ke Apparel Production he apparel production business bas long been out of the hand needle or foot — power stage. thas | engincered” industry in present time. The propert and characteristics of tht following three physical elements which are present in every apparel producon 7 * process: “The raw materials being processed -- Materials wiipment -- Machines g te process ~ Men. \rnust also be added to the three areas satel design many types of material are turing and Awaréness in the! fourth ares The geometric principles of apr sewed-into the veriety.of products of the apparel manufe allied manufacturing industries. - A knowledge of the properties and characteristics of ‘these materials is therefore of prime importatice for the formukation f efficient qualitative and quantitative production.,[t is therefore necessary first.to be able to. identify the physical prope of fabrics and to understand the nature of the characteristics of these fabric physical propertiés. working, Apparel-Production Present time apparel industry was. known ‘as “ industries ‘originally, this encompassed in. any industry producing dle — Trade” products:}. Which wer made from fabric (or) 2. Which arg’ produced largely with se 3, Basic types of Apparel production proce ving machines »s of apparel “he following three major types of production phas (allied) manufacturing. ~ ” the raw material into shapes for assembly jand or ng, eivinig: Assembling and or finishing the cpt or pre-made pieces _ with stitches for cutting, pressing, packing ‘or'shipping operations. Sewing fabic 3. Pressing: Shaping cut. or sewn material without heat and or moisture, for further processing or marketing. L with pressure, with or “sa ~Pressing garments There are three other types of production used for as ning, purposes; they are riveting, cementing, and nent sembling, decorating or fini fusing, Riveting is used for clo v¢ functions; riveting operations are executed with punch presses. Cementing consists of joining two (or more) sections with the use of cement, glue, paste, or any other adhesion médium : sures, decorative and reinforcer ‘The exact combination of production steps is determined by the following'ifems. Product style + Raw materials used + Available production equipment + Available production space + Available labour supply. The following are only a few of the general production sequence used: | J - pack, store, or ship 2. Cut— sew~ press ~ sew ~ pack, store, or ship 3. G-S- pack; Store, then ship 4. $-C-S-P-C-C-P- pack, or store, then ship. 5, P-C-S-P-S-P; ete ; ‘The term cut, sew, presses C or the symbols C.S.P mean that one or more such operation take place on the, production phase. ‘The construction characteristics and the physical properties of the matérials control the manner in. which these materials react during,sosumaesseinerneens and lo, the indiyidual production operations. This situation also varies with the typefand degree of mechanical action and human effort (mental and physical) necessary to per form the production operation, Now-a-days sophisticated sewing and allied machineries are being made to. fulfil the requirement of globally oriented apparel manfacturing industries; therefore more productivity expectation to meet the timely requirement of the global oriented buyers will become the latest. — trend. India, Bangladesh, China, Indonesia, Vietnam producing more volume..of apparel-for indigenous / domestic and Export purpose. Mostly, USA, UK countries expecting apparel product from the above meritioned countries. Peet oa The developnient of Apparel production sectors will be yielding- better job positions to ‘men and women. Couhtries economic condition.will ‘also’ be flourished: Foreign exchange’ gained considerably and the under developed countries wealth rate also. be, increased treméndously . In apparel manufacturing industry, sewing machines are being used for joining the fabric. parts which is supplicd from the cutting section.” rigus-types. ofstitching are done in sev g production plant.by the unigue help of sewing needle and, also different, accessories are, sewing, by-this-machine. : ‘The most and important sewing niachincs ere used in Apparel manufacturing industry are mentioned as follows. . Lock stitch / Plain / Regular sewing machine: This machine is basically used to stitch / sew all types of garments. + Twin needle lock stitch machine: Normally used for decorative. stitching / seaming purpose. Suitable for woven fabric. : well as woven and Used to stitch as +» Chain’ Stitch machin: knitted garments.Double chaifr stitch. machine: Used stitch as well as woven and knitted garments : xd for knit and woven Over lock machine @- Thread): Us fabri¢ sewing. Normally used inside scam, armhole, sleeve portion to prevent raw edges of fabric. Safety Stiteh over lock machine (3 ~ "Phread): ‘This m/e is used for Knit and woven fabric for sewing a plain.scam with over lock application.on side seam, arm hole portion. Flat lgck machine: Used. for covering, chain stitch, Mostly used for producing knit wear. Steet FOA m/e with cylinder Bed: Specially used-for the sleeve portion, trousers in scam joining and frdnt rise back ris attaching purpose for. pyjamas /Bermuda’s / Boxet shorts. Button -hole machine: Used for sewn the button hole in the garment. Button sewing machine: Used to sew the button is the garment Bar lock machine: Used in trousers Belt-loop joining, pocket corner and zipper fly portion. 7 Blind stitch Machine: Is used for bottom ham of the pant, skirt shorts, and pyjamas Kansai Special Machine: ‘This machine is used for front placket and waist band or ----- sewing purpose. Also this m/c has a --~ needle with 0.5 to 2.5 inch distance and very much used for special attaching purpose with required scam distance. Pocket sewer Machine: Specially used for sew pockets of the coat and overcoat with heavy weight fabricNow = a- days apparel manufacturing sewing machines with latest technological khowledge to be learned or target by the trainer to gain more productivity in a given lesser Ume. Clothing, plays an important role in recent times, Quality oriented apparel products are always having. the. marketability: Apparel manufacturers are making their products to meet their customers requirement and-as well as the expectations. Though the cut throat competition among thempparel manufacturers are commion in present days, but the survival is most important. Many more moder types of machinery are made and introduced for the benefit of the growth of the apparel industries, and manufacturers are highly benefitted Definition and Types of sample Unit 2- Sampling départment:_| Definition Sample is a product which represents group of product or Jot or batch, in order to assess.their quality, style or design or any other characteristic of the product. Based on the samples, the buyer will \ give approval or comments for any alteration in design or style or quality. Samples will-reflect-the quality and workmanship of. the Spon CEL or manu facet Samples are made to make sure to get a - quality in the particular order. e = ; ; Samples may be made before start of the production or can be taken from the finished goods.\for every order or style, separate saitfples are to be made. Samples help in to P ure or get the orders from the buyer) 7 6peemenen { In a particular ovfler, samples are made at different stages to make | | sure that all perafneters are maintained properly. A good sample will | i Take good first impression to te -buyer on the exporter oF | manufacturer, Special care should be taken while making the saraplesy } : Types Tn apparel manufacturing the different samples are required as + = Tollows Original sample ~ ‘This exporter lo develop or make a counter sample. . Offer sample — This is the sample offered by the exporter to the buyer to get orgers which may be newly developed styles or designs or samples from already sent orders. Bit sample — This is the’first sample made bythe exporter based on / ‘he original sample or sketch and specification sheet giver by the buyer. The .fit sample may be made from available fabric “of ‘same fabric structure, fibre, nearer GSM aiid any color. This sample is _madc to check the fit of theparticular style.) cs Ie ~ After the fit sample is approved, then prota-sample is made with the actual fabric of the’ particular order in any color. ‘This 5 the ” a the sample given by the buyer to the sample once approved, by tre buyer: will be considered reference sample for production, This is also called as red seal sample. : men “photo shoot sample — This sample is required by the buyers who are / having own retail chain stores throughout the county. These buyers © do buy for their own stores and they regularly make catalogue of the products what they sell. These buyers are normally termed as “eatalogue buyers’. The catalogue will have the details’ about the : products like their style, style no., assortments ranges, and price ranges etc. and also will carry the photos of the models who wear He those garments. The samples which ave used in taking the photo shoot where the samples will be worn by the models. These photos then will : be printed or used in the catalogues, advertisements, bill boards and on the-inner packing etc, The buyer will indicate the required size of the photo. shoot sample which is the size of the model and. will be required -in-all.colors-of the order. =Care should beflaken for defects and workmanship while making the photo shoots photos amples because that will be clearly visible in the an’ simple ~ This sample is required by the buyers who are lo the other retail stores thraughout the country. buyers are normaily termed as “wh ile buyers’ because they import the goods and sell it to the order retail stores through their salesmen, So these buyers require salesman samples from their salesman-to carry and scil the goods to the local retailers. Normally these samples will be required in several sizes and colors ° ¢ set sample yp Once the proto sample is approved, based on the pattern of the fapproved_sample the grading -for."the other, si: are ‘done and then patterns for other will ‘Then the samples for all thé other sizes ar Je. to check and worlamanship. The “hpproval for. the size set samples will be given by the buying house. OC if available locally.or by the QC manager of the exporter jtself Without the size set approval, the cutting: should not be started Per production (PP) ox Pilot run sample ~ Pilot run is a trail ra which should. be conducted before starhng the bulk-sewing. It is done to’ check the feasibility. of the sewing operat during the bulk operation because so far the samples are made in the sampling ‘gection,-sewn slowly taking enough time by the sampling men. But the production’ should be done at. rapid speed to meet the targets. The tiail run is conducted to check the workmanship or any other quality parameters like puckering ef. at high speed operation. Normally 25- vin in the trial ryn and checked for this purpose. ample is taken from the bulk production i for production re \SSarsent to the buyers for approval. Some buyers sample to see the sample how. it looks. in, the bulk production. This sample is also termed as fGold seal sam} le by some buyers. Without the gold seal’Sample a provat the shipment or final inspection cannot be done... eee ; hipmeént sample ~ This the sample which is required by the-buyer after the final inspection is passed and the goods are ready for shipment. The difference between the shipment sample and the other. samples mentioned above 1s that the shipment sample. is in the form with all packing accessories packed in the, required form and wil!by_eoerssapesqonmemmnas ener genmnonnremen Ames NR Aa NRO represent the progact that the form in which the buyer will receive the goods. + Fabric sample — - check its quality parameters like labric handle, hairiness ete, Some buyers