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    Basics of Kniting by Vasant Kothari PDF

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    A Series of Articles On Basics of Knitting By Vasant Kothari www.vasantkothari.com INDEX ti Basics of Knitting - Introduction a Basic Terminologies 3. Knitting Machine Needles 4, Basic Elements of Knitting 5, Knit, Tuck & Miss Stitch 6. Weft Knitting op. Knitting Loop Structure & Notations 8, Single Jersey & Rib Fabric 9. Purl & Interlock Fabric 10. Straight Bar Knitting Machine i. Flat Knitting Machine 12. Circular Knitting Machine 13: Warp Knitting 14. Warp Knitted Fabrics 15. Warp Knitting Machine 16. Tricot Machine 17. Raschel Machine 18. Compound Needle Machine 19. Yarn Requirements for Knitting 20. Knitting Fabric Quality Parameters ais Defects in knitted fabrics a2, Testing of Knitted Fabrics 23. Production Calculations 24. Costing Of Knitted Fabrics 25. Processing of Knitted Fabric 26. Relaxation of Knitted Fabric 2 Development Process of Knitted Fabric 28. Sourcing of Knitted Fabric 29, Garment Manufacturing of Knitted Fabrics 30. Seamless Knitting © copyright 2011 VASANT R KOTHARI www.vasantkothari.com Ha Wid eee ie Neh ay Basics of KNITTING - An introduction VASANT R KOTHARI -has done Masters in Textiles Technology from DKTE’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji (Shivali University, Kolhapur), Maharashtra, He has also done Diploma in Export management (Apparel Export) from the Indian Institute of Export Management, and Garment Export and Merchandising Management from NIFT, Bangalore. Presently, he’s working as an Assistant Professor in Department of fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore. (This is his first input from the series of articles that will be published in upcoming issues of knitting Views) 20 KNITTING VIEWS/IANUARY-FFIRUARY 20D Kz is the second most frequently used method of fabric ‘oustiuction, The term “Knitting” describes the technique of constructing textile structures by forming a continuoas length of yar into columms of vertically imermeshed loops. Keitted fabrics have been g thanks to the increased versatility of techniques and adaptability of the many new manmade fibres. Knitted fabrics are now widely used in the applications where woven fabrics fommerly predominated, Today, the usage of and other home furnishings. ining popularity during the past wo decades, ted fabrics ranges from hosiery, underwear, sweaters, slacks, to mgs Why knits are popular? Koitted fabries are popular today because: + Iris usually soft and drapes well + Trmoldsand moves easily with body movement + has good stretch ability + Irresists wrinkles ‘+ Most importantly, knits rlate well o contemporary lifestyles History From the beginning the art of kni Traditional hand knitting, using knitiing needles or pins, has been was an occupation for women, practiced for thousands of years. The earliest example of true knitting is ‘pair of knitting socks found in Egypt, dating back to 1100 A.D -justover 9 centuries ago! Socks and stockings were knitted because they had to be shaped to the foot or leg. By the 16th century kniting had advanced into a craft, the first rel evidence of a production knitting machine was the stocking frame, invented by the Reverend William Lee in 1589. The invention laid the foundation for the development of knitting technology. Lee's invention enabled the knitting of loops at 10 times the speed of nal hand pin knitting adit Difference between knitting and weaving ‘The major difference between knintad and woven structures les inthe way the yarns are interconnected gcometrically. In weaving ‘wosets of parallel yarns are interconnected by ineslacing them at right angles, Different woven structures are produced by varying this basic principle In niuing, the yarns ae intially formed into loops, and then these loops are interconnected in a. variety of ways in order to proclucea textile structure, Based on this principle a textile fabric is produced by using only one set of yarns. We Csetig amin icy | Canverting erin inetcenetofwap duet iron tg iting leeds Treeapiatiesmenshigh | Capalinvestmen sus ower Nove ampund withing | Satins upamatine enya fate Les diniy igh psbiviy Designmaifieonisdticut | Sesanidesan cantechaged cay ani fiter Lesexsnitiy ighelaticnsvay Highesenitiy Incomplete exvery Highowe ive Lnssorsersiter Genel iit Faber UFortesime arco) Fertesneyanont) Exg tier Dicdtotesr Rogar ing Incingnstegied ighpeatsharpness Lessplatshapnes Lespermebiiy wai Me penebdn toi Sages Lessors Marrigdasconprat Fedoftefticsoier Nowehpblons Ary sal dfetoosmingine bic ca kealtotrterdiagein tects Jrexsitcanetlenenislosly lym ditional aie AAs aresult of this intetooping of yams, the structure ofa weit or ‘warp knitted fabrics more open when compared the truce of awoven fabric, Because of this inte oping of yams, knited fabric could be stretched more than a woven fabric, even when only a small force is applied. Onee this force is eased the fabric slowly refums to its original dimensions, Infact, weft and warp ‘ie fabvies have hi duc to thei strctue, and ther clastic hchaviur generally exceeds + elongation valves than woven fabrics the clastic properties ofthe yams used to ait the fabric www.vasantkothari.com KNITTING MEWS JANUARY.FBIRUARY 2710/21 Due tothe structure and good elastic behaviour of knitted fabrics ‘knitted garments are comfortable to wear. The at trapped inthe loops of akrited garment insulates the human body against cold ‘Atte same time the relatively loose and open stucture aids in the perspiration process of the human body. especially when the ‘ented fabric is made of yarns spun fom natural ites: Due wo the ierlooping of yams, the knited fabrics also have better crease rex eringFreperies compare to fabrics wavenfcm simi yan assification of knitted fabrics “The knitting industry is divided into two distinct sectors, weft Jentting and wap knittin Welt knitting In weft knitting, the loops are formed across the width of the fabric, and each welt thread is fed more or less at aright angleto the direetion in which the fabric is produced. It is possible 10 knit with ‘only one thread or cone of yarn, though production demands have resulted in circular ‘weft knitting machines being manufactured with ‘upto 192 threads Warp knitting Warp Kaiting is method of producing a fabric by using needles fo those used in weft knitting, but with the kritted loops made from each warp thread being formed dlowa the length of the fabric: the loops are formed vertically dawn the length of the fabric from one thread as ‘opposed to across the ‘width of the fabric, asin ‘case of weft knitting. 22st TENG VEWS/IANUARY-FEBRUARY 2010 WET KNIT WARP KNIT ‘Cusewieyamfedig Wide isang ‘npn “inptedr esordge “elapse aac | ‘hebepirleroty eth ivi ovo eleghtane Noollsiteenily Nalobitesearaa Pocleiarhonyan | Nile Gneaciecermamh | Ghebygbernrrnbf wal | sapbemsyaary listen yas | Ody flaem yamseanbe cantonal saath ed Namayitheiesied | tach halons ae er | ey Cingnstein tithes | Changed dette ps Reltvely ntcomstrtan | Cansei gy pri sailor quay product Lupsxe mtn Lop acwif Swechinbohdneson | Seinen Benin kwsaie Device a eee seenste umingcosisles umigsssih Sixyanivoginl desis) | Stongyanisgl (ore) Sout Fema dion Snularypezeguionens | Noalmaespae Eg Cookrkoitg mins | Eg Tota acing (Compared with warp kiting, weftkniting isa more versatile method of fabric production in temns of both the range of fbi stuctures| that can be procucel and the yar types that can he utilise. Weft -itng isthe simplest metho of convesting a yam ino fbi. Ta warpkniting, each warp trea fs more olessin Fine withthe lirvetio in which the fabric & produced. and each needle inthe ‘iting width must be fed with least ne thread at each eure ‘Compared to weaving and welt Knitting iis the fastst method of converting yam into fabric, though modem developmen in weit ‘kiting machines mean tht there is now very litle difference in terms of pmction between the two forms of knitting Basic terminologies for fabric knitting VASANT R KOTHARI - has done Master's in Textiles Technology from DKTE's Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji (Shivaji University, Kolhapur), Maharashtra, He has also done Diploma in Export Management (Apparel Export) from the Indian Institute of Export Management, and Garment Export and Merchandising Management from NIT, Bangalore. Presently, he's workingasan Assistant