Add a Boston Rocker to your Colonial collection. This simplified rocker is one of the easiest chairs to build in your shop vw RQ BR By Frank Hegemeyer oes s-; JR OSTON ROCKERS have been rocking i people for well over 100 years and still offer the comfort of a well designed chair having a pleasing simplicity of line that goes well with modern or traditional fur- mishings. This one has been purposely sim- ‘plified in certain details, mainly the seat ‘and the back rail, or headrest, which in the ‘originals had deeply rolled edges. Dimensions given in the detail drawings are actual sizes of the parts, but those in the material list are oversize to allow for cutting and fitting. Note in Fig. 2 that the seat is made the required width by edge- gluing three pieces, three dowels being used in each joint. It is important that the boards be arranged for gluing with the heart and sap faces alternating. After the glue is dry plane the piece to a uniform thickness ‘of 1% in., working both sides. Bring to the width dimensions given in Fig. 3, then lay out the locations of the holes taking the leg tenons as in Fig. 2. 1. SETUP for drilling leg holes in chair seat at Now note especially the legends on Figs. compound angles. Methed saves hours of layout time 2 and 3, and also the dotted lines referred to as swing lines. Note especially how these lines are positioned on both drawings, and that the abbreviations R.T. and L.T. mean right tilt and left tilt respectively. Now look at the setup in Fig. 1 and you'll see how all this works out in locating and drill- ing the holes for the legs at the proper angles. You need an auxiliary drilling table which is‘ cut from_%4-in. stock, measuring about 8-in, wide-and-30-in- long. -A’ line is-~ scribed, along the center line of the table to serve as an alignment line to which the swing lines are set. Now clamp the auxil- iary table to the regular drill-press table ae atl we te = = a FRONT THE HOLES IW ne a Dees FIG. 3 ARE DECEMBER 1961 3) u 155 74" From, THE SIDES OF4. SETUP for drilling holes in seat for back posts and spindles. Compare with Fig. 1 and note similarity 4h" HOLES, 56" DEEP AT 8° FRONT TILT 7. RECESSING of chair seat can be done with hand scraper, using wide gouge for deepest cuts at center with the alignment line directly below the center of the bit. For a left tilt the free end of the auxiliary table extends to the left; for a right tilt, to the right, the drill- press table being tilted to 9 degrees and 18 degrees right and left as in Fig. 2. This method greatly simplifies the drilling of the holes at compound angles. In the actual drilling you simply clamp the chair seat to the auixiliary table with the swing line directly under the center of the bit and in alignment with the center line on the auxiliary table as in Fig. 1. Proceed in the same fashion when laying off and drilling the holes for the arm posts and spindles, Fig. 3. Note that these holes are drilled clear through while those for the legs are drilled only to a depth of % in. Use the same general procedure when drilling the holes for the back, Figs. 4 and 5, except arrange the auxiliary table for an 8-degree front tilt by nailing a cleat to the rear endas in Fig. 15, the lower detail. These holes are drilled clear through. Next step is 14" x 19%" LONG ROLLED SEAT EDGE 8. SEAT EDGING js doweled and glued in place. Use three bar clamps and be sure part is uniformly seatedBi is a 10. MAKE TRIAL ossembly of all parts, beginning with legs ond rungs. Top parts in place with soft mallet INSERT SPINDLES IN RACK THUS _ 13. BACK SPINDLES ore bent in this jig which is detailed in Fig. tlt Te. 11. TRIAL ASSEMBLY of arms, posts and spindles is necessary to catch any inaccuracies before gluing to recess the seat top as in Figs. 6 and 7 and fit the rolled seat edge as in Figs. 6 and 8. To make the roll you start with a 2-in. square and cut a rabbet on one corner as in the end view, Fig. 6. A pine filler strip is fitted in the rabbet and held with screws driven in the waste just beyond the cutoff point at each end. After the stock is turned into round and the waste cut off at each end, the filler strip is removed. Next-you cut the hack; rail and jarms-to, contour back rail i8 sawed to curvature from solid stock as in Fig. 15 and the holes for the posts and spindles are drilled as detailed. Drill four holes in each of the arms for post and spindles and note especially how the 12. Spindles should be of selected, straight-grained stock and should be soaked overnight in water before bending. Cut to length before bending im details A and H in Fig. 9. Theconcavity is formed in the small end of each arm for the post, Fig. 9, detail H. Next you turn the legs, C and D, Fig. 9, from 134-in. squares. Slot one end of each leg to take the rocker and fit a plywood pad as in detail C to take the lathe center. This done you continue making the turnings for arm and back posts and spindles, parts I through N in Fig. 9. The long back spindles are only tapered and can be made by hand from %-in. dowels, All others must be turned in the lathe. You'll need a steady {Cotinued to. page 204) | |, — Nate 12a" 4" AUXILIARY TABLE 14. BENT SPINDLES must be correctly positioned be- fore gluing fin place. Once spindles have been cor- rectly located make registering marks on the parts 16. ROCKERS must be a snug fit in slots before being glued and pinned in place. Some hand fitting with 1 rasp may be necessary here. Note use of soft malletAdd a Boston Rocker (Continued from page 159) rest to prevent whipping of the long back posts when turning. Finally, cut the rockers to contour from 34-in. stock. Assemble a spindle-bending jig, or rack, as in Fig. 12 for bending the back spindles as in Fig. 13. Place the spindles in a wash boiler or any other suitable receptacle and add enough water to cover them com- pletely. Allow to soak overnight. Then bring the water to a rolling boil and continue for fifteen or twenty minutes. Remove spindles from the water immedi- ately and slide each into the bending jig as in Fig. 13. Allow to dry before removing from the jig. Final Sanding Now sand all parts, except the turnings which should be sanded while still in the lathe, to finish smoothness. Round all ex- posed edges slightly and then make a trial assembly, beginning with the legs and rungs and proceeding as in Figs. 11, 14 and 16. To make sure that you get the bent back spindles in the correct positions when mak- ing the final assembly saw a strip from 3g-in. stock to the same curvature as that of the back rail and drill a pattern of slightly oversize holes through the strip, the. holes; on-the same centers as-those in| ‘the back rail. Set the back spindles and posts in place as in Fig. 14 and place the strip over the ends. Locate the strip at the same height as the bottom edge of the back rail in the finished chair. Now, using a yardstick or any suitable straightedge, you can adjust each spindle so that the bends are in the correct position. Once they are positioned, make registering marks on each spindle and on the seat, also number the spindles and posts. This will enable you to return them to position when making the final assembly with glue in the joints. You'll undoubtedly have to do some hand fitting of parts in the trial assembly in order to make sure they will all fit together prop- erly when you make the final assembly. Note in Fig. 9 that the arm-rest posts, I, are slotted for wedges and that the arms are doweled to the back posts, also that the rockers are pinned to the legs. Spread glue in the holes and tap the parts into place, using a soft hammer or mallet as in Figs. 10 and 16. What kind of wood to use? You have a choice of maple, birch and cherry. The first two can be stained a brown or ruddy maple color and cherry can be finished in the natural color with a clear finishing mate- rial. Or the chair can be painted a dull black or a medium red. Rub the final coat down with fine steel wool. kK