Pet German Shorthaired Pointer

PET GERMAN
Shorthaired
POINTER
Richard S. Johns
Pet German Short haired Pointer
Pet German
Shorthaired Pointer
By
Richard S. Johns
Your Shorthair's Health
By
J. F. Jones, V.M.D.
All-Pets Books, Inc.
Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
1956
Copyright 1956
All-Pets Books, Inc.
Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
First Edition, January, 1956
Second Printing, November, 1956
Library of Congress
Catalog Card Number 56-7804
Printed in U.S.A.
Table of Contents
Character 7
History 11
Exercise and Environment 14
The New Puppy in the Home 18
Grooming 23
Training the Shorthair 25
Showing the Shorthair 39
Your Shorthair's Health 41
Breeding the Shorthair 47
Care of Mother and Family 49
The Spaying Question 54
Care of the Aging Shorthair 56
The German Shorthair Standard 59

Cover Design By
Hubert Allcock
Cover Drawing by
Gladys Emerson Cook
Text Illustrations by
Louise Lurba
Chapter One
Character
The German shorthaired pointer's rise to its present popularity

in this country has been slow, gradual, and without the stimulus
of a wide scale breed promotional program. There now can be little
question but that he has, on his own merits, earned his rightful
place in the sphere of our most popular gun dog breeds. The breed's
cornerstone has been set on solid ground, and the shorthair is here
to stay.
The German shorthair is characterized by a strong desire to
please in all the things he does, and this single factor accounts for
his closeapproach to the perfect all-around gun dog and household
companion. When properly educated, he can efficiently carry out
the duties of a pointer and retriever of both fur and feathered game
from land or water. He has the ability to double as a child's com-
panion or as the family watchdog.
The German shorthair's efficiency has not been confined to any
one species of game bird. (Within the comparatively brief period
of the past twenty-five years, his popularity has spread through-
out this entire nation.) In the South, he can be found doing an
who prefers to do his shooting
excellent job for the quail hunter
afoot. In theheavy game coverts of the northeast, shorthairs are
proving their worth on the canny ruffed grouse, woodcock and
even wild turkey. He has long been popular in the middle and far
west as a pheasant, sharp tail grouse and prairie chicken dog, and,
just for good measure, a well-trained shorthair is proving himself
to be a skillful water retriever.
8 Pet German Shorthaired Pointer
German founders of the breed have, from the very beginning,
insisted that the shorthair must be the answer to the one-dog
sportsman. German field trials consist of complicated tests for
both land and water work that demand intelligence, fortitude and
great versatility.
An important reason for shorthair popularity has been his early
development in the field as compared with many of our other
pointing breeds. It has long been recognized that the breed is
endowed with a strong pointing instinct which often comes to the
fore when the puppies are six to nine months of age, and, not in-
frequently, puppies in that age bracket furnish some very enjoyable
shooting days for their owners.
The breed as a whole possesses very great scenting ability. This
fact has been ascertained by authorities of other sporting breeds.
On wounded game, the shorthair knows no peer. As surely as his
keen nose can pick the body scent of game from the air, he can
put his head down and track rapidly moving crippled fur or feather
and bring it back to hand. In Europe, the shorthair is often called
upon to run down wounded large game animals, and some dogs
there will stand and bay over the carcass until the huntsman
claims his prize.
Short hairs have been developed for the man who hunts on foot.
His hunting range is closer than that of the English pointer or
setter, and he is far more inclined to take directions from his
handler than is the case with some of our other gun dog breeds.
This factor is most important in this age of restricted gunning
areas which often are near our ever increasing and dangerous
highways that can only mean sure death to the wider ranging and
less-subservient dog.
The short hair's tract ability has gained him many supporters
from the ranks of men who have wearied of attempts to train or
handle some of our stronger-headed gun dog breeds. It is a fact
that any one possessed of patience, ambition and a reasonable
amount of know-how can develop a shorthair into a useful gunning
companion if the dog has been exposed to sufficient game giving
Character 9
him the necessary experience to round out as a proficient field

performer.
Some of the gun dog breeds have a definite aversion to water or
even to soaking field conditions, but this is not true with most
shorthairs. When properly educated in water work, he takes to it
with the same enthusiasm and efficiency as do the retrieving breeds.

In Germany, water retrieving has always played a major part in
field trials and now
becoming increasingly popular for shorthairs
is
in this country. The makes for speedy

shorthair*s close, tight coat
drying when he comes out of the water and frees him of the burden
of the heavy, wet coat that can prove tiresome to the longer and
denser-coated breeds through the duration of a long hunt on wet
days. Given the opportunity, the shorthair can prove himself a
strong, determinedswimmer and one that will fully answer the
needs of the person who likes to fill his bag with waterfowl.
As a household companion, the shorthair has many merits. His
disposition and his high degree of intelligence enable him to be a
true family pet for he tends to disperse his affection throughout the
household rather than reserve it all for one person. He is usually
devoted to children and has great patience for their pranks.
To visitors, the shorthair displays a reserved friend iness.

!
He
would rather make the advances than have the stranger gush all
over him upon the first meeting.

Many an unwanted night intruder has found himself faced with a
strong and agile foe in the shorthair. for it tak.es but little or no
training to make him a real guard dog.
The dog's short, tight coat is a virtue appreciated by the lady of
the household for it does not shed readily. The puppies are quite
easy to housebreak.
The German shorthaired pointer's physical characteristics im-
press one as being those of an honest and energetic workman, for
he is of medium height and weight, powerful yet agile. He is of
denser bone, generally, than is the English pointer. The males
usually run from twenty-three to twenty-six inches in height and
weigh from forty-five to seventy pounds. The females usually
stand from twenty-one to twenty-four inches and tip the scales
from forty-five to sixty pounds. So, it can be said that the shorthair
is largeenough for any work required of him and yet not so big as
to be cumbersome in modern homes or automobiles.
Unlike our English pointers, the shorthair 's tail is docked to
approximately one third its normal length. This creates a trim
appearance, prevents injury in being caught going in or out of
doors of cars or homes, and prevents the bloody sores that usually
occur when a dog of active tail motion slashes it against trees and
bushes during a day's hunt.
Shorthair coloration is quite varied and ranges from the solid
liver, liver and roan, to and white. Any combination of liver
liver
and white is acceptable. Generally speaking, the liver-marked
head is predominate. Black or tan markings are highly undesirable.
Chapter Two
History
Records show us that German short-

in the year 1872, the first
haired pointer was registered in German Kennel Club Stud Books.
However, we do know that the breed was in existence a number of
years prior to that date, but exactly how long is difficult to as-
certain. The exact origin of the dog as we know him today is
equally uncertain, but we can safely describe him as being a product
of various crosses between the old Spanish pointer, the German
(not English) type of bloodhound, and from time to time, infusions
of English and Black pointers. The exact number of crosses and
recrosses of Spanish pointer, hound, English and Black pointer
cannot possibly be determined, for all of this has been hidden
within the shroud of obscurity.
known that German huntsmen became quite disatisfied with
It is
the scenting ability of the old German pointer and turned to hound
crosses to improve the nose. Early photographs show the shorthair
as still possessing much of this "houndy" appearance. Later,
greater speed, nose and more physical attractiveness were de-
manded, and some of the breeders turned to good English pointers.
The influence of that cross can be noted in later photographs, for
the shorthair then began to take on more of the trim, pointerlike
figure he has today. Itmust be noted, however, that nose improve-
ment, the willingness to trail and retrieve wounded or dead game
and efficiency for water work paralleled any physical changes that
came about in the short hair's evolution.
About the turn of this century, or a little before, German
breeders had arrived near the goal that had been set many years
11
before; they now had clinched upon the type they had been striv-
ing and their product was a handsome and extremely useful
for,
dog. They had formulated standards of physical perfection and

practical field trial tests were well established. The Teutonic mind
has never been easily satisfied, and as their dog's efficiency im-
proved, their standards for perfection were lifted accordingly.
With efficiency, also has come increasingly greater physical beauty
which, in turn, better equipped their shorthair for the job required.
Soon after German breeders had attained their goal, sportsmen
of other European nations became interested, and the shorthair
became popular in most of those countries with the exception of
England. So-called annual World Shows were organized where
the top winning short hairs of most European countries met to vie
for the title of World Sieger.
The year 1925 marked the first shorthair importation of note
into this country when Dr. Charles Thorton, of Missoula, Mon-
tana, imported a female from Austria. He subsequently imported
more to found the first breeding establishment for shorthairs in
the United States. However, several pieces of evidence are present
to affirm the belief that Dr. Thorton's Senta v. Hohenbruch was
not the first German shorthair to land on American
soil. It is an
established fact that one was known to have been

South Dakota
in
prior to that date. This author has in his possession an old, but
very clear and distinct, photograph of two children and a rather
large but very handsome German shorthair. Establishing the date
by the must have been taken be-
children's clothing, the picture
tween 1880 and 1890. On the reverse side of the photograph is a
studio stamp of the photographer's name and the city of Albany,
New York. Many German families migrated and settled along the
Hudson River, and it is quite possible that this shorthair came
over with one of these families or had been brought back to the
Albany district by a German visiting the fatherland. At any rate,
we know of at least two earlier shorthairs, but to Dr. Thorton must
go the credit for being the first recognized importer and breeder
of the German shorthair in America.
History 13
A.K.C. recognition first came to the shorthair breed in March,

