UNILOY* BLOWMOLDER MAINTENANCE SET-UP AND TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE MODELS 250R1 - 350R2 - 350R4 © Johnson Controls, Inc, §-88 Rev CThis manual is not to be reproduced xerographically or by any other means without the expressed written permission of Johnson Controls, Inc., Plastics Machinery Division COPYRIGHT © 1983 JOHNSON CONTROLS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVEDTABLE OF CONTENTS SAFETY SECTION | SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE ‘Maintenance Check List Daily Maintenance Schedule Weekly Maintenance Schedule Monthly Maintenance Schedule 15 Quarterly Maintenance Schedule 1.6 Annual Maintenance Schedule SECTION Il MACHINE SET-UP 21 Preliminary Steps 2.2 How to Install Molds 2.3 Installing and Adjusting Stripper Plates 2.4 Setting Mold Limit Switches 2.5 Swinging Arm Timing and Adjustments SECTION Ill MACHINE MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES 3.1. Hydraulic Dump Valve General 3.2. System Pressure Sel-Up (Single Pump System) 3.3. Adjusting Low Pressure Close Safely Setting 3.4 Adjusting Clamp Rotac High Pressure 3.5. Adjusting Shot Pressure 3.6 Adjusting “Fill” Pressure 3.7. Cleaning or Replacing Hydraulic Suction Filler (Quarterly Mainienance) 3.8 Checking Nitrogen Charge Pressure 3.9 Adjusting the Drive Belts 3.10 Checking for Clamp Rotac Leakage 3.11 Maintaining the Automatic Lubrication System 3.12 Maintaining the Air Supply System 3.13 Maintaining the Barrel Cooling Assembly 3.14 Head Tooling 3.15 Using Purging Compound 3.16 Disassemble and Cleaning Head Tooling 3.17 Repacking the Thrust Bearing 3.18 How to Remove and Replace Mold inserts SECTION IV MAINTAINING THE COOLING BED 4.1 Adjusting Cooling Bed Clutch 4.2 Straightening Push Rods 4.3 Adjusting Cooling Bed Index Limit Switch 4.4 Greasing Bearings and Checking Gear Box Level SECTION V MAINTAINING THE TRIMMER. 5.1 Checking Trimmer Safety Doors each Shift 5.2 Checking Trimmer Leak Detector (Optional Equipment, AIS Unit only) 5.3 Checking Trimmer Jam-Up Protection 5.4 Adjusting Trimmer Tooling 5.5 Keeping your Trimmer Clean SECTION VI TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE 6.1 Trouble-Shooting 62 Machine Troubles - General 63. Machine Troubles - Healer 64 Machine Troubles - Pneumatic Sysiern 6.5 Machine Troubles - Hydraulic System6.6 Bottle Troubles - Parison Formation 6.7 Machine Troubles - Ouring Molding 68 Machine Troubles - Atter Molding SECTION Vil GLOSSARY OF TERMS 43 47 48 51SAFETY Sate working conditions are readily achieved in blow molding operations, However, they are a result of planning, knowledge, attention to detail and determination of everyone involved that all in-plant procedures designed for safe operations wil invariably be practiced. Note: OSHA, company, or other requirements or regulations notwith standing, safety must be a concern of each worker. and sale practices require his or her understand- ing and individual practice. ‘While the equipment manufacturers’ manuals, normally should include necessary information on proper use of the equipment, and each plant normally will have its own preferred “safety” procedures, there are cautions each worker should keep in mind. The following list highlights some of the more common of these cautions. 1. Wear safety glasses at all times, but particularly around equipment used for trimming or grinding, 2. Molten or freshly molded plastic (or parts) can cause serious burns. Pro- tect yourself from skin contact with hot plastic. 3. Wear safety shoes if you are moving heavy equipment or parts. Shoes with soft soles can help prevent slipping on spilled pellets, 4. Keep the shop clean. Dirty areas tend to be “unsafe” areas. 5. Clean up spilled pellets, oil or water immediately. 6. Be certain the safety devices on the equipment are working properly; know how to use them, and use them invariably. 7. Be certain all gears and pulleys are covered both before starting any equipment and during operations. 8. Avoid “cold” startups and the poten- tial (unnecessary) hazards of flying heads and head bolts. 8. Keep yourself and co-workers alert when operating trimmers, and when in the vicinity of trimmers that are in Use or being repaired. 10. Be careful when working with any electrical equipment. Turn off the main power fo the machine before working on the electrical system. Keep doors closed on electrical pan: els when the machine is operating, " 12 13. 14, Turn off and lock out the main power source when adjusting or doing main- tenance on trimming-grinding equip ment or when moving equipment Do not work between the molds or mold halves until the hydraulic pump has been turned off. itis a good practice to place a solid bar between ‘mold platens to insure the molds being held open Use OSHA-approved ladders only. Do not climb on equipment while itis operating. Think “safety”, for yourself and your co-workers. Note: The preceding list could be much longer and stil not discuss all possible hazards. The cautions shown only indicate some of the concerns you should have if you are to do your job safely and wellLUBRICANT CHARACTERISTICS Mobil D.T.E. 24 Mobil D.T-E. 26 Mobil .7.E. Oil BB Mobilgear 630 Mobilux EP 1 and 2 155 SUS at 100°F. premium antiwear hydraulic and circulating oil. Also has the properties needed for an air line oil. 335 SUS at 100°F. premium antiwear hydraulic and circulating oil. 1100 SUS at 10°F. Premium double inhibited oil for use in multifunctional reuse application. 1100 SUS at 100°F. premium quality, heavy duty industrial gear lubricant, This is formulated with the new sulfur-phosphorus- extreme pressure additives which provide improved antiwear and friction reducing characteristics. These are NLGI No. 1 and No. 2 consistency extreme pressure unleaded lithium soap greases. They are multipurpose products for both antifrfction and plain bearings under wet and dry conditions, and for use in the temperature range of ~ 20°F, to 250°F. CROSS REFERENCE CHART MANUFACTURER SAE 10.20 WITH ADDITIVES | SAE 50-110 ‘ilanta Richfield Co. Duro AW-2T Rubliene Extra Heavy Standard Oil Co. (Calif.) Chevron EP Hyd. 11 Chevron Mach. Oil 50 Cities Service Oil. Co. Citgo xD 20 Pacemaker Oil 110 Continental Oil Co. Super HD 21 Conoco Dectal $2 R&O Mobil Oil Corp. DTE 24 DTE BB Mobil Oil Corp. DTE 26 Mobilgear 630 GREASE LITHIUM TYPE Atlantic Richfield Co. Mobil Oil Corp. Mobilux EP#2 Mobil Oll Corp. Mobilux EPX 1 Table 1-1 Lubrication Characteristics Litholine ind. EP 2This Manual will tell you now to maintain arid set up the Uniloy "blow molding machine Complete maintenance and lubrication schedules will alert you to what you need to do each day each week, every quarter and once a year to keep the machine in tip-top working condition You will find step-by-step instructions on how to handle most of the machine set-up pracedures for all but major repairs or replacement of paris SECTION I SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE Regularly scheduled maintenance makes the job easier on you as well as the machine, Lack of maintenance hastens the day when the ma: chine will break down and require tedious re- pairs or parts replacement. Of course, normal Wear is inevitable, it never stops but it can be slowed down. When you buy a new car, for example, you get with it a service schedule that tells you when to change the oil, lube the grease points, change filers. and other check-ups. If you follow the schedule you could make the car last up to ten years. If you oil, grease and maintain the car twice as often as the manufacturer says, you can probably stretch the working lite of the car even further. It is the same way with the blow molder: the better and more regular care you give it the longer it will produce. Not only that, st will con: tinue to give you less trouble in return, ‘Some of the early Uniloy* Blowmolders are still running strong, while turning out millions of containers. These machines all enjoyed a regu- lar schedule of maintenance and replacement of high-wear parts Oil and grease are your principal weapons in the fight against wear. Wherever one moving part touches another there is wear. Oil and grease form a slippery film between moving parts that helps to reduce the wear. But oil and grease have to be constantly replenished be- cause they evaporate as the machine heats up Some moving parts need a daily diet of new oil and grease more than others. The Stripper Guide Rods, for example, need a few squirts of cil every day to make sure they do not become stuck and hold up production. We recommend that you use two grades of oil and one type of grease to keep the machine in shape. Use SAE 10 oil (with additives) as directed for most blow molder parts. An SAE 50 gear lube is best for the extruder reducer drive and trimmer gear box We recommend using an all purpose grease wherever grease is required, except the ball spline and thrust bearing for which we recommend a lithium base grease. Many different manufactur ers supply grease and lubricating olls under dit ferent trade names. Suppliers and their trade names are listed in Table 1-1Figure 1-1 Sample Maintenance Check List 41.1 Maintenance Checklists Set up a regular schedule of daily, weekly monthly. quarterly and annual maintenance checks-~ and stick to them. Itemized checklists, can help. Sample checklists you may want to copy are shown on pages 58 and 59 Make your checklists a daily routine and everything will {go smoothly Pick a fixed time for the daily maintenance check-out. Most find the beginning of a shift is, the best time for a maintenance check. Weekly maintenance checks should fall on the same day every week—Monday is a popular choice. Cross off or intial each maintenance job so that you will have an exact record of what has been checked to which other machine operators can refer. 1.2 Dally Maintenance Schedule Every day there are a number of Specific checkpoints to check. 1, Automatic Lubrication System (optional) Check all grease points to insure proper lubrication, Figure 1-1 Fill Automatic Lubrication Systems 2. Stripper Guide Rods Adding oil and grease is not all of the mainte: nance job. Hydraulic oil temperature. stripper speed control and other systems need daily checking because they can get out of step with the production rhythm of the machine and need readjustment. Check level and fill reservoir with grease as needed. Refer to 1-1 or Maintenance Procedure page. 24 Figure 1-2 Oil Stripper Guide Rods Adjust Stripper Speed Oil lightly wrth no-drip tube. Refer to 1-23. Thrust Bearing Shoes Grease Refer to 1-3 MACHINE LUBRICATION POINTS Amen itl en Figure 1-3 Machine Lubrication Points 4. Clamp Toggle Pins Grease Refer to 1-4 5. Clamp Platen Shoes Grease Refer to 1-4 6. Clamp Tie Bar Bushings Grease Refer to 1-4 CLAMP LUBRICATION POINTS = 1% hey = LE ft Figure 1-4 Clamp Lubrication Points7. Safety Door Cam Valves Check to insure proper operation Refer to 1-5 8. Air Lubricator 9. Stripper Speed Controls 10. Hydraulic Temperature” 11, Barrel Cooling Fluid Temperature* 12. Reducer Gear Temperature* 13. Clutch Cooling Temperature” * Adjust temperature only it machine is Funning and has been running for at least ‘one hour. Figure 1-6 Oil Air Lubricator Add SAE 10 oil as needed Refer to 1-6 Check and readjust Refer to 1-2 During normal running check oil temperature and adjust water flow to maintain oil temperature between 100°F-120°F. Refer to 1-7 During normai running check reservoir temperature and adjust flow of water to heat exchanger to keep temperature between 150°F-200°F. Refer to 1-7 uring normal running conditions, adjust’ cooling water flow to keep oil temperature between 120°F-140°F. Refer to 1-7 During normal running conditions, adjust water flow to keep coolant reservoir temp- erature at about 90° F. Refer to 1-7MACHINE TEMPERATURES AND PRESSURES: Vode tach 91 pnessune 1100-1200 #5 mA J “areas Figure 1-7 Machine Operating Temperatures 1.3 Weekly Maintenance Schedule Each week there are nine checkpoints to cover. Refer to Figure 1-3. 1. Barrel Cooling Fluid Level 2. Reducer Gear Oil Level 3, Ball Spline 4, Thrust Bearing Lubrication 5. Drive Sheave V-Belt Tension Clutch Coolant Level (Does not apply to 250R1) Hydraulic Fluid Check and add heat transfer fluid to level mark. (Fill at running temperature.) ‘Add SAE 50 gear lube to bring up to level Four or five shots with EP-2 Lithium base grease ‘Two to three shots with EP-2 Lithium base grease Adjust tension to defiect V-belt no more than %e inch. Refer to adjustment procedure, page 22 ‘Add antitreeze-water mix to maintain 0°F-10°F (Use automotive hydrometer) ‘Check level with hydraulic dump valve open and fill as needed, with SAE 20 or equivalent hydraulic oil that has rust, oxidation, antifoam and antiwear inhibitors.8. Trimmer Lubrication Grease all parts and check gear lube. Fill to top of sight glass. Reler to 1-8. 10099-10040 TRIMMER LUBRICATION GUIDE Figure 1-8 Trimmer Lubrication Points9. Cooling Conveyor Grease live roller end caps. Check gear box fluid level. Refer to 1-9 Refer to section 4 4 COOLING CONVEYOR LUBRICATION GUIDE — ee Figure 1-9 Cooling Conveyor Lubrication 1.4 Monthly Maintenance Schedule 1. Air Filters Clean of replace fiter cartridges. Refer to page 24 1.5 Quarterly (3 Month) Maintenance ‘Schedule ‘There are five checkpoints to look into every three months, These may require additional machine downtime to complete. 