rar, t orm earl 0- A STEP-BY- EP GUIDE TO Landscaping ror Clean Water ano Healthy Streams‘The Oregon Rain Garden Guide Landscaping for Clean Water and Healthy Streams Text by Robert Emanuel and Derek Godwin, Oregon Sea Grant Extension Oregon State University (OSU); ‘and Candace Stoughton, East Multomah Soil and Wter Conservation Distiet Sample rsin garden layouts by Heid Bil Plan ist compiled and edited by Teresa Hunsinger, Oregon Envicanmental Council. Other significant contributors include Angela Boudro, Jackson Soil and Water Conservation District; Linda MeNtahan, OSU Extension Service, Yarbill County; Jay Jonas, OSU Extension Sewvice, Tilamaak aunty, and Nel Bell, OSU Extension Service, Marion County Editing by Rick Cooper, graphic design by Patricia Andersson, Oregon Sea Grant, OSU, Cover atwork: “Rain Garden” painted byJohn C. Pitcher © Good Nature Publishing 2009, won goednaturepublishingeam 200-61 4086. ‘This project has been funda in part bythe United States Erviranmental Protection Agency under assistance agree. iment €P-oaq5i05 fo the Oregon Deparime nt of Environmental Quality, The contents ofthis document do nat necessarty fleet the views and policies ofthe Emironmen al Pretaction Agency, notdoes mention eftrade names or commercial preducts constitute endorsement or recommendation fr use Many thanks to those who reviewed this document, plantlists, and sample planting designs far aceuraey and appro. pristeness, Special thanks to those who made cont butions of photos of text. © zo10by Oregon State Unversity This publication maybe photocopied or tepritad ints enttety br noncom rete) purposes. To ordet additional opies ofthis publ stn, eal 9737-4849, This publeation avalabe in an accesible format on gur Web sie at hip seaprant erezonstte ed sppubsfolinepubshtm| Fora complete lst of Oregan Sea Grant publications visit hitpseagran .orepansiate dulsgpubs “This teport nt prepared by Oregon Ses Grant andes sad mares NASGOARAI7OGNS (ptojact suntberEPBET-c8- PD) fromthe atonal Oceanic and Amospheric Adminis aton’s National Sea Grant College rogram. US. Depa iment [Commerce ad by sproprations exude bythe Oregon State lepslatuve Thestatements, digs, conde sons, and recommendations are those ofthe authors and do rot necessary reflect the views af these farders ‘The production ofthis guides part ef Sormuster Solutions, collective public education effort irvolving several partners Partners responsible forthe production a this guide include the iloing: OLUTIOn me (Oregon Sea Grant, Corvalis, Oregon GRESUHso-001Contents Introduction. The purpose ofthis guide ‘What isa rain garden? ‘Why build a rain garden? Building 2 Rain Garden: A Step-by-Step Approach ‘STEP 1: Observeand map your site Determine how much area the rain garden wil treat. ‘STEP 2: Determine the location ofthe rain garden ‘Gowith the flow Respect the flow Divert the flow Regulations, permits, and desi gn modifications Measure the slope STEP & Assess soil “Testing infiltration Determining soil texture Interpreting the infitration test ‘STEP 4: Determine the sizeof the rain garden Rain garden depth : Dig safely! Delineate therain garden Getting water to the rain garden Disconnecting downspouts Designing for overflow. Keys to success ‘STEP 5 Constructing a rain garden Exeavating, grading, and berms. Grading Plumbing the rain garden, To amend ornot to amend? ‘STEP 6:Choose the “right plant far the right place” Planting zones and plant selection ‘Compost Key plant characteristics Planting tips A note about invasive species Mulching ‘Watering 2 rain garden ‘STEP 7 Maintenance ‘Weeding, pruning, and mulching Don't drown your plarts! Arnote about Oregon's regions ‘Sample Rain Garden Layouts Rain Garden Plant List For more information 88 SEE RSRERS Ba % 6Intreduction ‘The purpose of this guide What is a rain garden? The Oregon Rain Garden Guide was-writien to help rain gardens a sunken, generally flat-bottomed ‘Oregonians leam haw to design and build rain gar- garden bed that collects and treats stormwater ens to treat the stormwaterrunofffram their own runoff from rooftops, driveways, sidewalks, parking homes or businesses. Rain gardens are "gardens lots, and streets. Rain gardens help mimic natural with a purpose”; they help reduce the amountofex- forest, meadow, or prairie conditions by infitrat- cess water and associated pollutants reaching local ing stormwater from hard surfaces. A varity of lakes, streams, and bays. Ultimately this resus in planting plans are included in this manual for your healthier waterways, fish, other wildlife, and people. reference. This how-to guide provides information specific Rain gardens keep our watersheds healthy by. to Oregon's conditions, includin the rainfalland appropriate plants foryoursite. You dan't haveta ‘ducing flooding by absorbing rain water form bea stormwater, garden, orlandscape professional hard surfaces tousethis guide. provides thenecessary infore = fering ol grease, and toxic materials before imation to safely build and maintain arain garden, _—_—they can pollute steams, lakes, and bays along with references for more detailed guidance recharging groundwater aquifers by allowing for special canditions: You may also contact the tater to soak inta the ground authors and partners rect for mare information. —y sviding beneficial wide habitat Figure 1: Crosesection ofa ‘ypical ran garden. (Crophe by East Matnamh Sot nd Wer Comrichin Divi BUD Boy PSEC Fagy RAIN GARDEN DICTIONARY: Impervious surfaces are a'2zs that do not allow rain ar snowmelt to inflate or soak inta the soil below the surface (or example, roofs, driveways, roads, sidewalks, and patios). Same ground areas MR that have bean severely compacted from heavy equipment or foat tafe may ska be considered impervious if mostof the water nuns offthe surface when it ins 4 “TheG razon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy rearsWhen the Pacific Northwestwas covered with forests and prairies, rainfall slowly dripped through branches and vegetation, seeped through duff and sank into the ground as it slowly percolated to nearby water bodies. As parts of our landscapes became mare developed, the rainfall that lands.on hard surfaces was routed into pipes, ditches, and stormdvains. Much of that runoffis routed directy to streams or into the sewer system. The resuit® ‘Too much water flowing in a shart amount of time, caryying pollutants that negatively affect the health of our streams, lakes, and estuaries. Today, managing stormwater runoff by infiltrating it nto the ground is one of the simplest ways to actively protectour sireams. Rain gardens help us restore the natural water eyclein the landscape, which is tical to ensure heathy streams in both small towns and lage sities, No. For reproduction, mosquito larvae require number ofdays in standing water. Most urban mosquitoes breed in places like) unk piles where there are oldtires or tin cans, In a well-designed rain garden, waters rarely stand ing long enough for mosquito reproduction. Ideally, rain garden shoulddrain so that water Won't be standing in itfor more than 48 hours For more information, see “Mosquitoes” at ‘eniomology.oregonstate edujurbanent) z a x : 4 5 4 Figure 2 top]: newly installed rain garden in Tillamook County, Oregon. Figure 3 rmiddlejs An established sain garden in Portland, Oregon (by Blossom Earthworks) Figure 4 (bottom: Sircams inthe Pacific Nort west ‘are normally buffered from pollutionand sudden flashes of waterby their suraunding forests and gasslands. nan urban environment, water from roofs.and streets soften piped directy into streams, delivering pulses of polluted, damaging water and sometimes causing localized floding ‘The regan an Garden Gude: Landscaping for Clean Waterand Healthy Sear 5The following steps will help you assess the characteristics of your ste so you ean design your aiden to capture and treat water safely and ef- fectively, build it correctly, and maintain ito be a healthy and beautifil addition to your landscape. STEP 1: Observe and map your site The fist step is to assess how water flows across your property. We suggestyou create a map of Your site that includes the measurements of all ‘structures, with arrows to indicate where the water flows after the rain lands on these surfaces. See Figures Garden: A Step-by-Step Approach 1. Walk through youryard and note any obvious- slopes of lon spots. 