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Learn Macrame PDF
Learn Macrame PDF
To learn Macrame, you must be able to tie a variety of knots. You can use scrap pieces of
cord and practice each of the decorative knots individually. You can also choose a project
from the many free patterns in this site, and learn Macrame while you are making something.
As you become more and more familiar with how the knots are combined to form artistic
designs, you can create your own unique projects, without relying on patterns.
The Basic knots found in most Macrame patterns are listed below. Just click on the images of
the decorative knots you want to learn. The step-by-step process, with photos, will show up.
As you learn Macrame, practice tying ALL the basic knots listed, so you understand the
patterns in the other sections.
To learn Macrame properly, I recommend that ALL beginners practice each of the
knots, patterns, or designs at least twice, before making any project.
I've listed some unusual knots as well. Vintage Macrame, as I like to call it, is a real interest
of mine. When I first began to learn Macrame, I didn't know about some of these decorative
knots. Those featured in the early days of this craft are truly unique, and you don't find them
in more modern Macrame books. These decorative knots are indicated by a + symbol.
Chinese Macrame uses a variety of symbolic knots. Some have been around for over 2000
years. Entire families would work on a variety of combinations to form new combination
knots. These techniques are quite challenging to master. But if you follow the step-by-step
process for each of the individual Chinese knots, you will progress in skill and be able to
combine them into your own works of art.
In addition, there are instructions for Celtic Knots. These highly artistic, interwoven designs
are not very well known. They are beautiful and perfect for making handcrafted jewelry and
fashion acessories.
Several of the knots I have listed here in Learn Macrame
are to be found in "Decorative Fusion Knots" , written by
JD Lenzen.
Macrame Supplies
I recommend you obtain the following Macrame supplies and crafting tools. It’s a good idea to have
them readily available when you start any Macrame craft project. Many supermarkets and hardware
stores carry arts and crafts supplies, if you don’t already have these items at home.
You will need a table or other work surface. If you plan to work on your project away from
home, a clipboard works well. Keep in mind that you may not complete your project in one
day. Try to put all your supplies in some kind of organizer, if you can. (The handcrafted
organizer shown above can be made to order. If you would like to purchase one, Contact Me.)
Safety Tip: Make sure your work surface is clean and uncluttered. Keep food, drinks, and
cigarettes away from the cords. Keep in mind the fact that the cords used in Macrame can
injure pets and young children if they get tangled in them.
Macrame cord materials have specific qualities you need to become familiar with. It is vitally
important that you choose the right type for your project. For example, making a hammock requires
strong, sturdy materials. Clothing, on the other hand, needs a softer type of cord. Nowadays, there
are many kinds of materials available, including yarn, ribbon, and lace.
Click on the images, and larger images will come up in a new window, so you can see
details better.
The Stiffness refers to how flexible the material is. Leather, for example, can be very stiff,
depending on the thickness. I like to use thin strands (0.5mm) of round leather to make
bracelets, since it is flexible.
As you can see in this Celtic Circle Earring, leather maintains the shape of the knots very
well. If it's over 3mm thick, it's hard to tie the knots, though.
On the other hand, Cotton cord is usually very soft and flexible. It's
great for Macrame projects, especially clothing. It’s also inexpensive and easy to obtain. You can
often find it sold as Crochet Cord. This Flower Bracelet was made with 2mm Cotton material.
The term Composition tells you what fibers the cord materials are made
from. Certain plants, for example, result in such materials as Hemp, Jute, and Flax Linen. They are
what is called "Natural Fibers". Leather is made from animal hide, and nylon is a very popular
synthetic fiber (man-made). Further down on this page is more information about specific types of
Strength is especially important if making furniture or something that will hold weight. This
is Jute, a very rough textured cord, and is particularly good for outdoor furniture because of
how strong it is.
Leather, Flax, and Polypropylene cord are also very strong materials.
The Twist, or style, refers to whether the individual strands that make up the cord were
twisted or braided in the manufacturing process.
Braided Macrame cord will unravel less easily than twisted cord. The image shows a close-
up of both types.
Note: You should ALWAYS treat the ends of the cords, prior to beginning a Macrame project, so
they don't unravel easily. For more information for this important issue, see Cord Preparation.
used in Macrame.
The Diameter (Width) is the thickness of the Macrame cord; usually indicated in
millimeters. Silk, Nylon, and even round Leather can be found less than 2mm thick. Keep in
mind that the wider materials (>4mm) require larger beads, buttons, or other decorations.
This image shows a Constrictor knot made with 6mm diameter Polypropylene cord.
Trivia: The term Micro-Macrame is used when a handcrafted item is made using cord material less
The Amount refers to how much Macrame cord you need for the entire project. Some
materials come in large rolls of 100 yards or more. This Opelon Floss comes on cards, which
usually contain less than 10 yards of material.
Most Macrame patterns will tell you the exact lengths you need to cut each of the cords. But
it's always a good idea to check the math to make sure the pattern is accurate. If you are
creating your own designs without a written pattern, the following information will help you.
Here is a simple way to determine how long each Macrame cord should be:
Step 3: Before you cut the cords, make sure you are
aware of whether there are button knots or picots
present. These decorations requre more Macrame
cord.
It's far better to cut too much Macrame cord, than to run out, as you are making your project!
Step 2: Determining the Number of Cords to Cut
First figure out the size, in inches, of the widest point. For the ornament shown above, that
would be the area at the bottom.
Next, determine the size cord you are using. Now decide if the cords are to be folded during
any point in the pattern. Use this formula:
Designs that ask you to cover a ring will usually require the cords to be folded, and the width is
based on the size of the ring. So use this formula instead:
To figure out what you need for the entire project, follow this formula:
Make sure you do this for each of the different sizes you cut. Add them all up, and you will
have the total necessary for the entire project.
Cord Preparation
Cord preparation is a vital topic you need to know, since you will use these techniques often. Before
I learned how to treat the strands so they didn’t unravel, messy frayed ends frustrated me. Twisted
cord, in particular, came apart every time I used it. Then I learned a few simple techniques that
taught me how to prevent the problem. After you cut all your cords to the proper length, use any of
the following techniques.
Wax Preparation
My personal favorite is using wax to coat the ends of the cords. Obtain
a jar candle, preferably white or the same color as the cords. Light the candle and let the wax melt
for a while. Blow the candle out. Dip the ends of the Macrame cords in the liquid wax. Tip: I
usually bundle a group of cords, then dip them all together. Hold them above the jar to let the excess
wax drip off. Allow the cords to cool. If they stick together, pull them apart gently.
Beeswax is also a good product to use for cord
preparation, especially with slender cord for jewelry. You
just rub the end with the block of wax. It helps if you
warm it in your hands first.
Glue Preparation
Another way to prepare cords is to apply glue to the ends. You can use
liquid puzzle glue, or household glue diluted with water. Put some in a bowl, and dip the ends. Glue
doesn’t dry as fast as wax, so you need to hang the cords over something while they dry.
Someone told me they prefer to use nail polish for cord preparation. I’ve never tried this myself, but
I bet it works just as well as glue. You can dip the ends, or lay the cords on a work surface and paint
the nail polish on them.
Tape Preparation
Knot Preparation
Another easy method to prepare cords is to tie a knot at the end. I do this often, since I can
simply cut off the knot in the final steps. The best knots to use are the ones easy to tie, like
this Barrel knot.
In Finishing Techniques you will learn specific decorative knots and procedures used to
produce a neat appearance in the final steps of Macrame projects. The techniques described
are also used to prevent the ends of cords from unraveling.
I refer to them in the free patterns in this site, and you’ll find them in most Macrame books, as
well.
Finishing Knots
Tip: The glue I prefer to use is the regular household type that dries clear. Dilute it with water and
apply it to the final knots with a small paintbrush. You can also use clear nail polish and fabric glue.
Weaving Technique
You can also weave the ends into the body of the design. This only works if the knots are
lying close together. If the ends are long, or if they are frayed or unraveling, you need to trim
them first.
Then apply glue to the ends and let it dry. Next, use needle nose pliers to weave each end
between the knots that make up the body of the Macrame pattern.
Here are some important tips for successfully making appealing Fringe: Tip 1: Always trim the
cords so the ends are even. If the pattern does not require you to unravel the cords, you will need to
apply glue or knots to the ends.
Tip 3: For Beaded Fringe, apply a small bead to each end. Then tie an Overhand or Barrel knot. You
can direct the end back through the bead, or just apply glue to the knot and cut off the excess. For
more details about using this technique in your Macrame projects, see Making Fringe.
Decorative Fasteners
Decorative fasteners are essential if you are planning to make Micro-Macrame Jewelry, or
things like belts and purses. A bracelet, for example, needs some type of closure, as does a
belt.
Some fasteners can be purchased in craft supply stores, and are sometimes called findings. Or
you can use buttons, beads, and specific knots to form clasps.
Purse handles, belt buckles and fasteners for larger items can be purchased. But if you prefer,
you can make many types of decorative fasteners yourself.
You can click on the images and a large picture will come up in a new window.
Button Fasteners
Any type of large round knot will do, but the Celtic Button
Knot and the Chinese Button are the best.
Earring Fasteners
You will need to purchase the hooks for earrings. I know
of no handmade alternatives. Most stores that carry
beads will carry earring hooks and hoops, and they are
usually not all that expensive.
Purse Handles
Belt Buckles
Macrame Beads
Macrame beads come in all shapes and sizes, and are very common, particularly in jewelry.
But many are not suitable, due to the fact they have small openings in them. In some patterns,
the holes in the beads need to be large enough for at least two strands to pass through. For
example, if the cord is 4mm thick, the opening would need to be 8mm in diameter, which is a
pretty large bead.
Types of Beads
I will now discuss the various types of Beads in terms of suitability for Macrame projects.
Cloisonne Beads are metal, and usually have a colorful design. They
are very popular, and well known for their quality. They have an "Oriental" feel and come in a
variety of shapes and sizes. The holes are usually small, but can be enlarged somewhat.
Glass Beads are very attractive, and on occasion you can find them
with holes large enough for 2mm cords to pass through. You might be better off choosing
metal or wood for your Macrame beads, since glass beads with holes large enough for 4mm or
6mm cords are very hard to find. Pandora Style Glass Beads
have become very popular. They have a silver or gold lining inside the hole. They usually
have 4mm to 5mm size holes, so are a great choice to use as Macrame Beads.
Plastic Beads are likely to have big enough holes for 2mm to 4mm
cords. They are easy to obtain, and are inexpensive compared to other beads. Metallized
Beads are plastic, but have a metal coating, and are often quite unique.
Clay Beads have great details and many are shaped like three-
dimensional objects, like this flower. The holes are usually small, but can be enlarged if
and often have holes large enough for 2mm cords. Ceramic
Beads are very sophisticated and highly detailed. These Macrame beads come in many unique
shapes and designs, and are great for jewelry and clothing projects requiring the use of 2mm
to 4mm cord. Mood Beads are very unique in that they are
made of a material that changes color. Your body heat will cause these interesting beads to
change between several colors. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but most have
holes suitable for 2mm or finer cords. Shell and Bone Beads
usually have small holes, and are made from natural materials. They come in few colors,
however. Shell beads are also easily damaged. I’ve tried to enlarge the holes in them with
very little success. Seeds come from a variety of plants, and are
often used to make beads. This is a Rudraksha seed, and like wood Macrame beads, the hole
Wood Beads are very suited to Macrame, and many designs have large holes. They come in
several colors and shapes. Some are carved, and quite interesting.
Wood beads are among the best Macrame Beads available, because the holes can be enlarged
if necessary.
Buttons can be used instead of Macrame beads. Beaded buttons, in particular, are a favorite
of mine. I use them for clasps, as pendants, and as a substitute for beads.
Ask your mother or grandmother if she has a stash of them somewhere. You’ll be amazed at
what you will find in her "button box".
Basic & Vintage Macrame Knots
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Square Knot
Frame
Unique Vintage
Diamonds Diamonds
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Square Knot
Description: The Square Knot (SK) is the most commonly used decorative knot in
Macrame. It is heavily used in fishing, boating, and other activities as well. In Macrame
patterns, however, you usually tie them with more than two cords. They are used primarily in
the body of patterns, but can be used in the mounting or finishing process as well.
Variations: The Right Facing, Mirror knot is also described below. I've also included
instructions for a pattern called the Switch Knot.
Step 1: To practice this important basic knot, mount 2 cords to a ring or dowel so you end up
with 4 strands. The blue strands in the images are the working cords, and the purple ones are
fillers. Mentally number the cords 1 - 4, moving left to right.
Step 2: Use the left strand (#1) and curve it over both filler cords, which are cords 2 and 3.
Pass it under the right working cord (#4).
Step 3: Direct the right strand (#4) towards the left. Go under
the fillers, and out through the space on the left hand side of the knot. The space is between
cords 1 and 2.
Step 4: You just completed the first half of the Square Knot, which is sometimes called a
"Half Knot". Now you need to tie the second half, which is opposite of the instructions
above.
Note how the two working cords have switched places. So #4 is on the left, and #1 is on
the right.
I use my own term to describe this technique, which is the mirror image of the knot
described above. Other names I've seen used are Right SK and Reverse SK. Reversing the
direction is important when you want both edges of a design to be symmetrical. Just
remember that the head of the Square Knot will face the direction of the first working cord
you use. In this case, you start with the cord on the far right, and the head will therefore face
right when you are finished. Step 1: Using 4 strands of material,
curve the right working cord over both fillers. Bring the left strand over it, under the fillers,
Step 2: Bring the left strand over the right one, under the fillers, and through the space on the
right side.
Step 4: Bring the right working cord over the left one,
under the fillers, and through the space on the left
side.
They will now be used as the fillers for the next knot.
Cords 2 and 3 will be used to tie the SK.
Repeat this process over and over to make the rest of this
Square Knot design.
Picot Designs
Description: Several Picot Designs can be made by Square Knots and the Spiral Stitch. Picots
are simply loops along the edges of sennits. They can be small or large, depending on the
technique.
On this page are three variations that you will come across, particularly in patterns written in
the 1970's. To see an actual pattern where picots are used, go to the Macrame Christmas
Tree.
Tie the first half of the SK again, just below the first
one. These are called Half Knots.
Description: Alternating Square Knots (ASK) create a net-like pattern commonly seen in
Macrame. All you are essentially doing is tying horizontal rows of Square knots. In every
other row you alternate the cords used to tie the knots.
This is one of the most important techniques you will need to progress in Macrame, so
practice this several times.
Be sure you know how to tie single Square Knots before you get started.
Step 1: To practice, obtain 4 cords, and either mount them to another cord or just fold them in
half. Secure them to your work surface.
In an actual Macrame pattern, Alternating Square Knots are tied in rows, and usually require
you to tie more knots than what is shown above. But the process is the same: Alternate the
strands used to make the knots in ever other row.
Creating Symmetry
Note that in the image at the top of the page, all the knots are tied in the same direction, so the
edges are slightly different. Many Macrame patterns require you to form an identical design
on both edges, which is called "symmetry".
You simply reverse the process of making half of the Square knots. I call these reversed ones
Mirror Square Knots. Some books name them Right SK, or Reverse SK. To form the
design you simply tie regular, left facing SK on one half, and the Mirror SK on the other half.
Double ASK
This pattern creates more space within the overall design. If you want both edges to be the
same, the knots on the left should be tied so the heads face left. The knots on the right should
be reversed, so they face right.
ASK Netting
Sometimes you want a large amount of
space between the rows to make
"netting".
Alternating V Patterns
In general, dropping two or more cords, as you tie each new row of knots, will create
a V Pattern. But there are times when a Macrame project requires that Square knots
surround the V shape, or that the V design stands alone. Some projects call for the V
pattern to be inverted. The six charts below will help you master this important
Macrame technique.
All the Square Knots in the four patterns below are made with 2 fillers, and 2
working cords. It’s a good idea to mount the cords to something first. If you prefer,
fold the cut cords in half and secure them to a table with tape.
Click on the small images to see larger pictures that will come up in a new
window.
Standard ASK V Pattern
Cut 8 cords, folding them in half, so you have a total of 16 strands to work with. This
is the most common of the four variations.
You’ll need 8 cords folded in half or mounted, as above. This pattern will create a V
Pattern that is inverted, or upside down.
This Alternating V Pattern resembles a pair of wings. You’ll need 10 cords folded or
mounted, so you have 20 strands to work with. Organize the cords into 5 groups of 4
strands.
Row 1 Row 2
Row 3 Row 4
Isolated V Pattern
On occasion you will come across a pattern that requires a V design stand alone
without other knots around it. This is called an Isolated V pattern, and is slightly
different from the others listed above.
To practice, obtain 10 cords and fold them in half or mount them to something, so
you end up with 20 strands to work with.
Row 1 Row 2
Row 3 Row 4
Inverted Isolated V Pattern
This Alternating V Pattern is the inverted variation of the one above. It could also be
called an Empty V Pattern because there are no other knots within or around the V
shape.
Row 1 Row 2
Row 3 Row 4
Snowflake Design
Description: The Snowflake Design is made with Square knots that form a circular shape. So
it is sometimes referred to as the Circle knot. It's considered a vintage technique, and is rarely
seen in modern Macrame patterns. The best time to use it is when you need a decoration that
stands alone. For this reason, it's used in plant hangers as well as items like guitar straps and
belts.
Click on the icons to see larger images, which will come up in a new window.
Step 1: To begin practing this unique knot design, cut 6 cords, each at least 40 inches long.
Fold them in half and pin them to your project board. Mentally number the strands 1 thru 12.
Step 2: Use cords 3 thru 6 to make a Square Knot. Do
the same with cords 7 thru 10. These SK should be
made with 2 working cords and 2 fillers.
Spiral Stitch
Description: Note that I used the term Spiral Stitch rather than “knot”. This is the name often
used in Vintage Macrame patterns. It's also referred to as the Half Knot Spiral. That’s a
pretty accurate term, since it’s half of a Square Knot tied in a chain.
Step 2: Repeat the Half Knot over and over. Make sure you tie each of the knots exactly the
same way. The cords will twist to form an attractive spiral chain.
Tip: As the knots progress, you may need to help them along by twisting the entire design a
half turn.
Spiral with Direction Change
This is a very interesting variation of the Spiral Stitch. I found it in a book of Vintage
patterns, written in the early 1900's, but not in more modern books, so I don't think it is very
well known.
Step 1: You will need 4 strands of cord material. Tie the first half of the Square Knot (Half
Knot).
You can click on these icons and larger images will come up in a new window.
Step 2: Tie 7 to 10 more Half Knots just below the first. The
To continue the design, simply repeat steps 1 thru 3 as many times as you wish.
Description: The Square Knot Button is most definitely a Vintage knot. I’ve never seen it in
any modern Macrame patterns. These decorative knots were very popular in designs created
in the 1970’s. This particular type of button knot is easy to make, compared to other similar
techniques.
Step 1: To practice this interesting knotting technique, obtain 2 cords. Fold them in half and
pin them to your board, so you end up with 4 strands to work with.
Step 3: Direct the ends up and into the space you left in the last step. Two strands should go
to the right of the fillers cords, and the others on the left. Be careful not to cross the strands.
Note: Some instructions tell you to bring only the filler cords into the space to make the knot.
You can tie it that way, certainly, but the button will be more stable if you use all four ends.
A sennit is simply a chain of knots, tied one after the next. How you combine the sennits to
form a design, depends on what you are making. Most patterns will tell you what to do, but if
you want to make your own special projects, spend some time practicing different
combinations.
Click on any of the small icons on this page to see larger images, which show the details
better.
Alternating Sennit
Step 2: The filler cords are 3 and 4 for all the knots.
Tie a left facing regular Square Knot using 2 and 5 as
the working cords.
Step 5: If you were to continue this sennit, you would cross the cords again. The knots
would look like they did in step 2, with each sennit being a different color.
