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Shore Protection Manual Anexos
Shore Protection Manual Anexos
Glossary
of Terms
American Geological Institute (1957) Glossary of Geology and Related Sciences with Supplement,
2d Edition
Johnson, D.W. (1919) Shove Process and Shoreline Development, John Wiley and Sons, Inc.,
New York
U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (1966) Shore Protection, Planning and
Design, Technical Report No. 4, 3d Edition
U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey (1949) Tide and Current Glossary, Special Publication No.
228, Revised (1949) Edition
U.S. Navy Oceanographic Office (1966) Glossary of Oceanographic Terms, Special Publication
(SP-35), 2d Edition
Wiegel, R.L. (1953) Waves, Tides, Currents and Beaches: Glossary of Terms and List of
Standard Symbols. Council on Wave Research, The Engineering Foundation, University
of California
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ADVANCE (of a beach). (1) A continuing seaward movement of the shoreline. (2) A net
seaward movement of the shoreline over a specified time. Also PROGRESSION.
AGE, WAVE. The ratio of wave velocity to wind velocity (in wave forecasting theory).
ALLUVIUM. Soil (sand, mud, or similar detrital material) deposited by streams, or the
deposits formed.
A-1
AMPLITUDE, WAVE. (1) The magnitude of the displacement of a wave from a mean value. An
ocean wave has an amplitude equal to the vertical distance from still-water level to wave
crest. For a sinusoidal wave, the amplitude is one-half the wave height. (2) The semirange
of a constituent tide.
ANTIDUNES. BED FORMS that occur in trains and are in phase with, and strongly interact with,
gravity water-surface waves.
ARMOR UNIT. A relatively large quarrystone or concrete shape that is selected to fit specified
geometric characteristics and density. It is usually of nearly uniform size and usually
large enough to require individual placement. In normal cases it is used as primary wave
protection and is placed in thicknesses of at least two units.
ARTIFICIAL NOURISHMENT. The process of replenishing a beach with material (usually sand)
obtained from another location.
ATOLL. A ring-shaped coral reef, often carrying low sand islands, enclosing a lagoon.
ATTENUATION. (1) A lessening of the amplitude of a wave with distance from the origin. (2)
The decrease of water-particle motion with increasing depth. Particle motion resulting from
surface oscillatory waves attenuates rapidly with depth, and practically disappears at a depth
equal to a surface wavelength.
AWASH. Situated so that the top is intermittently washed by waves or tidal action. Condition of
being exposed or just bare at any stage of the tide between high water and chart datum.
BACKRUSH. The seaward return of the water following the uprush of the waves. For any
given tide stage the point of farthest return seaward of the backrush is known as the LIMIT
of BACKRUSH or LIMIT BACKWASH. (See Figure A-2.)
BACKSHORE. That zone of the shore or beach lying between the foreshore and the coastline
comprising the BERM or BERMS and acted upon by waves only during severe storms,
especially when combined with exceptionally high water. Also BACKBEACH. (See Figure
A-1.)
BACKWASH. (1) See BACKRUSH. (2) Water or waves thrown back by an obstruction
such as a ship, breakwater, or cliff.
BANK. (1) The rising ground bordering a lake, river, or sea; or of a river or channel, for which it
is designated as right or left as the observer is facing downstream. (2) An elevation of the
sea floor or large area, located on a continental (or island) shelf and over which the depth is
relatively shallow but sufficient for safe surface navigation; a group of shoals. (3) In its
secondary sense, used only with a qualifying word such as "sandbank" or "gravelbank," a
shallow area consisting of shifting forms of silt, sand, mud, and gravel.
A-2
BAR. A submerged or emerged embankment of sand, gravel, or other unconsolidated material
built on the sea floor in shallow water by waves and currents. (See Figures A-2 and A-9.)
See BAYMOUTH BAR, CUSPATE BAR.
BARRIER BEACH. A bar essentially parallel to the shore, the crest of which is above normal
high water level. (See Figure A-9.) Also called OFFSHORE BARRIER and BARRIER
ISLAND.
BARRIER LAGOON. A bay roughly parallel to the coast and separated from the open ocean by
barrier islands. Also, the body of water encircled by coral islands and reefs, in which case it
may be called an atoll lagoon.
BARRIER REEF. A coral reef parallel to and separated from the coast by a lagoon that is too deep
for coral growth. Generally, barrier reefs follow the coasts for long distances and are cut
through at irregular intervals by channels or passes.
BASIN, BOAT. A naturally or artificially enclosed or nearly enclosed harbor area for small craft.
BATHYMETRY. The measurement of depths of water in oceans, seas, and lakes; also
information derived from such measurements.
BAY. A recess in the shore or an inlet of a sea between two capes or headlands, not so large as a
gulf but larger than a cove. (See Figure A-9.) See also BIGHT, EMBAYMENT.
BAYMOUTH BAR. A bar extending partly or entirely across the mouth of a bay (see Figure A-
9).
BAYOU. A minor sluggish waterway or estuarial creek, tributary to, or connecting, other
streams or bodies of water, whose course is usually through lowlands or swamps.
Sometimes called SLOUGH.
BEACH. The zone of unconsolidated material that extends landward from the low water line to the
place where there is marked change in material or physiographic form, or to the line of
permanent vegetation (usually the effective limit of storm waves). The seaward limit of a
beach--unless otherwise specified--is the mean low water line. A beach includes
FORESHORE and BACKSHORE. See also SHORE. (See Figure A-1.)
BEACH BERM. A nearly horizontal part of the beach or backshore formed by the deposit of
material by wave action. Some beaches have no berms, others have one or several. (See
Figure A-1.)
BEACH EROSION. The carrying away of beach materials by wave action, tidal currents, littoral
currents) or wind.
A-3
BEACH FACE. The section of the beach normally exposed to the action of the wave uprush.
The FORESHORE of a BEACH. (Not synonymous with SHOREFACE.) (See Figure A-
2.)
BEACH WIDTH. The horizontal dimension of the beach measured normal to the shoreline.
BED FORMS. Any deviation from a flat bed that is readily detectable by eye and higher than the
largest sediment size present in the parent bed material; generated on the bed of an alluvial
channel by the flow.
BENCH. (1) A level or gently sloping erosion plane inclined seaward. (2) A nearly horizontal
area at about the level of maximum high water on the sea side of a dike.
BENCH MARK. A permanently fixed point of known elevation. A primary bench mark is one
close to a tide station to which the tide staff and tidal datum originally are referenced.
BERM CREST. The seaward limit of a berm. Also called BERM EDGE. (See Figure A-1.)
BIGHT. A bend in a coastline forming an open bay. A bay formed by such a bend. (See Figure
A-8.)
BOLD COAST. A prominent landmass that rises steeply from the sea.
BORE. A very rapid rise of the tide in which the advancing water presents an abrupt front of
considerable height. In shallow estuaries where the range of tide is large, the high water is
propagated inward faster than the low water because of the greater depth at high water. If the
high water overtakes the low water, an abrupt front is presented, with the high-water crest
finally falling forward as the tide continues to advance. Also EAGER.
BOTTOM. The ground or bed under any body of water; the bottom of the sea. (See Figure A-1.)
A-4
BOTTOM (nature of). The composition or character of the bed of an ocean or other body of water
(e.g., clay, coral, gravel, mud, ooze, pebbles, rock, shell, shingle, hard, or soft).
BOULDER. A rounded rock more than 10 inches in diameter; larger than a cobblestone. See
SOIL CLASSIFICATION.
BREAKER. A wave breaking on a shore, over a reef, etc. Breakers may be classified into four
types (see Figure A-4):
SPILLING--bubbles and turbulent water spill down front face of wave. The upper 25
percent of the front face may become vertical before breaking. Breaking generally occurs
over quite a distance.
PLUNGING--crest curls over air pocket; breaking is usually with a crash. Smooth splash-up
usually follows.
COLLAPSING--breaking occurs over lower half of wave, with minimal air pocket and
usually no splash-up. Bubbles and foam present. (See Figure 2-77).
SURGING--wave peaks up, but bottom rushes forward from under wave, and wave slides
up beach face with little or no bubble production. Water surface remains almost plane except
where ripples may be produced on the beachface during runback.
BREAKER DEPTH. The still-water depth at the point where a wave breaks. Also called
BREAKING DEPTH. (See Figure A-2).
BREAKWATER. A structure protecting a shore area, harbor, anchorage, or basin from waves.
BUOY. A float; especially a floating object moored to the bottom to mark a channel, anchor,
shoal, rock, etc.
BUOYANCY. The resultant of upward forces, exerted by the water on a submerged or floating
body, equal to the weight of the water displaced by this body.
BYPASSING, SAND. Hydraulic or mechanical movement of sand from the accreting updrift
side to the eroding downdrift side of an inlet or harbor entrance. The hydraulic
movement may include natural movement as well as movement caused by man.
CANAL. An artificial watercourse cut through a land area for such uses as navigation and
irrigation.
CANYON. A relatively narrow, deep depression with steep slopes, the bottom of which grades
continuously downward. May be underwater (submarine) or on land (subaerial).
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CAPE. A relatively extensive land area jutting seaward from a continent or large island which
prominently marks a change in, or interrupts notably, the coastal trend; a prominent feature.
CAUSTIC. In refraction of waves, the name given to the curve to which adjacent orthogonals of
waves refracted by a bottom whose contour lines are curved, are tangents. The occurrence
of a caustic always marks a region of crossed orthogonals and high wave convergence.
CENTRAL PRESSURE INDEX (CPI). The estimated minimum barometric pressure in the eye
(approximate center) of a particular hurricane. The CPI is considered the most stable index
to intensity of hurricane wind velocities in the periphery of the storm; the highest wind
speeds are associated with storms having the lowest CPI.
CHANNEL. (1) A natural or artificial waterway of perceptible extent which either periodically or
continuously contains moving water, or which forms a connecting link between two bodies
of water. (2) The part of a body of water deep enough to be used for navigation through an
area otherwise too shallow for navigation. (3) A large strait, as the English Channel. (4)
The deepest part of a stream, bay, or strait through which the main volume or current of
water flows.
CHART DATUM. The plane or level to which soundings (or elevations) or tide heights are
referenced (usually LOW WATER DATUM). The surface is called a tidal datum when
referred to a certain phase of tide. To provide a safety factor for navigation, some level lower
than MEAN SEA LEVEL is generally selected for hydrographic charts, such as MEAN LOW
WATER or MEAN LOWER LOW WATER. See DATUM PLANE.
CHOP. The short-crested waves that may spring up quickly in a moderate breeze, and which
break easily at the crest. Also WIND CHOP.
CLAPOTIS. The French equivalent for a type of STANDING WAVE. In American usage it is
usually associated with the standing wave phenomenon caused by the reflection of a
nonbreaking wave train from a structure with a face that is vertical or nearly vertical. Full
clapotis is one with 100 percent reflection of the incident wave; partial clapotis is one with
less than 100 percent reflection.
A-6
CLAY. See SOIL CLASSIFICATION.
CLIFF. A high, steep face of rock; a precipice. See also SEA CLIFF.
CNOIDAL WAVE. A type of wave in shallow water (i.e., where the depth of water is less than
1/8 to 1/10 the wavelength). The surface profile is expressed in terms of the Jacobian
elliptic function cn u; hence the term cnoidal.
COAST. A strip of land of indefinite width (may be several kilometers) that extends from the
shoreline inland to the first major change in terrain features. (See Figure A-1.)
COASTAL AREA. The land and sea area bordering the shoreline. (See Figure A-1.)
COASTAL PLAIN. The plain composed of horizontal or gently sloping strata of clastic materials
fronting the coast, and generally representing a strip of sea bottom that has emerged from the
sea in recent geologic time.
COASTLINE. (1) Technically, the line that forms the boundary between the COAST and the
SHORE. (2) Commonly, the line that forms the boundary between the land and the water.
COMBER. (1) A deepwater wave whose crest is pushed forward by a strong wind; much larger
than a whitecap. (2) A long-period breaker.
CONTINENTAL SHELF. The zone bordering a continent and extending from the low water line
to the depth (usually about 180 meters) where there is a marked or rather steep descent
toward a greater depth.
CONTOUR. A line on a map or chart representing points of equal elevation with relation to a
DATUM. It is called an ISOBATH when connecting points of equal depth below a datum.
Also called DEPTH CONTOUR.
CONTROLLING DEPTH. The least depth in the navigable parts of a waterway, governing the
maximum draft of vessels that can enter.
A-7
CORAL. (1) (Biology) Marine coelenterates (Madreporaria), solitary or colonial, which form
a hard external covering of calcium compounds or other materials. The corals which form
large reefs are limited to warm, shallow waters, while those forming solitary, minute
growths may be found in colder waters to great depths. (2) (Geology) The concretion of
coral polyps, composed almost wholly of calcium carbonate, forming reefs and tree-like and
globular masses. May also include calcareous algae and other organisms producing
calcareous secretions, such as bryozoans and hydrozoans.
CORE. A vertical cylindrical sample of the bottom sediments from which the nature and
stratification of the bottom may be determined.
COVE. A small, sheltered recess in a coast, often inside a larger embayment. (See Figure
A-8.)
CREST LENGTH, WAVE. The length of a wave along its crest. Sometimes called CREST
WIDTH.
CREST OF BERM. The seaward limit of a berm. Also called BERM EDGE. (See Figure A-1.)
CREST OF WAVE. (1) the highest part of a wave. (2) That part of the wave above still-water
level. (See Figure A-3.)
CURRENT, COASTAL. One of the offshore currents flowing generally parallel to the shoreline
in the deeper water beyond and near the surf zone; these are not related genetically to waves
and resulting surf, but may be related to tides, winds, or distribution of mass.
CURRENT, EBB. The tidal current away from shore or down a tidal stream. Usually associated
with the decrease in the height of the tide.
CURRENT, FEEDER. Any of the parts of the NEARSHORE CURRENT SYSTEM that flow
parallel to shore before converging and forming the neck of the RIP CURRENT.
CURRENT, FLOOD. The tidal current toward shore or up a tidal stream. Usually associated with
the increase in the height of the tide.
CURRENT, LITTORAL. Any current in the littoral zone caused primarily by wave action; e.g.,
LONGSHORE CURRENT, RIP CURRENT. See also CURRENT, NEAR-SHORE.
A-8
CURRENT, LONGSHORE. The littoral current in the breaker zone moving essentially
parallel to the shore, usually generated by waves breaking at an angle to the shoreline.
CURRENT, STREAM. A narrow, deep, and swift ocean current, as the Gulf Stream.
CURRENT, DRIFT.
CURRENT, TIDAL. The alternating horizontal movement of water associated with the rise and
fall of the tide caused by the astronomical tide-producing forces. Also CURRENT,
PERIODIC. See also CURRENT, FLOOD and CURRENT, EBB.
CUSP. One of a series of low mounds of beach material separated by crescent-shaped troughs
spaced at more or less regular intervals along the beach face. Also BEACH CUSP. (See
Figure A-7.)
CUSPATE BAR. A crescent-shaped bar uniting with the shore at each end. It may be formed by
a single spit growing from shore and then turning back to again meet the shore, or by two
spits growing from the shore and uniting to form a bar of sharply cuspate form. (See Figure
A-9.)
CUSPATE SPIT. The spit that forms in the lee of a shoal or offshore feature (breakwater, island,
rock outcrop) by waves that are refracted and/or diffracted around the offshore feature. It
may be eventually grown into a TOMBOLO linking the feature to the mainland. See
TOMBOLO.
CYCLOIDAL WAVE. A steep, symmetrical wave whose crest forms an angle of 120 degrees and
whose form is that of a cycloid. A trochoidal wave of maximum steepness. See also
TROCHOIDAL WAVE.