2. Note areas where water mightdrain to your neighbors’ or public pro perry. 3 Site our potential rain garden where water flow: ing into the garcen willbe higher than where water will naturally ext the garden 4 Look for areas nearby where overflow from a rain piden can be absorbed or safely directed into an approved stormwater collection point (such as astreetside gutter and storm drain) Determine how much area the rain garden will treat Next, decide which impervious surfaces you'd like ‘to manage using a rain garden. Measure the wicth and length ofthese surfaces and multiply them together to give you the square feet of surface area to betreated, See Figure 6 for an example. Therain falling on the part of the roofoutlined in red drains into downspout Hi and could be directed into a rain garden, Width of Surface Area x Length of Surface Area = Area (square feet) ‘An example: roofarea draining to downspout Hn is so feet x12 feet = 360 square fet ofroofarea ‘STEP 2: Determine the location of the rain garden Go with the flaw ‘Theeasiest place to build a rain garden is relatively close to a gutter downspout. Ifyou want to build ‘only one rain garden, consider using the dawn- ‘spout that captures the largest portion ofthe roof Ifnecessary, you can route water rom several downspouts to one location. I is also possible to rehang your gutters to move the downspoutto a more appropriate spat Figure 5: Map of home ste indicating measurements ofstructures that shed wate, and the dieetion the water flows (erophic: EMSWED) ‘Tred repon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy SeamsT Note: a rain garden should not be constructed in alocation that stays wet throughout the rainy ‘a50n, since this is an indication of poo dy drained soils Respect the flow Rain gardens must be-designed to carefull capture and treat stormwater on-site and send the excess cxerflowduringa large rainstorm off-site, without damaging sinuctures and other property. [To prevent slumping and filing ofthe following structures, make sure the outer edge of your rain garden is atleast: ss three feet froma sidewalk 1 sixfeet from a basement 12 two fest from a crawl space or slab a ten feet from a retaining wall [To prevent landslides and surface erasion, do rnotplace rain gardens on slopes steeper than 30 percent. Ifthe property does nothave adequate fat ‘areas and you are stil interested in buildinga rain garden, contact a licensed landscape professional ‘or engineer for design modifications to safely store and route water offsite without damage. Divert the flow Rain gardens are designed todiain water ta the soil layers below the garden for treatment. Ta ensure adequate drainage and treatment while not pollut ing groundwater, rain gardens should not be placed in the following areas: 1 ontop of a septic drain feld. When uphillof a septic system, provide atleast so fect between a rain garden and the septic system. = where a seasonal groundwater table is within three feet ofthe bottom ofthe ain garden (about four to ive feet below ground surface) 1 areas that stay wet during the rainy season, such as wetlands, natural springs, or seeps sin soils that don't have good drainage (minimum of 2 inchyhour infiltration) or on bedrack 1 In soils that have been contaminated by chemi- cals or othertoxie substances = under or immediately adjacent to tees, fdigging will disturb their roots During very large storms, rain gardens will ‘overflow because the soil becomes saturated and cannot hold allof the water. Special precautions ‘should always be used to route the overflow to a safe location, away from structures, steep slopes, and neighbors’ property. Your rain garden should be at least fve feet away from property lines, and the overflow should not be routed to the neigh- bor's property unless itis an appraved location, such a5 a ditch or swale in a ight oF way Figure 6 Map of homesite indicating surface area and direction of watesflow to downspaut Hi (Gephi aswCO) ‘The Gregan Rain Garden Guide: Landscaping fr Clean Waterand Healy Steam‘Grape: EMsweD Regulations, permits, and design modifications ‘Some cities and counties have specific regulations regarding disconnecting downspouts, routingor piping water offsite, and setbacks to structures, steep slopes, and property lines. They may alsa require a permit. Always check with your city's building or planning department ifyu ine within city limits; otherwise, check with youreou nty government. Rain gardens may be designed with impermeable liners, rock renches, and piping to safely route water anay from structures and of site. These de- Signs would allow you to build rain gardens closer to structures,on steep slopes, in soils that don't drain well, and in other challenging situations Howover, these designs are beyond the scope ofthis guide. We recommend thatyou contact a licensed landscape professional or engineer for assistance with these alternative designs HORIZONTAL DISTANCE (233°) Measure the slope Tools needed: 1 Two stakes 2 Survey ina or string « Line level = Measuring tape 1 Caleulator ‘Steps: Measure and calculate the slope of thesite to as #23 how water willbe routed o and from your rain garden I erticalta make sureyour property has a slope ofless than 10 percent before constructing, ‘arain garden there. 1 Place stakes inthe ground at thetop and bottom of the slope to be calculated, 2. Attach a survey line (orany heavy-duty string) ta the two stakes, Be sure thatthe line touches the ‘pround on the uphill stake. Use the level to make ‘sure the lines level 3. Measure the horizontal distance (along the line) between the two stakes. 4 Measure the rise (vertical distancg from the ‘round up to the ine on the downhill stake. § Caleulate the slope by plugging your numbers into the following formule: RISE HORIZONTAL DISTANCE 310% Note: both measurements must use the same increments {for example, inches). RISE= HORIZONTAL DISTANCE= 233" 2 77%. 100% 333 ‘Tred repon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy SeamsSTEP 3: Assess soil ‘The ability oF silto drain water is one of the mast important considerations for understanding the site and properly sizing arain garden. An infiltration and texture tes will help you determine the soils capacitytoabsorb and percolate water down into the lower layers Testing infiltration 1 Diga test hole in the area where the rain garden will be built. Try to site the hole in the middle of the planned rain garden. Dig a holeto the expect- ed depth of the rain garden (from grade ta the top of the rain garden's base). Note that ideal, this {est should be done when soils arenotfrazen and when groundwater levels may be highest, such as in the spring. 