1, Thrust Bearing Repacking Take down, clean and repack the thrust bearing unti itis at least two-thirds full of Lithium base grease. Refer to repacking procedure page 27 2. Hydraulic Oil Reservoir Drain, clean and refill reservoir with SAE 20 or equivalent hydraulic oil that has rust, oxidation, antifoam and antiwear inhibitors, or have oil analyzed to check inhibitors 103. Nitrogen Charge Pressure 4, Reducer Gear Box 5. Special Gear Reducer Requirements Check the reducer case temperature carefully in several spots after at least eight hours constant running, It the temperature is Below 150°F Between 150° Above 180°F Note: When changing reducer oil, be sure to drain the unit completely. Flush the case with new oil, Then refill to the proper tevel with new oll. 1.6 Annual Maintenance Schedule There are two checkpoints to look into yearly, 1, Temperature Controller Maintenance 2. Bartel Cooling Maintenance * Adjust temperature only if machine is running and has been running for at least one hour. " Check pressure with a charging gauge to maintain 70% of system pressure. Refer to page 22 Drain, flush and refill reducer gear box with SAE 50 gear lube or equivalent. ‘Change oil every 2500 hours Change oil every 1500 hours Change oil every 1000 hours ‘and consult Johnson Controls Service Department for recommendations Have controllers recalibrated to check for signs of wear to the pivots and jeweled bearings. Drain, clean and refill with heat transfer fluid, Refer to page 25SECTION I MACHINE SET-UP When parts wear out they must be replaced. When the die head or trimmer or other work ing part falls to do its job, it needs to be readjusted. For such adjustments and replacements there are a set of standard procedures. After some practice with these procedures, you may find it easier to vary them to fit your own style of working, But at the outset we recommend that you follow each procedure step by step in the order itis given here Special Purpose Tools To tackle all but the simplest of these proce- dures you will need a basic set of mechanic's tools. These tools should include a set of socket wrenches, a complete set of Allen wrenches, different sizes of screwdrivers, hammers, etc. In addition, you should have ready at hand the Spe- cial Purpose Tools that come with the machine when itis installed and are designed for one specific job. ‘These Tools Are: 1. Clamp Tie Bar Nut Adjusting Too! 2. Parison Weight Adjustment Too! 3. Parison Adjusting Too! Reter to Figure 2-1 2:1 Preliminary Steps Bofore you start most maintenance and ma- chine adjustments you must first bring the ma: chine up to its operating temperature. Simply follow the start-up procedure given in your Op: erators Manual up to the point where the ma- chine is ready to start production. The reason for this is that all parts expand when heated and contract when cooled. So a part that was ad- justed when cold can be as much as a quarter of an inch out of fine when it is hot. An adjust: ‘ment to the blow pin when cold, for example, would not have the intended effect when the machine is brought up to operating temperature. 2.2 How to Install Molds The installation of two, tour, six or even eight sets of molds at a time is ordinarily @ two-man job. You will need to have on hand your mechanic's tools with the following: ‘Special Purpose Clamp Adjusting Too! Vernier Calipers Allen Wrenches Sot Square or Straight Edge 4% Inch Diameter Black Iron Pipe or Iron Bar and a Short Length of 2 » 4 Figure 2-1 Special Purpose Tools The molds are matched sets of front and rear mold halves that must not be interchanged with other mold sets. Each sel of molds has an as- signed position at the die head and should al- ways be returned to the same position. If you stand in front of the machine facing the die head, the mold positions are numbered from right, to left; one, two, three, four, etc. Refer to Fig- ure 2-2, This is the order they will be referred to in all the step-by-step instructions, Figure 2-2 Mold PositionBefore you start to make sure the power is On, the barrel and head heaters brought up to nor- mal operating temperatures, and the safety re: set is Off. But before turning the chiller (water cooler) on be sure the by-pass switch on the mold coolant solenoid is in the Automatic position, It you do not you better be prepared for a bath. Step 1: Measure Stack-Up Height of Molds Stack each set of molds on a smooth surface face to face. Measure the height of each set from back to front with a gauge that can be read to one-thousandth of an inch. The height of each set of molds should be the same to within one:thousandth of an inch. Now subtract 0.025 inch (25 thousandth of an inch) from the height. of the set of molds. The result is the distance you want between the platens, Refer to Figure 2-3, —=—— —) Figure 2-3 Mold Stack-Up Height Step 2: Set Platen-to-Platen Distance Put the clamp in the lock-up position. Now set the distance between the inside faces of the front and center platens to the measured dis- tance (minus 0.025 inch) found in Step 1 To do this you will need the vernier caliper set to the right measurement. Then adjust each of the four tie bar nuts. Loosen the inside tie bar nuts and tighten the outside ones to bring the platens closer together, and vice versa to spread them apart. Refer to Figure 2-4 Figure 2-4 Measure Platen to Platen Distance Step 3: Center on the Die Head As a starting point check the alignment of all four corners of the clamp to make sure they are within .001 inch (one thousandth of an inch) of being absolutely square. Next, with the clamp in the closed position, and using your set square or straight edge, mea sure trom the inside of the center platen to the back of the feed throat of the head. Then mea- sure from inside of the front platen to the front of the feed throat. Refer to Figure 2-5. Add the two distances and divide by two to get an equal dimension on each side of the die throat Next, loosen the rotac locking bolts and turn the clamp rotac adjusting screw (behind the rear platen) until equal distance front to back is obtained. Figure 2-5 Measure Platen to Feed Throat DistarStep 4: Install Rear Mold Half Stone the back surface of the mold halves and the matching faces of the platen andior the bol ster plate to remove all nicks, burrs, or rust marks, using a fine or medium grit flat sharpening stone. Insert all blow pins leaving them about %s inch lower than the bottom edge of the mandrel, making sure the blow pin cylinders are in the up position. Refer to Figure 2-6 a at BE Figure 2-6 Measure Blow Pin Height 4 Using the manual blow pin selector switch, move the biow pins to their downward position Then, starting with one of the center molds first, screw the bottom bolts loosely into the platen or bolster plate and slide the molds onto the bot- tom bolts, refer to Figure 2-7, then screw in top Figure 2-7 Install Rear Mold Halt bolts loosely. Now you need that 11% inch black iron pipe or bar resting on the platen rails to support the mold halves. Refer to Figure 2-8. Now shim up both ends of the iron bar by the same ‘amount until the bottom ring of the shear ste! 4 Lhe “a PaGOR hd aL Figure 2-8 Support Molds on 1% Inch Bar is matched up with the center groove of the blow pin. For pull-up pre-finish only refer to Fig- ure 2:9, Figure 2-9 Pull-Up Pre-Finish Note: If ram down pre-finish is used align the bot- tom edge of blow pin to the shear point on the shear steel. Refer to Figure 2-10 Figure 2-10 Ram Down Pre-Finish CAUTION: If blow pin is set too low, damage to shear steals, blow pins, or bath will occur. It set t00 high, no shearing action will occur and neck finish will not be complete.Step 5: Centering the Molds Starting with one of the center mold halves, align the backing plate slots to the center of the ‘securing bolts and then tighten all four bolts. Next, using your set square or scale, measure from the outside of the mold half to the correspond- ing outside of the next mold half and secure. This dimension will be equal to the center to cen- ter distance of each feed throat. Continue in suc- cession until all mold halves have been secured, Refer to Figure 2-11. } | Step 6: Center Blow Pins on Mold The blow pins are centered by moving the pre: finish oylinder which has an L-shaped clamp with four bolts located on top of the die head Loosen all four bolts and move the cylinder with the blow pin unti itis centered on the neck ‘opening. Refer to Figure 2-12. For non-handled bottles that is usually at the center of the man drel opening, NOTE: For bottles with handles it may be neces. sary to adjust the blow pins and’or the molds Figure 2-12 Centering the Blow Pins to favor the handle sides in order to force more Plastic into this area At this point the back halves of all molds are in place and the biow pins centered and ad- justed for height Step 7: Position Swinging Arms With only the back halves of the molds in place itis possible to see directly how high to adjust the swinging arm movement for the “fingers” to reach all the way into the holes in the base of the mold. Each finger can be moved independently forward and backward, right and ie for tinal positioning in the finger holes. Re- fer to Figure 2-13. Front-to-back adjustment of 2S. ra Figure 2-13 Centering the Swinging Arm Fingers the swinging arms is made by loosening four screws in the slotted mounting bracket for the rotac that moves the swinging arm. Up-and: down adjustment is provided by a series of threaded holes in the machine's bridge to which the swinging arm assembly is bolted. The fin- ‘gers can be moved left and right on their fin- {ger shafts by loosening screws at the bottom of the fingers and retightening when in position. It the fingers do not rise up high enough to reach the bottom of the mold finger holes, loosen the four bolts that attach the swinging arm to its shaftPush the swinging arm up until the fingers are against the bottom of the holes. Now tighten the four bolts to lock the swinging arm to the shalt Refer to Figure 2-14. If the swinging arm fingers Figure 2-14 Adjust Swinging Arm Shatt do not come together squarely at the top of the ‘swing, loosen the Allen head locking screws and rotate the fingers to reposition. The Swinging ‘Aum Limit Switch, (LS-201) activates the closing ‘and opening of the fingers, moved by the air cylinder. A cam located to the far left of the swinging arm shaft trips the limit switch. The cam can be adjusted by loosening its locking screw and repositioning for precise timing of the fin- ger movement. Refer to Figure 2-15. oe Figure 2-15 Adjust LS-201 Cam Up Step 8: Install Front Mold Half Starting with one of the center molds, slide the slots of the mold back plate onto the bolts loosely screwed into the front platen, Reter to Fig Ure 2-16, then install the top bolts. To bring the. 16 Figure 2-16 Install Center Mold First front and rear mold halves together slowly, oper ate the clamp rotac by “jogging” the clamp closed in short steps. This is done by punching and immediately releasing the mold close pushbutton at the operators station, with the safety doors closed, of course. Now you will need the help of another person with a short length of two-by-four. Your helper, lying on the cooling bed underneath the clamp, will use the two-by-four to push the bottom of the front mola half up even with the bottom of the rear mold halt Refer to Figure 2-17. Pick a strong and steady helper and be sure to warn him to keep his hands well away from the clamp and the molds. Now “jog” the molds slowly together coordinating with your helper underneath to line up the three {dowel pins on the front mold half with the dowel holes in the rear mold half. With the dowels in the holes, hold in mold close button and tighten down all bolts holding the mold to the piaten Repeat this step for each set of molds starting with the center molds since itis easier to see land reach the center moids i they are putin first. Figure 2-17 Align Mold Bottoms with 2 x 4Step 9: Hook Up Cooling Water Lines Inlet and outlet hoses are connected to the ‘mold coolant holes with Parker-Hannefin, or com- parable push-on connectors and filings. Attach the end of the hose connectors to the threaded inlet with a compression-type hose fitting. Refer to Figure 2-18, Move the swinging arms through their full swing and check to make sure that noth- ing makes contact with the coolant hoses that ‘could pinch or break them off. On a 4-head machine, the “In” water lines (bringing coolant to the molds) are connected to a common pipe- line bored through the front and center platen Figure 218 Mole Water iret and Outlets This pipeline is hooked up with short hoses to the coolant openings in the underside of each mold half. “in” lines are usually at the front of each mold half, "Out" lines at the back. The “Out” water lines are connected individually by hoses from each mold to a manifold reservoir located on the side of the A-frame. Reter to Fig ure 2-19. Figure 2-19 Mold Cooling Return Manitold ” 2.3 Installing and Adjusting Stripper Plate The stripper plate that ejects the blown bot tle when the molds have opened far enough has a circular opening that must be centered on the die. This is done by inserting loosely two screws connecting the stripper plate to the stripper arms. Refer to Figure 2-20. Centering the plate, Figure 2:20 Center and Tighten Stripper Plate and then tightening the screws, use the lock nuts on each screw to secure the bottom of the stripper plate at its highest "Up" position. This should be is inch (one-sixteenth of an inch) above the bottom of the die, Refer to Figure 2-21. To Figure 2-21 Measure Stripper Plate to Die Face Clearance adjust it up or down simply turn the siripper's air cylinder male rod (attached to the stripper carriage) either clockwise or counterclockwise. Reter to Figure 2-22.Figure 2-22 Adjust Stripper Plate Height 24 Setting the Mold Limit Switches There are six limit switches (LS-2, -3, -4, 6, -7 and -12) that control the timing of the molding cycles. Refer to Figure 2-23, These are fastened to the clamp base between the center and rear platens on the right hand side of the machine, Figure 2-23 Clamp Limit Switch LS-2 and LS-3 are activated by a rotating arm attached to the right hand rotac adapter. Limit switches LS-7, LS-4 and LS-6 (adjusted in that order) are actuated by penci-like metal rods that screw into the rear platen. LS-12 is located on the rear platen, and is adjusted last. Refer to Figure 2-24, LS-2's cam is adjusted (by moving the cam forward or backward) so that it will trip the switch when the molds are within Y& inch (one eighth of an inch) of locking up. LS-3's cam is adjusted in much the same way to trip the switch and energize the Blow Delay and Blow Timers as the clamp is closing 18 Metal rods depress spring-actuated switches in LS-7, LS-4 and LS-5. As the molds close the rods move back off the switches. The length of the rod (and thus its time of travel) is adjusted by turning the base of the rod clockwise or counterclockwise Adjust LS-4 Stripper Start to trip off when the mold's inside edge is at least Y2 inch (one-halt inch) beyond the outside surface of the blown bot- Figure 2-24 Clamp Pause Limit Switch LS-12 tle on both sides. Adjust LS-5 (which starts ex- trusion of the next parison) to trip after the Stripper Limit Switch LS-4 is tripped. Adjust LS-7 Mold Stop so that it also trips off after LS-<. This limit switch is used to keep the clamp from ‘opening any further than necessary, and still get the container out of the mold. Adjust LS-12 to trip about Yé inch before the molds lock up, to make the clamp pause momentarily, and to al- low the pre-blow air into the parison thus build ing a better weld tine and improving the strength of the container. Once you have the steps for "How to Install Molds” down pat, you will also know how to take molds off the machine. I's simple—just do the ‘steps in reverse order beginning with Step 9 above, and unhooking the cooling water lines. 