InternationalLiving.com September 2019 Vol.40 No.

INTERNATIONAL

LIVING SINCE 1979

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

page 18
The Coffee
Triangle: Latin
America’s Best-
Value Highland
Region
page 7
A Wedding, an
Island, and an
Accidental Expat in
Corfu, Greece
page 12
A Skeptic Tries
Alternative
Healing in
Chiang Mai
page 28
Arts, Crafts, and
Tasty Treats in
Dingle, Ireland
PLUS
GLOBETROTTER
INCOME OVERSEAS
EXPAT STORIES
UPCOMING EVENTS
EXPLORATION
CLASSIFIEDS
 from the editor

Ditch the Rat Race For Tranquil, Affordable,

Small-Town Living Overseas
“ There may be no secrets in small towns,
but there are no strangers either,”—this
from a book by R.A. Mathis. In an era
when so many people feel the effects of
loneliness and isolation, it’s a truth that
holds appeal.
If the overseas retirement you imagine includes an
escape from the rat race, a slower pace, and a greater
connection to community, small towns around the world
can provide just that. Plus, it’s generally cheaper to live in
small towns than in big cities. It’s easier to make friends
with both expats and locals…because no one is a stranger.
And life is much less stressful as everything moves at a
slower pace. In your issue this month, we’ve got some
great small-town options for you to consider.
In this month’s cover story, IL Roving Latin America
Editor Jason Holland explores the place he says is “one
of the most affordable highland destinations in Latin
America”—Colombia’s Coffee Triangle (p.18). This area
offers plenty of options for city living but you can also
experience small-town living here. Expat Lou Nesbitt
says of his adopted town of Armenia, “It’s peaceful…
laidback. It’s a very walkable city in the center. People are
very friendly and ready to help.” And a couple can live
comfortably on $1,500 to $2,000 a month, if not less. Over
in Panama, the small beach town of Coronado is just an
hour’s drive from the bright lights of Panama City, but
provides expats lots of small-town perks. Judy and Andy
Whaling started a new life there when they realized they
couldn’t afford a retirement in California (p.14). Today,
they are enjoying an affordable beach lifestyle and are part
of the active, well-organized expat community. “Golfers
meet new people on and off the course,” Judy says. They
are also part of a church group, which helped them meet
people and get involved in the many activities on offer.
All along the Mediterranean coast, you’ll find small
beach towns. And this month we visit one of the best of
them in Dénia, Spain (p.16)—where you can rent a two-
bedroom apartment for $675 a month. And IL Cuenca
Correspondent Donna Stiteler goes house hunting in
Cotacachi, Ecuador’s friendliest small town (p.8). As one
expat there told her, “It’s a small town. People come here
for what’s not here. There’s no drugs, no traffic jams, no
crime, no rushing around.”
Is small town living for you? Read on to find out…
Nazareen Heazle, Editorial Director

At International Living, our IL IN-COUNTRY Nancy Kiernan Nanette Witmer

network of on-the-ground CORRESPONDENTS Medellín, Colombia Chiriquí, Panama
experts spans the globe. Colombia@internationalliving.com Chiriqui@internationalliving.com
John Michael Arthur Steve LePoidevin
Central Valley, Costa Rica Huanchaco, Peru
Centralvalley@internationalliving.com Peru@internationalliving.com Find More Online
Laura Diffendal Don Murray As an International Living
OUR EDITORS Placencia, Belize Riviera Maya, Mexico
OVERSEAS subscriber, you have free
Belize@internationalliving.com Rivieramaya@internationalliving.com access to our full online
Kathleen Evans Tricia Pimental story archive. Log in today
Suzan Haskins Tamarindo, Costa Rica Beira Baixa, Portugal at Internationalliving.com
Shaskins@internationalliving.com Costarica@internationalliving.com Portugal@internationalliving.com
Dan Prescher Keith Hockton Valerie Fortney-Schneider Please note that, as of the
Dprescher@internationalliving.com Penang, Malaysia Basilicata, Italy July 2019 issue, all prices
Jessica Ramesch Asia@internationalliving.com Italy@internationalliving.com quoted in International Liv-
Jramesch@internationalliving.com Wendy Justice Donna Stiteler ing are given in U.S. dollars.
Jason Holland Hanoi, Vietnam Cuenca, Ecuador
Jholland@internationalliving.com Southeastasia@internationalliving.com Cuenca@internationalliving.com
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
1
September 2019 contents
Volume 40
Number 5
1 FROM THE EDITOR
Founding Publisher Ditch the rat race for tranquil, affordable, small-town living overseas
William Bonner 3 SAVVY TRAVELER
Publisher This deserted island off Naples must be empty for a reason
Jackie Flynn
4 GLOBETROTTER
Executive Editor
Jennifer Stevens Dracula orchids in Panama
Editorial Director 6 LIFESTYLE—GREECE
Nazareen Heazle A wedding, an island, and an accidental expat in Corfu
Managing Editor
7 LIFESTYLE—SOUTH KOREA
Seán Keenan
An adventurous Jersey girl finds her ideal retirement
Designer
Derek Westwood 8 REAL ESTATE
Photo Editor House hunting in Ecuador’s friendliest small town
Hugo Ghiara 10 LIVING THE DREAM
Copy Editor Trading a city life for a small-town retirement abroad
Jason Holland
Online Editors 12 HEALTHCARE
Edel O’Gorman A skeptic tries alternative healing in Chiang Mai
Donal Lucey 14 LIFESTYLE
Illustrator A California beach lifestyle for less in Coronado
Colleen Clapp
Advertising 16 EXPLORATION
Helen Daly A beach town for food lovers on Spain’s Mediterranean
Advertising@internationalliving.com 18 COVER STORY
Media Inquiries Colombia’s Coffee Triangle: Latin America’s best-value highlands region
Marita Kelly
Mkelly@internationalliving.com 22 MARKET WATCH
+001 667 312 3532 The D.E.A.L. system: Four steps to real estate profits
24 INCOME OVERSEAS
Teaching and biking in beautiful Da Nang, Vietnam
25 EXPAT DIARY
International Living (ISSN 0277-2442),
© Copyright 2019 by International Living
White beaches and swaying palms: A day off in Belize
Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. Protected
by copyright laws of the United States and 26 TRAVEL
international treaties. This magazine may
only be used pursuant to the subscription
Explore the Seychelles’ three best islands on a budget
agreement and any reproduction, copying,
or redistribution (electronic or otherwise,
27 TRAVEL
including on the world wide web), in whole Puerto Vallarta, Mexico: A wine lover’s wonderland
or in part, is strictly prohibited without the
express written permission of International 28 TRAVEL
Living Publishing Ltd., Woodlock House,
Carrick Road, Portlaw, Co. Waterford, Ireland. Arts, crafts, and tasty treats in Dingle, Ireland
International Living is published monthly.
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for one year, in Canada C$89 for one year,
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Postmaster: Send address changes to 33 GLOBAL PROPERTY NOTES
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Living among nature in jungle homes
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Copies of this magazine are not available
35 THE LAST WORD
on newsstands but are furnished directly I think my 20-year-old self would admire me
to the public by mail subscriptions only.
International Living presents information CALENDAR OF EVENTS
and research believed to be reliable, but its
accuracy cannot be guaranteed. There are
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Stop dreaming about your perfect retirement
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INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019

2

This Deserted Island Off Naples
Must Be Empty for a Reason
I t looks like a magical isle,
an ideal getaway of the
rich. Set off the coast of
Posillipo near Naples, Gaiola
is a miniscule rock-island
capped by a villa surrounded
by azure lapping waters. It’s
just a few swimming strokes
from the shore yet separate in
its own blissful world.
Or is it? The area’s resi-
dents have long cast their eyes
away and crossed themselves
as a talisman when they hear
the name spoken, because
in these parts of western
Italy, the island is commonly
thought to be cursed.
Gaiola is a pair of tufa rock
formations connected by a
thin bridge. There was a small
Roman temple dedicated to
Venus, possibly built over a
previous Greek temple dedi-
cated to Gaia. It is said that the
poet Virgil imparted wisdom
to his students here, and the
isle, along with Posillipo, was
an ancient Roman playground
BOOTS ON THE GROUND
Huatulco, Mexico
By Don Murray
Seven gorgeous bays, strung
together along a stretch of
Mexico’s Pacific coastline, are
collectively known as Huatulco.
There are a number of small towns
and villages nearby, with beautiful
resorts, homes in all price ranges,
and from what I hear, some of the
best seafood and water activities
to be found anywhere.
This spectacular tourist hot
spot is well known to Mexican
citizens (and some in-the-know
© COLLEEN CLAPP
visitors from the U.S.) and has col-
lected such glowing accolades in
recent years that it’s time to check
the savvy traveler
Valerie Fortney-Schneider
For those willing to brave the “curse” of Gaiola, it’s a pretty spot to visit.
for rulers and elite who built
their opulent aristocratic vil-
las along the shore.
Gaiola was later used for
coastal defense and by fisher-
men. The villa, which is still
present, was built in 1874 and
has brought trouble and ruin
to all its owners: bankruptcy,
premature deaths, sudden-
onset insanity, and suicide.
out Huatulco to see if it’s as good
a retirement destination as it is a
vacation spot.
Are the real estate prices
truly as reasonable as they seem?
Could the cost of living in a
seaside paradise be low enough
for the average retiree to thrive?
Is the internet and power grid as
stable as reported? Is it as safe
as they say, and what about the
medical care?
Most importantly, do the
sunset margaritas taste as good
as my expat sources in Huatulco
claim? I’m on the way there this
month, and I’ll let you know what
I discover.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
3
It’s also seen drownings, and,
most famously, kidnapping
for ransom in the case of John
Paul Getty, who owned the
island for a time. It seemed
that misfortune fell on all who
owned it, so it was eventually
turned over to the Campania
Region.
Gaiola is now part of an
archaeological park—the
Parco Sommerso di Gaiola.
The sea level has risen over
the centuries, submerging
parts of the ancient Roman
settlement, which can be seen
languishing below the water’s
surface. Together with the
Archaeology Park of Pausi-
lypon, it forms a fascinating
marine-archaeology area
that, incredibly, isn’t very
well-known. You can tour the
ruins on land and then board
a glass-bottomed boat to view
the walls and mosaics below
the surface. Or, swim with a
mask and snorkel. You can
easily reach Gaiola if you’re
a good swimmer and climb
ashore to explore the cursed
island...if you dare. n
HOT PICKS
CURIOUS CHURCHES
Them Bones, Them Bones...
“In the Algarve region of
Portugal, Faro offers a macabre
tourist attraction in the Capela
dos Ossos,” writes IL Portugal
Correspondent Tricia Pimental.
“The chapel was constructed with
the bones of 1,250 of the city’s
monks after they were exhumed
in the 19th century from Faro’s
overcrowded cemetery. Further
north, the medieval town of Évora
competes in creepiness. Its 16th-
century chapel, built from the
bones of 5,000 monks, features
a sign translating to, ‘We bones
here, await yours.’”
Guilty Consciences in Kampot
“At the top of Bokor Hill near to
Kampot are some intriguing archi-
tectural legacies from the French
colonial era,” writes IL Cambodia
contributor Steven King. “French
investors decided to build a
casino on this hill where the
altitude is high enough that fog
regularly shrouds everything in
sight. Apparently, the wives of the
casino enthusiasts demanded a
Catholic church be built as a form
of penance for their gambling
sins. Today the buildings remain a
big local tourist attraction due to
their ghost-town vibe.”
More of Them Bones
“Do you have a creepy liking
for bones? Then the catacombs
of the Franciscan Monastery in
Lima, Peru are for you,” writes
IL Peru Correspondent Steve
LePoidevin. “Here, you can
view the skulls and bones of an
estimated 25,000 people (some
sources say as many as 70,000),
artistically arranged in intricate
patterns. Discovered 75 years ago,
the catacombs served as a burial
ground until 1808, when the city’s
cemetery was opened. The site is
located one block northeast from
the Plaza Mayor.”

News & Notes From Around the World
THIS MONTH
Coffee is a way of life in
Colombia—­and nowhere
more so than in the aptly
named Coffee Triangle in
the country’s lush and spring-
like Andes highlands.
You’d expect a heady
brew in a coffee region. But
perhaps you don’t know
that affordable, sophisti-
cated, small-city living and
truly excellent, economical
healthcare are also part of
the scene in this overlooked
corner of one of Latin
America’s up-and-coming
expat havens.
Simply put, it’s one
of the most affordable
highland destinations in
Latin America. How about a
three-bedroom townhouse
in a high-end gated commu-
nity in the temperate city of
Pereira for just $66,740? The
bargains aren’t only in real
estate either. A couple could
live here for $1,500 a month.
And live well. When you
can take three people for a
fine dinner and wine at an
upscale restaurant for $60,
as expat Deborah Millonig
does, it’s easy to see why a
healthy, stress-free lifestyle
won’t break the bank.
Head to page 18 for the
full story.
globetrotter
you can view these protected
plants. The area’s temperate
climate offers the perfect con-
ditions to grow and maintain
these exquisite varieties.
In addition, the property
has been landscaped with
walkways lined with beauti-
ful native shrubs, trees, and
flowers.
© NNEHRING/iSTOCK
If you are visiting Finca
Dracula, you can now have the
pleasure of walking through
the first succulent garden in
Afficionados of the exotic can view rare varieties of orchid in Boquete. Panama. Inaugurated this year,
the new addition showcases
Dracula Orchids in Panama cactus plants from South and
Central America. The walk
F inca Dracula is one
of the top 10 orchid
gardens in the world.
Located just above Cerro
Punta in the province of
from which the farm gets its
name.
In 1969, owner Andrew
Maduro took his love of
orchids and began collecting
through the garden introduces
you to many blooming cactus
varieties. The display is show-
stopping.
Panama loves its orchids
Chiriquí, Panama, the and raising them. Today Finca and has itself over 1,200 native
collection is a must-see. Dracula is home to more than varieties. There are several
Staff give tours of the 2,200 species and thousands of orchid shows throughout the
operation January through hybrids. country during the year. The
April each year. The tours Many species at Finca Feria de las Orquideas (orchid
include introductions to many Dracula are on endangered show) in Boquete is just one.
different varieties of orchids, lists, so for orchid lovers this —IL Chiriquí Correspondent
including the Dracula orchid, may be the only place where Nanette Witmer.
NOTES FROM THE FIELD
BRAZIL VISAS
Suzan Haskins Raise your caipirinha (the
If you’re a resident retiree age 65 or older in national cocktail featuring
Ecuador, you’re eligible for some attractive cachaça—similar to rum—
benefits, including discounts on healthcare, sugar, and lime) in celebration.
airfares, restaurant meals, and more. You’ll If you hold a passport from
also qualify for a refund of sales tax paid for the United States, Canada, or
essential goods and services of as much as Australia, you no longer need
$92.64 a month per person—or more than to apply for a visa to visit Bra-
$1,111 a year. zil. Previously, travelers from
those three countries were
Jessica Ramesch obliged to apply for an e-visa,
Fish and seafood are easy to come by in at a cost of $40.
Panama. Many of my friends now eat more The new program allows
fish than any other protein. Fresh, natural visa-free stays of 90 days, with
food is part of the reason why so many expats the possibility of extending
say their health improved after moving here. validity to 180 days while in-
I’ve had people tell me their blood pressure country (subject to approval
dropped by as much as 10 points. No special by the Federal Police).
diet, just life in Panama.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER
INTERNATIONAL LIVING OCTOBER 20182019
4

© IRYNA1/DREAMSTIME.COM
Northern Italy is dotted with perfectly preserved historical towns.
Get Lost in Fontanellato
T he tiny Italian town
of Fontanellato, near
Parma, is home to a big
attraction—the world’s largest
labyrinth. The brainchild of
art publisher Franco Maria
Ricci, whose FMR magazine
has been called the most
beautiful in the world, the
maze and its structures
display his sense of style.
More than 200,000
bamboo plants form the
star-shaped
outline of the
maze, covering “You can
19 acres, with spend a
almost two miles
of paths inside. night in the
While most
visitors enjoy center of the
the challenge
and complete
labyrinth of
the maze in
about an hour
Masone.”
and a half, the
staff acknowledges that not
everyone makes it through
so easily; about 10% use the
emergency locator phone
number to be rescued.
The real reward comes
at the end when you get to
tour the private art museum
DID YOU KNOW? The terraced rice paddies of the Honghe Hani valley in southern China spread out
over more than a million acres and have been in constant use by farmers for over 1,200 years.
curated by Ricci. It includes
more than 500 works
encompassing 300 years of
art history. The museum also
hosts special exhibits and
musical events.
In the middle of the maze
is a central courtyard with a
pyramid-shaped chapel that
hosts small concerts and
special occasions. Ricci used
classical forms with a bit
of whimsy in designing the
buildings, which
include a casual
café as well as a
refined bistro.
Those who want
to really immerse
themselves can
do so literally, in
one of the two
classically styled
suites located in
the central court
building, letting
you spend a night in the center
of the labyrinth.
The Labyrinth of Masone
and its art museum are
open year-round, but closed
on Tuesdays.—IL Italy
Correspondent Valerie Fortney-
Schneider.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER
INTERNATIONAL LIVING OCTOBER 20182019
5
A World of Potatoes in Peru
Only in Peru, to my knowledge,
will you find a restaurant based
on potatoes. With almost 4,000
different native varieties, this is
not surprising.
In the southern “White City”
of Arequipa, the Hatunpa restau-
rant serves Peruvian classics on a
bed of up to seven different types
of potatoes.
Traditional sauces, a variety of
Penang’s Chic Container Mall
Not to be left out of a trend,
the Malaysian island of Pen-
ang has opened its first shop-
ping mall made from metal
shipping containers. With
80,000 square feet of contain-
ers and creative landscaping,
the CuboPark hosts bou-
tiques, restaurants, bars, and
lots of Instagramable nooks
and crannies. Each container
is designed by the shop owner
using mostly recycled items.
The setting doubles as a
space for live performances,
exhibitions, and workshops.
And since eating is a Malay-
sian pastime, there are dozens
The Graveyard of Anchors
A vast field packed with gnarled
anchors marks the white-sand
dunes of Praia do Barril, a testa-
ment to the long-forgotten fishing
tradition in this region of Portugal.
Since the times of Ancient
Rome, fishermen used anchors
to weigh down their nets to catch
bluefin tuna in the unpredictable
waters where the wild Atlantic and
the tranquil Mediterranean meet.
Now, though, the ancient
practice is no more, following
the decline in tuna population in
the 1960s. But the graveyard of
meats (alpaca, chicken, and beef)
and vegetarian options round out
the tasty dishes. The small restau-
rant nook tucked away in the city’s
historic colonial center is tastefully
decorated with colourful Peruvian
textiles and crafts. The friendly
wait staff place your country’s
flag on the table once they find
out where you are from.— IL Peru
Correspondent, Steve LePoidevin.
of eateries to entice everyone.
I tried Korean kimchi ramen,
Thai spiced grilled pork, and
followed it up with home-
made ice cream. The day I
was there, they were showing
Charlie Chaplin movies in an
open courtyard with scattered
revamped VW beetles for
additional seating. Down the
walkway, a band was playing in
a garden with trees designed to
look like jellyfish. There is even
a small propeller plane on the
second story of one spot that
looks like one of the famous
ruin bars of Budapest.—IL
contributor Kirsten Raccuia.
anchors remains.
The nearby village of Santa
Luzia, known locally as “capital do
Polvo,” or capital of octopus (a
local delicacy), is a quiet fishing
village with unspoiled beaches.
Tavira, a 10-minute bus jour-
ney away, offers the more typical
tourist experience in the Algarve,
with restaurants like Porto di Mare
serving seafood dishes including
swordfish, baked clams, and Por-
tugal’s staple—salt cod—for under
$20 per person.—IL contributor
Aoife Walsh.