require the approval of the fabric also before going in for ome buyers may require finished fabric samples to fabric production ‘Accessories sample — ‘The accessories both the packing and production should be approved by the buyer if it.ig sourced by the : exporter. Gene! ally all the accessories will be stapled in a card/sheet daly marked all the details of the accessories, made in, duplicates:and sent to the buyers for approval, This card is termed as “Frim card’. Document sample — Sometimes” the docuniéiits’ format say vary ~ from buyer to buyer or country to country. So for that purpose normally duplicate invoice is prepared after the order is confirmed sand sent to the buyer for approval because -arly mistake in the document will delay the shipment of the goods Phoid sample —"This, js adtually not a product sample but it is a photo which will be used to give or show information or instructions like packing style or form, label positions in the product and the package, position of cartonsmarkings ete. : Garment Sampling” ‘Garment sampling is a very important task in an apparel manufacturing concen as the satisfaction of the customer wilh respect to the product being a manufactured is gauged by the sampling comments and acceptability level. ‘This 1s¢ if the buyer is not satisfied by the samples, this puts is in tum important b : the following at risk: Ao mare Bi Cs i. Placement of the order 7 . : ii, Acceptance Of the some or the entire quantily of garments produced : There’ may be a separate sampling department in’ a company. But as the merchandisey is the person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples sampling. department will work under the : and ‘other requirements, thi ing department. supervision of merchandisit Also as the samples are to be made according to the buyers’ price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise sampling department suitably.Purpose of S: @ fo allow the buy to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer @ To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production proce: @ To tet the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop, cost quotations Information provided with Ref nv. - Composition Description Quantity Style nof Size Sampling Process: i The process of sample department varies from one context t6-another, andthe development process covers'a wide range of diverse products from new fibres, fibre blends, new: yarns, fabric structures, finishes and surface effects: and’ all types af:made up products such as knitwear, ‘hosiery, cut and Sewn garments, houschold products, technical and medical products. There ate different phases of sampling; = The first phase covers the development of the initial concept or design idea through its approval by the customer and full review/risk analysis by the development and. production teams < ‘The second phase covers the process following, acceptance of the first prototype sample and includes the fonctions of-sourcing and ordering, component, testing the product and carrying oul trails once the finalized sample specifications: has been drawn~up, the third and: final phase commences. + ‘The phase inchides range of activities that are carri¢d out-before large scale or buIK production capacity outside the home producer/developers wherever this is applicable. aSamples: “the different types of samples sent to the buyer, ih the order af dispatch Salesimen samples or promotional samples = «Proto samples or fit samples. Pre-production samples « Size sét samples _” samples samples or promotional samples Some buyer needs these samples for getting the orders from their customers: If the buyer is having 7 salesmen in his office, then the bayer will ask us to make 7 samples. .in each style. ‘The salesmen’ will, book the orders from their customers, by “showing the’g samples. Buyer will place the order. to us al aceumulating the quantities. sometimes, we may get orders for all 5 If-we +have sent’ samples for 5 styles, + ‘styles, 3 styles or 1 style. Sometimds, we may not get order for even a single style, Expected sales may not be possible, dué to poor qhality, unsuitable colors 7 uleryinent improper me: samples. Or it ray be due to unsuitable priced with sin ore interest to get orders, These samples are to be made aft needed to check the meas ~ “available similar fabrics but in the Some buyers may necd theses: garments op photo inlay: needed for local advertisement o Pr ‘These -production samples Any way, we have 10 maki Proto Samples or fit samples rrements,_slyle_and fit, So they packing box, hang tag, etc. These unmatched prints or embroidery, cle of salesmen local business recession or competition or ssc salesmen samples perfectly are umpl n, be made in er getting the order sheets.-The actual measurements and specifications mples-if they want to print the photos of amples may be buyer’s promotional occasions.) amples are basically approval samples for bulk production, They have to be made in actual production fabric with actual bulk trims. ‘They will represent that the production will. be like these samples. Si iz¢ set samples Buyer may check these samples sizes offered. Hence these samples _-These samples are meant to allow the buyer to check the dimensions for all the are needed to be perfect in all manners. for everything or anything, Some times, they may do wash test'also. We should not gel any remark or comment, We have to igct only ‘OK’ from the buyer. ‘Then only we can ship the goods and we can be sure of getting payment. So thes Sealer samples mples are Lo be sent with more care. ‘These samples aré the last samples sent to the buyer. They should be sent in actual packing with all labels, tag by the production capability of th samples ‘have been approved by means to. guarantee that the cus account, and if there is still any sealer samples .s, etc, Generally, the buyer should be satisfied e manufacturer till this phase, as various other now, However, the sealer samples provide a stomer’s ‘requirements ‘have ‘been taker into discrepancy, it Can, be addressed through the 2py mnenerrmerennmenmannmeneneeyrns Sampling a Apparel Manufacturing Broadly garment samples are categorized ay development samples and production samples. Samples that is made in develop! are as following pent slay Proto Sainple FIT sample Salesman Sample/Photo shot Sample 4. Size set Sample 5. Pre-prodiction Sample ' ‘ In production stage-factory need to submit [ew more samples thatinchides = 1. Top of Procuiction Sample 2. Shipment Sainpte are proto type of now design created by _JeProto Sample: these samples ° “This is the first sample ia product development stage. Proto sample is at garment designe made to communicate the design of a style or a line oF to pr An proto samples fit and fabric detailing is not been eonsidered/\ 24 stricture 2 _ 2-AFF Sample: Once proto sample is approved, FIT Is being made with aétual Aneasurement, Modification on, the pattern is done to get desired fit-of the gannent, PIT is one-of the most imporiant factor to be considered during sample sample is being tested on tive model or Dress form, for to development. FIT verify garment fit and fall > . 3, Salesman Sample: Salesman samples are madé to put oh display in the retail showroom, ‘Salesman: sarnple (SMS) are’ displayed for assessing: customer's respotise buyers’ forecast demand of an feedback and according to custome: particular style: Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and agcessories. Buyer pays for sales mniin samples to the developer. 4, Size set Sample: “different sizes. In this slage factory develops sample The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garmer in multipleGenerally, buyers fisk size set sample in jump sizes, like $, 1, and XXL. Buyer and give feedback to factory if anything need to be check size set_sdmp! corrected: 5. Pre-production Sample: All the ‘above samples are made in sampling department. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample) to be made in actual production linc, so that operators know what they are going tomake. This ries and made by sewing, sample is made with actual fabric, trims and ace line tailors, PP sample must be approved-by Buyer or buying house merchants clual production 7 {echnical persons) prior to proceeding 6. Top of Production Sample (TOP sample): Once production is online, fow pieces aré taken out in the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP sample. All buyers do not ask for TOP sample. Purpose is to. cross-check whether factory is following PP sample specification or not. 7. Shipment Sample: When Style is being,finished and packed for shipment, 2- 3 finished and packed pieces with all packing details are kept for “future story merchants and:buyers merchant. reference. Shipment sample is kept by fe ‘he approved shipment is sent discetly to warehouse and. merchants at the buyer do not-get garment out of the shipment. ‘That is why they keep shipment sample for futurereference: Garments Sample: Sampling is one of themain prot in garment manufacturing and it plays vital role in attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the ordér once satisfied with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. Garmentsamples are so much important and are developed tested before starting. the bulk production. The buyer will access the exporter and his organization only by the samples. 7 : Flow chart of apparet sample making 4Garment sainple making Flow Chart of Garment Sample Making* jun or Sketch (Manually or Computerized ) | » Block ( Manually or Computerized ) Garments Des B “Working Pattern (By Machine ) J ric cutting Prin Embroidery (If requires | a Sewing L Finishing Sample Garments (Manually ) Problem of Production or Production: Related Matter Costinp tie eesti encarta Send to 15/ Buyer / J Approved Sample Production Pattern ( By Hand or Computer ) UNIT -2_ CUTTING DEPARTMENT: Machineries, Fabric Laying, Marker Preparation, Sorting, Numbering & Buidling, Fusing Department, Method of Fusing,, Fusing Machines Fabric Inspection: When the fabrics are received: from the dyeing. and.finishing-seetio , it needs to be checked, because, faulty fabrics can be supplied from dyeing and finishing. But the ‘cutting section has to check it. Otherwise the end products will be faully. For this, the fab ric is being inspected: by the quality inspector of the cutting section. They check the-fabric Tully and find out the faults. Then mark it so that, these faulty portion of the fabric can be rejected during spreading and cutting. Then the fabric is being stored for relaxation Finished Fabric Inspection 16coer Fabric Relaxation: When the fabric comes, from the dycing and finishing, the"fabrie remams ? slightly hot. In dryer, stenter and compactor heat is ‘applied on fabric. So norsture is removed from Hie fabric and 11 18 not in actual condibon, Bai if we jn nosmal temperature and pressure for a certain tine, the fabric peers moisture from the atmosphere, amd regains its original nature. “This process is called fabric relaxation, Another ¢ fof fabric relaxation is to semintain the dimensional stability of produced garments, When the fabric is din different finishing machines, it goos under certain beat and pressure to give it proper shape” But“when the heat and pressure & being withdiwih, the shape may change. So, if the dimension is became stabilized before cutting, no chance of strain in garments. So.relaxation is very necessary before cutting, keep the fabr c being pro Relaxation Period Fabric relaxation is’ performed for a certain period. This time is varied from fibric.to fabric. But the minimum time of relaxation is tvelve (12) hours. This time also may Vary according to the buyer’s recommendation ‘After fabiic relaxation, different tests are performed for maintaining the proper quality.sont a OYE ET . Relaxed Loop Elongated Loop: Pest Cutting & Approval: : ‘After testing the fabric, if iL is seemed that, the fabric quality is,ok, and then test cutting is done. Here a TittR: amount of fabric is out and. sewed in sewing Section, Then the garments are compared with the approved sample. Sewing stowance and other measurements are also observed. If everything ok, thei” the approval is given and the fabric is'veady for bulk production: Marker Maki ‘ Vor industrial garments preparation, markey making 18 a very important chapter for highest usage of fabric and for lowest wastage of fabric. 