2.5 Swinging Arm Timing and Adjustments You will have to adjust the swinging arms whenever the machine cycle time is changed (whether speeded up or slowed dawn) and also whenever the molds are changed Adjusting Swinging Arm Hydraulic Pressure Set the hydraulic pressure for the swinging ‘arms so that you can barely hold back the arm When it is activated in the Manual operation mode. ‘The pressure is adjusted by tuming the WAPPressure Reducing Valve mounted at the exireme left corner of the hydraulic manifold on the front edge and below the 201 solenoid valve. Refer to Figure 2-25 Adjusting the Swinging Arm Speed Adjust the speed of the swinging arm move. ment for a smooth even motion both up and down-—it should not be too fast or too jerky. Tum the color flow valve on top of the swinging arm rotac located at the extreme left end of the swinging arm shaft as you face the machine to make speed adjustments. Refer 1o Figure 2-26 Figure 2:26 Swinging Arm Speed Adjustment Adjusting the Swinging Arm Timing Adjust the 101 CR Time Delay Relay located inside the electrical panel at the lower right-hand corner of the swing-out-deck. Refer to Figure 2-27. This relay synchronizes the timing of the swinging arm movement with the mold open- ing action of the machine cycle. If the swinging arm fingers grasp the bottle’s tail too soon In the cycle they pick up heat from the hot bottle and cause the tails to stick to the fingers. Adjust the time delay relay by turning the hor zontal knob on the timing unit clockwise or coun terclockwise until you hear the sound of the air exhausting from the mold just as the swinging arm fingers close to grasp the bottle's tail T2P = eee Figure 2-27 Swinging Arm Time Delay Adjusting the Swinging Arm Fingers Limit Switch LS-201 controls the closing and the opening of the swinging arm fingers that grasp and then release the {ail flash of the blown bottle. An adjustable cam on the swinging arm shaft actuates the limit switch to close the fingers. Adjust the cam to close the fingers al the very top of the swing A second adjustable cam on the shaft actu- ates the limit switch to open the fingers and re. ease the bottle on the down swing. Adjust the ‘second cam so that the fingers open as soon as the bottle is in position to lay properly in the cooling bed. Refer to Figure 2-28. > Su Figure 2-28 Adjust LS-201 Cam DownSECTION Ill MACHINE MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES 3.1 Hydraulic Dump Valve General itis important to remember that whenever you work on the hydraulic system you must always open up the hydraulic dump valve at the ex treme left side of the power paok, turing it coun: terclockwise to open. Refer to Figure 3-1. Be sure to close the dump valve when you are finished. The hydraulic system holds pres- sure almost indefinitely and if a vaive or con- nection is removed while it is under pressure hydraulic oil will spray out that could start a disastrous fire if it hit a heating element. Figure 3-1 Hydraulic Dump Valve 3.2 System Pressure Set Up (Single Pump System) ‘Adjust the pressure compensator mounted on top of pump to read 1500 PSI, Refer to Figure 3-2. Turning the knob clockwise will increase pressure; counterclockwise will decrease pressure. Figure 3-2 Hydraulic Pump Compensator 20 Note: Make sure safety has been reset be- fore making this adjustment. Balancing the Hydraulic Pump Loads. (Double Pump Systems) Baiance the load between the two hydraulic pumps by using an ammeter probe to assure that both pump motors are drawing approximately the same current, peaking at approximately 15 amps (480 V). The inside pump gauge should read 1500 PSI; the outside pump may be as low as 1450 when the pump motors are equally matched electrically. Refer to 3-3. Turning pres- sure compensator clockwise will increase pressure; counterclockwise will decrease pressure Note: Make sure safety has been reset before making this adjustment Figure 3-3 Hydraulic Double Pump System 3.3 Adjusting Low Pressure Close Safety Setting Press the Emergency Stop button and while the bell is ringing turn on the hydraulic pump and read the pressure gauge mounted on top of the pump. For the low-pressure {moid close action) the gauge should register 500-550 PSI for a large clamp machine or 350-400 PSI tor a smaller clamp. Reter to Figure 3-4. Adjust the Low Pressure Relie! Valve located at the right rear corner of the hydraulic manifold. First loosen the 4s inch lock nut located on top of the valve, next agjust the knurled knob to the proper setting, then rolock the nut and reset the safety circutt.Figure 3-4 Low Pressure Relief Valve 3.4 Adjusting Clamp Rotac High Pressure Set the hydraulic pressure to the mold clamp rotac at 950 PSI maximum by adjusting the Pres- ‘sure Reducing WAP Valve beneath the 4-way valve. Located in the center of the hydraulic ‘manifold. Refer to Figure 3-5. A pressure gauge 0 0-300 PSI, non-shocking type can be perma- rently connected to the center port of the 4-way valve (using the top Yé inch pipe plug at the back of the 4-way valve) so that rotac pres- sute can be checked daily. Check the rotac pres: ‘sure at least once a week, if there is no permanently installed gauge. Lise % Figure 3-5 Pressure Reducing Valve 3.5 Adjusting Shot Pressure Read the shot pressure during the ram for- ‘ward motion on the pressure gauge mounted next to the shot cylinder at the rear of the machine. Adjust pressure only between shots (when there is no pressure in the cylinder) by turning the Manitrol Flow Control Valve (color banded) clockwise to reduce, counterclockwise to inorease pressure to a nominal 1250-1300 PSI, Refer to Figure 3-6. On machines equipped with a shot booster there are two Manitrol valves, one standing straight up above the cylinder, the other projecting out through the shrouding. See Note for 350R4 locations. Bal- ance the two valves’ pressure by making sure thal the same color bands are exposed on both Manitrol valves, Note: The 350R4 uses a numbered flow control valve mounted on a manifold located on the ‘ight rear side of the machine. Oho Figure 3-6 Shot Pressure Manitrol Control Valves i" Pressure ‘Check the "Fill" pressure at the shot cylinder gauge at the rear of the machine, during the ‘charge motion of the cycle. Adjust the “Fill” Pres- sure Relief Valve located immediately above the temperature controllers (350R2). Refer to Fig ure 3-7. (See Note below for 250R1 and Figure 3-7 Fill Pressure Relief Valve 350R2 21380R4.) Turn the valve clockwise until you can see plastic begin to weep out of the die as the screw retracts (Charge). Now turn the valve back up to a quarter of a turn (counterclockwise) un- til plastic stops weeping. Maintain enough "Fill pressure to squeeze air bubbles out of the plas- tic and to keep the shot firmly packed, Note: 250R1 “Fill” pressure relief valve is fo- cated at the lower right side of A-frame. 350R4 “Fill” pressure relief valve is located to the right rear comer of the shot manifold block 3.7 Cleaning or Replacing Hydraulic Suction Filter (Quarterly Maintenance) The hydraulic suction fiter is located at the far right hand side of the hydraulic power unit in front of the hydraulic pump. During scheduled quarterly maintenance remove, clean or replace the fiter. Once a week check the sight glass on top of the filter—a red color in the glass (normally yellow) indicates the filter is plugged and needs immediate cleaning Remove the interior filter by loosening the two Allen set screws at the left of the filter cap, open- ing the cap and sliding out the fiter cartridge. Re- fer to Figure 3-8. Remove the magnet holder around the perimeter of the filter inside the canister. Clean both fiter and magnets thoroughly with a cleaning solvent. Before replacing the filter check the O-ring in the canister to be sure itis not worn and makes a positive tight seal—it ‘not, remove and replace. Replace the filter and tighten the cap in place with the Allen set screws. Figure 3-8 Remove and Clean Suction Fier 3.8 Checking Nitrogen Charge Pressure The nitrogen charge accumulator that stores hydraulic pressure for the shot cylinder is lo- cated beneath the catwalk and behind the door to the main drive motor. Itis a steel tank with a heavy Buna-N rubber bag inside. If machine is equipped with a shot booster a second accumula: tor mounted on top of the catwalk will also need to be checked. Check nitrogen pressure during the regular quarterly maintenance schedule to see that it registers between 1050-1100 PSI, which is about 70% of the hydraulic system pressure. Before checking nitrogen pressure be sure to open the hydraulic dump valve located at the extreme left of the hydraulic power unit Use the nitrogen charging kit (charging hose, nitrogen gauge, and filing device) to check the pressure. Remove the screw-on protective cap at the end of the nitrogen bottle. Under the cap is a Schroder check valve similar to that seen (on most auto tires. Connect the nitrogen charg- ing kit and read the pressure on the gauge. Re- fer to Figure 3-9. If less than 1000 PSI pressure you will need to add more nitrogen. To do this connect the charging hose from the valve adapter to the outlet of a commercial nitrogen pressure bottle. Open the nitrogen bottle vaive slowly and ‘add nitrogen until the gauge pointer is at or be- low 1100 PSI. Bleed excess pressure through the check valve as necessary. Too much of t00 lit- tle nitrogen will not allow the hydraulic system to function properly Figure 3-9 Nitrogen Charging Kit It the accumulator’s Buna-N rubber bag in- side should rupture, a cloud of oil will rise from the hydraulic tank and shot pressure will drop ‘quickly. If this happens remove and replace the rubber bag immediately. 3.9 Adjusting the Drive Belts Four C-section V-belts transmit power from the drive motor to the reducing gear box. (Model 250A1 uses three C-section V-belts.) Each of 22the matched set of belts must have the same ten- sion to prevent uneven wear of the drive bear- ing and shaft. Check tension at the middle of the belt span so that the belt deflects only %s inch when you apply a force between 5.5 and 8.5 pounds, Step 1: Loosen the four top nuts on the legs that con: ‘rect the motor base plate to the machine base. ‘One or two counterclockwise turns will do it Step 2: Lift the motor to relieve tension on the belts by moving the chain beneath the base plate to the right (clockwise). Reter to Figure 3-10. This chain engages sleeve-nut rollers on each of the four legs and thus raises or lowers the motor evenly on all legs at once. Ball bearings above the sleeve-nut rollers permit them to turn freely against the bottom of the base plate. If necessary. remove and replace the belts with another matched set Keto aiNc Figure 9-10 Adjusting Motor Mounting Plate Step 3: Adjust to the proper tension by lowering the ‘motor in small stages by moving the chain very slightly to the left (counterclockwise) until the ball bearings barely move with the pressure of the tip of your finger, then tighten the top nuts. Measure the deflection with a tension tester and straight edge. Refer to Figure 3-11. Repeat this sequence—loosen nuts, move chain lef, tighten nuts, check deflection—as often as necessary nti the deflection is exactly % inch. 3.10 Checking for Clamp Rotac Leakage The rolary actuator, or rotac, provides the high pressure lock-up force that clamps the molds together against the blow pressure, A smaller clamp machine will have one rotac; larger clamps may have two rotacs equally spaced on either side of the centerline of the clamp—all mounted between the rear and center platens of the clamp, Figure 3-11 Adjusting Drive Belt Tensions Step 1: Change the machine operation from Automatic to Manual and then have another person push and hold down the Mold Close bution. Check by feeling each of the two high pressure hoses connected to the rotac to find which one is Pressurized. Step 2: Continue to hold down the Mold Close but- ton while removing the hose that does not have pressure by unscrewing the hose coupling fit ling at the hydraulic manifold, Immediately put the ‘open end of the hose in an empty pall. Refer to Figure 3-12. With this hose disconnected do not push the Mold Open button. LeakageStep 3: Check the flow from the hose. A steady stream of oll about the thickness of a pencil indi- cates serious leakage. Replace all oil seals in the rotac unit i such leakage occurs. If leakage persists replace the whole rotac unit Step 4: if machine is equipped with two rotac units, follow this procedure for each rotac by blocking off the lines at each rotac and checking individually. If there is litle or no flow from the hose, reconnect all hoses and retighten fitings. 