A Wedding, an Island, and an
Accidental Expat in Corfu
Jeff D. Opdyke
I t wasn’t quite a big, fat Greek wedding.
But it was a wedding in Greece that set
Merilyn Leeburn’s life on a radically
different trajectory.
Until that wedding in 2012, Merilyn, 73,
had been living happily in a beach com-
munity three hours outside of Melbourne,
Australia. But her daughter had met a
Greek man from the island of Corfu while
traveling through Europe, and he had ulti-
mately proposed marriage. The wedding
saw Merilyn travel to the mountainous
village of Spartilas—“and I just fell in love
with the place,” Merilyn says. “It felt like
I’d come home.”
Back in Australia, Merilyn examined
her life and wondered, “What am I doing
here?” Her daughter was in Greece. Her
son and his wife were in London. And
Merilyn increasingly felt that her happi-
ness was back on Corfu, a green, almost
tropical Greek island.
“So, I packed up my life, packed up my
house and rented it out, and I moved to
Corfu,” she says. “That was 2015…and I’ve
never looked back.”
Merilyn’s journey to Greece captures
the desire of so many retirees and soon-
to-be retirees who seek a different life over-
seas. Whether drawn by family, finances,
healthcare, adventure—or some combina-
tion thereof—a growing number of people
such as Merilyn Leeburn are putting aside
the life they’ve known in places like Aus-
tralia, Canada, or the U.S. for simpler, less
costly, more vibrant and enjoyable lives
overseas in places such as Greece.
Merilyn tells me the story of her move
to Corfu while we’re sipping cappuccinos
on the patio of a small coffee shop, high
on a hill in Spartilas—a Lilliputian-sized
village with expansive views. Just there
in the distance: the Greek mainland and
Albania across the Ionian Sea. It is a pretty
place. As we speak, bells ring just across
the street at the local church to announce
the arrival of 10 a.m. “You never tire of that
here,” Merilyn says, with a smile that’s
more contentment than happiness.
In short, she’s at peace.
lifestyle: greece
“I love the simplicity of life,” she says.
“It’s so easy here.”
Not that retiring oversea was ever her
plan. “I thought I’d be in my little house
down at Golden Beach forever,” she says.
“It wasn’t until I came to Spartilas for the
wedding (her son-in-law grew up here),
and I thought, ‘Oh, this is lovely.’” Back in
Australia, Merilyn had long talks with her
sister, suffering from multiple myeloma,
and brother with heart
problems. They both said,
“You’ve got to go where your “I don’t think
family is, and I thought,
‘Yeah, you’re right.’”
I spend more
To gain a Greek residence than $900 a
card under the country’s
“financially independent month.”
person” arrangement, she
had to prove she has health coverage
and adequate income of at least €2,000 a
month ($2,300), which she earns from her
pension and the rental income from her
house. She pays no Greek taxes because
she still pays taxes back in Australia.
Her main challenge so far is the Greek
language—“I try, but I just can’t pick it
up,” she says. But she manages to commu-
Studded with islets and beckoning coves, the
coast of Corfu is a tranquil wonderland.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
6
nicate. Because Corfu is a popular desti-
nation with visitors from the U.K., many
locals speak English, particularly in the
service industry.
Besides proximity to her daughter—
and new grandson—the relocation has
offered numerous benefits. She’s lost 22
pounds. She no longer needs cortisone
injections for an injury. She walks more.
The food—almost all local—is farm-to-
table not because of some environmen-
tally hip marketing spin, but because it’s
the natural order of life on Corfu, where
fruits and vegetables at the market are,
in most cases, grown within a few miles
and generally without pesticides or other
chemicals.
She even got a tattoo last year, on her
arm. It reads, “Strength
comes from within,” in
homage to her sister’s battle
with cancer.
Healthcare in Greece
is good and affordable.
Many doctors are trained
in Western Europe and
the U.S., “so quality isn’t a
problem,” Merilyn says. “And the cost—I
had to see a dermatologist and it was €50
($57). And when I went back for a check-
up and more treatment, she didn’t charge
me. Fifty euros seems to be the price for
everything.”
“If my health really goes down and
I feel I will have better benefits back in
Australia, I’d probably go back. I still have
my house there, so I can move back into
it. Otherwise, for me, this is a permanent
move. This is where I want to be.”
All in, Merilyn says, “I don’t think I
spend more than $900 a month on every-
thing, really. But I’ve been a single mom
since my kids were three and five, so I
learned to be frugal.”
Merilyn rents a three-bedroom house
with a balcony overlooking the sea and the
Greek mainland. Her cost: $400 a month.
She spends $90 to $100 on a once-a-month
supermarket trip to stock up on basics,
and, maybe, $50 over the course of the
month buying fresh meat and vegetables
at small, local markets.
Her electrical costs: about $150 every
three months, compared with more than
$400 every three months back in Australia.
© PPART/iSTOCK
When she goes out for a meal, “€15 (about
$17) gets me a very good meal, drinks
included. And Greek wine is excellent.” n
 lifestyle: south korea
An Adventurous Jersey Girl
Finds Her Ideal Retirement
Taylor Bond
I t’s not an obvious place for an
overseas retirement, but Christine
Meislohn, 68, has been living in South
Korea for the past two-and-a-half years
with no plans of ever moving back to the
U.S. Compared to her life in suburban
New Jersey, everything in Seoul is easier.
“I’m the oldest of seven. It’s a relief not
to have to deal with being responsible. I
moved here to be closer to my daughter,
but I haven’t looked back once.”
She is a particular fan of Seoul’s
convenient transportation system.
“There’s no need for a car,” she exclaims
with a laugh. “I love not having one. The
public transportation is fabulous, and
I’m able to get around everywhere. The
subway runs all throughout the city and
it’s quick. There’s never an issue with
delays; they’re always on time.” A single
ride costs about the same as a chocolate
bar, “nothing like the price increases New
York has seen lately.”
Accessing transportation isn’t a
problem for Christine. Despite retiring
to Seoul to be near to her daughter,
Cassie, the two live in separate houses
but see each other often. Christine lives
in Hongdae, an area best known for its
art university and back alleys lined with
trendy restaurants and bars.
“I grew up outside of New York City
all of my life. I couldn’t get a closet in
NYC for the rent I pay here. I got really
close with my landlord—a Korean
man and his sister— who had traveled
extensively in the past. The sister was an
artist with two young children and had
lived in France for nine years and in the
U.S. for six. We had dinner together every
week. I became a foreign grandma to her
kids before the family moved to Hawaii.”
A typical day for Christine is packed
with activities. “I wake up at nine or 10 in
the morning. I used to go to church, but
services started at nine in the morning
and that was just too early for me,”
she laughs. “Usually I make breakfast
and spend some time relaxing inside.
By lunch time, I head out. Museums,
Houses in Seoul have an ornate appearance
that’s simultaneously exotic and homey.
shopping centers, galleries, there’s a lot
that I’m interested in so it keeps me busy.
My favorite gallery is the Museum of
Contemporary Art. It’s located in a quiet
neighborhood near one of the palaces.
The top of the building has great views of
the traditional Korean hanok houses, plus
it’s close to a lot of affordable restaurants
too.”
That’s another thing she
loves about Seoul. Korean “There’s no
food, while spicier cuisine
than she was used to in New
need for a
Jersey, has grown on her. car. I love not
Now she usually eats out
once a day. “Low- to mid- having one.”
level-priced food is so much
more abundant here than in the States.
I save a lot of my grocery budget here,
even though I eat out more often.” Her
absolute favorite restaurant is McCoy’s
in Itaewon. Itaewon is the hub of the
international communities in Seoul and
is where all the expats hang out. “McCoy’s
has a Korean Cordon Bleu-trained chef
who makes fantastic steaks.”
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
7
Christine’s favorite hobby is
shopping for fabric and craft supplies
at the Dongdaemun Market, an
expansive indoor retail complex that
sells everything from sequins to curtain
embellishments. “That’s where most of
my money ends up,” she explains. “I go
there once a week, or once every other
week. It’s gotten to the point where the
Dunkin Donuts there gives me extra
service.” Her experience with costume
design and crafting keeps her in touch
with the community of other expats in
Seoul. She stays involved in the local
theater groups and has begun sewing for
a burlesque group as well.
Seoul is a place where things move
constantly and change quickly. That’s
exactly the energy that Christine prefers.
There’s no limit to the amount of
creativity packed into the city. One of the
events she enjoyed the most, sponsored
by a cultural organization in Seoul,
involved poetry readings, live music, and
free lunch. “The city of Seoul sponsored
me, students, Korean poets and a few
musicians to go to Geunsen. The poets
recited their work on the train ride down,
we did some sightseeing, got lunch at
a wonderful seafood restaurant—since
Guensen is a major shipping port to
Japan—and came back all in one day.”
The city regularly supports similar
activities for foreigners to promote
Korean culture and arts, which Christine
always loves to take advantage of.
“It’s not the easiest place to retire to—
not like Thailand or some of the other
Southeast Asian countries. I’ve got to
leave every 90 days to renew my visa, but
that’s given me a chance
to visit a lot of the other
places I never would have
been to before.” She can’t
decide on her favorite.
“I’ve been to Fukuoka
twice, Okinawa, Taiwan,
Thailand. I’ve never
traveled around Asia before
this. I was supposed to come for work at
one stage, but then I retired, and never
made it over for a work trip. Now,” she
laughs, “I live here.”
Christine has no plans to return
anytime soon. “I’m 68 and I just don’t
© EFIRED/iSTOCK
want to take care of people. I did a lot
of that before. I’m finally living life for
myself, and only myself.” n
 real estate

I am riding along the streets of the

quaint and cozy northern Ecuadorian
town of Cotacachi. With me, real
estate maven Jim Keyser cracks a joke
that focuses on one of the key elements
of appeal that draws expats seeking a
comfortable place to settle into a new life.
“You know what we call a person who
makes a ridiculously low offer on a home
here?” Jim asks. “Property owner.”
Jim, who operates Cotacachi Prop-
erties, specializes in sales, rentals,
and investment opportunities. (See:
Jkmug12300@aol.com) He explains as we
drive around the city looking at proper-
ties. “It’s a buyer’s market,” he says. “A
two-bedroom, two-bathroom adobe home
that sold for $150,000 10 years ago may
come in at $120,000 today. A turn-key,
fully furnished condo can run around Beverley Scherberger’s home in Cotacachi is a fine example of modern adobe construction.
$59,000 or be negotiated for as low as
$50,000.”
Almost everyone who has searched for
good real estate deals knows the formula
House Hunting in Ecuador’s
“location, location, location,” but for
those coming to Cotacachi, the mantra is
more “affordability, affordability, afford-
Friendliest Small Town
ability.” Donna Stiteler
Although pioneering expats stum-
bled upon the peaceful town of Cota- Cotacachi in 15 minutes. But to conserve on street corners or spend your days
cachi starting around 2008, Cotacachi’s time, we’ve chosen to drive around as Jim ensconced in the many activities offered
international rise to fame came around points out different bargains for all types by the expat community.
2014 when International Living acclaimed of housing. It’s a paradise for the contemplative
Ecuador as its number one place to retire “The overbuild is in large part due to type—a place you can find the privacy and
in the world. This prompted an influx this construction explosion to meet the stillness necessary to make the leap from
of expats looking for an escape from the influx of expats seeking a break from the the hectic treadmill of U.S. living to a
daily grind; a place where they could find rat-race,” Jim explains. more sympathetic pace of life. You can be
solace, but that they could also afford. I understand the draw to Cotacachi. I as alone as you like, but still have a com-
Soon afterward, HGTV’s watched the House Hunters munity of friendly expats to make you feel
House Hunters International International episode where safe and at home.
started featuring the adobe
homes being built around
“You can walk Barb and Dean considered
buying one of the adobe
Cotacachi, elevation 7,993 feet, has a
population of approximately 9,000 with
town, and Cotacachi’s real
estate boomed.
anywhere in homes, and I vicariously fell
in love with Cotacachi too.
45 indigenous communities living in the
surrounding countryside. The town strad-
“It’s a small town. People Cotacachi in 15 Visiting Cotacachi and dles two inactive volcanos, Imbabura and
move here for ‘what’s not having a look around in Cotacachi, providing magnificent moun-
here.’ There’s no drugs, no minutes.” person assures me that the tain views. Unlike many other Ecuadorian
traffic jams, no crime, no hype was justified. Maybe expat locations, 50% of the population is
rushing around. It’s quiet and peace- it was the high I got the first time I came indigenous.
ful,” says Jim. “It’s very friendly here, here, from sniffing the rich, earthy, and For those wanting to live among the
whether you’re indigenous or an expat. slightly sweet smell of vegetable tanning original tribal natives, this is the place to
It’s very safe. You couldn’t ask for better oil in the shops lining Diez de Agosto be, as the town is immersed in Inca tradi-
weather—every day the temperature is in (known as Leather Street), but…Cotacachi tions. Cotacachi takes this heritage seri-
© BEVERLEY SCHERBERGER

the mid-70s F, with lows at night down in
the 50s F.”
It’s ironic that we are actually rid-
ing in a car around town to look at real
estate, because you can walk anywhere in
had me at “smello.”
I like to call Cotacachi “The Mayberry
of Ecuador,” for its small-town charm.
It’s a place where everyone knows your
name, where you stop to chat with friends
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
8
ously, shutting down for 10 days in June to
celebrate Intyrami, the ancestral tribute
to the Sun God, and to give blessings for a
good harvest.
Women still wear their indigenous
clothing: ankle-length black wrap-around
skirts and long scarfs wrapped in a loose
turban over their thick, black hair, which
is usually worn in a long pigtail falling to
their lower backs. Their main occupation
is agriculture, and they sell their wares
in the popular Sunday market located
downtown.
Cotacachi has a small expat popula-
tion (about 700), but it’s hard to feel
alone, especially for single women,
because of the tight-knit
nature of the expat com-
munity. For those wanting “Thick walls
social interaction, there are
a plethora of cafés offering
make heating
Starbucks-esque settings or cooling
and quaint restaurants serv-
ing American favorites like unnecessary.”
club sandwiches.
Expats volunteer to teach English,
dance to the live music of La Banda,
indulge in bridge games, or play pickle-
ball. Cotacachi offers up most everything
of interest to expats, and for those yearn-
ing for bigger-city-life, Ecuador’s capital,
Quito, is just 45 minutes away, with its
symphonies, expansive malls, and enter-
tainment plazas offering fine dining and
quirky bars.
“It’s not unusual for expats to move
after about five to seven years,” Jim
adds, explaining the overbuilding and
the buyer’s market. “People move back
home to care for aging parents, be close
to grandchildren, for health reasons, or
they want to try out a different location in
Ecuador. This has left a large inventory of
all types of housing for sale or rent.”
Jim points out that it’s about a
20-minute walk or $2.50 taxi ride if you
move to the outskirts of town, home to
several of the gated expat communities.
He waves at a friend riding an electric bike
from his adobe home to downtown, stop-
ping long enough to make dinner plans.
Our first stop was to see an adobe
home at the upper reaches of the price
range, coming in at a cool $267,000 sale
price—but this house would easily go
for $350,000 in Tucson, Arizona. The
four-bedroom, three-bathroom home was
custom built, with archways connecting
different sections of the house—the office
area, guest accommodations, master
suite, and sprawling kitchen.
The house was built with cutouts in
the walls to display the intricacies of the
build—large adobe bricks, mixed with
straw and clay to form thick insulating
walls.
“The thick walls make the need for
heating or cooling unnecessary, as the
house heats to a comfortable temperature
during the day, which keeps the house
warm through the night,” Jim explains.
To round out our tour, Jim was kind
enough to show me an exquisite condo
in La Casa de Los Sueños, a collection of
Mediterranean buildings
that sports a rustic but ele-
gant Tuscan style, includ-
ing aged finishes, iron
scrollwork, terracotta tiles,
beamed ceilings, and walls
painted in warm palettes of
neutrals and earth tones,
such as rusty orange and
moss green. The price, always negotiable,
is around $198,000 for a 1,440-square-
foot, two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo,
furnished.
As for lower-cost condos, Jim takes me
to the Primera development, known for
its large vegetable garden and avocado,
lemon, and tangerine trees kept by two
full-time gardeners, where residents can
avail themselves of fresh produce for free.
Located in one of the most desirable
locations in town, condos in the Primera
development are selling
for as low as $50,000 for
a “penthouse” (which, as
“Condos are
Jim explains, in Cotacachi
just means it’s on the top
selling for
floor). What’s on offer is a as low as
670-square-foot studio apart-
ment with an outside patio $50,000.”
of the same size.
Larger condos run around $85,000
(easily negotiated for less) for a
1,270-square-foot two-bedroom, two-
bathroom condo. For expats looking to
rent in Cotacachi, local agent Joe Stock
lists rentals at Primera for as low as $450 a
month for a small studio, up to $650 for a
two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo. (See:
Livingincotacachi.com)
“It’s worked out well for investors
wanting rental property or to provide
rent-to-own opportunities. We can offer
potential buyers a condo for $650 a month
including electric, water, HOA fees…eve-
rything except for internet, and deduct
the rent off the purchase price,” adds Jim.
By stepping away from more expen-
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
9
sive and higher-maintenance adobe
construction, options for cost-effective
living become more affordable. A new
standard construction home starts at
$120,000 for a three-bedroom, two-bath-
room, 2,300-square-foot home with a yard
within walking distance of town.
One option on the market now is
a 1,700-square-foot home including a
separate guest house, located in a popular
gated community in town. “It’s perfect
for those who have lots of visitors or
want extra income for a ‘casita’ rental for
$148,000,” Jim adds.
My friend, Beverley Scherberger,
decided to build her adobe home after
watching an episode of House Hunters
International featuring Carolina dePaoli, a
local real estate agent, eight years ago.
“I was on an exploratory trip to Cota-
cachi and saw Carolina walking down the
street and, like a fan, shouted, ‘Hey, I saw
you on House Hunters!” Beverley explains.
Eight days later she had signed a contract
to build her adobe home in the gated com-
munity of Colonia de Batan.
“We went to see the development and
we fell in love with the tiled roofs and
wood beams. I designed the house and
we paid $50 per square foot at the time to
build.” Beverley’s house is a two-bedroom,
two-bathroom, one-story split plan so
when company comes,
they have their own private
guest area. “I love my yard.
I’ve hired people to land-
scape and build a brick and
wrought iron wall around
the property for privacy.”
Beverley has no prob-
lem walking the 20 minutes
into town or snagging a $2.50 taxi and
has the time now to concentrate on
writing novels and movie scripts, which
have recently been made into movies in
Ecuador.
Cotacachi is the quintessential afford-
able, countryside escape. One where you
live with Inca traditions and enjoy the
peace and quiet of country living but
where you are also only a stone’s throw
away from city thrills. It’s a place where
$1,500 a month easily buys you a comfort-
able life in an expat community filled
with welcoming smiles.
I’d say, “What do you call a person
making a ridiculously low offer on real
estate in Cotacachi? A smart thinker.” n

