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“Do we leave at once, huh? Are we going “What is this Amada? Why are you still in bed
now?” at this hour? And in such a posture! Come,
get up at once. You should be ashamed!”
“Hush, hush I implore you! Now look: your
father has a headache, and so have I. So be But the woman on the bed merely stared. Her
quiet this instant—or no one goes to sweat-beaded brows contracted, as if in an
Grandfather.” effort to understand. Then her face relax her
mouth sagged open humorously and, rolling
over on her back and spreading out her big
Though it was only seven by the clock the
soft arms and legs, she began noiselessly
house was already a furnace, the windows
quaking with laughter—the mute mirth
dilating with the harsh light and the air
jerking in her throat; the moist pile of her
already burning with the immense, intense
flesh quivering like brown jelly. Saliva
fever of noon.
dribbled from the corners of her mouth.
She found the children’s nurse working in the
Doña Lupeng blushed, looking around
kitchen. “And why is it you who are preparing
helplessly, and seeing that Entoy had
breakfast? Where is Amada?” But without
followed and was leaning in the doorway,
waiting for an answer she went to the
watching stolidly, she blushed again. The
backdoor and opened it, and the screaming
room reeked hotly of intimate odors. She
in her ears became wild screaming in the
averted her eyes from the laughing woman
stables across the yard. “Oh my God!” she
on the bed, in whose nakedness she seemed
groaned and, grasping her skirts, hurried
so to participate that she was ashamed to
across the yard.
look directly at the man in the doorway.
In the stables Entoy, the driver, apparently
“Tell me, Entoy: has she had been to the
deaf to the screams, was hitching the pair of
Tadtarin?”
piebald ponies to the coach.
“Yes, señora. Last night.”
“Not the closed coach, Entoy! The open
carriage!” shouted Doña Lupeng as she came
up. “But I forbade her to go! And I forbade you to
let her go!”
“I could do nothing.” swaying carriage, propping one hand on her
husband’s shoulder wile the other she held
“Why, you beat her at the least pretext!” up her silk parasol.
“But now I dare not touch her.” And “Here come the men with their St.
John!” cried voices up and down the
“Oh, and why not?” countryside. People in wet clothes dripping
with well-water, ditch-water and river-water
“It is the day of St. John: the spirit is in her.” came running across the hot woods and
fields and meadows, brandishing cans of
water, wetting each other uproariously, and
“But, man—”
shouting San Juan! San Juan!as they ran to
meet the procession.
“It is true, señora. The spirit is in her. She is
the Tadtarin. She must do as she pleases.
Up the road, stirring a cloud of dust, and
Otherwise, the grain would not grow, the
gaily bedrenched by the crowds gathered
trees would bear no fruit, the rivers would
along the wayside, a concourse of young men
give no fish, and the animals would die.”
clad only in soggy trousers were carrying
aloft an image of the Precursor. Their teeth
“Naku, I did no know your wife was so flashed white in their laughing faces and
powerful, Entoy.” their hot bodies glowed crimson as they
pranced past, shrouded in fiery dust, singing
“At such times she is not my wife: she is the and shouting and waving their arms: the St.