1930, when Greif v. d. Fliegerhalde was enrolled.
Shorthair growth for the seventeen years that followed official
recognition was slow and at the close of 1947, there was a grand
total of 4,628 registered with the A.K.C. It was not until the years
following World War II that the German shorthaired pointer
gained strong forward momentum. This fact is attested by the
registration increasefrom the year 1948 to June of 1955 which
shows a total A.K.C. registration of 15,586. This is quite a pro-
nounced gain over the pre-war period and all indications point to a
bright future for the German shorthaired pointer in America.
Chapter Three
Exercise and Environment
The prospective purchaser of a German shorthaired pointer

should bear one thing in mind —the shorthair is a sporting dog. He
has been bred to be energetic and naturally will do better in an
environment which can afford an outlet for his active system.
Urban or rural surroundings are far better suited to him than are
the confines of our larger cities which naturally offer him little or
no chance for the exercise he requires. It is quite true that many
short hairs are to be found in our most heavily populated centers,
but one cannot honestly rate him as the best-adapted dog for
apartment living.
There are few people who do not understand the great benefits
derived from exercise and its influence upon the entire body system.
In his respect, our dogs are no different from ourselves, except that
I
their bodies are inclined to deteriorate more rapidly from the lack
of it. Insufficient exercise has a devastating influence on a dog
since fatty tissue soon accumulates under the exterior surface as
well as about the heart and other vital organs of the body; then
digestive disorders soon take over and our pet is ailing.
A shorlhair will provide himself with all the exercise he normally

needs when allowed to run at large about the average urban prop-
erty, for he is naturally active a good portion of his waking hours.
If he is in the company of another dog or with children, his physical
activity will be increased through play and little or no special
attention is required except when the approaching gunning or
field trial season calls for a toughening program to prepare him
for the long day's shooting ahead.
14
Should circumstances demand that the shorthair be confined to

a small kennel yard, chained to his house, or kept indoors, then
special measures must be taken to provide him with his daily stint.
In this case, he should not be asked to romp hard on a full stomach;
allow at least two hours or more to elapse before taking him to his
running grounds. A healthy shorthair, so kept, will spend the
half hour or so allotted him in violent exertion. A good run of this
sort, given daily, will enable him to completely evacuate the bowels
and is quite enough to keep him feeling good. During really hot
weather, it is best to regulate the time so as to avoid the extreme
temperatures since he will be more likely to extend himself in the
cooler hours of I he day.
Special mention should be made here regarding the need of
proper conditioning measures which must be taken before we can
expect our shorthair to hunt hour after hour over rough country.
Extra trips afield should commence at least a month prior to the
opening of the gunning season. It is always wise to start this pro-
gram with several short trips afield, gradually increasing the length
of time spent as the weeks progress. Three or more trips per week
are best; more when possible. This procedure allows any excess
summer's fat to dissipate, gradually hardens the muscular system,
improves Ins wind and toughens his feet. It is often a source of
wonderment how some people expect their sporting dogs to go
right out after nearly a year's idleness and expect them to turn in a
hard day's work when they are laden with fat, soft of muscle and
tender of foot. One would hardly expect a physically active man to
run a mile without preliminary training; therefore, we should not
expect our dogs to do otherwise.
Shorthairs present no special feeding problems and do well on
any one of the leading dog foods. There are, of course, certain
brands they are bound to relish more than others; their owners
will soon be able to determine their choice and make their purchases
accordingly. The dry packaged foods call for the addition of water
or milk, but dogs hate slop and the addition of liquid should be of
such quantity as to bring the food texture to a crumble. Dog food
manufacturers claim it is unnecessary to add meat to their product,
and undoubtedly their claims are well founded, but cooked meat
scraps from the butcher shop are always welcome to any dog's diet,
and the same can be said of table scraps.
The need for fresh, clean water is most important to sound
health.The activity of sporting dogs demands that a clean, fresh
supply be on hand at all times. Deprive your shorthair of an
abundant supply of water and his condition will rapidly fall off,
regardless of the quantity or quality of food intake.
Until recently, dog food manufacturers had difficulty incorporat-
ing sufficient fat in their product, but we now understand this
problem has been solved and the percentage of fat is said to be

up to requirement. However, individual dogs differ in dietary
needs; some may need a higher percentage of fat than do others,
but the watchful owner can best judge this by closely observing his
shorthair's condition. If he is falling off in flesh and his coat has
not the gloss it should have, the fat content should be increased
by a few tablespoons of lard daily. Shorthairs that are kept out-
side in unheated winter quarters need more fat for body warmth
and extra portions should be allotted them.
There is no particular climate more suited to the shorthair than
any other. In tins hemisphere, shorthairs have adjusted themselves
from South America to Alaska. However, the shorthair that is
asked to live out of doors in the northern states must be provided
with warm, damp-free, and draft-tight kennels. .Many excellent
dog houses are being manufactured today, or anyone handy with
tools can easily construct a most suitable outside shelter. Many
owners prefer the type with the windbreak or hall entrance which
keeps the wind from blowing directly into the sleeping quarters.
Furnished with this type of house, an ample supply of fresh straw
bedding (wheat straw is preferable), and a reasonable percentage
of fat in his diet, the shorthair can face the most rigorous of winters
and come through in fine condition. One word of caution here: In
the cold winter climates, do not bring the outside dog in the house
for a number of hours and then turn him back out to his unheated
kennel for the radical temperature changes encountered can be
most harmful. In the north, either make him a house dog or keep
him out of doors.
Chapter Four
The New Puppy in the Home
Selecting the Puppy

Presuming the prospective purchaser has had little or no previous
experience with shorthairs, it would be best for him to solicit the
aid of one more familiar with the breed to help him select a good
sound puppy of the best bloodlines. If that is impossible, the pur-
chaser is on his own, but following a few simple tips, it is not diffi-
cult. First, be sure that the puppies are of parents that hunt and
are physically sound and of good temperament. When looking over
a litter of puppies, say eight weeks old, it is more than likely the
purchaser will have the opportunity to see the dam and to dis-
cover something of her temperament and physical make-up.
Should she be man-shy, beware, for this temperamental defect is
certain to be passed on to some of the puppies. A study of the
puppies' mother may well be an index to the litter.
In looking over the entire litter, be in no hurry; stand back and
watch them at play. If the season and the day permits, ask the
breeder to bring them out in the yard. Select the puppies of medium
size, the ones that evince a good deal of friendly curiosity about the
humans present. Every litter has its bully pup but don't be overly
impressed with his or her antics, for when taken away from the
litter, the lion sometimes becomes a lamb. Select two or three of
the most normal and friendly puppies and ask the breeder to put
the others back in their quarters. The field has now been reduced
to a few for a more complete study. Walk about the yard and watch
18
for the curious puppy that shows a trifle more independence. He

or she will strike from the others to investigate some objects or
ofl'
scents about the yard. Chirp or snap the fingers and see how the
puppy reacts to a strange noise. Settle for the puppy of medium
size, straight legsand medium length of back, one that is bold,
curious, and friendly towards people. Little else can be discerned
about puppies of this age.
The Pup's Arrival

Seldom in a dog's life does he receive so great a shock as when
he is first taken from the security of his mother and the company
of his litter-mates. Naturally, it takes him several days to recover
and to adjust himself to his new circumstances. For the first day
or so he may be quite dejected and he will give vent to his feelings
through a great deal of crying, particularly when left alone or at
night when the household has settled down to sleep. Assuming a
place has been made for him prior to his arrival, he may be placed
therein, fed, and left to become familiar with things about him.
Much of the night crying can be avoided if a warm hot water
bottle is wrapped in a towel and placed in his bed. This acts as a
replacement for the body of his dam. Another old trick is to ac-
company the water bottle with a loudly ticking clock.
If the puppy is to be kept in the house, it would be wise to furnish
a small pen around his box or basket bed. Place newspapers on the
floor under this pen to facilitate cleaning whenever he makes the
frequent mess that goes with all puppies.
Nothing is better for a puppy than the company of children,
and the arrival of a puppy to a house is always a day of great
excitement. The children should be cautioned to let the pup have a
few hours rest and a look around before he is mauled. Then too,
children can be extremely rough in their play with small puppies
and should be instructed in the proper manner of picking the puppy
up or otherwise handling him. They must understand that their
new playmate is just a baby and must, for a time at least, be treated
with tenderness. They should refrain from picking the puppy up
by the nape or front legs. He should be picked up with two hands,
one under his chest and one under his rear quarters.
Feeding the Puppy

It is always advisable to ask the breeder about the food the
puppy had been fed since weaning and to duplicate the diet as
closely as possible. Sudden and radical dietary changes may well
cause a digestive upset. It is a good idea, for a short time, to
purchase feed of the same brand name.
Shorthair puppies, up to three months of age, should be fed
regularly, four times a day —morning, noon, evening and at bed-
time. The diet should consist of the best quality puppy meal
available, soaked in milk, fresh or canned broth of beef, lamb, or
;
chicken. Vegetable table scraps can be added to this. Growing