A-9
DATUM, PLANE. The horizontal plane to which soundings, ground elevations, or water surface
elevations are referred. Also REFERENCE PLANE. The plane is called a TIDAL DATUM
when defined by a certain phase of the tide. The following datums are ordinarily used on
hydrographic charts:
MEAN LOW WATER--Atlantic coast (U. S.), Argentina, Sweden, and Norway.
MEAN LOWER LOW WATER--Pacific coast (U. S.).
MEAN LOW WATER SPRINGS--United Kingdom, Germany, Italy, Brazil, and Chile.
LOW WATER DATUM--Great Lakes (U. S. and Canada).
LOWEST LOW WATER SPRINGS--Portugal.
LOW WATER INDIAN SPRINGS--India and Japan (See INDIAN TIDE PLANE).
LOWEST LOW WATER--France, Spain, and Greece.
A common datum used on topographic maps is based on MEAN SEA LEVEL. See also
BENCH MARK.
DEBRIS LINE. A line near the limit of storm wave uprush marking the landward limit of debris
deposits.
DECAY DISTANCE. The distance waves travel after leaving the generating area (FETCH).
DECAY OF WAVES. The change waves undergo after they leave a generating area (FETCH) and
pass through a calm, or region of lighter winds. In the process of decay, the significant
wave height decreases and the significant wavelength increases.
DEEP WATER. Water so deep that surface waves are little affected by the ocean bottom.
Generally, water deeper than one-half the surface wavelength is considered deep water.
Compare SHALLOW WATER.
DEFLATION. The removal of loose material from a beach or other land surface by wind action.
DELTA. An alluvial deposit, roughly triangular or digitate in shape, formed at a river mouth.
DEPTH. The vertical distance from a specified tidal datum to the sea floor.
DEPTH OF BREAKING. The still-water depth at the point where the wave breaks. Also
BREAKER DEPTH. (See Figure A-2.)
A-10
DIFFRACTION (of water waves). The phenomenon by which energy is transmitted laterally
along a wave crest. When a part of a train of waves is interrupted by a barrier, such as a
breakwater, the effect of diffraction is manifested by propagation of waves into the sheltered
region within the barrier's geometric shadow.
DIKE (DYKE). A wall or mound built around a low-lying area to prevent flooding.
DIURNAL TIDE. A tide with one high water and one low water in a tidal day. (See Figure A-10.)
DOWNCOAST. In United States usage, the coastal direction generally trending toward the south.
DRIFT (noun). (1) Sometimes used as a short form for LITTORAL DRIFT. (2) The speed at
which a current runs. (3) Floating material deposited on a beach (driftwood). (4) A deposit
of a continental ice sheet; e.g., a drumlin.
DUNES. (1) Ridges or mounds of loose, wind-blown material, usually sand. (See Figure A-7.)
(2) BED FORMS smaller than bars but larger than ripples that are out of phase with any
water-surface gravity waves associated with them.
DURATION. In wave forecasting, the length of time the wind blows in nearly the same direction
over the FETCH (generating area).
DURATION, MINIMUM. The time necessary for steady-state wave conditions to develop for a
given wind velocity over a given fetch length.
EBB CURRENT. The tidal current away from shore or down a tidal stream; usually associated
with the decrease in height of the tide.
EBB TIDE. The period of tide between high water and the succeeding low water; a falling tide.
(See Figure A-10.)
A-11
ECHO SOUNDER. An electronic instrument used to determine the depth of water by measuring
the time interval between the emission of a sonic or ultrasonic signal and the return of
its echo from the bottom.
EDDY. A circular movement of water formed on the side of a main current. Eddies may be
created at points where the main stream passes projecting obstructions or where two adjacent
currents flow counter to each other. Also EDDY CURRENT.
EDGE WAVE. An ocean wave parallel to a coast, with crests normal to the shoreline. An edge
wave may be STANDING or PROGRESSIVE. Its height diminishes rapidly seaward and
is negligible at a distance of one wavelength offshore.
EMBANKMENT. An artificial bank such as a mound or dike, generally built to hold back water
or to carry a roadway.
ENERGY COEFFICIENT. The ratio of the energy in a wave per unit crest length transmitted
forward with the wave at a point in shallow water to the energy in a wave per unit crest
length transmitted forward with the wave in deep water. On refraction diagrams this is equal
to the ratio of the distance between a pair of orthogonals at a selected shallow-water point to
the distance between the same pair of orthogonals in deep water. Also the square of the
REFRACTION COEFFICIENT.
EOLIAN SANDS. Sediments of sand size or smaller which have been transported by winds.
They may be recognized in marine deposits off desert coasts by the greater angularity of the
grains compared with waterborne particles.
EROSION. The wearing away of land by the action of natural forces. On a beach, the carrying
away of beach material by wave action, tidal currents, littoral currents, or by deflation.
ESCARPMENT. A more or less continuous line of cliffs or steep slopes facing in one general
direction which are caused by erosion or faulting. Also SCARP. (See Figure A-1.)
ESTUARY. (1) The part of a river that is affected by tides. (2) The region near a river mouth in
which the fresh water of the river mixes with the salt water of the sea.
EYE. In meteorology, usually the "eye of the storm" (hurricane); the roughly circular area of
comparatively light winds and fair weather found at the center of a severe tropical cyclone.
A-12
FAIRWAY. The parts of a waterway that are open and unobstructed for navigation. The main
traveled part of a waterway; a marine thoroughfare.
FATHOM. A unit of measurement used for soundings equal to 1.83 meters (6 feet).
FEEDER BEACH. An artificially widened beach serving to nourish downdrift beaches by natural
littoral currents or forces.
FEELING BOTTOM. The initial action of a deepwater wave, in response to the bottom, upon
running into shoal water.
FETCH. The area in which SEAS are generated by a wind having a fairly constant direction and
speed. Sometimes used synonymously with FETCH LENGTH. Also GENERATING
AREA.
FETCH LENGTH. The horizontal distance (in the direction of the wind) over which a wind
generates SEAS or creates a WIND SETUP.
FIRTH. A narrow arm of the sea; also, the opening of a river into the sea.
FIORD (FJORD). A narrow, deep, steep-walled inlet of the sea, usually formed by entrance of the
sea into a deep glacial trough.
FLOOD CURRENT. The tidal current toward shore or up a tidal stream, usually associated with
the increase in the height of the tide.
FLOOD TIDE. The period of tide between low water and the succeeding high water; a rising tide.
(See Figure A-10.)
FOAM LINE. The front of a wave as it advances shoreward, after it has broken. (See Figure A-
4.)
FOLLOWING WIND. Generally, the same as a tailwind; in wave forecasting, wind blowing in
the direction of ocean-wave advance.
FORERUNNER. Low, long-period ocean SWELL which commonly precedes the main swell
from a distant storm, especially a tropical cyclone.
FORESHORE. The part of the shore, lying between the crest of the seaward berm (or upper limit
of wave wash at high tide) and the ordinary low-water mark, that is ordinarily traversed by
the uprush and backrush of the waves as the tides rise and fall. See BEACH FACE. (See
Figure A-1.)
FORWARD SPEED (hurricane). Rate of movement (propagation) of the hurricane eye in meters
per second, knots, or miles per hour.
A-13
FREEBOARD. The additional height of a structure above design high water level to prevent
overflow. Also, at a given time, the vertical distance between the water level and the top of
the structure. On a ship, the distance from the waterline to main deck or gunwale.
FRONT OF THE FETCH. In wave forecasting, the end of the generating area toward which the
wind is blowing.
FROUDE NUMBER. The dimensionless ratio of the inertial force to the force of gravity for a
given fluid flow. It may be given as Fr = V /Lg where V is a characteristic velocity, L is a
characteristic length) and g the acceleration of gravity--or as the square root of this number.
GENERATING AREA. In wave forecasting, the continuous area of water surface over which the
wind blows in nearly a constant direction. Sometimes used synonymously with FETCH
LENGTH. Also FETCH.
GENERATION OF WAVES. (1) The creation of waves by natural or mechanical means. (2) The
creation and growth of waves caused by a wind blowing over a water surface for a certain
period of time. The area involved is called the GENERATING AREA or FETCH.
GEOMETRIC MEAN DIAMETER. The diameter equivalent of the arithmetic mean of the
logarithmic frequency distribution. In the analysis of beach sands, it is taken as that grain
diameter determined graphically by the intersection of a straight line through selected
boundary sizes, (generally points on the distribution curve where 16 and 84 percent of the
sample is coarser by weight) and a vertical line through the median diameter of the sample.
GEOMETRIC SHADOW. In wave diffraction theory, the area outlined by drawing straight lines
paralleling the direction of wave approach through the extremities of a protective structure.
It differs from the actual protected area to the extent that the diffraction and refraction effects
modify the wave pattern.
GEOMORPHOLOGY. That branch of both physiography and geology which deals with the form
of the Earth, the general configuration of its surface, and the changes that take place in the
evolution of landform.
GRADIENT (GRADE). See SLOPE. With reference to winds or currents, the rate of increase or
decrease in speed, usually in the vertical; or the curve that represents this rate.
A-14
GROIN (British, GROYNE). A shore protection structure built (usually perpendicular to the
shoreline) to trap littoral drift or retard erosion of the shore.
GROIN SYSTEM. A series of groins acting together to protect a section of beach. Commonly
called a groin field.
GROUND SWELL. A long high ocean swell; also, this swell as it rises to prominent height in
shallow water.
GROUND WATER. Subsurface water occupying the zone of saturation. In a strict sense, the
term is applied only to water below the WATER TABLE.
GROUP VELOCITY. The velocity of a wave group. In deep water, it is equal to one-half the
velocity of the individual waves within the group.
GULF. A large embayment in a coast; the entrance is generally wider than the length.
GUT. (1) A narrow passage such as a strait or inlet. (2) A channel in otherwise shallower water,
generally formed by water in motion.
HARBOR (British, HARBOUR). Any protected water area affording a place of safety for vessels.
See also PORT.
HEAD OF RIP. The part of a rip current that has widened out seaward of the breakers. See also
CURRENT, RIP; CURRENT, FEEDER; and NECK (RIP).
HIGH TIDE, HIGH WATER (HW). The maximum elevation reached by each rising tide. See
TIDE. (See Figure A-10.)
HIGH WATER LINE. In strictness, the intersection of the plane of mean high water with the
shore. The shoreline delineated on the nautical charts of the National Ocean Service is an
approximation of the high water line. For specific occurrences, the highest elevation on the
shore reached during a storm or rising tide, including meteorological effects.
HIGH WATER OF ORDINARY SPRING TIDES (HWOST). A tidal datum appearing in some
British publications, based on high water of ordinary spring tides.
A-15
HIGHER HIGH WATER (HHW). The higher of the two high waters of any tidal day. The
single high water occurring daily during periods when the tide is diurnal is considered to be a
higher high water. (See Figure A-10.)
HIGHER LOW WATER (HLW). The higher of two low waters of any tidal day. (See Figure A-
10.)
HINDCASTING, WAVE. The use of historic synoptic wind charts to calculate characteristics of
waves that probably occurred at some past time.
HOOK. A spit or narrow cape of sand or gravel which turns landward at the outer end.
HURRICANE. An intense tropical cyclone in which winds tend to spiral inward toward a core of
low pressure, with maximum surface wind velocities that equal or exceed 33.5 meters per
second (75 mph or 65 knots) for several minutes or longer at some points. TROPICAL
STORM is the term applied if maximum winds are less than 33.5 meters per second.
HURRICANE PATH or TRACK. Line of movement (propagation) of the eye through an area.
HURRICANE STAGE HYDROGRAPH. A continuous graph representing water level stages that
would be recorded in a gage well located at a specified point of interest during the passage of
a particular hurricane) assuming that effects of relatively short-period waves are eliminated
from the record by damping features of the gage well. Unless specifically excluded and
separately accounted for, hurricane surge hydrographs are assumed to include effects of
astronomical tides, barometric pressure differences, and all other factors that influence water
level stages within a properly designed gage well located at a specified point.
HYDRAULICALLY EQUIVALENT GRAINS. Sedimentary particles that settle at the same rate
under the same conditions.
A-16
HYPOTHETICAL HURRICANE ("HYPOHURRICANE"). A representation of a hurricane, with
specified characteristics, that is assumed to occur in a particular study area, following a
specified path and timing sequence.
PROBABLE MAXIMUM HURRICANE--A hypohurricane that might result from the most
severe combination of hurricane parameters that is considered reasonably possible in
the region involved, if the hurricane should approach the point under study along a critical
path and at optimum rate of movement. This estimate is substantially more severe than the
SPH criteria.
INDIAN SPRING LOW WATER. The approximate level of the mean of lower low waters at
spring tides, used principally in the Indian Ocean and along the east coast of Asia. Also
INDIAN TIDE PLANE.
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INLET. (1) A short, narrow waterway connecting a bay, lagoon, or similar body of water with a
large parent body of water. (2) An arm of the sea (or other body of water) that is long
compared to its width and may extend a considerable distance inland. See also TIDAL
INLET.
INSHORE (ZONE). In beach terminology, the zone of variable width extending from the low
water line through the breaker zone. Also SHOREFACE. (See Figure A-1.)
INSULAR SHELF. The zone surrounding an island extending from the low water line to the
depth (usually about 183 meters (100 fathoms)) where there is a marked or rather steep
descent toward the great depths.
INTERNAL WAVES. Waves that occur within a fluid whose density changes with depth, either
abruptly at a sharp surface of discontinuity (an interface), or gradually. Their amplitude is
greatest at the density discontinuity or, in the case of a gradual density change, somewhere in
the interior of the fluid and not at the free upper surface where the surface waves have their
maximum amplitude.
IRROTATIONAL WAVE. A wave with fluid particles that do not revolve around an axis through
their centers, although the particles themselves may travel in circular or nearly circular
orbits. Irrotational waves may be PROGRESSIVE, STANDING, OSCILLATORY, or
TRANSLATORY. For example, the Airy, Stokes, cnoidal, and solitary wave theories
describe irrotational waves. Compare TROCHOIDAL WAVE.
ISTHMUS. A narrow strip of land, bordered on both sides by water, that connects two larger
bodies of land.
JET. To place (a pile, slab, or pipe) in the ground by means of a jet of water acting at the lower
end.
JETTY. (1) (United States usage) On open seacoasts, a structure extending into a body of water,
which is designed to prevent shoaling of a channel by littoral materials and to direct and
confine the stream or tidal flow. Jetties are built at the mouths of rivers or tidal inlets to help
deepen and stabilize a channel. (2) (British usage) WHARF or PIER. See TRAINING
WALL.
KEY. A low, insular bank of sand, coral, etc., as one of the islets off the southern coast of
Florida. Also CAY.
KINETIC ENERGY (OF WAVES). In a progressive oscillatory wave, a summation of the energy
of motion of the particles within the wave.
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KNOLL. A submerged elevation of rounded shape rising less than 1000 meters from the ocean
floor and of limited extent across the summit. Compare SEAMOUNT.
KNOT. The unit of speed used in navigation equal to 1 nautical mile (6,076.115 feet or 1,852
meters) per hour.
LAGOON. A shallow body of water, like a pond or lake, usually connected to the sea. (See
Figures A-8 and A-9.)
LAND BREEZE. A light wind blowing from the land to the sea, caused by unequal cooling of
land and water masses.
LAND-SEA BREEZE. The combination of a land breeze and a sea breeze as a diurnal
phenomenon.
LANDLOCKED. Enclosed, or nearly enclosed, by land--thus protected from the sea, as a bay or a
harbor.
LANDMARK. A conspicuous object, natural or artificial, located near or on land, which aids in
fixing the position of an observer.
LEAD LINE. A line, wire, or cord used in sounding. It is weighted at one end with a plummet
(sounding lead). Also SOUNDING LINE.