4 Divine Textiles Liiaited there is a strong eam working forsiiaiker imaking in Culling section of cach floor. This is a process which is performed to draw the patie pieces on the fibrie before cutting, ‘This may be done by drawing the pattem pieces on the fabric divectly or by drawing the pattern pieces on a thin qparker paper and then placement the paper onto the fabric lay. So, we can define th as bellow. Marker is a thin paper'whigh contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments in such a way that, fabric wastage would be heast. the 1épiésentation or drawing of the arrangement of identified garment patléra relevant to the cutting, ofa batch material. The marker is placed’ on the terial and provides guideline for cutting, Marker may be on fabric or held in computer data files. Marker width is equal to the minimum fabric width and ils rength depends on the no of pattern sizes that will be draven Preparations of Marker Making: ng, some preparatory. processes would be followed. In processes are followed strictly Before the marker maki Divine Textiles Limited thes Marking Grain Line-Before marker making, the grain line of pattern and fabric must bé marked ee = Fabric Measurement: Before marker play measured carefully. Because, marker width is fabric width. ning, the fabric must be relevant to the minimumoF colour fast Woodhead Py ishing Led: 1999 IN, 4 Guide to Geo Te; Testing,oy ‘suauarsny- syuauddoo 7 soH05590 jroyaus toddns “S18consideration. In a <<} Fabric Faulty Fabric faults would be also unde fabric toll, wHlere any faults found, thal points must be avoided for quality production and to least the fabric wastage } Cutting Table: Marker planner-should consider th a / before making marker, Marker length must be less than the cutting table ath, 2 cutting table | Methods of Marker Making: i ‘There are two methods of marker making: 7 . tiles Limited, manwialincthod is U8a for marker making, Mere _ In Divine Tes marker is produced in'two ways: - Marker drawn direetly on fabric lay. Marker-drawn on marker paper. Marker drawn directly on fabric lay This is the oldest and miostly used methad for marker making. In this processes fabric is spread on‘cutting table and selling up all pattern picces directly on to the fabric. Marking is done by chalk, pencil or pen. Ib-order of this method, needs more time and experience. : M: er drawn on marker paper: In this process marker is made on marker paper. All the pattern pieces are laid ona thin marker paper and drawo it, Then the marker paper in placed on fabric lay and used for fabric cu! agth and width must be taken under. An analytical comment: . In this factory, manual method is used for marker making. The advantages of computerized method are given bellow comparing with the manual method: Advantages + More suitable for Jarge'scale production than the manual method : 19ses nee + Marker effiglency is higher than manual. - = Least wastye of fabric + Low production cost + Low labor cost.. + required, print out of the marker could be got. + Grading of the pattern could be done automatically + Few lime consumption cs + Marker can be prepared quickly than manual “Disadvantages: : + Initial investment is bigher than manual + More, skilled opgrator is needed than manval. | think everything has its positive and negative’ sides, But in comparison, the Advantages of ~ Computerized marker are more .than -the manual. It increases the efficiency, workability and production of the factory. It saves valuable (fab iic wi “Thus Saves money too, Moreover it attracts lo use computerized tnarker making system ic. Computer it would be better story can think about Aided Design (CAD) instead of manual method. So the fa it. FABRIC SPREADIN ‘The appropriate type of ‘spreading surface is determined by the fabric type, spreading equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the firm’s quality standards. Spreading requires'a flat, smooth surface. If the spreading surface -doubles as a cutting surface, it also must be level: Spreading and cutting may be done on the saxhe surface, but automated cutting often réqiires Spreading and cutting to be done in adjacent but separate locations. i are available in standard widths that correspond Spreading and cutting surfaces ng, to fabric width, Narrow fabrie can be spread on-a wider table. A spreadi surface needs to be about 10 inches wider than the fabric. Spreadingtables may have tracks or rails placed along one or both sides of a tabletop-or just a few inches off the floor, This track helps guide and control the spreader as it moves up and down the length of the table. With some types of equipment, the table tracks are geared to synchronize the movement of the’ spreading machine with fabric unrolling, in order to regulate tension. 20__ Fig: Fabric spreading Spreading, tables may also be very spec alized for certain types of fabric and cutting equipment. Pin tables have rows of pins located below the surface that can be extéiided through’slats to hold fabric in a precise location for accurate , 7 matching, of pattern repeats. Vacuum tables are used to compress lay-up gad prevent shifting or movement -during cullin. ‘A spread is covered with a plastic film that forms a seal,over the Ta; up when a vacuuint is applied, A lay-up of Guilled fabric can-be comipréssed as much as 75 percent when the vacuum is teed, This allows-more plies in the lay-up: and restricis the _movemest of arate cuUting Slippety.fabrics for more ac Cutting equipment may be moved to a lay-up 2s another Jay-up is prepared ; farther down the table, or fabric can be spread on one surface and then transferred to the Cutting surface, Air Aotation tables, when activated; allow easy movement of a lay-up gnto an adjacent cutting area A layer of air betw the table surface and the bottom layer of paper reduces fiction and allows a lay up to be moved easily without putting stress on the fabric or the operators, Spreading tables with conveyor zedésurfaces carry the fabric to the cutting machine so that no time is wasted, Ideally ane lay-up can be.cut while ig being spread. Conveyors may be used with compiiterized cuiting systems, large die presses, and laser cutters: :cryin AAT _spreading, device and by large firms Fig: Automatic spreading Machine with fabric control devices ‘The fundamentél purpose of spreading machines is to superimpOs’ layers of fabric in a smooth, tension-free manner for accurate ad efficient culling, - Manually operated spreading machines can be as simple a rol) bar mounted on four wheels that is pashed up and down a spreading table By a operator. Manual spreaders travel only as fast as an operator moves them, while some of rhe faster automated machines can spread [00-150 yards per minute Spreading speed can ony be utilized on Jong, spreads with few defects. Spreading speed may affect productivity, quality, and, cost of the operation, but it should not.be ‘the primary focus Tor purchase of new equipment. may be used by small firms as the primary for short spreads. As spreading machines become more sophisticated, they are motor driven and have fabric control devices included increasing productivity, decreasing’ variability, and making spreading more cost-efficient” 7 Manual spreading machin Habrie control device during garments spreadinig: . Fabric contiol devices afe mechanisms that conitol fabric as it is carried up and down the table: (i) Tensioning mechanisms, ; (ii) Positioning devices, (iii) End treatment systems. (i Tensioning involvés synchronizing the rate of spreading with the rate fabric ig unrolled. A positive feed system utilizes a covered roller that is driven and timed to the movement of the machine, It prevents the momentum of a largé roll from continuing 10 unwind when, the machine slows down or stops, Roller covers of different materials may be used to give better gripping, power. for different types. (ii) Positioning devices and sensors monitor position and control fabric placement during spreading, ‘These devices improve the quality of & spread. Electronic edge sensors monitor selvages'as fabric is spread. A’ deviation from the proposed alignment triggers a motor that shifts the roll to the ‘correct position. Alignment can be held to one-eighth inch tolerance'with these devices. (iis) Width indicators may sound an alarm fo alert the operator whenever fabric narrower than the established width. Width variations are analyzed to becom 22cpg CRC SEE ESET CTI : 2 whe marker they fall, whetHer the fbric will stil Ht the as a defect and removed, determine Where - marker, or whether dhe variation should be treated | with spreaders but are separate and placed at, : the ead of the spread. The specific end treatinent equipment needed depends on rehether.the spreading mode is face-to-face or facc-one-way. A fo Xpread wlilizes an end catcher and folding blade that work together, These are vpochanical parts, mounted at opposite ends of the marker to catch and hold the Fabric ae the blade shapes and creases the fold. An over feed device may be built into the spreading unit, which automatically feeds extra material when 2 fold is to be made, Ehd treatments have a major impact on fabsie waste, There must be enough fabric al the end of a lay to retain it in place, (iv) End treatment devices are used FABRIC CUTTING: After completing the fabric spreading then the bric cutting is started. To cut out pattern pieces of garment components as per exact dimension of the pattems bric Tay is called fabrié cutting, The term fabric cutting 1s only armenls: manufacturing technology. : from a fa applicable for Fabric gutting, should be done accurately as per-exact dimension of the paler pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting lind i mnarker’ planning. If manual culling ‘method is used, then cutting “accuracy depends on: sharpness. of knife, skill ness of operator, and altentivencs! of opetutor. Computer controlled cutting and dic cutting have their § of cutting accuracy. During fabric cutting, the friotion, between the fabric and the blade produc temperature in the blade; the temperature’ may be up to 300°C Ifthe fabric contains synthetic “fibres, e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused ‘edge may result in the fabric. As because most of those fibres melt at around 250°C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric wastage Moreover, the fused edge after cooling, will form hard bid, which will be problem of irritation during use of garments, “fo avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the following steps may be taken Reduce the height of the lay; Reduce the cutling speed; Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval; — - Lubricate the knife during cuttingcnn SELENE goto - inspected for required production, g: Straight knife cutting machine ——t ‘& machines all fabric. Pocketing and ‘Thén layering starts manual interlining, © After lay then spread marker upon on the fabric. Marker check by pattern in quality people. Keep all document make & style. Color. And size wise send report to store & sewing line. . Before cutting cutter man attach clamp. Gum tap on the layer. © Ufmarker have drill mark then need to drill o Cutting start by'cutter man, o Then group and ratio wise stricken, As per lay order sheet make bundle chart and send to i.e. Section for bundle card printing. o As per bundle chart