12 Fill he hole with waterto just below the rim. This should bethe same depth of water expected ifthe ‘ain garden filed to the rim. Record the exact time you stap filing the hole and the time it takes to dain completely, 3 Refilthe hole again and repeat step 2 two more times. The third test will give you the best mea- sure afhow quickly your soil absorbs water when it is Fullysaturated, asit would be during a rainy period of the year or during a series of storms that delivera lotof rainfall in a short period of time. Building 2 rain garden to handle these conditions is a way to be sure you willnotcause damage to your own ora neighbor's property. «4 Divide the distance that the water dropped by the mount af timeit took forit ta drop. For example, if the water dropped 6 inches in 2 haurs, then 6 divided by 12 equals 1/2 inch per hour of infra: tion. I the slowest infiltration rate meas ured of the three trials is less than 1/2 inch per hour, then you should diganothers to 6 inches deeperand repeat the above steps. Repeat this process at various depths down to 2feet, or until you have at least/z inch per hour infltration, I Note: Soils with drainage of less than 1/2 inch per hour are not appropriate for rain gardens with- ‘ut significant modifications in design. Consult a licensed landscape professional orengineer For : i i : i assistance in these circumstances. ‘The regan an Garden Gude: Landscaping for Clean Waterand Healthy Sear 9Figure 7 Conducting a sol fel test by making.a ball with the moistened cil, to see how easily it falls part as well aswhot texture it has (sticky, silky, or git (Phat Gina Eman Figure 7b: Using a soil ibbon totes soi forclay, eam, or sand content. The Jangerand firmerthe ribbon, themore clay contantin the sil. Phote: Gn Emons) Determining soil texture 1. Take a handful ofthe soll you have excavated from your infltation test. Pulverize it in your hand and remove any bits of organic matter or obvious racks 42. Wet it with a small amount of water and rub it between your thumb and index finger. Don't saturate it untlit is minny mud. You might feel stickiness, grttiness, or smoothness. The gritter the feel, the more sand is present in your soil The slicker the soi, the more-clay int. Smooth soils are sometimes an indicator of afine sit or loam. Diseard the soi +3.Next, take another sample in your hand. Wet it Until it has the consistency of dough. You should be able to forrma ball that holds together with the soil in your palm. If you cannot get the bal to form, then your soils very sandy. In most oils, however, you should be able ta create a rough ball. 4.Knead the sol together between your thumb and fingers and attemptta farm a ribbon. As you build the ribbon, i willsither hold together or break off Ifthe soil breaks quickly in the process, ‘then i likely has a high sand content. Ifthe rib- bon forms quickly and stays strong, ithas more clay. wa Ifthe sailforms a ribbon less than 1 inch in length before it breaks, the sail is sandy or sity 12 If the sail makes a ribbon 7 to 2 inches in length before it breaks, the soil is clayey. 1s If the soil makes a ribbon greater than 2 inches before it braaks, it may not be suitable for a rain ‘garden constructed without professional help, depending on how fast the sail drains during the infiltration test 10 “TheG razon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy rearsInterpreting the infiltration test Less than /2 inch per hour Do not build a rain garden on this site without professional assistance: Low infitration for arain garden, Homeowners may want to build larger or deeper garden, or likewise plan for additional overflow during high-rainfill storms Between 3/2.and 1 inch/hour Adequate infitration fora rain garden, Plan for sufficient cwerflow Between and: af inches/hour | Cay haghranfill storms ‘Adequate infiltration for a rain garden, Plan for sufficient overflow Between sya and 2 nches/hoe ea anllstorme High infltration fora rain garden. Design should feature fewer rmoisture-loving and more drought-tolerant plants. The rain garden may also be sized to hold smaller amounts of water, have. deeper Faster than 2 inchesfhour rmulch layer, or have denser plantings Building a better soil ‘Amending with compast is commended to improve inital plant and microbial health. If your sollhas high clay content, soil amend- ments may be needed to improve conditions for good plant heath. Sites with very high clay content and low drainage are usually inappro- priate for the types of rain gardens described in this guide, without significant altering the design for better drainage (such as adding subsurface drain pipes and drain rock). Ifyou plan to amend the soil atypical soi mictute contains 20 to 40 percent orgaric material Compost}; 30 to 30 percent clean, coarse sand; and 20 to 30 pereert top soil Note: do not add sand toa highlyclayey soil Soils are commonly amended to adepth of 18-24 inches. STEP 4: Determine the size of the rain garden ‘Always check with your local planning department public works, or stormwater utility beforedesigny ing your rain garden. your local jurisdiction does not have a recommended size calculation fora rain garden, then we recommend the size of the rain garden be at least 10 percent af the impervi- ‘ous surface draining to the garden. Rain gardens should ideally be between 6 and 24 inches deep To.use this number, your sol should drain at least 1/2 inch per hour or greater. Compare the resuit of your soil infiltration test with the table above, for «good idea of howyour soil influences the size of therain garden. Rain gardens of t percent and 3/2 inch minimum infitration rate should rest a large majority of storms in Oregon Using the area ofimpervious surface that you ‘calculated in Step 1, multiply this by 70 for 1 percent). The result will be the area ofthe ain garden in squate feet. The calculation is: ‘The regan an Garden Gude: Landscaping for Clean Waterand Healthy SearFigure 8:Ponding surface it denoted by the dotted Jie. [Gephi: EMSWED) ‘Typical ponding depth 6-24 inches (Length of surface area x Width of surface area} x.10= total rain garden area ‘An example 30 fet 12 feet = 360 square feet 1.10 = 36 square feetof rain garden ‘The more impervious area you want to treat the bigger your garden. The size of your rain garden will also depend on the space available and your budget. Ifyou don't have enough space, you can build mutiple rain gardens or build. a smaller one and plan for it ta overflow more aften Note: Rain gardens should bea minimum of fve feet wide to accommodate gentie side slopes that will host plants and minimize sail erosion, Rain garden depth Most rain gardens should be between 6 and 24 inches in ponding depth with 2-4 inches of ad- ditional depth for safety. This means that rain gardens range from 810 28 inches in depth, The table below isa general guide for rin garden pond ing depths based on different drainage rates. Add depth where overall sie is restricted by setbacks, structures, vegetation, or ather obstacles. > Note: remember to accaunt far the addition of mulch when you plan for your finished depth (see “Mulching” on page 23). For example ifyou are adding: inches of mulch to your final planted ga ‘den and it needs to be at least w inches deep, you must excavate toa depth of inches fram grade RAIN GARDEN DICTIONARY: The size ofa