wife of the river, she is the wife of the John riding swiftly above the sea of dark
crocodile, she is the wife of the moon.” heads and glittering in the noon sun—a fine,
blonde, heroic St. John: very male, very
“BUT HOW CAN they still believe such arrogant: the Lord of Summer indeed; the
things?” demanded Doña Lupeng of her Lord of Light and Heat—erect and godly
husband as they drove in the open carriage virile above the prone and female earth—
through the pastoral countryside that was while the worshippers danced and the dust
the arrabal of Paco in the 1850’s. thickened and the animals reared and roared
and the merciless fires came raining down
Don Paeng darted a sidelong glance at his form the skies—the relentlessly upon field
wife, by which he intimated that the subject and river and town and winding road, and
was not a proper one for the children, who upon the joyous throng of young men against
were sitting opposite, facing their parents. whose uproar a couple of seminarians in
muddy cassocks vainly intoned the hymn of
Don Paeng, drowsily stroking his the noon god:
moustaches, his eyes closed against the hot
light, merely shrugged. That we, thy servants, in chorus
“And you should have seen that Entoy,” May praise thee, our tongues restore us…
continued his wife. “You know how the brute
treats her: she cannot say a word but he But Doña Lupeng, standing in the stopped
thrashes her. But this morning he stood as carriage, looking very young and elegant in
meek as a lamb while she screamed and her white frock, under the twirling parasol,
screamed. He seemed actually in awe of her, stared down on the passing male horde with
do you know—actually afraid of her!” increasing annoyance. The insolent man-
smell of their bodies rose all about her—wave
“Oh, look, boys—here comes the St. John!” upon wave of it—enveloping her, assaulting
cried Doña Lupeng, and she sprang up in the her senses, till she felt faint with it and
pressed a handkerchief to her nose. And as “And did you see our young cousin Guido?”
she glanced at her husband and saw with he asked.
what a smug smile he was watching the
revelers, her annoyance deepened. When he “Oh, was he in that crowd?”
bade her sit down because all eyes were
turned on her, she pretended not to hear; “A European education does not seem to
stood up even straighter, as if to defy those have spoiled his taste for country pleasures.”
rude creatures flaunting their manhood in “I did not see him.” “He waved and waved.”
the sun.
“The poor boy. He will feel hurt. But truly,
And she wondered peevishly what the Paeng. I did not see him.” “Well, that is
braggarts were being so cocky about? For this always a woman’s privilege.”
arrogance, this pride, this bluff male health
of theirs was (she told herself) founded on BUT WHEN THAT afternoon, at the
the impregnable virtue of generations of grandfather’s, the young Guido presented
good women. The boobies were so sure of himself, properly attired and brushed and
themselves because they had always been scented, Doña Lupeng was so charming and
sure of their wives. “All the sisters being gracious with him that he was enchanted and
virtuous, all the brothers are brave,” gazed after her all afternoon with enamored
thought Doña Lupeng, with a bitterness that eyes.
rather surprised her. Women had built it up:
this poise of the male. Ah, and women could
This was the time when our young men were
destroy it, too! She recalled, vindictively, this
all going to Europe and bringing back with
morning’s scene at the stables: Amada naked
them, not the Age of Victoria, but the Age of
and screaming in bed whiled from the
Byron. The young Guido knew nothing of
doorway her lord and master looked on in
Darwin and evolution; he knew everything
meek silence. And was it not the mystery of a
about Napoleon and the Revolution. When
woman in her flowers that had restored the
Doña Lupeng expressed surprise at his
tongue of that old Hebrew prophet?
presence that morning in the St. John’s
crowd, he laughed in her face.
“Look, Lupeng, they have all passed now,”
Don Paeng was saying, “Do you mean to
“But I adore these old fiestas of ours! They
stand all the way?”
are so romantic! Last night, do you know, we
walked all the way through the woods, I and
She looked around in surprise and hastily sat some boys, to see the procession of the
down. The children tittered, and the carriage Tadtarin.”
started.
“And was that romantic too?” asked Doña
“Has the heat gone to your head, woman?” Lupeng.
asked Don Paeng, smiling. The children
burst frankly into laughter.
“It was weird. It made my flesh crawl. All
those women in such a mystic frenzy! And
Their mother colored and hung her head. She she who was the Tadtarin last night—she was
was beginning to feel ashamed of the a figure right out of a flamenco!”
thoughts that had filled her mind. They
seemed improper—almost obscene—and the
“I fear to disenchant you, Guido—but that
discovery of such depths of wickedness in
woman happens to be our cook.”
herself appalled her. She moved closer to her
husband to share the parasol with him.
“She is beautiful.”
“Our Amada beautiful? But she is old and my arm, like a glove. How your husband
fat!” would have despised me!”
