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Critical success factors for international fashion retailers entering foreign


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Bruno Završnik Critical Success Factors for International
Faculty of Economics and Business, Maribor
Razlagova 20, 2000 Maribor, Slovenia
Fashion Retailers Entering Foreign Markets
E-mail: bruno.zavrsnik@uni-mb.si
Abstract
Within Europe there are a variety of fashion-clothing retailers, ranging from local clothing
and department stores to internationally active fashion retail chains. When initiating an
internationalisation strategy, fashion retailers should reflect upon the congruence of their
product ranges and brand images within the context of the prevalent cultural and trading
conditions of foreign markets. This paper examines two recognized multinational fashion
companies: the Swedish company H&M and the Spanish company Inditex. It compares
them to the Slovenian retailing company Mercator - a fashion house, which is already
entering the markets in South Eastern Europe. This analysis has established that there
are some differences in the internationalisation process between fashion retailers and
production companies.

Key words: international fashion retailer, fashion, retailing, entry marketing strategy,
fashion marketing, retail brand.

n Introduction n Where do retailers internationalise? personnel skills irrespective of their size,


n Why do retailers internationalise? retail format and product segment. Some
The emergence of global fashion has n How do retailers internationalise? have accommodated fashion companies
transformed the way fashion is perceived n When does internationalisation occur? into their categorisation of international
in the contemporary world [1]. Within retailer, but few have classified them as a
Europe internationalisation of retailers is From a commercial perspective, the last unique entity. Moore et al. [9] classified
ever increasing. Not many years ago one four questions are especially relevant. For international fashion retailers as product
could find stores like Gap, Gucci, Arma- the purposes of literature review, all six specialists (narrow product range, clearly
ni, and Benetton in only a few countries questions are considered in the context of defined customer base), designer retailers
fashion retailers, before the last four are (internationally recognized brand, exclu-
Currently, walking through cities and used to construct a model for commercial sive positioning), general merchandise
villages across Europe one finds oneself application in the conclusion. retailers (mix of fashion and non-fashion
gazing at similar retail outlets no matter goods, large format stores) or general
where you are. One of the reasons for the Diverse definitions of RI are often com- fashion retailers (broad range of prod-
fast internationalisation of retailers may promised of poorly explained terminolo- ucts, accessible pricing). These retailers
be that European unification has facili- gies and the inappropriate application of are positioned in international markets
taed the conduct of business in various manufacturing terms to a service enter- by virtue of marketing effort and product
countries in Europe. Nevertheless, it is prise. Focusing on specific features of RI, offering, which contributes to their over-
surprising to observe these relatively international retailing is defined as hav- all brand appeal [10].
quick developments in spite of the con- ing “visible” and “invisible” dimensions.
tinued diversity of local culture [2, 3]. The “invisible” aspects of RI are defined Management attitudes can decide where
as being the international sourcing of retailers expand [11]. The concept of psy-
Many authors’ used traditional business products and services and the cross-bor- chic distance, the degree of uncertainty a
management literature to classify some der transfer of management expertise in firm has about foreign markets, has been
critical success factors (CSFs) relating the form of managerial policies or techni- cited as critical in deciding the direction
to international retail businesses [4]. This cal skills. In these terms, fashion retail- of a retailer’s international expansion.
deficiency is addressed by identifying the ers are largely “invisible” international However, research has shown that some
CSFs applicable to international fashion retailers, manufacturing abroad and retailers overcome psychological barri-
retailers and considering how they are transferring management skills without ers thanks to their particularly desirable
distinguishable from those pertinent to necessarily operating stores. Marketing products and brands. These retailers,
other international retailers. With these skill transfer in the development of in- usually operating in luxury or special-
in mind, ways in which an international ternationally appealing brands is cited as ist markets, could use product, lifestyle,
fashion retailer may manipulate its critical in the fashion market [6 - 8]. image and niche differentials in their
marketing mix in response to CSFs are marketing to overcome psychic barriers
suggested. Authors have attempted to classify in- [12]. Several authors have noted that this
ternational retailers according to their is the case for fashion retailers operating
This is illustrated with a model highlight- size, retail format and market strategy. distinctive brands and offering desirable
ing the contrasting strategies employed However, research has shown that the products [13, 14].
by two such companies. defining features of international retailers
are not in their tangible characteristics; The desire to benefit from the exposure
Akehurst and Alexander [5] reviewed rather they are in their philosophical of exclusive brands to foreign markets
retail internationalisation (RI) literature attitudes and competencies, which deter- was the primary motive for RI. They
and identified six emergent themes: mine physical dimensions. Case studies have compiled a list of push and pull
n What is the internationalisation of have shown that successful international factors suggesting that retailers with a
retailing? retailers share common management att- distinctive retail offer or format would
n Who are the international retailers? itudes, decision-making frameworks and be more likely to pro-actively pursue for-