For some, the community feel of a small town like Dénia, Spain, outweighs the attractions of a city.
Trading a City Life For a Small-
Town Retirement Abroad
“ Moving Here Is the Greatest Thing I’ve
Done in My Life”
Name: Tony Boatwright
Age: 62
From: Atlanta, Georgia
Living in: Penonomé, Panama
Moving to Panama in February 2012 was
the start of my great adventure. As a child,
my friend and I had our own Huckleberry
Finn fantasy. We imagined floating down
the Chattahoochee River to the Gulf of
Mexico, then making our way along the
coast to that mythical land they called
“the tropics.”
You can call me crazy,
many have. A quadriplegic “We wanted
who barely speaks any
Spanish moves to Central
to start living
America by himself. It may life to
sound crazy but moving here
is the greatest thing I’ve done the fullest.”
in my life.
I didn’t go blindly. My research led me
to choose Panama. The list of positives
was impressive. The country has a stable
government and is safe to live in. It uses
the U.S. dollar as currency, so there’s
no exchange problems. The healthcare
is high-quality and affordable, and the
living the dream
weather is as warm as I like.
Moving from Atlanta, it was dynamic
Panama City that originally attracted me.
But after my first rental house became
unavailable, I found a new place in Santa
Clara, out in the country. Which turned
out to be a good thing.
Without realizing it, living in Santa
Clara had changed me. The urban lifestyle
I lived in Atlanta was available to me in
Panama City. Yet now the tranquil small-
town life felt more appealing.
Penonomé, nearby, is the economic
hub and capital of the agricultural
province of Coclé. The
more I visited it, the more
it reminded me of where I
grew up in rural Georgia. I
liked Penonomé so much
that I moved there in
November 2013.
The two-lane street
through the mercado is one-
way. The farmers park their trucks full of
farm-fresh produce along the left side.
This allows me to perform the slightly
illegal act of stopping in the street and
buying through my car window. I cannot
tell you how many times I have happily
accepted additional discounted produce
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
10
instead of change.
The mercado is one of the few places
that is not accessible by wheelchair. The
ramps and curb cuts in Penonomé are
otherwise OK. I’ll admit, there are some
horrible ramps here and a serious lack
of information on proper accessibility
design. But I have never had a problem
getting help on ramps.
Penonomé is in the Panamanian hills
and still less than 30 minutes from the
ocean. My house sits a mile outside of
town on a cliff overlooking the Zarati
River. My first concern was making an
accessible bathroom and remodeling a
kitchen to be more accessible. The open
courtyard design turned out to have a
surprising benefit after my mom came to
visit.
Calling the family at Thanksgiving
a few years ago, I invited Mom to come
down and spend the winter here. The
family quickly quashed her protests. My
88-year-old mom made the three-hour
flight and spent two months with me.
Living in shorts and tank tops,
working in the yard in January, amazed
by the fresh fruits and vegetables so
readily available, all contributed to Mom
understanding why I loved it here in
Panama. When the harsh 2014 winter in
Georgia continued, I easily convinced her
to move here permanently.
Across the courtyard from my master
suite is her three-room apartment. It is
private, secure, and has its own porch,
all inside the corner of my house. Mom
is totally independent, yet in a position
where I can give her any help she needs.
The benefits from sharing everyday
with her are incredible. We are making
cherished memories, and countless bits
of family history have been revealed in
our conversations. Living in Panama has
improved my life.—Tony Boatwright.
“We Are So Content, and Every Day
Brings Something New”
Name: Neill and Daisy Butterworth
Age: 62, 61
© SEAN KEENAN/INTERNATIONAL LIVING
From: Sydney, Australia
Living in: Krabi, Thailand
My wife, Daisy, and I were both nearing
our 60th birthdays. We’d had enough of
the rat race and the snarling traffic jams.
We both worked at a university in Sydney,
Australia, but in 2017, with our two sons
off in college, we wanted to start living
life to the fullest.
We had previously had holidays
in Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, and
Vietnam and really appreciated the
difference in the culture, values, and the
pace of life. So we sold our car and two-
bedroom place on Sydney’s North Shore.
It was a big step, but we instinctively
knew it was the right decision. Daisy and
I didn’t just want to dabble in the culture,
we wanted to live it.
It was when we were heading overland
from Malaysia to Phuket, Thailand that
we stopped for a few nights in Krabi
Town. It was love at first sight. At once we
appreciated the feel to this little town that
is the gateway to the beautiful islands of
the Andaman coast. We could see that
there is a real provincial scene happening
beneath the veneer of the tourist industry
and decided to give it a go.
Renting a place was much easier
than we thought; there are so many
bungalows, condos, big and small houses
for rent. We settled for a two-bedroom
furnished house with a shared swimming
pool and security in a private estate.
For this we pay the equivalent of $630 a
month.
We bought a Vespa scooter for $420,
knowing it needed a little bit of work. It is
important to get some form of transport
here, as taxis can get expensive.
I took the Vespa to a local garage
and met a mechanic called Khun Kwan.
He was struggling to repair an old Ford
pickup, which is my specialty. I helped
him out, and we became firm friends. I
go in once a week and do a day’s work. It’s
Thai wages but great fun.
We spend around $1,750 to $2,000 a
month in total, depending if we do a few
side trips. We sometimes head out to the
islands. Koh Lanta and Koh Lipe are our
favorites, only a couple of hours away,
and two of the most beautiful islands you
could ever set foot on. We are beginning
to explore some of the more remote
islands too.
The food in Krabi Town is delicious.
Over time you learn to distinguish the
subtle nuances of proper Thai food. Our
top restaurant for authentic Thai is called
the Poo Dan Bar and Restaurant right on
the riverfront. The cost of a meal in a Thai
restaurant is very affordable at $7 to $10
for two people, and, quite rightly, Thai
food has the reputation as being one of
the best cuisines anywhere in the world.
We are so content, and every day
brings something new. We have met some
wonderful friends, and we have the best
of both worlds. We can immerse ourselves
in Thai culture, but we can also go to one
of several sports bars for our fix of home.
Although there are no expat clubs or
organizations to join and meet people on
arrival, the town is small enough to get
to know most expats quickly. We feel free
and far away from the mundane.—Neill
Butterworth.
“We Found Dénia by Accident and
Loved it Enough to Stay”
Name: James and Claudine Alred
Age: 67, 62
From: Portland, Oregon
Living in: Dénia, Spain
“I found this place out riding on my
motorbike,” James Alred says, gesturing
to a backdrop that can only be described
as heavenly.
I’ve followed his
directions to this small,
beachside restaurant “Tranquil
just yards from the
Mediterranean, and we’re
small-town
eating the freshest sea life felt more
bream imaginable, brought
to our table piping hot appealing.”
with golden sear marks
crossing the white flesh. A glass of cold,
white Albarinho wine from the Galicia
region of northwest Spain is a delectable
accompaniment.
To be honest, in this setting, with the
sea heaving gently onto the white rocks
of the bay, the sky a deep blue overhead,
and our backs sheltered by limestone
cliffs capped with a 600-year-old stone
fortress, we could be eating yesterday’s
microwaved burritos, and they’d taste
like haute cuisine. In a big city, a location
like this would be unimaginably upscale
and pricey. Here, our two lunches, with
wine, mineral water, and coffee, come to
around $40.
Even though James Alred lives just
outside a high-end resort in Spain, he
and his wife, Claudine, pay just $1,140 for
their two-story, four-bedroom house with
views of the Mediterranean, balconies,
and the structure of a 700-year-old well
in their back garden. “In Portland,” James
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
11
points out, “we’d be paying at least $2,000
to $3,000 for this.”
For James, the best part of the
property is the smaller apartment that
comes with the rent, which he uses as a
rehearsal room and recording area for
his music projects. Under the moniker
James Faretheewell, he recorded three
albums in Portland. He also worked as a
photographer. While he’s retired from the
photography business, true musicians
never give up, and living on Spain’s Costa
Blanca gives him ample time to rehearse.
Claudine’s work as a tour guide
brought her to Europe repeatedly, and,
tagging along, James realized over the
years that the continent was a perfect
fit for their lifestyle and values. “We
were happy in Oregon, but we got
disillusioned with how things are in the
U.S. It’s so divided and angry. We were
spending longer and longer on visits
to Europe. Every year, we’d be here for
two to three months. In 2018, we were
visiting Claudine’s family in France and
decided to drive down south and explore
Spain. We found Dénia
by accident and loved it
enough to stay.”
The town has
everything they need. Bars,
restaurants, a daily produce
market, a healthcare center,
and a pleasant mix of locals
and expats. “I love that it’s
so international here,” says James. “You
hear a lot of different languages when
you walk down the street.”
It clearly suits him, and it’s doing
him good. “I just had a physical with
my doctor, as a condition of my medical
insurance. I was amazed by how thorough
it all was. Blood tests, ultrasounds, the
works. In the U.S., there’s nothing like
the amount of time and attention as they
give you here. And I passed it all. My
cholesterol’s down, my blood pressure’s
down.
“It’s partly the Mediterranean diet,
but it’s also partly due to the Spanish
culture. In small towns like this,
businesses take long lunchbreaks, and I
still haven’t gotten used to that. I might
be tempted to buy junk food, but the
stores are closed when I go to get it!”
James laughs. “It’s not as convenient as
in the U.S., but it’s probably better for
me.”—Seán Keenan. n
 healthcare

I t was a steamy night at the Chiang Rai

Night Bazaar. Tourists were crowded
around stalls with colorful trinkets,
carts with fresh organic strawberries were
smelling sweet, and the tuk-tuks were
lined up in wonky rows along the street.
I walked toward my hotel down a little
soi (alleyway) in an attempt to take a short
cut. I was prepared to get lost and make
my way back, but I was also excited at
what I might find. As I passed massage
shops and little restaurants, I began to
hear something very familiar.
There was a group of men sitting
outside of a little bar cooling off with a
few cold beers. They were speaking with
Australian accents, so I stopped to have
a drink myself and listen in on their
conversation.
“It’s amazing,” said one of them. Thailand’s year-round warmth and outdoor lifestyle can immediately improve expats’ health.
“I can make a fist. I haven’t been able
to do that for years,” said another.
This was a very enthusiastic group
discussion. So, I had to ask what was
A Skeptic Tries Alternative
going on. A man they called Bluey, whose
hair was actually a fawny grey, explained
that they were all taking Chinese herbal
Healing in Chiang Mai
medicine for their arthritis. Rachel Devlin
Apparently, Bluey got some of these
herbs when he last visited Bangkok. He point where I was ready to try something best secret about four months ago, and
was so happy with the result that he flew different so I could feel well again. it was by accident. A chance meeting
back again and brought back samples As I stepped into the old traditional in a hairdresser’s led to me chatting
for his other expat friends. I know that Thai building, I noticed how clean and to Heather, who was originally from
people with arthritis do better in Asian organized it was. Mangkala (the Chinese Melbourne, Australia, and now lives in
countries simply because of the warm medicine clinic) was filled with helpful Texas. She had a terrible back injury and
climate. But these gentlemen were all staff. The owner listened to me with visits Chiang Mai for continued healing
adamant that these herbal pellets were great compassion. She understood and treatment.
helping to the extent that they could medically what my issues were and gave She gave me a phone number of Ajarn
do their gardening and go me some advice which was Sinchai, a blind, 72-year-old masseur
for long bike rides without
significant pain. “It has the current approach in
helping my condition. She
who, I have since discovered, worked for
the local hospital for many years before he
Expats often say that
Chiang Mai is a good place
dramatically was highly educated and
far from the “hocus pocus”
retired.
My husband, Mick, had a frozen
for healing, but I used to improved my image attached by many to shoulder. He had done four weeks of
lean toward the side of this type of medicine. physical therapy with the local hospital
skepticism. Nowadays, I am quality of life.” My monthly but was only improving very slowly. His
much more open-minded. prescription was filled in visits cost $17 for a 90-minute session.
Six years ago, before my expat life, I a small bottle. I take 10 tiny pellets in the I booked him for treatments with Mr.
was diagnosed with a disease that affects evening. They remind me of peppercorns Sinchai and, within three weeks, Mick
© VICTORIA HARMER/INTERNATIONAL LIVING

my digestive system. Without going into
the details, I was often left feeling unwell.
Every few months I would even find
myself in hospital for treatment which
often meant a few nights’ stay.
When someone mentioned to me that
I should visit the local Chinese herbalist,
I didn’t think too much of it. But then my
bouts of illness surfaced again. I was at a
but are a little larger and actually smell
nice. I noticed the difference within
three days. I was feeling much better. My
monthly bill is just $8.50. And I have not
been to a hospital in over a year.
I am now a convert. This isn’t the cure,
but it has dramatically improved my
quality of life.
Also, I think I unearthed the world’s
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
12
had almost all his movement back. It was
miraculous.
“He is well versed in muscles and
tendons, and it feels like Mr Sinchai has
X-ray fingers,” says Mick of his treatment.
“This isn’t some street massage guy; the
man has incredible talent.” We have since
recommended Mr. Sinchai to many an
expat friend, and all are amazed at his
ability to heal even the oldest of painful
niggling problems. Mr. Sinchai charges
$8.50 per hour, and we all agree it is
money very well spent.
If you are interested in something
more spiritually involved, we also
discovered a small community of healers
40 minutes’ drive north of the city. The
head healer is called the Holy Mother
and lives in a small moo baan (gated
community) complete with a temple and
a team of healers with an array of talents.
After opening meditation, the Holy
Mother takes on the spirit of a monk. She
is then known as The Father.
A visit with the Holy Mother includes
sitting at her feet and talking through
any issues with her interpreters. She
asks for your birth date and uses Chinese
astrology in some way to then work
out your treatment. You can visit for
emotional, psychological, or physical
problems, and the kindness from her
community is open and abundant.
Every person I watched had different
treatments. Some included hot stones,
herbal teas, and massage, as well as rituals
with fire, smoke, and incense.
As someone watching all this through
rather skeptical eyes, I was surprised to
see that there is no cost for the healing
service. There is a voluntary donation
box, and that is all. I left this place with
the knowledge that this small community
really cared about the people who visited
for advice and healing. It was a beautiful
group of people and a fascinating
experience to participate in. I left
knowing that this place was not a scam.
So how do you find all these amazing
and alternative treatments? The only
way is through word of mouth. Talk to
other expats. Don’t believe what you read
online; speak to someone with first-hand
experience.
We all know the story of Western
medicine. It is often hard to find the right
doctor for the problem, and it can be
very costly trying treatments, therapies,
and pharmaceuticals. But here in Chiang
Mai, there are many alternative places to
explore for healing. The great news is that
it is all affordable enough to try different
treatments until you find the one that
works for you.
Personally, I have been cured of
something I was unaware I had—a
chronic bout of closed-mindedness. n
WESTERN MEDICINE IN THAILAND
A
common observation on the differ-
ence between healthcare styles in
Asia and in the West is that, in the
West, patients go to the doctor only when
they are ill. In Asian medicine, with its
more long-term preventive approach, the
onset of an illness is when patients decide
to stop going to their doctor.
There may be a grain of truth in
that, or it may be a gross oversimplifica-
tion. Nevertheless, while there is much
to recommend alternative therapies,
there are situations in which you may feel
more comfortable opting for Western-
style medical or surgical care. Thailand’s
private healthcare system consists of a
large number of well-equipped, state-of-
the-art hospitals with English-speaking
doctors and nurses. These top-of-the-line
operations rival and frequently exceed the
standards of North American hospitals,
and you’re often able to visit a specialist
within a short time of walking through the
front door…without booking an appoint-
ment beforehand.
Although there is no public health
insurance available to expats, there are
several options to obtain private insurance
from a variety of excellent companies,
both domestic and international. Specialist
consultations and common medical proce-
dures are available at a fraction of the cost
that you would pay back home.
Whichever approach you choose—Western or Eastern—Thailand has excellent healthcare options.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
13
If you do end up needing to use a Thai
hospital, here are some tips:
• Ambulances in Chiang Mai are contract-
ed to different hospitals. Have the hospital
phone number stored on your phone in
case of emergency and call that hospital
for an ambulance. This ensures that you
go to the hospital of your choice.
• Medications have very different clas-
sifications in Thailand. Some over-the-
counter medicine at home will need a
doctor’s visit here. Interestingly, antibiotics
can be purchased at any pharmacy without
a prescription.
• Some hospitals will give a 5% discount
to people over 65, but you must ask for it.
Other hospitals will give you a discount if
you purchase a discount card for $2 per
year.
• Doctors will not see you until you have
had your blood pressure taken and weight
recorded by nurses…even if you have just
stubbed your toe.
• Many doctors have been internationally
trained, and most speak English.
• If you need to see a specialist, you can
visit a hospital without an appointment.
Waiting time is short.
• The major hospitals have an English-
speaking interpreter just in case the triage
staff don’t quite understand your issue.
Just ask for an interpreter.
• Parking at hospitals is free.
© STEVEN KING/INTERNATIONAL LIVING

