U.S. $5.$9/CAN 37.99 4 | | |) ae \ MY OMe sl suscuel,ee . re, > ks Bd 4] | in % eal Lee sia basis STEPBYSTEPWIIFE.COM,remem OFF THE WIRE: If You Build It, They Wil Come.... If there was ever a jewelry medium that people are passionate about, it's wire. So much so that we were confident that if we put on Wire Jewelry Tesl, people would ‘come, Don't miss yor chance, there are still classes available. uly 15 & 16, at the Chase Center on the Riverfront in Wilmington, Delaware, we have a weekend devoted entirely ty making jewelry — all kinds of jewelry — with wiret ‘Learn how te erochet wire beads with award-winning, jewelry artist Joan Dulla, Stamp a personal messeye inte your wire bracelet ‘with California artist Lisa Niven Kelly, Dale Cougar Armstrong teach= ts three of her classic wire wrap designs. Or crochet a wirechain with Michael Davie! Sturlin, Qver 15 wire instructors teaching sore then classes. And in the hall, right next door, over 50 booths of vendors will be solings everything you need to go home and cuintinne creaiing, Just thung, you can learn all the techniques, and buy all the tools and supplies, lo make every project inside his sire T knows how it ‘s.you've dog-earred projects ia every issue. This is your chance to jump-start those creative juices. Sign up today wrlyiesico, and come join us for the first ever Wire Denise Peck livery Chi fon our Web site, eS —©)DID YOU KNOW Wi ré...., oroMAL Tia Orns rine Bam sone Petula fr ese ont etn in (stm ris Ht ses Eke ales AUSINESS sin nt eo Tahar athe (ii Siege Een Shintemdae isc el las oh Hoe ths aoc ge AOVERTISNG "ens, yer Sipe acl ee tn tress coma atest en ee aay tet Oia a sete lite he So ane vw capt hens PRIMEDIA, INC. haa si EB kn PRIMI ENTHUSIAST MEDIA (neo ar Mlb eon er er Ye ‘CONSUMER MARKETING PRPMEDIA ENTHUSINS BEDI ‘eis Hinde sport nanan one tee se Ba se cream tate i os CONSUMER MARKETING, AMHUSIAST MEDIA GUISCRIPTION COMPANY sutsenptont Ore Lowcuntaner Serv: (8) sates, Subeenoton oe yoummeamtcom Caesars one aemieeaass9e. wie Pind nus PRIMEDIA MagazinesSKILL LEVELS © BEGINNER Soineone jst sorting ot can comple His pa om he esis GO BEGINNER/INTERMEDIATE Soneone wha hes hod experience with heater ial can lay npc ts prove. bur bl alsa ear someting ew Oy ein GO O INTERMEDIATE 2 cola tbl projct rsoneone whohes eocel work Krew! eee! GOOG INTERMEDATE/ ADVANCED A srejeat for eomaone wha i t20ey for 9 more calor ‘peach ts omatavelThsy hove werked wil (epectec 9GH9E 9 Advanced 4 good praetor sonoone wio is corficert wih the motel ond his Fad lolofexaeroace wih he technues ence hops Hove a ronment? \Whotier fs comalimentorconpli, we welcome all cade rips We an bs rnc eu av Webs: ya steabsepae con, by en ot Ijedtside2yineda con hype "We conmens in abet Ie), by So] ma 0 our naw fis a 30 Ces ihe, Sut TE0, Nae, iL 19355. se sent dn Sey by Sep Nie Fey ON THE COVER iy Sst eos Pony Fok, ce | AB Sin Comer lair YF IMS ClicSte yy Flak Pnte Joey» S&F os Fie Feb un ey a en, P Fk Ds Wire Fest ess Wining. Sin ple oats n wren fs.ca SUMMER 2006 volu www stepbystepwire.com number 2 6] Off the Wire Ooi Pak, Edsel 8] Wire Wise Q&A ot Cre fas 10] Chain Maille: Passing On the Love Sy Nn Ga 15|_ Silver Caterpillar 29 A moung seing jump sing bracelet 19| Basket Weaving 101 39 lont By Rana Sows Wns 24) cover story 89 Ebbing Glass Combine ‘wits wecwieg, chein alle Invie ges ye By Deo oo hod wins headpine meee a ie necklace 31| Celtic Star g99 ‘Chain walle porders or component By Jomy Fak 36| Fuzzy Logic 2 ret jump ning bia 6 Fo Hols38, Cleopatra's Collar 99909 # cand 1 By Sastia Aber aise sho 47| Style & Flair 99 52| Chained Melody 9999 By Go ewe 58] Third Mesa Bangle 9 H to he Southives i Smale Heds 62| Book Review 63] Wire Basics ADVERTISING SECTIONS 64) Classifieds 66) Advertisers’ Index“WIRE-WISE Q&A Debra Berg, a talented wire and fused glass artist tom, San Diego, asked me to write about measuring tools that are useful to wire workots. Her interest in this topic began when she first acquired a Brown and Sharp Wire Gauge, Logically, she placed hor 14-gauge wire al the 1M _gatige slot, but it didivt slip into the groove. A ve poe ‘ing tesult, indeed. Although Debra has since figured bout how to use this handy gavgy, sho wantod to make its use easier for beginning wire attists. So Debra, here are 7 cof my favorite measuring tools, tips, and charts that my sire work a loteasion Brown and Sharp Wire Gauge oa ree tenaass bal ofc Oui Sais ES eoorert *4 Gauge deawn (pulled through Z pny she 2G ics ia pode par Be Dee OS teat 0 ¢ Sapa BE OT gauge wine is pretty 7 fF Erik omill ant ike J) SID, wb ster’ On ee ste of the gauge (the front) you will see single- and double-digit numbers ranging from Oe 36. These numbers fer tothe gauge of the wire, OF numbers preceded by a decimal point, This refers to the sliomotor of the wine in inches. Ths, -gauge wie is inches, How eo you use the ygrage? Locate a slot on the: front side of the gauge you know’ your wire will easily slip into, Keep placing, the sine into progressively stat er slots until it finally stops at the entrance of the slot This is the gauge of your wire The gauge of stuxt metal nay also be elelerrnined following the same procedure the aeverse side, you will see triple digit Brass Sliding Gauge [My mind goes blank whenever someone asks me how many millimeters a particular bead is. "Uh, how about fan inch?” For all of us metric-challenged folks this tool is invaluable, Not only will it mcasure the diameter of a bead in millimeters and inches, it will give you the out- STEP By STEP WARE JEWEIRY ‘Meoswirg the ios dicmneer (1D) of a orp eng. side diameter (OD) of a jumnp ring ard the inside diame: teraswell Itmore accuaey is nected, oF vou simply love tool like 1 he