LEE. (1) Shelter, or the part or side sheltered or turned away from the wind or waves. (2)
(Chiefly nautical) The quarter or region toward which the wind blows.
LEEWARD. The direction toward which the wind is blowing; the direction toward which waves
are traveling.
LENGTH OF WAVE. The horizontal distance between similar points on two successive waves
measured perpendicularly to the crest. (See Figure A-3.)
LITTORAL DRIFT. The sedimentary material moved in the littoral zone under the influence of
waves and currents.
LITTORAL TRANSPORT. The movement of littoral drift in the littoral zone by waves and
currents. Includes movement parallel (longshore transport) and perpendicular (on-offshore
transport) to the shore.
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LITTORAL TRANSPORT RATE. Rate of transport of sedimentary material parallel or
perpendicular to the shore in the littoral zone. Usually expressed in cubic meters (cubic
yards) per year. Commonly synonymous with LONGSHORE TRANSPORT RATE.
LITTORAL ZONE. In beach terminology, an indefinite zone extending seaward from the
shoreline to just beyond the breaker zone.
LOAD. The quantity of sediment transported by a current. It includes the suspended load of small
particles and the bedload of large particles that move along the bottom.
LOOP. That part of a STANDING WAVE where the vertical motion is greatest and the horizontal
velocities are least. Loops (sometimes called ANTINODES) are associated with CLAPOTIS
and with SEICHE action resulting from wave reflections. Compare NODE.
LOW TIDE (LOW WATER, LW). The minimum elevation reached by each falling tide. See
TIDE. (See Figure A-10.)
LOW WATER DATUM. An approximation to the plane of mean low water that has been adopted
as a standard reference plane. See also DATUM, PLANE and CHART DATUM.
LOW WATER LINE. The intersection of any standard low tide datum plane with the shore.
LOW WATER OF ORDINARY SPRING TIDES (LWOST). A tidal datum appearing in some
British publications, based on low water of ordinary spring tides.
LOWER HIGH WATER (LHW). The lower of the two high waters of any tidal day. (See Figure
A-10.)
LOWER LOW WATER (LLW). The lower of the two low waters of any tidal day. The single
low water occurring daily during periods when the tide is diurnal is considered to be a lower
low water. (See Figure A-10.)
MANGROVE. A tropical tree with interlacing prop roots, confined to low-lying brackish areas.
MARSH. An area of soft, wet, or periodically inundated land, generally treeless and usually
characterized by grasses and other low growth.
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MARSH, SALT. A marsh periodically flooded by salt water.
MASS TRANSPORT. The net transfer of water by wave action in the direction of wave travel.
See also ORBIT.
MEAN HIGH WATER (MHW). The average height of the high waters over a 19-year period.
For shorter periods of observations, corrections are applied to eliminate known variations
and reduce the results to the equivalent of a mean 19-year value. All high water heights are
included in the average where the type of tide is either semidiurnal or mixed. Only the higher
high water heights are included in the average where the type of tide is diurnal. So
determined, mean high water in the latter case is the same as mean higher high water.
MEAN HIGH WATER SPRINGS. The average height of the high waters occurring at the time of
spring tide. Frequently abbreviated to HIGH WATER SPRINGS.
MEAN HIGHER HIGH WATER (MHHW). The average height of the higher high waters over a
19-year period. For shorter periods of observation, corrections are applied to eliminate
known variations and reduce the result to the equivalent of a mean 19-year value.
MEAN LOW WATER (MLW). The average height of the low waters over a 19-year period. For
shorter periods of observations, corrections are applied to eliminate known variations and
reduce the results to the equivalent of a mean 19-year value. All low water heights are
included in the average where the type of tide is either semidiurnal or mixed. Only lower low
water heights are included in the average where the type of tide is diurnal. So determined,
mean low water in the latter case is the same as mean lower low water.
MEAN LOW WATER SPRINGS. The average height of low waters occurring at the time of the
spring tides. It is usually derived by taking a plane depressed below the half-tide level by an
amount equal to one-half the spring range of tide, necessary corrections being applied to
reduce the result to a mean value. This plane is used to a considerable extent for
hydrographic work outside of the United States and is the plane of reference for the Pacific
approaches to the Panama Canal. Frequently abbreviated to LOW WATER SPRINGS.
MEAN LOWER LOW WATER (MLLW). The average height of the lower low waters over a 19-
year period. For shorter periods of observations, corrections are applied to eliminate known
variations and reduce the results to the equivalent of a mean 19-year value. Frequently
abbreviated to LOWER LOW WATER.
MEAN SEA LEVEL. The average height of the surface of the sea for all stages of the tide over a
19-year period, usually determined from hourly height readings. Not necessarily equal to
MEAN TIDE LEVEL.
MEAN TIDE LEVEL. A plane midway between MEAN HIGH WATER and MEAN LOW
WATER. Not necessarily equal to MEAN SEA LEVEL. Also HALF-TIDE LEVEL.
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MEDIAN DIAMETER. The diameter which marks the division of a given sand sample into two
equal parts by weight, one part containing all grains larger than that diameter and the other
part containing all grains smaller.
MIDDLE-GROUND SHOAL. A shoal formed by ebb and flood tides in the middle of the channel
of the lagoon or estuary end of an inlet.
MINIMUM FETCH. The least distance in which steady-state wave conditions will develop for a
wind of given speed blowing a given duration of time.
MIXED TIDE. A type of tide in which the presence of a diurnal wave is conspicuous by a large
inequality in either the high or low water heights, with two high waters and two low waters
usually occurring each tidal day. In strictness, all tides are mixed, but the name is usually
applied without definite limits to the tide intermediate to those predominantly semidiurnal and
those predominantly diurnal. (See Figure A-10.)
MONOCHROMATIC WAVES. A series of waves generated in a laboratory; each wave has the
same length and period.
MONOLITHIC. Like a single stone or block. In coastal structures, the type of construction in
which the structure's component parts are bound together to act as one.
MUD. A fluid-to-plastic mixture of finely divided particles of solid material and water.
NAUTICAL MILE. The length of a minute of arc, 1/21,600 of an average great circle of the
Earth. Generally one minute of latitude is considered equal to one nautical mile. The
accepted United States value as of 1 July 1959 is 1,852 meters (6,076.115 feet),
approximately 1.15 times as long as the U.S. statute mile of 5,280 feet. Also geographical
mile.
NEAP TIDE. A tide occurring near the time of quadrature of the moon with the sun. The neap
tidal range is usually 10 to 30 percent less than the mean tidal range.
NEARSHORE (zone). In beach terminology an indefinite zone extending seaward from the
shoreline well beyond the breaker zone. It defines the area of NEARSHORE CURRENTS.
(See Figure A-1.)
A-22
NEARSHORE CURRENT SYSTEM. The current system caused primarily by wave action in and
near the breaker zone, and which consists of four parts: the shoreward mass transport of
water; longshore currents; seaward return flow, including rip currents; and the longshore
movement of the expanding heads of rip currents. (See Figure A-7.) See also
NEARSHORE CIRCULATION.
NECK. (1) The narrow band of water flowing seaward through the surf. Also RIP. (2) The
narrow strip of land connecting a peninsula with the mainland.
NODAL ZONE. An area in which the predominant direction of the LONGSHORE TRANSPORT
changes.
NODE. That part of a STANDING WAVE where the vertical motion is least and the horizontal
velocities are greatest. Nodes are associated with CLAPOTIS and with SEICHE action
resulting from wave reflections. Compare LOOP.
OCEANOGRAPHY. The study of the sea, embracing and indicating all knowledge pertaining to
the sea's physical boundaries, the chemistry and physics of seawater, and marine biology.
OFFSHORE. (1) In beach terminology, the comparatively flat zone of variable width, extending
from the breaker zone to the seaward edge of the Continental Shelf. (2) A direction seaward
from the shore. (See Figure A-1.)
OFFSHORE CURRENT. (1) Any current in the offshore zone. (2) Any current flowing away
from shore.
OFFSHORE WIND. A wind blowing seaward from the land in the coastal area.
ONSHORE WIND. A wind blowing landward from the sea in the coastal area.
OPPOSING WIND. In wave forecasting, a wind blowing in a direction opposite to the ocean-
wave advance; generally, a headwind.
ORBIT. In water waves, the path of a water particle affected by the wave motion. In deepwater
waves the orbit is nearly circular, and in shallow-water waves the orbit is nearly elliptical. In
general, the orbits are slightly open in the direction of wave motion, giving rise to MASS
TRANSPORT. (See Figure A-3.)
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ORBITAL CURRENT. The flow of water accompanying the orbital movement of the water
particles in a wave. Not to be confused with wave-generated LITTORAL CURRENTS.
(See Figure A-3.)
OSCILLATION. (1) A periodic motion backward and forward. (2) Vibration or variance above
and below a mean value.
OSCILLATORY WAVE. A wave in which each individual particle oscillates about a point with
little or no permanent change in mean position. The term is commonly applied to progressive
oscillatory waves in which only the form advances, the individual particles moving in
closed or nearly closed orbits. Compare WAVE OF TRANSLATION. See also ORBIT.
OUTFALL. A structure extending into a body of water for the purpose of discharging sewage,
storm runoff, or cooling water.
OVERTOPPING. Passing of water over the top of a structure as a result of wave runup or surge
action.
OVERWASH. That portion of the uprush that carries over the crest of a berm or of a structure.
PARAPET. A low wall built along the edge of a structure such as a seawall or quay.
PARTICLE VELOCITY. The velocity induced by wave motion with which a specific water
particle moves within a wave.
PASS. In hydrographic usage, a navigable channel through a bar, reef, or shoal, or between
closely adjacent islands.
PENINSULA. An elongated body of land nearly surrounded by water and connected to a larger
body of land.
PERCHED BEACH. A beach or fillet of sand retained above the otherwise normal profile level by
a submerged dike.
PERCOLATION. The process by which water flows through the interstices of a sediment.
Specifically, in wave phenomena, the process by which wave action forces water through
the interstices of the bottom sediment and which tends to reduce wave heights.
PERIODIC CURRENT. A current caused by the tide-producing forces of the moon and the sun; a
part of the same general movement of the sea that is manifested in the vertical rise and fall of
the tides. See also CURRENT, FLOOD and CURRENT, EBB.
A-24
PERMANENT CURRENT. A current that runs continuously, independent of the tides and
temporary causes. Permanent currents include the freshwater discharge of a river and the
currents that form the general circulatory systems of the oceans.
PERMEABLE GROIN. A groin with openings large enough to permit passage of appreciable
quantities of LITTORAL DRIFT.
PHASE. In surface wave motion, a point in the period to which the wave motion has advanced
with respect to a given initial reference point.
PHASE INEQUALITY. Variations in the tides or tidal currents associated with changes in the
phase of the Moon in relation to the Sun.
PHI GRADE SCALE. A logarithmic transformation of the Wentworth grade scale for size
classifications of sediment grains based on the negative logarithm to the base 2 of the
particle diameter: φ = -log2d . See SOIL CLASSIFICATION.
PIER. A structure, usually of open construction, extending out into the water from the shore, to
serve as a landing place, recreational facility, etc., rather than to afford coastal protection. In
the Great Lakes, a term sometimes improperly applied to jetties.
PILE. A long, heavy timber or section of concrete or metal to be driven or jetted into the earth or
seabed to serve as a support or protection.
PILE, SHEET. A pile with a generally slender flat cross section to be driven into the ground or
seabed and meshed or interlocked with like members to form a diaphragm, wall, or
bulkhead.
PLANFORM. The outline or shape of a body of water as determined by the still-water line.
PLATEAU. A land area (usually extensive) having a relatively level surface raised sharply above
adjacent land on at least one side; table land. A similar undersea feature.
PLUNGE POINT. (1) For a plunging wave, the point at which the wave curls over and falls. (2)
The final breaking point of the waves just before they rush up on the beach. (See Figure A-
1.)
A-25
POCKET BEACH. A beach, usually small, in a coastal reentrant or between two littoral barriers.
POINT. The extreme end of a cape; the outer end of any land area protruding into the water,
usually less prominent than a cape.
PORT. A place where vessels may discharge or receive cargo; it may be the entire harbor
including its approaches and anchorages, or only the commercial part of a harbor where
the quays, wharves, facilities for transfer of cargo, docks, and repair shops are situated.
PROBABLE MAXIMUM WATER LEVEL. A hypothetical water level (exclusive of wave runup
from normal wind-generated waves) that might result from the most severe combination of
hydrometeorological, geoseismic, and other geophysical factors and that is considered
reasonably possible in the region involved, with each of these factors considered as affecting
the locality in a maximum manner.
This level represents the physical response of a body of water to maximum applied
phenomena such as hurricanes, moving squall lines, other cyclonic meteorological events,
tsunamis, and astronomical tide combined with maximum probable ambient hydrological
conditions such as wave setup, rainfall, runoff, and river flow. It is a water level with
virtually no risk of being exceeded.
PROFILE, BEACH. The intersection of the ground surface with a vertical plane; may extend from
the top of the dune line to the seaward limit of sand movement. (See Figure A-1.)
PROGRESSIVE WAVE. A wave that moves relative to a fixed coordinate system in a fluid. The
direction in which it moves is termed the direction of wave propagation.
QUAY (Pronounced KEY). A stretch of paved bank, or a solid artificial landing place parallel to
the navigable waterway, for use in loading and unloading vessels.
A-26
QUICKSAND. Loose, yielding, wet sand which offers no support to heavy objects. The
upward flow of the water has a velocity that eliminates contact pressures between the sand
grains and causes the sand-water mass to behave like a fluid.
RADIUS OF MAXIMUM WINDS. Distance from the eye of a hurricane, where surface and wind
velocities are zero, to the place where surface windspeeds are maximum.
RECESSION (of a beach). (1) A continuing landward movement of the shoreline. (2) A net
landward movement of the shoreline over a specified time. Also RETROGRESSION.
REEF. An offshore consolidated rock hazard to navigation, with a least depth of about 20 meters
(10 fathoms) or less.
REFERENCE STATION. A place for which tidal constants have previously been determined and
which is used as a standard for the comparison of simultaneous observations at a second
station. Also, a station for which independent daily predictions are given in the tide or
current tables from which corresponding predictions are obtained for other stations by means
of differences or factors.
REFLECTED WAVE. That part of an incident wave that is returned seaward when a wave
impinges on a steep beach, barrier, or other reflecting surface.
REFRACTION (of water waves). (1) The process by which the direction of a wave moving in
shallow water at an angle to the contours is changed: the part of the wave advancing in
shallower water moves more slowly than that part still advancing in deeper water, causing the
wave crest to bend toward alinement with the underwater contours. (2) The bending of wave
crests by currents. (See Figure A-5.)
REFRACTION COEFFICIENT. The square root of the ratio of the distance between adjacent
orthogonals in deep water to their distance apart in shallow water at a selected point. When
multiplied by the SHOALING FACTOR and a factor for friction and percolation, this
becomes the WAVE HEIGHT COEFFICIENT or the ratio of the refracted wave height at
any point to the deepwater wave height. Also, the square root of the ENERGY
COEFFICIENT.
A-27
REFRACTION DIAGRAM. A drawing showing positions of wave crests and/or orthogonals
in a given area for a specific deepwater wave period and direction. (See Figure A-6.)
RETARDATION. The amount of time by which corresponding tidal phases grow later day by day
(about 50 minutes).
RETROGRESSION (of a beach). (1) A continuing landward movement of the shoreline. (2) A
net landward movement of the shoreline over a specified time. Also RECESSION.
REVETMENT. A facing of stone, concrete, etc., built to protect a scarp, embankment, or shore
structure against erosion by wave action or currents.