pups require lots of protein and the best sources are meat, milk,
and eggs. The meat must always be finely chopped or ground for
young puppies as they cannot chew large chunks. In addition to
protein, the growing puppy requires a sufficient amount of vitamins
and minerals, particularly of the bone-manufacturing type. Cod-
liver oil is an excellent source of vitamins. By all means, see to it
that the puppy gets this most necessary vitamin and mineral
supplement.
The individual puppy is amount
the only measuring stick for the
of feed to be given at each meal. Feed nomore than he will readily
clean up. Allow a reasonable amount of time for him to complete
his meal, but never leave uneaten foodstuff about his pen. As the
puppy grows older, he will require fewer feedings, and at about six
months the meals can be reduced to two per day. At a year, the
puppy is now a dog and one meal is ample, given at either morning,
noon, or night.
Puppy Ailments
Probably the most common ailment found in the young pup is
the round worm. Most either have or pick them up, and their
presence is often made known when the puppy passes one or several
in his stool. There are many safe worm medicines available but
follow their directions to the letter and refrain from frequent treat-
ment. If you are in doubt about the puppy having worms, see
your veterinarian. A microscopic examination of the pup's stool
will readily determine the need for medication.
In this day and age there is no excuse for a pup contracting
distemper for there are means to completely protect him from this
scourge. It is imperative that the new owner seek his veterinarian's
advice on this subject as soon after the pup's arrival as is possible.
Another common puppy trouble may be fleas, and he should be
examined frequently for them by brushing the hand against the
lay of the hair and watching for their appearance, Many safe flea
powders or liquids are available. The corner pet shop certainly
should have quite a selection. The dog flea multiplies rapidly and
can be a source of great annoyance, cause skin irritation or infest
him with tapeworm.
House Training
Short hair puppies seldom present much of a housebreaking
problem; all it takes is a little observation and patience. Puppies
always have a bowel and bladder evacuation immediately after
they have eaten. The quickest method of starting the pup out on
the right foot is him out in the section of the yard you
to take
desire him Once there, encourage him to move
to use as "his place."
around in that area and your efforts should soon be rewarded.
Immediately after each subsequent meal, walk him to this same
spot and you will be surprised how quickly he will get the idea.
Puppies that are being played with about the house are bound
to have accidents, but this can be avoided with a little care.
After the puppy has played hard for a short time, he will suddenly
stop in the middle of his game and start sniffing about the rugs or
make circles about the room. This is the moment to usher him
outside to his place in the yard. Following this method, the puppy
should be most mannerly in a surprisingly short time.
It is very unwise to cramp a puppy with too much discipline,
but if he is to live in the house with us, there are certain measures
that must be instituted. He should learn to recognize his name,
come when and to understand the meaning of the word
called,
"no" or "stop." The puppy, at a very early age, will recognize his
call name and all one has to do is use it on every occasion that you
wish to attract his attention. Select a short, quick call name and
always pronounce it in the same manner and in similar tone of
voice. Use it in conjunction with the "come here" command, for
example: "Shot! Come here." Clap your hands or otherwise attract
his attention and he will soon respond. It is best, however, to start
this simple training method in the house so as to have more of his
concentration; the out-of-doors offers too many interesting dis-
tractions at first. After you are certain he understands your mean-
ing, try it yard but let him know you mean business and see
in the
to it come each time you call. Reward him when he
that he does
co-operates with a pat or an occasional tidbit.
The word "no" or "stop" is as readily picked up by the puppy.
Should the puppy decide to chew up the edge of the rug, speak to
him sharply with either the "no" or "stop" command and make
him understand that he is to cease his act then and there. A
gentle tap with a rolled-up newspaper will back up the order should
the puppy resume his destruction but go easy so you do not frighten
him.
A puppy must play and he should be provided with a toy or so
of his own to romp with and to chew upon. Toys would be best
kept in his pen so he can amuse himself in the hours he must spend
alone.
Chapter Five
Grooming
Grooming the shorthair, compared with many of the other

breeds, is indeed a simple matter. First in his favor is a short,
tight coat which remains free of burrs, hair knots or other entangle-
ments. He presents no clipping or trimming problems, nor is his
coat difficult to keep otherwise clean. Ample exercise, good food,
which includes plenty of bacon drippings or pork lard, and an
occasional brushing down to remove dead hair is all the attention
required to show a sleek, well-kept look. Probably the very best
tool for the shorthair's coat is a hound glove or brush. It is a
mitten arrangement, the palm of which is a short and rather stiff
brush. These can be purchased through any pet shop.
As a rule, the shorlhair keeps his own toenails worn down
through his activity, and little attention is required here. Should
it be necessary to cut his nails, be most careful not to injure the
quick, otherwise, when the next toenail cutting arises, he will be
anything but co-operative. It is best to file the nail back if one is
not too experienced. Special nail clippers are available at pet shops.
During the early fall months, especially after workouts in the
field, the shorthair's eyes must be safeguarded against weed seeds
or other foreign materials which find their way into the eye. You
should wash the eyes with a mild boric acid solution immediately
upon returning from a trip afield. After caring for the eyes, the
dog's feet should be thoroughly examined for cuts of the pads or
lodged thorns.
The grooming period is a good time to examine the inside of the
23
shorthair's ears. Dirt and accumulated wax can be easily removed
from the outer ear (the section visible when the flap is raised) with
cotton dampened in ether or alcohol, but under no circumstances
should the inner ear be entered. If the shorthair has been used for
water work, there is always a chance of some ear trouble. Should he
persistently cock his head to one side with a shaking motion, take
him to your veterinarian and let skilled hands give the necessary
inner ear attention.
Chapter Six
Training the Short hair
In Europe, the training of a shorthair is, by far, a more compli-

cated undertaking than is the case here in America. There are
several reasons for this. Over there, great stress is placed on the
mixed gunning bag. There is to be found in Germany a greater
abundance of varied game in one covert than is the general rule
here and the European considers it just as much sport to bag a
hare or a fox over his dog as it is to bring down a pheasant or
partridge. Shooting seasons there are such that the gun is seldom
put away, for when game is not being shot over their dogs, they
are put towork as retrievers on vermin control drives. In short,
the European really gets far more use from his shorthair than we
do in America.
In this country we have adapted the shorthair for our use as an
upland game specialist with, some waterfowiing to
perhaps,
round out the bag. Our training job is, therefore, comparatively
more simplified and rather closely adheres to the general training
pattern employed in the education of our English pointers and
setters. Perhaps we do go a bit further with our shorthairs, for
water work is seldom asked of the English pointer or setter and
our retrieving demands are more exacting than those generally
required of the other breeds mentioned.
Preliminary Field Experience

The limited space allotted in this publication naturally pro-
hibits extensive writing on the training subject; however, on
25
page 64 is a list of volumes available on the training of upland
game dogs.
One is often queried as to the proper age to start training the
young shorthair, but no firm rule is possible for so much depends on
individual temperament. There are as many schools of thought
on this subject as there are spots on a cow. In general it is safe to
say that a limited amount of discipline can be safely given be-
tween the ages of nine and twelve months. However, up to this
point, very valuable experience afield should have been made avail-
able to the puppy through frequent walks over meadowland or
fields.
The so-called "puppy walks" should start when the shorthair is

threemonths of age or even less. The idea is to let him have a good
view of the world in which he is to live and work. He must be
allowed absolute freedom to run about to his heart's content,
investigating sights and smells with no interference from his
"walker." At first many things will frighten even the boldest
puppy and prompt him to scurry back to his master, but these
should be ignored and the walk continued as if he had found
nothing at all.
In due course, the puppy will become bolder and venture further
away on each trip afield. The speed of his progress in this respect
will be governed by the frequency of the walks and every effort
should be made to get him out at least three or four times per week.
It is advisable to find an area thai is frequented by larks or other
small ground birds for him to flush and chase. The more bird life
in the area, the better, for it will do more to instill the required
initiative to strike out and hunt, than anything else. It is often
surprising to see how quickly even a junior age puppy will develop
the keen desire to hunt when given the opportunity.
At six or seven months, the shorthair should be taken into
country which will afford him the chance to find game birds, for he
now should get out and hunt with reasonable determination. It is

only to be expected that he will flush and chase the game he first
contacts and never, under any consideration, should he be punished
for it. The object, up until now, has been to fire up the hunting
urge, to make him bold and independent; and when he has ac-
quired these qualities to a satisfactory degree, then and only then,
should he be put through the first steps of yard training. Nothing
will dampen young dog's independence more than an overdose of

a
obedience work before he has had a chance to taste a bit of freedom
in the open places and preferably on plenty of game. When the
puppy has started to show definite signs of approaching his birds
boldly and coming up on some good solid points, start to give him
some of the yard training lessons that will aid in his further
development.
The two most important words used in gun dog training are
"whoa" and "come here." Most trainers agree that given a choice
of but two commands for their use, it would be the command to
stop and the one to come in.
Field Training Equipment

The necessary equipment needed for field training must in-
clude check rope, chain choke collar, whistle, and a .22 caliber
blank pistol. The check rope is the most important item of them all.
It should be twenty-five feet long and made of rather heavy sash

cord. Parachute cord and clothes line are too flimsy and have a
tendency to tangle. Attach a medium sized, swiveled harness
snap to one end of your cord and wrap bicycle tape around the
other end to prevent fraying. Heavy coats of paste wax may be
applied to the rope from time to time as a preservative or it may
be dipped in motor oil.
The whistle may be the type with the roller or one with a plain
shrill note. The best are made of bone or hard rubber.
The pistol should be any .22 caliber, but the small training pistols
are the most convenient to handle and carry in the pocket.
The chain choke collar must be of the heavier gauge to stand
the strain; it may be used as a choker or a plain collar according to
the need.
Whips and spike collars are not included, for with proper
—

perseverance on the part of the trainer, they are not needed and
great damage can result in their use by inexperienced hands.
Many of this country's great shorthair trial winners have been
made without application of either whip or spike collar.
Stopping on Command
If the puppyone of those possessed of a ravenous appetite,
is
meal time is one way