wise numbéring, e o Then panel check. o If have any fault nced to replace cut bundle roll and shad wise then- * bundle and send to line’by input gitl : » Ihave any fusing, embroidery than send to this section, oss is complcte, the entire garment components are When the cutting pre Spreading and Cutting Stage Problem: i a |Cause Lack of Sufi fficient . IGperators are not allowing sufficient | . hime for fabric Relaxation: Irelaxation See ‘found to be more than| f oo many no of plies - IPly height wa b> jon maintained ‘during spreading” Excessive dragging Higher dragging tens between spreader roller to Idges of knife are not sharp and it leads to firing spreading Blunt knife edges luneven shaping _ Sticker Tagging: 26 \ -After comple ng is.an fmportant part int 1g on the cutting fabi i utting, the fabric is tagging by the sticker. The sticker his section. Due to fabric numbering oF surface. Bundling: After cutting the fabric lay and tagging the sticker, all the garmhents form is shorted put as per size and color. ‘To avoid components in mistake in s6rting, il is better lo use Code i nber on cach palters ig: Sorting / Bundling 2”When sorting / buy{dling are complete, all the garment components are sending, to the sewing secon CUTTING SECTION: Cutting section is one of the most important sections for manufactu garments in Factory. There isa process or sequence which is strictly followed in arment manufacturing industry. the cutting section of Cutting section of a garment snanufacturing tidustry Process Sequence in'Cutting Room: Marker Making: L Fabric Spreading a Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay : ve Fabric Cutting. oo OW Numbering v 100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed. L Shorting & Bundling. v Sewing/Assemblingerento em en Gorments manufacturing Marker Making: The measuring department determines the nt. Computer software helps the technicians create the d efficiently, Markers, fabric yardage needed for each style and size of garme optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric can be use! made in accordanice to the patterns are attached to the fabric with the help. of adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during cutting operation. After marking the get the idea-of how much fabric he has to order in garment manufacturer will etherefore careful execution is advance for the construction of garment: importantin this step. Computer masking is done on specialized soft wares. In computerized marking there is no need of large paper sheets for calcatating the yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are made’instead to know how much fabric is required. Fabric Spreading: E With the help of spreading machines, fabric is stacked on one another in reaches or lays that may go over 100 ft (30.5 m) long and hundreds of plies (fabric pieces) thick Cutting: The fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines suitable for the type of the cloth. These can be band cutters having simitar work method like that of band saws; cutters having rotary blades; machines having reciprocal blades which saw up and down; die clickers similar to die or punch press; or computerized machines that use cither blades or laser beams to cut the fabric in desired shapes. ; Sorting/Bundling: ‘The sorter sorts the patterns according to size and design and makes bundles of them. This step requires much precision because making bundles of mismatched patterns can create severe problems. On each bundle there are specifications of the style’size and the marker too is attached with it. 29arses soe Sewing/Assembljng: The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment manofacturers have their own sewing units other use to give the fabrics on contract to other contractors, Stitching in-house is preferable because one can maintain quality control during the processing. On the other hand if contractors are hired keeping eye on quality is difficult unless the contactor is one who precisely controls the process. There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces. In this workplace, there are many operators who perform a single operation. Gne operator may make only straight seams, while dnother may. make sleeve insets. Yet another two operators can sew the Waist seams, and ” Plasma Torch cutting Machine Manual Cutting Machine: We can understand scissor as a manual cutting machine. ‘Scissor only used when 36ouble plies. Almost every type of cloth is cut by scissor cutting only sing! But it takes huge tinfe for fabric cutting, So it is not used in bulk production: 2) Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine Straight Knife of Cutting Machine: tile culling Straight. knife cutting machine is. the most popular and vel achine, Il is widely used in clothing industry. Because.it’s production speed is ight, can be cut very easily Béides, knife is : casily sight knife cutting mechine Round Knife Cutting Machine: Peat ete Round knife culling machine is called because its cutter is round in shape. It is also popular cutting machine, Thig machine is sunall in sizel flexible used For siial] production} Round knife i8 widely used is of the ‘ments pattem. Guiting the big p 37sFigi Round knife cutting machine Band Knife Cutting Machine: 7 Band knife cutting machine is look like a wood cutter machines;This cutting s automatically according to the height of the relevant material cognized around the world for many machine wor Band knife cutting machines have been ¢ years for its high quality cutting Fig: Band knife cutting machine ; : Die Cutting Machine: Die cutting machine involves pressing a rigid blade througli the |: mall motifs with particular shape and pattern are seeded for ay of fabric. It is useful wher cutting, Dic cutting, is most useitil to’ cut sharp-and small parts. Mainly wo types of die cuttings are available in.market namely, Clickers and Presses. Fig: Die outting rnachine Notcher Cutting Machine: It is a special type of cutting machine & use in special case, Useftl fo cut small * 38poy smaremteen viching. This notch to the fabric. Ufis most useful to make consisteney i cannot be used in ermoplastic fibers or certain unlined garments Fig: Notcher Cutting Machine Drill Cutting Machin Sometimes it is needed to mark on the end of ¢ ponents of dresses for the position of pockets, darts and similar features, a hole is often dril also used for marking the hole permanently through all the plies of fabric in the lay. This machine i on the middle of the components'oF-dre for a long, “s Fig: Drill Cotting Machine 3) Fully Automatic / Computerized Cutting Machine: Computer Controlled Knife Cutting Machine: ‘This-cutting machine provides the most accu ssible Ivis suitable for large scale production. Marl utting at high speed. ssary to put over the er is not niFig: Plasma Torch Cuiting Machine EUSING native method of foitiiig fabric! INS Widely used"fo attach the Fusing is an altey interlining. Now a day, garment Manufacturing cannot be imagined without .d by-heating into the fabric under pressure and when it becomes cool and hard; both fabric-and interlining are attached stongly. Fusing is controlled by four processing components such as . jtimé, pressure and cooling fusing. Resin coating of interlining melte Fusing process anBytes encanta nen tuner we. i Flow/Chart of Garment Fusing Process: Part of garment is to be fused spreaded : 4 Resinated interlining surface is placed and applied required pressure and ‘I temper L . Resin on Goating of interlining, is melt by heat in to the fabri¢ under pressurc™ : t : It becomes oo] and hard both the fabric and interlining is attached in Garments: Fusing Proc Fusing process is one kinds of aliermative methéd of fabric joining which is, Jo attah the interlining. At present, apparel manufacturing cannot ~ ned without fusing process. As its importance, this article has ppresestted With its classification and defes vastly be im: a details discussion on fusing, pr panies i arments which are mentioned in ‘There are three types of fusing process used in the below: : 1. Reverse fusing, 2. Sandwich fusing, : 3. Double fusing. a3mcxinssoanernoy tient NIAAA ASIN All the ubove proghsses have explained in the following, 1. Reverse fusing In this process, theefabric of interlining is spread on the fusing bed and the part consists of resin is directed upward. Then the fabric of garments is spread on the resonated part of fabric and fusing is done there. This is called reverse fusing, In this: process, the arca of interlining is comparatively small than the fabric of a result proper spreading is difficult here apparel, a 2.Sandwich fusing: "+ Generallys fusing is done by continuous fusing machine where (he heal is applied from both sides of fabric. In this process, two pairs of fabrics are fused i.e: the two interlinings are placed between or in the middle of two fabrics of apparel. If the heat and pressure are not applied properly then four layers may be joined due té"the effect 6f striking back during fusing. By using this process, theproduction can be increased but needs more time, It may bave unsatisfactory in fused garments: : “ . Double fusing In this process, two types of interlining are joined with the garment fabrics in a step during fusing. There is needed to control the temperature during fusing and it must be able to set the interlinings parts and garment parts properly. This type of fusing is generally done in collar and the front part of jacket. Defects of Fusing Process: j 7 There are mainly two types of faults found during fusing. Those are explained in the below: pete 1. Striking back: . When bwo parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, itmust have the coftrol to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly during fusing so that the resin is: passed through the lower part of fabric. I is called striking back. 2. Striking through: When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing, it-must have the control to the temperature and pressure. Sometimes the pressure ‘id aasy eorprereconroneneeomanre ern a. c. “Pressure heat are not controllefl properly during fusing so that Use resin is passed through the upper part of fafic. It is called striking through. Fusing Process Regardless 6f which-fusible and machine are used, fusing is controtled by four processing, components ~ temperature, time, pressure and cooling and these have to be accurately combined in order to, achieve the oplinuint resul Temperature -° There is a limited range of temperatures that’are effective for each typeof ~ resin. Too high temperature causes the resin lo become too viscous, which could result in the resin being forced through the right side of the cloth: If the teniperature is too Jow, the resin is not sufficiently viscobs to disburse into the top cloth, In general, resin-melt temperatures range from 130°to. 160°C and the best results will normally oceur within +t 7°C of the temperature specified by the manufacturer of the fusible. Time ‘The only lime element of any value during the fusing process is when the top cloth and fusible are under pressure in ihe heating zone of thé machine. This time eycle for a particular fusible is determined by ‘Whether the fusible has a high or low melt resin, If'a light or heavy substrate is being used : “The nature of the top cloth being used, i.c. thick or thin, dense or open Manufacturers of fusible supply data sheets which give the time cyele for cach fagible, and this refers to-the actual fusing stage only. oth and fusible When the resin. is Viscous, pressure is applied to the top: embly to ensure that Full contact is made between the top. cloths and. fusible. Heat transfer is at the optimum level. There is an even penetration of the viscous resin into tbe fibres cloth. . Most fusing machines use two stect rolle’s.or pressure plates lo create pressure, but a Mexible pressure system bas béen developed which automatically adapts iigelf (o variations in the thickness of the assembly being fused, whilst maintaining an even pressure over the entirely assembly. Coolirig : Enforced cooling is used so that the fuséd assembliés can be handled immediately after fusing, Cooling can be induced by various systems, including water-cooled plates, compressed air circilation and vacuum. Rapidly cooling, the fused assemblies to 30° to — 35°C makes for a higher level of productivity than if operators have to wait for the assembiies io cool naturally. of th e top 45,scence “The fusing pybcess produces what is, in effect, the foundation of a { results can only be achieved when there is an accurate and garment and the by continual control 6f the four pros sing components. inery A press is used for fusing and three basic types are am press : Flat bed press Conveyor belt press h type of machine has its own range Of capabilities Steam press t - Regular stcam pressing machines are not designed for fusing although -some fusible are produced”for use on'these machines.”Pressing machines have some serious limitations regarding fasing including ~ Inability to reach thé heat levels required by the majority of resins... ‘The shape and size of the, bucks restrict the size of the components which carr be fused. Bea 7 7 Most utjlity. machines are not fitted with programmed corivols, whicl? mean thal the entire ptocess is operator controlled If the resin was originally activated by steam heat, the same tying can happen when garments are pressed during their production, This situation can cause serious problems with the stability of the laminates. 