Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Lonely Planet China, Tibet
Lonely Planet China, Tibet
Why Go?
When to Go
Best Monasteries
Best Views
Tibet Highlights
NEPAL ROUTE
TOUR AGENCY
TOUR AGENCY
( ; 4423207; www.ecotrek.com.np; Thamel)
TRAVEL AGENCY
TRAVEL AGENCY
QINGHAI ROUTE
OTHER ROUTES
LHASA
TRAVEL AGENCY
( 0891-632 9441, mobile 158 8909 0408; www.tibetexploretour.com; 4-5 House, Namsel No 3, Doudi Rd)
Contact Jamphel.
TRAVEL AGENCY
( 634 5009; www.tibetnamchen.com)
At Barkhor Namchen Guest House. Contact Dhoko.
TRAVEL AGENCY
( 133 0898 1522; www.roadtotibet.com)
Contact Woeser Phel.
TRAVEL AGENCY
( ; 633 0489; www.shigatsetravels.com; Yak Hotel, 100 Beijing Donglu)
Top-end tours from a large agency that uses European trip managers.
TRAVEL AGENCY
( ; 136 5952 3997; www.cafespinn.com; 135 Beijing Donglu)
Contact Kong or Pazu.
TRAVEL AGENCY
( ; 139 0898 5060, 634 8144; www.tibethighlandtours.com; Zangyiyuan Lu)
Contact Tenzin or Dechen.
TRAVEL AGENCY
( 635 1657, mobile 136 2898 0074; www.tibetanguide.com)
Contact Mima Dhondup.
TRAVEL AGENCY
( 10-8660 8923; www.leohostel.com; 52 Dazhalan Xijie, Qianmen, Beijing)
Popular backpacker hostel that books tours through an agency in Tibet. Leo Hostel in Beijing in Review section if
it’s included this edition.
TRAVEL AGENCY
( 028-8322 2271; www.mixhostel.com; 23 Renjiawan, Xinghui Xilu, Chengdu)
Popular backpacker hostel. Mix Hostel in Chengdu in Review section if it’s included this edition.
TRAVEL AGENCY
( 971-816 3350, 134 3932 9243; www.snowliontours.com; Office 1212, Chenglin Mansion, 7 Dongdajie Lu, Xining)
Contact Wangden Tsering.
TRAVEL AGENCY
( 0971-6313 188, mobile 139 9712 4471; www.travelwildtibet.com; Qinghai International Business Centre, 12th fl, 37 Kunlun
Zhonglu, Xining)
Contact Tashi Phuntsok.
Lhasa
Barkhor Area
PILGRIM CIRCUIT
(Bakuo )
BUDDHIST, TEMPLE
(Budala Gong ; admission May-Oct ¥200, Nov-Apr ¥100 ; 9.30am-3pm before 1 May, 9am-3.30pm
after 1 May, interior chapels close 4.30pm)
BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
(Sela Si admission ¥50; 9am-5pm)
BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
HISTORIC SITE
MUSEUM
MASSAGE
ALTITUDE SICKNESS
Altitude sickness (or acute mountain sickness, AMS; Click here) is a life-threatening condition that you should
take seriously in Tibet. While medicines such as Diamox can help deal with mild symptoms, the number one rule
to follow is to rise in altitude gradually.
Most people experience only minor symptoms (headaches, breathlessness) when flying in to Lhasa
(3600m), as long as they take things easy for their first couple of days. The key is to ascend gradually,
preferably less than 400m per day. Spend up to a week in and around Lhasa before heading to higher elevations
like Nam-tso or Western Tibet, and don’t even think about heading straight to Everest Base Camp (5150m) from
Kathmandu (1300m): you need at least two or three nights along the way, in places such as Nyalam (3750m)
and Tingri (4250m).
