BUILDING WOODEN MACHINES Gears & Gadgets for the Adventurous Woodworker “ZaN 28 ge Step-by-Step iJ a fe piste‘Copyrighted Material BUILDING WOODEN MACHINES sta Gears & Gadgets for the Adventurous Woodworker Alan & Gill Bridgewater is ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material ‘Ths sumors and editors who comBEN tls none nave tried tm ‘make all the contunts as aocurate and currect as possitve. Plans, ‘mustrations, photographs and text have been carstily checked. ‘All Instructions, plans and projects should be cazetully read, stud- sed and undarstaod before beginning ponstruction. Due to the var- ‘slury af ioeal pumatians, construction misterials, ial levels, 6, ‘netiner tua authors nor Betterway Rocks assumes eny respans!- [bflty dor any anoidents, inurles damauescar otber lasses incurred ‘esuing trom tne material presanted in tis back Depicarion ‘We would lke to dedicate this book to all the men and women of {he past—invantors, anginears clockmskars and tha Wwe—mno Sent COUNHeSs DOUTs in WOrKsnOps-maxing Ue marines and ‘working models in wood. Weal know ahout Leonardada Vino! and {his elicogter, and Stevenson and nig ooa, wae who wast [wonder ‘home tha frst working modelo, say,the Net pamloex? Othe {ust pair of llersiates? ‘ACENOWLEDGMENTS ‘We would Iiee to tank all the mamunctarers who have supplied ‘us wlth th est af the best: ‘Tum Ettam, Procioent, Wood Carvers Supply, PO. Bor 7500, ‘Engiewood, FL34285-7500 ‘Wood Carving Toals ‘Jim Brewar, Research and’Marksting Manager, Freud, PO. Box ‘7B? 218 Faia Ave, Hg. Patnt, WE2 7268 Auster rare ‘William Welsen, President, Foredom Blactric, Bethel, PT D6S01 ‘Pemer Toals John F Jowan, Vice Pres dant, Datta International Machinery orp. 246 Alpha Dr, Fitshurgh, PA 15236-2885 want sar Mick Davidson, Managing Disector,Cratt Supplies Lid UE, The ‘BOM, Milars Dale, Burton, Derbysntre, SII? ASN, UK ‘Wood Taming em Frets, Marketiog Assistant, De-Sta-Co, PO, Box 2800, Twos, ‘ect anco7 camps Paragon Communiestions, Evo-atie2, Common ond, StatTard, STIG SEH, UE PVA amesive Frank Dootz, Punic Relations, Ryobi America Corporation, 5201 Pearman Dairy Ra, Suite, PO. Bor 1207, Anderson, SC 2e622-1207 ‘mateeness Planer ‘Most al, we would Ie to MsDK Friearicn Wimeim Emmerich 0 Fmenich Planes, Harderstiabe7, Remscheld, Germany — ‘for nis Beawtital wooden planes, They are special! Ityau are ooigng to set yourself up with tanest of au modern planes, man {these are the ones ta god ‘Commrigiied MaterialCopyrighted Material 4 Introduction 6 PROJECT * PROJECT 8 Circular Movement Centrifugal Machine & Impeller Pump 74 PROJECT 2 PROJECT 8 Harmonic Oscillation ‘Sector Wheel Bearing Punch Machine 17 Machine 83 PROJECTS PROJECT 10 Cam & Fork Flywheel Propeller ‘Machine 29 Machine 92 PROJECT 4 PROJECT 11 In-the-Round Pyramid Roller-Ball Combustion Engine 39 Machine 102 PROJECTS PROJECT 12 ‘Ward Lock & Key 50 Rack & Finion Machine 111 PROJECT 6 PROJECT 13, Reciprocating Pendulum Recoil Engine 56 Escapement —_ Machine 118 PROJECT? PROJECT 14 O11 Pumping Rig 66 Flywheel & Governor = Machine 130 Copyrighted Material ti => BS fe F &Copyrighted Material PROJECT15 Cam Machine 142 PROJECT 16 Steam Crank Slider Mechanism 153 PROJECT 17 Differential Pulley Block 162 PROJECT 18 The Excentric Squirrel Fan 173 PROJECT 19 Six Valve Radial Engine 180 PROJECT 20 Wheel & Worm Gear Mechanism 153 PROJECT 21 Film Advancing Mechanism 192 PROJECT 22 The Universal Joint 203 fe =: Camshaft Valve 215 PROJECT 24 ‘Water Lift Pump 229 PROJECT 25 Lever & Ratchet ‘Mechanism 239 PROJECT 26 Screw Jack 248 8 PROSECT 27 ‘The Bicycle Chain Machine 250 FROJECT 28 ‘The Wonderful ‘Wilmburst Machine 269 Index 278 Copyrighted Material ru a { wih & 2 @Copyrighted Material Introduction >My grandpa used to tell my mather that was ana af thasa complicated sticky-tingerad litle bays who needed watch- ing! He always used to say that | wasup te tricks and lesm- ing. As Iremember, all this meant, in etfect, was that 1 was borrowing tools without permission, usually missing at meal times, and generally difficult to track down. It wasn't that Lwas in any way naughty of up to no good, but rather that [was always “inventing” I made a cross bow that was more @ Jethal man tap than a weapon, an electric alarm slock that couldn't be touched unless you were wearing rubber gloves, a lever mechanism for the gate that very noarly skinned and quartered the neighbor's cat, and sa tha st goes on. So You see, it wasn't that I was. horble ittia hoy bent on mischlet, but only thet I loved mechanisms and enjoyed working with tools and wood, Iwas never se happy as when Twas tucked away in the back shed hacking away with knife and saw on one or other ‘of my lahour saving inventions. ‘And of course, novrthat Lama man and fully gravm, ona ‘of my chief pleasures is being out in my shed workshon reaming up nave mechsnisms. But I'm not alone! Tha mi- raculous thing, the thing that makes our marriage sa suc cessful, is that my wife Gillis a soul mate, a true kindred spirit. We both get pleasura working with wood. Picture us A you will, out in our workshop, the radio humming away, ‘our two dogs fast asleep in a couple of ancient armchairs, ‘uugs of tea, both of us up te our armpits th a glorious ‘miaoma of tools, shavings, beeswax, wood and working drawings. Qurshed workshop is a havent And now that our two sons are out of the nest, it doesn’t matter toa much it ‘wespend most of the night working. It we are tized but still ‘willing, we simply settle down in the armehairs urith a knife and whatever part neads sorting, and drift and dream away the hours. The incredible thing is that at the end of it all—after hour upon hour spent sawing, planing, gouging, turning, whittling and waxing—we gat ta make the most ‘amazingly intricate machines and mechanisms, Our ambitions involve sharing with you the pleasures of ereating small machines and mechanical pratotypes from ‘wood. We want you to shaze in tha fun. The projects ara ‘small, $0 You don't need a vast workshop full of tools or a fortune in wood; all you need Is enthusiasm. ‘with aach of the projects, we take you through all the ‘wonderfully satisfying procedures of chaosing the wood, setting out the designs, sewing, plsning. drilling and all the Test. We give you working drawings and templates to ex- plain how, why and whatavith. There are drawings shaw= ing details, and there are photographs to explain the ‘various step-by-step stages. We have done our best to de- scribe all the procedures that go into making our working wootlen wonders. Each project draws inspiration from a specific mecha~ ism, There are twenty-eight projects in all—all exciting, all dynamic, all beautiful and all made fram wood, Note ‘At! moasuremonts are in aches, and the sizes allow fora ‘gencrows amonnt of waste, Tha cimensions tm tho eurting Itets ave givan in tho ordar tf thisknees, width and length As with any ‘wooden sculpture, the dimensions indicated are starting pois ‘only, Modily dimensions, spacers and parts as necessary. Copyrighted Material OOUCTION. FCopyrighted Material PROJECT 1 Circular Movement Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘This machine is amazingly interesting in thet it basutifully fllustrates one of the kay principles of herology. it shows how, in the context of a traditional grandfather-type clock, a pulley drum, length of cord and weight are able—like a coiled spring—to store up and provide enaray. ‘The movement is handsomely direct and uncomplicat- ‘Od, As the weight falls at a constant rato, so the drum-and- beam flywheel spins at a uniform speed on its pivot: Tha fascinating thing is that the position of the pill-shaped ‘weights on the beam dramatically alters the speed of spin. To set the machine into motion, the cord fs wound up. vwrith the crank handle, the two bear weights are adjusted 50 they are equidistant from the center of spin, and the non ‘weight is allowed to descend. It you have a yen w play around with heam weights, crank handles and pulley ol ‘weights, and it you enjoy a good working mix af woad tumn- ng, fretting on the scroll saw and drilling, thie might well be the project for you. @ CIRCULARMO PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a lack atthe project picture (right), the working draw= ing (Fig 1-18) end the templates (Pig 1-16), and see that we hava designed the machine so st can be easily positioned on the edge of @ surface. The idea is that the machine can be lecatad on.a mantle shelf or the ergs of a table in sucha ‘way that the bob welght can fall three or four fest lower than the baso of the machine, Although at first sight this project may look almost too simple to be true, I think it fair to warn you that turning the ‘beam boss with its integral pulley wheel and spindie, plus turning, drilling and fitting out the tong, sausaye-shaped ‘ob weight, araall procedures that call for a deat of patience ‘andl expertise, There are several points along the way that require delicate work if you are to avaid mess-ups, For ex- sample, the fit of the spindle needs to be just so—not too noes, not t2o tight, Also, the bob weight hole has ta ran straight and true. ifthe drill bit vaars a little off-center, you have got a dowal with a gash in the side—not a pretty sight! Copyrighted MaterialCopyrighted Material CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE @ Copyrighted MaterialCopyrighted Material CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE WORKING DRAWING Copyrighted Material FIGURE 1-18 ‘ata grid seala of ewa squares to, the machine stands about 197 Righ and site over 84° wide across the span of the baa rad.opyrighted Mate! CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE TEMPLATES: FIGURE 1-18 ‘The soaleis twa rid ‘squares ta. Crankhandle 9 eiCopyrighted Material @* B12 piten pine ies dnean B'—"/" pale wood dowel 2x28 pine B= tol ‘wt woes dove ieee CHOOSING YOUR wooD Although we went for pitch pine for the base, stand, but tress support and boss spindle, a length of off-the-sheit pale wood dowel tor the weight, and ods and ends of varl- ‘ous white wood dowel for the handies and fixing pegs, this, fs not to say yau can't go for almost any wond that takes your fency, There are two provisos the heb weight is best mada from a heavy, dense wood, while the bogs spindia needs to be made fram a wood that is straight grained and sesy te turn, Thatsaid—and:mindful that well ought to ba using nature-frisndly, sustainable timbers—you could go for a variety like lime, jalutong or perhaps aven boach. My overall thinking is that if the wood is easy to work, not toa expensive, free from knots, splits, warps and stains, and froma reputable source, i's the right timber for the task. MAKING THE BASE, BACKBOARD AND CRANK HANDLE ‘Study the working drawing (Fig 1-LA) and templates (Fig 118). Draw the protiles to size and make lear tracings oO Sat to work carefully cutting out tha nroféles. ‘Take the two cutouts—the stand and crank—and make Sure the pasition of all the hales is clearty ‘established with punched center points (Fig 1-IB), You ‘eed center points for the '/e"-dtameter spindle bearing at the top of the stand, the four l'/e-diameter hind holes that decorate the front of the stand, the/<" hale at the feenter of tha crank for the spindle, and the twa ‘ve~diameter holes at the ends af the crank forthe handle dowels. aa CIRCULAR MI ‘With all the center points cl With the appropriate bit size, Warning: for Safety's sake, |! the bit size ie greater than'/", have the workpiece held vnith a clamp (Figs -2 and 1-3). ‘TURNING THE BEAM WEIGHTS ‘Having established the ond centers by drawing crossed diagonels, mount the wood on the lathe, ‘draw up the tallstoc set tha too] rest at the correct ‘height, and see tot that all your tools ave within reach. ‘ake the large gouge, either square ended arround ‘nosed, and swiftly tum down the 2° * 2" squara Section af wood th tha largest possible diamater, With the woot! roughed aut, take the skew chisel and bring the ‘wood! to a smooth cylinder. Starting with the two beam disks, or pucks, and ‘working from right to left aiong the workpiece, FIGURE 1-2 (Clamp the workpiece secursty to the workable, and run the blind ‘holes in to the depth of the hand of the Forster bit, FIGURE 13 aves ploce of waste wood under the warkpisce—we uiea chest ‘of plywoed—s0-yon con dril right throngh the workplsce wthont ‘doing damage to the bit Tha waster also ensures that the exit ‘holes crisp and clean edged. Copyrighted MaterialCopyrighted Material meaning from the tailstock end, take the dividers and, ‘mark all the sten-offs that make wp the design, Allow about 'i" for tailstock waste, 1" for the first disk, '/«" for part-off waste, 1" for the secand disk, and then a tinal ‘stall amount for part-off waste. ‘with the twa disks carefully marked, take the parting tool and sink the waste areas to a depth ot about '/e" 50 you are lett with & core diameter of about /2" Taka sk chisel and use hs oo pin 0 Fe tis reste mies fork dik The ph nl ata tinh stn yt comets of was. Am or lay rude pote Te lard the parting west then med of sry comers and then founded och thy couldn (gs 4 and 15) ane nal newt trying omen wo he later ie FIGURE1-4 ‘Tourn tt tho round shower, sa the shaw eles! Hat on toe ‘workpiece, stowfy twist he to! unti the back or net atthe bade Ibogins tos, and then munis continncus neasp down and ound into the valley, FIGURE 1-5 ‘Moving turnod off facing shoulders, taka the pasting tool and ‘depen the parting waste te reves! and define the fat fare ot tne disk Finally, when yau have what you considers a Wall-matehed pair of disk-shaped weights, bring them to a smooth finish withthe skew chisel anda piece of fine-grade sandpaper, and part oft ‘TURNING THE INTEGRAL SPINDLE, CORD DRUM AND BOSS Check your wood over for feults and mount it securely on the Inthe. Aetna i mocha ig Fa cose crouse out pind ont the akew eis cottage erat nh en par dividers and mera eet hat maka the dosion Woking fom thatch eal a sal amour er talstck waste, forth sn tt ha drum fr theogt once ten he drm an the ost hons an thet chuck wast ace ene um with aiine ‘Take the parting too! snd lower the waste between the various step-off points to achieve the required ore diameter (Pig 1-8), For exemple, if we take that you ara starting aut with a 2"-diameter eylinder, than you mead to lower the spindle by */1°for a*/2* core, the dram by sbout '/s" for a1'/s" core, the area of spindle between tha ‘boss and the drum by alittle over®/s" fora “/at core,and the boss by #4" for a 11/«* care (Fig 1-7). ‘With each of the step- offs lowered to the required. epth, take the tool of your cheice—Titke using a skew chisol—and shape up the various profiles (Fig 1-8) ‘The boss and the drum and the length af spindle in botwoen can be turned taany shape that takes your taney, but the spindle shaft must be turned down s0 it is smooth fit in a /?-diamater hole, 1 yau can’t use a ‘e" del but, turn your spindle shtt to the nearest sizeCopyrighted Material FIGURE 1-7 ‘Low the step-otfs until you reach the care diameters ef." for ‘the pind, 17+" for the drum, about */«" for the longth of spindle ‘between the drum and the boss, and 3° for the boss. o When you hava tumed the various profiles tb size and shape and rubbed t ‘with.a scrap of sandpapet, carefully asa the tailstock sm.down toa smonths finish enter out of the w: nrongh th ‘nuindtu] that it needs to be a goad, smooth-Tunning tit Wig 8) ‘Ta part off, hold and cradle the workpiece in one hand, and carefully nip 1 chisel (Fig 1-10) ua ‘nally, set the rag-mulfled spindle in the jaws of the quck—the rag being used to protect the spindle from crush damage~and sand the part-off point down to a ‘smooth finish th the tag of the skew MAKING AND LOADING THE BOR WEIGHT Before you put Working drawing (Fig I-lA) and templates (Fig 74 Note how the weight needs ta i long and thn so it can pass hetween the stand and the spinning beam weights, ‘wihileat the same tima ft must he haavy. Consider how we ddriiled out a length of /-diameter davrel and loadad st ‘with lengths cut from a 6" nail thor look at the i ‘Take your 6" length of ?/“"-diameter dowel and chock it over for faults, it is warped, split, stained, less than perfect, or in. any wa ct anothar plore, FIGURE LS ‘The partially turned workpines, showing (from left to right) me ‘base, long et decorative splnte, dram and oploie shaft. Wet ‘at, a this stage, we wore still undecided as tow we wanted ‘the boss to be finally shaped. = FIGURE1-8 ‘With the workplace stil secure ia the jaws ofthe chuck, draw ‘back tno taflstoek and have a trial iting of the spindle shaft ‘through the bearing hole, Be very carafal not to fot the turning off-center, FIGURE 1-10 (When you have achieved what you consider is a good, watl- ‘ntatad turning, ze th ‘the Inthe, Re careful that tha toe of the chisel dacsa't slip between ‘the workpiece and tool rest ff tho shew ehisol te part off trom Copyrighted MaterialFIGURE 1-11 ‘Secure the dowel soit is perfectly aligned with the drill and run .4¢<"-dlamaotar hole down to the fall depth of the Bit. Do this from ‘oth ends of te deat, ra Copyrighted Material Run a?/s'-diameter hole down through the length af the dowel, Bore the hole down into ana ¢nd—to the Tull length of the Bt—and then turn he wood aver and repeat the procedure tor tha other end (Fig 1-1). ‘With the holes in place—either right thrawgh the dowel ar at least a good way into each end—cut one ormore lengths trom a 6" nei, and load it to within about a/¢" of the ends Push alength of split and glued®/s* dawel into the end hole~hoth ends~tap 2 shaved wedge into the lita stopper, and put itto one sida to dry (Fig 1-12 right, One end at a time, secure the loaded dowel in the iaws of the lathe chuck, and use the skew chisel and the graded sanddpapers to tum it down ta a round-ended. shape—tike a torpedo (Fig I-12 left). Finally, cut and tinish all the secandary components: the buttress at the back of the stand and all the tittle pins and pegs. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING With all the component parts meticulausly cut and worked (Pig 1-18), and with all unglued surfaces Lightly otled, sat the stand on the base saitis flush with the front edge and aligned withthe center line, and draw in.couple of disctwet elignment marks OVEMENT MACHINE 38Copyrighted Clamp the stand lightly to the bese, and run 1/¥-dlameter peg-tixing Roles down at an angie— ‘tyrough the feet and on into the bage, The Best procedure {sto dri one foot, secure it with a peg, and then repeat the technique far the other side, Re aware that because the feet are shart grained, they are relatively tragie. Note don’ glue the pege at this tral itting stage ‘Take the huttress piece and sat it firmly against the back of the-stand, When you feel there is good, tight, right-angle coming-together af the three components, fit with.» dowel (Fig 1-14), ‘Take the boss spindle and the beam waights and, one piece at a time, secure them in an appropriate sslamp-and-bleck jig Drill out the 4e'-diameter holes for the besm rod. Make sure the holes are aligned at right ‘angles to the run of the gran Dritl two '/="-diameter hholes—one into the drum for fixing the cord and the ‘other through the side of the erank and inte the spindle (ig 1-15), ‘When you have fitted the stand to the base and the spindle is sitting eamfartably in place at the tap at the stand, pusia fit the '/«"beam dowel through the boss (Pigs 116, 117 and 118}. set the weights on the bear. fit, the langth of fine cord and the weight, and then havea trial run. Copyrighted Material FIGURE 114 Fit and fix the stand ta thease, ‘and thon brace with the buttress, FIGURE 115 ‘Build clamp-and Block jigs far the difticalt-to-hotd componente that need tobe drilled. Minimize the risk of splitting the wood by having the Doles vet aerees the mum of the grain. PROBLEM SOLVING "The whole success ofthis project hinpas om the spindle shatt ‘lng asmoath frictian-fes tt through thetop-of-stand ‘heating hole Try wing the contsctsuriecas, FIGURE 1-17 Posstha shaft through the bearing hole, set tn cram on the shaft and fit andthe wits round toothpick. FIGURE 1-18 Fitthe wight an the and of tha cord, and nae trial mum. I need ba reduce the ‘ction by waxing the shaft amd all the other maving mating faces. MaterialCopyrighted Material PROJECT 2 Harmonic Oscillation Punch Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘The oscillation punch macht gem to make With its intriguing movemant and attractive structure, tts the sort ‘bf machine that is just asking tobe set inte action! As to the name of this maching itis not sa easy tacoma up with 2 clear-cut definition or meaning. OK, no prablem ‘with the term oscillation punch—it simply describes tha up-and-down punch action that is created by the osciliat (de-to-side. movement of the sector weight—but ne tartn harmonicis a bit afastickler, [reckon it ing to do with symmetrical, harmonic frequency, ot sure. Have you got any ide ‘The best way to operate this machine is to nut ye forefinger in the sector weight hole and to {liek it rapidly from side to side, If everything ie right, the swift side-ta- side movement should result in the punch joggting up down. PROJECT OVERVIEW Have 6 look at the working drawing (Fig 2-14), the tem: lates (Fig 2-18) and the various photographs, and youl ‘pee that this project is somewhat complicated in that it is made up of a large number of small moving pasts. This is not to say that each component is in itself difficult to cut— far from {t—but rather that the sum total of putting al the 3 require alot of thinking and a tot of Study the working drawing (Fig 2-14), and consider how the mechine {s made up of the primary units; a hasa vith @ low, glue-tived hackhoard, 8 high, round-tapped backboard with a pivot rod location slot and various pivot holes, a plate and spacer to hald tha sector, the swinging sector weight itself, the connecting rod, the pivoted crass head joint and punch, and the bracket In action, ag the sector weight awrings to the side, the ing rad rises, which in f supporting bracket. And, of course, as the sector comes ta Test in the midpasition, the punch goes dave in its bracket. The best bit about cha action, meaning the way the parts move. is the way the loose-fit crosshead joint at the bottom nf the connecting rod is kept in place by the pivot pin that passes through the unit and into the backboard slot lifts the punch in its Copyrighted Material’ = " c "7HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 48 HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINECopyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE‘Copyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 0 HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 2-1A, ‘Ata grldscaleattwosquames tb, ma:macuine stands ‘abowt 01/2" nigh ond & whe ‘acrosstha span af the base. HARMONIC OSCILLATIONPUNCHMACHINE: HL ‘Comsrighied Matetial‘Copyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 2-18 ‘Tho scale is four grid squares (oY Mot tut wanave ony muastrame tasaimenat-tn- ‘visualize components. A Toll round-torped bseoerd, 2 Specer 0 From plate DD Crosebead joint Bracket F Sector weight @ Cooecting md ‘Copsrighied Matetial‘Copyrighted Material (CUTTING LIST A Tatjound topped ecknoara ax 7fs0uk CHOOSING YOUR WOOD ‘Wedertded to emphasize and draw attention to the various parte by using two strang-grained fancy woods. We usod Spanish olive for the hortzontsl backboard, the comecting rod, and the middle layer of the laminated crosshead joint, ‘andi a piece nf uncharacteristic English ak far the rest. MAKING THE BASE AND BACK BOARDS Having carefully studted the working drawing (Fig 2-14) and templates (FigZ-1B), take the two 6"-long lsces af wood—the oak at */e" thick end 4" wide, end tha olive at "/*" thick and 22/4" wide—and the 7'/s"-long, 3*-wide board, and use the pene!) zuler, square and ompassae to mark ell the Lines that make-up the design. Spend time carefully marking in the posttian of the center lines, the main pag and pivatholeg and any ther guidelmes you think will help you on your way When you are sure all the guidelines are well placed, use the tonls af your choioe tm cat the thras boards ta shape and size, Pag and glue the Jaw backboerd to rtahasa, chacke with a equere, secure with clamps, and put ito ane ide until the glue Ls set a Having cur the tall backboard out on the scroll saw, establishthe position of the twa top holes—tha ‘44"-diameter parvot hole andthe (/«'-diamater wedge-poy. ‘hole—and dill them on the drill press, mally, when you have achieved whet yau think is 2 good iit and finish of the three beards, sat tha tall backboard on the basa and draw in e couple of alignment marks (Fig 2-2) MAKING AND FITTING THE SECTOR PLATES Hava a good, long look at the working drawing (Fig 2-18) and photographs, and nota how this project 18 ‘perhaps slightly unusual m tht all the emall parts are cur cout on the scrall saw. ‘When youhave a clear understanding of how-tha Parts fit togather, talte the twa 5/:"-thick piaces of bak that make up the sector support—the spacer and the front plate—end use the compasees rular and enft'no. 2 ‘pancil to draw the dasign on the best-looking piece. ‘With the twa piaoas of wood clamped sacurely ‘tngather, establish the posttinn of the sector pivat hhole, and dil with the '/" drill bit Push alength of" dowel through the pivathole to hhold the two pieces of wood together, and cut the ‘wedigeliie shapa out on the scroll saw (Fig 2-8) FIGURE 2-2 ‘Mama sure tno backed 18 sot at right angles amd atkynod wrt ‘Maconterline. HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 23. ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material Have atrial fitting of the two cutouss on tha backboard (Pig 2-4). Pix the pasition of the wedge- ‘pag hole centar point, and mark on the spacer plata the area thatneeds to becut away With the pivot pin still in place, use thee" dri bit ‘to ram the wedge-pog hole through tha twa places af wood. Nate: dont forget to hack up the workpiace when, Srilling witha piace of sorep wood to pravent tearout. Having achieved two identical cutouts, teke the one thatis to be sandwiched between the front plate and ‘the backboard and cut eway the waste, the whola 2/"-damatar otrela with the '/"-diameter pivot hale, Cut a plece af.’ dowel ta langth—so it passes through the sector plate, the spacer end tha hackboard—saw a plot about '/:" down mto the end of tha Sowel, and Imtfe cuta shavingof waste ta fit ‘Align the dowel sn the wadge slot runs across the grain, end have a trial fitting just to soefthe wedge ‘holds the tenon in place in ite hole (Fig 2-5). CUTTING AND LAMINATING ‘THE CROSSHEAD JOINT ‘Jakethe thres pisces of wood thatmake upthe crosshead joint—tha twa piocas of oak at about '/i" ‘thick end the piace of clive at about Y/e" thick—and sandwich them togsther so the oliveisthe filmy and tha (rain rung vertically up and down, Mark the three layers “op! “middle and “bot! Draw the design on tha top hoard, forthe postion of the center point, and then tap a pin through the waste azea ta Link all thrae layers, FIGURE 2-5 ‘Aga the stat sot runs at right angles tothe grata, andhave a ‘tial ting of he weoge Irall scarrect,a push It shen be ‘enaugh to held the tone firm. FIGURE 2-6 ‘Saw througn the thres-Layared stackte achieve tre identical ‘eutoate, Moto bow my beavy-handod mall ining Wary moarty resulted. ‘tn acomplote mess-1p—ith aspilt rumniag along the grain. ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material PIGUREZ-7 “ete, Run the 4"-diameter pivot hale through all three layers and push home a ganerous length of 3/3" sowel (Fig 2-6) go Werh all thres layers of wood held secure hy both the pin and the dovel, fret out the shape on the scroll saw. When you have achieved the cutout and carefully removed the dowel so you have three layers, mark on the middle layer the area that needs to be cut away a27). FICUREZ-8 ‘Smear Glas en:muating faces, align the Boles with the pivet dowel, ‘and than caratany clamp up. oO Cut away the waste, replace the dowel, and then gine and clamp the three layers ta make up the unit (Fig 2-8), When tha glue is dry, rum a ¥¢"-chameter hola ‘through the base of the companent, and hava atrial fitting nf the punch rad, MAKING THE BRACKET AND SECTOR Have alook at the warking drawing (Fig 2-1A) and ‘templates (Fig 2-IB), and seshow thetwo components—the bracket and tha sector—are simple {flstwood profiles that are cut out on the ecrall saw, ‘Take the */'-thick piace of wood youve set aside for ‘thebracket and use the panetl, ruler and compasses ‘to mark ellthe linge that make up the design. Batablish the position of tha punch rod hole, and run 1 through with tha3/s"-diametar drill at. Nota: be ‘munciful thet the precise position of the bracket hole, magning its distance frum the backboard, will relate to the finiehed thicknesses of the sactor, the connecting rod and ‘the crnssheed joint: If you are at all unsure as ta the finished size5 youcan make the bracket at a later sta cor youcan allow extra depth ta the-bracket, and than tram back wi, ‘When yowhave double-checked that all is correct, ut gut the bracket an tha soroll saw. ‘Take the pisca of wood for the sector weight—all marked aut and measured and with aclear cantar ine—end give it nother look-over, just to make sure the ‘three holes ara well placed Na problem with the 7/4" ‘duameter finger holo—1t can ‘be just shout anywhers on ‘the center Ime—but thetwo/#’ pivatholesnesd careful Positioning The top pivot hole must be at the center of wing, meaning at the center of the +/«"-dlemoter circa of ‘wood, while the cannecting red pivot hole must he centered ahowt’/:" up from the bottom of the arc HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE #5 ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material With all the lines and canter points in-place, and having carefully chacked for accuracy, drill the three hholes on the drill press—'/4" diameter for the twa pivat hholes and /.’ diameter for the finger hole (Fig 2-9). Lastly, but out the proiila on the sorall saw. MAKING THE CONNECTING ROD ‘Jake the '/"-thick piece of olive you've put aside for ‘the eonnecting md and markit with a canter line ‘that runsin the direction of the grain. Mark the line with ‘two canter pointe thet ere 1'/2" apart, and draw in all the lines that make upthe dasign—the twa 7/’ cucles and the 9A" width ta the rod. o Run the two canter points through with a /¥'-diemater dri bi, and then have a trial fitting to Unk up the sector and the crosshead joint (Pig 2-10). If ‘eed be,reduce the thickness and diamater of the battom. ‘endef tha rad so :t1 m goad, lone fit hetwaan the ears of ‘the crosshaed (Pig 2-11) Having cur the profile cutan the scrollsaw, take a ‘small, sharp knife and set ta wark whittling the straight part of the rod to a roundish section. The best technique (sto bet the circls lime tn with a stop-cut—on hhoth sides of the wood and at bath ends—and than to ‘carefully slice the blade into the stap-cut sp the waste falls eway If you work with a careful, thumb braced Baring cut, you wonthave any problems with the Inife suipping (Fig 2-12) BG HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE FIGURE 2-10 ‘Mave trial Miting of bet tae socter wrakgat and the parttathy ‘worked connecting rod. Adjust the various taickesses 20 tho moevoment is smeoth and easy. FIGURE 2-11 ‘Tomutmtze frictin, adjust the taickness of te wood at me ‘end of the rod and tnsida the ears a tae ena. Use & twtst ot ‘sandpaper tn eusare that the end-f-rod hole Is aleose fitonthe 17 ¢-ataqmotar dowel, FIGURE 2.12 ‘Deo. tight, Cam-braeod partag ext te who tne red te a round ‘section, Werk from thecantor through to the stap-cat: ‘Commrigiied MaterialCopyrighted Mater When you have roundad end slightly lawared the roundsection en the flat faces of the end circles tend slightly im relief, wee a scrap af sandpaper and rubs down the knife-worked areata a smooth finish, ‘Take the tall, round-topped backboard and mark, drill andeut the various holes andthe crosshead pivot runnerslat PICUREZ-13 (Ccese te parts ever fur Sizws and blecuishes. Tura a damaged ‘apo away po tho Naw is niga fram viow. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING When you have completed ll the component parts Sol hat makoup the project (Fig 2-13), thon comas tha fun of trying ‘to get everything togethar so it works! When you ere happy with the overall finish, glue and pay the Jow backboard to thehasaso it's at right angles It's important that everything is square, Sect hoard plac nthe bse esac FE rer raat cath whole wets together with a couple of ¥/\'-diamater dowel pegs (Fig 26) ae tu poge rnc cag ler es trod We tha daa weld to pevethetinittheswing of tevedor weight Slide the end of the connecting rod anta the crosshead joint, push the dowel pivot in place, and check for a smooth, caey fit (Fig 2-16) Iteed be, reduce ‘the wooden therod and, mn tha rad hole or mthe Jownt— othe mnvement is smacth running. FIGURE 2-15 ‘Sot tocemnoe tinged and joint iti place on tha pumen red, ‘and locate the dawel in the guide slot. ‘HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 27 ‘Commrigiied MaterialFIGURE 2-16 ‘Set the joint in place on top of the punch red, and hold the two together with a round toothpick dowel, Push the punch dowel into place in the bottom of the Joint, and erilland fit with a round toothpick that runs through the whole width of the unit (Fig 2-16), ovis and apie sein nd nntngun it Sringe wth theminimamotieton a2) Use a dowel to link the top end of the connecting rod to the sector (Fig 2-18) so the dowel is a tight iit in ‘tha sector hole end a loose easy fit inthe rod end. TOW ee cnet tor tant tection ng 910) alt staat aay ne use 0alars ad aw When youare pleased with the fit, finish and function, glue the whole works in place, rub down all ‘tha surfaces with a sheat of fine-nrade sandpaper, wipe the dust, and give the project « wipe with the teak ail, PROBLEM SOLVING + Ifyouliko the dea this project but want change thedesign is important ou realize thatthe relationship ‘between the swing ofthe sector weight and the lenath of the connecting rod is tical + youdeciie to modi the design end are et allunsure about the feasibility ofthe design, i's best tomake a ‘working medel 86 HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE FIGURE 2.17 (top left) Reduce the total thickness of the back face by about ‘Yet. Run a guideline arsund the odge, and man saw cut down, {nto the face—between the pivot circle and the sector face so the ivat aroa will be left to actas a washer or distance piece. (right) 1 you decide ta clear the'/" slice of waste an the band ‘saw, then ran adawel through the pivot hole ae you have a sate ‘handhold. Having ran a'/.* hole through the sector dowel pivot and followed through with around toothpick, sat the Aowel pivot in place in the backboard hole, FIGURE 2:16 FIGURE 218 Link the connecting redand Get the plate and epacerin ‘thocector woight with ashort place on thesector woight ongth of dowelso the dowel is pivot, and adjust foran aasy ‘a tight push fit in the sect moverent. ‘and a loose easy fitin the ed.PROJECT 3 Cam and Fork Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND This machine isa joy to makeand a joy to watch, Our dictionary describes a cam as baing a rotating eyl- inder with an irragular profile attached te a revolving shaft to give a reciprocating motion to @ part connected ta it” ‘With our machine, the off-center, or eccentrically mounted, disk is the cam, while the fork is the in-contact connection that gives reciprocating motion, When the crank handle is tumed—clockwise or counterclockwise—the cam revolves ecentrically on its ‘fixed bearing, with the effect that the fork and control rod oscillate on the pillar bearings. The fork is fixed on the rod, while the rod is free to slide from side to side through ‘tha bearinge. PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘Haye alook at the project pictuze (right), the working dram- ing (Fig 9.14) and the tomplates (Fig 9-18), and note that ‘tha disk cam is pin fixed to.a shaft in such a way that its movement is off-center. Consider carefully how, when the contained off-center disk cam turns, the fork has no option but to track and follow the cam protile. Although the design is pretty flexible—inasmuch as ‘there is noreason you can't chop and change various woad thicknesses and dowel sizes to suit your needs—the size of ‘thedisk cam, thedistance between the fork prongs, and the distance between the sice of the fork and the support stan- chions are all critical, That sald, if you have a notion to change wood sizes, i's best to sort out potential problems by making a cardboard-and-pins prototype. CAMAND TORK MACHINE a9CAM AND FORK MACHINE FORK MACKINE‘Copyrighted Material CAM AND FORK MACHINE WORKING DRAWING CAMAND FORK MACHINE. 1 ‘Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material CAM AND FORK MACHINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 2-18 ‘Tho scale is four (grid squares tor". [A Stenchions or plas Fok © Disk com, D Compon. B Crank, 3B CAM AND FORK MAL ‘Copyrighted MaterialCUTTING LIST ‘A. Stanchions a4 tip or pillars B For 9/4 mabowany @ Diskoan «2x 2mabogany D_ Cam post *ax1S pitch pine = Cenk Tani= PA mahogany ‘aco DBA+ 7A tulip ‘Crank handle and 1148 mahogany ent-of-od pills Rods 270 dowel CHOOSING YOUR wooD ‘This is one of those projects where you might—if you are pressed—reduce wood thickness to suit your steck ar your ‘wallet, Por example, the base and the stanchions could be @ bit thinner—aay °/." Inetead of 1"while the fittings could he worked from offeuts. We chose ta use mahogany for the cam, fork, crank, crank handle and rod-end pills, and North American tulip for the base, stanchions, and one or two bits and pieces, MAKING THE BASE ‘Take the piece of I’-thick tulip woad—the piece for the base—and with the grain running along, the length, use the pencil, ruler and square to mark it any a5", Fea inter ameter cts tha nave w eat ortecomer utes ig 914) Use els Your eine coon nee Buen ‘When you have cut the hase to size, use the giaded sandpapers torub down all faces and edges toa smaath finish. Pay particular attention tothe top face and edges and then pencil mark the underside. MAKING THE STANCHION PILLARS Draw the shape of the stanchions to size on the ‘work-out paper, and then—being mindful that the grain must run from top totoe—use the pencil, raler and compasses to mark the image on your chosen wood. Repeet the procedure so you havetwo identical meges FIGURE 3-2 ‘When using the scroll saw, control the rate of feed so the bladais, always prosented with the ine of next eut ifthe cut is ragged, the [Made is too slack or the wood is tac moist. Ifthe wood is scorched, ‘te lade needs changing or you are working at the wrong pace. Having doublo-chacked from pillar to pillar that tho circla center-points, meaning the points that mark the center of the rod hole, ara the same distance up from ‘the baseline, use the scroll saw to cut out the two identical forms (Fig 3-2). ‘With the cutout securely clamped flet on the work surface, take the /." U-section carving gauge and lower the top-of-stanchion “Iugs;’ or eer-like protrusions, by about '/«", Do this with both tugs on both faces, so when seen in edge-on view the wood curves down from the face toa thickness of about /-" (Figs 9-9 and 9-1A). FIGURE 3-3 ‘With the workpiece secured flat on the work surface—with a ‘clamp or up against a bonch stop—use tha U-section gougato CAM AND TORK MACHINE 38FIGURE 3: ‘With the workpiece supported on a waster to prevent exit ‘damage, bore out the /." hearing holeand the?/."blind hole, [Noto: we have removed the clamp for the photograph. ‘i ii Said a aaa decnatie date nd hel Aim a hina ole avabant doo (84) ‘Take your fine-grade sandpaper and bring all the edges to good order. Aim for edges that are slightly rounded, ‘When the tlme comes to sink the decorative cut ‘that runs eround the top of the stanchion, fimly brace the workpiece against the bench hook, and use the fine-toothed saw to sink the cuts to a depth af about ve (Fla 3-5). FIGURE 3-5 ‘Firmly butt the workpiece against the bench hook, adjust the ‘angle of cut so thesaw runs against the side of the hook, and ‘then sink the cut to a depth of about '/." 84 CAMAND PORE MACHINE {clamp the workpiece between 2 couple of stee1 blocks 20 itis ‘square with the surface and the dri! bit and ran the Ings through ‘with the -/«"dlameter Bit. Note: If you ike woodwork, you can't do better than sot yourself up with a good selection of clamps, ‘Wehave pincaraction clamps for amall wark, taggle clamps f ‘machina hold-downs, and a0 on. peg Having dried thetwo face holes, then comes the tricky task of drilling the fg and foot holes. say tricky because, with both the lug and the foot, the holes need to berun into acurved face, When you come to drill ‘the lug hole—an¢ bearing in mind that the dil bit will try to push the curved surface to one side—fhist set the workpiece square between a couple of hesvy blocks, and thon hold it in place with a goad clamp. Thic done, run ‘the’/."-diameter hole through the thickness of the Tug (Fig 3-8), ‘To drill he /«"-diameter foot hole, set the workpiece on a stack of scrap so the hole is angled in toward center. Use a long, shanked hit so as to avotd contact ‘between the chuck and the top of the pillar (Fig 3-7),FIGURE 3-7 ‘Make a simple wedge-and-stop jig to help you hold and support ‘tha workpioce while the hole is being drilled. MAKING THE CAM POST Have alook at the working drawing (Fig 3-1) and templates (Fig 3-18), and see that the controls, meaning the parts you turn, are made up of fixed post, crank crank handle, crank handle pin, or pivot, washer to distance the crank from the pest, disk cam and pivot rod. ‘Mark the size and shape of the post on your chosen wood—we use tulip wood—double-check the dimensions, and then eat aut the curvea-top tront view on the scroll saw. ‘Mark the position af the pivot rod hole, and run it ‘through with the Y/-"-diameter éril bit. It's important that the holeand the bottom of the hole are hath square and true with the base, so aim to get it right the first time around, Draw in the “feet”—as sean in side view—and then cut them out on the scroll saw (Fig 3-6), FIGURE 3-8 ‘When you have cnt out the little post infront view and drilled ‘therod hole, draw out the carved-foot,side-view design, and ‘complete the cut on theserell, ‘TURNING THE HANDLE, PIVOT PIN AND ROD PILLS ‘Take the length of square saction mahogany, establish the end center points by drawing crossed diagonals, and set it securely on the lathe. Having made sure you and the lathe are in good, safe order, swiftly turn down the piece of mahogany to the largest possible diameter. ‘Use ihe alviaers to mark all te step-ofts mat make up the design. Working from left ro right along the ‘turning, allow a small amount for headstock waste—sithor forthe chuck or for parting off—about /." for the handle pivot head, °/:" for the pivot, 2” for the handle, 1" far one pill,)/«’ for waste, 1” for the other pill, and a small amount for tailstack wast (Fig 3-94). FIGURE 3-94 Use the dividers to mark the cylinder with al the stop-ofte ‘hatmaxe up the design, ‘Working from left te ight slong the workplace, allaw '/." for chuck,*/." for the ‘mushroom head °/" for the pivat shank, 2” for the handle, 1 forthe frst pl, '/<" for ‘waste, 1" forthe secand pill, anda final small amount for waste, CAM AND TORK MACHINE 38‘Use the calipers to check the diameters against the working ‘drawings. Note if you are working with a limited numberof drill ‘hit sizes, be eure to adjust the width ofthe pivot shank to suit ‘your chosen bit diameter. Having first removed the bulk of the waste, use the round. nosed gouge and the skew chisel toturn down the wand to shana and size. Make rapeated checks with the calipers (Fig 3-88) ‘Tum and sané the string of turnings ta good finish, and carefully part off from the lathe. MAKING THE CRANK, HANDLE AND CAM ‘Take a’/"-thick piece of mahogany offcut and use a ‘pencll, ruler ana pair of compasses ta draw tne shape of the crank end the little washer spacer. Plan on ‘tha crank being about 1’ between centers (Fig 9-1B). ‘With all the lines of the design clearly established, first run /."-diameter holes through the crank and the spacer, and then use the scroll saw to cut out the shapes. While the drill is convenient, runa hole into the tured hendle to a depth and size to sult your turned mushroom-headed peg. non youake te bt ca, you cnet eu ‘Whan you have what you consider is a good disk— nicely sanded ta a smooth finish—nun it through with @'/.’-diameter shaft hole, and then have a trial fitting (Fig 3:10) 88 CAM AND FORE MACHINE FIGURE 3-10 ‘ave a trial fitting to make sure all the control column parts ‘come together for asmeoth-working fit 1 you have followed our directions to tha letter, you ‘will need to adjust selected nales or parts of the dowel shaft to achieve a suitable fit, For example, the handle pag neds to bo a tight fit in the hands and aloose fit rough the crank Than again, the dawal shaft needs to be a tight fit in the crank and disk cam, while being & loose easy fit through the little stanchion (Fig 3-11). Play around with the fit until you get it right. FIGURE 3-11 If need ho, sand the holes or dowelsto achieve an appropriate fit. ‘The tte pivot needs to be a lovee Ae tarough the shank and a ‘ight push ft nthe handle. MAKING THE FORKED FOLLOWER you havea look at the working drawing (Fig 3-18) ‘and templates (Fig 3-18), you will see that the forked follower, or frame, is cut from */:"-thick wood, with the grain running from top to bottom and the inside fork width being the same as tha diameter of the disk cam.Having drawn the frame on your piece of prepared ‘wo0d, give it @ good checking over just to make sure ‘you haven't made any mess-ups, and then carefully fret cout the frame on the scroll saw. If you takeit at an easy pace, all the while being, realy to pull Lack if he blade snatches, tne cut face will be so smooth it will oaly require the minimum, of carding, ‘Take the cutout and carefully draw diagonals to establish the position of the through-top rod, or shatt, hole. FIGURE 3-12 ‘Drilling the rod hole through the tap of the forked frame ts slightly tricky Inasmuch as while the hole needs torun squareand true, ‘meat drill bitsare too short. A good method is to establish the points for tha halos, clamp the warkpiace t= square fron ‘block, and than run the holes through from both sides. Hold the workpiece secure with blocks anda clama 50 the hole is going to be well placed and true, and run it through with along, shanked /s" hit (Fig 9-12).1If your bit isn’t long enough, turn the whole works around, and drill it through from the other side. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING ‘When you have completed al! the component parts ‘that make up the design, thon comes the exciting Dut fingor-twisting task of putting everything together. You should have ten primary parts in ell: the hase, two stanchions, disk cam post, disk cam, washer, crank, handle, handle pin, two end-of-rod pills, arstops,anda ‘whole heap of dowels cut to size (Fig 3-13), Before you do much else, take the finest-grade sancpaper and rub down all faces, edges and comers toa smocth tinish, Give all the surtaces—narring ‘the mating faces that are tobe glued~a swiftrubdown with a omall emount of toak oil. Having cut all the rods and dowels to length, spend timerubbing them down with a scrap of sandpaper so they are an appropriate fit and all the on-view ends are nicaly rounded. Have all the ends standing slightly forward by about!/."-*/:". when you have generally brought everything to good order, start the fitting by pegging and agjusting the three posts. FIGURE 3-13 alt the componeat parts that ‘make up the project, check all the measurements against the working drawing and template design, and then sand allthe surfaces down CAM AND FORK MACHINE 37FIGURE 3-14 ‘Align the throe posts so they are true, and fix with the pogs. o Glue, neg and tit the disk cam, crank and handle, and carefully adjust one with another so they are square and parfectly aligmed (Fig 9-14), Slide the forked follower on its rod, and peg or glue. Slip the ends of the rods through the bearings so the fork straddles the disk cam (Fig 9-16). FIGURE 3-15 Slide the forked framecver the cam, and ft the other post Note ‘how the top of the frame has hoon roundad. 88 CAM AND FORE MACHINE ‘Whon you've finally put the whale machine together, spend tima ‘making sure all components are square and trus tovach other. ‘With all the patts variously giued or pegged in place, test for squareness, make sure the machine works, and then put it to one side until the glue is set (Fig 3-16). Finally, give the whole works another rubdown with the teak oil, and then the fun can begin! PROBLEM SOLVING “Tt you 1ke me Idea of this project but want rochange tne ‘design, no problem, as long as you make sure the camand ‘orkeare compatible. + Havingmade the projec, Gil thinks the base and the ‘stanchions would look even better if they were cut from slightly thinner wood That sei, Tike the thickness ofthe ‘Wood hut Lam not sokeen about ts colorand texture, + Ifyou want to make the project but can'tget use of a lathe, settle for making the crank handle from a shop-boaght dowel, + Aste distance between the side ents o! the forked follower -and the inside faces of the standsis cutical—the machine ‘wort work unless t's right—make sure everything is smooth sunning tore you gue up.PROJECT 4 In-the-Round Combustion Engine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘Although the in-the-round combustion machine is in es sence much like tha reciprocating machine, ac shown in projact 6, it is inmany ways all tha mora exciting in that it can—like a piece of sculpture—be seen and enjoved from all angles, The turn-handle movement attractively illus- trates how the up-and-down operation of a piston is con- verted, by way of a crank, into rotary motion (right) PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a look at the working drawing (Fig 4-1) and the tem plates (Fig 4-2), and see that at a grid scale of two squares to, the machine stands almost 12” high and over 6° wide across the span of the drive shaft, Consider that the greater part of the machine is made up of threo beautifully com plex turnings:the hase, which is dritled and hollow turned the quatrefoll top, which is both drilled and fretted halfway ‘through the turning stage; and the cylinder whichis tamed, drilled and then sawn. ‘Though the project is challenging, a lot of the tricky procedures relate not so much to your skill level, aut to your equipment. Modify the stages to fit your tool kit. OK, 80 it might take a lot longer, but then the pleasure is, inne doing! IN-THE-ROUNDIN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE 40. N-THE-ROUND COMaUSTION ENGINEIN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 4-1 ‘At agrid scale of two squares ‘to 1, the machine stands ‘almost 12” high and about of the hase, Pi chilies I-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE €1IN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE TEMPLATES ae FIGURE 4-2 ‘Thoscale is two grid squares to 1". Note that we have only ‘mown what weconsider are tthe most difficult-te-visualizeA 2x7 7easy-to-turn beech a = turn talip ct 27.27: 6 beech D_ Piston md Wer l/e* beech E Grankshaftbeanngs 1*3e* mahogany @ F_Grank plates 3x37 ohomy @ Hanilocrank Taare H_ Knob 2/6 dowel Standzedsand shaft 60°—/s" dowel CHOOSING YOUR wooD ‘This 1s one of those projects where the choice of wood is all important; i's got to be just right. We have chosen European beech for the piston and base, because it's easy to turn and yet strong across the short grain, and tulip for ‘tha top, because it's hoth easy to turn and easy to work on the scroll saw. MAKING THE ENGINE CASE AND BASE Have a good, long look at the working drawing (Fig 4-1) and templates (Fig 4-2), and see thatthe quatrefoil component at the top of the engine—we call it ‘tha engine or piston case—is both tured on the lathe ‘and worked with me saw and drill Note also the shape ofthe base. Bo the 2"-thickslabs of tulip and fix thecenter point by drawing crossed diagonals, ‘Mark the slab with a 8'/-"-diameter circle, Cut away the waste on the scroll saw or band saw. Screw the resultant disk on the 6” faceplate using short, fat screws, With the tool rest set aver the bed af the lathe, turn down te woud toa smooth 6”-diameter disk and true up the face. Use the dividers to markthe disk with a 2! diameter circle, and then tum down the waste so the a2" circle stands up as a /:"-high plateau (Fig 4-3), ‘Mount the drill chuck on the tailstock, iit the 1/0" Forstner bit, and run a hole through the center of the plateau (Fig 4-48). FIGURE 4-3, ‘Mount the Mank on thelathe, and tarn dawn the edge and profile. ‘Seohow 1 use around-nosed scraper for the inside curve. ‘Mark the lowered area with a couple of guiceline circles, oneat about /:" from the edge, for the postholeg, and one about °/.” outaide the plateau, forthe profileline Having iirst rubbed down the tuning toa smooth, ‘finish, take it off the lathe—off the faceplate—and set to work on the tumed face of the wood, drawing in all the ines that make up the quatrefoil design, Pencil lebel the turned face “hottom, fix the position of the four pasthales on the guideline circle—at £0° mtervals—and establish the shape of the cross-armns. Make the arms about 1/2" wide and all the comers and angles nicely rounded (Figs 4-1 ana 4-2 top), FIGURE 4-48 ‘ore out the piston hole with a Forstner bit. Advance and retreat ‘with the tailatock so as notte harnor clog the bit. IN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTIONENSINE 48FIGURE 4-45 ‘Maving drawn the quatrefoil profile, use the scroll saw to clear ‘the waste, tave the workplace flat on the cutting table oo the cut {nos aro at right angles to the working face. un the holes through with the:/:"-diameter drill bit, and cut the quatrefoil profile out on the scroll saw (Fig 4-48), ‘When you have completed the cross—all drilled and out—mount it on the expanding jaws option of the chuck, and set to work turning dawn what wilt ba the “top" face (Py 4-5). 1 used the small, round-nosed gouge and ‘ths round-nosed scraper. ub down the whole works with the fine-atade sandpaper Doone face of the turning, then tum it over on the chuck and do the other face. If you rub down one face as it points toward the bed of the lathe plus the ditficult-to-reach face hetween the whole piece and the chuck, you will find that the change of direction ensures that all the edges are well rounded. Having achieved a well-turned and finished componant, redo the same procoduras and tum tho each wood basa. That is to say, turn down the wood toa 61/2" disk and run a1'/-" borehole through the disk ‘Tum down the top-of-base profile so the underside rim of the cross is a neat fit in the hole (Fig 4-8). 44 DV THE-ROUND COMBUST FIGURE 4-5 ‘With the werkpiece held secursly on the expanding jaws of the ‘chuck, wae a round-nosed trol te turn down what will he the ‘underside of the casing. Goat itnice and easy, all the while being ‘mindful that this isa stage that needs ta be worked with oxtroma caution. FIGURE 4-5 ‘Tum ont the base hole until the neck of the top casing isa nice slide ft, ‘Take the whole works off the lathe—the turning on the faceplate— set the arose camponent in place ee) ‘the cross plateau is in the hole, and then use the four holes on the cross to drill four matching holes through the base (Fig 4-7), ‘Finally, remount the base on the lathe and drill, and turn the profile in much the same way as already described. Check your turniag against the working drawing (Fig 4-1 bottomFIGURE 4-7 ‘With the buse still screwed to the faceplate, and using the ‘quatrefoil easing aa a pilot guide, bore out thefour postholos. MAKING THE CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS ‘When you hava studied the working drawing (Fig 4-1) 0 you know what you are doing take the V’-thick place of mahogany andusethe pencil ruler, equere and ‘compasses to mark the design as seen in side view. With all the Lines in place, and having first established the exact position of the various noles— Doth the bearing holes and the postholes—bore the holes out with the /." diameter bit. Be careful when you run the posthales dawn through the 1" thickness of the wood; he sure they are well aligned and true, ‘Take the wood, all marked and drilled, and fret out the two side-view profiles (Fig 4-B), ‘Mark the plan-view imagery on the newly revealed cut faces, and then hegin shaping and sculpting with he scroll saw, xnite ana tube rasp (Fig 4-8). Continue whittling, rasping and sanding until you ‘have two well-matchad forms (Fig 4-10). MAKING THE CRANK AND CONNECTING ROD Have a look at the working drawing (Fig 4-1), templates (Fig 4-2) and the various photographs, and see that the crank is achieved by having two identical plates and offset dowels. FIGURE 4-8 ‘Seahow the postholos mn through the thickness of thewoed. FIGURE 4-9 ‘Use the knife, rasp and sandpaper to whittle the crankshaft ‘hearings to shape. Be careful nct to force the blade at the relatively fragt short-graimod areas. FIGURE 4-10 ‘Have repeated fittings until the compoxonts come together for a good fit Cut the */-"-thick cherry into two crank-sized pieces, draw the imagery out on one of the pieces, and then ‘ix them together with a single pinat one corner. Keep the ‘pin out of the design area. DY-THE-ROUND col STIONENGINE 48FIGURE 4-11 ‘Fitting the single pin and two dowols at the presaw stage ensures ‘that the two crank platos are identical mirror-image cutouts. ore and dowel plug the two /:"-diameter shaft holes right through both pieces of wood, first one hole end thon the other. Usa leagthe of eerap dowel. With the holes in place, begin fretting out the crank shape on the scroll saw. Work at a steady, even nace, all the while feeding the wood into the blade so the line of cut isa litle to the waste side of the drawn line (Fig 4-11) Having first drawa the shape of the connecting rod on the 1"-thick beach and variously fixed the position of the rod holes, tret out te connecting roa profile as drawn (Fig 412). Draw the side-view imagery of the rod an the sawn face, mark in the waste, and then slice it off on the saw (Fig 4-19). FIGURE 4-12 ‘While you are busy at the scroll saw, you might as well fret out ‘the connecting rod and crank handle. ae DUTHE-AO MBUSTION ENGINE FIGURE 4-13 ‘slice away the connocting rad wastes sean ia top view. Use the knife and rasp to shape tha connecting rod ‘Take your small, sharp knife and whittle the straight part of the rod to a roundish section. The best technique is to set the circle lines of the ends in with a stop-cut oa both sides of the wood and atboth endsand then to carefully slice the blade into the stop-cut so the waste falls away. ‘When you have shaped and lowered the round. ‘section so the flat faces of the end circles stand somewhat in relief, take a scrap of sandpaper and generally rub down the whole workpleze ta a emooth, slightly round-edged finish, ‘When you have finished fretting and shaping the connecting rod, and drilled out the two hales, go back to the crank plates and wedge the /-" shaft dowels in place (Fig 4-14). The dowels have to run true, so spend time making sure everything is aligned. MAKING THE PISTON Set your chosen square section length of wood on, ‘the lathe, and use the large gouge to swiftly tum, down the wood toa diameter of °/.” Ital is eorreet, 13/ ‘will be slightly larger than the hole thet runs through the cross-shaped unit at the top of the engine. FIGURE 4.14 ‘Slot and wedge the drive shaft stubs into the crank plate. Don’t calue at this stagFIGURE 4-15 ‘When you think the piston turning is to site, wind back the tails ‘tack and have trial fitting. FIGURE 4-16 ‘Aim for a nice, smaothrstiding it. ‘This done—and having first set the calipers to the exact diameter of the cresspiece hole—take the skew chisel and turn down the piston so it isan aasy-slide fit in the case hole. The best procedure isto carefully draw the tallstack out of the way and then to try the cross casing on for size (Figs 4-15 and 4-16), Fit the tailstock drill chuok on the lathe, and use the 1V/e-diameter bit ta run a hele down into the cylinder (Fig 4-17). Puch the piston through the eeroll caw—or you might profer to uso ahandsaw—and take an angled slice from each side (Figs 4-18 and 4-2). un a pencil guideline up, down and around the piston, and drill out the /«"-dlameter pinhole— ‘through one side and out the other. It might be agood idea to plug the center of the piston with a length of waste to minimize exit dameqe. FIGURE 4-17 ‘Use the tailstock drill chuck to bore out the piston waste. ‘Advance cautiously so as not ts neck the workpiece aff-contor. FIGURE 4: ‘ave a trial fitting of the connecting rod small end in the piston. ‘The pinneeds to boa tight ft in the piston and a loose fit through ‘thosmall end. Have a trial fitting of the small end of the connecting rod in the piston (Fig 4-19). IN-TEE-ROUND COMBUSTION EASSEMBLY AND FINISHING erg When you havs before you ol ths componsnt parts that makeup the project (Fig 4-20), then comesthe itficult task of putting the machme tagether. Start by fitting the small end of tha connecting rod_ in the piston, Aum fora tight firof the pin through tha sides of the piston anda Jose fit of the'pin through the small end, [fneed be,rub cur selected holes or parts af the pin until everything itts just right (Pigs 4-2l and 4-22) When you are happy with the fit of the small end in the piston, take the two crank plates—complate with ‘thetr lengths of drava shaft dewel—and link them with a ‘short length of dawel that runs through the ig end hearing at the end of tha connecting rod. Make therod about 2" long (Fig 4-23). Don't glue at this stage. go One piece ata time, ft the piston in the crose- shaped casing, set the crankshaft hearing in place on the dowel ends (Fig 4-24), and sat the patr of bearings on the four support dowels (Fig 4-25). Pit lite pags t2 hhold the various components at the carrect height, Continue fitting and sanding and generally easing ‘until tha whole machine comes tgether. 