REYNOLDS NUMBER. The dimensionless ratio of the inertial force to the viscous force in fluid
motion,
RIDGE, BEACH. A nearly continuous mound of beach material that has been shaped by wave or
other action. Ridges may occur singly or as a series of approximately parallel deposits.
British usage, FULL. (See Figure A-7.)
RILL MARKS. Tiny drainage channels in a beach caused by the flow seaward of water left in the
sands of the upper part of the beach after the retreat of the tide or after the dying down of
storm waves.
RIP. A body of water made rough by waves meeting an opposing current, particularly a tidal
current; often found where tidal currents are converging and sinking.
RIP CURRENT. A strong surface current flowing seaward from the shore. It usually appears as
a visible band of agitated water and is the return movement of water piled up on the shore by
incoming waves and wind. With the seaward movement concentrated in a limited band its
velocity is somewhat accentuated. A rip consists of three parts: the FEEDER CURRENTS
flowing parallel to the shore inside the breakers; the NECK, where the feeder currents
converge and flow through the breakers in a narrow band or "rip"; and the HEAD, where the
current widens and slackens outside the breaker line. A rip current is often miscalled a rip
tide. Also RIP SURF. See NEARSHORE CURRENT SYSTEM. (See Figure A-7.)
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RIP SURF. See RIP CURRENT.
RIPPLE. (1) The ruffling of the surface of water; hence, a little curling wave or undulation. (2)
A wave less than 0.05 meter (2 inches) long controlled to a significant degree by both surface
tension and gravity. See CAPILLARY WAVE and GRAVITY WAVE.
RIPPLES (bed forms). Small bed forms with wavelengths less than 0.3 meter (1 foot) and heights
less than 0.03 meter (0.1 foot).
RIPRAP. A protective layer or facing of quarrystone, usually well graded within wide size limit,
randomly placed to prevent erosion, scour, or sloughing of an embankment of bluff; also
the stone so used. The quarrystone is placed in a layer at least twice the thickness of the 50
percent size, or 1.25 times the thickness of the largest size stone in the gradation.
RUBBLE. (1) Loose angular waterworn stones along a beach. (2) Rough, irregular fragments
of broken rock.
RUNNEL. A corrugation or trough formed in the foreshore or in the bottom just offshore by
waves or tidal currents.
RUNUP. The rush of water up a structure or beach on the breaking of a wave. Also UPRUSH,
SWASH. The amount of runup is the vertical height above still-water level to which the rush
of water reaches.
SALTATION. That method of sand movement in a fluid in which individual particles leave the
bed by bounding nearly vertically and, because the motion of the fluid is not strong or
turbulent enough to retain them in suspension, return to the bed at some distance
downstream. The travel path of the particles is a series of hops and bounds.
SANDBAR. (1) See BAR. (2) In a river, a ridge of sand built up to or near the surface by river
currents.
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SAND BYPASSING. See BYPASSING, SAND.
SAND WAVE. A large wavelike sediment feature composed of sand in very shallow water.
Wavelength may reach 100 meters; amplitude is about 0.5 meter. Also MEGARIPPLE.
SCARP, BEACH. An almost vertical slope along the beach caused by erosion by wave action. It
may vary in height from a few centimeters to a meter or so, depending on wave action and
the nature and composition of the beach. (See Figure A-1.)
SCOUR. Removal of underwater material by waves and currents, especially at the base or toe of a
shore structure.
SEA BREEZE. A light wind blowing from the sea toward the land caused by unequal heating of
land and water masses.
SEA CHANGE. (1) A change wrought by the sea. (2) A marked transformation.
SEAMOUNT. An elevation rising more than 1000 meters above the ocean floor, and of limited
extent across the summit. Compare KNOLL.
SEA PUSS. A dangerous longshore current; a rip current caused by return flow; loosely, the
submerged channel or inlet through a bar caused by those currents.
SEAS. Waves caused by wind at the place and time of observation. SEASHORE. The SHORE of
a sea or ocean.
SEA STATE. Description of the sea surface with regard to wave action. Also called state of sea.
SEAWALL. A structure separating land and water areas, primarily designed to prevent erosion
and other damage due to wave action. See also BULKHEAD.
SEICHE. (1) A standing wave oscillation of an enclosed waterbody that continues, pendulum
fashion, after the cessation of the originating force, which may have been either seismic or
atmospheric. (2) An oscillation of a fluid body in response to a disturbing force having the
same frequency as the natural frequency of the fluid system. Tides are now considered to be
seiches induced primarily by the periodic forces caused by the Sun and Moon. (3) In the
Great Lakes area, any sudden rise in the water of a harbor or a lake whether or not it is
oscillatory (although inaccurate in a strict sense, this usage is well established in the Great
Lakes area).
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SEISMIC SEA WAVE. See TSUNAMI.
SEMIDIURNAL TIDE. A tide with two high and two low waters in a tidal day with
comparatively little diurnal inequality. (See Figure A-10.)
SETUP, WAVE. Superelevation of the water surface over normal surge elevation due to onshore
mass transport of the water by wave action alone.
SHALLOW WATER. (1) Commonly, water of such a depth that surface waves are noticeably
affected by bottom topography. It is customary to consider water of depths less than one-
half the surface wavelength as shallow water. See TRANSITIONAL ZONE and DEEP
WATER. (2) More strictly, in hydrodynamics with regard to progressive gravity waves,
water in which the depth is less than 1/25 the wavelength; also called VERY SHALLOW
WATER.
SHINGLE. (1) Loosely and commonly, any beach material coarser than ordinary gravel,
especially any having flat or flattish pebbles. (2) Strictly and accurately, beach material of
smooth, well-rounded pebbles that are roughly the same size. The spaces between
pebbles are not filled with finer materials. Shingle often gives out a musical sound when
stepped on.
SHOAL (noun). A detached elevation of the sea bottom, comprised of any material except rock
or coral, which may endanger surface navigation.
SHOAL (verb). (1) To become shallow gradually. (2) To cause to become shallow. (3) To
proceed from a greater to a lesser depth of water.
SHOALING COEFFICIENT. The ratio of the height of a wave in water of any depth to its height
in deep water with the effects of refraction, friction, and percolation eliminated. Sometimes
SHOALING FACTOR or DEPTH FACTOR. See also ENERGY COEFFICIENT and
REFRACTION COEFFICIENT.
SHORE. The narrow strip of land in immediate contact with the sea, including the zone between
high and low water lines. A shore of unconsolidated material is usually called a BEACH.
(See Figure A-1.)
SHOREFACE. The narrow zone seaward from the low tide SHORELINE, covered by water,
over which the beach sands and gravels actively oscillate with changing wave conditions.
See INSHORE (ZONE). See Figure A-1.
A-31
SHORELINE. The intersection of a specified plane of water with the shore or beach (e.g., the
high water shoreline would be the intersection of the plane of mean high water with the shore
or beach). The line delineating the shoreline on National Ocean Service nautical charts
and surveys approximates the mean high water line.
SIGNIFICANT WAVE. A statistical term relating to the one-third highest waves of a given wave
group and defined by the average of their heights and periods. The composition of the higher
waves depends upon the extent to which the lower waves are considered. Experience
indicates that a careful observer who attempts to establish the character of the higher waves
will record values which approximately fit the definition of the significant wave.
SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT. The average height of the one-third highest waves of a given
wave group. Note that the composition of the highest waves depends upon the extent to
which the lower waves are considered. In wave record analysis, the average height of the
highest one-third of a selected number of waves, this number being determined by dividing
the time of record by the significant period. Also CHARACTERISTIC WAVE HEIGHT.
SIGNIFICANT WAVE PERIOD. An arbitrary period generally taken as the period of the one-
third highest waves within a given group. Note that the composition of the highest
waves depends upon the extent to which the lower waves are considered. In wave record
analysis, this is determined as the average period of the most frequently recurring of the
larger well-defined waves in the record under study.
SLACK TIDE (SLACK WATER). The state of a tidal current when its velocity is near zero,
especially the moment when a reversing current changes direction and its velocity is
zero. Sometimes considered the intermediate period between ebb and flood currents during
which the velocity of the currents is less than 0.05 meter per second (0.1 knot). See
STAND OF TIDE.
SLOPE. The degree of inclination to the horizontal. Usually expressed as a ratio, such as 1:25 or
1 on 25, indicating 1 unit vertical rise in 25 units of horizontal distance; or in a decimal
fraction (0.04); degrees (2° 18'); or percent (4 percent).
SOIL CLASSIFICATION (size). An arbitrary division of a continuous scale of grain sizes such
that each scale unit or grade may serve as a convenient class interval for conducting the
analysis or for expressing the results of an analysis. There are many classifications used; the
two most often used are shown graphically in Table A-1.
A-32
SOLITARY WAVE. A wave consisting of a single elevation (above the original water surface),
whose height is not necessarily small compared to the depth, and neither followed nor
preceded by another elevation or depression of the water surfaces.
SOUND (noun). (1) A wide waterway between the mainland and an island, or a wide waterway
connecting two sea areas. See also STRAIT. (2) A relatively long arm of the sea or
ocean forming a channel between an island and a mainland or connecting two larger bodies,
as a sea and the ocean, or two parts of the same body; usually wider and more extensive than
a strait.
SOUNDING. A measured depth of water. On hydrographic charts the soundings are adjusted to
a specific plane of reference (SOUNDING DATUM).
SOUNDING DATUM. The plane to which soundings are referred. See also CHART DATUM.
SOUNDING LINE. A line, wire, or cord used in sounding, which is weighted at one end with a
plummet (sounding lead). Also LEAD LINE.
SPIT. A small point of land or a narrow shoal projecting into a body of water from the shore.
(See Figure A-9.)
SPRING TIDE. A tide that occurs at or near the time of new or full moon (SYZYGY) and which
rises highest and falls lowest from the mean sea level.
STAND OF TIDE. A interval at high or low water when there is no sensible change in the height
of the tide. The water level is stationary at high and low water for only an instant, but the
change in level near these times is so slow that it is not usually perceptible. See SLACK
TIDE.
A-33
STANDING WAVE. A type of wave in which the surface of the water oscillates vertically
between fixed points, called nodes, without progression. The points of maximum vertical
rise and fall are called antinodes or loops. At the nodes, the underlying water particles exhibit
no vertical motion, but maximum horizontal motion. At the antinodes, the underlying water
particles have no horizontal motion, but maximum vertical motion. They may be the result of
two equal progressive wave trains traveling through each other in opposite directions.
Sometimes called CLAPOTIS or STATIONARY WAVE.
STATIONARY WAVE. A wave of essentially stable form which does not move with respect to a
selected reference point; a fixed swelling. Sometimes called STANDING WAVE.
STILL-WATER LEVEL. The elevation that the surface of the water would assume if all wave
action were absent.
STOCKPILE. Sand piled on a beach foreshore to nourish downdrift beaches by natural littoral
currents or forces. See FEEDER BEACH.
STONE, DERRICK. Stone heavy enough to require handling individual pieces by mechanical
means, generally weighing 900 kilograms (1 ton) and up.
STORM SURGE. A rise above normal water level on the open coast due to the action of wind
stress on the water surface. Storm surge resulting from a hurricane also includes that rise in
level due to atmospheric pressure reduction as well as that due to wind stress. See WIND
SETUP.
STRAIT. A relatively narrow waterway between two larger bodies of water. See also SOUND.
STREAM. (1) A course of water flowing along a bed in the Earth. (2) A current in the sea
formed by wind action, water density differences, etc.; e.g. the Gulf Stream. See also
CURRENT, STREAM.
SURF. The wave activity in the area between the shoreline and the outermost limit of breakers.
SURF BEAT. Irregular oscillations of the nearshore water level with periods on the order of
several minutes.
SURF ZONE. The area between the outermost breaker and the limit of wave uprush. (See
Figures A-2 and A-5.)
SURGE. (1) The name applied to wave motion with a period intermediate between that of the
ordinary wind wave and that of the tide, say from 1/2 to 60 minutes. It is low height; usually
less than 0.9 meter (0.3 foot). See also SEICHE. (2) In fluid flow, long interval variations
in velocity and pressure, not necessarily periodic, perhaps even transient in nature. (3) see
STORM SURGE.
A-34
SUSPENDED LOAD. (1) The material moving in suspension in a fluid, kept up by the upward
components of the turbulent currents or by colloidal suspension. (2) The material
collected in or computed from samples collected with a SUSPENDED LOAD
SAMPLER. Where it is necessary to distinguish between the two meanings given above,
the first one may be called the "true suspended load."
SUSPENDED LOAD SAMPLER. A sampler which attempts to secure a sample of the water with
its sediment load without separating the sediment from the water.
SWASH. The rush of water up onto the beach face following the breaking of a wave. Also
UPRUSH, RUNUP. (See Figure A-2.)
SWASH CHANNEL. (1) On the open shore, a channel cut by flowing water in its return to the
present body (e.g., a rip channel). (2) A secondary channel passing through or shoreward of
an inlet or river bar. (See Figure A-9.)
SWASH MARK. The thin wavy line of fine sand, mica scales, bits of seaweed, etc., left by the
uprush when it recedes from its upward limit of movement on the beach face.
SWELL. Wind-generated waves that have traveled out of their generating area. Swell
characteristically exhibits a more regular and longer period and has flatter crests than waves
within their fetch (SEAS).
SYNOPTIC CHART. A chart showing the distribution of meteorological conditions over a given
area at a given time. Popularly called a weather map.
SYZYGY. The two points in the Moon's orbit when the Moon is in conjunction or opposition to
the Sun relative to the Earth; time of new or full Moon in the cycle of phases.
THALWEG. In hydraulics, the line joining the deepest points of an inlet or stream channel.
TIDAL DAY. The time of the rotation of the Earth with respect to the Moon, or the interval
between two successive upper transits of the Moon over the meridian of a place,
approximately 24.84 solar hours (24 hours and 50 minutes) or 1.035 times the mean solar
day. (See Figure A-10.) Also called lunar day.
TIDAL FLATS. Marshy or muddy land areas which are covered and uncovered by the rise and
fall of the tide.
A-35
TIDAL INLET. (1) A natural inlet maintained by tidal flow. (2) Loosely, any inlet in which the
tide ebbs and flows. Also TIDAL OUTLET.
TIDAL PERIOD. The interval of time between two consecutive, like phases of the tide. (See
Figure A-10.)
TIDAL POOL. A pool of water remaining on a beach or reef after recession of the tide.
TIDAL PRISM. The total amount of water that flows into a harbor or estuary or out again with
movement of the tide, excluding any freshwater flow.
TIDAL RANGE. The difference in height between consecutive high and low (or higher high and
lower low) waters. (See Figure A-10.)
TIDAL RISE. The height of tide as referred to the datum of a chart. (See Figure A-10.)
TIDAL WAVE. (1) The wave motion of the tides. (2) In popular usage, any unusually high and
destructive water level along a shore. It usually refers to STORM SURGE or TSUNAMI.
TIDE. The periodic rising and falling of the water that results from gravitational attraction of
the Moon and Sun and other astronomical bodies acting upon the rotating Earth. Although
the accompanying horizontal movement of the water resulting from the same cause is also
sometimes called the tide, it is preferable to designate the latter as TIDAL CURRENT,
reserving the name TIDE for the vertical movement.
TIDE, DAILY RETARDATION OF. The amount of time by which corresponding tides grow later
day by day (about 50 minutes). Also LAGGING.
TIDE, DIURNAL. A tide with one high water and one low water in a day. (See Figure A-10.)
TIDE STATION. A place at which tide observations are being taken. It is called a primary tide
station when continuous observations are to be taken over a number of years to obtain basic
tidal data for the locality. A secondary tide station is one operated over a short period of time
to obtain data for a specific purpose.
A-36
TIDE, STORM. See STORM SURGE.
