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    12 views72 pages

    Tips - The Art of Hand Sewing Leather PDF

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    Sameh_Abd_Aziz

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    of 72
    CUSTOM- MADE PROJECTS ON THIS. AND BACK COVER ALL COMPLETELY HAND SEWN. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ANN STOHLMAN HAND SEWING TwE CAACTLE RiP OM A SADDLE Gh om SARING A special thanks to my wife, Ann, for her most valuable assistance in making this hand sewing book a reality. She has personally sewn most of the items in this book, including inside and outside covers . . . all by hand, In the past fourteen years she has sewn thousands of leather projects, dozens of saddles and related items using many, many one |b, spools of linen thread. Every stitch the items and projects shown . . .ishand sewn .. . practically all of them by Ann. Thanks, also, to Mr. Cletus E. Manley of Peoria, Illinois, for information on the hog bristles. Al Stohiman Stic Published by Tandy Leather Factory Fort Worth, TX 76105 Copuaight 1877 - Tandy Leather Co. (©2016 by “andy Le ther Fautory INDEX TOOLS; MATERIALS REQUIRED - PREPARING THE THREAD . THREADING THE NEEDLES.....--- 6 PREPARING LEATHER FOR SEWING .......7 STABBING WITH THE AWL..25es0ee2020009 HOW TO HOLD NEEDLES; AWL ...- 0000009 SEWING THE LEATHER... 0000070000 10 TYING THE THREAD ENDS .....-0060000-18 BEGINNING WITH KNOTTED THREAD...» 19 TROUBLE: PIERCED THREAD ... 20 TROUBLE: BROKEN THREAD .......-++.-21 SEWING AMITER JOINT 222 MAKING LEATHER BOXES USING WOODEN FORMS. .. HAND SHOE TACKS; SEWING AIDS... .... CURVED NEEDLES AND AWLS SEWING WITH CURVED NEEDLES ..-..- ..30 SEWING BUCKLES: STRAPS; LOOPS ....... 36 SEWING DOUBLE REVERSED LOOP SEWING REVERSED SLIDE LOOP ..-..-.. 4 ay SEWING THE BLOCK LOOP ...-.---. +--+ a2 SEWING WELTS .. 05-0 26eeeeee ere eee A SEWING THE BASEBALL STITCH ....--...47 SEWING THROUGH SHEARLING ..... <2. 1 COMPLETING THE PILLOW ....... + SEWING THE HIDDEN STITCH ......-.. ++ 54 SEWING ROUNDS "MAKING" A THREAD .. HOG BRISTLES ...... 20.2600 e eee eee 82 SIZES; OVERSTITCH WHEELS . CONCEALED APPLIQUE STITCH ........-4 64 AL STOHLMAN STITCHING PONY ........ 66 TIPS AND SUGGESTIONS : SORE FINGERS USING WOODEN DOWELS. SPLICING WELTS ., , SINGLE PLY WELTS SEWING THROUGH WOOL . ‘SINGLE THREAD SEWING ... USING BROKEN GLASS ............ FOREWORD ‘This book: “The Art of HAND SEWING LEATHER” is the culmination of over 30 years of knowledge ‘and practical experience in Hand Sewing. It ts presented t0 perpetuate the fading art of hand sewing =. in this age of mass production by machi ‘Though slower, hand sewing is superior to machine sewing. It is the best method of stitching two or more pieces of leather together for lasting years of wear and service. No patterns, for specific projects, are presented as space does not permit. The instructions in this book ‘are to enable you to sew any project you may wish to make or repair. The various techniques included in these pages are given to assist you with any sewing endeavor. Before machines, everything requiring stitching was sewn by hand, Most of the old-time boot and shoe makers used hog bristles (in place of harness needles) and a curved aw! for sewing in difficult places. There are still a few, today, who sew in this manner. Much hand sewing is still being done where better construc- tion and quality leathergoods are desired. In the Stohlman’s saddlery shop . . . every stitch in all saddles. and all leather projects is completely sewn by hand. No machines are used. ‘There are many things that can be sewn only by hand. Much of the repair work demands hand sewing, as it may be impossible to re-sew on a machine ‘though it was originally done so. An article constructed in step-by-step stages. Therefore, when seam (for example) rips loose, it is usually impossible to put on a machine-again, without taking itall apart. 