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Letters in Applied Microbiology ISSN 0266-8254

UNDER THE MICROSCOPE

Bacterial spoilage of wine and approaches to minimize it


E.J. Bartowsky
The Australian Wine Research Institute, Adelaide, SA, Australia

Keywords Abstract
aroma, lactic acid bacteria, off flavour,
spoilage management, taint. Bacteria are part of the natural microbial ecosystem of wine and play an
important role in winemaking by reducing wine acidity and contributing to
Correspondence aroma and flavour. Conversely, they can cause numerous unwelcome wine
Eveline J. Bartowsky, The Australian Wine spoilage problems, which reduce wine quality and value. Lactic acid bacteria,
Research Institute, PO Box 197, Glen
especially Oenococcus oeni, contribute positively to wine sensory characters, but
Osmond, Adelaide, SA 5064, Australia.
E-mail: Eveline.Bartowsky@awri.com.au
other species, such as Lactobacillus sp. and Pediococcus sp can produce undesir-
able volatile compounds. Consequences of bacterial wine spoilage include
2008 ⁄ 1406: received 14 August 2008, revised mousy taint, bitterness, geranium notes, volatile acidity, oily and slimy-texture,
and accepted 11 September 2008 and overt buttery characters. Management of wine spoilage bacteria can be as
simple as manipulating wine acidity or adding sulfur dioxide. However, to con-
doi:10.1111/j.1472-765X.2008.02505.x trol the more recalcitrant bacteria, several other technologies can be explored
including pulsed electric fields, ultrahigh pressure, ultrasound or UV irradia-
tion, and natural products, including bacteriocins and lysozyme.

wine spoilage and explores options for curtailing the


Introduction
growth of unwanted bacteria.
Winemaking has a long history dating back over
7000 years. Although the concept of transforming grape
Wine-associated micro-organisms
must into wine is not difficult to understand, production
of a flavoursome and stable wine that does not spoil dur- Yeast and bacteria found in grape must and wine originate
ing storage requires considerable expertise on the part of from the vineyard, grapes, and winery processing equip-
the winemaker. Vinification practices today are not vastly ment (Fleet 1993). This ‘natural microflora’ includes sev-
different from those of ancient Egyptians and Greeks, eral dozen species of yeast, with Saccharomyces cerevisiae
however, the contemporary winemaker has much greater being predominant. Lactic acid and acetic acid bacteria
control at critical stages from grape harvest to bottling (AAB) are the only families of bacteria found in grape must
when bacteria can proliferate. and wine. These include four genera of lactic acid bacteria
The main role of micro-organisms in winemaking is to (LAB), Lactobacillus, Leuconostoc, Oenococcus and Pediococ-
convert grape sugars to alcohol, reduce wine acidity and cus and two genera of AAB, Acetobacter and Gluconobacter.
introduce interesting and desirable aroma and flavours to
the wine. Although grape must has a relatively complete
Bacterial wine spoilage
nutrient composition, it can support only a limited num-
ber of micro-organisms, and wine, with its limited nutri- Many secondary metabolites produced by bacteria are
ents, is even less inviting. The strongest selection volatile and potentially affect wine sensory qualities; this
pressures against yeast and bacteria in grape must are review will focus on undesirable flavour compounds.
high sugar content and low pH, whereas, in wine, it is Figure 1 summarizes the pathways for bacterial metabo-
high ethanol, acidity, SO2 content and limited nutrients. lism of wine spoilage compounds and Table 1 lists these
One of the aims of winemaking is to minimize potential compounds, their sensory descriptors and aroma thresh-
for microbial spoilage and this review focuses on bacterial old concentrations.

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Journal compilation ª 2008 The Society for Applied Microbiology, Letters in Applied Microbiology 48 (2009) 149–156 149
Bacterial spoilage of wine E.J. Bartowsky

Mousy off-flavour
ACPY ACTPY Mannitol taint

mannitol
acrolein ACTPY
ACPY
Bitterness
Acetyl-CoA Lysine Cell-wall &
mannitol glucan
phenols Ornithine synthesis
acetaldehyde
acrolein
glucose or UDP-glucose
fructose G-1-P glucan
3-hydroxy propionaldehyde Fructose G-6-P
ethyl acetate Ethanol
acetic acid
Solvent Glucose
ethyl acetate
character acetic acid Glycerol pyruvate
Citric acid
Ethanol 2,3 butandione
Sorbic acid
Tartaric acid Malic acid acetoin 2,3 butandione
acetaldehyde (diacetyl)
acetaldehyde
2,3-butanediol
oxalacetic acid oxalacetic acid Buttery character
Vinegar acetic acid
acetic acid sorbyl alcohol
aroma
pyruvic acid
malic acid pyruvic acid lactic acid
3,5-hexadien-2-ol
CO2
ethanol
fumaric acid acetic acid
lactic acid
2-ethoxyhexa-3,5-dienne lactic acid
succinic acid acetic acid acetic acid
Geranium note
Malic acid metabolism
2-ethoxyhexa-3,5-dienne via malate dehydrogenase