that the youngster can be started on the
command of "whoa" or "stop." The former is the term most
usually adopted. Put a collar and a leash on the puppy, set his dish
of food five or six yards away from him and in plain view. As he
makes a rush for the dish, give him the "whoa" command and stop
him before he gets to the food. Hold him still and pet him down the
back, quietly telling him to "whoa." At first there will be some
grand antics, but be firm and keep him in place. Do this at every
feeding, but increase the distance of the pan as the lessons progress
for he soon may
be stopped two or three times before he gets to
the target area, his dish. Never be tempted to try him without the
leash until you are perfectly certain he is under absolute control.
Another highly successful method is to put the puppy on a six-
foot leather lead and take him for a walk up a drive or on a road.
It is better to keep to the walks, driveways or roads at first for a
sodfield holds far too many distracting smells. Take a rather short
hold on the leash and walk along with the dog. After going a short
distance, give him the command of "whoa" and pull him up short.
At first, he will try to turn to the handler or wheel around; stop
allmotion by holding him in place and at the same time soothingly
repeat the command. Hold him still only a few moments, then give
him a go-on signal using two sharp blasts on the whistle or the usual
voice command of "high on," or "get on." Always use the same stop
and go words. This treatment should be used over and over again
a short walk, the "whoa" command, absolute restraint of motion,
and a The lesson should not last more than
clear go-on signal.
week or more the puppy will stop on com-
15 minutes. Within a
mand and should remain until sent on. As the lessons progress,
the handler can walk out ahead of the pup but he should be ever
watchful to correct the slightest impulse of the puppy to move on
with the trainer. When the puppy will remain while his handler
steps out ahead, attempt to walk a complete circle around the
dog, but tolerate no motion on his part. In due course of time, the
young shorthair will allow the handler to walk further and further
from him without attempting to follow. At this point, an effort
should be made to tempt him to move. Kicking around the high
grass on the side of the road or picking up a small stone and toss-
ing it into the weeds are two methods. The trainer must always
be in a position to be able to thwart any attempt made by the
standing dog to investigate.
Another excellent occasion to bring the "whoa" lesson into play
is pup is cut loose for a run in the field. Have him
just before the
stop on command and remain in that station until sent off.
At no time should the trainer attempt to stop the puppy on
command unless he is in a position to enforce the order.
The final stage is to take the pupil to a grass field on the end of a
twenty-five or thirty foot check rope. Make him stop at the edge
of his running grounds, stand quietly for a short period of time,
then send him on. Before he has reached the end of the rope, give a
sharp command of "whoa." It he stops, that is fine, for much
progress has been made, but if he keeps on, jerk him up sharp
when he hits the end of the line, same moment repeat the
at the
command loudly and sharply. Get to the puppy before he has
recovered from the surprise, speak quietly and make him stand in
place for a minute or more before being sent on. This time he
should be allowed to go out and run, dragging his rope without
interference for a time. If the opportunity presents itself again,
try the lesson once more in I hat period by getting the slack end of
the check and giving him the command before he hits the end.
Great care must be taken not to overdo this lesson in the field or
the puppy may become discouraged and not want to go out. This is
the last thing the trainer wants, so be very observant for signs of
discouragement and stop the moment it may appear.
Too much cannot be put upon a complete and thorough
stress
understanding of the "whoa" command. It is one phase of training
that is not to be shuffled over for it is truly the key word to success
in later development. Go slow and see that it is done right for
later it be employed in helping to hold the pup steady on
will
point. It iscommand used to develop rock steadiness to wing
the
and shot, and it is the greatest of help in making a dog honor his
bracemate's point.
Command to "Come"
By the time the puppy has reached his eighth or ninth month,
he certainly knows when to come on call; he may be doing it only
because he wants to, but he must learn to come and come fast any
time the command is issued. It is a simple procedure and the check
cord is the tool to use. The whistle can be combined with this
lesson, for nine out of ten people handle their dogs afield with the
whistle.Take the puppy to an area that offers certain distractions,
the back yard for example. Let him run around and sooner or
later he will become engrossed in some sight or smell about the
yard. When his attention is fully occupied, call him in while giv-
ing a long, low blast on the whistle. Nine times out of ten he will
pay no heed. Now is the lime to give him a sharp jerk, at the same
time calling and using the whistle. If he comes in, reward him
with a fuss, but should he fail, then bring him in, hand over hand,
right up to foot. Once in, pet him and have a little talk. After a
few experiences of this most stubborn of puppies will
sort, the
respond; but expose him to distractions and make him learn that
he is to come in on his own power and to do it quickly and without
detour.
Introduction to Firearms
Human carelessness is the one answer to the gun-shy dog, for
few ever develop this trait on their own and fewer still ever do
when the proper measures have been taken to educate puppies to
gunfire. Yet, the number of gun-shy dogs made annually among
our pointing dogs and hounds is appalling. Once gun-shyness has
been strongly implanted in a dog's mind,
it remains a difficult
problem to cure, even for our better professional trainers. Actually,

there is no excuse for it.
Perhaps the most sure-fire insurance against gun-shyness is to
have the puppy, at a very early age, associate gunfire with pleasure,
and the best time to accomplish this is at his mealtime, every
mealtime. If the puppy lives in the house, it would be better to
start feeding him out-of-doors. The owner has but to secure a
child's cap pistol, step out into the back yard, food pan in hand, and
fire the pistol. After a few meals, the crack of the pistol will be
met with a howl of joy. As the days go on, the distance of firing
from the puppy may be shortened until such time as the owner can
stand and fire the pistol a few feet from the pup as he eats. The
next step is to secure a trainer's pistol of the .22 caliber variety and
repeat the same process until the pup is accustomed to eating
with an occasional shot being fired from a sensible distance.
Later, when the pup is on his pre-training runs afield, the pistol
may be fired when he is chasing larks, rabbits, or other distracting
objects. A puppy so educated should never be bothered by the
gun blast, so long as common is used when the day
intelligence
arrives to kill game over him. A
word of caution here during the —
pup's first season afield, it would be far wiser for his owner to
hunt him alone, firing but one shot over the puppy on each piece of
game. Many a bold and seemingly gun-proof pup has been ruined
his first season by the quick and repeated blasts from an unthinking
owner and his gunning partner.
Pointing
There are two strong forces to be found within a pointing dog
puppy, one more or less working against the other. There is the
animal impulse to chase and attempt to catch sitting, running or
flying birds or animals. On the other hand, there is the inborn
instinct to hesitate or point ground game. The trainer's job is to
tolerate this impulse versus instinct within the puppy until such
time as he has definitely acquired a strong hunting desire. From
there on, the trainer's function is to aid in the development of the
pointing instinct and to eradicate the impulse to chase.
When the puppy has started to display a profound interest in
pointing stanchly, the trainer's job is to culture this characteristic
and this is by making the act of pointing game a pleasure
best done
to the puppy. He must come to associate the pointing attitude with
gentle handling and praise.
The puppy should be accustomed to trailing the check cord
attached to the non-choking link on his collar as he hunts. This will
facilitate the handler's job of getting to the puppy on his first solid
points and he should be approached as calmly as possible. Speak
soothingly, and try to get your hands on him before he rushes in to
flush his game, for the sooner he can be handled on point, the sooner
he will become stanch. After the handler has managed to approach
the pointing puppy, he should gently run his hand down his back,
push him with sufficient pressure to ease him slightly forward, but
not enough to move him out of his tracks. In most cases, this
slight urging motion will be met with the puppy bracing himself
against it. This handling should always be accompanied with
praise in a soothing voice. For the first few experiences, it is best
not to keep the puppy pointing more than a minute. Step in and
flush his bird. It is a better practice not to fire over the puppy's
first few points, but when the time does come, do it when he is on
the chase.
The "whoa" command can now be put to use in cautioning the
puppy to remain steady on point. Later on it may be employed as a
command to keep the puppy in place when the handler steps out
in front to flush his game.
Steadiness to Wing and Shot

Many authorities will not agree with the author in the following
outline for keeping dogs steady to wing and shot, but it has been
most successfully used without detracting from the dog's initiative
and boldness.
The easiest way to make a steady-to-wing-and-shot dog is not to
let the chasing habit persist once game has been killed over him. A
confirmed shot-breaker is not a habit easy to control.
It isassumed the puppy understands the full meaning of "whoa"
for that is most important here. Walk into the dog's point, pick
up the end of the check rope which should not, at first, be attached
to the choker link. The birds are flushed, the gun fired, and the
dog allowed to run the full length of the cord. The handler should
be braced for the impact that will result as a very surprised dog
will do a somersault at the end of the line. Immediately after his
throw, bring him back, hand over hand, to the spot he stood in
before he broke away with the shot. Make him stand there for a
full minute or more, pet him and send him on. The hardest-headed
individual will run against a properly handled check cord about

five times. Never remove the rope until such time as it is certain
the dog will remain stanch. It is not uncommon for the dog to
try it again when he learns the rope is not attached. Should this
occur, the handler must get him immediately, shake him a few
times by the collar and lead him back to the spot from which he
left. Sterner methods may be resorted to if the dog persists in
breaking away at shot. One thing must be kept in mind; once a
dog is steady to wing and shot, he must be kept that way. Be ever
watchful for him to make a break until such time as stanchness
has become a confirmed habit. Then, and only then, can the tension
ease for it isnot an easy matter to hold a young dog when he is
anxious to make a retrieve. Complete steadiness to wing and shot
is a universal mark of the highly polished shooting dog.
Retrieving from Land

Retrieving is definitely part of the shorthair's work and many of
them come by it quite naturally. On the other hand, there are
those that will never, on their own volition, make reliable returns
and their cases call for special measures.
Retrievers are of two distinct types. There are the so-called
natural retrievers or those that pick up the work through play,
and there are the forced retrievers. A forced retriever is one that
has come by his ability through forceful measures of his trainer.
Generally speaking, the force-trained dog makes the most reliable
retriever for he knows he must carry out his mission in the pre-
scribed manner. There are many excellent natural retrievers but
they work for the sheer joy of doing the job. Some may go through
life without losing a piece of game but should they ever decide not
to retrieve, then the handler is at a loss for a method to enforce

his order.
The new owner should make every effort first to see if his dog has
a natural retrieving aptitude. Should this fail, he must then resort
to the force retrieving system. A thorough description of this
system is far too extensive for the space allotted in this writing;
however, the reader can obtain a very fine outline of the force
system by reading any of the three books listed on page 64.
Natural Retrievers
Retrieving may become a habit with certain individuals and it
can be started when the puppy is quite young. Take the puppy
into a room or other enclosure and roll a small ball out for him to
VAi^-vi
chase. He will usually pick it up and carry it around. As soon as
the puppy has the object mouth, coax him in by clapping
in his
the hands and walking backwards away from him. When he comes
in with the ball, gently take it from his mouth and make a great
fuss over him. Repeat the performance only two or three times
for he must never be allowed to tire of the game.
This procedure should take place every day. The ball may be
replaced with a stick or a piece of rubber hose and later a dead
pigeon may be used. At first, use a pigeon that has been dead for a
number of hours to allow it to stiffen and wrap its wings closely to
its body with string to make it easier for the pup to get it in his
mouth. Each time the object is thrown, the word "fetch" should be
used and in due time the puppy will associate the word with his
retrieving act.
As the puppy progresses, the object may be thrown further from
him. Later take him into high grass so that he must use his nose to
find the bird, but refrain from making the search too difficult or
he may become discouraged and quit.
Many made by this method but
a satisfactory retriever has been
it must be borne mind that these tactics are based on his willing-
in
ness alone; therefore, it must never be overdone. Keep his desire to
retrieve keen and accompanied by ample praise.
Water Retrieving
The surest way to come by a good water retriever is by getting
him to love to swim. Before any attempt is made at water retriev-
ing, the shorthair must have acquired the willingness and self-
confidence to swim, far, wide, and in deep water. This is best
accomplished by taking him on family swimming excursions or
playing around the water with older dogs that love the water.
When the owner is absolutely sure the puppy has sufficient con-
fidence in himself, he may be started on water work. It is assumed
that he has been retrieving well from land.
Select a good hot afternoon and a spot near a lake or stream that
has a gradual beach or slope into shallow water. Let the puppy
swim for a few minutes then call him in before the dummy or bird
is thrown. The first few throws should not be far and always to a
shallow water spot so he can wade out to the object. Distance may
be increased as the lessons progress until such time as he will
swim to any length.
For the first few lessons, it would be well to use a boat fender
with a white canvas cover; it floats well, is of ideal grasping size
and form, and the would aid the dog in marking. Later,
light color
the object may be a small, live duck with tethered wings. Ducks
are always available at city poultry markets.
Training with Pen-Reared Game