TOMBOLO. A bar or spit that connects or "ties" an island to the mainland or to another island.
See CUSPATE SPIT. (See Figure A-9.)
TOPOGRAPHY. The configuration of a surface, including its relief and the positions of its
streams, roads, building, etc.
TROPICAL STORM. A tropical cyclone with maximum winds less than 34 meters per second (75
mile per hour). Compare HURRICANE.
TROUGH OF WAVE. The lowest part of a waveform between successive crests. Also, that part
of a wave below still-water level. (See Figure A-3.)
UNDERTOW. A seaward current near the bottom on a sloping inshore zone. It is caused by the
return, under the action of gravity, of the water carried up on the shore by waves. Often a
misnomer for RIP CURRENT.
UNDERWATER GRADIENT. The slope of the sea bottom. See also SLOPE.
UNDULATION. A continuously propagated motion to and fro, in any fluid or elastic medium,
with no permanent translation of the particles themselves.
UPCOAST. In United States usage, the coastal direction generally trending toward the north.
UPDRIFT. The direction opposite that of the predominant movement of littoral materials.
A-37
UPLIFT. The upward water pressure on the base of a structure or pavement.
UPRUSH. The rush of water up onto the beach following the breaking of a wave. Also
SWASH, RUNUP. (See Figure A-2.)
VALLEY, SEA. A submarine depression of broad valley form without the steep side slopes which
characterize a canyon.
VARIABILITY OF WAVES. (1) The variation of heights and periods between individual waves
within a WAVE TRAIN. (Wave trains are not composed of waves of equal height and
period, but rather of heights and periods which vary in a statistical manner.) (2) The
variation in direction of propagation of waves leaving the generating area. (3) The variation
in height along the crest, usually called "variation along the wave."
VELOCITY OF WAVES. The speed at which an individual wave advances. See WAVE
CELERITY.
VISCOSITY (or internal friction). That molecular property of a fluid that enables it to support
tangential stresses for a finite time and thus to resist deformation.
WATERLINE. A juncture of land and sea. This line migrates, changing with the tide or other
fluctuation in the water level. Where waves are present on the beach, this line is also
known as the limit of backrush. (Approximately, the intersection of the land with the still-
water level.)
A-38
WAVE GENERATION. See GENERATION OF WAVES. WAVE, GRAVITY. See GRAVITY
WAVE.
WAVE GROUP. A series of waves in which the wave direction, wavelength, and wave height
vary only slightly. See also GROUP VELOCITY.
WAVE HEIGHT. The vertical distance between a crest and the preceding trough. See also
SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT. (See Figure A-3.)
WAVE HEIGHT COEFFICIENT. The ratio of the wave height at a selected point to the
deepwater wave height. The REFRACTION COEFFICIENT multiplied by the shoaling
factor.
WAVE PERIOD. The time for a wave crest to traverse a distance equal to one wavelength. The
time for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point. See also SIGNIFICANT WAVE
PERIOD.
WAVE, REFLECTED. That part of an incident wave that is returned seaward when a wave
impinges on a steep beach, barrier, or other reflecting surface.
WAVE SPECTRUM. In ocean wave studies, a graph, table, or mathematical equation showing
the distribution of wave energy as a function of wave frequency. The spectrum may be
based on observations or theoretical considerations. Several forms of graphical display are
widely used.
A-39
WAVE OF TRANSLATION. A wave in which the water particles are permanently displaced to a
significant degree in the direction of wave travel. Distinguished from an OSCILLATORY
WAVE.
WAVE TROUGH. The lowest part of a wave form between successive crests. Also that part of a
wave below still-water level.
WAVELENGTH. The horizontal distance between similar points on two successive waves
measured perpendicular to the crest. (See Figure A-3.)
WEIR JETTY. An updrift jetty with a low section or weir over which littoral drift moves into a
predredged deposition basin which is dredged periodically.
WHARF. A structure built on the shore of a harbor, river, or canal, so that vessels may lie
alongside to receive and discharge cargo and passengers.
WIND, OFFSHORE. A wind blowing seaward from the land in a coastal area.
WIND, ONSHORE. A wind blowing landward from the sea in a coastal area.
WIND SETUP. On reservoirs and smaller bodies of water (1) the vertical rise in the stillwater
level on the leeward side of a body of water caused by wind stresses on the surface of the
water; (2) the difference in still-water levels on the windward and the leeward sides of a body
of water caused by wind stresses on the surface of the water. STORM SURGE (usually
reserved for use on the ocean and large bodies of water). (See Figure A-1l.)
WIND WAVES. (1) Waves being formed and built up by the wind. (2) Loosely, any wave
generated by wind.
A-40
Table A-1. Grain size scales (soil classification).
A-42
(Wiegel, 1953)
A-43
SPILLING BREAKER SKETCH SHOWING THE GENERAL
CHARACTER OF SPILLING BREAKERS
Both photographs and diagrams of the three types of breakers are presented above. The
sketches consist of a series of profiles of the wave form as it appears before breaking,
during breaking and after breaking. The numbers opposite the profile lines indicate the
relative times of occurrences.
(Wiegel, 1953)
A-44
Pt. Pinos, California
Waves moving over a submarine ridge concentrated
to give large wave heights on a point.
A-45
(Wiegel, 1953)
Figure A-6. Refraction diagram.
A-46
Nearshore Current System
A-47
(Wiegel, 1953)
A-48
Figure A-9. Bar and beach forms. (Johnson 1919).
A-49
Figure A-10. Types of tides.
A-50
Figure A-11. Wind setup.
A-51
APPENDIX B
List
of Symbols
B1
(Continued)
B2
(Continued)
B3
(Continued)
B4
(Continued)
B5
(Continued)
B6
(Continued)
B7
(Continued)
B8
(Continued)
B9
(Continued)
B10
(Continued)
B11
(Continued)
B12
(Continued)
B13
(Continued)
B14
(Continued)
B15
(Continued)
B16
(Continued)
†Note: the SI unit of weight (meaning force, or mass accelerated at the standard free-fall rate of 9.80665 m/s2) is the newton, which is equal
to 1 kg-m/s2. When computing armor unit weights for practical purposes, newtons can be converted to kilograms (mass) by multiplying by
9.80665.
B17
(Continued)
B18
(Continued)
B19
(Continued)
†Note: the SI unit of weight (meaning force, or mass accelerated at the standard free-fall rate of 9.80665 m/s2) is the newton, which is equal
to 1 kg-m/s2. When computing armor unit weights for practical purposes, newtons can be converted to kilograms (mass) by multiplying by
9.80665.
B20
B21
APPENDIX C
Miscellaneous
Tables and Plates
LIST OF PLATES
Plate Page
C-1 Illustration of various functions of d/Lo C-2
C-2 Relationship between wave period, length, and depth C-31
C-3 Relationship between wave period, length, and depth for waves of
shorter period and wavelength C-32
C-4 Relationship between wave period, velocity, and depth C-33
C-5 Relationship between wave energy, wavelength, and wave height C-34
C-6 Change in wave direction and height due to refraction on slopes
with straight, parallel depth contours including shoaling C-35
LISTS OF TABLES
Table
C-1 Functions of d/L for even increments of d/Lo C-5
C-2 Functions of d/L for even increments of d/L C-17
C-3 Deepwater wavelength (Lo ) and velocity (Co ) as a function of wave period C-30
C-4 Conversion factors: English to metric (SI) units of measurement C-36
C-5 Phi-millimeter conversion table C-40
C-6 Values of slope angle Θ and cot Θ for various slopes C-45
C-1
Plate C-1. Illustration of various functions of d
Lo
C-2
GUIDE FOR USE OF TABLES C-1 AND C-2
d/Lo = ratio of the depth of water at any specific location to the wavelength in deep water
d/L = ratio of the depth of water at any specific location to the wavelength at that same location
H/H' o = ratio of the wave height in shallow water to what its wave height would have been in
deep water if unaffected by refraction
(shoaling coefficient)
where P is the pressure fluctuation at a depth z measured negatively below still water, Po is the
surface pressure fluctuation, d is the depth of water from still-water level to the ocean bottom, L
is the wavelength in any particular depth of water, and H is the corresponding variation of head at
a depth z . The values of K shown in the tables are for the instrument placed on the bottom using
the equation when z = -d
n = the fraction of wave energy that travels forward with the waveform: i.e., with the wave
velocity C rather than the group velocity CG
C-3
M = an energy coefficient defined as
C-4
Table C-1. Functions of d/L for even increments of d/Lo (from 0.0001 to 1.000).
C-5
Table C-1. Continued.
C-6
Table C-1. Continued.
C-7
Table C-1. Continued.
C-8
Table C-1. Continued.
C-9
Table C-1. Continued
C-10
Table C-1. Continued
C-11
Table C-1. Continued.
C-12
Table C-1. Continued.
C-13
Table C-1. Continued.
C-14
Table C-1. Continued.
C-15
Table C-1. Continued.
C-16
Table C-1. Concluded.
after Wiegel, R. L., "Oscillatory Waves," U.S. Army, Beach Erosion Board,
Bulletin, Special Issue No. 1, July 1948.
Table C-2. Functions of d/L for even increments of d/L (from 0.0001 to 1.000).
C-17
Table C-2. Continued.
C-18
Table C-2. Continued.
C-19
Table C-2. Continued.
C-20
Table C-2. Continued.
C-21
Table C-2. Continued.
C-22
Table C-2. Continued.
C-23
Table C-2. Continued.
C-24
Table C-2. Continued.
C-25
Table C-2. Continued.
C-26
Table C-2. Continued.
C-27
Table C-2. Continued.
C-28
Table C-2. Concluded.
C-29
Table C-3. Deepwater wavelength (Lo ) and velocity (Co )
as a function of wave period
C-30
Plate C-2. Relationship between wave period, length, and depth (upper graph shows
metric, lower graph English units).
C-31
C-32
C-33
C-34
C-35
Table C-4. Conversion factors: English to metric (SI) units of measurement
The following conversion factors adopted by the U.S. Department of Defense are those published by the American Society for Testing
and Materials (ASTM) (Standard for Metric Practice, December 1979), except that additional derived conversion factors have been added.
The metric units and conversion factors adopted by the ASTM are based on "International System of Units" (designated SI) which has been
fixed by the International Committee for Weights and Measures.
For most scientific and technical work it is generally accepted that the metric SI system of units is superior to all other systems of units.
The SI is the most widely accepted and used language for scientific and technical data and specifications.
In the SI system the unit of mass is the kilogram (kg) and the unit of force is the newton (N). N is defined as the force which, when
applied to a mass of 1 kg, gives the mass an acceleration of 1 m/s2.
Former metric systems used kilogram-force as the force unit, and this has resulted in the conversion of pound-force to kilogram-force
in many present-day situations, particularly in expressing the weight of a body. In the SI system the weight of a body is correctly expressed in
newtons. When the value for weight is encountered expressed in kilograms, it is best to first convert it into newtons by multiplying kilograms
by 9.80665. This provides consistent usage of the SI system, and will help to eliminate errors in derived units.
C-36
Table C-4. Concluded.
C-37
Table C-5. Phi-millimeter conversion table
Table C-5 is reproduced from the Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, with the permission of
the author and publisher. It was taken from the Harry G. Page, "Phi-Millimeter Conversion
Table," published in Volume 25, pp. 285-292, 1955, and includes that part of the table from -5.99
(about 63 mm) to +5.99 (about 0.016 mm) which provides a sufficient range for beach sediments.
The complete table extends from about -6.65 (about 100 mm) to +10.00 (about 0.001 mm).
The first column of the table shows the absolute value of phi. If it is positive, the
corresponding diameter value is shown in the second column. If phi is negative, the
corresponding diameter is shown in the third column of the table. In converting diameter values in
millimeters to their phi equivalents, the closest phi value to the given diameter may be selected. It
is seldom necessary to express phi to more than two decimal places.
The conversion table is technically a table of negative logarithms to the base 2, from the
defining equation of phi: φ = log2d , where d is the diameter in millimeters.
Values of phi can also be determined with an electronic calculator having scientific notation
by use of the following relationship:
C-38
Table C-5. Phi-millimeter conversion table
C-39
Table C-5. Continued.
C-40
Table C-5. Continued.
C-41
Table C-5. Concluded.
C-42
Table C-6. Values of slope angle φ and cot φ for various slopes.