succinic acid acetic acid


lactic acid
Acetobacter

Tartaric acid metabolism Lactobacillus

Oenococcus

Pediococcus

Figure 1 Summary of bacterial pathways leading to spoilage aroma and flavour compounds of wine. Pathways are complied from several
sources (Sponholz 1993; Costello and Henschke 2002; Wisselink et al. 2002; Swiegers et al. 2005; Walling et al. 2005a; Bartowsky and Pretorius
2008).

Growth of Lactobacillus, Pediococcus and even some control, particularly during malolactic fermentation, affect
Oenococcus species in wine, usually following malolactic the concentration of diacetyl. The bacterial strain used,
fermentation, gives rise to numerous spoilage scenarios, oxygen exposure, fermentation temperature and duration
as they can form undesirable aroma and flavour com- of malolactic fermentation impact on diacetyl production
pounds. All AAB species are considered spoilage bacteria. (Bartowsky and Henschke 2004b).
Fortunately, the occurrences of most spoilage scenarios Acetic acid, acetaldehyde and ethyl acetate are the main
are uncommon and can be avoided with correct hygiene spoilage compounds produced by wine-associated AAB
management during the vinification and maturation species. Acetic acid and acetaldehyde are formed from the
process. oxidative metabolism of ethanol (Adachi et al. 1978). In
Desirability of a compound in wine is dependent on addition, AAB can form the ethyl ester of acetic acid,
concentration and wine style (Francis and Newton 2005). ethyl acetate, which has a pungent, solvent-like aroma,
For example, the buttery or butterscotch aromas of the reminiscent of nail lacquer remover (Francis and Newton
carbonyl compound, diacetyl (2,3-butanedione) which is 2005). Wine is at high risk of spoilage by AAB during
an intermediate metabolite of citric acid metabolism in prolonged barrel maturation if wine is not topped up and
LAB (Ramos et al. 1995), can add pleasant aromas and monitored regularly, but poor management during bot-
complexity to wine at concentrations below 4 mg l)1. tling and storage of red wine can give rise to spoilage
However, above this, diacetyl in wine may become objec- because of the proliferation of Acetobacter pasteurianus
tionable with overt buttery notes (Martineau et al. 1995). (Bartowsky and Henschke 2004a, 2008). Small increases in
A variety of factors, including that the winemaker can acetic acid can be observed during alcoholic fermentation

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150 Journal compilation ª 2008 The Society for Applied Microbiology, Letters in Applied Microbiology 48 (2009) 149–156
E.J. Bartowsky Bacterial spoilage of wine

Table 1 Wine spoilage compounds as a result of bacterial metabolism during winemaking

Sensory Aroma
Compound descriptor threshold Bacteria (genus)
)1
Acetaldehyde O Bruised apple, 100 mg l Acetobacter,
sherry-like, Gluconobacter
OH nutty

O
Acetic acid Vinegar, sour, 0Æ2 g l)1 Acetobacter,
H pungent Gluconobacter,
LAB*

O
Ethyl acetate Nail polish 7Æ5 mg l)1 Acetobacter,
O remover Gluconobacter,
LAB

O
2,3-Butandione (diacetyl) Buttery, nutty, 0Æ1–2 mg l)1 Oenococcus,
caramel Lactobacillus
O

2-Ethoxy-3,5-hexadiene Crushed 0Æ1 lg l)1 Lactobacillus,


O geranium Pediococcus
leaves

O
2-Acetyl-tetrahydropyridine Caged mouse 4–5 lg l)1 Lactobacillus,
(ACTPY) Oenococcus
N

2-Ethyltetrahydropyridine Caged mouse 2–18 lg l)1 Lactobacillus,


(ETPY) N Oenococcus

O
2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline N Caged mouse 7Æ8 lg l)1 Lactobacillus,
(ACPY) Oenococcus

O
Acrolein Bitterness Lactobacillus,
H Pediococcus

b-D-Glucan Ropy, viscous, Pediococcus


(exopolysaccharide) oily, slimy,
thick texture
OH OH
Mannitol OH Viscous, sweet, Oenococcus
HO
irritating finish
OH OH
*LAB, lactic acid bacteria; includes species from Lactobacillus, Oenococcus and Pediococcus.