1t can, however, be re-sewn by hand. There are thousands of different sowing machines, designed for multiple or specific uses, The most Common of the machine stitches is called the “lock” stitch, This is made with a top thread and a botton thread... . which is in a small spool called the "bobbin". The lock stitch is formed by the top thread going around the bobbin spool, picking up the bottom ‘thread, to form a loop. When properly adjusted, the loop is pulled between the two thick- nesses of materials being sewn, The cutaway illustrations below show the differences in the LOCK STITCH... and the HAND STITCH. wate BROKEN... Tae LOckSTITEH WILL UNDO WISELE FOR SEVERAL STITCHES. THREAD ON BOM SIDES OF MATERIAL (S LGOSENED, ae en arenes Sas errr se Se eee ate. Hand Sewing will sem uncomfortable and slow. Disregard all attempts at speed . . team tone properly, a inetucted. You will find hand sewing is fun and easy. You will soon be fast and professional with your stitches. Speed will come by itself practice, TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED FOR HAND SEWING ‘BEES WAX sep For PRESERVING ecg Sate HARNESS, NEEDLES, LUNTED ENDS, B75 chos’ne- AROUND SIZE LACING PONY This is a substitute for the stitching horses shown at fight. It is good for small items, but not suitable for heavy work. It is placed on a chair and sat upon... .t0 hold. Complete PLANS FOR BUILDING THE At SroHLman STITCHING PONY OM PAGE 66 overstitcH WHEEL, FER MARKING Evireume woes ho. ts Go0p FOR SADDLER'S STITCHING HORSE This tool is used for holding leathers in the clamped jaws . . . allowing both hands to be free for sewing. Some items cannot be put in the itching horse and must be held between the legs, or in some other feshion, to sew. Example on page 31, stvrenine re GROOv! TER caine, eae Sates as LINEN THREAD. pest FoR nan Seeing. Scomp TS Goo ron cew FRAL USE, PRE WAKED THREAD SS nor coop, aS ragPek ENDS Cam Nor Be mabe Ae Strouieman STITCHING PONY This tool was designed for those who are unable to abtain the regular stitching horse. This is designed to use with regular household chair, Build your own; plans on page 66. PREPARING THE THREAD Preparing the thread . .. properly . . . is of the utmost importance for ease of sewing and lasting service. ul attention should be given to tapering the ends and threading the needles. Carefully study the photos, drawings, and instructions on this and t pages. following [1] trace ives ant ite on bene, 5 shown, about" {rom end of Uta Rost heel ef ‘blsde on bench and tit the blade angle toward: the end of shred. lero To determine correct length of thread, pull two lengths off spool... equal to your arms’ lengths (shown above). This will be about 8° to 10’ jn total length. Do this with each thread you prepare, Do not cut thread length to fit any particular project, Make them all of about the same lenath. No thread will be wasted. Instructions explain joining threads, using short ends, etc light pressure to blade and Too much pressure on blade will cut FE] see sa pr ote ad Tecan prem on ate blade unravels and “frays” ends of and pull ie fibers lease, sore thread; angle of blade reduces danger operation with more press of cutting. end of thread. r PREPARING THE THREAD — Continued iE A stone OvERNAND nator erat Place the thread over a hook or The convert fo fine, poinied ends. Repeat th briskly with. bees wax. Wax ends is To quien Coast ath oe ae see thoroughly to fine points. Waxing GUNTER Be Sheva ond ‘eveniy apered. Repost the thread lenghens its life and wien SEWN ‘operation on other ond of thread prevents fraying while sewing, \ _— HOW TO THREAD THE NEEDLES _~ pe ath Pierce thread with needle Push thread up on needle, Point as. shown, to eve, thread’ with Wax end to “tase” Pull end of thread theo together. Repeat operati eve as far as it will gan old needle ant ull thread over other thread and needle VE to lock end of tira THREAD IS READY FOR ©) PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR SEWING FLeH SweS ToORTHER To begin . .. we will take two pieces of scrap leather of any sige or thickness... so you can practice hand sewing. 