“She is beautiful—as that old tree you are “But what on earth does it mean?”
leaning on is beautiful,” calmly insisted the
young man, mocking her with his eyes. “I think it is to remind us men that once upon
a time you women were supreme and we men
They were out in the buzzing orchard, among were the slaves.”
the ripe mangoes; Doña Lupeng seated on
the grass, her legs tucked beneath her, and “But surely there have always been kings?”
the young man sprawled flat on his belly,
gazing up at her, his face moist with sweat. “Oh, no. The queen came before the king, and
The children were chasing dragonflies. The the priestess before the priest, and the moon
sun stood still in the west. The long day before the sun.”
refused to end. From the house came the
sudden roaring laughter of the men playing “The moon?”
cards.
“—who is the Lord of the women.”
“Beautiful! Romantic! Adorable! Are those
the only words you learned in Europe?” cried
“Why?”
Doña Lupeng, feeling very annoyed with this
young man whose eyes adored her one
moment and mocked her the next. “Because the tides of women, like the tides of
the sea, are tides of the moon. Because the
first blood -But what is the matter, Lupe? Oh,
“Ah, I also learned to open my eyes over
have I offended you?”
there—to see the holiness and the mystery of
what is vulgar.”
“Is this how they talk to decent women in
Europe?”
“And what is so holy and mysterious about—
about the Tadtarin, for instance?”
“They do not talk to women, they pray to
them—as men did in the dawn of the world.”
“I do not know. I can only feel it. And
it frightens me. Those rituals come to us
from the earliest dawn of the world. And the “Oh, you are mad! mad!”
dominant figure is not the male but the
female.” “Why are you so afraid, Lupe?”
“But they are in honor of St. John.” “I afraid? And of whom? My dear boy, you
still have your mother’s milk in your mouth.
“What has your St. John to do with them? I only wish you to remember that I am a
Those women worship a more ancient lord. married woman.”
Why, do you know that no man may join
those rites unless he first puts on some article “I remember that you are a woman, yes. A
of women’s apparel and—” beautiful woman. And why not? Did you turn
into some dreadful monster when you
“And what did you put on, Guido?” married? Did you stop being a woman? Did
you stop being beautiful? Then why should
my eyes not tell you what you are—just
“How sharp you are! Oh, I made such love to
because you are married?”
a toothless old hag there that she pulled off
her stocking for me. And I pulled it on, over
“Ah, this is too much now!” cried Doña He frowned and made a gesture of distaste.
Lupeng, and she rose to her feet. “Do you see? They have the instincts, the
style of the canalla! To kiss a woman’s feet,
“Do not go, I implore you! Have pity on me!” to follow her like a dog, to adore her like a
slave -“
“No more of your comedy, Guido! And
besides—where have those children gone to! “Is it so shameful for a man to adore
I must go after them.” women?”
As she lifted her skirts to walk away, the “A gentleman loves and respects Woman.
young man, propping up his elbows, dragged The cads and lunatics—they ‘adore’ the
himself forward on the ground and solemnly women.”
kissed the tips of her shoes. She stared down
in sudden horror, transfixed—and he felt her “But maybe we do not want to be loved and
violent shudder. She backed away slowly, respected—but to be adored.”
still staring; then turned and fled toward the
house. But when they reached home she did not lie
down but wandered listlessly through the
ON THE WAY home that evening Don Paeng empty house. When Don Paeng, having
noticed that his wife was in a mood. They bathed and changed, came down from the
were alone in the carriage: the children were bedroom, he found her in the dark parlour
staying overnight at their grandfather’s. The seated at the harp and plucking out a tune,
heat had not subsided. It was heat without still in her white frock and shoes.
gradations: that knew no twilights and no
dawns; that was still there, after the sun had “How can you bear those hot clothes,
set; that would be there already, before the Lupeng? And why the darkness? Order
sun had risen. someone to bring light in here.”
