UNTANGLING THE ROOTS OF HAIR AND IDENTITY Edlan 1

Untangling the Roots of Hair and Identity:

How does hair play a role in reflecting human identity?

Victoria M. Edlan

Global Connections

Instructor: Gregory L. Falls

Global Studies and World Languages Academy

Tallwood High School

December 9, 2019
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Abstract

For centuries, the human body has evolved and changed over time. Similarly, hair

has also evolved and changed over time, never staying static. It is the most dynamic part

of the human body; it is malleable and can be cut, braided, ironed, curled, and dyed.

Functionally, it provides protection for vital organs and warmth for the body. However,

many people do not think about the importance and significance of hair in their daily

lives. In this paper, the author explains how hair impacts a human’s identity and

discusses how hair and identity are interconnected.

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Table of Contents

Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………………………….4

Limitations…………………………………………………………………………………………………………...5

Literature Review…………………………………………………………………………………………………..6

Discussion…………………………………………………………………………………………………………....9

Functional Properties of Hair……………………………………………………………………….9

History of Hair in Ancient Egypt…………………………………………………………………..9

History of African American Hair ……………………………………………………………….10

Hair in the Workplace………………………………………………………………………………..13

The Decline in Cultural Preservation Through Hair……………………………………...14

Conclusion………………………………………………………………………………………………………….15

References…………………………………………………………………………………………………………..16
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Introduction

As Coco Chanel once said, “A woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life.”

There are numerous things that a person could do to change his or her life. Many

people consider shopping for new clothes, pursuing a new job, or picking up a new

hobby. One of the things that do not come to mind for many people initially should sit

on top of the list of life-changing factors but instead sits on top of the human head: hair.

If hair could speak, what would it say?

Hair is more than just hair. It is a way for people to talk to someone without even

speaking to them. Hair communicates one’s personality, status, and beliefs. It serves as

a critical body feature, aiding in regulating body temperature and protecting parts of the

body from various external elements. It allows for self-expression and gives insight into

a person’s background by providing a means of diversifying the way humans see the

100,000 strands on their heads. Throughout history, it has also played a key role in

human survival and providing a means of preserving culture. In certain religions, it

serves as an honored and respected part of the body, symbolizing strength, tradition,

and spirituality.

Although hair has served its esteemed role throughout history, it has been a topic

of controversy dating as far back to the start of slavery in the United States in the

seventeenth century. Hair discrimination has been an issue for the majority of human

history. The capturing and trading of slaves on the west coast of Africa in 1444 heavily

influenced hair discrimination and was the start of Africans losing their identity due to

Europeans yearning to maintain control.

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As a result of hair playing an important role in reflecting identity, it is crucial to

explore and understand the various reasons why it is an immense part of a person’s

sense of self. It is imperative to preserve its history and contributions to culture through

educating others, being informed about different types of hair, and accepting and

appreciating diverse hairstyles. Through this paper, the author attempts to explore and

untangle the roots of human identity expressed through hair.

Limitations

​This paper provides an in-depth analysis of the importance of hair in various

cultures. The limitations of this paper include time period constraints and specific scope

of research. Although the author researched and mentioned the history of hair from

time periods before 1900, the main scope of the research is focused on the 1900s-2000s.

The topic itself is fairly broad and encompasses a wide range of history from various

cultures. Therefore, it is inevitable that not every element of this topic will be covered.

Although the author has some personal connection to the topic due to having long hair,

the author attempted to explore a broad range of hairstyles and cultures. Therefore,

there is little personal bias evident in the paper.

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Literature Review

In order to fully understand the importance of hair and the preservation of its

history and contributions to culture, one must look into sources that have already been

published and backed up by reliable information. Many researchers, historians, and

authors have previously presented multiple reasons supporting the importance of hair.

Hair is valuable to humans for a number of reasons. In the article written by

Lucinda Ellery from Huff Post, she states that humans see their hair as a reflection of

identity. She splits her paper into four different sections and lists four reasons to back

up her main point: femininity, identity, freedom and beauty, and liberation. She states,

“This is not just because many of us believe that appearances are important, but also

because our hair represents our personality, thoughts and beliefs. For centuries, women

have been able to play different roles by changing different hairstyles, and from their

stories, we can see that hair contributes greatly to women’s self-esteem, actions and

motives” (Ellery, 2014). This quote emphasizes the fact that hair is much more than the

surface; it gives insight into a person’s personality, thoughts, and beliefs.