4 02. to 6 oz. leather would be preferable as it will be easier to pierce with the awl. Cut leathers any size desired, Use rubbor cement and adhere the two pieces together. Trim the edges of both pieces . .. so that the edges are flush. caarroon, Srireuine eksoute TOTAL THICKNESS OF LEATHERS. © To BE SEWN Use the gouging tool of your choice and gouge a r si 41 channel around the edges Of the leather. Gouge the 1 determining “How far" from the edge 19 leathers on both sides, Keep tool tight against leather He follows Ind. make she qougerabont te ‘edges to insure a uniform gouge along the edge. eee ee ee ee ee et thickness of the leathers to be sewn, (See above.) ovesrren samen o ™ Moisten the gouged channels lightly with 3 damp sponge, and run the overstitch wheel all around the channel... . on the front side only. This marks position of awl holes to insure even stitches. Clamp feathers in stitching horse close to channel, as shown an inch oF s0 from the comer. Note . . . we are not ing in the corner... because of instruction clarifica (in later steps} on how to end stitching and begin with knotted threads, etc, \ STABBI Hold the awl in hand as shown above, End of ant handle should press oghinst twel of hand. If aw! handle feels too long: €at off some of the end, entra _eoaneer When stabbing the owl holes, alway’ hold the avt at the same angie (right angie to leather) so that all stitches will be uniform, Practice insures uniformity The smatiost hole, possible, for needie ek esrale. You willoscn after piercing te theaw, that will “stick” or "abe ‘when trying to witharaw. e's gecwrally pace orally necessary To tiwist it either 10 eight or ie he feaer = foremy remna TEO® Do Saoe ee abe teen necesiary; makes bad appearing stitches The oi fon back side) should come out he gouged channel. It will not tak af Sub the holes properly, on" MCh Bratice to cerca ued $58 Nance weet ro aSSIST STAB” TO ne THE HOLES. ‘The purpose of the awl is to pierce hhole through the feathers to allow at the nivale, See the ustrations at right for correct ange of dw blade. Stab first hole at far end of stitching jaw, as shown, N@ wits THE AWL SWARPENING THE AWL BLADE ow stant — If the avd blade does not penetrate the leather easily, It eotably needs sharneniing. Sharpen by rubbing the {our flat surfaces (indicated by arrows in cross section) of 3 cll stone. Hold firmly against oiled stone; work back and orth, Sirop on a rouge board to polish the surfaces. sharp aed isa "must" for easy sewing. b any one ol Je. bo Not presi ‘lose up: have to be reopened, cau work and ts een Shroush hele eee in rend) Oo ym nar "The ‘heen are naw HOW TO HOLD THE NEEDLES AND THE AWL Now . . . place awi in right hand as shown, Hold with shumb, Close little finger on awl handle. Keep needie between fingers, 2s illustrated, Pick up the needies and hold in the fingers as shown above. Let the full fength of the thread, on each aide, drop down, DO NOT... WHILE SEWING ... LAY DOWN THE NEEDLES... OR THE AWL! At first, it will bo uncomfortable; feal awkward. The temptation is to lay down the awi after stabbing a hole. Keep it in your hand? Stick with the following instructions and it won't be too long before you will be hand-sewing properly, easily and comfortably. KEEP NEEDLES BETWEEN FINGERS After stabbing second hole, transfer needle (left hand) to thumb and forefinger ax shown at left. 2nd Fcen OF Leer sawp Te Push Rent cen, 45 Shown 3) ‘Transfer needle (right hand) to Turn hand and stab second hote with aw! as shown roper 3 thumb and forefinger at shown, shown shows: Be sure (0 30b Bore Sore | KEEP AWL IN HAND... DO NOT be eae LAY IT DOWN! Each hand must man 5 nar tern omen ee! ipuiate needle and/or awl by itself without the aid-of Se omer hand: SEWING THE LEATHER Push needle "A" through second hole from back side, as shown. ALWAYS PUSH BACKSIDE NEEDLE THROUGH HOLE FIRST! Int hand needle ““B" ... under needle WW pull right hand, holding borh need until needle “A” comes through the hole. Pull Move right hand up... so that fingers ean several inches of thread through the hole grasp needle “A”. Needle “B" must still remain under needle “A”. CONTINUE WITH THE SEWING on gigs jnt hand over and insert needle “ hole, next to thread of needle “A”... that is coming through. Grasp the thread on back side with left hand, ALWAYS PUSH RIGHT HAND. NEEDLE THROUGH HOLE ON SAME SIDE OF THREAD! After right hand pushes needie almost through .... drop thread with left hand .. « ‘and grasp needle “8” as shown.. Right hand ‘continues to hold needle A” in fingers. ‘As you puth needle “B’ through hole ... sim: Lultaneously pull threod with left handt This ingures that the point of the needle will not penetrate the strands of the thread. If needle goes through any thread strand, it will have to be removed... oF a proper stitch cannot be completed, (See page 20 for pierced threads.) ‘Now continue pulling needle "B” through, and ppull several inches of thread through the hole. E SEWING CONTINUE WITH THI Tre 5 aril mp mete scrin ours senescent Retsil mae Ne ante eee eevee “A” > Remains i AnD Simultaneously, transfer right hand needie back between’ fingers. Wrap little finger around thread (large. arrow)... pull up slack, asshown. Transfer needle back between fingers. Wrap 3rd-and 4th fingers around thread (large arrow)... pull slack out of thread as shown above. _ NEED COAMP THREAD Towle FRONT VIEW..... SHOWING: HOW THREADS SHOULD LOOK WITH THE ARMS s EXTENDED. THRERD YET To BE PULLED UP Now - pull a oo Rall af OBE 8 Fl erat. co tay . Tit makes ton eee length, Pull a through the holes, ‘Ser sewing and has | 1p the slack in the thread. This will take uP ms generally straight out from the project, a5 '®85 Wear and friction on the thread being pulled CONTINUE WITH THE SEWING After pulling threads (as in step 16) move hands back to project. Let threads drop out from under little fingers. Re-grip threads close to leather, as shown. Grasp the same ‘threads you had been previously pulling. Pull on threads .... at the same time turning hands out: ‘ward, Extend the little fingers so that the thread comes in front of them. Threads (under thumbs) should go over top of index and second fingers. “TREADS CHER FinsT Wo TinORS waenes UNDER LAST THO sn With hands in position... (step 18)... fold little fingers over thread as shown in Musretion above, Hold tightly. This locks threads in fingers. Pull will be against ‘bottom of little fingers and not on the eyes of the CONTINUE WITH THE SEWING Bo seg scck ten ta oll 6 tveads to take up remuining slack, op row itove, Hout Metohed aor will oot fate up att of the ack... drop again... andiropeat eps 17-14-10, Keep oeucies between Fingers... kaam awl it right CONTINUE WITH THE SEWING fe WITH THE SEWING CONTINU! complete the stitching ... bockstitch two holes needles, jously instructed, Tein arrows). Enlarge the bockstitch holes with the trae ae atch Goh (small Ainsart needles. Pull the threads tight with each one : “4 stitch Toke project out of stitching horse, Cut threads Lay on bench and “tap” over all stitching with off, In stitching channel, on both sides. Use a sharp a smooth-faced hammer, knite, Sewing is completed, Rum the overstitch wheel Th (ver all of the stitches s Tact es pees fal at ot Protessonatism, i te fat ub of hl ant oro above irregular stitthes. © of any slightly ‘Moisten edges and burnish with a cloth, oF ‘edge slicker, CONTINUE SEWING .