Bupaya pagoda

Gilded pagoda on the banks of the Irrawaddy river

Name: Bupaya pagoda, Buphaya pagoda, Bu Phaya, Bupaya phaya
Date300
King Pyusawhti
LocationNorth West corner of walled old Bagan, on the banks of the Irrawaddy river
Style: Pyu style
Indian influence

Although not one of Bagan’s most impressive monuments, the Bupaya pagoda is an attractive
monument because of its age and its location on the banks of the Irrawaddy river. The gilded
pagoda is built in Pyu style, which is a descendant from the Indian style stupa.

The Bupaya Pagoda is one of the earliest monuments on the Bagan plains, although it is not
known with certainty when exactly it was build. According to a sign at the entrance the
pagoda dates back to the year 300. Judging from the style of the pagoda, it seems likely that
it dates from the 9th century, when the city of Bagan was founded or the 11th century, when
the city walls were build.

The legend of the Bupaya Pagoda

The Bupaya pagoda is believed to be build by King Pyusawhti, who ruled Bagan during the end
of the 3rd century. According to local legend Pyusawhti, before he was King, managed to free
the Bagan Kingdom of five nuisances, one of which was the infestation of the Irrawaddy river
banks by the bu, a kind of gourd plant.

As a reward he was given the hand of the King’s daughter. It is said that when Pyusawhti
became King, he build the pagoda at the spot where the bu plant was eradicated. Buddhist
relics were enshrined in the pagoda. With bu meaning gourd and phaya meaning pagoda,
Bupaya Pahto literally means pagoda shaped like a gourd. The structure is in the shape of a
bulbous dome and somewhat resembles the fruit of a gourd plant.

The cylindrical stupa sits on top of a number of terraces, that looks like a fortress like structure
when viewed from the river. On top is a gilded hti, a finial shaped as an umbrella found on
almost all Burmese temples.

Entrance gate to the Bupaya temple grounds

Reconstruction after the 1975 earthquake
During the 1975 earthquake the original brick structure broke up and fell into the river. The
pagoda standing today is a reconstruction of the original. Whereas the original was made of
brick, the new one is a concrete structure and has been completely gilded.

The temple grounds entrance is guarded by two white and gold Chinthes, Burmese
mythological lions. On the grounds are also a number of very ornate pavilions.

The busy area around the temple is full of market stalls, ox carts and taxis. On the river banks
are boats that can be chartered for a cruise along the Irrawaddy river.

Dhammayangyi temple
Largest temple on the plains of Bagan
NameDhammayangyi temple, Dhammayangyi pahto, Dhammayan-Gyi
Date1170
KingNarathu
LocationAbout 1 kilometer South East of the old Bagan walls
StyleLate period
One storey
Nearby Sulamani, Shwesanda
The Dhammayangyi is the largest temple on the plains of Bagan. From a distance it resembles
the early step pyramids of Egypt.

The enormous structure that was never completed consists of a massive square base topped
by six receding terraces.

King Narathu, builder of the temple

The Dhammayangyi temple was build by King Narathu in 1170. Narathu became King of Bagan
after murdering his father and his brother, who was next in line to become King. Narathu was
probably worried about bad karma and build to massive temple to gain merit and to
compensate for murdering his father and brother.

The King was later murdered himself. There are several stories going around about the death
of Narathu. One storey goes that the King was murdered by a group of Indians sent by the
King of Pateikkaya. The murder was in revenge for the killing of one of Narathu’s wives, who
was a Princess of Pateikkaya. Another is that Narathu was killed by invaders from Sri Lanka.

Construction debris in the temple’s interior

The Dhammayangyi temple was never fully completed. Construction was probably halted
right after the death of the King. Much of the temple’s interior was filled with construction
debris, including three of the four sanctums in the inner core and and most of the two
corridors that run around the temple’s central core.

It is possible that the temple’s interior was intentionally filled with debris by resentful workers
because of Narathu’s very harsh rule or possibly to prevent the ghost of King Narathu from
leaving the temple.

The brick work of the Dhammayangyi was done with great precision. The storey goes that
King Narathu had the laborers killed or their hands chopped off if the work was not done
perfectly.

Buddha images inside the Dhammayangyi

Structure of the Dhammayangyi
The sides at the base of the structure are almost 78 meters long, while the central core of the
temple measures 25 meters long. There are four entrances that each contain a seated Buddha
image on a pedestal, the main entrance is the Eastern one. The Western sanctum contains
images of the Gautama Buddha and the future Maitreya Buddha, side by side.