Crossed Bar
Cutting Instructions
Since the Square Knot Frame can have many uses, these cutting instructions are very
flexible. First you need to determine the size you need, by measuring each side of the photo
or piece of art. If making a pendant, add the length and the width and multiply that by 2.
Make sure you write down the measurements, since you will be using them throughout the
pattern.
Example: A 12 x 12 inch frame, which measures 48 inches all the way around, needs 6 cords
cut to at least 240 inches.
Number of
Size of Frame Cord Size Length
Cords
Step 1: Lay the cords on your project board vertically, so you have access to the middle of
them. The strands on the outside of the group are the working cords, and the rest are fillers.
If you were to mentally number the strands, the working cords would be 1 and 4, for a frame
using four strands. If you are using six, the working cords should be strands 1 and 6.
Step 7: The remaining cords will be used to make the loop. The best type is a Wrapped
Loop. If you prefer, you can simply add a metal or plastic ring for hanging. Here are the
instructions to make the Wrapped Loop:
Wrap the right ends around the right half of the loop
several times. Repeat this with the left ends,
wrapping around the opposite side of the loop. Make
sure the wraps don’t overlap and are close together.
Description: The Alternating Half Hitch (AHH) is usually tied to form a chain, also called a
sennit. In the example shown here, one cord holds the knot and the other one creates it. This
produces a chain-like effect. So in some Vintage patterns, the name of this knot is the Chain
Stitch.
It can be used to make a simple bracelet or necklace, as well as a handbag handle. Belts can
also be made with this decorative knot.
There are other similar techniques listed under Half Hitch Patterns. Each of the designs on
that page feature the use of a separate holding cord.
The Double Hitch Bracelet features this knot, if you want to practice it by actually creating
something.
Step 2: To form the alternating pattern, switch the cords. If you started tying with the strand
on the right, you will now use the left to tie the next Half Hitch, or vice-versa.
Be sure to make the Half Hitch the opposite direction, so you pass into the space between the
cords on the left.
Two variations are also described here: One is a HH Spiral with Picots, and the other is called
the Shell Spiral. Both are Vintage techniques, popular in the late 1800's.
Step 1: Obtain 2 lengths of whatever material you are using to practice. Secure them to your
working surface.
Step 2: Choose 1 strand to hold the knots (holding cord). In the images, that's the blue strand.
The other strand will be the working cord. It doesn’t matter which strand you use in this
practice, but the actual pattern may specify. Also, the working cord will usually be longer
than the one holding the knots.
Step 3: Direct the working cord over the filler cord. Then bring it under and through the space
between the holding cord and the one you are working with, on the right. Pull firmly to
tighten. This knot is called a Half Hitch.
Step 4: Repeat this same process over and over. The resulting chain of knots will spiral
naturally, but you can help it along by giving the design a twist now and then.
To see another common type of Spiral design, go to the page for the Spiral Stitch.
Step 3: Continue the sennit by making additional Half Hitches, removing the slack from
around the Overhand Knot so it rests tight against the fillers. Step 4: Repeat steps 1 thru 3
until the sennit is as long as you want it to be.
Shell Spiral
This unusual Half Hitch Spiral technique was found in a book written in the late 1800's. I've
never seen it in more modern books. It forms a beautiful rippling chain of knots that are
suitable for purse handles, bracelets, and more.
You'll need 3 cords to make this unique Spiral design. Mounting them to something is helpful.
Make sure they are at least 36 inches long. It helps if the cords are different colors when you
are practicing.
Step 3: To complete the sennit, repeat steps 1 and 2 several more times.
Basket Stitch
Description: I found the Basket Stitch in a book written in the early 1900's. So I consider this
a Vintage Knot. In another source, this same technique was listed as a variation of the
Alternating Half Hitch. What makes this knot unique is that you use many filler cords to
widen the alternating pattern. You could use this decorative knot in any project that needs a
flat chain of knots, such as a belt.
Click on the icons and larger pictures will come up in a new window.
Step 1: To practice, cut four cords. Mount them to a ring, holding cord, or dowel. If you
prefer, you can fold them in half and pin them to a board.
The outside strands are your working cords (1 and 8), and the remainder are the holding
cords.
Step 2: Use cord 8, which is furthest to the right. Go over, then under ALL the fillers, and
over the segment of cord 8 that's on the right.
Tighten gently, and leave the knot loose and flat, so the holding cords don't bunch up.
Step 3: Next, use cord 1, and tie the next Half Hitch directly
below the first. Finish by bringing the end out over the segment on the left. Step 4:
Alternate back and forth between the two working cords as you continue the chain. When
finished, press and adjust the knots as needed to further flatten the Basket Stitch design.
Step 3: The next set of Half Hitches are tied with the
working cords (1 and 8), by passing around 2 holding
cords.
Step 6: Use the left working cord (#1) to tie the final
Half Hitch around holding cords 2 - 5.
Step 3: Now use the left working cord (#1) to make the
same number of knots, just below the first set.
There are several different Half Hitch Patterns used in Macrame, to make various types of
decorative chains. You should review the process of making standard Alternating Half
Hitches, and Double Half Hitches, before trying the different patterns described below.
These particular designs all use holding cords, also called knot bearers. Holding cords are not
used to tie the knots at all. When practicing, it helps to use a different color for these holding
cords.
Obtain 3 cords to work with, and secure them to your work surface. The center one will be the
holding cord for all the knots.
Tie a Half Hitch onto it, using the left strand. Then make another Half Hitch, using the right
one.
Continue to alternate back and forth between the strands as you continue the chain.
2-By-2
This sennit starts out with 3 cords, the middle one holding all the knots.
Use the left strand, and tie 2 Half Hitches onto the holding cord. This is called a Double Half
Hitch (DHH). Then do the same with the right one.
Repeat the process over and over to form the rest of the chain.
Long AHH Chain
You’ll need 3 cords to work with for this Half Hitch pattern. The center cord will hold all the
knots.
Step 1: Make 3 or more Half Hitches with the right strand. Then do the same with the left
one.
Step 2: Alternate back and forth between the two strands to make the sennit longer.
Other Patterns
A very interesting design can be made by tying the Alternating Half Hitches in what is called
a progressive pattern.
Progressive Design
Step 3: Repeat steps 2 and 3 over and over, until the sennit is complete.
Picots are a real favorite of mine. So I worked out a way to make an Alternating Half Hitch
pattern that features them.
Step 1: Mentally label 4 strands. The
strands on the outside (1 and 4) are the
working cords. The inner ones (2 and 3)
are the holding cords.
Description: The Vertical Half Hitch is constructed somewhat differently than the other
variations of the DHH. So I've devoted a whole page to helping you learn this important
Macrame technique.
It's also called the Vertical Double Half Hitch, and can be used to make wide belts,
Friendship Bracelets, and even webbed feet for frogs. Here are two projects that feature this
decorative knot:
You can click on the small images to see larger ones, which show the details more
clearly.
Some Macrame patterns will have you use an EXTRA cord to make the knots. In which case,
you would secure it to the left of the vertical strands, which are ALL holding cords. The
pattern will also specify which direction you will be tying the knots.
Step 2: Pass the working cord under the strand next
to it on the right (holding cord). Bring the end over the
holding cord lower down, under it, and over the
segment of the working cord on the right.
It's the same as the first knot, only you don't need to
pass the end under before you tie the knot. Both steps
equal one Vertical Half Hitch.
Tie the Half Hitch the same way you did in Step 2.
Tie the second HH just below the first, like you did in
Step 3.
Design Tip: Any time you make a Vertical Half Hitch, try to tighten the first part so that
the entire knot is as tight as possible.
Tie the Half Hitch the same way, over - under - over,
but make sure the end is heading left.
To practice Webbed Feet, use a separate piece of material as the working cord. Secure four
holding cords to your board, and secured the working cord to the left of them.
Step 3: As yout tie each new row, separate the holding cords further and further apart, to form
the webbed feet.
Design Tip: You will need to tie an Overhand knot with each holding cord, placing them just
below the final row of VHH. Otherwise, the knots could slip off.
Adding Picots
The Vertical Half Hitch pattern can be decorated by applying PICOTS, which are small
loops. Step 1: Make the first row of Vertical DHH as described above. You can use one of
the vertical cords to tie the knots, as I did, or use a separate working cord.
You will need 4 holding cords to practice this Vertical Half Hitch pattern. Cut two working
cords as well, preferably a different color.
Step 1: Tie one row of Vertical HH with each of the
working cords. Start with the one closest to the
holding cords.
Design Tip: When making the larger picots on the outside, you just fit the cord around the
first one. Hold it steady while you tie the knot onto the holding cord.
This way you don't need to add space and push the knot into place, which is awkward.
Step 4: The ends should now be at the left. The 5th Vertical Half Hitch row is made with
the working cord you just used (tan). The 6th row is made with the remaining working cord
(blue). Step 5: Repeat steps 2 - 4 over and over to lengthen the design.
Description: The Double Half Hitch (DHH) is vital to the craft of Macrame. Most of the
Macrame patterns in existence use this decorative knot in one form or another. So this is a
very important decorative knot, and you MUST know how to tie it, or many patterns won't
make sense to you.
If you tie a series of knots, one right next to the other, a raised bar will form. You can
construct the bars in any direction, and even form elaborate shapes.
Variations: The Horizontal, Diagonal and Reverse DHH are shown below.
You will find vintage Macrame projects where the direction of the bar varies to form a
particular design, such as diamonds, leaves and angles. See Double Half Hitch Patterns to
learn more variations.
The strands attached to the holding cord are called Working Cords. Make sure you know the
difference between the two.
Step 1: To practice, secure least 3 cords to your project board with pins, after folding
them in half. They should be vertical.
Place a separate piece of material on top of the vertical
strands. This holding cord should be horizontal.
Step 3: Make a second Half Hitch just like the first one,
placing it to the right.
But be sure to pull the end slightly to the right when you
tie the first one.
Design Tip: When you use one of the vertical strands to hold the knots, you need to attach the
working cords in a specific direction: Start with the working cord that rests closest to the
holding cord.
In the example above, the holding cord is the strand furthest to the left (1). The first working
cord you attach is the next one over (cord 2).
Diagonal DHH
The Diagonal Double Half Hitch can be used to form a variety of designs. It's used frequently
to make diamond shapes and V designs. See Vintage Diamonds for more information.
It's very IMPORTANT that you know how to tie this knot diagonally, since you will see it
often in Macrame patterns.
Step 1: To practice this variation of the Double Half Hitch, you will need at least 4 cords
secured to your board. They should be arranged vertically.
Mentally number the cords from left to right. Use the
strand furthest to the left (1) as the holding cord.
Step 2: Tie the first Half Hitch with cord 2. They are
made just like the others you have been practicing.
Step 3: Pull the first Half Hitch tightly, and tie another
one to complete the Double Half Hitch.
Design Tip: When tying this decorative knot diagonally, you should always start with the
working cord that's closest to the holding cord.
Another way to look at it is to progress in the same direction you moved the holding cord. In
this example, you moved the holding cord left to right. So the first working cord is the furthest
one to the left (cord 2). You then progress towards the strand on the far right (cord 7).
This is what the diagonal Double Half Hitch looks like
when it's finished.
Now you can take the same holding cord and direct it
back to the left.
Reminder: Start the row of DHH with the strand closest to the holding cord (7). Since you
moved the holding cord from right to left, that's how you should progress as you attach each
knot.
Then it passes over and under the dowel, and over the
segment at the bottom. Then repeat the process to
make the second Half Hitch.
Make the second Half Hitch the same way, after you
tighten the first one.
Bring the end under the back of the dowel, over in front,
and under the cord at the bottom.
Design Tip: The knots are often tied in this manner in Macrame Table patterns. By
reversing the knot as you attach the DHH onto rings, the glass can rest on inside of the knots.
The Honey Pot Table features the use of the Reverse Double Half Hitch, if you want to see it
in a real project.
Cockscomb Knot
The item you are covering is wrapped with Half Hitches, but they are arranged in a manner
that causes the front of the knot to stand up above the surface of the dowel. By alternating the
direction of the Half Hitches, a type of braid is formed, which adds character.
Variations: The Cockscomb knot is often made with loops rather than braiding. So I have
included the instructions for the Loop Ringbolt Hitch, and ZigZag Ringbolt.
You can click on the images and a large picture will come up in a new window.
Step 1: You need 3 cords, each at least 36 inches long. You will also need a dowel to practice
this unique decorative knot. Secure the cords at the top of the dowel, so they rest side-by-side.
You can use another piece of cord or tape.
Label the opposite end of each cord (1, 2, 3), which makes it easier to keep them organized.
Make sure you move left to right as you number them.
Step 2: Take cord 1 and wrap it around the dowel, going counter-clockwise, to make the first
Half Hitch.
Make sure the end goes under the segment of the cord on the left, and that the end rests on
the LEFT when you are through. Tighten the knot firmly.
Step 3: Use cord 2 next, and bring it down below cord 1. Make a Half Hitch in a clockwise
direction, so the end is on the RIGHT when you are finished.
Arrange the knot so it is next to the first one, and is completely tightened.
Step 4: Make the next Half Hitch with cord 3, so that the Half Hitch is made in a counter-
clockwise direction, just like the first one. The end should rest on the LEFT.
Step 5: Now you use cord 1 again. Pull it towards the right,
crossing the front of the dowel on an angle. Make the Half Hitch in a clockwise direction, so
the end is to the right.
Step 6: Cord 2 is next, so pull it to the left. Make the Half
Hitch so the end is on the left (counter-clockwise).
Step 7: Bring Cord 3 to the right, and make the Half Hitch
in a clockwise direction.
This type of Cockscomb knot is made with one cord. The raised area is made with a series
of loops, rather than a crisscrossing weave. Except for the first one, all the Half Hitches (and
the loops) are made in the same direction.
ZigZag Ringbolt
This type of Cockscomb knot is similar to the Loop Ringbolt above, but the loops are made
in alternate directions. This creates a ZigZag appearance to the knots. You'll need one 60-inch
cord to practice.
Bring the end under the dowel (right to left), and through the
loop from below.
To continue, repeat steps 3 and 4 over and over, alternating the direction of the loops
each time.
This is what the ZigZag Ringbolt looks like with the knots
separated. The loops change direction each time.
The direction and angle of the HOLDING cord will determine the overall shape of the design.
I have listed several common techniques to show you some examples of how this
versatile knot can be used to make different shapes. Be sure you know how to make
the Double Half Hitch before you get started.
Click on any of the small icons and large pictures will show up in a new window.
Making Angles
Design Tip: If you wanted only one angle, stop at Step 4. To make your Double Half
Hitch patterns with two angles, continue on to the next steps.
You will need at least 3 cords folded in half and secured to a board. If you prefer, you
can mount them to a dowel or another cord.
The gap between the two rows can be any size you
wish, simply by changing the slant of the holding cord.
X Shape
Design Tip: Remember that the angle or slant of the holding cords will determine the
overall shape of your Double Half Hitch patterns.
Design Tip: You should always start the row of DHH with the strand closest to the
holding cord.
Design Tip: Double Half Hitch patterns can seem a bit complicated. Just remember
that because the holding cords are coming from the center, the rows of DHH need to
start near the center, moving outward.
As you tie the DHH, tighten them so the bar still curves
upward slightly.
Design Tip: Remember that all Double Half Hitch patterns are determined by the
curve and angle of the holding cords. To change the shape, just adjust the positon of
the holding cord as you attach the cords to it.
Note: These are the same holding cords used for the
bottom of the first set of leaves (2 and 15).
Step 7: Direct holding cord 9 to the left, and cord 8 to
the right. Secure them so they curve slightly.
Shell Knot
Description: The Shell Knot is a type of button knot that is formed using the Double
Half Hitch. I've seen it referred to as a Berry Knot as well. It's rare to find this
Macrame technique in actual patterns, but it is so pretty I felt it deserved a page all to
itself. You could use this decoration on handbags, plant hangers, on wall hangings, or
on curtain patterns. Start by mounting 5 strands of material to a holding cord with
Larks Head Knots. They should each be at least 40 inches long.
Tip: The outer portion of the knot is basically a curved diamond. So if you need
help in understanding how Diamonds are made, click on the link to go to that page
now. Step 2: Attach cords 4 thru 1 to the left holding cord (5), in that order, with
Double Half Hitches (DHH). Next, attach cords 7 thru 10 to the right holding cord (6),
in the same manner. This forms the top edge of the diamond. You can either secure the
holding cords out of the way for now, or just move them. They will not be used again
until step 8.
Spiral Design
Description: The Spiral Design is a very unique way of using Double Half Hitches. I have
only seen it in one pattern out of the hundreds I have looked at, so this Vitage design is very
rarely used. Like all DHH Patterns, the holding cord determines the shape.
I used different colors in the examples below to help with these instructions. In an actual
pattern, you will use only 1 color. You can click on the icons to see larger images, which
come up in a new window.
Step 1: Start by obtaining some 4mm to 6mm cord material, to practice this interesting
technique. You will need several strands, each at least 60 inches long. The actual pattern will
specify what lengths you need to cut. You will need a project board and pins as well.
Step 2: The holding cord (Rust) should be secured
horizontally, near the left end.
This shows the path the holding cord will take for the
third row. If you lay the cord like this before each row
is tied, you can visualize where new strands may need
to be added. It generally takes 2 or 3 extra strands to
cover the coiled holding cord completely.
The most important thing to remember as you progress, is to attach the right half of the
holding cord to the left, to complete each row. The Spiral Design will not work out if you
neglect that step.
Guitar Bar
Description: The Guitar Bar is an interesting way to use Half Hitches. They are arranged
horizontally, and are attached to vertical strands. By flipping the sennit over every other row,
raised areas form, which resemble the frets of a guitar.
This unique Macrame design can be used for bracelets, belts, key chains, and other similar
projects where you need a thick sturdy band of decorative knots.
Determine the length you want the Guitar Bar to end up. Multiply that by 2 and add 4 inches.
Cut one cord to that size.
For the second cord, muliply the size of the bar x 8, and add 4 inches.
If making a bracelet or belt, make the cords longer, since you will need a clasp.
Step 1: Mount the short cord to a ring by folding it in
half and tying a Larks Head Knot.
Another way to look at this is to make sure the left portion is at least 6 times the length of the
finished bar. That half will be used to tie all the knots, so it has to be much longer.
If you are making a bracelet or a belt, no mounting is necessary. Just make some type of clasp
instead. You still need to make sure the cord furthest to the left is longer than the others.
Step 3: Next, tie a Half Hitch onto cord 3. Then tie the
following Half Hitch onto cord 4.
Empty Diamond
Description: The Empty Diamond is such a unique diamond design, that I decided it needed a
page of it's own. I found this vintage decorative knot in a book written in the late 1800's. It's
not seen all that often in modern Macrame projects.
The reason this is called an EMPTY diamond is due to the fact that the ends do not come
through the center in any way. They are isolated to the top and bottom of the diamond,
creating an open space in the center.
The key to successfully making this knot is to pull all the Double Half Hitches tightly. This
way the edges are of uniform thickness, all the way around the design.
Make sure you know the difference between HOLDING and WORKING cords. See the
Dictionary for more details.
You can click on the small images below to see larger ones.
Start by mounting 5 strands of material to a holding cord with Larks Head Knots. If you wish,
you can also secure the folded cords directly to your board with pins.
Each of the cords should be at least 45 inches in length. Any type of material can be used to
make the Empty diamond, but for practicing, I found that 4mm cord material was the best.
Step 1: Mentally number the strands 1 thru 10, moving left to right. The first holding
cords will be strands 5 and 6.
The first working cord is #4. Tie a DHH with it, onto
the left holding cord (5).
Before you get started, make sure the DHH are close
together.
Step 12: Tie one cord around the other, with a DHH.
It doesn't matter which one ties the knot.