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2007, Vol. 15, No. 4 (63) 13
eign opportunities. Often these retailers distinctive products in unique retail January 31, 2006, the group owned 2,692
may operate in specialised product areas environments. There has been little in- stores in 62 countries including Europe,
or possess especially desirable brands. vestigation into the effect of corporate America, the Asia-Pacific region, the
structure, company culture and manage- Middle East and North Africa [20].
Luxury retailers pro-actively expand ment leadership with regard to fashion
abroad to derive benefit from exclusive internationalisation [18]. This increased activity resulted in a
brands or innovative products and spec- 5% sale increase in comparable stores
ify “the brand” as being a key motivator The issue of foreign market withdrawal (stores that have been open for more
for fashion internationalisation, which is and divestment has not been adequately than two years) and a 22% selling area
attractive to retailers operating in niche covered. Foreign markets are often tol- increase. Thus its gross returns rose by
markets such as high-end accessories or erated by international retailers while 56.2% as compared with the previous
children’s clothing [15]. domestic markets are buoyant, but tend year’s 55.4%. With an overall selling
to withdraw from foreign markets when area increase of more than 250,000 m in
RI is a planned and incremental proc- facing difficult domestic circumstances. 2005 and a total of 448 new stores (the
ess controlled by a retailer’s corporate International fashion retailer divestment highest figure in the company’s history),
ambition and experience. However, the is often prompted by a breakdown in each of Inditex’s eight formats have in-
diversity of the industry has allowed franchise relationships or domestic diff- creased their sales by over 15%, with a
retailers to deviate from the incremental iculties, implying that domestic success particularly high increase in the group’s
path depending on the strength of their sometimes obscures foreign market diff- youngest formats. Thus, Stradivarius and
retail offer, marketing resources and iculties [19]. Oysho saw sales increases of over 40%,
product range. Dawson [16] indicated and Zara Home — which has been in the
the five market entry methods available market for less than three years — went
to foreign retailers: internal expansion, n Comparative analysis up by over 90%. In spite of having in-
merger or takeover, franchise agreement, of international fashion creased its selling area by 82% in 2005,
joint venture or non-controlling interest. retailers Zara Home managed to raise its return on
Each of these has advantages and disad- capital employed to 3%. The global aver-
There exists a great connection between
vantages, is chosen by a retailer on the age return for other formats was 41%. At
trade, economic growth and economic
basis of its corporate confidence, product the end of a year of serious expansion
development. In the terms of trade, there
portfolio and brand image and has conse- focused on the main European markets,
quent set up cost and operational control are ongoing, large and intensive changes
in developed market conditions. The its net margin rose by 40 basis points, at
implications. 11.9% of sales, continuing the previous
most important ones are globalization
and transnationalisation of trade. Big year’s rising trend.
Some retailers pursue high-risk strate-
gies despite little internationalisation multinational companies have already
determined that doing business only in Of the 448 stores opened during the year,
experience, suggesting the use of factors 308 are in international markets. These
such as a strong brand influence market domestic markets means the loss of cer-
tain advantages and that they must spread represent 69% of all openings for the
entry method [17].Fashion retailers may year and are mostly in 44 countries. Of
internationalise in a number of ways, as their activities to other new markets.
these, Inditex stores were opened for the
indicated by the differences between first time in Monaco, Costa Rica, Indo-
the strategies followed by two succ- In the retail trade of fashion distributors,
we are now facing strong competition nesia, the Philippines and Thailand. As a
essful international fashion retailers. result of this expansion, sales in interna-
Some authors have identified a global from western multinationals, which
have already pushed their way into the tional stores rose to 56.9% of the total, as
standardisation approach to internation- compared to the previous year’s 54.5%.
alisation as being critical to the success Slovenian market and are now trying
to win the markets of southeast Europe. All chains increased their sales percent-
of fashion retailers. Success has been
From this perspective, the reasons for age outside Spain, led by Zara’s 68.9%.
attributed to the presentation of alluring
brand image through standardised adver- the internationalisation of retail trade
amongst fashion distributors is obvious. Most of the new stores were in European
tising imagery, retail format and similar
markets, which accounted for up to 82%
products using international advertising
Table 1 presents a comparative analysis of net openings (366 new stores). As a
campaigns.
of three international fashion retailers, result, the group passed the 2,000-store
the Inditex Group, H&M, and Mercator mark in Europe, with 2,309 European
International retailers require adequate
Fashion House. stores as of January 31, 2006.
resources and competitive advantages
and must possess some “differential
The European countries (apart from
firm advantages”, including a dedica- n Inditex Group Spain) with the largest number of open-
tion to developing an attractive brand,
in order to be internationally successful. Inditex is a fashion distribution group ings were Portugal (54), Italy (37, dou-
These advantages could include product, that owns Zara, Kiddy’s Class, Pull and bling the number of stores ), Greece (27),
lifestyle, image and niche differentials, Bear, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradi- France (21), the UK (15), Ireland (11),
illustrated by internationally appealing varius, Oysho and Zara Home. Its con- Germany (10) and Russia (10).
brands and products or innovative retail solidated turnover for 2005 was €6,741
formats facilitating international succ- million, 21% more than in 2004. Its net
ess. A strong brand has been identified profit was €803 million, a 26% increase,
n Hennes & Mauritz
as a factor assisting the international which established it as one of the world’s Hennes & Mauritz (operating as H&M),
expansion of fashion retailers offering largest companies in its sector. As of is a Swedish clothing company, known