Sandy beaches on the Arco Seco coast of Panama stretch for miles along the Pacific.
A California Beach Lifestyle
for Less in Coronado
Jessica Ramesch
F rom the glittering lights of
downtown Panama City, it’s an
hour’s drive to the little beach hub
of Coronado. In a matter of minutes,
there’s a drastic change of view. Zip past
the gleaming skyscrapers that line the
half-moon of Panama Bay and over the
historic Bridge of the Americas, and
suddenly, you’re in the country.
The PanAmerican Highway snakes
through the deep green hills of the Altos
de Campana national park before taking
you through one little beach town after
another. They beckon with swaying palms
and pristine sands...no crowds, no noise.
Just the invigorating salt air and warm
waters of the tropical Pacific.
It’s here that Judy Whaling and
husband, Andy, have started a new life.
Close to the cosmopolitan capital, with its
sparkling nightlife. Mere minutes from
the expansive beach. They can dine in the
city’s gourmet restaurants anytime they
like. And they can see the deep blue of the
water from their apartment in Coronado.
It’s a retirement lifestyle they couldn’t
have afforded back in California…
A psychotherapist, registered nurse,
and business/life coach, Judy was work-
lifestyle
ing hard back in 2011. The kids were in
college, Andy had retired from his work
(also as a psychotherapist), and she was
just about ready to join him. Then she saw
an episode of House Hunters International,
which showcases people looking for
homes outside the United States. It was
an “Aha!” moment…the answer she didn’t
know she’d been looking for.
“We knew we could not afford to stay
in California,” she says. “So we thought,
well…what about living someplace where
you’d love to vacation? You could get up
every morning and, instead of wishing
you could stay on vacay, you could say, ‘I
live here.’”
Judy and Andy had been to beautiful
beaches in the Caribbean, but with no
major city within easy striking distance,
they just didn’t speak to her. She’d been
spoiled for choice in California, where she
could have any cuisine, and nearly any
comfort or convenience. She didn’t want
to give up too much in moving away.
“International Living was amazing
because it rated different countries and
explained the criteria,” says Judy. Panama
checked a lot of boxes—in particular,
she and Andy felt the country welcomed
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
14
foreigners wanting to stay long-term.
They visited four times and zeroed in on
Coronado—a convenient beach town close
to the bustling capital.
In Coronado, a couple can live well on
$2,800 a month, including a nice apart-
ment rental of $1,500 a month. It’s not
the cheapest community here—there are
folks living in Panama on less than $2,000
a month. But the location and climate are
hard to beat.
This coastal region of Panama is known
as the Arco Seco, or the dry arc. Rainfall
is only 60-70 inches per year, compared to
100-120 in the mountains and on the Carib-
bean. Most every morning is sunny and
bright, with average temperatures around
88 F during the day. As soon as the sun is
gone, the air cools to about 78 F.
Ocean breezes entice residents to keep
windows and balcony doors open…all the
better to hear the sound of the waves. “I
wanted to be able to hear the ocean. From
the building we are in, I can hear it part of
the year, and that’s perfect. That just feeds
my heart,” says Judy.
Coronado has a bit of a hodgepodge
look to it. The beach is white coral-based
sand intercut with dashes and swirls of
glittering black. And unlike Panama’s
colonial towns, Coronado doesn’t have a
main plaza set in the center of an orderly
grid. Not all of the meandering lanes are
well-paved, and houses run the gamut.
You’ll see humble little cottages, mansions
on grand fincas (large plots of land), and
everything in between. There’s a security
gate between the commercial and residen-
tial area, but most visitors’ cars are waved
through with little ceremony.
Still, you shouldn’t be deceived by
Coronado’s unassuming appearance. Many
of Panama’s wealthy families have homes
here, and the expat community is active
and well-organized. “Golfers meet new
people on and off the course, before and
after games. And we are part of a church
here,” says Judy, adding that the group has
helped her meet people and get involved.
“Some of the ladies make blankets
© HUGO GHIARA/INTERNATIONAL LIVING
and collect clothing for the less fortunate.
I joined a group that went into schools
to help teach kids what to do with trash.
There are also beach cleanups and Spay the
Strays always needs volunteers…you can
keep yourself very busy. There is an expat
lady who hosts a lot of games. I play mah-
jong on Tuesdays, and others go for bridge
or dominoes.” A local restaurant, Picasso,
has become something of a community
center in Coronado. “It helps the social
life a lot,” Judy explains. “Lots of people
go to their Tuesday morning market and
Wednesday night happy hour—it’s great
if you’re new.
“Now we have a couple pickleball
groups and bocce at a community nearby.
And another expat, Louise Belisle, pro-
vides a tremendous community service,”
she adds. Louise is the president of CASA
(the Coronado Area Social Association),
which helps people network by hosting
social activities and charitable events,
and by posting informative newsletters.
“She even tells us about local holidays
and gives us little tips. You can plug into
the Coronado expat community through
CASA or All Things Coronado on Face-
book, or see Playacommunity.com, and find
out what’s going on—no need to ever sit
home alone.”
Of course, no place is perfect, and
there will always be new challenges, no
matter where you move. “We’ve made
friends, and we’ve seen friends leave,”
says Judy, adding that it’s important to
understand that expat communities are
dynamic. “People are going to come, and
people are going to go.”
Then there’s the—er, interesting
way people drive in Latin America. “It’s
frenetic. Or perhaps ‘spirited’ is the best
word,” says Judy. “We do drive here, but
we managed for our first seven months
with no car, and it was fine. We would get
Bright, warm, and clean, the views in Coronado are reminiscent of 1950s Ventura County.
the cellphone numbers of taxi drivers or
private drivers and call when we needed
them.
“Now we’re learning to take buses, and
we prefer that. Coronado is a stop for big
Greyhound-type buses to Panama City. We
pay less than $5 each thanks to Panama’s
retiree discounts. Instead of dealing with
traffic ,we sit in air conditioning and enjoy
more of the view, since on buses the seats
are higher up.”
Judy remembers a time when Coronado
wasn’t quite as convenient. Over the past
10 years, it has transformed.
Much of what used to
require a drive to the capital “Blown away
can now be accomplished
right in Coronado. There
by what $1,200
are banks, shops, and even a month gets
a new movie theater. One
of Judy’s favorite additions you.”
is the Arrocha, a drugstore
with sections for gifts, beauty products,
kitchen and home décor items, and more.
“I’m so happy,” she says. “There’s also a
mall that’s very First World; I enjoy just
walking through it, even if I don’t need to
buy anything.”
Having an upscale Riba Smith super-
market is another plus—not too long ago
these were only found in Panama City.
“It’s helped because we missed places like
Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods,” says Judy.
There are more restaurants in and
around Coronado these days, too. “There’s
a restaurant and resort in Ensenada that’s
just beautiful, with views of the ocean.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
15
They have two-for-one sushi on Wednes-
days. A lot of the fast-food places around
here deliver…Papa John’s Pizza, Subway…
it’s very convenient,” she says.
For more impressive fare, however,
there’s Panama City. “We are city people,
and from Coronado we don’t have to get on
a plane to get somewhere cosmopolitan—
that’s so important,” says Judy. “There are
amazing restaurants in Panama City that
are not expensive. I can get Thai, Chinese,
Argentinean, British—you name it.”
“We go once a month with a group we
met through the American
Society of Panama. Last
time we went to a Scottish
pub called The Wallace—the
food and the décor were
phenomenal. In Southern
California we would’ve paid
three times as much for
lunch somewhere like that.”
With the Panama City-Coronado
region as their hub, Judy and Andy have
also been able to indulge a love of travel.
“There’s lots to see in Panama. We’ve been
to Bocas del Toro, San Blas, Boquete…we’ve
even driven to Costa Rica,” says Judy.
Travel to California is easy enough—
there are direct flights to Los Angeles and
San Francisco—but Judy and Andy prefer
to bring their two sons down to Panama
for visits. “Last year they were both here,”
says Judy. “Our eldest stayed a month,
and I think eventually he wants to move
here. He was blown away by what $1,200
a month gets you in Panama City versus
Bellevue, Washington.”
“We know that IL recommends renting
before you buy, but we didn’t do that,” she
laughs. “When we came out to Coronado
and saw that we could get a view for less
than a quarter of a million dollars, we said
right away, ‘We’re in!’ It was like a dream
come true.”
Being able to see and walk on the beach
whenever she wants, Judy is content. “As
a native Californian I remember a time
when I could always get to the beach easily.
I’d say ‘I want to study on the beach’ and
be there in 15 minutes,” says Judy. Later,
as traffic increased, that was no longer
the case. “And I couldn’t afford a view in
© GEORGEPETERS/iSTOCK
Southern California...not even for the
weekend. Now, here I am in Coronado,
looking out my bedroom window, and I
see miles of shoreline, and mountains, too.
This is gold to us…we struck gold.” n
 exploration

S eeing New York City for the first

time is as much a confirmation as an
exploration. A lifetime of cop shows,
romantic comedies, and music videos
makes every brownstone fire department,
yellow cab, or hot dog stand seem
familiar. And, although less pronounced,
something similar happened when I got to
Dénia, on Spain’s Costa Blanca.
OK, that’s as far as the comparison
goes. Dénia doesn’t have any skyscrapers,
baseball fields, or Wall Street traders, but it
does come with an aura of expectation. In
the 13 years I lived in Spain, Dénia featured
in countless conversations. The mention
of its name was usually accompanied by
a longing sigh and a wistful gaze into the
middle distance.
Dénia is the vacation town that Span-
iards spend the winter months longing From Eric and Amalia’s apartment balcony, Dénia’s sea view stretches to the horizon.
for. It’s the place where they make those
childhood memories—the ones where
summer lasted half a lifetime and was
spent barefoot, paddling in rockpools, and
A Beach Town for Food Lovers
running across hot sand. High-powered
Madrid CEOs and hedge-fund managers
turn back into little kids when they hear
on Spain’s Mediterranean
the name “Dénia,” and launch into stories Seán Keenan
about the massive dorado they once caught
from their uncle’s skiff or the time they town, the remnants of multiple civiliza- leged location, is how little known Dénia
climbed the castle’s walls. If Huck Finn had tions are visible, underlining the fact that is outside of Spain. That’s largely because
Jackson’s Island to escape to, for the well- this area—fronted by a deep harbor, shel- the industry of mass tourism on the Costa
to-do Spaniard, it’s this meandering little tered by steep mountains, watered by con- Blanca has mostly been focused elsewhere.
hill town on the Mediterranean coast. stant freshwater streams, and blessed with Valencia, some 60 miles north, is the
From the imposing castle at its pinna- year-round sunshine—was as well thought commercial and cultural hub of the region.
cle, Dénia town spreads out, blanket-like, of by Iberians, Greeks, and Romans as it is It’s there that you’ll find the international
to the edge of the sea. The Montgó massif by Spaniards today. airport with flights to European cities, and
towers to the south—a craggy escarpment Spain has been slow to recover from where the standard attractions of any major
of exposed limestone jutting into the sea. the economic crisis of 2008. One knock-on city are available. Universities, hospitals,
Montgó is today most important as a effect of that is that the real estate market and big box stores cluster around Valencia’s
designated natural park, and the green lung is highly competitive in places like Dénia, major routes, while closer in to the city
that gives the surrounding region such where luxurious second homes and vaca- center the more cultural amenities start—
remarkable air quality. That’s no exaggera- tion apartments—a financial burden to theaters, galleries, museums, and the like.
tion—just standing around taking deep their current owners—are still coming up South from Dénia, about the same
breaths is a rewarding pastime in Dénia. for sale with regularity. distance away as Valencia, is Alicante. It’s
Every lungful is a hearty dose of tangy sea Real estate agents are plentiful in town another city, smaller than Valencia, with
air with just a hint of menthol freshness. and are geared to an international clien- a population around a third of a million
The mountain road which climbs tele. There’s no difficulty finding one who (Valencia’s is almost 800,000). Since the
Montgó to the clifftops at the Cabo San speaks good English. Rent for a modern 1970s, Alicante airport has been a conduit
Antonio viewpoint twists through miles 800-square-foot, two-bedroom, one- for the flow of tourists to the Costa Blanca
© SEAN KEENAN/INTERNATIONAL LIVING

of forested uplands, where the vegetation
noticeably changes with elevation. Palm
trees at the base give way to olive groves,
wild lavender, and rock rose blooms in the
mid-section, then pine forest at the upper
levels. It’s a geography lesson on microcli-
mates within a five-mile drive.
Down on the flatlands around Dénia
bathroom apartment with outdoor terrace,
community garden, and pool can be as low
as $675 a month. A three-bedroom, two
bathroom, 1,800-square-foot house with
sea views, garden, and terrace is on the
market for a shade under $200,000. (See:
Facebook.com/Sol4Life.es)
What’s surprising, for such a privi-
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
16
on affordable package vacations. And
while the purpose-developed resorts in
the immediate vicinity of Alicante have,
for decades, hosted droves of northern
Europeans in search of sunshine, Dénia is
just beyond the zone where that short-stay
tourism is focused.
What’s more, there’s the beating heart
 of a regional market town in Dénia that
is independent of the tourist trade. While
the resorts to the south effectively close
down from October to May, the year-round
population of 40,000 is sufficient to keep
things ticking over in Dénia, whatever the
month. Certainly, it’s more crowded in July
and August (when all those Madrid CEOs
and hedge-fund managers are in town),
but the bars, restaurants, market, banks,
and supermarkets stay open throughout
the year.
That makes Dénia a real prospect as a
long-term retirement destination. And it’s
a truly pretty place to live, too. The narrow
streets of the old town are lined with bars
and restaurants, each with rows of outdoor
seating where it’s easy to while away an
evening over dinner, watching the people
out on their evening paseo under the blos-
soming jacaranda trees and towering date
palms which punctuate the handsome
19th-century architecture.
The town is a gastronomic hub, where
freshly caught seafood takes pride of place
arrayed on top of piping-hot paella, or
platefuls of the local specialty—a spe-
cies of red shrimp which only thrives in
the warm waters between Dénia and the
Balearic Islands—are washedBay ofdown
Biscay with a
cold glass of lightly sparkling white wine.
Don’t expect either of these local delicacies
to come cheap—they’re treats for special
occasions. Paella is a traditional blow-out
meal for Sunday lunch, and red shrimp are
a seasonal (and highly prized) indulgence.
Even so, you’ll be hard-pressed to spend
more than $25 on a plateful of either, and
that includes the wine.
Dining options in Dénia include the
down-home family places that thrive all
over Spain—tables in front (usually with
a few gentlemen indulging in tapas, small
bottles of beer, and animated rounds of
the card game mus), with a dining area
in a separate room behind the bar. These
are a national treasure. When you find a
good one, it’s some of the best small-scale,
home-style cooking you’ll come across
anywhere. Search for chalkboards outside
bars announcing “Menú del Dia.” Three
courses, usually with a choice of meat or
fish for the main, often including a coffee,
and always including simple but very pal-
atable wine, runs from $10 to $15.
At the other end of the scale, the res-
taurants at the lower end of the old town,
close to the marina, offer upscale inter-
Granada
Golfo AlmeriaINTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
de Cadiz
Malaga
national cuisine in stylish (and highly
styled) restaurants. Quique Dacosta,
on the seafront, boasts three Michelin
stars. El Raset, and Peix y Brases are both
Michelin-rated too, with their sights
firmly set on Dacosta’s coveted ratings.
Fine food, eaten in comfortable sur-
roundings, is a fundamental part of the
culture in Dénia. Expats here take that
seriously too. Every one of the expats I
met in Dénia shared a meal with me, and
each time, it was convivial, unhurried,
and within sight of the sea. There’s more
to the “Mediterranean diet” than the
ingredients on the plate, and
taking the time to prepare
good food, relax, and chat
“Convivial,
around the table may be part
of the reason Spaniards enjoy
unhurried
some of the longest lifespans meals in sight
in the world.
I certainly ate well when of the sea.”
I visited Eric Trujillo and
Amalia Maloney del Riego, who moved to
Dénia from Denver, Colorado in June 2015.
The plates of local charcuterie, cheeses,
olives, and juicy, ripe fruit prepared for
my visit were delectable.
I met them in their apartment on the
south side of town, where the narrow
alleys of the medieval quarter widen out
into grand boulevards lined with hand-
some 21st-century condo buildings of
around 10 to 12 floors high. Normally, the
temptation would be to call this area the
“new town,” except that right in front
of their building are the newly exposed
foundations of a Greco-Roman villa—a
couple of thousand years old.
“Dénia is a series of layers,” Amalia
says. “Every time they zone a new build-
ing area, there’s an archaeological dig
Balearic
Sea
SPAIN
Madrid BALEARIC
Alicante ISLANDS
Valencia
Adriatic
Sea
Dénia Ibiza
Jávea
Altea Isla de
Alicante Formentera
Mediterranean
Murcia Sea
Cartagena
17
to make sure there’s nothing important
underneath. There nearly always is though,
and the deeper they dig, the older it gets.”
In fact, Dénia’s name is derived from the
Roman goddess Diana. The Romans weren’t
the first to settle here, but the name stuck.
Like many expats I met there, Eric
and Amalia ended up in Dénia by chance.
Eric, who works remotely in design and
media, was offered a contract in Madrid
some years ago. The job fell through, but
not before he’d had time to explore some
of Spain. Spain’s southern coast appealed
initially. “It’s nice,” Eric says, “but it was
a little too touristy for our
taste.” The search contin-
ued, up to the east coast. “I
have some friends in Valen-
cia that I was visiting, and
I was scoping the city out
as a place to move to,” Eric
continues.
A day trip to the beach
at Dénia turned into a revelatory moment,
and over the course of a couple more visits,
Eric and Amalia realized that this could be
the perfect place for them to live. “I love to
sail,” Eric says, “although it’s been years
since I’ve had the chance to do so. Now
we’re living right next to a marina, I hope
to take that up again.”
They walk me through their three-
bedroom, three-bathroom duplex apart-
ment, whichGulf ofis
Lion
delightfully bright and
detailed with the decorative touches you
would expect from two people whose work
involves design and artistry (Amalia is a
website designer, travel blogger, and pho-
tographer). Every room has a sea view, and
the largest of their terraces has space for
a table, chairs, lounge area, and barbecue
corner. The other three terraces are smaller,
but still large enough for a couple of loung-
ers to catch the morning sun.
“It’s great value here compared to the
Minorca
U.S. This all comes in at $1,000 a month in
rent. Utilities are very affordable compared
to the States, too,” Amalia says. “We down-
sized when Majorca
we came, just bringing what we
couldIslafitdeinto a couple of suitcases. We’re
reallyCabera
happy with the light feeling of living
like this, and our landlord is happy with
having us as tenants, because we look after
the place well and pay our rent on time.”
As the warm evening darkened to night,
and the thyme-scented mountain air blew
gently over the fine sand of Dénia’s beach, I
couldn’t help but feel a pang of envy. n

