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by PliskinAJ
At that time he said "You know the price has dropped a lot to build one."
I checked Amazon and saw a 3 axis Arduino CNC with motors, CNC shield and limit switches for ~70 dollars. I
was in hook line and sinker.
To have a CNC machine you need to have a system working I would eventually mount it.
computer. Computer's don't interface well with
machines that don't use USB. Baby steps
I didn't go from I have no idea what I'm doing to build
The Arduino and CNC shield. a laser table in 2 days. This journey started in Feb
The kit I bought off of Amazon had everything short of 2018 and is still going Feb 2019 as I am writing this.
the tool and linear bearings to make a CNC. If you At this point the laser works just haven't enclosed it,
are familiar with Instructables I bet you have seen an hopefully by the end on this instructable you will be
Arduino before, they make a CNC shield that most seeing a complete machine.
people use to make 3d printers using a program
called GRBL. So baby steps, GRBL has to be downloaded to a
computer then you upload the firmware to your
Need to stay organized. Arduino. They do a good job of explaining the
From the start, I wanted to treat the circuity portion process on their website. After I wired up the panel to
like a proper control panel. I mounted the 12v power give 12v to my board I upload the firmware and
supply at the far end, then wired 2 terminal strips, +/- turned on the GRBL program to see if everything
to land equipment then added a series of 120v and works. x/y motors spin when I tell it to go a direction.
12v relays to eventually act as safety switches finally THE FIRST STEP ACHIEVED!
mounting the Arduino at the far end. Once I got this
https://youtu.be/Fvn78C6BeLQ
The previous step I got the motors to spin pieces of these motors have 200 steps per revolution so they
paper doesn't sound all that thrilling but it made my can natively control 1.8 degrees per step. I wanted to
week. gear it down so I had a 3/1 reduction, this would give
me .6 degrees per step and up my torque without
What motors did I get having to use half steps. I will explain half steps later
The kit came with Nema17 stepper motors, I had no when we talk more about the board.
idea what that meant at the time but googled it up.
Steppers precisely control pitch and have high torque
The base is 10 gauge steel, roughly 1/8" thk. It is way square tubes to act as my left and right side.
overkill but from my limited experience with Clamped one square tube to the far side and move
machinery, a heavy base helps keep everything my parts around until I figured I had enough room. As
accurate. I said earlier this turned out to the 4" and 3". Once I
was happy with this I marked my sheet metal and cut
How big to make it? it with a circular saw. A standard circular saw can do
You need to have enough room to have your belts amazing work with a metal cutting blade.
clear the sides of the work surface and allow your
laser to to reach edge to edge without hitting After the base plate was cut I cut the 2 remaining
anything. For my project I found about 4" on either square tubes to frame in my base plate and stich
side gave me enough room to mount my motors and I welded 1 on 12 skip weld. I did this as the weld is
figured 3" on the bottom would give me enough for plenty strong for what I am doing and I didn't want the
the head of the laser. material to warp with excess heat. I figured I could
seal the project with caulking at the end.
To lay this step I placed a 2'x4' piece of wood to
simulate my part then I cut out I cut 2 48" long 1.25"
What do the axises move on? side of the frame of the base. Then tack welded it into
For smaller projects, I have seen rods and that that is place. I repeated the same step for the other Y-axis
what my 3d printer runs on, they work well for short bearing. I wasn't too worried about the two bearings
runs but long distances they tend to move due to not being 100% parallel. I will explain that in a minute.
being supported. I chose a linear bearing, a cheap
one from Amazon, not the multiple hundred dollar X-axis bearing
options you can get for real CNC machines. I made a The X-axis bearing bridge is only hard mounted to the
decision a while ago that I was not going to make this left side Y-axis, the right Y-axis bearing it sat in a U
thing accurate down to 1/128th of an inch. If I get shaped pocket that fits very tightly. This is done for a
1/32" accuracy I would be happy. Making this few reasons, the first is with only being bolted to the
decision drops the cost to around 1k opposed to left Y bearing makes the assembly easier to
several thousand dollars. Keeping precision over a disassemble. The other reason is if the 2 Y-axis
long distance gets exponentially more expensive. bearings are slightly out of parallel I have a slip joint
that will not cause a bind.