Unique Diamonds
Description: Unique Diamonds can be made with Double Half Hitches combined with other
decorative knots. The designs described on this page are rarely seen in Macrame books and
patterns. I even came up with a few of my own designs to show you some of the possibilities.
You start by creating diagonal rows of Double Half Hitches (DHH), to make the top of the
design.
Then you focus on the center, tying other types of decorative knots. You need to choose knots
that are small and compact, or that you can tie to make short sennits.
Finally, you complete the bottom with two more rows of DHH.
Make sure you know how to tie Half Hitches, along with the other knots described below.
Also, you should know the difference between HOLDING cords and WORKING cords. See
the Dictionary for more details.
You can click on the images and larger pictures will come up so you can see the details
better.
Here are the instructions for making the TOP of the Unique Diamonds
described below:
Step 1: To practice, you will need 5 strands of material, folded in half. Secure them directly
to your board with pins.
Design Tip: In Double Half Hitch designs, the holding cords determine the shape of what
you are making. So in this case, when using them to make these unique diamonds, keep them
as straight as possible.
Step 4: The vertical working cords are now used to make a variety of designs, forming the
center section (cords 1 - 4 and 7 - 10).
Design Tip: Keep the holding cords secured to your board (5 and 6). They are not used again
until you are ready to make the bottom portion of the diamond.
Once the center design is complete, the holding cords are directed towards the center, and
the working cords are attached again.
Below are several decorative knots you can use for the CENTER:
If you want to see what the single knot looks like, go to Vintage Diamonds.
Step 1: Make the top of the diamond as described above (steps 1 - 3).
Remember that you do not use holding cords 5 and 6 to tie the knots in the center, so keep
them secured.
Design Tip: Sometimes you can fit a third row of ASK into the center of the diamond,
depending on the material you are using. If you think you can, tie the 4th and 5th knots the
same as the first two.
Step 2: Complete the bottom of the diamond by
directing the holding cords (5 and 6) to the center.
Description: The center of Unique Diamonds can be made using sennits, which is a series of
knots. This one features the Spiral Stitch, which is also called the Half Knot Spiral.
A Half Knot is simply the first half of a Square knot. When you tie several of them, the sennit
twists.
Step 1: Begin my making the top half of the diamond, as described above.
Keep the holding cords (5 and 6) secured to your board. Also secure the right and left corners
of the diamond, by placing pins right where the top rows of DHH end.
Design Tip: Tighten the knots firmly and make sure they are close together. The Spiral
Stitch needs to rotate at least once, so you'll need at least 5 - 6 Half Knots.
Step 2: Complete the bottom by directing the holding
cords to the center.
As in all diamonds, you start by making the top first. Keep the holding cords secured (5 and
6), and also secure the right and left corners of the diamond.
The four cords closest to the center of the diamond are combined, so you are using cords 3
and 4 on the left, with cords 7 and 8 on the right. The remaining four strands should be moved
out of your way for now.
Step A: Use cords 3 and 4 to make one Half Hitch onto cords 7 and 8.
Step B: Next, use cords 7 and 8 to tie one Half Hitch onto cords 3 and 4.
By doubling the cords like this, the sennit stands out a little more. You should only need 3
Half Hitches, but if you think you can fit more, give it a try.
When you are finished, direct the holding cords to the center and attach four working cords to
each one. Attach the ones that were not used first (1, 2, 9, 10), so you don't forget them.
Close the diamond by tying a DHH with one holding cord to the other.
For these unique Diamonds, the working cords on the left are combined (1 and 2). The right
working cords are also combined (9 and 10).
Tie one Alternating Half Hitch with each set of cords, onto cords 3, 4, 7, and 8. So instead of
tying the cords onto each other, you use the four strands to hold the knots.
Complete the bottom by directing the original holding cords (5 and 6) to the center. Attach 4
cords to each one with DHH. Finish by tying the two holding cords together.
Unique Diamonds can also be made with more than one sennit. In this design, I combined
working cords 1 and 2, tying the Half Hitch onto cords 3 and 4. Then I reversed that, tying the
knot with cords 3 and 4 onto cords 1 and 2.
Then I made a second sennit, combining cords 7 and 8 on the left, with 9 and 10 on the right.
Complete the bottom by directing the holding cords (5 and 6) to the center. Attach 4 cords to
each one with DHH. Finish by tying the two holding cords together.
Description: The final three unique diamonds I will describe here are my own creations. I'm
sure I'm not the only one to think of them, though.
There are so many ways to form the center part of diamonds that I encourage you to be
creative. Try using different decorative knots singly or in sennits. Or just twist and curve the
cords to come up with your own unique designs.
Like the other unique diamonds on this page, you need to create the top portion of the
diamond first. Secure the holding cords and the corners.
Twist Design
Take all the working cords running through the center, and give them a twist. Another option
is to divide them into two groups of four and twist the two groups around each other.
Complete the bottom by directing the holding cords to the center and attach the working cords
with DHH. Don't forget to tie one holding cord to the other.
Braid Design
You can divide the cords into 3 to 4 groups, and tie an Interlaced Plait, also called a braid.
It doesn't really matter if the groups have the same amount of cords, since you can't tell the
difference in such a small space.
Unique diamonds can have large single knots inside them. Triangle Knots are normally tied
using two cords, but in this case you need to combine the cords into two groups instead (four
strands each).
Bring them down to the area near the bight, and pass
them under cords 1 - 4.
Step 3: Pass cords 7 - 10 under cords 1 - 4, as you
bring them to the top of the knot. You should be
moving them in a clockwise direction.
Vintage Diamonds
Window Design Square Knot Design Weave Design
Description: These Vintage Diamonds are made with Double Half Hitches, and are the most
commonly seen decorative knot patterns in existence. Most Macrame books will have
instructions and projects that use them in one form or another. These three designs were
popular in the late 1800's, but they are rarely used anymore.
The basic concept for each of the three diamonds is the same:
You will be creating diagonal rows of Double Half Hitches (DHH), at both the top and
bottom of the diamonds. It's the middle area that is changed to produce each of the three
designs shown.
So make sure you know how to tie Half Hitches. Also, be sure you know the difference
between HOLDING cords and WORKING cords. See the Dictionary for more details.
You can click on the small images and larger pictures will come up so you can see the
details better.
Here are the instructions for making the TOP of each Vintage Diamond
described on this page:
Step 1: Secure 5 strands of material to a project board with pins. Make sure you fold them in
half, so you have 10 strands to work with.
Design Tip: In Double Half Hitch designs, the holding cords determine the shape of what
you are making. When making your Vintage Diamonds, make sure the holding cords are
straight in both the top and bottom areas.
Step 3: On the left, attach working cords 4 thru 1, to
holding cord 6, with DHH (in that order).
Step 4: The vertical working cords can now be used to make a variety of designs, forming the
center section (cords 1 - 4 and 7 - 10).
The 2 holding cords should remain secured to your board (5 and 6). They are not used
again until you are ready to make the bottom portion of the diamond.
Once the center design is complete, the same holding cords are directed towards the center,
and the working cords are attached again.
To close the bottom of the vintage diamond, one holding cord is attached to the other, with a
DHH.
Here are the 3 designs you can use for the CENTER portion of your Vintage
Diamonds:
Window Design
Description: The Window Design is a vintage technique that was often used in Macrame
projects in the late 1800's. The working cords are folded in such a way that a space is formed
in the center, surrounded by folded cords. The design actually looks a little like a window
with a curtain.
Step 1: Make the top of the diamond as described above (steps 1 - 3).
Direct the holding cords towards each other, meeting
in the center of the diamond.
Design Tip: In other designs you would attach cords 10 - 7, since cord 10 is closest to the
right point. But in this design, they need to fold, so it's reversed.
Description: The center of Vintage Diamonds are frequently decorated with a single Square
Knot. Like all diamonds, the top is made first. Then you tie the SK in the center. The bottom
is then completed.
Step 1: Secure 5 folded cords to your board. Mentally number them from left to right (1 - 10).
The holding cords are 5 and 6.
Make the top half of the diamond following the steps described above. Keep the holding cords
secured, since they are not used to make the Square Knot.
Tie the first half of the Square Knot. The fillers are
the remaining cords (3, 4, 7, 8).
Step 2: Tie the second half of the Square knot to
complete it. When you tighten it, try to arrange it so
the top of the knot lines up with the right and left
corners of the diamond (black line in image)
Weave Design
Description: The center of Vintage Diamonds can be decorated with a simple weaving
pattern. I found this design in a Macrame book written in 1905.
Step 1: Make the top of the diamond following the instructions previously described. Leave
both holding cords attached to the board when you are finished.
Step 4: Direct the holding cords to the center. Be careful not to disturb the weaving.
Attach cords 7 - 10 to the left holding cord. (They are on the left now).
Design Tip: Pull the knots tight so the weaving is pulled as well. It looks better if the center is
taut.
LARKS HEAD
DESIGNS
Description: The Larks Head Knot is one of the most frequently used Macrame
knots in existence. The vertical variation was called the Buttonhole Stitch in the
early days of Macramé. That’s because it is often used to make clothing or jewelry
designs using buttons. Another name for this decorative knot is the Cow Hitch.
Most of the time, this technique is used in the mounting process; to attach one cord to
another, or to a ring, dowel or purse handle. However, you can use it at any point in a
pattern.
Variations: The Reverse Larks Head is described below. I've also added instructions
for tying the Nestled Mount.
On a separate page, Larks Head Sennits, you will learn how to use this technique to
form decorative chains. The Vertical Larks Head is also described separately. Make
sure you visit those pages, so you learn how to use these knots well.
Step 1: To practice, obtain a holding cord or
ring. Larks Head Knots need to be attached
to something. Then cut one working cord to
tie the knots.
Here's a variation that is not very well known. It is used when different colors are
required to form an alternating design.
In other words, the first knot nestles inside the second one.
To see a pattern where this technique is used to create color changes, see the Square
Knot Sennits.
Any time you use a Larks Head Knot (LH) within in a pattern, other than as a mounting knot,
you are likely to tie them in two parts. So this is a very important decorative knot, and you
should practice it several times.
Many Macrame patterns require you to tie these knots to cover items such as rings and
dowels. Plant Hanger projects are particulary noted for this. So I've included the instructions
for making the Vertical Larks Head knot on a ring.
Covering Rings
Step 1: Obtain one strand of material, at least 60 inches long. You will also need a ring or
dowel.
Tie the first Larks Head knot by folding the cord in half, and placing it under the bottom
portion of the ring. Bring both ends up and over the ring, then down through the space,
coming out from beneath the folded portion.
Step 2: Take the right end and bring it over the ring, under it and over the cord.
Step 3: Use the right end again, and bring it under the ring, over it and under the cord.
Both steps equal one Larks Head. Even though the knots are not truly vertical in this
example, this is how you tie all Vertical Larks Head knots - in two parts.
To continue, you would simply use the right end to repeat steps
2 and 3, until the right half of the ring is covered. Then you need to use the left end and do
the same, to cover the other side of the ring. Most patterns will have you tie a knot to secure
the ends when they meet up again, at the top.
Variations
Sometimes a pattern calls for a Vertical Larks Head that is facing a specific direction. So
these first 2 variations feature this knot first facing towards each other, then away from one
another.
Obtain 2 cords and fold them in half. You can mount them to a dowel or holding cord to
make it easier to work with them. Mentally number the strands 1 thru 4.
Mount 2 cords to a dowel or holding cord, folding them in half so you have 4 strands to
work with. Mentally number the cords 1 thru 4.
The working cords are strands 1 and 4 this time. The
holding cords are 2 and 3. Tie the Vertical Larks
Heads as described above.
DESIGN 1
Design 2
Design 3
This Larks Head sennit does not require a separate
holding cord, like the ones above. This makes a great design for purse handles, bracelets, and
anywhere you need a slender chain of knots.
Description: Several Larks Head Designs can be made that result in unique Macrame
decorations. For example, the Larks Head Button shown above is an interesting way to use
this versatile knot.
Picot designs can also be made with Larks Head knots, so two variations are described for you
below.
You can click on the icons and larger images will show up.
Obtain 3 cords and mount them to a holding cord, or simply pin them to your project
board. If you wish, you can use 2 cords, but the design won't be as stable. Picots require extra
material, so be sure the cords are at least 45 inches long. Step 1: Tie a Vertical Larks Head
Knot with the right strand onto the other 2 cords. The picots will be on the right. To place
them on the left, use the left strand as the working cord.
Step 3: Repeat step 2 over and over, to form the rest of the sennit.
Step 3: Use the cord furthest to the left (#1), and repeat steps 1 and 2. Cord 4 will not be
used for this step, and these knots will face the opposite direction. Step 4: Alternate back
and forth between the working cords (1 and 4) to complete the Larks Head Design.
Description: The Double Buttonhole Stitch is a variation of the Vertical Larks Head Knot.
In the early days of Macrame, the Larks Head was called the Buttonhole Knot. It was named
that because it was frequently used in patterns that call for buttons, such as vests. This vintage
decorative knot can be used as a clasp for necklaces, bracelets, and handbags, as well as for
clothing.
Buttonhole Scallops and the Buttonhole Clasp are related techniques because they also
feature the Vertical Larks Head knot. They are often used together in the same Macrame
pattern.
You can click on the images and a large picture will come up in a new window.
You need four strands of material to practice this knotting technique. Secure them to your
project board or work surface. Mentally number them 1 - 4, moving left to right. Using two
colors really helps as you are learning.
Buttonhole Scallops
Description: Using Buttonhole Scallops as part of the mounting process was very common in
the early 1900’s. So this knot is considered a Vintage technique. Scallops form a very
attractive, finished edge.
Buttonhole Scallops are used in combination with other mounting knots, such as the Double
Half Hitch used in the directions here. The primary decorative knot used to make these
unique scallops is the Vertical Larks Head.
You can click on the images below to see larger photos, which will open in a new
window.
Step 1: Obtain 3 cords to practice making Buttonhole Scallops. One should be at least 12
inches longer than the others. In an actual pattern, the length will be specified, and it's usually
much longer compared to the others.
Secure one of the short cords to your work surface horizontally. This will be a holding cord,
which the knots will be attached to. It's the orange one in the images.
Lay the other short cord down vertically, under the holding cord. This one is called the
"core", and it's the yellow one in the images.
Place the longest cord to the left of the first one, also underneath the holding cord. It's the
working cord, and will be used to make the Larks Head knots. The top portion of it can be
secured temporarily.
Note: In an actual pattern, the working cord and the core will usually be off-center, so more is
above the holding cord than below.
Tie the first Half Hitch with the bottom portion of the
working cord (green).
After it's tightened, slide it over so the knots rest side by side.
Step 4: You will now use the upper portion of the two vertical cords. Take the working
cord (left) and direct it over the core, under it, and over itself as you bring it back to the left.
Step 5: For the second half of the knot, pass under the core first, over it, and then under
itself on the left.
Step 6: Repeat steps 4 and 5, tying 4 to 6 knots. If you wish the scallops to be larger, tie
additional knots.
Form a curved loop, also called a scallop, with the knots you just tied.
Step 7: Form a curved loop, also called a scallop, with the sennit of knots you just tied.
Next, pass the two cords under the horizontal holding cord. Attach both of them with
Double Half Hitches, as you did in steps 2 and 3.
In an actual pattern using Buttonhole Scallops, the four vertical strands would now be used to
tie other Macrame knots.
Buttonhole Clasp
Step 1: Cut 2 cords, each at least 45 inches long. In an actual pattern, the working cord should
be cut longer than the holding cord. Secure both cords to your project board, vertically.
In these images, the yellow strand is the holding cord, also called the "core". The green one is
the working cord. You can click on them to see a larger image, which comes up in a new
window.
Description: The Barnacle Knot is a great way to make ring-shaped designs for Macrame.
This circular knot can be used for pendants and earrings. You can also use it instead of metal
rings at the top of plant hangers. It's a variation of the Ashoka Chakra Knot, which uses the
Slipknot instead of the Larks Head knots that this one features.
In other words, multiply the size you need by 2, then add an 1/2 to 1-inch for the loop at the
top, if you need it.
Turn the Barnacle knot so the loop and ends are at the
bottom, like the image below.
Step 8: Use the working end to tie the first half of the
Larks head around both the loop and the short end.
That's over in the front, under to the back, and over
at the bottom.
Wrapped Knot
Description: The Wrapped Knot is sometimes referred to as the Gathering Wrap, in vintage
Macrame patterns. It serves the same purpose as that of the Linen Stitch, which is to make a
bundle of several strands. This Macrame technique is found in many projects, so be sure to
practice it several times.
This type of decorative knot is often used in Macrame patterns as a finishing knot, but it can
be used anywhere. In the images, the knot was used at the top of the hanger, to bundle the
strands.
It can also be used as a sliding necklace or bracelet clasp as well. See Sliding Clasps for more
information.
You need at least 3 cords to practice this decorative knot. In the images below, I tied the knot
around 32 strands of Nylon Paracord.
The working cord will be a separate strand, and the knot will be tied around the other strands,
which are usually longer.
Most Macrame patterns will specify how long the Wrapped knot should be. If not, usually 1 -
2 inches is a good length.
You can click on the images below to see larger ones with clearer details.
Step 1: Lay the cords being wrapped on your work surface horizontally. The working cord
should be placed below, and secured at one end, on your left.
Fold it about 2 inches beyond the area you want to wrap. The crook of the fold should be on
your right, and I recommend that you secure it.
Step 2: Take the working end and bring it up and over the other cords being wrapped,
including the secured end.
Step 3: Wrap the working end around several more times, progressing towards the fold (left
to right). Make the wraps snug, so they hold onto the bundle of cords firmly.
When the knot is the right size, pass the working end through the loop (folded portion).
Step 4: Pull on the SECURED end (on the left). The loop and working end will be pulled
inside the knot, which secures it.
The loop should come to rest in the middle portion of the knot.
Step 5: It's a good idea to apply glue to the wrapped area, and then cut off both ends of the
working cord. You don't need to do this if you are making a clasp.
Description: Linked Overhand Knots can be used for a variety of purposes in Macrame. The
6 decorative knots described here are very useful, and are definitely worth the time to learn.
They all have a bead-like appearance and are seometimes used to decorate cords.
These interesting knots are very strong and sturdy, and I have seen them used in nets,
hammocks, and other items that hold weight. But they can also be used in Jewelry designs and
just about any type of Macrame pattern.
You can click on the small images and a larger picture will come up in a new window.
Step 1: You need 2 cords to practice this knot, preferably 2 different colors. Secure one end
of both cords to your board.
Make a counter-clockwise loop with cord on the left, so the working end crosses over the
secured end at the top.
Step 2: Make a clockwise loop with the right cord, passing the working end through loop 1,
from below (under - over). Pass it under the secured end to form the crossing point at the
top.
Move the loops slightly so there is a small space between them (indicated by the X).
Step 3: Finish the right Overhand knot by directing the SECURED end down and into the
space between the two loops, from below (under - over).
Design Tip: Tightening Linked Overhand Knots is an important step, and should be done
gradually. Try to keep the knots flat on your board as you tighten them.
Shamrock Knot
There are usually interesting names for the Linked Overhand knots. This one is called the
Shamrock Knot, or the True Love Knot.
I often use this technique when tying Lanyard Knots, so I have a sturdy base to start with.
It's easy to tie and makes an interesting crisscross design.
Step 1: You need 2 strands of material, each at least 12 inches long to practice this unique
decorative knot.
Make an Overhand Knot in the middle of one cord. The crossing point needs to be at the top.
Don't tighten the knot just yet.
Step 2: Pass the second cord through the first Overhand Knot.
It should pass over at the bottom and under the crossed area at the top.
Step 3: Complete the second Overhand knot by bringing the upper segment downward (over)
the crossed area of the first knot.
The crossing point for the second knot needs to be at the bottom, and rest inside the first
knot.