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Journal compilation ª 2008 The Society for Applied Microbiology, Letters in Applied Microbiology 48 (2009) 149–156 151
Bacterial spoilage of wine E.J. Bartowsky

because of yeast metabolism, or after the completion of by high pH. The production of b-d-glucan and its poly-
malolactic fermentation, usually from citric acid metabo- merization are well characterized (Walling et al. 2005a)
lism by LAB (Ramos and Santos 1996). and shown to be as a result of the presence of a plasmid
Mousy wines result from the metabolism of ornithine carrying the dps (glucosyltransferase) gene (Walling et al.
and lysine, leading to the formation of extremely potent 2005b). Recently, some O. oeni strains have been isolated
and unpleasant nitrogen-heterocylic compounds [2-acetyl- carrying the dps gene (Walling et al. 2005b).
tetrahydropyridine (ACTPY), 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline (ACPY)
and 2-ethyltetrahydropyridine (ETPY)] (Costello et al.
Removal or inhibition of unsolicited wine bacteria
2001; Costello and Henschke 2002). These compounds
are perceived on the back palate as a persistent aftertaste How best to avoid wine spoilage is not always clear-cut.
reminiscent of caged mice (Tucknott 1977) because of Even appropriate hygiene practices and the chemically
interactions with the mouth environment; an increase in harsh nature of wine cannot be relied on as a deterrent to
pH renders the compounds volatile. Production of the unwanted bacteria and winemaking regulations may fur-
nitrogen-heterocylic compounds appears to be limited to ther limit the options for intervention available to the
the heterofermentative LAB (O. oeni and some species of winemaker. As an initial barrier, the high ethanol concen-
Lactobacillus) (Costello et al. 2001; Costello and Henschke trations (up to 16% v ⁄ v), high wine acidity (pH as low as
2002). Wine associated Dekkera and Brettanomyces yeast 2Æ9) can inhibit development of bacterial populations,
have also been shown to produce these compounds however, in wines with lower ethanol concentrations and
(Grbin and Henschke 2000), however, they do not appear low acidity (above pH 3Æ7), it can be challenging to arrest
to be the major source of this problem. bacterial growth. Storage of wine at temperatures below
Sorbic acid (2,4-hexadienoic acid) can be used as a 15C might assist with minimizing the ability of bacteria
chemical preservative in sweetened wines at bottling to to proliferate in wine, but will also delay wine matura-
prevent yeast fermentation after packaging. However, sev- tion. Unlike the treatment of wort in beer brewing, grape
eral LAB species, including O. oeni strains, are able to must is not pasteurized prior to yeast inoculation. Heat-
metabolize sorbic acid resulting in the formation of 2-eth- ing wine prior to bottling has been explored, including
oxyhexa-3,5-diene, which has an odour reminiscent of flash pasteurization, however, concerns on the impact of
crushed geranium leaves (Pelargonium spp.) (Riesen this on wine sensory characteristics have meant that this
1992). Thus, care is needed when bottling wine preserved technology is not widely used (Ribéreau-Gayon et al.
with sorbic acid to ensure that the bacterial population 2006).
has been eliminated.
Metabolism of several sugars and polyols by bacteria
Treatment of wine with chemical inhibitors or natural
can result in wine spoilage. Bitterness in wine can develop
products
from metabolism of glycerol, mainly by Lactobacillus sp.
The bitter taste is thought to result from the reaction of Traditionally, sulfur dioxide has been used to control
red wine phenolics with acrolein (Fig. 1) (Sponholz unwanted micro-organisms during winemaking, where it
1993). This type of wine spoilage is often referred to as is usually added to bins of machine-harvested grapes and
‘amertume’ (bitter in French). after malolactic fermentation. Sulfur dioxide acts as both
Fructose metabolism by heterofermentative LAB an antimicrobial agent and an antioxidant in wine
including O. oeni can result in the formation of mannitol, (Romano and Suzzi 1993). However, several bacterial spe-
a six-carbon sugar alcohol (Wisselink et al. 2002). Manni- cies are resistant to high concentrations of sulfur dioxide.
tol tainted wine is complex as it is usually also accompa- Physical removal of micro-organisms through filtration of
nied by high acetic acid, d-lactic acid, n-propanol and juice or wine can also be used. However, filtration typi-
2-butanol (Sponholz 1993). Such spoiled wine can also be cally is mainly conducted prior to bottling and hence is
perceived as having a slimy texture with a vinegar-estery not used to remove micro-organisms during winemaking.
aroma and slightly sweet taste. The switch to mannitol An overall trend to reduce the use of sulfur dioxide,
formation via heterolactic and mannitol fermentation mainly for public health concerns, and a move in recent
occurs at the metabolic level, is growth rate related and years to reduce the use of filtration, as some winemakers
maintenance of the redox balance (Richter et al. 2003). feel that filtration might impact unfavourably on wine fla-
A wine with a viscous and thick texture is referred to vour, has seen the search for alternative methodologies
as ‘ropy’; this is because of the presence of excess exo- including chemical inhibitors and physical means to curb
polysaccharides such as b-d-glucan. In this context, the bacterial wine spoilage.
production of exopolysaccharides is almost exclusively There are several chemical inhibitors and natural prod-
because of Pediococcus growth in wine, which is prompted ucts that can be used for the control of bacteria in wine