ticket It works much in the same manner as the sliding brass gauge: diy an electronie diptal caliper may Center Finding Tip Many wire workers are expsnding their skills inte making wire rivets and other ‘connections. Anet sooner or later you yall stumble into the eh lore of finding the center Of a disk oF al 2 roclanghe Enter byron Long. from Duylostown, PA with this shgant tip: Draw acres on graph paper. Line up your piece on the grid sv that it Fos in the micidhe of the cross. Lising an ectta fine tipped permanent pon, extend the bres in b throusys your metal, The enter is where the Lines inter west Thanks, Byson! th. directions sick 2008Twin Loops Tip If you Jove making eattings Uke 1 do, this tp will come in handy: Instead of relying on 2 legion of dowels and mandrels, keop a hovel mandeel in your tool Kit, OC [Draw a line with a permanent marker and proceed with. forming, as many loops as you want of the same: size Simply remark the bezel manedrol when the ink fades. love this method because il allows me to stretch a loop just a tad ifthe loop size needs adjusting. The bezel man- diel is also user in making ear wires of tho same size Sizing Bangles and Bracelets Tip I you are making bangles and! bracelets for yours setting the correct size can take Hime, but at least you have sour arn to test the results. Dut, things get really dicey when you are making them for other people. Especially yen are taking intesnet ordors and you have your customer. After months of experiment ing with a variety of measuring methods (from making clay gems in all sizes Lo using a bracelet man= ddrel this straight for- sear direct acces pencedure Worked the best. Ask your customer to his oF how ‘wrist at the wrist bone with a measuring tape. Also using, a measuring Lape, find the equivalent measurement on your arm. Maks 3 small dot on your arm with a marker that won't give you gangrene, and fit the tangle or bracelet tu this spot. ¥ you have a larger wrist than your custowner’s, ind 2 small boned friend who would love to bean arm model Wire Riveting Chart All of you wire riveters know how important itis to suse a duill bit thot will lowe for @ saug Ht of the wire rivet. This chart will help you match up wire gauges with dill bit sizes B&SWire Drill Bit Size ‘Gauge MM 46 Bead Hole Sizing Don't you feel like itis your hacky day when you shop for beauls in acatalag or online, and the hole sizes arelist- ec)? For these rare moments, here isa chart that sll elp ‘you determine what wire gauge will ft through the hole Please note: The inch and millimeter dinensians Usted here are exne! equivalents lo the wire size, You will want the hole lo be a little Inrger than the wire to prevent breakage of your bead | B&S Wire Hole in | Hole in Gauge Inches —__‘Millimeters 12 081 064 051 040 Connie Fox bhas bun inaking jewel for ser Wl years. She teaches lasses i her Son Diogo studio. and at major jewelry and end events inctusting wey Aris Esp and ead Fest Shs esi fogs onto to bap foal ane Shp fy Sty Ras. ist ber Sneek wermesorattinéam, a It you have a quest | angered, or ap yo : Lusknov. Me cv espom tn each ston individually ou _ wllseect afew 6 answer inthis column, Send yourques- | “ions and tips €@ Contban rece, Subic: WirelWse: 0° Connie Fox: 2247 San Diego Ave Suite 297 San Diegd. CA SAID. And pleats, lt uskenow where yuo weting Rom) ‘we asics ot STEPBYSTEPWIRE,.COMChain Maille: Passing On the Love When the Seythians first colled a piece of straight wine into a sing in the Ist millennium B.C, they dide’t krow they had taunched a new fashion. During the Age af Malis 300 years, master eraftomen working in guilds wove chain maille garmenis by passing one jump ring Ahrough ‘our others and linking them into spear-proct, batleewady armor. From the 10th to the 13th Centuries, betore a knight charged into battle, he hoisted a 50 Tb huanie called a fewerk, over a protective garment stuffed with horse hair, weapped she gorgel allached to a steel helmet asound his throat and pulled up his leg coverings ohawsses|, Once he pulled on his saulllets or mitons, he wns fey to oust Chain mailleamnor, (also referred to.as mail, naidle and loin anil), protected knights and Semurai until plete amor replaced it in the Téth Century. Standing, in the Metropolitan iit that is al Mtabachire constrected itineirea mn of Att isa Japanese suit of armor piece, Yoshihisa 0 A.D, using 4,500) old-lacqucted stee! plates and gilded bronze mail Hinks; 245 yarels of orange silk benid, eather, and 1,000 rivets Contemporary armorer Remie Pisarchics has been creating chain maille ensembles, from coif to 40,000-ring sauntlets, since 1993, and fne has the calluses te prove it He teaches the weaves, creates the armor, and wears it into battle reenactment at The Society far Crrative mixed-media master Berne Pisorchick's cain maille eo = STEP BY STEP WIRE JEWELRY Amiclrnism, inc. Pisarchick leamed the hard way that although maille protects against stabbing or slashing, it dloos not protect against blunt force tuna, PPisarchick uses the Luropean four-in-one patiems ancl the Japanese weave, in which small rings con rings together, to weave his chain maille clothing, When heisn’t siudying for his Masters, selling fossils and yrs thie sore and at shows, or galloping into battle on foot, Pisarchick uses a rod inserted into an electric drill to make wire cols "buy Me and 1?