Within the last score of years, pigeons and pen-reared pheasants
have come into widespread use as training aids. Their value cannot
be disputed, especially in this age of short gunning seasons and
game scarcity. The use of planted game is of particular value in
developing stanch pointing in young dogs, steadiness to wing and
shot, and early retrieving experience. But it must be remembered
that all the planted game in the world will never teach a dog the
tricks of wild and moving game birds, nor will it teach him to
search out likely bird-holding spots. It doesn't take long for an
intelligent shorthair to catch on to the pigeon planting, and, when
this occurs, much of the training value will be lostand damage to a
dog's style and intensity on point may result if the lessons are
carried too far. If controlled game is used, be ever watchful for
signs of ayoung dog souring at the game and stop its use im-
mediately and return to plenty of work on wild game.
Training to Heel
The subject of heeling has been purposely left as the last phase of
training and not without good reason. The last idea ever to implant
into a young shorthair's mind is the act of walking to heel. It
would be wiser to postpone this teaching until the dog has had a
season of actual gunning. The author has known some young short-
hairs that have learned the heeling lesson so well that they were
prone to do little else in the field. Really, heeling a dog is of little
major importance, but there are times when it may be convenient
to do so. Put the mature dog, not a pup, on a leash and be armed
with a light switch. Give him the heel command and pull him in
close to the right or left side. When he attempts to walk ahead,
repeat the command and same moment, pull him back into
at the
the heeling position. The switch may be employed to lightly tap
him on the chest or front legs when he makes other attempts to
walk on. From time to time, send him out, then call him to heel,
using the long leash to bring him into position.
Dogs learn through the medium of patient repetition and the
trainer must make his lesson periods a daily practice in order to
succeed.
Each dog is an individual and must be treated as such for there
are no ironclad training rules that will apply to all. The trainer
must carefully study the individual's characteristics and plan his
program accordingly.
At alltimes, this one thought must be kept foremost in the
trainer'smind: a sudden loss of temper and its resulting abuse to
the shorthair may result in irrevocable damage.
Chapter Seven
Showing the Shorthair
Before the new and enthusiastic shorthair owner embarks his

dog on a show career, it would be advantageous for him to visit
several A.R.C. licensed dog shows and observe the conformation
of the winning dogs. Valuable knowledge of show ring procedure
and show dog handling may also be gleaned from an afternoon or
two so spent. A careful study of the breed's standards, coupled
with an unbiased appraisal of his own pet, will greatly aid the new
owner in evaluating his own dog's merits or faults and he may act
accordingly.
The shorthair is one of the simplest dogs to ready for a show, for
proper nutrition and ample exercise are two of the paramount
steps in his preparation. Added grooming greatly aids in coat well-
being and luster. His toe nails are to be cut back to proper 1-
and the whiskers on the side of his muzzle and over the eyebrows
should be trimmed.
Theoretically, the dog show judge is to base his opinion on the
dog's conformation, but seldom does one see an unmannerly dog
walk with top honors. Therefore, ring manners must be taught
off
well in advance of show day. He must be taught to walk and trot
out at the handler's side. He must stand with his body posed in a
show position for several minutes at a time. It would be advisable
to have your neighbor come over to examine him as a show judge
would, lookingat his teeth, running his hand over the dog's body.
and making re-adjustments to his posture. Take the dog on fre-
quent trips to town so he will become accustomed to strange
39
sights and sounds. Let strangers pet and handle him, for the more
accustomed he becomes to strange sights and sounds and strange
people, the better he will be mentally prepared for showing.
Be at ringside with your dog and ready to enter the ring as soon
as your particular class is called. A busy judge will greatly ap-
preciate your punctuality. The judge will signal for a circular
movement of the ring as soon as all entrants are present. The dog
is kept at the handler's side nearest the judge. At no time shall the
handler put himself between his dog and the judge. The judge will
signal for the desired gait or call the dog to the middle of the ring
for his examination. Later, he will ask to see each individual dog
trotted back and forth the length of the ring for his observation.
The owner must stand his dog in such a manner as to bring out his
best points and move him to display him to his best advantage.
A show dates and locations may be found in the A.K.C.'s
list of
publicalion, the American Kennel Gazette. From this, you may
also obtain the name and address of the dog show superintendent
who is handling most of the shows in your area. Write him, asking
that your name be placed on his mailing list and you will be
notified of all shows held in your area. With the premiums which
he will send, will come entry blanks listing all the classes held. If
your dog is a puppy or one that is between six months to a year,
enter him as a puppy. If he is over a year and this will be his first
show, enter him in the novice class.
Since the professional handler eats, so to speak, from his dog
handling success, the novice can only expect stiff competition
from his quarter. Generally speaking, the professional's dog will
be a fine example of the breed or he wouldn't be seen in the ring
with him. In addition, he has what may be called "show know-
how." However, with all this, amateur handlers are beating pro-
fessional handlers every day, for judgment is being passed on the
dog, not the handler. The novice handler can gain a good deal of
knowledge from the professional by sitting at the ringside and very
carefully watching his tactics and thereby vastly improving his
own handling ability.
Chapter Eight
Your Sliortliair's Health
As a breed German shorthaired pointers display considerable

vitalityand are not subjected to any unusual diseases or health
problems. Given the proper start in life, followed by adequate
immunization against infectious diseases, and reasonable care,
they can be expected to maintain a high standard of health.
Upon acquiring your shorthair it is advisable to take him to
your veterinarian for a thorough physical examination, regardless
of his age. This should include examination of the eyes, ears, skin
and haircoat, heart, lungs and internal organs. At this time a
stool examination should be made to determine whether intestinal
parasites are present.
Intestinal parasites — These include roundworms, hookworms,
whipworms, tapeworms and coccidia. They by
are characterized
unthriftiness, dull haircoat, abdominal swelling, watery eyes,
diarrhea and possibly the presence of blood in the stool. If the
presence of intestinal parasites is determined, your veterinarian
will prescribe treatment according to the type found. It is inad-
visable and possibly dangerous for the owner to worm his dog in-
discriminately. All worm some degree and

expellents are toxic to
if used without caution, they may permanently damage the liver
and kidneys. Be fair to your dog. If you suspect internal parasites,

consult your veterinarian.
Virus diseases — The major virus diseases encountered in dogs
are: distemper, hepatitis (inflammation of the liver), hard pad
and the flu-like infections. Modern vaccines provide excellent
41
protection against distemper, hard pad and hepatitis, thus im-
munization at the earliest possible age is the best policy. Your
veterinarian will advise you of what in his opinion is the best
method of immunizing your dog.
These diseases have common symptoms in general. They are in
brief: high fever, loss of appetite, some degree of respiratory dis-
tress, gastro-intestinal disturbances and disorders or infections of
the central nervous system. Such symptoms should prompt the
owner to consult his veterinarian so that a correct diagnosis can
be made without delay. In any serious illness, the earlier proper
treatment is begun the earlier recovery occurs and with less per-
manent damage to the dog.
Leptospirosis — An infection of the blood stream which involves
certain organs. It is characterized by great lassitude, thirst, vomit-
ing, congested mucous membranes and possibly jaundice, de-
pending on the type of infection present. A correct diagnosis and
prompt antibiotic therapy by a veterinarian are essential for good
results.
Gastro-intestinal infections —These infections are caused by
numerous species of bacteria. They are acquired either through
ingesting contaminated foodstuffs or through normal intestinal
bacteria becoming disease producing due to abnormal conditions
in the digestive tract. They are characterized by vomiting, diar-
rhea, rapid loss of weight, dehydration, increased thirst and vary-
ing degrees of abdominal pain.
The treatment consists of rest and warmth with the removal of
all food and water. Liquid and easily digestible foods may be
given in small amounts at frequent intervals. If persistent vomiting
occurs the owner should consult his veterinarian promptly.
Tonsillitis —This is a common ailment of dogs and is caused by a
number of different types of bacteria. The symptoms are a lack
of appetite, frequent yawning and swallowing and possibly a high
fever. Acute cases should receive appropriate treatment, but if the
condition persists, a tonsillectomy should be performed for the well
being of the animal.
4f
Rabies —A vims disease that can be transmitted only by the