Professor in Department of Fashion Technology NIFT, Bangalore. (Thisis his second input from the series of articles in knitting Views) 22 RATING VIE MARCH-APRIL 200 ‘Machine knitting Knitted structures are progressively built-up fromnow aller row of intermeshed loops. The newly-fed yarn is converted intoa new loop in each needle hook: ro ‘The necille then draws the new loop headfirst through the old (fabric) loop. which it has retained from the previous kniting eycle ae ‘Thencales atthe sametime, release, (cast-off or knock ‘over) the old loops so that they hang suspended by ‘their heads from the fet ofthe new loops whos: heads are sil held inthe hooks ofthe needles A cohesive knitted loop structure is thus produced by a combination of the imermeshed needle loops and yam that passes fem needle loop to noedle loep. "The knited loop structure may wot always ‘he noticeable because of the effect of structural fineness, fabric distortion, additional patern threads othe masking cffect o ishing processes Knitted loops are arranged in rous, roughly equivalent co the weft and wap ‘of woven strctures. These are termed “courses and “wales’respestvely. Courses Courses are rows of loops across the ‘width of fabrics: they are measured in uits ‘of(Coursesfem). Couresare produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle. The number of courses determines the length of fabric, wales Wales are columns of loops across the lengthof the fabrics: they are mewsured in units of (Wales/em). Wales generally produced by the same needle kniting at successive (not necessarily all) kniting ceydes. A wale commences as soon as an empty needle starts wo Kat “The mumbers of wales determine the wide of fabric. Stitch density Sitch density refs tothe total number ‘of loapsin a measured area offaric, I is measured units per square per ‘centimetre/inch. The figure is obtained by ‘counting dhe number of courses o patern ‘ows in one inch (or centimeures) and the number of wales in one inch (or centimetres), then muliplying the number ‘of courses by the number of wales. RRR IK WA tai Stitch density gives a more accurate measurement of only courses or aly wales. ‘Tension acting in one direction might produce alow reading forthe courses and abigh reading forthe wales; when they are multiplied wogether this effect is cancelled ‘ut. Stitch density is directly related tothe “Toop length.” which isthe length of yan ‘contained in one complete knitted loop. than does a linear Loop length Looplengt, messuredin miles isthe tength of yarn in one kate Hop. Its one ofthe most important factors consoling the proper of knit fabrics. Generally, the larger the lop length, the more open and ight the fae Loop length will affect the following paramere: + Sitch density ric density + Tighmess factor ‘Fabric weight + Fabric cost “Dimensional stability + Physical performance: pilling, burst strength As Toop length decreases, stitch density, tightness factor, fabric weight, fabric cost, dimensional stability increases and vice versa, There is a definite correlation between the yarn count and loop length of a fabric and this can be defined as the cover factor” Te cover factor hence determines the handle, drape and performance ofthe fabric, Just asthe yam typedictates the opdimum Zogp lent, tis in turn dictates the gauge or knitting ‘machine required to knit the yar Gauge In knitting, the word gauge, technical abbreviation GG, refers 1o "Kiting ‘machines fineness and isthe numberof eas ina measured space onthe iting machin. Higher- gauge fabrics (those with snore stiches) aremale with Goer needles; lower gauge fabrics aremade with coarser or larger needles “Gauge,” is also termed as “cut” and “tension.” Tis “unit af measure” is equal to thenumbser of needles comtained in the RNITTING VIEWS/MAROH- APRIL 270/23 “gauge” (size) and iti simply countable 1. If wemove clockwise from Ato D inthe ‘on the bed of needles of each kniuing pictures above, we find thatthe kaitied machines, flat o circular. structures are progressively decreasing in gauge and in fineness. Gauge i very 76 126 important as everyone Knits a little differently: some people knit loosely, CRORE RRMEICUOUILE while some knit very tight, When the 4GG same yam and the same sized neces yy are given to wo different knitters, there \ NY isegpecicince tn ty wi cee wp with a different gauge. The gauge of a iV kitted fabric depends om the patter of stitches in fabric, kind of yar, size of knitting needles, and tension of the Varying types af knitting machines ) ne tsnesof Mating - individual knitter measure gauge over different distances ‘on the machine. For example circular knit sity in L0 inch, full fashioned knitting in 1.5 inches, and Rachel knits in 20 inches. Because of these differences. itis best to keep in mind the generalised principle that the higher the gauge, the closer the sfitches ‘The coarser the yam, coarser will be the gauge and the fewor stitches per sures the number of needles ‘The Finer the yam, finer wil he the ‘gauge and the more stitches per inch The larger (thicker) the needle, coarser willbe the gauge and the bigger the stitches To deseribe the stitch density ofa single Vaneye ‘x double knit fabric, the fabric may be * The smaller (thinner) the needle, angi MWR URS designated as an 18-,20-,22- oF 24-cut finer will be the gauge and the fabric. Higher the cu, closer the stitches; smaller the stitches Jower the eu, coarser the fabric. ‘The bigger the stitehes, coarser will “The sizeof the needle and the spacing of be the gauge and the fewer slitches the needles on knitting machines perinch determine the number and sizeof the knit “Tha sinallr ihe stich ine willbe stitches and their closeness, Each wale is ie en tes ce bce pe formed on one needle. The number of inch needles is qual to the numer of wales. ‘The closeness of the sitches determines is 5 ht Oe veteran fabne willbe ightveishy ‘i caning ot vrs Kind of and open, or heavier and denser. The term niting needles @ gauge is also used to describe the closeness of krit stitches www.vasantkothari.com © 2012 2A wserTNNG VIS MARCH-APRIL 2040 Knitting Needles Machines CEN ae Giri abit VASANT R KOTHARI - has done Master's in Textiles Technology from DKTE’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji (Shivaji University, Kolhapur), Maharashtra. He has also done Diploma in Export Management (Apparel Export) from the Indian Institute of Export Management, and Garment Export and Merchandising Management from NIFT, Bangalore Presently, he’s working as an Assistant Professor in Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore. (This is his third input from the series of articles in knitting Views) 38, anc Views /MayuNEam0 we fundamental elements in constuction of knitted fabrics are the kniting needles as they are the min elements for inwermeshing of loops. The quality of the knitted fabric i largely dependent on the effectiveness and accuracy of the loop, which in cur largely depends on Smal variations inthe needle manfacturecan lead lar fabric. The surface of needles should be highly polished allowing the yarn and the loop to ton slide free, The needle must have high srength and toughness to give durability. typical needle must form several million knitting actions without aul Types of knitting needles: There arethxee typesof naedles, Those are 1. Bearded needle 2. Lateh needle 3. Compound needle Simplest, but requiringanother elementto control Selfacting ‘The Latch needles primarily wed in welt ‘kniting, and the other owo are used for ‘warp knitting. A coarse (large and thick) needle usually knits with a coarse yam (large hook), whereas a fine (small and thin) needle usually knits with fine yarn (small hook), Bearded needle ‘The bearded needle was used by William, Lee in his stocking frame to enable a single needle to undertake the tasks achieved by hand knitters with two needles. This needle is the simplest and cheapest to produce, but it does require an additional element to clene the beard during knitting, In the case of warp keitting it is presser bar. The majority of modem high speed warp knitting machines now use compound needles rather than bearded needle. ‘The needle consists of five main pans. A.Shaft or stem — used with the jack sinker to form neve loops 2. Head — the point at which the stom is ut to Form the beard, it helps 1 draw the now loop through the ald loop 3.Beard —tho needle continues from the head tobe turned back on itself