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    Build a table for your Television.

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    Build a table for your Television.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    37 views8 pages

    Arts and Crafts TV Table Plan

    Uploaded by

    troywoods480
    Build a table for your Television.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    of 8
    he transformation of large screen televisions from 350-pound, 3-deep behemoths to slim, lightweight flat panels makes them easier than ever to fitinto any home decor. Keeping up with this change is this handsome table which sheds light on the latest approach to home entertainment. Accommodating flat screen TVs up to 42” wide, its thoughtful design provides ‘open storage for a surround sound receiver, DVD player, and orite furniture style with one of tod center-channel speaker. Two drawers below offer ample DVD storage while the back panel conceals the wall outlet and tangle of cords and cables. ying true to the Arts & Crafts aesthetic, lused quartersawn oak for this project The dark stain allowed me t economize by substituting red oak for the more expensive traditional white oak. That said, the quartersawn lumber can present a dilemma when making legs: The AS tee highly prized ray pattern of the face grain ends up contrasting abruptly with the flatsawn edge grain. To fix the problem, I aminated the leg assemblies so quartersawn grain appears or all leg faces. | also glued up each leg to create through mortises without drilling and chisel work. Enjoy these techniques, and, of course, the finished project. Note: For the items used to make this project, see the Gonvenience- Plus Buying Guide on page 27. Figure 1: TV Table Exploded View _ 6" chamfer on bottom edges 15" fullextension vundersmount drawer slide Figure 2: Exploded End and Leg Assembly ae to ¥e" chamfer \ a bat ea Yx Phx PA" tenon Note: Leg sides, core, and faces initially ut oversized. Lamination is cut to final length after assembly. See instructions, YO side “ar core sf legface parts With the mortise spacers snugly in place and the parts aligned with cauls, glue and clamp the side/core blanks. \Tip Alert | When buying red oak plywood, buy plain-sliced veneer. Its grain pattern is more pleasing than rotary-sliced veneer on the cheaper grades of plywood. { / Laminate the legs i Note: As‘shown in Figure 2, each leg consists of two ¥'-thick sides, three 4’-thick core parts of different lengths, and two K-thick faces. I cut all of these pieces longer at first, except for the 9%" middle core. During the leg glue-ups, | used 6"- and 73". long spacers to separate the core pieces. These I tinted red. After the glue dried, knocked them out of the resulting mortise openings. 11 For each laminated leg (A), cut %4"-thick stock for two sides and a core to 24x 31" (3" longer than the leg’s finished dimension). Select the parts with the best quartersawn figure for the sides. Then group two sides and a core part for each leg. Mark the top ends of each group with the location (LF and RF for left and right front and LR and RR for left and right rear) for proper placement later. 2 Cut the core parts for each leg to the dimensions in Figure 2. Cut the two mortise spacers from the core pieces. To keep the spacers from adhering to the sides during the glue-up, wrap the ends with plastic packaging tape. Then apply glue to both, / faces of the remaining coré | Segments (not the spacers) and — glue up the legs (PHoto A). 3 With the glue dry, tap out the mortise spacers using a mallet and scrapwood block. Then scrape away any excess glue, and joint one edge of each leg (A) Now plane the opposite edge to make each leg blank 2" wide. 4 Cut four% x 2% x 31" face blanks, and resaw each one in half, Plane each half to %4" thick to make eight leg faces. Then glue and clamp the faces to the edges of the leg blanks, covering the mortises, as shown in Photo B and where shown in Figure 2. With the glue dry, drill 14" holes through the faces of legs (A), centered in the mortises. Then rout the faces to open the mortises as shown in Photo C, Square the corners of the openings with a chisel, and pare away any excess glue on the inside of the Laminated leg blank Using cauls, glue and clamp the ‘A"-thick leg faces to the side/core blanks, centering the faces on the blanks. Insert the %" flush-trim bit into the 4" holes, and rout the mortise openings in the leg faces. mortise. Now flush-trim the protruding leg face edges. 