rain garden refers to the volume ofwater it can hold before the water overflows at the exit point. This wolume is described in terms of ponding depth and square feet of surface area (depth xwieth x length), Ponding depth is the depth at which the water can pond beforeit flows out ofthe rain garden (seeFigure 8). itis measured from the surface ofthe rain garden at its lowest pointto the clevation of the outlet. Rain gardens gener- ally should range between § and 24 inches in ponding depth, adding 2-4 inches of extra depth below the outflow for safety eed Between 12 and 1 ineh/hour 12-24 inches Between 1 and 2 inches hour 6-Binches Faster than 2 inches/hour G inches “TheG razon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy rearsIt's the law in the state of Oregon to call the Utility Notification Center by dialing 81 or 1-Bo0-332-2344 before beginning ary excavation. The service is free and convenient for homeowners, contractors, ‘excavators, landscapers, etc, Anyone planning io dig must contact the Center atleast two business days prior to digging, in order for the underground uiltes to be located and accurately marked using color-coded paint. For more information on digging safeb, visit the OUNC Web sie: wow digsafelyoregoncom Delineate the rain garden Use a garden hose, string, stakes, or marking paint ta delineate the boundary ofthe rain garden onthe site, Before you dig, be sure to nate any existing unites or vegetation that might be damaged by digging (see note above). Getting water to the rain garden Your garden will not actually be managing storm- water ifitdoes not collect rain water from your home's impervious surfaces. That means you ‘must find ways to get water from your collection points to your garden, sometimes by digging i Ae - ‘enches, runring gutter extenders, or even buid- ia prod - ingartifcalstrearnsthat run onlywhen thersin Figures ga and.b Delinating rein gorden boundaries with a garden hose (0p) falls. The water may be routed using a pipe. rock gr marking paint (above) Phte by bert mane] OSL) tiles, or otherhard surfaces, or a small swale (ditch) lined with rack (34-inch diameter, washed drain rack or pea-sized gravel) If using a pipe, we recom- mend a 4-inch diameter ABS, Ifnot using a rockined trench, the outlet of the routed water and inlet ofthe rain garden should be lined with rock (again, 3/4-inch diameter, washed drain tock or pex-sized gravel) to preventerosion In addition, a4-inch-wide strip of grass could be used to fiter and settle sediment from your rain water before it enters the rain garden Figure 10: Moving watarfiom a gutter toa garden canbeas simple asa piece of bured ich drain pipe. [Note that the pipe buried ot lost 12" below the surface as required bp Oregan's plumbing code. See ote anpage 19. Phot: Fartand Bureau of Eviranmental Services ‘The regan an Garden Gude: Landscaping for Clean Waterand Healthy Sear 3Figure m: Using a rock-lined tren Figure x3 (right): “cryDisconnecting downspouts Disconnecting downspouts is an important part of rain garden construction. Avoid creating safety and structural problems when disconnecting any donnspouis from your storm sewer by following these safety guidelines: = Don'tdisconnect a downspout in an area that is too small to drain the water pro per 1 Disconnected downspouts must be extended to discharge water at least 6 feet from a struc- ‘ure with a basementor 2 feet from a crawl space or sab foundation. 1 Directwater away from your structure, a retain- ing wall (by atleast ro feet, a septic drain field, for an underground storage tank 1= Theend of the downspout extension must be atleast feet away from a neighboring property ands feet from a public sidewalk. Do not direct water toward a neighboring property, es pecially ona steep slope. Steps Fordisconnecting: 1, Measure the existing downspout from the top ofthe standpipe, and mark itat least 9 inches above the standpipe.A standpipe isthe pipe leading into the below-ground storm sewer. 2. Cut the existing downspout with a hacksaw at the mark Remove the cut piece, 3. Plug or cap the standpipe. Do not use concrete ‘or another permanent sealant 4-Attach an elbow tothe newly cut downspout by insertingthe elbow over the downspout. Then useatleast two sheet-metal serews to secure the two pieces 5. Measure and cut the downs pout extension so that when itis attached, you willbe fallowing the safety guideline above. Fit the extension ‘over the elbow and attach itwith sheetmetal 6. the extension does notconnect directy to a below-ground pipe-or lead into arain garden, use a splash block or gravel to prevent sol 7. Remernber that each section should funnel into ‘the one below it All parts should be securely fastened together with sheet-metal screws. Be sure ta maintain your gutter system. Inspect itregulay for leaks, sagging, holes, or other problems. Ibis a good idea to annually inspect and dear debris from gutters, elbows, and ather ‘connections before the rains arrive. This material is condensed from “How to Manage Stormwaier: Dewnspou Disconnection" Oty of Portland Bureouof Emironmental Senvices publcation 85 o7on.thisused here with permission ‘ofthe Ci of Portland, BES. The full dacument can ‘be found at sow portlandonline.comyloesfindex. fin te= 626ea=1 88637. Figure 14. Downszout connected te downspout ‘extension that directs flow ase from a building's foundation. Note shes-metal screws. (Phote:Reert Emon OSU) ‘The regan an Garden Gude: Landscaping for Clean Waterand Healthy Sear 5When propery sized, arain garden is designed to handle roughly 85~50 percent ofthewater that falls on a given impervious surface. There- fore, extreme events should be considered when designing your garden. Forthis reason, itis eritical to include plans for overflow. This should be a notch ora pipe in the berm, at least 2 inches lower than the berm. The overflow could lead to one of several options: Figure 15: Curb-cut inlet fora parking lt and an overflow device (pipe and sere) for a parking lt in Gresham, Oregon Phot: Dek Godin OSU) Figure x6: PVC pipe ousflow from a coastal Oregon rain garden. The racks, ‘mulch, ond gravel help protect the avea from erosion, (Phate: Reber Emonusl, OSU) «a flatarea in your home landscape where water can be safely absorbed, 1 another rain garden, = aFrench drain or rockfilled soalage trench, maswaleor drainage ditch, or 1 return stormraterto its original destination be- fore the ain garden was built auch as a public sewer, street gutter, storm drain, or pipes and catch basin) Be sure to discuss your plans for everflow with your local planning department. They typically have specific, approved locations for draining the overflow offsite. They may also require a permit fora rain garden. Figure 17: Arain garden in Gresham, Oregon, fils with rain, Note the use of rocks at the ausflow point rear top. (Pots yf Craham) 6 “TheG razon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy rearsNote: For smaller gardens, ar gardens in high rain- fall areas with soils wth low initiation rates, you will need to take extra care in routing the overflow aay from the garden in a safe manner. Keys to sucess Permits and design modifications: Check with your lacal government (ety or county planning department) to 1s find out whether you ean legally build a rain guiden (and whether you need a permit) 1 get information on diseannecting dawn spouts oF routing water affthe site ss learn about any design requirements-or setbacks You may decide