-gauge galvanized slecl or electric wet larger cattle fencing in 4 or Yemile spooks. This wire is han Dut in time, you do build up the muscles in your arms and hands Once you have calluses, ito longer hurts.” laughs Pisaredick, Elaine Unzicker Jeweler Elaine Undicker bypasses the pain factor by coring her chain maille by the yard. Unzickes, who has Vest wih cast bronze avealytus brooch ‘Summer 2006ist parse wit hemiotte endl tan MEA in jewolry and seulptere, took a chain maille workshop in 1984 thal changed the look of her jewelry She discovered that linking jump rin metal « fluidity that accommodated almost any shape. By Using chain maille Tike @ textile, Undleker could take metal where if had seldom gone before “Ibis only by purchasing chain maille lide fabric that L ‘can make purses because they are very lime consuiming, and complicated. | was inspired by antique chain maille purses and studied how chain maille lies and maves. 1 dliscovercd if leonstructed a bottom and worked from the bottom up, the mesh would hold a torm. 1 like to go. beyond shat others have done and cmate work that sid, into weaves gave reaches people on different levels,” she For 20 years Uncicker has draped, shaped, and linked. chain maille into 6 1b. vests, tank tops, belts, purses, 50” scarves, and neck-Augging jewelry: The Cingho Dickey, a wiock tustleneck necklace, 1s an astounding fusion of metal and tevtile that blurs the boundaries, Unzicker softens the machine-made look of her mesh collection vith pearls, stones, and cast fragments from nakere, The glow from bronze and gold-plated cattail ecds, tree of heaven, watar ash, aecl estalps pods ack! synergy Cost bronze ash pod dicley Uncicker teaches Ti Chi Chik, which refers to the per fevt balance between yin and yang, the tivo forces a) the universe. In that capacity, she allows the energy ancl lite force fo flow. Unzicker has alse transfersed this mastery to ‘chain maille, allowing it to flow across the body’ as testur= al jewelry and clothing that pays homage to armor. By: Finking chain maille into larger, more sculptural work that highlights the intricate Beauly of sts repettions, Unvicker takes ito its nest incamation asomamental clath “The oli) energy enhances intuition ancl creativity, ‘enabling my creative inspluations, It also helps me trust inv intuition ona deeper level. Working, with chain mail feels exactly right to ms,” che explains, Unaiekes's work can be se and in Lark's new book on chain maille at her 10 shows a year Romancing the Chain: Esther Lee Back in the 1980s, when Alabama jeweler Esther Let ‘list began wice wrapping, she was surprised that wrap- pers did not use handmade chains In complement thoir wrapped pendants, When Lee began looking for chain anil wire wrapping instructions, she knevr why: “The attitude of wire artists who guarcled their tech= niques like state secrets made me determined! to master these tecliniques, and then leach anyone iwho wanted to learn. And with the help of back issues of Wire Artist from Friends, and the Web, J eaiedt how to make chains,” Lee satd The Byzontine chain, Lee's fst chain, looked harder than it was, In fact, he Fekist Reuad wa licalt Once Lev cracked the secret code, she kept her rs olution, and published » book in 2092. Since then, she has published heok a yea making, wite wrapping and making fameworked becds, This self;proclaimed “southern gr!” produces every aspect of her four bool lty for each Book, te photographing them, and writing theinstructions. Lee is a multi-talented entrepreneur who owned a printing company and advertising agency ier magazine, instruction such move di filled with instructions on chain rom making 101 pieces of jews12 Euthar Lee's lates desig before becoming photographer and commercial artist, working among the country music community, Ter Ipooks reflect her flamboyant personality that is passion= aveabout chain making. Lee maybe the anly chain maker ‘with jewelry that matches every outfit Although Le gives private classes and demanssrations a the Ris Grands Cataiyg ir Moti show in Tues, fa the past 1) yearsshe has worked with doctorsasan artist, help- ing tocuver up scars and applying permanent cosmetics Tam aware that as a medical and gusmetic tttoo artist, I am doing permanent things to people. That's quite a responsibility, But the tension rolls away when 1 am in my studio making beads or chains,” she sti Lee's chains are based! an traditional patterns, but she makes them her own by graduating them, using twisted and square wire jump sngs, adding her own lamp. worked beads, anel finding navel places for chains, ike ber granddaughter’s jean loops. “While working on one dasign, I sew another one in ny head and become anxious to make the next one. But | Gon’t think Tl live long enough to get everything rmade—or keep the arthritis at bas: I's 9 tool junkie, so 1 aclvise people 1 buy the best jewelry tools they ean find, have no plans ty retire, so | eneautage peuple to get in touch with me uehen they encounter 4 pnblem and Vl talk them through it. My Web site will be up soon so jew elry addicts will have a forum to share ideas and chat ‘After creating hundreds of chains, 've learned to read a pattern, but Becky Goga can really tend a chain and fige re out how to da il, When [met Becky, 1 was so impressed by her ability, [told her she was the first pee- son | had met who was as addicted as I was!” Becky Goga Nine years ayo, when Helen Goge, Canaan jeweler and publisher of Wire Artist feller magazine polled up ‘chair next to her husband to teach hirn the King she din’t Kno she wes inspiring another chain’ maker watching from the sidelines. Youn Becky quickly Teamed the link and another chain maker jsinod tho fan Linky ly. Onge Tecky tow became a master, she made herself a Kiag’s Link piece with 14K gole-tilled wire “Tr openeed a new woriel for me. The chain pattems challenged me in new ways, and made me think ae atively abou patterns for new cieins. For me, the best art S Laking a pation and playing with it, becanse ean make a deamatic ditlee sometimes a simple changs cence,” Sie