The sikhara, a tower like structure originating from North India, that was once on top of the
Dhammayangyi has collapsed. The temple grounds are surrounded by a wall with huge arched
gates that lead to the pagoda. To prevent further deterioration the terraces of the temple are
closed to the public.

Ananda pagoda, Ananda pahto, Ananda phaya

Date: 1090 - 1105
King: Kyanzittha
Location: Just East of old Bagan city wall
Style: End of early Bagan period
Mon & North Indian influence
Single storey structure
Nearby: Thatbyinnyu temple

The Ananda temple is one of Bagan’s best known and most beautiful temples. It was one of
the first great temples to be build in Bagan and is well preserved. The temple is found near
the Tharabar gate, the only gate remaining of the original 12 in the old Bagan city walls.

The Ananda Pagoda, also named Ananda Pahto and Ananda Phaya is a single storey structure
built towards the end of the early Bagan period. The architectural style shows Mon and North
Indian influence.

The temple’s most distinctive feature is the gilded sikhara, the tower like spire on top of the
pagoda. The reflection of the gilded sikhara is visible from miles away over the Bagan plains.
After dark the Ananda Pagoda is lit up by spotlights creating a mystical atmosphere.

The Ananda was damaged during the 1975 earthquake, and has been extensively restored
since then.

Legend of the Ananda temple

A local legend tells the story of the founding of the Ananda temple. Towards the end of the
11th century eight monks from India visited Bagan. They were granted an audience by King
Kyanzittha.

The monks told the King about a legendary cave temple in the Himalaya mountains and
created a vision for the King to see the temple and the snowy landscape. The story and vision
left the King very impressed and he decided to replicate the temple in Bagan. It is said that
after the Ananda temple was completed, the King had the architects executed, to make sure
anything like it could never be build again.
Architecture of the Ananda
The Ananda is an elegant, symmetrical structure with the layout of a Greek cross. One of the
most noticeable and beautiful features is the gilded top called sikhara, that is placed on the
center of the building. This tower like structure originates from North India and shows Indian
influence in the architectural style of the Ananda.

The sikhara contains five niches on all sides placed over each other, each niche containing a
Buddha image. On top of that is a hti, a spire ornament in the shape of an umbrella. The
sikhara and hti were gilded in 1990 to mark the start of Ananda’s construction 9 centuries
earlier. Total height of the structure including the hti is about 51 meters.

On top of the square central block are six receding terraces. Each corner of the second terrace
contains a smaller golden sikhara. The terraces contain numerous Chinthes, the mythological
Burmese lions that guard Buddhist temples all across Burma.

In the center of the whitewashed structure is a square room containing four large standing
Buddha images. A corridor runs around the central room, the walls of which contain 3 rows
of niches that enshrine Buddha images in different poses. About 80 large sandstone reliefs
show scenes from the life of the Gautama Buddha some 2,500 years ago.
On the grounds of the Ananda temple is a monastery building named Ananda Oak Kyaung or
Ananda brick monastery. The small monastery was built in 1137, its walls contain 18th century
murals depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha. The temple grounds are surrounded by
a high wall, in which four large gates topped with a stupa provide access to the grounds.

The four 9½ meter tall standing Buddha images

In the center of the Ananda Pagoda is a large square room where four magnificent standing
Buddha images are placed in arched recesses. The teak wooden 9½ meters tall gilded images
represent the four previous Buddhas that have reached nirvana, namely Kassapa Buddha
(South), Kakusandha Buddha (North), Konagamana Buddha (East) and Gautama Buddha
(West).

The Kakusandha Buddha image and the Kassapa Buddha image date back the the early
12th century when the Ananda was built. They are in the Dhammachakka Mudra, a gesture
that represents the setting in motion of the Wheel of Dhamma, the teachings of the Buddha.
The Konagamana image and the Gautama image are in the Mandalay style and were likely
made in the 17th century after the originals were destroyed by a fire.

The Gautama Buddha, the most recent Buddha who lived 2,500 years ago is in the Abhaya
Mudra, which expresses fearlessness. The Konagamana Buddha holds a small object in his
right hand which looks like a pill. This Mudra might represent the teachings of the Buddha as
a medicine against human suffering.