that you need the help of a licensed landscape professional arenginger. Be kind to trees: it's a good idea to avoid placing a rain garden beneath the drip line of large tees. The tree roots vill be damaged by the excavation and may also be ‘uerwhelmed by the amauntof waterthat pools beneath them. When is the best time to build? The following schedule is recommended to pre- vent sil compaction, maintain the soil's ability to infitrate stormwater, and minimize the need far watering the plants: 1» Conduct site assessments and design the gare den inthe fall, winter, and spring when the soil is wet but nat frazen: = Excavate and build the garden when the soil is dry enough to work with easily; and «= Plant vegetation in the fall and as early as pas- sible the following spring. STEP 5: Constructing a rain garden Excavation, grading, and berms Plan to place the spoils o the outside edge of the ‘garden and away rom the inflow point, Use the spoils and any excess soil amendments to farm the berm that bounds the rain garden on one ‘ormore sides, depending on the terrain, Berms should be built to have at least.2 inches of height above the elevation of the outlet [Whether digging by hand or machine, excavate the:sollfrom the outer edge of the rain garden to ‘minimize soil compaction We recommend that the slope on the rain garden berm beat least 18 inches of horizontal length to 6 inches of vertical height (51) or latter on both sides ofthe berm. the rain gardan is 12 inches in dopth, you will naed to have 36 inches of slope on either side of the berm Figure x8: Excavators located outside ofthe win gonden inorder to make sure the machine does not compact sol inthe sain garden. (Phot Robert Eman, OSU) ‘The regan an Garden Gude: Landscaping for Clean Waterand Healthy Sear 7Grading The rain garden sizing process assumes the bottom ofthe garden is level nd the sides are gradedito 2 ss1slope. Even the rain garden is constructed on ‘slight slope, the bottom of the garden should be approximately levelto allew water ta be distributed evenly throughout. We recommend you use a line level, stakes, and measuring tape to ensure that the totalsurface area and depth (storage volume) are built as designed in Step 3, Do this by placing string across the surface and hanging a lne-level ‘on it Then measure the distance from the string to the soil surface at frequent intervals. You should do this throughoutthe garden's ponding surface (see Figure 19, below). Figure 19: Grading is made simpler by using ur siakes, one af the inflow point and three atthe ‘opposite or lower end ofthe min garden—incling, ‘most imporkanty, the outflow poins. (Photo: Robert Emanae OSU) Figure 20: Using 2 combination of line level and @ ‘meocuring tape allows you to grade the boss ofthe garden so that water wil not pool in @ particular location but will reed across the emi sure as cverly os possible. hots Raber Grama OSU) Figure 21: Fourinch ABS stomn-drain pipe connects smacthlytoa dawnspout froma raoftoa rain garden in Pocfic City, Oregon. (hos: RobersEmanut OSL) Plumbing the rain garden The overflow point—either a swale or a pipe— should beat least 2 inches below the top of the berm on the downhill side. Similar to the inlet, you place some rock, ti, or atherhard materials, «round this pointand atthe pipe oufall to mini- mizeerasion. Plants can also be used ta reduce soil erosion. Where pipes are used far inflow and outflow, grad- ing is importantto keep erosion atthe exit point to minimum and to keep water from backing up toward yourhome or other buit structure. A good rule of thumb is to grade your pipes to drop about + neh for every 1 feet “TheG razon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy rearsNote: Oregon State Plumbing Code requires that any buried utility pipe should be at east 12" below the soil level starting at the downspout. It also requires underground plumbing to bea durable rmuterial such as Schedule 40 ABS or PVC. While corrugated plastic pipes are frequent found in rain gardens (including some photo graphed in this {guide}, these materials may net last, especialy in calder climates. f usingan inflow pipe buried 12 inches deep, a rain garden's fnished depth will need to be between 14 and s8 inches fe dear ek termes Figure 2x: The point wherewater enters rain garden should be well armored Rain gardens depend on healthy plants and soils withrock andplants (beach strawbe ries hve) fo prevent sion. to capture, clean, and flterthe stormwater runoff, (Pict: febut Emonuel OSU) ‘As mentioned in Step, your soils may need to beamended to ensurestrong plant survival and rmicrobial health. Where possible, your existing soil should be tilled to 180 24 inches deep if amend ing with compost, topsoil, or sand. See nate on page zo, Figure 24: An outflow notch in a Portland, Oregan, rain garden, protected by sock to prevent soll erosion (Pets Rebus: Emanse, OSU) Figure 2x Fourinch ABS pipes here will convey water ‘fom this building nto a vain garden. Pipes like these ‘must be graded to drop abaut vinch for every 10 fet sowater flows away rom the building but does not buildup 120 much velocity by the time arrives in the ‘ain garden. (hes Rebet Gmansct OSL ‘The regan an Garden Gude: Landscaping for Clean Waterand Healthy Sear 19STEP 6: Choose the “right plant for the right place” Fertilizers and pesticides often contribute ta stare. water pollution in streams and lakes. Since rin gardens are designed to treat stormvater uno, it is very important to choos plants thatean survive and thrive without chemical inputs. Itis also good practicete choose plants and design your garden to eq ite minimal to no extra water Planting zones and plant selection Plants vary in their tolerance of certain conditions, suchas shade, flooding, moisture, and cold tem. peratures, while maintaining their ability to survive and grow Rain gardens have zones that vary in wet and dry conditions and possibly sunlight and shade; therefare, plants need to be selected based ‘on their tolerance to these conditions and placed in the corresponding zone to survive and thrive. Furthermore, plants need to be chosen based on theirabilityto survivein the climate relative to the region in Oregon in which they are planted (thatis, Willamette Valley, coast, southwest, central, and casi). Rain gardens are generally meant tobe low maintenance. Figure 25: Rack, gravel, and sedges protect the inflow pointina rain garden. (Phot: Chis Lata OSU) ‘Compost ‘Compost helps the soil hold moisture, increase microbial stivity, improve its abilty tofiker and adsorb pollutants, and increase plant survival inthe ‘ist few years as @t slowly biodegrades. Be sure to use weed-free mixes. ENote: Rain garden plants do nat have ta be wet land or water plants. In fat, they should be able to ‘erate drying out for long periods with litle to no supplemenial irrigation, depending.on where you lve in Oregon and how lon gthe plants have been established. Rain gardens can be divided intathree zones, rela ‘ine to theirwetand dry conditions: moist, moderate, and dry. Ifyou select plants from the lists provided in ‘this guide, be sure to pay attentionto their designa tion as tolerant of “moist " ‘maderate" and “dry seil conditions. Use plants tat are designated as doing best in “maderate” and “dry” canditions anly -an the slopes or atherwise dry parts ofthe garden Da net puta plant thateannot tolerate "wet fet” in ‘the bottom or wettest partof your garden, because it ‘sould drown during