“Has young Guido been annoying you?” “There is no one, they have all gone to see the
asked Don Paeng. Tadtarin.”
“These young men today—what a disgrace She had risen and gone to the window. He
they are! I felt embarrassed as a man to see approached and stood behind her, grasped
him following you about with those eyes of a her elbows and, stooping, kissed the nape of
whipped dog.” her neck. But she stood still, not responding,
and he released her sulkily. She turned
She glanced at him coldly. “And was that all around to face him.
you felt, Paeng? embarrassed—as a man?”
“Listen, Paeng. I want to see it, too. The
“A good husband has constant confidence in Tadtarin, I mean. I have not seen it since I
the good sense of his wife,” he pronounced was a little girl. And tonight is the last night.”
grandly, and smiled at her.
“You must be crazy! Only low people go
But she drew away; huddled herself in the there. And I thought you had a headache?”
other corner. “He kissed my feet,” she told He was still sulking.
him disdainfully, her eyes on his face.
“But I want to go! My head aches worse in the
house. For a favor, Paeng.”
“I told you: No! go and take those clothes off. seemed the nerves of the tortured air made
But, woman, whatever has got into you!” he visible.
strode off to the table, opened the box of
cigars, took one, banged the lid shut, bit off “Here they come now!” cried the people on
an end of the cigar, and glared about for a the balconies.
light.
And “Here come the women with their St.
She was still standing by the window and her John!” cried the people on the sidewalks,
chin was up. surging forth on the street. The carriages
halted and their occupants descended. The
“Very well, if you do want to come, do not plaza rang with the shouts of people and the
come—but I am going.” neighing of horses—and with another keener
sound: a sound as of sea-waves steadily
“I warn you, Lupe; do not provoke me!” rolling nearer.
“I will go with Amada. Entoy can take us. You The crowd parted, and up the street came the
cannot forbid me, Paeng. There is nothing prancing, screaming, writhing women, their
wrong with it. I am not a child.” eyes wild, black shawls flying around their
shoulders, and their long hair streaming and
But standing very straight in her white frock, covered with leaves and flowers. But the
her eyes shining in the dark and her chin Tadtarin, a small old woman with white hair,
thrust up, she looked so young, so fragile, walked with calm dignity in the midst of the
that his heart was touched. He sighed, smiled female tumult, a wand in one hand, a bunch
ruefully, and shrugged his shoulders. of seedling in the other. Behind her, a group
of girls bore aloft a little black image of the
“Yes, the heat ahs touched you in the head, Baptist—a crude, primitive, grotesque image,
Lupeng. And since you are so set on it—very its big-eyed head too big for its puny naked
well, let us go. Come, have the coach torso, bobbing and swaying above the
ordered!” hysterical female horde and looking at once
so comical and so pathetic that Don Paeng,
watching with his wife on the sidewalk, was
THE CULT OF the Tadtarin is celebrated on
outraged. The image seemed to be crying for
three days: the feast of St. John and the two
help, to be struggling to escape—a St. John
preceding days. On the first night, a young
indeed in the hands of the Herodias; a
girl heads the procession; on the second, a
doomed captive these witches were
mature woman; and on the third, a very old
subjecting first to their derision; a gross and
woman who dies and comes to life again. In
brutal caricature of his sex.
these processions, as in those of Pakil and
Obando, everyone dances.
Don Paeng flushed hotly: he felt that all those
women had personally insulted him. He
Around the tiny plaza in front of the barrio
turned to his wife, to take her away—but she
chapel, quite a stream of carriages was
was watching greedily, taut and breathless,
flowing leisurely. The Moretas were
her head thrust forward and her eyes
constantly being hailed from the other
bulging, the teeth bared in the slack mouth,
vehicles. The plaza itself and the sidewalks
and the sweat gleaning on her face. Don
were filled with chattering, strolling,
Paeng was horrified. He grasped her arm—
profusely sweating people. More people were
but just then a flash of lightning blazed and
crowded on the balconies and windows of the
the screaming women fell silent: the Tadtarin
houses. The moon had not yet risen; the
was about to die.
