History of cosmetics

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Nefertiti bust with eye liner applied ~1,320 BC (~3,300 years ago)
The history of cosmetics spans at least 7,000 years and is present in almost every
society on earth. Cosmetic body art is argued to have been the earliest form of a
ritual in human culture. The evidence for this comes in the form of utilised red
mineral pigments (red ochre) including crayons associated with the emergence of
Homo sapiens in Africa.[1][2][3][4]

Archaeological evidence of cosmetics certainly dates from ancient Egypt and Greece.
According to one source,[5] early major developments include the use of castor oil
in ancient Egypt as a protective balm and skin creams made of beeswax, olive oil
and rosewater described by the Romans. The Ancient Greeks also used cosmetics.[6]
[7] Cosmetics are mentioned in the Old Testament�2 Kings 9:30 where Jezebel painted
her eyelids�approximately 840 BC�and the book of Esther describes various beauty
treatments as well.

Cosmetics were also used in ancient Rome, although much of Roman literature
suggests that it was frowned upon. It is known that some women in ancient Rome
invented make up including lead-based formulas, to whiten the skin, and kohl was
used to line the eyes.[8]

Contents
1 Across the globe
1.1 Egypt
1.2 Middle East
1.3 China
1.4 Mongolia
1.5 Japan
1.6 Europe
1.7 The Americas and Australia
2 Recent history
2.1 20th century
2.2 21st century
3 See also
4 References
5 External links
Across the globe
Egypt
The use of cosmetics in Ancient Egypt is well documented. Kohl has its roots in
north Africa. Remedies to treat wrinkles containing ingredients such as gum of
frankincense and fresh moringa. For scars and burns, a special ointment was made of
red ochre, kohl, and sycamore juice. An alternative treatment was a poultice of
carob grounds and honey, or an ointment made of knotgrass and powdered root of
wormwood. To improve breath the ancient Africans chewed herbs or frankincense which
is still in use today. Jars of what could be compared with setting lotion have been
found to contain a mixture of beeswax and resin. These doubled as remedies for
problems such as baldness and greying hair. They also used these products on their
mummies, because they believed that it would make them irresistible in the after
life.
Middle East

Egyptian cosmetics box from the Bronze Age, Hecht Museum, Haifa
Cosmetics were used in Persia and what today is Iran from ancient periods.[citation
needed] Kohl is a black powder that is used widely across the Persian Empire. It is
used as a powder or smeared to darken the edges of the eyelids similar to eyeliner.
[9] After Persian tribes converted to Islam and conquered those areas, in some
areas cosmetics were only restricted if they were to disguise the real look in
order to mislead or cause uncontrolled desire.[citation needed] In Islamic law,
despite these requirements, there is no absolute prohibition on wearing cosmetics;
the cosmetics must not be made of substances that harm one's body.

An early teacher in the 10th century was Abu al-Qasim al-Zahrawi, or Abulcasis, who
wrote the 24-volume medical encyclopedia Al-Tasrif. A chapter of the 19th volume
was dedicated to cosmetics. As the treatise was translated into Latin, the cosmetic
chapter was used in the West. Al-Zahrawi considered cosmetics a branch of medicine,
which he called "Medicine of Beauty" (Adwiyat al-Zinah). He deals with perfumes,
scented aromatics and incense. There were perfumed sticks rolled and pressed in
special molds, perhaps the earliest antecedents of present-day lipsticks and solid
deodorants. He also used oily substances called Adhan for medication and
beautification.[citation needed]

China

A Beijing opera performer with traditional stage make up

Chinese people began to stain their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax
and egg white from around 3000 BC. The colors used represented social class: Chou
dynasty (first millennium BC) royals wore gold and silver; later royals wore black
or red. The lower classes were forbidden to wear bright colors on their nails.[10]

Flowers play an important decorative role in China. Legend has it that once on the
7th day of the 1st lunar month, while Princess Shouyang (????), daughter of Emperor
Wu of Liu Song (????), was resting under the eaves of Hanzhang Palace near the plum
trees after wandering in the gardens, a plum blossom drifted down onto her fair
face, leaving a floral imprint on her forehead that enhanced her beauty further.
[11][12][13] The court ladies were said to be so impressed, that they started
decorating their own foreheads with a small delicate plum blossom design.[11][12]
[14] This is also the mythical origin of the floral fashion, meihua zhuang[12]
(???; literally "plum blossom makeup"), that originated in the Southern Dynasties
(420�589) and became popular amongst ladies in the Tang (618�907) and Song
(960�1279) dynasties.[14][15]