3.11 Maintaining the Automatic Lubricating System This system automatically lubricates all toggle bearings, tie bar bushings, platen shoes and thrust bearing shoes on the machine while in Automatic cycle, Step 1: Refilling the Automatic Grease Reservoir Make a daily check to see that the light is not lowing on the automatic lubrication system con- {rol unit located beneath the clamp on the right side of the machine. A glowing light indicates the grease reservoir is low. Pushing the button ‘on the side of the control unit tests whether the warning light is functioning, Refil the reservoir throuth the grease zerk, using a loaded grease ‘un. Reter to Figure 3-13. Figure 3-13 Fill Automatic Lubrication System ‘Step 2: Reset the Timer The automatic lubrication system timing unit controls the regular injection of grease to all mov: ing parts at intervals, factory set at 10 to 20 minutes, The clock mechanism turns inner and outer rings into which small metal pins are inserted. The pins trip switches that turn the 24 ‘grease injection pump on and off. A pin in the ‘outer ring starts the pump, another pin diago- nally opposite on the inner ring shuts off the pump. Refer to Figure 9-14. It there is excess grease on the tie bars, reset the timer pins in holes further apart for a longer interval between shots; decrease the pin interval ifthe tie bar bushings are too dry. For extra grease injection (between timed intervals) push the red button on the lower left corner of the timer control unit. Hold the button down for several seconds before releasing it for each extra shot of grease. Figure 3-14 Automatic Lubrication Timer 3.12 Maintaining the Air Supply System ‘Adequate air supply for the blow molder, the trimmer and the hopper loader must be sup: plied at a pressure of 100 PSI and at a flow rate of 70 SCFM (Standard Cubic Feed per Minute). The air supply is connected through a main push: pull shut-off valve into two air filters in series located above the clamp opposite the main con trol panel. Refer to Figure 3-15.Check Supply Pressure Check the main pressure regulator above the fiters and adjust to 80 PSI, if necessary. Clean Air Filters Monthly Push the shut-off valve to the “Ot” position. Tum the thumbscrew on the filter unit counter- clockwise to release the filter cartridges inside Clean all accumulated dust and debris from the filter cartridges or replace them with new cartridges. Remount and tighten the thumb screws then pull the shut-off valve back to the ‘On” position. The automatic fiter drain system requires no maintenance. Adjusting the Pre-Blow Air Pressure ‘After start-up on a new run adjust pre-biow air pressure to a nominal 20 PSI. Check to see if too much flash is being blown out behind the flash pockets of the mold. If so, turn the screw on top of the Pre-Blow Air Regulator (beside the main air manitold), refer to Figure 3-16, counter- clockwise to reduce the pressure slowly. If bot ties are not formed properly, for example without ‘a complete handle, tum the regulator sorew clock- wise to increase the pre-blow air pressure. i 3 Figure 3-16 Pre-Blow Regulator Check Air Lubricator Daily Add SAE 10 oil to fill the glass sight-level bowl on the air lubricator as needed. Refer to Fig. ure 1-6 3.13 Maintaining the Barre! Cooling Assembly The extruder barrel cooling assembly is an independent closed system located inside and above the machine's hydraulic compartment. Re- fer to Figure 3-17. (Model 250R1 barrel cooling assembly is located above and outside hydrau: lic compartment.) The assembly pumps @ heat transfer fluid through the heater bands and a 25 heat exchanger before returning it to @ reservoir tank Checking Barrel Coolant Temperature Alter the machine has been running at least one hour, check the temperature gauge at the ‘center of the assembly's reservoir tank. The ‘gauge should normally register between 150-200 degrees Fahrenheit, Refer to Figure 3-17. J ml Figure 3-17 Barrel Cooling Clean and Refill Barrel Cooling Tank Annually Drain the reservoir tank once a year by open- ing the drain plug into a 15 gallon container. Re- move the tank from the assembly and pull off the top of the tank. Scoop out the sludge settled in the bottom of the tank and flush it thoroughly. Replace the top and the tank in the assembly, lose the drain plug, and open the fill plug on top of the tank. Now refill the tank, using 15 gal Jons of new heat transfer fluid Cleaning Barrel Cooling Solenoids Occasionally dirt blocks the barrel cooling so- lenoid valves operated by the temperature controllers, and prevents coolant flow through the heater band or jams the valve in an open position. The result is either overheating or overcooling of the heater bands. In elther case, shut down the machine and shut off the heats at the main operators panel before re- moving the solenoid vaive from the assembly. Be careful—the fluid is very hot. Take ‘out the solenoid plunger and diaphragm and clean thoroughly to remove any dirt or plastic clogging the orifice. Refer to Figure 3-18. Reas- semble that solenoid or replace it before bring- ing the machine back up to operating temperature.Figure 3-18 Barrel Cooling Solenoid Valve 3.14 The Head Tooling ‘The head tooling - die and mandrel assembly shape the walls of the plastic parison to an even thickness. Both die and mandrel are accurately machined to a precision of several ten- thousandths of an inch to obtain smooth and even parison wall surfaces. Refer to Figure 3-19. Im- properly shaped tooling can hamper plastic flow and create dead spots or voids in the parison Moreover, plastic that is degraded or burnt in the head can adhere to the surface of the head tool- ing causing streaks or slits in the parison. Run- ning through several more cycles with a larger die gap may clean up the problem. But if not, the head tooling will have to be cleaned. Refer to cleaning procedure 3.16. Figure 3-19 Die and Mandre! 3.15 Using Purging Compound A purging compound (such as Bakelite DFO 0964 Natural 7) can be an effective method for cleaning burnt resin or other contaminants from the head tooling. The recommended procedure is as follows: 41. Emply hopper and run scrow dry. 26 2, Open die orifice at least two full turns. 3. Add 25 pounds of purge compound (for a 3 Ya inch screw) to the hopper and run exiruder until it comes out of die. 4, Shut down machine (cold) for at least 8 hours. 5. Turn heats back on, resetting temperature controls to 250°F-260°F. 6. Aun extruder motor at low speed, not more than 90-95% maximum load. 7. Run extruder until itis emptied of purge compound. 8. Turn heats up to operating temperatures. 9. Fill hopper wit virgin resin. and run tough extruder unti there is no further evidence of the purge compound. 10. Turn on regring, reset the die openings, and return to normal operation 3.16 Disassembling and Cle: Tooling Allowing the machine to remain at idle without extruding resin while the head heaters are kept at their operating temperatures will tend to de- grade and even bum the plastic and cause a build-up on the head tooling. Persistent clogging that cannot be purged makes it necessary to disassemble the head tooling for cleaning, 1. Bring the machine up to operating temperature. WARNING: Be sure to use asbestos work gloves to handle any part of the hot head fooling. 2, Remove blow pin and stripper plate from die head. 3. If removing diverging tooling rotate the man- drel adjusting nut on top of the head by fuming counterclockwise. Refer to Figure 19 Head Note: if converging tooling is used the die(s) must be removed first. Perform steps 6 through 8 first, then return to steps 4 and 6. 4. Lower mandrel carefully from die and clean while stil hot WARNING: Protect the molds - cover with cardboard when removing head tooling. 5. Gloan mandrel by scraping gently with a copper bar, wire brush, or Scotch Brite cleaning pads. 6. Tum die heaters off (die variacs should register zero) and remove die tip heater band by loosening the retainer Screw. 7. Remove all die retaining screws and drop out the die retaining ring. 8, Loosen all Ferry head cap screws holding the die in piace so it wil not fall and be damaged. Drop out die and clean while stil hot as with the mandrel8. Ona dash-1 head loosen the four pressure ring cap screws and remove the pressure ring for similar cleaning while hot. 10. Inspect interior of head for plastic adhered to pressure ring sealing surface and clean. Figure 3-20 Rotate Mandre! Adjusting Nut Gounterciockwise Reinstall the cleaned head tooling by revers ing the order of the steps given above. In re placing the pressure ring, use feeler gauges to Center the ring in the throat. Refer to Figure 3-21. [twill save a lot of time and adjusting later. When installing the dig, keep all bolts loose using the mandrel as a quide to center the stack up. Then secure all bolts and open mandrel die gap at least one full turn before starting machine. Figure 3-21 Center Pressure Ring 3.17 Repacking the Thrust Bearing The main thrust bearing located ahead of the shot cylinder and behind the extruder gear box, should be disassembled, cleaned and repacked every three months. Refer to Figure 3-22, Figure 3-22 Thrust Bearing ‘Step 1: Remove the Thrust Bearing Prior to removing the thrust bearing you must open the hydraulic dump valve to re- lease all pressure from the shot cylinder. Note: When removing thrust bearing on Model 250R1, the shot cylinder must be removed with the thrust bearing assembly, then disassemble for repacking, using steps 2:8, C, D only. The following procedure is for models 350R2 and 350R4. ‘A. Next, push the thrust bearing back from the ball spline that is keyed in place by the thrust bearing rotary housing. Using a long wooden 2 ~ 4 (or something to pry with) slide the thrust bear- ing back unti it is clear of both the shot cylinder and ball spline. Refer to Figure 3-23. Figure 3-23 Slide Thrust Bearing Clear for Removal B. Disconnect the automatic lubricating system line at the bearing housing, (I applicable.) C. Lift the thrust bearing out with a lft truck or crane using the lift hole in the thrust bearinghousing to secure an eye-bolt. Refer to Figure 3-24, Remove all brackets or machine parts that would be in the way of a straight verti- cal lift from the machine. . Lower the thrust bearing gently to lay flat (on the floor. Figure 3-24 Remove Thrust Bearing with Crane Step 2: Cleaning and Repacking the Thrust Bearing ‘A. Removing the six bolts that hold the split ring to the stationary housing. Then lft out the rotary housing. The top race, thrust bearing and bottom race can now be removed. Refer to Fig- ure 3-25. Figure 3-25 Thrust Bearing Disassemblec B. Clean the bearing and races thoroughly ina commercial cleaning solvent to remove alt grease and accumulated din. Inspect all races and bearing surfaces for wear and replace if necessary. C. Replace the bottom race, keeping lettering 28 on race away from bearing surface. The top race is larger and the chamfer is slightly diferent Do not try to interchange the top and bottom races. Before proceeding with the grease repack. ing process, make sure all surfaces are clean and dry of any solvent residue. D. Repack bearing using Lithium-type grease forcing grease in and around all bearing rollers. Then replace the bearing to its housing and fill to about %th the depth of the housing WARNING: Too much or too little grease results in overheating and premature bearing wear Step 3: Reinstalling Thrust Bearing When replacing the thrust bearing in the ma chine reverse the sequence given above for re- moving it. Be sure that the hydraulic dump valve is open (not closed) and the keyways on the ball spline are aligned to the keys on the rotary housing, Refer to Figure 3-26. Then jg the hydraulic pump on and off in short bursts 80 the shot cylinder moves slowly up against the thrust bearing, then close the dump valve Se” Figure 3-26 Align Ball Spline to Thrust Bearing 3.18 How to Remove or Replace Mold Inserts Mold inserts are used to compensate for varia- tions in bottle volume. A gallon bottle, for example, that is not filled immediately after blow: ing can shrink in 24 hours enough to hold 1 % ounces less than a bottle filled straight from the mold. A flush insert in the inner face of each mold half will allow for the 1% ounce shrinkage. In- dented inserts can be used for bottles filled right after molding. Refer to Figure 3-27.LPP MROTATE. 180°, ~ INDENTED la Strss Figure 3-29 Remove Volume Control insert Figure 3-27 Flush and Indented Volume Control Inserts, Step 1: Removing Mold Inserts ‘A. Looking down at the top of the mold, un- lock the cap screw, using a %e inch Allen wrench, which holds the % inch hex head stem. Refer to Figure 3-28. Figure 3-28 Loosen Locking Scrow: B. Tum the hex head stem counterclockwise to unlock. C. Rotate the insert 180°—half a full turn—and pull the insert from the mold Step 2: Replacing Mold Inserts Replacing the mold insert is essentially the re- verse of the removal procedure given above. A. Rotate the inser into the recess in the mold revolving it through 180°, making sure that the dowel pin is aligned in the hole of the insert. Re- fer to Figure 3-29. B. Turn the hex head stem clockwise until the insert is flush with the mold surface, about a halt turn, C. Tighten the Allen cap screw to lock the stem in place. 