black night smoldered; in the windless sky
the lightning’s abruptly branching fire
The old woman closed her eyes and bowed towards the chapel. He followed her,
her head and sank slowly to her knees. A shouting; she eluded him, laughing—and
pallet was brought and set on the ground and through the thick of the female horde they
she was laid in it and her face covered with a lost and found and lost each other again—
shroud. Her hands still clutched the wand she, dancing and he pursuing—till, carried
and the seedlings. The women drew away, along by the tide, they were both swallowed
leaving her in a cleared space. They covered up into the hot, packed, turbulent darkness
their heads with their black shawls and began of the chapel. Inside poured the entire
wailing softly, unhumanly—a hushed, animal procession, and Don Paeng, finding himself
keening. trapped tight among milling female bodies,
struggled with sudden panic to fight his way
Overhead the sky was brightening, silver out. Angry voices rose all about him in the
light defined the rooftops. When the moon stifling darkness.
rose and flooded with hot brilliance the
moveless crowded square, the black-shawled “Hoy you are crushing my feet!”
women stopped wailing and a girl
approached and unshrouded the Tadtarin, “And let go of my shawl, my shawl!”
who opened her eyes and sat up, her face
lifted to the moonlight. She rose to her feet “Stop pushing, shameless one, or I kick you!”
and extended the wand and the seedlings and
the women joined in a mighty shout. They “Let me pass, let me pass, you harlots!” cried
pulled off and waved their shawls and Don Paeng.
whirled and began dancing again—laughing
and dancing with such joyous exciting
“Abah, it is a man!”
abandon that the people in the square and on
the sidewalk, and even those on the
balconies, were soon laughing and dancing, “How dare he come in here?”
too. Girls broke away from their parents and
wives from their husbands to join in the orgy. “Break his head!”
“Come, let us go now,” said Don Paeng to his “Throw the animal out!”
wife. She was shaking with fascination; tears
trembled on her lashes; but she nodded “Throw him out! Throw him out!” shrieked
meekly and allowed herself to be led away. the voices, and Don Paeng found himself
But suddenly she pulled free from his grasp, surrounded by a swarm of gleaming eyes.
darted off, and ran into the crowd of dancing
women. Terror possessed him and he struck out
savagely with both fists, with all his
She flung her hands to her hair and whirled strength—but they closed in as savagely:
and her hair came undone. Then, planting solid walls of flesh that crushed upon him
her arms akimbo, she began to trip a nimble and pinned his arms helpless, while unseen
measure, an indistinctive folk-movement. hands struck and struck his face, and ravaged
She tossed her head back and her arched his hair and clothes, and clawed at his flesh,
throat bloomed whitely. Her eyes brimmed as—kicked and buffeted, his eyes blind and
with moonlight, and her mouth with his torn mouth salty with blood—he was
laughter. pushed down, down to his knees, and half-
shoved, half-dragged to the doorway and
Don Paeng ran after her, shouting her name, rolled out to the street. He picked himself up
but she laughed and shook her head and at once and walked away with a dignity that
darted deeper into the dense maze of forbade the crowd gathered outside to laugh
procession, which was moving again, or to pity. Entoy came running to meet him.
“But what has happened to you, Don Paeng?” His shoulders sagged and his face dulled. “If
you can think that of me -“
“Nothing. Where is the coach?”
“You could think me a lewd woman!”
“Just over there, sir. But you are wounded in
the face!” “Oh, how do I know what to think of you? I
was sure I knew you as I knew myself. But
“No, these are only scratches. Go and get the now you are as distant and strange to me as
sehora. We are going home.” a female Turk in Africa.”
When she entered the coach and saw his “Yet you would dare whip me -“
bruised face and torn clothing, she smiled
coolly. “Because I love you, because I respect you.”