6 Trim the top of each leg (A) ¥" from the top edge of the upper mortise. Transfer the leg location mark to the top of the leg. Then trim the bottom of each leg to the finished length of 28°. Now chuck a 45° chamfer bit into your handheld router, and rout chamfers along the edges and bottom end of each leg. Finish-sand the legs to 220 grit. Make the rails, spindles, spacers, and corbels 1 From 1"thick stock, cut the upper rails (B) and lower rails (C) to the sizes in the Cut List. ‘Then form the tenons at your Adhere the template corbel to a rough-cut corbel, and flush-trim the rough edges in the grain’s direction. tablesaw where dimensioned on Figure 2. You can cut the tenons in several passes with a dado blade, positioning the rip fence as astop and guiding the workpiece with the miter gauge, or use a tenon jig. Should your tenons be too thick for the mortises, touch them up with,a shoulder - plane or sanding block. Now ~ rout‘" chamfers on the tenon ends, using a handheld trim router. Here, chamfer the tenon corners first to avoid tear-out. 2 With the dado blade in your tablesaw, form a centered %" groove '" deep in the bottom edge of each upper rail (B) and in the top edge of each lower rail (C). Finish-sand the rails. Ga Glue and clamp the cases to the sides, using blocks to position them flush with the rails’ top and bottom edges. 1" spacers "a Tip three spindles into the rail grooves on each side of the center spacers. Push the spindles in place, gluing in spacers between them. 3 Cut the spindles (D) to size, checking the fit in the rail grooves. Finish-sand the spindles. 4 To make the spacer blanks (E), cut four’ x 1% « 12" boards. Chuck a chamfer bit into your table-mounted router and rout 44" chamfers along the edges of gach board. Then rip %4’-wite strips fromveach chamfersd--— ~* edge. Finish-sand the blanks. Now crosscut five 1"-long spacers from each blank, and set aside the remaining pieces. The remaining eight spacers are cut to final length from these pieces during assembly. 5 For the corbels (F), cut four blanks from 1” stock to the size shown on the Cut List. Photocopy the Corbel Pattern on page 73 and adhere it to one blank with spray adhesive. Cut the 45° angle at the bottom of the corbel on your tablesaw or mitersaw. Bandsaw and sand the curve to the pattern line, Then use this corbel as a template-to- trace the outline ‘on the remaining blanks: Cut ~~ the bottom angle on each Tip Alert To prevent glue squeeze-out along the corbel edges, cut e"- deep stopped saw kerfs in the back edge of each corbel %" from the faces and" from the ends. Place the bands against the cases and above the legs, and mark their finished lengths. Figure 3: Cases Exploded View 540" shank hole ‘countersunk ‘on bottom face of panel ox!" slots allow for face of panel wood movement. re = : 81%" a8 as De #20 biscuit: i= f gente FH, screws, Fit bands after attaching cases to left assemblies. Install drawer kseoware Pir infrom front sag. Slot Detail Note: Upper case is glued to ‘upper rails (B); lower case is glued to lower rails (C). Figure 4: Back Part View ‘Counterbore screw holes for #8 « 34" FH. screws. blank as before and bandsaw the blanks just outside the traced line, Now template-rout the curve on each rough-cut corbe] as shown in Photo D. 6 Rout %" chamfers along the corbel edges, where shown on the Corbel Pattern. Finish-sand the corbels. Put together the leg assemblies 1 Spread glue on the upper rail (B) and lower rail (C) tenons and slide them into the leg (A) mortises. Make sure the legs are in the correct orientation and that the best face of each rail faces out. Clamp the