Design Tip: Linked Overhand Knots have to be constructed carefully, or they don't work
out. So pay close attention to the over and under details, as well as the direction of the ends.
Step 4: Turn the second Overhand knot sideways, so the ends are heading vertically (north
and south).
The ends of the first knot should be horizontal (east and west).
Tighten the linked Overhand knots gradually, making sure to keep the ends in the proper
direction. You can move them after the knot is tightened, if you want them to head in the
same direction.
Rosendahl's Bend
This decorative knot, also called the Zeppelin Bend, is a unique way to tie linked Overhand
knots.
It’s very useful if you want the cords to end up heading in 4 different directions, similar to the
Shamrock knot above.
Step 1: You need 2 cords, each at least 12 inches long, to practice this technique.
Step 2: Take the first cord (blue) and secure the end to your left. Make a clockwise loop,
bringing the working end over the secured one to form the crossing point. The end should be
heading upward when you are through.
Make a counter-clockwise loop, so the working end passes over the secured end. This end
should be heading upward, too.
Step 3: Carefully move the left loop on top of the right one. The crook of the right loop
should be near the crossing point of the left loop, and vice-versa.
Make sure the secured ends are horizontal and the working ends are vertical, as shown.
Step 4: To complete the left Overhand knot (blue), pass the working end into BOTH loops
from below.
It should go under the 2 segments at the top. At the bottom, the working end will pass over
the two segments.
Step 5: To complete the right Overhand knot (purple), direct the SECURED end through the
two loops, from the top. That's the end heading downward on the right.
It should pass over the segments at the bottom and under the two at the top.
Step 6: Gradually work out the slack by pulling on all 4 ends of these Linked Overhand
knots. When finished, the ends should be heading in 4 different directions.
Fisherman's Knot
This knot is related to the Shamrock knot, but is constructed a bit differently. Linked
Overhand knots often look very much alike, and all provide strong holds.
Step 1: Make an Overhand Knot in one cord, so the
crossing point is at the top. Don't tighten it yet. That's
the red cord in the images.
Step 4: Tighten the linked Overhand knots gradually, so you can clearly see the crossed
design.
Sheet Bend
I consider the Sheet Bend to be one of the most unique of the Linked Overhand knots. This
technique produces a flatter profile than the others, and I use it whenever I need to add more
length to a cord that was cut too short. Step 1: Fold one cord in half, so it is horizontal,
with the crook on your right. That's the red cord in the image.
Place the second cord (blue) through the first one near
the crook, so it passes over the top portion of the first
cord, and under the bottom portion.
Alpine Bend
Linked Overhand Knots are often used in other crafts. The Alpine Bend has been in
existence a long time, but you rarely see it in Macrame projects. It's one of the easiest to tie,
and provides a good strong hold. Step 1: You need 2 cords at least 12 inches long to
practice this decorative knot. Secure the left end of one cord over to your left. Make a
clockwise loop, directly in front of you. (Blue Cord) Step 2: Secure one end of the other
cord, to your right. Make the second loop in a counter-clockwise direction.
Step 2: Pass it through the first loop from below,
which is under - over. It should rest to the right of the
other loop.
So the
ends
pass
under
the
segment
s at the
top, and
over the
ones at
the
bottom.
Barrel Knot
Description: The Barrel Knot is similar to the Overhand Knot, and is used
frequently in Macrame projects. I learned it when I was young, and was
instructed to use it when sewing on buttons. In Vintage patterns it is sometimes
called the Coil Knot. It’s used as a finishing knot at the ends of cords, to prevent
them from unraveling, and to secure items such as Macrame beads.
Variations: There are several other similar designs listed below, including the
Long Barrel, the Strangle Knot, the Barrel Bead, and the Knuckle knot.
Step 1: To practice, cut a single cord, at least 12 inches long. Hold it in both
hands and make an Overhand Knot, so the crossing point is at the top. Using the
right end, wrap the cord around the loop 2 or 3 more times. Keep the tension the
same with each wrap, and make sure the end is on the inside of the circle when
you are finished.
Step 2: Using the right end, wrap the cord around the
upper part of the loop 2 or 3 times. Keep the tension
the same with each wrap, and make sure the end is on
the inside of the circle when you are finished.
Step 3: Pull both ends gently to tighten the knot. If you pull too hard, the knot
will bunch up.
This variation of the Barrel Knot is very interesting, and provides a strong grip
that can hold weight. It's round enough to pass as a button knot, too.
Step 2: Flip the bottom part of the circle over the top
portion, forming a figure 8. Hold it in place as you
tighten the knot by pulling on the ends.
The Barrel Bead
I call this knot the the Barrel Bead, since it looks like
one. In fact, you can use it as decoration, instead of
beads. It's a firm, tight knot that holds very well, so it
works as a finishing knot, too.
Knuckle Knot
It's a very attractive knot, and can be used as a small pendant. The loops along
the lower edge can be used to hang charms or pendants.
Step 1: Make a counter-clockwise loop in the center
of a 60-inch cord. The right segment should pass over
the left. Secure it at the crossing point.
Notice in the image above that I put red X's on the right half of each loop. When
you get to the next step, you will need to pass under those segments, so make
sure you can locate them.
If you chose to hold the loops, they should be all lined up, with the first one on
the left and the fifth one on the right. You would direct the ends through the
middle of them.
Make sure you are passing the end under the right
half of each one.
Step 6: Pass the left end through the loops, moving in
the opposite direction (left to right).
This vintage decorative knot is also used to add cords into an area when you need
more strands to form a special design, or to make the area wider.
Click on any of the icons, and a larger image will show up in a new window.
Secure a holding cord, horizontally, to your work surface, with pins or tape. You
can also use a dowel to practice this important technique. The length of the item
or cord used to hold the mounted cords is usually specified in the pattern.
Cut 5 or more working cords that will be attached to the holding cord or dowel.
Secure the top half of the cord. Direct the bottom half
over the front of the dowel or holding cord. Bring it
under, to the back, and pass it over the segment of cord
at the bottom.
Step 2: Tie a second Half Hitch right beside the first one.
Make sure you use the same end, passing it over the front
of the dowel or holding cord. Bring it to the back and
over the segment of cord at the bottom.
Step 3: Use the top half next, and form a picot loop or
another type of knot. Make sure you secure it.
Pass the end under the dowel before you make the next
DHH.
Most of the time, the Double Half Hitch Mount will be combined with
other knots like this. On occasion, a Macrame pattern will have you leave the
upper portion secured and then use the lower portion to make the next knot.
Step 4: Slide the two DHH knots together. Now you are
ready to repeat the process, using another working cord.
See Unique Mounting Designs for
other variations that use the Double
Half Hitch Mount technique.
Three different designs are on this page. In the first example, the decorative knot
used is called the Alternating Half Hitch. In the second example, the Spiral
Stitch is featured. The final design uses the Chain Sennit to make the picot loop.
These designs are considered Vintage techniques, because they were often used
in the early 1900's.
You can click on the images and a larger picture will show up in a new
window.
To practice the most common type of Chain Picot Mount, you will need 3
cords. One will be used as a holding cord, and should be secured horizontally to
Step 1: Arrange two cords on your work surface vertically, and secure them. Tie
a Half Hitch with the left cord onto the right.
Step 2: Tie the next Half Hitch with the right cord onto the left. Alternate back
and forth between the two cords to make a series of 4 - 6 knots.
To keep everything balanced, move from the center towards one end. Then turn
the sennit around and repeat the process on the opposite side of the center point.
Step 3: Once the chain is the size you want, attach two of the ends to a holding
cord with DHH.
Make sure you direct the ends under the holding cord first, prior to tying the
DHH.
Step 5: Curve the sennit into a picot, and attach the other two ends to the holding
cord with DHH.
The second type of Chain Picot Mount uses the Spiral Stitch, also called the Half
Knot Spiral.
Step 2: Use the right working cord and direct it over the
left cord, under the filler, and over the left one again.
Step 4: Tie several more Half knots, until the first half of
the design measures 1 inch. You'll be moving from the
center towards the ends.
Step 1: Arrange one cord to your work surface horizontally. It's a holding cord,
so make sure it's taut. Slide one working cord underneath, and arrange it
vertically.
The center of the working cord should be 1 inch above the level of the holding
cord. Since you are starting the design by attaching the working cord to the
holding cord FIRST, it has to be arranged off center to be balanced.
Take the bottom portion of the working cord, and use it to tie a DHH onto the
holding cord.
These Unique Mounting Designs are usually used in the beginning stages of
Macrame projects. They are created by making some type of picot loop at the
center of a cord. You can use a decorative knot, or just fold the cord to form the
loop. Then the ends are attached to a holding cord, dowel or ring.
The ones shown are only a few of the many possible designs you can make. Once
you understand the basic concept, you can create your own custom mounts for
your Macrame projects.
For further details on how to make other mounting designs with the Double Half
Hitch (DHH), see the Double Half Hitch Mount.
Step 1: You will need four cords to practice this mounting technique. Take one
cord and arrange it horizontally on your work surface (holding cord).
The two segments furthest to the left and right are the
working cords.
Description: The Venetian Picot Mount is a vintage design that was very popular
in the early 1900's.
A PICOT is a loop or knot that stands out above a holding cord, dowel or ring. In
this case, it's a small knot called the Overhand Knot.
A HITCH is simply a knot used to attach the design to a holding cord, dowel, or
ring. Most of the time the Double Half Hitch is used, since that was the knot of
choice in the past.
More pages you might want to review are Unique Mounting Designs, and the
Chain Picot Mount. Many of the mounts on those pages are vintage designs,
too.
Cut one holding cord and secure it horizontally to your work surface. You could also
use a ring or dowel if you wish. Cut a second cord to make the picot.
Step 1: Tie an Overhand Knot in the center of one cord. Place the other cord on
top of the ends horizontally, and secure it to your work surface. It's a holding
cord, so make sure it's taut.
Step 2: Attach the left portion of the knotted cord to the holding cord with a
Double Half Hitch (DHH).
Pull it tightly so the Overhand Knot rests just above the holding cord.
Step 3: Attach the right portion to the holding cord, with a DHH.
In a Macrame pattern using Venetian Picot Mount, you would repeat steps 1 - 3
to add more working cords to the holding cord. They are then used to make the
item you're working on.
You can make this picot design larger by tying two or more
knots, arranged side-by-side. In this case, I tied five
Overhand knots, then curved it to form a wider picot loop.
Click on the images below, and larger pictures will come up in a new
window.
To practice the Matthew Walker Knot, obtain a 12-inch piece of twisted style cord,
without crossing.
Step 2: Use the strand furthest to the left. Make an Overhand knot, moving in a
counter-clockwise direction. Pass the end under the upper portion of the same
strand, so the crossing point is at the top.
The knot should be large enough to pass over the portion of the cord that remains
twisted. Do not tighten it yet.
Step 4: Tighten the knot GENTLY and slowly, helping the coils along so they don't
bunch up. You're aiming for a long, uniform knot with two ends coming out at each
end.
Linen Stitch
Description: The Linen Stitch is a very
simple way to collect a group of cords
together in one bundle. In Vintage patterns, it
is sometimes called a Collecting Knot.
Step 3: Pull out the working cord to form a loop. Hold it in your
right hand. Direct the end around the bundle one final time,
passing over the core, under it, and through the loop. Pull
firmly to tighten the knot.
Step 4: Take one of the cords within the bundle and repeat
step 3. Make sure you wrap the cord around ALL the others,
including the previous working cord.
Progressive Linen Stitch
Step 1: Wrap the working cord (4) around the middle two
strands (2 and 3). You should pass under them first,
ending up with the tail heading right.
Step 2: Pass th working cord under the other 3 cords.
Bring the end over cords 1 and 2, and under cord 3,
as you make your way back to the right.
Do you understand how this works yet? You simply wrap around 2 and 3, then switch to 1
and 2. The most important thing to remember is to wrap by passing under the cords first.
The more you practice, the easier it will be to tie this unique variation.
Oysterman Knot
Description: The Oysterman Knot, also called the Ashley Stopper Knot, forms
an attractive button anywhere on a cord. Developed in the early 1900s by Clifford
W. Ashley, it is a relatively easy decorative knot to make.
Most button knots are easy to tie, but complicated to tighten. Not so with this
one, which makes it very useful in many types of Macrame projects.
Step 1: You need one cord, at least 12 inches in length, to practice this decorative
knot.
Step 3: Bring the right end to the left, and pass it over the left end.
Moving clockwise, direct it under both segments, close to the crook, as you
bring it back to the right.
Step 4: To complete the Slipknot, direct it over and under the right segment of
the cord, on the right side of the knot.
Bring the right end under the left, and up towards the top.
Description: The Stevedore Knot is similar to the single Figure 8 Knot, in the
way it’s designed. That’s why it is sometimes called a Double Figure Eight. It’s
primary purpose as a Macramé knot is to finish off a project. So it is usually tied
near the end of a cord. But you could use it wherever a tight, sturdy knot is
needed, since it doesn’t untie easily. Step 1: Obtain one strand of cord, at
least 12 inches long to practice this decorative knot. Secure one end to your work
surface, on your left.
Step 3: Wrap the working end around the secured end, near the crossing point.
Step 4: Wrap the working end around a second time, then pass it through the
loop. Make sure you head into it from above, coming out beneath the crook of the
fold.
Step 5: Tighten the knot by pulling on the working cord. You may have to
help it along a bit, by pushing the loops, especially if the cord is rough in texture.
Clove Hitch
Description: The Clove Hitch has several variations which can be used in
Macrame projects. They are particularly useful as mounting knots; to attach cords
to rings or dowels. These decorative knots are used in other crafts, as well as
boating and fishing. In books devoted to decorative knotting, they are usually
listed together, and are called "constriction knots". That's because they hold on
very tight, and have snake-like twists and coils.
You can Click on the small images below, and larger ones will come up.
To practice the basic Clove Hitch, you need one cord, at least 12 inches long. You
will also need a ring, handle, or any other object to attach the knot to (base).
Step 3: Direct the working end around the base, on the left, to create another
loop.
Next, pass the end under the segment of cord that rests to the left of the crossed
area from the last step.
Pull both ends of the cord to tighten the Clove Hitch. If tied correctly, the ends will
head in opposite directions.
Constrictor Knot
Step 3: Make the bight larger and slip it over the left
end of the dowel or tube. Make sure the top of it
remains up, and you don't twist the loop.
Boa Knot
Bring the end down below the cross, and pass it under
the right segment there, too. This way the end comes
out directly below Cross 1.
Direct the end to the left, and wrap it around again the
same way.
Step 6: Tighten the knot gradually, removing the slack from the loops.The two ends
should be lined up, heading in opposite directions.
The Python
Step 5: Move the coils together and tighten the knot gradually, by pulling on the
ends.
Spanish Hitching
Description: Spanish Hitching is a unique Macrame design that uses the Clove
Hitch. I devoted an entire page to it because it's such a useful decorative knot to
know. You can use it to cover dowels and other tube-like objects, such as wine
bottles, and drinking glasses. It can also be tied in horizontal rows, similar to
Double Half Hitches. Since it is a HITCH, that means it needs to be attached to
something. In this case, the knots are tied onto a holding cord, which wraps
around the item that is being covered.
I've included instructions for tying the Clove Hitch in two different directions, in
case you need a refresher. You can click on the icons and larger images will
come up, so you can see the details better.
Pass the end under the holding cord, from the front,
heading away from you.
Now it's time to work on the actual Spanish Hitching design. First, obtain enough
working cords that will fit all the way around the dowel, if that is what you are
covering. They will be arranged lengthwise on the dowel, and the number of
cords will depend on how thick the dowel is, as well as the size of the material.
The length of these working cords needs to be 4 times whatever distance you are
covering.
For example: You are covering a section on the dowel measuring 10 inches. So
each working cord needs to be at least 40 inches long.
I used a 1-inch dowel to create the Spanish Hitching in the images, and only wanted
the design in the front. Therefore, I have 5 working cords, and 1 holding cord. I would
probably use a total of 10 working cords to cover the entire dowel. Step 1: Secure the
working cords near one edge of the dowel with tape. Make sure they can't slide out.
Secure the holding cord to the back of the dowel.
Step 3: Now you have a decision to make. You can either continue on, making
every row with left Clove Hitches, or you can alternate and use right Hitches
every other row. You can also form other patterns with Spanish Hitching, such
as 3 left, 2 right, etc.
The holding cord is wrapped around the dowel in the same direction (left to
right), but you can reverse the knots themselves at any point. That's why it's
important you know how to make the Clove Hitch both ways, in case the pattern
you are creating requires it.
Look closely at the image of the Spanish Hitching I made, at the top of the
page. The first row was made with right facing knots, and the remainder
with left Clove Hitches.
Make sure you keep the holding cord under the working cords at all times, as
you progress. Try to arrange each knot so that the crossed area shows up well.
When you are finished with the design, tuck the ends and tails under the knots, so
they can't be seen.
To make a flat Spanish Hitching design, you will need several working cords,
arranged side by side. The number of working cords you use will determine the
width of the Spanish Hitching design. The best way to determine the number you
need is to arrange them on your board until you have the width you want. You
will also need several holding cords, one for each row. So it takes a lot more
material to make a flat panel of knots than it does to cover a tube shaped item.
Slipknot
Description: The Slipknot is sometimes called the Overhand Noose. It’s been
used for many centuries, but for practical purposes rather than as a decorative
knot. It’s one of several "connection knots" used in Macrame, and can be used in
the mounting process as well.
Variations: Below are instructions for a similar technique, called the Alpine
Butterfly Knot. The knot produces a stable loop, rather than an adjustable one.
I've also included instructions for a very unique application of this decorative
knot. It's called the Ashoka Chakra knot, and it forms a decorative ring.
Click on the icons to see larger images, which come up in a new window.
Step 1: Make a clockwise loop with a piece of cord material. The working end
should be on the left when you are finished. Secure the end on the right.
Some patterns will tell you precisely where to place the loop along the cord, and
which end is the working portion.
Step 2: Make a bight with the working end. Push it through the center of the first
loop, from below (under-over).
Tighten the loop by pulling on the bight. To adjust the size of the bight, pull on
the working end.
This is a good technique to produce a stable loop, rather than a loose one. This
variation can be used for plant hangers, bell pulls, or even curtains. It can also be
used to mount cords to a ring, dowel, or similar item.
Next, bring the end up to the top, and under the second
loop.
Now you can see the triangular shape of the knot below
the the loop.
Ashoka Chakra Knot
Description: The Ashoka Chakra knot is made using only the Slipknot. It's great
for making earrings, pendants, and frames for stones, buttons and beads.
Make sure the working end passes over the tail to form
the crossing point.
Here's how to figure out the size you need to make Loop 2: Multiply the size you
need by 2, then add an inch for the loop at the top, if you need it.
Design Tip
Tie the last Slipknot with the working end, around Loop
1, as you normally would. But don't tighten it yet.
Description: The Cats Paw Hitch has the same purpose as the Larks Head Knot,
which is to mount cords to an object or holding cord. This decorative knot can be
used to attach cords to rings, dowels, and other cords. It's particularly useful in
the initial mounting process. But it can be used anywhere in a Macrame pattern,
wherever a standard Larks Head Knot is called for. You can also change the
design described below, by making more than 3 wraps.
Step 1: You'll need one strand of cord material that is at least 12 inches long, to
practice this mounting technique. Also, obtain a ring, holding cord, or dowel, to
hold the Cat's Paw Hitch.
In the images below, I used a holding cord (black), which was secured so it was
taut.
Step 2: Fold the cord in half, and lay it down under the holding cord, ring or
dowel.
The folded area (crook) needs to rest at least 1 to 2 inches below the item the
knot is being attached to.
Step 3: Bring the right end down, and begin the wrapping process by going
under the right half of the cord.
Wrap at least three times, so that you end near the crook of the fold.
Step 5: Tighten the coils so that the wrapped area is
snug.