“What a sight you are, man! What have you “And because if you ceased to respect me you
done with yourself?” would cease to respect yourself?”
And when he did not answer: “Why, have “Ah, I did not say that!”
they pulled out his tongue too?” she
wondered aloud. “Then why not say it? It is true. And you want
to say it, you want to say it!”
AND WHEN THEY are home and stood
facing each other in the bedroom, she was But he struggled against her power. “Why
still as light-hearted. should I want to?” he demanded peevishly.
“What are you going to do, Rafael?” “Because, either you must say it—or you
must whip me,” she taunted.
“I am going to give you a whipping.”
Her eyes were upon him and the shameful
“But why?” fear that had unmanned him in the dark
chapel possessed him again. His legs had
“Because you have behaved tonight like a turned to water; it was a monstrous agony to
lewd woman.” remain standing.
“How I behaved tonight is what I am. If you But she was waiting for him to speak, forcing
call that lewd, then I was always a lewd him to speak.
woman and a whipping will not change me—
though you whipped me till I died.” “No, I cannot whip you!” he confessed
miserably.
“I want this madness to die in you.”
“Then say it! Say it!” she cried, pounding her
“No, you want me to pay for your bruises.” clenched fists together. “Why suffer and
suffer? And in the end you would only
He flushed darkly. “How can you say that, submit.”
Lupe?”
But he still struggled stubbornly. “Is it not
“Because it is true. You have been whipped enough that you have me helpless? Is it not
by the women and now you think to avenge enough that I feel what you want me feel?”
yourself by whipping me.”
But she shook her head furiously. “Until you
have said to me, there can be no peace
between us.”
Located in front of the NFA Warehouse To fully appreciate the history and
along the side of the National Highway significance of the building, as well as
leading to Davao, the mansion was one feel the regret for having allowed it to
of the city’s most distinct landmarks. It collapse, I will discuss the illustrious
was a fusion of Maranao and western life of its designer and former
architecture: a Torogan made of cement inhabitant. (I was able to get a brief
with Roman Pillars. It was dominated though highly insightful interview from
by the Maranawon floral motif called Mr. Marinius Austria, otherwise known
okir, more commonly seen in malongs. as Prince Faisal Kiram, son and heir of
This motif, which came in the form of the late Sultan Omar.)
the floral patterns in the mouldings as
well as the solar patterns adorning the
walls was most highlighted in the The life of the Sultan,
porch. The mansion’s porch, which as manong Marinius tells, is
faced the National Highway, was spectacularly adventurous. It is the
adorned with two story of a prince torn away from his
perpendicular panolongs, ornate eaves heritage but brought back to it again by
characteristic of the Torogan, on each fate.
corner. The panolong is reminiscent of
When the Philippine-American war After the war, President Magsaysay
broke out, Bai Saumay Ampaso made him part of the government,
Mindalano, wife of Sultan Omar Kiram particularly as translator for
I, Uyaan sultan of Oyanan in Lanao del negotiations with Moro rebel groups.
Sur, feared for the life of her son and
husband’s heir, the seven-year-old In April 19, 1955, an earthquake struck
Omar. She thus instructed the prince’s Lanao. The worst area hit was the
governess, Ishraida, to flee to Dansalan village of Uyaan. President Magsaysay,
(now Marawi) with the boy. But the who recognized Vicente’s fluency in
prince was lost in the trip, kidnapped the Maranao tongue, sent him to give
by Moro collaborators, and was relief aid.
unknowingly brought to Dansalan to be
sold as a slave. An American-Ilocano
soldier, Gil Austria, bought him for Uyaan was notoriously reclusive,
twenty-two pesos and named him owing to the tragedy its royal family
Vicente. had faced during the wars. Entrance
into it was highly restricted. It was no
surprise then that when Vicente and his
Vicente would be raised a Christian. entourage came, they were nearly
But all the while, he could speak killed. The execution was postponed,
Maranao fluently, and he did not know owing to him being a government
why. official.