assemblies. Adhere guide blocks to the back aligned with the cord- opening layout lines. Flip over the back and, with the guide bearing on the guide blocks, Soskitrimthecort openirigs: 2 Retrieve the 1"-long spacers cut from the spacer blanks (E). Mark the position of the center spacer on masking tape applied to the upper and lower rails (B, C). The spacers are centered between the legs (A). Glue and clamp the center spacers in place. Now install the spindles (D] and remaining 1” spacers, as shown in Photo E. With all the spindles in place, measure the distance between each front and back spindle (D) and the legs (A). Cut spacers to fit from the spacer-blank cutoffs and glue them in place. 4 Glue and clamp the corbels (F) to the legs (A), flush at the top and centered. Add the cases and cut the back 1 Before cutting the case parts to size, check the dimension between the legs. (A) onthe log »| 4" countebor, ass he cases must fit -‘pétweefi the legs. Then from ¥4" plywood, cut the tops and bottoms (G), upper ends (H), upper divider (I), and lower ends and divider (J) to size. Drill the %a" countersunk shank holes, and then rout the Yao x Ys" slots in the upper top only (Figure 3 Slot Detail) 2 Cut the upper end bands (K) to size and glue, and clamp them to the front edges of the upper ends (H). Then plunge slots for #20 biscuits in the case parts, where shown on Figure 3. Finish-sand the case parts. Now ilue, biscuit, and clamp the cases. Apply glue to the inside faces of the upper rails (B) and lower rails (C), and clamp the cases in place, as shown in Photo F. 4 Cut the long bands (1), upper divider bands (M), and lower divider bands (N) 1" longer than listed, Mark the CN Oe eee ed iar Cert Reed ey eae nr end Dee ck Rene Figure 5: Drawer Exploded View Center handle and pull on front. ¥%s" hole with 1" machine screw Overall di 178" wx sions: dx64" h Size front »4" smaller than opening. 6x1" FH. screw Note: For the customized drawer box parts here, see the sidebar and ‘Convenience. Plus Buying Guide. Slide Notch and Counterbore Detail A owe finished length of the long bands, as shown in Photo G. 5 Transfer the biscuit slot locations from the cases to the long bands (L) and plunge biscuit slots in the bands. Then dry-fit the bands in place, and measure the final lengths of the upper and lower divider bands (M4, N). Cut the divider bands 2° hole, Ys" deep counterbored from outside of drawer to length. Transfer the biscuit slot locations from the cases to the divider bands and plunge the slots. Now glue, biscuit, and clamp the bands to the cases. 6 Cutthe cleats (0) to size, and glue and clamp them to the legs (A) between the upper and lower cases, flush with the edges of the rear long bands (L). With the drawer slides "%" back from the lower case front, drill pilot holes in the sides and add the screws. 7 Check the Cut List dimensions of the back (P) with its placement, and cut the part to size. Lay out the cord openings, where indicated on Figure 4. Drill a" hole inside the layout lines, and rough-cut the openings with a jigsayy, staying inside the lines, Position guide biocks, show: Photo H, and flush- {Fim the openings to finished size, as shown in Photo I. 8 Drill countersunk screw- shank holes through the back (P), where shown on Figure 4. Finish-sand the back. Assemble the drawers and build the top 1 Finish-sand the dovetailed drawer-box parts. (See the sidebar on page 25 for information on purchasing ready-to-assemble dovetailed drawer boxes.) If you choose to make the drawer boxes, see Figure 5 for the dimensions, keeping in mind that your drawer opening may vary slightly. Now, apply glue to the drawer-bottom grooves and the dovetail sockets (or alternative drawer joints) and clamp the boxes. Check for square by measuring the box diagonals. (Equal diagonals indicate a square box.) Place the boxes on a flat surface to dry. 2 With the glue dry, cut notches (1 used my trim router and flush-trim bit) and drill holes in the drawer-box backs for the under-mount drawer, / slides, where dimensioned on Figure § and following. the hardware instructions. 