7 Regular steam pressing machines are not the ideal medium.for fusing, ‘lat bed press Flat bed presses are purpose built fusing machines produced in a large variety of sizes and which many types of work aids. This.type of press, has padded top and bottom bucks with clectric heating clements in one oF both bucks. The bottom buck is static ‘and the top buck is lowered to fuse the assembly whilst under pressure, and then raised after cooling. Most of these machines are fitted with mers and programmed controls and can achieve high levels of fusing quality: 16| Wy AUOU Conveyor belt préss ~~ Conveyor belt presses can be operated without siopping for the loading and unloading of the emblies. The conveyor belt transports the assemblies through all the processes and the belt speed is adjustable according to the time cycle required. — This type of machine is available in different lengths and widths and ean be fitted with automatic, feeding and unloading ¢ysiems. A featuré of the more n be programnied to control are also called continous machines because they modern machines is 4 migroprocessor which © every clement of the machines operation rte Ads Methods of F All the descriptions of the fusing pfoctsses that have been included shave represented it as a single piece of interlining, laid’ resin side down, on a single piéce of garment fabric ,taid right side down. This is referred to as single fusing and it is the safest in the sense that it is easiest to set the press conditions to achieve the correct temperature at the ghuc line. Some other methods of fusing in garment construction are Reserve fusing, Sandwich fusing, double fusing, sing 1. The challenge in Fusing Technology 2., Pusing methods ‘The challenge in Fusing Technology =. Modern fashion fabrics and interlinings are more delicate. + Fabrics are. generally finer and lighter. + ‘They are niore sensible to temperature and pressure. + They havé more tendencies fo shrinkage under temperature + Many fabrics are elastic, some in both directions. + Textile finish with softeners can effect fusing. + Modern fusible interlinings are lighter and thinn + There is more chance of strike back of resins. For a soft hand the resin quantity should be at minimum, Fusing methods Some: of tie variations will now be described and illustrating, them will demonstrate some of the method of garment construction that involves fusible interlinings. The main variations are:+ Reserve fufing: In this 1 It is sometfines used in with cleménts only in the top pla settings. + Sandwich fusing: This: is fusible. es method the outer fabric lies on top of t sing shirt and blouse collars. On flat bed ps ‘cn, it is necessary to adjust temperature clively carried out only on a horizontal continuous press where heal is applied both from above and below. Two pairs of components, forming two laminates, are fused together, “with the two outer fabrics on the outside of the sandwich (of four layers) and the hwo interlinings on the inside. With correct temperature settings, the glue Hine temperature may be achieved in both laminates but the potential f occurring and causing all the layers to adhere together, is strike-bas considerable. + Double Fusing: This is the fusing of two sorts of interlining to the outer fabric in one operation. It is most commonly used in shirt collars and t fronts, - Continuous Fusing Press Machine: It is the most common fusing machine ised ini the garments manufacturing ndustries, Garment component and interlining are first placed on the revolving, feed sheet of the contimous fusing machine, The revolving feed sheet caries the conipineits in the fusing chamber, where the components are transferred to another revolving flat sheet, The fusing chamber maintains the required fusing pair of pressure rollers, where emperature. Then the edmponents pass through a fusing pressure is maintained by the speed of the revolving sheet of the fusing chamber, Then the fused components are transferred to the revolving delivery sheet, One operator is continuously feeding and another operator continuously receiving, the fused components in the delivery side. Production is higher and fusing quality is reasonably good. Continuous Fusing Press Machine 48.py -areeseecrppentnmenncmserermener Features of Coxtinuous Fusing Machine: 1. ‘The machine consists of a fusing chamber with continuous belt or feed sheet : ~ 2, ‘The heating chamber is controlled by a switch, : 3, Two pressure rollers are in the fusing chamber and roller pressure are prodiiced by spring, or pnenmatic power and have condition fo inercase or decrease of required heat Working Principle: _ 1, In this machine, interlining is placed between two layers of the fabr and passed to the fusing chamber. 2. “In fusing chamber, the required heat and pressures ai ¢ applied. 3) Direct heating or indirect heating are applied for heating the interlining, ~ eee 4, After heating, required pressure are applied by two pressure rollers. 5.."Fhe fusing time is controlled by controlling the speed of feed sheet, : 6. When the fabric is taken out from thg-fusing chamber. ie Advantages: i 2. Mostly osed,in country. i + Higher production + Good quality fusing, = Very suilable for pilé fabric using. + No possibility of fabric shrinkage. + Disadvantages?! - + High cost. + Large space required. + Different bond strength of fused parts, Uses/Application: or the woven/knittéd fabrics fasing + Fusing for the whole roll of fabric and intertine. a9+ from cuit to pack. In thi epacepoensserensonscmnaren a= Pr ve Bundle System, Unit Production System, Modular Manufacturing, Piece Work, Production Planning \ 4 -4 Production Department: Selection of Production of € f PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT. ‘Thc production department is responsible for converting inputs into outputs throngh the stages 6f production processes. ‘The Production Manager is responsible for making sure that raw materials are provided and made into finished goods effectively, He or she must make sure that work is carried out noothly, and must supervise procedures for making work more efficient anit more enjoyable. Production systems are named according to the various factors, like- nurhber of machine are used to make a garment, machines layout, total numberof operators or tailors involved to sew a complete garment and number of pieces moving in a line during making a garment. As the fashion industry evolved and demand of readymade garments are increased, the need of mass production systems becomes the essential way to meet the market demand. Simply because tailoring shops are not able produce t nd supply across the world. Mostly used production systems are as following. . Make Through System When a tailor alone makes a complete garment, then it is called as make though systems, ‘The tailor even makes pattern (use ready-made pattern), cuts fabric and does finishing of the garmeni.: For example, tailors in the tailor shops do all jobs system tailors are not depended to others. Progressive Bundle System In Progressive bundle systém, cach operator does different operations ofa garment. All sewing machines needed to make the garment are laid ina Hine. Cut parts are fed in a bundle form. When an’ operator receives @ bundle of cut components, she opens the bundle and does ber operation (job) for all pieces of the bundle. After completing her job she moves the bundle to the sext operator who is doing next operation, Numbers of people are involved in sewing a single garment. Major benefits of this system are ~ as operators do only single or limited operation, their performances increases. Secondly, product consistency can be maintained garment to garment. Most of the export oriented garment manufacturers adopted progressive bundle system as a main production ~~ system. 50Section Production System rhis system is similar to the progressive bundle system. But the differen tat, instead of one line, work is divided into sections, Machines of similar operations ave clubbed together instead of spreading ayer 18 all ines. For example, when a man's formal shirt is being-made in 2 seeton layout ~ collars, ‘cuffs and sleeves are in the preparatory sections and then send tothe assembly section, This system is popular to improve line balancing and wtHization of human resources Modular Production $ In ‘Modular production system’ sewing operators work ag a team. Neither they sew complete garment nor do they sew only single operation Multi skilled operators form a group and each of the tear members do multiple operations. In eesclular system, operators help each other to finish the garment quickly and team is fully tesponsible-for quality.and production. In modular, always teats performance is measured instead of individual operator performance. This System is very successfell where quick response is needed. . eres One Piece Flow System Jnstead of making a bundle of multiple pieces, bundle is made with all components OF 2 single ¢ ewing, machines in One-pieee-flow system can te Tnid in alright line or wiodalar line, Main difference is thet, operator wil receive one piéce from back and move one piece to his next operator after completing his work, Benefits of One-piece-Flow system are Jess through put time, Less WIP in the line. Overhead Produétion. System (URS -Unit Production system) {hp overhead production system, garment components are clamped in a hanger ‘and the hanger moves on an overhead rail. In the hanger components ofa si piece is clapped So this is also one kind of single-picee-flow system Piece Rate Production System/ Piece Work Piece.rate system also one of the most popular production system 39 ‘small and unorganized factories. Though people called itpicce rate system, actually it is not a production system. Whatever Production system is used as mentioned above,-when operators are paid according their works (how many pieces produced), is namec-as piece rate system.eduction Planning Production planhing can be defined as the technique of fofesecing every step in a long series of separate operations, each step to be taken at the-right time and in the right place and each operation to be performed with maximum efficiency. It — ina way helps the organization to work out the quantity of material, manpower, machine, and money required for producing a predetermined level of output in a specified period of time. An outline of an apparel production cycle is shown in Fig 2 : - [Sig J) 4 erection. ff. Be [fem Tistination ay & mate | TY Tplaneing f) cutting esting Fig 2: Outline of an apparel production cycle Managing production in an organization mainly involves planning, organizing, directing, and controlling production activities. 