to form the beard. ‘The beard is used to wap rnew lonps while old loops are pushed lover the top Wee Toe a (sr Cty nT ‘Two independent controlled part 4. Groove or eye—asial gooveis worked io tho stom af the needle to allow the beard to ensure the old course is pushed over the beard ‘Qush with the stem and Beard Eye pecitons 5. Shank — bent for individual location in the machine or cast with others in a ‘metal lead’. The shank s used to attach the needle tothe frame Bearded needle characteristics LThe knitting section accupies a considerable amount of space. thus lining producti 2.The needles can set vertically oF hoizontally 3.The needle has the disadvantage of requiting a pressing edge to close the bearded ook 4.The presser maybe in the form ofa bar, blade, verge or wheel ‘5. Finer in Cross Section, therfore, more rcedles in unit space. Hence Finer Gauge (60 needles/per inch) can be achieved 6. High wear and tear andcan break easily 7. Stain on the yarn is ess R.No possibility of fluff or tint accumulation on the needle 9. Mostofthe warp knitting machines use beard needles Tall arr views mavsguneaa/39 Latch needle Matthew Townsend, a Leicester hosier, patemed the Latch meedle in 1849, and compared to the bearded necdle, which evolved sa advantage of being self acting, though it is slightly more expensive to produce. 1260) years earlier, ithas the "The needle consis of seven main parts: 1. Stem — Used to hol the course of ld loops 2.Hook - The hook is used wo cateh a ‘thread and form loops 3. Rivet Therivet, whiclt may be pin or threaded, holds the latch in place and allowsit to pivot 4.Lateh ~The latch combines the task performed hy the presser har and the beard of the bearded needle 3.Latch spoon — The latch spoon is an ‘extension of the blade, and bridges the zap between the hook and t ‘covering the hook when closed 6.Butt — The butt enables the movement ‘of the needle to he controlled by a cam mechanism, A uack raises and lowers the needle ‘Tall — Use to provide support to the reedle 40 sorrevc vEws/MavsUNE2N0 Lateh needle characteristics: |, Moxt widely used in weft knining More expensive than the bearded needle, because of the assombly ofthe needle and latch 3. Itis self-acting or leop-contrle, and is sometimes termed the “automatic needle lean work at any angle Needle Depth determines the loop length Variation ofthe hei ght of reciprocating action produces Knit, tuck or miss stitch It is ideally suited for use with computer-controlled electronic selection devices [makes longer stoke inthe eyele of kiting 9, The Latch needle takes a longer time to kai a loop and hence dhe knittin machine is generally found slower 10. Latch neadles ae thick and rigid 1 Needle deflection is ifficult 12 Ie imposes a certain suain ow the yarn 13 There accumulation on the lateh due 10 Iso pensibility of Malo int rubbing ation ofthe yam onthe nee Fig. Compound neede [Puster oe) Compound needle (Compound noedies were designed in the mid of 19d Century. It consists of 1w0 separately controlled pars: these are-the open hook closing element (tongue, latch, piston, and plunger). The two parts ise and fll asa single unit but atthe top of therise the hook moves faster to open the hooks and at the start of the fall the hook descends faser to close the hook, It is easier to drive the heoks and tongues collectively to form two separate bbarsasin warp knitting; than to move each hook and tongue individially as in weft knitting. Twotypes of compound needle have been employed in warp knitting machines: 1. The open stem “Pusher type" or slide needle has closing wire or tongue that slides externally along a groove on the ‘edge ofthe flat hook member 2. The tubular pipe needle has its tongue sliding inside the the ofthe open hook ‘Compound needle characteristics: 1. The compound needle is expensive 2.11 offers a much shorter, smoother and simpler kitting action in comparison to coiher needles 3.Both members of C have a straight moment, thus the jound Needle Kiting spead can be ineressed 4. There is no strain on the yarn ‘Common points ‘The trce needles considered above, while differing in design, have the following points in common, 1, Hook —to take & hold newly fed yam 2. Closing mechanism —to allow the held Joop to leave the needle 3.Stem 4.Control Butt ~ for individual or collective movement Loop formation process During yam feeding, the honk is epened to release the retained old loop and 10 receive the new loop which is then enclosed in the hook (As shown in Fig. 3.8). The mew loop is then drawn by the hook through the old loop which slides onthe outside ofthe bridge ofthe enclosed hhook (As shown in Fig. 3.9). All neaies ‘must therefore have some method of closing the knitting needle hook to retain the new loopand exclude the old loop (As shown inFig. 3.10). Fig3 Fig Fig 312 Needles at rectang lar o fat bed 1 the non ses, we woul be dacasing abou te lamers of keto, Needle orientation [Noedlos inthe kniting machine arc usually rented either vertically, hoizontlly,orat 45°. Neodles are eld in the position by readle beds - pieces of meta into which slats or arooves have been cut. The beds Fig 3.11 Neodies at 90" on eylndr (Vora) can be rectangular or circular and dal oreo) Beaded needle Latch ned ‘Resured another elemento clove the hook | Selfactngneelle Tess expensive Mare expensive eal nesles we thivand ele atch nesdes nek wl igi Usually mounted on fer gauge ‘Usually mounted on coarser gauge TE wear and bres esi Suen in nae ‘No sti on yarn Tmposos certain ain on Vara Tralee ashonter coke Ie ang r ‘Seria minimus loop robbing | SNCs ae lowe “Time required to knit the loop is less "Takes longer time to knit the Loop “Tie spesd afte machine iigh The speed ofc machine ils i makes aTonger Selfacing needle CComist of two separatey-conroled pans Tess expensive Very expensive rao oops _| tend be rounder Latch nese are relatively tisk Because ofits im constrveion nd short hook ited ore possible “Speed wrelatiely ew SSCS Can wok aig peed Fig 3.13 Needles al 45" on V Bed Kniting Machine euITTING views/mavsuneaa/41 VASANT R KOTHARI - has done Master's in Textiles Technology from DKTE’s Textile and Se Engineering institute, Ichalkaranj| Pe (Shivaji University, Kolhapur), — | ! J Aaharashtra. He has also done Diploma in Export Management T L (Apparel Export) from the Indian ull Institute of Export Management, -) and Garment Export and | | Merchandising Management 4 i b from NIFT, Bangalore. Presently, he’s working as an Assistant Professor in Department of ka fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore. (This shis fourth input from the series of articles in knitting Views) SS een 2 somite views ¥aUaRst 201, Sinker Fig 4.1 Postion ot ako and needle “The main pars of sinkers areas follows 1-But 2 Buttbreadth 3— Height of shank 4—Buldge 5 Neb 6—Length of cb 7—Throat angle 8- Sinker platform beight 9—Breadth of lower shank 10-Clearance Throat Fig 42 Man componants of enor Sinkers may perform one or more of the fellowing functions, dependent upon the machine's knitting action and consequent sinker shape and movement + Loop formation * Holding-down + Knocking-over “The main functicn of the sinker isto assist the neces in the loop formation by sinking or knitting newly Iai yams into Hoop as its foward edge ox catch (C) advances between the two adjacent needles. Thisis only for bearded needle, whereas on latch needle wel knitting machines snd wap knitting machines, lop fermion is noca function ofthe sinker, ‘The second and more common function of sinkers on modern machines is to bold down the old loops ata lawer level on the needle stems than the new loops that are being formed, and to prevent the old loops from being lilted as the needles rise 10 lear them from their hooks. The protruding nib ornose ofSinker (N) is positioned over the sinker loop of the old Toop (0), ‘preventing i rom rising withthe needle. “The third function ofthe sinker ~ as a knock-over surface ~is| iMustated in Fig 4.4 whereits upper surface or belly (B) supports ‘the old loop (0) asthe new oop (NL) is drawn through it, Fig 43 Acton ofthe loop- {amng sinker Fig 44 Acton ofthe knock cover anker The jack The jack isa secondary welt knitting clement, which may be used 10 provide versatility of latch needle selection and movement. Its placed below and inthe same ck asthe needle and fs is own operating bul and cam system, ‘The cam Koitting cams are solid stel plates and with the