29SECTION IV MAINTAINING THE COOLING BED 4.1 Cooling Bed Clutch Adjustment Between the cooling bed and the gear box is a hex nut with two set screws. Refer to Figure 4-1. Loosen both set screws. Now turn the hex. nut clockwise to tighten the clutch, counterclock: wise to loosen it. The clutch should be loose enough so that you can hold back the push rods by exerting hand pressure. Figure 4-1 Loosen Set Screws 4.2 Straightening Push Rods On the front side of the cooling bed under the adjustable chain tightener there is an opening in the frame, Move the bent push rod around un- tilit is opposite this opening. Refer to Figure 4-2, Mark the hole location on the chain before removing the two socket head cap screws that hold the rod in place. When replacing straight- ened rod, use lock-tite on each cap screw to secure. Figure 4-2 lemoving Pusher Rods 30 4.3 Adjusting Cooling Bed Index Limit Switch The index timit switch controls the stop posi- tion of the push rods and is mounted on the clutch assembly. Refer to Figure 4-3. Adjusting the cam activates the limit switch to stop the cook ing bed sooner or later in the bed cycle so that the falling blown botties will lay in the proper po- sition on the bed. Figure 4-3 Index Limit Switch and Cam 4.4 Greasing Bearings and Checking Gear Box Fluid Add grease once a week to the two grease zerts beneath the bearings at both ends of the live roller at the output end of the cooling bed ‘Also check tluid level of the gear box on a weekly basis, filing with 90 gear lube. Refer to Lubrication Figure 1-8.SECTION V MAINTAINING THE TRIMMER 5.1 Check Trimmer Satety Doors Every Shift At the beginning of each shift the operator should check all five safety doors around the trim: mer with the power “On” and the trimmer safety reset amber light “On.” Lift the first door and check to see that the amber reset warming light beside the control goes off, then close the door and push the reset button. Refer to Figure 5-1 ‘The amber light should turn on. Repeat this pro: ‘cedure for each of the five trimmer doors. It any door is not working properly, first check the door's limit switch and replace it it it does not de- energize the safety when the door opens. If there is stil no warning light, trace the control circuit to see it it has been shorted or bypassed with a jump wire at the control panel. These safely doots must be maintained and checked on a daily basis. Figure 6-1 Check Trimmer Safety Doors 5.2 Checking Trimmer Leak Detector (Optional Equipment, AIS Unit Only) ‘An optional leak detector will be located near the end of the trimmer line where a probe is inserted into the neck of the blown bottle. The probe seals off the neck and introduces air at bout one half to one pound per square inch of pressure. Refer to Figure 5-2. Loss of air pres sure in a leaking bottle trips a relay to deacti- vate the pusher. thus the defective bottle is conveyed in a reject bin. Before making any ad- justments be sure main leak detector regula- tor is set at 30 PSI and the nose cone cylinder regulator set at no more than 15 PSI. Refer to Figure 5-3 and Figure 5-4 at .« - Figure 5:2 Leak Detector Probe Figure 5-4 Probe Nose Cone Regulator When adjusting sensitivity of the detector, fist back off the pressure sequence regulating valve to its lowest possible setting, normally Yo to 1 PSI The ted indicator light shows length of puise coming from pressure switch. Pulse should be positive but not lengthy, and adjustment should bbe made during normai operation. The pulse is controlled by the top screw on pressure switch, clockwise to shorten pulse, counterclockwise tolengthen pulse. If indicator light does not pulse when inspecting a good bottle turn pressure ad: justment screw counterclockwise. If indicator light remains on, even when not inspecting a bottle, be sure pressure is al its lowest possi ble setting, then turn pressure adjustment screw clockwise until ight goes out. 5.3 Checking Trimmer Jam-Up Protection Trimmed bottles may jam up in front of the pusher rod that ejects good bottles into a collec: tion bin or conveyor. If the pusher rod cannot advance far enough to activate the Limit Switch LS-107 when itis extended, it will kick out the trimmer reset. Clear the jam-up and push the re: set button on the trimmer control panel to re: turn to normal cycle. Check operation by holding the arm that trips the LS-107 while in Manual operation mode. If you cannot hold the arm back, air pressure to the pusher cylinder is set too high. Reduce pres: sure at the air pressure regulator located un: der the pusher assembly Note: If trimmer is equipped with an air blow off, the jam-up protection circuit is not used 5.4, Adjusting Trimmer Tooling Trimmer tooling consists of upper and lower nests", each with shear action dies at front, back, top and bottom positions. Closing upper and lower nests shears off flash around the edge of the bottle. The top die of each nest is fixed in position, but the bottom die moves front or back in a pre-centered, slotted keyway. Refer to Fig ure 5-5. y Ne = a SLOTTED KEY HOLES Figure 5:5 Trim Tooling Bottom Nest Adjust the trimmer tooling by placing a newly formed trimmed bottle, one that has not had time to shrink, in the trimmer conveyor bucket. Posi: tion the bottom nest so that the die edge of the top nest will close on the outside of the bottom nest, and as close as possible to the front guides, Adjust the bottom rear die to within “se inch of the bottom surface of the bottle by “jogging” the trimmer in short bursts to bring it into position. Adjust the top rear die so that it will be flush with the bottom rear die and will snap off the tail flash of the bottle. Refer to Figure 5-6 Le Figure 5-6 Positioning Top and Bottom Dies Aiter the trim tooling is set, adjust the top S-bar to within %e inch of the bottle resting in the conveyor bucket. Adjust all guide rods to insure proper quidance into the trim nest. Refer to Fig- ure 5-7. Figure 5-7 Trimmor S-Bar and Guide Rods 5.5 Keeping Your Trimmer Clean Clear and clean the trimmer whenever pieces of flash oF botlles accumulate that can interlere. with the trimmer action or upset the transfer mechanisms. Retiming the Trimmer Occasionally, bottles or pieces of flash may hang up in the trimmer transfer mechanism. This can throw the trimmer out of time. If thishappens, shut down the trimmer, clear and clean up all scrap before making any adjustments. Step 1: Remove all shrouding surrounding the gear box and transfer mechanism. Visually check for worn or broken chains and sprockets, Step 2: Jog the trimmer slowly and locate the master link on the bucket indexing chain (single #50) Remove at this time only the indexing chain, Re. fer to Figure 5-8 Step 3: Reapply power, then while jogging the trim- mer a second time, locate the master link in main drive chain (double #50). Jog unti the lead- ing edge of the crank counter weight is aligned with the center bolt of the conveyor mounting angle. Refer to Figure 5-8. Block the platen at this exact position so it will not fall as you are removing the chain, Step 4: Release the brake on the drive motor so the gear box can now be moved freely by hand, Ro- {ate the input shaft until the indexing sprocket just starts to move then stop and back off 5 to 10 degrees. Hold this position until the brake has been re-engaged. ‘TRIMMER INDEXING GUIDE Step 5: Reinstall the main drive chain (double #50) ‘Adjust the take-up sprocket to achieve a rub- ber band tightness. Then remove the blocking that was used to keep the platen trom falling Step 6: Before replacing the indexing chain align a bucket to the exact center of the trim nest. Then reconnect and tighten the chain by adjusting the Idler sprocket making it rubber band tight Step 7: Jog the trimmer through a few cycles and check the alignment. A small amount of index- ing adjustment can be made by rotating the slot ted hub clockwise or counterclockwise to achieve the exact timing. Replace all shrouding and guards before running the trimmer in production CAUTION: Always switch power "OFF" at the trimmer main disconnect before working on ‘or around any moving parts. meee ey Figure 5-8 Trimmer Indexing Guide 33SECTION VI TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE 6.1 Trouble-Shooting Trouble-shooting is one of the most important parts in operating your Uniloy* machine. itis also probably the most challenging and interesting part of the job. For continuous top performance, periodic ad: justment is required just as itis with any finely tuned machine—a Formula 2 racing car for ‘example. Unlike a racing car, however, the ma- chine is safety oriented and will shut down when- ever it senses developing trouble. Conditions over which you may have litle con trot have a bad habit of changing. And that is what usually causes troubles with the machine. There may be a slight difference in resin from Cone lot to the next. Or it could be a shift in the surrounding temperature or humidity that causes ‘rouble in the mold Whatever the cause, the changing condition may well be one that occurs within the machine itself. Troubles you may not be able to see. The machine will handle these by shutting down and ringing a bell asking the operator to do some- thing to correct the problem, Then there are troubles you can see. These are usually bottle troubles that occur either in the parison, in the mold or after the bottle is molded, In this booklet we will treat the internal machine troubles and the bottle troubles in separate sec- tions that are subdivided into categories that will make it easier for you to find the trouble. Machine troubles, though mostly hidden, leave some hints behind. The most important one to remember is the point in the cycle where the machine has stopped, or “rung out”; it will tel you where to start looking. One problem is that many different machine troubles have very similar symptoms or causes. In many cases when a trouble pops up you will have to try a number of remedies before you find the right one. In the trouble-shooting guide that follows, only the most probable causes of the particular trou ble will be dealt with. It should be second nature for the trained operator to check out all obvious trouble sources first, before picking up the guide. The warning lights are part of the safely circuit that is designed to protect the operator as much as the machine. Whenever any one of the many relays or switches fails to operate during the machine cycle the safety circuit will be broken, a4 no current will flow in it and the machine will immediately “ring out;"—to protect both you and itseft. “Ring out" is our shorthand way of saying that the warning bell will sound and at the same time the machine will stop in the midst of the operat- ing cycle. You can save yourself a lot of time—not to mention more trouble—it you check out the possible causes of trouble in this guide before doing anything else, Whether or not you cure the trouble, you are going to need the information you will get from this check-out process. It is exactly the kind of information you are going to need to give to our customer service engineer When you pick up your phone and dial our HOT LINE—OUT OF STATE 1-800-521-2257; IN MICHIGAN 1-800-482-2285. We welcome all calls from our customers at any time of the working day. To save you a lot of time running back and forth from machine to phone, we recommend that you use this guide first. you have done so, our engineer will be able to quickly zero in on the source of your particular trouble—and get your machine back in production as fast as possible. Keep in mind that the troubles here are listed generally in order of the frequency of their oc- currence. The first trouble is the one that happens most often—the one we get most calls about Use good common sense in dealing with sug- gested repairs and replacements. Replacing a coolant system motor, for instance, may cost a great deal more than repairing the motor winding. But, if the repair means a lot of downtime that could be even more costly. It may be simpler in the long run to replace the motor and keep the repaired one as a spare. This trouble-shooting guide is meant only to give maintenance personnel and machine opera- tors something to refer to when trying to correct a problem. itis impossible to include every possibil- ity which might be the cause of a problem and indeed, the solution may be a combination of several important things to remember when trouble-shooting a problem, 4. Think! about the problem and the possible reasons for it before you try anything 2, Try one change at a time. Don't lose your perspective. 3. Be patient! Give a change an oppor- tunity to work before you try some: thing else. Far example, a change in the barrel or head temperature maytake 15 to 20 minutes before its tue effect will be noticed 4, Ione change doesn't work, return that change to its original before tying something else 5. Observe and lear from the incorrect changes that have been made. For example, if you find that lowering the head temperature aggravates a si uation, then raise the samo tempera- ture to see if improvement occurs. 