Perfect weather for coffee is perfect for people too. Manizales is just one of the affordable, healthy towns in the Coffee Triangle.
Colombia’s Coffee Triangle: Latin America’s
Best-Value Highlands Region
I ’m sitting in a well-landscaped, tidy
city park, watching school kids run
off to class, meticulously dressed
businesspeople rush to work, and retirees
animatedly talk to friends. I’ve just had
a filling lunch of soup, salad, and grilled
chicken ($2.50) and need to take a break.
The sky is blue, with a few clouds. The
temperature is a pleasant 75 F in the mid-
dle of the day. I follow the example of many
other people relaxing in the park, and call
to one of the vendors with wheeled carts
and large Thermoses who are strolling
through. Soon I’m sipping on a shot glass-
sized plastic cup of tinto. (Tinto in Colom-
bian Spanish refers to black coffee.) It set
me back 500 pesos (17 cents).
Coffee is a big deal in this part of the
world, Colombia’s Eje Cafetero (Coffee Tri-
angle in English), whether you’re partak-
ing of tinto from a sidewalk stand or enjoy-
ing a cappuccino in a hip, cozy café. It’s
a mountainous region south of the expat
haven of Medellín and west of the capital,
feature story
Jason Holland
Bogotá, and it encompasses the provinces
of Risaralda, Quindío, and Caldas.
Medellín is Colombia’s expat hot spot
these days; it’s a world-class city. But the
cities of the Coffee Triangle have a lot to
offer.
In the countryside, you’ll find hills—
sometimes impossibly steep—blanketed
with arabica coffee plants,
said to be some of the best
beans in the world. It’s a “Perfect
major export. Little villages
and isolated farmhouses dot
spring-like
the landscape, which is lush temperatures
and covered in a hundred
shades of green. year-round.”
The Coffee Triangle is in
the tropics, quite close to the equator. But,
because it’s 5,000 to 7,000 feet in elevation,
this region experiences spring-like tem-
peratures (70s F during the day and 60s F at
night, typically) year-round. Perfect coffee-
growing weather—perfect for people, too.
But there’s more to the Coffee Triangle
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
18
than its world-famous coffee. Its cities
and provincial capitals of Pereira, Arme-
nia, and Manizales are sophisticated but
unpretentious. Large enough—with pop-
ulations between 300,000 and 700,000—
that you can get anything you might need
to live comfortably…but manageable
enough that you can travel across town by
taxi in 20 minutes.
This region was settled
in the mid-19th century by
people who traveled the
then-treacherous route
over the Andes Mountains
from Medellín. Today the
Coffee Triangle still draws
big-city Colombians who
are searching for a quieter existence but
don’t want to sacrifice convenience or
services. Here those same amenities,
© JASON HOLLAND
quality infrastructure, ideal climate, and
top-notch medical care come at an afford-
able price. And the hospitable locales
have drawn a small number of pioneering
expats from all corners of the globe.
Perhaps one of the biggest benefits
attracting expats here is the cost of living:
Those on the ground tell me that it is about
20% less than already affordable Medellín.
A typical local meal costs $2 to $3 for
a plate of rice, an arepa (cornbread roll), a
soup or stew, salad, and chicken or pork.
Upscale restaurant dishes are still under
$10. At the market, a pound of avocados
will set you back $1.50. A pound of chicken
breast, $3. A six-pack of a local beer like
Club Colombia is about $3.
All told, a couple can live comfortably
on $1,500 to $2,000, if not less. Simply put,
it’s one of the most affordable highland
destinations in Latin America—especially
when you consider the cost of real estate.
Two- or three-bedroom condos in the best
neighborhoods start at $60,000. One expat
told me about one-bedroom units he had
his eye on; being constructed right now,
they’re priced at $30,000.
“I can take three people to dinner.
Appetizers, dinner, wine, beer, and walk
away for about $60, and that’s at a nice
restaurant,” says Deborah Millonig, in
Manizales. “I can live here, because my
house is paid for, on $500 a month. That’s
for everything: going out, my health insur- move to a foreign country and just live
ance, all my utilities, groceries, entertain-
ment, and food. My typical electric bill is,
on average, about $20 a month. A gas bill
is about the same. A water bill, as well as
trash…that is about $50.”
“I guess I could have stayed in the
States for retirement,” notes Sandra
Xyone, 62, a retired accountant from
Minnesota. “But my standard of living
would’ve been lower. The dollars from my
pension go a lot further here. I’m actually
saving money here.”
There are some things to consider.
Because tourism is still in the nascent
stages here, and the expat population is
relatively small, learning some Spanish is
important if you are to enjoy the full expe-
rience. You’ll also find that, without the
active expat community present in more
established destinations like Medellín,
you’ll be more immersed in the local
culture.
Deborah, 64, has lived in Manizales for
two years and counting…
“My Spanish is as horrible as ever,” says
Deborah, laughing. “It’s amazing how I get
around. But in Manizales—you find more
young people who speak English. When
THREE FUN ADVENTURES
IN THE COFFEE TRIANGLE
In between the Coffee Triangle’s three
major cities is a variety of lush countryside
to explore, including national parks, colonial
villages, and vast coffee plantations, within
a couple of hours’ drive.
Salento, about 45 minutes from Arme-
nia and easily reached by bus, is a village
with brightly painted colonial buildings.
It’s become a tourist favorite, but you can
still get a good idea of what small-town
Colombia is like by strolling around the
main plaza and Calle Real, which features
plenty of shops, restaurants, and more.
For fans of nature and wildlife, you
have options. The world’s tallest palm tree,
the wax palm, grows to 200 feet tall and
can be found in the Cocora Valley and the
Los Nevados National Natural Park. Tour
companies offering hiking and bird-watch-
they find out you speak English, they
want to talk. I deliberately tried to live in
an area that didn’t have many expats. Why
around a bunch of Americans?”
Pereira—A Manageable Metropolis
The largest of the Coffee Triangle’s major
cities, Pereira has a population of about
700,000, if you count the whole metro
area. It has a small airport that hosts some
Santa Marta
international airlines,Barranquilla
but it’s mostly in-
country, with daily flights from Medellín,
Cartagena
Bogotá,Caribbean
and other
Sea
cities in Colombia.
Maracaibo
As with the other cities in the region,
Panama most people here live in apartments or
G olfo
De
Pa n a ma
PANAMA
VENEZUELA
Medellín
Manizales
Pereira
Bogota
Pacific Armenia
Ocean
COLOMBIA
ECUADOR
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
19
ing expeditions can be found in Salento.
Adventure sports like mountain biking and
rafting are also popular. For tours here and
elsewhere in the region (and the rest of
Colombia), check out Colombia Eco Travel
(Colombiaeco.travel).
You can’t visit the Coffee Triangle
without checking out a working coffee
plantation. There are tours of several in
the area that show how arabica beans are
grown, harvested, and then processed into
coffee coveted around the world. A real
sense of pride in this regional crop is on
display, as well. There is a very well-rated
tour of the family-run Finca Don Manolo,
just 15 minutes outside Pereira. You can
get contact details and directions here:
Pereiracityguide.com/places/don-manolo-
coffee-farm-pereira.
condos. Buildings often have a doorman,
and some have amenities like swimming
pools. On the outskirts, you find gated
communities with townhouses or even
single-family homes.
Some people live in Pereira’s centro,
which is lively at all hours. The Plaza de
Bolívar is the main plaza, with Parque
El Lago or Parque La Libertad, to the
Aruba
(Neth.)
east and west, respectively, providing
Curacao
Bonaire
Netherlands Antilles
other places to enjoy an afternoon. In
Golfo de
Venezuela
(Neth.)
between, you find the main pedestrian
avenues, their sidewalks crowded with
Lago de
vendors selling fresh fruit and smoothies,
cellphone accessories, apparel, and more.
Cumbia music blares from open shop
fronts. It’s a classic Latin American city;
you feel a vibrancy just walking through
the crowd.
Have lunch or a beer at the restaurant/
lounge on the rooftop of Hotel Soratama,
on the plaza’s north side, to get a bird’s-
eye view of the only naked Bolívar statue
(modesty is preserved). You can also see
the city skyline spread out in all direc-
tions. For breakfast or coffee drinks any
time of day, local blogger and guidebook
publisher Erin Donaldson recommends
La Lucerna, a local institution opened in
1959 by a Swiss immigrant.
Erin, from Reno, Nevada, has lived
BRAZIL
in town for five years. Her Pereira City
Guide (Pereiracityguide.com) is an excellent
resource for travelers, expats, and locals in
the city and the rest of the Coffee Triangle.
Well-to-do locals live in the neighbor-
hoods on either side of the Circunvalar.
It’s a broad avenue on the southeast side of
town that snakes up the hill into Pinares,
Los Alamos, and Los Alpes. This is also
the main shopping, dining, and enter-
tainment district, with sushi restaurants,
dance clubs, and upscale burger stands in
open-air food courts.
As in many Latin American countries,
this area is known as the
Zona Rosa. The local mall
has Spanish clothing brand “I’ve been
Zara, Nike, and high-end
department stores and big-
invited to
box grocery/home goods homes for
chains. But there are local
touches, too. Restaurante dinner.”
Latino features chef-created
dishes inspired by Colombia’s Caribbean
coast. For imported grocery items like
cheddar cheese, soy sauce, or fine wines,
head to Carulla; it’s a national chain.
Erin also turned me on to the Tipsy
Bird Bar in Hotel Movich. It’s in the heart
of the district, a perfect place to enjoy a
craft cocktail and live Latin music or jazz
and other entertainment among smartly
dressed couples and groups of friends.
In this neighborhood I also came
across Megacentro Pinares Torres Médicas,
a medical center—two towers, 13 stories
each, with dentists, doctors of every
specialty, diagnostic testing, and imag-
ing labs. A one-stop shop for everything
medical.
Sandra has lived in Pereira for nearly a
year. She first came to Colombia 41 years
ago to teach English and later vacationed
in 2005.
“I had dreams about Colombia ever
since,” says the former accountant from
the Midwest.
Sandra settled on Pereira because it
was a city…but not too big.
“Pereira es un pueblo grande,” says San-
dra—it’s a “big village,” in other words.
“You can’t be brusque. Conversation is
important. It’s a slower pace. It’s very
friendly here. In fact, Pereira is known as
the city without doors.
“When I told friends I was moving to
Colombia, they had concerns. But I feel
just as safe here as in the States.”
She also likes the temperate climate.
There are hot spells, she says, but not
enough to need air conditioning. She does
fine with a fan. Sandra rents a room for
$140 a month. Her other costs are low, too.
“I like all the fresh fruits and vegeta-
bles here. I have a list of exotic fruits I’m
going through. For the month, I spend
$200 for all my food—that’s eating out,
too. I have a toy poodle, and in the U.S. I
spent $40 every month on a dog haircut.
Here it’s 20,000 pesos ($7),” says Sandra.
“I want to travel…to Machu Picchu, the
Amazon, the Galápagos…and with the
money I save, I’ll be able to
do that.”
Real estate for sale is
reasonable in Pereira. A
three-bedroom condo in
the Providencia neighbor-
hood, just south of down-
town, is listed for $53,250.
It comes with a pool and a
24-hour doorman. Near Plaza de Bolívar,
in centro, is a five-bedroom home for
$88,750. In Pinares, one of Pereira’s most
desirable districts, is a three-bedroom
condo for $86,975. See: Genteycasas.com
and Starealtycolombia.com.
In Los Alpes, another of the city’s
premier neighborhoods, is a three-bed-
room condo (four if you count the maid’s
quarters) for $99,400. If you prefer more
suburban living, a three-bedroom town-
house in a gated community in Cerritos,
on the outskirts of the west side of town,
is available for $66,740. See: Encuentra24.
com and Administrabienesraices.com.
Armenia—Small but Sophisticated
“It offers a good quality of life for a good
cost,” says Lou Nesbitt of his adopted city,
Armenia, the smallest of the Coffee Tri-
angle’s trio of major metropolises. “A lot
of people from Bogotá retire here because
their peso stretches further.”
One of Lou’s favorite hangouts is the
recently opened branch of microbrewery
and craft beer bar Bogotá Beer Company,
which offers up India Pale Ales, Golden
Lagers, and other specialty beers. (There
are locations in Pereira and Manizales, as
well.)
Lou, who’s been in Armenia since
2016, likes it so much he is thinking of
buying a place. He has his eye on new
construction: one-bedroom apartments
for $30,000. A public school teacher origi-
nally from New York City, Lou teaches
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
20
English to kids as part of a Colombian
government program, Colombia Bilingüe.
Here the action is on the north side of
town, along Carretera 14, which is the main
drag in neighborhoods like Los Laureles.
This is the best area for expats. Although
Armenia is smaller than Pereira, with
about 300,000 residents, it has everything
you need for shopping, dining, and enter-
tainment. The international airport mostly
runs to Medellín and Bogotá for under
$100, round-trip. But there is also a direct
flight to Fort Lauderdale.
“There is a different energy here in
Armenia. It’s peaceful…laidback. It’s a
very walkable city in the center. People
are very friendly and ready to help. People
are interested in you as an extranjero… I’ve
even been invited to homes for dinner a few
times,” says Lou.
Although he has access to a kitchen,
Lou prefers to eat out to get to know the
community and its people better. He
spends about $7 - $10 for three meals a day.
An occasional hour-long massage runs
him $10.50. Medical and dental costs are
low here, too. One of Lou’s friends needed
braces; the cost in the U.S. was $2,000, but
the work was done in Colombia for $500.
“The quality of work is the same here,”
says Lou. “Many of the doctors and dentists
trained in the States. There is very afford-
able plastic surgery.”
A three-bedroom condo with com-
munity pool, sports fields, and 24-hour
doorman is listed for sale for $30,175. A
studio apartment can be had for $22,750.
See: Encuentra24.com and Administrabienes-
raices.com.
Manizales—A University Town
In Manizales I stumbled upon a bit of
avant-garde theater. I was passing by the
Juan Valdez Café at El Cable Plaza, in the
heart of the city’s top district, when I saw
a crowd gathered, roaring with laughter. It
was a troupe of vividly costumed charac-
ters offering biting and bawdy satirical
takes on world politics, the Colombian
government, and society.
I was having a latte there the next day,
sitting at a high-top table, and had just
spoken to a local expat, when I was again
treated to a performance. This time a group
of black-clad dancers gyrated energetically
to bass-heavy dancehall music in the same
spot. They were in a circle, taking turns
to show off their moves in the middle. It

HIGH MARKS FOR HEALTHCARE
Healthcare in general is high quality and
low cost in Colombia. In fact, 22 of the top
43 hospitals in Latin America are located
here. While these facilities are clustered in
major cities like Medellín and Bogotá, the
hospitals and clinics in the Coffee Triangle
are also well regarded.
Once you are an official resident of
Colombia, you can sign up for the gov-
ernment healthcare program, Entidades
Promotoras de Salud. The cost is 12.5%
of your monthly income per month, per
couple. Co-pays are very low—in some
cases, just a few dollars.
In general, you must be no more than
must happen often, because the crowd—a
mix of seniors, families, and hip college
kids—took it in stride.
Just another evening In Manizales,
in the lively district surrounding the
Cable Plaza, so named for its tall tower,
a replica of those that used to bear cable
cars transporting cargo around the city.
It was a practical solution, because unlike
Pereira, which is set in a wide valley, with
the urban area sprawling across its floor
and up into slopes, Manizales has a more
undulating topography.
The centro, with its poured-concrete
cathedral, Our Lady of the Rosary, and
Plaza de Bolívar, sits atop a ridge. It fea-
tures narrow streets alive with street ven-
dors and shops with products spilling out
onto the sidewalk. While I was in town,
Colombia was playing a fútbol game in the
run-up to the World Cup. National pride
was evident, with every fourth person—of
any age—wearing the team jersey. Groups
crowded around shop-window TVs to
watch the game.
Other districts are found at higher or
lower elevations; there are many dips and
rises. You certainly get your exercise walk-
ing around. Taxis are plentiful, however,
and they’re cheap, at an average of $2 a
ride. Double or triple that amount if you
need to cross town. Another option is to
take the modern cable cars that traverse
the peaks and valleys.
“I haven’t bought a car yet. The only
reason I would use a car would be to go
out of the city. Inside the city it’s much
easier to take a bus or taxi. I find it to be
60 years old to sign up for EPS. Once
you’re in…you’re covered for life. If you’re
older than 60, private insurance, known as
medecina prepagada, is an option, although
pre-existing conditions may be excluded. In
general, costs in Colombia are about a third
of what they would be in the U.S.
If you decide to pay cash, costs are low.
Here are some prices for typical proce-
dures:
Doctor visit (general practitioner): $15 to $20
Specialist visit: $40 to $50
Ultrasound: $30 to $50
CAT scan: $100 to $200
Dental checkup and cleaning: $30 to $40
one of the safest cities ever. I take a taxi to
meet people for dinner. I go to centro all
the time. I go everywhere,” says Deborah
Millonig.
With seven universities in town, a
significant portion of Manizales’s roughly
500,000 population is made up of stu-
dents. Their presence gives Manizales a
palpable energy.
Manizales has cooler weather (but still
comfortable at 70s F during the day and
50s F at night)—and somewhat unpre-
dictable conditions at times. My first
morning, I awoke to fogged-in conditions
and light, misty rain: chilly enough for
a sweater. By mid-afternoon it was blue
skies and t-shirt weather. As a taxi driver
told me, sometimes Manizales has four
seasons in one day.
I encountered some well-
dressed dogs in Manizales,
“$65,675 buys
in upscale neighborhoods
like Palermo, Milán, and
you a three-
La Estrella that are around bedroom
El Cable Plaza. Pure-bred
Schnauzers and French bull- apartment.”
dogs wear sweaters against
the early morning or early evening chill as
they stroll along Avenida Santander. The
owners were smartly dressed—either in
Sunday best (on a weekday) or workout
clothes. On Sundays a lane of traffic is
closed off to cars on this main artery. On
Friday and Saturday nights the sidewalks
are clogged with shoppers and partygo-
ers attracted by the shopping mall, movie
theaters, cafés, restaurants, bars, and
dance clubs.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
21
“There are not many expats. Not many
tourists. I think in Manizales you will find
a lot of, if anything, European travelers.
There are very few Americans. Because
most Americans still think if you go to
Colombia you won’t make it out alive. My
two daughters still think I’m insane,” says
Deborah.
Despite her struggles with Spanish,
Deborah has made many local friends.
One of their favorite things to do is to
check out the always-improving restau-
rant scene. Their favorites include a little
French restaurant, run by a French expat,
called The French Bistro. Other favorites
include Spago Bistronomía Italiana for
Italian and Restaurante Bologninis for
Argentine cuisine.
A favorite activity on a sunny after-
noon is to head to the Chipre neighbor-
hood, west of centro. Here a long park with
a wide, pedestrian-only walkway runs
along a ridge that drops steeply. From here
you can see the surrounding countryside
laid out before you; the bell towers of
churches in little villages are visible in the
distance and the hills are covered in coffee
plantations. Here families stroll. Vendors
selling fresh-brewed espresso, fruit juices,
ice cream, and little fried snacks line the
walkway.
Deborah lives in a three-bedroom
penthouse apartment with an expansive
terrace in the La Francia neighborhood.
She has to do a lot of renovation work
because it’s an older building. Renovation
is something she cautions against, because
of the shortage of qualified and reliable
contractors. She has actually
ended up doing much of the
work herself.
For those who prefer
something newer, in
the upscale Palermo
neighborhood, is a three-
bedroom apartment for
$88,750. For $65,675, you
can also find a three-bedroom apartment
in the nearby quiet Milán neighborhood.
A two-bedroom apartment along the
main Avenida Santander, which runs
through the best part of town, rents for
$568—but keep in mind that it could
get busy on the weekends. You can also
check out Milán for quieter digs. A two-
bedroom in the Milán neighborhood
rents for $319 a month, unfurnished. See:
Administrabienesraices.com. n