Y-axis bearings
I took the same 1.25" square tube and used it as a Won't this cause crooked cuts
mounting rail for the bearing. Layed a line down the Technically yes but it will be so small I have yet to
square tube marked and tapped the holes. To make see anything I can measure. This is because I have 2
the Y-axis square to the base I used 2 small pieces of motors moving the Y-axis on either side of the bridge.
1.25" square drop at a spacer and clamped it to the
Time to mount the laser. I know I could have gone with a cool stepper actuated
I purchased an Endurance 10watt laser. This laser is adjustment I chose a simple manual method, I figure I
designed to be able to retrofit on 3D printers so it has once I set the height I won't be changing it for a while
a simple bolting pattern to the back of the laser, the and a manual set up will be lighter and simpler. For
diode and fans come pre-assembled I just have to the adjustment, I chose a 6" linear bearing with a 1/4"
bring power to both the diode and the fans separately. ACME thread screw to screw 6" long for my up and
The complicated part comes with the fact that using down adjustment. Once the height is set I would just
different lenses you have to adjust the height of the screw down the free nut to lock it in place. Later I
laser to focus it on the product you plan on cutting. decided to weld another nut to the top of ACME
Also the thickness of the product you have to adjust thread so I can use a ratchet to quickly move focus
for this too. the laser.
X-axis control is made with the same 20 to 60 GT2 pulley. Instead of having the bearing mounts to the front and
behind the motor I opted to put both on one side of the motor. This is also where welding the assembly helped. I
was able to weld it to the top of the angle web, something I couldn't do with extruded aluminum.
At this point we have bearings for the x/y-axises, found the best tension would be to have the belt 2-3
have the laser mounted and have the motors teeth too short to easily loop the belt around the
positioned to do the work. Its now time to add tension pulley. Clamp it the belt down then use a spare 5mm
pulleys to make a working belt system. rod to pop the belt over a bearing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1yBpWplYSk
StepsPerMM = (StepsPerRotation/mmPerRotation)/MicrosteppingFraction
Since I geared down opposed to using micro stepping my Microstepping Fraction is 1 so its was steps per
rotation/mm per rotation to get my steps per mm. This will get you very close due to measuring and rounding
errors. To correct this I taped a 1/32" welding rod to the laser, placed a ruler below the rod pointing at the 0mm and
gave a command ton jog the laser 100mm in the X-axis. I would get a slightly different measurement and then I
would use that measurement to correct my StepsPerMM
I did this a few times until I could get out to 300mm and stay accurate as I could see. I chose 300 mm as its the full
12" ruler to a solid number.
Also using the cutting lens I had to get very close to the wood to cut, while it worked it was so close I easily got
debris building up on the lens. I searched and found a G-7 lense that would allow cutting at a farther distance from
the wood ~6cm away. Since then I have had no issues.
https://youtu.be/k3ZkG7j5ips
My wife has been acid etching cutting boards for in a well-ventilated area, since this isn't inclosed right
friends as gifts for a while now and they seem to love now I have my garage door open/cracked with a box
them. Our friends put them out in the center of their fan blowing everything out, I am also sitting upwind
kitchens. At this time my wife has seen me make a so I don't blow the smoke into me.
box that can barely cut circles and squares. I quickly
got her attention by burning our last name on a If you were always leaving the machine in a well-
cutting board. ventilated area where you don't have to worry about
people accidentally looking at the laser or reflections
At this time a few safety notes, don't look at the laser, of the laser, you could be done. Its a fully functional
don't even look at the reflection of the laser. Make laser table.
sure you have proper eye protection. Make sure you
https://youtu.be/zgiYlYhCgVI
1. The stepper controllers do overheat if you don't have a fan on the heatsinks and they loose steps.
2. There is a small zone of not burning, burning an image and a black blob.
3. Images are really slow with my laser due to somewhat slow travel speed. Burn throughs are iffy,
seems like the low-end movement is too high.
Fixes
The biggest issue is getting the reliability up for a continuous 6-hour project. Due to the nature of the test, I would
only get 2-3 attempts a week. One thing that significantly helped reliability was using a program called
Lightscribe, a very user-friendly UI that made the work easier set up. Also while the computer doesn't need to be
exceptionally powerful you want to have a dedicated computer for the project. If you are doing something as
simple as using chrome and you cause a small communication error to the laser due to any issue you might as
well toss out the project. I even go as far as turning off wifi so there are no chances of background updates.