6. Alter a problem appears to be solved, watch the machine for a while to be sure something else hasn't been upset 7. Communicate with others so they can learn from your work 8. Use machine setup sheets and re- cord the changes made regardloss of what effect it had on the operation. Don't forget—call us when you have run ‘out of possible corrective actions, or when- ever you have a real emergency that cannot wait. We will be ready to help with whatever resources we can command. BLOW MOLDING TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE FOR INTERMITTENT EXTRUSION MACHINES 6.2 Machine Troubles - General TROUBLE _ SAFETY BUTTON will not reset. (HYDRAULIC OIL, SAFETY) Machine RINGS OUT before parison drops. (OVERFILL SAFETY) _CAUSE Hydraulic oil overheated. i SWITCH defective on oil tank, ‘TD TIMER timed out. (Screw overfill) *LS-17 overfill. switch activated. * Used on machines without 7TD TIMER 35 TEMPERATURE __WHAT TO DO __ Check temperature of water heat exchanger. (See Hydraulic System 6.5) Replace defective TS-3, Adjust 77D TIMER. Adjust LS-1A, cycle times andior RPM of _drive. a Adjust cycle time and? or RPM of drive,TROUBLE Machine RINGS OUT when molds should close atter parison drop, (STRIPPER SAFETY) Machine RINGS OUT as molds close. (LOW PRESSURE CLOSE SAFETY) Machine RINGS OUT as molds reach full open position. (OUT OF MATERIAL SAFETY) STRIPPER PLATE does not go down. STRIPPER PLATE does not return to “UP position, ‘TEMPERATURE CONTROL- LER does not turn on heat to heater zones, TEMPERATURE CON- TROLLER does not reach set point CAUSE LS-6 LIMIT SWITCH is nol actuated in the 'UP” position. Plastic hung up on stripper plate Hydraulic low- pressure set too low. Mechanical drag on tie bars. STD TIMER defective or set to0 low. LIMIT SWITCH does not actuate or is, defective. Machine out of resin Screw did not retract far enough to activate LS-1A. LS-4 LIMIT SWITCH does not actuate as molds open. Solenoid #7 coil burned out or valve spool does not move. LS-6 not actuated in down position Valve Spool does not move. Pointer al fill scale indicates ‘open Thermocouple. Defecti Controller ‘Thermocouple short circuited. Cooling valve stuck open. 36 WHAT To DO Adjust LS-6 actuator cam. Clean stripper plate. Adjust low-pressure higher. Lubricate tie bars Replace or adjust limit switch, Refill hopper with resin. Adjust LS-1A, LIMIT SWITCH, Screw RPM, and/or Cycle Timer. ‘Adjust switch actuator rod or replace switch ~ Repair or replace pars Adjust actuator cam to make LS-6 actuate when stripper is down, Giean or replace spool Replace Thermocouple. ~~ Replace Controller. Replace Thermocouple. Replace cooling valve.TROUBLE All die heaters heat up, 115-V OUTLETS and TROUBLE LIGHT do not work. 115-V OUTLETS and TROUBLE LIGHT do not work. HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR does not start (1M) STOCK TEMPERATURE instrument does not reset. EXTRUDER MOTOR does not start CAUSE Temperature Controller defective, (F9) fuse melted, circuit open: (F8) fuse melted, Circuit open. ‘Overload” switch has tripped open at either: BARREL COOLANT MOTOR (3M) HYDRAULIC MOTOR (1M) GEAR BOX ‘COOLANT MOTOR (4M) CLUTCH COOLANT MOTOR (4M) ORIVE MOTOR (2M) Head heater or metering heat zones not up to heat. ‘Thermocouple short- circuited. instrument defective. Overload” switch has tripped open at either: BARREL COOLANT MOTOR (3M) HYDRAULIC MOTOR (1M) GEAR BOX COOLANT MOTOR (4m) CLUTCH COOLANT MOTOR (5M) DRIVE MOTOR (2M) 37 WHAT TO DO Replace Controller Replace fuse. Replace fuse. Reset overload. Correct respective heat zone trouble. (See Heater Troubles 6.3) Relace thermocouple. Replace instrument Reset overload.TROUBLE _ CAUSE WHAT TO DO — Stock Temperature Reset Stock Temperature indicating Controller. controller has ‘not been reset. Barrel cooling Turn on barrel ‘pump not running cooling pump. CLUTCH does not Water pressure not Check coolant level star. above 11-PSI in clutch cooling needed. nk, and refill i Clutch cooling motor jeset “overload”, or not running. __teplace motor. _ Temperature switch ‘Allow coolant and open Clutch to coo! and then check for the source of the overheating, CLUTCH runs at full Detective clutch Replace printed speed at all speed contro} board. ‘circuit board and settings. recalibrate. CLUTCH speed Drive Controller Check adjustment of erratic. out of adjustment, Controller settings. (Eddy Current (Calibration Controller) procedure in drive ___instruetion manual.) - Drive beit For belt adjustment tension wrong. procedure see Machine Maintenance Manual. SCREW does not A collar has formed Pour 10-15 gallons retract all or on screw. of handle slugs into part of the way, Lack of resit Defective manual Replace pushbutton CHARGE pushbutton. ee Burned out solenoid Replace coll coll on CHARGE VALVE. (Solenoid #1) MATERIAL WEEPS Fill pressure Reduce fil pressure from dies as too high. until weeping stops. sorew retracts, 38TROUBLE _ Machine does not go into AUTO CYCLE. MOLDS do not close. CAUSE, DOOR LIMIT SWITCHES aro not actuated, LS-9A, LS-9B, LS-9C, Ls-90) DOOR AIR VALVES (Versa Valves) do not actuate, are defective, or PS-3, PRESSURE ‘SWITCH does not actuate. Defective CYCLE ‘START button. PRE-BLOW, BLOW and EXHAUST TIMERS do not reset at end of oyee. Solenoid #3 energizes but valve does not ‘shift. Low pressure (Hydraulic) set {oolow. ‘Spool sticks in hydraulic valve #9 _WHAT TO DO Close door, adjust or replace limit switch, ‘Adjust or replace valve, and/or pressure switch defective Jammed LS-3 LIMIT SWITCH should be cleared Replace solenoid. ‘Adjust low pressure to 350-PSI Free spool, or change valve assembly, MOLDS do not go into Defective or ‘Adjust or replace high-pressure improperly LS-2 LIMIT SWITCH. lock-up. adjusted LS-2 LIMIT SWITCH. Solenoid #2 has burned-out coil Spool sticks in "Free spool or hydraulic valve #2 replace. MOLDS fail to LS-1 LIMIT SWITCH Replace LS-1 LIMIT close automatically but close manually. Some BLOW PINS do not blow. not actuated. CHARGE DELAY TIMER. PRE-BLOW, BLOW AND EXHAUST TIMERS do not reset BLOWIEXHAUST Ross air valve sticks. Plugged blow pin. 39 ‘SWITCH. Replace 1TD TIMER. Repair or replace jammed LS-3 LIMIT SWITCH. Clean, repair or replace valves. Clean biow pin.TROUBLE CAUSE WHAT TODO _ HIGH-PRESSURE AIR PRE-BLOW DELAY or Replace PRE-BLOW blow does not BLOW DELAY TIMER DELAY TIMER or operate. does not time out. LOW-DELAY TIMER. Solenoid #5 or #6 Repair or replace | sticks or coil solenoid valve or burned out coil EXHAUST TIMER (27D), LS-3 LIMIT SWITCH Repair or replace BLOW DELAY TIMER head sticks. limit switch or (3TD), and BLOW head. TIMER (4D) do not reset when molds open. No LOW-PRESSURE AIR Solenoid #5 has Replace coil blow. burned out coil, — Valve #5 sticks Free spool or replace. and unable to shift SWINGING ARMS do not D101 TIME DELAY Adjust or replace 0 up in automatic not timing out 401 TIMER. oyole. ‘SWINGING ARM fingers Ls-102 LIMIT SWITCH Replace LS-102 LIMIT 40 not close or defective or SWITCH or adjust open. actuator out of actuator. adjustment. 6.3 Machine Troubles - Heaters TROUBLE __CAUSE _ WHAT TO DO —_ ‘Any HEATER ZONE Blown fuses in Replace fuses as fails to heat heater circuit. needed. properly: red ——. : - pilot light on. Detective Check Controller. Control. | Defective heater. Check zone amp draw; replace heater as required. TEMPERATURE Pointer at full Replace thermocouple: CONTROLLER does not scale, indicates turn on heat to open thermocourle. heater zones, oe Detective Replace Controller temperature Controller, 40TROUBLE _ _ CAUSE TEMPERATURE ‘Thermocouple CONTROLLER does not short-circuited reach set point, = but heaters are Cooling valve working, stuck open. _ Defective temperature Controle. Feed transition or Barrel cooling metering ZONES system not functioning. OVERHEAT. Defective Skinner valves. NHAT TO DO Repair or replace Thermocouple. Replace or repair cooling valve. Replace Controller. Check pump pressure. 160K Haid Tevel indicator. Check coolant temperature, if high, increase coolant flow to heat exchanger. Repair or replace Skinner valve, clean - as needed. 6.4 Machine Troubles - Pneumatic System TROUBLE CAUSE BLOW AIR fails to Flow air selector shut off valve stuck, BLOW AIR TIMER fails to time out Stripper cylinder No air cylinder WHAT TO DO Repair or replace “selector valve. Replace 4TD TIMER. Fill or adjust air is erratic. lubrication, oiler Stripper guide Lubricate guide bar tod bearing not bearings lubricated. STRIPPER action Air flow controls Adjust as required too hard. improperly adjusted. PARISON sticks to Stripper not Increase stripper STRIPPER piate. returning fast speed: with flow enough. control vaive ‘Stripper plate misaligned. 4 Advance LS-4 LIMIT ‘SWITCH TRIP ROD. Adjust LS-6 LIMIT ‘SWITCH CAMS. Center stripp plate to diesTROUBLE. MOLDS open, then close immediately without making shot. CAUSE _____ WHAT To DO. Stripper failed Adjust LS-4 LIMIT to operate. ‘SWITCH, Stripper failed to Adjust LS-5 LIMIT actuate LS-6 LIMIT ‘SWITCH, SWITCH at bottom of stroke. 6.5 Machine Troubles - Hydraulic System TROUBLE _ CAUSE ___ WHAT TO DO - NO SHOT LS-5 LIMIT SWITCH Adjust or replace not actuated. LS-5 LIMIT SWITCH. Discharge solenoid Replace or repair detective SOL 1 SHOT SLOWS Nitrogen charge With bottle empty noticeably during pressure in of oil, charge with stroke. accumulator too nitrogen to high or low. 1000-1100 PSI. ‘SLOW PARISON drop time (greater than 2 seconds) HYDRAULIC PUMP noisy, HYDRAULIC PUMP. pressure fluctuating, Fuptured nitrogen Replace bladder, bladder in accumulator. Pump pressure ‘Sat pressure at too low. 1500 PSI Manitrol vaive ‘Open manitrol valve closed. Manifold chokes "Open manifold chokes closed. _ and rebalance. ‘Shot cylinder Repair piston rings. piston rings worn. Cavitation Clean or replace suction filter. ‘Change oil ‘Add oil - Repair or replace pump seals. Worn pump seals. Worn pump. ~ Repair or replace pump. Worn pump Repair or replace pump. Compensator Repair or replace malfunctioning. compensator. Clogged filter Clean or replace filter. 42TROUBLE HYDRAULIC valves ‘not shitting, CAUSE Solenoid burned out; valve spool sticking Valve spool sticking or main WHAT TO DO Shift solenoid by hand; if valve operates, replace solenoid. Repair or replace valve, pool sticking. 66 Bottle Troubles - Parison Formation TROUBLE PARISON sag PARISON hooking HOLES IN PARISONS and bottles. STRINGING or DROOLING. DIE LINES. CAUSE Mott temperature too high. Drop time too tong. Mold closing too slowly. _WHAT TO DO Decrease melt Reduce drop time. increase low pressure close; lubricate tie bar brushings. Die gap out of adjustment Air flowing on parison. Warped die or mandrel. Adjusting ring 01 of adjustment, Die temperature ‘not uniform. Contamination, or moisture. Degraded material High fill pressure. High melt temperature. Damaged die or mandrel. Contamination in die gap. Degraded resin on die or mandrel 43 ‘Adjust die around mandrel. ‘Shield parisons from moving ai ~ Replace damaged component. Recenter th adjusting rin _ Check for stripper Plate contact. Check resin quality, for foreign matter in material Disassemble and clean the head, Reduce fil pressure Until weeping stops: Approx 150 PSI - 4-HEAD 200 P: Decrease met temperature, Replace damaged components, — ‘Open die gap and purge Disassemble and clean the toolingTROUBLE All TAIL LENGTHS change longer or shorter, CAUSE WHATTODO Timer(s) Replace defective maifunction timer(s) resulting in a cycle time variation, - Insutticient back Increase fil pressure. pressure (fl Replace fil pressure pressure) or regulator. erratic operation of the regulator. Virgin regrind Insure complete stratification mixing of virgin in the hopper. and regrind. Partially bridged ~ Introduce handle or collared screw. slugs into feed throat of machine _ while running, CS-1 LIMIT SWITCH Reset LIMIT SWITCH. too far back which results in a cushion in front of the screw. The thrust bearing should be within" of the gear reducer when on automatic cycle. Malfunctioning Replace temperature barrel temperature controller(s) controllers or Repair barrel barrel cooling coolant system systems, Wom barrel andor -—=*«SReplixc ithe screw. barrel or screw. V-belts slipping Tighten V-belts from drive motor to gear reducer. Excessive screw Contact machinery speed and/or manufacturer. improper screw desig Hydraulic system maifunction: Accumulator Check accumulator, nitrogen pressure 100 high or t00 low. ~System pressure Repair or oplaco — relief valve. __teliet valve TWanitol vive Clean manitol valve. Moid close Rotac. Check seals in Rotac oF grease te bars ‘Any of the 4-way Clean. Ives (sluggish operation). way valves. 44TROUBLE CAUSE WHATTODO __ Maifunctioning eddy Contact machine current clutch resulting in manfacturer. Repair or replace resulting in a thrust bearing, screw speed variation - Extruder drive AC Repair or replace motor malfunction AC motor. resulting in a screw speed variation. Gear reducer, ball lepair or replace spline damaged gear reducer, resulting in a screw ball spline. speed variation. incoming fine Contact focal voltage fluctuation, ‘power company, A mixture of Isolate to one type dissimilar materials of material only. TAIL LENGTHS Manifold chokes Adjust manifold chokes, uneven. out of adjustment, make shot tails longer fi Bottle weights not ‘Adjust botle weights ~ uniform. to + 1 gmof target pete lott Nonuniform head heats Check heaters Head chokes out of Reset head chokes. adjustment MELT FRACTURE Melt flow is unstable, Increase or decrease (sharkskin). stock temperature; increase or decrease drop time; check to * insure that the head choke and manifold chokes are open as much as possible; clean the tooling AIR BUBBLES. Moisture in Raise Feed Zone material temperature to 358° F; Cow fil pressure CCUFFING parison. Tooling mismatch Set proper bottle weight for tooling design; recut die for 0.015’ mandrel extension below die face. 45TRovBLE CAUSE WHAT TO DO _ Temperature Check head differential on temperature setting tooling. and heater band function; shut off - ___Die Variaes. Degraded material Clean ae face on die face. Mert temperature Reduce or increase too hot or cold. melt temperature. Fill pressure too high or too low. ‘Adjust fil pressure. BOTTLE WEIGHT Material or tooling Reduce stock t00 high or too low. too hot. temperature; reduce head temperature. ‘Rupturing’ biow Check blow pin and ait, shear steel. Stripper not ‘Adjust stripper adjusted properly. plate. Biow pins set too Raise or lower low oF too high. blow pins. BOTTLE WEIGHT Mandrel down or up Turn mandrel adjusting to0 high or too low too far. nut clockwise to decrease oF counterclockwise to increase bottie weight, ‘making sure the mandrel does not turn. BOTTLE STICKING Parison hooking, Adjust parison drop. in mold. —— ‘Swinging arm out Adjust swinging arm. of adjustment, Molds not opening "Adjust mold open stop far enough. LS-7 LIMIT SWITCH. Stripper plate timing. ‘Adjust LS-4 LIMIT SWITCH and/or pneumatic fiow control valves. Tail too short. ‘Adjust screw rpm higher or increase 4TD BLOW TIMER. Blow pin in manual Switch to auto mode, (down) postion. ee - Molds too hot heck mold cooling insufficient Increase exhaust exhaust time. time. Lower HANDLE WEBS, Low flare. Lower stock missed handles only. temperature; increase _shot pressure. 