Another article titled “Hair and Beauty Culture in the United States” talks about

how African American men and women value their hair because it is a form of

self-expression. African hair and beauty have been influenced by European standards.

Encyclopedia.com states, “European aesthetics pervaded the black community in many

ways—from social hierarchies based on skin color to cultural expressions categorizing

hair as ‘good’ or ‘bad’ based on its texture—and shaped the context in which African
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Americans made their hair and beauty choices.” This quote articulates how European

standards played a role in shaping African American beauty choices.

Hairstyles are more than just hairstyles. For example, braids originally were used

to protect the hair and scalp. An article on blackdoctor.org titled, “More Than A

Hairstyle: How Braids Were Used To Keep Our Ancestors Alive” talks about the origins

of braids and its purpose for African American women. They cite a quote which states,

“Many African women braided rice or seeds into their hair before journeying the Middle

Passage, on their way to enslavement or braided it into their children’s hair before

separation, so that they could eat.” This quote shows that braiding was used for much

more than a hairstyle. African slaves braided their hair in order to help their children eat

and survive the journey along the Middle Passage.

Braid patterns and hairstyles represented marital status, wealth, power, and

religion as well. Blackdoctor.org further states, “Historically, male styling with cornrows

can be traced as far back as the early nineteenth century to Ethiopia, where warriors and

kings such as Tewodros II and Yohannes IV were depicted wearing cornrows.” This

shows how braids played a role in depicting power and status in African culture.

Similarly, wigs were used in place of headdresses in order to symbolize a male or

female’s rank. An article titled, “A Visual History of Iconic Black Hairstyles” written by

Madison Horne explains, “The 2050 B.C. sarcophagus of princess Kawit portrays the

princess having her hair done by a servant during breakfast. Wigs such as this were

often styled with braided pieces of human hair, wool, palm fibers and other materials set

on a thick skullcap. Egyptian law prohibited slaves and servants from wearing wigs”
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(Horne, 2019). This shows that status was depicted by hairstyles and that slaves had no

status due to Egyptian law prohibiting them from wearing wigs. In the article, Horne

talks about other hairstyles such as afros, dreadlocks, and cornrows. Horne further

explains, “Cornrows were named for their visual similarity to cornfields. Africans wore

these tight braids laid along the scalp as a representation of agriculture, order and a

civilized way of life. These types of braids have served many purposes, from an everyday

convenience to a more elaborate adornment meant for special occasions.” She also

states, “In the age of colonialism, slaves wore cornrows not only as an homage to where

they had come from, but also a practical way to wear one’s hair during long labored

hours. Hair also played a role in the way enslaved workers were treated; if the texture

and kink of one’s hair more closely resembled European hair, they would receive better

treatment.” From these quotes, one can understand the strong symbolism behind

cornrows and their purpose for the hairstyle. Cornrows were mostly used for practical

reasons, but status and image also played a role in the hairstyle.

It is crucial to preserve the history and culture behind different hairstyles. In doing

this, people are able to understand each other better and become more knowledgeable

about their roots. People are also able to understand history and patterns in traditions

and culture. Without diversity in hairstyles, one cannot represent themselves and their

true identity; it is as if a part of them is missing.

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Functional Properties of Hair

Hair, at its most basic form, is the “characteristic threadlike outgrowths of the

outer layer of the skin (epidermis)” (Encyclopaedia Britannica, 2017). Hair is dead

tissue that is composed of keratin and other related proteins. The average person has

100,000 to 150,000 strands of hair and sheds around 50 to 100 strands of hair per day

(Encyclopaedia Britannica, 2017). Hair helps mammals conserve body heat by

insulating the scalp, where humans lack fat. This feature is crucial to regulating body

temperature and maintaining homeostasis.

Eyebrow hairs and eyelashes are also forms of hair that protect the body from

external factors. Eyebrows protect the eyes from sweat, rain, and catch any other liquids

that could possibly enter the eyes. Eyelashes protect the eyes from irritants such as dust,

debris, and other small particles.