C-43
APPENDIX D
Subject
Index
D-1
SUBJECT INDEX
D-2
SUBJECT INDEX
Burrwood, Louisiana, 3-81 Clapotis (see also Seiche; Standing wave), 2-3, 2-113,
Bypassing sand (see Sand bypassing) 2-114, 7-161 thru 7-163, 7-172 thru 7-174, 7-177,
7-178, 7-203
Clatsop
Plains, Oregon, 6-52
--C-- Spit, Oregon, 4-110, 6-52
Clay, 1-7, 4-12, 4-13, 4-17, 4-18, 4-21, 4-22, 4-24,
4-115, 7-258, 7-260
Cleveland Harbor, Ohio, 7-226
Caisson (see also Cellular-steel caisson; Concrete Cliff erosion, 1-17, 4-45, 4-114, 4-115, 4-117,
caisson; Nonbreaking wave forces on caissons), 4-127 thru 4-129
5-56, 6-93, 7-105, 7-182, 8-75, 8-77, 8-81, 8-84 Cnoidal wave, 2-44 thru 2-48, 2-54, 2-57, 2-58, 7-117
stability, 8-75, 8-81 theory, 2-2, 2-3, 2-31, 2-33, 2-44, 2-46, 2-54,
Calcais, Maine, 3-92 7-54, 7-55
Camp Pendleton, California, 4-91 Coast, 1-2
Cantilever steel sheet-pile groin, 6-79, 6-83 Coastal
Canyon (see also Submarine canyon), 4-124 engineering (see also Planning analysis), 1-1, 1-2,
Cape 1-4, 4-64, 5-1
Canaveral, Florida, 6-15, 6-25 erosion (see Shoreline erosion)
Cod, Massachusetts, 1-11, 3-110, 3-126, 4-24, 4-37, profile, 4-60
4-44, 4-77, 4-79, 4-80, 4-110, 4-112, 6-38, 6-52 structures, 1-2, 1-17, 2-1, 3-126, 4-58, 4-74, 7-1,
Fear 7-58, 7-100, 7-241, 7-247
North Carolina, 6-15, 6-16 Cobble, 1-7, 4-12, 4-13
River, 5-19, 6-22, 6-28 Coefficient (see Drag coefficient; Diffraction coeffi-
Hatteras, North Carolina, 4-35, 4-112, 4-120, cient; Energy coefficient; Expansion of ice coefficient;
4-153, 8-86 Friction coefficient; Hydrodynamic force coefficient;
Henlopen, Delaware, 4-124 Inertia coefficient; Isbash coefficient; Layer coeffi-
Henry, Virginia, 3-92 cient; Lift coefficient; Mass coefficient; Overtopping
Lookout, North Carolina, 4-120 coefficient; Reflection coefficient; Refraction
National Seashores, 4-112 coefficient; Refraction-diffraction coefficient;
May, New Jersey, 3-92, 4-80, 5-54, 6-15, 8-28, 8-86 Shoaling coefficient; Stability coefficient; Steady
Mendocino, California, 3-92 flow drag coefficient; Transmission coefficient)
Sable, Florida, 4-24 Cohesionless soil, 7-241
Romano, Florida, 4-24 Cohesive material (see also Clay; Peat; Silt), 4-21
Capillary wave, 2-5, 2-24 Cohesive soil, 7-260
Carbonate Cold Spring Inlet, New Jersey, 4-90, 4-91
loss, 4-124, 4-127, 4-128 Columbia River, Washington, 3-92
production, 4-119, 4-127 thru 4-129 Complex wave, 2-2 thru 2-4
Camel Beach, California, 4-10 Composite
Carolina breakwater, 7-182, 7-242
Beach, North Carolina, 5-21, 5-22, 6-16, 6-21, slopes, 7-35 thru 7-37, 7-40
6-22, 6-25 thru 6-28 Computer programs, 2-71, 3-89, 5-44, 7-82, 7-88
Inlet, 6-16, 6-28 Concrete (see also Interlocking concrete block; Unit
Carteret, New Jersey, 3-123, 3-124 weight--concrete), 1-23, 1-24, 5-2, 5-56, 6-1 thru
Casagrande size classification, 4-12 6-4, 6-6, 6-7, 6-10, 6-14, 6-76, 6-81, 6-83, 6-84,
Cathodic protection, 6-88 6-95, 6-96, 6-98, 7-213, 7-214, 7-235, 7-236, 7-242,
Caustic, 2-74 7-249, 7-260, 8-47, 8-51, 8-54, 8-65, 8-69, 8-71,
Caven Point, New York, 3-124, 3-125 8-73, 8-79
Cedar Key, Florida, 3-117 armor unit, 5-61, 6-88, 7-32, 7-202, 7-210, 7-212
Cedarhurst, Maryland, 6-13 thru 7-215, 7-225 thru 7-227, 7-231, 7-233, 7-235,
Celerity (see Wave celerity) 7-236, 7-239, 7-240, 8-47, 8-68
Cellular-steel bulkhead, 6-6, 6-7
caisson, 6-88 caisson, 5-59, 5-61, 6-88, 6-93
sheet-pile breakwater, 6-93
breakwater, 5-61, 6-91 thru 6-93 cap, 5-59, 6-12, 6-82, 6-89, 7-208, 7-229, 7-235,
bulkhead, 6-6 7-236, 7-239
groin, 6-80, 6-83, 6-84 groin, 6-83, 6-84
jetty, 6-87 pile, 1-20, 6-88
structures, 6-88, 6-92 revetment, 6-6, 6-10
Central pressure index, 3-110, 3-126 sheet-pile, 6-74, 6-75, 6-84, 6-88
Channel (see also Navigation channel), 1-24, 3-122, groin, 6-81, 6-84
4-154 thru 4-157, 4-161, 4-162, 4-164, 4-165, Consolidated material (see also Beach rock; Coral;
4-177, 5-2, 5-26, 5-28, 5-56 thru 5-58, 6-56, Rock), 4-23
6-58 thru 6-60, 6-73, 6-74, 7-233, 7-250, 7-251, Construction, 6-95, 6-97
7-253 design practices, 6-95, 6-97
Islands Harbor, California (Port Hueneme), 1-23, materials, 6-95
2-77, 4-37, 4-90, 5-61, 5-62, 6-61, 6-64, 6-72 Continental shelf (see also Shelf bathymetry; Shelf
revetment stability, 7-249 profile), 3-122, 3-123, 4-17, 4-61, 4-65, 4-70,
shoaling, 1-24, 4-177, 4-180, 5-56, 5-58 4-71, 4-93, 4-117, 4-147, 6-15, 7-14
Charleston, South Carolina, 3-92, 3-117, 3-124, Convergence, 2-74
3-125, 4-35 Conversion factors: English to metric, C-36
Chatham, Massachusetts, 3-92, 4-169 Coos Bay, Oregon, 4-37
Chesapeake Bay Coquille River, Oregon, 4-37
Bridge Tunnel, Virginia, 3-3 Coquina, 4-24
Maryland, 4-22, 4-141, 6-11, 6-15
D-3
SUBJECT INDEX
Coral, 4-17, 4-22, 4-23, 7-246 Del Mar, California, 4-10, 4-142
Coralline algae, 4-23 Delaware Bay, 4-140, 8-1, 8-7 thru 8-9, 8-12 thru 8-14,
Core Banks, North Carolina, 4-108, 6-38, 6-49, 6-50, 8-17, 8-21, 8-22, 8-25, 8-26, 8-31, 8-32, 8-74
6-53 Delray Beach, Florida, 6-25
Coriolis, 3-24, 3-119 Density (see also Energy density; Mass density), 2-6,
effects, 2-6, 3-115 3-6, 3-33, 3-121, 4-18, 4-50, 7-127, 7-236, 7-237
force, 2-5, 3-24 currents, 4-49, 4-164
parameter, 3-34, 3-38, 3-82, 3-84, 3-121 Design, 7-149, 7-232, 8-1
Corpus Christi, Texas, 3-112 thru 3-114, 4-37, 6-16 analysis, 5-73, 5-74, 7-3
thru 6-18, 6-25 breaking wave, 7-11, 7-13, 7-187
Corrosion, 6-88, 6-92, 6-96, 7-139, 7-149, 7-255 height, 7-4, 7-8 thru 7-10, 7-13, 7-14, 7-204
Coulomb equation, 7-259 hurricane, 8-7
Cover layer, 7-202, 7-205, 7-207, 7-211, 7-227 thru practices (see Construction design practices)
7-229, 7-233, 7-235 thru 7-240, 7-242, 7-245 thru profile, 6-26
7-249, 8-48, 8-49, 8-51, 8-58 thru 8-61, 8-69, 8-71 storm, 3-115, 3-126, 3-127
design, 7-204 water level, 3-123, 3-126, 7-2, 7-3, 7-15, 7-16,
stability, 7-238, 7-246 7-247, 7-260, 8-12
thickness, 8-48, 8-58, 8-59, 8-62, 8-74 wave, 3-104, 5-5, 5-58, 6-83, 7-3, 7-4, 7-9, 7-14,
Crane Beach, Massachusetts, 4-82, 4-83 7-15, 7-17, 7-33, 7-35, 7-37, 7-105, 7-106, 7-112,
Crescent City, California, 3-118, 6-89, 6-92, 7-226 7-127, 7-129, 7-133, 7-140, 7-146, 7-149, 7-150,
Crest, wave (see Wave crest) 7-152 thru 7-155, 7-173, 7-203, 7-208, 7-212, 7-243,
Crib, 5-56, 5-59, 5-61, 5-62, 6-6, 6-14, 6-59, 7-242 8-46, 8-47
Cube, modified (see Modified cube) conditions, 7-3, 7-16, 7-202 thru 7-204, 7-211, 8-25
Current (see also Density currents; Inlet currents; height, 7-3, 7-4, 7-15, 7-118, 7-127, 7-133, 7-146,
Littoral currents; Longshore current; Nearshore 7-203, 7-205, 7-207, 7-208, 7-211, 7-212, 7-237,
currents; Onshore-offshore currents; Rip currents; 7-242, 7-243, 7-246, 7-247, 7-249, 8-46, 8-49
Salinity currents; Tidal currents), 1-3, 1-4, 1-6, period, 5-5, 7-3, 7-127, 7-133, 7-146
1-7, 1-13, 2-60, 2-62, 4-1, 4-4, 4-5, 4-12, 4-23, Destin, Florida, 4-37
4-48, 4-49, 4-55, 4-57, 4-58, 4-89, 4-105, 4-126, Diablo Canyon, California, 7-226
4-147, 4-150, 4-157, 4-159, 4-177, 5-1, 5-2, 5-9, Diffraction coefficient (see also Wave diffraction),
5-21, 5-22, 5-35, 5-56, 5-57, 5-65, 5-73, 6-1, 6-56, 2-77, 2-92 thru 2-98, 2-105 thru 2-107, 2-110, 7-89,
6-73, 7-241, 7-245 thru 7-247, 7-254, 8-1, 8-7 7-93, 7-94, 7-99
velocity (see also Longshore current velocity), 3-119, Dispersive
3-121, 7-241, 7-246, 7-247, 7-249, 7-250, 8-12 medium, 2-25
Cuspate spit, 5-61, 5-63 thru 5-67, 5-69, 5-71 wave, 2-25, 2-56
Cuttyhank, Massachusetts, 3-92 Diurnal tide, 3-89, 3-92
Cylinders, 7-102, 7-132 Divergence, 2-74
Cylindrical pile, 7-138, 7-157 Doheny
Beach State Park, California, 6-79, 6-81
Street Beach, California, 6-25
Dolos, 6-86, 6-88, 7-75, 7-206, 7-209 thru 7-212, 7-215
--D-- thru 7-217, 7-221, 7-225, 7-226, 7-231, 7-234, 7-236
thru 7-239
Drag
coefficient (see also Steady flow drag coefficient),
d/L--Tables of Functions, 2-64, C-5, C-17 3-30, 7-101, 7-103, 7-133, 7-136 thru 7-139, 7-144,
Dade County, Florida, 1-19, 1-22, 5-20, 6-16, 6-25, 7-149
6-32 thru 6-34, 6-36 forces, 7-106, 7-109, 7-116, 7-132, 7-133, 7-136,
Dams, 1-17, 7-254 7-138, 7-145, 7-146, 7-155, 7-157
Datum plane, 3-92 Drakes Bay, California, 4-145
Daytona Beach, Florida, 1-8, 4-35, 4-37, 6-71 Dredges (see also Floating dredges; Hopper dredges;
Decay, wave (see Wave decay) Pipeline dredges; Split-hull dredges), 5-32, 5-33,
Deep water, 1-3, 1-5, 2-9, 2-15, 2-18, 2-20, 2-24 thru 6-14, 6-31, 6-36
2-28, 2-30 thru 2-32, 2-35, 2-37, 2-60, 2-62 thru Dredging (see also Land-based vehicles; Side-cast
2-64, 2-66, 2-68, 2-70, 2-71, 2-74, 2-129, 3-11, dredging), 1-17, 1-24, 1-26, 4-105, 4-117, 4-119,
3-15, 3-18, 3-24, 3-39, 3-55, 3-77, 3-101, 4-29, 4-124, 4-127 thru 4-129, 4-134, 4-176, 4-177, 4-179,
4-30, 4-95, 4-105, 4-107, 4-123, 4-124, 4-129, 6-92, 4-180, 5-28, 5-30, 5-31, 5-58, 5-73, 5-74, 6-30,
7-1, 7-2, 7-13, 7-15, 7-33, 7-63, 7-117, 7-119 thru 6-35, 6-36, 6-54, 6-72 thru 6-75
7-126, 7-157, 7-164, 7-167, 7-183, 8-26, 8-33, 8-34, plant (see also Land-based dredging plant), 5-19, 5-30
C-3, C-35 discharge line, 5-31, 5-33
significant wave height, 3-49, 3-50, 3-83 thru 3-86, Drift, littoral (see Littoral drift)
3-101, 3-105, 3-107, 4-85, 4-93, 4-99, 7-1, 7-15, Drum Inlet, North Carolina, 4-120, 4-121, 4-143, 4-153,
7-59, 7-242 4-177
wave, 2-10, 2-11, 2-17, 2-66, 3-2, 3-21, 3-24, 3-45, Duck, North Carolina, 4-77, 4-80, 4-81
3-46, 3-55 thru 3-66, 4-36, 4-46, 4-85, 4-94, Dune (see also Foredune), 1-8 thru 1-13, 1-16, 1-17,
7-3, 7-7, 7-11, 7-14, 7-89, 7-110, 7-146, 8-26, 1-19, 1-21, 1-25, 1-26, 3-71, 3-105, 3-106, 4-1,
8-33, 8-36, 8-44, 8-85, 8-87 thru 8-89 4-5, 4-27, 4-44, 4-46, 4-76, 4-78, 4-83, 4-108,
forecasting equation, 3-48 4-110, 4-117, 4-118, 4-120, 4-127, 4-128, 5-24 thru
height, 2-20, 2-64, 2-130, 2-135, 3-104, 3-107, 5-27, 6-1, 6-26, 6-37 thru 6-43, 6-48 thru 6-53
4-102, 7-5, 7-11, 7-13, 7-14, 7-16, 7-33, 7-35, construction, 5-26, 6-43, 6-53
7-44, 7-54, 8-33 using
length, 2-130, 7-4, 7-93, 7-94, 8-34, C-3, C-30 sand fencing, 4-110, 6-38, 6-39
prediction, 3-44, 3-49, 3-50, 3-66 vegetation, 4-110, 6-43
Deflation, 1-16, 4-5, 4-124, 4-127, 4-128, 5-9 formation, 4-5, 6-38, 6-48
plain, 4-108, 4-109, 4-112
D-4
SUBJECT INDEX
D-5
SUBJECT INDEX
Forecasting (see also Deep water wave prediction; Great Lakes, 1-13, 1-14, 3-19, 3-21, 3-23, 3-30,
Hurricane wave prediction; Shallow water wave 3-32, 3-96, 3-99, 3-127, 4-78, 4-91, 5-21, 5-39,
prediction; Wave hindcasting; Wave prediction), 5-56, 5-59, 6-83, 6-92, 6-93, 7-253, 8-26
3-1, 3-34, 3-55 Greyhound Rock, California, 4-136, 4-138
curves, 3-45, 3-46, 3-55 thru 3-66 Groin (see also Adjustable groin; Asphalt groin; Canti-
Foredune, 1-12, 4-5, 4-62, 4-108 thru 4-110, 4-112, lever sheet-pile groin; Cellular-steel sheet-pile
5-24, 5-26, 5-27, 6-37 thru 6-39, 6-45, 6-51 groin; Concrete groin; Concrete sheet-pile groin;
destruction, 6-38 Fixed groin; High groin; Impermeable groin; Low
Forerunner (water level), 3-111 groin; Permeable groin; Rubble-mound groin; Sheet