48 -THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE FIGURE 4-21 Pass the short length of crank dawel throagl the big end, and ‘SuECK for an easy, wetl-alignedt ft, ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material Fmally, wip all nonglued surfaces with the taak ot glug, clamp, bumish the machine ta adull sheen finish, and. burrah—verything is fmished and ready {for showing! FIGURE 4-24 PR, check and ease the crandoshaft bearings. FIGURE 4-22 [FR tnocranck plates so there 18 small space between the plate ‘and the flat face of the big ond. FIGURE 4-25 ‘Sot tmocemponent parts in placo ax tho posts; and Rat them 1 Positian wea smal pogR PROBLEM SOLVING “ Mryoutberthe fae ofmispeojct but want to change he ‘design, be mindtu’ that tsnotso easy to redesign a single ‘semen fo eclton, Ts betng £0 we MOUGelwayEaavIEE ‘at yume prototype. + Ang time you are ordering wood, i's always a good ‘25k for ond tat is wa seasnaed and any but sane ‘more important when you ste ordering wer trang FIGURE L-23 “aman: ating mi cana ates toe ive at stunts ‘The crank plates nood tu have perfect mirror-image aligument. 3k that remultes aot af time, alot at I-THE-ROUND COMBUSTIONENCINE am Copyrighted MaterialPROJECT 5 Ward Lock and Key PROJECT BACKGROUND When I was a Kid—I must have been about seven years old—1 was absolutely faccinated by locks and keys. Ac 1 ramamber, I spent 2 good anal of my time collecting keys, mending locks, and generelly showing friends and family just how easy it was to escape from a locked room. ‘Most of us are literally surrounded by locks; we can hardly move without first finding our keys, Yet. few of us know how locks work. The good news is our simple ward- and-tumbler locking machine illustretes all the essentials ofthearchetypal locking mechanism, There is a key,a ward toblock the passage of the wrong key, sliding late plate, and a tumbler thet holds the latch in place. In action, the shaped key io pivoted past the blocking ward knob, with the effect that, in its turning, it its the mmbler out of the ‘way and pushes the latch forward (right). So there you ao. If you want to know a little more about one of our most ‘common mechanisms, now's your chance. MAKING WOODEN MECHANICAL MODELS PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a look at tha working drawing (Fig §-1) and the tom plates (Fig 5-2), and soe that the locking machine stands about 8” high with a base slab at 8” long and 4'/-" wide. Note that we have reduced the workings, meaning the number of moving parts, to a minimum in an attempt, as it ‘were, to show the “bones‘" Of course, most ward locks have number of springs that bear down ona series of tumblers, but in the context of our machine we feel that a single heavy tumbler falling down under its own weight is enough to demonstrate the basic principle. Consider how the cavity has been constructed by set- ting a fretted front plate against a solid back plate. As for the overall design, we have consciously gone for a solid, easy-to-make good-to-hold structure. All in all. we have kept the fixings to a minimum so everything is in view. BO WANDWARD LOCK AND KEY ND KEY 93WARD LOCK AND KEY WORKING DRAWING na BUM GRC CELL: FIGURE 5-1 ‘Thofinished machine stands about 6" high and about er teng. (top) Late plate and tumbler at aecale offour grid oquaree (Ghottom) Views and section at ‘a scale of two squares to 1" BR WARD LOCK AND KEYWARD LOCK AND KEY TEMPLATES FIGURE 5-2 ‘Thoscale is four grid squares to". With aprojectof this ‘character—wnere success slg hin jaw eutor the placiag ofa on the width of that these profiles are only broad guides. aCUTTING LIST A Box root Ye" 5 Boak Boxback Vex 5* Bak B Tumbler Tei? maple Latch plate +S /*5/.mapl D Key a eh ss /achesty Base "ae a7 8 oak Pivate Ze dowel Decorative pins 121A" daewoo! dowel Fang pins ound toothpicks CHOOSING YOUR wooD ‘As this is a project that is best mede from a hard, stralght- grained wood, we have gone tor cak for the box and ase and maple for the moving parts: the sliding latch and. ‘tumbler, MAKING THE BOX AND BASE Have a good, long look at the working drawing (Fig 5-1] and templates (Fig 5-2), and see that the main structure is mace up ofthree pieces cf wood:a single slab for the bese and two glued and pinned slabs for the box. ‘With your workshop in good order, and when you are clear in your own mind as to the procedures, take the ‘thrap slabs of wood—for the hasa and the hox—and use a ‘penoil,ruler and pair of compasses to mark the design, ‘Mark the base with the corner radius curvas and the front ox slab with the single corner curve and interior shape ‘hat needs to be cut away. FE ove tnoas ney wore sil saben 2 tisk move othe aol sn and eae out out the Sinl rai cure Who you sro noting onthe inochi a hou uve hat atau he bate ‘Take the two-layer box slab, ease the layers apart, partially withdsaw the pins so the points are aut of hamn’s way, and then cut away the central area of waste so you are left with the protile that makes up the front at te box (Pig 5-3). ‘Align and repin the two hox stabs, and run the various holes through with diill bits of a size to fit ‘your dowel (Fig 5-4). Finally, take the two slabs thet make up the box, set, ‘them on the base slab, and mark in the position of the three fixing dowels, meening the three dowels that fix the box tothe nase. FIGURE 5-3, Having ent the two slabe of weod to the eame shayo, rot out the {front slab to make the latch box cavity. 84 WARD LOCK AND KEY FIGURE 5-4 Drill out all the primary holes, and have a trial fitting of the box ‘to the base slab,MAKING AND FITTING ‘THE LATCH PLATE ‘Take the front-of-box cutout, set it on the /."-thick ‘maple—like a template—and use a pencil to transfer ‘tha imagery. Having drawn me shape of the sliding atch pate to size and made a good tracing, use the tracing to prose transfor tho drawn imago through to the box chapo ‘you've marked on the maple (Fig 5-5) If you have a close-up look at the photegraph—in this and many other projacts—you will perhaps ‘wonder at thare being « great number of differences between our initial prototype dravrings, as seen on the tracing paper, and the actual workpiece, The project changes a bit as we work on it. It you have anotion that, such and such a shape or way af working is the nest way, then that is the best way for you. With the shapa ofthe latch plate clearly marked ‘within the shane of the box, and having made agjuustments to allow for easy movement, fix the position of the various holes and pilot piercing within the plate, and run them through with the '/«" drill bit (Fig 8-5) ‘When you feelallis correct, fret out the latch plate on the scroll saw. Don’t bother at this stage to cut the fine dstalts; just go tor Me main profit. With the plate partially cut out, wipe the edges with a fing-grade sandpaper ta remave any rough edges: ‘that might get in the way, and have atrial fitting in the lock box (Fig 5-6). The latch plate should slide neatly backward and forward without sticking or racking. MAKING THE KEY AND ‘TUMBLER MECHANISM ‘When you have completed tie basic sliding leton emaathly in the box, then comas the not-o of fitting the key and tumbler. Start by looking at the working drawing (Fig 5-1) and templates (Fig 5-2), and seeing that the key needs to be cut and worked so the end- of-key profile, ot ward, is able to pass over a ward stud that is set in the body of the box. acy business FIGURE 5-5 ‘Having transferred the shaye of the hox cavity throught the +ye-thiek wood, sot to work transforring and modifying thelatch profile to ensure a emocth-aliding ft. FIGURE 5+ Fret out the latch plate, and try it out for size. I1it'stoo tight, it ‘won't move, and if i's too loose it twists and gets stuck—so go atitslowly. WARDLOCK ANDKEY $5.FIGURE 5: ‘Whittle away the leading edge of the Key soit fits in the notch o ‘thounderside ofthe latch. FIGURE 5-7 (Ont out the key shape on the drill and scroll saw, and whittle the stalk sa its an easy-to-tum fit in the "/<"sdiameter box hole. Having firet cut aut the baele ehape af the key blank Fig 5-7), whittia the stem ta a round section soit fits in the keyhole, and shape the leeding edge of the key (Fig $-8) so, when it is turned, it catches the notched. underside of the latch plate, with the effect that the latch slides forward. ‘The trick ta fitting the key is to trim back little by little, stop and have a fitting, trim back some mors ‘and 80 on (Fig $-9) until the movement fs just right. FIGURE 5-3 Continue whittling the leading edge of the key to shapeso when Whan youhave cut the key to good fit, then comes _it urna, it entohes and moves the aiding latch plats. the frustrating task of fitting the tumbler. It yeu look at the mechanism (Fig 5-10). you will see thet the little, shaped profile of the tumbler has two dowels: the one on the far right, which is the pivot, and the one at top canter, ‘which is a peg or knob. In action, the turning Key catches and lifts the curved underside of the tumbles, with the effect thet it swings up on its pivot, And, of course, as the tumbler 1ises, the peg is lifted out of the aotch an the Lop edge of the latch, and the turning Key goes on to move the latch, Once again, you might wall have to cut two or three ‘tumbler plates and play around witi the position of ‘tha pivot hole and the shape of the underside curvebefore FIGURE 5-10 ‘you gat it just right, ‘Shape and ft the tumbler. Eventually the pivot poy needs to he ‘glued into the tumbler plate and held in place with around toothpick with the heelend of the pivot running back through the ‘hos. The other dawel isno more than a stub that sticks out atthe ‘back ofthe tumbler plate—to rest in the latch natch, Be WARD LOCK ANDASSEMBLY AND FINISHING ‘Whan you have achieved a smooth movement of the key tumbler and latch, take the latch plate back ta the duill end the scroll caw and finish cutting the other location slot and the two-pronged bolt profile on the leading edge of the latch (Fig 8-11) Having fretted out all the component parts thet ‘make up tho project, eproad thom out (Fig 5-12) and hack them over for potential problems ‘Whan the whole movement is smocth running, fit the ward knob in the back of the box, and whittle a Little bridge ward on the bottom edge of the key so it just clears the knob. The idea is, of course, that only your key will fit into the lock (Pig 5-18). FIGURE 5-11 ‘Maving established the position of the slot at the backend of the latch, go back to the scroll saw and finish cutting the profile, FIGURE 5-12 ‘The compenent parts—all ready for the final fitting. FIGURE 5-13 ‘with the latch being held in place with a couple of temporary dowel poss, fit the ‘ward stub in the back plate, and whittle the key ward to shape—uke atte bridge Finally, when you are happy with all the moving parts, fit and glue the dowels and pins that hold the sliding latch in place, glue and peg thetwo layers that make up the box, glue and peg the box to the base, and so forth (Fig 5-14). When the glue is completely ary, rub down, all surlaces te a smooth tinish, wipe the whole works with, ‘the teak oll, and the project is finished. PROELEM SOLVING + Ifyou lke the idea ofthis project you can adapt ito fit other sands of ocks, + When we designed tis project, we had in mind that we ‘would cut and fita weoden loa! epring to frmaly hold tho ‘tumbler on the latch. Is still good idea: you could use a blece of sprinay wood. like bamboo. “This is ane of those profcts where you reedto hold back. ‘with the sandingunti the mechanism is up and working. ‘say this because you might wellneed to make several keys ‘or several tumblers before you get everything just ritPROJECT 6 Reciprocating Engine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘The reciprocating maching beautifully lustrates all the movomonte that mako up the archetypal combustion on. gino. At the turn of a handle, i's plain te sea how the up- and-down mavement of a piston is converted. by way of a crank into rotary motion (right), It youare looking to make a relatively easy project, this isthe one for you. PROJECT OVERVIEW Having said the project is easy to make—and it really is— this is not to say you can do it with your eyes closed. Yes, the verlous cuts are straightforward, end no, you don't nsed a fancy tool Kit, but te cutting and shaping procedures ao need to be completed with care. For example, although the rotted cide runners can be cut on the fret saw—and this is swift and easy—the various layers that make up the sections of the runners need tobe carefully drawn out. ‘The working action is pretty to watch. As the handle is turned—either clockwise ar counterclockwise, it makes no difference—the crank tums on its pivot, with the effect that ‘the piston slides up and down in its runners. But don’t forget, when you are giving that sclence fair lecture, to ‘mention that the real-life in-car movement is reversed, ‘with the combustion pushing down on the piston and the rotary crank driving the road wiheels. 88 RECIPROCATING ENGINERECIPROCATING ENGINE RECIPROCATING ENGINE seRECIPROCATING ENGINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 6-1 om, 8/2" wide across the spanof the base and ai indepth. ie he wed ry i erie = pie ere Gg Cena ATT 80 RECIPROCATING ENGINERECIPROCATING ENGINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 6-2 ‘Thoscale is two grid squares to". Note that, as with al the templates in tne book, me prota Alagrammnatie guide then, 0, it's always agood idea to A Backboara B Face, © Aston a F Connecting re. 1 uttess,CHOOSING YouR woop It yoware anything at all ke us—Like most woodworkers, in fact~the never ending question iswhat to do with the ever growing pile of offeute. Yoo, it dose aeem a pity te threw aut ‘small pieces of exotie wood left over from larga projects, mnt ‘what to do with them? Well now, no such problems here. ‘This 1s a great project for using up odds and ends! After searching through our stockpile, we decided to go for straight-grained tulip for the base and beckhoard (it needs tobe strong); cherry for the runners, pitch pine for the crank ‘and connecting 104; mahogany for the piston; and dowels for the various pins and pivots. Note: if you look through the various photographs, you will see that tue top, back edge of the heckboard is sheped. Don't worry about it.1t'snotimpor- tant, I's just a bit left over from another project. MAKING THE BASE AND BACKBOARD Having carefully studied the working drawing (Fig 6-1) and templates (Fig 6-2), take the twa pieces of tulip and use the pencil, ruler, square and compasses to mark all the lines that make up the design, ‘Spend time carefully marking in the position of the center lines, the crank pivot hole, and any other guidelines you think are necessary. I!you are at all unsure ‘acto what goos where and how, shade In the areas that need ta ba cut away, Whan you teelall is correct, move to the scroll saw, and set to work cutting out the profiles. Having made sure the blade is well tensioned, run the workpiece into the saw so the blade is always presented with the angle of best cut and the line of cut is tractionally te the ‘waste side of the drawn line, 8a RECIPROCATING E: GINE ‘Drill and peg the backboard to the bese with the pegs mun inat a slightangle, check with a square, and generally see toit that everything is square and stable MAKING AND FITTING THE SLIDE RAILS Before you do anything else, wave another good, Jong look at the working drawing (Fig 6-1) and the soquonce of photographs, and soo that the pair of slide rails are achieved by being first sliced into four layars— two for each rail—and then marked out, drilled, fretted to shape and reassembled. Note how the order of work—first ddriling and pegging ané then fretting—ensures that profiles and holes match up, ‘When you have sliced the slide rail wood into four 4v-long,"-wide layers—two at °c" thick and two at alittle over °/:" thick—draw the imagery on one or omer of the layers. ‘With the four pieces of wood sanded down and clamped securely together, drill the three dovrel holes through all four thicknesses of wood. Push lengths o!'/.' dowel through the holes to hold the four piees of wood together, and fret out the total three-curve shape on the scroll saw (Fig 6-8). FIGURE 6-3 ‘With the dowels to hold the layers in place, carefully fret out the ‘shape of the runners, orrails. ftheblade starts to wander off ‘course, it's a sure sign either the blada is war or the tonsion is tooslack,FIGURE 6-48, ‘Having carefully yoncil labeled the layersso they are nicely matched up and you know what gees where and how, slice away ‘the ship of wasts from the back layer. 1's easy to make a ‘mese-up, so be sure to get it right the first time around, FIGURE 6-45 ‘The piston nocd to be a good fit—not 20 sloppy it tltsto the side ‘nor ea tight there is any friction, just an aaey, comfortable fit. Slice a'/.’-wide strip from the straight edge of both thick layers (Fig 6-44), and have a trial fitting, Label the layers so you know precisely what goes where (Ag 6-48), Having complated two identical, two-layer rails, carefully set the rails in place on the backnoard, and mark in the position ofthe six peg-fixing holes, While you ara at it—if you haven't already done it position of the crank pivot hole, run the holes through with the "bit and have another fitting (Fig 6-8) marie in the CUTTING THE PISTON ‘Take your chosen plece of wood and check its thickness by sliding it in the rails. It needs to be an easy, smooth-running fit between the rail and the backhoaid. It need he, reduce the thickness to fit, FIGURE 6-5 Drill the seven holes, and have atrial fitting f the rails. Aim to ‘have the rail pegs standing slightly proud, Note that the crank pogas shown is no more than atryeut. a the design on the working tace of your chosen. igce of wood, mark the center line, and fix the position of the piyot. Shade in the area that neads ta be cout out. ‘When you have double-checked that everything is ‘well placed—the profile lines and the position of the pivot point—go back to the scroll saw and fret out the shape |Fig 6-6). As always, wor ata nice, easy pace, all the while being ready to ease hack if the hlade starts ta bend or if the Line of cut looks to berunning away trom the drewntne, Finally, take a scrap of fine-grade sandpaper and rub Hown the edges of the piston cutout ta a slightly rounded finish to createa good, sliding fit between the rail tracks and the backboard, Iesimportant you go for a straight grained wood, and equally ‘important you mark the profile so the grain i aligned with the ‘contor line. This way of working onsures that therais azminimum of weak, short-grained areas, RECIPROCATING ENGINE 68.CUTTING AND WHITTLING THE CRANE AND CONNECTING ROD Have alook at the working drawing (Fig 6-1) and templates (Fig 6-2), and consider that the two ccmponents—the crank and the connecting rod—are first cout out on the scroll saw and then whittled. Bee ere design, fe tho pocition of the various pivot holes, and frot out ‘tha profils on the scroll saw (Fier 8-7) ‘With all the lines and center points in placa, and having carefully checked for accuracy, run the four '/e'-diameter holes through on the dill press, Starting with the connecting rod, take your knife and set to work whittling the cutout to shape, And just in case youarea beginnes to whittling, it your knife is sherp, and ifyou are working with an easy-to-cut plece of wood, ‘you won't have eny problems. Having once again studied the working drawing (Fig 6-1), templates (Fig 6-2) and photographs, take your small, sharp knife and start whittling the straight part of the rod toa roundish section, The best technique isto set inthe cirsle lines of the ends with stopcuts—on both sites ofthe woad and at both ends—an¢ then to cerafully slice ‘tha blade into the stop-cut so the waste falls away. It you work with a careful chumb-braced paring cut, you wort, have any problems with the knife slipping (Fig 6-8) ‘Whan you have shaped and lowered the round section so the flat faces of the end circles stand somewhst proué, take a scrap of sanépaper and generally rub down the whole workpiece to a smooth, slightly round-edged finish. Runa V-cut around the hig end to achieve the illusion that—just like a metal casting—the form is made up of two parts. ‘whan you are pleased with the overall shape and fe] of the connecting rod, follow through with more orless the same whittling procedures forthe crank. That isto say, set the ends in with stop-cuts, and then pare away the central portion sit is half-round in secticn. ‘Make sue the square, flat end stands slightly higher than. ‘tha rest of the piece, 84 RECIPROCATING ENGINE FIGURE 6-7 ‘Run the center line inthe directionof the grain, and then have ‘the profile sot square and symmetrical with the ling. e sure to ouble-chock the pesition of the dowol holes. FIGURE 6-6 ‘Work with « careful thumb braced paring stroke, all the while, ‘boing ready to byake if tha blade alipe ip: a razor-sharp blade Ja much safor ta use than a blunt blade that noods to he bullied inte action. FIGURE 6-3 ‘When you have completed all the component parts that make up ‘the project, spread them out on the work surface, and chack them over just tomake sure everything is correct.ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING When you have completed all the component parts that make up the project (Fig 6-9), then comes the pleasure of putting the machine together Having rubbed downall taces and edges witha sheet of tine-grade sandpapar, wiped away te dust, and had another trial fitting—just to make sure everything comas togother for a good fit—give all nonglued curtacos A wilt wine with tha teak oll, and put tha whole works to one side to dry. Glue and peg the backboard to the base sa it'sat right angles, and glue and peg the buttress in place. It’s important everything is true, so spend time checking with the ruler and square (Fig 8-10). Bee salls in place, check that the piston still fits, wipe away any excess glue and clamp up. Glue the three pivot rods in place: the small end rod that stands out from the piston, the rod thet runs out from the back of the crank, and the hendle or big-end rod ‘hat stands cut from the front of the crank, Wipe away excess glue, check aligament, and put the rods to ane side until the glue is set (Fig 6-11). Finally, slide the crank rod through the backboard, tit the fixing pin, slide the piston down in place between the rails set the connecting rod on both the crank rod and the piston rod, and ... the project is finished. FIGURE 6-11 ‘The movoment hingos on tha dowel rods boing carefully plac ‘s0 they are square with the working face. Make several chi (of Piston. (right) Crank. PROBLEM SOLVING + Ifyou lke the Idea ofthis project but want tochange the ‘sign, 0 prob, a6 ong as there is clearance between the ‘botet of the piston end the united end of the crank ane botwoon he aquere endef the crank and the base aa fin 4outt, ifs always. goad deato makea wnrking model + When vou ar ordering rour wood, aways ask for wood that ‘s well seasoned and cy. say this because party seasoned ‘Wood is ukely to split warp or shrink, and damp wood is ‘ufc 0 work, + Hiayingsait the streightgreinedtulp is suitabefor he ‘backboard andthe bese, this snot to say itis ultalefor the smal parts that ae to be whittled Ifyou have any doubts as to the sutabiityof such and such a wood for whiting tsa good ides toy sample with your ke + Shop -bought dawelradiis a problem inasmuch as the sizing ls variable ané unreliable, For example, my so called °/¢-tiameter dowel isa very ose fit in a'/" bole, whereas ‘my 9" dowels too hig for a/* hole end a sloppy, Joos tit for 2° hol. This beings. it'selvays agood idea tocheck aut ‘ourdowel supply atthe start of « proect,andthea medity ‘the project accordingly. RECIPROCATING ENGINE 68PROJECT 7 Oil Pumping Rig PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘We have tried in this project to capture the essential im- agory—tho towar, or derrick, coosaw beam, crank and nod. ing donknylike haad. The movement is beautifully diract: when the handle is turned, the crank revolves, with the effect tht the beam oscillates and the loose-pivoted don- key head at the end of the heam slowly nods up and down. PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a look at the project picture (right), the working draw- ing (Fig 7-1) anc the templates (Fig 7-2), and note that the ‘maghine 1s made up of six primary elements: a base slab, tower, balance beam at the top of the towe:, pivot plate that holds the beam, crank, and connecting rod. And, of course, ‘hare ara secondary slements like the donkey head and the various pins and pivots. ‘This project is ideally suited forthe beginner, inasmuch as it can be cut and worked with nothing more complicated ‘than a scroll saw and pillar drill. What else to say, except ‘that this machine is great fun to make and great fun to wateh in action. 88 CL PUMPING FOIL PUMPING RIG PUMPING RIS 67 ot Ki fIpaBOMOIL, PUMPING RIG WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 7-1 ‘Thomachina stands abeut "high and7” tong. , (top) The gria scate ts four seer squares to. I (bottom) The grid eeatota rif sh i twoeguarocta thay veh Beery anna ee IL PUMPING FIGOIL, PUMPING RIG TEMPLATES crank plateCUTTING LIST A Derrick tower t+ 6x7 tulip B Crank plate 1s3/ar2 <2 pitchpine © Center pivoiplates — 2—'/«1/:* 2 mahogany ‘D_ End pivot plates B=77/ = Wa mahogany E Donkeyneat sites 2—/\=1+@ mahogany ‘center "and Bcedar PF Comnectingrod Axi mahogany Gandia You *2 mahogany ‘Base Tex 4x7 tulip ‘Beam "e* 18 cedar Pivot rods dowel Fixing pins round toothpicks: CHOOSING YouR wooD Inthe context of this easy:to-make project—no wood turn ing or fancy earving—all that le required of the wood ie that ite easy to cut and work That said, what hatter woods to use than tulip and mahogany? We chose tulip for the base and darrick; scraps of mahogeny tor the pivot plates, don- key head cheeks, connecting rod and handle; cedar tor var- fous bits and pigces, and shop-hought dowel for the pins and pivots. MAKING THE BASE, DERRICK AND BEAM Having spent time stuaying he working drawing (Fig 7-1) and the templates (Pig 7-2), bringing your tools to good order, and genersily making sure your chosen wood is in tip-top consition, draw the design to size and make a clear tracing, ‘Take your chosen ’/:"-thick wood, note how the grain needs to run in relation to the profiles, meaning the shape of the base, heam and derrick, and ‘than carefully transter the imagery accordingly. The best procedure is ta first establish the position of the baseline and the center lings, ten fx the position of te centerpoints for the holes and curves, and then finalize tho profilae with the compsee and ruler, Having marked the base slab, beam and derrick, and being satisfied with the way the imagery relates to ‘your chosen pieces of wood, move ta the scroll saw and set to work cutting out the protiles (Fig 7-3). 70 CIL PUMPING FIG FIGURE 7-3 ‘Although beth the base and the beam are simple structures, this ‘sll the more reason they need to be carefully marked. tf you Aocide to redosign suchand such adeta, bear in mind that ‘smooth onry curves are much easier tocutand work than small, tight angles. Having fretted out the three primary profiles, move to the bench drill and set to work sinking the various holes that make up the design. Don't worry too much about the two large pierced holes in the derrick (Fig 7-4)—they can be larger or smaller or even placed ina different position: it makes no cifference—but do make sure te pivot and fixing holes in the derrick and beam. are precisely placed. ‘procedure isto run the bit in for about 7", then bring itup and ‘out and clear the waste, run the drill in another’/.",clear the ‘waste and so on until the hele has been ut If yon try te force the ‘paca and run the hole through in ane graat thrust, you risk ‘splitting the wood or doing damage to the dill bt.FIGURE 7-5 {fs always a good ides to stop along the way and try out the ‘component parts for size. This method of working gives you time tonssess your progress, Finally, having cut out the three primary FEW cross ant arite ne cea, nave tt ting and set them in place one on top of another (Fig 7-6). I's important the derrick stands true to the base and the beam sits square. To this end, spend time sanding and achusting toa good tit. ‘MAKING THE PIVOT PLATES AND DONKEY HEAD Before you put tool to wood, cast your eyes aver the ‘working drawing (Fig 7-1) and templates (Fig 7-2), and see how various plates and parts came together. Nate how the pivot plates at the tall and center of the beam are cut and worked in pairs and pinned and glued at either side of the heam, while the donkey head is made up of ‘three layers and loose pivoted on the endof the beam. When you have a clear understanding of just how the parts need ta be worked, meaning the order af work and the procedures, take the two ‘/«'-tulek pleces ‘of wood that make up the tail and center plates and pin thom togather with a couple of tacks so you have a, ‘two-layer sandwich, Now, having drawn the imagery, fixed the center points, and drilled out the '/.’-diameter center plate pivot hole, tap a length of dowel in the hole to ensure ‘that the holes are identically placed, and run the wood, through the scroll saw (Fig 7-6). Repeat the procedure ‘with the tail plates, FIGURE 7-8 you need to cut out a numberof multiple parts, meaning Adontically matched parts t's a goed dea to layer up the wood, rill out any holes, and cut out all the partwat once, ‘When you have completed tha two sats of plates—all cleanly ‘retted and drilled—set them in place on the ‘beam, and have a trial fitting. Pencil label the plates with alignment marks so you know what goes where and how, and decide which of the surfaces are to be glued. ‘To make the donkey head, rerun the layering and. cutting procedures as already described, only this ‘me, cut through three layers of wood rather than two. FIGURE 7-7 ‘Having achioved the thres identical pretilas that makeup the donkey head, cut away the waste from the middle layer. O1L PUMPING RIG nFIGURE 7-8 ‘Tho head neads tobe a looso-rocking fit on the end of the beam. ‘Spend time variously rounding over the end of the beam or ccutting the hole higuer. Having achieved the three identical soroll-sawn profiles that make up the donkey head, carefully saw avray the waste from the middle leyer (Pig 7-7). If you have dono it correctly, when you reascambio the thrae layare. ‘tha thin layers on the outside and the thicker, partially cutaway layer at the center—you should finish up witha little hatlike structure that sits neatly on the end of the beam (Pig 7-8). Check the head for size. MAKING THE CONNECTING ROD, GRANK PLATE AND HANDLE Have a look at the working drawing (Fig 7-1) and templates (Fig 7-2), and see now the connecting roa needs to be cut and worked. Note that the row of lind holesis no more than a decorative feature. Draw the profiles to size, and transfer them through, to your chosen pieces of wood. ‘The crank and handle plates (Fig 7-8) are straight- forward: establish the position of the pivot holes, drill them, and then fret out the profiles on the scroll saw. tfnan younave te on ino Rane aco. Intane we considered ving the handle whet ame tobe hetont atthe machine ‘The connecting rad is simple enough to make: All you dois fret out the total shape, run the pivot holes through with the '/-’-diameter hit, and then sink the blind holes at regular step-otfs along the center line (Fig) 7-I) 7a CILPUMPMNG F ‘The precise shapesof the crank plate and the crank aren't ‘important, as ong as the profiles are well placed with the run of ‘te grain and the position of the holes is positively established. ‘To this end, you must deuble-chuck the position of the hola conter pointe and see to it that the initial marking relates te the grain. FIGURE 7-10 ‘Try the handle plats for sizo, and make sure there is enough clearance between the swing and the hase. FIGURE 7-11 ‘To mark the connecting rod, draw in the center ling, establish the distance between the two pivot points, and decide en the best ‘ze of drl1bit for the bind holes,FIGURE 7-12 Set out all the component parts—all drilled and with mostof the raw edges sanded back—and check them for potential problems. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING Whan you have completed all the component parte ‘work surface, and check them for potential problems (Ag 712). ‘When you are pleased with all the component parts, take the finest-grade sandpaper anil swiftly rub downall the faces, edges and corners Pay particular attention to bearing faces, meaning surfaces thet are golng to rup together, Having drilled, pegged, glued and clamped the derrick to the base—and putit to one side so ft is out of harm's way—then comes the tricky task of gluing and fitting the donkey head. Being mindful that the head needs to be a loose pivoted fit on the end of the beam and the beam and middle layerare both cut from the same °/:" inch wood, it follows that the head end of the heam will need to he reducad in thickness. The best procedure Is to glue and clamp the head, try it on the end of the beam for size (Fig 719), and then reduce the boam thickness accordingly. Have a triel placement of the various beam plates and make sure you are clearin your own mind asto how the parts need to came together. Fit, drill, glue and peg the two pivot plates in place, set the two connecting-rod bearing plates at the tail, end of the beam, and glue and clamp them in place. FIGURE 7-13 ‘Having glued and clampod the donkey head, try it on for size, and reduce the width of the beam end for a loose fit ‘When you ere happy with the placement of the various plates, set the donkey head on the heam, and fit with a pivot rod. Make sure the heat is a loose-nodding fit (Pig 7-14. Finally, glue the two rods in place in the crank plate, set all the pins in place, and have a trial runto test out the movement, Drill and pivot the donkey baad so it isa loose-nodding fit. If you ‘have got right, the peg should he a tight Ht through the beam, ‘and 4 Jooge fit through the sides of the head. PROBLEM SOLVING + Asalways, much will depend on your toolkit I you can't ‘gt use of large drill it sizes or you have fo make your owa ‘dowels or whatever, you will of coursehave to modify the techniques accordingly. OLPUMPING RIS 7aPROJECTS Centrifugal Impeller Pump PROJECT BACKGROUND The poor, old, impeller pump is one of those clever little bite of unsung machinary that's boon around for such a long time that we either take it for granted or simply don’t know it’s there! Centrifugal impeller pumps are used ri- marily tomove liquid along pipes. And they aren't too par- ticular about the liquid: weter, oil, petroleum, beer—it's all the same to them, ‘The classic centrifugal impeller pump consists cf a wheel enclosed within a hollow chamber or reservolr, with ‘tha wheel having slicing gates and the chamber having slots or holes. in action, when the wheel spins around, tne getes fly outward, with the effect that the liquid within ‘tha box is suddenly caught up in an enclosed space thet is getting smaller. And, of course, when the ody of fastmov- ing liquid passes one of the slots or holes, itis forced out under proscure. ‘With oar pump, when the crank handle is turned, the centrifuaal force causes the little gates to slide out of thelr slots and follow the casing profile (right). PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a look at the working drawing (Fig §-1) and the tem- plates (Fig 8-2), and see that, in essence the machine is made up of four primary elements: a fretted hase slab, cradle and collar, tumed tube, or chamber, that sits in the cradle, and tumed shaft with integral vanes, or gates, that pivot within the chamber. ENTRIPUGAL IMPELLCENTRIFUGAL IMPELLER PUMP CENTRIFUGAL IMPELLER PUMP 75:‘Copyrighted Material CENTRIFUGAL IMPELLER PUMP WORKING DRAWING EEE EEE aac 7 CENTRIFUGAL IMPELLER PUMP ‘Copsrighied Matetial‘Copyrighted Material CENTRIFUGAL IMPELLER PUMP TEMPLATES FIGURE 8-2 Tho scale is twa grid squares wr. A Dasssith, 2 Crndle. sles. canter, Meta tuninge. chamber, shalt D Pipes E Boserma, F Crmiepite © Crenichendle 7 ‘Comsrighied MatetialCUTTING LIST A Base slab Yer Ai/e7 cedar 5 Craile: sides 27x66 plum center ax G*Gbeech Main turnings axa» 200uy camber SCS att D_ Pipes Let beech E Boss ring Yoo P alan F _Crankplate xB/ax¥/ plum Crank handle 2/e—/- white dowel ‘MAKING THE BASE, GRADLE AND CRANK HANDLE whan you have studied the working drawing (Fig 81), tomplates (Fig 8-2) and the various hands-on illustrations, and when you have gathered your wood and brought yous tocls to order, draw the design to size, and makea tracing, ‘Take your chosen pieces of wood—the piece for the slab and the piece for the crank plate—and use the square, rulerand compasses to mark the profiles. Having marked the siab and crank nandle, take the three leyers that make up the ciadie, and sandwich ‘thom togother oo that you have a total slab thickness of about P77, ‘Take the pencil, ruler and compasses and mark the shape of the cradle on the topmost layer of the sandwich. Make sure you arrange the profile so the grain runs through the cradle from the tap down te baseline, With the desicn carefully drawn out, tap three or four ‘thin pins tough me sandwich—down Uxough the area of waste that is to be cut away—to ensure the three layers etay put. ‘When you are hapny with the layout, use the serotl sav to cut out the profile Continue feeding the wood into the saw, slowly ‘maneuvering around the curves, cutting out the circle of waste and so on until the profile is cut cut (Ag 8-3), 7e CENTRIFUGAL IMPELLER PUMP FIGURE 8-3 ‘Secure the sandwich with pins and retout the form onthe scroll ‘sam, Becarsfulat the end of the cut—when the layers a Iongor pinned—that the layers don’ slide out of kilter. ‘Take the crank plate, crill the holes through onthe trill press, and then fret out the shape on the serall saw (Fig 8-4). FIGURE 8-4 (Chock the crank handlefor shape and size—t use alength of owol—and take an accurate caliper reading of the shalt hole, Finally, sand the parts to a goad, smooth, round- edged finish,‘Copyrighted Material ‘TURNING THE CHAMBER AND SHAFT BB Before you put toolto wend, haves look at the working drawing (Fig &-1), the templates (Fig 8-2) snd various hands-on photographs, and see that the main hhody of the pumps made up of twa components: hollow chamber and shaft. Nota the way the guteide of the shaft 1a epigotad and the matde of the chambar is stepped ca the ‘two come together fora smooth-turning, sliding fit ‘Having noted thet we've turned the twa component parts from apingle length of wood, this ts not to say youcan't go for two separate turnings. When you ere clear on the order of work end the Procedures take your 4° « 4" square saction of eey-tn-turn waod—we use tulip—and establish the and center points hy drawing crossed diagonals ‘Tom down the wood to azaund section of shut 3", then tel the rulerend divitiers and merk along the cylindr al the step-offs that make up the design. Working fromright 0 lef, that is, fromthe tailstock end, ellow small amount fr teilstock waste, /«' for theback end of ‘the chamber */’forthe first cove, shout1'/" forthe neck, 2/¢ for the naxt cove,*/s' forthe ead, 1" for what will ba ‘hesrant band of the chamber, sbout Vs" for waste, /e"for what will be the spigoted end of the drive shaft meaning ‘the bit with the sliding gates, 4" for the Jangth of the shaft, sand the remainder for headstock waste (Fig 8-5) With sll the primary step-off guidelines m place, use ‘the parting too] and round-nosed gauge to eink the main blocks of waste (Fig 6-6). Aumto finish up with e chamber neck at about 1/' in diameter 50 it's a nioa, osfortable fit in the oradia collar. Sink tha hetwean- component waste go yau are left with central core at about I With the chamber profile crisply roughad out, taka the tual of yourchoice—we use g rountd-nnsed scraper—and carefully tum the decorative coves and ‘heading ta shape (Fig 8-7), As to the precise shape of the ovas and beads, laoktothe templates (Fig B-2) and sea ‘that they are really open ta your own interpretation. go When you have achieved what you eonsider 19 @ (good chamber profile follow through the sizing and roughing out procedures as already described, and tum down the shaft and spigot to ehape, Tha spigat needs to fit ‘the holemade dy a 23/s"-diameter bt, while the shatt needs to bea sliding fitin a I"-diameter hole FIGURE 3-8 ‘Uso tre parting toalte seifay stok the large areas of waste. De ‘wary when you are staking the narrow tench of waste that tne {tool doesn't gst stuck and‘bind. To this end, best cat the torach ‘sugnoy wtaor tnan your toot. FIGURE 2-7 ‘Uso.areund.nased gouge or scraper tetumntha reundod.ceve ‘carves tm shape, Be watchfal that thetoa! dowsa" snag and jump. CENTRIFUGALIMPELLERPUMP 70 ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material When you have completed both tarmgs—the chamber and shaft—sink the 1"-diameter hole in the endof tha chamber to adepth of about 2", and pazt them off from the lathe (Fig 8-8). ‘Jake the shaft end mount 31 on the lathe po the stem of the shaft tshheld secura inthe jaws of the chuck ‘and the spigot end is centered and pivoted on the iva enter at the tallsteck, This done, usethe parting tool end ‘the skew chisel to tum tha bass and decorative rings and th gunarally clean up (Fig 8-2). When you ere pleased with the shaft, remave 2 from thelethe, and mount the chamber with tha bark end of the chamber held in the chuck—the end with tha blind. ‘hole—and the front end pivoted on the live tarlstocke enter. Face up the front end of the chamber, fit tha drill cchupk in the tailotnelr, and sat tn work boring out tha ‘two holee—the large one at 2/4" diameter and the other endof the I’ shaft bole, First sink the large-diameter hala ‘ta depth of then dollow up with the I'-dismeter hale and then finally tidy up withthe large-sized bit (Fig 2-10) ‘Now have a trial fitting. The shaftmeeds to bea emaoth-sliding ft though the chamber, tha face af ‘the spigot needs to be est bark a Ittle from thefront rim of ‘the chamber end the whole works has tobe a snug fitin ‘the cradle (Fig 8-11) BO CENTRIFUGAL IMPELLER DUMP ‘Wim you have tumodstt ta bess and tho rio atthe treat ar ‘me spigot, spend time generally toying up. Makan patatot ‘leaning ont the step se theback face of the spigot is at right angles tothe shat. FIGURE 8-10 ‘Lyon stom tue bate im stagos by rapeatodty running (ett in and ‘out, you will aveid barat the Wood ar the BR. Becaratul when ‘yon exit that yau dant throw the workplecest!-conbst. = aa" FIGURE #11 Hava trial Mtting. The eharuber needs tobe a tigut-eippeanein ‘maeroaie, wtio Mw shaft needs to be aba to tum rroany wtEata ‘Mochamber. ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material PIGURES.12 \Qop) Un the spigot saat well grippon and suppor tea between ‘comple of wooden ¥-Macks, run tue */."-Glametor aril holes a {the way dewa through the thickness ofthe spigot aud. ‘ottom) Support the saattin or on tae V-bIeCR, and clear tae ‘waste with a mail, fno-toothed gunts ur brass-backed hamdsan. Having marked an the front face of tha spigat the size and position af the four gate slots, the tricky ‘task of cutting them aut comes. The best method is ta first lear the ends of the slots with the 7/«"-dismeter drill— ‘this establishes the with and dapth ofthe slot—and then ‘use the hack saw ta run parallel cuts fram therum of the spigot through to the drilled holes (Fig 6-12) Fmally, run two '/e"-diametar holes through the rim, ofthe chember for the pipes, and cute slice eut of ‘the hendie end of the shank in readiness fer fitting the crank with atenon wedge, ‘TURNING THE PIPES AND BOSS RING B With the groatar part of the project made, now 1s the ‘ume tn look to the working drawing (Pig 8-1) and then perhaps to madify the unmade components, because Af your way of working is anything like ming, then chances ‘ora some part will need to be reshaped or resized. When you have a clear understanding of precisely how the remainder af the project needs 10 go, tale ‘the length of l"» 1” square section wood, meaning the Pisce youhava chosen for the pipes and mount it in the nthe as already described. Bo Swaftly turn down the wood to a diameter of about 3/4, then take the ruler end dividers andmark ell the ‘tep-offs that make up tha design. It's beautifully easy; all youdo ig allow about fr" for tallatock waste, and then mark eight V2" step-aif. ‘With the step-off guidelines mm place, take the skew ‘chisel and round-nosed gauge and set to work pyctemancally turning offall the litle eurves and grooves, After turning the string of repeat cutsthat make up ‘thetwo litle pipes, bum m the decorative V-cuts vith the wire, and clean upwith the skavw chisel (Fig 8-15), mally fit tha/«" Foremer bit m tha tatlstock drill ‘Chuck, run ahole through the whole length of the ‘turning end then part aff ‘With the twa pipes made and offthe lathe, use the coral saw to ewifily cuba ita disk blank of plum ta size—at needs to be ebout /3' thick and I'/e" mn diameter— ‘snd mount it in the Jaws of the chuck. Now tom down one face of the blanketo an aoourate tisk, reversathe disk tn the chuck and tum tha DDther face yaund over the exige of the disk so you have a ula domed shape. Drill the turning through with the *"/#"-diameter drill bit (Fig 8-14) FIGURE 8-13 ‘Uso tastoor tae show cts ta sot inthe warieas stmps ‘ana grosves. FIGURE 8-14 ‘Deo tue"//" bitte ran the Roto all the way taromyh tae hess. If yan. ‘ar warning in tho way described, you shoud be ate ta run tho [bit thropgh weithoat touchtag the Inside face of tha chuck Jaws. CENTRIFUGALIMPELLERPUMP 1 ‘Commrigiied Material‘The component parts—all cut and ready for putting together. Lastly, having first checked that the hos does in fact tit inte the ring, mab it down with the graded. sandpapers and take it off the lathe, ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING Check the component parts ‘or potential problems and make sure they fit together (Fig 8-15). Cut the little sliding gate blocks to size, note how they fitin place, and genarally rub down all the mating feces so the gates are a well-contained sliding fit. Set the gates In the siots, and nold in place with tne boss ring (Pig 8-16); set the pipes in thelr holes; and ‘set tha crank handle on the end of the shaft (Pig 9-17). Set the chamber in the cradle, and draw a couple of registration marks so you know what goes where S LAI BS ‘Set the ring on the bossso the gates are nicely contained; they need tobe # loose sliding fit. and how (Fig 8-18). Generally pencil mark the position of the cradieon the hase and the crank on the shaft sa you ‘will be able to complete the gluing stage without giving, much thought to the positioning. Finally, when you are pleased with the look and ‘it ofthe whole project, glue it together (Fig 8-19), Drill and fit the decorative dowel pegs (Fig 8-1), wipethe whole workpiece with the teak oll, and bumnish itto @ sheen finish. PROBLEM SOLVING + Ifyou are new to wood turning Tstrongly recommend you {gt efour-jaw chuck, tallstock drill chuck, anda relly good set of Forstner dil bits, FIGURE 8-17 Set the pipes in the holes so that they are alignad with the azis 0 ‘the tuning. FIGURE 8-18 “IPUGAL IMPELLER PUMP ‘The chamber needs to be a tight-gripped {fit betwoon thocradle and the collar. FIGURE 8-19 Glue fit the chamber in place in the cradle, and then glue mate surfaces and sat the collar in positio:‘Copyrighted Material PROJECTS Sector Wheel Bearing Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND Sector wheel bearings arg in many ways, at the very heart bf engineering systems. Sector wheels ara the “wheels within whaels” that keep everything maving. Thetr primary function is ta smooth out the operation by reducing friction, in much the sama way a roller bearings and ball bearings. In fact, sector Jhoarings ware mvented hofore all the zest; they ware tha [prototype for bearings that ware ta follow. ‘The working: tof this machine is wonderfully simple and direct: as tha crank handle is turned on tha fomd pivot, the captured wheols within the septar frame ‘will follow the fixed path defined by the edge of the pan (right), PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘Have a goad, long look at the working drawing (Fig 8-1) and ‘the templates (Fig9-2), and consider that, ata grid scale of ‘wo squames to 1, tha machine stands about 5° in total eight and 7" across the diameter of the wheel pan. ‘The machine is made up almost entivaly of tured ‘componants—the pan, bearing wheels, handle and knobs SECTOR WHEELBEARING MACHINE 8 ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material SECTOR WHEEL BEARING MACHINE 94 SECTOR WHEEL BEARING MACHINE ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material SECTOR WHEEL BEARING MACHINE WORKING DRAWING ! I | 4 ayrsst ttt * aan | SECTOR WHEELEEARING MACHINE 95 ‘Comsrighied MatetialSECTOR WHEEL BEARING MACHINE TEMPLATES to 1"forthe black silhouettes ‘and four squares to tne inch {or the line drawing. D Lecorat E Ams(3) F fm inobs an 1 and,CUTTING LIST ‘A Large pan 28» 8 maple orbeech B Bering wheels 2x2 beech ie Sector frama *h= 4 4cheny D Decorative eee S walnut nods (6) E Buns () TT 10 beech F Bunknob G_ Handiebase 141 x cherry H_ Handle si sB cherry 1_Washer: 1+1*6.cherry Pivots and pegs Ys dowel (or round toothpicks) CHOOSING YOUR wooD As with all the wood-turning projects, the wood must be easy to tun The wood must be well eaasaned, etraight grained, and generally described as being easy ta turn. We settled for beech for the large pan and the bearing wheels, American walnut for the decorative knobs, and beech for tha foot, MAKING THE PAN Having studied the working drawing (Fig 9-1) and the templates (Fig 9-2), carefully selected your ‘wood, and painstakingly planned ine sequence of work 90 you know how to proceed, take the 2"-thick slab of beech—the piocs for the bese—and markit witha, ‘Tediemeter circle, Cut out the blank on the band saw, and mount it ona €"-diameter faceplate. Use short, fat screws at about 2/<" long for fixing, with about °/e” of the screvr going into the wood, ‘Mount the whole works on the lathe, set out all your tools so they ate readily available, and check that you and the lathe are in yoou, reliable working order, Fosition the tool rast avarthe hed ofthe lathe, and use a laige gouge to swiftly turn down the blank toa smooth diameter of 7” ‘Mark the center point with the toe of the skew chisel, and then fix the dividers—first to a radius of °/” and then 1°/."—and mark the face of the wood with the various lines that make up the dasign (Fig 9-3). Move the tool rest, ut to the side of the lathe, and mark the hand thet runs around the edge of the wheel vol rato god smoot hap-ted ish The st vosking roca tit estab the depth at ho sae endthentoclean up tne rest le 0, Continue turning the decorative beads that run around the rim, continue turning the edge, and so on (Fig 5-5), FIGURE 8-3 ‘Wee the ruler and dividersto mark the ‘central pivot point, the width of the track, and the decorative hand that rune around the taming. FIGURE 8-4 of the yan. ‘Use the parting tool to lower the wasteto ‘the desired depth. Hold the tool so the {inside facois at right angles tothe bottam FIGURE 8- Use the toolof yourchaice to turn the Aocorative beads that run around the face of the pan. Nate that musing an old fila veground to abeaklike point. SECTOA WHEEL BEARING IWhen hapay with the profiles and finish, takea length of wire and friction burn the grooves that decorate the channel that runs around the edge of the ran (Ag 8-6). Warning: on no account should you wrap the ‘wire around your fingers or have loop handles; use sticks so the wire can be swiftly released if there are snaris. Ey a ee tects ‘emooth finioh, leave the turning on the facaplate, and take it off the lathe, ‘TURNING THE WHEELS ‘Take the length of 2" « 2" square wood you've selected for the wheels, establish the end center points by drawing crossed diagonals, and mount it securely on the lathe. Having tumee down the wood to the largest possible round section, use the dividers and parting tool te thick ‘wheels at 1°/." diameter. It is bestto clear the bulk cf tha rough with the gouce and then to use the skew chisal to shave the turing toa good fit and finish (Fig 9-7), out the two wheel thicknessea, Aim fer two When you think the wheels are ta size, carefully draw the tailstock out of the way, and havea trial fitting of the wheels in the pan (Fig 9-8). Se cautious that you don't knock the workpiece off-center, in wins niga sara Fa revit ote pan ace, date wes toa 9.) Hotei nave ataftork hick ou con FIGURE 8-7 ‘Use the loft hand both to support the workpiece ccatting pressure, to control the FIGURE S-3 ‘when you think the wheclsareto size, stop thelathe, back the ‘alls tack out of theway, and have a tral fitting, Aim for a small ‘space hatwaen tha sida of the heal and the canter of thapan. FIGURE 8-6 ‘Firmly hold the copper wire on top ofthe spinaing workpiece to {friction burn a series of decorative rings. Warning: onno account should you wrap the wire around your fingersor haveloop FIGURE 8-9 ‘Having cloaned up the face of the first wheel, hack the tails tack outof the way and carefully part off.FIGURE 8-10 ‘Use the parting tos] tosink the channel at the bottom ofthe pan. Lastly, having first run ‘/«"-diameter holes through, the wheel centers, mark the position of the whee! centers on the bed of the pan track. This done, remount the pan on the lethe, and cut the center-of-wheelline with a /<"-wido, /"-doop channel (Pig 8-10), ‘TURNING THE DECORATIVE KNOBS AND BUNS First ofall, have alook at the working drawing (Fig 9-1) and the project photographs, and see that there ara six decorative knobs set at 60° intervals around the top rim of the pan and three knobs, or buns, set at 120° intervals around the underside of the base. Bo Peel free to change the shape and size of the turnings to suit your needs, select the longth of ‘wood for the decorative knobs, and mount it on the lathe. With the wood securely mounted between the four-jaw chuck and the tailstock, turn it downto a diameter of about '/-”. Use the dividers to mark the string of beadlike repeats that make up the six knobs T used a" module—'/." for the top of he knob, /«" for the bottom, and '/«" for the stalk or spigot (Fig 8-11). Sink the waste, meaning the width of the spigot, to match one of your drill bit sizes, Aim for a diameter between /-" and °/.", With the little blanks all cut to size, take the skew chisel and set to wark systematically turnmg them, tothe desired shape. Work along the turning in one direction ané then rerun in the other direction. Turn off the bottom shoulder on all six forms, then cut in the decorative lines on all six forms (Fig 9-12), FIGURE 8-11 ‘Tum down the cylinder so you have a hoadlike string of little ‘drum shapes, Note how the wood is securely held in the chuck ‘and pivated on a live tailsteck center. the skew chisel to turn off the sharpshoulders, ‘The host procedureis te work along the turning in one direstion ‘and then rarun in tha other direction. I'you have doubts about ‘vour turning skils,tura offmore shapes than you need and select thechoice sat, ‘When you have achieved what you figure are six well-turned knobs, take the wire and merk each midline with a decorative, friction-scorched stripa, Have a lookat the working drawing (Fig 9-1) and the various photographs, and see that we turned off four buns—three to he used as feet and oneto be usedasa support under the handle end of the little wheel frame. TOA WHEEL BEARING MACHINE. 1Working in much the same way as already described, mount the wood on the lathe, turn it down toa cylinder, use the dividers to set out the step-offs that makeup the design, reduce the waste at the spigot and so ‘on until you have four identical little drum-shaped blanks (Ag 9:13} hea ison themiline and engin the etn oe "Genta the tc ut ino binds sine tte Yoav ding propeny te itng-aling atin wl cat otaon et waste wat he endo th as ho fa shoul beinthevaloy wt the tr uppers. Sand each bun toa smooth finish, then part off the ‘turnings from the lathe, remount them one at a time inthe jaws of the chuck, and sand the part-oif area to a smoath finish (Fig £-15). MAKING THE WHEEL SECTOR BEARING FRAME Firot of al, have a good look at the working drawing (Fig 9-1) and the line drawing (Fig 9-2) and see haw ‘tha form is drawn with a compassand ruler. Note how the main pivot point is set at the canter of a large cizcle, while the bearing whee! centers are set on the circumference of ‘tha circle, When youhave aclear understanding of how to achieve the image, draw it an your chosen piece of °/¢-thlek wood so the center line runs In the direction ofthe grain, Fix the position of the four holes, and run them through with the °/«"-diameter drill bit. Then move to ‘tha scroll saw and fret out the profile. Being mindful that ‘tha speed of cut will change as you cut alternately with, and across the grain, run the line of cut alittle to the waste side of the drawn line. 80 SECTOR WHEEL BEARING MACEINE FIGURE 8-13 ‘Use the parting too! to swiftly sink the areas FIGURE 8-14 ‘When you have achieved what you consider tobe awell-matched ‘sot of buns, tidy up the spigots with the parting tool, and use the the shaw chisel te vary nearly part off the turnings oxe FIGURE © ‘Hol the bus by its spigot, and use the sandpapor te rub down tho art-off point ta a smooth finish. Using a large-sized drill bit—ar you could cut a hole 1 the soroll saw—reduce the weight and lighten up ‘the appearance of the form by piercing the center area (Fig 9-16). Be careful not to weaken the structure by having the pierced window too near the edge of the protile,FIGURE 8-18 ‘Being careful not to get too near the edge of the profile, uss a large-sized drill it tobore ont the pierced window. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING When you nave made all the component parts thet make up the machine—the disk shape pan, two whoole, eootor frame, and various dacorative hits and knobs—check them aver just to make sure they are free from damage, give them a light rubdown with the teak oil, and then clear the work susface to prepare for putting the pisces together (Fig 9-17). Before you do anything else, especially if thera isa likelihood that one of the component parts is made from suspect wood—it might be damp or have aknot or whatever—set the wheels in the tama and tne ame on the main plvot, end try out the movement. Ifall is correct, ‘tha contact betwoon the wheols and the inside face of the pan should be such that there is just enough friction to set tha wheels in motion but not so much thet they stick (Aig 9-16), 1tneed be, take @ fold of the finest-grade sandpaper and mab down the wheel rims to fit. Glue the three bun feet and the six knobs in place, ue the main pivot in tha center of the pan, giue the ends of the wheel pivots in the sector frame, fit and glue the handle in place, fit me wheels in the frame and the frame on the center pivot and so on until the task is done. ‘And, of cource, i! and when you find that such and sucha ‘component part sticks or is defarmed or whatever—which sooner orlater you most certainly will—then be ready to ease and motify the offending part accordinaly. Finally, wipe away the dust, burnish the oiled surface to a sheen finish, and the machineis ready for action. FIGURE 8-17 ‘Setout al the component parts, and check them over for potential problems. FIGURE 9-18 ‘Whon you are ready for glus, dip the points of reund toothpicks, ‘wedge the points in loose-fit holes, make adjustments for agood ‘tt, and trim back when the giue is dry. PROBLEM SOLVING “think fairto say that the innate character ofthis project ‘s such that it needs to be made on the late, But whatto da ifyou havent a lethe? Well, tyouare really keen, you could possibly seek out a lathe atthe local schoo! orjoin a group oF ‘build your own lathe. + Being mindlul that as wood dries it shrinks across the width ofthe grain this is all the more reason you must use well- ‘seasoned wood for making disks and wheels it yor find that ‘he wheels jam when youbbring the machine into the house ‘avon though they atartedaut ae apertsetft~thieiea good ‘ndieation thatthe wood is stil drying shrinking and moving, Avoid using woods that are so inherent unstable that they sever stop moving, + Ifat any point along the way you find that a component ‘art splits ordoesn't seem ta want to come outright arlooks ‘wrong or whatever, always beready to give it another try. SECTOR WHEEL BEARING MACHINE, eaPROJECT 10 Flywheel Propeller Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘This machine is made up of two key engineering devices, namely, « flywheel and a propeller. Flywheels must surely be one of tha most commonly used enginsoring mecha- nisms of all time: they are everywhere... In clocks, in auto- mobiles, in motors, and in just about everything from toys and toolsto tram cars end traction engines. ‘The dictionary says of a flywheel: ‘a flywheel is @ heavy ‘whee! that stores kinetic energy and smooths the opera- ton of a reciprocating engine by meintaining a constant speed of rotation over the whole cycle" (night). PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘Have # goad long look at the warking drawing (Fig 10-18) ‘and the templates (Fig 10-18). Note thet the propeller boss, flywhool, bell-shaped distance hubs at sither site of the flywheel, pull cord ring, and ball stop at the end of the shaft areall turned. If you dont have a lathe, you can modify the farms and. make them from flatwood cutouts, The efficiency of the movement hinges primarily on the Alywhee’s precision and any nonturned modifications must bemade with extra special care. 2 FLYWHEELPROPELLER MACHINEFLYWHEEL PROPELLER MACHINE FIYWHEEL PROPEL! MACHING 08FLYWHEEL PROPELLER MACHINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 10-18 ‘At agrid scale of two squares ‘to 1, the machine stands 6” ‘nigh from the underside of me ‘base through ta the top of the Aiywhool, about o” long, and of the propeller. ate roosts wen fai | notte ie bh 84 FLYWHEEL PROPELLER MACHINEFLYWHEEL PROPELLER MACHINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 10-18 ‘Thoscale is four grid squares to". Note that the position of the stx notes onthe nywneel {steed wit a compass, ‘stanchions (2) Spacers (2 Pull rng. Bese. PropelCHOOSING YouR wooD ‘Two considerations influenced our cholce of wood: ine need for the ‘lywhesl te beas heavy es possible and the fact that the wheel was going to he made on the lathe. We settled for European beach forthe hase slab, North, American cherry for the stanchions and the small ‘turnings, and North American maple for the flywheel. MAKING THE BASE Having studied the working drawing (Fig 10-1) and templates (Fig 10-1B), take the °"-thick slab of beech—the piece for the bese—and mark it withall the measurements that make up the eesign, Cut the base to size with your chosen tools and sand it down toa smooth finish. Have another look at the working drawing (Fig 10-1A) so you know what goes where and how, and ‘than usea soft pencil, ruler and square to mark the base, with all the guide and placement lines. For example, label the propeller end, draw in an end-to-end center jine establish the position af the two stanchions, and so on. MAKING THE STANCHIONS ‘Take your choson piece of wood and transfor the lings of the design from the working drawings through to the wood. Tip: usually draw the design up to full size on the work-out paper, make tracing, and then use the tracing to establish the primary reference points, Some woodworkers paste ¢ paper pattern on the wood and ‘than cut through the paper, wood andall. 