rainy periods Soil type will also influence the plants and the size ‘of different moisture zones. For example, rain gar dens builtin high-ela or slow-draining soils should be planted with more plants that tolerate “wet ‘eet," while rain gardens in sandy or fast-driing soil can be planted with more dry-adapted plants (listed here with "moderate" or "dry" designations. In fast-caining rain gardens, group your meisture- loving plants-within afew feet ofthe inflaw points RAIN GARDEN DICTIONARY: Zones of wet and dry conditions 12 Moist: plant prefers moist soil and tolerates dey soll other times ofthe year. = Moderate: plant can tolerate maistand dry soils equally 12 Dry: planttolerates and even thrives in dry soil during most of the year “TheG razon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy rearsFigure 26: Planting zones.eflect the areas where the garden wil have the most and leost unter when flooded, os swell as during the dry season. The grophicon the left lustrates the topographic zones ofthe rain garden, the ‘gaphic on the right ilustrates zones of high and low soil moisture during the dry season. (Crophic Roers mms, OSU) 1 Filing up the rain garden and watchingit drain several times willhelp you visualize where water pools andwhereitdrains quickly. This wil help you choose the “right plant forthe right place. 1 Visit local examples of rain gardens to get ideas of what plants thrive and haw the design works in your local area Because this guide was written with mast of Or ‘egon in mind, we recommend that gardeners use the lists and designs provided here a suggestions, rnotas ironclad rules to follow. Be creative, and be prepared to experiment with the garden, garden areas and conditions are always va‘iable, and no cesign is fit-sae. MOIST 18 Remember that plants can do same of the work ‘tomake arain garden easier to maintain. Some especially tough plants, such as sedges or bunch {prasses, should be grouped around features like inflow and outflow points, to slow down water 4s itenters the rain garden. Use groundeovers ‘on berms and ather areas where erosion isa concern. Several designs are sug gested on pages 28.35. E The area around your inflow will retain the most moisture in your rain garden, meaningthat what you plant there must be the most tolerant of moist soil Figure 27 Planting zones in this ross section iustrate where sol willbe moist during the wes season. {Gophe:E14swC0) moperaTe I] DRY Eee Por rad ‘The regan an Garden Gude: Landscaping for Clean Waterand Healthy Sear 2Key plant characteristics Other plant characteristics and plant selection While rain gardeners should focus on selecting and placing plants that may tolerate more or less water, there are other characteristics to note. Remember, rin gardens can and should be attrac- tive features in your landscape, rather than just places to treat stormwater. Other characteristics to consider include: 12 What isthe plant's height and width? 1 Does the planthave attractive foliage, flowers, or fruit 1 Does itattract beneficial insects and wildlife? 1 Dees itloak good with neighboring plants and landscape? 1 Seasorality 1 Shade tolerance 1 Temperature requirements [Remember that plants grow! This simple fact should keep you from overplanting your ain gar den or placing plants too close together. Respect their ultimate size requirements and keep in mind that these vary throughout Oregon Planting tips ‘When planting, be sure to dig a planting hole at leastas big as the po, ifthe sol has been amend: ed. Ifyou are planting into unamended soil, dig thole thatis at leasttwice the diameter but the same depth as the pat. Mest native and nonna tive plants need to be planted atthe samedepth astheywere growing in their pots. Leave some compost and soil misture mounded at the bottom, 4S appropriate, to keep your plant at the same level sit was in its original container Carefully remove the plant ror its container. Ifthe plant rootshave formed a solid mass around the ‘utside ofthe pot, gently loosen them or carefully score the outside layer with a sharp knife. Lower the root ballinto the planting hole slowly, to prevent cracking or breaking ofthe soilaroundthe roots Ifthe root ball was opened up, spread samme ofthe roots averthe moundin the center of your hale Backfil yourhole with welkdiained soil rich in ‘compost, being careful io make sure you do not caver the crown of the plant ifit was exposed in the original container. Be sure ta firm the soil around the plant and water well with a slow stream ‘of water or soaker attachment. Anote about invasive species Invasive plants such as English Ivy, Japanese Knotweed, spurge laurel, orbutterfy bush cost Oregonians milians of dollars in control, prevention, and direct ‘economic lasses. An invasive plantis one that escapes cultivation and multiplies in other habitats, to the near exclusion of species that would occur natural, Gardens and gardeners are among the most important pathways for imasive plants to move into new places. You can help stop the biological invasion by eliminating known invasive plants fom your garden; preventing the introduction of new, aggressive plants, and replacing nonnative invaders with friendly native plants in your landscape. Forcommon imasive plants to avoid as well as someexcellent alternatives, consult the publication GardenSmart Oregon, available at ww woregoninvasivespecieshotline.org and through your local Soil and Water Conserva- tion Distriet or OSU Extension Sewice office “TheG razon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy rearsMulching, Mulch is another important part ofthe rain garden. Itwill help shade the soil and keep itcool and may increase soil moisture during the dry summer and fall months, The right mulch can also help contiol weeds. More impartanty, mierabial activity in the mulch helps ta break down some ‘ofthe common pollutants in stormwater For this reason, we recommend always apphing mulch ta nev rain gardens and maintaining some mulch in established ones Double-shredded conifer bark mulch falso known as ark dust") is probably the mast commonly used in landscape plantings in the Pacific Northwest. Douglas fir and herlockare the most commonly sold barks, though pine bark is also avilable. Bark rmulch is available ina range of grades, from fine ‘through medium to large bark nuggets: We recom- ‘mend using fine-grade bark mulch rather than nug. fgets, asthe later wil float, We do not recommend Using saveluster grass clippings, as these material vill ter yoursoil chemistry and can affect the abi ity ofthe garden to support healthy plants ‘Apply mulch at arate of 2-3 inches evenly across the rain garden on the edges or slopes of your rain garden. Ifyou choose notto use bark mulzh in the lowest point af the garden, then be sureto apply a ‘2-40 sinch depth of compost instead, Rocks and gravel areoften used at inflowand outflow aeasto dissipate energy fom water and prevent erosion. They wil aso make maintenance in the rain garden easier. Rock and gravelare importantdesign ements thatean add interest tothe rain garden Washed pea gravel is an attractive smal-grade rock fr use in the base of the raingarden ‘Compost is another alternative for cavering the base ofthe rain garden. It ill not suppress weeds as well as wood chips o+ other materials, butit will succeed in adding fertility 10 the soil and in ter- ing pollutants. More finely textured compost is less likelyto float in heavy rains. Apply campast at the same rate as indicated in the chart tathe right. How much mulch? To calculate the total cubic yards of mulch needed for your rain garden project, follow these steps 1. Mubkply the length of your rain garden bythe width to ind the square footage. 