Making an exhaust system. Since this is my first 3d built item it I cut was a bit of a
If you are familiar with making computers its a learning curve, burn 1 (image 1 here) you can see I
common practice to have more air trying to enter the had straight edges, this did not want to go together.
computer than exit so the case is positively Burn 2 (image 2) I used tongue and groove to lock it
pressurized so you don't suck in dirt into sensitive together and it is set up for 6 120mm fans. I should
parts. With this laser I wan the opposite. I know I exchange out the air in the box every 10-20 seconds.
won't be able to 100% seal the system, I want to pull
as much air as possible out. For this I want an If you are a wood worker... I'm sorry.
exhaust manifold in the back of the box to pull the
smoke out. For this I let the laser do the work.
The fans are set up to run off of 12v DC power similar top of the frame this will make more sense later as it
to computer case fans... exactly like computer case will be easier to access once the case is made.
fans. Instead of setting up a system where I strip Installing the fans I rand into a hurdle, computer case
every wire and run it back to a terminal block for ~20 fans are designed to be screwed into some thin sheet
bucks you can get a computer case fan hub. In my metal. The screws that came with the fans didn't have
mind worth it for the simplicity and the capability of enough length to grab the wood through the fan case.
easily adding more fans. I have some rubber inserts I thought would work but
the "case" side of the insert will not work with 3/16"
While wiring this up I added 2 more terminal strips for thk wood. So I just used a dab of caulking in each of
12v DC power. For the terminal strips I did not want the 4 corners. Its generic white caulk, not a
to use a jumper bar because I didn't like the idea of construction adhesive so if a fan dies I can pull the
an exposed hot bar and if for some reason I need to fan off later.
use the strip to act as a junction not tied into a
common +/- I can just unplug a jumper. I chose the
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBnUqlxnIG4&feature=youtu.be
The goal is to have bolt on panels so I can access the door (2) the electrical maintenance door.
components inside of the laser if/when its needed and
add some more rigidity to the project. About midway The walls will be bolted to the frame to allow whole
through the project, I made this section of the frame sides to come off if needed.
to let me know of the envelope I had to deal with. I
will need to add at least 2 doors, (1) the man part
If you are working on a part that requires several passes you develop a carbon layer on top of the cutting surface
that makes it much harder to burn through. So adding air will allow the laser to do more work.
I have seen many people use an aquarium aerator pump. I have this old airbrush pump I was given years ago. I
am using what I have and it puts out an impressive volume. It is tubed to a 1/8" brass tube that is clamped to the
laser mount. I slowly bent the tube in stages in a vice to keep it from kinking.
Completely sealing the case sounds like a good idea I found camper seal foam tape is 1.25" meant to be
but I need air to leak in so I can have air leave for my 1.25" frame. The doors will get the window
exhausting the smoke from the laser. Leaving small seal as its designed to move more than the camper
slits along the bottom of the case will allow air to be seal.
sucked in along with 2 120 mm fans blowing air in. 1
over the electricals and 2 in the front of the case to
set the flow of air.
As much as I hate to admit I did. The machine was on Its a sad day for DIY but it was a very fun time.
its way to be a monster 4'x5' machine and we didn't People I know asked why are you building a laser
have room for it. After talking to the wife we decided table when you can just buy. I told them it was for the
its best to stop the project now and disassemble the fun of it and to see if I can. When I cut it apart they
parts so we can use them elsewhere. were shocked I would do it. I know know I can make
a laser table, made a few things with it and a better
We bought into the Snap Maker kickstarter. It will be option showed up. I am going to be able to much
the laser we want and I can retrofit the larger laser to more with the new machine and it will be a much
it. They are also planing on making 2m beams for it better tool than the one I was making. Mine was
so we can actually make a larger machine. It will do going to be very analog while this one will have some
3d printing, laser, and router table. With expansions huge software advantages.
for rotary, 1 hp router and the list goes on. The wife
and I are both happy about it. Anyway if you plan on making your own laser it is
totally doable. I had almost no knowledge of how to
I have since cut apart the laser table, stored away all do any of this when I started and even after throwing
the electrical parts, use some on some car projects in the towel I thoroughly enjoyed the project and its
and the laser is stored in a safe location. The table it not going to stop me from making relatively absurd
self was cut apart and made into a better welding cart tools in the future.
the 1/8" thick base plate and frame was kept as a
4'x5' table top that I put on saw horses if I need
additional work space.