Mongolia
Women of royal families painted red spots on the center of their cheeks, right
under their eyes. However, it is a mystery why.[citation needed]

Japan

A maiko in the Gion district of Kyoto, Japan, in full make-up. The style of the
lipstick indicates that she is still new.
In Japan, geisha wore lipstick made of crushed safflower petals to paint the
eyebrows and edges of the eyes as well as the lips, and sticks of bintsuke wax, a
softer version of the sumo wrestlers' hair wax, were used by geisha as a makeup
base. Rice powder colors the face and back; rouge contours the eye socket and
defines the nose.[16] Ohaguro (black paint) colours the teeth for the ceremony,
called Erikae, when maiko (apprentice geisha) graduate and become independent.The
geisha would also sometimes use bird droppings to compile a lighter color.

Europe
See also: Cosmetics in ancient Rome

1889 painting Woman at her Toilette by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

In the Roman Empire, the use of cosmetics was common among prostitutes and rich
women. Such adornment was sometimes lamented by certain Roman writers, who thought
it to be against the castitas required of women by what they considered traditional
Roman values; and later by Christian writers who expressed similar sentiments in a
slightly different context. Pliny the Elder mentioned cosmetics in his Naturalis
Historia, and Ovid wrote a book on the topic.

In the Middle Ages it was thought sinful and immoral to wear makeup by Church
leaders,[citation needed] but many women still did so. From the Renaissance up
until the 20th century the lower classes had to work outside, in agricultural jobs
and the typically light-colored European's skin was darkened by exposure to the
sun. The higher a person was in status, the more leisure time he or she had to
spend indoors, which kept their skin pale. Thus, the highest class of European
society were pale resulting in European men and mostly women attempting to lighten
their skin directly, or using white powder on their skin to look more aristocratic.
[citation needed] A variety of products were used, including white lead paint which
also may have contained arsenic, which also poisoned women and killed many.
[citation needed] Queen Elizabeth I of England was one well-known user of white
lead, with which she created a look known as "the Mask of Youth".[17] Portraits of
the queen by Nicholas Hilliard from later in her reign are illustrative of her
influential style.[citation needed]

Pale faces were a trend during the European Middle Ages. In the 16th century, women
would bleed themselves to achieve pale skin. Spanish prostitutes wore pink makeup
to contract pale skin.[citation needed] 13th century Italian women wore red
lipstick to show that they were upperclass.[18]

The Americas and Australia

Some Native American tribes painted their faces for ceremonial events or battle.
[citation needed] Similar practices were followed by Aboriginals in Australia.

Recent history
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and Europe and do not represent a worldwide view of the subject. You may improve
this section, discuss the issue on the talk page, or create a new article, as
appropriate. (May 2017) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)
20th century

Audience applying makeup at lecture by beautician in Los Angeles, c. 1950

During the early 1900s, makeup was not excessively popular. In fact, women hardly
wore makeup at all. Make-up at this time was still mostly the territory of
prostitutes, those in cabarets and on the black & white screen.[19] Face enamelling
(applying actual paint to the face) became popular among the rich at this time in
an attempt to look paler. This practice was dangerous due to the main ingredient
often being arsenic.[20] Pale skin was associated with wealth because it meant that
one was not out working in the sun and could afford to stay inside all day.
Cosmetics were so unpopular that they could not be bought in department stores;
they could only be bought at theatrical costume stores. A woman�s "makeup routine"
often only consisted of using papier poudr�, a powdered paper/oil blotting sheet,
to whiten the nose in the winter and shine their cheeks in the summer. Rouge was
considered provocative, so was only seen on "women of the night." Some women used
burnt matchsticks to darken eyelashes, and geranium and poppy petals to stain the
lips.[20] Vaseline became high in demand because it was used on chapped lips, as a
base for hair tonic, and soap.[20] Toilet waters were introduced in the early
1900s, but only lavender water or refined cologne was admissible for women to wear.
[21] Cosmetic deodorant was invented in 1888, by an unknown inventor from
Philadelphia and was trademarked under the name Mum (deodorant). Roll-on deodorant
was launched in 1952, and aerosol deodorant in 1965.