RELIGIOUS
RELIGIOUS
RELIGIOUS
RELIGIOUS
RELIGIOUS
RELIGIOUS
RELIGIOUS
PRICE INDICATORS
The following price indicators are used in this chapter:
SLEEPING
$ less than ¥200
$$ ¥200 to ¥400
$$$ more than ¥400
EATING
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30 to ¥80
$$$ more than ¥80
HOTEL
(Balangxue Binguan ; 632 3829; 8 Beijing Donglu; dm ¥50, d/tr without bathroom ¥100/150, d with
bathroom ¥230; )
HOTEL
(Rema Gabu Binguan ; 634 6963; www.lhasabarkhor.com; 15 Ongto Shingka Lam; dm ¥40, d/tr incl
breakfast ¥180/260; )
GUESTHOUSE
(Bakuo Longqian Jiating Luguan ; 679 0125; www.tibetnamchen.com; 2 Barkhor North St; dm/d with
shared bathroom ¥40/100; )
HOTEL
HOTEL
(Ya Binguan ; 630 0195; 100 Beijing Donglu; dm ¥50, d ¥450-650, r VIP ¥880; )
HOTEL
HOTEL
BOUTIQUE HOTEL
(Zhuomala Gong ; 632 6533; www.shambhalaserai.com; 7 Jiri Erxiang, d incl breakfast ¥675-1015;
closed mid-Jan to end Apr; )
VISITING MONASTERIES & TEMPLES
Most monasteries and temples extend a warm welcome to foreign guests. Please maintain this good faith by
observing the following courtesies:
Always circumambulate monasteries, chapels and other religious objects clockwise, thus keeping shrines
and chortens (Tibetan stupas) to your right.
Don’t touch or remove anything on an altar and don’t take prayer flags or mani (prayer) stones.
Don’t take photos during a prayer meeting. At other times always ask permission to take a photo, especially
when using a flash. The larger monasteries charge photography fees. If a monk stops you from taking a
photograph there’s no point getting angry – you don’t know what pressures they may be under.
Don’t wear shorts or short skirts in a monastery, and take your hat off when you go into a chapel.
Don’t smoke in a monastery.
If you have a guide, try to ensure that he or she is Tibetan, as Chinese guides invariably know little about
Tibetan Buddhism or monastery history.
Be aware that women are generally not allowed in protector chapels (gonkhang).
INTERNATIONAL
TIBETAN
INTERNATIONAL
NEPALI
(Xinmanzhai Canting ; 634 2235; west of Barkhor Sq; dishes ¥20-45; 8am-10pm)
TEAHOUSE
CAFE
HANDICRAFTS
OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT
EMBASSIES
CONSULATE
INTERNET ACCESS
MEDICAL SERVICES
HOSPITAL
HOSPITAL
MONEY
BANK
(Zhongguo Yinhang ; Linkuo Xilu; 9am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4pm Sat & Sun)
BANK
(Zhongguo Yinhang ; Beijing Donglu; 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3.30pm Sat & Sun)
POST
POST OFFICE
POLICE
(PSB,, Lasa Shi Gong’anju ; 624 8154; 17 Linkuo Beilu; 9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm Mon-Fri)
TELEPHONE
TELEPHONE
AIR
TRAIN
(
; 7am-10pm)
(Huochepiao Daishouchu ; 19 Deji Zhonglu; commission ¥5; 8am-5.30pm)
THE WORLD’S HIGHEST TRAIN RIDE
Since starting in 2006 the Qinghai–Tibet Railway has been the world’s highest train ride. With track topping the
5072m Tanggu-la pass and with 80% of the Golmud to Lhasa stretch above 4000m, the railway is an impressive
piece of engineering. Its 160km of bridges and elevated track were built over permafrost, so sections of cooling
pipes were inserted to help keep the boggy ground frozen in summer. The cost? A cool US$4.1 billion, not
including the 2014 extension to Shigatse. While the Chinese are rightfully proud of this engineering marvel;
many Tibetans aren’t quite so sure. The railway brings cheaper (Chinese-made) goods and greater economic
growth to the Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR), but it also fuels Han migration, delivering one million
passengers to Lhasa every year. What the line does best is staple Tibet ever more firmly to the rest of China.
At the time of writing, foreigners needed a copy of their Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) permit to buy a ticket. On
board passengers have access to piped-in oxygen, although the cabins are not actually pressurised. Soft-
sleeper berths come with TVs, and speakers in each cabin make periodic travel announcements about sights
along the way. Schedules are designed to let passengers take in the best scenery during daylight hours.