14 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2007, Vol. 15, No. 4 (63)
for its inexpensive and fashionable cloth- 2. Buying in large volumes. turnover has decreased gradually, while
ing [21]. 3. Having a broad, in-depth knowledge the other markets have been growing and
of design, fashion and textiles. new countries have been added.
H&M’s business concept is to offer fash- 4. Buying the right products from the
ion and quality at the best price. H&M’s right market. H&M does not own any stores. It leases
growth target is to increase the number 5. Being cost-conscious at every stage. store premises. In this way it does not tie
of stores by 10–15% per year but also 6. Having efficient distribution. up capital and can freely pursue its busi-
to increase sales at existing stores. The ness concept.
availability of attractive business loca- It has been a very eventful year during
tions is the major deciding factor in its which H&M attracted a great deal of att- Before establishing stores in a new mar-
rate of expansion. The goal is to grow at ention from media around the world. ket, H&M conducts a thorough analysis
a controlled pace and maintain profitabil- of such factors as demographics, employ-
ity. In 2005, 145 stores were opened and The highlight of the spring was H&M’s ment, purchasing power and purchasing
20 were closed, increasing the net store big fashion show in New York, where the behaviour.
count by almost 12%. world’s fashion elite gathered in Central
Park to get a glimpse of H&M’s autumn
H&M is an expansive and financially collections. n Mercator – Fashion House
strong company. The strategy is to grow
whilst maintaining good profitability and H&M is continuing to grow. Over the past Mercator is one of the largest and most
control. In the past five years H&M has five years, it has increased the number of successful retail chains in South Eastern
increased turnover by 100% while the stores by almost 75%, increased turnover Europe. It is the leading retail chain in
number of stores has increased by 75% by 100% and increased net profit after tax Slovenia and is gaining both reputation
and earnings per share by 262%. This ex- by 262%. At the end of the financial year, and market share in Croatia, Bosnia
pansion has been entirely self-financed. it had almost 1,200 stores in 22 countries and Herzegovina, Serbia and Montene-
in Europe and North America and more gro. In 2005, Mercator also entered
In order to offer the latest fashions, than 50,000 co-workers around the the Macedonian market by establish-
H&M has its own design and buying world. Its primary expansion markets ing a company and purchasing landed
department that creates collections. The are Germany, the United States, the U.K., property. As markets of South Eastern
products are of good quality - checks are Poland, Spain, France, Italy and Canada. Europe are characterized by fast growth,
carried out frequently. In Germany, H&M’s biggest market, the company is focused on constructing
23 new stores had opened to make a larger shopping centres in capitals and
They achieve the best price by: total of 288 at the end of the financial regional centres with the most potential
1. Few middlemen. year. Germany’s portion of the Group’s with regard to population and purchasing

Table 1. Comparative analysis of three international fashion retailers.