History of Hair in Ancient Egypt

Aside from its functional properties, hair serves as a window into human history

and culture. For Ancient Egyptians, their appearance was a significant part of who they

were. It heavily influenced their status or role in society. For example, children usually

had shaved or short hair with an s-shaped lock of hair which depicted the hieroglyphic

symbol of a child or youth (Ancient Egyptian Hair and Beauty). Boys and girls wore this

style until the start of puberty. Young boys usually shaved their heads and young girls

wore their hair in braids. Another popular hairstyle was the ponytail worn with the hair

running down the center of the back. Young female dancers wore long, thick braided
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ponytails. The edge of the tail was either naturally curled or weighted down by

adornments or metal discs for added enhancement.

History of African American Hair

African hair has an abundance of history and went through much acculturation

throughout the years, generally conforming to western beauty practices. In order to fully

understand the extent of its rich roots and evolution, it is important to discuss the

beginning years where Africans first built the foundations of their diverse hairstyles.

The history behind elaborate hairstyles first originated in different ethnic groups

in Africa. The first known examples of dreadlocks were reported to be found on several

artifacts that date back to ancient Egypt (History and Origin of Dreadlocks, 2019). The

remains of mummified ancient Egyptians with dreadlocks have also been recovered

from archaeological sites. Hair grooming played a significant part in expressing status

and identity in African tribes. It allowed individuals to identify someone’s social status

based on ethnicity, social rank, age, marital status, wealth, fertility, manhood, and

religion. Styling time ranged from hours to days. Women used this time as a chance to

socialize and form meaningful bonds with other women.

In 1444, Europeans captured Africans of all social statuses and traded them along

the west coast of Africa. In the video titled “THE HISTORY OF BLACK HAIR” by Chime

Edwards, Edwards explains how Africans were stripped of their identities through hair

and how the history of their hair evolved over time. She explains that the Europeans

admired the Africans’ elaborate and unique hairstyles; however, something had to be

done in order to maintain control and dependency over the Africans. As a result, men
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and women had their hair shaved off, stripping them of their identities (Edwards, 2015).

A majority of African culture and grooming traditions began to disappear; the

Europeans restricted them from speaking their native languages, performing traditional

dances, and maintaining their hair in the styles that they desired. Slaveowners pushed

their standard of beauty forward in order to cut off the enslaved Africans’ connections to

their true selves. This meant that fair skin, straight hair, and thin facial features were

deemed as more beautiful than kinky hair, wider facial features, and darker skin. As a

result of brainwashing and internalizing color consciousness, many Africans believed

that having kinky hair and darker skin was less attractive and worthless. This mentality

was passed down from generation to generation both consciously and subconsciously

and continues to plague the mindsets of blacks to this day (Edwards, 2015).

The Africans did not have access to the combs and herbal treatments used in

Africa. In order to care for their hair, they were forced to use bacon grease, butter,

kerosene, and sheep brushes (Edwards, 2015). Free blacks were able to wear

eye-catching hairstyles but this “drew the attention of white men and the jealousy of

white women” (Edwards, 2015). An article titled “When Black Women Were Required

By Law to Cover Their Hair” written by Jameelah Nasheed states, “By incorporating

feathers and jewels into their hairstyles, they showcased the full magic and glory of their

gravity-defying strands, and appeared wealthier than they actually were. As a result,

these enticing styles attracted the attention of men—including white men” (Nasheed,

2018). Consequently, Tignon Laws were established in Louisiana in 1786 stating that

black women were required to cover their hair in public using fabric because African
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hairstyles were “considered a threat to the status quo” (Nasheed, 2018). However, this

did not stop African women from expressing themselves through hair; their head wraps

were tied in elaborate and intricate ways. In the words of Chime Edwards, although the

Tignon Laws attempted to diminish African American beauty, “what was supposed to

draw less attention to them actually made them even more beautiful and alluring”

(Edwards, 2015).

Throughout the twentieth century, many hairstyles become more popular and are

proudly embraced, thanks to the use of media, television, and movies. Some notable

events include the inventions of innovative hair products and tools, the popularization

of unique hairstyles, and movements that inspired the African population to embrace

their culture. In 1954, George E. Johnson invented a permanent hair straightener for

men that could be applied at home. He later created Ultra Sheen in 1957, which was a

revolutionary hair straightener that women could use at home. In 1962, Cicely Tyson

wore cornrows on the TV drama titled ​East Side/West Side. ​This was a notable event

because this style was usually worn inside the home and was “not considered a finished

look for an adult woman” (Edwards, 2015). In later years, the emergence of the Black

Power Movement became more prominent. Angela Davis was one of the most

well-known icons of this movement due to the Afro hairstyle becoming a symbol for

black power and pride, which inspired African Americans to embrace kinky hair and

dark skin. Diahann Carroll surpassed racial barriers and was the first black woman to

star in a television network series. She was considered to be the “black version of the

all-American girl with straightened, curled hair” (Edwards, 2015). Bob Marley
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popularized dreadlocks to pop culture, making the hairstyle more prominent in the

black community. Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, the Jheri curl hairstyle

In the 2000s, African Americans experimented with relaxers, braids, and various

natural styles. The low fade, or “Caesar” was considered the standard hairstyle for men.