The expression on the face of the Kassapa image appears to change when viewed from
different distances. While there appears to be a smile on the image’s face from nearby, from
further away the smile seems to fade.

The walls in the central chamber have been whitewashed; some of the murals that were
originally there have been restored. In front of the Gautama image are two lacquer statues.
One is of King Kyanzittha, the builder of the Ananda in a devout position of paying respect to
the Buddha. The other one is of Shin Arahan, the monk from the Thaton Kingdom who
converted King Anawrahta to Buddhism.
Jataka tales plaques
The base and six receding terraces of the Ananda Pagoda contain the largest collection of
plaques of all Bagan temples. The plaques are glazed terra-cotta tiles with depictions of tales
from the Jataka stories, the tales about the previous lives of the Buddha. One side of the base
of the Ananda contains 553 plaques that show the Mara, a demon who tries to prevent the
Buddha from reaching enlightenment. The other side contains depictions of the Gods who
celebrate the defeat of Mara and his army.

The terraces contain plaques that each show a different scene from a particular Jataka tale.
The first three terraces contain 537 plaques with a description in ancient Pali language. The
upper terraces contain another set of 375 plaques with a description in Mon language .
Lawkananda pagoda

11th Century stupa on the Irrawaddy river enshrining Buddha relics

Name: Lawkananda pagoda, Loka Nanda paya
Date: 1059
King Anawrahta
Location: On the banks of the Irrawaddy river
Off Bagan - Chauk road near new Bagan
Style: Early period
Nearby: Kubyauk-gyi
The Lawkananda Paya is a beautiful golden pagoda on top of a small hill on the banks of the
Irrawaddy river. Its name translates to “Joy of the world” in ancient Pali language.

The pagoda, also known as the Loka Nanda pagoda was built in 1059 by King Anawrahta,
founder of the Bagan empire. It enshrines a replica of a tooth relic of the Gautama Buddha,
that the King obtained from Sri Lanka. The pagoda, located a few kilometers South of old
Bagan marked the Southern boundary of Bagan’s capital.

The cylindrical pagoda somewhat resembles the much older Bupaya pagoda, located further
North in old Bagan, which is more bell shaped.

From the Loka Nanda’s platform visitors have good views of the Irrawaddy river and the
mountain range in the background. At night the pagoda is lit up. Although an attractive place
with the river breeze and serene atmosphere, the Lawkananda is a little visited Paya, mainly
used by Burmese people as a place of worship.

In the middle of the rainy season late July, Early August depending on the lunar calender the
Lawkananda pagoda festival is held to celebrate the rain in the very dry Bagan region.

Gilded pagoda and other structures on the grounds

On the banks of the Irrawaddy river is a jetty, which during the days of the Bagan empire was
used by large trading ships from far away places as the Mon Kingdom Thaton, Rakhine and
India. The temple grounds are guarded by two large ferocious looking Chinthes (mythological
lions), standing at the bottom of the stairways to the platform holding the Lawkananda.

The pagoda’s dome is set on an octagonal base of three receding tiers. The lower two tiers
are fitted with steps on three sides. The cylindrical dome is adorned with intricate flower
motifs. The solid brick pagoda, which was previously white, has recently been gilded. Its
interior, which enshrines a Buddha tooth relic, is not accessible. The Lawkananda is topped
with a hti, a finial in the shape of a multitiered umbrella often found on Burmese temples.
The hti is adorned with jewels.

On the platform next to the pagoda is a shed housing a large wooden drum and statues of
two men carrying a bell. A structure next to the pagoda houses a seated Burmese style
Buddha image.
History of the Lawkananda Pagoda

King Anawrahta had managed to acquire a Buddha tooth relic from the King of Sri Lanka.
When the relic arrived by boat the King waded into the waters of the Irrawaddy river to
welcome the relic. Initially the relic was enshrined in the Royal Palace, until a pagoda to hold
it was built.

According to ancient chronicles, the tooth was then put in a shrine on the back of a white
elephant, which was then set loose. Wherever the elephant would stop and kneel down, the
pagoda was to be build. The elephant stopped at the spot where currently the Shwezigon
Pagoda stands. Miraculously a second tooth appeared, which was likewise put on top of an
elephant, that this time stopped and kneeled down further South on the banks of the
Irrawaddy river. At this spot the Lawkananda pagoda was built and the relic was enshrined
within it.