Foreshore, 1-2, 1-3, 1-8, 1-10, 1-21, 4-62, 4-72, pile groin; Steel groin; Steel sheet-pile groin;
4-76, 4-83, 4-86, 5-31, 5-35, 5-37, 5-40, 6-75, Terminal groin; Timber groin; Timber sheet-pile groin;
6-76 Timber-steel sheet-pile groin; Transitional groin;
slopes, 4-86 thru 4-88, 4-148, 5-8, 5-21, 6-16, 6-27 Weir groin), 1-17, 1-19, 1-23, 1-24, 2-109, 3-110,
Fort 4-6, 4-58, 4-60, 4-76, 4-136, 4-139, 5-7, 5-22, 5-24,
Hamilton, New York, 3-124, 3-125 5-32, 5-35 thru 5-56, 5-62, 6-1, 6-27, 6-56, 6-65,
Macon State Park, North Carolina, 6-25 6-76,6-83, 6-84, 7-1 thru 7-3, 7-100, 7-198, 7-204,
Myers, Florida, 4-35 7-239, 7-247
Pierce, Florida, 6-15, 6-25 alinement (see also Beach alinement), 5-53
Point, Texas, 3-112 artificial filling, 5-7, 5-52, 5-54
Pulaski, Georgia, 3-117 construction, 4-6, 5-7, 5-39, 5-41, 5-52, 5-54
Sheridan, Illinois, 7-255 thru 5-56, 6-83
Foundation (see also Pile foundation; Rubble founda- definition, 1-23, 5-35
tion; Rubble-mound foundation), 1-23, 6-6, 6-84, design, 4-143, 5-35, 5-37, 5-40, 5-45, 6-84
6-88, 6-92, 6-93, 7-177, 7-179, 7-241, 7-242, dimension, 5-44
7-244, 7-256 economic justification, 5-40
conditions, 6-13, 6-14, 6-93, 7-240, 8-85 field (see Groin system)
design, 5-73, 7-149 functional design, 5-39, 5-56
materials, 6-14, 6-84, 6-93, 7-241, 7-242 legal aspects, 5-56
soil, 7-241, 7-242, 7-245, 8-75 operation, 5-35
stability, 7-229, 7-249 system, 1-23, 5-7, 5-35, 5-39 thru 5-41, 5-43 thru
Freeport, Texas, 3-112 5-47, 5-52, 5-54 thru 5-56, 6-54, 7-255
Frequency, wave (see Wave frequency) types, 6-76, 6-84
Friction (see also Angle of wall friction; Bottom Groundwater, 1-16, 7-241, 7-245, 7-249
friction; Internal friction angle), 3-20, 3-34, 3-74, Group velocity, 2-23 thru 2-25, 2-29, 2-31, 2-32,
3-75, 3-98, 4-30, 8-33 3-43, 4-94, 4-95, C-3
coefficient, 4-55, 4-162, 7-260, 8-84
factor, 3-68, 3-72, 4-100, 4-164
loss, 3-55, 3-69
velocity, 3-25, 3-26 --H--
Friday Harbor, Washington, 3-118
Fully arisen sea, 3-24, 3-42, 3-49, 3-50, 3-53, 3-77
D-6
SUBJECT INDEX
Humboldt Bay, California, 6-86, 6-88, 7-226 Initial water level, 3-111
Hunting Island Beach, North Carolina, 6-25 Inlet (see also Tidal inlets), 1-3, 1-6, 1-8, 1-13, 1-14,
Huntington Beach, California, 3-3, 4-37, 4-41 1-17, 1-24, 1-26, 2-60, 3-110, 4-1, 4-21, 4-44, 4-45,
Hurricane (see also Design hurricane; Hypothetical 4-58, 4-63, 4-78, 4-89, 4-90, 4-114, 4-120, 4-127
hurricane; Probable maximum hurricane; Standard thru 4-133, 4-140, 4-142, 4-148 thru 4-150, 4-152,
Project Hurricane), 1-10, 3-1, 3-11, 3-77, 3-81 4-153, 4-157 thru 4-159, 4-161, 4-162, 4-164 thru
thru 3-87, 3-89, 3-101, 3-105, 3-110 thru 3-113, 4-167, 4-169, 4-173 thru 4-178, 5-24, 5-26, 5-28,
3-123 thru 3-126, 3-128, 4-5, 4-31, 4-34, 4-35, 5-30, 5-32, 5-34, 5-35, 5-54, 5-56, 5-57, 6-72
4-42 thru 4-45, 6-16, 6-27, 7-4, 7-16, 7-253, thru 6-76
8-7 thru 8-9 barrier beach (see Barrier beach)
Agnes, 3-77 currents, 4-148, 4-161, 4-166, 5-24, 6-73
Allen, 6-53 effect on barrier beaches, 1-14
Audrey, 3-81, 4-45 inner bar (see Inner bar)
Beulah, 6-53 middleground shoal (see Middleground shoal)
Camille, 3-77, 3-115, 4-43, 4-45, 6-4 outer bar (see Outer bar)
Carla, 3-111 thru 3-115, 4-45 stabilization (see also Jetty stabilization), 4-167,
Carol, 3-123, 3-124 5-56
Cindy, 4-45 Inner bar, 1-14, 5-28
Connie, 3-80 Inshore (see Shoreface)
David, 3-79, 6-35, 6-37 Interlocking concrete block, 6-6, 6-12, 6-13
defined, 3-110 revetment, 6-6, 6-12, 6-13
Diane, 3-80 Internal friction angle, 7-256 thru 7-258
Donna, 3-77, 3-115, 4-45 Irregular wave, 2-108, 3-15, 3-19, 7-39, 7-41, 7-58, 7-59,
Ella, 3-81 7-62, 7-67, 7-69 thru 7-72, 7-80, 7-81, 7-88 thru 7-90,
Eloise, 4-77, 4-78 7-208, 7-209
Fern, 4-110 Isbash coefficient, 7-253
Fredric, 1-8, 6-75 Island (see also Barrier island; Offshore island),
protection barriers, 7-253 1-8, 2-75, 2-109, 4-108, 4-110, 4-112
storm tracks (see Storm tracks) profile, 4-112
surge (see Storm surge) Isobar, 3-34, 3-35, 3-38, 3-39, 3-81
wave, 3-77 3-78 Isolines, 3-69, 3-85, 5-11, 5-14, 7-119 thru 7-126
prediction, 3-83
wind field, 3-81
Hydraulic pipeline dredges (see Pipeline dredges)
Hydrodynamic --J--
equations, 2-31, 2-59, 2-62, 3-119
force coefficient, 7-101 thru 7-103, 7-105, 7-136,
7-160
Hydrograph, 3-95 Jetty (see also Cellular-steel sheet-pile jetty; Rubble-
Hydrographic surveys, 4-62, 7-17 mound jetty; Sheet-pile jetty; Weir jetty), 1-3,
Hydrostatic 1-19, 1-24, 2-109, 3-110, 3-112, 3-113, 4-58, 4-76,
forces (see also Uplift forces), 6-1, 6-6, 7-161, 4-89, 4-136, 4-144, 4-151, 4-152, 4-158, 4-164,
7-163, 7-171, 7-186, 7-194, 7-195, 7-197, 7-198, 4-167, 4-173, 5-22, 5-24, 5-28 thru 5-30, 5-32,
7-201, 7-260, 8-77, 8-81, 8-83 5-34, 5-56 thru 5-60, 6-1, 6-32, 6-54 thru 6-56,
pressure, 7-171, 7-172, 7-182, 7-192, 8-80 6-58, 6-61, 6-64, 6-66, 6-67, 6-69 thru 6-72, 6-74,
Hypothetical 6-84, 6-86, 6-88, 7-2, 7-3, 7-100, 7-203, 7-207,
hurricane, 3-126 7-212, 7-225, 7-226, 7-229, 7-233, 7-238, 7-239,
slopes, 7-35, 7-38, 7-39 7-245, 7-247
construction, 4-6, 4-147, 6-53, 6-59, 6-61, 6-73,
6-84, 6-88
definition, 5-56
- -I - - effect on shoreline, 5-58
siting, 5-57
stabilization, 5-28, 5-56, 6-56, 6-74
types, 5-56, 6-84
Ice (see also Expansion of ice coefficient), 7-253 Johnston Island, Hawaii, 3-94
thru 7-256 Joint North Sea Wave Project, 3-44
forces, 7-253, 7-255 Jones
Ijmuiden, The Netherlands, 6-92 Beach, New York, 4-11, 4-57, 4-77, 4-79, 4-110
Immersed weight, 4-96 Inlet, New York, 6-25
Impact forces, 7-253 Juneau, Alaska, 3-118
Imperial Beach, California, 1-3, 4-37, 5-9 Jupiter
Impermeable Inlet, Florida, 6-59, 6-62, 6-72
breakwater, 2-78 thru 2-89, 7-61, 7-64, 7-67, 7-71, Island, Florida, 6-12, 6-25
7-73, 7-77, 7-90
groin, 1-24, 5-52, 6-76, 6-83
slopes (see also Wave runup--impermeable slopes),
7-11, 7-16, 7-18 thru 7-23, 7-34, 7-49 - -K - -
structures, 7-16, 7-18, 7-33, 7-41, 7-54, 7-59, 7-73
Indian
River Inlet, Delaware, 5-59
Rocks Beach, Florida, 6-25 Kahului, Hawaii, 6-90, 6-92, 7-226, 7-235
Inertia coefficient, 7-101, 7-103 Kakuda-Hama, Japan, 5-70
Inertial forces, 7-103, 7-106, 7-109, 7-115, 7-132, Kenosha, Wisconsin, 4-91
7-136, 7-145, 7-146, 7-157 Ketchikan, Alaska, 3-91, 3-118
Keulegan-Carpenter number, 7-134 thru 7-137, 7-145
D-7
SUBJECT INDEX
D-8
SUBJECT INDEX
D-9
SUBJECT INDEX
Newark, New Jersey, 3-124, 3-125 Oscillatory wave (see also Airy Wave Theory; Linear
Newport Wave Theory), 1-5, 2-4, 2-6, 2-9, 2-27, 2-55 thru
Beach, California, 6-25, 6-79 2-57, 2-59
Rhode Island, 3-116, 3-124, 3-125, 4-23, 4-77 Outer
Nodal zones (see Longshore transport nodal zones) Banks, North Carolina, 6-41, 6-42, 6-48
Node, 2-113, 3-97 thru 3-99 bar, 1-14, 1-24, 4-152, 4-157, 4-173, 4-175,
Nonbreaking wave (see also Miche-Rundgren Theory), 3-18, 4-177, 5-26, 5-28
7-2, 7-3, 7-14, 7-17, 7-45 thru 7-53, 7-100 thru Overtopping, 1-13, 2-119, 3-122, 4-44, 4-108, 4-110,
7-102, 7-117, 7-161, 7-163, 7-164, 7-166, 7-167, 4-112, 5-3, 5-4, 5-20, 5-26, 5-58, 5-69, 5-73, 6-1,
7-169, 7-181, 7-202, 7-206, 7-207, 7-209, 7-211, 6-48, 6-93, 7-16, 7-18, 7-33, 7-43 thru 7-54, 7-56,
7-212, 7-238, 7-239, 8-47, 8-49, 8-58 7-58, 7-59, 7-61 thru 7-63, 7-67 thru 7-69, 7-73,
forces (see also Sainflou Method), 7-161, 7-162, 7-74, 7-80 thru 7-83, 7-89, 7-173, 7-205, 7-211,
7-165, 7-168, 7-170 7-212, 7-225, 7-227 thru 7-229, 7-231, 7-233, 7-235,
on caissons, 8-76 7-236, 7-238, 7-239, 7-248, 7-249, 8-48
on piles, 7-100 coefficient, 7-67, 7-71, 7-72
on walls, 7-161 Overwash, 1-13, 1-16, 1-17, 4-43, 4-80, 4-108, 4-110
height, 7-204 thru 4-112, 4-114, 4-120, 4-122, 4-127, 4-128, 6-73
Noncircular pile, 7-102, 7-159, 7-160 fans, 1-13, 1-16
Nonlinear Oxnard Plain Shore, California, 4-91
deformation, 4-29, 4-30
Wave Theory (see Finite Amplitude Wave Theory)
Nonvertical walls, 7-200, 7-201
Norfolk, Virginia, 3-117 --P--
Northeaster (see also Standard Project Northeaster),
3-110, 4-31, 4-44, 4-78, 4-157, 6-28
Nourishment, beach (see Artificial beach nourishment;
Beach nourishment) Padre Island, Texas, 1-11, 4-108 thru 4-111, 4-124,
Numerical models (see Mathematical models) 4-136, 6-37, 6-38, 6-40, 6-42, 6-43, 6-49, 6-51
thru 6-53
Palm Beach, Florida, 4-37, 4-91, 5-9, 6-15
County, 6-72
--0-- Panic grasses, 6-44, 6-48, 6-53
Pass Christian, Mississippi, 3-115
Passive earth force, 7-257
Peahala, New Jersey, 4-8
Oak Island, North Carolina, 5-19 Peak surge, 3-123, 8-9
Ocean Peat, 4-17, 4-22, 4-27
City Pelican Island, Texas, 3-112, 3-113
Maryland, 4-91, 6-83, 8-85, 8-86, 8-90 Pensacola, Florida, 3-90, 3-117, 4-35
Inlet, 1-18 Inlet, 4-179, 4-180
New Jersey, 4-91 Percolation, 2-2, 2-63, 3-55, 4-29, 4-36, 4-124
Beach, 6-25 Perdido Pass, Alabama, 4-91, 6-61, 6-69, 6-75
wave, 1-4, 2-4, 2-74, 3-1, 3-2, 3-15, 6-32, 6-93 Period, wave (see Design wave period; Significant wave
Oceanside, California, 4-10, 6-25 period; Tidal period; Wave period)
Harbor, 6-61 Periodic wave, 2-3, 4-58, 4-94, 7-11, 7-16
Ocracoke Island, North Carolina, 4-110, 6-49, 6-52 Permeable
Offshore, 1-2, 1-3, 3-107, 4-72, 4-80, 4-147, 5-3, 5-9, breakwater, 7-61, 7-64, 7-73, 7-80 thru 7-82
5-19, 5-21, 5-22, 5-55, 5-62, 5-64, 5-67, 5-69, groin, 1-24, 5-52, 5-53, 6-76
5-71, 5-73, 7-14, 7-17 Perth Amboy, New Jersey, 3-124, 3-125
bar, 1-3, 1-10, 1-13, 2-122, 4-78, 6-16 Phase velocity (see also Wave celerity), 2-7, 2-23
bathymetry, 1-7, 2-124, 3-123, 4-78 thru 2-25, 2-31
breakwater, 1-23, 2-105 thru 2-108, 4-167, 5-29, Phi
5-30, 5-34, 5-61 thru 5-67, 5-69, 5-71, 5-73, millimeter conversion table, C-38
6-55, 6-61, 6-72, 6-93 thru 6-95 units, 4-14, 4-15, 4-17, 4-25, 5-11
types, 5-59, 6-93 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, 3-116, 3-124, 3-125
island, 4-30, 4-114, 4-117, 8-1 thru 8-3 Pierson-Neuman-James wave prediction model, 3-43
slopes, 4-117, 4-120, 4-121, 4-127, 4-128, 5-5, Pile (see also Breaking wave forces on piles; Concrete
5-21, 5-22, 7-41 pile; Concrete sheet-pile; Cylindrical pile; Non-
structures, 1-22, 2-108, 7-149 breaking wave forces on piles; Noncircular pile;
wave climate, 4-29, 4-42 Sheet-pile; Steel sheet-pile; Timber pile; Vertical
zone, 4-55, 4-58, 4-60, 4-73, 4-121, 4-126, pile; Wave forces on piles), 5-53, 6-1, 6-76, 6-83,
4-129, 6-56 6-84, 6-93, 7-101, 7-103, 7-106, 7-109 thru 7-111,
Old Point Comfort, Virginia, 3-124, 3-125 7-127, 7-129, 7-132, 7-138, 7-141, 7-147, 7-149
Onshore-offshore thru 7-155, 7-157, 7-159, 7-160, 7-256
currents (see also Littoral currents; Nearshore diameter, 7-103, 7-131, 7-138, 7-140, 7-144, 7-146,
currents), 4-49 7-155
profiles, 4-75 foundation, 4-27
transport, 1-13, 4-57, 4-58, 4-65, 4-66, 4-71, 4-73, group, 7-153 thru 7-155
4-74, 4-76, 4-83, 4-117, 4-133, 4-147, 5-35, 5-63 Pinellas County, Florida, 4-91
Orange, Texas, 3-112, 3-113 Pioneer Point, Cambridge, Maryland, 6-10