French sophistication and a growing population make Montpellier an interesting prospect.
The D.E.A.L. System: Four
Steps to Real Estate Profits
Ronan McMahon
S itting at the other end of a long
wooden table, my publisher wasn’t
amused. For my next book, she
wanted me to lay out my exact formula for
investing in real estate. It was a good idea.
Something readers would find valuable, IF
I had a formula...
“So you’re telling me, for the last 20
years, you’ve essentially been throwing
darts at a board blindfolded?” she asked.
Of course, I hadn’t. The problem is, I’ve
been learning about real estate investing as
far back as I can remember. It’s all I’ve ever
wanted to do (along with playing golf ).
Now I do it on an almost instinctive
level. The same way a boxer throws a com-
bination. Unthinking.
I have an aggressive goal: find real
estate opportunities with the potential to
double your money in five years or less.
To achieve this, I spend much of my
time traveling the globe. I’m just off the
back of a trip to Tulum on Mexico’s Riviera
Maya from where I traveled to London and
then on to Portugal’s Algarve.
My research team and I spend about
half a million dollars a year on travel and
research. I am on the road at least six
months of every year traveling and scout-
market watch
ing real estate.
But how do I decipher the spin of smil-
ing estate agents, see through the flashy
brochures, and decide if a deal is truly a
solid investment opportunity?
For the first time I’ve sat down,
thought about the patterns, and broken it
all down into the fundamentals I repeat-
edly look for. I am calling it The D.E.A.L.
System.
D.E.A.L. is a handy acronym for the
four major steps of analysis. They are:
• Discount
• Earning Potential
• Appreciation
• Leverage
I’m going to explain each of these steps
in more detail and give you a sneak peek
into the methodical approach I use to find
profitable real estate. As you’ll see, The
D.E.A.L. System has been designed to save
money and make money when buying real
estate overseas and to give you the best
possible chance to see a 100% gain in five
years or less.
Discount: Pay Less, Profit More
Poor ol’ Ebenezer Scrooge. His last name
has become a synonym of miser. But ask
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
22
any successful investor, and they’ll tell you
there’s nothing wrong with being tight-
fisted.
Take one recommendation I made in
2011: real estate in my home country of
Ireland. At the time, some property prices
were down 80% since the 2008 financial
crisis, and there were incredible bargains
to be had.
I highlighted a two-bedroom apart-
ment in Dublin’s financial district listed at
auction for $140,000. It sold for $197,000.
Apple, Google, Facebook, and more all have
huge offices nearby. It was a no-brainer
opportunity. Today, two-bedroom apart-
ments in the same area of Dublin sell for
almost $400,000. That’s a potential gain of
more than 100%. (That’s not including the
whopping $190,000 you could have made in
rental income since then.)
There are many reasons other than a
financial crisis why real estate might sell at
a discount. Maybe the seller is just desper-
ate to make a quick sale, or an inexperi-
enced developer has mispriced his condos.
When I’m on scouting trips, I’m looking
for anomalies like these and others, which
can cause real estate to be undervalued.
Earning Potential: Get Paid to Own Real
Estate
When I was young, my parents owned a
modest real estate portfolio in my home-
town of Cork, Ireland. One of my clearest
memories from then is my father explain-
ing rental income to me for the first time:
“Essentially, son, our tenants’ rent pays the
mortgage. So when all is said and done, it’s
like we’re getting a free house!”
The idea blew my young mind and set
me on course to become a real estate inves-
tor. After earning my degree in Finance,
I almost immediately began building my
own real estate mini-empire.
By buying discounted real estate in
prime locations, and targeting wealthy
young professionals, I was able to supersize
my rental yields. So not only was I making
enough to cover my mortgage and other
costs (i.e. getting a free house), I was pock-
eting extra cash, too.
But it wasn’t until I started investing
overseas, I realized how much more income
I could be making.
While you can do well in some places
© SAIKO3P/iSTOCK
in the U.S., according to Global Property
Guide, the average gross annual rental yield
in the United States is just 2.91%. In other
words, buy a $100,000 condo, and you
might only collect $2,910 per year ($242 per
month) in profit. That’s before taxes and
other costs.
But by investing in real estate overseas,
you have the chance to make double, even
triple what you might make at home.
For example, in Costa Rica the average
gross annual rental yield is 7.48%, more
than double the yield in the United States.
In other words, a home in Costa Rica pays
for itself twice as fast as in the U.S. And
you can make a lot more money than that.
Last year, I recommended micro-con-
dos in São Paulo, Brazil. As the name sug-
gests, micro-condos are tiny apartments a
few hundred square feet in
size. While you and I might
not want to live in one, “Make double,
they’re a hit with millenni-
als who want to live in the
even triple
center of a big city without what you’d
paying big city prices.
Because of the popu- make at home.”
lar city-center location, I
predict buyers will gross from 14% to 16%
from these in-demand micro-condos.
If you’ve bought real estate in the U.S.
or own dividend-paying stocks, you know
how rare it is to find a double-digit yield.
But when you’re a global real estate inves-
tor, you increase your chances of finding
fat yields because the world is your oyster.
Appreciation: The Big Payday
The other way to make money from real
estate is to simply wait for the value of
your holdings to appreciate.
Sometimes, this might mean wait-
ing decades. I’ve met plenty of real estate
investors with a 30-year time horizon.
Other times, this might mean waiting
months. Typically, like in the runup to the
2008 financial crisis, if you can resell for
a nice profit within months, you can bet
there’s something wrong with the market.
I usually target a happy medium
holding period of five years. By real estate
standards, that’s still short—unbelievably
so to some people—yet it’s realistic when
you buy real estate overseas.
The fact is, many Latin American,
Asian, and Eastern European countries are
considered emerging markets.
Investors are drawn to these emerging
markets for the chance of bigger, faster
gains, since these small economies still
have a lot of room for growth.
For example, according to data from
the World Bank, the GDP of the U.S. has
grown 224% since 1990. While that might
seem impressive, take a look at how it
compares to the GDP growth of emerg-
ing market countries over the same
period…340% in Mexico, 422% in Latvia,
455% in Thailand, and a whopping 868% in
tiny Panama.
Typically, fast-growing economies also
mean fast-growing real estate markets
because of the huge need for factories,
office space, living space, transportation
infrastructure, grocery stores, and so on.
So targeting these emerging market
countries can mean supersized and super-
fast real estate gains.
That was my experience
when I bought a pre-con-
struction city center condo
in Panama City, Panama
for $147,630 and sold it
shortly after completion for
$220,000.
You also typically have
demographics at play. Young, growing
populations and rising middle classes
with more money in their pockets, like in
Panama and Brazil.
A Word of Caution…
Chasing bigger rewards can also mean tak-
ing bigger risks. In fact, many emerging
markets have recently stalled and stum-
bled. But my long-term outlook on some of
them is still extremely bullish.
Take Brazil. Last year, Brazil’s GDP only
grew by a disappointing 1.1%.
But this doesn’t alarm me because
the bigger picture reveals Brazil’s true
potential. With $21.8 trillion in natural
resources, and a young population of 211
million (62% of Brazilians are aged 29 or
under), Brazil has all the resources and
demographics needed to become one of
the richest countries in the world.
In fact, right after the election of new
president Jair Bolsonaro, who is pro-mar-
ket and anti-corruption, Brazilian stocks
hit an all-time high.
If you are brave enough to look beyond
short-term road bumps, and look at the
bigger picture, you can make life-chang-
ing profits from overseas real estate.
Leverage: Get Rich With Other People’s
Money
Up until now, I’ve talked about the many
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
23
positives of investing overseas, but there is
one notable downside.
Depending on where you want to buy,
it can sometimes be difficult for foreigners
to get financing. The process can be drawn
out, rates might be sky-high, or maybe the
market is cash-only for foreigners.
None of this is ideal since one of the
biggest benefits of investing in real estate
is the opportunity to do so using other
people’s money through financing. This
lets you keep your powder dry for other
opportunities, and it also lets you harness
the wealth-multiplying power of leverage.
Let me show you what I mean...
Imagine a pre-construction condo priced
at $200,000. You buy the condo with
$40,000 down. So you are into the condo
for $40,000. If that condo rises in value by
$40,000 in the first six months, you have
doubled your money. On paper at least.
This is where the terms you buy at matter.
Or, think of this another way. You buy
a home in Portugal for $250,000. You put
up $50,000 of your own money and bor-
row the rest from a local bank at 2%. Then
you rent your home. For simplicity let’s
assume your rent only covers the interest.
In five years’ time if you sell for $400,000,
your gain is $150,000, or 300% of what you
invested.
So, finding real estate where financing
is an option is another top priority for me.
Conclusion
What you’ve just seen is just a quick
overview of The D.E.A.L. System that’s
hopefully given you some insight into how
I find opportunities to recommend to my
Real Estate Trend Alert members.
While I always look for a Discount,
Earning Potential, Appreciation, and
Leverage, getting all four is the Holy Grail
of overseas real estate investing and not
always realistic. Sometimes, appreciation
might seem weak, but potential rental
income is huge.
The D.E.A.L. System is just the start of
my filtering process. n
Editor’s Note: Ronan McMahon is
executive director of Pangea, IL’s preferred
real estate advertising partner. This
extract is from a report Ronan produced
for members of his Real Estate Trend Alert
group. Learn more about what Ronan
does and the opportunities he uncovers at
Intliving.com/RETA.

Teaching and Biking in
Beautiful Da Nang, Vietnam
Wendy Justice
O
“ n a typical day, I’ll get up early
and go for a walk either along the
river or down by the beach. Later,
I might visit with friends. Depending
on the weather, I’ll have lunch with my
girlfriend, I’ll visit a village, or I’ll go out
driving just to experience it. Then in the
afternoons and evenings, I teach English
and business to kids between the ages of
eight and 12—I do that four or five days
a week for about 20 hours total,” says
Sean Reddington, a 57-year-old native of
Mission Viejo, California.
Sean had survived a bout of cancer
and was feeling burned out with work, so
he made the decision to change his life
and live in a foreign country. He spent
14 months traveling around Asia from
Guam, where he had been living for the
previous five years. Now, he’s found the
perfect work-life balance, and he’s discov-
ering a lifestyle in Da Nang, Vietnam, that
he had only dreamed about in the past.
“I own a 150 cc motorbike. I haven’t
driven a car for a year and a half. It’s awe-
some. I fill up my scooter every eight days,
and it costs me $5. I drive maybe three
hours per week for my job, but that three
hours is so entertaining. I’ll see chaos in
Living in Da Nang costs Sean Reddington $1,200 a month, and that includes dining out frequently.
income overseas
the traffic circles and tiny motorbikes
honking at huge buses and I’m thinking,
‘Are you kidding me?’ When I drive, I’m
smiling and giggling. In California, I’d
often be angry or frustrated during my
commute. I enjoy it now—it’s way better
than what I had back in the States.
“Two or three times a week, I’ll go
riding around Son Tra Mountain, past the
towering Lady Buddha, to one of the little
secluded beaches. It’s very
peaceful; there are usually
a few vendors selling soft “I feel more
drinks and beer. I’ll bring
my snorkel gear along, go
at home here
for a swim, read a book, and than I did back
enjoy the peace and solitude.
Best of all, it’s only 10 or 15 in the States.”
minutes from Da Nang, so I
can go whenever I want.”
Sean has managed to live well work-
ing part-time at a local language school,
without having to dip into his retirement
fund. He says, “My goal is to not touch
my retirement money. I want to make
enough to live here without going into my
savings.” His budget, which includes fre-
quent dinners out with his girlfriend, is
$1,200 per month. “If I had stayed in Mis-
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
24
sion Viejo, and had a similar standard of
living, I’d be spending $5,000 per month.
I’d be working 45 or 50 hours per week and
commuting for another 20 hours.”
Sean enjoys teaching English and has
come up with some creative approaches.
“During the summer, we do art classes
in the park. We’ll also go shopping at the
supermarkets. The kids have a budget to
work with and they get a little real-life,
Western-style education. We spent an
entire week making juices, practicing
English along the way,” Sean says.
“I teach extra classes because I love it.
The children are always smiling,” he says.
“During Christmas, I played Santa Claus
and had 300 kids tugging on my beard. It
was so much fun. They’re so happy with
what they have, and not at
all envious of what the kid
next door has.”
Sean says that he has
a mix of local and expat
friends, but increasingly, his
friendships have been more
with the Vietnamese. “When
I moved here, I wanted to
connect with other expats, since I figured
I would have something in common with
them. But I was surprised at how much at
home I felt with the locals. I feel more at
home here than I did back in the States.”
Because his expenses are so low, Sean
lives comfortably in Da Nang. “I’m renting
a two-bedroom, 1,000 square-foot house
with a huge front patio in a nice, up-and-
coming neighborhood. I pay $500 per
month. It’s furnished, but I bought my
own mattress, an oven, and a few other
items. I have extra space because there is so
much storage.
“The patio has palm trees and potted
plants. It’s a tropical garden. I’ll get lizards
and frogs there singing at night—it’s like
having my own mini-orchestra. My place
is a two-minute drive from the beach and
a 10-second drive to the river. There are
some embassy houses nearby, so the police
keep a good eye on the neighborhood and
it feels very safe.”
Sean says that it was Da Nang’s long,
beautiful beach that attracted him, but the
© SAIKO3P/DREAMSTIME.COM
city had more surprises in store. “Da Nang
has so much more than a beautiful beach,”
he says. “There’s so much opportunity.
I’d like to open a bookstore here someday.
There are so many little niche opportuni-
ties here. It’s an awesome place.” n

White Beaches and Swaying
Palms: A Day Off in Belize
Laura Diffendal
W hen you pull up to Secret
Beach—a palm-fringed,
white-sand bay on the island
of Ambergris Caye, Belize—you’re faced
with a stretch of shabby-chic beach
clubs and bars, with cushioned loungers
bobbing on the Caribbean water, and
seats and tables where you can eat and
drink with your feet in the warm sea.
Secret beach is, in fact, no longer secret.
Although I am a business owner in
Belize, which keeps me busy, the best
advice I received from locals was to make
sure to always make time to have the
tropical, exotic experiences that make
Belize a world-class destination for
tourists and expats alike.
One of my problems is that when
I have a day off, there are quite a few
favorites to pick from, all equally good.
For work, I split my time between
Placencia and Ambergris Caye, but on
my last day off, I chose to do a few of my
favorite things on Ambergris.
I wanted to relax, so I decided to head
to Secret Beach. But before I left, I took
my dog for a long walk on the stretch
of beach right in San Pedro town. In the
Boca Del Rio area, this is a walk that
always turns into an experience. You
can wander among the wood carvers,
do some people-watching, all the while
enjoying the beach breeze, palm trees,
beautiful water view, and wonderful local
food aromas. It’s a definite mood booster
every time.
I stopped at a couple of my favorite
food stands, where I bought tomatoes,
cilantro, jalapenos, limes, and onions.
I got enough to make a huge bowl of
perfectly fresh salsa for the week, all for
under $10.
When you are looking to relax in
Belize, and get away from crowds, one
option is to head to the high-end resorts
on the island. It’s not something most
people would think of, but these places
will let you lounge and enjoy their
amenities and pool if you purchase
a drink or food at their bar. This is a
expat diary
Belize has so many deserted beaches that it’s
the developed ones that are the novelty.
wonderful way to recharge, and it’s much
more affordable than checking in for a
night.
If I wanted to stay here in town for
the day, I’d consider Trivioke at Crazy
Canucks—a quintessential palapa bar
overlooking the water, with
an expansive beach, artfully
weathered seating, and a “Pastel colors,
fun host and crowd. Trivia
contests there are always
clapboard
really fun, high-spirited buildings, and
events, with a great mix
of locals, tourists, and soft reggae.”
residents. After four rounds
of fun, with shots being given to the
losing teams each round, they end the
proceedings with karaoke.
But my mission today is the beach, not
a pool or karaoke bar. That’s for later.
On Secret Beach, there is live
music. Locals, tourists, and expats are
everywhere. The use of natural thatch and
wood mixed with Belizean fabric decor,
the wonderful local food, the tropical
drinks, and the service even in the water
make this a truly special experience. You
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
25
drive there in a golf cart, and getting
there is part of the fun.
I decided to have some lunch before
I set out, though. One of my favorite
things on a free day is a meal at the
Blue Water Grill—a really well-known
restaurant right in San Pedro town.
The sushi on Tuesday and Thursday
nights is crazy good, with super fresh
ingredients, served perfectly in an open-
air bar restaurant overlooking the sea.
Today’s lunchtime menu doesn’t feature
sushi, but there’s plenty of grilled fish,
salads, tacos, and sandwiches to choose
from. Fish tacos start at $10. It’s a perfect
location for the ideal lunch in a tropical
setting.
Secret Beach really was once a
secret—a place on the leeward side of
the island that only locals and residents
knew how to get to, with a treacherous
road on the way there. The end point was
worthwhile, but getting there was a pain.
Now though, the road is newly paved
and much easier to navigate. The spot
has also developed, with a bohemian,
Belizean vibe that is so fitting to this
Caribbean nook. Think pastel colors and
clapboard buildings, with a soft reggae
soundtrack.
The options and choices of fun to
have in the water are varied—jet skis,
floats, boats, snorkeling. Or you can just
walk as far as the eye can see in water that
never gets more than waist deep. In the
distance you can spot a string of sand
cayes, including Leonardo DiCaprio’s
own island. When I finally
arrived at the beach, all I
really wanted to do was
lounge, swim, and read a
book. So I did just that. It
was my day off, after all.
But there’s only so
much relaxing I can take,
and after a few hours, it
was time to head back and hit the town. I
enjoyed live music at the Miami Beach-
style Sunset Lounge, an open-air rooftop
bar overlooking San Pedro town. It’s a
fitting place to watch the sunset. The
event drew several fun expats who then
decided to end the night with karaoke at
a bar called Melt. The bar is situated over
© HENDRIKDB/iSTOCK
the water, with warm night breezes and a
huge dock. Karaoke is huge on the island
and always brings a party atmosphere.
Just another day in Belize. n

