Case Swap K750i/W800i

I have compiled this ‘How-To’ only after having done the mod myself. This way, I feel, I’m in a better position to describe and now help others if questions arise. My thanks must go to gbrooks3 of and to For the images that have been used here (with some alterations). Enjoy! OK, heads up! The following ‘How-To’ is simply my way of modding my phone! I write this as a guide to others who may wish to try out this mod. I am no way responsible for your inability to carry this out without trashing your phone. My phone is 100% in fine working order after this mod – if yours isn’t .. well you broke it – not me! READ THE INSTRUCTIONS FULLY AND CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU BEGIN. MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE APPROPRIATE TOOLS – DON’T CUT CORNERS HERE! ENSURE THAT YOU ARE IN AN APPROPRIATE ENVIRONMENT TO DO THIS WITHOUT BEING DISTURBED OR LOSING ANY PARTS!

ENVIRONMENT: Clean and clear Well illuminated TOOLS: 1 x Precision Screwdriver Set (Philips & Flat) 1 x Penknife or other flat-bladed instrument 1 x Anti-Static Wrist Strap* * so as to not short out the PCB or any of the components, I’d strongly suggest one of these.

Remove the battery cover, the battery and the sim card from your phone. Unscrew the 2 x Philips and the 2 x T6 torx screws you see. Use the pen knife to skim around the edges of the back cover, whilst gently twisting the blade to prise and release the clips.

Once the front cover is off, this is what you’ll see. Lift off the numbered pad.

Next, to remove the keypad plate and black plastic backing, gently lift it up like you’re opening the lid to a chest. You’ll see the PCB connector clearly now, so using a small flat screwdriver, unplug it and lift the assembly free.

WARNING: There are 2 tiny brass-like clips on the black plastic backing plate (circled). DO NOT lose these! In fact, try not to even dislodge them from the plate – bloody nightmare to get back on! To me, they look like earthing points for the keypad, so they’re very important!

This is the assembly removed. You can clearly see a) one of the brass-like clips, b) the PCB connector and c) the camera button. There is NO need to separate the keypad plate from the backing plate as in this image. This is just for illustration purposes only.

Now, let’s take out the LCD screen. First, remove the 2 x T6 torx screws (screws already removed in this image) from the top of the screen. Unplug the screen circuit board from the PCB (circled in yellow).

Then, easing it over the joystick, lift the screen free.

To remove the PCB itself, use a small flat screwdriver and gently work your way around the chassis and prise the PCB free. Now, working from the top of your phone, lift it and pull it out from the base connector. Photo shows the PCB partly lifted clear of the top of the phone.

Before we do this, unplug the camera from the PCB and feed this connector through the hole in the PCB (pictured far left of this image), as you lift it free.

OK, so now the PCB is free from the chassis, we see the camera lens unit and its ribbon. Unplug the ribbon from the rear of the actual camera unit and tilt it out of the way.

The camera unit can now be persuaded out of the chassis. DON’T start bloody playing around with it … yes YOU! I know what you lot are like! Put it safe with everything else … go on!

One important point that I must mention here, is about this small piece (circled). When tilting the chassis to and fro, it fell out on me – heart attack! Well, with the help of this image, I eventually sussed out where it came from, so I’m warning you all now – be careful.

Now on with the camera - you must remove the little sticky camera switch (circled) and the sticky flash LED piece (arrowed) from the chassis. Just gently peel them off. Don’t get your fingers all over the sticky sections as you’ll need them to remain sticky to go back on again!

WARNING: Be extremely careful of this switch as it’s the ‘trigger’ for your camera! Don’t force it in any direction. (When putting on the phone back cover on later, I opened the lens cover first so as to not interfere with the switch on re-assembly. Close the lens cover once all the clips have engaged in the cover).

This is an image of the speaker assembly. It is gently prised and peeled out of the chassis as it has a sticky section around the speaker itself, holding the assembly in place.

The antenna assembly proved a bit of a bugger to get out. What I found easiest was, from the other side to that shown in the image, I used a flat blade screwdriver and gently eased the 2 clips (which form part of the white plastic) out, to release the assembly from the chassis.

The ‘vibrator’ and its green silicone jacket were a piece of cake by comparison and came away without a fight. *Talking of silicone – the buttons are bonded to silicone sheets and you must be careful not to rip these whilst taking them out of the chassis. Patience and gentle persuasion will see them come free.

This is basically what you’ll have at the end of it all. Note the small piece that I nearly lost in the centre of this image! Well done. Stop for a break! Re-assembly is the exact reversal of this disassembly.

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