1t deals with converting raw materials into Gnished goods along with proper decision making regarding the quality, quantity, cost, etc. involvéd in it. : ‘The basic planning process in apparel manufacture includes: + Receiving the order. + Proper planning to check if there is sufficient plant capacity is available to achive the delivery date specified. + Checking availability of cut parts and panels in the non sewing areas (cut embroidery if any,print, wash, and pack). + -Checking if there is ampTe time to order and receive fabric, trimis, approve sample, lab testing, ete. + Confirmation of the delivery date to the customer + Proper communication between departments for smooth flow “of the process, + Monitoring progress against plan. + Replan if required, 52goers NA NI EN snteeism 18 also. skills and dfficiency vary for different teams and ab ifa team nonmally makes Woven killed at However, s always taken into ackount. For instance, garments, a change to knilled ‘Tshirts means that they are less s Ihy there is a fall in the rate of production, which handling that item. Automat impaets planning, : rhe clothing industry is still very much dependent on human and processes. Now, with the ever~ labor, despite increasing, usage of automatic machine changing fashion market, which demands constant style changes, it becomes a challenge in achieving effi here is to have the same teani of operators workin possible, hence minimizing production foss, The planing, mast cies and optimizing operator skills, So the trick gon a similar type of product for as longa algo consider special areas where loading wight impact resourc apacity planning, while many of them are ts has its coms offer some and not user-friendly. Using spre: Most business ss not graphical, complex to ust flack of vanspacengy, not visual, camot be shared on a and difficuit to manage ish pwn drawbael network, which limits coordination, and is cumbersome with large orders acles companies can chang ‘To overcome, these obs! «Brom flow line production to production in cells, where there is mose ._ team work and more skilled labor, which saves time #-Just-in-time (JIT) approach to deal with the inventory. 2 Strategically having partners to gain short lead times: : » Service orientation rather than product orientalion, «Emphasis on accuracy of output than volume of output. + Long-term capacity planning | Short-term detailed planning, that is, planning of cutting room and sewing room activities. = Inventory control——raw material purchasing, finished goods, cte =. Critigal path control. ‘Themtanagenient must allocate HIRs ini the form of Planning Executive (PF), Merchandising Executive, Factory Planners, and Planners so that planning and control activities aré well carried out; The Planning Executive will Haise with customers and merchandising executives to establish requirements for this anges season and next; agree to delivery schedules as planned; respond to the el of consumer demand; allocating garments to \ ON’ ; that must be made’on the baans eRERepIRR SERNA ANETTA appropriate faciorifs to achieve customer requirements and control of critical path. ‘The factory planner takes information from the Planning Executive and worl on them in the factory, such as scheduling and sequencing, work Jin delivery dates; working closely with the production department at the factorys tiaising with fabric suppliers for procurement of fabric. The planner does the detailed planning of work for each line as per the customer information — supplied; purchasing, of fabric and trimmings; loading the cutting room in times - production control, thal is, (o ensure that quantities ordered mateh with the eut quantities Before a garment cah go onto the production line, there is a nige amaunt of pre- production activity that must take place. Sometimes it is done as specified by. customer or on a general basis. Activities are allocated to individuals who can cross-examine them before sending them to the sewing floor, for example, label information, wearer trials, quality seals, and fabric.approval. By doing this « where the product is on the the it becom planning board and where it needs to be pushed forward or backward, and hence . mainiain a critical path to attain the target. If by any case the production is delayed by some weeks or days, the problem is highlighted on the planning board. So the PE. must postpone the start date and try 16 éxpedite the pre- r the planning department to tf production process. eee irvive in the race for ‘Therefore, only the fittest aitd Ieanés! organizations s manufacturing quality apparel in the desired time by working efficiently, cost - effectively, responsively, and flexibly. UNIE-5 Finishing &Pressing Department, Trimming Department, Packing Department Finishing department: In the apparel manufacturing industry, finishing department play the vital role for producing complete garments. After completing the sewing performance, garments are passing, to the finishing section / departinent to get the finishing touch, defects free and high quality garment due - to inspection.9 i bing is an important contributing f the position ofa Finishing and. packg - product in the maskft. Presenigion of the product by packaging becoming a istinctive marketing instrument, Finishing and packaging could be considered as the silent si}esman of the product Garment Finishing ec of packed garments those are ready for sale Finishing is the last ¢ whole garmen Therefore, it. is one of the most important slages 1 g In a garment industry finishing section involves wit” pressing, packing, ete. Proper aiid make on time order ~ — nanufacturing, process. garment washing, checking, final “inspection, finishing process can be improved quality of garment “shipment. Major Functions of Garments Finishing. | There are 4 major Fenctions of garments finish are as follows- ; 1. Washing 2. Checking 3. Pressing : 4, Packing, 7 1, Garments Washing: ! Let me elaborate the same, once garments out from sewing machine fist step : swetake generally which is washing. To wash bulk garment.we follow the Buyer + comments, we wash the garments as per. Buyer requireinént like if they want : Normal wash then we do the same using only water. Tf Buyer needs soft hand feel or chemical wash on a garment then we use chemical diuring washing, 2. Garments Checking: ‘After washing 2nd function is checking, once garments come from the washing Gepastment for checking depariment,-then a eam Starts to check garments, whether stitching is properly done or is there any spots on the garment, If they Find any spot they remove'it using chemicals and if there is a major stitching problem they return back it to sewing department to rectify the same, 3. Garments Pressing: Now the 3rd function is pressing (Ironing) once garment comes to pressing department pressmen siart pressing following required measurements and Buyercree respi mn comments. If Buper needs hard press, Nat or light s pressing done by pressmen 4. Garments Packing The last function is packing buy before start packing QA team check the measurements of garment, whether it’s OK or not, so that they can be sure garments will pass during final inspection. Aficr measurements sequired accessories like (ag, alarm or sticker to be used during individual packing. those packed garments to be packaged in a carton as per When packing done Buyer instructions and its ready for final inspection to dispatch What is pressing? Pressing Or -ironing is the most important finishing process in reagymade garments segtor which is done by subjecting a cloth to heat and pressure with or “without steam to remove unwanted creases and to impart a flat an appearance to” > 3 the garments: Préssing or ironing also done to introduce creases in the apparel In the garmentsmanu roning. * facturing industries, pressing is ermed as Categories of Pressing or Ironing Applied in Garments Industreys, « ng, or ironing of garment i8 categorized into five according to the types, tlesigns and materials are given below 1. No pressing, 2. Minimum peéssing, Under pressing, A, Binal pressing, 5, Permanent pressing. 1. No pressing or ironing: “There are some garments which has not thé’need of pressing such as underwear, briefs, and swim wear. ‘These types of garments are made by knitted fabric. 2. Minimum pressing or ironing: Some garments are available which need finishing done by applying beat but no need of pressure such as’ night-gowns, knitfed T-shirt, Leisure wear and so’ on. “These types of. garments are pressed by steaming and by. flowing dry air to the garments called minimum pressing. - ee«his 3. Under pressing off ironing: Fo complete sewing easily and beautifully, it must require Bivins minimum ironing to some parts of garments before sewing is called under pressing Especially under pressing is done to most of the appare} industries for ma coat, jacket, and trouser and so on, For example, where there 1s needed for doing crease effect to the parts of garments done by ironing before sewins, King, 4. Final pressing or ironin| he final pressing, is done by applying heat and pressure to the garments. THK is» done alter making of garments. This is, gengrally done in jacket, trouser, skirt nd s0 on. Special types of pressing machine are used here for final pressing. 5, Permanent pressing or ironing: a special type of pressing or ironing, when it of apparels or special conditions. Example: dirt and pleat which cannot be displace or drawn off after washing of garments again. This type of ironing 1s done by applying high temperature and stcamr-Sometimes there is needed for pressure. 's given to retain the sbape ‘Types of folding methods: here are two types of folding methods. They are + Flat pack folding + Hanger pack folding 3. Packaging: -~ 7 ‘There are two types of packaging are used in apparel industry. They are Merchandising packing: - a ‘A merchandising packing must be designed to moet Js of the retaile} and the desires of the customer. Shipment packing: The Shipment packing performs the distribution function. It should be in a position to protect and preserve the quality of the product.ve] 7 f + Liner board must be wet strength : + Telescopic carton must have a minimum of 175 pound per square inch sessment Carton mater bursting strength for the lop, 120 pound per square inch for the t + Flutes per linear foot of corrugation must be 50+ 3 with a height af 3/32 = inches (0.238 eniy + Metal stapie should not be used in the Formation of the box Carton marking & labelling: 7 Complete carton content, information to be located on slides in the carton. Main mark: 5 + Address mformation _ ¢_Carton number + Style/size/puantity : = Country of origin ete, + Carton meastirement Side mark : +) Color names. : : + Gross weight +, Net weight + Carton dimensions etc Carton’ security: + Strapping. + Taping 5, Customer researeh about product: Customer research + wo. “ Teo expensive cost Lown qatity 4 Deseerated sales satisfaction Lost of reputation Lost of sales 606. Inspection: Inspection is the fufiction to judge the quality product, Inspection is the process tablished, of measuring the quality ofa product or service ia terms of andards. Pressing and packaging inspection: Some objectives of pressing and packaging inspections arc 1M below: To ensure that garments measure the buyer's specifications within the allowed tolerance after pressing «To ensure finished garments have to no loose threads or blemishes and are press to give an acceptable appearance according to the customer specificalidins. 