam fish in banana leaves, mold
potato rice balls and chop savory tomato salad, the mainstays of
Inthar cuisine; a day exploring the abandoned pagodas at Indien, a
lost settlement sequestered nearly five kilometers down a hidden
channel. A timeless stroll down Nyaung Shwe’s weathered lanes,
the gateway city to Inle Lake, reveals a bustling trading town with
a frontier spirit and plenty of tidy teashops serving toothsome
Shan and Indian specialties.
I seek out the “five day market,” a local market that rotates
among five villages on the lake. Villagers and townsfolk travel by
boat, anchoring near shore in the biggest boat pile up I’ve ever
seen. Ethnic Pa-O women in red plaid headscarves, Padaung and
Inthar villagers do brisk business selling fresh vegetables, fruit,
handicrafts, silks, amulets, farm implements and live animals.
To the north, Inle Lake’s shores fold into a gently rolling
landscape dotted with magical valleys. I find myself sipping Pinot
Noir at Red Mountain Estate (redmountain-estate.com) and trekking
to scenic coffee plantations hanging in the clouds. I feel like I’ve
stumbled into a slice of Myanmar that was no different ten, twenty
or perhaps even a hundred years ago.
AT SUNRISE, I climb aboard one of Balloons Over Bagan’s
(balloonsoverbagan.com) rigs and drift across the dusty red plains
sprinkled with golden pagodas. In the eleventh century, King
Anawaratha, the first monarch to rule under the Pagan dynasty,
jump started a 300-year building spree to sanctify the kingdom’s
conversion to Buddhism. Over the next two centuries,
Anawaratha’s heirs erected more than 10,000 pagodas across these
104 square kilometers, with as many as 2,200 still standing. Bagan
is undoubtedly the poster child of “the land of pagodas.”
Coasting at cloud level may be the best way
to soak in Bagan’s transcendental landscape,
although being ferried from temple to temple
by horse cart isn’t bad either. Up close, Bagan’s
pagodas range from hulking Ananda complex,
with symmetrical prayer halls and iridescent
golden spires to quaint brick stupas, often with
horses grazing nearby and nimble hawkers
selling wooden puppets dressed in silks,
painted umbrellas, colourful bags and longyis.  
I also visit the city’s excellent artisan
workshops, where lacquer ware is an
institution. At Ever Stand
F R O M L E F T : G U Y B R OW N / A L A M Y STO C K P H OTO ; DA N I S H M U N JA L / E Y E E M / G E T T Y I M AG ES .
(everstandlacquerware.com), a family-run
operation, artisans demonstrated the process,
molding coiled bamboo and horsehair and
coating it with thit-si tree resin and finally
polishing it with wood ash. Traditionally,
O P P O S I T E F R O M L E F T : M J P H OTO G R A P H Y / A L A M Y STO C K P H OTO
lacquer masters are men, but Black Elephant
(blackelephantlacquer.com) is one of the few
spots run by women. MBoutik (Anawratha Rd.,
Nyaung-U), a social enterprise works with
village-based women’s cooperatives, producing
fabulous handicrafts, including rattan baskets
and rugs, hand-woven cottons and clothing,
toys and gorgeous stone jewelry.
Although the Irrawaddy River and a ribbon
of alluvial farmland marks Bagan’s western
boundary, the town falls within the rain
shadow of Myanmar’s dry zone, endowing the
landscape with a nostalgic, sepia-tinged aura.
Bagan is crisscrossed with meandering dirt
paths that connect homes and lead to
 Sweeping views
The Red Mountain at Sofitel Inle
Estate Vineyard. Lake Myat Min.

neighbourhood pagodas. At dusk, monks chant and locals arrive to and pagodas shimmer on the river, and finally,
light candles and incense. In these hidden corners, Bagan glistens I feel part of “The Land of Golden Pagodas.”
like gold. As my trip draws to an end, I can’t help but
wonder what lies in store for this embattled
THE RHYTHMIC POUNDING of hammers and swirling flecks of nation and its creative, resilient people. When
gold dust invoke a magical scene as I stroll through a knot of it’s time to leave, I don’t want to go. The
narrow alleys in Mandalay’s old quarter. I stumble into a fortuneteller’s premonition came true. I find
neighbourhood filled with dozens of home-based workshops, myself in a house of gold and am spellbound.
where muscular men hammer pebble-sized pieces of gold into thin
sheets of gold leaf. This two-block area, I learn, supplied the nation
with most of the gold leaf for its golden pagodas. Mandalay may be
WHERE TO STAY from the city outside.
known for its dust and din, but this city is surprisingly charming. Pullman Yangon accorhotels.com; rooms
Countless local bazaars, including the mind-boggling Zey Cho Centrepoint In the from US$99.
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spices from the far corners of the nation. At Mahar Aung Myay’s quarter, with stunning Min A dreamy boutique
views of Sule Pagoda’s resort surrounded by
centuries-old jade market, above-board and bootleg traders and golden paya and Maha rice paddies and
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from US$100. accorhotels.com; luxury
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Grand Mercure
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Local teahouses—a Mandalay institution—also pay tribute to painted ceiling inspired Mandalay. Perched at
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Novotel Yangon Max
In Mandalay, the Irrawaddy steals my heart. I spend hours on Close to all things offer a birds-eye view
the waterfront watching dockworkers haul fish, rice, sugarcane, cultural, the hotel uses of the temple dotted
contemporary design landscape and the
bricks, ceramics and even TVs on and off old-fashioned wooden slow-moving Irrawaddy.
and modern
barges. An excursion with Living Irrawaddy (burmadolphins.com) accessories to provide accorhotels.com; rooms
brings me up close with the river’s endangered dolphins. By dusk, guests with a break from US$122.
the last rays of sunlight cast a golden light. Dolphins, boats, nets

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / JUNE 2019 97

BR ANDS

ibis Styles Bangkok

Khaosan Viengtai,
Thailand.

ibis Styles
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Ibis
Styles
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Khaosan Viengtai, Thailand

98 JUNE 2019 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

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