sai Becky wove her way through the puatlerns until she encountered the brick wall commonly knows to chain makersas the Sake Chitw Bust unlike Lee, Becky discov ered a community of jewelers happy fo share their insights. The Draganscele sas initially difficult, taking, Docky a day to complete a2" 8" strip. Itnow takes her a couple of hours 2006 has been 9 slellae yeas For Becky. Aswell asintense college studies, she also published Chains by Becks, a book containing 25 step-by-step patterns, including her Favorites, Soreudipily, DNA, and Lacey-Chaby, The book's STEP BY STEP WIRE JEWELRY Sunvmer 2008Iushly illustrated instructions inspired even thisnovice to pick up a poir of plices, ane parlicipatein the magic. “Tused vo teach with my mom, but now mainly teach children or ieens connected ta pragrams at Toronto's epital for Sick Childeon. My favorite group is the kids with facial differences, but L have alse volunteered! with theburn unit” Anne Mitchell Anne Mitchell's leaching earver began eight yess ag when a friend asked her ty deapher a pieee of flat chain imaille. The friend was mystificel by how it was linked together, but Mitchell figured it out instantly: Her fiend Lnsisted she make the piece then teach the pattern, "The concentration required to begin complicated pat- terns such as the Fite (Full Persian Round) or the Shake ‘Anne Mitel’: in) Vetebree bracelet. Woich for © Slee-by: Step grojecto his design in en upcoming iss. Chain (Persian 40-1) is soon wplaced by 2 Zen-like process. The repetitive nature of a chain's 35 steps ie 80 relaxing, you feel you con work gut the world’s problems going. from step 10 step,” she explains Mitchell uses a delicate louch, chain nose, and bunt pose pliets to open andl close jump rings. She uses pliers that open themselves, to make minute, contsolled move- ments that clo not fatigue hanes, Mitchell uses a produe- tion Jump Ringer” placed insicle a partially sealed box She wears safety glasses ancl a heavy-= (B) with two soldered rings on it. | Glose the oval jump ring. Set it aside. Ne Meech mos ae cies eur Mel a Scoop up four soldered rings (©) onto tt and close it Cee eel tue Main iain ns non-dominant hand. Onto the B hang one ©, the Meee Pee cteainsl enc usu -tent Manel A es | Ps ee Cee erase A Ute cu ance Cots eee N nt electri Ons e! Jot easier than trying to repair the finished piece. ee eEM erie Aeon a) Paneer einer ic aa Wel Se WOU Pe eue enc cele Cree eet ra NOCue urn ue Ness RS eemct unmas= CNC ren uc uas Petco reelnia sas iiae n E here einer Maske Open the remaining B. Hang a ©, the most recently Perea aiuto n) Test the bracelet for length. You could eliminate the last B in this step, and hang the clasp directly onto the end A, or an additional B {with C's) between the eeu nein sree LL the rings are smoothly clesed. 9 aol rere tern sana Cee arene ator Naan Prttetticrenrecre seer eee Reicren rice Beorieer nim ares eo ees3, reminding, me of an Egyption collar. This came my Signature piece for 2005, and 1 wore it to all my — exhi shows. ]| decided that in showing the steps, if would be easier to work with less wire. and just ereate a con- tral focal design. This centval pieve may be attached place. Each fall wrap should have 4 motions, Use the pliers to close the front and back, and your thumb to push the wire aver each side. When you toa wgular chain, fibers, leather, orany other varia- tion or corel, personalizing the pie, finish your wrap, you may need lo woverap your first binding, pull it tighter, and rewrap i, Likewise, when you finish your piece, open your last wrap (back side only}, and pull hard, flattening lhe end, Re-close. This will alow the wrap to he flat against your skin, For binding the wires: Always art the wrap on. the back or inside of the piece, off-centered so your rent wrappings are straight against the piece. Wray the wire slightly back against the previous wire When closing if with pliers, it will snap flatly into Trace the cabochon on paper. Mark the center with a vertical line, with the top binding lines '4" out, the bat- tom binding lines %&" out, and side wire lines 1" out. aah ant Straighten your wire prior to cutting by drawing it through @ polishing cloth. Cut 6 pieces of square wire: 1 piece 14" (bottom back). 2 pieces 814" (bottom top wires), 2 pisces 7° (top back wires), and 1 piece 915" ((ront top). Separate the top wires and bottom wires, and put them in order. front to back, centering all the wires. Tape both sels of wire approximately 72" out from center. Mark the center with a Sharpie”, Measure and mark the binding, Mark the top lines 16" from the cen- ter-matk, and mierk the back lines %° out from the center mark Bind the top wires using 216" of half round wire, Bind the bottom wires between the previous marks using 8 4° of half round wire, with 8 wraps showing,Use a polishing cloth to tease the top back two wires up, and the top front wire cown, | Use your drawing to mark both turning points. Mark | them on each side. Measure to double-check the dis- tance. Bend each piece outward at a 90° angle. Bend the bottom wires to fit the curve of the stone. 