This will help when it's time to tighten the Cats Paw
Hitch.
The ends should rest under the crook when you are
finished. Pull on the ends to tighten the knot.
Unique
Decorative Knots
Monkey Fist
You can click on the images and a larger picture will come up in a new window.
To practice this interesting knot, obtain a single cord at least 36 inches long. The left
end is considered the "tail".
Wrap the end three times around the coils you just
made in step 1 (front to back).
Tip: Like other button knots, tightening can be challenging. The first few times you
make it, don’t expect the finished product to be neat. Nylon cord slides a little better
than other materials, so try it with that material the first few times. Also, it’s easier to
make this knot with cord that is 4mm or 6mm.
Lanyard Knots
Kids will often learn this knot at camp, and they can make bracelets and
necklaces with it, since it's easy to tie.
Variations: The Single Knot, Multiple Strands, Spiral Sennit, Striped Sennit, and
the Star Pattern are all described below.
Single Knot
Step 1: To practice a single Lanyard Knot, you need two cords at least 36 inches
long. In the images below, I tied a Linked Overhand Knot to start off with. But
you can just lay the cords on your board and cross them to form an X shape.
Make sure you secure each end after you use it.
Many Macrame Patterns require you to form Lanyard knots from strands that
have already been in use. In that case, you wouldn't need to worry about forming the
X shape at all. Just follow same steps, moving in a counter-clockwise direction.
Step 3: Take the right lower segment and fold the end so it’s vertical, heading
upward. It should automatically pass over the right lower segment as you bring it
up and over the right upper segment.
Step 5: Locate the left upper segment and bring it down to the space formed in
step 2. Bring it through the space from the top, which is over - under.
Step 6: Tighten the Lanyard knot by removing the slack gradually, pulling on
each end.
This decorative knot has a square shape and is usually tightened completely in
Macrame designs.
Multiple Strands
You can make Lanyard Knots using more than two strands. Be sure you start out
with 2 groups of cords having the same number of strands. Move the ends
progressing in the same direction you did the single knot, but curve the ends
instead of folding them.
To see what I mean by curve, look at the images for the star pattern below.
The individual strands work together as a group. Make sure you arrange the
ends so they are side-by side. It's important that these Multi-Strand Lanyard
Knots look neat.
Spiral Sennit
Striped Sennit
To make a Striped Chain, alternate the direction you tie the Lanyard knots. So
every other knot is tied progressing clockwise.
In the directions for the single knot, you folded the cords one by one, moving in a
counter-clockwise direction. You started with the left lower segment. If you tie
the second, fourth, sixth, etc. starting with the right lower segment, the sennit
will look like the image above.
Make sure you do not twist the sennit, and that it's secured well. Otherwise the
alternating pattern won't be even.
Star Pattern
Lanyard Knots can be made with many strands, rather than just two. I call this one the
Star pattern. You can use as many cords as you like to create this interesting design.
Obtain 4 cords to practice. It helps to use different colors, like I did in the images below.
Step 1: Lay the strands in front of you, so the centers meet, as follows: One
vertical, the next horizontal, and the third and fourth diagonal, forming an “X”.
Mentally number the strands 1 through 8, in a clockwise direction. Secure the
centers of all the cords to your work surface.
Step 2: Curve each strand rather then making sharp folds. To begin, pass cord #1
over #2. Don't forget to leave a space for the last cord.
For each of the cords 2 through 7, make sure the one you work with passes over
the strand previously folded, as well as the one next in line to be used.
Design Tip: The star pattern is constructed just like the other Lanyard knots on this
page, only you have more cords to work with. Securing each end after you work with it,
Step 3: Direct cord #8 so it goes over #7 and into the space formed by #1.
Link Weave
Description: The Link Weave features large woven "links" that are arranged so
that one color is above another. Since it's a wide band, it can be used as a
Macrame belt or a purse handle. Other items like dog collars and paracord
bracelets can be made using this unique design.
This decorative knot looks best if made with two colors. I used vibrant green and
black Paracord in the example shown.
You need two cords, each at least 60 inches long. If you were actually making
something with the Link Weave, multiply the length you need by 6, and cut the
cords to that length.
First, you need to make a Sailor's Knot, to connect the two cords and give you
four ends to work with. Here are the instructions:
Sailor's Knot
Design Tip: Try to make sure the secured end of both cords are longer than the part
you will be working with. When I made the Link Weave for the first time, I placed the
Sailor's knot 45 inches from the secured end.
Link Weave
Step 1: Secure the Sailor's Knot to your project board, so that the ends coming
from the bottom are vertical.
Design Tip: The space in the center can be used as part of a clasp, if you are
making a bracelet with this design.
Sailors Knot
Description: The Sailors Knot is also called the Carrick Bend. Similar to a
Josephine knot, it’s a good technique to use in jewelry designs. You can even
use it to link 2 cords together, or as a mounting knot.
I’ve used this decorative knot to make bracelets, necklaces, and within the body
of some Macrame plant hanger patterns. They hold their shape better if you use
the stiffer materials, such as leather or waxed cord.
Click on any of the images and larger photos will show up so you can see the
details.
You need 2 cords to practice with, each at least 36 inches long. Using two colors
really helps.
Patterns
Step 5: Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the next row, then repeat step 4 for the
following one.
Interlocking Weave
Description: The Interlocking Weave is not really a knot. It's a type of Weaving
that is often used to make baskets. This Vintage technique can be used in
Macrame, to make items such as hammocks, pot holders and placemats. The
Tabby Weave is a similar technique.
To practice this type of weaving, you will need either 8 separate strands, or 4
cords folded in half. It really helps if you use two colors.
Triangle Knot
Description: The Triangle Knot is one of the most unique decorative knots used
in Macrame. It's a vintage knot, and I found it in a book written in 1899. I have
not seen it at all in more modern instruction books.
I found it was best to use this knotting technique in patterns that call for cords of
4mm or more. You could use this interesting knot in either an Alternating or V
Pattern, instead of Square Knots. So I added a few ideas on this page, that will
help you use this knot effectively.
To view an actual Macrame project where this knot is used, see the Triangle
Bracelet.
Step 1: To practice, you will need two cords mounted onto a ring or another
cord. Secure them to your work surface. I found it easer to practice this knot if
the cords were lying on a table. Once you get the hang of it, you can tie it with
the cords dangling freely.
Step 2: With the left cord, make a “U” shaped bend, also called a "bight", curving it to
the right. Place the right cord on top, heading vertically.
Step 3: Direct working end of the right cord under both portions of the left strand, as
you make a clockwise loop. Bring the end over the secured portion of itself, at the top
right area of the knot.
Step 4: Bring the working end down into the space created by the bight you made in
step 2. Pass over the top portion and under the bottom. Tighten gently by pulling on
both ends at the same time.
Triangle Mount
First, make the Triangle design in
the center of a cord, following the
steps described above.
Row 2: Tie the next row of Triangles using cords 2-3, 4-5,
and 6-7 to make three knots.
Portuguese Sennit
Portuguese Sennit Genoese Sennit
Description: The Portuguese Sennit is also called the Solomon Bar. Essentially,
it is a chain of Square knots, tied around a loop. When the sennit is completed,
the loop is pulled, so that the ends are secured. This technique could be utilized
anywhere you need a strong stable loop, such as in a plant hanger. It also makes a
great bracelet or cell phone decoration.
Variations: The Genoese Sennit is a related technique, but uses the Alternating
Half Hitch instead of Square Knots.
You can click on the small images and a larger picture will come up in a new
window.
The crossing point should be at the top, and you should secure it with a pin.
Step 2: Use the two ENDS to tie the first Square Knot. The loop acts as the filler
cords. Place it approximately 1/2-inch below the crossing point.
If you wish, you could use the Spiral Stitch instead of Square Knots.
Step 3: Tie several more knots, until you are close to the
fold of the loop.
Pull on the bottom loop first, to remove one of the loops at the top, unless you need
both of them. Then pull the remaining loop at the top, which will secure the ends.
Genoese Sennit
Step 1: To make the Genoese Sennit, fold a cord in half,
forming a large loop. The crossing point should be at the
top. Make sure the left crosses over the right. The size of
the loop determines the overall size of the sennit.
Step 2: Use the right end and make a Half Hitch around the
loop, which acts as the fillers. To do this, simply pass the
end over the fillers, under them, and through the space on
the right.
Step 3: Use the left working end, and make another Half
Hitch, just below the first one.
Step 4: Alternate back and forth between the two ends, and
make several more Alternating Half Hitches. Stop when you
are close to the bottom of the loop.
Step 5: Direct the ends into the bottom loop. One should go
into it from below, and the other from the top, in opposite
directions.
Step 6: Pull on the loop at the top of the design. The bottom loop will disappear and
the ends will be secured.
Masthead Mat Technique
You can click on the images and a larger picture will come up in a new
window.
Obtain a single strand of cord at least 36 inches long to practice. Note that the
Masthead Mat Technique is similar to a Pitcher Knot. You might want to
The arrows show the path of loops A and C as you complete the next two steps.
Step 4: Weave loop C to the left, passing over the left portion of loop B and
under loop A. I've indicated both portions of each loop to make it easier to
visualize.
Description: The Pitcher Knot is an interesting Macrame knot that is not very
well known. It is sometimes referred to as the Jury Mast Knot, as well as the
Bottle Sling. The name is derived from the days when it was used to make
handles for earthen pitchers and bottles. As a decorative knot, you could use it to
make a pendant, or as part of a plant hanger.Try using it as it was intended; to
hang glass bottles as wall or kitchen decorations.
Click on the images and a larger picture will come up in a new window.
Obtain a single strand of cord, at least 36 inches long. Make three counter-
clockwise loops, moving from left to right. The crossing points should be at the
bottom. Label them A, B, and C, as shown in the image below.
Note that each loop has two sides, right and left. You need to picture this so you
understand the steps.
Step 2: Direct the right side of loop A towards the right. Weave under the left
part of loop C, over the right part of loop B, and under the right part of loop C.
This will distort the loop, and the left end at the bottom will shorten slightly.
Step 3: Direct the left portion of Loop C to the left. Weave under the left portion
of loop B and over the left portion of loop A.
The next time you practice, try to do steps 2 and 3 at the same time.
Step 4: As you begin to tighten this knot, hold onto the top curved portion of
loop B while you remove the slack. This gives you the loop at the top of the knot.
If you are using this decorative knot to hang bottles, the neck of the bottle will fit
through the center of the knot. Fit the bottle first, then tighten the Pitcher knot.
Round Braid
Description: The Round Braid is very easy to make, and it's a great decorative
knot for Paracord Bracelets. If made with fine materials, you can use it to make
rings and necklaces as well.
In the images below, the yellow cord is Color A, and the blue is Color B. You
can click on them, and larger photos will come up in a new window.
Tip: The Color A cord (green) should always stay on the board, so the ends
move side to side. The Color B cord (yellow) is arranged so it moves front to
back.
If you were to turn the Color B cord sideways, the crossing point is also right to
left. But I find it easier to arrange it front to back.
Reduce the size of the first loop by pulling on the ends. If you are making a
bracelet or necklace, you can leave that loop larger, to form a clasp.
To continue, repeat steps 3 and 4, until the braid is the size you want.
Step 5: Depending on what you are making with the
Round Braid, you may need to finish it with another type
of knot. Here I used the Square Knot to secure the braid.
Clew Knot
Hammocks that are manufactured frequently contain this decorative knot, usually
between the ring and the dowels. Now you will know how to make one should
you decide to design your own unique hammock.
Step 1: To practice, fold 6 cords in half and mount them to a ring, dowel or
holding cord with Larks Head knots. Secure the design to the table or project
board. Mentally number the ends 1 thru 12, moving left to right.
Spread the cords out somewhat, and make sure they are fairly straight. If you can,
secure the bottom of them, so they are taut.
When you are finished weaving in each row, secure the end of the cord off to the
side, since it won’t be used again.
Step 2: This chart provides a general overview of the weaving process for the
Clew Knot. Just below are some tips that will help you understand the concept.
Refer to the chart and the images often as you learn how to tie this unique knot.
You can click on the small images and larger photos of the Clew Knot will
come up.
2 Left to Right 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 4, 6, 8, 10
3 Left to Right 5, 7, 9 4, 6, 8, 10
10 Right to Left 8, 6, 4 9, 7, 5
4 Left to Right 5, 7, 9 6, 8
9 Right to Left 8, 6 7, 5
5 Left to Right 7 6, 8
8 Right to Left 6 7
6&7 NO WEAVING
Tip 5: When you get to the last two ends (6 and 7), they don't need to be woven.
Just tighten the Clew Knot, by pulling on each end.
Since this knot is used in the construction of hammocks, the pattern may require
you to attach the cords to dowels. That process begins after the knot is
completely woven. You attach them in the reverse order they were woven.
In other words, the last two cords woven (6 and 7) will be in the center of the
dowel. Next, you would attach cords 8 and 5, followed by 9 and 4. Then attach
cord 10 and 3, followed by 11 and 2. The last two cords attached, near the ends of
the dowel, would be 12 and 1.
This is an image of the Clew knot in a Hammock
design.
Notice how it's small and compact, and how the ends
spread out from it. Usually the cords are attached to a
ring, followed by the knot.
Chain Sennit
Variations: I have included instructions for the Zipper Sennit, as well as the Bugle
Braid, which are very similar to the Chain Sennit.
You can click on the small images and a larger picture will show up in a new
window.
These designs can be found in JD Lenzen's new website,
Fusion Knots.
Pull on the bight to tighten the first knot. Make sure the
working end is on the left when you are finished.
Step 3: Create the next bight by folding the working end.
Push it through the one previously made, from the top.
Step 4: Repeat step 3 as many times as necessary to complete the Chain Sennit. Always
push the newest bight into the one previously made, and keep the working end on your left.
Zipper Sennit
Description: The Zipper Sennit is related to the Chain Sennit. The main difference is that
you use both ends to make alternating Bights. The other difference is that you pass
each new bight into the previous one from BELOW.
Step 5: Finish like you did with the Chain Sennit, passing
the END through the final bight. Make sure you pass into
it from below.
Bugle Braid
Description: The Bugle Braid is related to the Chain Sennit, but the process for making it
is a little different. It's a historical knot used by the military as well as band members to
make a leash for musical instruments. So it's sometimes called the Bugler's Braid.
Step 1: You need one cord that measures at least 6 times the length of the braid you
want to make. To practice, use a 72-inch cord. Fold it 10 to 12 inches from one end,
creating the first loop.
IMPORTANT: The key to making this variation of the Chain sennit is to pass the NEWEST
bight through the TWO you made previously. One will be loose and the other will have
been tightened.
Step 7: When you have used most of the material, pass
the END through the last 2 bights, similar to what you
did with the Chain Sennit.
Ladder Strap
Description: The Ladder Strap is a very unique decorative knot, suitable for many
uses in Macrame. As shown, it can be used as an interesting key chain, and for a
bracelet, belt, or purse strap. It's a strong, sturdy design, so could also be used as
part of a plant hanger, hammock, or other heavy items.
The material I used in the example is Nylon Paracord, also called Parachute
Cord.
I found the Ladder Strap on the website called
"Fusion Knots", by JD Lenzen.
Step 3: Now you will use the left end. Bring it under
all three horizontal portions of the right end, and into
the space above the knot.
Make sure the end is resting above the coils when you
are finished.
Step 5: Bring the left end down and into the loop that
is on the right.
Step 9: When you are finished, trim the ends so they are
even and finish them off with Barrel knots, and/or beads.
Panel Knot
Description: The Panel Knot is a historic decorative knot that resembles many of
the Celtic designs. It's easy to tie this woven knot, and makes a great pendant.
The ends come out at the top, so they can be used as part of a Macrame necklace.
You can click on the small images below to see larger ones.
I found this interesting knotting technique in
"Decorative Fusion Knots", written by J. D.
Lenzen.
Tip: Always start the weaving for each loop of the Panel Knot, by passing under the
first segment.
Step 4: Bring the end down towards the bottom again.
Weave through under - over - under - over.
Step 1: You need four strands of cord material, each 4 times the length you need
for the necklace or bracelet. For example: For a 10-inch bracelet, cut the cords
so they are at least 40 inches long.
Step 2: Secure the cords to a project board with pins, or use tape to hold them on
your table.
Step 3: You will need at least to use beads with holes large enough to fit 2
strands easily. Glass Crow Rollers were used in the example shown.
Mentally number the cords 1 thru 4. Pass cords 1 and 4 through a bead. Slide it
up as far as you can, close to where the cords were secured.
Step 4: Pass cords 2 and 3 through another bead.
When you slide it up, make sure it fits between cords
1 and 4.
When you add new beads, make sure you alternate the
strands, directing them over the ones previously used.
Step 5: Pass cords 1 and 4 through the next bead. It will fit between cords 2 and
3.
Step 6: Repeat steps 4 and 5 over and over until the necklace or bracelet is the
size you want.
He has written this great book, and you can visit his
website to get more information.
Click on the images below and larger ones will show up in a new window.
Take the left end and pass it under both sides of the
loop, making sure it goes over the right end as you
bring it to the right.
Step 6: Flip the Bug Belly Bar over and turn it so the loop
is at the top. The right end should be exiting the loop over
the right edge.
Step 9: Repeat steps 7 and 8 on the left side of the Bug Belly Bar, weaving the
left end through.
To make a key ring, trim the ends so they are the same size, and pass beads over
each one. Tie a Barrel Knot near the tips to hold the beads in place.
The loop at the top is passed through the ring holding the keys. Fold the bar and
ends through the loop, making a Larks Head knot.
Trilobite Knot
Trilobite Knot Trilobite Fossil
Description: The Trilobite Knot is a very unique decoration you can use in key
chains, necklaces, cell phones, and many other Macrame projects. Kids will love
this interesting decorative knot, since it is very easy to make, and will definitely
attract attention.
Step 3: Take the two ends and make the first half of
a Square Knot around the central loop. It should be
placed approximately 1-inch from the fold.
Step 4: Take the end that is now on the left, and bring
it around in a clockwise direction.
Step 5: Use the right end next, and bring it towards the
left heading counter-clockwise. Weave it under the right
and left segments, and over the area in the center.
Step 6: Repeat steps 4 and 5 over and over to form
the rest of the Trilobite knot.
I marked the path of the right end with red X's so you
can understand the photo better.
Step 7: Repeat Step 6 one more time.
Step 8: Flip the first half of the Clasped Hands Knot over.
The end you were just using should now be on the left.
Step 9: You will use the end that is now on the right.
Bring it under the left end in a clockwise circle. Pass
it through the COILS you made in the previous steps.
When you pull the end through, it will rest on the
right again.
Step 10: Repeat step 9 again, bringing the right end under
the left, and through the coils in a clockwise direction.
Step 11: Tighten the Clasped Hands Knot by pulling on the
ends and/or the loop. Adjust the coils as needed so the
knot looks neat.
Wrapped Ring
This strong decorative knot is easy to tie and can be used at the top of items like
wind chimes, and light weight plant hangers. It's best to make it first, then you
can use the ends for the other knots.
I found it in a book called "Decorative Fusion
Knots" by J. D. Lenzen.
Make the loop the size you want the Barrel Ring to be
when it is finished.
Step 2: Use the right end to wrap the right half of the
loop. Make sure the wraps are snug and close together.
End the wrapping at the top of the loop.
Step 3: Use the left end to wrap the left half of the loop.
Step 4: Push the coils close together to tighten and
adjust the loop. If necessary, add a few more wraps
with each end. Tie a knot to secure the ends. You can
use an Overhand knot, or a Square Knot.
Bush Bar
Description: The Bush Bar is a very easy Macrame technique to learn. It's a
great decorative knot that you can use to make bracelets and chokers. A BAR is a
sennit, or chain of knots, that has a flat rectangular shape. So this design can also
be used to make belts, straps for purses, and anywhere you need a sturdy band of
knots.