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152 Journal compilation ª 2008 The Society for Applied Microbiology, Letters in Applied Microbiology 48 (2009) 149–156
E.J. Bartowsky Bacterial spoilage of wine

Table 2 Approaches to limit or halt bacterial growth in wine Gram-negative bacteria also limit its use for controlling
Controlling agent Mechanism of action
AAB species.
Lysozyme can be added at various stages throughout
Traditional grape vinification to inhibit LAB (Gerbaux et al. 1997;
Sulfur dioxide Inhibits the development of bacteria Bartowsky 2003). Different LAB vary in their susceptibil-
Filtration Physical removal of bacteria from wine
ity to lysozyme in wine (Bartowsky 2003), however, uses
Chemical
Dimethyl dicarbonate Reacts irreversibly with the amino groups
of lysozyme include the inhibition of Lactobacillus species
(DMDC) on active sites of enzymes during alcoholic fermentation thus reducing the risk of
Natural products increased volatile acidity, delaying or blocking the onset
Lysozyme Disrupts cell wall synthesis causing cell lysis of malolactic fermentation, controlling LAB populations
Bacteriocins Alters cell wall components causing cell lysis during sluggish or stuck alcoholic fermentation, and to
Up and coming physical technologies inhibit the onset of malolactic fermentation postbottling
Ultrahigh pressure Causes damage to cytoplasmic membrane
(Gerbaux et al. 1999). The aroma of wine is not affected
and inactivates enzymes
High power Sound waves cause thinning of cell
by the addition of lysozyme (Bartowsky et al. 2004). As
ultrasound membranes, localized heating and with all treatments of wine, the addition of lysozyme
production of free radicals must be considered carefully; it is able to bind with tan-
UV irradiation Damages DNA nins and polyphenols in red wines and typically results in
Pulsed electric fields Dielectrical breakdown of cell membranes a slight decrease in wine colour or might result in the for-
mation of a wine haze (Gerbaux et al. 2000; Bartowsky
2003; Bartowsky et al. 2004).
(Table 2). Although these options have great potential to Bacteriocins, such as nisin, pediocin and plantaricin,
reduce or eliminate bacterial populations, they are addi- produced by some LAB, are small polypeptides that are
tives, and as such, legislative approval is required for their inhibitory to other bacterial species. These polypeptides
use in winemaking. act on the cell wall of bacteria to induce cell lysis (Bruno
Dimethyl dicarbonate is a chemical inhibitor of et al. 1992). Species of Lactobacillus and Pediococcus are
micro-organisms (Daudt and Ough 1980) by inactivating more resistant to nisin than O. oeni strains (Mendes Faia
cellular enzymes. It hydrolyses to methanol and carbon and Radler 1990), and pediocin and plantarincin have
dioxide, natural constituents of grape juice and wine that been shown to successfully kill O. oeni cells (Nel et al.
do not affect wine flavour or colour. Although dimethyl 2002). A combination of nisin and sulfur dioxide has
dicarbonate is approved for use in most winemaking been proposed as a means to reduce the use of sulfur
countries, the effectiveness of dimethyl dicarbonate varies dioxide in winemaking (Rojo-Bezares et al. 2007). More
between species and strain. Studies in grape must demon- recently, a bacteriocin-like inhibitory substance has been
strated that bacteria were more resistant than yeast to shown to be affective against wine Lactobacillus species
dimethyl dicarbonate (500–1000, 150–400 mg l)1, respec- (Yurdugül and Bozoglu 2002, 2008). Although the use of
tively) (Delfini et al. 2002). More recent studies in red bacteriocins to control LAB in wine has great potential,
wine suggest that the permitted rate of dimethyl dicar- its use has not yet been approved in winemaking.
bonate addition (200 mg l)1) does not effectively inhibit Oenological products, such as phenolic compounds,
LAB or AAB (Costa et al. 2008) implying that dimethyl have been demonstrated to have antimicrobial activity
dicarbonate might not be a good preservative against against pathogenic bacteria (Papadopoulou et al. 2005;
undesired bacterial contamination of wine. Other dis- Vaquero et al. 2007) and several compound types (hy-
advantages of the use of dimethyl dicarbonate in wine are droxycinnamic and hydroxybenzoic acids) can hinder
its low solubility in water, and, potential toxicity after wine bacterial growth (Vivas et al. 1997; Reguant et al.
ingestion or inhalation during treatment of wine. 2000). Limited investigations have been undertaken in
‘Natural products’ such as lysozyme and bacteriocins to using individual phenolic compounds to control spoilage
inhibit bacterial growth have been successfully utilized in bacteria (Garcia-Ruiz et al. 2008).
various pharmaceutical and food industries for almost
50 years, and lysozyme has recently been approved for
Alternative technologies to eliminate bacteria from wine
use in winemaking (maximum addition rate: 500 mg l)1).
Lysozyme, a small single peptide with muramidase activ- There is an array of emerging technologies that have been
ity, is ineffective against eukaryotic cells; that is it cannot used successfully in several food and beverage industries
be used to control spoilage yeast, such as Dekkera ⁄ Bretta- for eliminating micro-organisms (Cheftel 1995; Smelt
nomyces (McKenzie and White 1991). Structural 1998) and could be considered for removing micro-
differences between the cell wall of Gram-positive and organisms from wine. These include ultrahigh-pressure