bite of a rabid animal. It manifests itself in two forms, the furious
and the dumb. Furious rabies is characterized by fretfulness,
moodiness, depraved appetite, inability to drink, excessive drool-
ing and a hoarse howl rather than a true bark. A few days after
the onset of symptoms, paralysis occurs and finally death.
Dumb or paralytic rabies is characterized by sleepiness, loss of
balance, difficulty in opening the mouth and paralysis of the lower
jaw and/or hindquarters.
Should you live in an area with a constant prevalence to rabies, it
would be advisable to have your dog inoculated with one of the
newer rabies vaccines. They afford excellent protection. Wild
animals frequently afford a reservoir of infection and all hunting
dogs are more likely to be exposed to the disease. Since there is no
cure for rabies, vaccination and quarantine are the only effective
methods of control.
—
Coughs A cough is generally considered a disease symptom
although it can be caused by irritating foods and gases. Coughs
are commonly associated with bronchitis, laryngitis, pneumonia,
distemper and flu-like infections. They can be indicative of asthma,
cardiac lesions and heart worms. Your veterinarian should be
consulted in case of a persistent cough or a cough associated with
fever.
Eyes —The eye of the shorthair is of sound construction. Foreign
objects sometimes enter the eye when afield, however, and produce
considerable irritation. Remove any foreign objects by flushing
the eye with warm boric acid solution. This is done by holding the
eyelids apart with the thumb and forefinger and squeezing the
solution from a saturated cotton pledget directly onto the eyeball.
Then apply a soothing eye lotion or ointment. If the inflammation
persists, consult your veterinarian. Occasionally, the Harderian
gland on the third eyelid becomes enlarged as a result of irritation.
It is a red tumorlike mass at the inner corner of the eye. Common
eye ointments may be used successfully in the early stages; how-
ever, surgery may be indicated for permanent recovery.
—
Ears Disorders of the ear may stem from ear mites, foreign
objects and infections. Inflammations of the ear are characterized
by the dog frequently shaking head or scratching at the base
his
of the ear. The ear canal is may show excessive exudate

reddened,
and usually has a foul odor. Treatment of these conditions depends
upon the cause, and a veterinarian should be consulted in all cases.
Hematomas (blood blisters) are a result of injury to the ear flap
and require surgical treatment.
—
Anal irritations All dogs have two anal glands which lie on
either side of the rectum just inside the anal ring. The secretions of
these glands may thicken, the openings become clogged or the glands
may become infected. These conditions produce swelling, discom-
fort and a foul odor. A characteristic symptom is that of the dog
dragging himself along the floor while in sitting position in an effort
to relieve the irritation. Emptying these glands is usually a simple
matter, but it should be done by a veterinarian.
Skin disorders — The skin of the shorthair is unusually resistant
to common skin ailments; however, fleas, lice and ticks infest all
breeds and may cause discomfort. The application of approved
insecticides and appropriate sanitary measures will control these
parasites effectively.
Skin eruptions caused by fungus or bacterial infections, mange
mites or eczematous conditions should be referred to a veterinarian
for proper diagnosis and treatment.
Convulsions —The causes of convulsions or fits are numerous.
Among the causes are poisons, infections, internal parasites,
external parasites, etc. A
dog suffering from convulsions will
chomp his jaws rapidly and drool. In more severe forms spasmodic
seizures occur and the dog falls to his side where the seizures con-
tinue until he is exhausted. Do not attempt to handle the dog dur-
ing a seizure, but stand by to see that he does not harm himself.
When he has recovered, place him in a cool, dark, quiet place and
contact your veterinarian.
Constipation —This condition has many causes. In adult dogs it
frequently results from eating too many bones, although it may be

caused by a growth or a foreign body lodged in the bowel. Should
your dog go two or more days without having a bowel movement,
or strains excessively when having a bowel movement, he should
be given one to three ounces of mineral oil, depending on his size.
If this does not relieve the condition in 24 hours he should be
presented to a veterinarian for an examination.
Poisoning — In addition to many commonly used chemicals being
poisonous, contaminated foodstuffs and venoms acquired through
insect stings or snake bites fall into this category. Insecticides, rat
poisons, plant sprays, fungicides, paint and strychnine are a few
of the more common chemical poisons. Should your dog show such
symptoms as salivation, vomiting, profuse diarrhea (often bloody),
restlessness, depression, weakness or sometimes convulsions, it is
possible that a poisonous substance has been ingested, and im-

mediate attention by a veterinarian should be obtained.
—
Accidents The short hair, like all hunting dogs, frequently sus-
tains wire cuts, bruises, cut feet, broken nails and scratches when
in the field. The application of a suitable antiseptic to small cuts
and scratches is sufficient treatment. If the wound is large, the dog
should be taken to a veterinarian so it can be treated and sutured.
For broken nails and cuts on the feet, if not deep, the application
of an antiseptic and rest until the wound has healed is indicated.
Accidents inflicted by automobiles constitute one of the most
serious hazards encountered by dogs. Should your dog be unfortu-
nate enough to be injured by an auto, keep him quiet and summon a
veterinarian immediately. If he must be moved, approach him with
caution for he may bite in reflex to pain inflicted through move-
ment. It is best to tie his muzzle with a piece of cord or gauze.
Severe bleeding from wounds should be stopped with a tourniquet,
but remember to release the pressure of the tourniquet at least
every twenty minutes. To move the dog place him upon a blanket
gently, and then by grasping the corners of the blanket he may be
lifted and carried safely as though on a stretcher.
Your shorthair is a sound investment, if I may use such a term.
He will provide you with years of pleasure and pride of ownership,
so guard his health carefully. Remember, when in doubt about his
health, seek professional help.
Chapter Nine
Breeding the Nliorl hair
Constructive dog breeding is a most interesting hobby, but to be
successful, onemust be equipped with a sound knowledge of breed-

ing fundamentals, a thorough knowledge of bloodlines, plus a
touch of good fortune. The novice owner will, therefore, profit more
by deferring he day he breeds his bitch until such time as he can
I
better acquaint himself with a study of the breed, its bloodlines,

characteristics, and review his reading on the principles of breed-
ing. Though the shorthair is gaining in popularity, the demand is
not so great that the novice must feel compelled to breed his pet
just as soon as she has matured. As is the case with most of our
breeds, shorthair supply is always a trifle ahead of demand.
Small puppies about the place offer a great deal of diversion,
but they soon grow and present the owner with a rather substantial
food and space problem. The preceding writing is not intended to
discourage sound breeding practices, but rather to present the
new owner with a few of the hard facts that can arise from spur of
themoment breedings that are carried out without proper thought.
The shorthair is too fine a breed to be victimized by injurious breed-
ing practices.
When the shorthair bitch has reached her third year, she will be
fully matured and her owner will have an understanding of her
merits in the field and of her physical make-up. He will know her
strong and her weak characteristics and this must be one of his
guides in selecting a stud dog. By this time, he is well acquainted
with her heat periods and should make arrangements for securing
47
the stud service of his choice well in advance of her expected period.
The bitch normally comes in season twice a year. Puppy bitches
of this breed most generally come into their first period from the
eighth to the eleventh month. The average period will extend over a
period of three weeks. The heat period is announced by a swelling
of the vulva, followed within a day or two by a bloody discharge.
As the heat period progresses and the bitch approaches her re-
ceptive stage, the character of the discharge will change from bright
red to straw color and the vulva will soften and reduce in size. At
this stage, the bitch will accept the male's advances. Some authori-
ties feel the bitch will not conceive if bred on the first day of ac-
ceptance. This theory has foundation and it would be better to
breed her on her second or third day of acceptance. Most breeders
ask that their bitch be served twice, allowing the lapse of one day
between matings.
The bitch will go out of season rapidly after the service, but great
caution must be taken for a number of days so that another male
visitor is unable to pay a successful call.
A complete understanding must be had with the owner of the
stud. The owner of the bitch should know the stud fee and the
conditions of service should his bitch fail to whelp. Some stud
owners guarantee nothing but a locked service between his dog and
the bitch. Others guarantee a return service to the same bitch
should she fail to whelp a living litter. A living litter is generally
meant to be one puppy. Few will ever guarantee a return of stud
money.
be sent to a distant point for the service, all
If the bitch is to
arrangements must be understood by the owner
for her shipping
of the stud dog. The owner of the bitch must also specify whether
he wants her to have one or two services. The stud dog's owner
should always be alerted as to the bitch's approaching season and a

phone call or telegram must announce the date and hour of her
shipping and the expected day of arrival at her destination. Ship-
ping a bitch by air or freight is a safe practice so long as she is sent
in a strong crate equipped with foolproof door fastenings.
Chapter Ten
Care of Mother and Family
The gestation period of a dog ranges from 58 to 65 days after

her mating. When the sixty-fifth day passes, and no puppies ar-
rive, a veterinarian should be consulted. All may be well and she
may be a trifle later than is the general rule, but it is far better to
have a professional opinion.
When definite pregnancy has been established, the bitch should
be examined by a veterinarian for the presence of intestinal para-
sites and at the same time, a vitamin and mineral supplement must
be purchased.
Hunting or other exercise in the field has a beneficial effect on the
bitch up to the week prior to whelping. In the last phases of
pregnancy, the bitch should not be allowed to jump or engage in
strenuous play with other dogs.
As the bitch nears her whelping period, her appetite will have
increased three-fold over her normal food consumption. She is
maintaining the unborn and her own body. The diet should
litter
now consist of the finest commercial dog food available, and added
to this should be copious quantities of milk, eggs, and at least a
pound of beef per day. Twice-a-day feeding is now advised. Bacon
drippings or lard should be added to one meal a day at the rate of
two tablespoons.
Milk with cocoa is an excellent food for the bitch in her final
stages and the general diet should be of a sloppier mix to aid her in
producing the milk she will soon have need to supply.
The expectant mother must be furnished with a place to whelp
her puppies and an adequate whelping box is the answer. The size
49
required for a short hair bitch is at least three feet by three and
one-half feet floor dimensions. Height is not so important so long
as it will protect the litter from drafts. Three feet would make the
ideal height for the back and sides of the box, the front could be
cut to six or seven inches. This would keep the puppies in the box
and still not present the bitch with a jumping problem when it is
necessary for her to leave. Many home appliance stores receive
refrigerators in heavy cardboard cases, framed in light wood, which
are ideal for the purpose of indoor whelping. Clean burlap makes
an excellent covering for the floor of the box puppies' toenails are
;
able to dig into its loose weave and it affords them traction when
nursing their dam. The burlap must, however, be stretched and
securely anchored to the floor or it will otherwise be pushed to one
side,perhaps enfolding a small puppy and smothering it.
Warmth and freedom from dampness are an absolute must if
the puppies are to survive. A cold puppy is a dead puppy and if
room temperature is not adequate at all times, day or night, arti-