12 Mutkiply that square footage by 0.25, which will equate to 3 inches of mulch 5. Divide thatwalue by 27 to yield cubic yards of mulch needed for your project. The steps above canbe used to quickly estimate thennecessary amount of mulch‘o purchase based ‘on various depths of mulch. Remember not to pile mulch alongside the stem of plants. Mulch is moist and can lead to rotting around the stem, ‘Also, remember to break up any mulch that may bedry or clumped together as you spread it ver your rain garden For more infomation on mulches, please const: Bell, N., 0. M. Sullivan, and T. Cock. 2009. Mulch- ing Woody Ornamentals with Organie Materials EC 1629-£ ertensonoregonstote.du/cataleg ody eclecibay-e.pdf De ae ee oe ber) eee ese ee ae ay potcd e Fe 5 1 338 5q. ft 158 5q. ft 108 5g. fe 2 676 59. fi 7316 sq. ft 216 qf 3 nord sq. fe, 474.59. ft. 42 sq. ft. 4 1.352 5q, ft. 632 sq. ft. B2 sq. ft. 5 1,690 sq. ft. 790 sq. ft. 540 sq. ft. 6 2,028 sq.ft. | g48sa.ft. | 6485q ft 7 2,366 sq.ft. | ob sq. tt. | 7565q ft g 27o4sa. ft. | 1264 5q.ft. | 86459 ft. 9 3.04259. ft. | 1442289. ft | 97259. ft. 10 3,380 sq. ft. 1,580 sq. ft. | 1,080 sq. ft. ‘The regan an Garden Gude: Landscaping for Clean Waterand Healthy Sear 3‘Watering a rain garden Even after you have chasen and carefully planted “the right plant in the right place” and mulched ‘the garden, itis important 0 make sure new plants sget sufficient water during their frst and possibly second dry summer season, until they are fully ‘established. Ths is especially tru ifthe rain garden ‘was planted in the spring or summer ‘As with ary watering regime, water deeply and slowly during the coolest time of the day {evenings if possible). Soaker attachments or soaker hoses are particularly useful forthis purpose. Use a soil probe or stick tacheck whether moisture is pres- ‘ent in the rain garden at a depth greater than 2-3 inches. After the first or second dry season, depending upon how good the plants look and how hardy they a1, you may be able to stop watering altogether and depend on rain entirely. Remember that the more native plants you usein yourrain garden and landscape, the less sup plemental water you'll need +o apply during drought periods. Figure 28: A raingardenshor is mulched with gravel rather than bark (Phote Pertona es) ‘STEP 7: Maintenance Weeding, pruning, and mulching ‘You will need to weed your rain garden during the ‘rst couple of years. Try to get out allthe roots of ‘the weedy plants. Weeds may not be a problem in ‘the second season, depending on the variety and ‘tenacity of weeds presert. Inthe third year and beyond, the grasses, sedges, rushes, shrubs, trees, and wildflowers willegin ta mature and should ‘out-compete most of the weeds. Weeding isolated patches might stil be necessary on occasion. Be sure ta maintain the rain garden plants in ‘whatever fashion satisfies you the most—as a “wld'-looking garden,a more manicured space, ‘or somethingin between. Plants may need to be pruned as appropriate for the lack you desire in Figure 2g: Grove rocks, and evan dnftwood add to the interest inthis ain your garden garden. The pea gravel also acts as mulch, helping to retain soil moisture while at areca a cack aac ae ese ea Maintain the organic mulch layer your rain gar ‘den by replenishing it when needed. Apply mulch 24 “TheG razon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy rearsFigure 30 (abou): A nowly established sain gorden in ta_aainch depth on bare sil f your rain garden receives any sediment or soil eroded fram ather locations in your landscape, you may need to clean this out on occasion: It isimportantalso to keep ‘exposed the rocks, tiles, orotherhard surfaces you placed in the rain garden to slowwater at the inflow and outflow points, so that they can continue to slow down water and prevent erosion. Depending upan the local climate and plant choice, plants may need supplemental water during the summer. This is especially tue in eastem, cen- tral, and southern Oregon. The use of nativeand crought-tolerant plants will help reduce the amount cof supplemental irrigation during dry periods. Figure 3 (right): This Willamette Valley sain garden is planted with “Autumn Joy" Sedum (Sedum tlephium), sough sedge (Carecobnupta), New land sedge (Carex testacea}, yeloweyed grass reicur) and mallow (Malva spp} ng fr Clean Waterand Healy:Don't drown your plants! ‘Another consideration is to make sure your plants in the base don't drown in theirf stwinter. Plants need airin the soil, so when the rain garden stays ‘consistently flooded for long, wet winters it may become necessary to notch the berm at the. utlet ‘toa lower elevation ar add more notches to the berm. This will help the rain garden drain a litle faster and give the plants a chance ta establish healthy roots. After the first winter fllin the notch- es.and allow itto function normaly. Some profes- sionals and gardeners even advoeate diverting stomwater from the rain garden forthe firstyear or ‘wo while plants become established, especially in heavy sols Figure 32: rain garden in Portland, Gregon. (Pho: ForSond 65} Anote about Oregon's regions (Oregon is a much more geagraphicallydiverse state than most. Climates and soils can vary significantly between the coast, Willamette Valley Cascades, eastern high desert, nd southwestem mountains. Below are a few tips.on region-specific items to be scare ofin designing, building, or maintaining raingarden Willamette Valley: Most of the materials—including many of the plant selections in this guide—will help rain gardeners in the Willamette Valley. With its generally mild seasons, good soils, and mostly fiat territory the Willamette Valley presents fewabstacles for rain gaideners, When planning your rain garden for the Willamette Valley, keep these things in mind: = Summertime temperatures can occasionally ‘exceed go degrees; thus, some plants in sunny locations with fast draining soils will need supple- ‘mental itrigation—at least for the first two or three years while roots are becoming established 1 Wintertime temperatures in somelocations can drop well below freezing and thus create prob- lems for more tender or sensitive plants. Itis important to choose plants adapted to both sum- mer and winter conditions in yourarea 12 The Willamette Valley contains the state's biggest ‘ities, each of which may have their wn require: iments for on-site stormuster management {and rain gardens). Ifyou live in Salem, Eugene, ‘Gresham, or Portland, contact your local govern: ment formare information. Coastal Oregon: With the influence of strong Pacific winds, abun- dont rainfall, and generally milder temperatures, the coast can be challenging for rain gardeners but also presents some great opportunities. When planning your ain garden on the coast, keep these things in rind 1 Strong winds candry out and damage plants any time of the year, expecially for gardens located nearthe beach. Provide for shelteror plan your plantselections totake account ofthe wind dam- age. Additional water may be necessary during, “TheG razon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy rearsFigure 33: Rain garden at Astor Elementary Schoo! In Portland, OR. (Pho: Candoce Scuphion, EMSWCD) the summer months, when drying winds can be most damaging for newly established rain garden plants. = On the Oregon coast, rainfllis very abundant. Where coastal soils drain at less than 11/2 inches peer hour, size the rain garden to at least 15 percentof the impervious surface. For example, 41 rain garden is designed to capture runoff fram 11 300-square foot surfice. Hence, the-calcula- tion is 300% 35 = 4 45-squaredoot min garden Consult our online materials at extension. ‘oregonstate edufwatershed jrain-gardens For more information on using the "modeling method to size your rain garden for your soi and precipitation. 