-. RUNNING OUT OF THREAD If you are sewing and use up a full length of / thread (with only a few inches left} and have not reached the. starting hole ... pull last stiteh tight and tie threads together on top of the edge, as shown above. Any kind of double knot will do, staatina ous O@ serge Continue sewing to starting hole, ¢s previously ‘bed, Keep sewing area above jaws. Back- “stitch two holes... as in step 29. Cut needles off threads. Prepare a new thread (page 5) insert aw! .... one hole bock fromm last stitch and push needle through, Pull thread to: center ( step 1 on page 9). When starting 9 new thread, it is permissable to push first needle through from front side. Beginning one hole back ... “locks” the last hole-threads in place. ba Cut off the threads as described in step 30. Do not cut into the stitched threads. With sewing com- pleted, follow through steps 31-32-33, 3 ” TYING THE THREAD ENDS TOGETHER rutenn NDS Sinco the thread is waxed ... the weaver’s knot yiy eee bie Totus thy weed or not hold. Begin by tying a simple overnund oor rl stg, the sls wi have eed Shown above (A), Leave about 17" of end Altona sewing. the ends wil have to together. Next .... form a loose “square” knot Take one extra twist (G) around the with the ends (B) as shown above, thread . ...as shown above. INDEX FINGERS ae eas eae mas eipoanie aie Loop threads around index fingers, 08 the fingers. Oht 98 possible with eed er, tight as pos Soe and pull knot down 38 tg ends off close to knot. BEGINNING WITH A KNOTTED THREAD manne “Be Take needle “A” over top edge of project . .. To start 2 new project with @ knotted thread . stab hole and pull thread through from backside, pulling knot up close to leather as shown above, ‘and back through the same hole, Be careful not to pierce the thread, Continue sewing. Move project 2 you are always Adjust threads so that knot comes on top edge. Pull sewing above jaws. If you run out of thread before threads tight. completing project, tie threads as in step 34, Make a new thread and continue sewing as in step 36. or Oe %, 8 ast owe owe sriven BevOnD FIRST HOLE = then Now backstiteh two holes. . . same as step 29, Cut off the threads as previously des Sew around project . . . through first hole». wen - cribed. take one extra stiteh beyond first hole, as sh tight. This locks ends of knotted thread. — PIERCING THE THREAD TROUBLE SHOOTING veebur oy: weenie “AT ead, To correct the situation, separate tapered end [pl mes profemional evar wil somatines parce» thee, of thread on needle “8 .. and pullend ect cle "8har rd ead ede “A"-youcannat of tread Heme the ned, weeDe “Bo Pull thread . . . from needle “8”. Pull thread bback out of Foie: out of pierced thread, as shown, Re-wax pierced thread . . . and end of thread from needle“ ‘needle beck on thread, as shown on page 6. EUS, needle 18" beck through hole. Simul. Yat amen thei ih eft hand a Project. should now shown. Use seme procedure aston 1nd St spon ah : TROUBLE SHOOTING — BROKEN THREAD “Sa a, Once in a while. . . for various reasons . . Cut off the unbroken thread about the same ee ee when pulling a stitch distance from the leather, as the broken thread. Srviug eno. MoDELang Too. With the stylus end of your modeling too!, pull the Tie the ends on top edge, as shown, Make a new loose ends of the threads out of the holes... until thread, Pull to center, one hole back from knotted you have about 3” of loose ends on each side. ends. Continue sewing as in step 35. BROKEN THREAD We, |f you have followed the instructions On occasion... . the thread will break at the the outside of your litte fingers will be sore needle eye. It is difficult to taper the end of a from pulling an the threads, Continued sewing waxed thread. Pull the fibers apart with fingers and scrape as much beeswax off as possible. Follow steps 1-2-4 on pages 5 and 6. Re-wox; put back on needle. will build up callouses. However, you can use tape, band-aids, or make a leather finger stall, if desired, to aid this problem. SEWING A MITER JOINT sed to secure two pieces of leather together where the Thsmetagot senna west bones, Ce, OF ANY SCI projec pols ‘eh leathers join, The leathers, to be joined, muse be beveled at 45° angles, a _ we wil make a single miter joint using two pie For instrvetional purposes We Wil ese cand 4" long -.