ficial heat must be furnished. A simple method to heat a whelping
box is to place a 100 watt bulb in the box. The bulb should be
covered with a reflector or a large can to dim the light and to aid
in holding heat. This way, an even temperature can be provided
day and night.
It is very important that the bitch be familiarized with her new
quarters at least a week before the expected whelping day. Induce
her to sleep and to feel at home in the box.
The whelping day is generally quite evident by a marked ner-
vousness in the bitch. She will more than likely refuse her food and
walk about, panting or whining. Don't attempt to force food upon
her but see that she has an ample supply of fresh water at all times.
The actual whelping may begin with sharp cries of pain, but it
must be remembered that most bitches are quite able to take care
of themselves at this time and many would prefer to be left alone.
Her progress should be checked occasionally by her owner but
keep children or strangers away for their presence may unduly
excite the bitch.
The interval of birth may vary, but generally the entire litter is
born within a period of three hours. When making the periodic

checks on the bitch, always move an isolated puppy up near its
mother. When all is over, the bitch will bundle her litter to her for
nursing and again a check should be made for puppies that may
have strayed to the side of the box; put them back close to the
bitch's breast.
Symptoms of a retained puppy are denoted by prolonged strain-
ing. A veterinarian should be summoned if a retention is suspected.

The bitch must now be induced to take in large quantities of
milk-making liquids and should be fed warm milk, fortified with
eggs and fresh raw beef. She should receive three feedings a day
and all she will eat, but the texture of the food should be sloppy.
Short and frequent periods of exercise are important. The bitch
will be reluctant to leave the litter for the first few trips outside,
but out she must go. In wet weather, make certain that she has
been thoroughly dried before being allowed back in the whelping
box.
Small puppies require very little care other than keeping the
whelping box immaculately clean. Very little activity will come
from the puppies for the first 10 days and then their eyes will open.
With the opening of the eyes will come a pronounced increase in
movement about the box and soon the entire litter will engage in
play. It is then that they become most interesting to watch.
About the third week, the bitch should be provided with her
sanctuary from them. Raising her litter to this point has been a
great tax on her system and she will require periodic rests from
their insistent demands. If she is kept in the cellar, a folding camp
bed makes an ideal escape place, for later the litter will be out of
the box and able to follow her about. Puppies nails get very sharp
after the first week and the tiny, pin-sharp points must be cut back
to prevent undue scratching of the bitch's breasts.
Many owners would prefer not to do this bit of minor surgery
themselves and for a new owner it would be wise to call in the
veterinarian not later than the first week after whelping. Some
breeders dock the tails and dewclaws on the third or fourth day.
Far too often we see short hairs with but stumps for tails. This is a
sad mistake for a longer tail length offers more symmetry to the
dog's appearance and gives him a better rudder for movement.
The safest way to insure adequate tail length is to settle on the
half way mark and remove the tail just a trifle to the rump's side.
At maturity, the shorthair will then have about one-third length
of tail Don't hesitate to discuss this with your veterinarian
left.
for he may not have had experience with shorthair docking and
may remove more than is desired.
The extra toe high up on the inside of each front leg is a dewclaw.
They are of no use to the dog and may be troublesome later for they
can get caught on twigs or other obstacles in the field. Have them
removed at tail-docking time. The foot will have a much trimmer
appearance without them.
At the end of the third week, the puppies should be placed on a
liquid diet. Some breeders furnish a formula when first supplement-
ing the bitch's milk instead of abruptly switching to cow's milk
which is constituted differently from that of the bitch. The formula
is simple to make: one-half can of evaporated milk, one-half can
of water, and three teaspoons of white corn syrup. This is generally
fed from the third to the fifth week, after which time a gradual
switch is made to cow's milk. The puppies are introduced to their
food by dipping their muzzles into a low pan of warmed milk. It

takes but a few minutes for one or two of the litter to catch on to
the act and they willall be at it soon after.
At the end of the fourth week, the puppies should be eating four
times a day, morning, noon, evening, and bedtime. Their diet
should be mainly of a liquid nature, milk or beef broth thickened
with baby cereal. Their demands on the bitch will now be greatly
reduced and she should be taken from them for longer periods of
time. They will, of course, continue to feed from her whenever she
is them throughout the night but
present. She should be kept with
removed during the day.
Puppies in their fifth week can be introduced to a name brand
puppy meal mixed with their milk, and it would be well to now feed
finely chopped pieces of meat. Meat scraps are excellent to alternate
with the milk.
Perhaps the commonest ailment of all puppies is that of the
roundworm. The puppies cannot hope to thrive when there is an
infestation and the sixth week is the time to consult the veterinar-
ian regarding medication unless the presence of worms has been
suspected before this time.
After the bitch has been permanently removed from her litter,
she must be placed on a diet to dry her milk supply. For a week or
more, keep her on a dry food Limiting her water supply to
diet.
three drinks per day for the two days often hastens a reduction
first
in her milk. Some breeders find it helpful to rub warm camphorated

oil on the breasts for a few days to reduce the glands. The raam-
maries should be examined for the presence of caking and hardness.

If such is found take her immediately to the veterinarian. As a
rule, the bitch seldom is troubled with prolonged milk-making and
quickly dries up once she has been removed from her puppies.
Chapter Eleven
The Spaying Question
Ovariotomy, or the spaying of a bitch, is a major operation in

which the female reproductive organs are removed. Ever since the
operation became a practice, it has been a subject of no little con-
troversy among dog people and convincing arguments are arrayed
on either side of the question.
The only advantage in spaying is that the bitch will no longer
come into her heat periods and thus owner of the special
relieve her
attention hemust provide twice annually. She no longer need be
confined and the nuisance of male callers will come to an end.
However, it would seem simpler for the person who is unwilling
to care for a bitch in season twice a year to purchase a male.
The bitch after spaying has naturally lost all her reproductive
powers. Many spayed bitches go through a complete mental and
physical change and the owner must use caution in feeding her
for she may have a tendency to lay on excess fat and become le-
thargic. Surely this is not a bright outlook for a bitch bred to be
an active sporting dog. In addition, with the loss of her sexual
organs, the spayed bitch loses her right to be exhibited in dog
shows.
When the normal bitch comes in season, she must now be placed
in closeconfinement and out of reach of the males that are bound
to be attracted. The cellar is about the best place so long as the
windows are securely fastened and the doors kept locked. Children
should be cautioned about leaving the bitch out or a male dog in.
When the bitch's mating urge is at its peak, she becomes as
54
The Spaying Question 55
anxious to break out of confinement as the males are to get in, so
extreme care must be taken at all times.
Recently, several lotions have been marketed that are highly
effective in warding offmale advances, but their potency remains
for only a few hours and they cannot be entirely depended upon.
They are very useful when freshly applied just before taking the
bitch for a walk, or when hunting if she is in heat during the gun-
ning season.
Chapter Twelve
Care of the Aging Shorthair
As with all living things, a shorthair's age is not necessarily

determined by the number of birthdays, for many shorthairs are
able to render very useful field service over a surprisingly wide
span of years, and, because of their freedom from ills, make for
more enjoyable companions. On the other hand, we see many dogs
of eight or nine years that are "over the hill" so to speak, their
gunning days far behind them.
Heredity may play its part in longevity, but balanced nutrition,
healthful environment and sufficient exercise throughout life are
more powerful forces in determining the number of years our
shorthairs will retain their fitness.
—
Diet The feeding rule for the older shorthair is a diet of high
quality but less quantity. Foods rich in protein and low in fats
should make up his diet. The aging animal requires plenty of
calcium and an adequate amount of vitamins, especially vitamin
A. The owner must constantly guard against his shorthair be-
coming fat, for fat once laid on an older dog is difficult to remove.
Excess fat not only forms over the body surface but also around
vital organs and the result is added burden to an aging heart and
vascular system.
The aging heart—At the age of eight or nine years, an annual
heart check should be made, especially before the field training
periods, to determine the extent of hard physical exercise the older
shorthair may safely have. The annual preparation for field work
must necessarily be more gradual and of a far less strenuous nature
56
Care of the Aging Shorthair 57
than with the younger dog. During the gunning season, the older
dog should never be permitted to work himself into a state of
exhaustion, but should at once be taken up at the first sign of
tiring no matter how great the temptation may be to keep on, for
some plucky old dogs will hunt themselves to the point of dropping
dead.
A little common sense is vital in prolonging health and useful-
ness of the aging shorthair.
—
Teeth A periodic check for damaging excess tartar and loose
and abscessed teeth should be made by a veterinarian twice a year.
As the older dog develops tooth troubles, his diet should be of a
softer texture so he can eat an adequate amount without discom-
fort.
Skin troubles — Perhaps the most common skin troubles of the

aging pet are eczema and skin tumors. Eczema is more often as-
sociated with summertime although there are several variations

that make their appearance at any season of the year. It attacks
the back, head, neck and the external surface of the extremities.
The condition is not one for home treatment and a veterinarian's
examination must be immediate to determine the variety of eczema
and to prescribe for its cure.
Skin tumors are very common and also warrant the service of a
veterinarian, for some are of a malignant nature and prompt
diagnosis and treatment cannot be over emphasized.
Sleeping quarters — Rheumatism of the muscular system is a
condition common to old age and it may be due to cold atmospheric
conditions. Therefore, great care must be exercised to see that the
dog's sleeping quarters are, at all times, dry and free of drafts.
Older dogs should always be dried well before being put in the car
after a wet day in the Geld or a swim. A long ride home with a wet
coat is the surest way to bring on an attack of muscular rheumatism
in dogs of any age.
Chapter Thirteen
German Shorthair Standard