Success factors of international Mercator - Fashion House H&M Inditex - Zara


fashion retailers
Emphasis on EU markets and North
Target foreign market selection South Eastern Europe markets Global markets
America
Direct entery by opening company
Direct entry by opening store with
Enter marketing strategy Direct entry by opening own stores managed stores and franchised
franchise agreement stores
Timing of entry depends on the Start with a small number of stores
Entering a new market depended
Timing entry into the new market political and economical stability of to explore the possibilities of a
on the results of market research selected countries specific country
The main goals are recognition of Collaboration with prominent
Recognition of the company and By opening new international
the name of the company and its fashion designers (Karl Lagerfeld,
brands stores with Inditex sales format
retail brands Stella McCartney)
Analyze local markets and Monitor and analyse local retailer Monitoring the actions of their local Monitoring the actions of their local
competitor competitors competitors competitors
From neighbouring countries using Each format is carried out through
Marketing support in a global From the Mercator group the current H&M wholly-owned chains of stores managed directly
market subsidiary model by? companies
An H&M store is on most prominent
The location selection In large shopping centers In the centres of cities
shopping streets
Assortment depending on factors Close attention paid to continuous
such as location, size of store and
Depending on the customer’s data on customer needs and wants,
customer flow in the area. A broad
Diversity of selling assortment purchasing power and these are answered with clear
and varied range of fashions for the market segmentation and product
whole family. differentiation.
Employee Local sales staff Local sales staff Local sales staff
H&M has attempted to differentiate
Product prices are the same in the Zara uses a market-oriented target
Price policy its brand from competitors through
Slovenian market pricing system in all markets
a discounting position.
Various sales promotion tools
Sales promotion (coupons, free products, in-store Mostly shopping discounts Mostly shopping discounts
demos, etc.)
Corporate management is based at
Corporate management is based H&M’s head office in Stockholm.
Organization and control business Corporate management is based at
at Mercator Group’s head office in Fifteen regional country offices
activity Inditex head office in A Coruńa.
Ljubljana are responsible for the various
departments in each sales country.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2007, Vol. 15, No. 4 (63) 15
power. Ultimately, Mercator wishes to Gap), which have successfully entered fashion retailers have to take into care-
gain a significant market share in every the Slovenian market. The main objec- ful consideration the assortment, brand
market as soon as possible, thus becom- tives of the multinationals are to achieve range and the customer's needs and ex-
ing one of the five leading retailers in the economy of scale, globalisation of trade, pectations. The fashion industry is quite
market program [22]. presence in the most important world specific in terms of image and fashion,
markets, increased brand recognition the customer will only follow the brand
The aim of Mercator’s textile chain and to satisfy the consumer with lowest if it will satisfy his or her needs and
Fashion House is also to introduce possible costs (regarding articles whose wishes. This can be turned into a com-
the format of Fashion Avenue onto the production is located in the less-devel- petitive advantage for the fashion retailer
Slovenian market. Its offer includes re- oped countries). and increase its chances of strengthen its
nowned trademark clothing at medium position in a foreign market.
and high price ranges. These formats will The fact that Slovenia is a very small
be developed in larger towns in all mar- market is suggestive of one of the ob- The most important advantage of a retail-
kets and larger Mercator Centres. Fashion jectives of the Mercator- Fashion House ing company over a production company
House also wishes to present a new sales company - to internationalise its activi- is the capability for quick response to
format to the market – a shop for men ties in the new markets. This objective of changing market conditions. A retailing
with a full range of of men's clothing, the company follows the vision and strat- company must be capable of adapting its
footwear and fashion accessories. It has egy of its owner, Mercator, which has al- assortment in the shortest time possible.
been established that this area actually ready selected new markets to enter and This is shown in the case of Zara, with its
represents a market niche. In the more has also already entered into them. So the approach of complementing the assort-
price-sensitive environment of market key problem of Mercator-Fashion House ments in its stores twice a week.
segments with lower purchasing power is to shape distribution for the most opti-
in general, Modiana outlet shops will be mal entry mode into selected markets of Based on analysis of two models of in-
developed. At these outlets, the clothing South Eastern Europe. ternationalisation - H&M and Zara - this
of past seasons will be sold at favourable research concludes that the Slovene retail
prices. Mercator - Fashion House’s vi- fashion distributing company Mercator-
sion is to remain the leading trading com- n Conclusion Fashion House will have to utilize its ad-
pany of textile products in Slovenia and vantages in the markets of South Eastern
The most significant factor when plann-
to become an important textile merchant Europe before the entrance of other com-
ing to enter into international markets
in the markets where Mercator has been petitors. It must also develop a clear and
is the selection of an appropriate entry
widening its retail network. Mercator well-known image in those markets. The
mode. This reduces the level of risk and
also hopes to become a recognized trader company should also consider cultivat-
affects the company’s presence in interna-
in a segment of drugstores and perfum- ing connections with acknowledged local
tional trade. This analysis has established
eries; therefore it plans to take over the retailers in order to establish its presence
that fashion retailers most frequently
chain ‘Beautique’ and bring it under in these markets (as also displayed in the
choose between direct investments or
Fashion House’s umbrella in 2006. case of Zara). Doing so will enable the
franchising. The latter means establish-
ing a relationship with an acknowledged company to extend more quickly into
The selection of foreign markets, in the
local partner in order to reduce the degree these markets and encourage its future
case of Mercator- Fashion House, is
of risk when entering into a new market. extension to neighbouring countries.
closely related to the future development
of Mercator. The main goal of Mercator It can also provide faster extension in the
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7th International Conference