1 77 | lke 10 use a ring mandrel, but any hard circular object | will work. | Mark, and bend the bottom wires at the turning point | up 45° at your side wie lines (from Stop 1), On one side only, match the top front wite at the turn- >) ing point to tho bottom @ wires at their turring points, © | ee out making sure te top tnt wires ontop of | the bottom wires. Bind using 2" of half round wire, making sure the starting end of the half round wire is on top. Bind 6 wraps showing. Repeat on the other side. | After taping, but before binding, double-check that the 1 0 wire will fit around your stone. Wrap, Make any neces- sary adjustments. It should fit almost perfectly. Minar a adjustments may be made later.Flip the piece over. Bend the back top wires at 90° towerd the center. Use your drawing to tind the center line, and band those wires perpendicular another 90° toward the top. Tape the wires 1/4" from the bend you just made, Mark \4" from the top center of the piece. Bind the wires, starting on the inside. Using 372" of half round wire start binding, stopping 4" from the top of your * completing two wraps, double-chock to sure your bottom wirss (90° bends) ine up. Adjust if necessary. You wil need to adjust the binding wire around with your fingers, curving it slightly Secure with each turn of your pliers. At top of the wraps, bend tne wires 45° out to line up th top set of hound wires. Tease your new top back vires to match, as in Step 5. Flatten the side middle bindings on both sides using wide flat oliers. In your lett hand, suppart your piece The support should be under the top, center, and bot- tom bindings. Held with the front of the pliers facing you. Rotate the top of pliers up, with your hand in @ downward motion, like hammering in slow motion. Tape both sides. Mark the top outside wires, including the wire from the back, 3¢" out from top bindings, 1" from the outside edge. Using 1%" of naif round wire, make 6 wraps on each side, Flatten the top bindings, this time starting with the pli- ers facing away from you, and tuming the tip up.» Cleopatra's collar [9 Tease the top set of wires up and the bottom set of | oy | wires down Straighten ne bate" ote tot a es 17 | Tape the wires, Mark out 1” from the top cutside bine _! ing. Meas. nd repeat on the other side Join the top and bottom right sets of wires by taping 2" away from the bindings on the top wires. Measure >) the distance on bottom wires from bottom binding Mark 1°" on the top sets of wires on both sides, Mark the bottom right set to line up with the top set. Mark the same distance on the other mirror half of your piece. Tape the newly marked side, and line up your markings, Using 14° of half round wire, start over your marking and wrap 6" out, toward your tape, leaving the tail of the wire up. Do not cut your wire! Repeat on the other side, Remove the tape on both sides, Cut the bottom square wire 44" from the start of the binding, where your mark is, Be careful not to cut your binding wire. Mark and cut the four middle wires 10 7& QO) 102 the frst bincing, closest to the center of your | piece. Place your round nose pliers at the top of your ~ cut wires. Bend the top (long) wire around your pliers, so that it becomes the new botiom wire. 9] Cut your new botiom wire flush with your old bottom wire, Continue binding bundled wires together finish- ing with a1" bound aree. Repeat Steps 20 and 21 on the other side. qj _—, On the front, bend in the bottom front wires between | the bottom center and middle bindings, using the | J 22 wide flat pliers. Two bends on each side, 4 total on | the bottom tront halt. Mirror bend on the bottam on the top side of midcie binging WIRE FwELe:Turn the piece aver. Slide in the stone from the bot- tom back, Secure the stone by mirroring the four (roni bottom bends on the back side Use the wide flat nose pliers to separate the top wire of the bottom set of 3, about ‘4s’—just enough to insert a 24-gauge wire, Form a loop with your 24-gai @ round wire, using your chain nose pliers. Attach it © your separated square wire, When adding beads, do each step as a mirror image, doing the right end lefi side before moving ento the next set of beads, Add the beads in order: One 2mm bead, two 6mm, one 7mm, three mm, and one 2mm. Secure them to the single bottom back wire, where the wire shows in the decorative triangle. Star the next wire on the top single angled wire, at the top center Add one 2mm bead, one Smm, one 7mm, one 5mm, and one 2mm, Secure them on the 24-gauge wiro, to tho inside of the 7mm bead from your last row, using two loops.Simple wire earring jackets. SKIL LEVEL OO BY KIM ANDERSON We all own lols of Gny stud earrings—stone, gloss, metal—and sometimes they just don’t have enough prese id this pair of any studs and add drama and style Simple to mak -00] to wear!© style & flair Measure and cut 7 pieces of wire 216" long. Hold all @ pieces of wire in one hand, and pull them through @ polishing cloth several times. This will polish the. ‘wire as woll as straighten it, and make the wires all move together. ‘Choose 9 wires to be twisted. Insert them each, one at a time, hallway into your pin vise. | use a tubular Pin vise, which is open on the back end, Hold one end of your wire with the pin vise, and the other with pliers. Count the number of times you twist your wire. This way, you will be able to duplicate the umber of twists on each wire so they're uniform. Loosen your pin vise, slide the remaining portion of wire out to the end, and re-tighten your vise. Put your Pliers on the last twist, and hold securely. Again, Counting the number of times you twist the wire, twist the second half of the wire to match the first nal. Place your twisted wires in botween your straight ones. Put all the twisted wires in the middle, and put the straight wires on the outside Use blue painter's tape, tape your wires together in the middle. On each end, using 2 marker or soft pen- cil, mark %4* from the cut ond. This is where you are ‘going to place your wrap wires, Cut 6" of 22-geuge half round wire. Bend one end to make a hook. Fit it snugly against your wire bundie. STEP BY STEP WIRE JEWELRY. Survsen ss Hock your end onto the bundle of wires. Hold it securely, and make one wrap. Use your pliers to tighten your wrap wire each time you make a turn Be sure that your wires