Around 1910, make-up became fashionable in the United States of America and Europe
owing to the influence of ballet and theatre stars such as Mathilde Kschessinska
and Sarah Bernhardt. Colored makeup was introduced in Paris upon the arrival of the
Russian Ballet in 1910, where ochers and crimsons were the most typical shades.[22]
The Daily Mirror beauty book showed that cosmetics were now acceptable for the
literate classes to wear. With that said, men often saw rouge as a mark of sex and
sin, and rouging was considered an admission of ugliness. In 1915, a Kansas
legislature proposed to make it a misdemeanor for women under the age of forty-four
to wear cosmetics "for the purpose of creating a false impression."[23] The Daily
Mirror was one of the first to suggest using a pencil line (eyeliner) to elongate
the eye and an eyelash curler to accentuate the lashes. Eyebrow darkener was also
presented in this beauty book, created from gum Arabic, Indian ink, and rosewater.
[24] George Burchett developed cosmetic tattooing during this time period. He was
able to tattoo on pink blushes, red lips, and dark eyebrows. He also was able to
tattoo men disfigured in the First World War by inserting skin tones in damaged
faces and by covering scars with colors more pleasing to the eye.[25] Max Factor
opened up a professional makeup studio for stage and screen actors in Los Angeles
in 1909.[26] Even though his store was intended for actors, ordinary women came in
to purchase theatrical eye shadow and eyebrow pencils for their home use.

In the 1920s, the film industry in Hollywood had the most influential impact on
cosmetics. Stars such as Theda Bara had a substantial effect on the makeup
industry. Helena Rubinstein was Bara�s makeup artist; she created mascara for the
actress, relying on her experiments with kohl.[27] Others who saw the opportunity
for the mass-market of cosmetics during this time were Max Factor, Sr., and
Elizabeth Arden. Many of the present day makeup manufacturers were established
during the 1920s and 1930s. Lipsticks were one of the most popular cosmetics of
this time, more so than rouge and powder, because they were colorful and cheap. In
1915, Maurice Levy invented the metal container for lipstick, which gave license to
its mass production.[28] The Flapper style also influenced the cosmetics of the
1920s, which embraced dark eyes, red lipstick, red nail polish, and the suntan,
invented as a fashion statement by Coco Chanel. The eyebrow pencil became vastly
popular in the 1920s, in part because it was technologically superior to what it
had been, due to a new ingredient: hydrogenated cottonseed oil (also the key
constituent of another wonder product of that era Crisco Oil).[29] The early
commercial mascaras, like Maybelline, were simply pressed cakes containing soap and
pigments. A woman would dip a tiny brush into hot water, rub the bristles on the
cake, remove the excess by rolling the brush onto some blotting paper or a sponge,
and then apply the mascara as if her eyelashes were a watercolor canvas.[29] Eugene
Schueller, founder of L'Or�al, invented modern synthetic hair dye in 1907 and he
also invented sunscreen in 1936.[30] The first patent for a nail polish was granted
in 1919. Its color was a very faint pink. It's not clear how dark this rose was,
but any girl whose nails were tipped in any pink darker than a baby's blush risked
gossip about being "fast."[29] Previously, agricultural workers had only sported
suntans, while fashionable women kept their skins as pale as possible. In the wake
of Chanel's adoption of the suntan, dozens of new fake tan products were produced
to help both men and women achieve the "sun-kissed" look. In Asia, skin whitening
continued to represent the ideal of beauty, as it does to this day.

In the time period after the First World War, there was a boom in cosmetic surgery.
During the 1920s and 1930s, facial configuration and social identity dominated a
plastic surgeon�s world. Face-lifts were performed as early as 1920, but it wasn�t
until the 1960s when cosmetic surgery was used to reduce the signs of aging.[31]
During the twentieth century, cosmetic surgery mainly revolved around women. Men
only participated in the practice if they had been disfigured by the war. Silicone
implants were introduced in 1962. In the 1980s, the American Society of Plastic
Surgeons made efforts to increase public awareness about plastic surgery. As a
result, in 1982, the United States Supreme Court granted physicians the legal right
to advertise their procedures.[32] The optimistic and simplified nature of
narrative advertisements often made the surgeries seem hazard-free, even though
they were anything but. The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery reported
that more than two million Americans elected to undergo cosmetic procedures, both
surgical and non-surgical, in 1998, liposuction being the most popular. Breast
augmentations ranked second, while numbers three, four, and five went to eye
surgery, face-lifts, and chemical peels.[31]