Explore The Seychelles’ Three
Best Islands on a Budget
Patti Morrow
J ust beyond the French doors is a terrace
framed by turquoise surf lapping onto
the shore. A coconut palm stretches
over the water, and craggy boulders reach
into the blue sky. This is The Seychelles,
also known as “the Garden of Eden,” 1,000
miles off the east coast of Africa.
Images of gigantic granite rocks jut-
ting out of the shimmering Indian Ocean
had embedded themselves in my memory
bank decades ago, but the distance, and
exorbitant travel costs, always made the
Seychelles seem beyond reach.
Things change. I was recently able to
explore the three main islands that the
French first colonized in the mid-1700s.
The white-sand beaches juxtaposed
against lush jungle-clad mountains did
not disappoint.
Mahé
The largest and most varied island in the
Seychelles, Mahé is home to about 70,000
people (90% of the nation’s total popula-
tion). Still, the island retains its tranquil
beauty, with 3,000-foot mountains and a
lavish arsenal of breathtaking beaches.
My two favorites are on opposite sides
of the island. Beau Vallon, on the north-
west coast, is the most popular spot on the
island. It’s a lively beach town, ringed by
clear water and a coral reef ideal for swim-
ming and snorkeling. My beachside lunch
was a heaping plate of piping hot Creole
mussels gratin and French fries (more than
I could eat) and a beer for $10.50.
Anse Royale was my favorite Mahé
beach. Postcard-perfect, the end of the bay
with its giant granite rocks and turquoise
water is often empty. I reached this beach
by local standing-room-only bus for 50
cents. It wasn’t exactly a “chicken bus,”
but it was a memorable experience as the
driver careened on the narrow, winding
road while we passengers clutched the
overhead bands for dear life.
It took an effort to tear myself away
from the beaches to experience more of
the island. I rented a car and drove around
to explore. Two mountain passes allow
travel
you to meander up into Morne Seychellois
National Park. A word of warning—the
thoroughfares are not for the faint of heart.
I stopped at the Tea Factory, Morne
Blanc mountain, and Mission Lodge to
admire vistas of Port Glaud lagoon on the
west coast, and Victoria on the east.
Victoria, the smallest capital in Africa,
is best explored on foot.
The colorful city spreads
out from the Victoria Clock “Arguably the
Tower, constructed to look
like the one housing Lon-
most beautiful
don’s Big Ben. Sights include beach in the
the kaleidoscopic Arul Mihu
Navasakthi Vinayagar Hindu world.”
Temple, a bustling local
market, and the botanical gardens.
Praslin
The sleepy island of Praslin is the second-
largest in the Seychelles archipelago but is
very different from Mahé. Anse Lazio is its
best-known feature, often turning up on
lists of the world’s most beautiful beaches.
In front of me were the turquoise
waves; behind, a thicket of takamaka
trees; to the right were more of the granite
boulders so common in the Seychelles. At
a shaded outdoor beach bar I lazily dug my
toes into the sand and sipped a cocktail.
Praslin is also home to 4,000 cocos
Glossy magazine photos of La Digue are what
dreams are made of, and the reality delivers.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
26
de mer, an exotic, endemic plant that
prompted the belief that the Seychelles
were the true Garden of Eden. It produces
the world’s biggest nut, which you can find
at Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve rainforest.
You’ll also find black parrots there, of which
there are fewer than 900 left in the wild.
La Digue
The smallest of the three main inhabited
islands, La Digue has a tranquil Creole vibe.
To get around the island, bicycle and ox
cart rentals are available.
Visiting La Digue has been on my
bucket list for most of my adult life. Famed
for being one of the most photographed
beaches on the planet, I pored
over photos of Anse Source
d’Argent beach in glossy
magazines for years.
Arguably the most
beautiful beach in the world,
the water does not have the
waves of Anse Lazio, but
calmer, pale-emerald water
washes up on its shores. It’s so clear, the
rock formations below give the appearance
of a coral reef.
A jungle path led me to this dazzling
white-sand beach, framed by massive
pieces of granite protruding into the sky,
which also provide a shady respite from the
blazing sun. The delicate atmosphere made
me feel like I was on another planet. I didn’t
want to leave.
Visiting on a Budget
Contrary to popular belief, a visit to the Sey-
chelles doesn’t have to break the bank. My
lovely boutique B&B on the beach in Mahé
was $160 per night for an oceanfront double
room with balcony and breakfast included,
and a rental car was $68 for the day.
It costs $55 to take the ferry to Praslin
and $65 for the ferry to La Digue. Costa
Cruises offers a two-week cruise through-
out the Indian Ocean with three full days in
the Seychelles for around $1,600. To save on
meals, eat at local establishments instead of
luxury resorts.
Food wagons set up on popular beaches,
and the most affordable eating options in
Victoria are in and around the Sir Selwyn
Clarke market, with numerous take-away
places serving Creole or Indian food for less
© ALXPIN/iSTOCK
than $12 a serving. If you’re on Beau Vallon
beach at the weekend, an open-air market
offers affordable produce and meals. n

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico: A
Wine Lover’s Wonderland
Marcia Gage
I f you enjoy a glass of wine with your
dinner or you’re a full-fledged wine
enthusiast, you don’t have to compro-
mise on your vino while in Mexico.
Though the interest in Mexican wine
has grown over the last few decades, its
history goes back centuries. In 1597, Span-
ish monks planted the first vineyard in
Monterrey, Mexico. It remains active today,
making Casa Madero the oldest operating
vineyard in North America.
When we think of Mexican wine geo-
graphically, the northern Baja region near
the U.S. border, especially the Valle de Gua-
dalupe, stands out. However, more vine-
yards are popping up all over the northern
half of the country, including that states
of Querétaro and Guanajuato in central
Mexico. Mexico not only cultivates fine
wine, but has plenty of places to appreci-
ate it. One of the best in the coutry is the
Pacific coast resort of Puerto Vallarta, fast
becoming a hub for connoisseurs.
You could spend a lifetime exploring
wine in Mexico, but to cover at least three
aspects of the wine world in Puerto Val-
larta, I treated myself to three experiences.
Cork and Bottle
Nina Goodhue took decades of experi-
ence and a lifelong passion for wine and
opened up Cork and Bottle 10 years ago.
In her hometown of Seattle, her European
parents boasted an impressive wine cellar
and indulged in a bottle frequently. True
to their European culture, Nina’s par-
ents encouraged her interest in wine and
invited her to have an occasional glass with
them at dinner.
Nina, who has a background in retail,
moved to Puerto Vallarta 30 years ago and
kept her interest in and love for wine alive
by sparking an interest in Mexican wine.
Her work experience, combined with a
love of wine, won her offers from Mexico
City and Guadalajara to run a wholesale
wine company in Puerto Vallarta. Twenty-
five years ago, her wholesale business was
the second in Puerto Vallarta, compared to
40 today.
travel
Vibrant, and exuding flavor and life, wines in
Mexico match their colorful setting.
Nina worked in the wholesale busi-
ness for about 15 years, and then naturally
transitioned into opening Cork and Bottle.
Nina also carries craft beer and spirits, but
she takes the wine personally. Nina will not
put a bottle on her shelf that she wouldn’t
drink; this means no white zinfandel or
syrupy rosé.
Nina holds two tastings a month dur-
ing the high season. These tastings only
allow up to eight people and include food
pairings.
She will also serve you a glass of wine
or a cold beer in her shop.
You may enjoy it right there
in the air conditioning or “It’s fast
take it to the attached court-
yard and grab a sandwich
becoming
from the deli across the hall. a hub for
Visit Cork and Bottle
on Calle Aquiles Serdán in connoisseurs.”
the Los Mercados shopping
plaza in Old Town Vallarta. Nina welcomes
visitors and questions about wine.
Di Vino Dante
Many restaurants in Puerto Vallarta boast
impressive wine lists, often featuring
Mexican wines, but Di Vino Dante Wine
and Tapas Bar stands out. Gena Guarniere
was born and raised in Puerto Vallarta to
parents who own the attached art gallery.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
27
Her excellent education at the interna-
tional school left her bilingual and very
knowledgeable regarding the workings and
history of Mexico.
She received her art degree from the
University of Vancouver, Canada, and
ended up taking wine science to fulfill
her science requirement. This wine class
ignited her interest and prompted her
further education in a London-based som-
melier course.
Back in Puerto Vallarta she opened
the wine and tapas bar which now has
celebrated over 10 anniversaries. The once
tiny wine bar has blossomed into a beauti-
ful restaurant with more than 115 wines on
their list. Gena works directly with the head
bartender and chef to make sure everything
coordinates perfectly. Artistic thought goes
into everything from food to the décor.
I couldn’t resist ordering a tasting
selection of wines. My two favorites were
both from Mexico, the Incognito, and
Pagliacci, a peppery but tannin-balanced
malbec. With over 100 more wines to try, I’ll
be back. They also have monthly tastings
and pairings. If you live in or plan to visit
Puerto Vallarta, don’t miss visiting this
gem on Calle Basilio Badillo.
Uncork Mexico
The only voids in the Puerto Vallarta wine
world included ordering wine online and
wine delivery. Natalia and Vanussa of
Uncork Mexico took care of that problem
a little over two years ago. Natalia, from
Guadalajara, Mexico, and Vanussa, from
Brazil, took their collective experience from
their home countries and the U.S. to create
the innovative company.
Uncork Mexico offers
wine delivery, a wine club,
and, best of all, wine tastings
featuring singular wines you
won’t find anywhere else.
I attended a tasting fea-
turing wines from upcoming
regions, and it was delightful.
The tastings average about 10 to 12 people,
© NAZAREEN HEAZLE/INTERNATIONAL LIVING
tasting and learning about five delicious
wines and their best pairings. Natalia and
Vanussa demonstrate their passion for wine
within the setting of a boutique hotel.
The saying, “wine is alive,” is more than
an expression, it summarizes the idea that
the soil, climate, history, culture, and the
grapes are present in every bottle. Mexican
wine exudes flavor and life. n