are very close together and smooth. You will be straightening your bundle wires end your wrap wires from time to time during this Process, to keep them straight and neat. Be sure you begin and endl your wraps on the same ‘side. You will have 3 wraps on the front. They need to be nice and smooth, and very close together. Bo sure to file smooth the ends of your wires before Slatting this next step, Even though the ends are curled inward, it is good to get into the habit of filing, Decice which end you want to be the botiom of the earring jacket. Using your round step pliers, make a loop on this bottom eng. This will be the bottom of the ear jacket. On the top end, separate 3 edge wites, and bend them back just a little, ‘wie boss of STEPBYSTEPWIRE.COM,® style & flair ‘Again, use your round step pliers to bend these 3 wires into a complete loop. Turn your earring jacket over, bend out the other 3 edge wires, and repeat so you will hava only one mi dle wite sticking up. Bend this wire sidevrays at « right angle to the loops (on the top of your earting jacket. Using your round nose pliers, make a nice round loop. ‘There is approximately %" of wire here, and will make. a perfect loop. This is what it should look like at this point. Leaving the tape in place to keep the wires secure, Use a round object to make the bend in the botiom part of your earring jacket. Ike to use the end of my pin vise—there are several different diameters on a pin vise, So you have some choices in how tight you want the bottom curl on your earring jacket. Like to just meke anice U shape. You can make it tighter ifyoulike. Experiment—you willenjoy the variations. BY STEP WIRE JEWELRY Summer 2008‘This is approximately what your earring jacket will |0ok like. You can leave the wires close together if you ‘Want, or you can use ¢ nice sharp flat blade Knife to spread the wires. Hike to work from side to side—open one wire on the tight side, and open one on the left side—going back and forth. It is easier, in my opinion, to obtain even resuits this way. By varying the length of your wire, the number of wires, and the combinations of metals, you will be able to come up with many different designs. 9 Kim Anderson lis wih her husband mother, and eat, Angel in ‘tat. Kim Honed her soldering skis in Salt Lake City where she and her husband ovned a radiaor rmpsirshop, Her husband encouraged hero kam si ter soldering and she did over a huge industil fadiator tale Kan has ber working with sre aret aD years Ore] he nionion of te enpanoree Gem ard Minecal Society, Marlene Fotewor, was Kim’s fist wie ieecher You can sce mote Of Kis worl at wm newiredenigre cor. subscribe today Stepbystepwire.com “tite bosics of STEPBYSTEF WIRE, COM, ByNi dL) GL Coc eCCL: PCLT PT ect at ae Fe ke k=) Pyne elayiste TOOLS & SUPPLIES Bueeetce ves Remar anes Clem iec our aes re rier aes Camara toe Caan Bee ict tonoe saes Cra seen) Ren Bears chmc ni epee ee tay Ceo) ercteticy = Mandre) plastictubina, pen= Citar woce Berney Ratan Slee acca) ois Bye ruee hous Gisiie- ane eis fcc Decent rey cue Et Pots + hain nose and reund nose fee Sic Serene Cease iar euny Bee eieturie-c) Pe Liptay eps1 tec what you're thinking! Knitting ® doné have LOTS of kinks. The veire must “urwol” to ave swith needles, Well-—sometimes. | classify a product this problem, I invented a stand. The first one was by the result, not by the provess. ‘morely a scrap of un-sanded % Knitting produces 3 material plywood, with o large nail that has vertical (to the base) pounded in the middle and a iit- loops. It is fluid and smooth. tHe eyoscrew at one commer. The Crocheting has interlocking hor- spool goes on the nail, and the izontal loops and is not as wite is threaded through the stretchy a8 kiting. You don’t eyeserow. The stand eliminates need a ncedle to hol the loops ‘most of the kinks. You will heve cwhon knitting with wite so yOu A to watch for the rare occurrence can “knit” with a crochet hook. { ‘of springcTike action. Since the When Lfirststarted using fine [oa mA first rough stand, 1 found that wire for knitting, | had a lot of hobby shops have wood plaques ttouble with the aire kinking. When allowed to kink, in the right size that are pretty to look at the wire will break with only slight pressure. [would recommend that you practice with 25- T ilscowored Hhat a great ceal ofthe cause of kink- gauge craft wire, especially if you don’t knit or &ror ing is allowing the ire to come off the spool incor- chet. is helpfulif you make a few 6" practice lengths. rectly. If it comes off the spool like a spring you will re Hold the wire as if you were crocheting. Note the use of electrician’s tape to protect the fingers. j Loaving a 10° tail of wire, wrap the wire around the hook, and twist to make a starting loop. Make sure all the loops are loose on the hook. Use the hock to grab the continuous wire. The closer you grab the wire to the starting loop, the more cen. trol you have over the size of the new loop. 4 STEPBYSTEPWIRE COMchained melody Pull the wire you have grabbed through the starting loop. You have 2 loops in a chain. Make as many loops as it takes to go around the mandral loosely. Flatten this base chain of loops with your fingers, and make sure that itis not twisted, Place the base chain of loops on the mandrel, and wrap it around with the ending logp still on the hook. Push the hook through the starting loop. Grab the wire and pull a new, connecting loop through both the ending loop and the starting loop. With the one new, connecting loop stil on the hook, pplace the hook into the next loop of the base chain. Pull anather loop through.