1 Somebeach homes are built on fossilized sand dunes. Soils on and around these geologic fea- tures will drain extremely rapidly, often in excess of zinches per hour, making a ain garden unnec- ‘essary or impractical Furthermore, the additional water from a rain garden built ona fossilized dune may cause itto slump or even collapse. We do not recommend constructing a rain garden under these conditions Southwestem, central, and eastern Oregon ‘Gardeningin southwestern, central or aster ‘Oregon canbe revearding but has its own setof challenges. These arid and semi-desert regions are characterized by volcanic, rocky, or clay soils, and steep slopes. And if that isn't enough, many gar- ceners must balance these restrictions-with hungry deer and the realty of living ina wildfre-prone area. When planning your rain garden for either region beep these factors in mind! 1 Ifyou live ina fre-prone area, avoid using plants in your rain garden that are flammable. Plants with dry material (such as leaves or needles) and those with fine stmucture, aromatic eaves, loose bark, or resinous sap tend to be flammable. Consult the Extension publication Fire-Resistant Plans for Oregon Home Landscapes for more information and a list of fire-resistant plants {evailable online at extension oregonstate-edu/ cemergency/FireResPlants.pdf or by visiting your lacal OSU Extension Service afc. ‘These semi-arid regions have long. dry summers with very litle rainfall. Depending on your plant choice, it may be necessary ta irvgate your rain garden two tothree times each summer to keep the plants healthy, attractive, and Fie-resistant If deer plague your garden, use rain garden plants that are also deer-resistant. Athough few plants aretruly deer-resistantin every situation, most nurseries can provide alist of plants that deer tendto avoid Central and eastem Oregon winters are longer and colderthan in other areas of Oregon. Plants ‘may not establish neveroots well in frozen soils. Plan to construct and plant your garden early ‘enough in the |ste-summer to allow for plants ‘tw become established, Native plants that can handle the annual swings in temperature will survive best in a low-eare rain garden If you live ina location with fast-draining volcanic soils, you might want tomake your rain garden shallower or smaller, depending on your space ‘constraints or needs. Consult our online maieri- als at extension o egonstate edu) atershed} rain-gardens for more information on using the "modeling method" to size your rain garden for your soiland precipitation ‘The regan an Garden Gude: Landscaping for Clean Waterand Healthy Sear aSample Rain Garden Layouts These sample rain garden layouts use plants suitable CENTRAL OREGON SUN for the state's diferent regions. Consider whether Abdi Coonan rato Sdentjiename you vantyour garden to be forma ino mal, round Be eel sure fur glabra o ‘oF square. Use these designs to give you ideas for Ds Douglas spiraea Spica douglasii 3 how to incorporate different types of plants into the: Dr Dwarfredtwigdogwood Comus sericea Kelseyi n wetter and drierzones of your rain garden, Ge Galdeneurrant bes aureum 1 Os Oceanspray Holediscus discolor 1 The abbreviations used will help you see at glance ae Conadagulieicd: §— “Selagucimiadbass ‘ which type of plantis being referenced, Two capital Common rush Juncus effisus vor pocfeus 22 Petes lec Wee a copa are eae de Daggerleaf rush Juncus ensifoius 3 bination denotes a shrub;and two lower-case letters ip Largedlesf pine Lupinus palyphylus 3 mean the plat i a perennial, rush, sedge, grass. pC Purple coneflower Echinacea purpurea 6 ye Yarrow Achillea millefolium 9 2B ‘Tred repon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy SeamsSample Rain Garden Layouts CENTRAL OREGON SHADE ‘Abbr. Common name Scientific name Qh NB Pacific rinebark Physocarpus copitatus 1 Bh Black hucklebemy Goylussacia baccota 4 Dr Dwarfredtwigdogwood Comus sericea Kelseyi 3 Su Gro-lawsumac Rhus aromatica Gro Low Mo Mockorange Phiodelphus fewisii 1 Ty Tall Oregon grape Mahonia aquifolium 3 Common rush Juncus ffisus var pacificus 13 th Tufied hairgrass Deschampsia coespitosa 20 wi Westem fescue Festuca occidentalis 10 ‘The Oregon ain Garden Gude: Landscaping fr Clean Waterand Healt Seam 29Sample Rain Garden Layouts SOUTHWEST QREGON SUN ‘Abbr Common name ——_Scientificname Qty PC Pscificcrabapple — Malusfuca 1 Fo Flowering currant ibe sanguineum 3 Nr Noatha rose Rosa nutkana 3 Tg Tall Oregon grape Mahonia aquiflum = re New Zealand sedge Carertestacea 4 sr Spreading rush Juncus patens 6 th Tufted hairgrass —“Deschampsia coeqpitosa. «8 ye Yarrow Actes milefolum x2 \ ‘Tred repon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy SeamsSample Rain Garden Layouts SOUTHWEST OREGON SHADE ‘Abbr. Common name Sciemtificname Qty. CA Caseans Rhanvws purshiona 3 Bt Black twinberry Lonicem involucrata 6 Eh Evergreen huckleberry Vaccinium ovatum = 8 Nr Nostla rose Rosa nutkana 6 Ty Tall Oregon grape Mahonia aquifolium 2 lp Large-eaflupine Lapinus pohypiylss 2 sb Santa Barbara sedge Carer borbarme 16 wg Wild ginger Asarum caudaium = 12 ‘The Gregan Rain Garden Guide: Landscaping fr Clean Waterand Healy Steam nSample Rain Garden Layouts WILLAMETTE VALLEY SUN ‘Abbr. Common name Scientific name Qy. SA Sitla alder Alnus vindis ssp. sinuata + Bh —_Baldhip rose Rosa gymnocarpa 6 Ro Redosierdogwond Cornus sericea 3 Rm Rosemary Rosemarinus officionalis 4 de Daggerleaf rush Junausensifolius 3 tt Tapertipped rush Juncus acuminatus 2 wi Westemfescue “Festuca accidentals 6 +16". a4 2 ‘Tred repon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy SeamsSample Rain Garden Layouts WILLAMETTE WALLEY SHADE. ‘Abbr. Common name Sciemtificname Qty. VM Vine maple Acer cirinatum 1 Dg Dull Gregon grape Mahona nervosa 4 Dr Dwarfrediwigdogwood Comussericea Keleyi 9 Sb Snowberry Spmphoricorus ba 3 ds Dense sedge Carex densa B br Smallfruited bulrush — Seippusmicrocargus 0 ‘The Gregan Rain Garden Guide: Landscaping fr Clean Waterand Healy Steam BSample Rain Garden Layouts OREGON COAST SUN ‘Abbe, Common name pw Es St a f Pacifiewilow Dwarfescallonia Silktassel ‘Curly sedge ‘Oregon irs Spanish lavender ‘Sword fern ific name Solix cide sp. lasiondra Escallonia Newport Dwarf Gamyacliptica Gorxnpestris (ris tenar Lavandula stoechas Polpstichum muniturn g ees ‘Tred repon fain Ganlen Guide: Landscaping far Clean Water ad Healthy SeamsSample Rain Garden Layouts OREGON COAST SHADE ‘Abbr. Common name Scientific name Oy. IP Indian plum Oenleria cerasiformnis 1 Bb Blie-idge blueberry Vaccinium pallidum 3 1 Common lilac Syringa ralgoris 1 Dr Dwarfredtwigdogwood Comus sericea Kelsayi 6 Common rush Juncus fisus var. pacificus 8 bh Patificbleedingheart —Dicentma formasa B ss Slough sedge Corer obnupia 3 sf Sword fem Polystichum munitum 6 ‘The Gregan Rain Garden Guide: Landscaping fr Clean Waterand Healy Steam