assembly of different cam plates track for a butt can he arranged. Each rvedle movement can be obtained by means of cams acting on the neee butt The fig 4.5 shows the simplest cam design, vecten of Nees Teaah§ ———> eee ‘Saarng retog amrg noche Leb Paig ‘as Cam ssuen car ua cam | = (acute | ‘Sone Up Toon cam | Fg 45Kniting cam design (Cams aredevices, which convert the rotary machine dkive into a suitable reciprocating action forthe needles and other elements, ‘The upward movement ofthe needle is obtained by the rising cam orcleaing cam. Therising eam places the needleatacerain| level as it approaches the yarn area, Cams controlling the downward movement of the needles ae called stitch cam. The stitch eam deaws the needle down below the knitting level, theceby drawing a loop formed by the fed yarn through the oop already on the neadle. The lowest point to which the nevdle is KNITNG vEws juty-aUucusrana/25 «tran by the stitch eam is called the “cast-off” position. They ‘ate sorewed to the cylindrical cam ring and are adjustable in ‘vertical direction. If the stitch cam is raised, them sheetcrlocp is drawn below the sinker level anda tighter fabric will vesult With lowering the cam, a reverse result is obtained. ‘Guard cam keeps the needle buttsin theirraceway. Running cam ‘or up-through eam keep the needle buts st a lw level unl hey meet the next rising cam, eedecamspten Fig 47 Naedle and Stuer cam system 26,yxNErTING VIEWS ULY-AUGUST 2000 ‘Theneedlecamrace consists of Clearing cam 2 Stitchcam 3 Up-trow cam, which ae ‘erically ajustable together fr alteration of stitch length 4and6Guanicam SRewmcam ‘The three sections ofthe sinker cam race are ‘TRace cam 8 Sinker withdrawing cam 9 Sinker-retum cam, ‘whichis adjustable im accordance with the sich length Cam systems generate both the needle and the sinker displacements for sinker machines and cylinder and dial isplacements for double jersey machines. Fig 47 shows both te sinker eam track above and the ne eam track below. The needle tack shows the typical thee stage needle displacement of (V4) the raising or clearing cam, (2/3) the lowering or stitch eam and (56) the guard eam that returns the needle t its entry position forthe next cam system. The sinker track shows the engaged positon (section 7) when the needle is clearing. The sinker disengages in sections 8 and 9 so that knock-over can take place and re-engages into section 7. The displacement diagrams of the needles and inkers are also shown, Fig 4.8 Modern tour rack cylimer cam block Yarn feeding Basically two types of yarn feeding are there + Moving the needles past the stationary yarn feed *+ Most circular weft knitting machines have revolving needle cylinders and stationary cam, feders ane yarn packages In this case, the fabric tube must revolve with the needles, as must the fabric rollers ana take-up mechanism ‘+ Moving the yam past the stationary needle bed + Aswhen the yarn moves past the neces, the fabric will stationary because the loops hang from the needles. This, ‘arrangement exists on all warp Knitting machines, and on well Knitting machines with straight beds and circular ‘machines with stationary cylinders and dial @ Unthenes sae re would be discussing above the Knige lop srucrre and novation) VASANT R KOTHARI - has done Master's in Textiles Technology from DKTE’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaraniji(Shivali University, Kolhapur), Maharashtra. He has also done Diploma in Export Management (Apparel Export) from the Indian Institute of Export Management, and Garment Export and Merchandising Management from NIFT, Bangalore. Presently, he’s working as an Assistant Professor in Department of fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore. (This is his fifth input from the series of atticles in Knutting Views) 22 sk T TENG VIEWS SEPTEMIEROCTONER 21 Miss Stiteh here are tee principe stitches utilised in knit fabrics: Ki, tuck and miss stitch, These three stitches, or combinations of them appearing in the same fabric. form te bass of al knited fabrics, Formation of loop structures ‘The weit knitted structures described so far have been totally ‘composed of knitted loops, which are produced whenever the needle clears the old loop, receives the new yam and knock ‘overthe old loop from the previous knitting cycle. Fig. 6.1 shows the three possible positions of the needle ut the time of feeding the yam. They are refered to as knit, tuck and miss postions. ‘These different stitches are produced by controling the height of the needles and the individual selection of needles enable knit, tuck or miss stitches tobe formed, For different stitch requirements, sing cams or auxiliary cams sweplaced between the ising cams and he stitch cams w change the path of the noedle butts to form a raceway and the needle butts rave in this restricted puth accordingly vo form knit, ck and miss stitch, ‘Treat tact 1 Fig 6.4 Tuck sich prctned on a lich need machine ‘The tuck loop will always le at the hack ofthe held loop. The ‘numbers of consecutive tucks on any one needles limited by the amount of yarn thatthe needle hook can hold, with the maximum ually being between four wo five loops. Fig 6.5 shows the technical face of the tuck stitch along withthe kniting notations, eng Fig 62 Cam cating tor cmarontsttcnos Knit stitch "The Knit ttc i the basi stitch, Itis also called the plain stitch Knit stitch is formed when the needle caries out a complete stroke, eaching the maximum beight on the looping plane w % a i Techies! face Fig 65 Technical face of ick sth fabric with stich notations ‘Courses Offered Every Month + Apparel Export Merchandising Fg 53 Faco ad back of kn een + Apparel Sourcing Management Tuck stitch * Apparel Production Management + Apparel Quality Menegement ‘Atuck stitch is formed whena knitting needle holds its old loop and then receives a new yarn. Two lonps then collect in the rncadle hook. The previously formed knitted loop is called the held loop and the loop which joins iti a tuck loo. KNITTING VIEWS /SEPTEMBEROCTONER 210/23 ‘The resultant stitch is elongated. Tuck stitches appear on the ‘back ofa fabric and may be recognised as an inverted V, sometime clongated for two or more courses, depending on how many times the stitched was tucked. Fig 6.6shows a single tuck viewed from tochnical face and back ofthe fabric. Fig 6, shows single tuck viewed from the technical back and, inaddition, how dis stuctue is represented using conventional stitch notations ati Fig 67 Tuckng ove Sour adjnent ah needs ‘Tuckstitehes tends to reduce the length of the fabric and increase its width (Wales are pushed apar), resulting inthe fabric being thicker (yarn fiom the tuck sit lies on top of the preceding stitch) with less extension inthe width. The tuck stitch is used in knitted fabric to crete design effects incolour, raised surface texture, orahole oreyele effect. ¥ ¢ { ie Fig 68 Tuck sch (Face and Back) 24 aserrnc vEWs/sePTEMBEROCTONER 310 Miss stitch A miss stitch is ereted when one or more Knitting needles are {deactivated and do not move into postion to accept the yarn ‘The yarn merely passes by and.no stitch is formed. ‘The float wil i freely on the reverse side ofthe held loop which is the technical back, and in the case of rib and interlock structures it wll be inside the fabric. Fig 6.10 ilustrates thatthe ‘oat will extend from the base of anc knitted or tucked leop to Mis stitch i alo known as float stitch or wel stitch, Fig 6.11 shows the face and the back of the mis stitch, Fig 6.12 shovs a four needle float viewed from the technical back, together with the conventional stitch notation used to represent this structure, ‘The introduction of miss stiches reals in the fabric becoming narrower in width, since the wales are pulled closer together and the held oop ‘rebs" yam fom adjacent loops. This tends to improve fabric stability, The miss stitch also has a tendency to increase fabric weight, and educe both stretch, and width. A miss stitch is wed to create colour and figure designs in knitted fabric since it permits the selective positioning Bi Fg 811 Mas etter Fig 613 Mis itch (Front and tack) Knit tuck and miss stitches canbe used in any of dhe four fabric types ~ single jersey, rib, pur or interlock ~to produce a wide range of structural effects. Fi 6.14 shows thecombination of all three stitches. [lololaloel {6.12 Floating across tou adjacent plain needs Fig 6.14 Successive tucks and Hats (in the next edition, we woud be discussing about Weft Kniting.) KNITTING VEWS/SEPTEMBEROCTONER 210/25 VASANT R KOTHARI - has done ‘Master's in Textiles Technology from DKTE’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji (Shivaji University, Kolhapur), Maharashtra. He has also done Diploma in Export Management (Apparel Export) from the Indian Institute of Export Management, and Garment Export and Merchandising Management from NIFT, Bangalore. Presently, he’s working as an Assistant Professor in Department of fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore. (This is one of the inputs from the series of his artides) Basies of knitting - Weft knitting kK" fabrics provide comfortable swear toalmostany styl of garment. Most knits contour to the body's silhouette without restricting movement because ofits open stucture. This makes knit fabvis ideal for innerwear, bodywear and sportswear garments, While many variations of Knit fabrics exist suc that uscd for hosiery there are two basic types ‘of knit fabsies—wert knits and warp knits —and it's the direction in which the yarns making up the fabeie are Tooped that dotermines which type of knit the fabric is, From these two types of knit fabrics ‘come various subtypes that consumers encounter in fase sores and read within garment descriptions. Weft knitting is the simplest method of converting a yarn into fabrics, Weft kniting is a method of forming a fabric in ‘which the leopsare made in horizontal way from a single yarn and intenmeshing of oops take place ina circular or flat form ‘on acrosswise bass, In this method each weft thread is fed, more or less at right angles to ditection in which Fabric is ‘formed. Each course in a weft knit builds upon the previous Knitted course. Mast ‘ofthe Weft knitting iso tubular form. tis possible to knit with only one thread or cone of yam, though production demands have resulted in citcular weft knitting machines being manufactured with upto 192 threads (feeders). Common weft knits In woven fabric structures, three weaves, are called basic weaves, vir. plain, till and stn. Ina similar way, ina weft kiting structure, the following four srucuresare ‘considered as basic welt ka + Plain jersey fabric «Rib fabsie + Pur fabric + Imcerlock fabric Plain jersey fabrics, also known a single {jersy, have an identifiable rightffae and ‘wrong /back side. Other types are known 20,xNrrrnG VEWs/NOVEMBERDECEMOER 20 2s double jersey, just asthe name implies, ‘uses two scts of yarns on oppose nceies resulting ina heavier fabric that looks the same on cither side, Double knit fabrieshave litle stretch; retain their shape and works best for tailored garments, Each of these fabric types is unique in appearance and function, Plain jersey fabric Plain jersey fabric is the simplest wet knitted structure that is possible to produce with ane set of needle. Ibis very ‘economical prodee. Iis having definite face and back and is most casily recognised Faceishaving all ait stitches with smooth texture, while back is having purl sGtches with textured and mottled appearance. These fabrics are produced ‘on flat as well as circular machines, Characteristies of jersey knits + Stretch crosswise and lengthwise + Strotches more in the crosswise + Tend tran or addr if sth breaks «Fabric less stable and curs when cut + Special finishes coumerac curing and improve stability + Highest machine productivity End-usesof rib knits, + Collars and cuffs * Necklines » Bottom ‘edges of sweaters. * Double knits jackets «Knit hats * Men’s hosiery End-uses of jersey knits + Sheets + Sweutes + Terry robes ‘+ Tshins * Men's underwear “Dresses + Hosiery and pantyhose ‘+ Pally fashion garments Jersey knit variations ‘Fleece +latasia + Jacquard Kats “Knitted terry *Knittad velour + Lisle + Plated kits + Silver-pile knits Fg: Rb tabi Purl fabric url fabric las loop Knitted to the front and back en alternate courses, in contrast, ‘oar fabric, which is knited tothe from and back on altemate wales. A simple purl {absiclooks like somewhat like the back of jersey knit on the both side of the fabric. “The simples puel fabric is known as Lx fabrics, Purl fabrics are made on kitting ‘machines alle pd knit machines or links- or-links machines. (Charucteristies of purl knits + Slowest of the kniting machines + Both sid similar appearance + More expensive * Good stretch in all direction + Strotches out of shape easily + Crosswise suetch less thana jersey knit + Thicker than jersey knits + Does not cul + Can be unroved from either end SUIS TM Wi =) Fig Plan josey fabric Rib fabric Ribfabricisa double jeney kitted fabric With vertical ows (wales) of loops meshed in the opposite ditection to cach other. Simplest rib fabric is 1 1 rb having alternate wales knitted to the front and ‘back The ibs tend 1 close up to erente a double faced fabric, which has the same appearance on both sides. Rib knits fabrics are produced with the knitting machines having two sets of needle, ‘normally positioned at rights angleto each other. Characteristics of rib knits + Algo called as double jerseys fabric “ls reversible fabric + More elastic than Jersey knits More thicker than jersey [knits * More strech crosswise than lengthwise + Edges do not curl + Nery stable * Running and laddering still a [problem * Mare expensive t produce Fig: Pufaric “Next highest machine productivity End usesfor purl knits “Infant and children’s wear ‘Sweaters + Scarves ‘Fancy gacment parts Interlock fabric Interlock stractare consists of two I x | si fabeics Knitted one alter the oer by _means of two separate yams, which kits alternately on the face and back of the fabric and arc interlocked together. Interlock isa reversible fabric, which has similar smooth appearance on each side. Interlock is produceon cylinder and dal cireular weft knitting machine, with alernate long and short needles opposite teach other on eylinder and dal (Characteristics of interlock knits “Reversible # It does not curl ‘*Firmer fabric +Less extensible as compared to other jersey fabrics + Heavier and thicker as compare t ib + Itunroves from the course knitted the last + Coslier fabric + Beter insulator c \ \ 4 Hae Fg: ntetock tare End-uses or interlock kaits * Outwear fabric * Dress wear + Skit ¢ Blouses + Tshirs Variables in weft knitted fabric ‘A great deal of variety may be created by ‘manipaating the following: + Fibre content + Yarn type and twist, “Fabric count + Colouration + Finishes and Variations of tuck, knit and miss stitches (Un the next inte, we would be diceusing ‘ahout Plan jersey and rib flies) wn vasarukonaricom [KNITTING VIEWS /NOVEMBERODECERBER 270/21 VASANT R KOTHARI has done Master’ in Textiles ‘Technology from DKTE's Testle and Engineering Institute, chalkaranji (Shiva University, Kolhapur), Maharashtra, He has also done Diploma in Export ‘Management (Apparel Export) from the Indian institute of Export Management, and Garment Export and Merchandising Management from NIFT, Bangalore. Presently, he's working as an Assistant Professor in Department of fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore {This is his seventh input from the series of articles in Aniting Views) 22, RNITINGVIEWS/ANUARYFFIRLARY 2011 The needle loop "The upper part of the loop produced by the needle drawing the yarn is called the needle loop. Itisthe basic unit of a knitted structure. Each stitch or knitted loop consists of atop are (head), to legs and two bottom halfares (let) At the base of each leg is a foot, which meshes through the lead of the loop formed at the previous knitting eycle, usually by that needle. The yarn passes from the foc of one loop into the foot and leg ofthe next loop formed by it. The sinker loop ‘The lower part of the knitted loop is technically refered as snkerloop. Histhe Piece of yar that joins one weft-knitted eeile oop toe next. Ou bearded ncedle ‘weft knitting machines, Joop-forming sinkers form the sinker loops in succession between the neatles ~ hence the origin ofthe term sinker oop. On atch needle wefl knitting machines, however, the sinker loops are automatically formed the needles, in succession, draw their new loops, Fg 51: Components cf nets loop Fos Iterneshing pots oa needle 9p Needle Loop Sinker Loop Fg 53:Nedl bop rd sno oop Face loop ‘During Loop formation, when dhe new loop ‘emerges through the old loop from back to the face (or front) side, i is ealled as face loop or weftknitloop. Face Loop Back Loop HR Fg 