Ireland’s Dingle Peninsula displays a palette of greens softened by wild ocean spray.
Arts, Crafts and Tasty
Treats in Dingle
Ellen Federico
S itting on a stool at the well-worn
full liquor bar and sipping Blue
Rose Pale Ale, crisp and dry, with
mild notes of rose hips and blackcurrant,
I watch as locals—some carrying musical
instruments—trickle into Brick’s pub
and take familiar seats in a corner. More
musicians and seasoned travelers arrive.
Adrienne, the publican, greets them all
like family. Candles are lit on tables and
window sills. A wood fire crackles in the
brick hearth and taps flow with fresh
brews, and everyone’s spirits lift as music
fills the pub.
I’m in Ballyferriter, tucked into the
rugged Dingle Peninsula, on the west
coast of Ireland. Nearby, and buzzing with
activity, the six main streets of the colorful
port town of Dingle are veined with hidden
lanes and streams, all sweeping toward the
busy marina. Gulls squawk above charter
boats returning from trips out to fish for
mackerel, sea bass, or ling. Sailboat masts
poke at a cobalt sky, and fishermen on the
quays mend tangled nets with bone nee-
dles. Quaint it may be, but Dingle is also
one of Ireland’s busiest fishing ports, and
the experience is authentic. Marina park-
ing is $1.20 an hour from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.,
travel: ireland
with free overnight parking. You can walk
the entire town in a day.
There’s lots to see, do, and buy on this
craggy Atlantic peninsula, not all of it
in those famous Irish pubs. In fact, local
artisans are transforming this once sleepy
area of Ireland into a foodie and cultural
paradise.
Not surprisingly, in a Catholic country
like Ireland, even the ordinary becomes
holy. A great photo opportunity is the
gigantic “bullaun” stone parked on Goat
Street, with holes worn in the top dating
from the Bronze Age. It’s had more recent
applications, too, from a time in the 17th
century when Catholicism in Ireland was
suppressed. Local resident Diarmuid Begley
says, “The stone was used to trick the
English from knowing where the Irish were
having mass. When folks put sand in a hole,
mass was at the beach. When they put water
in a hole, mass was by a certain stream.”
After that, it’s a short stroll across
Green Street toward the bell tower of
19thcentury Saint Mary’s church. Behind it
is a wonderful circular meditation garden,
inspired by the Tree of Life that leads to
the Convent of the Presentation Sisters,
now the Díseart Centre of Irish Culture.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
28
Visit the Chapel of the Sacred Heart, with
its museum-quality stained-glass windows
designed by famed artist Harry Clarke
in 1922. They were commissioned by the
savvy Mother Superior Ita for a mere 1,000
pounds. My favorite is the image of Mary
Magdalene witnessing the risen Christ.
A must-see is the former Sisters’ Dining
Room, where you can view the massive wall
fresco painted by Colorado mural artist
Eleanor Yates in 2011. Her intention was
to paint a large scale Last Supper embed-
ded with local images. The apostles are
all based on local men the artist found
throughout Dingle who had just the right
face. The chapel is open Monday to Satur-
day from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission is $4
per person.
Arts and crafts are something of a
theme in Dingle. Everywhere you turn, it
seems, are independent galleries and stores
with displays of handmade works on offer.
Behind the red door at An Gailearaí Beag
(The Little Gallery) on Main Street, home to
the West Kerry Craft Guild, is a treasure of
sophisticated crafts made by local artists.
Weaver Sue Redican lives something of
a hermit’s life on Great Blasket Island, off-
shore from Dingle. There, alone for most of
her time, she crafts intricate designs on her
loom, using wool dyes made from wild-
flowers and plants. When asked if she’s ever
afraid living on her own there, she says,
“Only when the tourists come in summer
and camp overnight. I prefer the grey seals
and birds, or my grandson.” You can visit
Sue weaving on the island in summer by
daily ferry from Dunquin harbor, or view
her wall hangings at the Blasket Heritage
Centre.
The artists whose work is on display at
An Gailearaí Beag take turns running the
shop, and they take time to talk to visi-
tors. Peruse displays of pottery, woodwork,
paintings, stitched fairies, jewelry, beeswax
candles, and magic soaps hidden in felted
washcloths by druid priestess Juli Ní Mhao-
ileoin. Most popular is Juli’s “gratitude
spray,” with essences of lavender, rose,
dandelion, nettle, and rosemary.
All that is enough to make anyone hun-
gry. The serene Global Village Restaurant
on Main Street prepares modern cuisine
with a touch of tradition. Seared local scal-
MISSING35MM/iSTOCK
lops on roasted cauliflower purée, with car-
rot jam and cloud-light mashed potatoes,
are perfect harmony ($17). The waitress told
me that the chef uses ingredients harvested
from his own garden. The food and wine
here are outstanding.
Every Friday from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.,
Holyground Farmers Market on Strand
Street takes place. It’s packed with organic
produce, baked goods, chocolates, and
jams. That’s where I met “Pickled in
Dingle” owner Marie Charland, a French
Canadian who makes divine chutneys
like beetroot and orange. Marie arrived
16 years ago, found a job, and met her
husband. He’s Fergal Murphy, and he
owns Ballydavid Honey. Marie poured
Fergal a pint at his local pub, and the rest
is pickling history. Now they’re regulars
at Dingle’s annual food, wine, beer, and
market festival, which takes place this
year October 5 to 7. (See: Dinglefood.com.)
For a special handmade dessert, step
into the sky-blue Murphy’s Ice Cream
shop on Strand Street. Smiling scoopers
offer samples to help you decide which
flavors to choose. Murphy’s ice cream is
made from the milk of local cows, local
eggs, and a jewel box of fresh ingredients.
Pairing their Dingle Sea Salt and Caramel-
ized Brown Bread flavors is heavenly, trust
me. For more adventurous palettes, try
the refreshing Dingle Gin flavor. Three
generous scoops at Murphy’s go for $8.
Savoring homemade ice cream while
watching a fiery sunset mirrored in the
GETTING TO DINGLE
Most travelers start their journey at Tralee,
from where two scenic routes to Dingle
run on either side of the peninsula’s moun-
tainous spine. Route 561 runs along the
peninsula’s south side past Inch Strand. It’s
a sweeping three-mile beach where surfers
brave chilly waves below mountains dotted
with cottages, manor homes, and grazing
sheep. Alternatively, you can take the dra-
matic route 560, one of Ireland’s highest
mountain roads, through the Conor Pass’s
lush valleys, ancient ruins, and panoramic
seascapes. For a round trip, taking one
route in and the other one out is the best
option.
The closest international airports
are at Cork or Shannon, both around a
threehour drive away. Car rental compa-
nies are available at either airport—it’s the
most convenient option for traveling in
the region. Currently, there are no direct
glass calm of Dingle Bay is a delicious only serves breakfast or afternoon tea.
memory. Seven miles west, on Slea Head Drive
Castlewood House, a boutique hotel in Ballyferriter, is Brick’s Pub, B&B and
nestled on the bay, is a 10-minute walk Brewery, where owner Adrienne Heslin is
into town. Husband-and-wife innkeepers publican and brew mistress of the West
Helen and Brian Heaton operate the best Kerry Brewing Company. Back in the 17th
hotel in Dingle, prized for its beautiful century, it was common for women to
rooms with spa bathrooms, and praised brew barley ales and honey mead, hence
for an award-winning breakfast prepared the name “alewives.” Adrienne turns
by chef Brian. Inviting interiors are an well water, yeast, and botanicals into
eclectic mix of antique and high-quality beer while
contemporary furnishings,
with fresh flowers through-
“Watching a surrounded by majestic,
sweeping views of the Wine
out. A gallery of landscape fiery sunset Strand and Three Sisters
paintings adorns the hall- cliffs, where Star Wars, The
ways. mirrored in Last Jedi was filmed.
I enjoyed a three-night
the glass calm With a rich green façade,
ORKNEY
ISLANDS
stay in a harbor-view room, Mainland Brick’s Pub, circa 1890, is
where I could hear the ebb
and flow of tides and the
of Dingle Bay.” also a charming, self-cater-
ing B&B with a communal
caws of seabirds each morning. My most kitchen. High season rates run $110 a night.
Lewis with
savored memory of Castlewood Harris
is the When you sit in the lovely garden behind
over-the-top breakfast feast. Rise and Brick’s, the scents of wild roses and fra-
shine to a royal breakfastNorth
of poached grant yeast from the brewery are intoxi-
spiced fruits, breads, jams, Uistcheeses, and cating in themselves. Camouflaged in
salamis, a menu of full Irish
Southor vegetarian the untamed brambles are striking metal
Skye
hot dishes, omelets, pancakes,Uist and fluffy sculptures with extraordinary features.
porridge paired with brown sugar and Adrienne is a trained sculptor by trade,
HEBRIDES
Irish whiskey drizzle. Rates start at $150 in addition to her other impressive titles.
a night, including full breakfast. There’s Adrienne’s face lights up as she explains
free parking on site. Request sea-view Mull how she ended up living on the edge of
rooms, and be aware that the dining room Ireland. “Love brought me to Brick’s,” she
Isley says. “I met and fell in love with Pádraig
Brick in 1992 in Dingle Town, where I’d North
Sea
lived
Arran
since completing
in Dublin.” What does
my
U.K.
fine art studies
she love most about
No
rt
hC
living in Dingle? “The location has become
North Atlantic
ha
nn
Ocean my oasis,” she says. “Natural beauty and
el
NORTHERN
IRELAND the coastal setting, along with the moun-
Isle of Man (U.K.)
tainous terrain, are quite inspiring.”
Call ahead for a tour of the brewery and
sample West Kerry classic beer in fruity
Irish Sea
dark or pale ales. Tip: Live open music ses-
IRELAND
sions are on Friday nights at 9 p.m.
Aran Dublin
Many of the people who live on the Din-
Islands Anglesey
gle Peninsula share a simple philosophy of
Shannon living in balance with nature. My favorite
memory is of Diarmuid Begley, a chatty
Dingle driver and unofficial guide who grew up on
St.George's
Channelthe Peninsula. On my last day, he pulled off
Cork
the road and made me squeeze a fuchsia
flower until one drop of nectar fell London to the
ground. “God’s tears,” he called it.
Holding the flower, I gazed out toward
Bristol Channel
flights to Ireland from Australia, but fre- the roiling Atlantic Ocean and inhaled a St
D
quent connections to Dublin from various deep breath of sea air like a shot of hap-
UK airports are an easy add-on. piness… it must have been the gratitude
spray. n
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019 English Channel
29 ISLES OF SCILLY
Alderney
FR
(U.K.)
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 global property notes
Living Among Nature in Jungle Homes
T
“ he air was full of all the night noises
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INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
33
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jungle plot. You could have your own resi-
dential compound, run an ecolodge with
Amazon tours, or host your own shamanic
ceremonies. You get it all for $130,000. An
hour downriver from Iquitos is a river-
front jungle lodge on 25 acres that could
be turned into a residential property. List
price is $50,000. See: Latincarib.com.
Siem Reap, Cambodia—Gateway to
Angkor Wat
© COLLEEN CLAPP
Siem Reap is the modern city outside
the vast ancient metropolis of Angkor
Wat, which was the capital of the ancient
Khmer kingdom. As a resident here, you’ll
have plenty of opportunity to explore the
ruins, which cover 402 acres and include
many temples and other structures covered
in intricate bas reliefs. Be sure not to miss
sunrise over the main temple to get the
iconic photo.
Siem Reap is a major tourist hub
and offers plenty of amenities and busi-
ness opportunities as a result. But that
doesn’t mean prices have gone outrageous,
especially for rental real estate. (It can be
complicated for foreigners to own land in
Cambodia, so it’s best to rent, for now.)
Surrounded by foliage and outside of
town is a two-bedroom modern villa for
$750 per month. It’s fully furnished. A
furnished two-bedroom condo in a lush
garden setting, with community swim-
ming pool, is available for $800 per month.
See: Realestate.com.kh.
Caribbean Coast, Costa Rica—Where
the Jungle Meets the Beach
Costa Rica is a tourist mecca. But most
visitors head to the Pacific coast, with its
well-developed resort towns, all-inclusives,
and no shortage of activities like zip lining
and the like. A focus of government infra-
structure money and its proximity to the
country’s two international airports make
the west coast an easy destination to travel
to and from.
The southern Caribbean coast doesn’t
get much coverage. And the bohemian
backpackers, laidback surfers, and like-
minded expats who do discover the Carib-
bean like it that way. There aren’t any gated
communities or condo or hotel towners
looming on the beach, just jungle, almost
deserted golden- and white-sand beaches,
small fishing villages, and one two-lane
paved road running parallel to the water
connecting them all.
Homes dot the uncut jungle, which
is alive with sloths, toucans, and howler
monkeys. Residents would rather keep
this little corner of Costa Rica a secret, but
they can’t keep it all to themselves. There’s
a three-bedroom home, with plenty of
sustainable tropical hardwood finishes, for
$173,000 in the popular Playa Chiquita area.
The garden has 20 different fruit trees. For
$199,000 you can secure a two-bedroom
home near Punta Uva beach that lies along
one of the region’s main “monkey corri-
dors,” so you’ll see different species often.
See: C21Caribe.com. n
Real Estate Notes From Our
Correspondents Around the World
n Opportunity for a Portuguese
Guesthouse Complex. If you’ve ever
dreamed of owning and operating
a turismo rural guesthouse, a great
opportunity for investment is now available
in central Portugal.
Less than 30 minutes from Coimbra,
four cottages in need of renovation are
located in a lovely hamlet with valley views
near both the medieval castle towns of
Penela and Miranda do Corvo.
“At $85,500, this is a marvelous oppor-
tunity,” says Kevin Ormstom of Property
Shop Portugal. “This area attracts many
tourists in the spring and summer months
as well as potential expats looking to build
a new life here. In fact, there is plenty of
space to create a family home and a rental
business combined.”
The property comes with approxi-
mately 10,000 square feet of land and
a building plot. Electricity and water are
connected to some of the cottages, and
could easily be installed at the others.
Access is via a tarmac road that runs
through the hamlet, the lower end of
which features a small chapel, and is where
the annual village festa takes place.
—Tricia Pimental, IL Portugal
Correspondent.
n New Laws in Ireland put the
Squeeze on Airbnb Investors. New
laws in Ireland, summarized neatly with
the “One Host, One Home” maxim, took
effect in summer 2019. In an attempt
to alleviate a shortage of long-term
accommodation in Dublin and other high-
demand locations, the use of homesharing
platforms such as Airbnb is now strictly
regulated.
The general thrust of the legisla-
tion is intended to curb the activities of
professional property investors, many of
whom have purchased properties with the
primary intention of deriving an income
from short-term lets, administered via
online platforms.
In short, if the home is their principal
residence, owners are permitted to rent
out a room, or rooms, without restriction.
However, if the property is not the owner’s
primary residence, or if the entire residence
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
34
is to be rented out, individual rentals are
limited to a maximum of 14 days. Addition-
ally, accumulated rentals are restricted to an
annual limit of 90 days.
Owners wishing to rent out a property
which is not their primary residence must
register the property with their local authority
and seek planning permission for this type of
use. In areas of high housing demand such as
Dublin or Cork, that planning permission is
unlikely to be granted.
The new laws mirror developments
worldwide in locations such as Berlin, Amster-
dam, Vancouver, and Toronto, each of which
have enacted laws to restrict the effects of
short-term rental platforms on the local hous-
ing markets.—Seán Keenan, IL Managing
Editor.
n Panama Property Tax Reforms Bring
a Welcome Boost to Homeowners. As of
January 1st, 2019, Panama has a new tax sys-
tem for property taxes. Prior to that date, tax
exemptions for up to 20 years were granted
on most newly constructed homes built from
2012 to December 31, 2018. Once the 20
years were up, there was a tiered taxation
formula in place.
Now, the new system offers even better
breaks. On existing primary residences, the
first $120,000 of the property’s registered
value is exempt forever. The taxation on the
remainder is quite simple. From $120,000
to $250,000 the rate is 0.5%. Value over
$700,000 is taxed at a rate of 0.7%.
For new construction after January 1,
2019, first-time resident home builders will
have an exemption of all property taxes for
three years if the registered value of their
homes is between $120,000 and $300,000
For those buying homes in Panama that
are not their primary residence, tax rates are
as follows:
0 - $30,000: Tax 0%
$30,000 - $250,000: Tax 0.6%
$250,000 - $500,000: Tax 0.8%
$500,000 and above: Tax 1%
In addition, banks holding mortgages
will now assess the tax and add it in to your
monthly mortgage fee.
These new property tax laws mean a sav-
ings for everyone.—IL Chiriquí Correspond-
ent Nanette Witmer. n

I Think My 20-Year-Old Self
Would Admire Me
A t 20 years old, I wasn’t ready for
Medellín, Colombia, and Medellín
wasn’t ready for me.
I was a junior in college. I lived at
home. And I had never studied abroad. In
1979, Colombia was in the midst of its dark
days of drug cartels and Pablo Escobar. No
one, especially me, could have imagined
that 33 years later an unexpected visit to
the country would change my life forever.
I was not worldly. My first time on an
airplane was a flight to Bermuda for my
high school senior trip. As a kid, fam-
ily vacations were car rides to the lake or
the beach to rent a cottage for a week. My
mother and I would spend weeks prepar-
ing for these vacations by cooking and
freezing pans of lasagna, brownies, and
other dishes so that we would feel com-
fortable. I was not an adventurous eater.
In college, I studied laboratory
science—a very precise, measured, and
linear field of medicine for which I was
perfectly suited. I liked order, certainty,
and planning. Spontaneity was not in my
vocabulary. I had my life all planned: I was
going to graduate, marry my boyfriend,
work in a hospital laboratory, buy a house,
and have children near my family, friends,
and familiar surroundings.
I’m not sure if I wanted these things
because of convention or because of my
personal values. In any event, that is
exactly how my life played out.
Sometimes, when I look in the mirror,
I try to imagine the 20-year-old version of
myself looking back at me. Not so much
to see how our looks have changed, but
rather, to ask the questions: Would we like
each other? Would we hang out and be
friends? Would we each be envious of the
other’s life? What advice would I give to
her, and she to me?
We are the yin and the yang. I would
encourage her to be more spontaneous
and less stuck in the weeds, and she would
MORE ONLINE: If reading about Nancy’s life in Colombia has inspired you, International
Living’s website has a trove of information on the country. See: Intliving.com/CBA
the last word
Nancy Kiernan
remind me to be cautious. I think that we
would be great friends because together,
we’d strike a balance.
Knowing what I know now, I would
tell that young, over-organized and
over-planned woman to relax and learn
to go with the flow. Don’t wait until every
conceivable contingency plan is in place
before making a decision.
Besides being more flexible and spon-
taneous, I want to tell my younger self
to value the time spent with family and
friends. Make that a priority and celebrate
with them the small and big moments, the
extraordinary and the everyday. Worry less
about material things and
focus instead on experiences.
At 53 years old I made one “My only regret
of the biggest decisions of my
life and moved to Medellín.
is that I waited
Reflecting on this choice, my so long to just
only regret is that I waited
so long to just live a little. For live a little.”
three decades, my days were
spent working long hours to pay the bills,
cleaning the house, taking care of my fam-
ily, and hoping to have a little bit of time to
relax when the weekends rolled around.
When I arrived in Medellín I didn’t
speak a word of Spanish, so I enrolled in a
program at a local university. My younger
self would never have stepped onto the
plane without having learned enough
phrases to get by. Only after I had made the
move did I decide to learn the language. I
like to think that my younger self would
see this endeavor as brave, not flighty.
In 2012, even though I had grown up,
my family and friends continued to com-
pare my behavior to that of my younger
self. My announcement that I was moving
to Medellín was met with the question,
“Who are you, and what have you done
with Nancy?” I think my 20-year-old self
would have asked the same thing.
I am not the same person I was at 20.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
35
Traveling to the other side of the country
to see the lakes and beaches by hopping
on an airplane would have taken weeks of
planning. Now I do it at the drop of a hat. I
embrace new foods, new experiences, and
new cultures. My younger self might have
winced at this, but maybe she would also
feel a pang of envy.
Just as I have evolved since 1979, so has
Medellín. The city has shed its dark past
of violence and drug cartels, and I have
shed the need to have everything planned.
I exchanged my career in medicine for one
as the Colombia correspondent for Inter-
national Living. I think my 20-year-old self
would be proud of me.
Because I stepped outside
of myself, I have found a
great community of like-
minded people looking to do
the same. In addition to writ-
ing about life in Colombia, I
attend the IL conferences and
meet with so many wonder-
ful people who are investigating the idea of
moving overseas, not wanting to miss out
on everything life has to offer.
When I share the journey that led me to
Medellín, I occasionally laugh when I think
to myself, “If these people only knew what
I was like back then, they wouldn’t believe I
could have made this move.” But I did, and
they can too.
From time to time, I do feel a bit
envious of my younger self ’s future full
of possibilities. My life before Colombia
was wonderful and provided the wisdom I
needed to fully understand and enjoy my
life now. While I cannot rewrite the past,
I am writing a future that once seemed
impossible.
This year I turned 60, and if I could
travel through time to meet my 85-year-old
self, I would hope that she would smile,
raise a glass of wine with me, and say, “We
have had one heck of a ride!” n

Stop Dreaming About Your Perfect
Retirement Overseas…And Start Planning it
Retire Overseas Bootcamp 2019 • October 11 - 13, 2019 • Las Vegas, Nevada
R etire sooner. Spend
less. Live better. That’s
the end goal.
And there’s no question:
You can do it.
You can do it in all sorts of
beautiful, welcoming, good-
weather communities that dot
the globe from Latin America
to Southeast Asia to Europe.
Laidback beach escapes.
Quiet mountain getaways.
University towns. Even
cosmopolitan cities.
You could double your
disposable income…find that
perfect second home you’ve
always dreamed of…grow
your nest egg…and secure a
comfortable future both for
yourself in retirement, and for
your heirs…
“We live in an upscale
gated community and have
a three-bedroom, three-
bathroom house. We’re close
to restaurants, coffee shops,
movie theaters, and malls.
The weather is beautiful, and
the people here are warm and
EXPERTS YOU’LL MEET IN LAS VEGAS
In Las Vegas, we’ll have on hand
our own editorial staff and on-the-
ground experts from our network
across the globe. You’ll not only
benefit from each speaker’s pres-
entation, but you’ll also rub elbows
with them in an informal way, too.
Our speakers are friendly and
incredibly accessible. They’re well
connected, and their judgment
is sound. They’ll each lay out the
case for various communities so
you can begin to see where you
might focus your search.
Nancy Kiernan, IL Colombia
Correspondent. You’ll find all
kinds of interesting options for liv-
calendar of events
While it’s nice to dream of life overseas, making it happen is even better.
welcoming. We have made
many good friends, both
locals and expats, and our
social calendar is always full.
“We have a full-time maid
who does all our chores and
a gardener who cares for the
yard. We spend our days going
to the gym, taking Spanish
classes, horseback riding,
hiking nearby volcanoes,
going to the beach, and
ing well in Colombia, from coffee
country to warm coastal retreats
to our top city pick: Medellín.
Nancy’s an expert on it all, and
she’ll guide you through your
options.
Steve Garfink, author of
Retire in Luxury on Your Social
Security, will be on hand to talk
about what, specifically, you can
do to ensure you’re positioned to
claim the maximum retirement
benefit due to you. Steve will talk
about the questions you need to
ask to make sure you’re tapping
into the greatest retirement pay-
out you’re eligible to receive.
INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I SEPTEMBER 2019
exploring the country.
“And we do all this for
less than half the cost of a
moderate lifestyle in Atlanta.”
Stories like that are why
we created a special event
unlike any other, our Retire
Overseas Bootcamp.
This program is all
about the process—the
questions you need to ask, the
considerations you should
Winton Churchill, founder
of Barefoot Consultants, will
be on hand to show you how
you could add to your retirement
funds—and even bankroll your
life overseas—with an income
you take with you wherever you
decide to go. You may not think
you have a “portable” skill, but
don’t be so sure. Winton will show
you how you can access a world
of opportunity most folks leave
on the table.
That’s just a sample of the in-
country correspondents, financial,
legal, and real estate experts who
you’ll meet in Las Vegas.
make, the order in which it’s
best to go about this or that.
At the same time, you’ll
dig into a whole raft of
destinations around the
world—under the careful
guidance of our in-country
experts.
You’ll get familiar with all
kinds of places…from Panama
to France…Ecuador to Ireland
and Colombia…Costa Rica
to Mexico…Belize to Spain…
from Thailand to Portugal,
Malaysia, and well beyond…
And we’ll home in on
the many other ways you
can—and, arguably, should—
internationalize your life.
So we’ll discuss the
techniques and solutions
available to you when you’re
overseas that can help you
diversify your portfolio, save
on your taxes, better protect
your privacy, and give you
increased flexibility in the way
you travel, invest, and retire.
If you’d welcome a written
blueprint—made just for
you—which could guide you,
step-by-step, as you pick
the place that “checks all the
right boxes” for you...and
then shows you how to go
about setting up your new life
there…then this deserves your
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What you need is
guidance, answers, good
judgment, and advice. And
that’s what we’ll deliver.
Call 1-866-381-8446 (toll
free in the U.S. and Canada)
or 1-410-622-3040 now to
speak with our events team at
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© COLLEEN CLAPP
You can contact them via
email at info@opptravel.com.or
see: IntLiving.com/Events n