86 FLYWHSEL PROPELLER MACHIN go ‘Use the scroll saw to cut out the profiles. ‘Mark the position of the three holes: the 2e'-dlameter shaft hole and the other two holes at'/s" and P/*" diameters, ‘when botn cutouts have been identically marked, yun the holes through on the drill press. It's important from workplace to workpioca that the chaft holes ate the same distance up from the hassling, so spend time getting it right. Fencil label the stanchions for the propeller end and ‘which direction the faces are looking. ‘TURNING THE FLYWHEEL ‘Take your 2"-thick slab of wood, tix the center point by drawing crossed diagonals, and thenuse the compasses/dividers to mark it with a circle at a little over 5" in diameter (Fig 10-2). Cut out the blank en the band saw, and mount it ana 3"-diameter screw chuck. ‘Mount the whole works on the lathe, and check thet you and the lathe are in good, safe working order. Position the tool rest averthe side of the lathe, and. use a laige gouge to swiftly turn down the blank toa ‘smooth diameter of «little over 5" FIGURE 10-28 Fiz the contor of the slab by drawing crassed diagonals, draw: ‘the circle, and thenclear the waste with the band saw,‘Move the rest over the bed of the lathe go you can, ‘work the wood face on, and use your chosen toolsto turn off the face of the disk, ‘Mark the center point with the toe of the stew chisel; then fix the dividers to a radius of about 1°/s", and mark the face of the wood with a 3'/:"-dlameter circle, Note: the circle must be slightly bigger than the diameter of your seraw chuck Use the parting tool and skew chisel to sink and ‘waste the center of the disk to a depth of at least .". Bring the whole central area to a good, smonth finish, Use the gougeand skew chisel to rund over the edge so you havea radius curve of about "/3” (Ag 10-25). Having tumed down one radius curve, Nip the tool over, and start the curve on the other cide of the ‘wheel (Fig 10-3), Spend time cleaning up one side of the turning (Fig 10-4) so the profile iscrisp and sharp, and then record the diameter of the sunken area with the dividers (Ag 10-5), Turn the wood over on the screw chuck, and rerunthe whole procedure on the ather side. Whan you have what you consider is aniealy turned flywheel, rub it down to # smooth finish, and take it off the lathe. a FIGURE 10-3, ‘When you kavecompleted the curve at oneside, tum the skew ‘chisel o i is nose down, and tidy up the V-section midline, FIGURE 10-4 ‘Woe the parting too! to clean up tho edge of the sunken area, FIGURE 10-28 ‘Use the skew chisel tocut the quartercircls carve that runs from the center line and around to therim of the sunken area. {use the side of the skew chisel like a scraper;it'snot very good {for the cutting edge, but it gets the job done without the mead, for changing tools, FIGURE 10-5 ‘Bofore you turn the workpiece everon the screw chuckand work ‘the other side, uso the dividers to take a radius reading. FIYWHEEL PROPELLER MACHINE 97FIGURE 10-6 ‘Maving used a compass tofix the position of the six holes, set the ‘flywheel on a diskof waste wood, and run the holes through with 2°/." bit. Everything needs to be well clamped and secure. Use the compasses to position the six holes, and rill them with a /:"-diameter Forstner bit. Lastly, dill out the central °/«"-alameter shatt hole (ig 10-6). ‘TURNING THE BELL-SHAFED SPACERS Have alook at the working drawing (Fig 10-14) and templates (Fic 10-18), Apart from the flywheel, there are five sacondlary turnings: two bell-shaped distance spacers—one either side of the fly-wheel—a ring that holds the pull string, a boss fo: the propeller blades, and a ball stop at the hack end of the shaft. ‘Take your piece of wood for the two bell-shaped spacers and turn \t down to a diameter of Y Use the dividers to mark the cylinder with all the step-offs. Allow asmall amount at each end for chuck waste, 1” for each of the spacers, and about '/" at, center for part-otf waste (Fig 10-7), FIGURE 10-7 ‘When you have achieved the ”-diamotor cylinder, use the ‘dividers to mark the stap-affs. allow asmall amount an each end for chuck waste, "foreach ofthe turnings, and about'/<"at the center for partotf waste, Study the shape of the bell (Fig 10-18), then use the small, round-nosed gauge and the skew chisel to tum cown the twa little forms to shape (Fig 10-8). 8 FLYWHEEL PROPELLER MACHINE FIGURE 10-8 {t your workpiece is supported in achuck, yon will e able to ‘cat the turnings one piece ata time from the lathe. Note the way ‘that weachleve symmetry by turning the two items as mirror- ‘image profiles. Theides is that we movs swiftly backward and forward trom side t side all the while making sure each stage is well matched, Fub down the turnings toa smocth finish, part them off from the lathe, and run them through with a/."- diamater hole—a hole to match the diamater of your shaft. ‘TURNING THE PULL STRING RING ‘Mount your chosen length of wood on the lathe— use a four-jaw chuck—and swiftly turn it down ta a diameter of about 1:/-" (Figs10-1A and B). Use the dividers to soribe the 1” length. Mark a center line with the toe of te skew chisel, and part off trom the tallstock, ‘With the workpiece still secure in the jaws of the four-jaw chuck, mount a 1’-diameter Forstnar bit in a dri chuck at the tailstock end of the lathe, and run a Y’-diameter hole through your turning (Fig 10-9). FIGURE 10-3 Driling out thering using a tailstock chuck and Forstner bt, ‘advance the tailstock at a steady rate, evary now and again pulling back to clear away the waste shavings.FIGURE 10-10 ‘Although, a the photograph shows, we ran the hole straight ‘through the ring, i's really best to upper! the ring by aliding it ‘ona length of waste dowel. Now rub down the tuming to a smooth finish, and part off from the lathe. Lastly, using the center line as a guide, and being sure to drill across th grain, run a °/."-diameter hale ‘through the ring—down through one side and on down uwough the otter (Fig 10-10), ‘TURNING THE PROPELLER BOSS AND MAKING THE BLADES ‘Mount your cerefully selected lenath of 1" « 1" square ‘wood securely onthe late, Before you go any further, have a look at the various drawings and photographs, and see that the boss is only partially turned—at the nose and the comers—with the sides left flat, The idea is that the propeller blades can be more easily fitted If ey are located on Nats. o ‘Whan you have a clear underetending of just how the wood is tobe worked, swiftly turn off the corners ofthe 1" «1° square section Having used the dividers to mark a single 1/"-Iong_ step-olf, take the skew chisel and tum down one end of the workpiece toa smooth, round-nosed, or dome, finish. Make the nose about /:" long and the flats about Yong (Fig 10-11), FIGURE 10-11 ‘Tum down the square section so there are unturned "/e-wide ‘flats on all fom oi FIGURE 10-12 ‘Usea sharp knife and asafe thomb-braced cutting action to ‘whittle the blades to shape and size, Bring the turning to a good, smooth finish, and part off from the lathe. Sink a °/.”- diameter hole inte the flat ond of the boss to a depth of about: diameter hole through one flat side and out of the other. ‘and run as Finally, when you have considered the shape of the propeller blades (Fig 10-18), takea knife and a couple of lengths of wood at about /:" thick by "wide by 3” long and whittle the blades to shape and size. Aim fora couple of well-matched padille-blade shapes (Fig 10-12), FLYWHEEL PROPELLER MACHINE _9fASSEMBLY AND FINISHING When you have made all the component parts—the base slab, two stanchions, flywheel, two spacers, pull cord ring, boss, propelier blades, and all the little dowel pegs and pins—then comes the fun task of putting everything together (Fig 10-19). Start by dy fitting and pegging the two stanchions in place on the base. Set the propeller end stanchion inplace, and then slide the shatt through the bearing, and make gure it runs free end easy, ‘Make sure the shaft is a smooth, accurate fit, then, slide the other component parts onthe shatt, drilling and pagging as you go.From the boss end, the order goes: front stanchion, spacer, flywheel, spacer, pull stringing, and back stanchion (Figs 10-14, 10-15, 10-16 and.10-17), Check the spacing and the movement and, if need be, cub down the shalt or the holes unt everytning isa smooth fit. You might also have to reduce the length of one or hoth ef the bell: chaped spacers. ‘With all the components in place on the shaft, spend time adjusting for best fit. Make sure the pin-fixing holesrun through the canter of both the component and the shatt, Fit the boss. Angle the propeller blades in the boss 80 they look ike fan blades (Figs 10-18 and 10-18). 200. FLYWHEEL PROPELLER MAGHINE FIGURE 10-13, ‘When you have completed all the component parts that ‘make uy the project, give them rubdown with the FIGURE 10-14 Pog thefirst stanchion in place, and alide the shaft and the first ‘spacer in pesition. FIGURE 10-15 Do your best to see that the fixing pin runs between rather than ‘across the holes,FIGURE 10-18 (Cot off the flywhoal pin sotha wheol is able to tura, and slide the other spacer in position. When everything is a good fit, pass the end of the ord through the pull hole and have a tryout. All you dois wind the string geod ana tigat around the shatt, fimmly hold the hase on the work surface-with your knuckles woll clear of the flywhosl—snd then give « goad, smooth pull on the cord, If ll is well, the flywheel will spin into action and then carry on spinning. Lastly, when you are pleased with the running action, glue and peg everything into place, and give ‘tha whole worksa swift wipe with the teak oil. Now the machine is finished and ready foraction, PROBLEM SOLVING + Ifyoulikethe idea of tis project but cant get use of altho, ‘you could use shop-hought tems forthaturned parts a large, ‘wooden whee! forthe flywheel: & lenath from the endof a ‘broomstick forthe boss; large, wooden beadsforthe spacers and end stop; and soon. + Ifyou decide to use a cifferent wood forthe flywheel, make sure it isa good weight and strong across the grain. In the Context ofthis project, avoid loose, lightweight wood ike Jelutong and ragged katy wood like pine + Be cazefulnot to get the glue on areas that are tobe led or ofl on areas that axeto be glued. + Ifby chance your lywio fixing hole rine acrese ane of the ssbclarge holes, making the round toothpick visible, then glue ‘theround toothickin niace and cutaway the bit when the alu is set. + Ifyou havea talstock dillchuck, you coulé maybe modify ‘the order of work and drill out the bel-shaped spacers while ‘they ate still onthe lathe, FIGURE 10-17 ‘Slide the pul ring ia place, and then fallow up with the ‘second stanchion. FIGURE 10-18 ‘Trim the propeller blade onda tea tight push fit and glue them in, place in the boss holes. ” FIGURE 10-19 Finally, glue fix theboss and the tail ball with round toothpicks, ‘and trim back when the glue is dry. VitREL PROPELLER MACHINE agaPROJECT 11 Pyramid Roller-Ball Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘The sphere, or ball, is perhaps ane of the mest perfect and dynamic of all forms. Wheals, dicks, sphoros, balls and all circle-related forms are complete, self-contained and full ofeneray. ‘This machine is made up of fourteen balls: three groups ofthree small balls, pivated and capturedin the hase frame, all topped off by five loose, larger balls. Inuse, the handle is, ‘turned, with the overall effect that the thres balls on the dive shaft revolve and in so doing set all the other balls in motion (night), MAKING WOODEN MECHANICAL MODELS PROJECT OVERVIEW Have @ good, long look at the working drawing (Fig 111) and the templates (Fig 11-2), and consider how this ma- chine beautifully illustrates a number of key engineering principles that have to do with bearings, friction drive and movement. And, of course, itis alsoa machine that pases a number of pretty gritty engineering questions. For exam- ple, can you guess whet direction the top halls will roll if you tum the handle counterclockwise? Or what will happen if you top off the whole stack of balls with yet another hell? 40R PYRAMID AGLLER-BALL MACHINEPYRAMID ROLLER-BALL MACHINE PYRAMID ROLLER-BALLMACHINE 108. Urheberrechtlich geschutztes MaterialPYRAMID ROLLER-BALL MACHINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 11-1 [At agrid scale of two squares ‘to 1, the machine stands about 4” nigh and 6'/¢" across ‘he flats of the frame. 404 PYRANID AOLLER-DALLMACHINEPYRAMID ROLLER-BALL MACHINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 11-2 ‘Those: ‘grid squares to”, a ewe ase ame, Large ans (5) Handle orank 205CUTTING LIST ‘A Base frame S/ox8xStulip B_ Large balls 5) 22+ 16 beech 7 © _Smaliballs(9) 2x2» 36beech D_ Fact bars (2) Wer lnd E Hantle crank 1 2 mahogany Pivot rods 7 dave CHOOSING YOUR wooD ‘This projact calls primarily for three wood types: a strong, heavy, tight-grained wood for the hase frame; a heavy- ‘weight, easy-to-turn wood for the nine small balls, and a heavy, easy-to-turn wood for the large bells, We settled for using tulip for the trame, beech for all the balls, and ma: hogany for the crank handle. MAKING THE BASE FRAME After looking at the working drawing (Fig 11-1) and templates (Fig 11-2), selecting your wood, and just as carefully planning out the order of work, take the */:"-thick slab of tulip—the piece for the hase—and fix the center by drawing crossed diagonals, This cone, use the compass to mark the slab with an &"-diameter circle, Cutout the circle with your chosen tool. Now mount it securely on the faceplate. Use short, fat screws (0 minimize damage (Pig 11-9). ‘Mount the whole works on the lathe, set out all your tools so they are readily available, and check that ‘you and the lethe are in good, safe working order, Position the tool rest at an angle to the bed of the lathe, and use a large gouge to swittly turn down the ‘lank to a smooth diameter of ‘Move the rest over the bed of the lathe so you can, ‘work the wood face on, and use your chasan tools to turn off the face and edge of the disk. Alm for an edae that is nicely rounded over at the working face (Fig 11-4}, ‘When you ere happy with the disk, rab it down to @ smooth finish, mark the center point with the toe of the skew chisel, and take the disk off the lathe. Use the compasses, square and ruler to draw all the lines that make up the design (Fig 11-2) anc to fix the precias position of the nine holes. Be sure to have the straight sidas aligned with the run of the grain Having made sure that all is correct, un the holes through with a1°/,"-diameter Forstner bit (Fig 11-8). It's important the holes are well placed and cleanly cut, ‘With all nine holes well placed and cleanly cut, run the disk through the band saw, and slice away the two areas of part-clrcie waste. FIGURE 11-3 ‘Align the facoplate with the center point, ‘and screw it securely in place. Try to place the screws so they occur in areas ‘of waste, which are tobe cut away. FIGURE 11-4 ‘edged finish, 308 PYRAMID AOLLER-BALLM. sata ‘Turn down the disk toa smooth, round: FIGURE 115 Run the holes through with the 17/<" Forstnar bit.FIGURE 11-8 ‘Having made sure the workpiece is standing square and true— ‘sothe drill itis perfectly aligned with the face of the wood— carefully mun the pivot rod holes dawn through the thickness. ‘Now for the most difficult part of the project! Look at the working drawing (Fig 111) and templates (Fig 11.2). The notion of giving the bas frame two flat edges ‘that are perfectly square and parallel to each other hasto do with the actual procedure of drilling the pivat holes through the thickness of the wood. Without the edges, how else could you make sure the holes are aligned? Whan you have made sure the edges are parallel and marked as many guidelines as you think necessary, nitthe’/< bitin the drill, set the workpiece on edge—with blocks and clamps—and run the pivot holes down tnraugh the wood so they are well placed in the thickness of the ‘wood and run across the centers of the holes (Fig 11-6). Still working on the drill press, sink a */:"-wida, /«'-deep stopped hole at the intersections between the holes ‘Take the hooked knife—or you might use @ scoop, or spoon gouge—and carve away the edges of the »/¢-diameter hole, Aim fora sculptured surface that runs ina smootn sweep from the top face of the frame down, into the dip and up again (Figs 11-7 and 11-8). ‘Whan you have a good frame, rub it down to a super ‘smooth finish, and cut the two little foot bars to fit. ‘TURNING THE NINE SMALL BALLS ‘Taking your length of 2" « 2” square section heech— the length for the small balls—establish the end centers hy drawing crossed diagonals, and mouat it seouraly on the lathe. FIGURE 11-7 ‘Usea hooked knife to carve the smeoth-curved dips at the intersections. Do not cut through inta the pivot rod holes, FIGURE 11-8 (Gross section showing the depth of the carved dips. Wire FIGURE 11-3 ‘Mark the cylinder with all the divider steprotts that make up thedesign. ‘With the wood at a smooth 1/:"-diameter cylinder, set the dividers to 1'/-" and step off all the guidelines ‘that make up the design. Starting at the chuck, allow?/." forchuck waste, 1/2" for the first ball, #'/:" for waste,1'/:" forthe second ball, ‘/:” for waste and so on along the length of the wood. Now reset the dividers to” and mark each step-off with a midiine (Fig 11-9), PYRAMID ROLLER-BALL MACHINE 107FIGURE 11-10 ‘Use the parting toe] tosink the waste to adepth of about'/.", FIGURE 11-12 ‘Uso the calipers to check the turnings. Note that at this stage the ‘halle look tobe slightly ogg shape ‘Take the parting tool and sink the bands of between- hall wastete « depth of /." 60 you ere left with a central eore at about '/2” (Fig 1-10). Whan you are happy with the markings, take the skew chisel and turn down the ball shapes The sequence of work along the length of the wood is: + Hold the skew chisel flat an the workpiece—on the mid- line—on the first bell nearest the headstock such that the heel is loaking toward the headstock, + Lift the handle uutH the blade begins to bite, and ten advance in a smooth rolling action, + Repeat the out from micline and dawn inta the valley. ‘until the ball begins to take shape + Having turned down one half of the hall, move on to the next ball in line, and rerun the action. + When you have turned down the left-hand side of every ball, go hack to the first bell in line, flip the chisel over so ‘tha heel is looking toward the tailstock, and then rerun the sequence of cuts for the other side of the balls. oa PYRAMID AOLLER-BALLMACHINE FIGURE 11-11 ‘Do your hest to make sure the string of balls are well matchod. FIGURE 11-13 Drill out the /."-diameter pivot hols; use the turned midline asan alignment guide ‘When you have tumed the whole string of balls ‘more or less to shape (Fig Il-Il), ga backto the first ball in line, and use the calipers (Fig 11-12) and skew chisel—and maybe also a cerdhoard template—and fine-turn each ball to the best possible shape anc finish. [Ey ee enmeesting one tne and use a fine-bladed saw to cut the balls apart ‘Take the balls one at a time, set them in the jaws of the chuck, and rub down the part-off points. Finally, one piece at a time, hold the balls inthe chuck—this time with the midline in the horizontal plane—and use the tailstock drill chuck and the '/e'-diameter bit to sink the pivot holes (Fig 12-13),‘TURNING THE LARGE BALLS ‘The main difference between the small and large halls isnot so much in the shapa—although the small balls can be slightly flat faced et the holes—but more in the turning technique. For example, the small balls are turned off as a string, while the large balls are turned off one ata time otetey-otsigtele}~alles eat decribed inthe prov secion—ewar the waste at ithr sido ihe With the diameter of the midline defined by the ‘width of the cylinder and the diameter across the poles defined by the bands of waste, all you have todo now is turn off the shoulders with the skew chisal, as already described. Having more or less turned off the hall nearest the tallstock—tirst one half and then the ather—and checked it with the cardboard template (Fig 11-15), wind back the tailstock so you can approach the ball end on, and carefully bring the ball to the best possible jinish (Ag 1-8). Finally, part off the ball with the toe of the skew chisel, wind back the talistock so me workpiece is once again supported at both ends, and rerun the sequence for the other four balls. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING Whan you've completed all the component parts that ‘make up the project—the base frame, two foot bars, nine small balls five large balls, little crank bar and pivot rods—spread them out on the surface, and check them. over for potential problams (Fig 11-17), Pay particular attention to the movement of the small balls on the pivat rods, The three central balls need co be a ght ft on the drive rod with the rod being a loose fit through the frame holes, while the autelde halle need to be an easy to-turn, oose fit on the rods with the rods being a tight fit in the frame holes, Start by gluing and pegging the foot bars in place on the underside of the frame, FIGURE 11-14 ‘Use theskew chisel ta shave the weod to a goad, smaoth finish. FIGURE 11-15 Usea cardhoard template to check the FIGURE 11-16 ‘With the workpiece stil held firmly and secursly tn the Jaws of ‘the chuck, back the tailetock out of the way and tum down the ‘ond face of the ball tom good profile and finish. ‘When the glue is dry, take the finest-crade sandpaper and spend time rubbing down the whole frame to a smooth finish (Fig 1-18). Pay particular attention to the carved dips on the top and the inside edges of the nine holes. Make sure the pivat holes are clean and tree from jags PYRAMID ROLLEA-BALL MACHINE 209FIGURE11.17 ‘Set outa macompanent parts, and cack them aver far shape ‘ond alzo and pasotbie foutts, Having sanded the paver rods en the halls are an exey-to-tum fit fit thentne halls in-place. The hest Procedure 1g to slide the rods through both the frame and ‘the balls, fing sndeasing as you gu. Continue itting ‘and madifying untll everything comes together. Far example, youmight fit ons ball,then decide that another Ap a hatter fit, then spend tims sanding a hall ea 1 tame freely (Fig 1-19), snd sa on. When you have fitted allnine balls and thetr pivat rads m place and glued the ttle crank handle on the central rod, give the whole works arubdown with task oil sand rurmish to 5 dull, sheen. finish, Set the five large halls in place, turn the handle, and. watch the movement af the alls as they revalve, ‘MO PYRAMID ROLLER-BALL MACHINE, FIGURE 1.18, laving payged and giaed tne foot bars mpasttion and watted tar ‘Wha glnote dry, clean up the surface with a fold af sandpaper. PROBLEM SOLVING * Ieygu0e the tae ofthis project but cant getuse ofa Etna, ou SoUId se sonp-hought nals so setOs for matcog only thetene, + ayguiteciaa to use aterent wood sr the nals mace sora tse ageoa wolgnt, troogacrass te prot apa eutetie ‘or turing, + Beceehiiactto get the gue on ares that need tarevaive ‘teny. 4 gouty is togenetmusty ol everyting #xcect ‘ma res tat rat ne guuea memes you start puting tne partstogether + afyou tam? use aerooket i, you could use a scoop JOUR. FIGURE 11-19 Bxporknent with the ‘Plucemantof the ballson ‘tae plvot reds unt you ‘aciiova the best Mt. Ir need ‘bo, nso a fold of sandpaper ‘twnaso ment, Copyrighted MaterialPROJECT 12 Rack and Pinion Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND This is one of our favorite projects, Rack and pinion is a dovioo for converting rotary movement into linoar motion and vies versa in which a gear whoal—the pinion—engag- eswitha{flat-tocthed har—therack. When the crankhandle is slowly turned—clockwise or countarclockwis2—the cog wheel teeth engage, with the effect that the rack slides along its frame. PROJECT OVERVIEW Before you put tool ta wood, have a youd, long look at the project picture (right), photographs, working drawing (Fig 12-1A) and templates (Fig 12-18), and note thatthe machine is made up of three primary parts:a small gear wheel large gear wheel, and long, toothed bar, Consider how the two ‘wheels are pivoted on dowel shafts, with the smaller wheel being operated by a crank and handle, See that while the rack needs to be a nice, smooth-sliding fit between the bed rails, italso has to be held captive by means of a dowel rad ‘that runs through the front rail, through a slot in the rack, and on through into the back ral. RACK AND PION MACHINE aa‘Copyrighted Material RACK AND PINION MACHINE ‘MB RACK AND PINION MACHINE. Copyrighted MaterialRACK AND PINION MACHINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 12-18 ‘At agrid scale of two squares ‘to 1, the machine stands Tye magn ands wide, [Note that inside view Oe docign primarily wave serie stack. AND PINION MACHINE 188RACK AND PINION MACHINE TEMPLATES a FIGURE 12-18 ‘Thoscale is four grid squares tox althony ‘you do your best to copy the profile and spacts tooth, we have oh design oo there a sleaty of leeway. A Rack, B weets (2), © crank handle, D crank,CUTTING LIST A Rack 8/1/28 beoch B_ Wheels(2) ax as Bcherry Crank handle Ted 6 walnut D_ Crank nla B ‘Back plate "A 9= Then ‘Base Tana S buch Rails +2» Oboech: ‘Washer aol ods dowel CHOOSING YOUR wooD Inthis project the character of the wood is important, ‘The wood tor the gear wheels needs to he strong across the short grain, and must he smooth grained, tree trom Knots, attractive in color, and easy to work, We chose to ‘uso North American cherry forthe wheels; European beach for the base, rails and back plate; North American ‘walnut for the crank handle: and various affcuts for all ‘tha little bits and pieces. MAKING THE BACK PLATE ‘Take the 7" length of /:" beech at 8 wide, With the grain running from top to bottom, use the pencil, ruler, square and compasses to mark the lines that make up the design. We use an adjustable square and a washar for the radius curves. 1's important the baseline is square and the pivot points are correctly placed, 50 double-check everything (Figs 12-1 and B and 12-2}, Having shaded in all the areas that need to be cut away and pierced, use the drill anda suitably sized drill bit to drill pilot holes through all the enclosed, “windows” of the design. Now cut out the profile, making sure the blade is, running slightly w the waste side of the arava line. pre aa RRR SE SRR arin “Paste bade though te piot hoe, “Rt and retesios tena Now sand all inside radius curves to a good, smooth finish (Fig 12-3), FIGURE 12-2 ‘When you prepare to use the adjustable square to mark the ‘design on the wood, make sure you start off with a square ‘hasoline and a reasonably smooth surface. FIGURE 12-3 ‘Wensea small rotary carver~a small drum sander—tofinish ‘thedifficult-to-reach, inside-radius curves, TNIONMACHING 315FIGURE 12-4 ‘Forstuer drill bits are perfect for sinking smooth-sided,flat- bottomed blind holes. Use the °/«’ -dlameter Forstner bit to drill te ave decorative blind holes that make up the design. Drill holee thet are about '/.’ deop (Fig 12-4), gu Now smooth the back plate with sandpaper. MAKING THE PINION GEAR WHEELS AND RACK ‘Trace the gear wheel and rack patterns onto your ‘wood. It's important the teeth are accurately placed, so spend tine getting 1tright, Ey eet on be scot caw Check fit the wheels and movement (Fig 12-5). We used a couple of pencil stubs—and check out the movement by turning the wheels by hand. Make sure the three primary components, the two wheels and the rack, are a good, smooth-moving fit. MAKING THE CRANK ‘Now draw out the washer spacer and crank. The washer needs to be long from center to center, 1" in diameter at the big end, and ‘/-' indiameter at the small end (Figs 12-1A and B), in diameter. The crank is2” ‘with all me lines of the design cleanly established, min ve ameter holes through the spacer washer and through the big ond of the erank and a :/."-diametor hole through the small end of the crank, og Use the scroll saw to cut cut the two components. ‘When you have completed tha two cutouts, both at 2/«" thick, run them though the hand saw—or you might use the scroll saw—so you havetwo spacers and ‘two cranks, all at about */-" thick (Fig 12-8), ‘TURNING THE CRANE HANDLE AND MUSHROOM PIVOT ‘Take the 6" length of 1’ » 1" square section walnut, establish the end center points by drawing crossed diagonals, and mount it securely on the lathe, Having checked through your safety checklist, tum down tha wood to the largest possible diameter when you have completed a cylinder at about °/3” ddlameter, take ihe dividers and mark the cylinder with all the step-offs that make up the design Working from the tailstock end, allow ahout'/.” for tailstock wast, 1/0" for the handle, 1/." tor the pivot stalk, \/." for the little mushroom head, and:/' for part-oif waste (Fig 12-7). Sink the step-offs to the required depth, and then turn the rounded shape of the handle, the '/e"-diameter stalk and the mushroom head. FIGURE 12-5 Spond time making sura the three primary components, the two ‘wheels and the rack, are agood, sxiooth-moving fit, aap RACK ANDP aN MACHINE FIGURE 12-6 ‘The use of /."thick wood allows for two /." spacers and two.” ‘eranks—one pair for this machine and one for another project.FIGURE 12-7 ‘Working from the tatistock end, use the dividers ts caremaly ‘mark the cylinder with allthe step-ofts that makeup the design. Allow "for tallatock waste, !/." forthe handle,1!/." forthe vot etalk, */." for thamushroom-chaped har part-off waste, snd 10 foe FIGURE 12: ‘When you have sanded to a good finish, use the toe of the skew chisel to part off the workpiece from the lathe. Sand the turning and then part off so you have two components: the handle and pivot (Fig 12-8). ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING ‘Mount the backing plate on the base, position the ara gure all is correct, drill and dowel (Fig 12-9), With the rack a nice, smooth-running fit, set the two pinlon wheels in place with a couple of temporary dowels, and test out the movement. Turn the small wheel, and mark any teeth that look to be a problem, When you are happy with the movement, cut the dowel rods to size, aril peg holes, drill out mie handle for the mushroom pivot, and sand all the parts (Fig 12.10}. Use round toothpicke for fixing everything in place. With the back plate square to the base (Fig 12-11), anc the rack free to move in its track, glue, fit, peg, and clamp the project together and let it arv. Finally, give the whole works a swift wipe with the teak olf; fitand peg the wheels, dowels and handle; and the machine is tinishea, FIGURE 12 various fixing holes. (top) Plan view showing position of holes. (ight) Cross section. FIGURE 12-10 ‘Check the component partsfor potential problems, =n FIGURE 12-11 ‘Bo suroto check that the hack slate is square te the base. PROBLEM SOLVING + Ifyou vant to make the project but can'tget use of a athe, settle for making the rank handle from a shop-bought dowel. RACK ANDPINION MACHINE 337‘Copyrighted Material PROJECT 13 Pendulum Recoil Escapement Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘The tick, tick, ticking that measures time passing 1s con- ‘plied in the traditional clock by a mechanism known aa ‘the pendulum zeco!] escapament, This wonderfully simple device is made up of a toothed wheel on a pivot, a pivoted anchorlike form we term an anchor escapement, a swing- ing weight on an arm we call a pendulum and a fallmg ‘weight that acts in much the sameway as a spring. ‘The working movement 1s heaunfully simple: es the toathed wheel is sot inta motion by the falling weight, ar ‘spring!’ end the pendulum is set swinging, the clawisra ypallet fingers at the end ofthe anchar and the teeth of tha Whee] all complement each other in keaping tha machin im motion, One aida of the swinging anchor gives a litle ‘Bush or recoil on the wheel teeth thatin tum gives elttla push on the other side of the anchor that in tun gives nother push on the newt whael tooth, and so an. In this ‘manner, tha movemant 16 paced hy the acon] energy as 1t ounces backward end forward between the wa compa- nents, Ofcourss there is a great deal more to it than. thet, and.fyou are mterested go to a ook on horology and refer ‘te “pendulum recoil eeoapemant” PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘The size of the pendulum, the length of the pendulom arm, and the eize of the “spring” weight m relation ta the swing of the pendulum are all critical factors that relate ta tha ‘mucnase of the movement. Get one ar other of the factors wrong—too much or too litle weight,net enough swing ar wihetever—and everything grinds to a halt That sald, if you have doubts sbout your skills, procsed anyway and view ‘this whole Fropet as a protetypa—an adventure that will ead on to other things, Me PENDULUM RECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE Copyrighted MaterialPENDULUM RECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE PENDULUM RECAIL, EMENT MACHINE ate‘Copyrighted Material PENDULUM RECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE ABD PENDULUM RECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material PENDULUM RECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE ‘PENDULUM RECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE m1 Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material PENDULUM RECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 15-1 ‘Ma gildscale nt twosquarms tb", mamacnine stands ‘abowt AG" high ane 6° wre ‘acrossthe span af the Dasa sian. {@R_ PENDULUMRECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE ‘Copyrighted MaterialPENDULUM RECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 13-2 ‘Thoscale is two grid squares to (A,B, 0). The scale is foar ana "(DhE). lank plate. Fancy plate ‘Toothed wheel ‘Anchor aes‘Copyrighted Material CHOOSING YOUR WOOD Boing mindfol that the woade vanously need ta be strong soross the grain, close gremnedtres from mats attractively polored, and relatively easy to work, we decided ta go for Eumpesn tulip for the pendulum, English phum for the frame, mahagany forthe toothed wheel, walnut for the an- chor, and pine for the dowels, That seid, you could use just about any wond type that takes yaurfancy, a lang as you consider st structurally end technically fitting. For exem- pla, f you are try ing to cut costs, youcoulduse soft pine far ‘the pendulum weight, arm, frama, and just about every- ‘thing exceptthe tathed wheel and anchor that noed ta ba made from a close-grained, densa wand, (Note that we used a metal weight (a brass film contain- er) for the “spring” for the simple reason that we couldnt find alump of wood that was heavy enough, MAKING THE FRETTED PLATES AND BASE Have a good, long look at the working drawing (Fig 19-1) andi the templates (Fig 19-2), and study ‘the twa views, Note that we hava cut through the views — ‘through the height—so they fit on the page. Study allthe Allustrations—the photographs and pen drawings—until youre completely clear in your own mind ap ta how the ‘various parts af the project come together. When you have an understanding af what goes whore and how, draw the dasign imagery ta size, ‘make tracings, and transfer the traced lmes through to your chosen wood. Wate that in the contest of the two Adantical frames—the two tall support frames— you neat only draw the frame on one piece of wood, Bq PENDULUMRECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE Bo ‘Take the twa lengths of wood that make up the twa primary frames and pin them together aa the drawn smagery 18 on the twp Layer. On the drill press, use the */" bit tn hore out the ight focing-red holas that necur at the tap of the frome Fun the holes threugh beth layers of waod, While ‘the drill is in use, run /r"-llameter pilat holes through all ‘windows of waste and */s"-diameter holes through the ‘bottom of tha frame—for flxing the base, Push dowels through at least two of the holes to ensurethe holes and the cutouts are identically ‘placed and use the serail saw to cutout the protilon, ‘To cut out the enclosed windows the ordar af work 15 (Fig 13-3) +“ Thutch the goroll aw blade + Page the blatis through ths pilot hola. “ Relit and retansion tha blada, + Dut out tha window, + Reverse the procedure and remove the wond Having fretted through both layers of wood and remaved the holding dowels, sand all the sewn edges—all the inside and outside radius curves and straight eidas—to a smooth finish, ‘Ta cut the cradle plates that eupport the secapemant, rerun the same procedures FICURE13-3 ‘Tuptares awindow, sanitcn the Mada, pase tarwagR a pllet ‘bolo, roniteh and retnsion and start tuo eat. Bovorse {Re ‘precadara when the windaw has heoa fretted oat Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material PIGURE13-4 ‘Have a trial fiting of the two main frames to tha hase slab, Cur the basa cla ta pio, and have tial fitung of the two main pletes (Fig 15-4). Pencil labelthe underside of the base elab and the inside faces af the frames so you can fiteverything back m the seme position. MAKING THE ESCAPEMENT Start by lookmy atthe working drawing (Fig 13-1) and templates (Fig 13-2) end noting that the eecepement machanism is made-up of three primary ‘components—the taothed wheel, the anchor with the finger pallets and the cord drum—all supported on pivots andsade, ‘Now take your chngen piece of prepared */4"-thiclt wood and use the pencil, zuler and compasses to mark tha Imes thet make up the design (Fig 15-2). Draw (the twa circlee— the large outer circle and the inner ‘circla—run 22 equal step-offs around the outer ctrcumference, and then draw radius lmes end diagonal, Ines across the resultant intersections, all aa illustrated. “Although 1's exsy enough to work out with a caloulator ‘that each of tha 22 step-offs epringe from.a part-cirale sngla of 16,9696", meaning 350 dived by 22 equals 18.9836, tts not so easy ta divide upthe circle as drawn, on the wood, We found that the bast procedure is ta eet the ividers te aguecotimate cise and then to foc the aime af ‘the step-offe by tial and error. ‘With ell the lines carefully drawn, move to the hand saw and sat to work cutting the teeth. Work at a slaw [paog all the while making gure the tooth points accur an ‘the cuter circumference (Fig 19-5). Be mindful that perhaps more than anything else, the success af the movement depentis on the Jangth and spacingaf thetesth, ‘Ta make the drum and spacers, swiftly tum the wood down t a l'e’-tiameter cylinder, and then uss ‘the dividers ta step aff the guidelines that make wp the drum. From right to lat slong the length of the wood, allow a.emall amount for tallstock waste, about "for the first rim, about I’ forthe central ares, and another ‘/’ for the nother mm (Fig 15-6). In fast, the ppacing ten toa amportant, as long 4s the total langth of the drums a8 ‘ear as possible to 1'/\" Sand the drum ta a good finish, send than part off fram the Lathe, FIGURE 13-5 (Gat ont the toothed wheol with aseriasof straight cuts. Maio: ‘suro @epetnts aloccar en tae etreamtarenes Iino. FIGURE13-6 ‘Deo taedtietdors to eneok te vartens step-atts that mane up Medes, PENDULUMFECOIL ESCAPEMENTMACHINE 185 Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material Follow basically the same turning procedures to cut the three spacer dams that hold and distance ‘the anshor on tts pivot. Turn dawn tha wood ta a ctrcumference of bout 2/2 and min it through with the 4a" bit (Pig 18-7). Cut the twa primery spacers tn length, ‘and then cut an extra length eo you ran ues addtional sshoas as fine shim adjustments, When you prepare to make the anchor frst have a look at the worlang drawing (Fig 12-1) and the ‘templates (Fig 15-2), and see that the characteristic seymumetrical profile needs ta he cut with a fair degree of precision, Draw the imagery tm shape and sizg make a tracing, and press transfer the traged lines through to your ‘chosen piece of wood Have tha profile arranged so thare isa mmimum of fragile chort grain at the pallat pote, Fic ‘the posttinn of the pivot point, and run it through vith the 144°-digmeter dr bat PIGUBE13-7 [PR (uot an tho tatistnen dri eee, and um tno pivat bole ‘trough me longt at ts tarning. FICURE13-8 ‘Won you propare tafiret out tha anchor escapement en tas scroll ‘saw, mao Soro the Hina of eu is true tothe dawn Hine, oat ‘heline ofcat is ractloualto the waste sido the drawn Hine, BG PENDULUMRECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE FIGURE 13-0 “At ovary stop along the way, stop and males sure tbe parts come ‘tegetucr fora geoa nt, ‘When you are happy with the tmage, use the scroll a0 to carefully cutout the profile (Fig 13-8), When youhave completed ell tha component parts that makeup the escapement—the drum, toothed ‘wheel, anchor and epacers—slide tha anchor end spacers sn place on them pivot rod, fx the wheel to the drum wath a couple of dowel pins, slide the drum rod in place, and have jptrial frting—yust so you cam see how alltha components ‘ome tagethar (Fig 15-0). MAKING THE PENDULUM Have a look at the working drawing (Fig 13-1), and see that the pendulum 1e mada up of twa compansnt parts:the disk ar whorl, and the long arm. Note how the farm is shaped oo that most af the weight ecoure at the disk end. Jake your chosen Jength of I" « 1 square section wood and tum tt dawn to a smooth,round section. Wow take the skew chisel and start turing the Spindle tw shape With the spigot and large-ciametar end at the headetack end of tha lathe, dist tarn the heavy, round-nosed shape and establish the diameter of the spigot, and then make repeated ‘downhill’ nasaes to turn ‘the lang, slander taper to shape (Fig 13-10) ‘Ta turn the disk weight, take your chosen S75" squaraslab of wood and then fox the canter [point by drawing crossed diagonals, corthe out a 43/2"- lameter circle, and cut aut theblank on tha scroll sew. Copyrighted MaterialFIGURE 13-10 ‘Remove the waste with a long, slow, shaving cut. FIGURE 13-12 ‘The pendulum woight and the arm, Fitthetwe together so the uns aoreas the width ofthediak, FIGURE 13-12 Set out all the componant parts, and chack them over for possible problems, Having mounted the wood on the screw chuck and fitted the whole works on the lathe, take the gouge and swiftly tun down the wood to a smoath pill, or disk. ‘Make sure the wood is still secure, and then tum the edges toa nicely rounded protileand rub down the face and edge to a smooth finish, ity wats no to ba otto pondtam ek, wotkece onthe stew chico theca aes presente. and flow te turning procaduresas ready pendulum moreadventreus pole—enialy sumped- ont ion witha dle tener (21) Finally, when you have what you consider is a strong shape—wita all faces and edges neing well finished—remove the workpiece from the lathe, and drill a J." diameter spigot hole at top-edge cantor. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING ‘When you have completed all the component parts that make up the project (Fig 19-12), have atrial run and then do the gluing when all the problems have been sorted out Start by pegging the frames at either side of the ase slab, as in our original yout stage (Fig 15-4). Drill and peg the long spacer cylinder to the front face of the anchor, and test it out for fit and function, (Fig 13-13), FIGURE 13-13, ‘Make sure the toothed wheel and the anchor escapemont are ‘carefully, correctly aligned. Check against the working drawing. NT MACHINE 197‘Copyrighted Material spaner cylinders are used to ensure that the anchor escapement sits over the pallet wheel. You might find you. ‘eed extra spacers cr you nacd ta set the spaners:ina differant sequence on thepivatrod (Fig 13-17) FIGURE13-14 ‘Gather al the parts tat MAK up the ocapEReNt and make sure ‘toy it aed come tegotnar nienty. FICURE1315 ‘Sot ana support me toothed whasl and tnesarima betwean te ‘cradle plates, and recheck that tha pivot is SH freeruaning. go ‘Jake tha twa socondary"cradie" plates and the toothed, whael-snd-drum uns, fit the pivot, dri!) therod holes, and generally make sure tts all going to ome together (Fig 13-14), Set the wheel and drum in place—on the pivatrod and tn the cradle—and make sure the anchor pocapemiant is emonth and easy on ita pives (Fig 19-15) Having completed the whole escapemant unit, take your inifs and afoldafiine-gratesandpaperand © PICUBE 13-17 enorally ft and fiddla until all tha‘hearmgsurfaras mova Set thocradlo wae support reds, and aajst tho atstanca vith the minimum of iristion (Fig 18-16) Note that the ‘between the fraut slab ud the front a! the toothed wheel. {88 PENDULUMRECOIL ESCAPEMENT MACHINE Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material PIGUBE13-12 ‘Mako sro tne Trames ara square and.not ‘hetsted or sired. FIGURE 12:19 o Now make sure the recotl, or movemant, 38 running, emaothly (Fig 19-18), o ‘Tha movement of the ancher eacapament mm relation to the teeth on the wheels crucal, ao spend time ‘making fine adjustments (Fig 13-18), ‘You might ind st nacescary ta usatha frme-pomnt rounded toothpicks as temporary wedge pins, Sat ‘the frames the required distance apart and push the ‘mathpicks in to hold (Fig 13-20). Once you have all the component parte well placed now that the whole machine is up end running, tale adins-tnothed saw—or youmught use knife—and mark (the length of the fbding rads (Fig 19-21), Allow sbout 4's" extra at each end of the rods so they stand slightly proud. cf tha frame. Have a trial fitting of the pendulum, and cut the arm to length. The pendulum neads to clesr the base by about '7¢ Now 1s the time to paarch aut a suitable weight anda Iengthoffine, strong oord, When you have had a trial run fitting, cut the variaus rods and pivots to length, and generally sorted everything out, then disassemble the machine and rebufld, ‘using a small amount of PVA adhesive. Finally, bumteh, ‘he machina with teak al, fit the cord and the drum, weight, andit'stime totry your elack. ‘Use tho round beotaptetes as temporary ‘notang wees. FIGURE 13-21 ‘Mari tha rod langtas with sow cuts. PROBLEM SOLVING “Ifyou decide to use s alterent wood, cake sure ts stog acrassthe grain tn the context of this projec, its most ‘MMportaRt you Told wonds that are ee to SRI. ‘Me mechanism can omy ran for @ short time, as ta weg ‘has aime fa drop. THat sate, you could macy tHe design and bare og fel by having the machine hanging on ‘thawall—Uike a pendrumm clock, PENDULUMRECOT ESCAPEMENT MACHINE 180 Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material PROJECT 14 Flywheel and Governor Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘When I was a kid, I loved fairgrounds and circuses. I was absolutely fascinated by the whirling, twirling halls ther ‘ould be seen on the traction engines and stationary gen- ceratore that were ueed to power the various rules Tha gov- emor contraptions looked for all the world like little spin- ming men haldmg heavy waights out at arm's length ‘The mecmaricing thing was that as tha epeed of the en- ging picked up, the lite man turned faster and faster, with arms higher and higher, until the weights—usually bright, shiny halls—were betng spun around at shoulder height Indictimary terms, “a governor is en automatie davies Xesigned to requilste the speed of a steam or Gasolms en- (ging or other prime mover,” As the speed picks up and tha spindle spins faster, the centrifugal force of the fiywaighss Dbeing thrownup and out causes the engine ta slaw down ta sts anaigmad peed ‘Vath our little machine, when the cord 1s ewifty pulled anti released, the flywhes! 1s set m motion, with the affect ‘thet the twa weights fy up and gut and cause the flywheel 10 elow down (igi) PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘This project requires turning on the lathe (Fig 14-1), You ‘will see that apart from the two epindle-sheft collars, tha ‘two linkup arms and tha ehop-bought dowels, just about everything else ts turned on the lathe FLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE Copyrighted MaterialFLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE FLYWHEEL AM OVERNOA MACHINE aga‘Copyrighted Material FLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE 48% FLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material FLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE FLYWHEEL ANDGOVERNOR MACHINE 139 Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material FLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE WORKING DRAWING 134 FLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE ‘Copyrighted MaterialFLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE TEMPLATES ] 7 FIGURE 14-2 + +7 ‘Phoscale is two grid squares a tor es 111] A isks 2). {| 1 ali 2 nywaee in x BE Female ctl J | | | 4 unkuy ams [+4 | | ti a F Weignts B & Putcardsing 135‘Copyrighted Material CHOOSING YOUR WOOD As always, when you are choosing wood for turning on the nthe, you need to ask yourself at least three questions. Is ‘the wood eaby to turn? Is the waod strong enough for its task?Is the wood suitable m terme of weight, colar antl text- ‘ture? Keep these things in mind when choosing wood far ‘the different parte of this propa. MAKING THE TOP AND BASE DISKS ‘Notice whan Iooldng at tha working drawing (Fig, 1421) end the templates (Fig 14-2) that tha two ‘tumed diske have mare or Jess the same crase-section ‘Profile, They ars sbout 9" m diameter, with a raised rim andeanter atabour /s" thick and a lawered moat hetwaen ‘therim and center at ahout Ye" deep. Dan'tstraggle too hard to turn two identical disks hecauss afterall, the (greater part of the base disk 1s hudden from view, Begin by taking one of the slabs and fix the canter point by drawing croseed diagonals This dene, scribe out a Q'-diemeter cicla, end cutout the blank an ‘the scroll saw. Bo Screw focthe O° blank on the large faceplate oo tha screws are ner the center, mount thewhole works ‘on the outboard end of the lathe, and tum down the wracd ‘tm a emooth faced, raund-edged disk, When you have tumed a.good disk, take the dividers and mark the thres guidelina circles that makeup ‘the design, Working tram the canter, you need a 1/3" radius for the central plateau area, 2 9'/:" rains wo set the width of the moat, and a 4” radius to fix the posttion of the ine on which the thrae pillars ara‘ta be placed. 196 FLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE FIGURE Lower tamoat area. te rim and tho canter stand ta rate! By apeut'/, FIGURE 14-4 Sotthedividers te the radia of thagaidatine circle, and step off ‘Sz equblistant petats. Uss.overy other paint for tie pale Boles. Having checked that the lines arg correctly placed, lower the moat area by about “/", Theralsed areas ‘should run in a emnath curva inta tha moat (Fig 14-3). ‘Mark tha center point of tha dick. ‘With the first disk marie end off the lathe, rerun the whole procedure ta make asecond disk. ‘With the twa disks being more or less the same size, um a /"-diemeter hole through the center point, end fttthe disks together with a nail or pin so they are placed one on top sfanother—like a turntable, Make sure (the top disk t9 uppermost, Having first looked at the working drawing (Fig 14-1) ond templotes (Fig 14-2) end seen how the three [Posts are set equidistant around the circle, set your duviders go the radiusmatches the distance fromthe center point through to the outer-cirele guideling, and Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material ‘then pave off around the guideline to make ex equal, stepolfe, Mark avery othar step-off sa the circle ta divided nto three equal paka-wedge slices (Fig 14-4}. This done, use the pencil ruler and compasses to mark all the other Ines that mske upthe design With ell the guidelines in placa, remove the mp disk and run the three postholes through with the '/e'-diemeter bit. Whils you are st it,run a singls pilot hole ‘Gwough each of the enclosed windows of waste that make up the design. Set the top isk back on the base diel and usa the three postholas you've already drilled toran holes ‘through the bottom disk. The procedure ie: drill one of the hholes on through the bottom disk, fx the posttion of the hhole by pegging st with a dowel, and then complete the ther two hala (Fig 1-5). Having drilled the three postholes through both cheke, put the base disk to one side, remove the pin, ‘and shade in on the top disk the windows of waste thet need tobe cut away [Fig 14-6) ‘Move ta the scroll saw and fretout the windows of waste Ta cut out the enclased windows, the ordar af works: + Tnhutch the scroll saw bled. + Page tha blade through the pilot hole. + Refit and reteneion theblada * Cut qut tha window, + When you haveiretted aut one window, reverse the pros dureta remave the blade, and mave onto the next window tobe cutout, After cutting aut ell three windows, go over the iece lightly with the sandpaper Naw drill twa diameter, /s"-deap holac—one down inta the cantar of the hase slab and the ather up mito the center of the underside of the tap ela ‘TURNING THE FLYWHEEL After looking at the working drawing cross sentions (ig 14-1 hottam right), study the overall shape and [problla cf the flywhnel. Wate that although the form is very much ka abow]—tt has arim atthe circumference, a slight fat or step-up on the hase, and a lowered or sunken, prea also has the addition of a raisad diag or hub, at snaide canter. So SOR FIGURE 19-5 FIGURE 14-8 ‘Tapacowel trough ite Mest —-Markte shapeot tne tare ‘hole to bold everything in ‘spokes and the shape ot ides, and tan deilient me =the windows, and stadia ‘otnor two notes. ‘te aroas. mat oeato bo cat away. ‘When youhave familiarized yourssif with the form, tale the 2*-thick slab of wood and follow ‘the marking and cutting procedures as already eseribed Atm to finish up witha disk blank at about 6'/"m diameter, In sequential order, mount the blank.om the screw ‘Shuck and then mount the ehuck on the lathe eo the ‘whole works 1s safe and secure Pasttion the taol Test over the hed of the latha, and fat to work turning down the blank to size. Tha best, [procedures for setting out a turning ofthis character are te firstron the parting tnol straight into tha waod15, establish the diameter, than true up the fare af the disk ‘with the large gauge, and then use the dividers to mark, the guidelines. And, of course, along the way, you are ewiftly tuming off the Jarge arses of waste, so you have t make repsated checks with the calipers, For exemple, you need to check the overall diameter, the dapth from front to back, and eon, Having tumed down the blank to a diameterof sbout 5", marked the 2"-thick edge with a center line, and ‘used the dividers to mark the width of the rim and the diameter of the central hub, use the parting taal ta raugh ut the Inside-bowl area Baing-sure your tools ererezor Sharp, run the parting tool straight into the wood to jectabligh the dapthand width of the lowered area, and, ‘than eystemetically claer the waste with rapested. side-by-side thrusts (Fig 14-7), FLYWHEEL AND COVERNOR MACHINE 137 Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material PIGUREL7 ‘se the parting toel ta clear the balk af tho waste. go With thetbulk of tha waste out af the way, use tha ‘tople of your chatos te bring the blank tn shape. Tused the skew chisel and the round-nosed gouge for shaping the curved shoulders end the parting tool for ‘dying up the hack of the tarning. ‘Use the wire to burn in the decorative score line MGM) round the trelice rim (Fig 14-8) and the sandpaper tn bring the turning tn a supersmooth finish. If your lathe hag echenge of diraction option, t's best torub down in. Jhoth diractions af pin. Finally, run a 7 of the mb, ‘Mlameter hole through the center TURNING THE FLYWEIGHTS AND PULLCORD RING ‘The flyweights’ shape ts not too important, as lang apthey srenct so large they clunk mto the support posts when they ere set in motion, Yau cen use different ‘wood typaefor thage parts, ‘Mount the 2 « 2” square section wood! hetween the chuck and the tailstock, and ewtfily tum tt down to ‘the largest possible diameter. Take tha parting tool and ‘the calipers and reduce 9" length at the tailstack end to diameter of between */4" and/+" ee the dividers ta set cut the step-affs that make up thedesign Working from the taflstock end, allow about '7" for the tailstack waste, */«’ aach far the two Ihalvas of the first walght,7/#" for thebotween-weight waste, two more */2’ step-offs for the second weight, and another '/" for waste, ‘Wee the parting tol tm sink the waste, Run the too straight in so youre left with a central core at about 9B FLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE FIGURES ‘Mold the cutting wire sa you can seifty isto of the stick ‘Randles tno wire sags, FIGURE 1-0 ‘Uso tas too.at tae skew cits te cut in the meatlipes, FIGURE 14-10 ‘Tue Dest way of achtaving.a wall-maate.ed patrot formes te werkt (mamas a mirrartmayepeotue. dlameter. Use the toe of the skew chisel to cut in the decorative miduines (Fig 14-9), Now usethe skew chisel to turn affthe rund Shoulders at tha top of the weights. Being mindful ‘that the twa turnings nead to be identical, 1" best tatu ff the shapes Inte hy ile ep they ere lnoking at each other and sremisrar imaged. If you take a slice aff the Ieft-hand shoulder and then a little off the right-hand shoulder and sa on, baclavard and forward, yau are mare Mkely tn achieve two well-metched turnings. Copyrighted MaterialHaving tumed off the round shoulders on both turnings (Fig 14-10), use the fine-grade sandpaper to rub down the whole workpiece to a smooth finish, and then part off with a tine-toothed saw. One piece at atime, mount the little turnings in the four-Jaw chuck so they ate ortpped by thelr stalks of waste, and use the skaw chisel ta turn dawn the shouldered ond to aemooth, rounded finish (Fig 14-12). While the workpiece s still held in the four-jaw chuck, set the drill chuck in the tailstock end of the lathe, and drill the turning through with @/.’-diameter bit (Ag 14-12). Lastly, take the turning off the lathe, and rub down the flat end toa smooth finish. Rerun this procedure for the other turning, Having tumed otf the two flyweignts, remount me other end of the turned cylinder in the lathe—or you might be using another longth of wood-—and sot to work. ‘turning off the pall cord ring. With the wood tumed down to a diameter of 17", set the dividers to '/:” and markall the step-offs that make up the design. The hest procedure is to set out four °/e' step- offs, one at each end for waste and two at the center for the ring. ‘whan the guide cuts are in placa, take tne skew chisel and swiftly bring the wood te shape Simply lower the waste at each ond, cut in the decorative midline, and then round aver the shoulders ‘Whan you are satistied with the basic ring shape, fit the drill chuckin the tailstack mandrel, set a Y-diameter Forstner bit in the drill, and ran a hole all the way through the tuning (Fig 14-19), He careful not to force ‘tha pace or damage the bit or the turning. The easiest method is to advance the bit a litte, then withdraw, then wind back some more, until you reach the desired depen. ‘Warning:if you try to force the bit through in one thrust, you are likely to bum the drill or eplit tha wood. This deno, ack the drill bit out of the way, sand down the turning to a smooth finish and then part off. Drill a/."-diametar hale ‘through the ring—in one side and out the other. MAKING THE COLLAR RINGS AND LINKUP ARMS ‘There are twocollars on the central shaft: fixed temale collar at the top and a shding malecollar at FIGURE 14-11 ‘Secure the weight in the jaws of the chuck, and alternately ‘use the skew chisel and sandpaper to achieve asmeoth, round topped finish. FIGURE 14-12, ‘Run the hole through with the /."-diamater dill bit- Having the ‘Mit hold in the tallstock drill chuck ensures that the hole is pertectiy placed. FIGURE 14-13 1 you cut the neck of waste ata emaller cove diameter than the inmoter of the threugh-hole, the ring showld come away clean 25 ‘the bottom. The female collar is designed in sucha way that its mortiselike flanges receive the end of a dowel, ‘while the male collaris designed so its tenon fits into the female flangeat the end of the linkup arm. Note that the ‘two collars are mare or less identical, PLYWEEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINE 190FIGURE 14-14 ‘Use the pencil, ruler and dividers/compasses to mark the shape ‘of the twa collare. Nate the direction of the grain. no FIGURE 14-15 When you have aclear understanding of haw the ‘Use theratery tool to bring all the corners and edges tna nicely ‘two collars function, usethe pencil, ruler and rounded finish, ‘compasses to mark them on your chosen piece of hard, close-grained, knot-tree °/.’-thick wood (Fig 14-14). Nate ‘that the designs need to be marked sa the flanges are aligned with the run of the grain. Stillusing the pencil. rular and compasses, and still working on the */:*-thick wood, mark the shape of ‘tha two identical linkup arms. ‘Move to the drill press and ran the collars through with a//"diameter holeat the center. ‘Move to the scrou saw, and tet out the protites, as you are cutting out the flanges, make sure they are @ 0980 fit one within another. FIGURE 14-16 ‘Sento it that the depth af the joint ie adaqu ‘Whan you have completed the four cutouts, sand the various flanges and extensions so they are nicely smoothed and rounded (Fig 14-15), ‘When you have completed the four cutouts, go hack to the drill press and drill‘/:"-diameter holes at all the pivot points (Fig 14-16). Lastly, drill a single tixing hole through the top collar so It runs across the shaft hole, and then run as many weight-reducing holes through the Ainkup arms ag necessary. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING When you have completed all the component parts (Fig 14-17)—the base anc top disks, flywheel, three poles, two linkup arms, two flyweights, two collars, wo °/e" rods that make up the upper ams and pull cord FIGURE 14-17 ring—set them on the work surface and check for potential Spread all the component partsouton the work surface, and problems. Then comes the fun stage of the first titting. ‘chock them against your working drawing and templates, 340. FLYWHEEL AND GOVERNOR MACHINEHaving first looked at the working drawing (Fig 14-1 ‘bottom center) and seen how the main shaft is. pivoted on a little pin-and-tack bearing, tap a brass pin or nall Into the bottom of the main shaft, and push a brass ‘thamatack into the basa hole. ‘with the base slab flat on the bench, tap the three poles in place, slide the main shaft through the flywhool, and cot the bottom ond of tho shaftin tho ‘centor-of-base hearing hole (Fig 14-18). Tho shait should ea tight push fit through the wheel, with the bottom of ‘tha end protruding about */” or so from the underside, When you have eased the bottom of the shaft with a scrap of fine-crade sandpaper so it’s a smooth fit in the bearing hole, slide the pull cord ring and the two collars in position (Fig 14-18), See to it that the ringanc, the male collar are a loose, easy-sligiag 1 pene a stor oma ies aN tn. tal smote eng asin as you bern mind that th ints ead tobe snow and acy th the ot pin ong att though ho wouter holes and ont though the imarmost ele Continue one it i ten ee bg a ope! tis Sever anaagetet is bond Hanan haa, ‘Whan all the joints ae loose and easy, and when you have established the full extant of the rise ané fall of the arms, slide the flyweights in place, and mark their position with pencil revistration marks (Fig 14-21), ‘With the trial fitting complete and the holes marked and drilled, disassemblethe machine and rerun the sequence, this time gluing all the dowel end pin joints. Finally, rub down any rough dowel/pin ends, crillthe ull string hole, give the whole works a generous wipe with the teak oll, cut ¢ pull string, and..wonderful— tha machina is raady fer action. PROBLEM SOLVING + When attaching the base and top blanks to the large faceplate, dont place the screws too near theedge rim. + Use astrong, thin cord forthe pull string. FIGURE 14-18 ‘Ease the bearing hole and the lide the ing and the collars endof the shaftso the whole in placgan the shaft. Tha top componentspins ike atop. _—collar necdsto boa tight fit. I FIGURE 14-21 ‘Make sure the flywoights don’tin any way restrict the movement of the armsor the circumference of swing. FLYWHEE LAND BOVERNOR MACHINE aaaPROJECT 15 Cam Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND I's not simply that the movement is extra difficult or the design is ultracomplox or the techniques are moro compli estad than the other projects; it's all ofthese and than some! As the encyclopedia so rightly savs, “e cam is a partof a machine, or mechanism, used for transforming rotary or oscillating motion by direct sliding or relling contact into any prescribed motion of a second part known as a follow- ex” Or, to put it another way, a cam isa rotating cylinder or plate with an irregular prolile attached to a revolving shaft togive a reciprocating motion to a part im contact with it. Cams are ta be found primarily in machinery where automatic control and timing are part of the operation, In simple terms, whon a cam revolves on its shaft, another mechanism, called a follower, stays in close physical con- tact with the cam profile, with theeffect that its movement reflects that of the cam. Tor example, if we have a true ‘wheel ona shaft, and if we have one end of a seesaw press- ing down on the wheel rim, it’s plain to see that the turning movement of the wheel will have little or no effect on the seesaw. But, then again, ifthe wheel has a hulge ora stud set into its rim, then every time the revolving bump or peg comes into contact with the seesaw, the seesaw wil jolt ‘up and down, The predictable jolt-jolt-jolt action 1s the ‘mechanical happening that turns the wheel-and-seesaw apparatus into 2 cam and follower ‘Our machine is a disk cam with rollers The working action is simple and direct: As the crank handle is turned, ‘the two plate cams are set in mation and the wheels follow ‘the cams with the effect that the frame and the shafts bob up and down (right), PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘Although there is no Geayiny thls project is a challenge, the challenging aspect has more to do with being able to “see" the machine in your mind's eye, and successfully putting {the parts together so the machine works, than with being able to perform overly complex or complicated woodwork- ing techniques. It’s important to note that the success or failure of the machine depends almost entirely on the two cam plates being accurately cat and placed. The cams have to be spot on. NE‘Copyrighted Material CAM MACHINE CAMMACHINE 14 Copyrighted MaterialCAM MACHINE M MACHINECAM MACHINE CAMMACHINE 34 ElémentsCAM MACHINE TEMPLATES T FIGURE a7CHOOSING YOUR wooD As this machina needs be made with a high degree of accuracy, Is all the more important your chosen wood be herd, straight grained, easy to work, and free from knots, warpe and eplite, The wood neade to be etable and predict able. With these factors uppermost inour mind, we decided at the outset to use European oak for the base, backhoard, ‘and whee! plates; plum for the two follower wheels; and a nice piece of mahogany for the two cam plates; and care- fully selected white wood dowel for all the pegs, rods, shafts and pins, ‘MAKING THE BASE, BACK AND BRACKETS ‘Whan you have studied the working drawing (Fig 15-1), the templates (Fig 16-2), and allthe hands-on photographs, use the penell, ler, compasses ‘and square to mark tha shape and profile of the nase, back slabs and two brackets. Meke sure the grain runs along the lengrt of the back and base slabs and from front to back through the brackets. With the shapas carefully drawn, then comes the task of fretting them out. No problem with the back and base slabs—all you dois mun the line of cut around me drawn Tine and the job is done—but the brackets are a Little more compliested The easiest procedure for eutting ‘tha two brackets is to pin the two slabs of wood togather, bore them through with the ’/” to°/«'-diameter bit, slide a length of suitable dowel in your chosen hole size, and fret ‘tham out on the scroll saw. aga CAM MACHINE ‘After cutting aut the two brackets (Fig 15-3}, pencil label one “top” and the other “bottom.” Take the “hottom” bracket, draw in the line as shown (Fig 15-2 ottom), and slice off the stip with the saw (Fig 15-4). FIGURE 15-3 ‘To ensure agood profile and accurate hole alignment, pin the two ‘labs together, and have a length of dawel running through the ‘two holes, You will ned to keep = tight hold when the blade exits ‘atthe ond of the cut when the twa pinned areas of waste have ‘hoon mare er loss cut away. FIGURE 15-4 ‘The four largs component parts—the base, backboard and two ‘brackots—showinga slice cut away from the bottom bracket. tis welt wien you lace the bracts in postion lb ory ou aa a ot ‘arent ned a far uate amber and two baata-toa smooth un eGgn ish, MAKING THE FOLLOWER ‘WHEEL BOGEYS Ti you look at the working drawing (Fig 18-1), ‘templates (Fig 15-2) and photographs, you will seethat the two wheels that follow the cam, called follower ‘wheels, are each held and contained in a frame, or bogey, ‘that is made up primarily from a long, bone-shaped chassis and two shield-sheped wheel plates, You will further see that although each bogey is made up of an identical chassis cutout, the top wheel chassis is arranged 80 that Us offset from the bottom wheel chassis. The big lend bulges on the top chassis face the backboard, while ‘tha big bulges on the bottom chassis face front. ‘Take the wood you have selected for the two bogey chassis plates, pin and drill them as already described for the brackets, and then fret them out aa the scroll saw (Fig 15-5), ‘With the two identical chassis plates crisply cut out anc finished, set them flat on the surtace so the big bulge ends are looking toward each other, and pencil label them for swift identification, If you look to the twro cutouts shown (Fig 15-6), best label ths one in the foraground “top” and the other one atta” FIGURE 15-5 ‘ving the holes drilled and all the dowels satin place—all prior ‘to cutting—Is the best way of making sure you finish up with two Identical eutonts. FIGURE 15-6 ‘Sot the twa cutouts flat so thay are raversod and you now what 18 whers and how. ‘Now take the wood pieces you have set aside for the ‘wheel plates and stack, pin, drill and dowel them in much the same way as already described so you have a single eight-layer stack. ‘Take the eight-iayer stack—with the design drawn fon the top layer and the dowels in place—and run, them through on the serall saw so you have eight identical cutouts. Divide the cutouts into two tacks of fou, and cut a strip from one stack (Fig 15-7) FIGURE 15-7 Group the whee! plates ia two stacks of four, sot the dowsls in place ‘through one stack, and mun that stack through on the scroll saw, Pair up the cutouts for best fit, and put the waste strips to one ‘side. Ona pair of plates ata time, smaargine on mating faces, ‘make sure the Roles are well aligned, and pat the plates to one ‘side until the glue i dry, ‘You should now have four complate shield shapes, each with two holes: four strips, each with a single hole; and four triangle shapes, each with a single hols (Fig 15-8). Set the four strips aside (two of these are used at @ ater stage), pair the one-hole plates up with the two-hole plates so bottom holes are aligned, and qlue them together as shown [Fig 15-8). CAM MACHINE‘Copyrighted Material FICURE15-0 ‘Having tumod Gown ths weod te a well-fniskod cyinvger and ‘Stappod aff tho thicimees of tha whoets and the araas of part-att ‘waste clear thoBuBaf the waste with the parting tos, MAKING THE FOLLOWER WHEELS AND DOWEL-SLICE WASHERS Bo Lnoket the working drawing (Fig 15-1). Pt" phum on the lathe ga ‘Mount a piace of 24 With the wood in place on the lathe, take your gouge ‘and tum down the wood to the lexgast posetbla diameter. Now take the skew chisel and tha calipers and borefully skim the wood ta a 2° cylmder Be precisa Starting at the tailetackend, use the raler and. dividers ta mark the cylinder with the step-offs: a ‘emall amount for tailstack waste, /e' for the first wheal, 2/4" for pertmg waste :/"fortha secand wheel, 2/2! ior patting wasts, and the remainder far anather project. ‘Jaketha parting tnol and sink the wasteta a depth of about */’, 50 youare left with a central core at about '/" (Fig 15-6). On the lathe, drill a!/¢"-diametar hole through the length of the project (Pig 15-10), It a streight- forward procedure, aglongas yousdvance and withdrew ‘the drillina serias of small steps, Run tha drill to a depth of sbout //",then draw tthackta clear the waste, ‘then sink the hole another ¥/" then withdraw and clear ‘the waste, and so on until the hale ts complete, 150 CAMMACHINE Figure 15-10 ‘Run ta ado Males trough with the /." iH Bit, Onoe yousre sattetied with the finished dimansions of the wheels, use the parting tal ‘tu part off the wheals, Sand down the part-olf faces of the wheel ta 8 smaoth finish, Copyrighted MaterialNow take the large-diamater dowel you set aside for the washer, drill it through with a'/."-dlameter hele, and slice it off like salami so you havea selection of varying sized washers. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING ‘The best procedure Is to frst ary bulla with the tight-push pegs, pencil label the whole works with registration mazke, and then, when you are sure all ie correct, begin giaing and paging it together (Fig 16-11), Familiarize yourself with how the project fits together. Mark out the base, back and two brackets. ‘This done, having first drilled the dovrel-iixing holes, ary fit the parts in position, and drive the dowel pegs home. ‘Take the chassis platas, shait stubs, wheel plates anc wheels—all smoothly sanded dowa and pencil marked~and peg them together. Dont forget to have the wooden washor to one elde of the wheel co the wheel Se offset in the chassis (Fig 15-12). Ifyou look ta the working drawing (Fig 15-1), you will see that with the top wheel, ‘tha washer is at the back so the wheal is pushed forward, ‘while with the bottom wheel, the washer is set at the front so the wheel is pushed toward the backboard. Once the wheels and the washers are in place, set the wheel plates firmly in position, and hold the unit secure with the dowel and axle pegs (Fig 15-19).If you've got it right, the push-fit pegs should just about hold, ovorything in place. While you are working on the chassis, bogeys, set the distance dowels through the width of the chassis and set them so they relate to the brackets and ‘tha backboard. If you look at the working drawing (Tig 15-1), the templete drawing (Fig 15-2) and the various photograghs, you will sae that the function of the distance dowels is ta hole the chassis plate a set distance away from the backboard, while at the same time stopping the whee! frame from twisting. With the two bogey carriages complete, slide thom in place in tha brackets, and cot the drive shaft support post in place at the front of the baseboard (ha 15-15), ‘Move the support post and set the four frame dowels in place so the two bogeys are linked, spaced and aligmed (Fig 15-16). With the frame dowels fitted, ease the distance dowels so the whole follower frame sli¢es smoothly up and down in the bracket holes (Fig 19-14), FIGURE 15-12 Fit the wheel plate on the side ofthe chassis, slide the axlerod in place, and sat the distance washer on the azio. FIGURE 15-13 ‘Set the wheol plates firmly in position, and hold the unit secure ‘with he dowel page and azla, Then paneil abel the pieces. FIGURE 15-14 ‘The distance rods nocd to be a tight push fit through the width of ‘the chassis and setso the whole bosey is able to freely slide up ‘and down in the bracket hole, CAM MACHINE agaFIGURE 15-15 Set the shaft support polein placein readiness forthe final fitting. FIGURE 15-16 ‘Slide the four frame dowels in place. beokof the cam ates Pig1617) and se the wane demon prt nla st is potatoe need moe rower ashe intr alles r waster i to ee, FIGURE 15-18, ‘Add washer slicesuntl exch plate is aligned with its follower ‘whol. You'll noed to spond some timesanding and adjusting for bost ft, 388 CAM MACHINE FIGURE 15-17 ‘With the cam plates on the drive shaft, testthe movement with washers. hen you have played around with the arrangement of dewel-slice washers until the twocams ere aligned with the follewer wheels, and when you have popped the dowel pay through the twa cams so they are linked and held together spend time adjusting the two ‘wheel bogeys on their four frame shafts so the follower ‘wheels are in contact with the edges of the cams (Fig 16-18). Although you do have todo your hest to achieve a good fit and finish to the whole machine, Ithink you also have to accept compromises. For example, if the wheel pivots are slightly askew, you might have to ease one or other of the parts with the sandpaper. ‘Whon you have achieved a smooth working action, ‘with the frame being neatly lifted upand down by ‘the cams, and when you have labeled the whole machine with as many registration marks as you think necessary, now isthe time to glue it up, o Finish the project with a rubbing of teak oil. PROBLEM SOLVING ‘This is ong of those wonderfully floxiblamachines that ie opento al sorts of exciting design changes and modifications, For example, you could use itto drive oneaf the otxer projects, you could make it bigger or smaller, you could have the chassis bogeys running on trecks, you could have more ‘cams and more follower wheels, you could redesign the frame so that itis held horizontally, and so on,PROJECT 16 Steam Crank Slider Mechanism PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘The steam crank slider mechanism is one of those joyaus archetypal machines that cote me to thinking about steam. trains and heavy industry, 'm sure you know what I mean, the good old bad days, a time betore this, before plastics and computers, when just about everything to do with industry and plant was massively built in cast iran—tots of steam, grease, oll and noise! This is a great machine to watch in action. When the handle istumed—either way—the crank moves backwards and forwards, and the piston is set to moving on its guide black. PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘Haye alook at the project pictuze (right), the working dram- ing (Figura 16-24) and the tomplates (Figure 16-28), and seo how the stanchion and the guide black are fitted to the base board sothat the piston blockis nicely in line with the crank, See also how the crank rod is fixed inside the piston block, s0 as toallow for the movement af both components, Although the design is pretty straightforward—not too many precise measurements—you do have to be mindful thet the relationship between the length of the rod and the Jength of the piston guide slot iscritical, That said, if youdo ‘have doubts as te how the various slots and pins work ane ‘to another, then it's always ¢ good ideato sort out potential problems by making a paper, pin and cardbocrd protatype. MCRANKSLIDER MECHANISM 188‘Copyrighted Material STEAM CRANK SLIDER MECHANISM BA STEAMCRANE SLIDER MECHANIEM Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material STEAM CRANK SLIDER MECHANISM WORKING DRAWING SE VEW FIGURE 16-28 ‘A. Round -tarped stanchion. B Flywheel (© Base board D Guide plats 1B Cambro. P Guide block. Piston block. Gude plats STEAM CRANK SLIDER MECHANISM 156 ‘Copyrighted MaterialSTEAM CRANK SLIDER MECHANISM TEMPLATES FIGURE 16-28 A ount-toppec stanchion, rani rea jeblock ston blank, . F 5 Guide late. ' Spacer ringCUTTING LIST ‘A Round-topped stanchion °/4x5xSY/s B Flywheel 16555 = i" © Base board 1e4nig D_ Guile plate AEA E Crank rod TT F Bulle block 128 © Piston block: 1B B H_Guite piate Parana T_Specersing Fede CHOOSING YOUR wooD This is one of those projects where just about anything goes—it you want to use pine throughout, or offcuts, then ‘tine. That sald, its important that both the flywheel and the crankrod be made from easy-to-turn wood~something ike lime, beech or maple. I's no goed trying to turn knotty oak! We chose to use English brown oak for the base slab, stanchion and drive plates, beech for the guide block and tha piston block, and lime for the wheel and the rod. MAKING THE BASE SLAB ‘Take the piece of wood that you have chosen for the base slab, and use a rule and square to draw it out to slze at 3° * 12" Cut the wood to size, and use a shooting board and smoothing plane ta bring the slah ta a good crisp finish (Figure 16-3), Bevel the edges with a block plane. Pencil label the underside. MAKING THE STANCHION Use a pencil rule and compass to draw the stanchion to size on the workout paper—make changes to the profile if you have # mind to—and then use the same procodurs to cot tha image out on your chogon ploce of wood. Fix the position of the pivot point and run it through with a bit to match the diameter of your dowel rod. Use a scroll saw to fret out the form. Work at an easy ‘pace, so that the line af cut is clean and fractionally tothe waste side of the drawn line (Figure 16-4), FIGURE 16-3 ‘Usea shooting board and asmoothing plans to skim the edyes toa crisp tao finish, Reduce the friction by bumishing the chosks of ‘the plane with a white candle. FIGURE 16-4 ‘Work ata steady pace, all the while heing vanly to mave the wond ‘20 that the blade is presented with the ine of cut. MAKING THE PISTON BLOCK AND SLIDING BLOCK Cut the piston block to shape and size, end draw in the position of the guide rod slot, he hereare any number ways easing te ist esis Tua ant a ecaeetin ce strand thon ran be outer haved and lorwar tom hte tle unt yur hoagh au 1) STEAMCRANK SLIDER MECHANISM 187FIGURE 16-5 ‘Run the warkpioce hackward and forward, while at the same time ‘gently lowering the bit, Cutthe piston guide block to size and shape ‘meaning the block on which the piston block sits—ane dry fix it in place on the base slab with dowels (Figure 16-6), Fix the stanchion pillar in lke manner, go Gut the two piston guide plates to size. Having first tured the piston rod to shane and rubbed it down on opposite sides, drilla hole into the end of the piston block and use a loose-fit pia to fix the ‘thin end of the rod in the hole. ‘Modify the shape of the piston hole until the rod is, able tomave up and down without hindrance (Figure 16-7) Falta plato bls othe gl ck, Frese pets on onto nd ran dowel hugh the aes stat he ston is contlnag cree 485 STEAM CRANK SLIDER MECHANISM FIGURE 16 Fixthe components on the base board with dry dowel. Note ‘that the line of decorative drill sinkings was achieved with a Forstner bit. FIGURE 16-7 ‘The pin needs to boa tight ft through the block and a leo ‘through the end af the rod, a that the movement in frae. FIGURE 16-8 ‘Adjust theft of theplates and the longth of theslo! so thatthe ‘extant of the rua relates to the diameter ofthe flywheel.FIGURE 16-10 ‘Woo a pillar dill and aForstner bit to mun the holes through the ‘thickness. Nata how the turned line helps eat the positi ‘center points. ofthe FIGURE 16-11 ‘Rub the turning down at the broad end—natil there are two distinct flats, with the distance across the flats being equal tothe ‘Giameter ofthe turning at the thin end. MAKING THE FLYWHEEL ‘Take your piece of sawn wood at” thick and "x5" square, and check it aver for problems— avoid anything that looks ta be split or knotty. If you have doubts, then look for ancther piece. Draw crossed dagonals across tne 5 * 5” slab to fix the position of the center point, Scribe a circle at 4:/." dlamotor,and cut the blank dick out o tha serail saw. ‘Mount the disk on the lathe and turn it down toa finished diemeter of 4/«"at about "/"" thick Use a parting tool and the skew chisel to turn off the profiles that go to make up the design. Aim for a rim at about '/*" wide, with the central boss being about 1" diameter, with the face of the boss being about °/«" lower ‘than the face of the rim (Figure 16-9). Bub the disk toa smooth finish and remove from the lathe, Having jirst used 2 compass to divide the circumference of the wheal into six equal segments, raw lines across the circle so 2s to createa six-spoke form, and then use the bit size of your choice to run six holes through the wheel (Figure 16-10). FITTING THE CONNECTING ROD ‘Whon you ere happy with the shape ané finish of the wheel, and when you have drilled the holes forthe central pivot and the handle, take the piston rod and continue sanding the twa “flats’ down to a smooti finish. ‘The best way forward is to rub the faces down on & lapping boerd—meaning a sheet of abrasive paper ‘that hes bzen mounted grit-face-up ona sheet of plywood (Figure 16-11). Continue until the distance across the resultant flats Is equal to the diameter of the rod at the thin end, Finally, have a trial fitting of the rod on the flywheel, Ifallis well the wheel should beable torotate with the flat face oi the rod being in close but smooth contact— no twisting. STEAMCRANK SLIDER MECHANISM 18@‘Try out the movement 1f all is well, the flat face of the rod will ‘ran smooth against the wheel rim. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING ‘whan you have achieved allthe component parts that make up the design, then comes the testing task of getting it all togother. You should have eight primary parts in all:the hase slab, the stanchion pillar, the flywheel, the piston block, the guide block, the piston, and two guide plates, plus any other bits and bobs that, ‘you have the time and energy to make along the way (Agure 16-13), Check the components aver, and then use the finest grade of abrasive paper to rub them down toa good ‘iulsh, Give all the surfaces—barriny the mating faces mat are tobe glued—a swift rub down with @ smell amount of toak oil, 4eo STEAM CRANK SLIDER MECHANISM ‘When you ere happy with the finish, start by gluing ‘and pegging the stanchion and the guide block to ‘the base board. Glue the dowelin the center of the flywheel, and glue and dowel the guide plates one at either side of a guide block, so Mat the piston Mock Is nicaly contained (Figure 16-14), Sot the piston rod in place on the handle dowel, and center the tapered end into the piston block. Then Lit with a glued pin, so that the wooden pin isa tight fitin the block and a loose fit through the rod (Figure 15-15). ‘Test out the movement by slowly tuming the flywheel. Ifall is well, the piston should he at the limit of its run when the rodis fully extended at the quarter-past-the-hour position (Figure 16-16) ‘Whon you ero happy with the mevemont, thon comas tha enjoyable taskof fitting all the little embellishments that jolly up the design—the turned beed, all the little dowel stubsat the top of the piston, and the half-beads around the circumference of the flywheel. Finally, having first of all waited for the glue to set, give allthe surfaces anather swift rub awa, ‘wipe on another coat of teak oil, and then youcan set the whee! turning, FIGURE 16-13, ‘Check all the component parts aut for fit and finish. Make sure mating faces are flush, andtrue,PIGUBE16-14 ‘PR ana guido plate onthe guidelioeD, sot tha piston tm placa ana [Push tho sot dawel in position. Toa might well naed toease tne ‘Sot sa that the moversant 1s fros, PICUREI6-15 ‘Pach the weoden pin through the piston bioeix wed on tareugh te ‘hota at ta end Of the Tod. er rigumei63¢ ‘1 pany wn nani setae pean eur poner toneten courant ha wt nat ieentzate FIGURE 16-17 ‘Whien youarehappy win the mt rob tae eds tue tarongh-pIn ‘owen to fms nis. PROBLEM SOLVING * 1Fyou te tne overad deat me project, Dur want to mate someting altogether more qrand—sey auch lgger—mo ‘problem, 25 long as You make sore that te diameter ofthe ‘Mywoeed, the eng ote reo, andthe lang atte pasion ‘lock sist arecomatibie + Wolle tke the project ast stands GU rece thet st Wout ‘bealogetier more exeling it we bad a sett four ArweeIs and fooc pistons with al he pistons set so tat hey gush oe after nother She thinks that it would be more foeepiog with ‘thenaaey enginasring tractian.1 sounds so easy! “1a you tbe the notion ot the pret but enestso.%een on woodturalog. you could get way with cutting e-woeel out ‘on the sro Saw aot ustog-e ready made Jeogtnct dowel for ‘mapiston ot - "afte piston loncsticks nenreen the guide ates, then. ‘ry bumishing thasides ofthe piston with @ smal] amount ‘ofbeesmar, + are ras ton tg to alow tne piston beet get te ‘end af ts ron then ether shorien the Yength ofthe rel or ‘epgtten te guide sit ‘saryoure a baginmer to woodturning, you can take it from me ‘tat ons ofthe best extras isthe rourjaw chuct. as you can ‘se It allows you tohold disk Monks securely without the ‘eed mr serews ‘STEAM CRANK SLIDER MECHANISM 161 Copyrighted Material‘Copyrighted Material PROJECT 17 Differential Pulley Block PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘Vhan we lived by sboatyard [used ta watch in amazement st the launchings. Having spent ste manths buildmg a ‘wootlan fishing tawler that was truly ab big as 2 howse— about 60’ long with osken ribs asthick as a men's‘hody, 20" high from keel to deck, ell ullt on tap of a massive tron car- iage—the bullders would use aeries of pulleys and levers ‘te moh the fmishad haat cut of the kuilding shed and sata ‘the water. They made it look en easy! They would hock ong end of the pulley to thecarriage, and the ether end to one of ‘the huge ron rings pat mtn the qusy side, Then they would ump away at the ratchet handle, and it was baaunifal ta watch. Four middle-aged men ittle-by-littla inching the Ing boat from the shed and onto the launching ramp. All ot atdone with pullays and levers. PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘Look at the project picture to the right, the working draw- sng (Figure 17-24) and the dasign templates (Figure 17-28), snd you'll see that the astence of this project ts making mubiplee. There ara lots of tumed pulleys, wheels, groups nf identical plates, sets ofhalder bars, and so on. Ifyou like malig repeats, then you are going to enjoy this project. ‘The ratchet 19 a bit tricky bacauoe i must ba laid cut accurately with @ compass. Look at the das templates (Figure 17-28) and note how the wheel design is echived bby scribing rediue arcs around the circumference of the eurela ta divide t up anta abc equal parts. ‘This project 18 designed to be lung on the wall ike a [Picture or a pleoe of sculpture, The holes tn the bankboard sreused as hanging pomts. AGE DIFFERENTIAL PULLEY BLOC Copyrighted MaterialDIFFERENTIAL PULLEY BLOCK DIFFERENTIAL PULLEY BLOCK 168DIFFERENTIAL PULLEY BLOCK TIAL PULLEY ALOCKDIFFERENTIAL PULLEY BLOCK ySLOCK 168 DIFFERENTIAL PULLDIFFERENTIAL PULLEY BLOCK WORKING DRAWING i \ PRONT VIEW ‘Top IEW SIDE VIEW FIGURE 17-28 ‘With this project, feel free to experiment with different sizes and thicknesses of wood. A Eackboard. 2B atchet outrigger. 