- oF any length iver, Well ’ eee whatever scraps yOu have: available. Nes. oversriren wien + ) ar epee Begin with overstitch wheel, as shown, one space from the edge. Lay ends . . . to be joined . .. together, as shown, Mark both ends exactly the same. if wheel marks ‘come too close to opposite edge, you amy have to adjust" the last two or three marks to equalize the Cut the leather pieces. Gouge » sewing channel spacing. Last mark should not be right-on-the edge. ‘along the edge of each piece . .. that is to be joined. Page 7, step “C', shows correct distance from edge for channel ey ses \ ‘BeveLeD ebeE yy CEMENT BEVELED EDGES Turn feathers flesh side up and bevel a th the Freeh ee too Bae Ta aurate teoeene Apply nels, a5 shown, Place meoth, fy try to hold edger ata "angie * 001 ft surface purpose cement (strong bondind) to both beveled edges, Allow to “yet” some ‘Minutes to insure adhesion. SEWING A MITER JOINT— Continued OTHER FORMS, uD ins "ro ING ARE BROWN On PAGES 27-20 30-35 suirenine. HORSE OmWS Stand pieces on edge, on bench, and Sud pieces, on ene an Fit a block of wood inside the miter joint... and el schere the beveled eles: Pres th the profect inte atching hore, ag ebove, The block of : wood wil ingure e square corner, and old ithe 0. t up sce ‘Meron reves ns wereucreD ae onny i Sew to end... . and backstiteh two holes. Cut @® off threads. Stab first hole, upwards, at a 45° angle. The aw! blade should come out in the opposite channel . at ‘the wheel mark. You may have to back the awl off 0 few times Uniil you get the correct angle. With a little practice you will get the “feel”... and will exit in ‘the opposite wheel mark: with regular Push one needle through the hole and pull thread to center, Sewing procedures are the same as steps | through 28 (pages 9 through 16). Always ‘push the needle through the hole from the. left hand first. The only difference here ... you are sewing at an angle ". - Father than straight across, While leather is still clamped in jaws. tap stitches with hammer, SEWING A MITER JOINT — Continued No STITEHING SHOULD Snow ON INSIDE, e0ce ueveter, \\ Use a Farge edge beveler \ fedge the joint as. sh x Moisten and burnish wi \ loth or bone folder, Run cverstitch wheel back over stitches. Photo above shows completed miter joint, STARTING WITH A KNOTTED THREAD When beginning with a knotted thread... start i Pull knot d tig Sonn bite See nmuetons MG" Sub fa hol fn poge 19, sepe aa le making thisine ae Feqular manner?" °U '9 the MAKING LEATHER BOXES WITH make “v" coves a FULL V2 DEPTH oF CEATHER THICKNESS 4 ee OF “V"GOUGED LeaTHER. from 6 02. to 12 oz. folds. Study sketch above before beginni EVEL ALL CORNER oors ar 45° ANGLE \ sews Gouge sewing channels on arain side. Mark: with over- stitch wheel. Turn to flesh side, bevel corners (to be sewn) at 45° angle . .. see page 22, Moisten the folds, fold and tap with hammer to insure square folds. Apply glue to beveled edges A Tid can be made for the box in the same ‘manner. Bear in mind . . . it will have to be made larger to fit over the outside edge of the box. EDGE AND BURNISH ALL OUTSIDE eDsES A simple leather box can be made as shown above, Leather thickness can be - depending on the size of the box, ri etc. Use a carpenter's square to lay out dimensions. Make “V” gouges for To hinge the i . leather with 2 sewing channel on each edge. Burnish the ‘edges. Glue one edge to lid. MITERED JOINTS BEFORE ASSEMBLY on STRAIGHT eDGE AS A cUIDE,

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