54: Face oop ana back loop Back loop Ifthe new loop passes from the face side tothe hack side of eld loon, itiscalled as ‘back loop oF weft purl loop. The knitted stitch ‘The Knitted stitch is the basic unit of inermeshing which usually consists of three oF more itermeshed needle loops. ‘The cente loop has been drawn though Fig 57-Face sie of plan krited fabric @ ruse NS tat ote tverpevioay‘omes MY OR) ML) loop and is, in tur, intermeshed through its head by the loop above it. ‘The repeat unit of a stteh is che minimum repeat of intermeshed loops that can be placed adjoining other repest units in order to build up an unbroken sequence in width and depth Fp 58 Backs of pao wit eve Fora stitch, depending on the postion of the legs atthe binding points, a technical back and a technical front side is defined. Fass Technical face ‘The side of knitted fabric that consists all of face or knit loops, is called as technical face ofthe fabric. Itisthefrontsie of fabric. Fg 59-Tecniel face and back of single jetey tabic Technical back ‘Theside ofknited fabric having fulloftack Knitting notations: corpurlloops.iscalledasthe technical back A kaiting notation is a simple, easly of te Labrie. lis the back side ofthe fabric. understond, symbolic representation of KNITTING MEWS JANUARY-FENRUARY 291/23 aksitting repeat sequence andits resultant Basically (wo methods are recognised for ctue that eliminates the need knitting notations: msn id possibly 1. Point paper 2. Graph paper sketches and written paige paper achpoint represents anced in plain view fom above and, afer the dead path has —— New L ses becndrawm, it also represents its stitch. Each horizontal row of points thus represents Face loop _ajacent neales during the same kniting stitch and lean thecoure produced by them. The notation lowest row of points represen the stating ‘rune in kiting alol gall | hye —New Loop Reverse loop stitch 7 and rotation O° oo ghee Fig 5.12. Poh paper notatons cf various Figsat kating designs Graph paper ‘This method is developed by the Leicester School of Textiles for welt kitting In this method each square represents a needle or stitch, An *X’ symbol is placed ina square where a face stitch occurs and an "0" where there is areverse stitch = | [9] x oO os Fa 5.12 Gaph paper stators cf vasus xing cece vw vasantkotharicom VASANT R KOTHARI www.vasantkothari.com 24 ROTTING VIEWS/[ANUARYFFIRLARY 011 SINGLE JERSEY & RIB FABRIC \VASANT R KOTHARI has dene Master's in Textles Technology from OKTE's Textle and Engineering Insitute, Ichakarany (Shivaji Unversity, Kolhapun, Maharashtra. He has also done Diploma in Export Management (Apparel Export) from the tndian Insttute of Export Management, and Garment Export and Merchandsing ‘Management fiom NIFI, Bangalore. Presently, he's working as an Assistant Professor in Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore. (This is his eighth input from the series of artes in Kiting Views, Single jersey fabric If weft knitted fabric has one side consisting only of face stitches, and the ‘opposite ide consisting of back stitches, themit is described asa plain knited fabric. Ieisako frequently referred w asa single Jetsey fabric (single fabric, Technical face af single jersey fabric is smooth, with the side loops having the appearance of columns ‘of V's in the wales. These are useful as nbs of the needle Fig 8.1: The technica face of pain jersey 22 RATING VIENS/MARCH:-APRIL201 basic units of design when knitting with different coloured yarns. On the technical back, the hoads of the needle loops and the bases of the sinker loops form columns of interlocking semi-circles, whose appearance is sometimes ‘emphasised by kniting alemate courses in different coloured yarns Fig 8.2: The technica back of plain jersey Fh 84: Face side Cross Back side of ‘ol the fabio geation he tare. Plains the simplest and most economical ‘welt knitted structure to produce and has the maxim n covering power It normally has a poteatial recovery of 4) per cent in ‘width after stretching. rating QOOOOOOO OOOOOOO0O0O Fig 85:Knttrg ntaton of single rey fbie Production of singlejersey fabric Single jersey fabrics are produced on flat a well as circular machines, having one set of needles in one needle bed and are called jersey machines, plain-knit machines o single kit machines. Most of the singlejersey fabrics are praduced ‘on circular machines whose latch needle cylinder and sinker ring revolve through the stationary knit cam systems that, together with their yarn feeders, are situated at gular intervals around the circumference ofthe eyliner ‘The yam is supplied from cones, place either on an integral overhead bobbin stand or on a free-standing creel, through tensioner, stops metions and guide eyes down to the yarn feeder guides. The fabric, in tubular form, is drawn downwards from inside the nee cylinder by tension rllers and is wound ento the fabri batching roller ofthe winding-down frame. The knitting action Figure 8.6 ~ 8.10 shows the knitting action of a latch needle and holding down sinker during the production of a course of plain fabric: ‘Tuckingin the hook or rest positon: The sinkeris in forward poston, holding down ‘theo oop fabric) whilst the needle rises fiom the res postion, Fig 86:Tucking in the hook or rest position (Clearing: The sinker i stil forward asthe needle has been raised to its highest position clearing the ol lop from its atch F987 Cloanng Yarn feeding: The sinker is partially move Dbackallowing the feeder wo presen its yarn to the descending neodlc hook and also fieeing the old loop so that it can slide up the needle stem and under the open latch spoon. Fg 88: Yarn fing Knodk-over: The sinker isflly withdrawn \whils the old oop has closed the Lach wo trap the new yam; needle descends to nockover its olf loop onthe sinker belly. Fig 89: Knock over ‘Holding-down: The sinker moves forward to bold dawn the new loop in is threat \hils the needle rises under the influence ‘ofthe up throw came to the rest position where the head of the open hook just protrudes above the sinker belly, All needles in one bes can pull Loops in only one direetion as shown in fig 8.11. ‘Asa consequence, jersey-knit materials Ss Fig 810: Hotlng down are unbalanced and have a tendency to ccurl at the edges. This condition can frequently be corectedin fabric finishing. If not corrected, this prohlem can bequite troublesome in cutting and sewing ‘operations. Jersey-knit fabries stretch the width directions Fig 8.1: Single jersey circular kt fabric conmachine ‘A.wide variety of knited fabrics are mide with the jersey-Knit construction, ringing fhm sheet, lightweight hosiery wo thick, ‘bulky sweaters. Most full-fashioned sweaters are fundamentally jerey-knit fabric types. Additional fabrics that use jeney-knit construct underweat, Eshirs, pantyhose, kn knit velour, and many more, One shortcoming of jersey knit fabrics that if ‘one yar breaks, it causes an unravelling of adjoining stitches in the wale, called a ‘un, Lightweight filament-yar jerseys are especialy suscepible 1 runs de parilly tothe very smooth surface of filament yarn Rib fabric Rib has a vertical cord appearance hocanne the face Lonp wales tend to move ‘over andi front of the reverse loop wales ‘One vertical row af wale is meshed in the AMITTING VIEWS/MAROH-ArRIL 21/23 ‘oppositedirecton tothe other vericalrow ‘af wales. Face row orloops tend to close ‘pin one plane and so als the hack row ‘of loops in the other plain, Thus stitches of rib fabrics le im two planes and hence the rb structure is also known as double Jersey structure. 