Organic reefs, 4-23 Pipeline dredges, 5-32, 5-33, 5-54, 5-60, 6-14, 6-16,
Orthogonal, 2-61 thru 2-66, 2-68 thru 2-75, 2-109, 6-30 thru 6-32, 6-56, 6-59, 6-61, 6-73, 6-76
2-110, 7-15, 7-156, 8-33 Pismo Beach, California, 4-124
Planning analysis, 1-1, 5-1, 5-2, 6-14
D-10
SUBJECT INDEX
D-11
SUBJECT INDEX
D-12
SUBJECT INDEX
D-13
SUBJECT INDEX
Shore, 1-2 thru 1-4, 1-6, 1-7, 1-9, 1-13 thru 1-15, Small Amplitude Wave Theory, 2-2, 2-4, 2-6, 2-7, 4-46,
1-19, 1-23 thru 1-25, 3-1, 3-4, 3-30, 3-51, 3-81, 4-48, 4-65, 4-67, 4-68, 4-73, 4-92, 4-94, 4-105
3-99, 3-101, 3-102, 4-66, 4-89, 4-117, 4-147, Soil (see also Cohesionless soil; Cohesive soil; Founda-
4-181, 5-2, 5-3, 5-6 thru 5-8, 5-10, 5-23, 5-28, tion soil; Unit weight--soil), 5-6, 6-97, 7-240,
5-32, 5-39, 5-40, 5-44, 5-45, 5-52, 5-55, 5-56, 7-241, 7-245, 7-248, 7-249, 7-256 thru 7-258, 7-260,
5-58, 5-60 thru 5-62, 5-64, 5-66, 5-67, 5-71, 5-74 8-85
alinement (see Beach alinement) bearing pressure, 8-75, 8-81, 8-84, 8-85
connected breakwater, 1-23, 5-29, 5-30, 5-58 thru classification (see also Casagrande size classifica-
5-60, 6-55, 6-61, 6-88 tion; Unified soil classification; Wentworth size
types, 5-59, 6-88 classification), 4-13, A-41
protection (see also Beach protection), 1-1, 1-3, mechanics, 4-18, 6-84, 7-256
1-15, 1-22, 2-1, 2-2, 5-2, 5-6, 5-7, 5-62, 5-64, Solitary wave, 2-4, 2-45, 2-49, 2-56 thru 2-59,
5-74, 6-6, 6-93, 7-16 7-16
Shoreface (see also Beach face), 1-2, 2-1, 4-67, 4-71 theory, 2-2, 2-3, 2-33, 2-44, 2-49, 2-55, 2-58,
thru 4-73, 4-75, 5-9, 6-84 2-130, 3-101, 4-94, 4-95, 7-117
Shoreline, 1-2 thru 1-4, 1-7, 1-13, 1-15, 2-27, 2-71, Solomons Island, Maryland, 3-116, 3-124, 3-125
2-73, 2-126, 2-127, 2-136, 3-42, 3-99, 3-106, South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida, 4-144, 6-54, 6-57
3-119, 3-120, 3-123, 4-1, 4-3, 4-8, 4-23, 4-50, Southampton, New York, 4-37
4-53, 4-54, 4-57, 4-65, 4-75, 4-80, 4-82, 4-85, Southport, North Carolina, 3-117, 3-124, 3-125
4-89, 4-92, 4-94, 4-95, 4-113, 4-114, 4-134, 4-140, Specific
4-142, 4-147, 4-148, 4-152, 4-154, 4-157, 4-167, energy (see Energy density)
4-168, 4-170, 4-171, 4-173, 4-175, 4-180, 5-2 thru gravity (see also Mass density; Unit weight), 4-18,
5-4, 5-7, 5-22 thru 5-24, 5-26, 5-34 thru 5-44, 4-21, 4-22, 4-86, 6-97, 7-205, 7-207, 7-242, 7-243
5-46, 5-53, 5-58 thru 5-63, 5-65 thru 5-67, 5-69, littoral material, 4-17, 4-18
5-71, 5-73, 6-27, 6-80, 6-93, 6-95, 7-2, 7-89, sand, 4-18
7-195, 8-1, 8-26, 8-33, 8-34, 8-85, 8-90, A-48, Speed, wind (see Wind speed)
C-35 Spillway, sand (see Sand spillway)
erosion, 1-10, 1-13, 1-15 thru 1-17, 4-5 thru 4-7, Spits (see also Cuspate spit), 1-8, 4-57, 4-90,
4-9, 4-114, 4-117, 4-173 4-112, 4-121, 4-123, 4-129, 4-130, 4-132, 4-147,
Side-cast dredging, 6-76 6-74
Sieve analysis, 4-17, 4-27, 4-28, 5-10 Split-hull
Significant wave, 3-2, 3-11, 3-71, 3-87, 3-104, barge, 6-75, 6-76
4-69, 7-14, 7-41, 7-59, 7-61, 8-36 dredges, 1-26
height (see also Deep water significant wave Spring tides, 4-45, 4-80, 4-152, 8-12
height), 3-2, 3-6, 3-10, 3-21, 3-22, 3-39, 3-43, Spuyten Duyvil, New York, 3-124, 3-125
3-52, 3-70, 3-71, 3-75, 3-77, 3-85, 3-87, 3-102, Stability (see also Beach stability; Caisson stability;
3-104, 4-31, 4-37, 4-40, 4-41, 4-73, 4-74, 4-93, Channel revetment stability; Cover layer stability;
4-94, 7-2, 7-3, 7-14, 7-41, 7-59, 7-67, 7-69, Dune stabilization; Foundation stability; Inlet
7-72, 7-80, 7-93, 7-94, 7-99, 7-208, 7-245, 8-18, stabilization; Jetty stabilization; Rubble foundation
8-25, 8-38 thru 8-41, 8-44, 8-45 stability; Rubble-mound structure stability; Struc-
period, 3-2, 3-6, 3-52, 3-77, 3-81, 3-84, 3-87, tural stability; Toe stability), 3-25, 3-26, 3-30,
7-1, 7-2, 7-67, 7-93, 7-94, 8-18, 8-38 thru 3-32, 3-33, 3-35, 3-52, 4-6, 4-112, 4-133, 5-6, 5-8,
8-41 5-10, 6-1, 6-13, 6-31, 6-83, 6-88, 6-92, 6-93, 7-200,
Silt, 1-7, 4-12, 4-13, 4-17, 4-21, 4-22, 4-71, 7-204, 7-206, 7-210, 7-215, 7-235, 7-236, 7-239,
4-115, 7-258 7-242, 7-245, 7-247 thru 7-249, 7-254, 8-79
Simple coefficient, 7-205, 7-207, 7-215, 7-225, 7-239,
harmonic wave (see Sinusoidal wave) 8-49, 8-50
wave, 2-2, 2-3 number, 7-207, 7-243, 7-244
Sinks (see also Line sinks; Littoral material sinks; Stabit, 7-216
Point sinks), 4-60, 4-114, 4-126, 4-129, 4-131, Standard
4-132 deviation (see also Moments), 3-11, 3-14, 3-15, 3-17,
Sinusoidal wave, 2-3, 2-6, 2-8, 2-10, 2-24, 3-5, 3-11, 4-14, 4-15, 4-17, 4-40, 4-77, 5-10, 6-26, 7-2,
3-18 7-145, 8-91
Sitka, Alaska, 3-118 Project
Siuslaw River, Oregon, 3-92 Hurricane, 3-126, 4-42
Size Northeaster, 3-126
analysis, 4-27, 4-28 Standing wave (see also Clapotis; Seiche), 2-3, 2-75,
classification, sediment (see Soil classification) 2-113, 2-114, 3-89, 3-96 thru 3-98, 7-161
Skagway, Alaska, 3-118 antinode (see Antinode)
Skewness (see also Moments), 4-15, 4-17, 5-12 node (see Node)
Sliding, 7-254, 8-81, 8-84 Staten Island, New York, 4-136, 4-139
Slopes (see also Beach fill slopes; Beach slopes; Steady flow drag coefficient, 7-139
Bottom slopes; Composite slopes; Foreshore slopes; Steel, 1-20, 1-23, 1-24, 5-56, 5-59, 6-1, 6-84, 6-88,
Hypothetical slopes; Impermeable slopes; Nearshore 6-96, 6-98, 7-149
slopes; Offshore slopes; Quarrystone slopes; Rip- groin, 6-76 thru 6-80, 6-84
rap slopes; Rubble slope; Structure slope), 2-59, sheet-pile, 5-56, 5-59, 5-62, 6-76, 6-80, 6-84, 6-88,
2-67, 2-74, 2-116 thru 2-118, 3-99, 3-102, 3-107 6-92, 7-242
thru 3-109, 3-119, 4-44, 4-65, 4-85 thru 4-88, 5-6, breakwater (see also Cellular-steel sheet-pile
5-9, 5-21, 5-22, 5-37, 5-40, 5-45, 5-49, 5-50, 5-67, breakwater), 6-91, 6-92
6-32, 6-46, 6-88, 7-4, 7-6, 7-8, 7-9, 7-18 thru bulkhead, 6-6, 6-8
7-21, 7-24 thru 7-38, 7-40, 7-43, 7-44, 7-54, 7-56, groin, 6-76, 6-84
7-59, 7-63, 7-72, 7-82, 7-84, 7-183, 7-187, 7-202 Steepness, wave (see Wave steepness)
thru 7-206, 7-210, 7-211, 7-235 thru 7-239, 7-241, Stevensville, Michigan, 4-110
7-245 thru 7-247, 7-251, 7-257, 7-260, C-35, C-43
D-14
SUBJECT INDEX
D-15
SUBJECT INDEX
Tidal (Cont) Underlayer, 7-210, 7-227 thru 7-229, 7-236, 7-239, 7-240,
range, 1-6, 1-17, 3-92, 4-4, 4-83, 4-86, 4-128, 4-164 7-242, 7-246, 8-48, 8-63, 8-64, 8-66, 8-69, 8-71
thru 4-166, 5-65, 5-66 thru 5-68, 5-73, 5-74, 6-74, thickness, 8-62, 8-63, 8-73
6-75, 6-96, 7-2, 7-17, 7-250, 8-9 Unified soil classification, 4-12, 4-13
wave (see also Tide; Tsunami), 3-92, 4-148, 4-166 Unit weight (see also Mass density; Specific gravity),
Tide (see also Astronomical tides; Diurnal tide; Spring 4-18, 7-213, 7-214, 7-229, 7-233, 7-236, 7-257,
tide), 1-1, 1-4, 1-6, 1-7, 1-10, 3-1, 3-88, 3-89, 7-258, 7-260
3-92, 3-93, 3-112 thru 3-114, 3-125, 4-1, 4-4, 4-5, concrete, 8-47, 8-49, 8-54 thru 8-57, 8-70, 8-72,
4-44, 4-76, 4-83, 4-152, 4-161, 4-162, 4-166, 5-1, 8-73
5-9, 5-20, 5-39, 5-40, 5-57, 5-66 thru 5-69, 7-192, littoral material (see also Immersed weight), 4-18
7-241, 7-250, 7-255, A-50 rock, 7-237, 7-243, 8-58, 8-60
curves, 3-89 thru 3-91 soil, 7-256
gage record, 3-11, 3-93, 3-94 stone material, 8-59, 8-60
prediction, 3-88, 3-89 water, 7-205, 7-243, 8-49, 8-76
Tillamook Bay, Oregon, 4-37 Uplift forces, 6-6, 6-97, 7-147, 7-235, 7-238, 7-260,
Timber, 1-20, 1-23, 1-24, 5-56, 5-59, 5-61, 6-1, 6-76, 8-80
6-83, 6-93, 6-96
groin, 6-76 thru 6-78, 6-84
pile, 5-56, 5-59, 6-76, 6-88, 6-96, 6-97
sheet-pile, 6-84, 6-88 - -V - -
bulkhead, 6-6, 6-9
groin, 6-77, 6-84
steel sheet-pile groin, 6-76, 6-78
Toe (see also Dutch toe; Structure toe), 1-21, 2-92, Variability, wave (see Wave height variability)
3-105, 5-21, 5-22, 5-26, 6-1, 7-175, 7-181, 7-182, Vegetation (see also American beach grass; Beach grasses;
7-196, 7-197, 7-201, 7-237, 7-241, 7-242, 7-245 Dune construction using vegetation; European beach
thru 7-248, 8-75 grass; Panic grasses; Sea oats), 1-13, 1-17, 3-66,
apron, 7-245 thru 7-249 3-72, 3-75, 4-5, 4-6, 4-76, 5-24, 5-26, 6-37 thru 6-39,
berm, 7-228, 7-229, 7-237, 7-238, 7-249 6-43, 6-44, 6-48, 6-51
protection, 5-5, 7-229, 7-245, 7-246 Velocity (see also Bottom velocity; Current velocity;
scour, 7-245, 7-248, 8-75 Fall velocity; Fluid velocity; Friction velocity;
stability 7-238 Group velocity; Longshore current velocity; Phase
Toledo, Ohio, 3-97 velocity; Water particle velocity; Wave celerity;
Tombolo, 1-23, 4-136, 4-138, 5-62 thru 5-67, 5-69, Wind speed), 2-113, 3-12, 3-25, 3-35, 3-83, 3-84,
5-71, 5-73, 6-95 4-47, 4-48, 4-54, 4-55, 4-70, 4-146, 4-161 thru
Torrey Pines, California, 4-37 4-163, 5-28, 7-102, 7-135, 7-138, 7-139, 7-249
Toskane, 7-206, 7-215, 7-216, 7-222, 7-234, 7-239 thru 7-253
Tracers (see also Artificial tracers; Flourescent forces, 7-249
tracers; Natural tracers; Radioactive tracers), Venice, California, 4-37, 5-62
4-133 thru 4-145 Ventura, California, 4-145, 7-226
Transition zone, 4-72, 4-73, S-22, 5-23 Marina, 6-61
Transitional Vertical
depths, 2-10 piles, 7-102, 7-110, 7-118, 7-127, 7-129, 7-135,
groins, 5-45 thru 5-47 7-150, 7-157
water, 2-9, 2-15, 2-24, 2-25, 2-31 thro 2-33, 2-37, walls, 1-17, 2-112, 2-113, 6-6, 7-45, 7-161, 7-162,
2-62, 2-64, 3-24, 3-55, 7-63, 7-117 7-170, 7-174, 7-177, 7-178, 7-182, 7-187, 7-196,
Translatory wave, 2-4, 2-56 7-199, 7-200, 7-203
Transmission Virginia
coefficient, 2-112, 7-62, 7-66, 7-67, 7-73, 7-80 Beach, Virginia, 4-37, 4-41, 6-7, 6-25, 6-54
thru 7-82, 7-88 Key, Florida, 6-25
wave (see Wave transmission) Viscosity, water (see Kinematic viscosity)
Transport (see Littoral transport; Longshore transport;
Mass transport; Sand movement; Sediment transport)
Transverse forces, 7-132, 7-133, 7-135
Treasure Island, Florida, 6-25 --W--
Tribar, 5-59, 6-90, 6-92, 7-81, 7-83, 7-206, 7-209,
7-211, 7-215 thru 7-217, 7-220, 7-225, 7-226, 7-231,
7-234, 7-239, 8-47, 8-50 thru 8-52, 8-54, 8-55, 8-59
thru 8-61, 8-63 thru 8-65, 8-67, 8-69, 8-70, 8-73 Wachapreague Inlet, 4-159
Trochoidal Wave Theory, 2-2 Waianae Harbor, Oahu, Hawaii, 7-226
Tropical storm, 3-110, 3-119, 3-123, 3-126, 4-31, 4-34, Waikiki Beach, Hawaii, 4-91, 5-62
4-35 Wallops Island, Virginia, 6-77
Tsunami, 1-1, 1-4, 1-7, 2-5, 2-56, 3-88, 3-89, 3-92 Walls (see also Angle of wall friction; Breaking wave
thru 3-94, 3-96, 4-46, 7-1 forces on walls; Nonbreaking wave forces on walls;
Tybee Island, Georgia, 6-25 Nonvertical walls; Seawalls; Vertical walls; Wave
forces on walls), 1-20, 2-126, 5-2 thru 5-6, 6-6,
6-14,6-88, 7-3, 7-25, 7-45, 7-51 thru 7-53, 7-162,
7-163, 7-172 thru 7-174, 7-177, 7-178, 7-180 thru
- -U - - 7-183, 7-187, 7-190, 7-192 thru 7-197, 7-199 thru
7-201, 7-235, 7-242, 7-249, 7-256, 7-257, 7-260
Walton County, Florida, 4-77, 4-79
Washington, D.C., 3-116
Umpqua River, Oregon, 4-37 Water
Unalaska Island, Alaska, 3-118 depth (see also Deep water; Relative depth; Shallow
water; Shoaling water; Transitional water), 2-2, 2-9,
D-16
SUBJECT INDEX
D-17
SUBJECT INDEX
D-18
SUBJECT INDEX
--Y--
--Z--
D-19
Point Reyes National Seashore, California, 8 April 1969