During the 1920s, numerous African Americans participated in skin bleaching in an

attempt to lighten their complexion as well as hair straightening to appear whiter.
Skin bleaches and hair straighteners created fortunes worth millions and accounted
for a massive thirty to fifty percent of all advertisements in the black press of
the decade.[33] Oftentimes, these bleaches and straighteners were created and
marketed by African American women themselves. Skin bleaches contained caustic
chemicals such as hydroquinone, which suppressed the production of melanin in the
skin. These bleaches could cause severe dermatitis and even death in high dosages.
Many times these regimens were used daily, increasing an individual�s risk. In the
1970s, at least 5 companies started producing make-up for African American women.
Before the 1970s, makeup shades for Black women were limited. Face makeup and
lipstick did not work for dark skin types because they were created for pale skin
tones. These cosmetics that were created for pale skin tones only made dark skin
appear grey. Eventually, makeup companies created makeup that worked for richer
skin tones, such as foundations and powders that provided a natural match. Popular
companies like Astart�, Afram, Libra, Flori Roberts and Fashion Fair priced the
cosmetics reasonably due to the fact that they wanted to reach out to the masses.
[34]

From 1939 to 1945, during the Second World War, cosmetics were in short supply.[35]
Petroleum and alcohol, basic ingredients of many cosmetics, were diverted into war
supply. Ironically, at this time when they were restricted, lipstick, powder, and
face cream were most desirable and most experimentation was carried out for the
post war period. Cosmetic developers realized that the war would result in a
phenomenal boom afterwards, so they began preparing. Yardley, Elizabeth Arden,
Helena Rubinstein, and the French manufacturing company became associated with
"quality" after the war because they were the oldest established. Pond�s had this
same appeal in the lower price range. Gala cosmetics were one of the first to give
its products fantasy names, such as the lipsticks in "lantern red" and "sea
coral."[36]

During the 1960s and 1970s, many women in the western world influenced by feminism
decided to go without any cosmetics. In 1968 at the feminist Miss America protest,
protestors symbolically threw a number of feminine products into a "Freedom Trash
Can." This included cosmetics,[37] which were among items the protestors called
"instruments of female torture"[38] and accouterments of what they perceived to be
enforced femininity.

Cosmetics in the 1970s were divided into a "natural look" for day and a more
sexualized image for evening. Non-allergic makeup appeared when the bare face was
in fashion as women became more interested in the chemical value of their makeup.
[39] Modern developments in technology, such as the High-shear mixer facilitated
the production of cosmetics which were more natural looking and had greater staying
power in wear than their predecessors.[40] The prime cosmetic of the time was eye
shadow, though; women also were interested in new lipstick colors such as lilac,
green, and silver.[41] These lipsticks were often mixed with pale pinks and whites,
so women could create their own individual shades. "Blush-ons" came into the market
in this decade, with Revlon giving them wide publicity.[41] This product was
applied to the forehead, lower cheeks, and chin. Contouring and highlighting the
face with white eye shadow cream also became popular. Avon introduced the lady
saleswoman.[42] In fact, the whole cosmetic industry in general opened
opportunities for women in business as entrepreneurs, inventors, manufacturers,
distributors, and promoters.[43]

21st century
Beauty products are now widely available from dedicated internet-only retailers,
[44] who have more recently been joined online by established outlets, including
the major department stores and traditional bricks and mortar beauty retailers.

Like most industries, cosmetic companies resist regulation by government agencies.

In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not approve or review
cosmetics, although it does regulate the colors that can be used in the hair dyes.
The cosmetic companies are not required to report injuries resulting from use of
their products.[45]

Although modern makeup has been used mainly by women traditionally, gradually an
increasing number of males are using cosmetics usually associated to women to
enhance their own facial features. Concealer is commonly used by cosmetic-conscious
men. Cosmetics brands are releasing cosmetic products especially tailored for men,
and men are using such products increasily more commonly.[46] There is some
controversy over this, however, as many feel that men who wear make-up are
neglecting traditional gender, and do not view men wearing cosmetics in a positive
light. Others, however, view this as a sign of ongoing gender equality and feel
that men also have rights to enhance their facial features with cosmetics if women
could.

Today the market of cosmetics has a different dynamic compared to the 20th century.
Some countries are driving this economy:

Japan:
Japan is the second largest market in the world. Regarding the growth of this
market, cosmetics in Japan have entered a period of stability. However, the market
situation is quickly changing. Now consumers can access a lot of information on the
Internet and choose many alternatives, opening up many opportunities for newcomers
entering the market, looking for chances to meet the diverse needs of consumers.
The size of the cosmetics market for 2010 was 2286 billion yen on the basis of the
value of shipments by brand manufacturer. With a growth rate of 0.1%, the market
was almost unchanged from the previous year.[47]

Russia:
One of the most interesting emerging markets, the 5th largest in the world in 2012,
the Russian perfumery and cosmetics market has shown the highest growth of 21%
since 2004, reaching USD 13.5 billion.

See also
Cosmetics
Female cosmetic coalitions
Ochre
Prehistoric art
Symbolic culture
Blombos Cave
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