In the Micro-Macrame section of this site, you will find a bracelet design using
this interesting knotting technique.
I found this knot in the website called Fusion
Knots.There is a great knot library that contains tutorials
for a variety of very unique and appealing designs.
Step 3: Take the RIGHT end and direct it over the right
end. Pass it under the left half of the large loop. Pass it
over the right end in the center, and under the right half
of the large loop. Pass over the portion of the left end that
sits at the far right.
Another way to look at this important step is to pass over every part of the left end.
Pass it under both parts of the large loop.
Step 4: Tighten the first knot by pulling on the ends. To
continue, simply repeat steps 2 and 3 until the Bush Bar is
the size you need.
Design Tip: In the image at the top of the page, the band at the top is tightened more
than the one on the bottom. It's best to leave a little space so the design shows up
better. You can also arrange the knots close together, but the cord will need to be
longer.
Rattlesnake Bar
Determine how long you want the knot to be when it's finished. Cut one cord 8 times
that size.
The right portion of the cord should be the same size as the loop. It's resting on the
left in this image. The left portion needs to be much longer, since it's the working end.
Step 3: You will use the long end (left) to make the
horizontal coils. Start on the right and move towards
the left side of the knot.
Direct it under the right end (3), and under the right
side of the loop (2).
Step 4: Circle the working end completely around
segment 2, passing under it as you bring it to the left.
Step 6: Trim the ends to 1-inch and use tweezers to work them under the knots. If
using Paracord, heat the tips to secure. For other materials, use glue to hold the ends in
place.
Eternity Knot
Description: The Eternity Knot is a wonderful decorative knot that can be used
on a single cord. It's a great knot to use in Micro-Macrame jewelry designs,
especially between beads.
In the Micro-Macrame section of this site, you will find an actual jewelry project
featuring this knot. It's called the Eternity Knot Necklace.
Click on the images below and larger ones will come up in a new window.
Make sure the left passes over the right to make the
crossing point at the bottom. Secure the end that is
now on the left.
Step 2: Use the working end, which is on the right.
Design Tip: Sometimes it's easier to make the Eternity knot in your hand rather
than on a surface. In that case, make sure the bight is facing toward you, with the
working end on the right. Pass the end through the bight from front to back.
Design Tip: When you are just learning this decorative knot for the first time, the
loop should be around 2 to 3 inches in size.
Before moving on to the next step, make sure the secured end is the one on the
bottom, especially if you made the knot in your hand.
Step 5: Make a figure eight design with the large loop
by moving the top portion over the bottom.
Making Fringe
When making Fringe, you must first learn how to tie Macrame knots in general. The
official definition is: “A decorative border of thread, cord, or the like, usually hanging
loosely from a ravelled edge or separate strip.” Well, that’s not quite right, since in
Macrame it comes from a finished edge, but you get the point.
This technique was very popular in the early days of this craft. The term
Macrame comes from the Arabic word “miqrama” which can be translated to
mean “ornamental fringe”. Most of the books I’ve found with Vintage Macrame
patterns use the technique often in purses, pillows, scarves, wall hangings, etc.
There are several techniques you can use when making Fringe. Below are a few details
to consider.
Beaded Fringe
For a more decorated appearance, when you are making
Fringe, try adding beads to the dangling ends. Thread a small
bead onto each individual cord. Then tie an Overhand knot,
and feed the cord back through the hole. This gives you a very
neat edge.
This image shows a fringed door curtain. The beads are placed to
form a diamond design in the center, rather than at the bottom.
Fluffed Fringe
Adding Cords
Adding cords in the body of a project is a Macrame technique seldom described in
books devoted to this craft. For someone with experience, increasing the number of
cords at any point in the pattern is no problem at all. But a beginner might find these
important techniques a challenge, which is why I am addressing the topic.
The terms Mount and Hitch mean to attach one cord to another one, or to a ring,
dowel, or similar object. So the first step in most Macrame projects is called the
Mounting Process. You will start with a certain number of cords to begin
knotting.
The term Adding Cords means to attach extra strands somewhere in the overall
design, after the mounting stage. There are several ways that this is
accomplished:
These techniques are described on this page, so be sure to read to the end. This is
an IMPORTANT part of learning Macrame, so be sure to study and practice
these techniques.
You can click on the small images and new photos will show up in a new
window.
You may be asked to attach the cords to something, such as a ring or a dowel, in
the body of the pattern. Adding cords is easy in that case. Mount the extra
strands to the object, beside or between the other strands you’ve been working
with.
Larks Head knots and Double Half Hitches are the most common knots used
for this type of addition.
Tip #1: Try to match the knots when adding new strands
to the other ones in the area. They need to blend in. This
is especially important if you are adding more than 2
cords.
When adding cords, you must take this into account. Be prepared to add cords in
more than one area, even if the pattern is not specific.
It's important to remember this concept, so you don't up with lopsided patterns.
Once you are finished, it’s usually too late to remedy a mistake.
The most common decorative knot used for adding cords to existing strands is the
Square Knot. You see this technique frequently in Macrame patterns, so be sure
you know how to add cords in this manner:
Step 2: Use the new strand to tie the first half of the
Square Knot, onto the existing one.
Another way to use a Square Knot is to fold the new cord in half, and place it beside
two existing ones. The knot is then tied with all four cords.
Step 1: Pass the new cord over and under the existing
one. Bring it down to make the 2nd half.
Step 2: Pass the new cord under and over the existing
one.
You simply wrap a new cord around one that has already been in use. As you tie
more knots with the original strands, the new one is secured.
When the next Square Knot was tied for the strap, the
new one was held in place.
Creating Tassels
When Creating Tassels you
must first learn the knots used in
Macrame, especially the
different types of Button knots.
The first section provides you with a few tips to consider when creating Tassels.
Further down on the page are the instructions for 6 different designs that can be
used.
You can click on any of the small icons below, and a larger image will come
up, showing the details more clearly.
General Information
Tip #2: When creating Tassels, you will usually start off with a bundle of slender cords
(1mm or less). I like to use 8 to 10 strands, which work together as if they were one
cord. Tip #3: Sometimes you will use a combination of knots when creating Tassels. In
the instructions below, one uses the Overhand Knot along with a Half Hitch. Another
combines the Lanyard Knot with the Linen Stitch.
Tip #4: Neatness is very important. The ends need to be
trimmed evenly and coated with glue to prevent
unraveling.
Creating Tassels with the Knife Knot is one of the best techniques I have ever
used, so I listed it first. This knot is very pretty, and there is a loop at the top.
Cut 8 or more strands of 1mm material, each 36 inches long. Secure one end of
the bundle to the board, with tape rather than pins. Mentally label the secured
end as the "tail" and start the first loop at least 8 inches from that end.
Tip: If you apply tape around the cords at both ends, the bundle is easier to work
with.
Step 1: Create Loop 1 in a counter-clockwise
direction. Bring the working end over the first part of
the bundle as you come down to make Loop 2.
Step 2: Take both ends of the 2mm cord, and make a Half Hitch around the
bundle, approximately ½ inch from the fold. You can make a second one if you
wish.
Apply glue to the knot. When it's dry, cut off the excess from the 2mm cord.
Trim the Tassel so the ends are neat.
Lanyard Knot Tassel
Creating Tassels can be a fun project all on it's own. While I was practicing some new
knots I was unfamiliar with, I made a Tassel using the Lanyard Knot. Here are the
Step 1: Arrange a group of 8 cords so they form an “X” shape. Tie a Lanyard
Knot, using the four segments.
Step 2: Bring all the ends together under the knot. Use 1
strand to secure the entire bundle with the Linen Stitch. Apply glue to the wrapped
portion, and allow to dry. Trim the Tassel so the ends are even and neat.
Manrope Tassel
Here's another great method for creating Tassels. I recently learned how to tie the
Manrope knot, so I decided to give it a try. It worked out extremely well, so here are
the directions:
Oysterman Tassel
Creating Tassels will definitely help you practice some unique knots. The Oysterman
knot is a very easy button knot to make, and is rarely seen in modern Macrame
patterns. Here are instructions for creating this interesting Tassel:
The ends above the knot can be tied to form a loop. The ones below are the dangling
portion of the tassel, and should be trimmed neatly.
By securing the cords in this manner, you don't have to worry about damaging
the fibers. So it's great for materials such as Satin, Silk, Leather and other delicate
types of cord materials.
Step 1: You need a piece of scrap cord large enough
to make one loop, to practice this technique. I used
Satin Cord in this example.
You can use this technique at any place on the loops, not just at the crossing points.
It's also a great way to secure loops that have been doubled, so you don't end up with a
large number of pins.
CHINESE
MACRAME KNOTS
Cloverleaf Knot
<<
FLOWER
KNOT
FOUR
LEAF
CLOVER
>>
(Tightened)
Description: The Cloverleaf Knot is sometimes called the Flower Knot, since
the loops don't need to be completely tightened. It is the most important
decorative knot in Chinese Macrame. It’s vital for you to know how to tie it if
you plan to combine the Chinese knots into unique patterns. It’s the equivalent of
knowing how to make Square Knots. Practice both variations repeatedly until you
are completely familiar with tying them.
Variations: The Cloverleaf can be tied to make three or four loops. Both
techniques are described below.
You can click on the small images and a large picture will come up in a new
window.
You’ll need one cord, at least 60 inches long, to practice the standard Triple Loop
Cloverleaf Knot. I highly recommend you use a Project Board and pins to help
you control the loops. Secure each one as you make them, at the crook, which is
the curved portion.
Note: The folds, which are called "Bights", are narrow. The Loops are round, and
have a crossing point.
Step 1: Fold the cord in half at the center.
If you wish, you can make the first fold closer to the secured end, which is on
the right in this image.
As you bring the end to the right, pass under the secured end.
Step 3: Make a bight on the right, as you bring the working end back to the left.
Pass under the right part of the first fold, and over the left portion.
Step 4: Make the second LOOP at the top, by rotating the end clockwise and
down.
As you do so, pass over the upper part of the bight you made in step 3, and
under the bottom of it.
The working end should be to the right of the secured end at this point.
Step 5: Make another bight by bringing the working end up to the top right area
of the Cloverleaf knot. As you do so, pass the end under and over the two
segments of the bight you made in step 3.
Tip: It's the same path the cord went in step 4, only the opposite direction.
Step 6: To make loop 3, bring the working end clockwise, heading left. Pass it
over and under the last bight you made, over the secured end, and over loop 1.
The weaving sequence is shown in red.
Bring the working end back to the right, passing under the right portion of
Loop 1. Pass under the secured end, and through the bight made in step 5, which
is under- over. The weaving for this portion of the Cloverleaf knot is shown in
blue.
Step 7: Keep the three large loops secured, but remove the pins from the other
areas. Tighten the center first, by pulling on the loops, as well as the ends.
Next, adjust the size of the loops one at a time, in the order they were made.
Four Leaf Clover
Four Leaf Clovers are readily found in most pastures, and it's fun to have one
among your household decorations. They symbolizes luck and fortune. It's really
easy to make one, once you know how to create the Triple Cloverleaf knot. So
practice that one first until you are very comfortable with it. Step 1: Follow the
instructions at the top of the page. This version has one additional step, so you
Step 2: Make the fourth loop by rotating the working end clockwise and upward.
It should rest to the right of the secured end.
Pass over the first segment you come to, under the next two, and through Loop 2
(over - under).
Step 3: Remove the pins from the center, and leave them on the 4 outer loops.
Pull on each one, as well as the ends, to tighten the center.
Note that the ends head in opposite direction is this variation of the Cloverleaf
knot.
Step 4: Reduce the size of the loops one at a time. You
can tighten the loops completely, as shown, or leave
them larger to make a flower shape.
Brocade Knot
Description: The Brocade Knot is a very unique Chinese Knot that resembles a
flower. This is a CHALLENGING decorative knot that requires time to master.
You can use this knot to decorate other projects, or to make jewelry. Try tying a
chain of them as part of a belt. Or create a special bookmark with an Oriental
flair.
To succeed, you need to understand the difference between a loop and a bight, so
be sure to review these terms by viewing the Macrame Dictionary.
When designing this unique knot, be sure to use some type of Project Board that
can hold pins. You’ll need them to help you control the loops.
You can click on any of the small images for the Brocade Knot, and a larger
photo will show up in a new window.
To practice the Chinese Brocade Knot, you’ll need a long cord, at least 72 inches
long. Locate the center and secure it to your board directly in front of you.
Secure all the loops as you make them, and mentally label each bight or loop as
shown in the images. Make everything large at first, so you have room to
maneuver the cord.
Step 2: Create Loop 2 on the right, in a clockwise direction. Pass the working
end under to create the loop.
Direct the working end under both parts of Loop 1 as you bring it to the top left
area of the knot.
Step 3: Direct the working end back down towards the lower tight, forming
Bight B. It should rest between Bight A and Loop 1.
Bring the working end back to the lower right, passing over everything in its
path.
Step 4: Direct the working end into loop 1 from below, passing under the right
side of the loop. Next, bring it back down towards the bottom of the knot, passing
over everything in its path.
The working end should come to rest to the right of the secured end, which you
will be using next. So secure it before moving on to make the next portion of the
Brocade Knot.
Step 5: Take the left end of the cord, which had been secured, and direct it up to
the top of the Brocade knot. It should pass into Bight A from below (under -
over), and out over the top of Bight B. This will form Bight C at the lower left
portion of the knot.
Step 6: To create Loop 4 on the left, pass the working end through Bights A and
C as you bring it to the right (over - under). Pass over the secured end.
Tip: Once you get beyond the secured end, the cord goes in the same path as
the previous step, but in the opposite direction ( UNDER - UNDER - OVER
- OVER ).
This step results in Bight D, on the lower right, which nestles inside Loop 3.
Step 8:Take the working end and rotate it back to the right side of the Brocade
knot, forming Loop 5. Direct the end through Bights C and D (over - under).
Another way to look at the sequence would be: OVER - OVER - UNDER the
crossed portion - and OVER the secured end.
Step 9: Bring the working end back towards the lower left, passing through
Loop 2 (Over - Under). Pass under both parts of Loop 3, and under the secured
end.
Pass through Bight D (under - over), and the same with Bight C.
Step 10: Remove the pins from the bights and both
ends. Leave them on the five loops. Tug on the loops and ends to tighten the
Step 11: Reduce the size of each loop one at a time, by following the path of the
cord through the knot.
Don't rush the tightening process, since it's the most important step of the
Brocade Knot.
You should practice constructing this important Chinese Macrame knot several times,
first designing it on a surface. As you become comfortable with it, try holding it as
you make the loops.
You can click on the icons and larger pictures will show up in a new window.
Description: The Chinese Snake Knot symbolizes good fortune, due to the fact that
you are considered lucky if a snake is found in your home. The snake is considered
the guardian of treasure and riches, so it’s not surprising that traditonal Chinese
craftsmen have a knot named after that creature.
This unique decorative knot is not seen in traditional Macrame projects. I added
these instructions for it because it makes a beautiful chain. This knot can be used as
a purse handle, as part of a handcrafted necklace, or even as a slender belt.
You can click on the images and a large picture will show up in a new window.
You will need 2 strands of cord, at least 36 inches long to practice the Chinese Snake
knot. The design looks best if there are two colors, but it can be made with one. In
the images, Cord 1 is blue, and Cord 2 is brown.
The key to remembering the steps is to ALWAYS FLIP THE KNOT OVER
FIRST.
Next, use the working cord on the right. Pass it under the working end of the other
cord before you rotate it around clockwise.
Always pass the end into the loop previously made, which will be on the right.
You tighten this knot as you progress.
Description: The Chinese Step Knot, also known as the Triple Connection
Knot, is a decorative knot that resembles a bead when completed. You can use it
as a finishing knot, at the tips of the cords you are working with. But it can be
tied anywhere on a strand of material. I've also seen it used to connect two cords,
by tying it with both strands together, as if they were one cord.
This Chinese Macrame knot works best if the cord material is more than 4mm in
diameter, otherwise it doesn’t show up well. It looks great if you are using Satin
Rattail Cord, which has a beautiful sheen and is very soft and luxurious.
You can click on the images, and larger pictures will show up in a new
window.
You need one strand of cord material, at least 12 inches long to practice.
Step 1: Secure one end to your board. This is called the standing end.
Use the other end to make a clockwise loop, so that the crossing point is on the
left. Make sure you secure the crossing point.
Step 2: Wrap the working end around the standing end three times, moving right
to left.
Step 3: Pass the working end through the loop (on the right), going into it from
the top.
I moved the loop down slightly, so you could see the details better.
Description: The Cross Knot is one of the easiest Chinese Macrame techniques. On
one side, it looks like a cross, on the other side, a diamond shape. You can tie
alternating rows of this decorative knot to make a really beautiful pattern.
Take the right portion of the cord and bring it under the
left, making a “P” shaped loop. Bring the cord over and
back towards the right.
Step 2: Take the left end and bring it up through the loop
at the top, going over both segments.
Step 5: Hold both ends in one hand, and the large loop (top) in the other. Pull gently, and
with equal force, to tighten the Cross knot.
Diamond Stitch
Description: The Diamond Stitch takes advantage of the design on the back of the
Cross Knot. It’s tied a bit differently, though, and does not have a loop. In some
Vintage Macrame books, it’s found under the name Square Stitch, which can get a
bit confusing, particularly if your pattern calls for Square Knots as well as this
technique. See the Vintage Basket for a pattern that uses this unique decorative knot.
Step 1: To practice, secure one end of two strands to your project board, at the top.
They should be vertical.
Step 3: Now take the right cord (Purple), and direct the
end through fold 2 horizontally.
Description: The Winged Cross Knot looks great either direction. One side has a cross
shape, and the other a square. It's made a little bit differently, and there are two loops.
Step 1: Fold a 45-inch cord in half to form a bight. Lay it on
your work surface horizontally. The working end will be the
one on the bottom, so secure the other end.
You can click on the images and a large picture will come up in a new
window.
Step 2: Use the right portion as the working end. Direct it in a clockwise
direction, passing under the left portion of the cord.
Further up, closer to the fold, pass over both portions. Bring the end down to
form the first loop. Pass the end under and over to complete it.
Design Tip: Notice that you just made a Slipknot, but in a unique manner.
Tighen it slightly by pulling on the ends. The loop at the top should be the size
you need for the Macrame project you are working on.
Pass it under the right one, just below the Slipknot you made in step 2.
Step 4: Direct the left end towards the right side of the knot, in a clockwise
direction. Bring it into the center of the first loop from below (under - over).
Pass it under the upper portion of the same end you are working with (left). This
forms the second loop.6
Step 5: To tighten the Double Connection knot, pull both the ends and the folded
portion at the top. Make sure you do so with equal force. Otherwise, the loop
will be either too long or short.
If necessary, you can adjust the size of the upper loop by removing the slack from
one area at a time, following the path of the cord.
Hanger Knot
Description: The Hanger Knot is used for both decoration, and for making a
stable loop to hang something with. You can tighten this Chinese knot to make
three loops, which is handy if you want to make something like wind chimes, for
example. It’s essentially two Overhand Knots linked together, and is sometimes
seen in Chinese Macrame patterns under the name "True Lover's Knot".
You can click on the images and a large picture will come up in a new
window.
Step 1: Obtain a single cord at least 30 inches long. Secure one end of it to a
project board or table, with pins or tape.
The Three-Loop Variation is tied in the same way as above. The only
Step 1: Begin by making the knot, following steps 1 through 3 above. Don't
tighten it yet.
Secure the loop at the top to your project board. Spread the knots so you can
clearly see the crook (curved portion) of both Overhand knots. The arrows
indicate which way they will move in the next step.
Step 2: Direct the crook of the left OH knot through the crossed area of the right
OH knot.
Repeat this with the crook of the right knot, bringing it through the left knot.