1x Lribhasthe appearance af the technical face of plain fabric on both sides until stretched to reveal th reverse loop wales inbetween. Fig 812 Technical fae ard back ofr abe Relaxed I x |r is theoretically twice the thickness and half the width of an ‘equivalent plain fabric, uc it has ice as much width-wise recoverable stretch. In practice, 1 x 1 rib normally relaxes by approximately 30 percent compared with itsknitting wid, rib fabric Fig 8.13: Rb labric since Production of rib fabric Rib-kit fabrics are produced with knitting ‘machines tht are somewinat different from those used for jersey knits. Because rib “knits have stitches drawn to both side of the fabric, the machines used to make them, called rib-knit machines, require two sets of mecdles usually positioned at right angles to each other; each set of neales 2A orrTevc ViEWS/ MARCH-APRIL 20n Fig 84: Top view af i fabic ig 8.14: Front viow of rb abse Ba oes ‘cross section Fig 8.14: Back view of ‘ew of io bie ‘abvie stn QQQQQQQ OOOOOOOO Fig 8.15: Kntig notation of fabric is capable of producing sitches. The fabric is formed between the 1wo needle-holding beds. The machinery required to produce ib-kait fbi is ubstunally move complex and operates at slower speeds than knitting machines used for jersey fabrics Rib knits are produced on flat (V-Boat) as well as crcl machines. Fig 8.16: Two gate of needle on ib Jeiting machine Fig 8.17: Graphic representation of wo sets ‘of needle on nib knting machine ‘The kaitting action of the circular rib machine ‘The kitting action ofa circularib machine is shown in Fig. 818-821 Clearing: In clearing position, the cylinder and dal ncedles move cut to clear the plain and rib Loops formed in the previous eyele Fig 8.18: Ceaing Yarn feeding: The neces sat thei return rmomentandare withdrawn int thertricks so that the old loops are covered by the ‘open latches and the new yarn is fed into the open hooks, Fg 8:19: Yam fosdng Knocking-over: ‘The ncedles are ‘withdrawn into thir tricks so dha the old loops are knocked over and the new loops are drawn through them, Fig 820: Knocking over Fig 821: Knock over eylinder necdleis knocking over before ial needle, then it is known as delayed timing, which is very popular in production of rib fabric as it preduces tighter fabric doe to robbing back (this is where some yarn is taken from the previously knitted current sfteh). IF both, cylinder and dial needle Knock over together, to produce oops of equal size, it is known as synchronised timing. ich to make the Fig 822: Delayed ring 1x Libis balanced by alterate wales of face loops on each side; it therefore lies ‘lt withou. cue! when cut tis a more expensive fare to produce than plain and isaheavierstructurestherib machine also requires finer yam than a similar gauge plain machine. Like all weft-knitted fabs, itcan be unroved fromthe end -knited last by drawing the free loop heads through to the back of each stitch. It can be istinguished from plain by the fact that Fig 828 Synchonisd ting the loops of certain wales are withdrawn in one direction and the others in the opposite direction, whereas the loops of plain are always withdrawn in the same direction, from the technical face fo the technical back Rib can knitted first because the sinker loops are securely anchored by the cross-meshing between face and reverse loop wales. ‘This characteristic, together with its elasticity, makes rib particularly suitable for the extremities of articles such as undergarments, tops of socks, eufis of Sleeves, knit hats, rib borders of garments, and stolling and strapping for cardigans. Ribstructuresare elastic, form- fiuing, and etain warmth beter than plain structures a be unroved from the end lin he next aril, we woul be ascussing ‘bout plan inkack fabres) (The Autor can bo contacted at ‘woravasantkothar com) NITTING VIEWS/MARCH-ArRIL 21/25 VASANT R KOTHARI Nas done \asie’s in Textiles Technology from DKTE's Textle and Engineering Ins Ichalkarany (Shnaji Univers. Kolhapu, Maharashtra. He has also dane Biplomalin Export Management (Apr Export) from the Indian Institute of Export Management, and Garment Export and Merchandising Management from NIFT, Bangalore. Presently, he's working as an Assistant Professor in Department of Fashion Technolgy, IFT Banglore. (This is his ninth input from the series of amides in Krag Views. Purl fabric "The Pudlfabnics are also known a link: linkfabrics, Purl was riginally spol ‘pear! and was so named because of is similar appearance to pearl droplets, In pul, the loops of one course are intermeshed in ‘one direction and the loops of the next cour intermeshed in oppenite direction, i.e. the altemate courses having face and hack loops. It means each wale contains ‘both knit stitches and pusl stitches. This dlffers from the rib fabri, in which the wales contsin either knit or pul stitches ‘A simple pul fabric looks somewhat like the back ofa jersey knit on both sides of the fabric, The simplest purl fabric is boo * Fi 81: The technical foe of pu fate 22st vEWs/MAY UNE ‘known as 1 x 1 purl in which one course has all knit stitches and the next course ‘has all purl stiches. The cycle repeats on ‘the third course, A2x 2 purl knit fabric is made with (wo courses of knit stiches followed by two courses of pul stitches. PURL SIDE Fig 93:Face and back Sb of lah jersey fac Ole) a( | S o AGO w Fig 94: Face side of the tre Back age ofthe rose one section LOCTLEETAATT 222222922999 PULPTTTETT EE BOOTHOOSGHOOS Fig 9.5: Knitng notaton of pur abe Production of purl fabric PusL-knitfabries are made on kniting nace calle pt titmachies rlinks- and-tinks machines. The purl kiting machines are basicaly of flat and circular ‘ypesasshown nfig9.6.The lais having {wo horizontal bes for neste movement aud central gap for fabric farmaton. The citeulartype has two cylinder, one above the other and thus veferred as super imposed eylindr mache. As sitches are sometimes drawn 10 the front and Sometimes tothe hac, two ses of msedes ae repitediprochce hese fibris.Inpart machines however aber thantvo sing, sepirte setsof needles, one st of doe headed ach needle s used a shown in Fig97.The two ned saci ligne itheach edhe, The double headed needles movefomone med bdo the ether, fom Side to side of the kite fabric ai is produced sltematly making sites mone fabric side and hen the ther. ‘The purbknit machines use Wo produce purl kat fabrics are the most versatile industrial knitting machines. These machines can produce plsinand ib swell as face, y lective progrananing ‘ofmeedle motion fabrics of aleeee ype, sometimes with unique design effects are possible. Put-kait machines are widely ‘sed inthe sweater indastry Although extremely versatile, the pul knit machines have the lowest rate of production of all knitting machines. Fig 96: Circular and ab ur tig machine ‘Therefore, the cost per pound of fabric produced is highest for purl knit fabrics, Knitting machines for jersey knits have the highest productivity but the lowest versatility. Productivity for rib-knit machines falls beeween those far jesey and purl machines, =) ee) Fg 97: Double headed lich needle The knitting action Fig 98 shows the knitting action of a Aabed purl machine whieh has wicks in cach of the nedle beds. They ae in ine with one another purl needle from the contol ofa slider in ‘one bed into the contol ofa slider inthe ‘opposite bed, cable the transfer of Position | shows engagement of the head ‘ofthe receiving slider withthe needle hook that was originally kniting {vom the ‘opposing bed. In position 2, the needle has been moved to he centee, with both sliders engaging the needle hook. The sliders then start to move back, but the slider inthe back bed is pressed down by scam, soHat fiont bed sliders freed from the needle hook and the needle is transferred to the back bed In position 3, the slider inthe back bed has ‘control ofthe needle andit canbe sen that the yam is fatto the oppesite end of the needle, when compared 10 tht of postin |. Thenthe sliderin the backed has moved the needle w knock over position to ‘complet the formation ofthe pur stitch, It should be noted tata pur stitch is made when a loop is formed by one hook and then atthe next course by the other hook ‘of the same needle, so that one course is formed on the front bed and the next ‘cours is formed on the back bed tocreate ax 1 purl structure, Fig 98: Pur cle tanser ator Fabric characteristics “To identify a pur nit abi, fabric need to stretch im its length direction, The appearance of alternating rows of knit stitches and parl stitches in the course direction is evidence of a purl knit Generally por-knit fabrics tend teat and do not eu as do jersey knits. Purl fabric has same appearance in face and back. I can uoved frm ether ed Lengthwise extensionis moreas compare to width wise and hence purl fabric ‘contract towards the centre in a course wise direction. Thickness of fabric is two to three times more as compare to single jersey fabric. ‘The fabri is commonly used fr children's wear and sweaters Interlock fabric Interlock knit fabricsare a variation of rib knits made on the interlock machine Interlockis an imerlocking of 0 1 1 sb structures in such a way thatthe Face wale cf fabric “1” is directly in from of the “reverse wale’ of the ib fabric "2" Interlock has the technical