‘There are 2 loops on the base chain, Push the hook into these 2 loops. up to the flat place on the hook, to make those 2 loops the same size. Remove the hook from both loops and repiace it in the newest loop, leaving the first loop free, Don't worry, it won't goanywhere. Place the hook into the next loop of the starting chain, ard pull up another loop. Again, push the loops up to the flat place on the hook to make them the same size. Remove the hook from both loops and replace it in the newest loop. Repeat this step until you are eround the chain base and have come back to the first new loop. Push the hook into the first connecting loop on the chain base, ‘and continue repeating this step in a spiraling manner Lk Until the chain is the length you want. Sometimes you will come to a loop that is 100 small to get the nook through. Use a large sewing neadle to pull these loops larger. This will take some of the size out of the next loop, so you will probably need to use the needle on 2 or 3 loops before you can go on with out using the needle first, Should you break the working wire with a kink, you can simply splice it back together by twisting the 2 ends, cutting twisted section short, removing the chain from the mandrel, and pushing the twieted splice into the center of the chain to hide it. Do not cut the working end of the wire off until you are sure that itis the length you want. ‘Stop when you are about 1" short of the desired Iength. Before rolling, the chain should be rough and at least a little uneven. If you want a 16" chain, knit about 15", and roll the ‘chain to see how much stretch you are going to get. Sometimes you will have a litle or no atretch, There Is Siig usually less than 1” of stretch, depending on how tight ee your work is. It is also dependent on how tight you put fs the starting chain on the mandrel, If you have too few | SS aS loops for the mandrel, you will get little ladders between the loops that will be pulled in when you roll the chain. This makes the loops longer—and gives ss ‘them more stretch. Keep the loops short and small and be careful to make sure that there are enough loops on the mandrel, ‘wae bavics ot STEPBYSTE®WIRE COM© chained melody Place a wooden dowel that fits loosely into the chain, so that the dowel will slice easily into and out of the chain, not ke a marble in a tin can, Using a few sheets of newspaper uncer the chain, rol! the chain ‘gently at first, with the dowel inside, with the 3° x 9" ‘scrap of wood. ‘As the chain becomes smoother, you can apply more pressure. Do not use a table that you would not like to be damaged. Put a large kitchen cutting board under the chain, so you do not mark the table. Hang the working end of the chain over the edge of the board so ‘that you do not roll across it. Th's way, you don’t have to enlaige the loops again if you decide that the chain is too short. If you do close these loops up while rolling, just push a large needle through them to get them in ‘working order again to add more to the chain. Continue to roll the chain using more and more pres- ‘sure until itis very smooth and even. Your chains will become more smooth and even as you gain skill Onoe you have your chain rolled to your satisfac- tion, all you have left is to finish the ends: Prepare a piece of 1" plastic tubing of a diameter that, will fit easily into the BEGINNING end of the chain. Cut a 8%" pieoe of 20-gauge wire, and make a small ‘wrapped Icop no lerger than the outside diameter of the plastic tubing at one end. ‘Add a bead that will neither pass through the plastic tubing, nor be larger than the outside diameter of that tubing. Bend the tail of the 20-gauge wire at a right angle to the tubing.Piave thie rig into the working end of the chain that stil has the open loops. Placing the crochet hook into the last new loop and the next loop, pull a new loop through both of these two, leaving one loop on the hook. Going through the next loop, pull the wire through it and through the loop on the hook, leaving one loop on the hook. Cantinue around the chain to where you started. Lace the end of the wire through the begin- ring loop and back through the loop that is left on the hook. Pull it tight and smooth. Push this end into the chain and out again, and cut it off.| use a butter Knife to press the end down smooth and even around the tig wire, Being careful not to let the rig wire fall into the chain, make a wrapped loop with this wire. When the end is finished, roll it carefully with a wooden ruler unti it is smooth, ‘At the beginning end of the chain, push the hook into a space in the chain just under the 10” tail of wire, and pull up alcop. Remove the hock from this loop and pull, up the same number of loops that the chain is made of, evenly spaced around, Use a mandrel to do this. Remove the mandrel, and place the rig in the end as before. Close this end as you cid the other. You can install simple figure eight nooks on both ends to change the pendants you use, or wear the chain alone. & Gail Jewell Gav's grandmother taught ber to crovvet wht she wwasSyetrs old. The texte and color ofthis artwork fascinated het, This is where her dzive to create Deu ty bean. This drive follovted her Uhecugh many iadiuits, ofl and water color painting. sculpting, find many forms of needlecraft and lately, ite evel ty. To this day. she sally enjoys working with that hhoole At age 61, she decided to take up Lampworking whieh Ted £0 Temewwrapping aad from thete to emcheling with wite.full cee ipy/ /GAILJEWELL ollsumpestcom. gallS24022y hoo som irc besies ot STEPBYSTEPWIRE COMi es. bangle Homiuge to the Southwest. Shae) b IN GONZALEZ-HICKS: Deno after viewing the jewelry and artistic ee ecaiscetnre te Indian tribes in the fantastic “Totems Cetiieemencaere ee eRe e pt ene Murr Cet eee ee reo ar ry ese non cat poe