Step 3: Adjust all three loops by pulling the slack out gradually. You’ll be
left with two ends at the bottom of the Hanger Knot.
Plafond Knot
You can click on the small images and a larger picture will come up in a new
window, showing the details of the Plafond Knot.
Obtain a single length of cord at least 60 inches long to practice this interesting
decorative knot. Use a Project Board and pins to help control the loops. Make
sure you know how to tie Square Knots before you get started.
Step 1: Fold the cord in half, so you have two ends. Move
down 4 inches, and tie a Half Knot. That's the first half of a Square knot. This will create
a large loop.
Step 2: Tie another Half knot 2 inches below the first. Move down 4 inches, and
tie a third one. Make one final Half knot 2 inches lower.
Turn the entire design upside down on your project board, so the large loop is
at the bottom. Setting up the Plafond knot is very important, so take your time
with this step.
Step 3: Take the Half Knot at the top (and the ends) and
fold it down into the middle section. The second Half knot will be at the top now.
Step 4: The black stick shows the center of the same two Half
knots. That's the area where the loop will pass through in the next step.
Step 5: Pass the large loop at the bottom through the two Half Knots at the top
(where the black stick was placed). Secure the loop.
The lower Half Knots will end up folded just like step 3, into the middle section.
Step 6: Pass the right END through the center of the two
Half Knots at the bottom. The space is indicated by the black stick, and the blue arrow
shows the direction. Be sure to pass under the right segment of cord that's above the
area, as you head into the Half Knot. It's marked with a blue "R". Repeat the process
with the END on the left. The only difference is that you need to pass over the segment
of cord above that area, before entering into the Half Knots. It's marked with a blue "L"
Next, remove the slack from the two loops at the sides of the knot.
The top loop is last, and can be tightened to any size, depending on how you plan to
use it. The Plafond Knot makes an interesting key chain or a cell phone loop. You simply
pass the large loop to the ring, and make a Larks Head to secure it.
Mystic Knot
Description: The Chinese Mystic Knot is sometimes referred to as the Pan
Chang Knot. It represents the endless cycle of nature. This decorative knot is
one of the most highly used techniques in Chinese Macrame. This interesting
design can be used to make a clasp for a purse, to decorate wind chimes, or to
make a pendant for a necklace. Try making it with Satin Rayon Cord (Rattail) for
a very beautiful Macrame design.
Click on the small images and a larger picture will come up in a new
window. This will help you see the details more clearly.
Note: In the images, you will see terms you may not be familiar with:
Look them up in the Macrame Dictionary, if you need more information. The
bights in the images will have numbers, and the loops will have letters.
You will need a Project Board and pins to help you control the cords. Cut one
cord at least 72 inches long to practice this technique. Secure every loop and fold
with a pin, or wrap the cord around bulletin board pins, as in the photos.
Step 1: Find the center of the cord and secure it to the board. In the image below,
that's the area marked with the word "center". It needs to be a wide fold, so if you
use bulletin board pins, make sure it goes around two of them. It will be labeled
Bight 1 in the images.
Take the right end and direct it down (vertically), then back up, making a narrow
fold (Bight 2). Do the same with the left end (Bight 3). You can see this in the
image below. Secure the left end for now.
Step 2: Take the right end, and form Loop A in the
upper right corner of the Mystic Knot. You will be moving clockwise. Weave the
end horizontally, alternating over and under the 4 vertical segments, as you bring
the cord to the left. Make Bight 4 as you bring the end back to the right side, just
below. Make sure the end follows the same path, so the under - over sequence is
the same.
Step 3: Make Bight 5 on the right. If you use bulletin board pins, direct the cord
around 2 of them, since it needs to be wider. This fold will be in the middle
section of the Mystic Knot.
Direct the cord left, following the same under - over sequence as in step 2. Bring
the end back to the right to create Bight 6, also with the same sequence. Secure
the right end to your board.
Bring the end back to the left, passing under the four segments. This creates
Bight 9.
Tip: You should be able to see the overall concept of the Mystic Knot now,
consisting of circular loops on the outside, along with the wide folds. The narrow
folds are on the inside, and make up the center of the knot.
Step 7: Head back towards the bottom of the design by going under the first
segment at the top. Go over the top part of Bight 8, and under the top of Bight 4.
Then go under the lower portions. The path of this weaving is marked in
BLUE.
Repeat this process exactly, when you get down to Bight 6 and Loop C.
Step 8: Bring the end back up to the top of the Mystic knot, passing around
Bight 3. This new area of weaving nestles inside Bight 1, which is wider. The
over - under sequence is marked in RED going UP and BLUE as you come
DOWN.
The weaving can be changed, but make sure you alternate more on the downward
pass.
Step 10: Remove the pins from the inner, narrower bights first. Pull on the
round loops in the corners as well as the wide bights as you begin tightening.
They will become very large. Follow the cord throughout the design, removing
the slack from each loop as you progress. The Mystic Knot is supposed to have a
snugly weaved square in the middle and 7 loops on the outside, which are
marked with the pink X's in the image above.
Pagoda Knot
Step 5: Take the end that is now on the right, and pass it
through Loop 4, from below (under - over).
Step 6: Take the end that's resting on the left, and pass it
through Loop 1, from above (over - under).
Step 10: Flip the design over. Tighten the Pagoda Knot
gradually, removing the slack from the loops in the order
they were made. Then ends will come out of the knot at
the top.
Pipa Knot
Next, bring the end down and make the 6th loop at the
bottom in a counter-clockwise direction. It should
nestle inside Loop 4.
Tug on the ends to tighten the knot, but make sure the
loops remain flat and do not overlap. The reason you
make it small is so that you don't need to tighten it
very much.
To make a Pipa Knot clasp, simply make a Chinese Button Knot with the long end,
tying it around the short tail a few times. Make the knot again for the second half of the
clasp, but secure the ends to the back of the knot with glue. The button knot fits
through Loop 1 at the top of the design.
Crown Knot
Description: The Chinese Crown Knot is sometimes called the Shamrock Knot. It
has loops along the outside that resemble flower petals.
This design is very similar to a Lanyard Knot, which is a basic Macrame knot.
Those are sometimes called Crown knots, too, but don't have the loops.
You can create this beautiful Macrame knot with any number of loops, so I have
included two variations of this interesting knot for you to try.
You can click on the images and a large picture will come up in a new window.
You will need a Project board and pins. To practice, you need one cord at least 72
inches long (2 yards). Using 2mm to 4mm cord will make the knot less bulky. In the
images, I used 3mm Paracord material.
Make another Crown Knot, rotating clockwise this time. Start the process with the
ends, mentally re-numbering the cords as shown.
Step 11: Tighten the knot and reduce the size of the
second set of loops one at a time.
Steps 2 - 7: Here are images of how the folds are positioned when you fold them
over the next one in line:
Crown Designs
Triskelion Knot Tea Cup Knot Good Luck Spiral
Description: These three Crown Designs are variations of the Chinese Crown
Knot. They have three parts instead of four, which makes them unique. The
Triskelion Knot is triangular, and the Good Luck Spiral is round or oval shaped,
but with triangular elements.
Crown Designs are usually fairly flat, but the Tea Cup knot looks like a real cup.
It can actually hold small items, so makes a good setting for beads or stones. To
make it larger, simply use heavy 6mm cord material.
Triskelion Knot
Step 6: Take the ends next and bring them down and
to the right, to Space C. Make sure they pass over
Bight 2.
You can apply glue to the bottom of the Tea Cup, and
cut off the ends. Or you can weave them into the
overall design.
Tighten and adjust the Tea Cup Knot until it is the size and
shape you want.
Maedate Knot
Description: This Maedate Knot is a well known Asian design that represents the
insignia or badge of a Samurai Kabuto, which is a helmet. Some of these
emblems represented familes, while others represented ranks or professions.
Round forms like this knot represent the sun or moon. As a decorative knot, this
interesting technique is very unique and makes an appealing decoration for
almost any Macrame project.
Click on the small images and larger ones will come up in a new window.
This is what the Maedate knot should look like when you
are finished moving the two segments.
Step 5: Tighten the knot and adjust the size of the loops
by pulling on the ends gently.
CELTIC KNOTS
Description: The Celtic Button Knot is a relatively simple decorative knot to tie.
Tightening it can be a challenge, though, so be sure you have no distractions when you
practice. Most Button Knots are used for clothing decorations and jewelry. They are
also frequently used as finishing knots to hide the ends of cords.
You can click on any of the images below and a larger photo will show up in
a new window.
Step 2: Make a second counter-clockwise loop with the working end. Position it
so it rests on top of the first. It should be slightly to the right, creating three
spaces. Identify the space in the center, which is marked with an X in the
image.
Step 3: Bring the working end around again to make a third loop (counter-
clockwise).
Weave the end through, alternating over and under the four segments as shown.
Tip: One thing I always try to remember is to pass under - over the two segments
associated with the central space. This applies to both the third and fourth steps.
Step 4: Rotate the working end around a final time, making the fourth counter-
clockwise loop.
Pass the end through the loops, paying close attention to the central space marked
with the X. Pass it into Loop 3 (over), and out through that central space.
Step 5: Now for the challenging part. Spread the coils so that you can see the four
loops clearly. Start at the secured end and remove the slack from each loop in the
order they were made. Take your time and just follow the cord inch by inch, until a
round knot is created.
Sliding Celtic Button Knot
The Sliding Celtic Button Knot is tied in the same way. The difference is that
there is a holding cord running through it. If you were making a necklace using
two cords, one would be the holding cord, and the other used to tie the knot. You
can use this decorative knot to form a clasp for a necklace as well, since you can
use as many holding cords as you need.
Step1: To practice this variation of the Celtic Button knot, obtain 2 strands of
material. Secure both of them at the left end, to your work surface, resting
horizontally. Secure the right end of one strand as well, making sure it is taut.
This will be the holding cord, and will not be used to tie the knot (Purple in the
images below).
Step 2: Using the working cord, make the first loop rotating counter-clockwise.
Pass under the holding cord, and then over, slightly to the left.
Make sure the working end passes over to make the crossing point, which should
be below the holding cord.
Step 3: Make the second loop exactly the same as the first one, passing under
the holding cord first. Place it to the right of the first loop and partly on top. You
need to have three distinct spaces as shown.
As you bring the working end down, it should pass over the holding cord.
Step 4: Start the third loop to the right of the second one. First, pass the working
end under the holding cord. Next, weave the end through the three spaces by
going over - under - over - under.
Arrange the loops so you can see the central space clearly (marked with an
X).
Step 5: Make the fourth loop by first passing under the holding cord.
Weave the end through, going into Loop 3, by passing over the first segment.
Bring it under the other segments, so the end comes out through the central space.
The working end should pass over the two segments on the far left.
Tighten the Celtic Button Knot gradually, removing the slack from the loops in
the order they were made.
Figure Eight Patterns
Description: Figure Eight Patterns form some of the most interesting designs
seen in Macrame. This Celtic symbol represents the concept of eternity, because
they can literally go on forever.
These decorative knots are usually made in chains. A sennit of Figure Eights will
have the interlaced weaving common to all Celtic Knots.
Single knots are used as finishing knots and for linking cords to one another.
To see a pattern where this Macrame knot is used, check out the Figure Eight
Bracelet.
These Figure Eight Patterns are described below: Single Knot, Figure Eight
Tuck, Fisherman's Knot, and the Vertical and Horizontal Chains.
You can click on the images and a large picture will come up in a new
window.
Make a counter-clockwise loop for the bottom half of the Figure 8. Bring the
working end over the secured end.
Start the second loop a little further up, by passing the working end under the
secured end, from left to right.
Step 2: Bring the working end down, and direct it into the first loop from the top
(over - under).
Step 2: Take the working end and bring it up to the top loop of
the Figure 8. Pass it into the loop from below (under - over).
Step 3: Take the pins off the secured end. Bring it down into the
bottom loop. Enter into the loop from the top (over - under).
Step 4: Tighten the knot gradually, by pulling on the ends. Try to hold the knot flat as
you remove the slack.
Fisherman's Knot
Step 1: Lay two cords on your work surface horizontally, securing the ends on your
left. One will be a filler cord (Red), and the other will be the working cord (Blue).
Make the first loop of the figure 8 with the working cord,
in a clockwise direction. Pass it under the filler, over it,
and over the working cord to make the first cross.
Next, bring the working end towards the left, rotating counter-clockwise. Pass under
the filler cord as well as the opposite end of the same cord you are working with.
Bring the end through the first loop by passing under the
upper portion, over the filler cord, and over the bottom
portion.
Step 3: Tighten the knot gradually to prevent it from bunching up. It should look
like an X shape even when tightened completely.
Design Tip: Figure Eight Patterns usually look best when loosely tied, but this
one is an exception; it should be tight.
Vertical Chain
Step 1: You need a long piece of cord at least 50 inches long. Secure the left end to a
Project Board or table. In the images below it's called a "Tail".
Make sure you pass under the segment on the far left as
you direct the end back up to create the next loop at the
top.
Make sure you pass the end under as you bring it back to
the bottom area for the next loop.
Step 5: Repeat steps 2 - 4 over and over, until the sennit is the size you need.
Horizontal Chain
Step 1: Make the first clockwise loop a few inches from the secured end.
Direct the working end under the secured end to complete the loop. Secure the
crossing point.
Step 2: Bring the working end over the secured end, and
make a second loop, heading counter-clockwise. Step 3:
Bring the working end under Loop 1, so it crosses through the center of the loop, at the
knot.
Step 5: Direct the working end through loop 1, by passing over - under - over
the three segments.
Step 6: The large loop should remain in place after you complete step 5. You will
have a tendency to make it too small, so adjust it as needed.
Design Tip: When using Leather, Silk or Satin materials, make sure you use the
Cross-Pin Technique to secure cords. Step 8: Tighten the knot a little bit, one section
at a time. Make sure all the loops are the same size.
Step 9: Use a second cord, and follow the path of the first one, all the way
through the design. Start at the secured end.
Tighten and adjust the knots again. Figure Eight Patterns look best when
somewhat loose, so you can see the details.
Description: The Celtic Square Knot is a symbol popular with Celtic artists,
representing the creation of the universe. It's also called the "Box Knot", since it
is often carved on the top of handcrafted boxes, like the one shown above.
You could use this decorative knot to make Macramé jewelry, and any pattern
that requires a knot made with one strand. It's often used in combination with
Celtic Button Knots to make very attractive necklaces.
You can click on the images and a larger photo will come up in a new
window.
Step 1: Make the first loop in the center of a 20-inch cord, so the left end crosses
over the right.
Step 2: To make the second loop, use the left end and direct it counter-clockwise
so it passes under the first loop. The end should come to rest on the left.
Step 3: To make the third loop, take the right end, and weave it through Loops 1
and 2. You should be moving from left to right.
Direct the right end down to the crook of Loop 2, at the lower right area of the
Celtic Square knot.
Step 5: Take the other end (left) and bring it down to the third space, at the
bottom left area of the knot.
Step 6: Tighten the knot by pulling on the ends. Adjust the loops so that the one
at the top is slightly larger than the box shaped area.
This knot looks best if space is left between the segments, so you can see the
overall design.
Celtic Triangle Knot
Description: The Celtic Triangle Knot is based on the Triquetra Symbol, which
is found in many European designs. It symbolizes a variety of concepts, such as
body, mind and spirit. It's also called the Trinity Knot, representing the three
members of the Godhead. It makes a great pair of designer earrings, particularly
if made with Satin, Paracord, or Leather.
You can click on the images and a larger picture will come up in a new
window.
Step 1: Make a counter-clockwise loop in the center of a 36-inch cord. The right
portion should pass over the left to form the crossing point.
If using Leather or Satin cord, make sure you use the Cross Pin Technique to
secure the loops.
Step 2: Take the end that is now on your right, and make a counter-clockwise
loop. It should rest below and to the right of Loop 1 at the top.
Take the other end and make a clockwise loop, directly across. Make sure you
pass the end under to form the crossing point.
Cross the left end over the right, below the two loops you just made. This
crossing point should line up with the center of Loop 1.
Step 3: Pass the end that is now on the right, through Loop 2 (right), from below
(under - over).
Step 4: Pass the same end under both sides of Loop 1, as you bring it towards
the left upper area of the Celtic Triangle Knot.
Interlaced Plaits
Description: There are three types of Interlaced Plaits you can use for Macrame. The
woven pattern that results from the use of these knots is the highlight of many Celtic
art designs. The Ancient Egyptians were quite fond of them, as were the Romans.
The three-strand version, frequently used in hairstyles, is called the King Solomon’s
Plait.
The Four Strand Plait is tied a bit differently. To practice, it might be a good idea for
you to use four cords of different colors. To make wider Interlaced Plaits, you can
follow this same pattern, but use additional cords.
Step 4: Take cord 2 next, and do the same thing. Bring the
end under cord 1, over cord 4, and under cord 3.
Braid Knot
The Braid Knot is a unique Interlaced Plait I've only seen in one book so far. It's a bit
different than the other two variations, and makes a great Celtic Necklace.
Obtain a cord at least 40 inches long. Attach one end to your Project board or table
surface, which will be referred to as the "secured end".
Step 1: Make a large, elongated loop, heading up, then
back down, rotating counter-clockwise. Direct the working
end under the secured end. Place a pin at the crossing
point.
Step 2: Pass the working end through the top part of the
loop, which is called the crook. Direct it through from
below, which turns out to be under - over as shown.
Next, use the cord that started out in the center, but which
is now on the left, and bring it into the middle.
Circular Knots
Seal of Solomon Celtic Ring Knot
Description: Circular Knots are fun and easy to make, so they are often used in
children's projects. The Seal of Solomon is sometimes called the Flat Turks
Head knot. The center of it is left open slightly, with five loops along the edges.
In the image above, it's doubled. The Celtic Ring Knot is a type of circular
braiding, and can also be doubled to thicken it.
These two historical decorative knots can be used to make coasters, rugs and
other projects. If made small, both of these circular knots can be used to make a
ring or pendant.
Please click on the small images below to see larger ones, which come up in a
new window. That will help you see the details.
Seal of Solomon
Tip: The key to making most circular knots is to make the loops large enough to have
room to work.
Pass over the left portion of it, and then under the
secured end. Finish by going over the right portion of
Loop 2.
Now that the angles for this circular knot are all made and secured, you will use the
working end to weave through them.
Step 3: Direct the working end under Angle D,
located in the upper right area of the Celtic Ring
Knot.
To double the Celtic Ring knot, use a separate cord, or the working end. Follow the
path of the first cord, starting at the secured end. It helps if you don't tighten it until the
knot is doubled.
Description: The Celtic Circle Knot is derived from the Celtic symbol that
represents the concept of eternal life. The beautiful, intricate pattern it makes is
worth the effort it takes to produce it. Tying this unique decorative knot can be a
challenge, so be sure you have no distractions.
Use a project board and pins to control the loops, securing each one at the crook,
which is the curved portion. All the loops are to be made in a counter-
clockwise direction.
To see a Micro-Macrame pattern where this decorative knot is used, see these
Celtic Circle Earrings.
You can click on the images and a larger picture will come up in a new
window.
Loop 5: Create the fifth loop, which should rest to the left and slightly below
Loop 4.
The working end should pass over Loop 4 as you bring it around to the left in the
next step.
Loop 6: Bring the working end to Loop 2. Weave through, passing under - over
- under the three segments in that area (Marked in RED).
Direct the end through Loops 4 and 5, heading upward and to the right. The path
is marked in BLUE, and the weaving sequence is over - under - over.
Loop 7: Make the 7th Loop so it rests on top of Loop 1, and slightly to the right.
The end should pass over both parts of Loop 1.
Bring the end down to Loop 4, weaving through it by passing under - over -
under the three segments.
Loop 8: To make the next loop, bring the end to Loops 1 and 7. Weave the end
over - under - over - over.