(Adopted March 20 , 1946, by the German Shorlhaired Pointer
Club of America, Inc., and approved by the American Kennel Club,
May 7, 1946)
General appearance —The overall picture which is created in the

observer's eye should be that of an aristocratic, well-balanced,
symmetrical animal with conformation indicating power, en-
durance and agility and a look of intelligence and animation.
The dog should be neither unduly small nor conspicuously large.
It should rather give the impression of medium size, but be like
the proper hunter, with a short back, but standing over plenty of
ground. Tall, leggy individuals seldom possess endurance or sound
movement.
Dogs which are ponderous or unbalanced because of excess
substance should be definitely rejected. The first impression should
be that of a keenness which denotes full enthusiasm for work
without indication of nervous or flighty character. Movement
should be alert, co-ordinated without waste of motion.
Grace of outline, clean-cut head, sloping shoulders, deep breast,
powerful back, strong quarters, good bone composition, adequate
muscle, well-carried tail and taut coat, all of which should combine
to produce a look of nobility and an indication of anatomical

structure essential to correct gait which must indicate a heritage of
purposefully conducted breeding.
Head — Clean-cut, neither too large nor too heavy, in proportion
to the body. Skull should be reasonably broad, arched on side and
slightly round on top. Scissura (median line between the eyes at
59
the forehead) not too deep, occipital bone not too conspicuous as
in the case of the pointer.
The foreface should rise gradually from the nose to the forehead
—not resembling the Roman nose. This is more strongly pro-
nounced in the dog than in the bitch, as befitting his sex. The chop
should away from the somewhat projecting nose. Lips should
fall
be and deep, never flewy. The chops should not fall over too
full
much, but form a proper fold in the angle. The jaw should be
powerful and the muscles well developed.
The line to the forehead should rise gradually and should never
possess a definite stop as in the case of the pointer, but rather a
stop-effect when viewed from the side, due to the position of the
eyebrows.
The muzzle should be sufficiently long to enable the dog to
seize properly and to facilitate his carrying game a long distance.
A pointed muzzle is not desirable. The entire head should never
give the impression of tapering to a point. The depth should be in
the right proportion to the length, both in the muzzle, and in the
skull proper.
Ears — Ears should be broad and set fairly high, lie flat and never
hang away from the head. Placement should be above eye level.
The ears, when laid in front without being pulled, should about
meet the lip angle. In the case of heavier dogs, they should be
correspondingly longer.
—
Eyes The eyes should be of medium length, full of intelligence
and expressive, good-humored, and yet radiating energy, neither
protruding nor sunk.
The best color is a dark shade of brown. Light yellow, china or
wall (bird of prey) eyes are not desirable.
Nose — Brown, the larger the better; nostrils well open and broad.
Flesh-colored and spotted noses are not desirable.
Teeth—The teeth should be strong and healthy. The molars
should intermesh properly. Incisors should fit close in a true
scissor bite. Jaws should be neither overshot nor undershot.
Neck — Of adequate length to permit the jaws reaching game to
V«£ _
be retrieved, sloping downwards on beautifully curved lines. The

neck should be rather muscular, becoming gradually larger
towards the shoulders. Moderate hound-like throatiness permitted.
The breast and the thorax —The breast in general should give the
impression of depth rather than breadth; for all that, it should be
in correct proportion to other parts of the body with fair depth of
chest.
The ribs forming the thorax should be well-curved and not
flat; they should not be absolutely round or barrel-shaped. Ribs
that are entirely round prevent the necessary expansion of the
chestwhen taking breath. The back ribs should reach well down.
The circumference of the breast immediately behind the el-
bows should be smaller than that of the breast about a hands-
breadth behind elbows, so that the upper arm has room for move-
ment.
—
Back and loins Back should be short, strong and straight with
slight rise from root of tail to withers. Excessively long or hog-
backed should be penalized. Loins strong, of moderate length and
slightly arched. The tuckup should be apparent.
—
Assembly of back members The hips should be broad with hip
sockets wide apart and fall slightly toward the tail in a graceful
curve. Thighs strong and well muscled. Stifles well bent. Hock
bone structure
joints should be well angulated with strong, straight
from hock to pad. Angulation of both stifle and hock joints should
be such as to combine maximum combination of both drive and
traction. Hocks should turn neither in nor out.
—
Assembly of front members The shoulders should be sloping,
movable, well covered with muscle. The shoulder blades should lie
flat. The upper arm (also called the crossbar, i.e. the bones between
the shoulder and elbow joints) should be as long as possible,

standing away somewhat from the trunk so that the straight and
closely muscled legs, when viewed from in front, should appear to
be parallel. Elbows which stand away from the body or are pressed
right into same indicate toes turning inwards or outwards, which
should be regarded as faults. Pasterns should be strong, short and
nearly vertical.
Feet — Should be compact, close knit and round to spoon-shaped.
The toes sufficiently arched and heavily nailed. The pad should be
strong and hard.
Coat and skin —The skin should look close and tight. The hair
should be short and thick and tough and hard to the hand;
feel
it is somewhat longer on the underside of the tail and the back
edge of the haunches. It is softer, thinner and shorter on the ears

and the head.
—
Tail Is set high and firm, and must be docked, leaving approxi-
mately two-fifths of length.
The tail hangs down when the dog is quiet, is held horizontally
when he is walking, never turned over the back or considerably
bent but violently wagged when he is on the search.
—
Bones Thin and fine bones are by no means desirable in a dog
which should be able to work over any and every country and
should possess strength. The main importance accordingly is laid
not so much on the size as being in proper proportion to the body.

Dogs with coarse bones are handicapped in agility of movement
and speed
and height— Dogs—
Desirable weight fifty-five to seventy pounds.
Bitches —forty-five to sixty pounds.
F r
'
mi
:
'-' ;
BMft
Dogs — twenty-three to twenty-five inches. Bitches— twenty-one

to twenty-three inches at the shoulders.
Color — Solid liver. Liver and white spotted. Liver and white
spotted and ticked, liver and white ticked, liver roan. Any colors
other than liver and white are not permitted.
Symmetry and field quality are most essential.
A dog well balanced in all points is preferable to one with out-

standing good qualities and defects. A smooth, lithe gait is most
desirable.
Faults — Bone structure too clumsy or too light, head too large,
too many wrinkles in forehead, dish-faced, snipy muzzle, ears too

long, pointy or fleshy, flesh-colored nose, eyes too light, too round
or too closely set together, excessive throat iness, cow hocks, feet or
elbows turned inwards or outwards, down on pasterns, loose

shoulders, sway-backed, black coat or tri-colored, any colors
except liver or some combination of liver and white.
Suggested Reading
Training Your Own Bird Dog, Henry P. Davis, G. P. Putnam's
Sons, New York. 1949.
How to Train Hunting Dogs, William F. Brown, A. S. Barnes

and Company, New York. 1942.
Breed Magazine
German Shorthaired Pointer News, Published Monthly by
E. L. and Dee Baab, Route 1, Hightstown Road, Cranbury,
New Jersey.
Breed Clubs
American Kennel Club, 221 Fourth Avenue, New York 3, New
York.
German Shorthaired Pointer Club of America, Inc. Minneapolis,
Minnesota. D. I. Sandberg, secretary, 930 15th Ave., No., So.
St. Paul, Minn.

Pet German Shorthaired Pointer

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Pet German Shorthaired Pointer

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

PET GERMAN

Your Shorthair's Health

All-Pets Books, Inc.

Fond du Lac, Wisconsin

All-Pets Books, Inc.

Fond du Lac, Wisconsin

First Edition, January, 1956

Second Printing, November, 1956

Catalog Card Number 56-7804

Exercise and Environment 14

The New Puppy in the Home 18

Training the Shorthair 25

Showing the Shorthair 39

Your Shorthair's Health 41

Breeding the Shorthair 47

Care of Mother and Family 49

The Spaying Question 54

Care of the Aging Shorthair 56

The German Shorthair Standard 59

Gladys Emerson Cook

The German shorthaired pointer's rise to its present popularity

him the necessary experience to round out as a proficient field

with the same enthusiasm and efficiency as do the retrieving breeds.

in this country. The makes for speedy

To visitors, the shorthair displays a reserved friend iness.

over him upon the first meeting.

Records show us that German short-

dog. They had formulated standards of physical perfection and

established fact that one was known to have been

A.K.C. recognition first came to the shorthair breed in March,

Exercise and Environment

The prospective purchaser of a German shorthaired pointer

A shorlhair will provide himself with all the exercise he normally

Should circumstances demand that the shorthair be confined to

problem has been solved and the percentage of fat is said to be

The New Puppy in the Home

Selecting the Puppy

for the curious puppy that shows a trifle more independence. He

The Pup's Arrival

Feeding the Puppy

chicken. Vegetable table scraps can be added to this. Growing

Grooming the shorthair, compared with many of the other

Training the Short hair

In Europe, the training of a shorthair is, by far, a more compli-

Preliminary Field Experience

The so-called "puppy walks" should start when the shorthair is

now should get out and hunt with reasonable determination. It is

will dampen young dog's independence more than an overdose of

Field Training Equipment

It should be twenty-five feet long and made of rather heavy sash

28 Pet German Shorthaired Pointer

meal time is one way

problem to cure, even for our better professional trainers. Actually,

Steadiness to Wing and Shot

individual will run against a properly handled check cord about

Retrieving from Land

to retrieve, then the handler is at a loss for a method to enforce

Training with Pen-Reared Game

Showing the Shorthair

Before the new and enthusiastic shorthair owner embarks his

Your Sliortliair's Health

As a breed German shorthaired pointers display considerable

discriminately. All worm some degree and

and kidneys. Be fair to your dog. If you suspect internal parasites,