ele certo nee cel tg CO oeeenecarremtnr eaten ecto ae ee terete ets etic) the horizontal inlaid treatment normally found in many Seeger Twas intrigued by the idea of worleing; with beads “in Pesce erste |) urna Pie) a heishi disk beads. Heishi beads work best for this proj- Prey ce eee eee eee ate eer TOOLS & SUPPLIES + To-gauge found dead SoU steitog sIher + Rout and fat Bat beads wth a disk, ~ Flush or semi fish euter vite 20° type shape (Rishashay, Nina Desions, cr « Black pemanent marker (Sha’pe") + 24-gauge ound dead sot steting siver_ Shgahata) + Sina bead dishes to holt loose beads wir, 80" + Latge round nose ples Sal rourd,andfathashiteads + Chain rose pes thee deine by nd Se a hp (Sinn daretr/isk te brads ih + Fat nose les 7 norm sie and shape ores)will want to decide upon the number of silver beads tiple, and | would encourage you to complete 1-2 You want to insert among your colored heist eoloriul, vere | Depending on the Iook you hope tw achieve, you Third Mesa Bangles look great when worn in mul is, mone so you ean enjoy wearing them ‘and repeat the pattern across the length of the piece, tical groupings, Tam sure Charles Loloma would i Tho number of wire wraps between exch bead you have also recommended doing that. | rinxt down will depend upon the size of the heishi For more information on Charles Tolomaand other | beads you use, You will need to wrap enough times American Indian Jewelers, please reference the so that each bead will not nub against the one placed “Totems to Turquoise” book, written by Kari Chalker, hetore it, You will want all of your beads to lie neally Peter M. Whiteley, and Lois Sherr Dubs, and pub- | = | bangle should measure 7%” or 8" for a larger wrist co | Creating the loop on the end will add anotner 14" at end, please account for this in determining the length ; that will feol most comfortable to you. Should you nave a larger wrst, your designs should measure a bit longer to either 813" or S" Measure and cut a 15° piece of the 16-gauge round wire, This piace will be the base wire, oF core, of your bangle. Using your round nose pliers, bend the wire imo a U shape leaving a 2" tai Using flat nose pliers, bend the tail at a 90° angle leaving a 1" tail. Your wire has been bent into what looks like @ number 4, Gently hold the head of the number 4 with your flat nose pliers. and gently wrap the tail around the base wire using your thumb to achieve 2-3 cail loops. Ens that your coils sit parallel against one another.> third meso bangle — Mark this saction ‘é" down from the end with your Sharpie’ Using your round nose pliers, bend the section around the arm of the pliers to form another U shape. You have created the clasp hook for your bangle. Using your round nose pliers give a slight “fin” to the end of the clasp. Place your beads inte a couple of small bead trays for easy access. ‘Cut 2 segments of your 24-gauge round wire 10.40". This i$ a manageable length of wire to sew your beads onta the bangle. You will need to secure each bead slowly and gently, boing minaful te nat allow the 24- gauge wire to kirk up as you Sew an virap each bead. Begin by wrapping 10 loops onto the bracelet base wire, placed close to each other and parallel alongside the finished hack. Snip off the short tail. The long length of your 24-gauge wire will be used as your “neadie and thread’ to sew on your beads.‘Sew on a heishi bead by inserting wire thro: hole, and securing ir 9 the base wire. Wrap 2-4 loops between the beads, so that hi lies flat, and doesr’'l crowd up against the grevious bead. Use the sare number between each heaci as you sew on the rest of your be Altemnate your design between your heishi fla beads and your silver beads. When you use up the segment of wire, bind in the new 40" segment of wire to continue on. It is best to end the first wire betwoon 2 beads with 1-2 wrappad locps. Start the new wire by adding 2 more wrapped loops, then add the next bead, sade, Continue sewing the beads until the bracelet is the length you desire. Gently wrap your piece around your wrist, The eye loop will adel another 14", You should ly be able to Ueiemine f you may need to add y adcitional beads to lergthen the size. End the design with another 10 loops of the 24 gauge wire Using your round nose nliers, form a loop leaving a 12 gap on the mandrel wire to wrap your final 16-gauge 198, next to the 24-gauge loops you just completed. Holding the loop with your chain nose pliers, wrap the long tail around your base wire as many times as. needed to fil the empty space, and close the loop. Genily massage down the cut end, using your chain nose aliers, @ Erin Gonzalez-Hicks SPE [FG ll Fer toylt SMT A Tee Atte Expo, Asele-praclaimed “bubesnian trappestin a Saporae sou whan not faving wore for es Hye pert 4 sree sna eas attehindeszns on| | j | | BOOK REVIEW Mcking ts hp The pn nom Colorful ey yon rela spe Wire and annoprte Beaded fer ng Jewelry i BY LINDA JONES needles materials and tools ec pina feta low. sedi author outlines ations making use of 2 variety of .é-made wire dangles, and the kind of gold ancl wp charms you would find while REVIEW BY ERIN GONZALEZ-HICKS: Interweove Press, 2006, paperback, 128 pogas, $19.95, ISBN # 1596680148 e antastic é th an insatiable desire 1 explains ‘corner vintage shop. ey of techniques and & rework, al af inte 1 ful for successtul completion of each of thepr this edition, @ UG bass aia alse AICS ma Tips, Technioues & Too's Pech) si MOSER lee call 866.836.7865 www.stepbystepwire.com For advertising Informaton, contact: Joseph Breck, Publisher» Ph; 610.252.5701 « Emalt soph breck@primsda.com ‘To cary this magazine in your stare, contact: Donna Kraidman « Ph 610232.5728 » Emall:donra-kraidman@primedia.com