face of plain fabric on both sides, but its smooth surface cannot be stretched out to reveal the reverse meshed loop wales because ‘the wales on each side are exactly opposite to each other and are locked together as shown in Fig. 9.9, Each interlock pattern row (ole termed an “interlock couse’) requites two feeder courses, each with a separate yam that knits on scparate alternate needles, producing two half Fg 99: Iiock tare strucure arr views mavguneam/23 ‘gauge |x Lrib courses whosesinkerlonps ~_ ‘ross over each other. Thus, odd feeders Q:2:2:2:2: ‘will produce altemate wales of logps.on °C ‘each side and even feeders will produce ‘the other wales. QD:O:O:2:Q CCC Fig 9.15: Kiting notation of itrock tbc Production of interlock fabric Interlock is produced mainly on special cylinder and dial circular machines and on some double-system V-bed flat machines. Ininterlock machine + Interiock gating the needles in twobeds being exactly opposite each other so tha only one ofthe wo can knit at any feeder * Both. the cylinder and dial beds should have two ypesof needles viz, long and shost needles + Alternate placement of long and short reales in both the beds is required ‘+ The long needle of one bed should face the short noodle of the other bed and Fig 911: Ierock fabri srutne + Two separate cam systems in each bed, each controlling hal the needles in an ~ is SZ attemste sequence, one cam system controlling knitting a one feeder, and the other at the next feeder Fig 212: Flor view ol interlock bie * Needles set out alternately, one conte free cam syste, the next from the other; diagonal and not ‘opposite needles in each bed knit together Fi 9:12: Back view of intarock fee Fig 9:14: Cost socion view 0 inlerbek fabric Fig 8.18: Graph rapresoriaton of two sels of neal en rterock kiting machine 2A ore vEws/Mav UNE 2M Fig 9.17: nterioce cam sytem + Minimum of to yarns are required to kent one interlock course and hence a ‘minimumof two Feeders supply + The kaiting sigle isin such & manner that only long needles of dial and cylinder will knit with the frst feeder and only short needles of dial and cylinder will knit with second feeder Fabric characteristics ‘To determine whether a fabric is an inertock ora rib, spread the fabric width wise, and view the fabric wales carefully a the top edge of the cloth. Ifthe kait stitches are one behind the other, the fabric is imteddock. Ifthe wales of knit stitch alternate, the fabric isi, Interlock fabric isa reversible balanced, smooth, stable structure that lies flat ‘without curl Like Ix Trib twill moturove from the end knitted frst, uti is thicker hheavicr and narrower than rib of ‘equivalent gauge, and vequices finer, better, more expensive yarn. Itunroves from the course knitted the last. ‘The fabric hecomes costlier due to thickness and less production. Interlock is used for outwear fabrics, often using wool, acrylic and polyester yamns, while cotton and polyestericotton blends are used for the production of underwear fabrics. Interlock fabrics are also popular for Houses, dresses, and dressy Tahints ‘Their dimensional stability and the fact that they do notte to easily stretch out ‘of shape contrinute tothese popular uses. Interlock fabrics offer a smooth surface for printing by both screen and heat- transfer methods = Ii the next article we would be discussing ‘bout sting bar kiting machine ‘wen vrantcaarcon) VASANT R KOTHARI has done Master's in Textiles Technology ftom DKTE’s Textile and Engneering Insitute, Ichalkaranji(Shivali University, Kolhapur), Maharashiva. He has also done Diploma in Export Management (Apparel Export) from the Indian Institute of Expert Management, and Garment Export and Merchandising Management from NIFT, Bangalore. Presently, he’s working as an Assistant Professor in Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore. (This is his terth input from the series of attides in Arting Views) = Initing machine isa device use to L Acree tained fabs asemier fully automated fashion. There are numerous types of ait machines, ranging from the simple, nor-machanicl, tothe highly complex and electronic. All, however, producesingle jersey fabrics o complicated Jacquard knitted fabrics, usally cither fat cor tubular, and of varying degrees of ‘complexity. Pattem sttchescan he selected by hand manipulation of the needles, oF ‘ith push-buttons and dials, mechanical punch cards, or elecwonie patern read devices and computers. These knitting ‘machines also ranges fromhigh production to limited procinction capacity ‘The three main groups of weft knitting machinery may broadly be classified as citer straight har frames, las or circulars, accordingto their frame designand neale bed arrangement From table it can he seen that he simplest welt kniting machinery has one set of ed citer ina straight line (flat barstraight bar) or around eylinder (circular), These machines are capable of producing single jerscy fabrics, hut not noodles, aman, double jersey fabrics, and can use a ‘combination of three types of stitch: knit missor ck, With iio needle beds, double Jetsey fabrics suchas rib and interlock can & be produced onbot flat har machines and circular machines. Straight bar frat ines Straight ar frames isa specific type of machine having vertical bar of bearded needles whose movement is controlled by circular engineering cams atached 1 a revolving cam-shaft in the base of the machine? The length of dhe machine is divided into a number of knitting beads (‘sections or ‘divisions’) and each bead is capable of knitting a separate but identcally-dimensioned fashion-shaped garment panel Classification of various groups of welt knitting machine ~ Soy = ie Ts Me Fig 10:1: Kiting road of sai bar macrine Knitting action of straight bar machine Below figure shows the movement ofthe knitting elements to produce one course ‘of loops in staght bar machine a thread laying process, the carier moves across the Kniting head for laying the yarn on ‘the noses of the sinkers and dividers and fon the hear side of the needles to Form the mew couse in the fabric Fig 102: Laying tho thoad ‘The next step is Sinking, slurceekeantaets the jacks: so thal each jack in tur pushes thesinker forwards to kink aloop around every two adjacent needles. Fg 10 Sioking the loops i step, the catch bar moves the dividers forwards, collectively, wilt the needle bar tps slighily outwards 10 allow ‘the double loops toe divided into equal sized needle loops around every neat ig 10.5: Pressing ‘The needle bar start descending, placing ‘the new loops inside the hooks of the ‘beads, The catch bar is now lowered so thatthe sinkers, as well as the dividers, arecollectvely controlled by i forthe est, ‘of the kiting cyele. They now start r0 withdraw. The needle bar moves towards the sinker verge, causing the beards to be reseed. A further downward movement ‘of the needle bar ‘lands’ the previous course of loops, resting on the knock-over bits, onto the closed beards. Fig 106: Lancing he ops & ‘The nceaie har starts moving away from the pressing-edge and the sinkers and dividers withdraw so that the newly= formed course of loops drops off their noses onto the knocking-over bits. At the lime of completion of knock-over, the needle bar descends to its lowest position [As the heads descensl below the belly of the knocking-over bits, the old course of loops is collectively knocked-over. The sinkers and dividers move collectively {forward tohold down the fabric, the needle ‘bar tisesto the tread-taying position. The catch bar is slightly raised to release the sinkers for individual movementacthe tat of the next course Fig 10.7: Knocking aver he loops Straight bar frames are long and expensive machines that are highly productive in a very narrow sphere of garment manufacture, The kniwing width is small and fashion tends not to encourage full exploitation of the fashion shaping and slieh- transfer patterning potential ofthe machines Straight bar machines are known for their production of high-quality garments as a result of the gentle knitting action, low fabrictension and fashion shaping. which reduces the waste ofexpensve yarn during cutting ands emphasised on the garments hy carcfully-positioned fashion marks. ‘The straight bar frame isthe only bearded needle weft knitting machine that is still ‘commercially viable. although tow faces serious competition from electronically

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