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X-Ray Investigations of Polymer Structure


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13. Malinowska-Olszowy M.; Brand Strategy We take pleasure in inviting you to participate in the Seventh International Conference
in the Clothing and Textile Market. Fibres on the X-ray investigation of polymer structure. The XIPS 2007 conference provides
& Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 13,
No. 1 (2005) pp.8-12. a forum for discussions related to the present state of methods and achievements in
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is held under the patronage of the Secretary of State of the Ministry of Science and
porary Issues, Butterworth-Heinemann, Higher Education, Professor Stefan Jurga.
Oxford, 2001 pp. 48-65.
15. Portolese Dias L.; Generational buy- Professor Jarosław Janicki Ph.D., D.Sc. – Chairman
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Fashion Marketing and Management,
Vol.7 No. 1; 2003.
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retailing operations, Journal of Marke-
ting Management, Vol. 10, No. 4 (1994) n Small-angle scattering technique in the studies of polymer structure
pp. 267-82.
17. Guy C.; Internationalisation of large- n Studies of soft condensed and porous materials by means of the SAXS
format retailers and leisure providers in method
western Europe: planning and property n Development of methods and techniques in the X-ray studies of
impacts, International Journal of Retail &
Distribution Management, Vol. 29, No. 10,
polymers
(2001) pp. 452-461. n Software and data bases for polymer structure investigations
18. M. Moore and A. Fairhurst., Marketing ca- n Analysis of SAXS data and modelling of material structure
pabilities and firm performance in fashion
n Morphology and thermal behaviour of polymer materials
retailing, Journal of Fashion Marketing
and Management; Vol. 7 Issue 4; 2003.
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international context, in Bruce, M., Moore,
C. and Birtwistle, G. (Eds), International For more information please contact:
Retail Marketing; A Case Study Appro-
ach, Elsevier Butterworth Heinemann, University of Bielsko–Biała,
Oxford, 2004 pp. 30-37. Institute of Textile Engineering and Polymer Materials
20. http://www.inditex.com/en Willowa 2, 43-309 Bielsko–Biała, Poland
21. http://www.hm.com/ tel.(+48 33) 82 79 114, fax.(+48 33) 82 79 100
22. http://www.mercator.si/podjetje/company/ Jarosław Janicki – Chairman, e–mail: jjanicki@ath.bielsko.pl
business_data_/activities Stanisław Rabiej – Secretary , e-mail: stanislaw.rabiej@ath.bielsko.pl
www.xips2007.ath.bielsko.pl e-mail: xips2007@ath.bielsko.pl

Received 20.12.2006 Reviewed 26.04.2007

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2007, Vol. 15, No. 4 (63) 17

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