5 Ratchet vee, © Top ganapulley plat, F Swinging gans puley pate 1 Fatchet sop plate 4 Fandle crank 1 Holder bar 3 Distance disk, Pulley wheel 4e8. DIFFERENTIAL PULLEY 8LOGKDIFFERENTIAL PULLEY BLOCK TEMPLATES FIGURE 17-28 F Swinging gang pulley plate Ratchet stop plate, Handle crank 1 Holder 3 istan x PulleyFIGURE 17-4 FIGURE 17-5 {f you're now to the scroll saw, you might aot know that the First cut out the disk, then clear each of the six pieces of waste ‘ate of cutis governed by the speed atwhich you nivancethe ‘with two straight cats, ‘workpiece. To have more control when cutting tight curves, ‘simply slow dewn feeding the wood into the blade, Whan you're satistied with the shape, drilla*/s" hole for ihe plvot and a smatl note for the thxing peg. Eh estore ester erat sow igre 17 MAKING THE HOOK ‘Now comes the good fun of whittling the hook to shape. I's fun because it’s also achallenge. ‘Whittling a dense wood like plum is always tough going. ‘The only tricky partis you have to keep changing the direction of the cut as you work around the curves. If you ‘sind yourself cutting duzecuy into end grein, turn the hook around andl cut from another direction (Figure 17-6), ‘Whan you have whittled the hook to shape, wrap a fold of sandpaper around a dowel te help you sand ‘tha curves, Sand until i's smooth. FIGURE 17-6 ‘Work with « controlled paring cut, all the whilemaking sure that youarecntting with the grain. DIFFERENTIAL PULLEY BLOCK _ 168‘When you've finished giving all five pulley wheels a ‘V-groove and one fais face, place them oneat a time inthe four-jaw lathe chuck and remove the waste until the rim and the central boss stand slightly above the center section (Figure 17-8) ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING When al the parts have been built—the hacking board, outriggor arm, thrse pear chaped plates, ‘two diamone-shaped piatas, three main pulley whoels, the ratchet pulley, acogced ratchet wheel, ston lever, ‘winding crank, hook, three holding bars andall the other small pieces (Figure 17-10)—then comes the time to put it all together. Check all the parts for problems—splits, rough areas, ‘warping and such. Send all pieces smooth Being, very careful not to get eny on the ‘aces that are to be glued, apply teak oll to the pieces. EW iter wnecsin ace os he beckaoar The best anoroahisto the pater an the balding bas and then ath th wo play whee igure 7 Peg and glue the outrigger to the side of the backboard. Set the ratchet stop in place on the board, fit the litte block that limits the stop, and then glue the ratchet dowel in place (Figure 17-12). FIGURE 17-10 ‘When you've madeall the parts, sand them smooth, clean away ‘thedust and then apply a smallamount of teakor Danish ol. ‘oop the oi! off the faces that willbe glued. FIGURE 17-11 ‘Becarefulwhen gluing the dowel. Only glue the plate holes, so the ‘wheels are frao to mave, FIGURE 17-12 ‘The litle dark block under the ratchet stopisalimiter.It keeps ‘the stop from dropping down. DIFFERENTIAL PULLEY BLOCK 37a‘Copyrighted Material ‘The luting order for the ratchet unit on the dowel is cogged ratchet, pulley wheel, crank hold peg snd ‘handle dowel. A. small peg through the dowel holds everything in place (Figure 17-15). ‘The ewmging gang—the unstwrith the single pulley wheel and hock—is wonderfully eaby to fit AI you do is sandwich the hook, pulley and spacer whee) ‘hetween the two plates, then glue the dowel pivots in ‘Place, Keep the glue at the end of the dowels so the three components at the center of the sandwich erefreetomava (Figure 17-14), FICURE17.13 ‘Smear gius on all mating faces of the ratchot unit—the rates, ‘pulley wheel crankand the Hits holding dewel Yeu want to ‘rea ermpepents to move 2s ons, , a & ‘eet an ‘a1! tnroe companonts noed te Bo froo moving within tho plates, 47H DIFFERENTIAL PULLEYELOCK FIGURE 17-15 (Wham youre happy wht the card, aria sal Bote inte tae ‘ratenot paltgy and tha alstanes ais. Thon attaeh the card onds ‘im gine and pogs. ‘To install the drive cord, follow this road map: start tat the top spacer whe] on tha ewinging gang, ga over and arqund the front pulley on the top unit, then own tothe pulley on tha swinging unt, backup to the ‘back pulley on tha top unit, and them tmally round to the pulley on the retchet untt Fix tha ende of the cord by plaing them into pegged drilled holes (Figure 17-16). PROBLEM SOLVING ‘Depending om your choice of ave card, you Mey need ‘to make the V-ceetian grageescn the play wheels ‘slighty deeper. + We rele on a tour-jaw chuck tomake these parts 1t rou ‘doo bav# one, YoU need to elther purEDce one OF wan O ‘way lust sufis your latessetup, “In setzospect, GU reckons thet this project would bare been. ‘more suotesstol t we-nad made everything much smalez, ‘ou might want to muda tmisat nairtne ston siz, ‘When yao come to iting theretchst whee) you may find ‘At necessary to use pencil paper anda piece of cardboaxt to ‘termine the precise position atthe stop and block, ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material PROJECT 18 The Excentric Squirrel Fan PROJECT BACKGROUND The excentric squirrel fan is a mechenlem designed ta Sraw tn and compress large volumes of air using centrifu- al force. If you want to ventilate a ship, factory or mina shaft, erpush warm air from one momte another, then this 4s the fan to use, In use, the alris sucked in through emall ‘Vents at the sides, compressed durmg tts progress through ‘the gpiral and then forced out from. the outlet mouth, with each wing of the fan acting as a valve, Ae ta why 1's called on ‘excentric squirrel” fan, I cantt say for sure, ather than ‘thtsis tha term and the spelling that was used by a certain Sir John Robinson, in 1860 or thereabouts, when ha Hesygned 4 revolutionary new warmmg end ventlatmg arrangement far his house m Edinburgh, Scotland, Tha spelling for “excentric!" is wetrd but oorrect. PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘Have a look at the project picture (right), the working draw- mgs (Figure 18-2A) and the templates (Figure 18-28). Tha fan 1g made up from e-backing board, a frame plate end a ‘base board, with tha hres components sharing the same profile, This was achieved by sandwiching three boards jnd then cutting tham out allofa-piece—with the resultant ‘waste being used for a good number of the ather compo- nente The movement is achieved by masns of a drive helt ‘that runs fram one wheel ta another, with the mntive force ‘being supplied by the crank handle, The guod fun thing ‘with this project 1g nat po much the smeoth mavernant af ‘the fan, but rather in the makmg:[ say this hecause, to my mind, there is something particularly pleasuresome about ‘the procedure of cutting and fitting the fen wings so thar ‘they are atight close iit within the frame plate, ‘THEENCENTRIC SQUIRREL FAN 173 ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material ‘THE EXCENTRIC SQUIRREL FAN WORKING DRAWING FRONT VIEW SME VIEW FIGURE 1-20 A Backng bawsd, B Precne alate. © Fan, D Babben wheel, E Saallbolt wheel F Coasiebandle, © Base board, TOR VEW 474 THEENCENTRIC SQUIRREL FAN ‘Copsrighied MatetialTHE EXCENTRIC SQUIRREL FAN TEMPLATES ackmg board Frama pte a E small nett whael F asMAKING THE FAN WHEEL ‘Take the wood that you have chosen touse for the fan hub and then use the compass fixed at a radius ofa little under 1/s«' to draw out a cirsle with a diameter of 2'/*", Draw an inner circle at about I" diameter. Run a Nole through the canter of the drawn out circle to match up with the diameter of your chosen pivot dovol ‘With the compass still set at the radius measure- ‘ment, first step off around the circumference so that you have six equal divisions, and then halve the divisions 0S to divide the circumference into twelve equal parts, like the face of a clock. Draw lines from the circumference intersections to the center—Just like the spoxes of a wheel—and then move to the band sew end run straight sew cuts along the spoke linas, stopping short at the ling of the innar eicl. Lastly, move to the scroll saw and cut around the outer circle so that you finish up with the hub wheel (Agure 18-5). ‘Take the wood for the wing flats and plane it down to a thickness of about '/.". Cut the wood into twelve identical lengths ata litle under */:" wide and 1/«" long. ou One piece at atime, take @ small sharp knile and shave away the thickness at one end, untilit is a tight push fit in the band saw eut (Figure 18-8) MAKING THE BELT WHEELS Having first useda plane to thickness your chosen ‘wood to °/*, then use the compass to set oat the two clicles—1’/«" diameter for the large wheel, and */." for the small one. Bo Gut the two circles out on the scroll saw. Ong blank at atime, take the knife and the riffler file and cut and work the V-groove (Figure 18-7). Run ‘three pencil lines around the thickness of the wood so that ‘you have four hands—tiwo equal outer bandsat 7/0” and. two inner side-by-side bands at ‘/s”. Runa stopeut down ‘between the two /:c" bands, and cut into the stop-cut to make the V-section. Do this on hath wheels. FIGURE 18-5 First cut the slots and then cut out the circle. This way of working allows you to correctly align the band saw cuts well before they ‘onter the circle, FIGURE 18. (Shave the wood on hath aides hat aach wing isa ight pach ft. {It you are using a hefty saw blade or thin vengers, then vou could ‘maybe miss outon the shaving stage. FIGURE 18-7 sea knifo to cut the V-gronve, then run the rifflor file everand ‘round—always working with the run of the grain. ‘THOEXOENTRIC SQUIRREL PAN a77FIGURE 11 ‘Work witha tight paring stroke—as if you were paring a ‘small apple. MAKING THE CRANK HANDLE eee Run a center line down the width of the wood so that it is aligmed with the direction of the grain. Then use ‘tha compass, ule and pencil to set out the design. With a drill bit to match the diameter of your dowel, rum holes through the twa pivat points. Then fret the profile out on the scroll saw. | Use the penknife to whittle the arm of the crank toa round section finish. Work from ené to center 90 68 to avold ninning the blade into ena grain (Pigure 18-8) Having made the knob—I tumed mine, but you could just as well use a found bead—takea little scrap of easy-to-carva wood and makea little pivot pin to run through the knob (Figure 18-9), Work the whittling with a knife and fine-grade sandpaper, until it is a tight fitin the crank and a loose fit though the knob, with the swelling at ine end of the pivot ecting as stop, ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING ‘Take all the component parts and check them over {or possible problems—pay particular attention to ‘tha fan hub, See how I trimmed heck the width of my hase board by ahout 2”, so that it looks more balanced. When you are happy that all s correct, then comes the thme toa havea trial run putting together, ive. THE BXCENTRIC SQUIRREL TAN FIGURE 18-8 ‘Sand the peg toa round sectiono that it's a loose fit through the Jknob and a tight fitin the erank hole. FIGURE 18-10 ‘The frame plate might well warp when It has been cut. if this ‘happens then you will nod to easeit te it, FIGURE 18-11 ‘Trim the wingson both sides, and set them in the sits so that ‘they are in aligamont with the radins linos.Position the face frame plate on the backing board and mark its position. Establish the precise position ofthe two wheel pivots, and run them through witha bit size to match your chosen dowels, Set the frame plate in position on the back and run selected fixing oles through the thickness of tne backboard. Fix the frame with three or four cacktaib-stick pins (Figure 18-10). Setthe wing flaps inthe hub slots, and make adjustments (Figure 18-11) until the total diameter of the fan makes for a tight fit within the frame plate, Place the drive belt wheel on the top face of the hub, ang fix it with wooden pins (Figure 16-12). Once the fan wheel is in place, crillthe rest atthe holes through the base board. Ityour frame warped, you might need to fiddle around for heat it (Figure 18-12). Slide the spacar wheel on the drive pivot (Figure 18-14), and then fit the crank and wheel unit. ‘Take a waxed twine and cut and knot atwo-strand rive belt to ft. Finally, disassemble the components and work ‘through the usual procedures of fine sanding, afting, gluing and waxing. PROBLEM SOLVING + One ofthe biggest dificultes with this project is choosing the wood forthe fan wings, ot enly do you need a wood that is straight crained, witha lot of strength along the run of the train, hut the wood must berelatively easy to plene. [chose ash, but you could just as well go forbeech, maple or some types of pina, You could aver bur reedy-cut veneers and sandwich themto makethe thickness, + Be very careful when you ere cating the freme plate that ‘you dor' breathe form aeroee the chor grain. + Use vax-lined cord forthe drive belt, or aven ora of those lite treck belts from a childs constmction kt. + When you are working the V-section wheels with the rifler file, you will need tochange your approach te suit the run of ‘thegrain Por example, tyot arrange your disk blank so that ‘thegramn runs ftom 6 oclock to 12 o'clock, then you will nave ‘to workup end down from So‘clock and 8 o'cincke ‘The helt wheol is best fixed in place with a couple of pegs—the ‘doa being that you thea don't havete worry somuch about the fitting at the gluing stage. FIGURE 19-13 ‘The frame might need to he repeatedly enced tot. FIGURE 18-14 {Wsimportant that the spacsr stands slightly proud of the frame plate go that the crank handle is Kifted fractionally clear of ‘thefrane. CENTRIC SQUIRREL PAN areSIX VALVE RADIAL ENGINESIX VALVE RADIAL ENGINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 19-28 A Engine body. B aching aish, crank asn, spacers. F sacemounts Baseslab, Piston rods TOP VIEW | body. (CROSS-SECTION DETAILSHOWING ‘THE PIVOTING ARRANGEMENT RADIAL ENGINESIX VALVE RADIAL ENGINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 18-28 Tho scale istwo grid squares to" Nate with the engine Atak how the designs bast om ahex orm, with the offs boing eatablishod bby making radi Engine bee, ing ask, ase mounts a 8 e 2 e F Base slay 4 Piston rcs, 183‘Copyrighted Material ‘CUTTING LIST 2 ‘ee 0 10 pinwcod 20 «10 ne 42 Wa" Wa walnut CHOOSING YOUR WOOD ‘The choice of wond is governed almost entirely by techni calneed The wood needsta-be easy ta turmand strong. Far ‘these gasons, [chase iime for the main engine badly, thin ‘plywood for the backing disk, beach far tha hasa and tha ide mounts, a danse African walnut far the pistons and ‘Blum for the piston rods, The pleces thet pose tha most challenge are the piston mde The wond for these needs ta Ihe strong even when it's cut into thin slices. MAKING THE BASE ‘Takethe I’-thick slab of wood far the hase and plane it down to a finished thickness of */. Use @ square, rule and compass to lay out the design onthe wond, then cut stto shape on your seroll saw. Bo Sand itto eemooth fmich, go Cuttha two Inte mount wedges to shape and sto, sothe top curve ts a partialcircle that comes froma pirole with a radius af 4/s" (Figure 19-3), MAKING THE ENGINE BODY ‘Jake your 10° * 10” slab of wood and draw crossed uagomals to find the center point Set your dividers tea diameter of 49/4" end ecribe a 0'/:".diameter circle, Use a 23/4"-tiameter Forster bit ta drill through the canter of the Blank. 184 SINVALVE RADIALENGINE FIGURE10-3 ‘Sot to woeyos to ta base so tat te part-ctremmfaranco curves ‘ta @-ttameter atex: FIGURE 19-4 ‘Tue whats procedure aftoming the engine disks mats oasy by (ties of a Four-jaw ChuCd. Yen WH ned te tara tha jaws around ‘sotRat the steps Mt mrsios tho Role at acaMter of he cArcIe, #0 (hat the Jaws grip when thoy are wound apart. Change the jaws of your lathe chuck so thay're in the expanding moda, Mount the disk on thelathe endtumn it down te eize:?/¢’thick and "in diameter (Figure 19-4), ‘Turn the finished disk aver in the chuck. Cut a guide ling around the e1rcle about '/e" in from the edge, ‘than lower the face of tha rasultng 6°/«'-diameter circle te adepthof'V or the thickness of the plywoad you're ‘using, The idea toto ft the plywood disk into the repega eo s’scontained., ‘With your compass set at a radius of 47’, make six equal step-otfs argund the circumference, Then wae ‘tho etx points to draw mall the details of the design (es2 Figures 19-24 and B) ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material PIGURE19-5 ‘You neod te sk two holes for each piston ekambor—one at each ‘ond of tRechamber. Use a P/u'-Giameter Forster btt to drill out the piston chamber halas (Figure 19-6), Drill twa halas for each chember When you have marked out the dasign and drilled out the ends of the piston chambers, use a scroll saw ‘to cut out the rest of the design (Figure 10-6), Make sure ‘the sown edges ara clean and crisp and at right angles to ‘theface of the disk. mally, use progressively mar grades of sandpaper tn gata emcoth finish. Pay particular attantinn to the idee of the piston chambers (Figure 19-7). MAKING THE BACKING DISK On the plywood, draw a circle that matches the ‘turned recens, and cut it out on the sorall saw. Study the working drawing, nating how the slob on the plywood disk relate to the movement af the Piston renters. Using a pencil, rule and compass, mark the [Rosition of the clota Make the slote slightly wider than tha diameter of your plston-canter dowels. Cut the slots gut on tha scroll sew. Tha best way isto drill two holes n each ofthe drawn slote, ane at each fend. Detach the saw blade and passit through the hole, reattach and tension tha blade, then cut out the elot (Figure 10-8), Remember to aril a‘hole thraugh for the crank diskprvot. Fmally, sand all the sav edges to a smoath finish, Doa trial fitting in therecess, sanding unttL everything fits properly. FIGURE 19-7 ‘Spend a geod time sanding all the sawn faces.to a qed smoata. ‘inish, Mako sure that all the edges are stightty rounded — ‘especially the edges of machamber holes, FIGURE 10-8 ‘The best way of establishing the positian of the slots isto draw (tua nape of tha chambers through from tas engine eR. yen. ‘sollow tis courso ef action, you raust put al gament marksem ‘both companonts so that yeu can correctly fit them back together. SDIVALVERADIAL ENGINE 195 ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material MAKING THE PISTONS AND SPACERS With the engine body complete, take the wood you chose for the pistons and check that it's frea from. splits and knots Set the squara waod section in the lathe and turn tt down ta a cylmder with a diametar that is slightly smaller than the width af your piston chambers For prample tf your chambers ara]*/s" wide, then make a, cylindar that's Lor 14" Using dividers make alternate step-oifs?/4" 1" 1/4 Vand so onalong the length of the wood until you ‘hava saven 1” pistons marked (abt you know you naad and ne extra for luck) ‘Mark the wood and the chuck so you know how tt frto:m the lathe Then toke tt off and sea how tha pylinder fite in the chembers (Figure 19-9), Aemountthe workpiece, and turn it dawn tn a good. fit Pert off the pistons by bringing the lesding fare bf tha first piston in Line to 2 good finish, removing the ‘waste so tha piston falls froe, Wind the tallstook cantar in sothet the wood 1s once again supported, face up the next piston, and so om down the line. If all is well, the pistons should be anice fit and stand above the face of the engine ody by about ?/2r' (Figure 10-10). When you have made all the pistons,make the spacer disks in like manner, The anly differance this ‘umes that the diske are about */4" diameter and made sa ‘that they range in multiples of the thickness of the piston. ods, That maans if your piston rods ava 7/2.” thie, then ‘the firet disk neads to be */' thick, the next one twice 3/2 (that would be */2); the next three times */2" (2/2 ‘thenextfour times ¥/ar"(7/«"; andsa on (Figure 19-1), gu Fmally, part the spacers aff as described for the pistons, and drill them through with holes ta match your piston dowels. MAKING THE CRANK DISK Study the workmg drawing and the templates, Note tha zelationstup between the mavemant ef tha Pistons within ther cylmders and how the length of the rods governs the precise position of the crank hole am the prank disk Drew your disk ta size accordingly, suming for aight hut smooth fit, BB ED! VALVE RADIAL ENGINE FIGURE19-0 ‘Tas piston noods tobe stood se that whan At:6:1od 1 stands ‘sughtoy prow of me face of tne engine atsk. FIGURE 19-10 ‘Try ta piston out far size. 11 Mantis eleseand you necd ‘just tha cauambers, then be sare to numaber the pistons and ‘Wocharubors so that they match. FIGURE 19-11 ‘Tue spacors ara vital tot@asmeot ramming of the macking 58 ‘spond tire making sure thot tRoy are alt eorrectiy sized. ‘Commrigiied Materialfrom rough comers and odges. Plane the wood to thickness, and cut the disk out on the scroll saw. Drill two holes—one at the center for the main pivot dowel, the other one about ’/:" out trom center for ‘the crank rod, MAKING THE RODS AND PISTON WASHERS ‘Tako your carofully ealoctod wood—1 chogs plum: Layout the rod dimensions on the wood. They should be about °/." wide and the holes centered about 2/” apart. The exact measurements should come from your specitic parts, FIGURE 19-13 ‘Check the rod for size—mate sure that the pisten docer’t stick in its chamber—moaning when the crank pin is furthest away fram thepiston. Boers size on the scroll saw, then strap them together with masking tape so you have a little bunch. Drill the two holes through all the piocas at once. Use the same thickness af wood for the washers. Cut the washers to size at about /2" diameter, then drill to suit. You need twelve washers in all: six for the front of the machine end six hidden away et the back. ‘Thread the twelve washers on a piece o! wize or ‘toothpick and sane them until they're smooth and crisply rounded. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING Group all the component parts and check them for fit Ee rch 1 may ntpvon to number tre arte ant draw in alignment marks. Wipe on a small amount of teak oil (Figure 19-12). Glue and pin the plywood disk in place in the recess at the back of the engine disk Set the crank disk in place, and then put the six pistons inte their chambers (Figure 19-13), {Ei per on hair oh aa ts Start placing the ton ode (Pus 141845),‘Copyrighted Material PIGUBE10-14 ‘ttmoveds in soqumnco sa text thoy ara paraltol apd aniguod ‘meters of tusengtne inn. Set the tuning handle in placa and tact the movement (Figures 19-16, 19-17), You may have ta aoe the holes abit until the movement is smooth, When you've fitted the rods in an ascending spiral, mark what gues where end how, go Fmally, when you sre sure everything i= properly in place and up end ronning, gus the whole works ‘together. Setths engine disk on ite stand burnish the moving parts witha small ameunt of beaewax tn reduce friction, end the job is done, PROBLEM SOLVING + Tiyan fod the movernent sticking you coo afd a crank ‘Rane atthe hack tne model - a hance tat Lows EBCOUgR, ‘ote cantrat eran aise, + Ttyen!ze unsurebow something works and the companents ‘iste (D220 other, ts @ good Ides a mine @ woridog mode {Ws easy enaogh to make aat desttmp mod} fom carchoam, + me piston ters need tn be made fom 8 dense, beer ‘hardwood ideally ane that bas anally finish + Finding good-qually small-diameter dowels is always @ ‘praplem. [tend to use 2 mix ot coextail sticks, arbecne sticks ‘and kebab seemers, ‘Be SUE ta Wax MOTing parts Before you assemble the ‘macnn, t0 ext dawn om tbe friction. BR ED! VALVE RADIAL ENGINE FIGURE 19-15 |W toyed toaks to be a 1tto shart, ton BoFooGy ts sand tno (Chamber se tnat irs sugntty longer. FIQURE 19-18 ‘Note now ptston number One doesnt need a spacer. FIGURE 19-17 ‘Testout tho fall mowornont betore yout the wate works Hp, ‘and ff the washers to tha onds af the through pistan pins. ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material PROJECT 20 Wheel and Worm Gear Mechanism PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘The wheel and worm gear mechanism ie a device far *“crose-avis movement’—a device for changing the darec- ‘on af the mavemant while at tha same tume changing tha eer ratios In this instance, the epeed of the fast-turning worm gear is converted into a slow-tuming wheel. If you really enjoy techno-babble, worm gears provide the stm- ‘Blast maans of cibtaning larga ratios na single pasr. Such mechanisms are used when the axes for transmitting i motion are not in the same plane Just in case youre more ‘8 sculptor-woadworker than a mechanical engineer, whet a t ‘htemanne is that the ecrew scams around while tha wheal reaps, Its a fascinsting mechanism to watch in action. It 4s beautiful, almost hypnotic. PROJECT OVERVIEW Study the project picture (right), the working drawing (Figure 20-2A) and the templates (Figure 20-25), For the most part, this project thas to dowith careful layout precise wark on the scroll sew and paimetking whittling, Note how the mecha- mug is mada up of two primary parts: thalange wheel with sll the teeth, snd the tumed cylinder or shaft with tha perved worm In action, the crank handle turns easily i one duection while the wheel slowly turns im snothar, ‘While the burlding steps ara all pretty eacy, 1's fair to say ‘that cutting the warm takes allot of finicky patience, That bald, thiste one of those beautiful, icy projects that—onca ‘the basic sawing and turing are out of the way—cen he quietly worked on cut on the porch or in the garden. WHEEL AND WORMGEAR MECHANISM 180) ‘Commrigiied MaterialWHEEL AND WORM GEAR MECHANISM 480 WHEEL AND WORM GEAR MECHANISMWHEEL AND WORM GEAR MECHANISM WORKING DRAWING iu yi ea (buen nl Tt oi : ai yi ap FAONT VIEW ‘Top VIEW SIE VIEW FIGURE 20-20 ‘A Backboard. B Base board © ‘Tootnes wheel D wormarve Bearing toss. © Disk spacer 1 Diive shatt enc-stop disk, ID WORMGEAR MECHANISM aaa‘Copyrighted Material WHEEL AND WORM GEAR MECHANISM TEMPLATES FIGURE 20-25 Drive shaft end-stop dia ‘Copsrighied MatetialCHOOSING YOUR wooD ‘When choosing your wood, remember: the wheel must be strong across the run of the grain so it can be sawn and pared without crumbling, and the worm must be both easy to turn and easy to carve, Taking these considerations into account, and having first dug inta my mountain of scrap pisces, I opted ta use cal for the wheel, tulip for the back and base boards, plum for the bearing lugs, lime for the worm and whatever happened to fall to hand for the other parts, FIGURE 20-3 ‘Using a combination plane is « great swift and easy way of cutting the housing channel. Note the setup that allows the plane fence to run clear of the edge ofthe hench. FIGURE 20-4 ‘Make sure that the boards are. Aight St and at right angles to onch other. MAKING THE BACK AND BASE BOARDS Study the working drawings (Figures 20-24 and B) ‘90 you understand how the project needs to be ‘worked and put together. Plane your wood for the hack and base board down toa finished thickness of °/:” Use a compassto draw the 7"-dlameter circle to hake the base and the half-circle that goesto make the backboard. Complete the design with «rule and ‘square. Cut the backboard out on your scroll saw. Use the toois of your chnice to run the */:"-wide housing channel across the base.I used an ald. combination plane (Figure 20-3), but you could just as, ‘well use a saw and chisel ora router, ‘Work the channel until it takes the hackboard for a nice tight push fit (Figure 20-4). When you're happy ‘with the joint, cut mie base isk out on the scroll saw. MAKING THE WHEEL Having planed your chosen wood toa finished thickness of °/." and drawn and cut out the S"- diameter blank, use 4 protractor, square and compass to, lay out the design of the teeth. Lay out a 5'/:" circle on the 6"-diameter blank, then divide the circle into 84 equal segments, Mark the intersection of every other point. You should end up with 32 center points about °/." in from the circumference of the blank, WHEEL AND WORM GEAR MEEHANISM 198,When you are satistied with the arrangement of the teeth, use a compass to lay out the position of the various holes that make up the decorative design. ‘Move to the drill press and drilla ‘/:"-diameter hele through every other intersection, so you have alternating Noles and spaces manning around the clicle— a total of 92 holes and 92 spaces, Using the holes and the guidelines as an aid, éraw out the shape of the teeth using a pencil and rule. ‘When you'te sureall is correct, move ta the scroll sav and very carefully cut out the shape of the testh (Fgure 20-5). For me, the best procedure was to work each tooth in tuzn—two straight cuts in toward the center point of each hole. whan you've cut out the basic profile, takea razor sharp Imifo (or you may profor a chisal) and pare the teath to a slightly rounded finish (Figure 20-6). 3 watchfulthat you don't cut directly into end grain. Finally, put the wheel ona rod, and see how it looks trom various angles and when it’s turing (Agure 20-7). MAKING THE WORM ‘Make sure your square section length of wood Is ree from splits and avkwardly placed knots. Look ‘especially for end splits that darken es they run up the length of the grain. If yau have any doubte at all, eject the ‘wood and find anather piece. ‘Mount the wood on the lathe, and use gouge to swiftly turn it down to a I°/s"-diameter cylinder. ‘Keeping in mind thet it's important the turning be crisp and smooth, switch to the skew chisel and skim the cylinder down to a finished size of 1/7. Use a ruleand the point of the skew chiselto lay out the central etepped area on the cylinder. I divided, ‘tha Iength of the wood in half and put the 2/-"-long step-up at the center. Use the gougeto turn the wood at each side of the central step-up toa finished diameter of about */~ ‘You should finish with the shaft /” in diameter to each side of center, and the central area 1'/" in diameterand ae" long (Figure 20-8} Je WHEEL AND WORM GEAR MECHANISM FIGURE 20-5, ‘Weimportant that the cuts are clean and at right angles tothe {face of the wood. 1's a good idan to it anew blade, adjust the ‘tension and make sure that the table fs eat at 90° te the blade, FIGURE 20-6 ‘Bo sure, when you are tidying up with the knifecor chisel, that the ‘workpiece ie arrangad co that you ara cutting with the grain. 18 ‘a geod dea to workon s smooth surface or a werk board. te FIGURE 20-7 ‘Make yourself «jigso that you cantest out the movement. All ‘younoed is a vertical surface with a pivot holo—the odge of the ‘bench, a piece of waste. anything will do,‘Copyrighted Material Study the working drawings (Figure 20-2A) and the templates (Figure 20-28), then usaa combination EquEre With a protractor head (or asimilar tool) ta lay aut ‘the angle of the worm (Figure 20-0) Although ttlooke & ttle complicated, the point to remember is that the ‘windings of the worm as they Wrap sround tha heft must ‘he gpaced co that thay fallnaturally between the taath of ‘the wheel. If the tanth W-section centers are about ?/s" spart, then the top pesks of the wormalsa need to be about Vi" apart, With the guidelines in place, take asharp knife end Tim a stop-cut armund the cylinder, centerad between FIGURE 20-10 ‘the worm peaks, Rapeatedy un andra ebieds tn the Vsurrow sa asta cat a ‘stupcat guns for subsequent cats, ‘Make tha stop-out ta a depth of /e',than-make shomgeuts atan angle at each side soyou have a V-section furrow running arqund the wood (Figure 20-10). ‘The-band at the top of the wonn should be shout '/e" wide, Continue in this way, repeatedly malang the stop-cut deeper, slicing down at each side mta the stop-cur at ‘an angle until you've created the characteristic worm, uofila (Figure 20-1), ‘yy out the wheelan a jig. turing tha warm over by ‘band eo the wheel makes a full revalution without ppuicling. Use fime-grade sandpaper toruh the whole worm down untlit's smooth, FIGURE 20-11 ‘Ramave te waste by sliding the Made down at an angie inte ‘ma stop-eat. Do your best to hoep tha*/."-wido band at the top of the peak WHEEL AND WORMCEAR MECHANISM 105 ‘Commrigiied MaterialPIGUREZO-12 (Cheek ta camponamnts gut or proMems—espectally the worm \driva.and tuo Woe I's vital Mata the tookn axe tatact—no ‘spits or kata, ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING Lay outall the component parts (Figure 20-12) end check them over for potential problems. Make sure ‘that the whael ts frearom splite, with ellths teeth mtsct, ‘and the worm drive is as near parfact. as you can make 1t. Don't worry at this stage shout the final finishing of the other parte. much moze important tomeke sure the movement 1s going ta wark properly. Set the whee] in plase onthe hackhoard (the assembly sequence te backboard, spacer disk and wheel) with the dawel pivot ‘Pushed through trom the front (Figure 20-13), Set one lug bearing in place, then slide the warm ‘drive shaft through tha bearing sa the worm is aligned in the tooth of the whael. Then fit the ether tag: hearing (Pigure 20-14}, 196 WHEEL AND WORM GEAR MECHANISM FIGURE 20-19 at a Lator staga, ie dowel can be fitted by bemny eress-