3 Measure the drawer openings in the lower case and cut the drawer fronts (Q) to size. The fronts should be %" less in each dimension than the drawer openings. (I cut the fronts from a single board so the grain With double-faced tape and ¥%s" spacers, center and stick the drawer front to the box. Secure with screws. reads continuously across both.) Finish-sand the drawer fronts. 4 From 1"-thick stock, glue up an oversized blank for the top (R). With the glue dry, sand the top smooth and rout 4" chamfers along the bottom ends and edges. Center the top on the base and clamp ,,| ~itin place. Then mark the — locations of the screw holes along the front of the upper case and the centers of the slots along the back on the bottom face of the top with an awl, Now remove the top and drill pilot holes for #8 screws at the marks. Finish-sand the top. With the back clamped in place and using the shank holes as guides, drill pilot holes into the upper and lower cases and cleats and drive the screws, TV Table Cut List | Part [Thickness | Width Length | Qty. | Mat’ To reduce the chance of cupping, | | End accemblies | | stain and finish both surfaces of | [ar | Legs (including side core, | F aera RS the top (R). | and face pieces) | es | B Upper rail i TH 18%" [2 QRO- © | Lower rail ay (18%" [2 GRO Finish and final assembly DE SrIiaes Eades | esa 12 CR 1 inspect al parts and spacer is 7 |aa" [a [ano assemblies and finish-sand where | 5 Coveels Ese ssemre ees OC) needed. (I stained all the oak parts with a one-to-one mixture of Varathane Premium Wood Stain colors golden mahogany and red mahogany. You'll need 32 Tops and bottoms 6 Fea H__| Upper ends t i Ri Upper divider | Lower ends and divider By" [Upper end bands [ee ‘ounces of the stain mixture for L* | Long bands 1 this project. The drawer boxes ‘M*_| Upper divider bands Pe received only a clear finish.) NN* | Lower divider bands a With the stain dry, I applied two w coats of semi-gloss polyurethane, 367" | 20" ROP lightly sanding with 220-grit Drawers and Top | sandpaper between coats Q__ | Drewerfronts %e Was [a7 [2 [ORO 2 Mount the drawer-slide locking LR*_| Tor 7 20" |48" 1__|QRO devices in the drawer bottom “Indicates parts that are intially cut oversized, See instructions. recesses, as {ndicated on the -28 spacers are cut to size from blanks. manufacturer's instruetions. Then /Aseney Smart omtes Sete) Bie ee mount thefull-exterision slides in’ jaraware/Supplies: (8) WBC" flathead screws; (20) #8 x24" flathead scrows; ie drawer case (Photo). Now (¢) #8x 1%" panhead Screws; (4) #8 flat washers for attaching top to upper case. slide the drawer boxes onto the slides until the hooks at the Convenience-PLUS BUYING GUIDE rear of the slides engage the C1. | Whiteside Spiral Flush-trim Down Cut Bit, #12766 | $29.99 holes in the drawer box backs 4" 0, CA" SH) | and the drawer-slide locking 2, _| Porter-Cable Plate Joining Biscuits, #17164 | $12.99 devices click into place. | #20,Tube/100 rt: | 3 Install the drawer pulls on the — 3. _| Blum Tandem Under-Mount, Full-Extension, #101352 | $35.99 drawer fronts (Q). Then position DrawecSiides/ 15%, aly. 2 palr achpalr the drawer fronts onthe drawer | G4_| ans @ crafts Aged Bronze Pul, 3" Bore, qty.2 | saoseis | $21.99 a eects [os | SESgeMeeBonemereirnaoie, | wesa® | 600m to the boxes. Now drill pilot and Chas cColntersun kebenke holes through 06. |**Custom Hardwood Dovetailed Drawers, 6%" | #140717 | $0.80/inch the drawer boxes and into the (6.375") high x 1734" (17.50") wide x 15" (15.00" drawer fronts. Secure the |__| deep, 4" bottom reveal, qty. 2 pea fronts to the boxes with 157, _| Varathane Premium Wood Stain, Golden 150007 | $9.99, #8 x 1" flathead wood screws. Manogainyazs Late | 4 Position the top (R) on the 38. | Varathane Premium Wood Stain, 150413 | $9.99 base, and fasten it to the upper ee Maegenya2e 2 Lat dead eit | case with #8 x 114" flathead 29. | Varathane interior Polyurethane Oil Finish, 150453 | $14.99 wood screws at the front and Seige | 48

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