5 To ensure the garments are folded andpacknged to the customer's specifications. ‘To ensure the correct packagiiig items have beca used, > “Po ensure the garment is an acceptable appearance alter packaging + To ensure‘all inner boxes contain the correct quality per size & color and - that the boxes contain the correct number of cartons and display the correct marking: Inspection procedure: Select at random from the packaging section a quantity of shitl as per the sample plan: Remove the shist from the polybag and mez ‘folded size & tic-space is the correct width. From the P.O or.the packaging specification chart, unfold the garment and check that all the packaging items have been used as specified. « Record on the inspection from any items that are found missing, Visually inspect the garment for its overall appearance, giving particular attention to the critical arcas, i.e. collar, pocket and also the matching of stripes & plaid. a If any defect is found a green Q.C sticker must be put on the garment and the details recorded on the inspection form. The defective garment should then be passed to the pressing supervisor for corrective action, After have unfolded the garment, meastire it to ensure {he size tolerat allowed after pressing. It is refer to buyer’s specification for the measurement point «| Ifa garment is rendered as reject, then @ red Q.C sticker must be put on the garment and the garment again.passed to. the pressing supervisor. 7 All details must be recorded on the inspection form, gure t ensure it is'the correct © 61Final cheeking fr pressing/ folding: + Checking4f there is any bum or scorch mark. + Any shine surfa + Improperly pressed garment affecting overall appearance + Incorrect folding methods and + Hanging and loose threads. + No proper,drying prior to packaging, + Incorrect packaging, items nal checking for packaging/labelling: + Check labels against purchase order information + Style/color + Size. Z - : + Purchase ofder number. + Quantity + UPC sticker. + International cas + Conntry of origin + Final destination (Address only) Dartn ntishber, > marking (diamond marks) Some common problems of packaging: + Incorrect barcode tickels (hangtags) attach to garments. + Incorréct counting of garments. + Incorrect loading of garment on to containers. "Thread ‘Trimming: a In stitching department thread Uails and thread chains are not trimmed neatly. Uncut threads and thread tails in garments are trimmed in the finishing -department by helpers, Uncut and loose threads on garments are considered defect Pressing Pressing is.a finishing process done by a cloth to heat and pressure with or without steam to remove creases and to impart a flat appearance to the cloth or garments. In garment industries pressing is also called ironing. After completing pressing the garments have to be folded. 62J oseereerenqroprenmneancenemmmananmnt Pressing, Folding After completing pressing, the Garments are folded according to the buye garments are folded with a predetermine area. 5 direction, requirements in a standard area: Folding c are mainly four types fication dependé on the fabric t Folding clas of folding. They are~ Stand up: Collai is folded and situated at 90* angle Semi stand up: Collar is folded with body and situated at 45 degree anghe 63Semi stand up Fat arated as a hole on the body of shirt. Flat pack Hanger pack: shirt is packed and transported by hanging on the banger. Manget pac 6ackel Atihe end of the wage, garments are placed into a polythene pa / Packing Afier folding, garr Specially, it is peeded to ensure the ple 5 are packing the size of polythene packet is permanent F sticker in proper place. ae > Barcode i Barcode is a's i | I) 2 # Barcode Assortment 7 After completing the packing of garments, it must be placed the garments to a garments arc predetermined pack by Sorting according to the size and ¢olor then and color. This process working in packed into inner box according to the size order is called assortmentMetal Check Checkirig the metal type like button, zipper ete. i omponent into the garments or with its accessories ‘alled metal check. Metal Check Cartooning At last cartooning or packiig the pro} jacking’ of inner boxes The carton is properly warped by the scot estination are printed on the carton. arments a¢cording to Buyer comment, The ntored into the carton is called cartooning. ich tape. Some information like carton box no, size, shipping mark and the diPeace Final inspection Final inspection is nade by buyer. He checks th rules like AQL. ne garments according some Final inspection. , Spot Removing Spot removing is one of the special inspegtions which are done altor initial quality check. Spot removing 1 Engincering- Method Study and Work Standard ‘Time Calculation, Balancing UNIT. Study, Erg Industrial E. ‘An Industrial Engines any probleéins which come up wh been designed by Design Engineers. 673. Increase profitability. 4. Increase jolf security. 5. To make the work easier 6. Establish fair task for everyone. 7. Check achievements against standard Work Study & ‘The management Work-study definition ‘Techniques of work-study Basic procedure of work-study Characteries of work-study Method study Motions Work measu Time study ‘Critical examination technique PRIMARY & S + Select avhere (o start + Productivity + The task of managentent Basic & total time Poor design & + Inefficient methods + Human resource + Reduction of exes ‘The qualified worker fication PRE-PRODUCTION ACTIVITY et sample making + Pre-production meeting. + Break down Layout Machine & work process flow chart PRODUCTION FOLLOW UP + Cycle check + Bottle neck Line balancing 2ASSLT TT TT crepe egonoraeere 4 + ‘Production stugy 4 + Method study 7 Benefit of Work Study - » 1. Hincreases productivity at cheap cost 2. It is a systematic and comprehensive inethod of analyzing, a problem. So Tow fartor is overlook in evahiating the problem and finding out the : solution 7 3. Tecan be easily sad quickly implemented ae 4.1L provokes benefit as sown as it js applied and continues UHL Lis in use. ‘ 5. Tt can reduce hazard by developing made of work. 7 G. Its the most accurate method of setting time. of performance upon which 7 ‘chiective planning and production control relies upon 7. Production quota can be determined for daily or hourly workers. , 8. Production capacity of a mill or-machine canbe determined. Wowehart of Working Process: Sample collection from biyer/merchandiser 1 : ECE : Preparing of operation bulletin. . i A Prepare a machine Jayout L Monitoring the Jine situation. : : t “Time study anid-balancing, a | Individual operation follows up. 4 : s cy, daily report _ ; 1 . ‘ Daily Jost time analysis : Defining Standard Time Staridard Time (also referred to as the andard Minute Value” or “SMV"), is, the lithe required for a.qualified ‘worker working at “Standard. Performance” to perforin a given task+~The SMV includes additional allowances-for Rest and Relaxation, Machine Délay and anticipated Contingencies. . B \ge UNE LTT ‘The SMV is the ujiversal measurement of time and its accuracy and consistency is esgential as the foundation for measurement and organisation of key business pro€esses such as Production Targets, Line Balancing, Production Planning, Incentive Schemes, and the quantification of Operator Performance and Factory Efficiency. . Standard Allowed Minute or Standard Minute Value (SAM or SMY) is an important factor in garments manufacturing industry. Production rate can be calculated by using it, But Standard minutes (SAM or SMV) estimation is not a tough task that we have normally Seemed. As its importance on seady made garmenis industry, today 1 will present here the estimation method of SAM or SMV. Standard Minute Value: SMV is defined as the time which. is allowed to perform a job satisfactorily. Normally it is expressed in minute value. The full elaboration of SMV is Standatd Minute Value. SMV term is broadly used in the garments: manufacturing industry. SMV is also known as Standard Allocated Minute (SAM), For-smooth and finely shipment an export order aamerchandiser need to proper,SM Vet up ia garnicnts production oor SM Caleuldtion in Garments Industry: . In garments industry, SMV calculation differ accounting to the number of operations, seams length, types of fabric, number of workers, machine efficacy ete. - General formula of SMV is given below- SMV= Basic time + Allowance a Where, 7 ic time= Observed time X Rating/ 100 Allowance: Relaxation allowance + Contingency allowance + ‘Machine Delay Allowance. Rating= the pace or speed of operation at which the operator is performing the Job. Observed time can be found by the time necessary to. complete an operation. “This observed time caleullated By stop wateh. Rating is an evaluation of 74reese EDR TRAE ERT efficiency. This rattigh is done by the operator who is performing the job. It can be measured by an qoserver who experienced in specific job which is beng observed. Factors of Standard Minute Value in garments: Standard Minute Value of garments depends upon They are as following: a good number of factars + ‘Type of garmenis, +, Types of fabries + | Garments size + Garments design +, Difficulty of thepiscesses +, Types of machine «Types of technology : 7 RGONOMICS fined as a sciénee which deals with the systematic. study action betwéen man, machine Sworking environment or Ergonomics is the study of the interaction of worker & theirwork énvironm -gonomics may be d of the relationship & i cal ‘The word” ERGONOMICS” is derived from the Gréck word “ERGON? & ‘NOMOS?’ means the Jaw of work. Today, iti erally called the science of fitting the job to the worker,& concer the field of the human operator & his working environment. ican therefore be seen that it covers a very wide ficld & may be applied at the initial design stage of product design. ‘The meaning of Ergonom ew of us have a good Exgoriomics is a topic that affects ws all; yet understanding of what the term actually means or realise how it affects us. Ergonomics is a science that focuses on designing a job for the worker. Exgonomically-cesigned job would ensure that a taller worker had enough space to safely perform his or her job, and also that a shorter worker could reach all of his or her tools and products without reaching beyond a comfortable and safe range. ‘The opposite of this, and what typically happens in tlie workplace, js that a worker is forced to work within:the confines of the job or workstation that is, already existed. This may require’employees to work in awkward postures, perform the same motion over and.over again, or lift heavy loads ~ all of which +75ae EEE LTTE could cause workytclated mus preventing inju uloskeletal disorders. Ergonomics aims at rigs by controlling the risk factors such as force, repetition, posture, and vibration that can cause injuries to develop. Hiness and inj + 10% 01's + 35% rope + 28% hav + 81% repo + 1% + 5% repar spor uries among textile workers ewing machine ojferators using foot controls report back pain ort persistent lower back pain sulfered a compensable cumulative trauma disorde: orted CTDs to the wrist : ad CTDs to the elbow ted CTDs to the shoulder (CTb) + 49% of workets experience neck pains + Absenteeism in + Loss of worker foree due to injuries or high turnover is working, ases as working conditions worsens associated with conditions - “Hand Sewing and trimming are stressful to upper limbs + Stitching hands +. Ironing, by hanttis » Garment wrisls, = “Foot ope Some fundame workplaces are: houlders, wrists, and tasks aréassociated with pain in the s sociated with elbow pain assembly tasks are associated with CTDs of the bands and sated sewing is associated with pain in the back tal ergonomic principals that should be followed in our + Proper tools. - Keep repetitive motions to minimum Avoid awkward postures + Use safe + Get prop lifting procedures er rest. LINE BALANCIN( Line balancing allocation of operation and helpe production can is known as the systematic arrangement of machines and ny a-sewing line in-such a way that smooth * ible with minimizing the idlé time. In the-garments be po industry, Line balancing is known allocation of sewing machines, according to the garments pattern and design. Thé line arfangement of sewing machine depends on whi at types of garments manufacture in sewing floor. Proper fine balancing jn an apparel industry may increase productivity. 