46Excessive EXHAUST TIME. _caU! Mold position, “Hooking parison, Air channels plugged in exhaust system, Blow air pressure ___and realign "Lower blow air Adjust parison drop. (See PRE-BLOW section) Open air channets in exhaust system. pressure. Replace timer Repair vaive, air valve. SERIE eee 6.7 Machine Troubles - During Molding TROUBLE BOTTOM OR VOLUME CONTROL INSERT inverted (blown out) POOR WELD or hole at pinchotf area INCOMPLETE BLOWING of the bottle, BOTTLE TOO HOT. CAUSE Insufficient exhaust time, Bottle weight too low. Pinchott too sharp, Molds too hot. ‘Stock temperature {00 gh Excessive PRE-BLOW. Molds closing t00 fast. High pressure air coming on too soon Blow air restricted, Hole in parison (contamination) Pinchoff too sharp. Incomplete venting Mold temperature Blow air pressure 100 low. Cyele time too shor. incomplete venting Melt temperature too high. 47 _WHATTO DO increase exhaust time, Increase boitie weight. Roll pinchott slightly increase maid cooling or cycle time. Reduce stock temperature. Reduce PRE-BLOW pressure or timing Slow down mold closing speed. Delay t ov Check blow air system Drop mandrel and purge; check regrind quality. Roll pinchot sighly. Repair ven Reduce mold temporal “Increase Blow alr pressure (to 80 PSI minimum), Increase eycie time. Repair vent. Decrease melt temperature:6.8 Machine Troubles - After Molding TROUBLE CAUSE TRIMMING problems. Incorrect bottle weights. Hooking parison. Mold damage. Mold alignment SOS (mismatch), ‘Wor pinchoits. Tie bar adjusiments Mold shimming Flash too hot. WHAT TO DO Reset bottle weights. Straighten parison drop Repair mold. _ Replace guide pins land bushings. Rebuild mold, Adjust tie bars. Shim mold. Reduce mold temperature Rotac seals leaking. Rotac high pressure to0 low. Trimmer conveyor bucket bent. _ Increase to 1000 PSI Rebuild or replace rotac. maximum, Straighten bucket. Trimmer to conveyor bucket indexing off Trimmer damaged. ‘Adjust drive chain Repait immer Blow pin alignment. Shear steel damage. check for mold mismatch, High Tare material Plugged dowel pin holes. Pluggedvents. Obstruction in mold Molds too hot. Gycle too short Toggle linkage pins worn, Worn or damaged blow pin or shear steel Biow pin alignment. Mold alignment SS (mismatch) Blow pin and shear steel dimensions wrong Neck plate — dimensions wrong, Cap dimensions wrong, CAP LEAKAGE. Trimmer damage due to difficult flash removal Vertical web inside neck (pleating) 48 ‘Align blow pins or replace blow pin. Replace shear steel; Increase drop time, increase stock temperature, recheck PRE-BLOW. Clean dowel pin holes. Clean vents. Remove obstruction. Decrease mold temperature. increase BLOW TIME. Replace linkage pins Replace blow pin and/or shear steel ‘Align biow pin. Replace guide pins and bushings Replace with correct size blow pin and steel Replace neck plates. Change te new lot of caps or call cap manufacturer. See (trimming problems). Adjust PRE-BLOW _systemTROUBLE _ BOTTLE WARPAGE. BOTTLE VOLUME to9 high. BOTTLE VOLUME 100 low. PARISON tail sticking in bottle bottom. __cause Capper tongue 100 high or too low. Insufficient cooling time. Molds too hot. Bottle weight to0 low. Molds too cold ~ Cycle 100 tong, _ Mold volume wrong Volume reducing inserts not used. Blow air pressure too high, Bottle storage area too cold. Bottle weight too high, Maid too hot Cycle time too shor Mold volume incorrect. Volume reducing inserts used (packed off bottle only). Biow air pressure too low. WHAT TO DO Adjust capper tongue. Increase 4TD BLOW TIME. Reduce mold temperature. Increase bottle weight. Increase moid temperature Reduce cycle time. Resize molds. Install inserts. Reduce biow air pressure. Increase storage area temperature ‘or dwell time. Reduce bottle weight. Reduce mold temperature, Inorease cycle time. Resize mold, Remove inserts for packed bottles only. Increase blow air pressure, Bottle storage areas eS Melt temperature too high, Tail too long, Mold pinchoff too sharp, Mold closing to5 light at bottom. ‘Swinging arm out of adjustment Insufficient cooling 49 temperature or dwell time. Reduce melt temperature. It all tails are long - reduce screw speed - reduce 47D BLOW TIME. {one tail is long - check bottle weight - adjust manifold choke. Reduce clamp force. ‘Adjust te bars or remove shims, ‘Adjust swinging arms higher. ‘Add air Blowing up trom below the cooling bedTROUBLE ____cAUSE_ WHAT TO DO COLD SPOTS or Met too cold increase melt marbleizing. __ temperature. Cycle too fast. Increase blow time ty. insufficient back pressure Increase fil pressure (fil back pressure). INDENTED PARTING Blow air pressure Increase blow air LINE. too low. pressure, Air entrapment. Improve (clean) mold venting. Poor BOTTLE SURFACE Moisture on molds. Aircondition or (orange peel) dehumidify blow mold 100m; dry inside of molds; increase mold temperature. Low bow pressure increase Blow pressure. Weltfemperature. Increase melt too low. temperature. Mold finish. ~ Mold surface may be too _ __rough oF too smooth, insufficient venting Clean vents wit (r plugged vents. solvent 50SECTION VII GLOSSARY OF TERMS Accumulator Head ‘The purpose of this "reservoir" is to store plastic melt. tis a cylinder which contains a plunger. When the cylindor is filled with plastic mel, the plunger pushes at a fast speed forcing the mett through the die to form the parison. Adiabatic A term used to describe a process in which heat neither escapes nor is added into a system. In extrusion, it means no neat is added to maintain the molten stock temperature. Average Molecular Weight Plastics (polymers) are long, chain-like structures, The number of units which comprise an individ- val chain varies from chain to chain, Average mo- lecular weight indicates chain length of the most typical chain in a given plastic; its neither the longest chain nor the shortest Backing Plate In injection molding equipment, a heavy steel plate that is used as a support for the cavity blocks, guide pins, bushings, etc. In blow mold- ing equipment, itis the stee! piate on which the cavities (i., the bottle molds) are mounted. Back Pressure (Fill Pressure) Hydraulic pressure exerted on the rearward mo- tion of the screw while accumulating a charge Ball Spline Contained within the hollow shatt of the reducer drive. Its function is to transmit the drive torque to the rotating and reciprocating screw and to re- duce the drag created by reciprocating the screw. Barrel Cooling This assembly includes all the necessary equip: ment to dissipate excess heat from the heater bands and barrel Blow Molding A fabricating technique in which a hollow tube (parison) is clamped in the mold and then blown by air to the interior shape of the mold Blow Pin ‘A device which injects air into the parison to ef- fect the blowing of the bottle. It may also func- tion as a neck finishing device Blow Pressure ‘The air pressure requited to form the parison into the shape of the mold cavity, in a blow mold ing operation, st Blow Up Ratio In blow molding, the ratio of the diameter of the container (usually its greatest diameter) divided by the diameter of the parison from which the ‘container is formed Bridging A partial blockage between fights caused by ‘material stuck to the screw. Bulk Density The weight of the plastic pellets in a given space. Usually expressed as pounds per cubic foot Burn Line A dark streak of material in @ container result- ing trom decomposed material dislodged from the extruder and incorporated in the material used to blow the container. Capacity (1) The amount of space inside a container pro- vided for a given amount of product. (2) Also, the total amount of volume inside a container. The latter is more correctly called the overflow capacity Cavity In blow molding, the parts of the mold that com- bined provide the container body shape. Charge The volume or weight of material required to load a mold for one complete cycle Choke Avvalve usually located between the extruder and, die which controls the amount of melt flowing a5 well as affects back pressure Choked Neck The opening in the neck of a bottle which has either been obstructed or narrowed Clamping Pressure The pressure that is used to keep the halves of the molds together Clevis Part of toggle mechanism of the clamp. The clevis, bolts to the center or rear platen in which the linkage Is attached Compacting To compress plastic using the blow pin to achieve a heavy walled neck finish Contamination ‘Any visible foreign material in the resin. Converging Tooling Die and mandrel that direct the flow of plastic through channels which are angled inwards,Cooling Channels Channels or passageways located within the body of a mold through which a cooling medium can be circulated to control temperature on the mold surface. Cooling Conveyor An auxiliary system used to transfer containers from the extruder to the trimmer, Copolymer Polymer made from the two starting materials, forexample,exthylene + butene ethylene — butene copolymer Curling A condition in which the parison sticks to the ‘outer face of the die ring due to the parison curl- ing upwards and outwards, Curvature ‘Any bending or “hooking” of the parison when itis being extruded Curtaining The vertical draping or folding caused by extrud- ing a parison which swells, i.e., grows in diame ter as it is extruded. Because of gravitational forces, the parison tends to hang directly be- low the die opening. As the circumference of the parison “swells” or grows, it tends to fold or wrin kle beneath the die. Cycle The complete, repeating sequence of operations in a process or part of a process. In molding, the oycle time is the period of elapsed time be- tween a certain point in one cycle and the same point in the next Deflashing A finishing process which trims the unwanted ‘material from the molded part Density Weight por unit volume. Usually expressed as gramsicubic centimeter, Detabber A trimmer system used in removing tall flash. Die ‘Any tool or arrangement of tools designed to cul, shape or otherwise form materials to a desired configuration Die Gap The distance between the metal faces forming the die opening Die Land ‘A parallel section of the die and mandrel just before the exit of the die head. 52 Die Lines Vertical lines formed on the parison as itis being extruded due to die imperfections or degraded polymer buildup. Die Swell Ratio ‘The ratio of the outer parison diameter (or parison thickness) to the outer diameer of the die (or die gap). Die swell is influenced by polymer type, head construction, land length, extrusion speed and temperature. Diverging Tooling ‘A die and mandrel that direct the the flow of plas tic through channels which are angled outwards, Dome Contained blown flash above the container neck, used primarily with a large spin-off trimmer application. Drooling The extrusion of plastic from the die opening other than during the normal parison drop. Drop Test ‘Any test method in which the article being tested is dropped in a specified manner for a speci- fied number of times or until the article fails from impact. Eccentricity Off-centering of the die with respect to the mandrel. Elasticity In blow molding, a molten polymer characteristic, which relates to swell or "snap-back’ Emboss (-ed), (-ing) Raised design or lettering on the surface of an object. Extrusion The compacting and forcing of plastic through a narrow opening, Fill Point The level to which a container must be filled to furnish a designated quantity of the contents. Fill Pressure (Back Pressure) Hydraulic pressure experted on the rearward mo- tion of the screw while accumulating a charge. Finish The plastic forming the opening of a container shaped to accomodate a specific closute. Also, the ultimate surface of an article.Flame Treating ‘A method of treating plastic objects to make them more receptive to inks, lacquers, paints, adhesives, ete. The part (bottle) is bathed in an open flame to oxidize the surface. Flash Waste material formed when the parison is pinched into a bottle shape in the mold. The flash ‘occurs in the mold pockel areas and is removed when the bottle is trimmed Flash Line A raised line appearing on the surface of a mold ing and formed at a junction of mold faces Gloss The shine or lustre of the surface of a material A surface treatment of a mold in which steel grit or sand materials are biown to the walls of the cavity to produce a roughened surtace. Air escapement from the mold is improved and spe- cial appearances are often obtained by this method. Head The end section of a blow molding machine (in a general extruder) in which the melt is trans- formed into a hollow parison Homopolymer ‘A straight chain of high density polyethylene hav- ing no branches. Hooking The bending of a parison away from vertical Hopper ‘A“bin” which accumulates material prior to its falling into the machine. Hopper Loader ‘A device that transfers material trom silo or gay: loards to machine hoppers. Hydraulic A system which utilizes pressurized fluid flow to transfer energy. Hydraulic Accumulator A device for storing pressurized hydraulic fluids Impact Resistance Relative susceptibility of plastics to fracture by shock, e.g.. as indicated by the energy expanded by a standard pendulum-type machine in break ing a standard specimen in one blow. Land The length of any channel through which molten polymer flows. Frequently, the term means the finishing portion of a die which shapes the plas- tic to form the parison or the “thickness” areas in the pinch-off insert Laytiat (Bottle) The width of the pinched portion of the parison measured perpendicular to the extrusion direction. Layflat Area (Mold) The recessed area of the mold which accommo- dates the flash or excess plastic attached to the bottle, LID Ratio A term used to