5/2/2018 JSD Supply P320 Insert Completion – 80 Percent Building

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ON: MAY 2, 2018 | IN: UNCATEGORIZED | TAGGED: 80%, JSD SUPPLY,
P320 | WITH: 0 COMMENTS

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For anyone thinking about undertaking the Sig P320 80% I wanted
to document the required tools and and steps required to JSD Supply P320 Insert
complete the JSD Supply 80% insert. The insert and jig to Completion
complete are available directly from JSD as well as F &F Firearms.

https://jsdsupply.com/collections/sig-sauer/products/80-p320- RECENT COMMENTS

compatible-insert-mup-1

https://fandf rearms.com/ ARCHIVES

May 2018
Tools Needed:
-JSD Jig
-Deadblow Hammer or mallet CATEGORIES
-Hacksaw
-Drill Bits: 9mm, 3mm, #22, #39, #40, 7/32 (these should come Uncategorized

with the jig)

-Misc les (small at le and needle le at a minimum)
META
-Dremel with small diamond tip and cutoff wheels
-Benchvise (not required but makes it much easier) Log in
-Drill Press (not required but makes it much easier) Entries RSS
Comments RSS
Here is how the JSD P320 80% insert starts: WordPress.org

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5/2/2018 JSD Supply P320 Insert Completion – 80 Percent Building

I will try and go step by step to keep the process simple. You can
click on any of the pictures to enlarge them for a better view.

1. Insert 80% insert into the Jig. Make sure that the insert is sitting
below the tabs on the jig. These tabs make sure that the insert
stays put during the drilling and bending operations.

2. Pre-bend the tab down so that they’re started before inserting

the top half of the jig. According to JSD this step may not be
required, but it was simple and could save a lot of frustration or
galling of the jig later. One end of the upper portion of the jig is
beveled to start the rails bending. A few light taps with the
hammer is all it takes.

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3. Insert the top half of the jig and then either hammer it down
until the rails are bent as far as they will go, or I found that if you
turn the jig sideways you can use the vice to actually compress the
two jig pieces together and bend the tabs. Using the vice or a
hydraulic press was by far the easiest and most controlled way of
bending the rails. One thing I noticed though is that the rails do not
bend completely, granted the factory sig P320 inserts don’t appear
to have the rails exactly horizontal either. After completing a
couple of frames different ways, I found that tapping the rails
down so that just sit above the jig yielded better results in the nal

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product, ie less play in the slide. A couple of light taps with a brass
hammer or bunch is all it takes.

4. After the rails are bent, there will be excess length in the rails
that needs to be trimmed. To trim the rails, a hacksaw worked
really well. Utilizing the top of the jig as the guide you simply cut
down until the excess part of the tabs is removed, careful to cut
evenly to avoid cutting down into the jig. Other options for cutting
were brainstormed such as dremel with cutoff wheel, or even
using les, but it seemed like both of those options would likely

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result in jig damage. The hacksaw worked really well and took all of
5 minutes to complete.

5. After the rails are trimmed using the jig, you should measure the
rail width against the frame. I found that the after cutting the jig
left the rails slightly oversized still (likely due to the hacksaw not
cutting clean straight down). Using a at le I carefully took
additional material off the rails until the rail width is .002″ or so
smaller than the slide. You will need to be careful here though and
make sure equal amounts of materials are taken off each side in
order to keep the slide centered, and not cause issues with the
ejector. After the rails are led to the correct width, all rail edges
should be broke to remove any sharp edges. That includes the top,
bottom, front, and back. A few light strokes with a ne at le or
stone should be suf cient. Please see below for a picture of a
factory Sig P320 insert to see how the rails look from the factory.
The factory insert is on the left, the 80% insert is on the right.
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6. Drill the holes. As you can see in the jig pictures, the holes are all
clearly marked with the required bit size. There were a total of 9
holes to drill and using a drill press took about 10 minutes. Take
note that two of the #40 holes do not go all the way through. They
eventually will be combined into a single notch for the Takedown
Safey Lever to go through. All other holes go through both sides. If
using a drill press you can drill the holes through from one side.

7. The takedown safety lever notch needs to be completed. In

order to do this you cut out the area between the two #40 holes
noted earlier. I used a Dremel with a diamond bit to cut this piece
out. After using the Dremel to knock out the small piece of metal
between the #40 holes, I used a small needle le to clean up the
slot.

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8. It is recommended that after the holes are drilled, you go back

over the holes with a at le to remove burrs which may cause
dif culty with installation of the FCU components. I experienced
that there were large burrs left after drilling even using brand new
sharp bits. The frame should feel at and smooth around the holes
after you le and clean them up. If there are burrs on the outside of
the insert, it will be dif cult to insert in the grip module.

9.Trigger Pocket cut: The 7/32″ hole drilled on the right side of the
insert will need to be cut to allow for passage of the trigger
through it. The jig shows this required notch and can be used as a
guide. To cut, I used a hacksaw (carefully since you are only cutting
the notch on one side, the right side) and then used a le to get it to
the nal dimensions. Due to space constraints a needle le, or
small triangle le will likely be needed.

As a reminder again, ONLY CUT THE RIGHT SIDE. If you cut both
sides you will have an issue with the slide catch.

10. If using gen 2, post-recall parts, you will need to cut off the tab
in front of the right rear rail.

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To tell if you have post upgrade parts, you can look at the Safety
Lever. You have pre-upgrade parts if it looks like this:

[B]Pre-recall:[/B]

[B]Post-recall:[/B]

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I’m sure there are other indicators, but these are the ways that I
found to identify the difference.

And that’s it folks. After completion you can assemble the re

control unit, and assemble the grip and slide.

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