76Rennes Line Balancing is leyelling the workload across all processes in a cell or value traint slows. the stream to remove bottlenecks and excess. capacity. A con nd resulis if waiting for downstream operations And excess n process d capacity resolts in wai Line Balancing in apparel industry IL is the allocation of sewing machine, according to style and design of the garments. It depends on what fypes of garments we have to produce, 11 is davie to increasing productivity, or set of } WI s production, garments are produced in lines machine! you consider m instead of single machine. A line may be assembly line, modular line or section, a line set with online finishing and packing, A line includes multiple work stations with varied work contents. Production per hour is varied depending on-work content (staitdard minutes of particular task/operation), allocation of total manpower to a particular operation, operator machine capacity. Operation with lowest production per hour is called as bottleneck operation for that line.” Objectives of Line Balancing Match.the production rate after all wastes have be cach process of the value stream removed to the talk time at Regular material flow. Maximum uses of man power and machine capacity. Minimum process time. Minimizing slack time. Minimizing workstation Maximum output at the desired time. Quality maintenance of the garment Rwy SONaA LS NLR RENIN SE a ee ce profluction cost Importance of Line Balancing 1. Line balancing helps to know about new machine required for new style. 2. It becomes easier to distribute particular job to each operator : 3. It becomes possible to deliver goods at right.time at the agreed quality for list cost 4, Good Line balancing increase the rate of production 5. Ling balancing helps te compare the required machinery with the existing ori¢ and compare balance. It also hetps in the determination of labor requirement Good balancing reduces’ production'time. Profit of a factory can besensurcd by proper line balancing, Proper line balancing ensured optimum production.at the agreed quality. 10.ft reduces faults in the finished produet wee Example of Line Balancing 1. Machine layout with actual production + Process]. Production 40 pieces by | machine end production 40 pieces. + Process#2. Production 45 pieces by | machine end prodyction AO pieces. « - Processi#3, Production 75 pieces by | machine end production 40 pieces. + Process##4, Production 80 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces + ' Process#f5. Production 50 pieces by | machine end production 40 pieces. Output: 40pices/hour, Insufficient production due to lack of supply. Analy: 2. Machine layout for balancing production. 78eater RETEST Analysis: Action plan for further development Replace skilled of experienced operator for processif3, then production will increase, when production will be 8Qpices/hour. Then same target 90pices for précess!, 3 & 4 and research on it, how production can be inereased. ‘The “following action can be done. Limitations of Line Balancing were designed so that conveyor belts paced the speed of 1. Production fini ted by the the employees” work. ‘This arrangement wasn't appre employees. 2. Inevitable changes lead to production lines being: out of balance. : 3. Rebalancing can: . UNIT-7 Apparel accessories & components: laste: supports materials, decorative trims, tapes & packing material Garment Accessories: . . Fr making a garment without fabric various types of materials or items are also ¥ iuséd. Accessories are one of them important material to manufacture a-garment. F But maximum people don’t identify which aré- accessories, They think trimmings and accessories ate same. We can défine trimmings is; the materials which are attached with garments by sewing are called trimmings 79Fig: Collar stay” a Draw stying: Draw cord or draw string isa long rope-type item with stopper to lighten a part of the garment Hang tag: Ht shoivs the-brand name, élyle nojand other information of that ~~ garment. It is regarded as finishing accessories. It is hang with garment by plastic staple or string Fig: Hangiag used for hanging the garments, It is important for hang shirt, Hanger: Hanger coat and also different kinds of garments Fig: Hanger 82. Pocket Masher: Pos yf flasher is normally used in Houser’s pocket a garment, Without Poly ‘as Poly ly bag is an important accessory or packing 5 not complete. Fig: Poly bag Price tag/ticket also known as UPC (Unit price code) ticket in the jletitions price and bare Price apparel industry. Its paper-made tag which nornally code) Barcode sticker may be altached separately on it Fig: Prive t “Tag pin: Tag pin is an important accessory. IL is essential for completing a garment. It is used by the help of handgun. Handing the hanglag and price tag, tag piri used. 83‘Trin ‘Trimmings or tr materia garm asst aeeONSEIT muning nents, These are scars . are attached with the body of garments by sewing. These are used in sewing room with fabric. Trims are directly attached with sed for functional purposes List of tims used in apparel maifufacturing: 1 2 3 4 5 6. 7. & 9. Sewing Thread Button Zipper Lining Interlining, Motif Rivet Stopper Tice 10.Braid I 1 ' LElastic 2.All type’ of Label houlder pad 14,Hook & Loop I 1 I 2 2 2 2 2. 2 2 2 2 2! 3 5.Twill tape 6.Velcro tape 7.Scam Sealing tape 18.Showide ape 9.Busing material 0,Crochet LRib 2.Pom pom 3, Wadding, 4,.Ribbon 5.Metal Badge '6.Down 7. String/Draw Cord 8.Piping Cord 9.Emblem 0. Logo Print 31.Swivel Hook 3. 3 2, Byelet/ Grommet 3.Collar Stay 34.Cord Bell 35. Buckle36.Weaving Belt 37.Cable (steel ware) 38.Adjuster 39Recco Et ‘The materials or components except the main fabric used in the garments arc des the main fabric, various additjonal things jude Sewing-Thread, Button, ories. Bes garments. Accessories : called garment access ave used for making, the | Shoulder pad, J ining; ssories and invisible access nid some are lordecorative * Interlinings, etc. Accessories are Zipper, Velcro, Label Some 1 . of bvo types namely visible a accessories are used for functional parpo purposes. ~ . pes of. ace + Visible accessories can be seen from outside of the thread, Zipper, Velero, ete. + Visible accessori garments e.g, Button, Sewing’ 7 «Invisible accessories: They cannot be seen from outside of the garments : e.g, Interlining, » . Sewing thread: & Almost all garments produced have one component inv common; the sewing : thread. Whilst sewing thread is usually a relatively a small percentage of the cost of garments, it has gin extremely significant influence on the appearance and durability of the finished product. The production of sewing thread is an extensive and complex subjecSowing thread ‘Types of sewing thread + ctical purposes, sewing threads for clothing industry can be divided into For pr three broad groups; Cotton, Synthetics and Core spun. ‘Thread size ° ‘There are many systems for defining thread s system is “Tex”, This is based on the gram weight of 1000 m of yarn, So a fine thread would have a low “Tex? number and a thick thread would have a high ‘stems wil provide the Tex e'vot the most'Widely used =” “Tex? number.’ Thread manufacturers using oth equivalent values. Button: In clothing and fas shaped, typically round, object usually attached to an article of clothing in order to secure an opening, or for ornamentation. Functional buttons work by slipping” the button through a fabric or thread loop, or by-sliding the button through a reinforced slit called a buttonbole. Buttons may be masiufactured from an such as antler, or knob- jon design, a button is a-sinall plastic.or metal disc: extremely wide range of materials, including natural material bone, horn, ivory, shell, vegetable ivory, and wood; or synthetics such as celluloid, ass, metal, Bakelite and plastic. Hard plastic is by far the most common material for newly manufactured buttons; the other materials tend to occur only in premium apparel 86eee se tami 7 Button “Rivets i Rivels are not used to open oF el used for following purposes: se the opening parts.of garments, They are c and reinforcement (support) purposes of : = Widely used for decorati Denim or Jeans garment = “Tthas two part quires an appropriate device to attach on garments . 7 Rivets : Hook and loop fastener (Velcro): This item consists of wo woven polyamide tapes; one is covered with very fine hooks.and the other with very fine loops. When pressed together they adhere (stick) securely to cach other. This fastener is also used instead of buttons or inventor made this product and he offered the trade name ench words ‘Velour, and noes, belts, pers. A Swis "Velero” for it, This word comes from two Fr ‘Crochet’. It is used in only a limited number of garments e.g. sportswear, children wear, medical textiles, ete, Velero is available in roll form in the market which has most common width of 5/8 to 3/4 inch 87Pipperce ae ea A zipper (British English: 2ip fas temporarily joining two edges of fabric, I is used in clothing (e.g, ja jeans), luggage and other bags, sporting goods, camping gear (c.g, tents and This is one kind of accessories used to tener or zip) is-a popular device for sand sleeping bags), and other daily use items open and close of some special parts of'a garment. It is sometime also use for cls, this is ary essential decorative purposes, in makingtrouscr and ja componcitt CR 61 Zipper cy 7 64 3 Label: : . Labe] is an attached component of garment of}which important information ° = ‘ regarding the garment are wiittén or printed) No garment can be sold without some kind of label attached to it Speciafly, in case of export busine: el on Ht +t, For example: the size of garment, trade mark, country of garment is mu origin, type of ‘aw materials, et¢.'are written on label. ‘There are mainly. thre types of label: ; ; 88GAP, Lewis red by the-buyer 6:8, Levi's, Polo, Adidi _which.is regis 5 >... Philippe, etc 5 + Size label: It indicates the size of. the garme M, L, XL, XXL, or collar Jength of shirt 15, 16, 17, 'Syetc ions of the girmént by some 3, dry. label: It contains,thé care instru internationally recognized-signs, It shows the washing;-

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• Fear: Trump in the White House

  

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• The Light Between Oceans: A Novel

  

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  The Unwinding: An Inner History of the New America

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  Rating: 4 out of 5 stars

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• Manhattan Beach: A Novel

  

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  Manhattan Beach: A Novel

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  Rating: 3.5 out of 5 stars

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• The Constant Gardener: A Novel

  

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  Rating: 3.5 out of 5 stars

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  Rise of ISIS: A Threat We Can't Ignore

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  Rating: 3.5 out of 5 stars

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• Little Women

  

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  Rating: 4 out of 5 stars

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