detine an extrusion screw which denotes the ratio of the screw length to the screw diameter. Label Panel That portion of the body of a container to which labels are affixed or decoration imprinted. Linear Position Transducer Potentiometer which works in conjunction with the sctew position meter in monitoring the plastic accumulation Low Boy Loader ‘See Cooling Conveyor Low Pressure Close All Uniloy® machines are provided with a protec- tive feature which allows the clamp to close at a reduced hydraulic pressure Mandrel ‘An inner part of the head tooling that forms the parison. Manifold ‘Atterm used mainly with reference to blow mold- ing and sometimes with injection molding equip- ment, It refers to the distribution or piping sys- tem which takes the single channel flow output of the extruder or injection cylinder and divides it to feed several blow molding heads or injec- tion nozzles. Masterbatch Usually concentrated color in a plastic. It is added to the plastic in the hopper to obtain the de- sited color of the molten plastic container. Material Distribution A term which describes the variation in thick- ‘ness of various parts of the container, ie., body, wall, shoulder, heel, base, etc. Material distribu: tion is controlled by parison programming, tem- perature of the melted plastic, bottle geometry, blow-up ratio, ete.Melt Fracture ‘An instabilty in the mett flow through a die, start: ing at the entry to the die. It leads to surface irregularities on the finished article like a regu lar helix or irregularly-spaced ripples. Melt Index The amount, in grams, of a thermoplastic resin which can be forced through a 0.825-inch ori- fice in ten minutes at 190°C., when subjected to 2160 gms. force. Melt Strength The strength of a plastic in its molten state. Melt Temperature ‘The tomperature of the plastic in its molten state (Stock Temp.) Metering Screw ‘An extrusion screw which has a shallow con- stant depth, and constant pitch section over, usually, the last 3 to 4 flight. Minimum Wall A term that designates the thickness of the wall (body) of a container. Usually specified as the minimum thickness allowable for the body of a container. Mold (1) To shape plastic parts or finished articles by heat and pressure. (2) The cavity or matiix into which the plastic composition is placed and {from which it takes form. (3) The assembly of all the parts that function collectively in the mold- ing process. Mold Number The number assigned to each mold or set of molds for identification purposes. The number is usually placed in that part of the container mold that forms the base of the container. Mold Seam ‘A vertical ine formed at the point of contact of the mold halves. The prominence of the line de- pends on the accuracy with which the mating mold halves are matched, See Parting Line Mold Shrinkage The difference in size of the molded part versus the mold cavity Molecular Weight Distribution The magnitude of differences in sizes of chains in a material. Multiple Head Machine ‘Any blow molding machine having two or more heads 54 Neck “Tho part of a container where the bottle cross- section decreases to form the finish, See also Neck Finish Off Center A condition in which the mandrel is not cen: tered within the die ring, Orifice ‘The area formed between the die and the mandrel Out-of-Round A round plastic container which when molded, does not remain round Over Fill To accumulate plastic beyond the extruder limits, Parison The plastic tube formed by ejecting plastic through the die orifice. Parison Programmer ‘An electronic feedback servo system which con- trols the die gap opening throughout the parison drop, thus varying the wall thickness precisely as needed to match the mold shape Parison Swell The ratio of the diameter of the parison to the diameter of the die opening Parting Line Mark on a molding or casting where halves of mold met in closing Pinch-off A raised edged, around the cavity in the mold which seals off the part and separates the ex: cess material as the mold closes around the parison in the blow molding operation Pinch-Off Tail The bottom of the parison that is pinched off when the mold closes, Pinhole ‘A very small hole in a plastic container, film, etc. Pinch-Off Land The width of the pinch-off edge. Pinch-Off Tall (Tab) The tab or bottom of the parison resulting from the mold closing, pinching off the parison: Plastic A generic term to describe a family of mater als that can be formed into shapes by flowing Thermoplastics are repealably molded by melting, flowing and cooling,Plastic Accumulator ‘The purpose of this “reservoir” is to store plastic rmett. It is a cylinder which contains a plunger. When the cylinder is filled with plastic melt, the plunger pushes at a fast speed forcing the melt through the die to form the parison. Used primar. ily on large industrial machines, Plasticity The characteristic of being able to be shaped by plastic flow. Plasticize Making a solid moidable. Piatens ‘The mounting plates of a press on which the com- plete mold assembly is fastened. Platen Shoes Brass wear blocks which the platens smoothly ride on, Pleating or Curtaining Vertical folds or wrinkles in the parison. Polyethylene A thermoplastic material composed of polymers or ethylene. tt is normally a translucent, tough, waxy solid which is unaffected by water and by a large range of chemicals. Polymer A high-molecular-weight organic compound, nat- Ural or synthetic, whose structure can be repre- sented by a repeated small unit, the mer, e.g. polyethylene, rubber, cellulose. Synthetic poly- mers are formed by addition or condensation polymerization of monomers. If two or more mo- omers are involved, a copolymer is obtained. Some polymers are elastomers, some plastics. Pre-Blow The introduction of air, into the parison, through the mandrel or blow pin, prior to the molds lock- ing closed Pre-Finish ‘A method used in finishing the sealing surface ‘of the container in the mold, Pull-Up Type of pre-finish used exclusively with center fill containers with an internal lip and calibrated 10 (inside diameter) determined by the blow pin size, Purging The procedure by which a material is cleaned out of an extruder by forcing it out with the new ma- terial used. 55 Push-Up The contour of the bottom of a plastic container designed in such a manner as to allow an even bearing surface on the outside edge and to pre- vent the bottle from rocking Ram Down ‘Type of pre-finish used only on containers whose finishes do not require internal lips or grooves. The main purpose of this type of finish is to pro duce a heavy walled neck finish Reciprocating Screw This type of screw rotates and is pushed back- wards as molten plastic accumulates in front of the screw. When the proper amount of mo! ten plastic is obtained in front of the screw, the screw moves forward rapidly, thus forcing the plastic through the head and die forming the parison. Recessed Panel A container design in which the flat area for la beling is indented or recessed Regrind This term refers to material being fed back into the biow molder. It consists of ground up trim: mings from the container flash which is mixed with virgin material and reused Resin ‘Any of a class of solid or semi-solid organic prod- ucts of natural or synthetic origin, generally of high molecular weight with no definite melting point. Most resins are polymers Rocker A plastic container with a bulged or deformed bottom, causing rocking of the container in the upright position. Rotac Hydraulic rotary actuator used to open and close the clamp and also to raise and lower swinging arms, Sag A thinning of the upper position of the parison due to the weight of the parison Scrap The parts of a molded piece which were not in- tended to be part of the molded product. Sealing Surface ‘The surface of the finish of the container on which the closure forms the seal. Shear Rate ‘The velocity of flow of a molten plastic.Shear Stee! Part of the neck ring assembly that when com- bined with the blow pin body forms ID (inside diameter) of the fill hole of the container. Shot ‘The total amount of material extruded during one complete molding cycle. ‘Shot Capacity The total weight of plastic that an accumulator can push out with one forward stroke when it is running at maximum force. Shrinkage The amount a container contracts after it has been cooled. ‘Snap Back The phenomenon of plastic memory in attempt- ing to return to its previous shape. Specific Gravity The density of plastic or any other material di vided by the density of water. The density of wa- ter is approximately 1.00g/cc, thus density and specific gravity are mathematically nearly equal Spin Off A trimmer system used primarily to remove blown flash above the container neck: Split Tie Bar Nut Clamp lock up adjustment nut which is threaded onto the tie bar. The nut is split for locking purposes. ‘Stock Temperature The temperature of the plastic in its molten state, (Melt Temperature) Stress Crack Cracks or breaks on a container caused by stresses, The stresses may be either molded into the container or applied to the container inter- nally or externally. The amount of time required to stress crack a given container depends on the amount of stress and the environment {what- ever is sourrounding or inside the container: ai, water, milk, bleach, detergent, etc.) Stripper Plate ‘The plate that pushes the blow containers away from the blow pin and die face. Surging ‘An uneven flow of melted material through the extruder ‘Sweating The condensation of water vapor on the inside of the mold cavity 56 Tab The trim protruding below the base of the bottle. See Tall Tail Flash formed in the flash pocket at the bottom of the bottle. The tail is removed during the trim ming operation. Thermoplastic (1) Capable of being repeatedly softened by heat and hardened by cooling. (2) A material that will repeatedly soften when heated and harden when cooled. Typical of the thermoplastics fam- ily are the styrene polymers and copolymers, acrylics, cellulosics, polyethylenes, vinyls, nylons, and the various fluocarbon materials. Thrust Bearing Located between the reducer drive and the shot cylinder. I's function is to allow the screw to rotate and reciprocate without rotating the shot oylinder. Tie Bars Steel bars that hold and guide the platens to- gether smoothly, Toggle Link Part of the clamp mechanism connecting the levis to the rotac adapter, Toggle Pin Part of the clamp mechanism which holds the clovis to its linkage. Tooling Another name for dies and mandrels, Top Load The amount of weight bearing on the top of a container. The term is sometimes used to indi cate the maximum load the container will bear without becoming distorted U'Con Fluid A heat transter coolant used in the barrel cool ing system, Underbiown Container. An impertect container caused by insufficient alr pressure or loss of pressure within the mold Upper Handle Web ‘A web of plastic (chevron stripes) within the hollow upper interior of the handle caused by pleating. Variac ‘An instrument used to vary the amount of volt- age to a heater or other piece of electrical equipmentVent In a mold, a shallow channel or minute hole cut in the cavity to allow air to escape as the mate- rial enters, Virgin Resin Unprocessed plastic, as obtained from the resin supplier. Viscosity ‘The frictional forces in a fluid that resist flow. High viscosity means slow flow. Low viscosity means fast flow. Weld Lines ‘A narrow line on a container caused by the fu- sion of two streams of plastic. 87DAILY MAINTENANCE SCHEOULE MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST DATE SUN. MON. TUES. WED. THUR. FRI. SAT 1, Automatic Lubricator “Check and Refill as Required| 2. ‘Stripper Speed Control Check and Adjust as Needed ‘3. Stripper Guide Rods Oil with No Drip Oil 4, Safety Door Cam Valves _~Check for Proper Operation 5, Clamp Tie Bar Bushings —Grease - 6. Clamp Platen Shoes Grease 5 7. Clamp Toggle Pins Grease 8 Temperature Controllers ~Gheck 9%. Gear Reducer Temperature*-Check and Adjust as Needed 120°F-140 F Optimum| 10. Clutch Cooling Temperature*—Check and Adjust as Needed 90°F Optimum 11. Hydraulic Temperature” —Check and Adjust as Needed 110 F-120:F Optimum 12. Barrel Cooling Temperature” ~Check and Adjust as Needed 150°F-200°F Optimum| 13. Air Lubricator —SAE 10 Oil as Needed 14. Thrust Bearing Shoes ‘Grease WEEKLY MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE 1. Barrel Cooling Fluid Level —Check and Add Heal Transfer Fluid to Level Mark. Fill at Running Temperature 2. Reducer Gear Oil Level ‘Add SAE 50 Gear Lube to Bring Up to Level ‘3. Ball Spline Lubrication Four or Five Shots with Lithium Grease 4. Thrust Bearing Lubrication “Two or Three Shots with Lithium Grease 5. Drive Belt Tension “Adjust Tension to Deflect no more than %e" Inch 6. Clutch Coolant Level Does not Apply to 250R1 “Add Antitreeze-Water Mix to Maintain 0'F-10 F. Use Automotive Hydrometer 7. Hydraulic Fluid ~Check and Fill as Needed with ‘SAE 20 or Equivalent 8. Trimmer Lubrication ~Grease and Check Gear Lube Fill to Top of Sight Glass 9. Cooling Conveyor “Grease Live Roller End Caps Check Gear Box Fluid Level MONTHLY MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE 1 1. Air Filters, ~Clean or Replace Filter Cartridges "Adjust temperature only If the machine Is running and has been running for at least one hour. 58MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST QUARTERLY (3 MONTHS) MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. DATE _ 7. Thrusi Bearing Repacking __-Remove, Clean and Repack 7 Full with Lithium Grease 2. Hydraulic Ol Reservoir Drain, Clean and Refill with SAE 20 oF Equivalent with Additives ‘3, Reducer Gear Box Drain, Flush and Refill with SAE 60 Gear Lube YEARLY MAINTENANCE SCHEOULE 1. Temperature Controllers “Recalibrate and Check for Wear by Qualified Technician 2. Barrel Cooling Drain, Clean and Refill with Heat Transfer Fluid 59