Train departure times and fares to Lhasa (hard sleeper/soft sleeper, lower berth) from the following cities are
listed below, but are subject to change. Note that tickets can be very hard to get in July and August, when many
agencies impose a surcharge of around ¥200 to get tickets to Lhasa. Check www.chinatibettrain.com for the
latest schedules. Services run daily unless noted:
Beijing West (T27), ¥763/1186, 44 hours, departure 8.09pm
Chengdu (T22/23), ¥709/1101, 44 hours, every other day, 9pm
Chongqing (T222/3), ¥751/1166, 44 hours, every other day, 7.55pm
Guangzhou (T264/5), ¥919/1528, 56 hours, 12.19pm
Lanzhou (K917), ¥550/852, 27 hours, 12.05pm
Shanghai (T164/5), ¥842/1311, 48 hours, 7.52pm
Xining (K917, K9801), ¥511/794, 27 hours, 3.05pm
BICYCLE
BUS
TAXI
Ganden Monastery
BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
Nam-tso
(Namucuo; admission May-Oct ¥120, Nov-Apr ¥60 )
(Sangye Si)
( ; admission
¥40; 8am-5.30pm)
Yamdrok-Tso
BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
FORT
DON'T MISS
GYANTSE KUMBUM
BUDDHIST, CHORTEN
(Yadi Huayuan Jiudian ; 817 5555; www.yetihoteltibet.com; 11 Weiguo Lu; d incl breakfast ¥320; )
HOTEL
(Jianzang Fandian ; 817 3720; jianzanghotel@yahoo.com.cn; 14 Yingxiong Nanlu, q per bed ¥50-70, d ¥260 ;
)
NEPALI, INTERNATIONAL
TIBETAN
HOTEL
(Rikaze Gangjian Binguan ; 882 0777; 77 Zhufeng Lu; dm ¥50, d with bathroom ¥180; )
HOTEL
HOTEL
(Zhaxi Quta Dajiudian ; 883 0111; www.zxqthotel.com; 2 Xueqiang Lu; d/tr ¥780/980; )
TIBETAN
NEPALI
TIBETAN
(
; 139 8992 0067; Wordo Kitchen, Zhade Donglu; admission ¥20, for restaurant customers ¥15; 9.30am-
11pm)
INTERNATIONAL
( ; Bangjiakong Lu)
CARPETS
(Xizang Gangjian Ditan Chang ; www.tibetgang-gyencarpet.com; 9 Zhufeng Lu; 9am-1pm & 3-7pm
Mon-Sat)
BANK
POST OFFICE
POLICE
(PSB, Gong’anju ; 882 2240; Jilin Nanlu; 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat &
Sun)
Sakya
BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
HOTEL
TIBETAN
(admission ¥25)
GUESTHOUSE
HOTEL
(Xueyu Binguan 139 8992 3995; Baber; d with bathroom ¥220-280, d without bathroom ¥80; )
Tingri to Zhangmu
HOTEL
HOTEL
BANK
(Zhongguo Yinhang ; 9.30am-1pm & 3.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun)
BORDER CROSSING: GETTING TO NEPAL
Your transport will take you 8km down switchbacks to ( 10am-5.30pm, sometimes closed
1.30-3.30pm) next to the Friendship Bridge and Nepal border post at Kodari. If for some reason you don’t have
transport, orange and blue taxis run this stretch for ¥10 per person.
At ( 8.30am-4pm) in Kodari, you can get a visa for the same price as in Lhasa
(US$25/40/100 for a 15-/30-/90-day visa, or the equivalent in rupees). If you don’t have a passport photo you’ll
be charged an extra US$5. Nepal is 2¼ hours behind Chinese time.
There are four daily buses to Kathmandu – the last bus at 1.30pm is express – or take a bus to Barabise (three
hours, last bus 5pm) and change. The easier option is to share a private vehicle with other travellers (Rs 4500
per car, or Rs 1500 per seat; four hours). You’ll struggle to find a driver after 5pm.
Lhatse to Kailash
Mt Kailash
(PSB,, Gong’anju )
(Chaosheng Binguan 298 0833; dm ¥60)
(Lasa Shengdi Kangsang Luguan 139 8907 0818; d
¥70-80) (Ninda Dronkhang,, Riyue Binguan 260 7102; q per bed ¥60-70 )
WORTH A TRIP
THE LOST KINGDOM OF GUGE
One worthwhile detour from Darchen is to the surreal ruins of the Guge Kingdom at (Guge Gucheng;
joint admission ticket with Tholing ¥200, optional guide per person ¥10). The ruins, which seem to grow like a
honeycomb out of the barren hills, were once the centre of one of Tibet’s most prosperous kingdoms. The
tunnels and caves are great fun to explore and the chapels offer superb examples of Kashmiri-influenced mural
art. A trip here will add three days to your itinerary, but is worth it to see some outstanding scenery and one of
Asia’s little-known wonders.
From Darchen it’s a day’s drive to Zanda (Zhada), the nearest town to Tsaparang (18km away), and home to
spectacular Tholing Monastery.
Lake Manasarovar