A large number of men started to experiment with braids and bobs throughout this time

frame as well. Most notably, the natural hair movement that climaxed in 2009

encouraged African American women and men to keep and embrace their natural hair.

Hair in the Workplace

In pre-African slavery, hair was seen as something of pride. Prior to European

involvement on beauty standards, kinky hair was seen as a blessing. Intricate styling

through hair braids and twists were worn as signs of status and beauty. In particular,

hairstyle was used as a form of non-verbal communication in West Africa. The more

intricate a style of braiding was, specifically in regards to the use of objects such as straw

and particularly in the Gold Coast (Ghana), weaving hair with golden strands of yarn,

showed signs of royalty and high status. Hair was also used as a means of showing one's

position. If someone was in mourning or were a fisherman, hairstyles were worn in

variations as such. (The Beauty Diaspora)

Despite the esteemed symbolism behind certain hairstyles, much discrimination

still takes place, especially in the workplace. Presently, many African Americans face

discrimination based on their hair. As Chanté Griffin stated in the article titled “How

Natural Black Hair at Work Became a Civil Rights Issue” she says, “Anti-black hair

sentiment on U.S. soil has existed for centuries.” Many workers were forced to cut off
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their locs or change their hairstyle in order to fit in with workplace dress code. Kinky

hair was seen as unprofessional because it was seen as messy or unkempt. In early 2019,

the New York City Commission on Human Rights argued that natural hair is

“inextricably tied to race and thus protected under Title VII of the Civil Rights Act,

which ‘prohibits employment discrimination based on race, color, religion, sex and

national origin’ (Griffin, 2019). The New York City Commission further wrote, “Bans or

restrictions on natural hair or hairstyles associated with black people are often rooted in

white standards of appearance and perpetuate racist stereotypes that black hairstyles

are unprofessional. Such policies exacerbate anti-black bias in employment, at school,

while playing sports, and in other areas of daily living.” These statements from the New

York City Commission show the concern over the evident discrimination in the

workplace and how they took action in attempts to impact this issue.

The Decline in Cultural Preservation Through Hair

As social media, movies, and television shows emerge and evolve over time, so

does hair. Many people worldwide are constantly exposed to pictures, videos, and other

visuals of trends in the world of hair. Inevitably, many people fall into the bandwagon

fallacy, thinking that in order to be accepted by society, they must follow trends simply

because everyone else is taking part in them.

Rebecca Jankowski, a hairstylist from Regis Salon, shared her views on the

decline in cultural preservation through hair and expressed her own individual views on

how hair and identity are interconnected. In an interview with Jankowski, she states,

“Many kids growing up in the United States get accustomed to trends and popular
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hairstyles in order to fit in. This can sometimes cause people to lose or forget a part of

themselves, meaning part of their culture and background” (Jankowski 2019). She dove

deeper, elaborating on her statement by saying, “It is really important for people to

never forget where they came from. Cutting, styling, and dyeing hair can help someone

feel confident and good about themselves, but often, it can make someone forget their

roots if they fall into the trends in order to be accepted by society. They feel the need to

change to please others, which shouldn’t be the case.” She concluded her interview by

stating, “People should love their hair as they love themselves. They need to take great

care of their hair and use it to express themselves. It is okay to cut, style, and dye hair to

change up a look, but it is also important to never forget to appreciate where you came

from” (Jankowski, 2019).

Conclusion

To conclude, hair and identity are interconnected through history, culture, and

self-expression. Due to the influence of European hair standards, many people of

different ethnicities have been changing their hair texture and hairstyles in an effort to

fit in with Eurocentric beauty standards and societal norms. However, individuals have

learned to accept their natural beauty and be comfortable in their own skin. Hair

provides a window into the soul of an individual by preserving thousands of years of

history, memories, and symbolism. If humans were not able to diversify the way they

present themselves to others, the world would lack uniqueness and add to the beauty

diaspora.
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