Weave through Loop 1, passing under - over - under the three segments there.
Bumblebee Knot
Step 2: Next, make Loop 2 using the left end of the cord,
rotating in a clockwise direction. Pass the end under at
the crossing point, as you complete the loop.
Step 4: Crisscross the two ends, so the left passes over the
right.
Step 5: Use the left end and bring it up the right side,
passing under Loop 3. Next, pass it over Loop 1,
heading right to left. Finally, pass under Loop 2, as
you bring it down to the bottom left.
Description: The Star Knot is a very interesting combination knot. I listed it with
the Celtic knots because of the interwoven elements. It uses two types of
modified Lanyard knots, one of which is very unique.
You will need a project board and pins to successfully create this pretty
decorative knot. One of the nicest things about it is the fact that you can place a
bead or stone in the center, secured with glue. You can make it with slender
material and use it as a pendant, or use it as a hair decoration.
You can click on the small images, and larger ones will show up in a new
window.
Direct the end into the loop made by Cord 1, from below
(under-over as shown).
Make sure you pass the end of each strand into the
loop from below. Adjust the loops of the Star Knot so
they are the same size.
Step 7: Take the end of cord 2, and fold it back
towards the loop made by that same strand.
Tip: I found that the best way to double the Star knot was to start with cord 4 at
the top. Take the end and bring it around the outside of loop 4, rotating counter-
clockwise. Pass it through the space that is indicate in the image above, and direct
it down and through loop 2 from the top (over-under).
Remember that each cord was passed through the loop next to it, back in steps 5
and 6. You need to use the same cord to make both loops while you are
doubling the knot, so if you didn't label the cords with masking tape, you may
need to trace each one back, to make sure you have the right strands.
IMPORTANT: The space each end passes through will be between the loop
made by the cord you are working with, and the next loop that lays counter-
clockwise to it. If you have trouble finding the space, just locate the crook of the
folds, which is the curved portion. Here is a chart you can use to work on this
section of the Star Knot:
Celtic Weave
Description: The Celtic Weave is a combination knot with the typical interlaced
pattern seen in Celtic artwork. A decorative knot like this can be used as a focal
point in many Macrame projects, including handcrafted jewelry. I like to use
knots like this when I need a central knot, with cords coming off it in different
directions.
In the images, I used two colors to show you the details a little better. You can
click on each one and a larger image will come up in a new window.
Mentally number each segment 1 thru 8, starting with the diagonal cord on the
lower left (brown). You will be making a Lanyard Knot, but not in the standard
way. The ends pass under rather than over, as you progress.
Design Tip: Place a piece of paper on top of the Lanyard Knot, and secure it in
the center. This way you won't be distracted as you make the upper portion of the
Celtic Weave.
Here's another tip: Each time you fold or weave a cord, secure it. This way you
know which ones you have used.
It should come to rest to the left of the bottom strand with the same number (B1-
blue).
The second top strand (T2-blue) should come to rest to the left of the second
bottom one (B2-brown).
Step 10: Use the top strand on the left next, which is
the blue one in this image (L1). Weave it through,
passing over - under - over - under, moving left to
right.
Globe Knot
Description: The Globe Knot is an interesting Celtic technique that produces a
round, finished ball. The ends can be tucked inside the sphere, or the knot can
dangle from them. It can be used as a finishing knot, as a head for Macrame
animals, or even as part of jewelry designs. If you make it with slender material,
this decorative knot can be used to make a unique pair of earrings.
In the images below, the large, outer loops are labelled with numbers. The ones
that have letters are smaller and are on the inside of the design.
You can click on the images and larger ones will come up, to help you see the
details.
Cut 1 strand of material, at least 90 inches long, to practice making the Globe
knot.
Step 1: Secure one end to your project board. Make
the first loop on the right, rotating clockwise. It
should be at least 1-inch wide. On the left, make the
first small loop (A), passing slightly under and to
the left of loop 1.
Pass over the first coil, under the next two, and over
two as you bring the cord down. The end will rest
inside of Loop 2 at the bottom.
Step 8: Bring the end back up, through the left side of
the Globe knot. This will create inner loop D, which
rests inside loop 2.
Celtic Mat
Description: The Celtic Mat is one of my favorite Macrame knots. Each design
is woven to produce beautiful interlaced patterns. The image above shows the
technique known as the Ocean Plait Mat. Further down on this page are two
other similar designs. One is called the Basket Weave, and the other is the
Prosperity Knot.
Another page you might want to see if you like this type of decorative knot, is the
Mashead Mat Technique. It results in a round or oval shape, and has similarities
to the designs described here.
These Celtic knots are perfect for rugs, but can also be used as pendants if made
with slender cord (2mm or less). To make a rug, you would simply create any of
these designs very large and follow the path of the cord with several others,
filling in the knot. In the image above I used 6mm cord and doubled the knot,
which resulted in a design about the size of a pot holder.
You can click on the small images to see larger ones that come up in a new
window.
Bring the end down to the lower left area of the knot,
passing under all three segments.
Step 4: Bring the working end towards the right. Pass
over the secured end.
Basket Weave
This type of Celtic Mat is very
similar to the design shown above,
but it is constructed differently.
Obtain one cord at least 60 inches long. Make sure you use a project board and pins
to control the loops.
Make sure the right end passes over the left, to make
the crossing point at the bottom.
Step 2: Take the end that is now on the left, and bring
it through the loop, over - under.
Make sure you can see all the crossed areas clearly
before moving on to the next step.
Step 7: Take the left end and pass it down the middle
of Loop 1. Remember the area is below the crossing
points.
Pull the left and right loops until they are around 3 to
5 inches in size.
Note that each loop has a right and left side. This is
important in the next step.
Step 4: Flip the left side of the loops over the right
side (left to right).
Snake Weave
Description: The Snake Weave is a historical Celtic design seen in many works
of art, including handcrafted jewelry like the bracelet shown. The cord weaves
back and forth, creating a snake-like woven design, similar to an Interlaced
Plait.
You can use this decorative knot to create beautiful bracelets and necklaces,
along with straps for purses and other similar Macrame projects.
I have included the instructions for a variation called the Celtic Bar, which is a
little thicker and uses a slightly different technique.
Click on the small images, and larger ones will come up in a new window.
I found both designs in "Decorative Fusion Knots"
by J. D. Lenzen.
Step 6: Flip the left side of the large loop over the right.
Step 8: Now use the left end, and weave it through the
loop, under - over - under as shown.
Step 9: Tighten the first portion of the Snake Weave
by pulling on the ends and the loop.
Step 10: Adjust the Snake Weave so it's the same width all
the way down the length. You can keep the weave loose,
or tighten it completely.
Celtic Bar
Step 3: Pass the end that is now on the left, under the
left bight, as you bring it straight down.
Step 9: Pass the left end through the other loop, from
below.
Step 10: Pass the same end (left) through the loop on the
right.
Step 11: Pass the right end through the loop on the left.
Step 12: Tighten and adjust the design.
Description: The Turks Head Knot is based on the ancient symbol for eternity,
the never-ending circle. The woven design this knot features is typical of the
flowing patterns favored by Celtic craftsmen.
This decorative knot is simply a type of braiding that makes a continuous loop.
Pay close attention to the two main elements: Crossing Points and Weaving.
It is perfect for bangle bracelets, headbands and other fashion items. You can also
make a small version to use as a casual ring.
To see a pattern using this decorative knot, check out this Bangle Bracelet.
You can click on the small icons, and larger images will show up in a new
window.
Single Turks Head
Step 1: Obtain an item you can use as a support, such as a glass or a thick dowel.
The size of this knot is dependent on the thickness of the support. So if you want
to make a ring, for example, a dowel should be used, the diameter of your finger.
I used a glass in the example, since I wanted to make a bracelet.
You need one cord, at least 60 inches long. If you plan to thicken the knot by
doubling it, cut the cord longer. You also have the option of using another cord,
to provide contrast to the Turks Head knot, like in the Bangle Bracelet above.
Step 2: Secure one end of the cord to the bottom left edge of the support. Wrap
the cord around, from the front to the back.
Bring the end to the front again, crossing over right to left. Mentally label that
crossing point #1.
Step 3: Wrap the working end around the support again. Bring it to the front,
passing between the secured tail and the right portion of the cord.
Cross over the right portion, heading left to right. Make sure this second
crossing point is secured well.
Step 5: Just above the point where you ended in the last step, pick up and MOVE
the left segment over the right. DO NOT flip the cord upside down.
Step 6: Direct the working end through the space you made in the last step, just
above Cross 3. Pass into it from below, heading left to right (under - over).
Tip: The entire weaving process in this Turks Head knot is always under - over,
so you come into the space from below.
This will give you room for one more pass, heading left
to right. The ends should be in the same general area.
Direct them to the inside of the Turks Head knot, and
apply glue to hold them in place.
Design Tip: To thicken the Turks Head knot, you can use the same working end
and follow the path all the way through.
You could aslo use a separate cord, and do the same thing. Make sure you start at
the tail which was secured to the glass in the first step.
Pass into the space just below the cross, heading left
to right, from the top (over-under).
Step 7: Tighten the Turks Head knot gradually. Remove it from the support if
you wish, being careful not to disturb the pattern. Tighten it to whatever size you
need. The ends can be glued on the inside of the loop.
Click on the small icons to see larger images, which come up in a new
window.
Step 4: Bring the end to the right and upwards, to the top
of the Celtic Heart knot. Alternate under and over the
segments as shown.
Josephine Knot
Description: The Josephine Knot is an ancient design that has been around for
more than two thousand years. It’s believed to have originated in the Orient,
where it's called the Double Coin Knot. In Europe it was named after the
Empress Josephine. You can make a very pretty bracelet or necklace using this
decorative knot. You can also put it into the body of many patterns.
This Celtic Knot was used along with the Sailors Knot to make a Leather
Bracelet, as shown in the images at the bottom of the page.
You can click on the small images and larger ones will come up, showing you
the details.
Step 1: You will need one cord, at least 24 inches long. Locate the center of the
cord. Make a counter-clockwise loop with the left half of it.
Be sure you bring the end under the other segment as you direct it towards the
left.
Step 2: Bring the right end down, passing across the center of the first loop, so it
rests on top of it. This creates a second loop.
Before moving on to the next step, pass the right end under the left.
Step 3: Bring the right end up to the top of the knot, rotating clockwise. Direct it
through the first two loops, weaving over - under - over - under as shown.
You can
Note that the combine the
Josephine and two knots to
Sailor Knots are create belts,
very similar in jewelry and
appearance. other Macrame
items.
Cloud Knot
Description: The Cloud Knot is the first of several new decorative knots I will be
introducing in 2011. This Celtic design starts out with a Josephine knot, and adds
a little extra weaving. So it's considered a "fusion or combination" knot.
Step 3: Note how the left end rests above the crook of
loop 1. Untuck it now, so it rests under that area
instead.
Tip: If you wish, you can now secure the entire knot to your board. Be careful
not to disturb anything.
Pentaradial Knot
Click on the small images below, and larger ones will come up.
Step 3: Cross the end on the left, over the one on the
right.
Step 5: Use the other end and make another bight. Pass it
through Loop 1, from the top (over - under).
Step 6: Remove the pins and flip the entire design upside
down. Turn the Pentaradial knot around so the bights are
at the bottom, with the ends at the top.
If you look closely at the Pentaradial knot, the end you are working with is coming
down through the middle of the right bight.
Step 9: Pick up the bight that started out on the left, and
pass it under the outer segment of the other bight.
Step 10: Now take the left end and rotate it around
clockwise. Pass it through Loop 1 from the top (over -
under).
Pendant Knots
Description: These Pendant Knots are easy to tie, and can be used not only as
pendants, but as tiny charms, if made with fine materials. The ends can be used as
part of the necklace design, since they come out at the top.
You can click on the small images below to see larger ones, which come up in
a new window.
These Celtic knots were found in a book called
"Decorative Fusion Knots" , written by J. D.
Lenzen.
Pendant Knot
This decorative knot features the interlaced weaving common to all Celtic designs. It is
easy to tie and looks great with just about any type of necklace.
The Brigid's Knot is the most unique of the two Pendant Knots shown.
Saint Brigid of Kildare, a patron saint of Ireland, founded two monasteries and a
school of art. She was also the only female bishop in the early Christian Church.
This decorative knot honors her life of kindness and generosity.
Direct the right end through the left loop, passing under -
over the two segments. Direct the left end through the
right loop, going over - under.
Description: The Tree of Life is a popular Celtic symbol that represents strength,
longevity, and wisdom. But this decorative knot is usually created on paper, not
with cord. In Macrame, it can be used as a pendant for a necklace.
Click on the small images below to see larger ones, which come up in a new
window.
Step 4: Flip the knot over, so the crossed ends are at the
top, and the loops at the bottom.
Take note of the pink star at the bottom. That area needs to be widened before you
complete the next step. Just pull those two segments sideways, so they are about an
inch apart.
Step 9: Start by passing the left end under the right end.
Then alternate over and under the six segments near the
bottom of the Tree of Life design. The over - under
sequence is marked in green.
Click on the images below to see larger ones, which come up in a new
window.
Make sure the left end passes over the right to make
the crossing point.
Step 2: Flip the right portion of the loop over the left, to
make a second crossing point.
Step 4: Take the end that is now on the left, and pass it
under the top curve of the loop.
Step 5: Take the end on the right, and make a
clockwise loop. It should be horizontal compared to
the first loop.
Weave the end over the right segment, under the two
in the center, and over the segment on the left.
Step 6: Use the left end, and pass it over the right
end, which is resting on the left side of the knot.
Alternate over and under, as you bring it towards the
right. Make sure you are rotating counter-clockwise.
Longhorn Knot
Description: The Longhorn Knot is an interesting knotting technique that is
based on the triangular profile of the Texas Longhorn cattle.
Note: The tightening process is the most challenging part of creating this
decorative knot. In the images below, I made the knot very large, so you could
see the pattern better. When you make it, try to keep it as small as possible.
By clicking on the small images, you can see larger ones, which come up in a
new window.
You can click on the small photos below, to see larger images, which come
up in a new window.
Step 5: Use the end on the right, and bring it over the
upper curve of Loop 1, on the right side of the knot.
River Knot
Description: The River Knot is similar to other Double Coin Patterns in that it
starts out with the same knot. The Josephine knot, also called the Double Coin
Knot, can be used to form different shapes. This historical knot represents the sun
rising over a rippling river.
You can click on the small photos below, to see larger images, which come
up in a new window.
Step 7: Now use the right end, and start the weaving
through Loop 3. Pass under the left end at the bottom of
the knot. Go over - under - over the three segments as
you bring it to the upper right.
Macrame Dictionary
Dictionary Quick Links
A through E
F through M
N through Z
Here is a Macrame Dictionary, to help you learn the terms and expressions
associated with this ancient craft. Most people are not familiar with words such
as Picot, and Sennit, which is why I've included three pages with specific words
used in this craft.
As you used the patterns on this site, you may come across unfamiliar words and
abbreviations. Many of them will be listed in this section. You'd be surprised at
how many common words are used in a different way in Macrame. The
definitions, information, and images on these pages will help you become
familiar with the unique manner some of these terms are used.
Click on the links and images to go to other pages that will provide more details
and show examples about specific words. The pages will come up in a new
window, so you won't lose your place.
Have any comments or suggestions about the Macrame Dictionary? Contact Me.
Alternating: Patterns where the quantity, or type of knots used, change back and
forth with each new row. This term is also used when you switch back and forth
between 2 different cords, as you create the design. See Alternating Square
Knots (ASK) for an example of this type of pattern.
Bangle Bracelet was made with the Turks Head Knot. Bar:
Tying a series of knots that form a distinct, raised area in the pattern. They are
described as horizontal, diagonal, or vertical. See Double Half Hitch for more
information.
Bight: When you fold a cord, resulting in a narrow design. See the Josephine
Knot for a good example for the use of this technique.
Center: This Macrame term is used in 2 ways. The first is to indicate the knot,
strand, space, etc. that is in the middle. It is also used to describe the action of
placing one cord under another so there is the same length on either side. See
Adding Cords for more details.
Chain (CH): This term means a series of knots tied one right after the other.
Also called a Sennit. The term Band is sometimes used as well, particularly if
the knots form a flat pattern. Go to Half Hitch Patterns to see several types of
Macrame sennits.
Cord: The material you use to tie the Macrame knots. Leather, nylon, cotton,
hemp, silk, and yarn are all different types of cord, made with a variety of fibers.
The image shows rolls of Opelon Floss cord. For more information, see
Macrame Cord.
Core: This Macrame term refers to the specific strands that hold the knots. The
working cord makes the knot around it. Also referred to as a filler cord. In the
image, the blue cords are the core. See Basket Stitch for an example of how this
term is used.
D
Descending: When an end heads downwards, or towards you
as you are sitting in front of the knot. This is a completed Cloud Knot, which shows a
E
End: The cut portion of the cord, also called the tip. That area can either be
secured, or used in the construction of the knots (see below).
Findings: Fasteners or closures for necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. They are
usually made from some type of metal, but some can be made from Macrame
knots. See Decorative Fasteners for more details.
Finishing knot: A specific type of knot used at the ends of the
cords to secure them, and prevent unraveling. The Barrel Knot in the image, for
Fringe: A decorative feature that results in a large group of dangling cords. This
technique was very popular in the 1970s. See Making Fringe for more details.
Hemp: A tough, natural fiber that you can use to make Macrame projects. This
type of cord has been popular since the 1960's. Today it is used to make
friendship bracelets and other types of casual jewelry. See Macrame Cord for
more information.
I-K
Jute: A strong, coarse fiber that you can use for Macrame projects. It is
particularly suited to making outdoor furnishings. Burlap sacks are made from
this material. For more information, see Macrame Cord.
Knots (K): What Macrame is all about! There are many types
of knots, but the ones used in this craft are often called Decorative Knots. The image
shows one of several Linked Overhand Knots.
L
Lampwork: Handcrafted beads that are made by heating glass rods and winding
them into three dimensional shapes. Intricate details and colors are then added to
create a variety of beautiful designs. See Macrame Beads for more details.
Leather: A type of Cord material that is made from animal hides. It is usually
round or flat, and somewhat stiff. This Leather Bracelet can be found in the
Micro-Macrame section of this site.
N
Natural: This term refers to cord materials and other items
that are made from plants, wood, or other substances found in nature. Flax and Hemp
are both made from plant fibers, and are very popular materials for Macrame. See
Pendant: A medium or large size decoration that has a loop at the top, so it
dangles below a cord. There are many types of pendants available for Macrame
projects, made of metal, glass, or other materials. Drop beads and Charms are
similar. See Macrame Beads for more details.
Picot: This important Macrame term is used often. It is a loop of cord that stands
out from the finished edge. In the image, there are 3 picots at each edge of the
knot. To learn how to tie these interesting designs, see Picot Designs.
Plait: Overlapping 3 or 4 cords in an alternating pattern will
form a plait, also called a braid. Designs like these are easy to tie, and are actually a
S
Scallop: This important Macrame term refers to a distinct loop
of knots, created along the edges of crafted items, similar to a picot. Scallops were
widely used in Macrame projects made in the early 1900's, so they are considered a
Vintage technique. See Vintage Shawl, and Buttonhole Scallops for more information.
Square Knot (SK): The most common decorative knot used in Macramé. If you
don't know how to tie one with filler cords running through the center, go to
Square Knot to learn how.
Stiffness: The degree the cord material you are using will
stretch or bend. These Celtic Triangle Earrings were made with Leather, which is a very
stiff material, compared to cotton, for example, whis is very flexible. See Macrame Cord
called the head. See Creating Tassels for more details. Taut:
Sometimes holding cords need to be pulled and secured so they are tight. In the image,
the 2 strands in the center are pulled taut. The other 2 strands will be used to tie the
U-V