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Journal compilation ª 2008 The Society for Applied Microbiology, Letters in Applied Microbiology 48 (2009) 149–156 153
Bacterial spoilage of wine E.J. Bartowsky

processing, ultrasound, ultraviolet irradiation and pulsed eliminate spoilage bacteria from wine during wine stor-
electric fields (Table 2). age prior to bottling.
Ultrahigh-pressure treatment was recognized as a
potential preservation technique almost a century ago
Conclusion and future directions
when it was demonstrated that microbial spoilage of milk
could be delayed following ultrahigh-pressure treatment Bacterial wine spoilage continues to be of concern in
(Hite 1899). The applied pressure causes inactivation of grape vinification. Consumer reactions to the use of
micro-organisms and enzymes while not affecting flavour chemical preservatives in wine will be on-going challenges
molecules and vitamins (Tauscher 1995). Its antimicrobial for the winemaker. Managing wine acidity is one mecha-
effects are primarily as a result of cytoplasmic membrane nism with which bacterial spoilage can be controlled,
damage (Hoover et al. 1989). Ultrahigh-pressure technol- however, addition of acid to grape must and wine is sub-
ogy has been successfully applied in fruit juices (Smelt ject to regulations in numerous countries and may be
1998), desserts and rice cakes (Cheftel 1995), and has limited in some wine types because of impacts on wine
been reviewed as an application in cheese manufacture style. Technologies based on UV irradiation, pressure and
(Stewart et al. 2006). electric fields have been successfully employed in numer-
High-power ultrasound uses frequencies in the range ous beverage industries to sterilize products and recent
20 to 100 kHz and has the ability to cause the formation trials in grape must or wine have been encouraging.
and collapse (cavitation) of high-energy microbubbles Health concerns and changing regulatory requirements
and can be used in food processing to inactivate microbes provide further motivation for the winemaking commu-
(Piyasena et al. 2003). The mechanism of microbial kill- nity to seek alternative ways to limit the proliferation of
ing is mainly because of thinning of cell membranes, wine spoilage bacteria and these emerging technologies
localized heating and production of free radicals (Fellows might provide support in this quest.
2000; Butz and Tauscher 2002). This technique has been
shown to inactivate numerous food-related micro-organ-
Acknowledgements
isms and has recently been proposed as an option for
consideration in the wine industry (Jiranek et al. 2008). This project was supported by Australia’s grapegrowers
Ultraviolet irradiation has been shown to significantly and winemakers through their investment agency, the
reduce LAB populations (including Lactobacillus sp.) in Grape and Wine Research and Development Corporation,
recirculated brines (Gailunas et al. 2008) and killing fungi with matching funds from the Australian Government.
on harvested grapes (Valero et al. 2007). However, it has The author is appreciative for critical comments by Drs
not been extensively investigated for sterilizing wine. Sen- Paul Chambers and Paul Henschke during the prepara-
sory effects of UV exposure on wine will need to be tion of the manuscript.
examined as beer or milk stored in clear glass bottles
exposed to light can develop ‘light struck’ off flavour
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